Wine Travel Food July August 2018 by Gambero Rosso

year 21 - number 120 - july-august 2018 - gamberorosso.it

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

VERMENTINO THE SEA WHISPERER GERMANY The group of young and talented chefs and winemakers who are changing the game



PRIMITIVO AND MURGIA Primitivo is always the first grape to ripe in Puglia. Here Women in Wine draw a new tourism route



SIENA Tuscany in August. Follow our guide to one of the most inspiring medieval city in Italy

Savour the landscape, too. Tenute SalvaTerra has been awarded the international “Best of Wine Tourism” award 2018 for the “Architecture and Landscapes” category. Architecture, landscape and wine are intricately linked, as all three are the result of human thought and work. This time, we have not won recognition for our wines, but for our commitment to nurturing and promoting a major wine region and its produce.

The stunning natural beauty of Valpolicella awaits you.

SOMMARIO 4

year 21 - number 120 - july-august 2018 - gamberorosso.it

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

6 8 9  10   16 

VERMENTINO THE SEA WHISPERER GERMANY The group of young and talented chefs and winemakers who are changing the game



PRIMITIVO AND MURGIA Primitivo is always the first grape to ripe in Puglia. Here Women in Wine draw a new tourism route



SIENA Tuscany in August. Follow our guide to one of the most inspiring medieval city in Italy

Wine in a cage Food News Wine News Wine of the month Gambero Rosso on the road Top Italian Restaurants in Berlin

 20 

The Group of young people who are changing the German Food and Wine

 30 

Primitivo and Murgia Tarantina. Women in wine draw a new tourism route in Puglia

 38 

Colli di Luni seaside. Vermentino torn away from woodland and stone

 52 

Recipes by Angelo Sabatelli Full-court Siena

 58 

20 38

Wine in a cage The world of wine tends to increasingly classify every single bottle in precise categories that, in some ways, remove the fantasy that each contains. These categories, often in watertight compartments, tend to simplify the world of wine to make it easier for the consumer, who, after all, is the one moving the markets and sales with their own choices, and that’s who we should think about it. This is an understandable choice, but it’s a also policy dictated mainly (and exclusively) by commercial strategy needs; this is what Americans and British who aim to make their wine known do: not through a myriad of territories rich in differences (which they actually do not have), but through a few vines and giving wines a standardized flavour (we would call it stereotyped). These are the so-called varietal wines, principles of the Anglo-Saxon markets and undisputed lords of the low-cost segments of those markets. Clearly, this strategy can also be applauded as long as it is for low-end markets; It is incomprehensible - at least for my way of seeing - if this is also extended to more important wines, including pricewise. This is the category of “wines-style-variety”: one of the many segmentations that the wine trade has created, direct result of the varietal wines category, and that is of those glasses that make the grape the guiding reason. This rigid schematization of enclosing a style for each grape variety (the style, in actual fact, coincides with the vine) also requires each variety to have a (pre)determined nature, a (pre)determined organoleptic character and - this is also essential - even a well defined and (pre)determined cost. All this, however, goes against my (our?) Idea of wine which instead provides (and is crazy for) what we call “magic of the terroir”. To make this thought more immediate - founded and well highlighted in the articles and tastings that this publication dedicates to grape varieties, wines and their territories (the feature on the Colli di Luni and its most emblematic wine, the Vermentino on page 38 of the magazine, is no exception) - I want to give a few simple examples. Let’s focus starting on precisely the Vermentino grape in the aforementioned article. Vermentino is often classified in the group of semi-aromatic whites that are purely summery and carefree (such as the Bolgheri or Sardinian vermentino). It certainly can not be said that this simplification is completely wrong or without foundations; one can, however, affirm with certainty that it is a partial and incomplete representation. In fact, there are numerous bottles of Vermentino di Sardegna, Gallura, Colli di Luni, Riviera Ligure di Ponente (but also of the very Bolgheri) that are very tight for this cage. There are dozens, dozens and dozens of labels that showcase different wines, capable of introducing Vermentinos able to amaze for their character and their complexity but also, against all odds, for ability to become complex after a few years of bottle, or ability to mature that is. The same goes for the Nebbiolo: considered (and rightly so) the symbol of austere and serious wines, which is now equally at ease in its new role as a young and drinkable red wine. It’s impossible to enclose wines and grapes, result of the genius and the imagination of man as well as of the earth, in conceptually watertight containers.

– Gianni Fabrizio

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

2018 OCTOBER

NOVEMBER

27 ROMA - Italy

trebicchieri

01 SEOUL - Korea

30 TOKYO - Japan

trebicchieri

05 TAIPEI - Taiwan Top Italian Wines Roadshow

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

07 HONG KONG - China

trebicchieri HKTDC Special

12 SHANGHAI - China

trebicchieri

15 BEIJING - China Best of Italy 20 ST. PETERSBURG - Russia Top Italian Wines Roadshow 22 MOSCOW - Russia

trebicchieri

2019 JANUARY

APRIL

STOCKHOLM - Sweden trebicchieri

COPENHAGEN - Denmark Best of Italy

VERONA - Italy

trebicchieri VINITALY Special

DUBAI - UAE

Notte Italiana

21 MUNICH - Germany trebicchieri 23 BERLIN - Germany Best of Italy

MAY FEBRUARY

SINGAPORE - Singapore Top Italian Wines Roadshow ZURICH - Switzerland

Best of Italy

BORDEAUX - France

trebicchieri VINEXPO Special

07 MEXICO CITY - Mexico

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

11 LOS ANGELES - Usa

trebicchieri

CALGARY - Canada Best of Italy

13 SAN FRANCISCO - Usa

trebicchieri

TORONTO - Canada Best of Italy

19 NEW YORK - Usa

trebicchieri

MONTREAL - Canada Top Italian Wines Roadshow

21 CHICAGO - Usa

trebicchieri

JUNE MARCH 07 LONDON - U.K.

trebicchieri

16 DÃ&#x153;SSELDORF - Germany trebicchieri PROWEIN Special

WASHINGTON DC - USA Top Italian Wines Roadshow

BOSTON - USA Top Italian Wines Roadshow

NEWS

DON ALFONSO TORONTO. THE IACCARINO FAMILY LANDS IN CANADA After Macao and New Zealand, the Iaccarino family lands in Canada, where at the end of June the new restaurant opened in partnership with Nick Di Donato of Liberty Entertainment Group. Moreover, well beyond the ability to maintain high standards of excellence cuisine contributing to making the history of Italian dining, what’s striking today about the team held together by the passion of Livia and Alfonso Iaccarino is willingness to put in practice the philosophy of hospitality that has made Don Alfonso famous worldwide, and today renewed with Ernesto (in the kitchen) and Mario (for the hotel management aspect). So why not keep thinking big? Leading the Don Alfonso brigade in Toronto will be at least for the next two years young chef Daniele Corona from Fuorigrotta (Naples), along with Oliver Glowig, for whom he directed the kitchen of Poggio Le Volpi until his departure for Canada - under the supervision of Italian-Canadian executive chef Saverio Macrì. The positioning is that of a fine dining venue with an 8-course tasting menu (and a vegetarian version) and any combination with the classic or molecular cocktails of bartender Oliver Stern, or alternatively the à la carte menu, with

mezzanine reserved for aperitifs (with a dedicated snackmenu) and totally white dinner dining room with marble finish and Italian handicrafts. About 60 covers, with the debut menu ranging from eel gelato with sturgeon caviar, tagliatelle flavoured with rose hips, mint and egg yolk crumbled, bison fillet with rustic manitoba crust, mozzarella, tomato and salsa verde, Gragnano vermicelli with pickled mackerel, pine nuts and caramelized onion, ending with Neapolitan sfogliatella topped with a sour cherry. Don Alfonso Toronto – 19, Toronto Street – Toronto donalfonsotoronto.com

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

NEWS

GOURMET FOOD FOR THE END OF THE WORLD. JAPAN HAS YOU COVERED The Japanese have a single word–izameshi–for food for emergencies. But the added idea of Sugita Ace company–a manufacturer of building materials– was developing a line of tasty food for all palates respectful of an essential prerogative: a very long shelf life, for the benefit of unpredictable and/or destructive situations, with the thought association, in the specific case of Japan, immediately goes to frequent and violent earthquakes that can hit the country. So, how do you face the end of the world in the kitchen, provided you can keep your appetite? Distributing in supermarkets products that comply with guidelines for a balanced and varied diet, but also suitable for everyday habits, in singleserving portions ready to be consumed, which draw on recipes of the Japanese home tradition. The objective is encouraging consumers to familiarize with this kind of product, to demonstrate that even food for emergencies can be delicious, from chicken curry to Japanese stew to mention a few (there are 40 different types on the market). Without forgetting the food’s functionality: subjected to innovative production and preservation methods, Sugita Ace izameshi can be stored for up to 3 years. izameshi.com

POLOSUD. ITALIAN ARTISAN GELATO IN NEW YORK Summer is gelato time. With the added benefit of being spoiled for choice on a national territory that benefits from the mix between traditional craftsmanship and technological innovation. In addition to the great products of each area. But Italian gelato is also popular abroad, and there are still those who focus on a quality product self-proclaiming as ambassador of Made in Italy even thousands of kilometers away from the Bel Paese. In New York the answer is Polosud, a gelateria and Sicilian coffee shop that’s due to open soon in Little Italy. The project is of Palermo native confectioner Giacomo d’Alessandro, known in the United States with the curious name given to him by the Wall Street Journal: the cannoli scientist. Polosud is an artisan bakery workshop with a laboratory for the daily production, seasonal ingredients imported from Italy, milk of a selected farm in upstate New York. Twenty-one tastes in production, with some concessions to US habitual flavors, like “Americano” with banana and peanut butter. And the inevitable cannoli, made with sheep’s milk ricotta and a crispy waffle. Definitely a tasty address when visiting the Big Apple. Polosud – New York (USA) – 160 Mott Street 869, 9th avenue (Belsley Park) - +1(0)6464766172 polosudnyc.com

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

NEWS

USA. IMPORT OF STILL WINES SLOWS DOWN IN QUANTITY, BUT VALUE RISES BY 9.7%. ITALY STABLE IN VOLUMES WITH +11.3% IN VALUE. FRANCE CONTINUES TO RACE AHEAD

After a 2017 that, as we Minus sign in imports of still wine (except sparkling) from the United States. The first five months of 2018 closed with -6.8%, with an increase of 9.7% in value, essentially due to the widespread increase in prices and, considering European products, at the less fa-

vourable dollar-euro exchange rate. Above all others, purchases dropped from Australia (-31.6%) and Argentina (-23.2%), with corresponding decreases in value of 18.2% and 8%. Conjunction that for these two countries, according to the Italian wine and food institute, is explained by the decline in exports of bulk and with the constant affirmation of French wines, which are recovering positions lost in the last five years. The French recorded a +14.9% in volumes (becoming the third largest supplier) and a +24.6% in value.

