BONAMINI, GABRIELE BONCI, MASSIMO BOTTURA, CHIARA BUOSI, CAMILLA CARREGA, ADRIANA CINO, ENZO COCCIA, LORENZO COGO, MARCELO COPELLO, PAOLO CUCCIA, IGLES CORE
ELEONORA COZZELLA, FRANCO DAMMICCO, SAL DE RISO, ANTONELLA DE SANTIS, ELISABETTA DI FUSCO, LAURA DI PIETRANTONIO, EUGENIA DURANDO, GIANNI FABRIZIO, ROSSE
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FANTINA, CARLO FIORI GUFFANTI, GIORGIO FRANCI, GIORGIONE, ANDREA GOLINO, ANDREA ILLY, PRISCILLA INCISA DELLA ROCCHETTA, SIL WWW G AELEONORA M B E RGUERINI, O R O SALFONSO S O IIACCARINO, T
JERMANN, DARIO LAURENZI, DARIO LOISON, LAURA MANTOVANO, GUALTIERO MARCHESI, VALENTINA YEAR 21 N. 102 - DECEMBER 2016 MARINO, MAX MARIOLA, LEONE MARZOTTO PECK, IGINIO MASSARI, ENR MAZZARONI IL TIGLIO, CAMILLA MONTEDURO, AIMO E STEFANIA MORONI, CATERINA PAMPHILI, FRANCO PEPE, PAOLA PERSI, FULVIO PIERANGELINI, CARLO PIETRASANTA, OLIVER PIR
WINE
T R AV E L
FOOD
STEFANO POLACCHI, WILLIAM PREGENTELLI, LAURA RAVAIOLI, LUCA REVELLI SKY, ALESSANDRO ROSCIOLI, LORENZO RUGGERI, MARCO SABELLICO, MARIA VICTORIA SANTIAGO, GIANLU
®
SILVESTRI, ANGELICA SORBARA, LOREDANA SOTTILE, PINA SOZIO, MASSIMO SPIGAROLI, MADELEINE STENWRETH, MASSIMILIANO TONELLI, ANNAMARIA CUOMO E SALVATORE DE GENNA
LA TRADIZIONE DI VICO EQUENSE, VITO, ANNALISA ZORDAN, FRANCO ZILIANI GUIDO BERLUCCHI, FERRAN ADRIÀ, MASSIMILIANO ALAJMO, GERARDO ANTELMO, CORRADO ASSENZA, MIR
BALZANO, PAOLO BARILLA, HEINZ BECK, ALBERTO BETTINI DA AMERIGO, ANTONIO BOCO, SARA BONAMINI, GABRIELE BONCI, MASSIMO BOTTURA, CHIARA BUOSI, CAMILLA CARRE
ADRIANA CINO, ENZO COCCIA, LORENZO COGO, MARCELO COPELLO, PAOLO CUCCIA, IGLES CORELLI, ELEONORA COZZELLA, FRANCO DAMMICCO, SAL DE RISO, ANTONELLA DE SAN
ELISABETTA DI FUSCO, LAURA DI PIETRANTONIO, EUGENIA DURANDO, GIANNI FABRIZIO, ROSSELLA FANTINA, CARLO FIORI GUFFANTI, GIORGIO FRANCI, GIORGIONE, ANDREA GOL
ELEONORA GUERINI, ALFONSO IACCARINO, ANDREA ILLY, PRISCILLA INCISA DELLA ROCCHETTA, SILVIO JERMANN, DARIO LAURENZI, DARIO LOISON, LAURA MANTOVANO, GUALTI
MARCHESI, VALENTINA MARINO, MAX MARIOLA, LEONE MARZOTTO PECK, IGINIO MASSARI, ENRICO MAZZARONI IL TIGLIO, CAMILLA MONTEDURO, AIMO E STEFANIA MORONI, CATER
PAMPHILI, FRANCO PEPE, PAOLA PERSI, FULVIO PIERANGELINI, CARLO PIETRASANTA, OLIVER PIRAS, STEFANO POLACCHI, WILLIAM PREGENTELLI, LAURA RAVAIOLI, LUCA REVELLI S
ALESSANDRO ROSCIOLI, LORENZO RUGGERI, MARCO SABELLICO, MARIA VICTORIA SANTIAGO, GIANLUIGI SILVESTRI, ANGELICA SORBARA, LOREDANA SOTTILE, PINA SOZIO, MASS
SPIGAROLI, MADELEINE STENWRETH, MASSIMILIANO TONELLI, ANNAMARIA CUOMO E SALVATORE DE GENNARO LA TRADIZIONE DI VICO EQUENSE, VITO, ANNALISA ZORDAN, FRAN
ZILIANI GUIDO BERLUCCHI, FERRAN ADRIÀ, MASSIMILIANO ALAJMO, GERARDO ANTELMO, CORRADO ASSENZA, MIRKO BALZANO, PAOLO BARILLA, HEINZ BECK, ALBERTO BETTINI
AMERIGO, ANTONIO BOCO, SARA BONAMINI, GABRIELE BONCI, MASSIMO BOTTURA, CHIARA BUOSI, CAMILLA CARREGA, ADRIANA CINO, ENZO COCCIA, LORENZO COGO, MARCELO COPEL
PAOLO CUCCIA, IGLES CORELLI, ELEONORA COZZELLA, FRANCO DAMMICCO, SAL DE RISO, ANTONELLA DE SANTIS, ELISABETTA DI FUSCO, LAURA DI PIETRANTONIO, EUGENIA DURAN
GIANNI FABRIZIO, ROSSELLA FANTINA, CARLO FIORI GUFFANTI, GIORGIO FRANCI, GIORGIONE, ANDREA GOLINO, ELEONORA GUERINI, ALFONSO IACCARINO, ANDREA ILLY, PRISCILLA INC
DELLA ROCCHETTA, SILVIO JERMANN, DARIO LAURENZI, DARIO LOISON, LAURA MANTOVANO, GUALTIERO MARCHESI, VALENTINA MARINO, MAX MARIOLA, LEONE MARZOTTO PECK, IGI
MASSARI, ENRICO MAZZARONI IL TIGLIO, CAMILLA MONTEDURO, AIMO E STEFANIA MORONI, CATERINA PAMPHILI, FRANCO PEPE, PAOLA PERSI, FULVIO PIERANGELINI, CARLO PIETRASAN
OLIVER PIRAS, STEFANO POLACCHI, WILLIAM PREGENTELLI, LAURA RAVAIOLI, LUCA REVELLI SKY, ALESSANDRO ROSCIOLI, LORENZO RUGGERI, MARCO SABELLICO, MARIA VICTO
SANTIAGO, GIANLUIGI SILVESTRI, ANGELICA SORBARA, LOREDANA SOTTILE, PINA SOZIO, MASSIMO SPIGAROLI, MADELEINE STENWRETH, MASSIMILIANO TONELLI, ANNAMARIA CUOM
SALVATORE DE GENNARO LA TRADIZIONE DI VICO EQUENSE, VITO, ANNALISA ZORDAN, FRANCO ZILIANI GUIDO BERLUCCHI, FERRAN ADRIÀ, MASSIMILIANO ALAJMO, GERARDO ANTEL
CORRADO ASSENZA, MIRKO BALZANO, PAOLO BARILLA, HEINZ BECK, ALBERTO BETTINI DA AMERIGO, ANTONIO BOCO, SARA BONAMINI, GABRIELE BONCI, MASSIMO BOTTURA, CHI
BUOSI, CAMILLA CARREGA, ADRIANA CINO, ENZO COCCIA, LORENZO COGO, MARCELO COPELLO, PAOLO CUCCIA, IGLES CORELLI, ELEONORA COZZELLA, FRANCO DAMMICCO, SAL DE R
ANTONELLA DE SANTIS, ELISABETTA DI FUSCO, LAURA DI PIETRANTONIO, EUGENIA DURANDO, GIANNI FABRIZIO, ROSSELLA FANTINA, CARLO FIORI GUFFANTI, GIORGIO FRANCI, GIORGIO
ANDREA GOLINO, ELEONORA GUERINI, ALFONSO IACCARINO, ANDREA ILLY, PRISCILLA INCISA DELLA ROCCHETTA, SILVIO JERMANN, DARIO LAURENZI, DARIO LOISON, LAURA MANTOVA
GUALTIERO MARCHESI, VALENTINA MARINO, MAX MARIOLA, LEONE MARZOTTO PECK, IGINIO MASSARI, ENRICO MAZZARONI IL TIGLIO, CAMILLA MONTEDURO, AIMO E STEFANIA MOR
CATERINA PAMPHILI, FRANCO PEPE, PAOLA PERSI, FULVIO PIERANGELINI, CARLO PIETRASANTA, OLIVER PIRAS, STEFANO POLACCHI, WILLIAM PREGENTELLI, LAURA RAVAIOLI, LUCA REV
SKY, ALESSANDRO ROSCIOLI, LORENZO RUGGERI, MARCO SABELLICO, MARIA VICTORIA SANTIAGO, GIANLUIGI SILVESTRI, ANGELICA SORBARA, LOREDANA SOTTILE, PINA SOZIO, MASS
SPIGAROLI, MADELEINE STENWRETH, MASSIMILIANO TONELLI, ANNAMARIA CUOMO E SALVATORE DE GENNARO LA TRADIZIONE DI VICO EQUENSE, VITO, ANNALISA ZORDAN, FRAN
ZILIANI GUIDO BERLUCCHI, FERRAN ADRIÀ, MASSIMILIANO ALAJMO, GERARDO ANTELMO, CORRADO ASSENZA, MIRKO BALZANO, PAOLO BARILLA, HEINZ BECK, ALBERTO BETTINI
AMERIGO, ANTONIO BOCO, SARA BONAMINI, GABRIELE BONCI, MASSIMO BOTTURA, CHIARA BUOSI, CAMILLA CARREGA, ADRIANA CINO, ENZO COCCIA, LORENZO COGO, MARCELO COPEL
PAOLO CUCCIA, IGLES CORELLI, ELEONORA COZZELLA, FRANCO DAMMICCO, SAL DE RISO, ANTONELLA DE SANTIS, ELISABETTA DI FUSCO, LAURA DI PIETRANTONIO, EUGENIA DURAN
GIANNI FABRIZIO, ROSSELLA FANTINA, CARLO FIORI GUFFANTI, GIORGIO FRANCI, GIORGIONE, ANDREA GOLINO, ELEONORA GUERINI, ALFONSO IACCARINO, ANDREA ILLY, PRISCILLA INC
DELLA ROCCHETTA, SILVIO JERMANN, DARIO LAURENZI, DARIO LOISON, LAURA MANTOVANO, GUALTIERO MARCHESI, VALENTINA MARINO, MAX MARIOLA, LEONE MARZOTTO PECK, IGI
MASSARI, ENRICO MAZZARONI IL TIGLIO, CAMILLA MONTEDURO, AIMO E STEFANIA MORONI, CATERINA PAMPHILI, FRANCO PEPE, PAOLA PERSI, FULVIO PIERANGELINI, CARLO PIETRASAN
OLIVER PIRAS, STEFANO POLACCHI, WILLIAM PREGENTELLI, LAURA RAVAIOLI, LUCA REVELLI SKY, ALESSANDRO ROSCIOLI, LORENZO RUGGERI, MARCO SABELLICO, MARIA VICTO
SANTIAGO, GIANLUIGI SILVESTRI, ANGELICA SORBARA, LOREDANA SOTTILE, PINA SOZIO, MASSIMO SPIGAROLI, MADELEINE STENWRETH, MASSIMILIANO TONELLI, ANNAMARIA CUOM
SALVATORE DE GENNARO LA TRADIZIONE DI VICO EQUENSE, VITO, ANNALISA ZORDAN, FRANCO ZILIANI GUIDO BERLUCCHI, FERRAN ADRIÀ, MASSIMILIANO ALAJMO, GERARDO ANTEL
CORRADO ASSENZA, MIRKO BALZANO, PAOLO BARILLA, HEINZ BECK, ALBERTO BETTINI DA AMERIGO, ANTONIO BOCO, SARA BONAMINI, GABRIELE BONCI, MASSIMO BOTTURA, CHI
BUOSI, CAMILLA CARREGA, ADRIANA CINO, ENZO COCCIA, LORENZO COGO, MARCELO COPELLO, PAOLO CUCCIA, IGLES CORELLI, ELEONORA COZZELLA, FRANCO DAMMICCO, SAL DE R
ANTONELLA DE SANTIS, ELISABETTA DI FUSCO, LAURA DI PIETRANTONIO, EUGENIA DURANDO, GIANNI FABRIZIO, ROSSELLA FANTINA, CARLO FIORI GUFFANTI, GIORGIO FRANCI, GIORGIO
ANDREA GOLINO, ELEONORA GUERINI, ALFONSO IACCARINO, ANDREA ILLY, PRISCILLA INCISA DELLA ROCCHETTA, SILVIO JERMANN, DARIO LAURENZI, DARIO LOISON, LAURA MANTOVA
GUALTIERO MARCHESI, VALENTINA MARINO, MAX MARIOLA, LEONE MARZOTTO PECK, IGINIO MASSARI, ENRICO MAZZARONI IL TIGLIO, CAMILLA MONTEDURO, AIMO E STEFANIA MOR
CATERINA PAMPHILI, FRANCO PEPE, PAOLA PERSI, FULVIO PIERANGELINI, CARLO PIETRASANTA, OLIVER PIRAS, STEFANO POLACCHI, WILLIAM PREGENTELLI, LAURA RAVAIOLI, LUCA REV
SKY, ALESSANDRO ROSCIOLI, LORENZO RUGGERI, MARCO SABELLICO, MARIA VICTORIA SANTIAGO, GIANLUIGI SILVESTRI, ANGELICA SORBARA, LOREDANA SOTTILE, PINA SOZIO, MASS
SPIGAROLI, MADELEINE STENWRETH, MASSIMILIANO TONELLI, ANNAMARIA CUOMO E SALVATORE DE GENNARO LA TRADIZIONE DI VICO EQUENSE, VITO, ANNALISA ZORDAN, FRAN
ZILIANI GUIDO BERLUCCHI, FERRAN ADRIÀ, MASSIMILIANO ALAJMO, GERARDO ANTELMO, CORRADO ASSENZA, MIRKO BALZANO, PAOLO BARILLA, HEINZ BECK, ALBERTO BETTINI
AMERIGO, ANTONIO BOCO, SARA BONAMINI, GABRIELE BONCI, MASSIMO BOTTURA, CHIARA BUOSI, CAMILLA CARREGA, ADRIANA CINO, ENZO COCCIA, LORENZO COGO, MARCELO COPEL
PAOLO CUCCIA, IGLES CORELLI, ELEONORA COZZELLA, FRANCO DAMMICCO, SAL DE RISO, ANTONELLA DE SANTIS, ELISABETTA DI FUSCO, LAURA DI PIETRANTONIO, EUGENIA DURAN
GIANNI FABRIZIO, ROSSELLA FANTINA, CARLO FIORI GUFFANTI, GIORGIO FRANCI, GIORGIONE, ANDREA GOLINO, ELEONORA GUERINI, ALFONSO IACCARINO, ANDREA ILLY, PRISCILLA INC
DELLA ROCCHETTA, SILVIO JERMANN, DARIO LAURENZI, DARIO LOISON, LAURA MANTOVANO, GUALTIERO MARCHESI, VALENTINA MARINO, MAX MARIOLA, LEONE MARZOTTO PECK, IGI
MASSARI, ENRICO MAZZARONI IL TIGLIO, CAMILLA MONTEDURO, AIMO E STEFANIA MORONI, CATERINA PAMPHILI, FRANCO PEPE, PAOLA PERSI, FULVIO PIERANGELINI, CARLO PIETRASAN
OLIVER PIRAS, STEFANO POLACCHI, WILLIAM PREGENTELLI, LAURA RAVAIOLI, LUCA REVELLI SKY, ALESSANDRO ROSCIOLI, LORENZO RUGGERI, MARCO SABELLICO, MARIA VICTO
SANTIAGO, GIANLUIGI SILVESTRI, ANGELICA SORBARA, LOREDANA SOTTILE, PINA SOZIO, MASSIMO SPIGAROLI, MADELEINE STENWRETH, MASSIMILIANO TONELLI, ANNAMARIA CUOM
SALVATORE DE GENNARO LA TRADIZIONE DI VICO EQUENSE, VITO, ANNALISA ZORDAN, FRANCO ZILIANI GUIDO BERLUCCHI, FERRAN ADRIÀ, MASSIMILIANO ALAJMO, GERARDO ANTEL
CORRADO ASSENZA, MIRKO BALZANO, PAOLO BARILLA, HEINZ BECK, ALBERTO BETTINI DA AMERIGO, ANTONIO BOCO, SARA BONAMINI, GABRIELE BONCI, MASSIMO BOTTURA, CHI
BUOSI, CAMILLA CARREGA, ADRIANA CINO, ENZO COCCIA, LORENZO COGO, MARCELO COPELLO, PAOLO CUCCIA, IGLES CORELLI, ELEONORA COZZELLA, FRANCO DAMMICCO, SAL DE R
ANTONELLA DE SANTIS, ELISABETTA DI FUSCO, LAURA DI PIETRANTONIO, EUGENIA DURANDO, GIANNI FABRIZIO, ROSSELLA FANTINA, CARLO FIORI GUFFANTI, GIORGIO FRANCI, GIORGIO
a tavola december 2016
14
30 YEARS SPECIAL 14 | The Heroes of Made in Italy. Fulvio Pierangelini. Gambero Rosso times two. “We were giving birth to the future� 26 | 1986 The first editorial. The war for good food. Yesterday. The New Gastronomes. Today. GualtieroMarchesi. The conquest of simplicity. Massimo Bottura. From Tortellini to breaking with tradition. 38 | 2016 Today. A dream vertical tasting. Sassicaia, Jermann, Berlucchi.
