year 21 - number 117 - april 2017 - gamberorosso.it
WINE
T R AV E L
FOOD
Bruno Giacosa The silent maestro will always be heard ABU DHABI Nothing that has been here will remain. Only cuisine is measured with a rooted Emirate tradition and an insatiable curiosity towards other gastronomic cultures
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PROWEIN 2018 REPORT ProWein it's a kind of amusement park of wine with almost 7 thousand exhibitors and wines hailing from over 40 countries in the world. Here are 10 wines - Italian and non - that hit the nail in the head.
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WINE & MILLENNIALS They are between 38 and 18 years old, they are curious, they seek advice online, they're attentive in regard to sustainability and they love sharing with the digital community.
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year 21 - number 117 - april 2017 - gamberorosso.it
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Bruno Giacosa The silent maestro will always be heard Abu DhAbi Nothing that has been here will remain. Only cuisine is measured with a rooted Emirate tradition and an insatiable curiosity towards other gastronomic cultures
ProWein 2018 rePort ProWein it's a kind of amusement park of wine with almost 7 thousand exhibitors and wines hailing from over 40 countries in the world. Here are 10 wines - Italian and non - that hit the nail in the head.
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The Scrooges if wine Food News Wine News Wine of the month ProWein 2018: results of the business trade event Top Italian Restaurants in Sao Paulo The Grand Maestro di Langa: homage to Bruno Giacosa Wine and younger generations, a survey of Italian millennials Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Doha. Dining amid desert, tradition and skyscrapers Recipes. Fulvietto Pierangelini
Wine & MillenniAls They are between 38 and 18 years old, they are curious, they seek advice online, they're attentive in regard to sustainability and they love sharing with the digital community.
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The Scrooges of wine Be it Franciacorta or Prosecco, and all the way to the red labels – the famous Barolo and Barbaresco made at Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa winery (now called Azienda Agricola Falletto), called that way because of the colour of the reserve labels made by the Neive producer – the success of Italy’s best wines is undisputed. At the centre of international business and wine lover’s attention are not only Italian wine highlights. As can be seen by observing the results of wine auctions, even the most prominent French labels (and the best known ones coming from Germany, Austria, Spain, California and Australia) aren’t register any decline whatsoever. On the contrary, in the last five years there’s been a significant price increase for the most prestigious bottles. The interest in the most noble and rare labels by an increasingly large slice of the most affluent groups in the world, has made prices soar so much that some bottles have become completely inaccessible. It doesn’t matter if this generalized and apparently unstoppable trend is owed to the “Scrooges” of wine, or from passion, or culture or from the desire to expand and diversify investments. The end result is always the same: spasmodic search and wild purchase of precious wine rarities, even in countries that until a few years ago were considered unimportant for the consumption of wine. Think of Asia, for example, a country that has brought cult labels to luxury level. The continued price growth and the value of certain bottles has also led to a proportionate increase in the value of the vineyards. In certain areas of production, land value prevents young winemakers from creating new wineries, and limits existing companies from buying new vineyards for production. The prices of the last sale of historic wineries – in France over 200 million euro were paid for just under 8 hectares of vineyards, and in Italy over 100 million euro for about 25 hectares – have confirmed how this world no longer belongs to those who work the land make a living from it. Compared to the past, when entrepreneurs often invested in the world of wine (even re-launching viticulture in historic areas such as Chianti Classico or Franciacorta), now we are witnessing the wine world opening to luxury brand companies. These new investors often don’t have in mind the direct profitability of the investment, but rather the desire to quickly enter new sectors like absolute protagonists. The hope of those who drink and love wine is that these new producers are able to maintain the territorial characteristics intact without homologating the taste of the great wines of the world, so sought after precisely for their organoleptic characteristics. – Gianni Fabrizio
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NEWS
COCO PAZZO RE-OPENS IN NEW YORK, PINO LUONGO’S TUSCAN CUISINE IS MAKING A COMEBACK
Italian cuisine lovers know the place well: Coco Pazzo, opened in 1988 and closed in 2008 for bankruptcy, for years one of the landmarks of Italian dining in the United States. Italian chef now American by adoption Pino Luongo, born in ‘52, was one of the most shining examples of entrepreneurship in the restaurant business abroad. Il Cantinori, Le Madri, Centolire, Coco Pazzo, Coco Pazzo Cafè, Coco Crazy Theater, Tuscan Square, Taste of the Sea, Bite: the list of Luongo-branded venues, distributed between New York and
Chicago, is long, but the common characteristic of all the restaurants is a purely Tuscan core. But the road to success however - as we know - is also dotted with obstacles. After the golden period between the nineties and early 2000s, because of the economic crisis of that time, in 2007 Luongo finds himself having to deal with negative numbers and filing for bankruptcy became a necessity. A year later, the hardest decision: closing Coco Pazzo, one of his most representative restaurants. But Pino’s stubbornness prevailed: Coco Pazzo has now re-opened its doors in a new location on Prince Street in SoHo, with a new, fresher and more modern menu. It is, in fact, a dynamic format, which changes from morning to evening: at lunch it’s all about Coco Pazzo Kitchen, purely based on cold and fast dishes, all at reasonable prices ranging from 8 to 15 dollars. In the evening the place turns into Coco Pazzo Trattoria, with soups, seafood appetizers, unique dishes and main courses designed to be shared among all the diners, such as roast pork, braised meat and more.
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FOOD MANAGERS OF THE FUTURE. A COURSE HOSTED IN SWITZERLAND IN COLLABORATION WITH GAMBERO ROSSO
The strategic importance of the food & wine sector in the planning of territorial development is now widely established: food and wine culture tout court are powerful tourist attractors. But knowing how to manage and market these is just as important since it’s precisely the combination of local culinary traditions and food products that contributes most successfully to the economic (social and cultural) growth of a community. Hence the need to train specialized managerial figures able to recognize the specific production and quality processes of Food & Wine, but also, and above all, to confront the global market through the development of specific managerial and marketing skills. In the Swiss Canton of Ticino, at the University of Applied Sciences of Southern Switzerland (Supsi), all this translates to the course in Food & Wine Business Management organized by the Department of Business, Health and Social Economics in collaboration with Gambero Rosso. The Certificate of Advanced Studies offers general managerial and management training, combined with the development of specific skills in the supply chain, prepares specialized managers able to face the challenges of the food and wine sector in an international and multicultural context. The lessons – a total of 160 hours in the classroom, taught in Italian language – will be held at the Supsi headquarters in Manno, from May 2018; enrolment registrations must be received by 16 April (www.supsi.ch/fc further information and details can be found at the Supsi contacts).
NEWS
LES PETITES CANTINES FROM LYON SEIZE FRANCE: THE NEIGHBOURHOOD CANTINAS IN THE FIGHT AGAINST BIG CITY ISOLATION The first “cantina” opened in the fall of 2016 in Lyon, in the ninth arrondissement. This is a popular district where participation in a shared project is the solution to isolation––big city daily life hardly ever acknowledges our next-door neighbour. The non-profit project Les Petites Cantines, on the other hand, moves in the opposite direction, proposing the sharing of a meal––prepared and eaten together––as an opportunity to create a bond of proximity. After about 8 months, the first “little cantina” in the Vaise district registered over 3,000 participants, 500 of whom were actively involved in preparing meals in the large open-plan kitchen. The venue was open for lunch and dinner, every day of the week. Two years later, spaces in the city are about to double: in April, another small cantina will open in the Paul Santy neighbourhood. By 2018 the initiative will also land in the Gerland district in Lyon, and in Lille. For the Dijon debut organisers are still looking for a space that can accommodate at least 50 people, plus supply cooking equipment. There are many requests coming from all over France to export the idea, which is the result of the partnership between Diane Dupre La Tour and Etienne Thouvenot. The scalability of the project, which this year will have a budget of 500 thousand euros, is made possible by the interest of important financial backers, who are starting to understand the potential of the system, as well as donations from associations operating in the social sector. The model seems to work, and by the year 2020 the petites cantinas could multiply throughout France, with the concrete intention to also land in Nantes and Paris.
BECK AT BROWN’S, HEINZ BECK’S RESTAURANT AT BROWN’S HOTEL LONDON, WILL DEBUT IN APRIL
The English press confirmed the news, even if regarding the imminent debut of Heinz Beck in London––repeatedly confirmed by the chef himself–– no one had any doubts. Located within the Brown’s Hotel (whose history began in 1837, and now part of the Rocco Forte Hotels group), the casual dining venue of the German chef, Executive in charge of La Pergola at the Hilton Cavalieri di Roma, will open on April 16th. As expected, Beck will not bring the La Pergola cuisine to the city, rather something more similar to the Attimi format, already tested at Fiumicino airport, and with an imminent Milanese opening, too. The executive chef will be Heros De Agostinis, a very talented pu-
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pil of Beck’s, and who’s already supervised several openings in the world as well as taken care of the development of new dishes in the Beck menu in Rome. Featured on the Beck at Brown’s menu will offer a selection of dishes designed for Londoners wishing to discover modern Italian cuisine at affordable prices: main courses at £21 and menu selections focused on ingredient quality and seasonality. Beck is enthusiastic about the new adventure, but what he most proud of, according to first official statements, is the possibility of bringing the legacy of the Italian gastronomic tradition to London, in a prestigious context such as the one made available at the Brown’s Hotel.
NEWS
EXPORT. WORLD TRADE AT 31 BILLION. ASIA ON THE RISE. NEW RECORD VALUE FOR ITALY (5.9 BILLION) WHICH STILL SEEMS OFF BALANCE ON THE EU MARKET New record in world wine trade. The €31 billion figure recorded in 2017 is certainly flattering for the industry, despite thetre being weaknesses and aspects still to be considered. In fact, ISTAT’s definitive figure on foreign trade says that Italy, as widely expected and announced for months, closed 2017 at 5.9 billion euro, with a +6.2%. This allows it to once again exceed its record at the value of the previous year. The Italian progression is not, however, among the best, considering that in the ranking of yields, as noted by an elaboration of Vinitaly-Nomisma Wine Monitor, Australia is first with +15.1% (for a 1.8 billions of euro counterbalance), followed by France (+9.9% at 9.1 billion euros), Spain (+6.5% at 2.8 billion
wines grew less (+4.4% at € 4.2 billion). Among consuming countries, Asia is very well represented as well as the United States, reconfirmed as the main world market. Dominated by value is France which, thanks to a +14.3% (at 1.6 billion euro), has ex-
euros), Chile (+6.3% at 1.8 billion) and then Italy (+6.2% at 5.9 billion euro). In particular, our sector shows a +13.6% thanks to sparkling wines (1.4 billion euros), which once again represented the driving force of world demand in 2017, the year in which still
ceeded Italy (+3.6% at 1.4 billion euro). As for the Asian market, France is still growing: 27% of the global transalpine sales (2.45 billion euro) concern this continent, whereas Italy realizes only 7% of the export, for a consideration of 419 million euro.
CHAMPAGNE. 7.3 MILLION BOTTLES SOLD IN ITALY (+11.1%). GLOBAL RECORD REVENUES. ASIA AND AUSTRALIA VERY WELL, BUT THE BREXIT EFFECT IS FELT ON THE UK MARKET (-5.7%) After the decline in 2016, Spanish wine and wine must exports continue to grow. The increase recorded in 2017 is of 8.9 percentage points, which allows the Iberian sector to exceed 3 billion euros for the first time, reaching 3.18 billion. Thanks to good sales performance in China (+ 25.6%), Canada (+ 22.8%), Portugal, Italy (+ 34%), Sweden and Lithuania (+ 36.4%). Growing are both bottled and bulk wines. In terms of quantities, according to data released by the Oemv (Spanish Wine Market Observatory), Spain sold 28.5 million hectolitres abroad, with a growth of 3.2%. What’s interesting is the leap forward of Spain’s main sparkling wine, Cava, which today accounts
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for 81% of the value of sparkling wine exports. But the segment of packaged goods is also highlighted, increasing the value of sales by 88 million euros, reaching 1.71 billion euros. Overall, Spanish wine is in an improvement phase in both international image and level of average prices are growing. The Oemv emphasizes the diversification of the markets, in which the wineries have been working for some time. And the forecast balance for 2018, according to Oemv estimates, says that if the volumes exported will dip at the end of the year, there will be a significant appreciation of the average value and, therefore, a total increase in turnover.
NEWS
WINE OF THE MONTH NEGRAMARO ‘16 - TENUTA VIGLIONE s.da prov. le 140 km 4,100 - Santeramo in Colle (BA) bottles 3000 ex-cellar price: 8,50 euros + taxes With his Tenuta Viglione, Giovanni Zullo has, in just a few years, managed to become a leading figure in Apulia’s vine-growing/winemaking scene. His vineyards are situated in Murgia Barese at about 450 meters above sea level, at the highest point in the Gioia del Colle DOC zone. The soil here is characterized by thin layers of mixed ‘red earth’, calcareous and silica rock, and gives rise to wines defined by their typicity, as well as freshness. The 2016 Negroamaro is well-crafted, with tones of ripe, dark fruit that are wellsupported by astringent mouthfeel.
CONSUMPTION. ROSÉ CONFIRMED AS “KEY TREND” OF 2018 They call them Millennial Pink but they don’t only belong to the female population, or to younger age groups. These are consumers of the present, all across the main marketing sectors, from food to fashion. All of these share a color: pink. This is a river crossed by a constant current, which the beverage and alcohol industry is intercepting and, in some ways, helping to create globally. Rosé, as noted by the English analysts of Iwsr, is confirming it as a key trend of 2018. It will be throughout the year, supported by ad hoc campaigns on social networks and by users who are sensitive to this particular colour. In the wine world, for example, Iwsr-Vinespo forecasts say that, after the strong growth between 2011 and 2016 (126 million liters), the rosé wine market will increase by an additional 135 million liters between 2016 and 2021, exceeding the share of 2.2 billion total liters sold. United States, France, South Africa, Denmark and Australia are the markets with the most interesting numbers. The pink craze is not on wine alone. Trends say that rosé cider is one of the most popular drinks of the moment, thanks to the launch of some products by important players in the sector such as Crispin and Angry Orchard, which are market leaders. Overall, the cider industry estimates a sales growth between 2016 and 2021 of over one hundred million litres. Even rosé gin is fully part of this trend, with the industry that is focusing on shades of color and more floral and fruity aromas. Even a giant like Pernod-Ricard is working to intercept the pink banwagon, regardless of the male/ female dichotomy.
AUSTRALIA. #SAVEAUSSIEPROSECCO The Australian producers campaign continues in defense of Aussie Prosecco. Spearheading the pressure group are the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia and the Wines of King Valley association, which recently organized an event to invest Canberra federal parliamentarians in the game being played. The reason behind the event is highlighting the economic contribution and potential of Prosecco for the development of the Australian wine industry and, moreover, the need to guarantee the right of producers to use the name Prosecco. For this reason, concerns have been expressed about the fact that in the context of the free trade agreement between Australia and the EU, the exclusivity of Prosecco could be assigned to Italy. According to Australian & NewZeland-Grapegrower & Winemaker magazine, Australian producers maintain that for the Aussie Prosecco industry, the prospect “would be devastating, wiping out millions of dollars of marketing and investment already spent on brand building.” In particular, Michael Del Zotto––representing the family from Valdobbiadene, who first cultivated (1999) and marketed Prosecco in Australia––stated that “it is a cynical move by Italians to prevent other countries from participating in the enormous opportunities for growth in the national and international Prosecco markets.” Ross Brown, executive director of Brown Brothers, the largest Australian producer of this grape, highlighted that “Prosecco is a globally recognized grape variety and that this would be tantamount to losing the right to use the term Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc”. Sandy Clark, Wfa president, stressed that Australian and international consumers are increasingly appreciating sparkling wine. Not surprisingly, according to the recently presente Vinitaly Nomisma projections, Italy is riding the wave of sparkling consumption in the world (of which our Prosecco is the spearhead) with +240% in 10 years, against the average +50% worldwide. To meet this growing demand, the production of Prosecco grapes in Australia has tripled since 2015. Growth projections estimate that the value of Australian Prosecco sales could reach 200 million dollars within a few years. This is why the battle is destined to continue, as Toni Battaglene, CEO of Wfa points out: “We have rejected an EU complaint on this same problem in 2013 and the industry will fight hard to defend its right to use the term Prosecco as a variety again.”