In figures, the United States imported 3.88 million hectoliters of wine from January to June, for 1.9 billion dollars, compared to last year’s 4.17 million hectoliters and 1.75 billion dollars. In particular, purchases from Italy are stable in quantity (one million hectoliters, +0.6%) and grow by 11.3% in value (to 608 million dollars). According to the Iwfi, the Italian bubbles are doing well: there are 313,730 hectoliters of sparkling wines, worth 177.9 million dollars. The increases are considerable: +19.5% in quantity and +33.3% in value.

CONSORTIA. THE ROME DOC IS RELAUNCHED. PRESIDENT GALASSINI: "IN SEVEN YEARS WE HAVE INCREASED OUR PRODUCTION TENFOLD" The number 7 has always been particularly evocative for the city of Rome. It should no t be a surprise, therefore, that it took just 7 years to arrive also at the birth of the Consortium Doc Rome. It was 2011 when the denomination that bears the name of the city with just 35 hectares of vineyards was first baptized. Today we’re talking about 235 hectares for 87 members and a production of 500 thousand bottles. “I am proud to represent the Doc Roma and its consortium at national level” says new president Tullio Galassini at Tre Bicchieri, already leading the Associazione Produttori Vino Doc Roma. “Today we have increased production tenfold, overcoming the years of crisis and reaching a turnover of 10 million euros, without having to lower prices (today the gap is between 2.99 euros for basic versions and 18 euros for reserves; ed.) Thanks to the name

of strong international appeal it’s precisely in foreign markets that 80% of the product ends, and 50% of this goes to the Old Continent, but we are also working towards new markets, especially in the Asian direction. “Today what grinds out the highest numbers for production and turnover is the Red version of the Doc, so much so that we are reaching a million and a half bottles. The most substandard product, however, is the Rosso riserva, of which at the moment we produce only 200,000 bottles. Instead, there is a lot of work to be done on whites”.

CONSORTIUM IN FIGURES 87 associates, between wine-makers and bottlers 235 hectares 500,000 bottles 10 million euro turnover 7 versions: “bianco”(also in the sweet amabile version); “rosso” (also in the sweet amabile version); “rosso riserva”; “rosato”; “Romanella” spumante; “Malvasia del Lazio o Puntinata”; “Bellone”

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

WINE OF THE MONTH VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO CARATO ‘13 MONTENIDOLI Montenidoli - loc. Montenidoli - San Gimignano (SI) - www.montenidoli.com www.montenidoli.com - bottles 6500 - ex-cellar price: 20.00 Euro euros + taxes Elisabetta Fagiuoli is the queen of Vernaccia. The first wine she produced in San Gimignano was in 1971. The production philosophy favors native varieties, biodynamic farming, and safeguarding the environment. Don’t think twice and please uncork the recently released Vernaccia Carato 2013. It’s pure beauty. It displays vibrant and complex aromas with hints of fresh almonds and peaches alongside light, intriguing nuances of wood resin and a little spice. The palate is sumptuous, nicely blended, with sharp acidity, fresh and vigorous, and a lingering, flavoursome finish.

APPOINTMENTS. AUGUST 2-12, CALICI DI STELLE RETURNS. THE THEME OF THIS YEAR? “EYES TO HEAVEN”

Ready to raise “Eyes to Heaven”? This is the claim of the next edition of Calici di Stelle, the summer event of the Wine Tourism and Wine Cities Movement which, from 2 to 12 August, offers tastings, shows and star-gazings in the cellars and wine-growing centers of all Italy. In fact, once again this year

the partnership with the Italian Astrophile Union provides telescopes in particular areas set up, from which to admire the passage of the so-called tears of San Lorenzo (this year the maximum activity is expected in the night between 12 and 13 August). “Wine”, said president of Mtv Nicola D’Auria, “continues to be the driving force behind the beautiful evenings organized for years in the villages of Italy thanks to the work of the Movement. The collaboration able to renew between the City of Wine and Mtv is confirmed as an excellent

choice for the enhancement of the land and products of our area”. Many events: in Tuscany, 2-12 August will offer events in the themed cellars “Dancing under the stars”; Abruzzo that has chosen the Fortress of Civitella del Tronto as location for “Calici di Stelle” on August 8; and over 100 Italian public squares that will come alive with wine. The detailed program, which is constantly updated, can be viewed on the websites: www.movimentoturismovino.it and www.cittadelvino.it

Italian Wines 2018 2485 WINERIES 22000 WINES 436 TRE BICCHIERI WINES A basic, essential volume for professionals and winelovers available in bookshops* and at amazon.com *Italian Wines 2018 is available in USA, Canada, UK and Italy

www.gamberorosso.it

GAMBERO ROSSO ON THE ROAD London, Toronto and Vancouver connected through the Italian art of eating and eating

by Giuseppe Carrus and Lorenzo Ruggeri

STORIES

2. 1.

EVENTS. GAMBERO ROSSO BRINGS THE ITALIAN ART OF LIVING TO LONDON An exquisitely Italian evening in one of the most evocative areas of London. The Italian Art of Living event was hosted last Monday at Battersea Power Station, on the banks of the Thames, whose striking chimneys of the power plant were featured on the cover of Pink Floyd's Animal album. That was 1977. At the piano, this time, was Roberto Terenzi, with his jazz, paired with Ferrari bubbles and the tried and tested recipes of Francesco Mazzei in his latest restaurant: Fiume. Opening the event was a seminar conducted by Marco Sabellico and Matteo Lunelli, entirely dedicated to chardonnay, production protagonist of the Trentino winery. In the lineup also three vintages of Giulio Ferrari: the 2006, which is rich, powerful, with excellent perspective margins; the 2000, which is a more evolved, soft and spicy vintage; in closing, a stratospheric Gi-

ulio Ferrari Collection 1997, 18 years on the lees, savory, creamy, with a progression that is simply enchanting, graceful and very long. "The surprise of the evening? For me it was the PerlĂ¨ Zero, I had not tasted an Italian sparkling wine of such style and of such quality", commented the Master of Wine Anne Krebiehl. Taking part in the celebrations were over two hundred operators, sommeliers (many Italians at the helm of important restaurants in the City) and journalists, the party was peppered with music, bubbles and delights based on fregola, gnocchi, gourmet pizzas and lots more. "These are surely the most representative Italian bubbles in the UK", commented Master of wine Michael Edward. "I simply adore this wine", echoed Carla Capaldo. "The London market is rediscovering Italian bubbles. It is a demanding palate, and Prosecco is putting a breach in the otherwise tall wall, but there is so much space for the uniqueness of Italian bubbles. Our essential, alpine, mineral flavours, are much

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

On the top: 1. 2. 3. 4. A couple of pictures shot during the Ferrari event in London. 5. Francesco Mazzei (chef - Anima restaurant), Matteo Lunelli (president of Ferrari), Camilla Lunelli (Communication & PR Director of the Lunelli Group), Marco Sabellico (Gambero Rosso Vini d'Italia Senior Editor) and Roberto Terenzi (pianist) On the right: 7. Giuseppe Carrus (collaborator of Vini d'Italia), Gabriele Fason (Export Manager Viticoltore Ponte), Tanja Barattin (Prosecco DOC Consortium) 8. "White&Gold" - Custoza Tasting

GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR

appreciated. And all of the Trentodoc is growing", according to Matteo Lunelli. Just take a look at the numbers. In 2017, Italian bubbles, according to Istat data, grew overall by 8.9% in quantity in the United Kingdom (1.1 million liters) with an increase of 11.9% (409 million Euro). A bit more undulant are the numbers at the start of 2018: the first quarter shows a decline in volumes of 6.1% (20.2 million liters), but however recorded an increase in the collected values of 2% (75, 7 million Euro) compared to the January-March period of 2017. This shows how this market is mainly seeking quality. On the other hand, quality is also at centre stage of Italian restaurants in the city: as many as 16 venues reviewed in our Top Italian Restaurants guide. "In the past many Italian chefs here wanted to overdo it. For me, Italian cuisine is an ingredient, territory, regionality", says Francesco Mazzei, owner of three restaurants in London. "My success is simplicity. Keep it simple", he smiles.