2 SEPTEMBER 2016
50
6
«You know you’re Italian when You have been hit By a wooden spoon»
38
31
TRAVEL
NEWS & MORE
50 | Cortina d’Ampezzo. The Queen of the Dolomites An area that doesn’t need much of an introduction, and certainly offers up way more than snowy peaks and ski slopes. In our mountain series, here are the best places to eat and drink – or simply grab a coffee – in Cortina d’Ampezzo.
4 | Editorial 6 | Events. Gallery 12 | Wine of the month Madre ’14 - Italo Cescon 13 | Twitter dixit
FOOD 6| The Italian Union for Sustainable Palm Oil Palm oil continues to be at the center of controversy, dividing the public in factions. We’ve researched the pros and cons of the ill-famed vegetable fat, neither demonizing nor sanctifying it.
3 SEPTEMBER 2016
EDITORIAL
h t r o F d n a k c Ba At thirty, you begin to have some idea about what you’re going to do when you grow up. At least you understand the limits, and you know how to recognize opportunities. Thirty years ago, on ,MKMUJMZ ! \PM ÅZ[\ Q[[]M of Gambero Rosso went to press. A group of friends, passionate believers, and in hindsight, visionaries, launched a project that radically changed the way of eating, drinking, living, for many of us in the sector. <PM [QOVI\]ZM[ WV \PM ÅZ[\ IZ\QKTM[ \PM ones we’re bringing you this month, are of two of the founders, Stefano Bonilli and Carlin Petrini. Everything started then. The players have changed, as have the dimensions of the project. Today, Gambero Rosso is a company quoted on the stock market, with branches in Italy and abroad. Above all, the model has changed but not the mission: to tell the world about Italian quality, its essence, its individuality. We do it with guides, events, schools, a television channel. In this issue, we look back at some of the essential moments in Italian wine and food history. We do so with the words of some of the star players, and above all by remembering some great labels, the classics. In the midst of all this, we also look at the international tours that took us from South Africa to Bangkok, and at a
number of clear guiding ideas that we will return to, even exhaustively, in the year to come. First, a campaign to increase awareness about bottle closures that are alternatives to cork, above all screw tops, which perfectly preserve IV QVÅVQ\M ZIVOM WN KZQX[a [MV[I\QWV[ We will also develop a series of columns to stimulate the improvement of hospitality in our wineries. More important even than improving exports is to broaden something which we are doing very well here in Italy, and that is to bring people to the wine territory itself, to create a human relationship between the producer and the consumer, whether they live a few miles IXIZ\ WZ IZM [MXIZI\ML Ja I \MV PW]Z ÆQOP\ <PM \PQZL mantra: Italian cucina in the world. We are collecting a series of stories of experiences, wonderful, crazy stories that deserve a new showcase that won’t just be a guide. All in all, we’re in full swing – a break, and then we’re on our way again. In January our tour will start up in the north of Europe: Stockholm, Oslo, and Copenhagen. So, we toast all of you who have played a part in this history, even if only for a while, with a good glass of true, honest wine. Our heartfelt wishes, and thank you for sharing our passions around the world. Lorenzo Ruggeri
4 DECEMBER 2016
WORLDTOUR
trebicchieri
V
i d’Itali in
YEARS
Vini d’Italia
EXPERIENCE
2016 OCTOBER 29
ROME
FEBRUARY trebicchieri
NOVEMBER
07
CHICAGO
trebicchieri
09
NEW YORK
trebicchieri
13
LOS ANGELES
trebicchieri Special Edition 30 YEARS Vini d’Italia
13
LOS ANGELES
Experience
15
SAN FRANCISCO
trebicchieri
02
SEOUL
trebicchieri Special Edition 30 YEARS Vini d’Italia
04
BEIJING
trebicchieri
07
TAIPEI
Top Italian Wines Roadshow
09
HONG KONG
trebicchieri
MARCH
14
OSAKA
Top Italian Wines Roadshow
06
BANGKOK
Top Italian Wines Extra
16
TOKYO
trebicchieri
08
HANOI
Top Italian Wines Roadshow
23
MOSCOW
trebicchieri
10
SINGAPORE
Top Italian Wines Roadshow
25
WARSAW
Vini d'Italia Experience
13
SYDNEY
Top Italian Wines Roadshow
25
WARSAW
Experience
18
DUSSELDORF
trebicchieri
28
ZURICH
Vini d'Italia Experience
30
CUBA
Top Italian Wines Extra
28
ZURICH
Experience 04
MIAMI
Vini d'Italia Experience
04
MIAMI
Experience
17
SÃO PAULO
Top Italian Wines Extra
04
LONDON
16
DUBAI
trebicchieri Special Edition 30 YEARS Vini d’Italia trebicchieri Special Edition 30 YEARS Vini d’Italia
APRIL DECEMBER 01
CAPE TOWN
Top Italian Wines Roadshow
2017
MAY
JANUARY 16
STOCKHOLM
trebicchieri Special Edition 30 YEARS Vini d’Italia
18
OSLO
Vini d'Italia Experience
20
COPENHAGEN
Vini d'Italia Experience
20
COPENHAGEN
Experience
30
MUNICH
trebicchieri
JUNE 05
MOSCOW
Vini d'Italia Experience
VANCOUVER
Vini d'Italia Experience
05-06 VANCOUVER
Experience
08
TORONTO
trebicchieri
08-09 TORONTO
Experience
SEATTLE
INFO: www.gamberorosso.it/international
a
Vini d’Italia 2017
1
Vini d'Italia Experience
9 segreteria.estero@gamberorosso.it
NEWS FROM AROUND THETRENDS WORLD
Annalisa Zordan contributed
The Italian Union for Sustainable Palm Oil Palm oil continues to be at the center of controversy, dividing the public in factions. We’ve researched the pros and cons of the ill-famed vegetable fat, neither demonizing nor sanctifying it. Yes, on one end there’s an actual body that exonerates it almost completely, at least as far as purported environmental threats it may pose: “There’s been lots of talk lately regarding palmo il, discussing environmental and health hazards, but the arguement has been often generalQbML _Q\P QV[QOVQÅKIV\ KTQKPu[ \PI\ IZM VW\ JIKSML Ja IVa [KQMV\QÅK NIK\ whatsoever”, says Giuseppe Allocca, President of the group. “There’s a fair amount of prejudice in regards to palmo il which needs attention, like for example that it canìt be produced in a sustainable fashion. Con\ZIZQTa KMZ\QÅML [][\IQVIJTM XITUW QT already exists and it’s being produced by growing environmentally acceptable palm trees, preserving areas from deforestation and respecting native populations. All the business that use our approved product have been ][QVO KMZ\QÅML :;87 :W]VL\IJTM WV ;][\IQVIJTM 8ITU 7QT XITU oil for years. By the year 2020 the plani s to adopt even more strict cer-
\QÅKI\QWV KZQ\MZQI <PQ[ KPWQKM MUbraces the suggested actions of great international environment organizations like Greenpeace and WWF International, who continue to consider palmo il one of nature’s most sustainable vegetable oils”. As a matter of fact it is irrefutable that if we were to substitute palm oil with rapeseed oil, for example, we’d need 5 times the cropland necessary to produce the same quantity of oil. ;IUM OWM[ NWZ XM[\QKQLM[" XITU WQT uses 2 kg of pesticides per tonne, U]KP TM[[ \PIV []VÆW_MZ _PQKP ][M[ SO \ ZIXM[MML SO \ WZ [Wa ! SO \ 7V \PM W\PMZ [QLM WN \PM JIZZQKILM are those contesting that sustainable palm oil who criticize the slack KZQ\MZQI MVNWZKML \W WJ\IQV :;87 :W]VL\IJTM WV ;][\IQVIJTM 8ITU 7QT KMZ\QÅKI\QWV IVL \Z]IVKa WN KWVtrols. And this is just scratching the surface of the environmental side of the discussion. A whole other topic is health. 6 DECEMBER 2016
Is palm oil truly hazardous to our health? +WVÆQK\QVO WXQVQWV[ PMZM \WW )Kcording to Allocca “it’s true, palm oil is used in many processed foods and for this reason, critics have tried to demonize it by accusing it of contributing to an intake of excess in trans fat.Instead recent data proves this ingredient brings less than 20% of the tranbs fats we ingest daily. The remaining 80% comes from other foods… there has JMMV QV MNNMK\ ]VR][\QÅML [KIZMUWVgering on an ingredients. We’re here to shed some light on this aspect as well”. 7V \PM W\PMZ PIVL NWZ \PM -]ZWXMIV .WWL ;INM\a )]\PWZQ\a \PM Q[[]M cannot be reduced to mere scaremongering: “Contaminants from JI[M OTaKMZWT XZWKM[[ []J[\IVKM[ \PI\ LM^MTWX I\ PQOP \MUXMZI\]ZM[ present in palm oil as well as in other vegetable fats like margarine
and other processed foods, cause potentially hazardous health problems to average amount of product ingested by young age groups and larger amounts ingested by all age groups.” The study goe sas far as suggesting cancerogenic effects, hypothesizing a complete conversion of ingested MTMUMV\[ QV\W OTaKQLWT ¹<PMZM Q[ []NÅKQMV\ M^QLMVKM \PI\ OTaKQLWT Q[ OMVW\W`QK IVL KIVKMZWOMVQKº IN\MZ QVOM[\QWV -^MZaWVM IOZMM[ WV WVM thing: daily use should not be exKM[[Q^M -N[I [M\[ \PM UI` LITQa QVtake to 0,8 microgrammes per kilo of weight for 3-MCPD and relative fatty acid resulting from processing of foods, in particular vegetable NI\[ \PI\ IZM ZMÅVML I\ PQOP \MUXMZI\]ZM[ TQSM + [MM" [VIKS[ KWWSQM[ KZIKSMZ[ <PQ[ TQUQ\ KW]TL XZWJIJTa JM QVKWUXI\QJTM with the amouny of products containing palm oil available on the market.
How the big companies are behaving ,MÅVQ\MTa VWV KWVNWZUQ[\ [ \PM Ferrero brand, which defends its use of palm oil through an unmistakeable TV ad. The message is that Nutella is being made with “quality” palm oilhailing exclusively from freshly pressed fruits and transformed at contolled temperatures. In addi-
tion to this arguement, Alessandro L¼-[\M +-7 WN .MZZMZW 1\ITQI [\I\M[ theirs is “a safe oil and a sustainable one”, and perfect to enhance the creaminess of their products. The majority of manufacturers, on the other hand, express doubt, or as a response to marketing needs – given the media attention palm oil has received – has decided to ban the product. Like Coop, which has announced the will to substitute palm oil in all its branded food products IN\MZ X]JTQKI\QWV WN \PM -N[I LW[[QMZ In a note by the brand: “For Coop branded products we will hasten the procedure of substituting palm oil with extra virgin olive oil or single origin seed oils, with the use of more nutritionally balanced recipes and formulas. Coop has already substituted palm oil in 100 branded products, among these ‘Crescendo’ and ‘Club 4-10’ children’s line, as well as the ‘Viviverde’ line and the »;WTQLIT +WWX¼ [XZMILIJTM KPWKWTI\M cream. Purging from palm oil the remaining 120 branded products will happen over the course of the VM`\ NM_ UWV\P[º 7V Q\[ XIZ\ *IZQlla that for its baked products under Mulino Bianco line has shifted opinQWV[ LMNMVLQVO XITU WQT \PZW]OP IV Aidepi campaign as unsubstitutIJTM PI[ ZMKMV\Ta IVVW]VKML WV its website that “we have already banned palm oil with other oils in at TMI[\ ! XZWL]K\[º <PM[M IZM WVTa two examples of the “No palm oil” bandwagon, at least for some prod-
7 DECEMBER 2016
ucts. Consider Colussi, Balocco, Buitoni, Loacker, Pavesi, Carrefour, Conad, Eurospin, Esselunga, Pam and Panorama plus more are all on the no front. Are they indulging the ever-growing hostility in regards to this product? Good, but not great. The use of a potential “single origin seed” or “other oils” is not at all reassuring. What other oils? Are they environmentally kosher? Who guarantees they are more healthy? Just a thought: should we start producing M^MZa\PQVO _Q\P KW[\Ta []VÆW_MZ WZ []VÆW_MZ [MML WQT I\ I OTIVKM \PQ[ looks like the most frequently used []J[\Q\]\M QV XTIKM WN XITU WQT MVvironmental issues would not be [WT^ML [QVKM []VÆW_MZ WQT PI[ I LMÅVQ\MTa QVNMZQWZ aQMTL XMZ PMK\are than palm oil. With the lack or worldwide cropland available this choice would signify subtracting land to other cultivations, like cereals, for example. The consequence would be a price increase with diZMK\ ZMXMZK][[QWV[ WV \PM TM[[ INÆ]ent global populations, who survive solely thanks to a cereal-based diet. Health issues would equally not be solved, considering all trans fat-rich WQT[ ^MOM\IJTM WQT[ _PMV PMI\ML produce cancerogenic elements. The remedy of substituting palm oil with another vegetable oil appears worse than the illness. We hope than no other oil overtakes the palm oil dominance. As an alternative it would be better if industries would start using various oils, including extra virgin and – why VW\' · J]\\MZ \WW -^MZ \PM K]TXZQ\ \PMV ÅVITTa QV 2]VM M`K]TXI\ML by an article published on Time. Moderation, as per usual, is the answer. Inclusing in the eating of great quantities of processed foods, _PI\M^MZ \PM NI\ MUXTWaML 7VM [WTid and certain truth remains: when the media does a tirade against any product, usually it’s wise to not give 100% credit to the arguement.