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PROWEIN 2018: RESULTS OF THE BUSINESS TRADE EVENT The DĂźsseldorf harvest is confirmed as an impeccable money machine. According to the director there's room for improvement in the digital aspect. Waiting list for Italian producers, while the Gambero Rosso triples its presence.
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
ABRUZZO WEIN FEST Happy birthday Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC. Fifty years ago, in 1968, the most representative wine of Abruzzo obtained the Denomination of Controlled Origin, the DOC. Gambero Rosso and the Consortium Vini d’Abruzzo celebrated this important achievement at the Ständehaus, with 50 of the most representative wine brands of Abruzzo: a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Wine Bar, with 80+ labels to taste, gastronomic specialties and music. Quite an after fair party!
F
rom 30 to 1700 is the final score of Italian wine businesses at ProWein compared to the first edition held in 1994. A growth that has led Italy to be by far the most present nation in the Düsseldorf fair, which ended on Tuesday. The event's tried and tested formula: three festival days, exquisitely international character and the usual impeccable logistics organization. The final released numbers speak of 6,870 exhibitors and 60 thousand visitors, up from 58,000 compared to 2017. Among this year's new features, the Craft Drinks section that, under the Same but Different umbrella, rounded up craft beers, ciders and the whole world of spirits, plus a new shuttle service to facilitate internal transportation among festival areas. And even stricter security checks at the entrance accentuating the hallmark of this year's trade fair: business to business character, without concessions to the consumers or enthusiasts. As usual, the opening Tre Bicchieri by Gambero Rosso event took place on Saturday under a copious snowfall, one day before the kick-off, with 150 awardwinning wineries and an audience hailing from over 50 countries, confirming this as the most global event among those organized around the world. Over 1200 visitors attended the tasting, which is a must among operators and producers, who also come to browse and talk with their Italian colleagues from the most distant wine districts. Twelve hours later the 25th edition of ProWein started. We did a series of interviews to sum it up. “We worked very well. This is a trade fair that requires even more planning compared to others; and exhibi-
THE DIRECTOR OF PROWEIN'S POINT OF VIEW Marius Berlemann is global head wine & spirits and director of ProWein. We met him in Germany for a quote on the event. This edition, too, ended with a significant increase in visitors. How much promotion work is behind the trade fair? The investment in this direction began many years ago and the results are now visible. This year we promoted more than usual, thanks to our representatives located in 65 countries around the world. But I think the best promotion is the one performed by the exhibitors, when they tell their colleagues that ProWein is the best trade fair to be at. And those who come - we're sure - will hardly leave. Can the same be said about ProWein Asia and ProWein China? How are they doing? We started five years ago in China, but we had the wrong approach. Everyone was talking about the growth in consumption in that market, so we were convinced it would be as easy as in Germany. But it was not true. The visitors were there, but they were not knowledgeable in wine. China is a difficult market: you think you know something, but then you realize that
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you know very little. However, I can say that from 2016 things are changing and we have managed to bring buyers from all over Asia: Singapore, Hong Kong, South Asia and Korea. The best strategy is thinking long-term. Let's go back to Düsseldorf. How did the trade fair do in terms of innovation? What can still be improved? We have to improve everything that helps business. ProWein has more than 6 thousand exhibitors, our peculiarity is that they all show up at 9 and stay until closing time. Logistics is everything, it's the key to our success. Buses, taxi lines, airport and train station connections included. We upped the gastronomic offer, with an ad hoc stand, since we realized that waiting times were too long compared to previous years. Now we are investing in the digital aspect, and on a matching platform similar to Tinder. Something that recognizes what you are looking for and makes you find it. First, however, Wi-Fi connection should be improved, a weakness in previous years... Wi-Fi is essential improve business. For this, we have invested millions of euros, but we should have done it sooner. We truly must improve on this front. Internet is work, there is no excuse. The overall sensation in regard to the past is the visitors-to-exhibitors ratio is not as good as five years ago.
GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR
TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS Despite the massive presence of Italians, the quality of our cuisine on German territory is not exactly exciting. This is confirmed by the dishes tasted by the Top Italian Restaurants guide. In Düsseldorf there are 7,000 Italians, almost 700 restaurants that cater to the Italian tradition. We focused on five restaurants in the city of German fashion. During the event Tre Bicchieri, Gianluca Casini (photo), Tuscan chef of L'Arte in Cucina was awarded Una Forchetta recognition, while in the Gamberi section, Osteria Saitta stands out: a city stalwart since 1990, evaluated with Due Gamberi.
Is there risk of increasing the base too much as the number of exhibitors remains stable? Will there be growth in terms of space? It's possible: we have 9 more halls available, but at the moment it is not a priority. We want to respect the visitor: not a matter of numbers, but of quality. Growth must also be sustainable and, to do business, we have always favoured the same platforms for everyone: it is up to each winery to find ways to attract customers. in regard to attractiveness.
©photo: Messe Düsseldorf/ctillmann
How do you explain the strong appeal of ProWein on Italian wineries? We have Vinitaly: why do they come here? Italy is the most present country at the trade fair, and there's also have a long waiting list. Probably because we have organized a purely business platform, with important returns. When you come to ProWein, you know that everything is organized, everything is in order and you can, therefore, focus on the business without other distractions. This is our strength. We have always said that we are a neutral ground, but the show is not just German: there are more Italians than Germans.
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STORIES
BARILLA Cooking show from Academia Barilla’s chef Marcello Zaccaria during the Tre Bicchieri tasting event in Dussel-
tors can expect to wait at their stand that miracles fall from the sky”, commented Alessio Planeta at the ISWA stand, a strategic alliance of 8 historical companies. In fact, the feeling is that those who showcased in a compact way, as a group with an identifiable common goal, collected much more. In the universe of ProWein a strong theme is needed in order to emerge. See the excellent results of Nebbiolo from the Alps niche, in Valtellina, or WineChanges, the group of 12 young Riesling of Palatinate producers who work on a shared philosophy based on sustainability and a well-defined style. "American operators have been less compared to past editions. Sunday was very
quiet, and on the whole, we brought home good results”, commented Lorenzo Marotti Campi. "This was my fourth ProWein and I found consistency, no visitors except the deeply knowledgeable connoisseurs, showing up with printed out wine lists; in addition, the quality of the importers is always high, especially from northern Europe and some from eastern European countries", analyses the oenologist Vincenzo Mercurio, who was present with his wines in the Organic World section. Moving to the German pavilion we chatted with Nicola Libelli, winemaker of the Burklin Wolf winery of the Palatinate, who has been working in biodynamic regimen since 2005. "For us it was a good ProWein, especially on Monday. Everything ran smoothly, from the internal organization of the pavilions to transportation, and we have reached a level that is difficult to implement in the future". Surely what has grown in a clear way compared to the past is the ProWein goes city section, that is the events that take place after the trade fair in the city. They have grown in number - 110 this year - but also in quality: attention to large formats, attention to detail, gastronomic offer (even if on this turf the comparison with Verona is ruthless). And in the meantime, the date of the next edition has been set: March 17-19, 2019.
THE BEST PIZZERIA The Contadi Castaldi award for the best pizzeria in town, bestowed by Mirco Caretti of the Moretti family, went to 485Grad. The weak point of many pizzerias in Italy is the wine list. Well, the wine list offered and created by owner and sommelier Sebastian Georgi is probably one of the most beautiful and passionate selections we've found at a pizzeria in Europe. The pizza style is Neapolitan, with all the musts of the genre: long leavening time, high hydration, soft dough, proper baking and quality ingredients, which range from extra-virgin olive oil, to buffalo mozzarella and an intense aroma of fresh basil.
THE ITALIAN AMBASSADOR IN DÜSSELDORF The Surgiva Taste & Design Award, presented by Matteo Lunelli, went to Giuseppe Saitta for his local Piazza Saitta in Barbarossaplatz. Giuseppe arrived in 1968, opening a deli first, and then with his 3 restaurants, he has approached and trained Germans to the perfumes of our recipes and our wines. Piazza Saitta offers a beautiful wooden counter, walls lined with refined Italian wines and a warm and genuine atmosphere. With its tried and tested format, the restaurant has been open for 20 years, boasting a wine bar and restaurant with a classic, solid kitchen, and professional service. Next door is the family delicatessen for purchasing Italian products.
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GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR
PROWEIN 2018 REPORT: THE BEST TASTED The Düsseldorf trade fair is one of the most anticipated events for those working in the world of wine. It's a kind of amusement park of wine with almost 7 thousand exhibitors and wines hailing from over 40 countries in the world. Like a kid in a candy store: that's the average condition tasters are in at the ProWein trade fair in Düsseldorf, with its 6,780 exhibitors and wines from over 40 countries. The platform is tried and tested, it is easy to get there, even easier to leave. And a total of 17 international pavilions to visit. There are many tastings, and equally many labels at the opening: here are 10 wines - Italian and non - that hit the nail in the head. by Lorenzo Ruggeri
©photo: Messe Düsseldorf/ctillmann
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STORIES
Lezèr 2017 - Foradori Order magnum, delicious, super drinkable. These are the notes for this first proposal by Elisabetta Foradori. A rosé playing as a Teroldego of substance – a Teroldego of substance playing the rosé card. Vinous, reminiscent of freshly cut pomegranate, watermelon, soil and coffee. A fresh and tangy mouth, which extends on salty notes and a typical and incisive final note of toasted almonds. The finish is fruity, austere, nuanced and very long.
Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Baldovino 2017 - Tenuta i Fauri Oh, the fruitiness. A plump and juicy perfectly ripe and fresh cherry. The feeling is that 2017 is a truly great year for Cerasuolo, completely different compared to the 2016 tasted 12 months ago. Enveloping and sinuous, with a floral note that's well focused, with a pure pleasure on the palate. Skipping the little-big wine categorization, this bottle sells at an exceptionally attractive price. The last item in our notes? Pizza! It must be the combination.
Bombino bianco 2017 - Masseria Faraona A high-altitude Pugliese white? Is this an experiment or a change of vision? Certainly, a well-centered wine. The winery is in the Murgia Barese, the vineyards as high as 500-meter altitude. Minty profile, pure and fragrant, strong acidity and integrated into a slender body, still lacking a completeness on an aromatic level but it is tasty and with a fresh finish. Sold at about 10 euros in the wine shop, a price that you'll certainly not regret. ©photo: Messe Düsseldorf/ctillmann
Rìas Baixas Albarino Xiòn 2016 - Attis Bodegas Y Vinedos We are between Santiago de Compostela and Vigo, located very close to the ocean and this is apparent in the glass. This Albarino is irreverent in its iodized and floral accents, with a pungent herbaceous note reminiscent of sautéed greens: in short, it prepares the stomach for food. With a crisp and taut mouth, and a finish in souplesse. 10 euros in the cellar. Exceptional selection Embaixador 2013, an Albarino even more profound in minerality that plays a delicately tannic repertoire and a juicier fruit: like hitting the catch of the day jackpot at Mojo Alcantara.
Forster Pechstein 2016 - Margarethenhof
©photo: Messe Düsseldorf/ctillmann
One of the most beautiful surprises of this ProWein is the group of youngsters from Winechanges, a spontaneous association of producers from the Palatinate who work together according to sustainability criteria: they have fun and make great Riesling (but not just that), you can read more about them in our monthly issue. Meanwhile, we offer you one of the most precious cru in the region. It has an elegant and suffused minerality/smoky touch; the mouth is compact and flexible; the finish is bright. The cost is 13 euros for a wine that is worth much more. It is not yet imported into Italy.
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GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR
Riesling GG Kastanienbusch 2016 - Okonomierat Rebholz Among the chestnut trees of the Palatinate there is a special cru which renders a phenomenal wine, enchanting all those who taste it. Sumptuous in its minerality, with notes of oyster and sea urchin, it proceeds without muscles and stretches out with an unusual elegance: sapid, chiselled and very deep texture. With its rocky character it teases the mouth and leads to an infinite finish. In twenty years it will still be a young lad. The entire line proposed by Rebholz is exceptional, these are wines of extraordinary character. Imported in Italy by Pretzhof who always has great Riesling intuition.
Malvasia 2013 - Podversic If you love tea, this is your wine. If you love macerated wines, this is your wine. It's extraordinarily difficult to find a superior wine in this category. Every year in our blind tastings, the wines of Damijan Podversic win hands down. This Malvasia '13, retested during the Tre Bicchieri event, enchants with notes of yellow flowers, bitter oranges, and memories of apricots. The sweetness is balanced by a delicately bitter mouth, in a disarming balance of naturalness and progression. Together with the Villero 2013 of Brovia, we're at the top among the retested.
©photo: Messe Düsseldorf/ctillmann
Buttafuoco Vigna Sacca del Prete 2012 - Fiamberti The idea of power connected with this historic red of Oltrepò Pavese, a blend of croatina and barbera, often flows into wines that are a bit anachronistic for concentration and tannic extraction. But here we have a complete and deep red. It combines intensity and fruity richness with a savoury, mature and dynamic flavour, with a well-balanced finish in its spicy overtones. It paired well with Sunday's copious snowfall in Düsseldorf.
Champagne Ambonnay 2011 - Marguet We actually can recall only very few of these Champagne millesimal. Big parcels, lots of work in the vineyard, zero doses, zero sulphites: Benoit Marguet does not lack courage. This 2011 shows off a very solid maturity, boasting a red juicy berry, notes of undergrowth and black tea for a glorious finish. The empty glass sings. Monumental Les Crayeres 2012 which has an aromatic definition and precision in HD. The Shaman Rosé 2014, open
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2010 Podere Castorani
©photo: Messe Düsseldorf/ctillmann
The Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC celebrates its 50th anniversary and is the protagonist of one of the many after parties held after the trade fair. This selection is spot on. The nose is dark with memories of soil and spices, the mouth is a true portent. It has a truly inspiring background energy, doses richness and acid development to perfection. The change of pace is overwhelming, the finish is deep, tasty, fresh. It will also be ready for the 70th anniversary of the denomination.
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CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REGULATION N. 1308/2013
Amarone della Valpolicella Great family prestige from 5 generations
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GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR
Italy will be increasingly present in Dubai, says Yogi
How and why Dubai? I arrived in Dubai in March of 1990. Back then Dubai was really very small, couldn't even call it a city. There were obviously many opportunities, because everything still had to be implemented. I came from India in search of my Fortune. I was 29, my career in India was not going as I wanted, it was the perfect time to break away from the past. I worked really hard. Conditions were perfect, everything was about to happen, there were truly many opportunities in those years, when the world opened up to the Middle East (and vice versa). Being successful, provided you worked hard, was more than an option. What impressed you the most about Italy? Four years later, in 1994, I took my first trip to Italy with my family. I was struck by the people's kindness and openness, I found something that made me feel at home, like in India. And I'm not only saying the culture of hospitality, even in food I found similarities with my homeland: spices, garlic, not to mention the love that every Indian has for pizza and pasta. In addition to this, the Mediterranean climate, warm and dry, not to mention the many things to see, to know, to discover. Fashion and design, for example. I immediately perceived Italy as the country where every product possessed high-level inclination. Something obviously also appropriate for wine. So many famous wines and territories, many things to discover... even if personally, the most representative wine remains Sassicaia. Equally important are
Ornellaia and Tignanello, as well as denominations like Brunello di Montalcino but the elegance, the velvety tannin, the imposing finale of Sassicaia make me prefer it to any other wine. This may also be due to my passion for Tuscany, especially for Florence. The city is a perfect combination of all that is beautiful. This is why my son decided to get married in Florence. A romantic, welcoming, beautiful city that made us feel at home (we were 600 guests!). In your opinion, what is so special about wine? My passion for wine – more than the pleasure of drinking it – is linked to the pleasure of understanding it, knowing more about it. And the perfumes of wine intrigue me a lot. I am literally enchanted by the aromas of wine. My personal passion for wine, which led me to become a collector, was born thanks to my travels. I have travelled the world, from South America to the United States, Lebanon, exploring India even... I built my cellar in London and then I brought it over here. But I do not collect wines merely to collect them, I collect wine to drink them. With friends, with people I love, with people who share my same passion. I like to share. I celebrate life with wine, it's the star of my parties. How has the knowledge of wine changed in Dubai?
