Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food - January 2017 by Gambero Rosso

www.gamberorosso.it YEAR 21 n. 103 - JANUARY 2017

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

BEST WINE BUY • GUANCIALE • TRAVEL PIEDMONT • Recipes from Great Chefs

SILVAN PRIMOSIC

a tavola

WINE 14 | Wine stories: Rivetti and Gravner 35 | Berebene 2017: The best wines at intelligent prices Besides the prestigious Vini d’Italia guide, which celebrated its first thirty years last November, Gambero Rosso also publishes an intelligent almanac that reviews wines with the best price/quality relationship. Called Berebene, this volume has been offering an essential snapshot of the dense forest of Italian winemaking since 1991.

TRAVEL 54 | Roero: great wines and splendid salumi Along the ochre ridges of the Rocche, that stretch of marl north of the Tanaro, lies a strip of Piedmont – the hills of Roero – where a sense of what’s good and beautiful in life is renewed at every turn. The body recharges. The spirit is refreshed by a magical alchemy of well-being that permeates the zone’s woods, Savoy castles, orchards and lush vineyards

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JANUARY 2017

«To know the vintage and quality of a wine one need not drink the whole cask.» Oscar Wilde (witer 1854 – 1900) 14

FOOD

NEWS & MORE

20 | Guanciale: Amatriciana and more Made from pork cheek (and throat), it is an indispensable ingredient in pasta all’amatriciana, gricia or carbonara, but also delicious when sliced paper-thin and served on warm toast, flat or fried breads, focaccia…

65 | Recipes from Great Chefs: Davide Palluda, the Roero according to me He has brought his own home territory out of the shadow of the nearby Langhe, given depth to the Enoteca Regionale and presents his Roero zone in each of his dishes, recounting the land and its history. Davide Palluda offers a model of cucina that is creative and territorial, intelligent and knowledgeable.

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EDITORIAL

OUT OF TIME seem anachronistic, museum-ready. Some wines seem illegible, unbridled, stalled in the glass like a biker on the fearful climb of Mortirolo, dull, like a song that you have had enough of after 20 seconds. Change the glass, and you change style. And that is what is happening everywhere between operators and a range of consumers who are increasingly more knowledgeable. Even in China, wine clubs are beginning to taste vibrant and vertical Verdicchio labels that only a few years ago, they would have wrinkled their noses at. Wine bars are springing up that offer wines by the glass, all in a register diametrically opposed to what even we at the Gambero once enthusiastically called modern. In the pages that follow, we’ll share our experiences on the Scandinavian tour – wine lists worthy of a thousand and one nights and inspired cooking. And we look deeper into one of Italy’s best loved products, guanciale, appreciated abroad as well as at home, even if hard to find. We’ll tell you about the best brands available on the international markets, to the delight of restaurateurs and food-lovers.

“We produce this for Northern Europe. That one is popular in the United States.” I hear these two phrases repeated often as I take notes, talking to producers about a wine I’ve tasted. It’s their way of saying “Look, I don’t like it either, but the market demands it.” Underneath is another message: I have to make a profit. Until a few years ago, the conversation could end there. National preferences were fairly clear. But things are changing, and they are doing so quickly and dramatically. True, there are still reference points of taste anchored in different cultures. Eating in the United States for forty years, and doing so in a Tuscan village to the beat of peppery olive oil and old-style Sangiovese means educating the palate in two different universes. But producers are underestimating one aspect: the evolution of the consumer. There’s a definite shift towards more elegant, subtle, drinkable wines. For the third consecutive year I found myself in Scandinavia. Here too, compared to ten years ago, it’s a different world. Palates are more sensitive and better trained. Faced with wines that are woody or sugary, tasters make the same face that I made in front of the producers. A style that only a few years ago we called modern, now

Lorenzo Ruggeri

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NEWS FROM AROUND WINE AND THE ECONOMY WORLD

FRANCE. Champagne closes 2016 with a minus sign

2016-17: Wine consumption trends in the USA What’s the latest news from the American market? What wine consumption trends are predicted for 2017? The year 2016 showed yet another change of direction in taste. The crucial millennials contribute to making the market even more competitive, and all sectors are still weighing the unknown Trump effect. The world’s winemaking industry is holding its collective breath. According to the report from Impact Databank “New Product Reports for Wine and Spirits”, in 2016 a new record for consumption was accompanied by a preference for more com-

petitive pricing, for blends of reds, and above all, by a growing interest in new packaging formats. Among these are even high quality wines in single-serve bottles. In particular, says the study, over 100 new, nonvarietal red wines were released between 2015 and 2016, including luxury brand versions such as those from Treasury Wine Estates or the Stags’ Leap blend, The Investor (price $53 for the 750 ml bottle). The new formats range from single-serve versions (250 ml) to the opposite, three-liter boxes. For example, E.&J. Gallo Winery in 2015 launched “Vin Vault”, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero, Chardonnay and Malbec. In two years, sales of this maxiformat at large-distribution chains easily exceeded sales of classic-size bottles. Aiming at a larger range of consumption occasions might be a winning strategy. 6 JANUARY 2017

For Champagne, 2016 was a bitter year, according to the estimates of the Comité Champagne, with 2% decrease in the sales of the premium French bubbly. In fact, 306.6 million bottles of Champagne were sold in the world (including France) in 2016. In 2015, the number was 312 million. However, in 2014, 307 million bottles were sold. This fluctuation depends largely on the British market and on France’s own domestic demand. The home market lost 4 million bottles compared to the year before, dropping from 162 million to 158 million. The European markets of Spain and Italy were slightly up, with the total in Europe (France excluded) of 77.5 million bottles. In 2015, however, the number was 80.2 million. Outside the European Union, numbers saw a modest growth of .5%, from 70.3 million bottles in 2015 to 70.9 million in 2016. The predictions at the start of the year may have been too rosy. “We were a little optimistic,” the producers admit. Production was fixed at 315 million bottles – 283 million basic labels plus 32 million from the top range – not interpreting correctly the signs coming from the United States (an essentially stable market) and from internal consumption.

In Spain, rules tighten to fight alcohol abuse among youths

FAIRS. Vinexpo expands. After the Salon de Bordeaux, here comes the Explorer format. First stop, Austria. Vinexpo is exploring. This is the idea behind the recent project announced by the Salon de Bordeaux. The new format is called Vinexpo Explorer and has the objective of crossing borders and shining the spotlight on other producing countries. The traveling event begins in Austria on September 11 and 12. The idea is not to replicate the Salon but to experiment with another format aimed at only 100 top international buyers who will have the opportunity to visit wineries and vineyards in the territory. “With our great Salons of Bordeaux, Hong Kong, Tokyo and now Vinexpo Explorer, we offer a complete range of experiences to satisfy the requirements of buyers, producers, and distributors of wines and spirits around the world,” said CEO William Déglise. “We are enthusiastic about hosting the first edition of Vinexpo Explorer in Austria,” commented Willi Klinger, managing director of the Austria Wine Marketing Board. “Participating will improve our visibility among top international buyers. It will sustain our efforts to become players on the global wine map.” For successive stops, other sites such as Valle del Douro, Sonoma, Australia, Greece and Languedoc have already been mentioned. Meanwhile, the next event to look for is the traditional biennial Salon de Bordeaux, from June 18 to 21.

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They call it the “anti-botellón” law. It will regulate in a single piece of legislation the use and abuse of alcohol among under-age Spanish youth. The government of Spain plans to tighten the web of tolerance, partly in the light of recent events. For example, in San Martin de la Vega, a twelve-year-old died in an alcohol coma during a street-gathering focused on drinking. The Minister of Health, Dolors Montserrat, aims to speed the passage of a law soon to be discussed in the Spanish parliament. The law would give local police the ability to stop on the street a young person suspected of being drunk and require a breathalyzer test. In case he or she tests positive, the youth and his or her parents will be obliged to take a course in the effects of alcohol abuse, similar to those required of drivers who have been fined for driving under the influence of alcohol. For the first time in Spain, the “antibotellón” law will prohibit those under 18 to drink on the street, unifying various regional laws that local governments have passed autonomously. The phenomenon of drinking on the street is very common in Spain. About 40% of minors participate in these gatherings every month, 37,000 students between 14 and 18 have consumed alcohol every day in the last month, 285,000 began to drink within the last year, and in the last 30 days, over 489,000 young people have gotten drunk, 22% of the age group.

NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

FOOD TREND 2017. From America, foods and trending restaurants for the new year What will we be eating over the next 12 months? Who will best predict the public’s taste? Which foods and eating-out formats will ride the wave? At the start of each year, we have fun looking at the ideas coming from the United States, thanks to the analysis done by the National Restaurant Association. For over 10 years, they have asked more than a thousand chefs for predictions for the incoming 12 months. We begin with a look at the products with the greatest appeal. In the top 20 trending foods, we find a confirmation of some movements that have already been growing. A deepening interest in authentic ethnic cooking, especially ramen and poke (raw fish salad), is clear. Street food is going strong and its spread doesn’t seem to be slowing down. But it’s worth noting that the consumer is also asking for different cuts of meat than before: tongue, tail, chicken feet and pig’s ears, for example. Home-made products, including cured meats and preserves, are gaining ground. Seeds and alternative cereals are abundantly present on many menus, from chia to quinoa, from kamut to farro and amaranth grain. Rare and forgotten fruits and vegetables, wild fish and fish from sustainable farms, cured fish, smoked and grilled foods, non-sweet desserts that depend on salt, cold brew cof-

fee: these all will continue to be in demand. Among the exotic flavors of 2017, products and traditions coming from Africa will make a good showing, as will the culinary influence of the Philippines. Primary concerns are sustainability, territoriality, a return to simplicity and the reduction of waste, but these are themes that have been on the stage for years now.

It’s also interesting to consider the diffusion of gourmet menus dedicated to children. Many restaurateurs seek to develop dishes that appeal to their youngest customers while balancing nutritional values and healthy eating. The hope is to transform the ordinary into the extraordinary so as to inspire the dining-out market. But this is a constant goal.

FOOD TECH: the most promising innovations for 2017 The universe of food and wine has seen an astonishing growth of services for consumers, entrepreneurs, retailers and restaurateurs, exploiting the latest technological advances. For 2017, experts in the sector have focused on some of the most promising food tech innovations, those with the greatest chance of success. The on-line American magazine, FoodDive, specialized in analysis of the food industry, selected the ten most appealing ideas. The list confirms the unchallenged domination of Amazon, an international leader of electronic commerce. One of its most attractive innovations is the supermarket without checkout counters. The new store fully focuses on the “grab and go” formula, letting shoppers purchase what they like and pay later with on-line debit to their own accounts. Seattle greeted the revolutionary shopping concept with enthusiasm, and the actual store should be opening early this year. Another innovation, Amazon Dash Button, through a wi-fi connection, allows consumers to purchase products with a simple click. Jeff Bezos, founder and CEO of Amazon, seems bent on accelerating the diffusion of this gadget and, above all, to convince more and more companies to adopt the but8 JANUARY 2017

ton. Although Amazon is the name that appears the most frequently on the list, in the analysis of food tech services of the year, other companies also appear. Walmart, for example, the American retail chain, has recently introduced The Last Mile, a click & collect service, shopping online that eliminates shipping costs and permits the client to personally pick up the product. Samsung introduced The Family Hub, the latest model of refrigerator launched by the South Korean firm that is noteworthy for its touch screen display. It permits consumers to shop for food on-line from their own kitchen’s computer and to communicate with one another. The refrigerator is now the digital family bulletin board.

PASTA FLYER: Fast food pasta launched in New York by Mark Ladner, ex-chef at Del Posto

The fame of Del Posto is primarily linked to that of its founder and owner, Mario Batali, who is one of the best-known ambassadors of Italo-American cucina in the USA. But the celebrated Manhattan restaurant is also tied closely to Mark Ladner. The chef headed the brigade from 2005, when, more than ten years ago, Batali and the Bastianich family (Lidia and her son Joe) decided to undertake the plunge into Madein-Italy fine dining. They earned the unanimous admiration of critics and public. The recent an-

nouncement, confirmed by Batali, attracted the attention of the American food-journalism sector. Mark Ladner has left Del Posto, passing the baton to his sous chef, Melissa Rodriguez, the first woman in New York to head a restaurant that has been awarded four stars by the New York Times. And Mark? What will he be doing? His project for the future sounds intriguing. After years among superlatives, stars and exclusive menus, the chef will soon open his own fast food place dedicated to pasta, with the hope that the format will prove to be a winner, and easy to replicate. Fast, informal eating, an ambitious but not impossible challenge, will be clearly focused on the heart of cucina italiana.