TRE BICCHIERI GAMBERO ROSSO: VANCOUVER AND TORONTO. Here's how Gambero Rosso in Vancouver and Toronto went to present over 50 wineries, the great Italian wines awarded with Tre Bicchieri and - new this year - some preview labels recently put on the market. In Vancouver, before the grand tasting, two master classes were immediately sold out. The first on the Prosecco Doc was also repeated in Toronto, the second on Custoza. "The interest in sparkling wines in Canada grows yearly and with the seminar on Prosecco we want to let Canadian experts know the peculiarities of a product that has certain characteristics that depend on the area of production: Prosecco before the name of a wine is the name of a small country that gives rise to a Denomination, with precise criteria of sparkling wine production," according to Tanja Barattin of Prosecco DOC Consortium, who led the master classes alongside Giuseppe Carrus, collaborator of the Vini d'Italia guide. Prosecco continues its extraordinary sales

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

STORIES

11.

10. On the top: 9. Participants at the tasting 10 and 11. Giuseppe Carrus and David De Ranieri (Barbera Wine Manager)

roll, with a multiplicity of styles and types that can cover all consumption occasions. After Prosecco, also a large white wine from northern Italy, Custoza, known in Vancouver through the tasting of 8 different labels. A journey "over time" started with the 2016 vintage and finished with the vintage 2012. The title of the master class "From white to gold" really wanted to emphasize the potential of aging of the white produced near Lake Garda: a white of character, fresh and savory and above all able to challenge time. In Toronto there is also space for a masterclass dedicated to a great Piedmontese red: Barbera d'Asti, with its subzones, starting from Nizza, a name that has become Docg for years now: nine of the leading cellars, for a total of 17 labels in all, from Barbera d'Asti, to Nizza, also passing through some local labels obtained from Nebbiolo or RuchĂŠ grapes. "Beautiful overview of the territory of Asti and Monferrato" says David De Ranieri, export manager of Italian wine "thanks to which the wine trade in this country can appreciate the nuances of the different Italian denominations, true added value of our production".

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

AWARDED RESTAURANTS In addition to wine, in the two legs of the journey, space was also given to Italian food and quality Italian dining. During the tastings wines of the Sannio consortium were paired with food presented by Italian restaurateurs in Canada and combined with Calvisius caviar - rigorously made in Italy - present with a successful stand. As it happens in the different stages of the Gambero Rosso wine tour, awards were bestowed to the best quality Italian restaurants, according to the guide born last year Top Italian Restaurants (gamberorosso.it/ restaurants). Two special prizes were promoted by Contadi Castaldi, a Franciacorta winery that has always valued traditional Italian cuisine and above all pizza abroad. In Vancouver, in the presence of Alex Martyniak, director of the European Chamber of Commerce in Canada West, the award went to Via Tevere, which offers great Neapolitan pizza. In Toronto, the special award was presented to Terroni, a local also present in Los Angeles that's always focused on pizza and traditional Italian cuisine abroad.

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TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN BERLIN

BOCCA DI BACCO

ENOITECA IL CALICE

Friedrichstraße 167/168 Berlin - www.boccadibacco.de

Walter-Benjamin-Platz 4 - Berlin

Average Price: € 60

Average Price: €

Style and elegance distinguish this super central Italian restaurant in Mitte. It combines a business lounge where you can enjoy a drink while waiting for dinner or après-dinner, and a natural stone cellar with an enchanting atmosphere and a long wooden table often used for wine tastings or private dinners. The cuisine channels the Italian tradition updated to a more streamlined, modern style. Well-balanced flavours and well-combined textures, aromas and perfumes, be it giant prawns in lardo bacon on chickpeas cream or a rack of lamb breaded with herbs, Chianti sauce and potatoes au gratin. The truffle risotto is perfectly executed. The wine list displays more than 250 Italian labels and a centered by the glass choice. If you wanna go back in time there are many, many vintages on the big names such Sassicaia, Bruno Giacosa, Ornellaia, Gaja and so on. Plus, a huge selection of magnum and half bottles. Stellar, old school service.

www.enoiteca-il-calice.de 60

A go-to place in Charlottenburg for those who want to enjoy an authentic Italian experience in Berlin. Enoiteca Il Calice is at the same time a proper restaurant, a delicious wine bar and a wine shop. At every time of the day you will find something that will suit your desires. From carpaccio, soup and salad to cheese and salumi platters. At the apertivo you could even enjoy a nice selection of cicchetti (Venetian tapas) while savoring a crispy glass of Friulano. The cuisine offers many tasty dishes like scallop ravioli with saffron and lentil, classic spaghetti with clams or succulent meat dishes like dry aged beef with spanish chili and local potatoes. To accompany the food is a wellplanned wine list devoted to Italian labels and covering every philosophy, from traditional to modernist. There’s also a very intelligent choice of wines by the glass. And the prices are more than correct keeping in mind the average surchage in Germany. In nice weather, the impulse to order an entire bottle and linger at an outdoor table is hard to resist.

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

STANDARD SERIOUS PIZZA Templiner Str. 7 – Berlin www.standard-berlin.de Average Price: € 15 Truly serious work in this pizzeria opened in 2014 in Prenzlauer Berg. The gas oven is traditional and well established, providing perfect baking temperatures. The ingredients are carefully selected: San Marzano or Piennolo tomatoes, and homemade salumi. Fiordilatte cheeses are sourced at small producers, plus a very talented pizzaiuolo like Alessandro Leonardi from Campania: all contribute to soft dough as required by the true Neapolitan canons. The classic pizza margherita confirms this, as well as the Sicilian made with San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, anchovies and capers. We also enjoed the generous “Taste of Brandenburg” pizza, topped with potatoes, mozzarella cheese, wild boar sausage, pepper and rosemary. In short, the one baked here is the best pizza in Berlin. Pies are well paired with artisanal beers but above all with wine and a precious selection of natural wines hailing with a focus on Austrian labels. Minimal setting and attentive service.

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

“Berlin is poor, but sexy”, an evergreen epithet coined by Berlin’s ex-Mayor Klaus Wowereit. In regards to Italian dining, the most striking trend is Neapolitan style pizza, with a series of recent openings that really honour the Neapolitan baking art. There are equally solid restaurants, traditional taverns and very special eateries…

MALAFEMMENA

LAVANDERIA VECCHIA

Hauptstraße 85 – Berlin

Flaughfenstrasse 46 – Berlin

malafemmena.restaurant

lavanderiavecchia.wordpress.com

Average Price: € 15

Average Price: € 60

the

wonderful

Friedenau

SURGIVA TASTE&DESIGN AWARD

neighborhood of Berlin, with its

You have to book ahead of time

fine architectural examples of Art

to be seated at the tables divided

Nouveau, the logo of AVPN (Associazi-

by hung laundry, like in the al-

one Verace Pizza Napoletana) is an unex-

leys of Naples, in a rustic but refined

pected sight. Malafemmena prides itself

and clean environment. White tones

on making real Neapolitan pizza. Here,

conspire to create the atmosphere of a

Margherita is the ruling version, rolled

country house. The idea of repurposing

out by hand, soft and well-leavened. The

an old laundry service is certainly inter-

edge is high, as tradition requires, the

esting. We like the ambiance, which is in

size is right, and ingredients are uncom-

tune with the authentic, generous, al-

promisingly from Campania. The menu

ways new cuisine, something that’s hard

starts with the classic version, with buf-

to find in the city. Be sure to arrive with a

falo mozzarella and San Marzano toma-

big appetite. You can dine with a prix fixe

toes, and moves on to those with pien-

menu at 60 Euro (the offer is very con-

nolo tomatoes, sausage and greens. You

venient at lunch). Starters could include

can also order calzone filled with ricotta

carpaccio of fish and meat, tastybrus-

and ham, or fried pizza, a rare find in this

chetta, and then soups, pasta dishes, ri-

city. Burrata, arancini (fried rice balls) and

sotto and shrimps cooked with mediter-

eggplant Parmesan are on the menu as

ranean herbs and potato puree. Included

well. Quality is high and prices very rea-

in the price is also the wine, which, like

sonable.

the house extra virgin olive oil is from the Sabina area of Lazio. The wine list could use some improvement. Meals close with an espresso and a digestif, to be enjoyed, like the Italians do, at the counter.

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST

MURET LA BARBA Rosenthaler Str. 61 – Berlin muretlabarba.de/it/ Average Price: € 25 The place exudes Mitte’s style in a small and carefully designed Italian wine bar in Berlin. Over 200 bottles and approximately fifteen different Italian wine regions represented with interesting choices that pique our curiosity, independent wine makers and traditional wine making. Bottles feature unconventional Franciacortas such as the 1701, an irreverent Schiopettino of Friuli-native Petrussa, and unique bottles sourced in the only winery on the island Capri in Campania, Scala Fenicia. All bottles can be opened for service by the glass, as well as purchased for take out. In addition to cheese and cured meats boards, also antipastos featuring burrata or shishito peppers, classic prosciutto and melon; or pasta starters such as linguine with clams and bottarga.