The Dubai wine scene has changed a lot over the years and an increased interest is not only evident, rather an increased knowledge. Thanks to initiatives such as those promoted by Gambero Rosso, the Internet, the presence of more and more producers who are committed to making their wines known through tastings and masterclasses, Dubai – which let's not forget, is a cosmopolitan city, open to the world – is an increasingly interested and interesting market. In my own small circle of friends, I can say that I know several who are not only passionate wine lovers but actual collectors, who belong to wine clubs, who taste, uncork, compare, who know more and more and keep drinking better wines. Italian food is extremely popular, I eat Italian at least twice a week, we have all the ingredients, from Mediterranean herbs to buffalo mozzarella, to the best truffles. Italy will be increasingly present in Dubai. I myself dream of opening an Italian restaurant here and making the best chefs come from Italy. In conclusion, please share your take on how to be successful Hard work and good luck. It’s all in the combination of the two. You must have a specific focus, a skillset. Then you should own a business model, perfect it, be disciplined and give yourself an ethic code. And then you have to work on your team. But remember that money can only help you obtain happiness, it is not happiness.
©photo: Messe Düsseldorf/ctillmann
Yoghesh Mehta, CEO of Petrochern, is one of Dubai’s most successful entrepreneurs. He landed in the city at age 29 from India, jobless and has since then build himself an empire. Among his greatest passions are wine and Italian cuisine.
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TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS
TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN SAO PAULO
BRACE Av. Presidente Juscelino Kubitscheck 1489 (Eataly) St. Paul Average Price: R$ 50 This is Eataly São Paulo’s main restaurant. As the name suggests, the cuisine focuses on the grill. Dish interpretations are carried out with mastery and delight by the fine chef of Japanese origin Ligia Karazawa. The lei motif is therefore a quality product whose flavours are exalted by the fire grilling. The bread is baked daily in the woodfired oven, the pasta dishes feature both dry and fresh types, like the bucatini with sausage, radicchio and sangiovese with a clear call to Tuscany; or the seafood lasagna that’s equally baked in the wood-burning oven. Among entrées the best seller is the grilled octopus with potatoes and pumpkin, alongside the seared tuna. Of course, grilled meats are great, such as asado de tira or a super strip loin of black angus. The wine list revolves around the shelf references from Eataly.
FASANO Rua Vitòrio Fasano, 88 - St.Paul www.fasano.com.br Average Price: R$ 350 If you are looking for an evening of
NINO CUCINA R. Jerônimo da Veiga, 30 Jardim Europa, - St. Paul www.ninocucina.com.br Average Price: R$ 90 Before
luxury, tradition and history of Ital-
family moved to Brazil in the early 1900s and immediately began to build its gastronomic empire made today of many restaurants located between São Paulo and Rio, as well as a number of splendid hotels. The cuisine at Fasano is classic, an Italian cookery that over time has obviously been adapted, and that today is under the command of Luca Gozzani, who brings modernity and freshness to the menu. The dishes that deserve attention are the carpaccio of calf’s tongue as well as the scallop carpaccio. Excellent fresh stuffed pastas and risottos, in season do not miss the one with Alba white truffle. The meat entrees include stuffed rabbit and guinea fowl, all performed with elegance and an eye to tradition. The huge cellar is under the command of the best sommelier in the country, Manoel Beato, who besides being a great connoisseur of Italian and French bottles is also a seasoned Maitre D ‘.
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opening
the
doors of his restaurant, Rodolfo
ian cuisine in Brazil, the Fasano restaurant is the place for you. The Fasano
finally
De Santis – an Italian native of Puglia - has cooked here and there in the Brazilian capital. We remember his city debut at Biondi, but above all his time at Tappo, where he brought a beautiful breath of newness in what was at the time the small temple of Italian gourmet. The same breath was continued seamlessly at Nino Cucina. Traditional dishes are revised in modern key in both presentation and precision of flavors. Focus is on dry pasta with classic musts such as amatriciana, cacio e pepe with lobster, and also the beetroot tartare served with goat cheese, or the raw tuna with burrata, which remind us that Rodolfo has both a hand and a head for contemporary dishes.
TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS
There is so much of Italy in São Paulo starting from the eponymous skyscrapers in the heart of the city. The Italian community is extensive, just think close to 5 million locals have at least one Italian relative in the family. By design, Italian dining is vivacious, featuring traditional venues, historical luxury restaurants and top notch pizzerias.
OSTERIA DEL PETTIROSSO
PIZZARIA SPERANZA
Alameda Lorena, 2155 - St. Paul
R.Treze de Maio,1004 - St. Paul
www.pettirosso.com.br
www.pizzaria.com.br
Average Price: R$ 160
Average Price: R$ 50
The
Renzetti’s
restaurant
Classic pizzeria in the Bixiga
began a few years ago with
neighborhood. Try scoring a
the goal of replicating the
table here at 8 p.m. on a Sunday
vibe and offer of a classic Roman trat-
and you’ll understand why this is the
toria. Marco is the owner along with his
number one pizzeria in Brazil. Varia-
wife and chef and is 100% certified Ro-
tions on excellent flying squid dishes
man. The ambiance is casual and in the
to start, and traditional pizzas cooked
kitchen the dishes prepared are tradi-
in the wood-burning oven, such as
tional. With the passage of time, thanks
pizza Margherita, Napoli and Marina-
to a journey of continuous research and
ra, plus excellent calzones. Finally, the
updating through travel and relationships
buckwheat pastiera, prepared accord-
with the wine and food world, the oste-
ing to an original recipe from 1958,
ria’s offer has grown to include the most
is baked here every day. For refresh-
refined dishes alongside classic and well
ments, there’s wine and some simple
executed Roman pastas. Marco’s carbon-
local beer.
VINHERIA PERCUSSI R. Cônego Eugênio Leite, 523 Pinheiros - St. Paul www.percussi.com.br Average Price: R$ 40 The Percussi family has for decades been the reference point for good Italian food and, over time, has become the ambassador of Italian wine in the city thanks to the continuous work of Lamberto Percussi. Through continuous travels to Italy and numerous contacts with various wine makers, he established a true continuous bridge with Italy. The restaurant is classic, reminiscent of typical big city bourgeois restaurants in Italy. The kitchen is under the command of chef Silvia Percussi, who is deeply inspired by Italian regional
ara is a must in the city, just like his cacio
recipes. Arancini, gnocchi with pesto,
e pepe, as well as other Roman prepara-
fresh stuffed pasta, salt cod risotto alla
tions. Nowadays food lovers flock here
Vicentina, and then meat and fish with
for the raw meat served with dehydrated
simple and precise cooking methods.
kale, or for the seafood spaghetti that
The wine cellar is stocked with old
are simple and precise without the usual
vintages, and wine-related events are
bisques that are so loved by many res-
among the most anticipated in São
taurants in the area. We appreciated the
Paulo.
duck breast and the tasty calf’s tongue in sweet-sour sauce. The wine list improves seasonally with particular attention to small boutique and natural producers.
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A GUIDE TO THE LEADING OVER 1200 COMPANIES PRODUCING FOODSTUFFS IN ITALY
Italian Wines 2018 2,485 WINERIES, 22,000 WINES, 436 TRE BICCHIERI WINES A basic, essential volume for professionals and winelovers
An indispensable tool for foodies but even more so for industry insiders promoting the best of Made-in-Italy available in bookshops* and at worldwide amazon.com
www.gamberorosso.it *Italian Wines 2018 is available in USA, Canada, UK and Italy
TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS
TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN SAO PAULO
BRAZ PIZZARIA
RISTORANTE PICCHI
Rua Grauna 125, Moema - St. Paul
Rua Oscar Freire 533 - St. Paul
www.brazpizzaria.com.br
www.restaurantepicchi.com.br
Average Price: R$ 60
Average Price: R$ 143
LEGGERA PIZZA NAPOLETANA Rua Diana 80 - Perdizes - St.Paul www.pizzerialeggera.com.br
The Braz pizzerias (boast-
Born in an Italian family Italian,
ing five addresses in São
Pierpaolo Picchi started working
Andrè Guidon cre-
Paulo alone, plus three in
in the kitchen at a very young age.
ates splendid classic
Rio de Janeiro) are part of the country’s
As soon as possible he left for Europe
pizzas since 2013 in
most important quality dining group:
where he spent time training in vari-
a small venue that seats only 40 din-
Companhia Tradicional de Comercio,
ous kitchens (just to mention two, think
ers in the Perdizes neighbourhood, a
which also includes trattorias, brasseries
Casa Vissani in Italy and Mugaritz in
hangout for intellectuals and a very
and cocktail bars. The ingredients used
Spain). Returning to São Paulo, in 2007
casual ambiance. Leggera was founded
are the best from Italy: Caputo flour
he opened his restaurant that over the
with the intent of raising the quality bar
and tomato “miracle of San Gennaro”
course of time matured to become to-
in a city dining scene that already of-
to mention a few. For fresh products
day a classic restaurant of contempo-
fers quite a number of fine pizzerias.
the kitchen instead relies on the best
rary Italian cuisine with some Brazilian
Care and attention are paid to sourc-
market availability, such as the excel-
influence. Among the starters we ap-
ing quality ingredients, but what makes
lent fennel sausage for the pizza “Ca-
preciated the “cappellini” made with
the pizza at Leggera the best in town is
labresa especial”. There is a classic line
heart of palm, but also the carpaccios of
the skill in proofing the dough, the cor-
of Margheritas, Napoletana pizza, and
beef and swordfish. The menu features
rect amount of toppings and a talented
pizza with anchovies, and a more Bra-
pastas such as spaghetti with cuttlefish
hand at the oven. The pizza marinara
zilian line with seasonings that can ap-
ink and shrimp, or rigatoni amatriciana.
is the strongpoint, and the calzones are
peal to locals. Great cocktails, and good
Among the entrées, try the octopus
applaud-worthy. In addition to the clas-
craft beers. There is a small wine list and
with polenta, or the baked veal shank.
sic pies, Andrè’s signature pies include
a fine sangiovese poured by the glass
The wine list could be more structured
the Divina Commedia filled with bu-
that’s made in partnership with the Tus-
given the quality of the kitchen.
fala, smoked provola, basil, parmigiano,
can Mazzei company.
Average Price: R$ 50
spicy sausage and caramelized onion.
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THE GRAND MAESTRO DI LANGA: HOMAGE TO BRUNO GIACOSA In January 2018 Bruno Giacosa passed away, one of the most important personalities in the Langhe winemaking of the past 50 years. He was born in 1929 and began travelling to vineyards and estates with his father who traded grapes and wines: he learned how to recognize grapes and terroir. He always chose his grapes by tasting the berries. And he has always been a classicist in the cellar. His labels are an ode to his wine territory, which is among the noblest in the world. His wines are disputed between collectors and auctions, who hunt down the best vintages.
words by Gianni Fabrizio – infographics by Alessandro Naldi
STORIES
B
runo started travelling through vineyards and farms very young, along with his father Mario who traded grapes and a small production of bulk wines. In that period his grandfather Carlo – who started bottling at the end of the 19th century in his small but already awarded winery – was about to die. So, at age 13, little Bruno learned about vinification techniques very young, under the guidance of his father (same path treaded by his daughter Bruna, who now runs the winery after following her father’s steps for years). But above all Bruno learned early on to identify vineyards of the Langhe entering directly in contact with the winemakers from which he would then later select the best grapes for his labels. The turning point was the year 1956: when Bruno decided not to sell to other wineries and to keep some wine barrels for himself, in view of the launch of his own personal winery which he launched four years later, in 1960. The wines made by Bruno Giacosa therefore proposed with the 1957 year vintage; but the first truly important label was born in 1964: the Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva Speciale, followed in 1967 by the Barbaresco Asili Riserva and the Collina Rionda. For 23 years, Bruno Giacosa continued to purchase grapes based on three fundamental characteristics: appreciation for the vineyard, confidence in the winemaker producer and, not less important, the quality of the vintage. This ex-
1
1929 – On April 10 Bruno Giacosa is born, the son of a grape and bulk wine salesman, and grandson of a passionate winemaker 1942 – Bruno’s grandfather passes away; Bruno’s father inherits the winery. Young Bruno had been introduced to the mysteries of grape crushing and fermentation by his grandfather 1943 – Follows his father, Mario, in the vineyard: his first grape harvest
1920
1940
1956 – Bruno decides to stop selling grapes, and to start making his own wine: the project is a personal winery
1975 – Acquisition of the Asili cru: 5 hectares of Barbaresco always in the heart of the winemaker 1964 – Luigi Brigante, owner of the Cru Falletto (Barolo), gives exclusivity of his grapes to Bruno 1960 – The actual winery is born: Casa Vinicola Giacosa. 1974 – Bruno Giacosa First sold vintage is 1957 bottles his first Arneis
1950 GAMBERO ROSSO
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1970
HOMAGE TO BRUNO GIACOSA
1996 – Bruno Giacosa’s new winery is born: 2008 – Dante Scaglione leaves the winery 1980 –First acquisition of Azienda Agricola Falletto. Acquires a first portion for 3 years until his return in 2011: he is the the cru Falletto (Barolo): of the Rabajà vineyard (Barbaresco) best interpreter of the Maestro’s philosophy 9 hectares of vineyard 1983 – Giacosa launches his first traditional 2013 – Acquires a new parcel in method label: Extra Brut made with grapes hailing 1998 – Acquires vineyards in Rabajà: this is where the grapes of from Oltrepò Pavese the cru Serradenari in La Morra the current Barbaresco Rabajà grow 1992 – Giacosa decides to seek the help 2006 – Bruno Giacosa health 2018 – At age 88 Bruno Giacosa passes away. of Dante Scaglione: an oenology lab technician starts to waver. His daughter Bruna His daughter Bruna, following in her father’s who became his right-hand man steps in, she had been following footsteps for years, takes charge of continuing in his footsteps for years her father’s legacy, the Maestro di Langa
1980
1990
2000 GAMBERO ROSSO
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2010
A GUIDE TO THE LEADING OVER 1200 COMPANIES PRODUCING FOODSTUFFS IN ITALY
An indispensable tool for foodies but even more so for industry insiders promoting the best of Made-in-Italy worldwide
www.gamberorosso.it
HOMAGE TO BRUNO GIACOSA
2
1. A splendid panorama of Falletto, the Serralunga vineyard that since 1996 has given its name to the Piedmontese winery 2. One of the winery houses of the Giacosa estate, in the upper part of Neive
plains the variability – especially in the first decades – of his wines: often a certain cru may come out only once or twice, depending on the choices being made in the vineyard. It may sound incidental, but it is on the other hand an element of great importance: as Bruno Giacosa himself said, he was never a great drinker. «I trust my nose and my mouth blindly - he’s say - At the time of the harvest I taste the grapes, I chew them...» And he was hardly ever wrong. It’s important to know that in addition to working in his own winery Giacosa al-
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ways worked as a grape broker on behalf of large companies in the Langhe, thus obliged to personally visit many growers and their vineyards. «To better understand the vices and virtues of “my” farmers, I often take long walks among the rows with my dog», he often told me. It was his system for evaluating the seriousness and professional skills of winemakers. So much so that once I asked him which was the cru that had escaped him and that he would have wanted to make personally: «There is one, Pianpolvere Soprano, which gives
STORIES
extraordinary grapes and is well employed by the Fenocchio family, but I can not convince them...» he confessed. This is a vineyard currently owned by Rodolfo Migliorini of Rocche dei Manzoni. The growing difficulty in finding big grapes in the Langa then induced him to buy, in 1980, what came down as the first important plot of the Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa, and thus laying the foundations for what, from ‘96, became the new “Falletto Winery.” Those were the years of great excitement around the nouvelle vague, with hundreds of new wineries being born. These were obviously no longer willing to sell their grapes to the social cellars, nor to Bruno Giacosa. With the hectares acquired in the Cru Falletto of Serralunga, a new chapter began, which continued in 1996 with the Asili crus and, in 1998, with plots in La Morra in Serradenari. This is where the white label of Barolo produced exclusively in 2004 comes from: the Vigna Croera of La Morra, but this parcel was then sold in 2012. The acquisition of the Rabajà was on the other hand more articulate: in 1996 he bought a first portion (later inserted by the modification of the production disciplinary concerning the additional geographical indications in the Asili cru); while the purchase of another parcel dates back to 2013, from which the grapes of the current Barbaresco Rabajà are derived.