The name is already chosen: Pasta Flyer, “old world cuisine at light speed”, it promises. In Greenwich Village, the work on the new site, scheduled to open this spring, is underway, Ladner’s fans are waiting to see if he can bring top quality pasta, served al dente and topped with superior ingredients, to the fast food format. For now, the most interesting news leaked is that Ladner’s pasta will come from the Felicetti firm in Trentino-Alto Adige. A special pre-cooking system will allow the pasta to be ready to serve in 15 seconds. If this is science-fiction, it still has the blessing of Mario Batali. We’ll know soon enough if Mark Ladner’s pasta bar will be a hit.

2016, record year for Italian food exports Food production has always been one of Italy’s most exciting sectors, with export constantly growing. In 2016, agricultural products hit an historical high, with exports reaching 38 billion euros, an increase of 3%. The countries of the European Union are the principal cause of this achievement, but Made in Italy continues to be popular on all the other principal markets, from North America to Asia and even Oceania. The only country that is still suffering the effects of the embargo is Russia, where Italian exports do not seem destined to grow. “Among the principal sectors of Italian export, the most-purchased product is wine, for a value of 5.6 billion euros, and growth of 3%,” estimates Coldiretti, the Italian agricultural entrepreneurs’ association. Then come fruit and vegetables, cheese, olive oil and cured meats – salumi. “Analyzing the performance of products in

individual countries,” continues the report, “we see surprising aspects, such as the success of wine even in other important producing nations. Purchases are growing in France (+5%), the United States (+3%), Australia (+14%), and Spain (+1%). Pasta, symbol of cucina italiana, is triumphant: in China alone imports have grown by 16%. On the other side of the world, the New York Times featured an article about representative companies of wheat pasta Made in Italy. Coldiretti president, Roberto Moncalvo, affirmed that the data are positive and significant, demonstrating “the great potential of the Italian agricultural industry, which leads the uptick of the entire Made in Italy sector.” He added, “The movement of the international markets could further improve with more efficacious protection against international agropiracy,” that is the counterfeiting 9 JANUARY 2017

of products that today “bill over 60 billion euros annually, improperly using words, colors, names, images, denominations and recipes that refer to Italy for fraudulent products that have nothing to do with the country of Italy itself.” This plague of ‘Italian-sounding’ must be resolved or at least limited as soon as possible. At the present time, two food products out of three that claim to be Italian are imitations. That number should give officials pause, and stimulate them to take stronger measures against counterfeit products.

EVENTS

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TRE BICCHIERI WEEK 2

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he wait for Tre Bicchieri Week is almost over. The YEARS i d’Italia Vin Tre Bicchieri World Tour will move to North America for four events that have become auYEARS thentic celebrations 3 of Italian quality. In February the classic North American Tre Bicchieri week takes off: this year there will be a new stop in Los Angeles. Chicago will be on the 7th, New York the 9th, L.A the 13th and San Francisco the 15th. Each event will embrace a seminar that will focus on the 9 Special Awarded Wines: the top labels tasted this year. Moreover, in Chicago and New York a masterclass will feature a fine selection of Custoza wines from the morainic soils of Garda lake produced by garganega, trebbianello, bianca fernanda, incrocio Manzoni and riesling grapes. A special corner of Falanghina del Sannio wines will be showcased in San Francisco and Los Angeles, paired with some special doughs prepared by Tony Gemignani, a 12 time World Pizza Champion. In Los Angeles event is also scheduled an Olive Oil Bar and masterclass, thanks to the cooperation with CIA (Italian Farmers Confederation), which is one of the lartest European agricultural organization that brings toghether more than 950,000 members, and CNO (National Olive Farmers Consortium).

Top Italian Restaurants

2017

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And here we come to another news: during each event

the best Italian restaurants in town according to the digital guide Top Italian Restaurants in the World will be honored. The guide has taken account of restaurants, pizzerias and wine bar dedicated to Italian food and wine culture. It will be available in March and will cover about 30 nations. It was 1986 when Gambero Rosso took its first steps as a weekly supplement in the daily newspaper Il Manifesto. The year after, the first Gambero Rosso guide was printed These have been thirty years of experience, of great wines, of changes. In the 1986 edition, 32 Tre Bicchieri were selected from 1,500 wines tasted. This year, 429 Tre Bicchieri have emerged from over 40,000 labels sampled. The Guide has accompanied the Renaissance of Italian wine step by step, in an era extraordinarily rich in transformational new approaches. During these years, the foundations for the international affirmation of 10 JANUARY 2017

the Italian wine sector were laid. To celebrate this anniversary, the Gambero Rosso World Tour has scheduled a rich itinerary with many new stops and a dense program, touching down on the principal international markets as well as more complex ones that offer new opportunities.

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EVENTS ABROAD

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

Copenhagen. The Tasting

GAMBERO ROSSO’S SCANDINAVIAN EVENTS The Scandinavians have a special feeling about Italian wine. More and more Italian labels are appearing on the wine lists of restaurants, pizzerias and wine bars. The regions represented are changing, the offerings are expanding, and vino is at the heart of the Scandinavian experience of eating out, thanks also to the opening of many new high-quality places STOCKHOLM, THE FIRST STOP

Stockholm. The Tasting

The new year of Gambero Rosso’s world tour opened in Stockholm. It was the sixth event in the city, but only the first dedicated to Tre Bicchieri. Five hundred visitors tasted the wines from 50 Italian wineries in the picturesque Vinterträdgården of the Grand Hotel Stockholm. During the seminar on the guides’ Special Awards, journalists showed great interest in the white wines presented, with a focus on verdicchio, grechetto, pecorino and pigato. Systembolaget, the State alcohol monopoly, makes access to the market quite complex, with regulations and tenders (public auctions) part of the process. On wine shelves, we noted many dried grape wines with a series 12

JANUARY 2017

of labels that were borderline, from a legal point of view. “Taxation is at 25% but the mark-ups are relatively much heavier on middle and low-priced wines. Among the more expensive labels, we find wines at competitive prices, similar to those in Italy,” commented sommelier Giancarlo Clark. We introduced the upcoming guide, Top Italian Restaurants. During the event, awards were given to three authentic places that guarantee the traceability of their products, respect for their ingredients, proper communication and correct food and wine pairing. The best Italian restaurant in the city is Mancini. “When I first came, olive oil was sold in pharmacies. There were no tomatoes, and only a couple of Italian wines, generally in straw-covered bottles. Today the competition among Italian restaurants is fierce and it’s good for the entire sector,” said owner Claudio Mancini, who opened in 1980 in the Norrmalm neighborhood. The award for the best pizza goes to Giro Pizzeria Napoletana. The best wine bar is Adria, one of the recent additions to the roster and opened by a second generation of Italians, the Montanari family, who have been active in Stockholm since the 1970s.

Stockholm. The Awards to Ciro, Adria and Mancini

Oslo. The Awards to Villa Paradiso Frogner and Trattoria Popolare

OSLO, PIZZA AND VINO

After fifty minutes of flight over an entirely white landscape, the tour landed in Oslo. Thirty Italian wineries explored a market that is witnessing a constantly broader and better articulated offering of wines. Two hundred restaurateurs and operators, including the agents of the state monopoly Vinmonopolet, participated in the event in the elegant Gamle Logen. During the seminar, we saw a growing familiarity with Italian territories, with many professionals constantly traveling around Italy. As a result, wine offerings are no longer limited to Tuscany and Piedmont. One representative example is the wine list of the Trattoria Popolare of Oslo, curated by Jessica Senning, which was named the Best Wine List in the city in the Top Italian Restaurants guide. The trattoria serves only Italian wines, from every region, and with friendly mark-ups, at least considering the Norwegian average. There is a wide selection of wines by the glass. “The Norwegians are opening up to wine. They want to try new styles and varieties. Their taste is moving towards

EVENTS ABROAD

Oslo. The Tasting

less sweet and concentrated registers,” commented Jessica. Her wine list offers more than 30 Etna labels and a series of very prestigious vertical options, even of lesser-known selections. The award for the best pizza in the city went to a Roman, Fabio Pezzoli, who has been in Norway since 1994. His Villa Paradiso Frogner, two years old, serves a low, fragrant pizza made with good ingredients. During our visit, every seat was taken, with 300 places and no one drinking beer. “Nine out of ten clients order wine. They enjoy tasting different ones. We serve 100 wines by the glass and have a cellar with 22,000 bottles. Soon we’re opening a wine bar in the back, with a selection of Italian cheeses.” Pizza and vino – many new places around Europe are betting on this winning pair. More wine is consumed in the pizzerias of Oslo than in those in Rome.

COPENHAGEN, AVANT-GARDE IN CUCINA AND WINE

Copenhagen. CNO Copenhagen. The Best Restaurant Award to Era Ora

Research and experimentation are behind the wine and food menus of Copenhagen. Places to eat are among the best in Europe, and the number of top level restaurants and wine bars is amazing for a city of half a million inhabitants. The competition in the wine sector is striking, with a surprisingly large number of small importers, carefully curated wine lists, and a clear interest in finding wines from small producers who work in the most natural ways. The Gambero event, in the centrally-located Moltkes Palæ, attracted a massive participation of well-informed operators, as clearly seen during the seminar. Questions and comments showed sensitive, well-educated palates. The Danes are great tasters, and in some ways they resemble Japanese wine aficionados. In Copenhagen, during the tastings, we also presented some early information about the new guide, Top Italian Restaurants. La Vecchia Signora, belonging to Achille Melis and Olimpia Grussu was named the best pizzeria in the city. The Best Restaurant award went to Elvio Morelli and his Era Ora, opened in 1983. In the kitchen, his all-Italian team, average

Riserva. “Between the two cities, in Copenhagen I noted more awareness. Many operators had visited our wineries and know our zone.”

Morellino Vertical Tasting in Copenhagen

CIA AND CNO

Not just wine. The Copenhagen event saw the first partnership between Gambero Rosso and the CIA (Confederazione Italiana Agricoltori), with many artisans on the scene, bringing their quality products. Bread from Altamura (Puglia), cheeses, aromatic herbs, tomato sauces and many other typical specialties were on hand to accompany the wine tasting. Thanks to the agreement with the CNO (Consorzio Nazionale Olivicoltori), there was also an Olive Oil Bar created, along with a very popular seminar on appreciating the quality and recognizing the defects of extra-virgin olive oil. The comparative tasting of a few commercial oils aroused interest and surprise.The next stop for the partnership will be in Los Angeles, February 13, and in Toronto, on June 8 and 9, alongside the Tre Bicchieri events.

age about 27, turns out a menu based on top quality Italian products, good combinations, and careful wine-food pairings chosen from a cellar that includes 70,000 bottles, only Italian. Half of them are magnums. The food gave us one of the best experiences of cucina italiana in the world, and the team is only beginning. Besides its recognition as Best Restaurant, Era Ora won Tre Forchette Tricolore, the top score in the up-coming guide.

MORELLINO SHOWS OFF

Morellino di Scansano is making a splash on the Scandinavian markets. The new director of the Consorzio, Alessio Durazzo, brought a selection of events to Stockholm and Copenhagen, offering examples of the typical differences in his zone. “I’m enthusiastic about this trip. Managing to have professionals taste over ten labels together, at one time, showcases our story. It illuminates such words as exposure, soil and altitudes, differences that the tasters were able to note in the glass,” commented Alessio. “Everyone wanted to taste the riserva, but they were all struck by the basic versions, Morellino labels that were fresh and pleasant, with no exaggerated use of wood.” This approach was strengthened during the seminars, which also included a vertical tasting of Morellino di Scansano

Copenhagen. CIA

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NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

THE LAST PINOT AND THE WINE’S CYCLES Consumers ask for Pinot Grigio. He pulls up the vines. The markets demand speed. He always waits seven years before releasing his wines. Cellars become more and more sophisticated, his is reduced to the indispensable minimum. You can’t say that Joško Gravner is one of those producers (he’d rather be called a farmer) who follows fashion. He is the man who subtracts: in order, he eliminated stainless steel (to move on to amphorae), vineyard treatments (to move on to biodynamic methods), additives (none except sulfur), the automatic press, the refrigerator for refining musts and finally, the de-stemmer (“because even the stems should end up in the wine”). In all, he omits everything he calls “special effects”. Lastly, he eliminated all the vineyards that are not Pignoletto and Ribolla. The second of these is by far his favorite. “Since forever,” he told us, “my dream has been to produce only this indigenous Friulano variety. But there’s no hurry about putting in new plants. The soil has to rest at least seven years.” The number sev-

en is a constant in his speech and his philosophy. Now with the last vines removed, a limited edition of 1,500 bottles is about to come onto the market, one of the last years of Pinot Grigio, Riserva 2006. (After this, there will only be 2007, 2009 and 2011.) “The history of our winery,” Gravner explained, “is told in a series of events that are like the cycles in our life as grapegrowers. First was the discovery of the great international varieties. Then the hail of 1996 that forced us to rethink our way of making wine and led us to other pathways. Then came the introduction of the Caucasian amphorae and a return to nature. Now is the moment for a new beginning. The last Pinot Grigio will write the next cycle for us.”