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN BERLIN Top Italian PIZZERIA DEFINA Restaurants CANE ROSSO THE HEIGHTS ©

AL CONTADINO SOTTO LE STELLE Auguststraße 36 – Berlin www.alcontadino.eu Average Price: € 45 This restaurant, located in the heart of city in the picturesque alleys of Mitte, celebrates its 20 years of activity. Lucio Massaro offers authentic cuisine of the Lucania tradition, with a good creative vein. Thanks to a careful selection of ingredients, we find Slow Food Presidia and small denominations for rich and tasty dishes such as buffalo ricotta cannelloni and sautéed chard with pine nuts, raisins and peppers from Senise; or buffalo ricotta tortelli; pumpkin ravioli and typical pasta such as cavatelli. Entrees are opulent and rewarding, think veal fillet with artichoke chips. Adjacent there is a Mozzarella-Bar, same ownership.

ww w .gamberorosso.it

321 Roncesvalles Ave - Toronto www.pizzeriadefina.com

1835 N Shepherd Dr B – Houston www.canerosso.it

Average Price: $ 30

Average Price: $ 25

Defina displays a very warm and friend-

Jay Jerrier’s project is increasingly com-

ly atmosphere. Located in the colorful

plex and articulate. It all started with a

quarter of Roncesvalles Village, Defina

mobile oven in the streets of Dallas,

offers both Roman style pizza, fragrant

then the first restaurant - today in Dal-

and thin, and Neapolitan, fluffy with a

las there are 5 of them - which then

thicker crust. Gluten free and kamut

spread to two more locations in Austin

doughs are also available on request.

and Houston. The first pizzeria in town

Selecting prime quality ingredients, like

was opened in The Heights, directly fol-

San Marzano Tomatoes and proper moz-

lowed by the second opening in Mon-

zarella, Defina delivers solid and consis-

trose. We’re talking Neapolitan-style piz-

tent pies, well cooked in the wood fired

za, Cane Rosso belongs in fact to Verace

oven. Our favorites? We go for the Pom-

Neapolitan Pizza Association, with pies

pei (tomato, fior di late, olives, anchovies,

baked in a Stefano Ferrara ad hoc oven,

oregano and basil) and the classic Rapini

high temperature cooking, a drizzle of

Sausage match, topped also with fior di

raw olive oil and basil. Toppings include

latte and caramelized shallots: rich and

homemade pork sausages from Berk-

tasty. The second location is located on

shire, homemade mozzarella (but also

Dupont Street.

imported) Italian flours and tomatoes. Some pies cater to the American palate, with very intense toppings and flavours; we prefer the classic pizzas like Marinara or the Regina Margherita (with bufala).

www.gamberorosso.it/restaurants/

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST

THE GROUP OF YOUNG PEOPLE WHO ARE CHANGING THE GERMAN FOOD AND WINE WORLD

For a long time, Germany has neglected its food and wine heritage, imitating France and dreaming of Italy. But the new generation is changing direction on the trail of local and sustainable flavours. And without making any compromises. This is what we discovered in these two itineraries at both ends of the country: to the east, in Berlin, and to the west, on the border with Alsace, in the Rhineland-Palatinate.

Words by Lorenzo Ruggeri

STORIES

t all begins and ends on the Deutschen Weinstraße. Eightyfive kilometers of vineyards connect Schweigen-Rechtenbach, southern border with Alsace, and Bockenheim to the north. We are in the Pfalz, in Rhineland-Palatinate. The home of Riesling. The dry and solar Riesling, powerful and long-living. The first stop on the journey is Wachenheim, with the winemaker of Bürklin-Wolf, founded in 1597, 85 hectares of vines in biodynamic regimen since 2005: the largest biodynamic reality in Europe. At the helm is Nicola Libelli, from Piacenza, age 32, for the last five as the kellermeister at the winery born from the union of Bürklin and Wolf families. “Here the river does not affect the wines, we have many hours of light and the woods are essential to maintain the humidity. The goal is to make Pfalz the first entirely organic district”, says Nicola. Pfälzerwald is Germany’s largest forest, providing wood for the typical large wooden barrels found in the cellar. THE SURPRISE: RIESLING OF RHINELAND-PALATINATE “The riesling is a diva. It should be treated with white gloves, soft and long pressing, it canìt stand clarifications, has a difficult tannin, and does not tolerate small woods”. We taste from the barrel. In the glass are inebriating aromas, from freshly sliced lemon to ginger, juicy yellow fruit and more exotic notes. “Those looking for more agile and balsamic riesling will prefer Deidesheim, or Ruppertsberg and its clay soils for those looking for more fruity wines,” adds Nicola. We stop in front of the only barrel of Pechstein, the only cru from volcanic soils rich in basalt. Halfway through the mouth, the wine presents a monstrous change of pace: dark and infiltrating minerality. In short, pure energy. Next to it, more than a barrel, a relic: Kirchenstück (“the parcel of the church”), the mini-portion of the vineyard that already in the classification of 1828 wore the highest market price. It’s a slower, brighter wine, rich in flavour and embellishments. Here the soils mix basalt, sandstone and quartz. Ten minutes by car and we are under the vaulted ceilings of the bio bistro Hofgut Ruppertsberg, housed in a former

workshop of the 1800s. “The first few years were tough, we rebuilt a relationship with local suppliers, from the vegetables that arrive only a few hours from the harvest, to the meats, to the fish of the Rhine - comments chef Jean Philippe Aiguier - With the war our rich gastronomic culture was also destroyed. We started from scratch. Our chefs went to France to train and came back with all those techniques and products”. We enjoy excellent proportionately spicy snails, fresh water fish like pike, a rack of lamb. The wine list is very deep with contained mark-ups. We won’t give the Riesling Auslese of 1976, tasted blind, more than 15 years. Are there other whites in the world capable of travelling, with this same ease, over time?

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

The Wine Changes group is among the most beautiful surprises of our journey: a spontaneous association of 13 producers of the Pfälz, born in 2009. On stage a group of bad boys, friends before colleagues, who have studied together, who share a common idea and a common path. Their motto? One for all, all for wine. We then stop by the Fußer brothers, Martin and Georg, in Deidesheim. A few years behind but already among the area’s emerging names. Biodynamic viticulture, whole cluster pressing here too, spontaneous fermentation, aging in steel. The 2016 bottles have an edge, the Reiterpfad is their most famous cru, literally “the equestrian path,” the origin of the name is Roman. Particularly powerful and intense 

THE RHINELAND-PALATINATE AND BERLIN

The history of the Palatinate never told in Italy

VDP, THE WINE QUALITY PYRAMID The vineyard is the backbone of the German pyramid classification, VDP. The bricks at the base are the Gutswein, the corporate calling card; then it’s the Ortswein, with lower yields and greater territorial adherence; then come the Erste Lage, hailing from first-class precious vineyards, and finally the Grosse Lage, which in the dry version are called Grosse Gewachs, GG on the label. And this is where we’re dreaming.

4 1. Steffen Christmann with daughter Sophie in the Gimmeldingen cellar 2. Martin and Georg Fußer at work in the vineyards at Deidesheim 3. Nicola Libelli, oenologist, jumping the barrels in the cellar of Dr. Bürklin-Wolf 4. Hansjörg Rebholz with sons Valentin and Hans

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

What is happening in the Palatinate is a beautiful story. There are so many new talents, think of the Fußers, or names like Georg Meier. Not only on the Riesling, but also very interesting Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero. There are many strong young producers, very rock ‘n roll, aware, and who have solid training behind them. They are the children and grandchildren of winemakers who have always sold grapes to social cellars. These youngsters have taken the courage to set up their own business, finding their own way. I really hope that they acquire growing self-esteem and courage: the vineyards are there, plus all the conditions to increase this niche are present, to make it become a point of reference. The change of pace of the Palatinate, which is called the Tuscany of Germany for its Mediterranean climate, also includes farming peaches and oranges, for example, is quite recent. This is a very large area, with many cooperatives, this new generation has marked a gap, the symbol of a wine world that’s changing gears, and which tackles difficulties together, developing new paths. The perception in Italy? Unfortunately, the Pfalz is still little known. Let’s also say that Italy is a bit xenophobic in terms of wines. Already begrudgingly Italians accept that Germans can produce fine automobiles and win a football world cup, and usually forget the German centuriesold culture in terms of wines. Certainly in small circles of wine snobs, Riesling is a certainty, but we Germans know much more about the Moselle. Consider also that the wine area of Germany is as big as that of Sicily, wine is not even sufficient for domestic needs, yet export is essential, above all to increase the reputation of German wine. What is Riesling for me? It’s an immense challenge. There are Rieslings can be enjoyed without thinking and there are Rieslings that carry the world with them. I do not like the marked oil notes, I love Eiswein, Riesling is the only vine where I can actually stand the sugar residue. Plus it transmits the territory and its different characteristics so well. — Veronika Crecelius, food journalist for the magazine Weinwirtschaft

STORIES

PFALZ – ADDRESSES

WORMS

CANTINE

Wineries

Weingut Brand

RISTORANTI

 Weingut Martin u. Georg Fusser

OBRIGHEIM

FORNI

Niederkirchen bei Deidesheim Friedhofstrasse, 7 +49(0)6326259782 - mfg-wein.de

DIRMSTEIN

FRANKENTHAL

RAMSEN

Restaurant Intense

FREINSHEIM CARLSBERG

 Weingut A. Christmann

Neustadt an der Weinstrasse Peter-Koch-Strasse, 43 +49(0)632166039 - weingut-christmann.de  Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf

MANNHEIM

Weingut Margarethenhof

BAD DÜRKHEIM

Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf

Weingut Martin u. Georg Fußer

FRANKENSTEIN

Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan

Weingut Ernst Weisbrodt

Hofgut Ruppertsberg

Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl

LAMBRECHT

Weingut A. Christmann NEUSTADT AN DER WEINSTRAßE

Wachenheim an der Weinstrasse Ringstrasse, 4 +49(0)632295330 - buerklin-wolf.de  Weingut Ernst Weisbrodt

Niederkirchen bei Deidesheim Saarstrasse, 3 +49(0)63268836 - weingut-weisbrodt.de  Ökonomierat Rebholz