Undoubtedly, Bruno Giacosa was born as a producer of red wines, but his foresight and his attention to the changing needs of consumers never went underestimated: in 1974 he produced the first bottle of Arneis (which then became Roero Arneis in 2004 with the establishment of the DOCG) and in 1983 the Extra Brut traditional method sparkling wine made from Oltrepò Pavese grapes. The sense of “classic” for Bruno Giacosa always started in the vineyard: all his labels express the utmost respect for the personality of the grape, the cru and the vintage. In the vineyard, Bruno Giacosa was never one known for particularly low yields, convinced as he was that a good winter pruning (leaving 8 or 9 buds) did not need drastic summer cuts. Therefore, when the vintage allowed it, he always had production close to 6070 quintals of grapes per hectare, which is considered an optimal point of expression of the Nebbiolo grape. In the cellar, Bruno was a classicist only in the sense of rejecting invasive practices (such as concentrators), but he was always very attentive to the needs of grapes. «When I was younger, I used to sleep on a deckchair in the room next to the cellar in order to constantly monitor the fermentation process,» he used to say. For Giacosa, reference to the years of the past went hand in hand with his manifest conviction that the quality decline of the grapes produced in the Langhe was
BARBARESCO & BAROLO. THE VINTAGES THAT DEFINE THE MYTH In these years I have had the chance to drink the wines of Bruno Giacosa on several occasions, in important verticals in Italy and in Switzerland, at dinner with friends and colleagues, in blind tastings for the Vini d’Italia guide and, with great pleasure, sitting with Bruno in his private tasting room. I must say that I am a great admirer of this winery that has produced some of the most pleasant and interesting bottles of Barolo and Barbaresco I ever tasted in my life. Here are some of the most significant vintages of the wines that have made this Neive winery into a worldwide wine legend. Since these are particularly
long-lived
wines, we will only investigate reds with a few years
of
winery’s expression.
THE PROPERTY CRUS After experimenting vinification in numerous crus of the Barolo and Barbaresco production areas, wishing to personally control the entire supply chain starting from the vines, Bruno Giacosa chose to acquire and permanently incorporate in the estate three plots of land that had been in his heart for some time: Asili, Rabajà and Falletto. The first purchase takes place in 1980 in the Falletto cru. This is a 9-hectare monopoly that belonged to Luigi Brigante, who had been a grape seller to Bruno Giacosa since 1964. The vineyard is located south of the town, towards the Alta Langa, in the southernmost part of the district, bordering with the Boscareto and Ornato crus, at an altitude between 320 and 420 meters above sea level. The most suitable part of the vineyard is vinified separately and used to produce Barolo Falletto Vigna Le Rocche, also in the Riserva version. Half way past the following decade the estae acquires the Asili vineyard, 5 hectares in two separate plots already owned by the Odore family. In 2013 Giacosa purchases a small parcel of the Rabajà cru, less than one hectare, from the Alutto family.
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age,
and that are the best
HOMAGE TO BRUNO GIACOSA
Barbaresco Santo Stefano di Neive Riserva
1982
A vintage of great finesse and amplitude, with the presence of rather fruity yet rather youthful notes that are combined with perceivable tones of tar and licorice. The palate is powerful and concentrated, without however being opulent; excellent acidity, tannins are solid but well resolved: it will evolve positively for several more years.
Barbaresco Santo Stefano di Neive Riserva
1988
Very complex nose, faceted and rather ripe, set on a base of plum aromas. Surely soft and round in the mouth, but well punctuated by tannin. Overall the wine is enveloping and rich, more than I would have expected from this rather austere vintage.
Barbaresco Asili di Barbaresco Riserva
1996
Very intense on the nose with aromas of strawberries and red fruits that justify the Langa-Burgundy kinship, followed by memories of tobacco. The palate is dynamic with a narrow tannic texture and strong acidity, balanced by rich extraction body. A young and very powerful Barbaresco made for very long aging.
Barbaresco Asili di Barbaresco Ris.
2000
The 2000 vintage opens on the lines of 1996, leaving ample space to aromas of red berries, enriched by nuances of wet earth; but the taste takes a decidedly more docile turn thanks to silky tannins and a less vibrant acidity. The Asili 2000 preserves the fine and elegant personality of the cru, almost in contrast with the warm and mature character of the harvest.
Barolo Rocche di Castiglione Falletto Ris. Speciale
1971
The wine betrays incredible youth: one of the deepest and most luminous. On the nose the complexity is very present with flavours of tar and licorice, but in the finish a freshly fruity note returns. The palate shows velvety character and champion persistence, with still serious tannins and great overall balance. Perfect today, but still with plenty of things to say in years ahead.
Barolo Collina Rionda di Serralunga d’Alba Ris. Speciale
1978
The colour is impressive for intensity and vivacity, so much so that it looks fifteen years younger. The nose carries memories of a year of great late ripening, with aromas of raspberry clearly perceived and along with the taste of the original grape. The palate has heaps of concentration and chewable structure, without ever losing elegance.
Barolo Collina Rionda di Serralunga d’Alba Ris.
1989
Considered by many as one of history’s top ten Barolo, this wine keeps all its promises: the nose is generous and offers a bursting aroma of ripe fruit, made more complex by the memories of tobacco and licorice. The sensations of harmony and maturity are confirmed on the palate, which combines, as only few reds do, rich texture and tannic severity.
Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba Ris.
1986
In a little known vintage, characterised by violent thunderstorms and hail, the Falletto 1986 stands out for its aristocratic character of the nose with aromas of graphite and fresh soil enriching the fruity notes. The palate does not have the power and opulence of hot harvests, but is appreciated for the size and youth.
Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba Ris.
1989
This powerful Barolo offers an intense and fresh nose that enhances raspberry as well as one of the most distinctive olfactory characteristics of Nebbiolo: a balsamic appearance, with notes of anise that resemble fennel. In the mouth it is very long and has a harmonious and elegant personality that makes it a bit serious yet not devoid of fullness.
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STORIES
I 9 CRU delThe Barolo firmati Cru da Giacosa 9 Barolo By Giacosa
THE 9 BAROLO CRU BY GIACOSA
Verduno
Barolo Rocche (aka Le Rocche) di Castiglione Falletto produced in the vintages 1978, 1979, 1980, 1982,1985, 1986 and 1987 produced only as Riserva in 1971
1
Gallo d’Alba
2
Villero di Castiglione Falletto
made from 1978 to 1996 not made in 1981, 1984, 1991, 1992 and 1994 produced also as Riserva in 1978
La Morra Pugnane di Castiglione Falletto
3
Villero di Castiglione Falletto Castiglione Falletto
4 5
Vigna Croera di La Morra Barolo Rocche di Castiglione Falletto
Barolo
Collina Rionda
Falletto
Monforte d’Alba Torino Arione di Serralunga Alba Cuneo
because of the excessive use of chemicals, in particular from the end of the Sixties. It is for this very reason that – after the first period in which he made wine leaving the skins in the must, with the technique called “submerged cap”, even for 40+ days – he then started cut this interval by about a half, roughly three weeks (obviously also based on the quality of the vintage). In regard to oak aging, he always avoided using small containers favouring larger barrels, mostly between 55 and 100 quintal-capacity ones, and preferring very
soon those made of French wood compared to those made in Slovenian oak. Besides an expert grape selector, Bruno was always also a very skilled cellar master, making all the decisions on his own until 1992. That is the year in which he decided to seek the support of a technician. This person worked in the laboratory where Bruno used to bring his samples to be analysed for his wines. Convinced of Dante Scaglione’s skills, he asked him to leave his job and become his full-time right-hand man.
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Pugnane di Castiglione Falletto made only in the 1978 vintage Arione di Serralunga
Vigna Croera di La Morra
made only in the 2004 vintage
7
Ginestra di Monforte
only made in the 1974 vintage
made only in the 1971, 1976 and 1978 vintages
6 Bussia di Monforte
Ginestra di Monforte
Bussia di Monforte
made only as Riserva in the 1974, 1975, 1978 and 1979 vintages 8 Collina Rionda (aka sometimes as di Serralunga or di Serralunga d’Alba) made between 1967 and 1993 not made in the 1972, 1973, 1976, 1977, 1979, 1981, 1983, 1984, 1986, 1987, 1998, 1991 and 1992 vintages; also made as Riserva in 1967 made only as Riserva in the 1978, 1982, 1989 and 1990 vintages Falletto (aka sometimes di Serralunga 9 or di Serralunga d’Alba) made since 1970; no made in the 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1983, 1984, 1991, 1992, 1994, 2002, 2006, 2010 and 2013 vintages; made only as Riserva in 1971, 1985, 1989 and 1990 vintages; made also as Riserva in 1986 and 1996. Since 1997 Le Rocche del Falletto, with white or red label, not made in the 2002, 2006 and 2010 vintages; made only as Riserva in the 2000, 2001, 2004, 2007 and 2008 vintages. According to the modification of the production disciplinary of Barolo, the wine is sold with the Falletto Riserva Vigna Le Rocche label since 2011 and as Vigna Le Rocche in 2013.
HOMAGE TO BRUNO GIACOSA
THE 8 BARBARESCO CRU BY GIACOSA Santo Stefano (sometimes also di Neive, or di Neive d’Alba, or Albesani Santo Stefano or Santo Stefano Albesani di Neive) made between 1964 and 2011. Not made in the 1965, 1966, 1972, 1973, 1975, 1977, 1981, 1984, 1991, 1992, 1994, 2002, 2003, 2006 and 2010 vintages; also made as Riserva in 1964, 1971, 1974, 1978 vintages. Made only as Riserva in 1982, 1985, 1988, 1989, 1990 and 1998 vintages.
Barbaresco By da Giacosa Gli 8The CRU8del BarbarescoCru firmati Giacosa Albesani di Neive
1
2
Santo Stefano
Montefico di Barbaresco
Gallina di Neive
Barbaresco
Neive Rabajà
Asili
Borgonovo
Gallina di Neive
made between 1974 and 1998. Not made in 1975, 1976, 1977, 1981, 1984, 1991, 1992, 1994 and 1997 vintages Asili 3 (sometimes also di Barbaresco) made in 1967 and then since 1990. Not made in 1991, 1992, 1994, 2002, 2006 and 2010; also made as Riserva in 2007; made only as Riserva in 1967, 1990, 1996, 2000, 2004 and 2011 Rabajà 4 (sometimes also di Barbaresco) made from 1996 to 2005 and then since 2013; not made in 1999, 2002 and 2003 vintages; made only as Riserva in the 2001 vintage
5
Albesani di Neive
6
Montefico di Barbaresco
San Cristoforo di Neive
Rio Sordo di Barbaresco
Treiso
San Rocco
Torino Alba Cuneo
made in the 1969, 1970 and 1971 vintages
made in the 1969, 1970 and 1971 vintages San Cristoforo di Neive
7
made in the 1971 and 1974 vintages Rio Sordo di Barbaresco
8
made in the 1985 vintage
This collaboration lasted uninterrupted until 2008, with a hiatus that lasted until 2011. One can certainly say that Dante Scaglione acquired and interpreted the teachings of his master as best he could, as proven by the wines produced after 2006, the year in which the health of Bruno Giacosa started to waver. His labels of the most prestigious vintages are collector gold, available only in very particular and specialized auction sessions, and definitely also beyond Italy. Having closely followed
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the work of Bruno over the years, we also had the opportunity to tell his life through his labels, which express his lifetime’s philosophy and his deep bond with the rows and the vineyards, which he so loved and knew like the back of his hand. His wines are like poetic verses dedicated to the Langa, to its fogs, to the sweat on the brow of its peasants, to the joys and dilemmas in the cellar, to the adventures – which were sometimes misadventures – spent among those world famous rows.
WINE AND YOUNGER GENERATIONS, A SURVEY OF ITALIAN MILLENNIALS They are between 38 and 18 years old, they are curious, they seek advice online, they're attentive in regard to sustainability and they love sharing with the digital community. This is the identikit of millennials, the Y generation, and world markets have handed them the arduous task of restarting the economy. Will they manage to raise wine sales in Italy?
words by Stefania Annese and William Pregentelli art by Maurizio Ceccato
STORIES
I
taly is particularly sensitive in regard to wine. Since the famous scandal involving methanol, in the last 40 years wine consumption has dipped from 114 litres per capita in 1970 to 37 litres in 2016. In the mix are social factors and changes in life that have made wine lose its function of food and energy supplement. Today, according to data provided by Wine Monitor-Nomisma, Italian wine consumption stands at 22.5 million hectolitres. Of this total, millennials represent a portion of just 11%, while Generation X––the previous age group, born between 1965-1979––represents 34%. The situation overseas is very different, where on a consumption of 30 million hectolitres; millennials occupy the largest portion (42%), compared to 20% of Generation X. A reflection is therefore mandatory: when talking about GenY it's important to keep in mind in which part of the world we're looking: not all millennials are the same. And yet, one cannot ignore the fact that, in a globalized consumption system, what happens 10,000 km away affects us as if it were just around the corner.
ITALIAN WINE CONSUMPTION BY GENERATION L ENNIALS 11%
M IL
MIL LIO NH EC TO
€6 ES TR LI
Average expense
bottle dining out
€ 13,50 glass
over 70
€ 4,50
17% baby boomers
22
38%
ON PTI UM S N CO
generation X
34%
L A
THE NUMBERS OF WINE & YOUNGSTERS But back to the Belpaese and its millennials. What are their consumption habits? How much are they willing to spend on a bottle of wine? What factors push them to purchase? First of all, note how the wine vs. beer match does not yet have clear winners: 65% of preferences go to beer; 64% to wine. At a distance behind, with 46%, stand spirits. As for places of consumption, 55% of millennials prefer drinking outside the home against 45% who prefer consumption at home. In particular, with regard to wine consumed at home, the preferred channel of purchase remains retail (45%). A direct purchase from the producers follows at 28%, and in a wine shop at 17%. E-commerce instead is still struggling, remaining anchored to a modest 3%. As for the consumption outside the home, among the favourite places, we find restaurants (34%), followed by wine shops (27%), bars and pubs (24%) and trattorias/pizzerias (14%). It goes without saying that depending on the channel, the average expenditure also changes. Domestic consumption stands at an average price of 6 euros per bottle, while the out of home consumption is 13.5 euros (4.5 euros for a glass). The preferences in terms of type of wine are therefore very close: 76% for red wine; 75% for white and 74% for sparkling wines. It should be noted, however, that in six years (from 2010 to 2016) bubbles are the category that has increased more (+11%). But what attracts the new generations most to a bottle of wine? Without a doubt, packaging: personalized (35%) and eco-sustainable (31%) bottles. If, however, we refer to the characteristics of the wine: native grapes (31%), sustainability (26%), organic (18%). Finally, a brief consideration. If the future consumption of wine could rely on millennials, the fact remains that this generation's perception of wine is mostly linked to the past. At Wine Monitor's request to associate an adjective with wine, the answers were: tradition
TO T
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bottle at home
for 36%; special occasions for 13%; culture for 12%. Perhaps even this is a starting point to maintain traditions intact, but also considering simpler concepts of creativity and sharing. OUR SURVEY This is the data and market research available, and from here we started our research. If analysis institutes report a rather disjointed rapport between the world of wine and the world of young people, our survey helps to test this postulate. How? Interviewing market professionals and customers themselves! We involved wine shops, shop owners, their consumers (at each wine shop we asked to single out a millennial customer and we interviewed them) and then the sommeliers. To wine shops we asked how many young people they have among their customers, what they buy, how much they spend, what level of expertise they have and what the wine store does to attract them. Instead, we asked the millennial customers indicated by the wine shops what they buy, how much they spend, what place they consume most, if they attend trade fairs and why they approached this world. Finally, the sommeliers of the dining world, to whom we asked three questions: how do you see the wine-youth relationship; how has this relationship changed over the years, and what can be done to improve it. From the overall reading of all these contributions comes an unconventional photograph of the Italian wine world in relation to younger generations. Let the debate begin. In collaboration with Loredana Sottile
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A SURVEY OF ITALIAN MILLENNIALS
As illustrated in the chart, Italy millennials represent a minority share of the market compared to other age groups. On the spending front, the average price per bottle is around 6 euros for home consumption while 13.50 euros are spent on wine outside the home (average price per glass: 4,50 euro). (source: Wine Monitor Nomisma)
In the wine shop, beyond statistics
MILLENNIALS & WINE 11 WINE BARS, 11 CLIENTS AND THEIR OPINIONS
TURIN ROSSO RUBINO EDOARDO GAZZERA MILLENNIALS CLIENTELE: Millennials are a minority, due in part to the style of the venue that is mostly directed towards an adult audience, and a little also because of the socio-economic dynamics of the under 35 age group. The closer you get to 30 and the more interest grows, conversely, as soon as ages go over 20 the lesser the wine lovers. For a statistical survey I would say millennials are 10% of our customers. WHAT DO THEY BUY/HOW MUCH DO THEY SPEND: They are more closely atTHE CLIENT: tracted to local production Emanuele Lodo, 23 anni, and tradition with a reduced Economic Student average budget of 10 euros “I usually (in about 60% of cases) buy per bottle. It is also a very Piedmontese native grape variety mismatched group. In fact, wines in order to have a complete it's not rare to have youngoverview of the producers, I tend to sters who, due to their prefer red grape varieties and more in domestic habits and famparticular nebbiolo. In the remaining ily background, are used to 40% of the time I try to buy wines from drinking decidedly above the most representative producers in average. In these cases, are every region of Italy and I'm starting more easily attracted the to approach the French wine world. I "treat bottles," often French, go to my wine store to buy wines I'm with a budget between 50 unfamiliar with, or to taste them for and 100 euro. the first time and not necessarily for HOW KNOWLEDGEABLE special occasions. I drink more wine ARE THEY: The latter have at home, because choices are limited great wine knowledge. Both at restaurants or wine bars, and I'm categories, however, are unitmore accustomed to ordering bettered by interest and curiosity. known bottles. I have recently started WHAT DO YOU DO attending wine events; the last one TO ATTRACT THEM: Activiwas Live Wine in Milan, held March ties like basic appreciation 4th. I started to approach the world of courses or tastings (even wine from an economic point of view, low-cost ones), in addition for study reasons, and from that my to the simple by the glass passion began, discovering a world option with a selection of 15 that hid behind what seemed to be wines by the glass, with rapid only a niche market.” rotation of labels.