Pinot Grigio Riserva 2006 Gravner | Gorizia (GO) | www.gravner.it A selection of Pinot Grigio grapes from the Njiva vineyard, fermented as a monovarietal with long maceration in Georgian amphorae buried in the soil, followed by six years more aging in large oak casks and concluding with bottling during the waning of the moon (an important detail). After three years of further aging in the bottle, today it is ready for release. The result is an iridescent wine that finds its balance in the mouth thanks to interesting spiciness and complex minerality. Its long finish is difficult to find in a Pinot Grigio. If the vineyards were not already all pulled out, we would petition to have him continue production.

photo © Studio Cru

photo by M. Molcinik

Loredana Sottile collaborated

16 NOVEMBER 2016

DANTE RIVETTI – MOSCATO D'AUTORE A winning pair: Moscato and Neive. On one hand, the medieval village, the square tower, the winding, narrow, cobblestone street – on the other, the hills that face from the Bricco towards Neive, the home of those fortunate vineyards where the Rivetti family has made wine for four generations. In 1973, Dante and Luciano began to bottle their product. The winery grew to today’s 45 hectares, and their three children are a promising new generation. The wines are a favorite even with the most exigent consumers. Most of the grapes are nebbiolo, eighteen hectares, from which their Barbaresco DOCG is made. Next is Moscato (on ten hectares) and the remaining land is divided among barbera, dolcetto and arneis. The two flagship wines, Barbaresco and Moscato, are the pride of the

family. I spoke with Katia, Dante’s daughter, who handles foreign markets. The domestic market is the responsibility of her sister, Mara. The winery and vinification processes are the domain of Ivan, the eldest. “Our Barbaresco DOCG is a monovarietal nebbiolo. We offer it in two labels. Bricco Neive is aged for three years in large barrels and one year in the bottle. It comes from vines that are at least forty years old. Micca, instead, comes from younger vineyards.” Pruning is short, and thinning carried out in the vineyard is severe. But the most renowned Rivetti wine, in terms of production as well, is Moscato d’Asti DOCG:

by Nino d’Antonio

70,000 bottles, compared to Barbaresco’s 15,000. Let’s look at the process that leads to Moscato. After grape pressing, the filtered must is held in silos at -2°C. Fermentation in autoclave for about 15-20 days follows, before bottling. Moscato is a dessert wine, always a presence during joyful get-togethers. Its low degree of alcohol (about 5 degrees) guarantees easy drinkability. But producing it is an act of love. Dante Rivetti | Neive (CN) | via Bricco, 12 | tel. 0173 67125 | www.danterivetti.com

WINE OF THE MONTH

LET DOLCETTO BE YOUR DAILY GLASS

18 JANUARY 2017

Dolcetto d’Alba V. Basarin ’15 Castello di Neive 7,000 bottles ex-cellar price: 16,00 euros The charm of an ancient castle, the harmony of the slopes where the Barbaresco vines grow, the stubborn struggle of the proprietors to restore the area to its antique glories: all this is embodied in the Castello di Neive winery. One of the many hidden jewels of the Langa, in Piedmont, it has belonged to the Stupino family since 1964. Since then, the family has restored the venerable building, reorganized the cellars and winemaking facilities, replanted the vineyards and installed modern systems of wine production. The first years were dedicated to long-term studies carried out with the faculty of the agriculture department at the University of Torino. That work led to the discovery of old Piedmontese varieties, for example, arneis, and to the planting of new clones of the indigenous varieties. After a first running-in period, all the pieces of the mosaic came together in the creation of a spacious, modern winery for the vinification of nebbiolo. The historic castle became the family headquarters and continued to house the ancient barrel cellar. The grapes from the Neive territory are brought here, in particular the grapes from the prestigious plots of Basarin, Cortini, Gallina, Marcorino, and Valtorta, vineyards where barbera, dolcetto, pinot nero, grignolino and riesling grow. The Santo Stefano cru, however, is entirely dedicated to the production of Barbaresco. Basarin has always been dolcetto terroir, reliably giving fresh, fruity, juicy wines. Dolcetto d’Alba Vigna Basarin is a wonderfully drinkable red, with aromas of blackberries and currants along with spicy notes, powerful flavor, and a very long finish. Tannins are soft and resolved. The wine is meant for pairing with the typical products of the zone, but also with aged cured meats and cheeses, with veal and vegetable soup.

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19 JANUARY 2017

DESIGN

by Francesco Seccagno

DESIGN FOOD Technology and design – companions that change our homes and our habits. The household appliances that we have kept hidden until now or revealed shyly are becoming elements of décor.

AIR | Lago s.p.a.| via Artigianato II, 21 | Villa del Conte (PD) | tel. 049 5994 299 | www.lago.it AIR is a new round island kitchen, that, starting from a concept of empathy and lightness, emphasizes exchange and companionship. Designed by Daniele Lago, the Air kitchen is remarkable for its free-standing circular shape. The kitchen island becomes a round table that welcomes both the cook and those sharing a meal. Conversation and participation are easier. Resting on glass legs, with an induction cooking surface (and combinable with the wall model 36e8, in both island and peninsula arrangements), the Air kitchen was the winner of the Good Design Award, Best Product/Kitchen Section – Salone del Mobile.Milano Award 2016. It can be completed by a lamp/ventilation unit from Elica Summilux, made in white glass with edging in shiny copper, designed by Fabrizio Crisà.

20 JANUARY 2017

AMC | Alfa Metalcraft Corporation Italia | via A. Pizzoni, 7 | Milano | tel. 02 57 54 81 | Numero Verde: 800 011046 | www.amcitalia.it | www.amc.info AMC is a world leader in stainless steel cooking systems. Its products (pots and knives above all) can only be purchased by appointment or over the phone, a parallel world to ordinary cooking boutiques. In particular, its vitreous-ceramic oven, Navigenio, along with AMC pots and pans, are versatile kitchen tools of classic design, glamorous and perfectly performing additions to the kitchen and table. Navigenio, which can both bake and cook au gratin, has a lid that shows correct cooking temperatures.

OSA | Unical | caldaie domestiche | Caorso (PC) | via Padana Inferiore, 52/C | tel. 0523 822541 | www.unicalag.it Osa is the first high/tech boiler and thermal unit that can be described as a design object. It is no longer something to hide, but rather to show off. It becomes an element of décor. The boiler is extra flat, a product of Art – U of Unical. Its profile is minimalist and soft, with dimensions reduced in the SLIM version, 18 centimeters deep. It resembles a monolith that can change façade and color. Available in two sizes, 24 and 35 kilowatts. The burner features a total premixing method, by condensation, Low Nox – in a sealed chamber. Instant production of sanitary hot water.

Frigo glitterato Bompani | Fox spa | via Pienza, 100 | Modena | tel. 059 415411 | www.bompani.it The elegance of the retro form of this refrigerator enhances the brilliance of the glittery golden color, producing a true object of decor. Golden glitter is part of a new line of special refrigerators from Bompani. “Colorami” is a series of products studied for those who want to personalize their kitchens. Over 400 shades are available. Customers can also create their own colors starting with a sample from any material, fabric, or even paper already in the kitchen. There is no limit to the possibilities. Besides the glitter options, the opaque soft touch effect resembles the most innovative materials used today in high-design kitchens. Multilevel frost, super-rapid freezing. Anti-bacterial filter.

21 JANUARY 2017

TOP TEN

by Mara Nocilla photos by Francesco Vignali

GUANCIALE

AMATRICIANA, AND MORE

Our choices of one of the best-loved salumi, made from pork cheek (and throat). It is an indispensable ingredient in pasta all’amatriciana, gricia or carbonara, but also delicious when sliced paper-thin and served on warm toast, flat or fried breads, focaccia… Guanciale is a sumptuous companion at aperitif time and for sublime snacks.

matriciana sauce is on everyone’s mind these days. The recent earthquakes have made the town of Amatrice, set on the borders of Lazio, Umbria, Marche and Abruzzo, an internationally known name. It is also the home of the most famous dish of Roman cuisine. For months Amatrice has been at the center of media attention, and the sauce became the symbol of the murderous quake that struck central Italy in 2016. Pasta dressed with the celebrated blend of guanciale (cheek), tomato and pecorino cheese is now served in many restaurants that have joined a movement,

“amatriciana solidale”. The group is flourishing in Italy and abroad to collect funds for those forced out of their homes, the so-called ‘earthquaked’, terremotati. Cia-agricoltori Italiani also created a kit for the preparation of the dish, sold in the chain of shops called “La Spesa in Campagna” (Shopping in the Country). It has been an unexpected success, but it provoked an excessive demand for guanciale compared to what was available. Some salumi-

22 JANUARY 2017

makers released for sale products that were not yet properly aged. Perhaps for this reason, in the tasting of the month dedicated to this flavorful salume made from pork cheek, with its thin line of lean meat in the center of a soft brick of tasty fat, we found products that were still young and fresh in their consistency, and with aromas that were not always evolved and complex. Most of the products we examined come from the LazioMarche-Umbria triangle, almost all enveloped in a veil of pepper. Overall, they presented a classic, unmistakable style with penetrating fragrances of pork, pepper and spices. Guanciale is sometimes a little ‘ignorant’, peasant-style, and for this reason is seen as ideal for the classic trio of traditional Roman pasta dishes: amatriciana, gricia and carbonara. There are

also products that along with typicity offer evolved scents of noble pork, elegant in their own way. We also wanted to draw a map of guanciale that went beyond the Italian midriff. There are smoked Friulano ones, where the notes of smoke melt into hints of meat and fragrances of wine cellars. There’s a princely one made in Colonnata as a lard, aged inside marble tubs along with aromatic herbs and spices. Its aromas resemble melted butter and pastry. There is guanciale for Roman first courses and for porky mixtures intended for larding lean meat or for adding to rolled roasts, stuffings, poultry. But there’s also guanciale for the cold cuts board and a glass of wine, sliced petal-thin and creamily laid on warm bread, inside a pitastyle piadina, on a cracker or focaccia, or wrapped around a skinny bread stick, a grissino.

After the earthquake The guanciale of solidarity

The earthquake drove into the heart of Italy and into the zone of guanciale production. Many of the companies that produce the savory salume are located along the tortuous ridge that, riding the Apennines, goes from Amatrice to Visso, passing by Accumoli and Norcia, They have stubbornly continued their work. We’ll mention those that are the most famous and available on the market, as well as those that already have a review in our ratings list, like Collemaggiore and Re Norcino. Berardi has both feet in the Amatriciana’s home zone: in Amatrice itself is the family restaurant, Lo Scoiattolo. The butcher and cured meat center is in Campotosto, only twenty kilometers away, although technically in another province and another region. (Until 1927, Amatrice was in the Aquila province, before coming under the umbrella of Rieti). The approach is to use no preservatives, dry the meat next to a fireplace, smoke it using oak and beech wood, age it for 5-6 months. The guanciale has the classic triangular shape, and is at its best when taste is intense, textures juicy and soluble. The guanciale from SA.NO in Accumoli is very traditional. They are the market leader for this salume, sold through all distribution channels, a traditional Laziostyle triangular shape, rustic and laden with characteristic animal sensations. Many other salumemakers, large and small, are in the earthquake-stricken zone, not only in Amatrice, Accumoli, Visso and Norcia, but also in Preci, Cascia, Castelsantangelo sul Nera, Muccia, Agriano, San Severino Marche, Castelraimondo, Camerino, Tolentino, Montemonaco, Comunanza, Sarnano, Montefortino. If you want to treat yourself or others to salumi, choose solidarity. The town halls of the places affected can provide you with cell phone contacts for the companies. Berardi | Campotosto (AQ) | loc. Poggio Cancelli | via San Giorgio, 1 | tel. 0862 909260 - 347 9402266 | www.salumiberardi.it Sa.No. | Accumoli (RI) | via Salaria Nuova, km 141.900 | tel. 0746 80565 | www.sano-salumi.it

TOP TEN

EXPORTED ABROAD.... FIORUCCI - GUANCIALE Pomezia (RM) loc. Santa Palomba v.le Cesare Fiorucci, 11 tel. 06 911931 www.fioruccifood.it

Guanciale that is “ideale per l’amatriciana” (on the label) is one of the premium products of this Italian salume company founded in 1850. It may be an openly industrial product, with preservatives (E252 and E250) added to the rub of salt, spices and natural aromas that flavor the cheek of European Union pork, aged for 30 days, but it is very typical of its territory, faithful to the traditional product, rustic but clean and precise in its fatty aromas. Balanced flavor is complex in its own way although it is a little young and not completely evolved. A lovely cloak of pepper completely enfolds the chunk of meat, so when sliced open it reveals fresh and humid texture. On the nose, notes of pork and barnyard but also spices, wine, nuts, citrus fruit, wood, and nuances of mushrooms – domestic and wild. Flavor is balanced, sweet and properly savory on a background of sensations that echo those on the nose, plus a hint of smoke, wine cellar, and light pepperiness. Structure is slightly fibrous, but soluble.