Siebeldingen Weinstrasse, 54 +49(0)63453439 oekonomierat-rebholz.com  Weingut Brand

Die Brotpuristen Ökonomierat Rebholz

SPIRA

Weingut Meier

 Weingut Margarethenhof SCHWEGENHEIM

Weinstube Brand FILISBURGO BORNHEIM

Bockenheim an der Weinstrasse Weinstrasse, 7 weingut-brand.com - petnat.de

GERMERSHEIM

LANDAU IN DER PFALZ

Forst an der Weinstrasse Franz Lucas Wiesenweg, 4 +49(0)63268302 - margarethenhof-forst.de  Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan

Deidesheim Kirchgasse, 10 +49(0)63266006 - bassermann-jordan.de  Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl

in a profile of wild herbs. The Parardiesgarten is a little gem: “It’s that vineyard up there in the upper part of the woods, and there’s always a very fresh wind blowing through it”, says Georg. In the glass a regenerating burst of anise and juniper, the mouth is, to say the least, electrifying. “Pinot Noir is the next big thing. We have planted French clones, first they were German. It’s a very long way,” smiles Martin Fußer. Philippe Weisbrodt also focused on Pinot Noir: we turn the corner and find him bottling it in the cellar. Since 2009 he has converted everything to biodynamic farming. His Riesling Mäushöhle (“the mouse cave”) has a scent of wild mint that’s addictive and very fresh. “It’s a mystery from a technical point of view, of course in

these areas, mint grows wild everywhere”. Of the same cru, the Pinot Noir is more than a promise. We pair it with succulent Pfälzer saumagen, pork belly cooked in RhinelandPalatinate fashion, the favorite dish of former Chancellor Kohl. Then we reach the Christammn winery, in Neustadt. “The capital of our wine is our soils, if we destroy them, what is left of them?”, replies Sophie Christamn, eighth generation. The estate style is increasingly essential and precise, since 2012 we decided to anticipate the harvest to avoid botrytis. Among the tastings, the Riesling Paradiesgarten 2016 stands out, a phenomenon of expressive purity, and the Olberg, austere and very salty, a stamp that we find 

Deidesheim Weinstrasse, 18 +49(0)632696500 - von-buhl.de

Restaurants  Restaurant Intense

Kallstadt Weinstrasse, 80 +49(0)63229591150 - restaurant-inten.se  Hofgut Ruppertsberg

Ruppertsberg Obergasse, 2 +49(0)6326982097 - dashofgut.com  Weinstube Brand

Frankweiler Weinstrasse, 19 +49(0)6345959490

Backerei  Die Brotpuristen

Speyer Bahnhofstrasse, 51 +491774702094 - diebrotpuristen.de GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

THE RHINELAND-PALATINATE AND BERLIN

in Pinot Noir, Sophie’s favourite. Back on the Weinstraße we descend to the south. Rebholz wines show off a savory complexity that’s out of the ordinary. “In the skin of the riesling there is a very important mineral component, potassium, and many other elements. We put the bunches through the auger and leave in contact for 24 hours, then add indigenous yeasts, in steel and long stay on the fine lees”, explains Hans. His son Valentin has trained under Elisabetta Foradori and is back with the desire to age in amphorae. We taste the first tests, which are already at incredible levels. The flagship of the range? Kastanienbusch, “the chestnut tree”. Headed back to Frankfurt, we stop at Kallstadt. Benjamin Peifer is the enfant  5. Views of the legendary cru Kirchenstück in Forst. The overall extension is of a mere 3.6 hectares, the most expensive parcel in Pfalz 5

PALATINATE. THE NEW RIESLING GENERATION

NICOLA LIBELLI 32 year old, winemaker, Trained at Piacenza wine school, then, experience in California. At the age of 27, he became Dr. Bürklin-Wolf’s kellermeister. Safe to say the future is in young people’s hands!

SOPHIE CHRISTMANN She graduated in viticulture and oenology at the University of Geisenheim. She also worked in Bordeaux and in Australia, as the eighth generation of Christmann winery. Firm believer in the Pinot Noir of Pfalz.

HANS E VALENTIN REBHOLZ Both boast important experience at historic Donnhoff and Elisabetta Foradori winery where their love for amphorae was born. The first tests with Riesling are already exciting.

GEORG E MARTIN FUẞER The Fußer brothers trained at Gesenheim University. Convinced of the potential of the Deidesheim grapes, they set up their own business, valuing the grapes that their parents sold. Rising stars.

PHILIPP WEISBRODT 33 years old, the fourth generation of producers in the family. Studied at the Geisenheim wine school, and trained in Tuscany and then in Australia. The most balsamic parcel of Pfalz is his: Deidesheimer Mäushöhle.

TRILLIAN YVONNE LIBELLI JEAN-PHILIPPE AIGUIER Yvonne, 34, is making a definite Chef at Hofgut Ruppersterberg change of pace at the Margaretherestaurant. Great connoisseur of nof family winery, Weiesenweg. local products, his bistro is the only Her Forst Pechstein is a gem. She organic one in the area. He loves studied at Gesenheim and met Riesling in a deep way, so much as her husband in California: Nicola to order custom selections from GAMBERO ROSSO 25 local JULY-AUGUST 2018 Libelli. producers.

BENJAMIN PEIFER 31, chef of Intense restaurant in Kallastadt. He started as a baker, then gained experience at Urgestein and Hofgut Ruppertsberg. Signature cuisine: courageous, intense and emotional. He loves Riesling of Pfalz which he also pays tribute to in the kitchen..

STORIES

prodige of area’s best chefs. Now at 31, he first started as a baker. In 2017, Intense opened, the first Michelin star arrived only a few months later. The tasting menu is made of small tastings, shaped on the concept of Japanese omakase, a few ingredients per dish and lots of character. Spiciness is the leit motif, but perfectly dosed, the succession of dishes in the tasting is perfect, with ups and downs that work very well; including the perfect cooking point of the oxtail. Ingredients? “The only one whose brother I’m not friends with is the Wagyu Beef producer”, shrugs Benjamin, underlining that everything is local and all the suppliers know each other. In the dining room his partner, Bettina, is well-versed in the matter of wine. At the end of the meal, we taste an infusion of a locally harvested mint: simply prodigious. The long-lasting flavour stays with us even when the Weinstraße is already far behind us. NEW WAVE IN BERLIN The second stop on our journey is Berlin, a city in a veritable state of grace on the food and wine front. Much less poor (only in 2017 rents have gone up by 20%: the real estate market literally gone crazy), but still very sexy, quoting the famous definition of former mayor Klaus Wowereit. The owners of Cordobar are Austrian. The brot & butter alone is worth the visit: dark bread, crispy crust, airy and fragrant crumb, with a sour note that recalls the sweetness of butter. In place of the wine list is an encyclopedia. A walk to the nearby Hackesche Markt, with its restored courtyards and a graffiti route, and we head to the infamous Checkpoint Charlie. But we’re not here for the historic roadblock that divided two sides of the world, but rather for the brave cuisine of Nobelhart & Schmutzig. Literally, noble and dirty. A simple platform indicates the entrance, to enter, clients ring the bell and wait. In the local owned by Billy Wagner and Michael Schafer only regional ingredients are used; low lights, a large counter embraces the open kitchen and an old gramophone. Unique tasting menu, for each plate the supplier is indicated; The wine list of very small producers

PFALZ. 11 TOP QUALITY/PRICE WINES FOR 5 DENOMINATIONS

1 2

3 4 5

Grosses Gewächs • Riesling Kastanienbusch 2016 Rebholz • Riesling Pechstein 2016 Von Bassermann-Jordan Erste Lage • Riesling Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten 2016 Christmann • Riesling Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten 2016 Fußer Ortsweine • Riesling Deidesheimer 2017 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf • Riesling Gimmeldingen 2017 Christmann Gutswein • Riesling 2017 Rebholz Extra • Müller Thurgau 2016 Brand Bros (Weingut Brand) • Von Buhl Sekt Reserve Brut Reichsrat Von Buhl • Riesling Forster Pechstein 2016 Margarethenhof • Riesling Deidesheimer Mäushöhle 2016 Weisbrodt

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

THE RHINELAND-PALATINATE AND BERLIN

Berlin Food Stories

6. Josita Hartanto at work in the vegan restaurnat Lucky Leek in Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin 7. Andreas Rieger in his restaurant Einsunternull in Mitte, Berlin 8. “Red Prayers,” specialtty of chef Benjamin Peifer in the restaurnat Intense in Kallsdadt 9. Micha Schäfer of restaurnat Nobelhart & Schmutzig in Berlin 10. Yeast, fennel, Jerusalem artichoke, dish by chef Micha Schäfer 10

working in a sustainable way is sensational and well-written. The beginning is of a character: beech water. “In Berlin, beech trees are everywhere, do you know the saying, ‘do not see trees in the forests’?” Billy argues. The taste is very delicate, slightly aromatic. Exceptional egg and mustard, served with raw potatoes cut very thin and the small brewery IPA enhances the bitter and spicy. The dessert is as unattractive as it is reassuring in taste: quark (typical soft cheese with cow’s milk) with plum compote. “We wanted to play on a traditional country course, but in Germany the cooking of the oma (grandma, ed) is not as cool as in Italy - Billy smiles - We propose a new identity of Berlin and Germany. We are much more than Doner and currywurst”.