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This is not the first time this happens and it's happening again. We receive data that seems interesting and worthy of study, we try to work on it, we start with a journalistic inquiry, almost an investigation, aimed in some measure to prove those data, certifying them and making them the subject of debate. And then what happens? The research says something completely different, effectively denying official data. On the one hand, the most accredited researches see an ever greater distance between young people and wine, with the aggravating circumstance that the oeno-universe presents, in the absence of credible formats, as a set of models that are still difficult to convey on social media and additionally, ruthless competition posed from beer and cocktails. On the other there are wine bars and sommeliers with whom we interviewed in these pages. Here the atmosphere seems completely different, the scenario appears lively, active, full of interested, attentive, participant and very involved millennials. Where does the truth lie then? Probably in both results: on the one hand there is data collected by the mass market, on the other, the point of view of the sector's most qualified part. In the most cultured wineries, in the most attentive of restaurants, each employing the most active and up-to-date professionals, the scenario sees no crisis; there are no generational impacts and loosening of tension. It is a clear message on how fundamental it is to give voice and marketing opportunities to the food sector, which incidentally is doing more research and is more on the frontier of quality and innovation. If lately in our new monthly project we have turned chefs, fishmongers, butchers (or indeed sommeliers and wine shop owners) into columnists, on the one hand we do this to force limits, and on the other it's instead an attempt to give as much visibility as possible to the work of those who bring innovation and culture to the country's strategic and crucial industry, and the country's future. Thus giving the most visibility to those who, as in this case, are obstinately going against the trend and offering an authentic first class public service. — Massimiliano Tonelli
STORIES
MILAN ENOCLUB MASSIMO MALFASSI MILLENNIALS CLIENTELE: More and more young people are approaching quality wine; this is evident also by great success that our tasting evenings and our introductory wine courses
have received. To date I would say that the percentage of people under 30 is around 20%, up to a few years ago barely was 10%. This is undoubtedly a great positive sign. WHAT DO THEY BUY/HOW MUCH DO THEY SPEND: They are very curious; they like being advised, and have
THE CLIENT: Camilla Giorgetti, 25, legal trainee “There is not one type of wine I buy more often. When I have the opportunity to go to dinner or entertain at home I go to the wine shop and ask for advice. Lately I hosted a seafood dinner for which I chose two white wines, a dry version of malvasia and a bottle of grillo. My training? For now I attend only "monographic" courses: one on tasting techniques and another was a grape variety comparison on each evening. There was no event or person in particular that brought me closer to this world, on the contrary, for a long time I did not drink wine because I did not like it. Growing up I had more opportunities to taste quality wine and slowly I grew curious. However, the idea that I had of this world was skewed because I felt there was "hostility" towards neophytes. Deepening knowledge stopped at desire more than anything else. But then, fortunately, I met the right people. Food and wine pairing? Doesn't necessarily have to be a "traditional" combination; I also like experimenting but experiments must always be reasoned ones.”
PADUA ENOTECA LA MOSCHETA EMANUELE SALMASO
medium-high expectations. They mainly buy wine; important red wines and bubbles are the main choices. Spirits are equally very popular, especially Gin but also Rum and Whiskey get great attention. HOW KNOWLEDGEABLE ARE THEY: Wine knowledge in recent years has risen constantly and young people are no exception. Actually, they are the driving force of change. Wine knowledge in recent years has risen constantly and young people are no exception. Actually, they are the driving force of change.We organize a lot of wine events with big wine producers, introductory wine appreciation courses, and free tastings. All our events are very popular, and the percentage of young participants grows constantly. In particular, even young women now constitute an important percentage and often are the majority, inconceivable 10 years ago.
THE CLIENT: Valentina Bernardi, 28, photographer “Personally I prefer reds, especially Cabernet, I very much like Veneto and Friuli wines because I started to discover my passion for wine thanks to these wines. I buy in wine shops especially if I want to bring a bottle to dinners I'm invited to, to thank the hosts, or as presents for birthdays or Christmas. In wine shops I also buy wine when I'm entertaining at home, instead of buying it at the supermarket where unfortunately the same quality is hard to find. Where do I eat? Usually at home; unless I'm invited out dinners, I never drink wine or spirits. I like to drink wine with good dishes and enhance the flavours, but I think drinking wine daily, or using it in the simple every day cooking is not really necessary. My ideal evening is one enjoyed with good dinner and a nice glass of wine. Regarding wine training, I participate in some tastings organized here in the area but if I go to some other region I like to visit the local cellars and taste their specialties. I approached wine by drinking it more for company than for a real conscious approach; then thanks to my boyfriend I learned to appreciate it and I also started to pay more attention to food pairings.”
MILLENNIALS CLIENTELE: I’d say a good 25%, and growing compared to the past. Our shop is over 40 years old, when my father opened the wine shop; the average customer age was much higher than it is today. Fortunately, the trend is that younger people are approaching the quality wine culture, and with awareness. WHAT DO THEY BUY/HOW MUCH DO THEY SPEND: They buy everything without too many barriers except those constituted by price, which on average is around 10-15 euro bottles. Other customers with bigger budgets invest more, for example in Champagne. HOW KNOWLEDGEABLE ARE THEY: Competence is decent and growing, even if sometimes people tend to follow fashion. For example, now Lugana, Ribolla gialla and Valpolicella Ripasso are highly sought after: when a young customer approaches the counter, you know that 70% of the time he/she will order one of these three wines. WHAT DO YOU DO TO ATTRACT THEM: We organize many guided tastings, but our "training activity" is practically done every day, and mostly through wine sold by the glass. Having a long history, our venue boasts a loyal clientele and enthusiasts: also thanks to exchange of opinions and debate, our younger clients can increase their wine awareness.
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A SURVEY OF ITALIAN MILLENNIALS
TRIESTE ENOTECA BISCHOFF PAOLA HROVATIN
AND GLORIA AMODEO MILLENNIALS CLIENTELE: I’d say the percentage is around 25%, and in net growth compared to past years.
WHAT DO THEY BUY/HOW MUCH DO THEY SPEND: The success of bubbles is not just an international phenomenon; this is the preferred wine by young people here too. So there is plenty of space for Prosecco and Franciacorta. Following closely are white and red wines of our region. HOW KNOWLEDGEABLE ARE THEY: Wine knowledge is equally on the
rise. Young people nowadays show a lot of interest in wine and look for means and opportunities to deepen their knowledge on the subject. WHAT DO YOU DO TO ATTRACT THEM: Our wine shop often arranges wine appreciation course and tastings, which are very popular. The average age is lower, year after year.
THE CLIENT: Riccardo Amodeo, 28, pharmacist “I am very fond of South Tyrolean wines, Trento DOC and Franciacorta, I have a soft spot for bubbles, I love Etna and I know the wines of my region quite well, but I like Moselle Rieslings and Slovenian wines: they are our neighbours so it would be difficult, if not wrong, to ignore them. How is my average wine consumption divided? Gifts, dinners or tasting evenings. I mostly go with a group of friends: we are 4 and everyone carries a bottle covered with aluminium foil. We decide on a theme and everyone knows what he has brought, but doesn't know what the others have brought. It's a lot of fun: it's like playing Clue, but with wine. I'd say that I drink more at home, both mine and at friends'. But I also have favourite wine bars and restaurants where I can feel on the safe side, and where I drink good wine when I'm out. Events? For years now I've been attending my region's Open Cellars events. Last year I was at the "Ein Prosit" food and wine event in Malborghetto (UD). I also participated in a tasting-meeting with the Trieste AIS delegation. Then for my college graduation I was gifted with two wine tasting courses organized by Enoteca Bischoff. That's where my passion was born. My last purchase was a French wine. I read your article on the Champagne of the Vallée de la Marne, mainly Pinot Meunier and I wanted to taste a 100% Meunier wine. I purchased it online directly from the Delouvin-Nowack company website: I ordered a case of 6 bottles.”
FLORENCE LE VOLPI E L’UVA CIRO BELIGNI MILLENNIALS CLIENTELE: More and more young people frequent my wine shop. We try to involve them with various activities, to make them passionate about the world of wine. I would say that the percentage is now around 30%. WHAT DO THEY BUY/HOW MUCH DO THEY SPEND: They buy affordable bottles, spending approximately 10-15 euro. As a wine shop we work harder and harder to find the best quality at the best possible price so that everyone, including young people, can afford a good bottle of wine. However youngsters mostly look for softer wines, like the Bolgheri, although lately the desire for native grapes such as Sangiovese and Nebbiolo is growing rapidly. HOW KNOWLEDGEABLE ARE THEY: Young people prove to be increas-
THE CLIENT: Luisa Bosi, 33, actress “The wines I prefer are Champagne, Chablis, Pinot Noir, Lugana and Nerello Mascalese. I don't buy them as often as I'd like to, especially because they are not often available in supermarkets. More generally, I buy wines from my region, Umbria: I really appreciate Sagrantino di Montefalco. I go to wine shops quite frequently, also because I live very close to one of the best in the city. I go when I want to buy gifts or buy wine for a dinner with friends. In the past I attended trade fairs such as Vinitaly in Verona and Open Cellars in Umbria. Having many friends who work in the restaurant business, I also often take part in cellar visits, tastings and dinners with special pairings. I remember a very nice one held at Burde here in Florence, a few years ago. I approached the world of wine thanks to many friends working in the wine industry. In addition, as a good Umbrian, I have always been fascinated by the terrain morphology of the vineyards, the peasant work and the conviviality that wine has always represented, even in my family.”
ingly competent. Many attend courses. There’s lots of curiosity. WHAT DO YOU DO TO ATTRACT THEM: Above all blind tastings. I organize groups of up to 6-7 people so that everyone can actively participate and be involved in the tasting and in the
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analysis of the characteristics of the grape varieties and of the various Italian and foreign terroirs. In addition, we organize events with producers who talk about their wines, and sharing their wineries, their philosophy of agriculture and life.
STORIES
PERUGIA ENOTECA GIÒ SARA BORIOSI MILLENNIALS CLIENTELE: In my wine shop, customers under 30 cover about 30% of total customers. WHAT DO THEY BUY/HOW MUCH DO THEY SPEND: Purchases vary a lot but they can be divided in three tiers: young people who turn to small independent producers; those interested in wine producers of the region; and finally those willing to spend a little more and buy bigger labels. However, the average spent is around 20-25 euro. HOW KNOWLEDGEABLE ARE THEY: Customers under 30-35 are almost always students at AIS, FIS or other associations. This means they are people who are conscious of what they are purchasing. The percentage of mere enthusiasts is minimal. WHAT DO YOU DO TO ATTRACT THEM: Our wine shop offers discounts of 10% reserved for course participants. We also organize tasting evenings with associations and offer above all competence and transversal advice of our staff during the purchase. We like breaking the somewhat rigid schemes that offered by certain courses.
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THE CLIENT: Diego Cichetti, 24, medical student “When purchasing wine I try to constantly change my choice of bottles, often asking the staff for advice to those more experienced than me. For this aspect in particular, the relationship with the wine shop owner is fundamental. In regard to more consistent purchases I would certainly say: Franciacorta, Vermentino, Sagrantino. On best occasions, I may even choose French wines, especially from Bordeaux or from Côtes du Rhône. When do I drink wine? When there is something to celebrate; for example, after a successful exam, a good bottle of wine is a pleasure I willingly indulge in. And then certainly when dining out: dinner in a restaurant can't be without a good wine, obviously chosen according to dishes ordered. Even when I meet up with friends for aperitivo, my choice often falls on a glass of bubbles, usually Franciacorta.”
APRIL 2018
A SURVEY OF ITALIAN MILLENNIALS
ROME TRIMANI PAOLO TRIMANI
THE CLIENT: Jacopo Zagato, Jacopo Zagato, 25, political sciences student
“I like to vary my wine drinking, and this is because I like trying different wines, MILLENNIALS CLIENTELE: The but I do have some fixed points: Friulian whites, Valpolicella reds and of course younger clientele is very interesting in from Piedmont. Two in particular: Pelaverga di Verduno and Ruché from Castterms of numbers, I would say at least agnole Monferrato. When do I mostly drink wine? When I cook, which hap20%, and above all it's a curious and pens often, I like to choose the right wine, or even experiment, and so I go interested audience; young people are to my wine shop, and I choose carefully. At home I usually drink usually only frequent visitors to the wine shop in via at dinner, and not always. Lately, I have refined a principle: "drink right, drink Goito and the wine bar in via Cernaia. little, drink well." At the restaurant I usually choose a bottle, even on behalf of WHAT DO THEY BUY/HOW MUCH the friends I'm with. But it's rare––at least in my entourage and for my pockDO THEY SPEND: The greatest interets––to find restaurants where the balance between the quality of the offer est is on artisanal productions, on less and the cost of the product is good. How do I keep up to date on wine? A year renowned areas and more particular ago I attended a master course that lasted a few months on wine import and wine types: they are local natural wine export. On that occasion I met teachers and students with whom I still keep in drinkers and even for budget reasons touch. In particular, an important Italian oenologist who transmitted his pasthey discard big names.. sion for quality and wine production methods. HOW KNOWLEDGEABLE ARE THEY: I The young people who frequent our wine shop are greatly interest and often very passionate about wine. They are able to find information on any label and when they know the winery, they deepen their research. This is a completely different skill, thankfully, from the one provided by wine academies! WHAT DO YOU DO TO ATTRACT THEM: AWe have a very busy calendar of events and in the via Goito and via Cernaia shops we work to engage our customers by showcasing our selections and exchanging points of view.
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STORIES
NAPLES ENOTECA MERCADANTE STEFANO CONTINISIO MILLENNIALS CLIENTELE: Interest surrounding wine has grown exponentially in the last 15 years, I say this because I remember that from 2000 onwards there was constant request to attend courses for Sommeliers, which we have been offering in the last 20 years. Young people are an important part of our clientele. WHAT DO THEY BUY/HOW MUCH DO THEY SPEND: We research wineries that can satisfy both palate and pocket. We realized that it's possible to drink well without spending a lot. The most requested price point is certainly 10-15 euro. HOW KNOWLEDGEABLE ARE THEY: Our young customers are curious and attentive to new tasting experiences. WHAT DO YOU DO TO ATTRACT THEM: We organize educational events, pairing the right foods, and we also try to make notoriously unattractive wines become attractive, those with a very high sugar content, that are therefore easy to approach.