D’OSVALDO PROSCIUTTI GUANCIALE LEGGERMENTE AFFUMICATO Cormòns (GO) via Dante, 40 tel. 0481 61644 dosvaldo.it

An aristocratic guanciale, lightly smoked, like all the salume production of this company in the heart of the Collio Goriziano, the Friuli zone famous for its prosciutto. The cheeks are from Friulano pigs raised on a small, trusted farm and fed a strictly vegetarian diet with no GMO feed. The guanciale is salted, covered with a blend of aromatic plants and spices (as well as E252 and E250) before a sweet, cold hearthside smoking where cherry and laurel wood is burned. Aging is in aired rooms, open to the country breezes. Aromas are complex, evolved and clean, with a measured note of smoke taking pride of place in a princely bouquet of aged meat, mushrooms, nuts, pepper and spices, along with citrus fruit notes. The flavor is full and balanced, rustic and lusty, but also fine and complete. Good return of olfactory sensations. The only shortcoming is its slightly fibrous consistency, but it is pleasantly chewy and soluble. Price per kilo 22 euros

Price per kilo 13 euros

24 JANUARY 2017

G.A.M. - GUANCIALE

Montefiascone (VT) via Verentana, km 3.150 tel. 0761 825471 - 338 4787933 www.socgamsrl.com Another Lazio guanciale – typical, savory, a little rustic, with the classic teardrop form, barely powdered with pepper. Ingredients: Italian pork cheek, salt, pepper, garlic and chili pepper. No preservatives. Aging lasts from 30 days to 4 months. The slice is a little fresh, damp and lean for guanciale. It emanates an intense, porky odor of classic guanciale, salt and pepper, powerful garlic. The notes of pork are slightly fresh, tones of cellar and mushrooms, hints of broth cubes. The garlic sensation returns in the mouth and meets nuttiness and fatty tones. The consistency is juicy and very soluble, with good chewiness, even if the fat stays a little fibrous. Price per kilo 15 euros

. . . h t i w g n i k o o C

recipe by Sara Bonamini photo by Pina Sozio

Cornmeal gnocchi with escarole and guanciale Ingredients for 4 servings 600 g potatoes 160 g finely ground corn flour 150 g 00 flour 250 g curly escarole 80 g guanciale in thin slices 1 small onion Extra-virgin olive oil

Boil the potatoes in their skins. When cold, peel and mash with a potato ricer or a fork. Add salt and work the potatoes with corn flour and 00 flour. Blend ingredients well, roll them into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap and leave to rest in a cool, dry place for at least half an hour. Divide the dough in equal parts (about 8), sprinkle a wooden surface with 00 flour and roll into long cylinders with the hands. Cutting with the smooth part of the knife, form gnocchi from the cylinders. Arrange them on a floured tray, well separated.

25 JANUARY 2017

Bake the guanciale slices in a low oven (110°C) for about 1½ hours, or until crisp. Wash and clean the curly escarole, using only the most tender parts and leaves. Sweat the chopped onion in olive oil. Add sliced escarole and sauté together for a few minutes. Add salt, cover, and cook over low heat for 20 minutes. Cook the gnocchi in boiling water and drain as soon as they rise to the top. Add the gnocchi to the escarole, add the guanciale, crumbled, and serve hot.

PAIRIN GUAN

PAIRING

drawings by Chiara Buosi

SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

frappato

morellino

Shrimp wrapped in guanciale on whipped potatoes

verdicchio

FRANCIACORTA DRY

SCHIAVA

FIANO

Toasted country bread with crisp guanciale, fava beans and fresh pecorino cheese

FSOAVE

frappato

morellino

verdicchio

FRASCATI SUPERIORE

SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

frappato

morellino

verdicchio

Rigatoni alla gricia

26 JANUARY 2017

CORTONA SYRAH

G WITH CIALE

OAVE

SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

Penne alla Carbonara VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI frappato

morellino

verdicchio

Bucatini allâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;amatriciana MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO

SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

frappato

morellino

Roast quail, larded with guanciale, with red onion chutney 27 JANUARY 2017

REFOSCO DAL PEDUNCOLO ROSSO

fra

THE APPELLATION

Stefania Annese collaborated

o n i l o d r a B iaretto h C d n a 30 JANUARY 2017

The salinity and freshness of our soil, together with the aromas of citrus fruit and berries that are typical of our principal grape, corvina veronese, while maintaining a very light pinkcolor â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this is Bardolino Chiaretto

CAMPAGNA FINANAZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/13 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO UE REGULATION NO. 1308/2013

THE APPELLATION

Franco Cristoforetti, president of the Bardolino and Chiaretto Consortium

A red and a rosé from Lake Garda

A Corvina grapes

landscape of vineyards and olive groves, of villages, villas and castles – this is the home territory of Bardolino, the great traditional red wine that comes from the moraine hills around Lake Garda, and of Bardolino Chiaretto, the typical light and crisp rosé that doubled its number of bottled in the last few years.. The zone has specific, unique qualities and enjoys a Mediterranean climate thanks to the nearby lake. Garda confers finesse and typical saline freshness on Bardolino. The blend used is analogous to that in Valpolicella reds, mostly corvine grapes, but also rondinella and in some cases, small amounts of molinara. Protection and promotion of this wine is in the hands of the Consorzio per la tutela del vino Bardolino DOC, a group 32 JANUARY 2017

founded in 1969, a few months after the approval of denominazione di origine controllata or DOC status in May of 1968. “Even before the birth of the DOC, the Bardolino world had set up organizations to curate local wines,” said Franco Cristoforetti, Consorzio president. “In 1926, the first of these, Consorzio di difesa del vino tipico Bardolino, was established, while in 1937, the Consorzio di difesa per la tutela dei vini pregiati Veronesi was founded, including Bardolino among the premium wines it was to defend. Today, our Consorzio includes more than 1,000 grapegrowers and about 100 wineries that bottle under their own label. Altogether, they turn out 28 million bottles, one third Bardolino Chiaretto, a rosé, and two thirds, traditional Bardolino, a ruby red wine.” The consortium, over the last

be bottled with its geographic origin mentioned on its label. “We have some antique Bardolino labels printed for export to America from 1850. At the end of the 19th century, the best Bardolino was exported to Switzerland where it was on the wine lists of the great hotels of the era,” Franco asserted. “In the 1950s and 1960s, exports of Bardolino to the United States were fairly important. Then came the Parkerization of wine, and for wines like Bardolino, the crisis began, because it was not concentrated, muscular, powerful, alcoholic, tannic. Today, finally, it’s being appreciated again. The principal export market for Bardolino and Chiaretto is Germany, which represents almost 40% of our denomination’s total market. However, demand in Scandinavia, the United States and Canada is growing notably. France, for now, is the third market for Chiaretto after Italy and Germany.”

CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO UE REGULATION NO. 1308/2013

CAMPAGNA FINANAZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/13

CONTINUES ON PAGE 29 

photo by Marco Bissoli

eight years, has rescued the identity of local wines that were getting lost in the 1980s, when everyone began following stylistic and productive models that were far from traditional customs. “For Bardolino Chiaretto, the Consorzio chose to spotlight the salinity and freshness of our soil, together with the aromas of citrus fruit and berries that are typical of our principal grape, corvina veronese, while maintaining a very light pink color,” Franco affirmed. “Bardolino returned to its traditional brilliant ruby red hue, focusing on freshness, fruity fragrances and the spiciness of our grapes, and emphasizing its qualities as a red wine suited for an entire meal. To better bring out the characteristics of its origins, the Consorzio carried out a complete zonation study of the area, which is very large and includes 16 municipalities. We now know the composition of the soil and the specific production characteristics of each and every vineyard.” These changes have impacted regulations. In 1987, vino novello was recognized as a type on its own, and in 2001, Bardolino Superiore became a DOCG, separate from Bardolino DOC. “The real transformation towards identity recovery began in 2011, when it became possible to use up to 80% of the indigenous variety corvina veronese in the cuvée. Before, only 65% was allowed,” remembered Franco. “For Bardolino Chiaretto, the transformation date was the 2014 vintage, an extremely difficult harvest in which we decided to produce our rosé wine with a very light color, due to leaving the must on the skins for a very short time. At the end, we decided to spotlight our most important grape, corvina veronese, which has few natural coloring substances but noteworthy freshness.” The new look for Chiaretto led to opening new markets, such as the United States, Canada and Scandinavia, increasing the sales of Bardolino at the same time, one of the first Italian wines to

photo by Francesco Vignali

THE APPELLATION

CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO UE REGULATION NO. 1308/2013

CAMPAGNA FINANAZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/13

Wine and food pairing Bardolino Chiaretto & Pizza Pairing wine and food, it’s said, is a game of balance, a flavor match-up, a chance to bestow persistence and pleasure to the palate. Bardolino, like Chiaretto, is a versatile, joyful, territorial wine. After a decline during the 1990s, today it has once again found its precise identity, tied to the territory of Lake Garda, a zone that favors freshness and delicacy in wines. We asked Consorzio president Franco Cristoforetti how to best create a pairing between these wines and food. “A red wine, but less powerful, less alcoholic, and therefore more oriented towards finesse and drinkability is the historic nature of Bardolino and Chiaretto. Until a few years ago, the public tended to think of rosé wines as beverages to drink exclusively in the summer. Now many have discovered that Chiaretto is for all seasons. The consumption of rosé is no longer firmly tied to the time of year, as long as producers can guarantee the wine’s longevity. That is the direction in which we’re moving with Bardolino Chiaretto. Once, Bardolino Chiaretto was seen mostly as an aperitif wine or for pairing with light summer dishes, but now it’s paired with more consistent flavors, including gourmet pizza. It’s a flexible label, and goes well with cured meats, filled pasta, with black truffles and poultry. Our most representative grape, the one that prevails in the production of Bardolino Chiaretto, corvina veronese, lends it these qualities.” As for deciding what pizza to try it with – we vote for a typical Margherita, made with tomato and mozzarella, a classic with Chiaretto. But a Marinara with anchovies, a vegetable pizza or a Napolitana with salami are also perfect with this wine.