EVENTS GALLRY
GAMBERO ROSSO ON THE ROAD
Top Italian Restaurants
Š
Last Month Gambero Rosso Tour has stopped in Moscow, Warsaw, Zurich, Cape Town (for the first time) and Bangkok. Our Italian wines selection met the best local Italian restaurants, hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a preview from our Top Italian Restaurants in the World guidebook. Cape Town:
Top Italian Restaurant - Balzi Rossi Top Italian Wine List - Semifreddo Top Pizzeria - Pinzeria by Bontempi
Best Italian Restaurant - 95 Keerom Best Italian Trattoria - Magica Roma
Warsaw
Moscow:
8 DECEMBER 2016
2017
ww w .gamberorosso.it
NOVEMBER 2015
Moscow
9
Cape Town
EVENTS GALLERY
10 DECEMBER 2016
Bangkok 11 DECEMBER 2016
WINE OF THE MONTH
MANZONI BIANCO AT ITS PEAK
Madre â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14 Italo Cescon 11,500 bottles ex-cellar price: 10.00 euros (+ taxes) Gloria, Graziella, and Domenico Cescon radically renewed their family winery without losing touch with their roots. They have over 100 hectares of vineyard today, which they supplement with fruit bought in from a host of other local growers. The latter goes mainly to making their more straightforward wines, while the estate vineyards are the foundation for the more ambitious offerings, wines that are aromatic and with superb personalities. We have been expecting for years now the placing of the capstone in the Cescon enterprise, and here it is, in the appearance of a Manzoni Bianco that has no peer. Madre 2014 embodies superb aromatic expression, with understated use of wood that heightens the effect of citrus and tropical fruit, while the nearendless progression in the mouth is emphatic yet majestic. Our tip? Pair it wih some pan-fried spicy chicken.
12 DECEMBER 2016
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Neal Martin
Just stunning. Clos Vougeot at its most golden.
Cocktails â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;n Fitness Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s totally true!
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13 DECEMBER 2016
EDITORIAL
THE HEROES OF MADE IN ITALY
T
here were at least two ways to celebrate our thirty years of history. The most traditional was to consider it a finish line, a goal achieved, but that isn’t in the spirit of our group, and it wouldn’t have been in the Gambero DNA. Since its birth, Gambero Rosso has always looked ahead. So we chose to hear from the people who in these three decades have shown foresight, pointed out the paths to take. Thanks to them, today Italian food and wine is loved and respected in every corner of the planet. Dear reader, in this thirty-year special, you won’t find
an archive of fighters and survivors, but a wide-ranging, although never complete, group of explorers and creators. Over these dynamic, turbulent years, there have been many men and women who, with stubborn, Italian-style determination, challenged the markets with their professional skills. They met with the resistance that Italy puts up to the development of production chains that begin with agriculture and viticulture, take in the entire food production, food service and hospitality industries, and powerfully impact farm machinery, food processing and packaging. That
resistance probably grew out of the fact that our country, coming into the system late compared to other European nations, and attaining industrialization late, was inclined to favor classical sectors and professions. The ambition of every Italian parent was to have a son who became a lawyer, doctor or engineer. Farming, cooking, and food service were considered minor fields, even despicable ones. Thirty years later, the scene has profoundly changed. Agricultural entrepreneurs have become specialists in quality products ranging from kiwis to wine. Chefs not only triumph on television – and
Almanacco dei Golosi
Vini d’Italia 1988 is presented in Florence
Gambero Rosso, from an insert in the newspaper Manifesto, becomes a 32page supplement
First edition of the German Vini d’Italia
The first Rome guide
The Milano guide appears
The first Ristoranti d’Italia guide
1987
1988
1989 14 DECEMBER 2016
1990
1991
december
november
october
september
august
july
june
may
april
march
December 16, 1988, the first Gambero Rosso
february
da called on Michele Scannavini, a veteran CEO from the private sector, to head the Italian Trade Agency. The new Agency president is launching projects to further grow international exports of quality wines, beginning with the United States. The number of Italian bottles sold there has moved ahead of the French, despite a sizable price difference (on the average,
january
Gambero Rosso Channel was a European pioneer in thematic TV – but they occupy important positions in the world’s best restaurants. Maître d’s are wellpaid professionals, and in great demand. In recent months, Ministers Paolo Gentiloni and Maurizio Martina created, under the supervision of Vincenzo De Luca, the first week of Italian Cucina in the world The Extraordinary Italian Taste. More than 1,300 events took place in over 100 countries on the planet, giving visibility to Italy’s excellent products, but also underlining – finally –how much our government values the heroes of Italian flavors around the globe. Recently, Minister Carlo Calen-
1986
The first Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food
A new format The monthly switches from drawings to photos
Almanacco del Berebene
The web site is established
Gambero Rosso, from a supplement, becomes a monthly magazine
1992
1993
1994 15 DECEMBER 2016
1995
1996
30 YEARS SPECIAL
Cucina and anthropology, ethnic traditions
Paperback recipes
How politicians eat
Gambero Rosso Channel launched
First edition of Italian Wines
1997
1998
5 euros for Italian, 10 for French). The Gambero has the honor of contributing to the coordination of both projects, the only independent, non-governmental player involved. Being called on to play that role, to be considered an un-
First edition of Bar dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Italia with the Viaggiarbene guide
1999
biased participant, demonstrates the reputation that the Gambero has built over the years, credibility that is evident today both in Italy and abroad. To return to the importance of production chains. Economic analysts 16 DECEMBER 2016
2000
2001
today attribute to them about 20% in terms of GDP and employment, while they play a major role in the export sector. So, thirty years later, everything is Ă&#x2026;VM' AM[ IVL VW AM[ NWZ ZMI[WV[ aW] _QTT ZMIL IJW]\
Master in Journalism and Communication for Business, Food and Wine First guide to Italy’s gelaterias
The Gambero maps historic vineyards
The Città del gusto opens
No-frills luxury Recipes from great chefs
The first cooking school
2002
2003
in this special edition: successful grape varieties and growers, chefs \PI\ PI^M KWVÅZUML \PM UWLMZVQ\a and therefore competitiveness of Italian food services, restaurants and other formats. No, because economic stagnation has led to a fall in domestic consumption, even to shrink-
2004 ing the sums spent on food. Conversely, exports grow, even if at an QV[]NÅKQMV\ XIKM 5MIV_PQTM \PM quality and quantity of production in new countries is clearly improving. China is a good example. Today it has the fourth largest surface in the world devoted to vineyards. Its wines are slowly, but progressively, proving themselves. On Air China, on my last trip, a Merlot Great Wall impressed passengers more than a good Bordeaux. We asked our heroes, explorers and creators to offer recipes for rapid and lasting success over the next thirty years. They proposed giving absolute priority to professional and managerial training and expressed satisfaction with new governmental attention to promoting Italy’s excellence, with the proviso that it focuses on quality and avoids the mistakes and waste of the XI[\ <PMa QLMV\QÅML \PM 17 DECEMBER 2016
2005
2006
need for a knowledgeable team of producers, consortiums and governUMV\ ÅO]ZM[ \W UISM +]KQVI 1\ITQana synonymous with indigenous products exported from Italy. They saw such efforts as crucial to avoid a repeat of the ‘pizza effect’, a product that is famous in the world but JZQVO[ VW XZWÅ\ \W \PM MKWVWUa I\ home in Italy. The Gambero will continue to offer a wide array of training opportunities, at home and abroad, and a consistent offering of B2B events in all the world’s capitals, to promote both wine and food. The new Top Italian Restaurants in the World guide will spread the word about MI\QVO XTIKM[ \PI\ IZM OZMI\ ÅZ[\Ta because they use ingredients Made in Italy. Today everything points to a great future for the Gambero and for Italy in the world. This is Made in Italy’s great opportunity: it is one of the globe’s best known brands. Tanti auguri, Gambero! Paolo Cuccia Editor-in-Chief and Managing Director
30 YEARS SPECIAL
Fulvio Pierangelini
GAMBERO ROSSO TIMES TWO “WE WERE GIVING BIRTH TO THE FUTURE”
«I
gave Gambero Rosso its name». When he answers his phone, Fulvio Pierangelini is at the St. Petersburg airport, the sound of loud[XMISMZ[ IVL ÆQOP\ IVVW]VKMUMV\[ in the background. His voice has a smile, and we make an appointment. “I’m on my way back. I’ll be home in Rome tomorrow.” Certainly, it wouldn’t have been easy for him to
talk about thirty years of history, of Gambero Rosso, in San Vincenzo, life, of deep passions, while waiting he became the power behind all the on line to board on hotel kitchens of the “A name that the other side of EuRocco Forte group. rope. So we picked up But let’s go back to represented the thread in Rome. the name. Fulvio Italian This is Fulvio’s home Pierangelini is smilbase, but his life now in his casual digs restaurateurs” ing is a continual whirl in Via Margutta. “I around the kitchens of Italy and EuÅVITTa PI^M I PWUM \PI\ NMMT[ UILM rope. After he closed his restaurant, to measure for me – 30 square me-
Gambero Rosso Wine in the App Store
Salt: a book of international recipes and an event
Guide and events dedicated to rosé wines
The Roadshow of Italian Wines is launched
The recipes of a vigneron
Città del gusto opens in Naples
Pop recipes
2007
2008 18 DECEMBER 2016
2009
RICCHI CON I WINEFUND +36,2
Wine Investment
+26,2 +23,4 +19,9
Vintage Wine Nobles Crus
+8,7
Ecco quanto hanno reso nei primi dieci mesi di quest’anno i primi cinque Wine Funds che investono in vini pregiati.
Bianco & Rosso
Gambero Rosso Channel broadcast on Sky 412
2009
Mentre si discute su queste tematiche, ci sono altre urgenze . Cosa non facile da ammettere, soprattutto per il paese che ha di fatto “imposto” il gusto americano nel mondo, fatto di scuri Cabernet e Merlot, di burrosi e vanigliati Chardonnay, il tutto condito dal gusto “chip” (o cheap!) del truciolo. In una parte del mondo si espiantano vigneti ad alberello centenari per far posto a migliaia di nuovi vigneti spesso discutibili del Nuovo Mondo. Da una parte (la nostra) si discute sull’uso della chiara d’uovo come chiarificante mentre altrove dei prodotti consentiti, degli enzimi, dei coadiuvanti in cantina, e lo chiamano progresso. Alla fine, di quale Autenticità parliamo? Da quale pulpito viene la predica?
Gambero Rosso Channel Questa sera alle 21.30 “Anthony Bourdain – No reservation”. Il noto chef e scrittore ci porta in giro per il mondo per farci conoscere ed assaggiare i piatti tipici dei vari paesi. Dall’Inghilterra alla Cina, dall’America al Medioriente, ricette, usi e costumi da vivere come un’avventura.
il quotidiano dei professionisti del vino ®
INVESTIMENTI ALTERNATIVI I WINE FUNDS
Pasticceri & Pasticcerie published
Italian Wines translated into Chinese
www.gualaclosures.com www.savethewines.com
Dalla Vite alla Vite.
Più del 30% da gennaio ad oggi, il 190% negli ultimi cinque anni. Un solo limite: non sono negoziabili in Italia
Il vino? Meglio dell’oro
Il 21% degli italiani si fida e compra laVIGNETTA
laGIORNATA La cantina archistar
2
a pag. s Una winery disegnata da Foster in Spagna.
Cattedrali del vino
Per gentile concessione Accademia Spirito di Vino- Movimento Turismo del Vino della regione Friuli. www.mtvfriulivg.it
di Martina Zanetti
N
ella stagione della Grande Crisi, cos’è che può rendere più del 10% all’anno e arrivare fino al 190% in cinque? La risposta non è l’oro, ma i Wine Fund, cioè i fondi che investono in bottiglie di vino pregiato. I fondi che lo fanno sono una decina tra cui Noble Crus (+8,74% dall’inizio del 2010), Fine Wine Investment Fund (+23,4%), Fine Wine Fund (+26,2%)TheWine Investment Fund (+36,23%) e il Vintage Wine Fund(+19,9%). Il mecSegue a pag. 2 >>>
La birra non ci sta più a essere la cugina povera del vino. E non vuole più essere solo la compagna della pizza.La birra vuole essere trattata come il vino. E farsi presentare da un suo speciale sommelier che è il bartender, il giovanotto che prepara i boccali dalla schiuma perfetta. Detto con altre parole, lo spillatore è diventato un nuovo sommelier. Profes-
sionale e competente al punto di avere una sua gara internazionale come quella appena conclusasi a Praga, organizzata dalla Pilsner Urquell. Il migliore al mondo è ceco ma l’Italia non ha certo sfigurato. Il nostro master bartender Paolo Rossano Cappone è di Cassino. Per provare andate a farvi una birra al Ristotheque (il suo ristorante) e vedrete!
a pag.
Il ritorno di Sideways
NONSOLOVINO
Il sommelier della birra
2
s Concorso del Gambero Rosso e Ordine Arch.
3
oli d’italia
Gambero Rosso Channel: the school, Cucina di classe, the first culinary talent show in Italy
Passeggiando per la rete abbiamo colto un illuminante post di Matt Kramer su Winespectator. com/webfeature/show/ id/43852. A più di due anni dal dibattito sul Brunello e sul Sangiovese ci si interroga ancora, negli States, sul significato della parola autenticità. Ci sono una serie di osservazioni interessanti. Ne citiamo alcune: i disciplinari delle denominazioni d’origine sono state ispirate dai produttori. Non esiste un unico concetto di autenticità... I Brunello di “corretti” con altre uve non sono autentici... Possiamo considerare un vino a denominazione e un vino di annata “autentici” dopo una correzione legale del 15% con vini di altre zone o altre annate? Questo il riassunto di tre pagine fitte fitte... Che dire? In inglese: So much for it! In napoletano: E mo’ ce vo’
TRE
BICCHIERI
FULVIO PIERANGELINI
a pag. s Nuovo
romanzo e nuovo film. Amicizia e vino
Grandi vini al Lingotto
3
a pag. s Più di 300 etichette dalla Banca del Vino.
GamberoRosso
Fine Wine Fine Wine Inv.