The following morning, we meet in Boxhagener Platz, where on Sundays there’s a the second-hand market, we climb a long piece of Wall along the East Side Gallery, cross the Spree and we are in Kreuzberg, the Turkish quarter. The Markthalle Neun (covered market now declared a historical monument) is the meeting place for Berlin foodies. Bread is sacred material around here, with an astounding number of backerei; among local shops there’s also Alfredo Sironi’s laboratory, Milanese baker present on many restaurant tables in the city. All around are wine bars, pasta laboratories and shelves packed with local cheeses and cured meats: this is the thermometer of a new sensibility. Still in Kreuzberg, but 

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

No other European city has grown on a food level like Berlin has. It’s true, the starting point was low: only 10 years ago there was very little here, but the explosion, especially in the last 3-4 years, has been phenomenal. Since 2008, half a million people have arrived in Berlin, especially from Italy and Spain: they have increased the demand that is reflected in many quality openings. Let me be clear, on a national scale Berlin is definitely ahead of cities like Cologne or Munich. The trend? The first is the search for local ingredients: I think of restaurants like Nobelhart & Schmutzig and Einsunternull. It’s not easy at all to offer haute cuisine only with local products, but they are doing an extraordinary job with the suppliers because they’re reinventing the rules of production starting from quality, they work closely with farmers, following them in everything. The other trend is contamination, with lots of fusion: from Asian to New British cuisine. St. Bart is a great example of the Berlin melting pot: Australian chef, German cooking team, many expats. They cook great dishes in a very casual setting. I love that place. My average day? Let’s start with the breakfast culture which is a very serious thing in Berlin. Engelberg, in Pranzlauer Berg, is a perfect classic address, few things on offer and all of them good. For lunch, I choose Lebensmittel in Mitte, a solid, authentic and very season-conscious cuisine, typical of Southern Germany. Otherwise Michelberger Hotel in Friedrichsain offers an incredible lunch menu. For dinner? The top for me is Ernst, Canadian chef Dylan Watson-Brawn (age 24) offers a tasting journey of 30 minisamples, with German products. Only 12 seats: intensity and extraordinary purity of flavors. Asian cuisine? My Vietnamese is Madam Ngo, the pho soups are outstanding, while Kin Dee is an innovative Thai destination. In the kitchen is Dalad Khambu, a Thai girl born in New York. You will have fun. — Per Meurling, food journalist, author at berlinfoodstories.com

STORIES

BERLIN. ADDRESSES Ernst

Mrs Robinson's

PRENZLAUER BERG

WEDDING

 Nobelhart & Schmutzig

Friedrichstrasse, 218 +49(0)30 25940610 nobelhartundschmutzig.com

 Lucky Leek

Standard Serious Pizza Cocolo Ramen

Einsunternull

Kollwitzstrasse, 54 +49(0)30 66408710 lucky-leek.com

Lucky Leek

Lebensmittel in Mitte

ALEXANDER PLATZ

MITTE

 Einsunternull

VOLKSPARK FRIEDRICHSHAIN

 St. Bart

Cordobar

FRIEDRICHSHAIN

Nudelhart & Schmutzig TIERGARTEN POSTDAMER PLATZ

Hotel Michelberger CPC

Markthalle Neun

EAST SIDE GALLERY

Ora Kin Dee

FRD.-KRZ.

Cocolo Ramen X-berg

 Cordobar

Grosse Hamburger Str, 32 +49(0)3027581215 cordobar.net Pappelallee, 29 +49(0)15205188946 mrsrobinsons.de  Standard Serious Pizza

Alfredo Sironi

Templiner Str, 7 +49(0)3048625614 standard-berlin.de

Jaja

 Cocolo Ramen

St. Bart The Velvet Bar VOLKSPARK HASENHEIDE

NEUKÖLLN headed towards Neukölln, we are charmed by the atmosphere at St. Bart gastropub opened last summer, where we find many small producers sold by the glass (from magnum bottles). On the plate little nonesense and a lot of substance. At Einsunternull, or rather ‘one below zero’ opened in 2015, dinner is served underground. We are fascinated by the lack of compromise of chef Andreas Rieger. Only Brandenburg ingredients enter his kitchen. He insists on fermentations, with dishes of strong scenic impact, and bitter nuances; he applies techniques and sensibility from all over the world on local ingredients “90% of Michelin star-endowed restaurants in Germany do French or fusion cuisine. No more than 20/30 restaurants try to work with what they have lo-

Graefestrasse, 71 +49(0)3040751175 stbartpub.com

 Mrs Robinson’s

KREUZBERG

SCHÖNEBERG

Hannoversche Str, 1 +49(0)3027577810 restaurant-einsunternull.de

Gipsstrasse, 3 +49(0)1723047584 kuchi.de/restaurant/cocolo-ramen/  Ora

Oranienpl., 14 ora-berlin.de

cally. We have to study, talk with suppliers, enter their production choices. We have so many historical ingredients, that we do not even know, think buckwheat. All this baggage will be part of our future”. Among the most successful dishes is the beef heart served on grains and wild herbs. Heatland is a very beautiful dish infused with buckwheat, toasted buckwheat, fermented juniper, fermented celeriac, leaves us dumbfounded. “It is precisely the feeling that I wanted to arouse, this is a land that lends few points of reference”. Our last visit is in the Prenzlauer Berg district, the living room of Berlin. Here it’s easier to find a pho bo or a pad Thai than currywurst. The character is exquisitely international: many locals have an English menu. The best pizza in Berlin is here: Standard. Thanks to 

 The Velvet Bar

Ganghoferstrasse, 1 velvet-bar-berlin.de  Jaja

Weichselstrasse, 7 +49(0)3052666911 jajaberlin.com  Hotel Michelberger

Warschauer Str, 39 +49(0)3029778590 michelbergerhotel.com  Ernst

Gerichtstrasse, 54 ernstberlin.de  Markthalle Neun

Eisenbahnstrasse, 42 +49(0)3061073473 markthalleneun.de  Kin Dee

Lutzowstrasse, 81 kindeeberlin.com  Lebensmittel in Mitte GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

Rochstrasse 2 +49 30 27596130

THE RHINELAND-PALATINATE AND BERLIN

the arrival of the pizza chef from the Campania region, Alessandro Leonardi. But Berlin is also the European capital of vegetarian and vegan cuisine. Meet Josita Hartanto, chef of Lucky Leek, Indonesian mother and German father. Her cuisine is colorful and tasty, instinctive. “When we first opened our vegan place, they were only a handful, today there are more than 60 in Berlin. My goal is to change the attitude of skeptics... We live in an overcrowded planet and grow grains to feed the animals we eat. Does it not make more sense to shorten the supply chain?”.

11. “Heatland”, dish by chef Andreas Riegers. Game of textures, essences and fermentations with buckwheat, celeriac, pine nuts and spruce buds info www.germany.travel

8 NEW FACES OF DINING IN BERLIN

BILLY WAGNER Born in 1981. Owner, host and sommelier of Nobelhart & Schmutzig. Trained at the Weinbar Rutz in Berlin, his wine list is wonderful. From the intro: ‘There are things we do not understand, like Cabernet Sauvignon in Sicily’.

MICHAEL SCHÄFER 30 years old. Born in Switzerland, chef and co-owner of Nobelhart & Schmutzig. He matured at Villa Merton in Frankfurt. Regional cuisine of great taste, creative cleanliness, with clear and clean contrasts: lightness, flair and flavour.

ANDREAS RIEGER Chef of the Eisunternull restaurant in Mitte, opened in 2015. He was a sous chef for two other excellent restaurants in the city: Horvàth and Reinstoff. Attentive study and research on local products and fermentation: his cuisine is ethical, radical and overwhelming.

DYLAN WATSON-BRAWN 24 years old, chef at Ernst restaurant opened in 2017 in the working district of Wedding. 12 place settings for a total gastronomic experience lasting 3-4 hours. Born in Vancouver, he owes his sensitivity in the kitchen to experiences in Japan. .

LEE THOMPSON Australian chef of St. Bart gastropub, recently opened in Kreuzberg. Cuisine that does not focus on presentation rather at the essence of flavours. He previously worked at Italian restaurant Mädchenitaliener in Berlin.

JOSITA HARTANTO DALAD KAMBHU 37 year old chef at Lucky Leek in Chef at Kin Dee (literally ‘eat well’), Prenzlauer Berg. She is among Thai restaurant in Charlottenburg. the best-known faces in Europe’s Born in Bangkok, she lived in the vegan capital, cher reative cuisine United States before Berlin. Selfnever repeats itself. She was previtaught. Creative tasting menu, ously head chef of La Mano Verde, beautiful for eyes and palate. GAMBERO ROSSO 29 JULY-AUGUST 2018 just steps away from Lucky Leek.

ALESSANDRO LEONARDI Born in 1981, pizza chef at Standard, in Prenzlauer Berg. Two passions: tattoos and Neapolitan pizza. Excellent ingredients, long leavening and different gourmet variations that change every month. Super pizza.

PRIMITIVO AND MURGIA TARANTINA WOMEN IN WINE DRAW A NEW TOURISM ROUTE IN PUGLIA There is an open and crystal-clear sea, there are charming inland villages dug into the rock or glued to impressive ravines. A widespread heritage of art, culture, archaeology intertwined with agriculture that has always given good wine and good food. The Murgia Tarantina is still far from mass tourism routes. But its moment has arrived: this part of Ionian Puglia makes its way ahead with an essentially culinary signature. Protagonists of this are the Donne del Primitivo.