34 JANUARY 2017

The Consorzio also carries out technical activities in the phytosanitary sector, with periodic measuring of climate data since 1982, using official weather sites in various localities, sending out weekly bulletins to its members to guide them to a suitable program of antiparasite defense that respects farm workers, grapes and the environment. But there’s more in the future of these wines. “The idea is to definitely separate the future of Chiaretto from that of Bardolino. Chiaretto will have its own specific denominazione di origine controllata, a DOC exclusively dedicated to rosé wines,” concluded Franco Cristoforetti. “Bardolino will focus more on the individual production zones inside the denomination, with the individuation of specific subzones. These are two ambitious projects in which we strongly believe, aimed at reinforcing the identity of our wines.”

photo by Paola Giagulli

FROM PAGE 27 

Bardolino Vineyards and the hills around Lake Garda

35 JANUARY 2017

More foreign markets to promote the growth of the italian agri-food, potential exports for 70 billion

This is the winning formula of the CIA-Agricoltori (CIA-Italian Farmers) National President Dino Scanavino to promote exports with a plan for the internationalization of enterprises.

he excellence of Italian food products, the niche products of many farmers have all the credentials to be appreciated on foreign markets, just as the best-known productions. Speaking only of ‘zero km’ is restrictive, and we run the risk of limiting the sale of these excellences to local markets only. Take the word of Dino Scanavino for that! The CIA-Agricoltori (CIA-Italian Farmers) National President explained us

why direct sales in local markets are not sufficient to made in Italy products to increase their sales and turnover and that there is still an unexpressed potential of 70 billion Euros. “Figures are clear – said the number one of the Italian farmers. In our country, direct sales in local markets are important, but they generates a total turnover close to 1.5 billion Euros. The turnover of agri-food exports, on the contrary, is almost 37 billion Euros, but with a potential of

at least 70 billion Euros. It means that we are using the wrong strategy. ” Scanavino, in fact, believes that “the real problem today is the lack of a comprehensive long-term strategic plan to attack foreign markets.” A lack that the CIA wants to remedy: “We have devised an ambitious plan for the international promotion of our associated agricultural undertakings –he explained - in partnership with relevant realities such as Ice-International Trade Agency,

CNO in the world market with CIA and Gambero Rosso

T Dino Scanavino, CIA National President

Gambero Rosso International, Anticounterfeiting Study Center, Valdani Vicari & Ass.. Our commitment is to help farmers to promote their products abroad, and we will support them in this by creating alliances, so that they may enhance their productions. ” The idea is that we need to focus more and more on Italian agri-food “reputation”, broadening the basket of exported products. This is because our food and wine products are “a must” to the majority of foreigners, but they only know just 5% of what we produce. With a national production of over 5,847 products, including traditional food and wines, PDO (protected designation of origin) and PGI (protected geographical indication), the world’s consumers can “savour” no more than 200 of them. Why this? Because the others are not readily available in their markets! Odious phenomena such as the Italian sounding arise also from this vacuum, this difficulty to place original Italian products on foreign markets. A vacuum that the CIA now wants to fill.

he mission of the National Consortium of Olive Growers (CNO) is ambitious: to take the best quality extra virgin olive oil, 100% Italian, to the world market. To achieve this goal we conceived and applied in time a strategy that is providing interesting results. First, we have created a large base of members, made of professional olive growers, willing to apply the technical, economic and commercial rules given them by the Consortium and, above all, eager to put their faces to address consumers directly, speaking the language of quality, certification of origin and traceability. Second, a demanding task to set up processing and bottling plants, service and marketing companies, able to face the markets, build a reputation of reliability of their own and govern the entire value chain from farm to fork was carried out. Third, a thorough and patient work was done to provide both business partners and consumers with the guarantee of a safe, authentically Italian product, in terms of raw material, extraction and bottling processes, always keeping an eye on the sustainability of the entire production process. Finally, once all the requirements were met and the ability to successfully deal with the international market was gained, CNO started a new phase that involves the implementation of direct communication, information, promotion and marketing initiatives. Today, CNO is able to offer consumers worldwide a wide range of extra virgin olive oils of different geographical origin, all having in common the essential characteristics of being 100% Made in Italy products that represent the best tradition of olive oil production in our country. The program of promotional events that CIA (Confederazione Italiana Agricoltori) in partnerships with Gambero Rosso has planned and to which CNO is going to participate will begin on January 20th in Copenhagen, to continue in the United States touching Los Angeles and Miami. In the bottles of extra virgin olive oil marketed worldwide by CNO consumers will find all the suggestions, traditions and quality characteristics of the olive cultivation in Italian regions such as Veneto, Tuscany, Lazio, Puglia, Calabria and Sicily and of all the other regions that will participate to this ambitious project.

www.cia.it

We bring to the world the WONDERFUL SECRET CASKET of Italian traditional foods MADE IN ITALY

THE GUIDE LA GUIDA

BEREBENE

2017

THE BEST WINES AT INTELLIGENT PRICES 37 JANUARY 2017

THE GUIDE

Often the indigenous grape varieties used previously had been exclusively dedicated Berebene 2017 to the production del Gambero Rosso | pp. 320 | of still wines. For 11.90 euros | this reason, we www.gamberorosso.it decided to review spumanti as well, a category excluded from previous publications. As we do every year, we gave Oscars for price/quality, Regional Oscars to wines that express the best of production at intelligent prices inside a single geographic area, and National Oscars, those products that embody Italian style, excellent investments for both pocket and palate. For this last type, subdivided into whites and reds of North, Central and South, 2017 saw the creation of a prize for the rosati (rosé) category, a way to make the sister guide of Vini d’Italia even more complete.

esides the prestigious Vini d’Italia guide, which celebrated its first thirty years last November, Gambero Rosso also publishes an intelligent almanac that reviews wines with the best price/quality relationship. Called Berebene, this volume has been offering an essential snapshot of the dense forest of Italian winemaking since 1991. Until last year, the wines had to be priced at 10 euros or less to be included in the almanac. This year we felt the need of increasing the range to 13 euros. Consumers’ inclination to spend extra for good quality wines grew, and so did the prices of wine. Leaving the limit at 10 euros would have excluded many truly special labels, wines that manage to embody their territories and experiences as much as more prestigious labels famous throughout the world. Thus, from 668 Oscars chosen last year (the awards given in this publication have always had this name), this year we increased the number to 718. We added another new factor. In recent years we noticed sparkling wine production had become better and more common around most of the Italian boot.

38 JANUARY 2017

NATIONAL OSCAR

COLLIO SAUVIGNON ’15 Primosic

Gorizia | fraz. Oslavia | loc. Madonnina di Oslavia, 3 | tel. 0481 535153 | www.primosic.com 13.00 euros

The young brothers Marko and Boris Primosic manage the winery founded in 1956 by their father Silvan in the municipality of Oslavia, an area that is home to a considerable number of family-run wineries which have written and are still writing the history of the Collio. In recent years, the Primosic wines have regularly been at the top of the region’s quality ratings, becoming a model for whites that rest on their lees for a long time, above all for Ribolla. But the two show that they also know how to interpret other varieties well, such as this Sauvignon ’15: it is fragrant, fresh and incisive. The finish, on notes of lime and pink grapefruit, is stimulating. Silvan Primosic

ORVIETO CL. VIGN. TORRICELLA ’15 Bigi

Orvieto (TR) | loc. Ponte Giulio | tel. 0763 315888 | www.cantinebigi.it 11.80 euros

The Bigi winery is an historic brand of Orvieto wine. Today it is part of the Gruppo Italiano Vini galaxy. The first headquarters were in the ex-monastery of the Trinità in Orvieto, but since 1972, production moved to the Ponte Giulio site. This is a safe harbor for those who want to taste the zone’s good wines at the right price. Bigi turns out a wide range of labels, both white and red, that derive from about 196 hectares of proprietary vineyard. We focused on one of the most classic labels: Orvieto Classico Torricella ’15. It is a clean white of character, warm and well-made.

The director Massimo Panattoni

39 JANUARY 2017

THE GUIDE

FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO TABURNO ’15 Cantina del Taburno Foglianise (BN) | via Sala, 16 | tel. 0824 871338 | www.cantinadeltaburno.it 8.90 euros

Cantina del Taburno is owned by the Consorzio Agrario Provinciale di Benevento. Since 1902 it has played an important role in the development of the viticulture of its zone. The cooperative brings together 300 members whose vineyards cover 600 hectares located on the slopes of Monte Taburno on mostly clayey, hilly terrain. Production includes all the principal denominations of the Sannio zone of the Campania region: Falanghina, Piedirosso, Aglianico, Sciascinoso, Coda di Volpe, Greco and Fiano. The whites are immediate and pleasant, the reds extracted and fruity. Also in the ranks – dried grape wines and spumanti made with the Martinotti method. Falanghina’15 is immediate and pleasant. It offers fragrant aromas of anise and almond. The palate reveals a measured and savory aromatic profile.

The Director Nicola De Girolamo

In the centre Nicola Dal Maso, on the left Silvia Dal Maso, on the right Anna Dal Maso

COLLI BERICI TAI ROSSO ’15 Dal Maso

Montebello Vicentino (VI) | c.da Selva, 62 | tel. 0444 649104 | www.dalmasovini.com 6.90 euros

The Dal Maso family is one of the reference points in the zone of Gambellara, but for some years now it has widened its interests to also include the nearby Colli Berici. Nicola, with his sisters Anna and Silvia, runs a winery that has 30 hectares of vineyard in two denominations. Overall production is under half a million bottles. The Tai Rosso is truly exquisite. A glass offers aromas of berries refreshed by shadings of fines herbes that enhance each other in a lively, juicy mouthful. Drink it cool. It will win you over with its satisfying immediacy.

41 JANUARY 2017

THE GUIDE

CHIANTI CETAMURA ’15 Badia a Coltibuono

Gaiole in Chianti (SI) | loc. Badia a Coltibuono | tel. 0577 746110 | www.coltibuono.com 7.60 euros

Badia a Coltibuono, an historic brand in the Chianti Classico denomination, is a good example of the most evolved Italian viticulture. It has certification as an organic producer since 2000, but it also demonstrates a sensibility towards the entire production, focusing on stylistically complete wines – elegant, articulate and able to meet the challenges of time passing. Brother and sister team, Roberto and Emanuela Stucchi, who head the winery, have definitively undertaken the path of constant quality and excellence. This year the winery produced a good, wonderfully drinkable Chianti ’15. The wine is intense right from its color. The nose displays clear tones of black cherry that join hints of spices. The palate is fresh, mouth-filling and substantial, with a long, persistent finish.

Roberto, Emanuela and Paolo Stucchi Prinetti

CIRÒ ROSSO CL. ’15 Librandi

Cirò Marina (KR) | loc. San Gennaro | s.da st.le Jonica 106 | tel. 0962 31518 | www.librandi.it 7.20 euros

This historic winery can draw from over 230 hectares of vineyard divided among three large estates: Duca San Felice in Cirò Marina, Critone in Strongoli, and Rosaneti, in Rocca di Neto. Since 1993, the Librandi family, in collaboration with different Italian universities, has undertaken major research into indigenous varieties such as arvino, magliocco, pecorello and mantonico. The study now includes 25 different varieties, selected from over 200 chosen around Calabria. Certainly the entire area of Cirò owes a great deal to Librandi. He has fought stubbornly for years to restore luster to the Cirò denomination in Italy and the world, especially by means of this research. The Cirò Rosso ’15 is exemplary, with aromas of red berries, dried flowers and licorice. The palate is coherent, fresh, tonic and rich in fruit with a satisfying, long-lasting finish.

Nicodemo Librandi

42 JANUARY 2017

BARDOLINO CHIARETTO CL. CA’ VEGAR Cantina di Castelnuovo Castelnuovo del Garda (VR) | s.da st.le 11 | via Palazzina, 2 | tel. 045 7570522 | www.cantinacastelnuovo.com 3.80 euros

Cantina Castelnuovo in Garda is a cooperative company founded in 1958. It takes in over 200 grapegrowers who cultivate the vineyards on a vast hillside area that extends southeast of Lake Garda. Production, articulated in various lines, includes the denominations of Bardolino, Custoza, Lugana, Valpolicella, Soave and Garda. This grand cooperative structure shows off its top quality expression of traditional wines in the Ca’ Vegar line, where this Bardolino Chiaretto stands out. It is a rosato from the classic zone that skirts the eastern edge of Lake Garda. It displays an aromatic range of berries and floral notes that we find again in a juicy, pleasantly drinkable mouthful.

The director Massimo De Rossi

CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO DONNA BOSCO ROSÉ ’15 Nestore Bosco

Nocciano (PE) | c.da Casali, 147 | tel. 085 847345 | www.nestorebosco.com 6.60 euros

Nestore Bosco left a true spiritual testament to his son Giovanni and his grandchildren, Nestore and Stefania, both of whom are deeply involved in the winery. For over a century, this estate has depended on a patrimony of important vineyards, about 75 hectares in the Colli Pescaresi, divided between the Nocciano property that surrounds the splendid underground winery facilities, and the recently acquired vineyards in Valle Subequana, next to the mountains of the Maiella. The wide range of wines offered focuses on the principal Abruzzesi varieties and includes some deliciously drinkable everyday wines such as Cerasuolo Donna Bosco Rosé ’15. Strawberry, mandarin orange, dried roses – it is agile and easy in the glass, without lacking tone and length.

Nestore and Stefania Bosco

43 JANUARY 2017

THE GUIDE

FIVE ROSES 72° ANNIVERSARIO ’15 Leone de Castris

Salice Salentino (LE) | via Senatore de Castris, 26 | tel. 0832 731112 | www.leonedecastris.com 11 euros

2015

VALLE D’AOSTA CHAMBAVE MUSCAT ’15 La Crotta di Vegneron

Chambave (AO) | p.zza Roncas, 2 | tel. 0166 46670 | www.lacrotta.it 13,00 euro

On the main piazza of the little town of Chambave is the Crotta di Vegneron winery. This cooperative takes in over 120 members who cultivate 39 hectares of vineyard, for production that includes many types of grapes. For a Valle d’Aosta winery, it achieves impressive quantities. The cooperative concentrates its energy on the most important varieties of the zone: muscat and malvoisie (pinot grigio). Lo Chambave Muscat, which comes from grapes harvested between 450 and 680 meters of altitude, offers fragrant memories of fresh grapes and a palate with a stimulating bitter note.