Anno1 n. 2 venerdì 22 ottobre 2010 - S. Salomè
ters and a garden where I’ve planted spices and aromatic herbs right here in the heart of Italy’s capital. In reality, the Gambero name doesn’t belong to anyone and belongs to everyone. It was the inn in Carlo Collodi’s book The Adventures of Pinocchio, where the Fox and the Cat took the runaway wooden puppet. There are hundreds of Gambero Rosso restaurants in Italy. Every seaside town has one…” Here, a few steps from Piazza del Popolo, we look back at those days, in the 1980s, when he opened his own legendary restaurant in San Vincenzo, around the same time that the equally renowned Trigabolo in Argenta opened its doors. Gambero Rosso the publication appeared in 1986. “At that time there was a lot
[RACCOLTA 2010]
2011
oli d’Italia i migliori extravergine
273 aziende 376 oli
The weekly Tre Bicchieri is founded Master in Multimedia in Wine and Food at the University Suor Orsolo Benincasa in Naples
The first Foodies guide
First wine events in China
2010
First edition of Oli d’Italia
Gambero Rosso Channel broadcasts in HD
2011 2011 19 DECEMBER 2016
GamberoRosso
formaggi i migliori d’Italia
TRENDS
2012
First Japanese edition of the Vini d’Italia guide
Street Food published
220 aziende 316 formaggi
Pizzerie d’Italia published Formaggi d’Italia published
Città del gusto opens in Palermo
Gambero Rosso
2014 イタリア ワインガイド
Città del gusto opens in Catania Master in Food & Wine Communication at IULM in Milano
２３６０の生産者、２００００本のワインを掲載 ４１５本のトレ・ビッキエーリ（ ）を選出
Grandi Salumi published
８３のワイナリーがトレ・ビッキエーリ・ヴェルディを獲得 １５ユーロ以下のトレ・ビッキエーリは１０７本
講談社MOOK
Città del gusto opens in Torino
2012 2012
2013
CHICKPEA PURÉE WITH SHRIMP
20 DECEMBER 2016
2014
of going on,” Fulvio explained. “Stefano Bonilli and some of his friends had a house near Bolgheri and he came to San Vincenzo all the time, [WUM\QUM[ R][\ NWZ KWNNMM <PM ÅZ[\ meetings about the restaurant guide were held in my place, the Gambero Rosso in San Vincenzo. The inspectors, the collaborators, the whole team came. I cooked and brought food to the table. Some dishes I made perfectly. Others, I purposely made mistakes, so they would understand errors. Stefano met me when I was a young cook with great expectations, although the established food critic Luigi Veronelli, had already written about me. I was on my way up. I remember when the guys from Arcigola from Bra, in Piedmont, and Stefano’s group from the Manifesto in Rome met halfway, in my place in ;IV >QVKMVbW \W LQ[K][[ \PM ^MZa ÅZ[\ guide, the wine guide. They started it together. I remember an article in the Manifesto called “The Fox and the Cat in a pleasant Gambero Rosso.” It
The Roadshow arrives in China Città del gusto opens in Lecce New location for the Città del gusto in Rome
Taiwan: First Top Italian Wines Roadshow
2014
Master in Food & Wine Business at the Luiss Business School in Rome
Città del gusto presented in Romagna
Gambero Rosso s.p.a in the stock market
2015
Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience in English, evolution of the Almanacco dei Golosi
2016
recounted the birth of the magazine plained. “I always go to France to and the meeting between Stefano see my friends, the Troisgros family, Bonilli and Carlo Petrini. That was Vergé. I bring the best Italian ingrethe end of 1986 and the work for the dients with me, extra-virgin olive oil, ÅZ[\ >QVQ L¼1\ITQI O]QLM PIL ITZMILa authentic traditional balsamic vinbegun. There was a strange chemisegar, excellent Parmigiano Reggiano. try with Bonilli that allowed two sons I cook for exclusive Parisian events. of bitches like us to get along.” I supervise the kitchens of great hoToday Fulvio is surprised that he’s not tels in Germany, England, Belgium among the memand Russia, besides “In my dining bers of the Associain Rome and Sicily. tion of Italian AmWho’s more of an amroom, they bassadors of Flavor, JI[[ILWZ \PIV UM'º discussed the a group established During the Forum of after the Food Act first guide, about Cucina Italiana, orlaunched at EXPO by MIPAAF wines, and then, ganized Milano 2015 and on the eve of EXPO among the promo2015, the absence the one about tors, together with of celebrated chef restaurants” the Ministry of AgGualtiero Marchesi ricultural, Food and was talked about, and Forestry Policies (MIPAAF), and the today, the absence of Pierangelini Italian Institute for Foreign Trade among the ambassadors of Italian of The Extraordinary Italian Taste, gastronomy is also noted. a week of focus on Italian cooking Over the last thirty and more years, around the world. “I can’t imagine the two chefs, Pierangelini and Marwhy I wasn’t included,” he comKPM[Q PI^M WN\MV ^MZJITTa [K]NÆML
21 DECEMBER 2016
During the days when a dish called passatina di ceci con gambero rosso – a chickpea purée with a red shrimp – was created by Pierangelini for Niccolò Incisa della Rocchetta, the father of Sassicaia, the San Vincenzo chef thundered about idea theft. His passatina was one of the most copied dishes in the country, along with saffron risotto with gold leaf featured by Marchesi. The Milanese maestro called Fulvio to say there was no VMML \W ÅOP\ I _IZ )N\MZ I NM_ aMIZ[ Pierangelini got over his anger and together with Andrea Petrini, a freelance Italian-French critic and Gambero Rosso writer, and other chefs of Cucina del Nord, launched Gelinaz!, which describes itself as ‘a collective of world-wide cutting edge chefs willing to share knowledge.’ “That’s how I won the battle for copyrighting dishes,” Fulvio smiled. “I gave it up when René Redzepi, from Noma in Copenhagen, began to do things his own way. But I noticed that a little while ago, Marchesi
30 YEARS SPECIAL
FULVIO PIERANGELINI AND CARLO CRACCO DURING THE DINNER FOR THE TRE FORCHETTE AWARDS OF 2008
himself brought up the copyrighting better, to give his personal interpretaof dishes, beginning with his Risotto tion of Mediterranean lightness, a viOro e Zafferano. So this time I called sion of cucina that took into account Marchesi and said, ‘See, I’m always ten the verdant warmth of our peninsula, years ahead of you.’ I was joking, but embraced by two – and more – seas.” it makes you think. When I opened, I Fulvio Pierangelini has lived through was twenty years ahead of my time. these thirty years of cucina italiana – And I think I still am. global as well – fully But they explained to immersed. He always Pierangelini me that it’s not a good seems reserved, but he removed the thing. If you’re modis a tornado of thought ern, it works. If you’re dead weight from and process. He sufahead, they don’t unfered a bit when the classic cucina, phenomenon of Spanderstand you.” The truth is, he relet it slide to the ish chef Ferran Adria ally was always avantdominated food media bottom garde. Raffaella and the world’s kitchPrandi, a renowned ens, when it seemed writer for our magazine, in a Gamthat the Spanish were in charge of bero Rosso book from eleven years the future. Again, he smiled, “My pasago, wrote: “Those were the days of satina, when I present it around the the revolutionary Nouvelle Cuisine. world, is still an amazing dish. No one He was obviously attracted to it, but cares about his deconstructed soup. I at the same time, he vowed to go one work for my living. Ferran Adrià lives
22 DECEMBER 2016
well without doing anything.” Talking about the Spanish reminds him of another battle, this time with the head of the Italian edition of Apicius, Anna Morelli, today the head and editor of Cook_inc. “Anna wanted me to meet the Spanish Apicius staff so they could write about me and my cucina. We met during an event in Spain and they said, ‘We’ll come and eat at your restaurant and decide whether or not \W _ZQ\M IJW]\ aW]Z K]KQVI¼ AW] KIV imagine where I told them to go,” he guffawed. But the argument with Morelli wasn’t about that, but rather about the evident Spanish domination of her publication, about the sensation it gave of subjugation, the attitude towards Italian culinary experience. The translations into Italian were done by the Spanish and were full of errors of grammar and syntax. It was a cultural matter. “It was my battle against cultural subjugation. And I have to say that history has shown me to be right.” As a matter of fact, Anna Morelli left Apicius because of her lack of autonomy in the Italian edition and founded Cook_inc. Fulvio Pierangelini doesn’t have a simple personality. It’s important to establish a rapport with him, have him understand you’re not dangerous. It’s essential to base a relationship with him on truth, that is, on clarity and intellectual honesty, in which you are what you seem to be, without attitude or pretense. That’s why he frequently argues with people, because he allows no room for fakery. Even with the Gambero, the relationship was not friction-free. “I always had Tre Forchette in the restaurant guide,” Fulvio pointed out. Only Marchesi was ahead of him for a few years, “But ÅVITTa 1 \WWS \PM \WX [TW\ 1 ZMUMUJMZ I found out only when I bought the guide. No one said anything to me. Obviously, I was happy. That’s an example of my relationship with Bonilli. He never put me on the cover of the
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30 YEARS SPECIAL
magazine, while he did others, such as Adrià. But I was always there for him. When he had a problem once, they called me to improvise in front of the \^ KIUMZI[ QV \PM ÅZ[\ [\]LQW[ QV \PM Bufalotta neighborhood. I opened the refrigerator and made it up as I went along. I still remember the emotions I felt while preparing four dishes starting with bread, butter and anchovies. A silly thing, a kid’s snack, but in Rome one of the most popular foods. We invented a story, a way to prepare four dishes, live, in front of the cameras. Later, at the Città del gusto, I even washed the windows. My relationship with Laura Ravaioli, the Gambero Rosso television chef, was close and affectionate. I made lunch for Rome’s mayor, Walter Veltroni, at the ribbon-cutting when the +Q\\o ÅZ[\ WXMVML <PM N]\]ZM' 1 LWV¼\ SVW_ IVL 1 LWV¼\ care. I go my way. I feel the lack of rigor in some kitchens, the rarity of the search for a story rather than just a dish. But we each live our own
story. This is a moment of extreme an autograph. But he would never liberty. Certainly, if twenty years ago dream of going on television or apI had had the money to buy a Papearing on programs as many of his cojet, I might have bought one,” he colleagues do. “Before there was an confessed, “and maybe the history Italian version, the BBC invited me of global food would have been difto participate as a guest of honor in ferent.” He grinned, the last episode of Mas“Bread, butter terchef UK. Obviously, ironic, sarcastic. He remembered per- and anchovies: I refused.” At the same fectly when, a few time, he continues to a story in four be Pierangelini and days before, during Igles Corelli’s festival, meet chefs and visit dishes for the to Saperi e Sapori, in restaurant kitchens. “I Lamporecchio, he had Gambero Rosso think I’ve trained at exploded, astonishing least 500 chefs over the Channel” everyone and shoutyears. There’s always ing, in an ultra-modern kitchen sursomeone who stops me on the street rounded by ultrasound machines, to say hello and thank me. I must Pacojets, Gastrovacs, extractors and have given them something.” other gadgets, “Do you know what -UW\QWV[' )K\ZM[[ 3ZQ[\QV ;KW\\ I XW\ TWWS[ TQSM' 1[ \PMZM WVM IZW]VL Thomas had a villa in Tuscany near [WUM_PMZM'º ) XZW^WKI\QWV *]\ Castagneto Carducci, and she conevidently, that “soloist of cucina italistantly invited him to come visit her ana”, as he was called in the subtitle in Paris, but he never went. Sarah of a book published by the Gambero, .MZO][WV \PM ,]KPM[[ WN AWZS Q[ I still makes his mark. Adoring young great fan. (She was at dinner at his chefs still bring the volume to him for Gambero Rosso the evening that Princess Diana died.) She asked him to come work in her luxurious agriturismo in Sassetta, also in the Maremma zone of Tuscany. But he refused her as well. “Basically,” said Fulvio, “I’m exactly the same today as when Ua ÅN\P OZILM \MIKPMZ LM[KZQJML UM He wrote, ‘he reacts only to his internal stimuli. If scolded, he does just the opposite of what he’s supposed to.’ Exactly. Perhaps this is one of the possible futures for Italy’s kitchens. In the world of Italian cucina, there is a pre- and a post-passatina. “Putting together opposite ingredients, making humble products like a bean and a potato the stars while lobster and caviar play supporting roles…today that’s almost common. And who QV^MV\ML \PI\' )TT \PM I\\MV\QWV XIQL to Cinta Senese pork, Paolo Parisi’s MOO[ 4MOPWZV KPQKSMV' )VL \PM ][M of spices since the early 1990’s….” FULVIO PIERANGELINI’S LEGENDARY CRÈME BRÛLÉE Stefano Polacchi
25 DECEMBER 2016
1986 30 YEARS SPECIAL
HAPPENING IN THE WORLD
Harvest: good vintage year. In the USA, microwaveable popcorn appears on the market. In Italy, the Vanzina brothers UISM \PM ÅTU .I[\ .WWL 1\¼[ \PM aMIZ WN \PM UM\PaT ITKWPWT [KIVLIT 7V 5IZKP \PZMM XMWXTM QV 5QTIVW LQM NZWU IL]T\MZI\ML _QVM ,WbMV[ WN KWUXIVQM[ IZW]VL \PM KW]V\Za IZM QV^M[\QOI\ML IVL QV^WT^ML QV _QVM LWK\WZQVO <PM ÅVIVKQIT KWV[MY]MVKM[ IZM QUUMLQI\M *a )XZQT 1\ITQIV _QVM M`XWZ\[ \W .ZIVKM /MZUIVa \PM 6M\PMZTIVL[ IVL \PM =VQ\ML ;\I\M[ LZWX NZWU \W JQTTQWV TQZM 1V \PM ÅZ[\ Y]IZ\MZ ITWVM KWUXIZML \W \PM aMIZ JMNWZM _QVM M`XWZ\[ OW LW_V *a aMIZ¼[ MVL \PM I^MZIOM \]ZV[ W]\ \W JM <PM [MK\WZ Q[ Z]QVML QV \MZU[ WN JW\P QVKWUM IVL KZMLQJQTQ\a <PM ÅZ[\ Q[[]M WN /IUJMZW :W[[W KWUM[ W]\ 7V )XZQT +MZVWJaT M`XTWLM[
The first editorial THE WAR FOR GOOD FOOD «WE’RE AT WAR,
YESTERDAY
a war declared by a small group of very determined and very aware people against businessmen, producers, restaurateurs. Not all, naturally, but definitely against those who constantly,
daily, try to cheat the consumer. Once upon a time the battle was fought among the poor, cheating on weight. Now, in an opulent society, the cheating is about quality. Health laws are ignored, and the client’s ignorance is exploited
The New Gastronomes
C
arlin Petrini is the other SMa _ZQ\MZ QV \PM ÅZ[\ Q[[]M WN /IUJMZW :W[[W 1V his wide-reaching article. he recalls the important, [UWSM ÅTTML UMM\QVO[ WN \PM TMN\ wing groups of the time. He tells how a ‘famous comrade’ criticized the young Piedmontese Petrini’s XI[[QWV NWZ _QVM IVL NWWL" ¹AW] guys from the Langhe are always \ITSQVO IJW]\ MI\QVO AW] [W]VL like country priests.” Then, writes the leader of the Arci Gola group, ¹1 NW]VL W]\ \PI\ \PM »NIUW][ KWUrade’ vacationed in France, systematically visiting good French restaurants. He appreciated their food, service, and extraordinary
KPWQKM WN _QVM[ 1 ZMUMUJMZ \PQ[ detail because it summed up the strange relationship with food and _QVM \PI\ \PM 1\ITQIV 4MN\ PIL NWZ years.” At this point, Carlin Petrini unleashed a sermon against those who were, as he called them in the title. the Neoforchettoni, that is the New Gastronomes, the hypocritical Demochristians who preached virtue in public and practiced ^QKM[ XZQ^I\MTa ¹<PM ÅZ[\ IVL UW[\ QUXWZtant defense is our sensory system,” wrote 8M\ZQVQ ¹6M^MZ
by raising prices 300% - think of wine in many restaurants.” So PW_ LW _M ÅOP\ \PQ[ _IZ' º1\¼[ easy,” writes Stefano Bonilli in PQ[ ÅZ[\ MLQ\WZQIT ¹2][\ LWV¼\ J]a and don’t let others buy a certain product. Create a vacuum
LMIK\Q^I\M WZ ]VLMZ^IT]M Q\ 1N \PM poor victims of methyl alcohol had been attentive tasters, maybe they wouldn’t have drunk that criminal beverage. That kind of large-scale indifference about food is even more contradictory on the part of those who talk about quality of life, or those who have chosen environmental themes as the most important in this historic period.”