TAORMINA (ME) CASAMATTA RUGGERO LOMBARDO MILLENNIALS CLIENTELE: Contrary to expectations, millennials are a large percentage of our clientele. We operate in a tourist resort area tend-
THE CLIENT: Federica Di Grazia, 29, architecture major "I often buy white wines because I find them more interesting and complex, and I find they offer more diversity and are more fun. Lately I am also passionate about the whites who are aged in oak and that are aged a bit longer. I usually drink with friends during lunch, dinner or even during aperitivo with friends and maybe during the weekend. When possible, I participate in tastings organized by wineries or associations. I attended tastings at the Vitigno Italia event, and in many events promoted by the European sommelier school. This year I will go to Vinitaly in Verona for the first time. I approached the world of wine rather organically and randomly thanks to my family's business. My father has been working in beverage distribution and provision for the last 30 years for bars and restaurants. Despite studying, I have always helped out in the store and slowly I started reading the labels of the wines, and finding info online. I was lucky enough to be supported both morally and financially by my parents who gave me carte blanche in the transformation or rather the creation of the family wine shop which is now my little world."
ing towards luxury, when we opened in 2016 we mainly focused on this target. But having many friends of the same age who visit our store has created an ever-growing circle of local young people attracted by our weekly alternative music concerts. WHAT DO THEY BUY/HOW MUCH DO THEY SPEND: The majority lean
THE CLIENT: Marzia Battaglia, 29, maître d’hotel “The wines I buy most often are reds and I prefer full-bodied wines such as cabernet sauvignon and Syrah especially from the Valle del Belice, but being a lover of red also paired with fish, I have to say that in recent years I have greatly re-evaluated Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Frappato in purity and also Pinot Noir. When do I mostly go to the wine shop? For bottles I bring at dinners with family or friends and occasionally to buy gifts. I drink more wine when I'm out of the house, when I eat out or when I go with friends to spend the evening in a wine bar. Every year I attend the Contrade dell'Etna event where all the producers of the Etna area present their wines and even allow participants to taste vat tests. In addition, every now and then, we organize among friends cellar visits to deepen knowledge of work in the wineries.” .
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towards the most affordable products we offer, so spending an average of 20 euro. These tend to be ready to drink wines that are also very good, which we rotate often to avoid customers getting bored, and based on our availability. Both tourists and locals tend to prefer Sicilian wines. HOW KNOWLEDGEABLE ARE THEY: Among our local customers there is fair amount of wine knowledge because most of them are employed in different ways in the dining business. Younger tourists tend to discover local wines with curiosity but the percentage of professionals is less. WHAT DO YOU DO TO ATTRACT THEM: We hosted AIS events for first and second level sommelier courses and we organize tastings and meetings with wine producers. Of course, meetings are open to all yet there's a high percentage of young people among participants.
A SURVEY OF ITALIAN MILLENNIALS
PORTO CESAREO (LE) ENOTECA SAPORI D’ARNEO ILARIA DONATEO MILLENNIALS CLIENTELE: A good part of our customers is less than 40 years old, both Italian and foreign. On average, the target is mediumhigh and vacationing in the area. WHAT DO THEY BUY/HOW MUCH DO THEY SPEND: In general, they
are interested in discovering typical Salento grape varieties (negroamaro and primitivo, above all), but we also strongly promote rosé from negroamaro, being our area ideal for this wine type. Also traditional and charmat method bubbles are greatly successful. Usually 50% of our young customers spend less than 10 euro; 20% under 20 euro and 30% under 40 euro.
HOW KNOWLEDGEABLE ARE THEY: Our young customers have an average good knowledge of wine, but unfortunately know little about Apulian grapes. We also had someone ask us for... prosecco made from negroamaro! WHAT DO YOU DO TO ATTRACT THEM: We organize tastings in wine shops with producers; in the summer, we also organize theme dinners with producers within the wineries.
THE CLIENT: Gaia Muci, 34, specialized in vineyard landscaping "I generally like to buy wines from areas particularly suited to vine growing and I choose types and grapes typical of that area. I prefer buying wines from small and little-known producers. I always hope to find strong territorial identity and expression of the native grape, sometimes at the expense of stylistic perfection. Normally, I buy wines to give as gifts or to take to dinner with friends at the wine shop, but I definitely prefer drinking at home. I also often attend tastings, among which I like particularly like the Slow Wine presentation. Furthermore, I go to Vinitaly and attend the VinNatur event at Villa Favorita. I have also been a Slow Food member for several years: that's where my passion first started. I then chose to study Viticulture and Oenology, turning my passion into my profession. I do not have a strict position on food-wine pairing. Let me explain: if I'm at an evening focused on food and wine pairing, then the perfect match is essential for the success of the evening; but if my favourite wine––Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì made by Conterno Fantino––does not perfectly match all the dishes, it's certainly not a tragedy!".
CAGLIARI CUCINA.EAT ALESSANDRA MEDDI
THE CLIENT: Riccardo Mureddu, 30, collaborates in an attorney’s office
MILLENNIALS CLIENTELE: Our place offers both wine and dining. This allows us to have a diverse clientele both in terms of taste and age. But surely a good 40% is made up of young people under 35 who also attend the courses that we regularly host here. WHAT DO THEY BUY/HOW MUCH DO THEY SPEND: They usually spend between 15 and 20 euro, but the interesting thing is that they don't only buy Sardinia wines, their curiosity also pushes them to request and buy extra-regional bottles. HOW KNOWLEDGEABLE ARE THEY: The youngsters who come to visit us have great expertise and curiosity that drives them to learn and experiment. They also ask for advice on what to buy and in general also on the world of wine. WHAT DO YOU DO TO ATTRACT THEM: For some time now we have been organizing tastings with different local wineries every month, allowing our customers to taste their labels. Then regularly we schedule amateur wine appreciation classes and light thematic tastings divided according to areas.
"I prefer purchasing complex wines with structure, that have the ability to evolve over time, both in the bottle and in the glass because they always have something more to tell, just like people. I visit the wine shop whenever I can, without waiting for a particular occasion. Just like any day is good to take care of myself, likewise every day it is good for enjoying a glass of good wine. When do I drink? Usually when dining out, or when I enjoy aperitif, sipping on good wine. At home I rarely drink wine during the week. The events I attended, including to be more educated on the subject, are limited to tasting events in restaurants and wine bars in the areas of Cagliari and Sulcis, where there are still few wine businesses. Some of these are really committed, active and able to spread the culture of quality drinking. I approached the world of wine driven by innate curiosity towards beauty and good flavours. With the improvement of my taste, I started attending events where wine was at the core of the commercial offer. That's where I met people that besides being knowledgeable in wine, also knew how to talk about wine. These were the people who pushed me to deepen my knowledge of the subject, so much so that I started to create my own personal cellar and enrolled in the Italian Sommelier Association Course to obtain the Sommelier certification.".
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STORIES
MILLENNIALS & WINE. 10 SOMMELIERS AND THEIR OPINIONS by Antonio Paolini Sommeliers are the first to introduce customers to wine in restaurants. And, given the large number of types of restaurants that have developed recently, these professionals often find themselves wine to younger people who normally flee from excessive formalities or rituals that they refuse and don't feel they belong to. We have identified 10 sommeliers that work in very different environments: from Michelin star venues to gourmet fryers. We asked them all the same three questions, and we recorded their answers. 1. How do you see the relationship between wine and young people? 2. How has this relationship changed since you first started? 3. What do you suggest to bring millennials back to true appreciation of wine?
MICHELE “OSTE” ALESIANI Osteria Pepe Nero – Cupra Marittima (AP) - 3356115534 1. In my place, where customers can bring their own bottles, and frequented by lots of young people, some bring wines I am unfamiliar with. This means that the market is immense; and that thanks to the web younger people make discoveries that used to cost us years. Then, of course, real practice in the field is something else. 2. To taste particular wines, you had to go to the source. That's
VALENTINA BERTINI Terrazza Gallia – Milan 0267853514 - terrazzagallia.com 1. There is confusion, fuelled by the deluge of the so-called "natural" wines. We have come a long way over the years. Now I fear there will be a recession. There is a climate that's more millenarian than millennial. Respecting nature is gospel. But "natural" is the wrong term. The resurgence of wines that stink, and the claim that they are the right ones, is a misunderstanding that must be honestly clarified
how I discovered the wines of Chave, or the Cornas of Thierry Allemand (today a myth) or the first experiments with zero sulphur added in Paris at "Ange Vin 20." At the time all these wines were poured without much of today's pompous attitude (it was more like, "Hey, try this one!"). The clientele was very young and very curious. 3. What we are versed in should be transmitted without arrogance and in the name of pleasure. And yet trusting them. Because some of these young people know, as I said at the beginning, unsuspecting things, they have immense passion and are the best
"apostles" among their peers. An example? Simone Roberti, got his Philosophy major in Milan, and returned not far from here, in Petritoli, a hilltop town with 2,000 inhabitants, to open his Cantina Antisociale. A place where folks can eat well and incredible wines are poured. On the strength of his 27 years, he has that same desire to discover we had in our time, plus all the instruments we didn’t have back then. When properly motivated (this is our responsibility) millenials are just like Simone: a fortunate mix between a cyber geek and an old-school innkeeper…
with young people. A good start is introducing them to the really good wine producers (such as Valentini and Valle Reale) who work with total respect for the environment, but never wearing the "natural" mask. 2. I started out attending crowded courses, very low average age, and lots of enthusiasm. Now we're in a whole other phase. More mature sure, but more elusive. And tastes have changed. Mine included. Like many before me, I started from Gewurtz. Then we moved on to something else... 3. Wine snobbery should be absolutely avoided: the idea that only drinking expensive
wines counts, is deadly. We need to intrigue younger people on the sociality of wine, on its seductive aspect. Break the vicious cycle of those who respond by pretending to know things about wine, and who preach non-existent dogmas. We need to guarantee a more accurate oenological formation in hotel management school, and recognize bigger value to dining room staff. My initiation wine? Verdicchio. It's immediate, recognizable. But also Trebbianos have taken off. And both have an honest price. Let's not forget that being young means also counting pennies.
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A SURVEY OF ITALIAN MILLENNIALS
ALFREDO BUONANNO Kresios - Telese Terme (BN) 0824940723 - kresios.com 1. Training can help, and not only professional level training: wine and its culture are a national treasure. For me, even dedicated websites are too caste-like. An engineering student may chance upon us... and who knows if he/she will ever come back. 2. I've seen a big change in the last 2-3 years. TV matters. There is more and more talk of dining, food, and cooks: and a little light also shines on wine.
LUCA GARDINI Osteria Casa di Mare – Forlì 054320836 - casadimare.info 1. The relationship between wines and young people is a fantastic symbiosis! It is an open front, a philosophy of which I consider myself a forerunner. Both with the wine window open on Gazzetta dello Sport, and with the concept of POP Wine. Wine is, and must be, an attraction for young people; they are the ones who give our world the opportunity to expand with word of mouth, with a
GIACOMO GIRONI Al Mercato – Milano 0287237167 - al-mercato.it 1. Like it or not, the entry level wine of almost all young people is "natural wine". It's a way to enter, but skips a nodal passage: learning about big wineries and "historic" wines that have made Italy and France great. Maybe later this curiosity will come: especially for those who will work in the world of wine (a growing tribe). 2. The relationship between wine and young people has changed a lot! Just as the whole context. When I started there were only
ALBERTO PIRAS Aimo e Nadia – Milan 02416886 - aimoenadia.com 1. The relationship between young people and wine is growing: it's alive, stimulating, and very participated. A beautiful thing, given that it's (my work and, after all, that of my peers) also being attentive to a fundamental piece of our national culture. The attention of young people is twofold: there is interest for some historical producers of
So there is a more widespread feeling, that's however superficial. But younger people go out to restaurants more now. Once, a 25 year old at Kresios was true rarity, now it is much more frequent and normal. Now we even have larger groups of younger customers. 3. Having someone who can advise (without invading) wherever wine is served. Not just in high-end places. If I go to the mechanic or the tire repair guy, it's to solve a problem. I go for their competence in their craft. So if I love cars, I discuss with them, I commit myself... But if the person pouring my wine knows less than
me... What's missing is problem-solving in the places where younger people go to drink wine; aperitivo, street food, lounge dining... In France it's different. In our coffee bars, that staff has trouble even explaining coffee. It's important to propose the right things to those who are just starting out. Wines of freshness, immediacy. Examples? I would say Pinot Noir minus the Burgundy prices. But something is moving here too: I'm finding Aglianicos full of fruit, acidity and yet also great drinkability. Not waiting for years just to start talking about it...
direct line with their peers, promoting the knowledge of Italian wines. 2. I wouldn't talk about drastic change over the years, but rather about the evolution of a relationship: young people have opened up to the world of wine, and social media has allowed and encouraged this exchange. Everything must still achieve perfect harmony, and wine must be even more an easy, everyday thing. I'm talking about sensitivity, approach, and conviviality. There's still a lot to be done: the goals achieved are only an input to continue on the path of communication without pro-
fessor style self-referentiality, but rather in a cheerful and immediate way. 3. There is still a kind of fear on the part of young people (but not only) towards the world of wine: dictated by non-knowledge. But snob, conceited attitudes, reinforces fear. We must break this trend by increasing direct contact with young people. Thinking with humility that every wine is and can be fantastic for someone, that each of us has our own palate: a palate that must be respected, cultivated, seduced; and not overly regulated or overwhelmed.
one course and only one AIS. A "church" with 90 people attending, 60 of which were operators and 30 enthusiasts. Now lawyers, managers, housewives attend courses everywhere and want more and more targeted topics: bubbles, "sweet wines", biodynamic... Hopefully they'll actually specialize. But they know a lot less about the fundamentals. 3. Young people buy more wine than they used to. But the market has shattered. The web helps, but it also makes a mess. We could once choose between 10 Chianti, today we have a choice of 150... I would take care of the economic aspects, mark ups, especially. Why is it that
10-euro GDO wines served in restaurants, in a certain way and from a real cellar, prices are jacked up to 25 euro? And you're actually not even being ripped off. The real rip-off is the 6 euro wine glass in the fake bar à vin poured from a bottle that was originally paid 4 and that yields 8 servings. I would aim facilitating purchases: in France the GDO appellation also includes small local producers and well-tended "cave" areas. Finally "deb" wines: not too tannic, not too much alcohol, good acidity. And metamorphic. Capable, that is, of changing in the glass, wines full of intrigue. Wines that make people talk.
"lighthouse designations," and there is great interest towards the less known, provided they are "natural" labels. Equally important is the attention paid to Piedmont and native grape varieties. 2. Once there was definitely more interest in grapes: Bolgheri and Supertuscans in general. But now people are more open to things perceived as radically ours. In any case, I try to propose a wine list and a homogeneous choice, which covers all the regions and their most interesting areas. The other change I see is in regards
to bubbles. Now even among millennials bubbly is enjoyed throughout the whole meal. 3. Associations dedicated to the socialization of wine are increasingly numerous. What would help is to have among their trainers more younger people in the teaching ranks. Lower the ages of teachers to make the experiences and their methods of exchange more “contemporary”, then mixing them with the ever-precious ones of, let’s say, "older" and certainly well experienced professionals.
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STORIES
MARCO REITANO La Pergola dell’Hotel Rome Cavalieri – Rome – 0635092152 romecavalieri.it/lapergola 1. As far as I see, the interest of young people is always growing; they are frequenting more and more restaurants like ours, they have a stronger point of view and choice than in the past, they go out for dinner with clear ideas, but at the same time they're open to new experiences and tastings, especially if they meet the right interlocutor.
FRANCESCO ROMANAZZI Pastella – Rome – 3334795167 1. I'm seeing more curiosity and awareness in young people. It's very interesting for those who make wine and for the territory. A personalization that's more attentive to human history than to technique compare to how it happened before. But it's clear that these are bi-directional dynamics. This is a result that also depends on how I set-up my work, and how I communicate the wine
GIANNI SINESI Reale - Castel di Sangro (AQ) 086469382 – ristorantereale.it 1. The young peoples' approach to wine is tainted by subjection of the fashionable "natural" trend fostered by many young colleagues: very little research, laziness, and arranged wine lists, buying whatever is deemed "supernatural." We need more than that: finding out what the world of wine really is, from the conventional onwards. That is why I tell young consumers to be less
MATTEO ZAPPILE Pagliaccio – Rome – 0668809595 ristoranteilpagliaccio.com 1. I see so many young people skewed towards organic, biodynamic, natural wines: in a word, opposite of what their parents drink. A challenge in the bottle: often if the dad wants a Super Tuscan, his son/daughter will ask for a supernatural wine. It is a rite of passage that can lead to passion and more global knowledge. 2. The last 15 years have
In parallel, wine lists grow in assortment and variety of proposal. And certainly there is a return to the palate, a growth of taste. 2. In 23 years I have seen many changes. The most conspicuous is the average age of our clientele: now the presence of very young people who ask their parents to come here is normal. And they are often the ones who choose the wine for everyone. Of course traditional and specialized media and new apps have contributed strongly to this phase. 3. I am one of those convinced that
the food and beverage culture should be taught in school, from elementary onwards. If stimulated and "trained", plus also helped by the opportunities offered by the growing number of events on wine, by the possibility of rapid transit, and finally by the web, of which they are skilled users (and all that the web allows and promises) new millennials could burn through the stages and long timetables once needed to consolidate their wine culture. In short, the beautiful hard work that my generation had to endure...