Cristina Ciamporcero

VALLE D’AOSTA

photo

REGIONAL OSCARS

Piernicola Leone de Castris

Founded in 1665 by the Count of Lemos, the Leone de Castris winery began bottling its wines in 1925. In 1943, it created Five Roses, the first rosato bottle in Italy. The winery was the principal protagonist in the birth of the Salice Salentino denomination in the early 1970s. Released first in 1993, the 50th anniversary of the first bottling, the Anniversario version of Five Roses is made with 80% negroamaro and 20% of malvasia nera. It comes from the oldest vines in the Cinque Rose contrada. Five Roses Settantaduesimo Anniversario ’15 presents floral and spicy aromas, along with hints of wild strawberries. The palate is fresh, with notes of red fruit. It has good length and sapidity.

The President Sandro Théodule

44 JANUARY 2017

PIEDMONT

DOLCETTO D’ALBA ’15 Cantina Pertinace

Treiso (CN) | loc. Pertinace, 2 | tel. 0173 442238 | www.pertinace.it 9.70 euros

The director Cesare Barbero

LIGURIA

ROSSESE DI DOLCEACQUA ’15 Maccario Dringenberg San Biagio della Cima (IM) | via Torre, 3 | tel. 0184 289947 11.80 euro

San Biagio della Cima is a small town in Alta Vallecrosia, perched behind Bordighera, in the hinterland of Imperia. Giovanna Maccario and her husband, Goetz Dringenberg, built a wine estate there based on constancy and high quality. The winery in the ancient village is small, and not easy to get around. To work there requires physical prowess and careful attention. But from here, for years, great red wines have emerged, like this Dolceacqua ’15. From its intense color opens a floral bouquet with flavors of ripe fruit that evolve towards bark and black pepper tones, with a very elegant tannic weave.

Giovanna Maccario

45 JANUARY 2017

Between the end of 1972 and he beginning of 1973, in Pertinace, in the municipality of Treiso, the winery led by Mario Barbero and thirteen other grape-growing members was founded. At present, the winery’s management is entrusted to Bruno Fiori, president, and Cesare Barbero, enologist and director, the son of Mario, from whom he inherited the constancy and professionalism that guarantees production of a noteworthy qualitative level to all the growers involved. This little cooperative has been able to stay faithful to its initial objectives: quality products, properly priced. Exploiting the Treiso terroir, the winery has always released a great Dolcetto. The 2015 version is fragrant and crisp.

THE GUIDE

LOMBARDY

OP PINOT NERO BRUGHERIO ’14 Marchese Adorno Retorbido (PV) | via Garlassolo, 30 | tel. 0383 374404 | www.marcheseadorno-wines.it 9.90 euros

After undergoing many changes, the property of Marchese Marcello Cattaneo Adorno has found its place, the correct approach to best showing off its great available resources and potential. Alongside the classic Pinot Nero suitable for aging, a younger style is finding its feet, a wine that is fresh, fragrant, less serious, if we can use that word. This is the case with Brugherio ’14: varietal aromas of violets and wild berries, elegant, fresh, with clean and silky tannin. It is a wonderfully drinkable wine and very eclectic in its potential pairings.

The Marchese Marcello Cattaneo Adorno

TRENTINO

The director Massimo Benetello

CUVÉE BRUT RISERVA Cesarini Sforza

Trento | fraz. Ravina | via Stella, 9 | tel. 0461 382200 | www. cesarinisforza.com 11.60 euros

This historic spumante-producing winery in the Trentino region is connected to the La Vis group. It has been collecting market and critical success despite the recent (now overcome) travails of the mother ship. Cuvée Brut Riserva has a good harmonious timbre, agile and energetic structure, with a floral, fine, and delicate nose. It shows personality on the palate, in a decidedly mountain-type style thanks to the percentage of chardonnay that distinguishes it. It is well-blended and easy to approach, versatile and particularly pleasant. It is the benchmark Cesarini Sforza spumante, made with an exclusive process, the Nereo Cavazzani method, which is the synthesis of a stubborn devotion to making the best sparkling wines. It is offered at a truly honest price for a spumante that has no need to envy its brothers in the denomination.

Petra Mayr foto

ALTO ADIGE

A. A. LAGO DI CALDARO CL. SUP. GREIFENBERG ’15 Cantina di Caldaro Caldaro/Kaltern (BZ) | via Cantine,12 | tel. 0471 963149 | www.kellereikaltern.com 7.60 euros

This historic cooperative structure in Caldaro has for some time been one of the largest in the zone, an elegant interpreter of the area beyond the Adige, in particular of the wines of Lake Caldaro, the grapegrowing and cultural center of the winery. The greater part of the 300 hectares of vineyard managed by its 400 members are here. Every year they demonstrate the quality of this territory. Schiava is the most important variety for the winery and Lago di Caldaro Classico Superiore Greifenberg is a worthy representative of its family. Fermented on its skins with a week of maceration at controlled temperatures, it displays a ruby red color. On the nose, fruity notes, tones of wild berries and bitter almonds. The palate is savory and full, with a soft, fresh finish.

Andrea Moser

VENETO

SOAVE ’15 Dal Cero Tenuta di Corte Giacobbe

Roncà (VR) | via Moschina,11 | tel. 045 7460110 | www.vinidalcero. com

7.70 euro

The Dal Cero family manages the difficult task of harmonizing a peasant soul, respectful of nature’s timing, traditions, and historic types, with an entrepreneurial mind that requires quick decision making and a market-conscious eye. Soave is one of Italy’s great whites, and Dal Cero offers two versions. We particular noticed the simpler one, striking for the intensity of its aromas of white plum and apples, with fresh floral shading in the background. In the mouth, savory acidic energy amplifies pleasure. Drink it now as an aperitif or wait a couple of years when it will enhance delicate versions of fish or lamb dishes. 47 JANUARY 2017

THE GUIDE

FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA

BLANC DI SIMON ’15 Simon di Brazzan

Cormòns (GO) | fraz. Brazzano | via San Rocco, 17 | tel. 0481 61182 | www.simondibrazzan.com 11.80 euros

Simon di Brazzan is a beautiful winery in Cormòns, owned by Enrico Veliscig. At the venerable age of 98, he still helps his grandson Daniele Drius in the vineyard. Drius took over the management more than twenty years ago and immediately banned the use of chemicals, introducing only natural practices. For some years he has been a fervid follower of biodynamic methods. Blanc di Simon ’15 is a sunny, fragrant Friulano with scents of wisteria and lemon cream. The mouth is particularly full, juicy and flavorful, with an extended, relaxed finish. Enrico Veliscig

EMILIA ROMAGNA

ROMAGNA SANGIOVESE SUP. VIGN. GALASSI ’15 Gruppo Cevico Lugo (RA) | via Fiumazzo, 72 | tel. 0545 284711 | www.gruppocevico.com 6.00 euros

A community of 4,500 participating grapegrowers is an incredible work force that allow Cevico to invest in quality projects. They can choose grapes from 6,700 hectares of vineyard, employing a deep understanding of the territory that was unthinkable years ago. Today they can deliver popular wines with strong identities. Superiore Vigneti Galassi is an example of what it means to join quantity production to quality, offering dependable wines that are good, territorial, and affordable. The 2015 is a substantial, open and fruity wine, with a palate that impresses with appealing freshness. A good quality popular wine.

The president Ruenza Santandrea

TUSCANY

MORELLINO DI SCANSANO ROGGIANO ’15 Cantina dei Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano Scansano (GR) | loc. Saragiolo | tel. 0564507288 | www.cantinadelmorellino.it 7.90 euros

Founded in 1972 as a response to the crisis in the zone’s mining sector and then managed with commitment and passion by experts and simple farmers in the Maremma, the Cantina Cooperativa del Morellino di Scansano is by now one of the most modern cooperative winegrowers, demonstrating gradually developed reliable quality. Wines are unimpeachably made and each fully expresses its own variety. Morellino Roggiano ’15 displays fresh, intense aromas of cherries and a sweet spiciness on the nose. The palate is full, warm, pleasantly tannic, and has a long cherry finish. The president Benedetto Grechi

MARCHE

VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. ANDREA FELICI ’15 Andrea Felici Apiro (MC) | via Sant’Isidoro, 28 | tel. 0733611431 | www.andreafelici.it 11.10 euros

Leo Felici is one of the pillars of the denomination with his taut, sculpted, saline wines, expression of a terroir that draws its strength from its explicit Apennine origins. Verdicchio is aged in stainless steel and cement vats. It is the only variety here, even in the new vineyard planted next to the old one, Cantico della Figura. Leo Felici wines are an admirable blend of the energy coming from the Jesi slopes and the acidic backbone from the Matelica side. The vineyards of Ca’ di Chiocco are at 600 meters on the east slope of San Vicino, while those in the San Francesco cru touch Cupramontana. Andrea Felici ’15 is made with grapes from both crus, and it “floats like a butterfly, stings like a bee,” with light aromas of stones, grass and almond reverberating on a palate of piercing tension and deep flavor: the Mohammed Ali of Berebene 2017.

Leopardo Felici

49 JANUARY 2017

THE GUIDE

UMBRIA

TORGIANO ROSSO RUBESCO ’13 Lungarotti v.le G. Lungarotti, 2 | tel. 075988661 | www.lungarotti.it

10.70 euros

Founded in 1960 by Giorgio Lungarotti, this winery represents the central core of Umbrian winemaking. Giorgio is an ardent experimenter. Besides preserving and spotlighting indigenous varieties, he has been able to create an avant-garde winery based on rational methods and winemaking technology. Giorgio Lungarotti invested intuition and pragmatism, but the creativity in the project comes above all from his wife Maria Grazia. Among other things, the Wine Museum included, she invented the name Rubesco, which has become a famous brand. The 2013 harvest gave something special to this wine, which is rarely under par. Fine and sinuous, it has a nose of berries and light spices. The palate is crisp yet meaty, agile but substantial. Very, very good.

Chiara Lungarotti

LAZIO

CAPOLEMOLE BIANCO ’15 Marco Carpineti Cori (LT) | s.da prov.le Velletri-Anzio, 3 | tel. 069679860 | www.marcocarpineti.com 8.90 euros

Carpineti offers natural, organic viticulture, and even uses horses to work among the vines. The vineyards, located on soil of volcanic origin rich in tufaceous and calcareous skeleton elements, guarantee the production of a wide range of labels with an excellent price/quality ratio. Made from monovarietal bellone grapes, which have always grown on Cori’s soil, Capolemole Bianco ’15 displays aromas of honey, chestnuts and yellow fruit. The palate is wonderfully textured, balanced, and elegant in its sapidity. Marco Carpineti

50 JANUARY 2017

ABRUZZO

CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO BALDOVINO ’15 Tenuta I Fauri

Chieti (CH) | s.da Corta, 9 | tel. 0871332627 | www.tenutaifauri.it 5.90 euros

Tenuta I Fauri lies at the heart of the Colline Teatine, the hills where the Majella mountains slope towards the Adriatic Sea. Domenico Di Camillo, with his children, Valentina and Luigi, both enologists, carry on Abruzzo’s winemaking traditions. They follow their winery with dedication and dynamism, focusing on indigenous varieties such as pecorino. The traditional Abruzzese cultivars are vinified in a modular cellar, favoring the production of original bottles such as Cerasuolo Baldovino ’15. No sweet or fermented sensations but juicy, saline substance, enhanced by an energetic floral sensation. Luigi and Valentina Di Camillo

MOLISE

Antonio Grieco

MOLISE TINTILIA 200 METRI ’15 Tenimenti Grieco Portocannone (CB) | c.da Difensola | tel. 0875590032 | www.tenimentigrieco.it 9.20 euros

Portacannone is the area of Molise most densely covered with vineyards. On medium-consistency soil, at 300 meters of altitude, grow numerous indigenous and international varieties. Particular attention is paid to the ruling variety of the region: tintilia. After only a few vintage years, Tenimenti Grieco has already found its place at the top of Molise’s wine hit parade. The star of their wide range of labels is once again Tintilia 200 Metri, one of the best reds in the region in this 2015 version. It is meaty and wild, harmonizing its rich fruitiness with smoky and spicy notes. The palate, too, is delicious, but never banal or predictable.