G
<PM ÅZ[\ KW^MZ WN \PM /IUJMZW" Q\ _I[ I XIOM QV[MZ\ QV[QLM \PM LIQTa VM_[XIXMZ 1T 5IVQNM[\W <PM QUXIK\ _I[ XW_MZN]T IVL \PM XIXMZ ÆM_ WNN \PM [\IVL[
around a place that hunts for \W]ZQ[\[ \W XT]KS 1\¼[ MVW]OP \W search out those selling quality, which doesn’t always coincide with the highest price.” The tool for orienting the consumer in an increasingly complicated marketplace appears: at the end of 1986, a year marked by the scandal of methanol-tainted wine and the explosion of Cernobyl,
Gambero Rosso is launched. ¹*MKI][M aW] SVW_ Q\¼[ VW\ PIZL \W TQ^M JM\\MZ 1\ LWM[V¼\ \ISM U]KP and these pages try, every month, to be another weapon in winning the war,” concludes the editorin-chief, while wishing Merry Christmas and Buon Appetito to all his readers. Stefano Bonilli
i s e h c r a M o r e i t l THE CONQUEST a u G OF SIMPLICITY Let’s begin with the future…Marchesi proposes a sort of brand of Italian cucina and Italian Style that is linked to well-being and to good taste, as something exportable. What is mature today that 27 DECEMBER 2016
TODAY
wasn’t mature before? ¹.ZWU \PM [\IZ\ Ua KPWQKM _I[ \W UISM Ua ZMKQXM[ M[[MV\QIT \W X]ZQNa \PMU UWLMZVQbQVO \ZILQ\QWV ]XLI\QVO 1\ITQIV cucina, making it more virile, making it lighter compared \W Q\[ UI\ZQIZKPIT WZQOQV[ <PW[M IZM WZQOQV[ \PI\ 1 ZM[XMK\ deeply, especially because women also bring love into their K]KQVI *a LWQVO \PQ[ 1 KW]TL [PW_KI[M QVOZMLQMV\[ )[ \W \PM I_IZMVM[[ WN _PI\ I OWWL QVOZMLQMV\ Q[ 1 \PQVS _M¼^M made considerable progress. The Marchesi brand represents alta cucina, haute cuisine, in the name of simplicity, from the products used to the restaurants, the essence of JMQVO 1\ITQIV <_MV\a aMIZ[ IOW \PM OZMI\ PW\MT[ WNNMZML UM the breakfast room to present CONTINUES ON PAGE 16 hh
Gualtiero Marchesi is the chef who, in the 1970s and 1980s, ZM_ZW\M 1\ITQIV K]KQVI 1V \PM ÅZ[\ /IUJMZW :W[[W O]QLM his Milanese restaurant was at the absolute top. Modern 1\ITQIV LQVQVO JMOIV _Q\P PQU 1V IV QV\MZ^QM_ _Q\P 5IZchesi, alongside a conversation with Massimo Bottura – toLIa KWV[QLMZML \PM JM[\ 1\ITQIV KPMN J]\ _PW JMOIV \W KWWS 30 years, ago, in 1986 – we review the history of the renais[IVKM WN 1\ITQIV NWWL I[ _M SVW_ Q\ \WLIa
GREAT CHEFS
1\ITQIV K]KQVI <WLIa \PMa OQ^M UM \PM most exclusive restaurant.”
XWZ\ JI[ML WV ]VLMZ[\IVLQVO IVL U]\]IT ILUQZI\QWV 1 KIUM JIKS \W 1\ITa IVL I\ \PM IOM WN NWZ\a 1 SVM_ \PI\ my goal was to cook with simplicity, following the rule that the ingredient is form, and showing the relationship between pure beauty and the truly good.”
FROM PAGE 15 hh
5IZKPM[Q¼[ QV 5QTIVW _I[ \PM ÅZ[\ \Z]M \WX Y]ITQ\a modern restaurant. In those years you began to codify Italian food tradition and give it an iden\QÅIJTM [PIXM +IV aW] \MTT ][ [WUM WN \PM QUportant steps along that path? Some episode or anecdote that illuminates that process? ¹<PM ZM[\I]ZIV\ WV >QI *WV^M[QV LM TI :Q^I QV 5QTIVW _I[V¼\ IV QUXZW^Q[I\QWV 1\ MUMZOML NZWU KMZ\IQV M^MV\[ IVL XMWXTM IVL Ua K]ZQW][ KPIZIK\MZ 1N 1 PIL \W TQ[\ \PM KI][M[ 1 _W]TL [\IZ\ _Q\P Ua XIZMV\[ IVL \PM TM[[WV[ 1 learned at their Albergo Ristorante Al Mercato. There, from their style, their choice to have only cooks that had trained in big hotel kitchens and so were familiar with QV\MZVI\QWVIT \PMZMNWZM .ZMVKP \ZILQ\QWV[ 1 TMIZVML \W be open to new things and to an idea of elegance. Then KIUM IV QV\MTTMK\]IT INÅVQ\a IVL KTW[MVM[[ \W -]OMVQW Medagliani, a childhood friend. We amused ourselves KWWSQVO M`XMZQUMV\QVO IVL ÅVLQVO \PM ZQOP\ XW\ NWZ M^MZa [Q\]I\QWV 5MIV\QUM 1 _I[ ZMILQVO KWWSJWWS[ M[XMKQITTa NWZMQOV WVM[ -[KWNÅMZ NWZ M`IUXTM <PMa _MZM LQNNMZMV\ NZWU \PM 1\ITQIV KTI[[QK[ UWZM KWVKMV\ZI\ML WV \MKPVQY]M .QVITTa 1 TMN\ NWZ .ZIVKM IVL [XMV\ UWV\P[ _Q\P \PM <ZWQ[OZW[ NIUQTa _Q\P _PWU 1 PIL I ZMIT ZIX-
?PMV IVL PW_ LQL aW] ÅVL \PM SMa \W \PM K]TQnary pathway of your life? The tie between material culture and spiritual culture, between food and art, between the kitchen and aesthetics? You come from a restaurant family… ¹) LMMX ZM[XMK\ NWZ QVOZMLQMV\[ IVL XZWNW]VL ]VLMZstanding of techniques allow you, at the same time, to not make errors and to get close to the truth of things, to recognize that ethics is part of the word aesthetics. 0I^QVO [IQL \PI\ 1 \PQVS \PI\ \PM [MV[M WN JMI]\a · J]\ 1 _W]TL ILL IT[W \PI\ \PM LM[QZM \W LW \PQVO[ _MTT \W M`press myself gracefully, to be basically modest and at \PM [IUM \QUM ZMTMV\TM[[ QV IKPQM^QVO I Å`ML OWIT · \PM[M qualities were already part of me thanks to my education and personality. Remember also that the restaurant in ^QI *MbbMKKI _PMZM 1 _I[ JWZV _I[ I NI^WZQ\M NWZ IZ\Q[\[ IVL QV\MTTMK\]IT[ 1 PIL I VI\]ZIT \ITMV\ NWZ LZI_QVO =Vfortunately, instead of the Brera art academy, my mother [MV\ UM \W I ^WKI\QWVIT [KPWWT 1 NW]VL IZ\ \PZW]OP U]sic, taking piano lessons for three years from a teacher 28
DECEMBER 2016
\PI\ TI\MZ JMKIUM Ua _QNM 1 TQ^ML IV QV\MV[M K]T\]ZIT TQNM going to theater, visiting art shows and artists’ studios. The SQ\KPMV ITTW_ML UM \W M`XZM[[ Ua[MTN \W\ITTa 1\ _I[ NWZ UM an artistic language.” Many of the young talented chefs of today have come out of your kitchen-workshop. What kind of rapport do you have with the new generations? How did the interaction between you and your students affect the evolution of Italian cucina? Do you have some stories on this theme? ¹1 PI^M IT_Ia[ ]VLMZ[\WWL \PM QUXWZ\IVKM WN \PM ZMTItionship between those who know and those who are TMIZVQVO [WUM\PQVO ?PMV 1 PIL \W TMIZV 1 KWV\QV]ITTa I[SML Y]M[\QWV[ ]V\QT 1 OW\ IV M`PI][\Q^M IV[_MZ <PM [IUM \PQVO PIXXMVML _Q\P \PM aW]VO KWWS[ 1 PIL _WZSing with me. With some of them, we were so close that 1 _W]TLV¼\ JM IJTM \W [Ia _PQKP WN \PM \_W WN ][ _I[ \PM real father of a dish. Sometimes, there was a decision \PI\ LMKQLML \PMQZ XMZ[WVIT N]\]ZM 1 ZMUMUJMZ I aW]VO cook in my brigade who one day made a comment to I _IQ\MZ 1 W^MZPMIZL IVL [IQL \PI\ NZWU \PI\ UWUMV\ PM _W]TL _IQ\ WV \IJTM[ ?PMV 1 [I_ PW_ U]KP PM _I[ IJTM \W LW 1 JMOIV \W \PQVS \PI\ \PM M`XMZQMVKM WN JMQVO QV KWV\IK\ _Q\P \PM X]JTQK _I[ ][MN]T 1¼TT \ISM \PM WXportunity to underline an important phase in my own
ABOVE RIGHT, RED AND BLACK (2006)
PQ[\WZa 1 JMKIUM SVW_V I[ I KPMN I\ \PM \QUM _PMV 6W]^MTTM +]Q[QVM _I[ I JQO \PQVO )\ \PM [IUM \QUM 1 [I_ Q\[ limits almost immediately, and changed the table service. 1V \PQ[ _Ia JM[QLM[ MVPIVKQVO \PM ZWTM WN \PM UI{\ZM WV _PWU \PM []KKM[[ WN I ZM[\I]ZIV\ LMXMVL[ I OZMI\ LMIT 1 also learned the importance of not transforming ingrediMV\[ \WW U]KP WN VW\ XTIaQVO _Q\P \PM LQ[P 1 ]VLMZ[\WWL letting the client see the beauty of a leg of lamb, a pheasIV\ M^MV WN I OZMMV :WUIV KI]TQÆW_MZ _PQTM ILUQZQVO the art of slicing or the use of the press for Chateaubriand, duck or crustaceans.”
A DISH FROM 1981: RICE, GOLD AND SAFFRON
From Milano to Erbusco. What did it mean to you to prepare great cuisine inside one of Italy’s most prestigious wineries? Did the experience lead to positive interactions and growth for the two players, wine and food? ¹.ZIVKQIKWZ\I UMIV\ I ZM\]ZV \W \PM KW]V\Za[QLM I UWment of creativity and in some ways, freedom from UM\ZWXWTQ\IV XI\\MZV[ 1\ _I[ I JMI]\QN]T WXXWZ\]VQ\a I TW^MTa [XIKM IVL UIOVQÅKMV\ KTQMV\MTM 1 LM[QOVML \PMZM I \I[\QVO UMV] ITWVO \PM TQVM[ WN 2IXIVM[M SIQ[MSQ _PMZM a maestro shows the extent of his art. We served the menu on great kauri tables of fossil wood, produced by Ua NZQMVL 5I]ZQbQW :Q^I 1V \PM UMIV\QUM 1 KWV\QV]ML CONTINUE ON PAGE 21 designing tableware, dishes and
GREAT CHEFS FROM PAGE 18 hh
glasses, moving in the direction of a total kitchen, where the container had the same importance as the content. Wine, given our location, was an imXWZ\IV\ ZMITQ\a 1V \PM MIZTQM[\ ! [ I\ )T 5MZKI\W 1 _I[ XMZPIX[ \PM ÅZ[\ \W WNNMZ I _QVM TQ[\ _Q\P \_W P]VLZML IVL ÅN\a TIJMT[ .ZIVKQIKWZ\I IJW^M ITT KMTMJZI\M[ [XIZSTQVO _QVM[ IVL 1 ÅVL \PI\ \PM[M _QVM[ JM[\ ZMXZM[MV\ \PM RWa WN TQNM I _Ia WN JMQVO 1\ITQIV º
PHOTO BY
M. BORCHI
0W_ _W]TL aW] LMÅVM 1\ITQIV K]KQVI QN aW] PIL \W M`XTIQV Q\ \W I +PQVM[M KTQMV\' ) 2IXIVM[M' )V )UMZQKIV' ¹1N LWVM _MTT 1\ITQIV K]KQVI Q[ OZMI\ <PI\ Q[ _PMV Q\ ZMspects the plurality of the microclimates that distinguish the peninsula. Tradition and innovation are the hinges on which everything turns. Our cooking showcases the incredible variety of products and the multiple ways of preXIZQVO \PMU ?PMV 1\ITQIV[ ZMITTa OZI[X \PQ[ · I[ *WK][M ][ML \W [Ia · \PM ZMQOV WN .ZMVKP K]Q[QVM Q[ W^MZ 1 _W]TL LM[KZQJM Q\ \W I +PQVM[M I 2IXIVM[M IV )UMZQKIV I[ IV M`\ZIWZLQVIZa XIV\Za WN ÆI^WZ[ IVL SVW_TMLOM \ZaQVO VW\ to betray it by overdoing or by giving too much space to NI[PQWVIJTM NWZMQOV QVÆ]MVKM º Over sixteen years ago we met for an interview. I was working for Unità and food was something VM_ NWZ \PI\ VM_[XIXMZ <W \PM Y]M[\QWV IJW]\
DRIPPING OF FISH (2004) AND, BELOW, OPEN RAVIOLO (1982)
what was the most enjoyable thing for you, as far as food was concerned, you confessed: ‘to go off someplace to hold a just-made buffalo mozzarella in my hands and take bites out of it.’ Now, in the light of other experiences and the years passed since then, how would you answer the Y]M[\QWV' ¹1¼L [Ia \PM [IUM \PQVO _Q\P \PM LQNNMZMVKM \PI\ VW_ QV Ua ZM[\I]ZIV\ aW] KIV WZLMZ I ÅN\a OZIU UWbzarella served on a black square, in the center of a white plate, and eat it with your hands.” How do you think Italy can and should build on its food and wine power abroad? By what means? Focusing on what? For example, exporting formats and models (products and labels) or importing mostly gourmet tourists that can experience the territories where foods are produced. Or both? ¹<PM UW[\ KWZZMK\ IVL MNÅKQMV\ IXXZWIKP Q[ \W create a strategy that includes both the exportation of culinary and enological culture and the importation of palates that can experience what we have to offer. Let’s CONTINUE ON PAGE 22 VW\ NWZOM\ \PI\ \PM XW_MZ WN 1\IT31 DECEMBER 2016
GREAT CHEFS FROM PAGE 21 hh ian cucina is in its traditions and its XZWL]K\[ ?M PI^M \W \ISM JIKS Âť1\ITQIV [W]VLQVOÂź XZWLucts and work as a team. We didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know how to defend Parmigiano or traditional balsamic vinegar. For the )UMZQKIV[ XQbbI _I[ QV^MV\ML Ja 8QbbI 0]\ )V 1\ITQIV )UMZQKIV XZWL]KMZ Q[ UISQVO I LWK]UMV\IZa Ă&#x2026;TU IJW]\ Ua TQNM /]IT\QMZW 5IZKPM[Q" <PM /ZMI\ 1\ITQIV \PIVS[ \W I XIZ\VMZ[PQX _Q\P 1TTa .MZZIZQ <ZMV\W ;IV 8MTTMOZQVW Parmigiano Reggiano and Maserati, to distribute around \PM _WZTL [\IZ\QVO QV \PM =VQ\ML ;\I\M[ <PQ[ Q[ I OWWL example of what teamwork means.â&#x20AC;?
particularly appealing, although young people donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like it much. Do you remember that the Popeye cartoons QVKZMI[ML [XQVIKP KWV[]UX\QWV Ja XMZKMV\' 1N aW] could, by aiming at both quality and numbers, promote 1\ITQIV \I[\M QV \PM _WZTL Q\ _W]TL JM I OWWL \PQVO ,WVM well, it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make sense to demonize fast food.â&#x20AC;? If you had to give advice to young chefs about their future, what would you tell them. How would you advise them to structure a restaurant WZ IVa MI\QVO XTIKM' ,WM[ Y]ITQ\a XIa' š<PM Ă&#x2026;Z[\ ZM[XWV[QJQTQ\a Q[ \W TMIZV \MKPVQY]M[ ]VLMZstand cooking methods, the possibilities of every kind of food. Make this your medicine, Hippocrates said. The KIXIJTM KWWS Q[ I O]IZLQIV WN X]JTQK PMIT\P 1\Âź[ R][\ I[ important to educate oneself, reading a lot, traveling. The third piece of advice is to pay great attention to the dining room, not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also in terms of service. Contact with clients, the care taken in serving them, in respecting and knowing them, counts for more than half the success of a restaurant. Quality, only that, can repay the economic and spiritual efforts made. These are all themes that we consider in the activities and the course organized by the Accademia Marchesi opened \_W aMIZ[ IOW QV 5QTIVW QV >QI *WV^M[QV LM TI :Q^I ) return to the future.â&#x20AC;? S. Pol.