Words by Francesca Ciancio â&#x20AC;&#x201C; photos by Pietro Amendolara

STORIES

native grape and a wine are the flagbearers of this growth: Primitivo di Manduria, which, “nemo profeta in patria” as a prophet in its own homeland, has begun collecting more successes abroad than in Italy. Here the wine was still hindered by the idea of it being a sur-matured wine, not always clean on the olfactory level, not very fresh, too alcoholic. An “old” wine from the South, to quote commonplace. Then ten years ago the trend changed: Primitivo, between Nero di Troia and Negroamaro, was defined as the most easily recognizable wine grape of the Puglia region. And the Tarantino - with Manduria in the lead, as the doorway to Salento - conquered the status of wine territory. The food and wine circuit followed suit accordingly, with an increasingly accurate (and even sophisticated) reception and a cuisine stripped of an earlier excessively rustic feel. It is therefore a place that surprises. Starting from Taranto, which has suffered for decades the presence of the Ilva steelworks factories. The city’s destiny is still wavering because to this day unclear whether or not there is an alternative to the steel industry in the City of the two seas, aka Taranto. The future of the industrial complex has yet to be decided. What if the solution - or one of them - was in the pride of a past where everything had its own coherence and beauty, at least until the slaughter of industrialization? A visit to Marta (the National Archaeological Museum) could offer different ideas. A re-installation completed in 2016 has further highlighted that this is one of the most important museums in Europe. The ancient Taras, a proud city and not by chance of Spartan origin, was among the most flourishing centers of Magna Graecia. In the museum rooms the theme of wine is always present with the splendid 5th century BC vases dedicated to the symposium. The kraters (large vessels) dedicated to Dionysus (god born from the leg of Zeus) tell of the practices of spicing the wine, of how this should be drunk, of the game of κότταβος, which consisted in hitting a target with the wine left in the cups. The prize was a pastry or the kiss of a young boy (pederasty was not a crime then). The women represented in the artwork were only dancers or musicians because they were not allowed to participate in the symposia as protagonists. That of today’s tarantine women is a whole different story. Be they by birth or adoption, the growth path linked to Primitivo has been carved out an important and multifaceted space thanks to women. We have met several. This piece on Puglia is told through their eyes and their commitment.

PRIMITIVO. THE RED AT HOME IN THE MURGIE The red grape variety, found its ideal habitat in two Apulian areas: in the red soils of the Taranto province - with the name Primitivo di Manduria and the DOCG Primitivo di Manduria Dolce - and between the hills of Gioia del Colle and the Bari murgia. The area planted with Primitivo in Puglia is around 11 thousand hectares. In the two most suitable areas, several historical vineyards survive, cultivated with the traditional alberello system. The variety gets its name from the early ripening: from the Latin “primativus” and from the ancient Italian “primaticcio”. In fact, all its phenological phases (from flowering to color change) are precocious. In Manduria, in particular, this vine arrived in 1881, thanks to some cuttings brought in dowry by Gioia del Colle by Countess Sabini of Altamura, married to the nobleman Tommaso Schiavoni Tafuri. The cousin of the latter, Menotti Schiavoni, started the cultivation of Primitivo on the dunes of Campomarino, a coastal town a few kilometers from Manduria. The first label in fact bears the date 1891 and bears the name “Campo Marino”. On the contrary, there’s recent discovery of the existence of a very close kinship (proven by a substantial genetic identity) between Primitivo, Zinfandel and Crljenak Kastelanskj (or Plavina), a very rare vine left in few specimens on the coast and on some Dalmatian islands. The variety is also a parent of Plavac Mali, with which it shares some genomes.

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

PRIMITIVO AND MURGIA TARANTINO

THE 3 BICCHIERI 2018 AWARDS BY GAMBERO ROSSO

Manduria  Primitivo di Manduria Sinfarosa Zinfandel ’15

Felline – Manduria (TA)

 Primitivo di Manduria Raccontami ’15

Vespa Vignaioli – Manduria (TA)

Gioia del Colle  Gioia del Colle Primitivo Senatore ’11 – Coppi

Turi (BA) - www.vinicoppi.it  Gioia del Colle Primitivo Ris. ’14 –

Cantine Tre Pini – Cassano delle Murge (BA) www.cantinetrepini.com  Gioia del Colle Primitivo Muro Sant’Angelo

Contrada Barbatto ’14 – Tenute Chiaromonte Acquaviva delle Fonti (BA) www.enutechiaromonte.com  Gioia del Colle Primitivo Marpione Ris. ’13

Tenuta Viglione Santeramo in Colle (BA) – www.tenutaviglione.it  Gioia del Colle Primitivo 17 Vign. Montevella ’14

Polvanera Gioia del Colle (BA) – www.cantinepolvanera.it  Primitivo ’15 – Carvinea

Carovigno (BR) – www.carvinea.com

Anna is a woman of great temperament, who works - but practically lives - with hundreds of men of all ages. She is in charge of public relations, corporate communication and organization of events for the Wines Producers of Manduria, launched in 1932, and whose number of members is 400. A vast “family” of which this passionate and jovial woman pulls the strings. “I was already 40 years old when I left Rome to return home to Manduria and devote myself to this reality that for us locals is a rock-solid certainty. And in the cellar, we have a real testimony of this attachment and of this pride, the Museum of Civilization of Primitivo Wine”. This is not yet another dusty exhibition area dedicated to peasant culture, rather a detailed reconstruction of daily life and work in Manduria between the late 19th and first half of the 20th century. There is wine, but also wool manufacture, the importance of ceramic decoration, the centrality of olive oil, all reconstructed in the cooperative’s old underground cement tanks. “It’s a space that’s never had an inauguration - explains Anna - because of how dynamic and growing it is, exactly like the cooperative”. It counts on 1,000 hectares of vineyards and therefore with a rather low average per farmer property: “We are demonstrating - underlines Gennari - that even a southern Italian cooperative can follow step by step the work of its members, PRODUTTORI who can concentrate on small plots and produce high quality”. VINI DI MANDURIA

ANNA GENNARI

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

LO SGUARDO DEL FOTOGRAFO Dalle pianure e colline sinuose immerse nel profondo verde definite “Murge”, alle “gravine“; dal mare con i suoi silenzi assordanti e il suo fascino ammaliante, all’entroterra dai colori che cambiano repentinamente nelle varie stagioni. Nelle città di mare il paesaggio comprende il verde degli ulivi e l’azzurro del cielo, che confonde il suo orizzonte con il mare. – Pietro Amendolara

STORIES

THE “UNDULANT VINEYARD” OF AMASTUOLA These are “waves of time that have crossed this place since ancient times”, according to the Spanish architectlandscaper Fernando Caruncho who gave shape and movement to the vineyard-garden of the Amastuola di Crispiano winery: parallel rows three kilometers long that create the special vineyardgarden of over 100 hectares, interspersed with 1,500 olive trees. An aesthetic and geometric place, but also functional to the organic regimen adopted by the Montanaro family: the waves in fact follow the curves of the land making green manure and harvest easier.la raccolta.

For the Pugliese Movement, she is the first woman president. Maria Teresa lives and works in the Primitivo area: she does not come from a family of wine producers, but has married one, Cosimo Varvaglione, who has been linked to the land and grapes for four generations. Her maiden name is Basile, but Maria Teresa is so invested in the company that has made the surnames interchangeable. In fact it’s with her that the Varvaglione brand (leader in sales of bulk wine in Puglia until the beginning of the 90s) decided to start bottling, conquering yet another record: the company today is the first in the region in terms of turnover and production. “Clearly it was an agreed decision - the President recalls - but Cosimo made the idea his own knowing that he could count on me, so I started traveling around the world as head of foreign markets while raising three small children. Now it’s time to get the kids to work and leave them the necessary space”. The new generation is in fact Marzia, Angelo and Francesca: the first two involved in curating the commercial and communication aspects of the brand, while the latter is finishing her viticulture and oenology studies. “I have no problem telling her - Maria Teresa concludes - that if necessary (and often) I can also step in as a Jack of all trades! And then my new job offers the opportunity to promote this part of Apulia tarantina: with its marine coasts proudly marked by so many cleanest ocean Blue Flags, between PRESIDENT MOVIMENTO dunes and coves: Wine also helps for this”.. TURISMO DEL VINO PUGLIA

MARIA TERESA VARVAGLIONE

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

PRIMITIVO AND MURGIA TARANTINO

Sisters Simona and Marika are two forty-year-olds working full-time in food and wine, divided as they are between the Trullo di Pezza wine company in Torricella, and the Vinilia Resort in Manduria. Lacaita is their surname and father Pietro owns an important name in the world of metalworking. The dream, however, for the whole family, has always been to take care of the soil. Many years of producing bulk wine and then the “feminine” decision not to sell to others, but rather study and produce their own labels. First output was in 2012. “We are really young - smiles Simona - and we’re aware that there was a world already saturated with wineries out there: for this reason, our goal was to complete our offer with gastronomy and hospitality”. Therefore in the masseria in Torricella the tastings count as much as that of the pactual wine production, the local Taranto and Salento cuisine always comes paired with the tastings. The gourmet tables are at the Casamatta restaurant, locted within the Lacaita family resort, a wine resort to be exact, because Vinilia, already from the name, is a well-rounded historical experience in the food and wine world of Lacaita, but also animated by eclecticism that clears away the at times suffocating dust of the past, in very typical traditional contexts: a path shared by the talented resident chef Pietro Penna, with experiences in the Four Seasons in Italy and abroad and in Tuscany at Valeria Piccini. The chef knows he can draw on an extraordinary basket of ingredients, of which he is not subjected to, on the contrary: he simply looks at them, works them, transforms them from another angle, with an eye to modernity and above all trying to respect TRULLO DI PEZZA AND VINILIA RESORT and enhance their nutritional properties.