THE GUIDE

CALÙ ’15 Sclavia

CAMPANIA

Liberi (CE) | via Case Sparse | tel. 3356654770 | www.sclavia.com 10.90 euros

Andrea Granito, who has headed this winery in Liberi since 2003, managed to stand out rapidly with his production in the Caserta zone. An osteopath, Andrea satisfied his passion for the soil by restoring the land that had once been cultivated by his grandfather. He planted indigenous, traditional grapes such as casavecchia and pallagrello. Calù ’15 is a pallagrello bianco, distinguished by fine, intense nuances and a long finish on the palate. The nose is rich in apricots and honey. Agile, appealingly tasty in the mouth.

Anna Della Porta, Andrea Granito e Lucia Ferrara

BASILICATA

AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE BALÌ ’13 Cantina di Venosa Venosa (PZ) | loc. Vignali | via Appia | tel. 097236702 | www.cantinadivenosa.it 7.60 euros

Cantina di Venosa is the benchmark productive structure of the region. Founded in 1957, today it produces 800,000 bottles per year, the result of the selection of the best grapes from 500 participating members. Its production range is vast and high quality. Alongside structured and longlived versions of Aglianico, such as Carato Venusio, we also find labels in a more immediate and simple style. Balì ’13 is a wine with a handsome, intense ruby color. Its structure is slim, balanced, fresh and richly fruity. Balsamic and medicinal herb nuances will enchant you, as will the softness of its tannins. Delicious in the glass, and delightfully affordable.

Il direttore Antonio Teora

52 JANUARY 2017

PUGLIA

TENUTE NERO DI TROIA ’15 Rasciatano

Barletta (BT) | fraz. Rasciatano | s.da st.le 93 km 13 | tel. 0883510999 | www.rasciatano.com 11.00 euros

Gian Michel Porro, Maria Luisa Cafiero and Ferdinando Cafiero

CALABRIA

TERRE DI COSENZA SETTE CHIESE ’15 Serracavallo

Bisignano (CS) | c.da Serracavallo | tel. 098421144 | www.viniserracavallo.it 8.20 euros

Demetrio Stancati, the volcanic president of the Terre di Cosenza denomination, is one of the most active and likeable growers in the entire region. Over the years he has managed to restore the land belonging to his family in the heart of the Valle del Crati, and to make it productive with high quality viticulture. On his estate in Bisignano, he grows above all magliocco grapes, pushing his vineyards up to 700 meters of altitude. His Sette Chiese ’15, a blend of magliocco and a small percentage of merlot, has a fine, elegant nose where grassy tones of medicinal herbs blend well with sweet and fruity notes. The palate is full and juicy, well-supported by acidity and tannins for a coherent finish on which herbs and fruit return.

TERRE di COSENZA

Denominazione di Origine Protetta

SETTE CHIESE

Demetrio Stancati

53 JANUARY 2017

Vigne di Rasciatano is located in the countryside of the Murgia zone, halfway between the sea and the hills. The Porro family has owned the estate for four centuries. Besides being known as a distinguished wine producer, the estate has gained a well-deserved reputation for its olive oil production. The vineyards are all around the estate headquarters, on sandy soil with a substrata of calcareous rock. Tenute Nero di Troia ’15 offers an exemplary quality/price ratio, and it is one of the best Nero di Troia labels of the vintage year. Red fruit aromas are joined with grassy and balsamic notes, followed by a palate of noteworthy energy and acidic thrust. It is fresh and pleasant to drink.

THE GUIDE

SICILY

SICILIA NERO D’AVOLA ’14 Feudo Principi di Butera

Butera (CL) | c.da Deliella | tel. 0934347726 | www.feudobutera.it 10.00 euros

The wines of the Feudo Principi di Butera, the Sicilian winery belonging to the Zonin family, continue to grow in number. The estate, which belonged to the princes of Butera, was purchased in 1997 when the ancient baglio (winemaking center) was restored. A modern facility was built, framed by vineyards and olive groves. Our tastings, in fact, show average point scores in continual ascent for this beautiful estate. It can count on almost 200 hectares of vineyard and ultra-modern winemaking facilities. Our award went to Nero d’Avola ’14, a champion of pleasure offering complexity and structure as well. Black fruit, Mediterranean herbs, ink and minerality on the nose. The palate is fresh and well-divided between pulpy fruit and dense, smooth tannins.

The director Antonio Paolo Froio

SARDINIA

VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA I PAPIRI ’15 Santa Maria La Palma Alghero (SS) | fraz. Santa Maria La Palma | tel. 079999008 | www.santamarialapalma.it 10.10 euros

Mario Peretto

54 JANUARY 2017

An historic cooperative winery with headquarters in Alghero, Santa Maria La Palma has been able, over the years, to produce excellent wines that can compete with the best labels on this island region. As with every cooperative, the range of wines is wide, but all are characterized by an excellent price/quality ratio. Indigenous varieties dominate, but some international varieties are still grown. The excellent results over recent years from the Santa Maria La Palma cooperative can be seen in I Papiri, a delicious Vermentino di Sardegna, with about 70,000 bottles produced. This label comes from a careful selection of these white-berried grapes, which can offer complex and typical fragrances ranging from candied lemon to marine herbs, from loquats to passion fruit. The palate satisfies expectations, offering exemplary freshness in the mouth, along with structure and body. The finish is focused on sapidity and perception of iodine sensations.

o r e o R WINE TRAVEL

texts and photos by Massimiliano Rella

Great wines and splendid salumi

56 JANUARY 2017

Along the ochre ridges of the Rocche, that stretch of marl north of the Tanaro, lies a strip of Piedmont – the hills of Roero – where a sense of what’s good and beautiful in life is renewed at every turn. The body recharges. The spirit is refreshed by a magical alchemy of well-being that permeates the zone’s woods, Savoy castles, orchards and lush vineyards.

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TRAVEL

mong the hills of the Roero, a zone designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, visitors find tempting, authentic food and wine along with simple hospitality that is, perhaps, a little shy, but warm. The cornucopia of traditional wines, cucina and local products also holds surprises. Think of the first spumante cider from Madernassa pears, or the rediscovery of food-quality hemp made into flour, oil and seeds. Creative wooden kitchen utensils and renewed beer pride are appearing in a land that is dominated by the great names in wine. Ideas, experimentation, and new projects are often sparked by the young or by the ‘ex’ category – excomputer technicians, ex-chemists, ex-industrial designers – who decided to change their lives and reinvent themselves as carpenters, craft beer producers, salumieri. Some pick up the threads of a family tradition that was about to disappear, some transform a private passion into profitable work. Roero helps and backs such efforts, thanks to the potential for wine tourism that still awaits development. “Great red and white wines such as Roero DOCG and Roero Arneis come from our hills, but our beer is picking up speed on a parallel track. It is a less demanding beverage, balanced, and easier to pair with food, with no extremes or noticeable spiciness. It is suited to our territory-based cooking that doesn’t favor exaggerated flavors,” explained Alessandro Accossato and Alberto Scaglione. They are at the new Birrificio Alba, which has been producing “raw, unfiltered, bottle-fermented” beer in Guarene since 2015, after the two men had worked for many years in a chemistry lab (Alessandro) and a tire distribution agency (Alberto). Two other young men, Massimo Rivata and Emanuele Borio, launched the first spumante cider made from Madernassa pears two years ago.

Guarene (cn), historic center, in the background, the Church of San Michele

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Emanuele Borio (left) and Massimo Rivata, producers of Maderé

Alessandro Accossato (left) and Alberto Scaglione, beer producers from Guarene and the Birrificio Alba

Beer and Cider From the terroir – not just wine Raw, unfiltered, re-fermented in the bottle for at least a month “to develop a rich bouquet”. In the 19th century cellars of Cascina del Conte in Guarene, in the new Birrificio Alba, young Alessandro Accossato and Alberto Scaglione produce five artisanal beers. Blanche goes well with fish, light first courses and fresh cheeses. Marte is ideal with grilled meat, game and stews, thanks to its intense caramelized notes. After two years of experimentation, the two young farmers, Emanuele Borio and Massimo Rivata, in 2014 launched Maderè, the first ‘perry’, a spumante version of Madernassa pears, a local variety. Its low alcohol content (8%)makes it suitable for aperitifs or pairing with simply prepared fish dishes, seafood salad, spaghetti with seafood, cheeses and salumi. Try it with vegetable pizza. It has no gluten or sulfites, and is a vegan product. Birrificio Artigianale Alba | via Roero 27 | Guarene (CN) | tel. 328 485 7078 | www.birrificioalba.it Ortofrutta Orto Smeraldo | via Mulino Vecchio 49 | Frazione Vaccheria | Guarene (CN) | tel 0173.211538 | www.ortosmeraldo.it Madernass pears

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Called Maderè, it is from a variety native to the Roero. For now, they turn out 5,000 bottles. “Cider really comes from apples, but since this comes from pears, we call it a perry. But it’s complicated enough promoting it as cider!” said Borio. “Once upon a time, it was a well-known drink here in the north, but today it is a challenge to convince people to serve it on their tables. However, after an initial unfamiliarity, those who sample it, like it a lot.” The strategy adopted by Rivata and Borio involves collaboration with other players on Roero’s gastronomy scene, for example, a beer flavored with pear juice made by the Birrificio Alba, a Maderè risotto featured by chef Davide Odore at his Miralanghe restaurant, and a “perry” gelato at the Mara dei Boschi gelateria in Alba. Rivata and Borio have always been connected to agriculture: the former makes wine in the Langa. Borio sells produce in his own store, L’Orto Smeraldo, (the Golden Garden). In contrast, ex-restorer, Luca Aloi, spent years in front of masterpieces of art and antique objects before he reinvented himself as a dog trainer and truffle hunter, trusting in the subtle sense of smell of his four faithful four-footed helpers. Today he also leads tourists and aficionados on truffle hunts, stopping along the way to sample salumi, cheeses, and trufflescented products from the Roero in a rustic hut. “Welcome to Canale, the town of wine and baked ham!” That’s how Sandro Faccenda, another ‘ex’ who also exchanged his jacket and tie for a butcher’s apron, greeted us. “I was an IT manager and did well financially. But faced with the idea of closing my father’s butcher shop a few years ago, I learned his profession.” Today he makes delicious cured meats, salumi, of all sorts – pancetta, salami, and the Canale specialty, baked ham cooked in a low-temperature oven for six

A cellar of details at the trattoria Cantina dei Cacciatori

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Salumi Baked Ham of Canale Sandro Faccenda continues a four-generation tradition of butchering and meat-curing (norcineria), begun in 1894. Besides salami, cooked and raw, salamini and pancetta, he prepares exquisite baked ham with artisanal care. Pork haunches are skinned, boned and excess fat removed. They are then set to soak in white Roero Arneis wine for two days. When dried, they are salted, peppered and rubbed with large cloves of garlic and a mix of herbs such as fresh rosemary. Hand-sewn and bound with elastic string to hold the prosciutto tightly as it cooks, the meat stays compact. The leaner side of the haunch is covered with a piece of pork skin to favor a slow release of the internal fats as the ham is baked for six hours in a convection oven at low temperature. Made without preservatives, Canale baked ham is served in slices with mayonnaise or a drop of balsamic vinegar.

Sandro Faccenda and his baked ham, artisanal specialty of canale

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2400 producers 22000 wines 429 Tre Bicchieri 88 Tre Bicchieri verdi

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Vineria and Trattoria Rocca Rostìa

hours. In the shadow of the Castello di Guarene, forty-year-old Cristiano Rapetti, a professional administrator, is transforming his carpentering hobby into work he aims to turn full-time. Following designs by his wife Vittoria, and using local, certified solid wood trunks, he makes objects and furnishings for bars, wineries and kitchens: cutting boards shaped like bunches of grapes or bottles, carts especially designed for prosciutto-slicing, personalized counters, tables and chairs. Another development comes from the Ruata family, entrepreneurs in the oil sector (extra-virgin Goccia d’Oro, seed oils, blended oils, rice oils). In the fields of their farm Tenute del Roero, in Baldissero d’Alba, the Ruatas have planted about fifty hectares of canapa sativa, hemp, the carmagnola variety, to transform into hemp seed flour, hemp seed oil, hulled hemp seeds, pesto made with hemp seeds. With all this buzzing activity, the world of wine did not stand idle. The

Ecomuseo The trails on the Rocche The Ecomuseum of the Rocche, founded in 2003, showcases the natural resources of the Roero, a territory that was named a UNESCO World Heritage, along with Langhe and Monferrato. The hills of the Roero are crossed by a marl ridge about 40 kilometers long that passes by eight towns, from Pocapaglia (Cuneo) to Cisterna d’Asti, the only municipality of Asti touched by this geologic phenomenon, also known as “the capture of the Tanaro”. The natural, woody area is crossed by eighteen circular thematic trails and four cycling itineraries that make it easy to explore the territories of the 23 municipalities of the Roero www.ecomuseodellerocche.it The Rocche landscape seen from Montaldo Roero. In the background, the Castello di Monteu

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Visiting the Winery Crutìn And Ciabòt Crutìn are grottoes and caverns excavated centuries ago alongside the cellars of soft stone in the Rocche. They have been used since the 17th century, when the use of glass bottles to store wine began. In the historic centers of Roero many houses still have their crutìn. Two can be found in Monteu Roero in the B&B Corte dei Rotari. One is inside the building, used to age and taste wine. The other is near the central piazza, set up for local artists’ shows and group tastings. Ciabòt are small rustic wooden cabins built to store farm tools in the fields and vineyards. Among the most beautiful is the scenic one belonging to the Maurizio Ponchione winery, at the peak of the Bricco degli Albazzi, on the border of the Asti province. Don’t miss visiting the beautiful Angelo Negro winery in Monteu Roero, run with passion and skill by Giovanni Negro and his four children. From Negro’s barrels come enological jewels such as Sudisfà 2013, a Roero Docg Riserva made with the best nebbiolo grapes (Tre Bicchieri in Vini d’Italia 2017). Among whites, Perdaudin Roero Arneis has notes of acacia and orange blossoms and an assertive palate with a long finish. In Canale, the Enoteca Regionale del Roero offers a true panorama of the zone’s wine production. Be sure to visit the Matteo Correggia winery. Among its projects is the conversion of its vineyards to organic methods, a Nebbiolo aged in a ceramic amphora, and Arneis in a screw-top bottle, aged for 6-8 years.