Today Made in Italy is being felt in fast food, too. You put your name to panini for McDonaldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. How was that experience? What can it teach us about the internationalization of Italian gastronomy? Does it make sense? Is it possible? š1ÂźTT ZMUQVL aW] \PI\ Ua QV\MZ^MV\QWV UILM Q\ XW[[QJTM \W QVKT]LM NWZ \PM Ă&#x2026;Z[\ \QUM QV I 5K,WVITLÂź[ [IVL_QKP ^MOetables such as eggplant and spinach, usually off-limits for \PMU 1\ _I[ I OM[\]ZM 1 \PQVS ZM^WT]\QWVIZa IVL _Q\P UI[[ IXXMIT 1\ _I[ IV M`\ZIWZLQVIZa WXXWZ\]VQ\a \W [PW_ how a simple hamburger can be interpreted for seven hundred thousand clients per day, a third of whom were less than twenty-six years old. One panino was inspired by pasta alla Norma, with eggplant and salted ricotta. The other had spinach and mayonnaise with mustard seeds, making an ingredient that is basic for nutrition
AL MERCATO. GUALTIERO MARCHESI IN 1960
32 DECEMBER 2016
a r u Ʃ o B o m i ƨ Ma FROM TORTELLINI GREAT CHEFS
TO BREAKING WITH TRADITION
TODAY
PHOTO BY PAOLO TERZI
MASSIMO BOTTURA
became a chef/proprietor in 1986, exactly 30 years ago. We’ll review these last 30 years with him, up to the time he was nominated the best KPMN QV \PM _WZTL \PM ÅZ[\ 1\ITQIV \W win) by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016, and the Stivale (boot) in the Gambero Rosso guide, Ris\WZIV\Q L¼1\ITQI 1V \PM VW\ [W LQ[\IV\ XI[\ 7[\MZQI Francescana was often empty. Neither the Modenesi or the food sector critics loved what they were doQVO QV >QI ;\MTTI ¹?PMZM Q[ 1\ITQIV K]KQVI'º \PMa I[SML I[ \PMa NIKML [Q` \WZ\MTTQVQ IZZIVOML QV 1VLQIV ÅTM on a square of capon broth thickMVML _Q\P IOIZ IOIZ ¹)\ \PM [\IZ\ 1 prepared them in broth,” Massimo *W\\]ZI M`XTIQVML ¹1V !! _PMV 1 KTW[ML \PM <ZI\\WZQI +IUXIbbW \PI\ 1 PIL UIVIOML NWZ \MV aMIZ[ IN\MZ ]VQ^MZ[Q\a 1 VMMLML \W JZMIS \PM pattern, do something really new. )N\MZ Ua M`XMZQMVKM I\ 4W]Q[ @> QV L’Hotel di Paris (where a call came from Alain Ducasse in 1993 to ask \PQ[ KPMN NZWU -UQTQI \W ZM^MIT PQ[ secrets to making fresh pasta), it was important to evolve. Only by ‘dirtyQVO ]X¼ UIUUI¼[ ZMKQXM[ KW]TL 1 OM\ them to talk about me.” Bottura’s counterrefor mation began like that, tearing down the idols of an un-
FIVE STAGES OF PARMIGIANO IN DIFFERENT CONSISTENCIES AND TEMPERATURES
touchable culinary religion, powerfully rooted in provincial customs and home-grown habits. After he ZM\]ZVML NZWU 6M_ AWZS IVL \QUM spent running a Soho café with his future wife, Lara Gilmore, his accomplice, partner and advisor, on March 19 he opened the doors to a second life and began putting himself, his memories, his temperament on the table. He practiced an anti-conformity that wasn’t popular, but that fed on criticism, above 34 DECEMBER 2016
ITT \PM [PIZXM[\ WVM[ ¹;Q` \WZ\MTTQVQ aren’t even a tablespoon of a normal portion. The idea was to suggest an awareness of each single ingredient and the creation of these little masterpieces. They wanted to kill me…” The world of the tortellino is tied to his entire childhood, from the time when, as a small boy chased by his older brothers, he hid under the counter where his grandmother was rolling out the pasta. She threatened his pursuers with her rolling pin. There, safe and sound, he stole
PHOTO BY
PAOLO TERZI
GREAT CHEFS
\PM \WZ\MTTQVQ IVL I\M \PMU ZI_ R][\ made. <PM 7[\MZQI .ZIVKM[KIVI R][\ twenty years old, is where Massimo evokes these sensations, combining them with present-day intuitions, his ‘adult’ passions (ranging from Maurizio Cattelan to Billie Holiday to Thelonius Monk), and his attachment to the territory of his JQZ\P *]\ ÅZ[\ IVL IJW^M ITT Q[ the large family where Lara, their children Charlie and Alexa, and the kids on the kitchen staff are all members of a compact, energetic, multi-lingual clan like its leader. 1LMI[ TQOP\ ]X []LLMVTa ¹7VM M^Mning Taka (Takahiko Kondo), my sous chef, dropped one of the two slices of lemon cake. Panic. He would have committed hara-kiri. *]\ 1 _I[ NI[KQVI\ML Ja \PM [XTI[P of lemon zabaglione spread around the plate. And so we invented, ¹7WX[ 1 LZWXXML \PM TMUWV \IZ\ º The revolution that took place over
two decades of an incessant, often problematic creative process has generated a new language for the present generation and a virtuous complexity around the concept of alta ristorazione, top-quality food ser^QKM 1\ Q[ VW_ VW\ WVTa I Y]M[\QWV of an elite completely separate from the dynamics of the larger swath of KWV[]UMZ[ ¹)N\MZ \PM MIZ\PY]ISM three years ago, the Consorzio del Parmigiano Reggiano risked bankruptcy: 360 wheels of cheese were LIUIOML ;W 1 \PW]OP\ IJW]\ I ZQKM cacio e pepe dish, and a huge dinner that would have involved thousands of people, all of them, from London to Tokyo, preparing the same plate with the Parmigiano from those forms. The recipe became a gesture of solidarity and the Consorzio was saved.” The same ideas underlay the Refettorio Ambrosiano where, for \PZMM UWV\P[ L]ZQVO -`XW NWZty of the best chefs in the world used the fair’s excess food and cooked for 36 DICEMBRE 2016
OSTERIA FRANCESCANA | MODENA | VIA S TELLA , 22 | TEL . 059 223912 | WWW . OSTERIAFRANCESCANA . IT hundreds of indigents. That concept led to the Food for Soul Foundation and became an exportable format, MUJTMUI\QK WN I 5ILM QV 1\ITa \PI\ Q[ ÅVITTa KPIVOQVO Q\[ QUIOM <WLIa the waiting list for a meal in Modena is months long, partly thanks to the power of the media coverage of his recent successes, and partly because clients are curious to see a place where the future is written by the best tagliatelle al ragù of your life, and the culinary avant-garde sees itself in a banana peel ice cream served in the favelas of Rio (last stop of RefettoRio, created for the occasion). Bottura is running against the wind, in New Balance and with the memory of a raw tortellino. Val. Ma.
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2016
HAPPENING IN THE WORLD
30 YEARS SPECIAL
Harvest: not an exceptional year, neither in Italy nor around the world. Coldiretti: a street food boom, with 2,271 businesses (up 13%) that are replacing the kebab fad. Many Italian municipalities and important cities have mayoralty elections, among which are Rome, Naples, Torino and Milan. In Rome and in Torino, the candidates for the 5-Star Movement, led by Beppe Grillo, win. The European soccer championships are held in France: Portugal beats France. Terrorist attacks in Turkey â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in Istanbul and Ankara. Islamic extremists attack in France: in Nice, in July, an assault on the seaside promenade. Turkey in July is under siege: a coup dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;etat fails and Erdogan silences and jails tens of thousands of regime opponents. August: Olympics in Brazil. The United States has a new president: Donald Trump beats Hilary Clinton. The world is at a turning point and global politics considers its direction. Italy votes against constitutional change.
TODAY
m a e r d A
38 DECEMBER 2016
The Gambero celebrates its 30th anniversary and that of Vini d’Italia with an historic tasting of the iconic Italian wine, Sassicaia. The best-known critics in the world take part
l a c i vert ng i t s ta
Sassicaia, Jermann, Berlucchi have been produced to date (from 1968 to 2013) and UIVa WN \PM WTLM[\ WVM[ IZM XZIK\QKITTa ]VÅVLIJTM 5IZchese Niccolò Incisa della Rocchetta, owner of the Tenuta di San Guido in Bolgheri, was enthusiastic about the idea and wanted to share with us gems from his personal wine cellar. It took months of work, of telephone calls and location inspections involving us and Carlo Paoli, head of the Tenuta, to put together every detail, from the setting to the shipping to the storing of the wine. But at the end, everything went perfectly. In an historic setting, the apartment of Pope Innocent X in Piazza Navona, next to the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone, facing the Four Rivers fountain of Bernini, in four sessions, morning and afternoon, together with Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta and Carlo Paoli, we revisited all the vintages of Sassicaia. The predecessor of Supertuscans, an elegant wine of international stature thanks to the labors of the great enologist Giacomo Tachis, it revealed its secrets progressively. We experiMVKML M`\ZIWZLQVIZa INÅZUI\QWV[ TQSM \PM XMZNMK\ PMIT\P WN \PM ! ^QJZIV\ IVL ^Q\IT \PM KWVÅZUI\QWV WN OZMI\ vintage years such as ’79, ’82 and ’85, the thrilling promise of ’01 and ’13. Waves of emotion and memories, personal and enological, moved and CONTINUE FROM PAGE 250 hh
1\ _I[ I KPWQKM \W _MISMV \PM SVMM[ ?M VMMLML \W ÅVL the essence of thirty years of our guide, hundreds of thousands of tastings, and elect the three representatives that were emblematic – obviously among many others that equally merited that distinction – of contemporary wine in its three classic types: sparkling, white and red. ?M KPW[M <PM LMMX [QOVQÅKIVKM WN W]Z [MTMK\QWV[ _I[ KWVÅZUML Ja \PM RWa _Q\P _PQKP \PM UW[\ QUXWZ\IV\ RW]Znalists and tasters in the world participated in the three vertical tastings in Rome organized for the thirtieth anniversary of Gambero Rosso and the Vini d’Italia guide: an historic event, unique, unrepeatable. Red. Sassicaia is the most famous Italian wine in the world. The adventure of the Incisa della Rocchetta family in Bolgheri was recounted by Priscilla, daughter of Marchese Niccolò and the latest generation of the family. With the 1985 vintage and its stellar scores, the world realized that Sassicaia is one of Italy’s masterpieces and, above all, Italian wine began to realize that it has less reason to envy its French cousins. Every serious professional has done one or more vertical tastings of Sassicaia over the years. Many of us, individually, had already tasted all the vintages at one time or another. Forty-four vintages
39 DECEMBER 2016
VINI D’ITALIA
JERMANN
involved us for an entire day. Sassicaia is a matchless wine that, as Serena Sutcliffe pointed out, “is also a wonderful drink.” White. The following day was the turn of another iconic wine, Vintage Tunina made by Silvio Jermann. He came to the tasting along with his son Michele and his winery director, Edi Clementin. Why Vintage Tunina? Silvio released it on the market in 1976, exactly forty years ago. It is an elegant blend of international grapes (chardonnay and sauvignon blanc) and indigenous ones ((ribolla gialla, malvasia istriana and picolit), It pointed to a new pathway with its elegant stylistic composure, the fragrance of its aromas, its depth, but also, and above all, the simple pleasure of drinking it. It is an enological masterpiece that in 20 vintages has shown that it can defy time. The tasting of the 1979 (the oldest vintage tasted) was an epiphany. It left even the most skeptical palates among us astonished by its longevity. With Vintage Tunina, white wines found a role model. It was a bottle that found a new path, didn’t seek to imitate
\PM OZMI\ NWZMQOV TIJMT[ J]\ [PW_KI[ML UIOVQÅKMV\Ta the grapes of its zone and the extraordinary terroir of \PM +WTTQW _Q\P Q\[ KTMIV UWLMZV M[[MV\QIT ^QVQÅKI\QWV For some years now, Vintage Tunina has been released with a screw top. In a tasting in 2006, both versions were offered in blind tastings. The verdict of the best palates in the world was that the screw top version offered a sounder and more fragrant wine than the cork. So Tunina again indicated a new path to all of Italy’s white wine makers. Sparkling. Cantina Guido Berlucchi and the Ziliani family: to them we owe the birth of the Franciacorta that we know today. Their wine is one of the benchmarks of the Metodo Classico in Italy, their terroir among the most successful. In the cellars of the palazzo of our friend Guido Berlucci in Borgonato di Cortefranca, in Franciacorta, enologist Franco Ziliani (later a partner and now the winery owner) gave life not only to a premium metodo classic wine, but rediscovered in a sparkling key one of the great terroirs of Italian enology.