I have chosen. 2. Over the years there has been change, and today it is conspicuous. Many young people are increasingly aware of the fact that wine is not an expensive gadget for adults with big wallets. You can play and try interesting things even with a young person's wallet. For example, less conventional sparkling wines; the wines of areas and regions up to now considered marginal, less prized, that cost less and offer surprises. 3. I believe that what's already being done must be done more organically: bringing
wine to places frequented by young people (bars, social centres, bookshops) focusing on non-standardized labels, wines with personal stories behind them that can intrigue and lead to more participated drinking. This is already happening, but with craft beer (often made by young people) and with the world of cocktails. And since there is now a fresh new generation of young wine producers and artisans, with real and fascinating stories, those who want to attract millennials must definitely focus on them.
charmed and seek out their own true taste. To give less attention to the web, and trust their palate and true professionals. Here, 80% of our customers ask us to pair the food and wine. They understand that it's the best way, at least at the beginning, to discover and enhance both Niko's dishes and what they'll drink. 2. Perhaps once there was a greater sense of discovery, exploration, and hunger for more global knowledge. On the other hand, quality drinking is now more transversal and widespread. The same "natural" wine factor, which is overused, opens
to comparison. There is also more wine enjoyed for pre-dinner drinks, and in less formal places. And helping more discussion. 3. The human factor is key. In wine this mainly means producer and territory. So why reduce everything to consumption and web searches. Drinking a wine with the person who made the wine, in it's place of origin, is paramount. It's a bit like wooing someone live vs. in an online chat... The wine I love the most is Brunello di Montalcino: if I had to make someone fall in love with me, I'd start from there.
been of huge change. First it was beer and super-spirits that dominated the market, especially in enjoyed in disco ambiance. Now even in nightclubs, young people order bubbles. And wine also enters the scene because the widespread concept (even for the "natural" trend) of it being less harmful, or more salubrious than other spirits, including beer. A defensive approach, but that can translate into real interest in the culture of wine. 3. We must foster wine culture, but not with closed and sectarian wine tastings. Large trade fairs
like Vinitaly or Merano should organize direct and reserved access, an "assisted" space for 18+ year students of every school. And start them tasting wines. But then there should be National Heritage level education: a course that focuses on the districts, food, and wine, on everything that is produced and worthy. It would certainly spark interest and respect. Too many young people despise or refuse wine because they have no idea what's behind it, or how it's made. And how much it's tied to the very soul of our country.
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Savour the landscape, too. Tenute SalvaTerra has been awarded the international “Best of Wine Tourism” award 2018 for the “Architecture and Landscapes” category. Architecture, landscape and wine are intricately linked, as all three are the result of human thought and work. This time, we have not won recognition for our wines, but for our commitment to nurturing and promoting a major wine region and its produce.
The stunning natural beauty of Valpolicella awaits you.
ABU DHABI, DUBAI, DOHA. DINING AMID DESERT, TRADITION AND SKYSCRAPERS
As soon as you set foot in Abu Dhabi, it’s immediately clear that you are in a city in progress. Nothing that has been here will remain. Only cuisine is measured with a rooted Emirate tradition and an insatiable curiosity towards other gastronomic cultures
words by Antonella De Santis – infographics by Alessandro Naldi
STORIES
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earls, dates, camel milk and spices. For centuries, the only commercial activities in Au Dhabi were pearls and date harvesting. The 200plus natural islands of the Gulf were the ideal environment for oysters and the pearl trade was - along with fishing - one of the few sources of livelihood for coastal populations. Then came WWI, the Great Depression of the 1920s, the initial pearls cultivated by Japan: in short after WWII the local economy, based on this trade, crumbled. Very difficult years followed. In this economy dates - present in many varieties - occupied a paramount place for the inhabitants of the hinterland; even today this indispensable food resource is at the core of a lively local trade and holds an enormous symbolic value: they are celebrated in Liwa, in the region of Al Dhafra and often offered as a sign of welcome together with fragrant Arab coffee, UNESCO world heritage of humanity. Harvesting dates, like it is for pearls, follows evocative rituals. Equally evocative is the vivacious camel market in Al Alain, and the camel beauty pageant held in Al Dhafra. These animals - precious “ships of the desert” - offer edible meat and milk, fundamental allies
for the Bedouins who could soon enter the European markets. The taste of camel milk is similar to cow’s milk, and is the base for many local cheeses, ice cream, chocolate, even a beauty soap. The milk is also consumed fresh, often flavoured with thyme (Haleeb Bosh). Central to the local diet are spices, witnessing the commercial exchanges that defined these areas: saffron, cardamom, turmeric and cinnamon are practically in every local dish, often together with the loumi (sun-dried black lemon) with its bitter and sour taste, balanced by ghee (clarified butter). But the modern cuisine is much more than that. THE EMIRATES’ GRAND RACE United Arab Emirates are running full throttle. In Abu Dhabi everything changes quickly and little is preserved, save for the unconditional homage to Sheikh Al Zayed. Much of the current welfare of this territory is owed to him, before him poor, and where impervious nature - however fascinating - dictated harsh rules: semi-nomadism was the way to survive at temperatures that reach 50°C. It was during this period that people crossed the country pushing towards the border with Oman, in search of
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WINE: PROHIBITION AND FUN FACTS. ITALIAN WINE PRODUCERS HERE APRIL 25 THANKS TO GAMBERO ROSSO Bans and restrictions and two main stars. Wine in the UAE is a complex matter, is a complex matter, limited by well-defined stakes, and which clearly highlights the ambiguity of the market which on the one hand severely limits and punishes offenders, and on the other continues to expand with double-digit annual growth. It is forbidden to drink alcohol in the street and in any public place, while hotel facilities are free zones. In the United Arab Emirates, increasing tourism pushes wine consumption, 80% takes place in hotels and related restaurants. Beyond the tourist facilities, and a few wine clubs where bottle prices are skyrocketing, it is forbidden to buy alcohol, or transport it, save for foreigners or residents of at least 21 years, holding an ad hoc license. A unique alcoholic license in the world. With extremely high taxation. A 50% tariff is in effect, plus a city tax and a further 30% tax on the final price. If you add mark-ups, an Italian wine that starts at 10-euro in the cellar will jump to 120 euros on the wine list. A bottle of Sassicaia or Ornellaia easily exceeds the 2,000-euro price tag. But all this does not stop sales. In spite of the not very refreshing climate, wine lists target rich and mature reds, focusing on medium-high price ranges with Tuscany and Piedmont in the lead among Italian labels. In distribution, there are only two stars sharing the market: African Eastern and Maritime Mercantile International. Their selections over the years have grown a lot, in step with the wine lists of restaurants that have attracted great professionals able to serve, in luxurious and impeccable settings, bottles that often are not even found in the countries of origin. France leads in sales, but Italy follows closely behind. For the third consecutive year, Gambero Rosso World Tour will arrive in Dubai: the event is scheduled for April 25th. — Lorenzo Ruggeri
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10 MUST-SEE ATTRACTIONS IN ABU DHABI
ABU DHABI, DUBAI, DOHA
1 The new Louvre – designed by Jean Nouvel inaugurated on 11 November 2017, under the dome reminiscent of the palm trees of the oases, and in the 55 Medina-like buildings – houses over 600 works (half acquired and the rest on loan). The museum is the first of a series with great architectures (designed by the likes of Ando, Forster, Hadid) that in the coming years will be the Cultural District of Saadiyat Island.
2 The Qasr al Hosn Museum traces the history of Abu Dhabi since its village origin. Evocative and very opulent, it’s a surprising monument to the history, traditions and customs of this part of the world.
3 Qasr Al Muwaiji hosts a permanent exhibition on the life and works of Sheik Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan.
4 The Al Jahili Fort in Al Ain hosts the wonderful permanent photo exhibition of the Rub Al Khali desert crossing that Wilfred Thesiger, called by locals Mubarak bin London, carried out in 1940.
5 In the incredibly lush oasis of Al Alain there is a very interesting and well-organized multimedia educational exhibit. The oasis is also worth a visit due to its luxuriant beauty.
6 The Observation Deck at 300 at the 74th floor of Tower 2 of Etihad Towers offers breath-taking views of the city and islands below.
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the shelter that the mountain was able to grant. The heat and nature of the desert prevented any kind of plant to grow, except around oases like the one in Al Ain, the green city. It is difficult, looking at the futuristic city skyline, to imagine Abu Dhabi 50 years ago, before oil. It was the early 60s and since then everything has changed. In 1971 the United Arab Emirates were born, roads and schools, homes and hospitals were built. The well being tore the population from harsh conditions and a kind of well-liked oligarchy transformed the country with vigorous construction activity.
4 1. The desert dunes that begin immediately behind the cities 2. Dates and tea, offered to guests as a form of welcome 3. A chicken dish in tomato sauce accompanied by white rice, traditional Emirates preparation called deyay nashef. 4. A dish of fareed, stewed meat with vegetables and spices Opening: Abu Dhabi skyline with its modern skyscrapers overlooking the sea: less futuristic than Dubai, yet always evocative
Ferrari World is the mega theme park dedicated to Ferrari, with the F1 Yas Marina circuit, the world’s fastest roller coaster (250 km/h) and the world’s highest loopde-loop (superlatives are a constant in Abu Dhabi).
8 Pearl Journey: the boat ride in the canals surrounded by mangroves allows participants to discover the evocative tradition of pearl harvesting. Along with the stories, on the boat ride, even the opening of the oysters: those found are a souvenir that can be kept and brought home.
9 A visit to the extraordinary Sheikh Zayed mosque is essential, with its 82 domes and 4 minarets, inlaid marble columns, decorated carpets and chandeliers: even in busy times this is an oasis of peace and light (attention to dress code to be met scrupulously).
10 The Empty Quarter, aka the desert. A must to truly experience Abu Dhabi. Whether it’s a few hours or for several days, one cannot go to Abu Dhabi without experiencing, even for just a short while, the incredible atmosphere amid the dunes.
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8 VERY EMIRATES DISHES AND 8 VERY ITALIAN PAIRINGS
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Rubyan Mujafaf
Salty cooked and sundried baby shrimp is a very popular appetizer in every season. This is a dish that’s good on any occasion, from appetizers to snacks. In this case, bubbly is the name of the game. We did not reap from the more classic areas of the North, however. In the South, Etna produces a great Traditional Method from nerello mascalese grapes. Murgo Brut - Scammacca del Murgo – murgo.it
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Thareed (or Fareed)
This is one of the most consumed dishes at home and one of the mains during the month of Ramadan. It is a unique dish made of stewed meat (chicken or other meat), vegetables and rgaag (typical pancake thin bread baked on a round plate) with meat broth. We thought of a red of great elegance, fragrant and fresh, with a nice acidity that manages to clean the palate. In the Tuscan Apennines, the quality of Pinot Noir is well established. This is the wine for this dish. Pinot Nero 2014 – Podere della Civettaja
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Moadam rubyan
A fragrant dish typical of the coastal areas, made with rice and shrimp. It uses fresh and dry coriander, loumi, turmeric, cinnamon and cumin. For a dish typical of the coastal areas, a coastal wine fits best. We chose a rich, voluptuous, war yet sapid white from Sardinia; a great Vermentino, dry yet from a late harvest. Vermentino di Sardegna Canayli VT 2016 Cantina di Gallura - cantinagallura.net
TOURISM AND FOOD Dubai has established itself as a tourist destination even before Abu Dhabi, including for its gastronomic offer, so much so that many great chefs have planted their flag here. And although Abu Dhabi is the crossroads of the international jet set, it still retains a link with its traditions also within an enormous gastronomic variety. There are (still) few stars, except for Enrico Bartolini. But things here change quickly and it is not difficult to foresee a massive and imminent arrival of big names. Also because in the futuristic cityscape, cuisine plays a fundamental role as passport to the world: in hotels kitchens are cuisines of
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Marguga
Meat stew flavoured with spices and loumi, enriched by Marguga, a bread similar to Italian piadine, mixed with meat with sauce. For Marguga we thought of a red from Southern Italy. Not too structured, however, but fresh and fragrant, played more on drinkability and fluency than on structure. We went to Campania, in the Campi Flegrei, and we chose a great Piedirosso. Ideal with our dish, it accompanies it to the end without ever overpowering it. Campi Flegrei Piedirosso 2015 Agnanum - agnanum.it
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Semak magli
Semak Magli is a recipe of fish seasoned with spices, floured and then fried that can be accompanied with rice and enriched with ghee, but is also used in other preparations for which skin and bones are removed. Another dish, another Traditional Method. Because where there is fried food, bubbles are always a good idea. For the Semak Magli, our choice falls on a territory that has now become a guarantee of quality all over the world. The type is Satèn, silky and velvet smooth Franciacorta. Franciacorta Soul Satèn 2009 Contadi Castaldi - contadicastaldi.it
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Harees
This is one of the most popular dishes of the Emirates and the Gulf, a holiday soup made with meat and wheat that’s also eaten during Ramadan. The wheat is combined with the boiled meat after a night of soaking. When cooked, the wheat is crushed and completed with ghee.
half the planet. And the clientele is indifferent to the local cuisine (very few natives here: 500 thousand out of 3 million inhabitants) and the international one. Abu Dhabi is a gastronomic Tower of Babel: big brands (for example Zuma, Marco Pierre White steakhouse and grill, or La Petite Maison) and lots of variety, yet traditional cuisine is not neglected, also thanks to the Emirati Cuisine & Hospitality Capacity Building, local cuisine promotion efforts in 4 and 5-star hotels. This is how gastronomic cosmopolitanism respectful of identity, similar to the Arab one, but rich in Indian suggestions is created. After all, the spice route passed through the
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The multitude of grape varieties, wines and different types produced in Italy does not deter us even from the perfect combination with Harees soup. Lambrusco Reggiano is the wine for us. It does not cover the flavours; it is aromatically refined and leaves the mouth clean, fresh and ready for another spoonful. Reggiano Lambrusco Concerto 2016 Ermete Medici e figli - medici.it
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Lgeimat
Flat sweets made with flour, yeast, eggs, cardamom and saffron that are fried and then drizzled with honey, syrup or molasses. These are a Ramadan specialty, also enjoyed during other festive occasions. Malvasia made by La Stoppa is sweet, warm, soft and greatly aromatic, without ever being cloying and always elegant thanks to its freshness and sapid finish. The aromas of honey and sweet spices are the perfect match with this wine. Malvasia Passito Vigna del Volta 2010 La Stoppa - astoppa.it
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Balaleeet
This is a dessert made with small noodles and ghee (clarified butter) sugar, cardamom and saffron, dominated by a kind of omelette often enriched with onions. Balaleeet is a very peculiar dish. It is not easy in these cases to combine the right wine, but we (think) we have succeeded with this great Moscato. Hailing from Piedmont this can only be a Moscato d’Asti. Paolo Saracco’s is truly a delight, but above all it goes very well with our dessert. Moscato d’Asti 2016 – Paolo Saracco paolosaracco.it
– Giuseppe Carrus
Gulf. This is a cuisine that varies according to region: there’s various types of meat (camel, chicken, mutton or lamb), and extended cooking times for coastal fish (shark is typical). Arabic bread is served hot with mezzeh (selection of starters of Middle Eastern origin in which hummus is the undisputed protagonist). The local diet includes lots of rice, some salads, soups and different types of bread. Speaking of all this is Khulood Atiq, star chef, Food Ambassador for the Tourist Board of Abu Dhabi and author of Sarareed - the cuisine of the Emirates from the sea to the desert, the first book giving written form to a purely oral gastronomic culture.