Producer Maurizio Ponchione in his vineyard, Bricco degli Albazzi

The vaults of the Matteo Correggia cellar and two ceramic amphorae for an experiment with Nebbiolo

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first news is from the Enoteca Regionale del Roero, a local temple to wine featuring the stellar cucina of Davide Palluda (his recipes appear here on page 64). A new administrator, Pierpaolo Guelfo, has taken over, relaunched promotion initiatives and redesigned the spaces inside the wine bar. The producers’ Consorzio recently approved a new category, menzioni geografiche aggiuntive, the so-called cru, which could appear on labels as soon as the release of the 2017 vintage year. The same year will see the first Roero Arneis Riserva bottles, whites at least 16 months old, counting from the harvest. “This new idea will showcase the aging ability of whiteberried arneis varieties,” pointed out Giovanni Negro, from the Angelo Negro winery. “Since 2001, in the best vintage years we have been producing 7 anni, an Arneis white that ages in stainless steel for six months and for six and half years in the bottle.” A long-aging white is also among the projects of the Matteo Correggia winery. It will be ready in 2018, with the 2012 vintage. “Time brings out the minerality of this variety,” explained Ornella Correggia, who has run the winery since the death of her husband, together with her children Giovanni and Brigitta. Our side trip among the vineyards closed with a tasting in a scenic ciabòt, the typical farm storage shed that producer Maurizio Ponchione has transformed into a space for welcoming visitors. We took a short hike to the peak of the Bricco degli Albazzi, but the effort was rewarded by a delicious afternoon snack (cold cuts, prosciutto, cheeses, focaccia, frittata made with home-grown herbs) accompanied by Ponchione’s white and red wines. “Here we’re at the gates of the Roero!” exclaimed the vigneron. “Right under this hill is Monferrato and the Asti province,” another beautiful UNESCO heritage landscape.

Cantina Angelo Negro, in Monteu Roero Giovanni Negro, center, with his sons Angelo (left) and Gabriele

Ristorante Madernassa Resort: Homage to Kandinsky, Veal tongue confit in a red and green bath with traditional bread sauce

64 JANUARY 2017

Where to sleep Casalora | loc. Lora 3 | Guarene (CN) | tel. 334 829 9339 | www.casalora.it

Castello di Guarene | Roero, 2 | Guarene (CN) | tel. 0173 441332 | www.castellodiguarene.com

Salumeria Faccenda | via Roma 113 | Canale (CN) | tel. 0173.978131 | www.faccendasalumi.it

via A.

65 JANUARY 2017

VMGuarene | via A. Roero 22 | Guarene (CN) | tel. 391 379 8482 | www.vmguarene.com

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

He has brought his own home territory out of the shadow of the nearby Langhe, given depth to the Enoteca Regionale and presents his Roero zone in each of his dishes, recounting the land and its history. Davide Palluda offers a model of cucina that is creative and territorial, intelligent and knowledgeable.

by Francesco Seccagno

Davide Palluda

THE ROERO ACCORDING TO ME 67 JANUARY 2017

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

Colors and flavors

that pierce the fog “Feet planted on the Roero hills and gaze turned towards dreams and the world.” That’s how Davide Palluda describes himself. As a chef, he is bonded with his territory and its excellent products. Born in 1971, he owns, along with his sister Ivana, the Enoteca that is inside the Enoteca Regionale del Roero, the wine bar opened in 1995. He came there after a series of important and deep experiences in Liguria and the Langhe – an area he now defines as the “Sister hills” alongside his Roero. He has become a flagbearer for his zone. “I was barely 24 years old, but full of dreams and enthusiasm. I took the reins of that first organic project to spotlight the wine and food culture of our Roero territory.” Before then it had been overshadowed by the much better-known nearby Langhe. The elements of his cucina are freshness and color, tradition and territory, intelligence and knowledge. The dishes we present here demonstrate those qualities. Puréed sweet potato, Jerusalem artichoke, chestnuts, cardoons, milk curds, white truffles: these are all ingredients from his territory, brought together and reviewed in a modern key. “It is a dish with the aromas of winter, mild but intense flavor – I think it represents the best in my cooking style,” said the chef. Then we see a work of homage to a grand Piedmontese chef, Nino Bergese: l’uovo in pasta, an egg in pasta. “I tried to look again at this great dish. My objective was to maintain the essence of the original version, simply changing the consistency of the ingredients.” Another tribute looks back at traditions from the reign of the Savoys, la finanziera. “This was a key dish among affluent Piedmontese. I have been perfecting the preparation of this great recipe for a long time. It takes time and organization to get good results. It’s difficult to manage to put together all the ingredients and coordinate their arrival in the kitchen.” And to close the meal, dessert: this too is an ode to the Piedmontese chocolate tradition, but obviously also with a contemporary slant. “I would call it a ‘chef ’s dessert’, almost sugarless, that plays with bitter and toasty tones, and features a pairing that I find fantastic – chocolate and black winter truffles.” All’Enoteca | Canale (CN) | via Roma, 57 | tel. 0173 95857 | www.davidepalluda.it

68 JANUARY 2017

Purée of sweet potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, chestnuts, cardoons, milk curds and white truffle Ingredients for 4 servings 150 g peeled sweet potato 150 g peeled white potato 50 g chestnuts 100 g blanched cardoons 100 g Jerusalem artichokes, baked at 200°C for 20 minutes 30 g olive oil 50 g whole milk White truffle, brushed and rinsed For milk curds: 250 g whole fresh milk a few drops of rennet a little lemon juice salt and black pepper

Brown the white potatoes and the sweet potatoes gently in olive oil. Add water and milk, cooking until tender. Taste for salt and purée in food processor until smooth and homogeneous. Sauté together Jerusalem artichokes cut into cubes, cardoons and chestnuts. Heat the milk to 36°C, add rennet and let coagulate. Drain the curds and blend in a food processor with salt and a few drops of lemon juice. In heated soup dishes, arrange the potato purée, then the sautéed chestnuts, cardoons and Jerusalem artichokes. Last, add two tablespoons of milk curds. Cover with shavings of white truffle. The milk curds can be replaced by a light fondue of taleggio and stracchino cheese, prepared by diluting the cheeses in hot whole fresh milk.

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

Egg in pasta, porcini mushrooms and whipped butter Ingredients for 4 servings For the fresh pasta: 500 g flour 4 whole eggs 2 egg yolks Work the ingredients together for a long time and leave to rest at least 3 hours before using. For the filling: 500 g ricotta 30 g grated parmigiano 80 g watercress, blanched and well squeezed-out 20 g extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper to taste

4 fresh guinea hen eggs porcini mushrooms chopped parsley

Blend energetically ricotta, chopped watercress, parmigiano, extra-virgin olive oil. Taste for salt and pepper. Roll out the fresh pasta into a thin sheet. Brush with egg white and place the guinea hen egg yolks about 8 cm apart. With the help of a pastry bag, arrange circles of filling around the egg yolks. Cover it all with a second sheet of fresh pasta of the same size. Shape the large ravioli and cut them out with a metal dough cutter. SautĂŠ the cleaned, sliced porcini mushrooms in a little extra-virgin olive oil. Season with salt and chopped parsley. Cook the ravioloni in simmering water, drain when the egg yolk inside is still fluid.

Arrange the porcini mushrooms on the bottom of hot dishes, arrange the ravioloni on top and finish with a dab of whipped butter. p.s. Whipped butter can be made by beating fresh butter at room temperature, with cold water and salt.

La finanziera Ingredients for 4 servings 12 meatballs from Bra sausage 20 cock’s combs 4 veal bone marrows 4 veal sweetbreads 2 veal brains 4 rabbit livers 150 g pork fillet 2 porcini mushrooms preserved in vinegar ½ yellow onion 2 bay leaves

Leave the livers to soak in milk and ice for 3 hours. Cook the sweetbreads and the cock’s combs in a classic court bouillon for 15 minutes. Cool them in water and ice. Blanch the marrow and brain to facilitate the removal of the thin external layer. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a pan and brown the meatballs, marrow, sweetbreads, brains, liver, pork fillet and the combs that have been previously floured and cut into pieces. As each ingredient is browned, remove the fat from the pan and deglaze with Marsala wine. The liquid will be used to help the cooking of the organ meats. Meanwhile, in a copper casserole, sweat ½ chopped onion with two tablespoons of butter and the bay leaf. Add sliced porcini mushrooms and the meats. Reduce with vinegar, add the brown stock and leave the stew to rest, covered, for 3-4 minutes until well-blended. .

100 cl Marsala wine 20 cl vinegar 50 cl brown stock Salt, pepper, butter and flour as needed To assure best results, the ingredients must be absolutely fresh. 71 JANUARY 2017

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

Chocolate tart 75%, unrefined salt, extra-virgin olive oil and black truffle Ingredients for 4 servings 90 g chocolate 75% 100 g milk 20 g heavy cream 30 g egg shortcrust pastry dough unrefined salt extra-virgin olive oil, preferably

Ligurian

Roll out the pastry dough between two sheets of wax paper. Line four molds about 8 cm in diameter with the pastry, leave them in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Then bake at 180Â°C for 8 minutes. Cook the black truffle, sliced, in water and sugar. Break the chocolate into little pieces and immerse in boiling cream. Mix the egg with the milk and blend the two preparations, beating energetically.

black truffle

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Fill the crusts and bake in a 160Â°C oven for 6 minutes. Remove from molds while still tepid. Arrange on plates with a few grains of unrefined salt. Serve quickly with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and the slices of black truffle.

PAIRINGS

Purée of sweet potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, chestnuts, cardoons,

Egg in pasta, porcini mushrooms

This wine is produced only in Verduno, made from a most unusual grape variety, Palaverga Piccolo. It offers wonderful aromas of pepper and spices. “Aromatic and intense, it is perfect with the floury and herbaceous notes of the dish,” explained the Canale chef.

“A great, balanced, intense wine much sought after and desired by my dear friend Giacomo,” explained Davide Palluda. “Unfortunately, he’s no longer with us, but the wine that bears his name has his temperament: proud and gentle.” It comes from the Valmaggiore cru, one of the sunniest hills around Alba. It spends a year in large wooden barrels and two in the bottle before release.

and whipped butter

milk curds and white truffle

La finanziera

Chocolate tart 75%, unrefined salt, extra-virgin olive oil and black truffle

Barbera d’Alba 2015 | Cecilia Monte | Neive (CN) | via Serracapelli, 17 | tel. 0173 67454

After the impossible 2014 vintage, 2015 improved the mood of the winegrower who returned to run her grandparents’ winery in 2000. “This Barbera is a very, very interesting wine. We tasted it in the cellar together with Cecilia,” remembered Davide. “It is harmonious and has wonderful acidity, perfect for sustaining the sumptuous personality of the La finanziera.”

It is never easy to pair chocolate. In this case, though, the cacao is enriched and made more complex by the savory, spicy and herbaceous notes of the truffle. “Barolo chinato served cold helps along this complex and fairly bitter dessert,” explained the chef. “This one made by the Ceretto family has warm, amber notes, slightly citrusy, that are perfect for my tart.” 73

JANUARY 2017

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