FROM PAGE 249 hh
BERLUCCHI
40 DECEMBER 2016
WWW.FERRARITRENTO.IT
THE ITALIAN ART OF LIVING
Venezia, Piazza San Marco ore 4:54
VINI Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ITALIA
SASSICAIA
Ziliani, now over eighty years old, did not want to miss this appointment with Gambero Rosso and the international press. He described his professional life from PQ[ LQXTWUI NZWU )TJIÂź[ [KPWWT WN MVWTWOa \W PQ[ Ă&#x2026;Z[\ trips to France to study the secrets of refermentation, and then the epic story of the winery that he created, today headed by his children, Arturo, also an enologist, Cristina (both present) and Paolo. From his vision of the time, a phenomenon was born, Franciacorta, that today means sixteen million bottles and over 100 winegrowers, among which is Guido Berlucchi with 4.5 million bottles, the best represented label on the Italian market as well as abroad. Twelve great wines from 1988 to 2008, ranging from the CuvĂŠe ExtrĂŞme di Palazzo Lana to monovarietal Pinot Nero from the top line of the winery, to the CuvĂŠe Vintage of the famBERLUCCHI. A TOAST TO FRANCO ZILIANI AND THE 30 YEARS OF GAMBERO ROSSO
ilyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s personal reserve, disgorged for the occasion, took ][ WV I RW]ZVMa WN \PM UIQ[WV IVL Q\[ \MZZQ\WZa <PMa gave us another opportunity to toast the extraordinary talent of Italian enologists, their capacity to transform their dreams into great wines, and to share all this with group of colleagues from around the world, who travMTML \W [PIZM _Q\P ][ \PM RWa WN \PQ[ QUXWZ\IV\ M^MV\ The two days of great vertical tastings closed with a toast to the Gamberoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thirty years, but also to that great personality of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recent wine history, Franco Ziliani. In ! PM UILM \PM Ă&#x2026;Z[\ JW\\TM[ WN _PI\ _W]TL JMcome one of the most classic Italian spumantes. For us at the Gambero, though, these 30 years are not a destiVI\QWV J]\ IV QUXWZ\IV\ UIZSMZ WV I RW]ZVMa \PI\ [\QTT promises to be long and fascinating. E. G.
JERMANN
e n i e l e d a M h t e r w n MILLENNIALS Ste AND SUSTAINABILITY FOR THE FUTURE VINI D’ITALIA
“When I started out in 1990, the selection of Italian wines was extremely limited. I worked in the family restaurant and it was very rare for a client to order wine. It was rarer still if they knew anything IJW]\ Q\ <PM ÅZ[\ 1\ITQIV _QVM[ 1 remember were basic versions of Soave and Verdicchio, and a few Tuscan ones – the straw-covered bottles of Chianti that people used as candleholders when they were empty.” Madeleine Stenwreth, Swedish Master of Wine, is one of the most sensitive and sophisticated palates we encountered during our international travels. Since her early days, the Italian wine and food panorama in Sweden has radically changed. The shelves are laden with labels today in the wine shops of Systembolaget, the state monopoly in charge of retail sales. Madeleine loves Nebbiolo in its purest and most essential version. Then she met Aglianico: “In recent years, some producers have lightened the dense tannic texture, allowing a ÆWZIT KPIZU \W MUMZOM º 1\¼[ VW\ I coincidence that Aglianico is nicknamed, ‘the nebbiolo of the South’. But, she warns, “In Italy, producers still see their colleagues as dangerous competitors instead of playing as a team and uniting to become stronger as a nation. The Gambero Rosso mission is to inspire and educate the world’s consumers, inform them about your treasure trove of indigenous varieties and presenting
them as a single nation,” Madeleine also hopes for “a leap in awareness about the variety of bottle-sealing options, with alternatives to cork, such as high quality screw tops.” The most successful wines in Sweden? “There’s a strange phenomenon at work now. Amarone and Ripasso are popular, with volume high, but quality down. It began with slogans such as Apassimento, then strange names like Passitivo, Passivento, Appassionata, Passionem, A Passo, Passimiento… In any case, Nebbiolo is the wine that is best loved and best known, while Nerello Mascalese is trending upwards well.” But Italy has many wines, labels and varieties. “Consumers and experts both need guidance. I particularly appreciate Gambero Rosso’s work during its global tour, stimulating and educating consumers and communicators about great wines. It is an important role for a great mission.” For the future, Madeleine notes two trends: “On one hand, the Millennials will be more capable of identifying themselves with a brand, and therefore label design and the underlying story will gain in importance. On the other hand, we will be oriented (I hope) towards environmental factors, by sustainability and honesty.” Lo. Ru.
The soul of Barone Pizzini It embodies the living nature of its vineyards This wine is the crowning achievement of a long process of pionering renewal, that led Barone Pizzini to become the first organic grower and winemaker in Franciacorta.
CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REGOLAMENTO CE N. 1308/13 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EC) REGULATION NO. 1308/13
VINI D’ITALIA
THE 13 KEY FIGURES IN THE WORLD OF WINE WRITING
MONICA LARNER. Robert Parker - The Wine Advocate KERIN O’ KEEFE. Wine Enthusiast SERENA SUTCLIFFE. Sothebys - Master of Wine DMITRY FEDOTOV. Supervision board of the Union of winegrowers and winemakers of Russia WINIFRED BOWMAN. Cape Wine Master - Platter Wine Guide ANDREAS LARSSON. Best Sommelier of the World 2007 - World of Fine Wine MADELEINE STENWRETH. Master of Wine – Prime Wine Group THIERRY DESSAUVE. Guide Des Vins de France Bettane + Dessauve TOMASZ PRANGE-BARCZYNSKI. Wino Magazyn VERONIKA CRECELIUS. Weinrwirtschaft JANE ANSON. Decanter - Writer of the Year per International Wine Writers’ Award 2016 MARCELO COPELLO. Baco Media ELLA LISTER. Decanter - Wine Lister
THE WINERY
Stefania Annese contributed
COLLALTO. The Prosecco Princess
â&#x20AC;&#x153;T
he Collalto story is about passion and love for wine, personal qualities that go back more than one thousand years and are still strong todayâ&#x20AC;?. Princess Isabella Collalto de CroŕĽ&#x201A; eldest daughter of Prince Manfredo Collalto, describes the values that have inspired her family for centuries in their direction of one of the most extensive winegrowing estates in the Treviso province. The Marca Trevigiana area is home to the Suseganabased winery, built in 1904 and today I UWLMZV MNĂ&#x2026;KQMV\ \MKPVWTWOQKITTa sophisticated operation. The estate comprises over 250 hectares, with 50 planted to vineyard; its annual production averages 850,000 bottles, of which over 550,000 are Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG and the remainder white and red still wines and a sparkling RosĂŠ.
â&#x20AC;&#x153;Our residence, originally a Lombard settlement, is named after the village of Collalto, which today is a part of the commune of Susegana, in the province of Trevisoâ&#x20AC;?, explains Princess Isabella Collalto de CroŕĽ&#x201A;. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Collalto name appears in ofĂ&#x2026;KQIT LWK]UMV\[ LI\QVO JIKS \W ! when Berengar II, then king of Italy, granted the corte of Lovadina to my ancestor, Count Rambaldo I of Collalto. Wine always played a prominent role in the family history; at one time, wine was even produced within the family castle. But in 1904, the family built the extensive facility you see today, which we currently use for the Collalto Wine-Store as wellâ&#x20AC;?. Management of the estate has been in Isabella Collaltoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hands since 2007. Since then she has focused on winegrowing, following in the footsteps of her father, Manfredo di Collalto. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We use only the grapes that we
48 NOVEMBER 2016
ourselves grow on our 150 hectares of estate vineyardsâ&#x20AC;?, explains Isabella +WTTIT\W š>QVQĂ&#x2026;KI\QWV [\QTT \ISM[ XTIKM in the historic Susegana facility, built in 1904, since respect for the architectural qualities of our century-old building is very important to us. Right next to the large oak ovals from 1904, no longer used but still visible witnesses to the history of our winery, wine production takes advantage of cutting-edge technology and equipment required today to make high-quality wine: stainless-steel pressure fermenters, steel storage tanks, oak barrels and larger casks, and cement tanks. The advanced-technology bottling line can process up to 2,200 bottles of sparkling wine per hourâ&#x20AC;?. Over the years, the facility has always been active, but today the wines it produces are of an extremely high level of quality. Collalto produces nine styles of sparkling wine, fourteen non-sparkling wines, and a grappa. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Today, we take for granted the concept that the production of quality wine begins with responsible viticulture, which means, among other things, low yields and healthy grapes. Over time, awareness of the importance of sustainable viticulture has grown, and so has our commitment to itâ&#x20AC;?, Isabella Collalto continues. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Oenology School of Coneg-
TQIVW \PM ÅZ[\ _QVM QV[\Q\]\M QV 1\ITa founded in 1876, has always played a fundamental role in the growth and improvement of Treviso’s wine industry. Our winery has always worked closely as well with the Institute for Research in Agriculture and Viticulture, also in Conegliano, ever since the days of Professor Luigi Manzoni, who developed the famous Incrocio Manzoni grape varieties. Moreover, the highly-respected vineyard consultants Simonit & Sirch have helped us to bring our vineyard management XZIK\QKM[ \W I PQOP TM^MT WN MNÅKQMVKa Thanks to them, we have managed to nourish and protect our vineyards and to grow sound, healthy grapes”. The Collalto family has always paid meticulous attention to the protection and development of the grape varieties native to the Treviso area, as well as to the Incrocio Manzoni varieties, to international grapes, and to the
prestigious red Wildbacher, a variety from Styria, in Austria. “Our winery is the only one to produce wines from four of the Incrocio Manzoni crosses. We also make a monovarietal Verdiso, a native white grape that competed with Prosecco in the 19th century. Another native, Bianchetta, plays a ^IT]IJTM ZWTM QV \PM [MV[WZa XZWÅTM WN our sparkling wines”. She continues, “Wildbacher, a variety that originated in Austria, was brought to Italy by Count Antonio Rambaldo di Collalto in the 18th century. It has a very small berry, full of seeds, which makes the OZIXM LQNÅK]T\ \W ^QVQNa [QVKM \PM [MML[ must be removed as soon as possible to allow the juice to macerate longer on the skins. The wine then requires lengthy aging in large barrels to soften its aggressive nature. It’s a long-lived wine, of deep ruby and vibrant highlights. The bouquet is marked by intense blackberry and ripe plum, and
49 NOVEMBER 2016
the palate by dense tannins. Overall, it is fresh, and a tad rustic, yet elegant”. The terroir of the Collalto vineyards enjoys its own very favourable climate, and soils tend to clay, over a limestone base. Sun exposure is ideal, breezes constant, and summer experiMVKM[ [QOVQÅKIV\ LIa VQOP\ \MUXMZIture differentials. These factors favour the production of superb wines that are much in demand both in Italy and abroad. “Prosecco is enjoying a particularly felicitous moment in many international markets. Our sales cer\IQVTa JMVMÅ\ NZWU \PQ[ UIZSM\ \ZMVL and results are very positive not only in Italy but also in our principal export markets: United States, Great Britain, Switzerland, Germany and Belgium, to mention just a few”, says Isabella Collalto. “Demand is currently focused on our Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG, of course, but we’re seeing excellent performances by some of our reds, too, particularly the Riservas”. Collalto’s determination to continuously strive for ever-higher quality is evident in the many new projects underway at the winery. “In recent months, we have launched an important program that will involve the entire business: I want to integrate the various sectors of our activity – vineyards, winery, and marketing and sales”, Isabella concludes. “Viticulture is landscape, and aesthetics, but it’s also culture, sensitivity and respect for people and the environment. We want to introduce an even more eco-friendly approach in vineyard management practices, which involves training our staff to achieve consistently high-quality fruit and environmental sustainability. Micro-zonation will allow us to identify and further enhance the potential of each single parcel and vineyard. In the winemaking facility, I intend to focus more on research, collaborating even more closely with the oenology schools, research institutes, and universities with whom we have been working for decades now”.
a n i t r o o z z e C mp A ’ d
PHOTO BY D. G. BANDION
TRAVEL
Francesca Fiore contributed
The Queen of the Dolomites
An area that doesn’t need much of an introduction, and certainly offers up way more than snowy peaks and ski slopes. In our mountain series, here are the best places to eat and drink – or simply grab a coffee – in Cortina d’Ampezzo.
TRAVEL
GROSTL
BASILICA DEI SANTI FILIPPO E GIACOMO
I
f the Dolomite peaks are among Italy’s most fascinating, Cortina d’Ampezzo is surely the queen among them. Cortina d’Ampezzo is located in the Valle del Boite valley between Cadore to the south, Val Pusteria to the north, Val d’Ansiei to the east and Alto Agordino to the west. A town which transforms _Q\P \PM ÅZ[\ [VW_NITT IVL JWI[\ing 120 km of ski slopes, Cortina d’Ampezzo is hands down heaven for winter sports lovers. In addition to this, Cortina d’Ampezzo offers more: breathtaking panoramas in every season, historically important churches and monuments, art and outdoor sports of all kinds, plus a fair amount of high society sophistication. Above all, an interesting food scene. At the heart of the Conca d’Ampezzo basin, the queen of the Dolomites is the largest and most well-known of the 18 municipalities that make
up Ladinia, an Alpine region within the provinces of Belluno, Bolzano and Trento. The language spoken here is still Ladino, and Romance language whose deep-seated roots plunge in the Central European culture. The Conca ampezzana is PMVKM WNÅKQITTa JQ TQVO]IT" ITT [QOnage is in both Italian and Ladino. Strolling among its cobbled streets the town presents an animated historic centre with many points of interest. Starting from central piazzetta San Francesco is the Basilica dei Santi Filippo e Giacomo, patron Saints of the town. The cathedral was built between 1769 and 1775 on the site where two churches had been previously built in the XIII and XVI centuries. Adjacent is the actual symbol of the town, the 230-foot bell tower.
Not far is also Cia܈a de ra regoles (the House of Rules) that used to be the local town hall and that now houses modern art museum Mario Rimoldi, which is one of the three Regole d’Ampezzo museums with Museo paleontologico Rinaldo BIZLQVQ IVL 5][MW M\VWOZIÅKW Regole d’Ampezzo. Continuing along the central streets is the pulsating heart of the shopping district, home to several art galleries too. During summer Cortina becomes an art gallery P]J _Q\P XIZ\QKQXIV\[ ÆW_QVO QV from all parts of Italy. Among the most renowned names are Contini from Venice, Farsetti prom Prato, Proietti from Spello. If in Cortina during the heat of summer do consider making a stop at Lake Misurina, a splendid natural lake
CANEDERLI
SKI SLOPES
Cortina is part of the greater Dolomiti Superski circuit and offers several unified slopes in the Tofane, Faloria-Cristallo-Mietres andl Lagazuoi-5 Torri areas. Paths are connected with two ski lift systems, the 4-seater chairlift Piè Tofana and the 3-seater chairlift Pomedes. The most famous slope is Olympia delle Tofane, famous venue for important downhill ski World Cup. For cross-country skiing there are 50 km worth of trails with various paths divided according to difficulty in Fiames and, in particular, the path that runs along the old railway line, the so-called Dolomite Bikepath, or Proménade.
Other local specialties are Gulasch süppe, a meat entree whose origini s clearly Hungarian and that’s very popular in the area; and bold and full-bodied meat dishes, like game casserole served with cranberry jams, braised pork chops, plus grostl, and Austrian potato and meat pie, in addition to cured meats like speck, soppresse, ossocolli and avrious salamis. A typical side dish served in Cortina is patate ampezzane, cubed potatoes that are boiled and then sauteed with onion and speck. Cortina boasts an ancient and rich creamery tradition with an ample production of high altitude pasture cheeses which are generally not very aged. Among the most loved are Contrin, Fodòm, Renàz, Schiz, Tosela, Zumelle and Zigher. As far as desserts, you’ll be spoiled for choice in Cortina: apfelstrudel, classic apple strudel, furtaies, which are fried crostoli pastries, nighele and krapfen ÅTTML _Q\P XI[\Za KZMIU WZ IXZQKW\ RIU ricotta cakes and the classic Sacher torte, layered with apricot jam.