ARAB COFFEE AND DATES, THE TYPICAL NOMADIC QATAR WELCOME If you arrive in Qatari land and are not offered Arabic coffee and dates as a welcome, then you are not actually in Qatar. The symbolic expression of hospitality is strongly rooted in local culture, as it was in the nomadic society of the past. The area is surrounded by desert and limited agriculture, but the Qatar cuisine can still be very varied thanks to local fish and the agri-food import that covers 85% of local needs. Over the years, local dishes have been influenced by the cuisine of the Indian subcontinent, Iran, East and North Africa: an example of this is machboos, a stew of fish or mutton accompanied by spicy rice served with yogurt. The same applies to gouzi, roast lamb with rice and dried fruit, or boiled stuffed sheep served with seasoned rice. Meals usually end with local dates, fresh fruit and desserts such as halwa or umm ali. To witness this variety and contamination, it’s enough to visit the Souq Waqif and get lost in the labyrinth of alleys to get a taste of the most typical traditional culture: small spice shops, seasonal fruits and local crafts. Here it’s possible to choose between Iranian, Turkish and Persian restaurants each containing the many flavour identities of this part of the city. The lively gastronomic scene is also on offer at the Qatar International Food Festival that annually (now in its ninth edition, held between March and April) brings on the stage a real taste of Arab and Middle Eastern cuisine, with a hundred producers and cooks from all over the world who, in the heart of the city, promote their gastronomic culture. Also Dubai has its culinary festival with its purely street food character now in its fifth edition (every year at the end of February). The event showcases international dishes prepared in the moment on coloured food trucks, or in appropriate structures used as kitchens for the occasion. Dubai is evidently the culinary capital of the Middle East with majestic cocktail bars on top of skyscrapers, trendy coffee shops, gourmet shops, markets, street food and restaurants run by European chefs (many Italians), but also a happy place that’s shaping local creativity.. Emirates natives are only 10% of the population. All others are immigrants who occupy the most diverse sectors: just visit Alserkal Avenue, the beating heart of the artistic district of Al Quoz, to realize the mix of cultures and expressions present. Instead, scattered around the city are the great Italian restaurants, such as Enrico Bartolini’s, Heinz Beck’s and Niko Romito’s, the chef is at the helm in the kitchen of the Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, plus Pinchiorri with The Artisan and Alfredo Russo at Vivaldi. This is an unstoppable machine preparing for Expo 2020. — Giovanni Angelucci
ABU DHABI, DUBAI, DOHA
5 5. Date harvest in a farm specialized in the area’s symbolic fruit 6. Arabic coffee, similar to the Turkishstyle coffee is traditionally sipped together, in a rituals of friendship and welcome that refer to the culture of nomadism always present despite the often ultramodern urban planning of large metropolitan areas
6
BIG HOTEL CUISINE Most restaurants are in large hotels, as the synthesis of a luxury that is hard to imagine in the West. Just think of the Emirates Palace where high colonnades and huge halls define a space of refined opulence (definitely worth visiting), famous for its camel milk ice cream with golden flecks and for the camel burgers. The area employs 1,200 people in 14 restaurants among which is Italian Mezzaluna and Emirates Mezlai in which chef Ali Salem Ebdowa elegantly redesigns local cuisine. Among the most interesting dishes are lamb madfoun, lamb meat cooked in banana leaves to recreate the traditional soil-covered cooking method, while at Jumeirah the Li Beirut restaurant offers contemporary Leba-
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EMIRATES TRADITIONAL CUISINE: 3 PLACES IN ABU DHABI
1 Mezlai A refined venue located within the luxurious Emirates Palace, with famous chef Ali’s cuisine kempinski.com
2 Al Mrzab Very humble Emirate’s restaurant frequented by locals almrzab.com almrzab.com
3 Meylas Truck To try local street food ti meylas.com
STORIES
nese cuisine with light European suggestions. Holding the Italian flag is chef Enrico Bartolini, at the helm of Roberto’s in Abu Dhabi and Dubai, where he chiselled an articulated proposal: the inevitable triad - pizza, pasta, risotto in classic recipes - alongside the chef’s most iconic dishes, “With Francesco Guarracino, head chef in Abu Dhabi, we also have fun experimenting with some new things during special evenings.” The chef outlines a cuisine that embodies the most recognizable values of “Italianness” without losing sight of the contemporary twist, also intercepting local tastes, “for example, for slow-cooked meats, we use round and spicy flavours”. Importing
products is not simple, but for some, such as cheese and olive oil, it is mandatory. “We need local contacts - says Cipriani, who has offices in the two major cities of the Emirates. Some products come from Italy, for others like fish or meat we have trusted suppliers here.” The most popular dishes are carpaccio, tagliolini and risotto. “We have the same cuisine, the same equipment and an Italian staff trained at Harry’s Bar.” There is also young chef Lorenzo Paiato who at Larte of Alta Gamma group - which also has spaces in Milan and Dubai - offers genuine and very comforting cuisine, including fried calamari and pasta alla Norma, located steps away from the museum district.
GOURMET EMIRATES Marco Pierre White steakhouse and grill Opening: 2009 - Cuisine: steak house - sofitel.com
Cut by Wolfang Puck Opening: winter 2017 - Cuisine: american and steak house Chef: Wolfang Puck - Executive chef: Ben Small morganshotelgroup.com
Roberto’s Opening: october 2016 - Cuisine: italian - Chef: Enrico Bartolini Executive chef: Francesco Guarracino - robertos.ae - thegalleria.ae
IDAM Opening: november 2012 - Cuisine: french-mediterranean with middle east influences - Chef: Alain Ducasse Executive chef: Damien Leroux e Pierre Marty - alain-ducasse. com
Nobu Opening: april 2015 - Cuisine: contemporary japanese, with southamerican and arabian influenze- Chef: Nobu Matsuhisa noburestaurants.com Gordon Ramsay Opening: may 2012 - Cuisine: mediterranean Chef: Gordon Ramsay - gordonramsaydoha.com Opal by Gordon Ramsay Opening: may 2012 - Cuisine: pizza and burger Chef: Gordon Ramsay - opalbygordonramsaydoha.com
Doha
Dubai
Abu Dhabi
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Bread Street Kitchen Opening: autumn 2015 - Cuisine: european informal Chef: Gordon Ramsay - atlantisthepalm.com Dinners Opening: middle 2019 - Chef: Heston Blumenthal
dinnerbyheston.com
Indego by Vineet Bhatia O pening : june 2005 - C uisine contemporary indian Chef: Vineet Bhatia - Executive chef: Irshad Qureshi vineetbhatia.com Jamie’s Italian Opening: 2013 - Cuisine: italian - Chef: Jamie Oliver jamieoliver.com Marina Social Opening: september 2015 - Modern British-Italian Chef: Jason Atherton. Executive chef: Craig Best marinasocialdubai.com Niko Romito at Bulgari Hotel & Resort Opening: december 2017 - Cuisine: italian - Chef: Niko Romito Executive chef: Giacomo Amicucci - bulgarihotels.com Nobu Opening: 2008 - Cuisine: giapponese contemporanea e fusion Chef: Nobu Matsuhisa - Executive chef: Herve Courtot noburestaurants.com Rang Mahal by Atul Kochhar Opening: 2012 - Chef: Atul Kochhar - Cuisine: indiana jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com Reflets Par Pierre Gagnaire Opening: 2008 - reopening nel 2017 - Cuisine: francese Chef: Pierre Gagnaire - Executive chef: François-Xavier Simon pierre-gagnaire.com – ihg.com Rhodes Twenty10 Opening: agosto 2010 - Cuisine: europea con tocchi mediorentali Chef: Gary Rhodes - rhodestwenty10.com Rhodes WI Opening: september 2007 - Cuisine: anglo-french Chef: Gary Rhodes - rw1-dubai.com Roberto’s Opening: october 2012 - Cuisine: italian - Chef: Enrico Bartolini Executive chef: Andrea Mugavero - robertos.ae Ronda Locatelli Opening: 2008 - Cuisine: italian - Chef: Giorgio Locatelli Executive chef: Matteo Giordi - atlantisthepalm.com Simply Italian by Heinz Beck Opening: december 2013 - Cuisine: regional italian Chef: Heinz Beck - Executive chef: Federico Teresi simplyitaliandubai.com Social by Heinz Beck Opening: december 2013 - Cuisine: italian - Chef: Heinz Beck Executive chef: Francesco Acquaviva - waldorfastoria3.hilton.com Stay by Yannik Alléno Opening: autumn 2015 - Cuisine: french Chef: Yannick Alléno - yannick-alleno.com - oneandonlyresorts.com The Artisan by Enoteca Pinchiorri Opening: 2016 - Cuisine: italian - Chef: Annie Féolde & Riccardo Monco - Executive chef: Luca Tresoldi - theartisan.ae Vivaldi Opening: 2013 - Cuisine: italian - Chef: Alfredo Russo vivaldidubai.com
RECIPES
FULVIETTO PIERANGELINI PLACE OF BIRTH
AGE
CITY OF RESIDENCE
Milano
40
San Vincenzo (LI)
RESTAURANT NAME
RESTAURANTS BEFORE THIS ONE
Il Bucaniere
OWNER
RESTAURANT CONTACTS
PARTNER
335 8001695 ristoranteilbucaniere.com bagnoilbucaniere@gmail.com
EMPLOYEE
None, except my fathers' cookery
NAME OF SOUS CHEF
BEST LOVED INGREDIENT
Nessuno
Mushrooms
AGE OF SOUS CHEF
MOST HATED INGREDIENT
-
Cloves and amaretti
KITCHEN BRIGADE
DISH OF A LIFETIME
Natalia Shuyieva Michele Salaghini
My father’s herring ravioli
NAME OF SOMMELIER
My father Fulvio
Alessandro Lainà
MOST ESTEEMED PEER COLLEAGUE
FRONT OF HOUSE
Matteo Lorenzini
Emanuela Cattani (la mamma)
MY IDEA OF CUISINE, IN A FEW WORDS
REVERED MAESTRO
Approachable, reassuring, direct and clear RESTAURANT SEATING
FAVOURITE RESTAURANT ABROAD
40
Neat in Cannes A WINE ABOVE ALL OTHERS
HAD I NOT BEEN CHEF, I WOULD HAVE BEEN A
Paleo Rosso '95 Le Macchiole
Fisherman LAST DOWNLOADED ALBUM:
DISHES PRESENTED
Red Hot Chili Peppers LAST BOOK READ:
“Lenticchie alla julienne” by Antonio Albanese
Bonito, creamed sweet pepper and Salicornia; Turnip tops, calamari and sole fish roe; Pasta with veal tail; Sea bream and sides
IN THE FOLLOWING ISSUE, RECIPES BY: FRANCESCO BRUTTO by Paolo Cuccia – photo by Lido Vannucchi
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RECIPES
Sea bream and sides ingredients for 4 4 wild-caught sea breams each weighing approx. 400 g 1 kg mantis shrimp 300 g potatoes 120 g soy noodles, or udon or tagliatelle
100 g puntarelle 2 artichokes 2 lemons 4 saffron stigmas 4 oil-packed anchovy fillets 1 garlic clove 1 tbsp. soy sauce
Balsamic vinegar Anchovy colatura (garum) Seaweed Ginger root Lemongrass Fresh thyme Fresh basil
Nutmeg Extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste
Prep the sea bream: clean out and fillet the fish, removing the heads with the dorsal fillet and fishbone attached. Place the fish on a bed of fresh herbs and lemon slices in an oven dish and bake at 190°C for approximately 30 minutes. Prep the sides: trim the puntarelle, section them using the appropriate metal mesh tool and plunge them immediately in acidulated ice water. When the puntarelle have curled completely, drain and dress them with balsamic vinegar, chopped anchovies, colatura, and garlic- and pepper-scented extra-virgin olive oil. Prep the potato mash: choose same-size potatoes, place them, unpeeled, in a pot of cold water and boil until tender, approximately 40 minutes. Peel the potatoes while still hot, press them through a ricer with a pinch of grated nutmeg, salt and fine quality extra-virgin olive oil. Prep the artichokes: trim and slice them finely; dress with lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper, and optional chopped parsley. Prep the soy noodle soup: toast the mantis shrimp in a large saucepan with grated ginger root, lemongrass and garlic. Deglaze with water and cook the broth for approximately one hour. When ready, filter the broth add the seaweed and the saffron. Cook the noodles in the broth, seasoning with soy sauce. Plating: Serve the sea bream on a plate, served separately in four small bowls, the potato mash, the puntarelle, the raw artichoke salad and the noodle soup.
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Pasta with veal tail ingredients for 4 1 sectioned veal tail, weighing approximately 1 kg 320 g “mezzemaniche” pasta shape 200 g good quality dried
porcini mushrooms, soaked in a glass of water 50 g tomato passata 50 g Parmigiano Reggiano, grated 2 celery ribs, coarsely chopped
2 carrots, coarsely chopped 2 red onions Fresh basil Fresh thyme Mint Water used to revive the dried porcini mushrooms
Black chanterelle mushroom powder Salt Extra-virgin olive oil
Prep the tail: Sweat the finely sliced onions in olive oil in a pan along with plenty of fresh basil and thyme, over mild heat for approximately 40 minutes. Remove the onions from the pan and substitute for the sectioned veal tail, adjust seasoning and brown evenly. Deglaze with dried porcini reviving water, add back the cooked onions, and the celery, carrots, tomato passata, revived mushrooms, and braise for approximately 3-4 hours. Separate the meat from the vegetables and chop the meat that falls off the bones with a knife. Cook the mezzemaniche pasta in a large pot of lightly salted water. Drain and sauté the pasta in a pan with herbs and grated Parmigiano. Plating: Place a piece of veal tail and the sauce in each plate, beside it a spoonful of pasta, garnishing with a dusting of black chanterelle powder.
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RECIPES
Bonito, creamed sweet pepper and sea asparagus Ingredients for 4 1 whole bonito weighing 800 g 200 g Salicornia seaweed 2 red sweet peppers 2 yellow sweet peppers Juice of 1 orange Juice of ½ lemon Fresh herbs (thyme, basil, mint, marjoram, etc.) Ginger root Soy sauce Balsamic vinegar Water Extra-virgin olive oil Sugar, to taste Salt, to taste
Clean out and fillet the compact flesh of a fresh bonito, removing all the darker parts and innards, and soak in water, coarse salt and ice. Drain and blot dry with kitchen towel after approximately 10 minutes. Prepare a marinade with the herbs, some grated ginger root, a dash of soy sauce and a few drops of balsamic vinegar. Soak the fillets in the marinade for about 20 minutes, until they reach room temperature. To prepare the creamed sweet peppers: peel and blend the red and yellow separately with a pinch of salt, sugar and lemon juice. Prep the Salicornia: blanch for a few seconds and dress with orange juice emulsified with olive oil. Heat a new non-stick pan and sear the fillets on both sides for a few seconds. Plating: pour the pepper creams on the bottom of the dish, lay the fish fillets and top with the Salicornia. Dust with powdered red pepper and a few drops of balsamic vinegar and a thread of extra-virgin olive oil.
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Turnip tops, calamari and sole fish roe Ingredients for 4 700 g clean baby calamari 400 g trimmed turnip tops 1 garlic clove Sole fish roe to taste (can be substituted with mullet roe) Chilli pepper, to taste Salt, to taste Extra-virgin olive oil
Prep the turnip tops: blanch for a few seconds, then shock them in ice and water, then puree them. Boil the turnip buds and then quickly sauté them with olive oil, garlic and chili pepper. Quickly sear the calamari. Plating: Place the calamari and the turnip top cream in the plate, garnish with the buds. Dust with grated roe and a thread of extra-virgin olive oil.
THE EYE OF THE PHOTOGRAPHER Carrying your father’s same name can be viewed as a burden or a privilege. Most people think it requires courage. Unexpectedly, it actually requires sentiment. In the case of Fulvio Pierangelini, giving his name to his son is above all else, a gesture of love. I felt that same love for those dishes that are so distant from the modern table. Fulvietto speaks a language of his own, with strong references to his father and his passions: mushrooms and fish. Thus, the grand oven-baked sea bream: a journey into the sea and into the intimacy of flavour. – Lido Vannucchi
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ŠFinnano Fenno
GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Maria Victoria Santiago CONTRIBUTORS Stefania Annese, Antonella De Santis, Gianni Fabrizio, William Pregentelli, Lorenzo Ruggeri, Loredana Sottile, Massimiliano Tonelli PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Maurizio Ceccato, Alessandro Naldi
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