©ARCHIVIO DOLOMITI TURISMO
WINTER SPORTS THE CORTINA
at 1754 metre elevation, located in the Auronzo area. <PM K]Q[QVM WN \PQ[ IZMI Q[ WVM QVÆ]enced by the nearby borders: Tyrole and Apsburg cookery blend with the locat Veneto tradition creating a unique style. Many typical dishes carry original German names as a sign of the tight bond the locals have in regards to their past. Among the most famous dishes is chenedi, a local spinoff of Tyrole canederli, or knodel, JZMILKZ]UJ L]UXTQVO[ ÅTTML _Q\P speck, lard, spinach and cheese that come served either swimming in hot broth, or dressed with brown butter. Of clear German and Central European origin is pestariei" XQMKM[ WN ÆW]Z and water dough that are cooked in salted milk: this was a typical local breakfast. From the Veneto region comes the tradition of eating polenta, risi e bisi (risotto with peas), faariesa, which is a soup of fava beans and barley; pastìn, which is a dumpling made with coarsely ground salami, garlic and spices, which is then grilled.
53 DECEMBER 2016
TRAVEL
ADDRESSES WHERE TO EAT AGA| HOTEL VILLA TRIESTE | SAN VITO DI CADORE (BL) | VIA TRIESTE, 6 | TEL. 0436 890134 | WWW.AGARISTORANTE.IT Featuring what is born and raised in the mountains is the goal of zero vertical kilometre philosophy IXXTQML QV \PM SQ\KPMV I[ LMÅVML Ja 7TQ^MZ 8QZI[ and Alessandra del Favero. Aga of hotel Villa Trieste is one of the newer dining destinations for Italian gourmands. The cuisine style is modern and can be savoured thanks to the eclectic tasting menu, which can be vegetarian. Compact yet well structured wine list. Impeccable service. AL CAPRIOLO | VODO CADORE (BL) | VIA NAZIONALE, 108 | TEL. 0435 489207 | WWW.ALCAPRIOLO.IT The Gregorio family has been at the helm of this restaurant for the past 200 years, managed with impeccable competence. The ambiance is cosy furnished with classic pieces, in striking contrast with the modern kitchen. With a measured amount of traditional dishes, it surprises patrons with modern accents. The tasting menu is articulate and can be tweaked to suit any request. Next door to the restaurant is Il capriolino, an informal osteria with local fare. BAITA FRAINA | CORTINA D’AMPEZZO (BL) | LOCALITÀ FRAINA, 1 | TEL. 0436 3634 | WWW.BAITAFRAINA.IT 7VTa I NM_ UQTM[ NZWU \PM KMV\ZM WN +WZ\QVI Q[ I lodge with views of the Tofana chairlifts. Eddy and Wolly Calzà offer a cuisine based on local ingredients that are never predictable. The wine offer is ample and includes regional, Italian and French labels. Service, one of the restaurant’s strong points, is impeccable. The staff is always available to oblige any request.
54 DECEMBER 2016
CHALET AMADEUS | CORTINA D’AMPEZZO (BL) | LOC. VEROCAI, 73 | TEL 0436 867541 | WWW.RISTORANTEAMADEUSCORTINA.IT In the kitchen of the new restaurant owned by the Moretti family is Tuscan chef Nicola Fedeli. His menu employs local products with a touch of creative innovation. The tasting menu and desserts are equally elegant and worthy. The wine list is evolving. BOTON D’ORO| AURONZO DI CADORE (BL) | VIA CIMAGOGNA, 1 | TEL. 0435 400097 | WWW.BOTONDORO.IT Forerunner of modern foodie hubs, the place houses a coffee shop, deli, wine bar and restaurant. Strategically located the room has sweeping views on Cadore. Excellent homemade cheeses and cured meats all sourced from the family farm. The cuisine Q[ ÆI^W]ZN]T IVL NMI\]ZM[ TWKIT [XMKQIT\QM[ 6MML IV optician? It’s there too. RIFUGIO MONTE AGUDO| AURONZO DI CADORE (BL) | LOCALITÀ MONTE AGUDO | TEL. 0435 400522 At 1573 metre elevation is an excellent dining destination with local specialties and killer views. The dishes are homespun but impeccably executed; ingredients are local and the welcome is warm and friendly. Rooms available in the mountain lodge. Interesting wine list, graced with several important regional labels.. SKI BAR | PIEVE DI CADORE (BL) | VIA CORTINA, 11 | TEL. 0435 500095 | WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/PG/ TRATTORIA-SKI-BAR-TAI-DI-CADORE--250645331626788/ ABOUT/?REF=PAGE_INTERNAL Those seeking to delve in the area’s local dishes, in particular game should keep this place in mind. Ski JIZ QV 8QM^M LQ +ILWZM Q[ I KW[a IVL QVNWZUIT MI\MZa serving well-executed plates made with mostly local ingredients. Great attention is given to food allergies and special requests.
UNTERBERGER |PERAROLO DI CADORE (BL) | VIA REGINA MARGHERITA, 33 | TEL. 0435 71218 The place to taste the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous speciality: speck from Cadore, a prized cured meat made the same way in 70 years, and typical of an wild and untouched part of the region. The business is family owned since 2013 by the Bonazza family, whose main focus is bringing new life to a high quality product QV WZLMZ \W \ZIV[NWZU Q\ QV\W \PM IZMI¼[ Ã&#x2020;I^W]Z ambassador. The shop also sells all manner of high quality delicatessen. EMBASSY|CORTINA Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;AMPEZZO (BL) | CORSO ITALIA, 44 | TEL. 0436 060333 | Key destination in Cortina, both for its position and for its food offer. Rich and varied breakfast foods like brioches, krapfen, croissants, pain au chocolate and much more. The strong point here is the crostate and cakes, with Sacher Torte and Black Forest in the lead. Excellent espressos and KIXX]KKQVW[ UILM _Q\P )ZIJQKI JTMVL 7V \PM savoury side are panini, sandwiches, salads and complete meal dishes. Notable wines served by the glass including Champagnes.
LOVAT |CORTINA Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;AMPEZZO (BL) | CORSO ITALIA, 65 | TEL. 0436 3307 | This centrally located pastry shop is very popular among locals and vacationers for its desserts and savoury snacks. Elegant and cosy with impeccable service this is the place for sinful breakfast or après-ski with slicers of cake, croissants, homemade tarts, pastries and chocolate. Great place for lunch and aperitivo too. 48 +WZ\QVI L¼)UXMbbW 8ZW[KQ]\\W JIZ KWNNMM PW][M KWKS\IQT JIZ ZM[\I]ZIV\ 48 Q[ +WZ\QVI¼[ UW[\ U]T\Q NIKM\ML eatery. The high quality food offer is varied and interesting: ranging from 100% Arabica coffees and breakfast pastries to local cuisine featuring prized prosciutto, by way of a well-stocked wine cellar. The place is crowded at aperitivo time \PIVS[ \W \PM M`KMTTMV\ KWKS\IQT[ IVL TQ^M WZ ,2 [M\ music. LA SUITE |CORTINA Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;AMPEZZO (BL) | P.ZZA VENEZIA, 6 | TEL. 0436 3310 This is another popular aperitivo hangout as well as for coffee. Laid back and informal, the JZMISNI[\ UMV] NMI\]ZM[ U]NÃ&#x2026;V[ JZQWKPM[ IVL I[WZ\ML KWWSQM[ .WZ T]VKP aW] KIV Ã&#x2026;VL XIVQVQ charcuterie and salads. Strong points are cocktails and the wine list with important labels, offered by the glass also. FIORI | SAN VITO DI CADORE (BL) | CORSO ITALIA, 7 | TEL. 0436 890158 | WWW.HMFIORI.IT/PASTICCERIA A very popular pastry shop managed by the same family, and founded at the beginning of the century. Excellent croissants, homemade \ZILQ\QWVIT KISM[ IVL SZIXNMV IVL Ã&#x2026;VM X]ZM Arabica blend espressos. The interesting aperitivo offer includes tasty snacks and well-respected wine labels.
PHOTO BY D. G. BANDION
DA VIÃ&#x20AC; |DOMEGGE DI CADORE (BL) | VIA FERDINANDO COLETTI, 104 | TEL. 0435 32289 | WWW.PASTICCERIADAVIA.IT 8I[\Za [PWX JISMZa IVL LMTQ TWKI\ML QV ,WUMOOM di Cadore. Great place for breakfast and midafternoon snacks the bakery churns homemade traditional and modern pastries and desserts every LIa 7^MZ \aXM[ WN JZMIL KISM[ JQ\M [QbML \IZ\[ plum cake loaves, panettone and strudels. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an interesting savoury offer as well, which includes bite-sized panini, tea sandwiches, mini focaccias and rustic miniature pizzas.
THE WINERY
William Pregentelli contributed
CONTESA The Beautiful Dispute
â&#x20AC;&#x153;T
he story is one of the many tales about a NIUQTa Ă&#x2026;ZU \PI\ KWUM[ to a halt when those who are managing it LWVÂź\ IOZMM IVaUWZM _Q\P \PM LQZMK\QWV[ JMQVO OQ^MV Âş :WKKW 8I[M\\Q JMgins his story like this when we ask him the reasons behind the name of PQ[ _QVMZa š1V I ÂťKWV\M[IÂź I LQ[X]\M _Q\PQV \PM _QVMZa KZMI\ML Ja my father in the 1970s led me to go WNN WV Ua W_V 1 KZMI\ML I VM_ J][QVM[[ \PI\ Ă&#x2026;\ JM\\MZ _Q\P _PW 1 _I[ JIKSML Ja Ua _QNM IVL Ua KPQTLZMV 1 KPW[M \W XZW\MK\ aMIZ[ WN _WZS and the quality of my grapes, harvested already for many years from \PM +WTTMKWZ^QVW M[\I\M _PQKP \WLIa is the home of the Contesa winery. 1 KPW[M \PM VIUM \W ZMUQVL ][ PW_ important it is to defend oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own _WZS W_V KPWQKM[ IVL QV W]Z KI[M our own land.â&#x20AC;? ?MÂźZM QV )JZ]bbW JM\_MMV +WTTMKWZ^QVW _PMZM I\ UM\MZ[ WN IT\Q\]LM \PM PMK\IZM[ WN ^QVMaIZL []ZZW]VL
the winery headquarters, and Catignano, further up towards the Maiella mountains, where there are seven W\PMZ PMK\IZM[ WN ^QVMaIZL <PM KTIaMa KITKIZMW][ [WQT PI[ JMMV XTIV\ML with white varieties (trebbiano and XMKWZQVW IVL \PM [WQT KWV\ZQJ]\M[ mineral notes and exuberant aroUI\QK [MV[I\QWV[ \W \PM OZIXM[ <PM IZMI[ _Q\P UWZM KWV[Q[\MV\ [\Z]K\]ZM and easily drained sub-soil have been LM^W\ML \W UWV\MX]TKQIVW \W NW[\MZ \PM TWVO ^MOM\I\Q^M KaKTM \PI\ Q[ IJ[WT]\MTa VMKM[[IZa \W \PM XWTaXPMVWTQK maturation of the variety that is the ZMOQWVŸ[ [aUJWT š?M XZWL]KM IJW]\ 300,000 bottles per year, divided IUWVO 5WV\MX]TKQIVW LŸ)JZ]bbW IJW]\ <ZMJJQIVW LŸ)JZ]bbW 8MKWZQVW IVL 8I[[MZQVI ]VLMZ \PM regional denomination Abruzzo. <PM )JZ]bbM[M UIZSM\ Q[ KWV[WTQdated now and we are expanding on the Italian market, but more than PITN W]Z XZWL]K\QWV OWM[ IJZWIL QV XIZ\QK]TIZ \W \PM =3 \PM =VQ\ML States, Northern Europe and, for the
56 NOVEMBER 2016
last few years, to Japan, China and Australia.â&#x20AC;? .WZ I [UITT Ă&#x2026;ZU _PI\ IZM \PM LQNĂ&#x2026;K]T\QM[ QV LMITQVO _Q\P QV\MZVI\QWVIT UIZSM\[' š-`XWZ\QVO _QVM PI[ JMKWUM M`KM[[Q^MTa LQNĂ&#x2026;K]T\ .WZ I UMLQ]U [UITT KWUXIVa TQSM W]Z[ \PM SMa NIK\WZ is still the relationship of trust that we build with our importer. In our M`XMZQMVKM _M PI^M VW\ML \PI\ \PM P]UIV NIK\WZ KW]V\[ UWZM \PIV \PM denomination of the wine, or the \MKPVQY]M[ WN ^QVQĂ&#x2026;KI\QWV +TMIZTa over the years, the quality of Abruzzese wines has been improving no\IJTa IVL ITT XZWL]KMZ[ IZM _WZSQVO to improve the image of the Abruzzo winemaking team overall. Among the priorities of the winery is the en^QZWVUMV\ ;QVKM !! \PM aMIZ _M XTIV\ML \PM Ă&#x2026;Z[\ ^QVMaIZL[Âş :WKKW goes on, â&#x20AC;&#x153;we have been able to organize treatment of the vineyards JI[ML WV ZM[MIZKP IJW]\ \PM ^MOM\Itive equilibrium of the vines, aimed I\ MTQUQVI\QVO QUJITIVKM[ QV Q\[ KWUposition and guaranteeing it good ZM[Q[\IVKM \W LQ[MI[M <WLIa _M KW^MZ UWZM \PIV WN W]Z []ZNIKM _Q\P \PM \MKPVQY]M WN _MML OZW_\P ?M eliminated the use of weed killers,
KPIVOML \PM XPa\W PMIT\P XZWOZIU of the vineyards, and rationalized the ][M WN XM[\QKQLM[ QV NI^WZ WN \PM ¹[M`]IT KWVN][QWVº UM\PWL <PM UI[[Q^M ZML]K\QWV QV \PM ][M WN XM[\QKQLM[ to defend the vines brought about evident improvement in the natural JITIVKM WN \PM \MZZQ\WZa _Q\P \PM ZM\]ZV WN UIVa [XMKQM[ WN IVQUIT[ IVL QV[MK\[ \PI\ PIL LQ[IXXMIZML QV \PM XI[\ <PM UW[\ WJ^QW][ IL^IV\IOM Q[ with the winery in the middle of our vineyards, we breathe healthy air, in a LMKQLMLTa XTMI[IV\ MV^QZWVUMV\ º ?PQKP IUWVO aW]Z _QVM[ Q[ \PM WVM aW]¼ZM NWVLM[\ WN ' ¹)JZ]bbW 8MKWZQVW +WV\M[I Q[ Ua NI^WZQ\M 1 LMLQKI\ML UWZM \PIV aMIZ[ WN Ua _QVMOZW_QVO M`XMZQMVKM to that bottle, and it is the one that has given and still today gives me the UW[\ [I\Q[NIK\QWV 1\ Q[ I ^IZQM\a \PI\ I bet on when very few in Abruzzo were paying attention to it, and I still QV^M[\ I OZMI\ LMIT QV Q\ JMKI][M M^MZa year it stimulates my ambition. I am a food fan, I like to eat well and experiMVKM VM_ ÆI^WZ[ J]\ OQ^M UM I OWWL [TQKM WN WTL NI[PQWVML JZMIL IVL I drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, and I I[[]ZM aW] \PI\ WVM OTI[[ WN 8MKWZQVW Contesa will not be enough.”
57 NOVEMBER 2016
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