SIMONA LACAITA

True Tarantina, or rather, “Spartan” as she likes to define herself, that is “tough” and tenacious, Simona Natale is the female part of Es, the Primitivo di Manduria created by her husband Gianfranco Fino which, for several years, was the most awarded wine in Italy, and now out of the Doc for a few years for visions opposed to the disciplinary. With a life before wine, Simona was a lawyer, and today she is the voice and face of the Manduria company. There is no restaurant she doesn’t know, no chef who she doesn’t greet, no wine territory she doesn’t respect. “But there is no better place than home - she says proudly - from the lighthouse plateau in Taranto the blue sea’s colour is unreal, but you’re also reminded of the suffering from the steel monoculture, which has economically and socially isolated the city born for trade and socialization, a contradiction”. Now the couple is focused on the cellar due to open in a year. “We started in 2004 with just over one hectare, but with a specific goal: to make only one wine, Primitivo di Manduria from alberello-system plants. After almost twenty years we are still here. We added the Jo Negroamaro label, but experimentation continues on the Manduriese grape which has given us the Se label, Primitivo from a young vineyard born from a mass selection of old vines, 12 thousand plants per hectare and the same rootstocks used at Romanée Conti. We now own 15 hectares of vineyard, but it’s so difficult to convince the old owners to sell the plants, those rented belong to peasants who are over ninety years old and who don’t want to give up, they are messapica naCANTINA tives, another tough civilization!”. GIANFRANCO FINO

SIMONA NATALE

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

STORIES

THE BEST BEACHES

Taranto

During the summer the Amat service (amat.taranto.it) offers a shuttle boat service to Isola di San Pietro which, along with Isola di San Paolo, is part of the small arcipelago of Isole Cheradi. Further south east is Baia di Saturo and Baia di Pirrone

East of Taranto along the coast

Marina di Leporano; a small bay baia with a quaint fisherman wharf Marina di Pulsano: white sandy beaches alternating with dark rocks Marina di Lizzano: both beaches are long enclosed in a series of natural dunes now part of UNESCO natural heritage sites.

Parco delle Dune di Campomarino

Rich in Mediterranean shrub and set up with raised wooden walkways - to preserve the dune system below - that lead directly to the sea, this site of community interest has 40 hectares of dunes many of which over 12 meters tall.

If reading this you feel the desire for Primitivo, cozze pelose mussels, fine sand, Blue Flag seas, archeology and more, Antonella is the right person for you. She’s not a guide, but a journalist and writer from Taranto, an expert connoisseur of Puglia food and wine, art and culture. University in Siena, specialization in New York, life in Taranto as conscious need: “I cannot live anywhere else”, and explains why this is where she has everything, including mention of the problems. “We had a collective brand for mussels that has not been renewed, nor was a protection consortium born - he says - before Marta (Archaeological Museum) re-opened, part of our archaeological collection was exhibited in Egnazia rather than in Taranto; in the 1920s, thirty-five to forty million oysters were kept in the waters of the Mar Piccolo, which had nothing to envy to the Breton or the Norman oysters, the best Italian panettone is made in Grottaglie, some of the most emblazoned olive oils come from these lands, the stories of these productions are half stories because we do not work hard enough to follow through”. The point is not to oppose the Tarantine lands to Salento, also because it would be historically incorrect: “Taranto, Brindisi and Lecce were once joined - explains the journalist Salento has been part of the ancient district of the Terre d’Otranto for centuries, whose maritime control was entrusted precisely to Taranto. Lecce and Brindisi earned a popularity that Taranto is still struggling to regain, but it’s a diamond in the rough waiting to be polished”. Antonella also recognizes Primitivo as important development leverage: “To extent that this is local leverage. I just came back from Canada and many asked me about the Bruno Vespa winery which is in the Tarantino area. Wine can promote the fact that the beaches of Campomarino are the Caribbean of Italy: sea, wine, beaches. I think of California and Napa Valley, don’t you think?” WRITER AND JOURNALIST

ANTONELLA MILLARTE

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

PRIMITIVO AND MURGIA TARANTINO

COZZA PELOSA MUSSELS The cozza pelosa or modiola mussel is a mollusk typical of the Gulf of Taranto, whose characteristic appearance is a shell almost entirely covered by fairly thick hairs that it uses to fix itself permanently to natural supports such as rocks. Cultivations of these mussels - a practice started in the year 1,000AD - are called “quadri”, made up of 4-7 rows of pillars - once made of wood, nowadays in iron - fixed on the bottom of the sea and connected just below the surface of the water with vegetable ropes called “zoche”. The ideal habitat for these molluscs is between Mar Grande and Mar Piccolo, where frequent tides and the presence of “citri”, freshwater pools, decrease the salinity of the water, lending a particular flavour to the mussels and other mollusks, this is historically an area devoted to farming oysters, scallops, heart clams, venus clams and sea urchins.

Al Gatto Rosso Taranto via Cavour, 2 3405337800 Among the few that still serve them fried, as appetizers, to be eaten strictly piping hot.

La Paranza Taranto via Cariati, 68 0994608328 Place known for its seafood appetizers, hot and cold: so abundant that it’s wise stop at those and not order anything else.

Gesù Cristo Taranto piazza Ramellini 0994777253 Mussels served in all possible and imaginable ways: raw, fried, au gratin, steamed, tarantina, with different pasta shapes.

ADDRESSES Where to eat  Ristorante Casamatta – Vinilia Wine Resort

Manduria (TA) – contrada Scrasciosa 0999908013 - www.viniliaresort.com  Vineria degli Artisti

Manduria (TA) – vico Senatore Giacomo Lacaita 3477753961  Al Gatto Rosso

Taranto – via Cavour, 2 0994529875 – www.ristorantegattorosso.com  Cuccagna. Giro di Vite

Crispiano (TA) – corso Umberto, 168 099616087 – www.lacuccagnagirodivite.com

Where to sleep  Albergo del Sole

Taranto – piazza Fontana 45 0994707612 – www.albergodelsoletaranto.it  Amastuola Wine Resort

Crispiano (TA) – s.p. 42 – 0999908025 www.amastuola.it  Vinilia Wine Resort

Manduria (TA) – contrada Scrasciosa 0999908013 – www.viniliaresort.com/it

Women-run wineries  Produttori Vini di Manduria

Manduria (TA) – via Fabio Massimo 19 0999735332 – cpvini.it  Varvaglione 1921

Leporano (TA) – via Amendola 36 0995332254 – www.varvaglione.com  Trullo di Pezza

Torricella (TA) – contrada Trullo di Pezza 0999872011 – www.trullodipezza.com

Crispiano Villa Castelli La Cuccagna

 Gianfranco Fino

Sava (TA) - via Piave, 12 0997773970 – www.gianfrancofino.it

Montemesola

Amastuola Wine Resort

Grottaglie

Francavilla Fontana

Albergo del Sole

Oria Produttori Vini di Manduria

Taranto

San Giorgio Ionico

Al Gatto Rosso

Casamatta Vinilia Wine Resort

Varvaglione 1921

Gianfranco Fino Manduria

Lizzano mangiare dormire

Trullo di Pezza

Vineria degli Artisti Torricella

cantine

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

 Amastuola

Crispiano (TA) – località Amastuola

COLLI DI LUNI SEASIDE VERMENTINO TORN AWAY FROM WOODLAND AND STONE An area torn carved from woods and pebbles, hills overlooking the sea, millennia of tradition and nature that can hardly be contained and that daily struggles to be approachable. The Vermentino, between Liguria and Tuscany, has mineral and fresh aromas, recalling the sea and the iodine of the oysters that have recently reappeared in these areas, but also the strong yet delicate flavours of the soil

Words by Emiliano Gucci â&#x20AC;&#x201C; photos by Roberto Merlo

STORIES

nstinctively, you'd say "finally, the sea in a glass". But you'd be wronging both: that glimpse of the Ligurian sea glittering before you, in a perpetual Tuscan sing-song drawl that turn to spezzino dialect; and to the wine that glows in the glass, surely savory and mineral, fresh, tense, but also capable of change, dressed up as something else, ready to overturn every idea in your head. That nectar conveys the sea but also the wind, be it brackish or from the Apuane mountains. And it feeds on a bizarre, uneven land, mixed with salt and sweat, clay, marble and sand, obviously sunny: a sun so close, white and big, that on special days actually looks like the Moon. Luni was a Roman city founded 177 years before Christ, owing its name to the goddess elsewhere called Selene, or from the shape of the port on which its strength stood: from here sailed boats packed with marble, wood and other local excellences. Since April 2017 the municipality that preserves the remains (once Ortonovo), was renamed Luni, along with Castelnuovo Magra and neighboring countries (fortified Sarzana was the pivot of the Val di Magra since the 12th century), offers its hills to one of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s youngest and most emerging Doc. The province of La Spezia trespasses into Massa Carrara, neither in the erect Liguria of the Cinque Terre nor in the rolling hills of Tuscany: leaving the plain each plot is torn from bush, forest, stone, and finding accessible ones is a difficult undertaking. "Etruriae Luna palmam habet", or "the wine of Luna wins the gold among those of Etruria", wrote Pliny the elder. So, rolled up sleeves and hard to work, moving from certainty: this is the Vermentino, a white grape variety from the French Riviera (but with probable Iberian origins), finding in these patches of soil the ideal cradle of expression at its best. Ottaviano Lambruschi holds one of the historical memories of the area:

listening to the clarity of his thoughts and seeing him climb into the vineyards at ninety is a regenerating experience. "We were share croppers but the war left us nothing, a burned out house and great need to work". From Castelnuovo Magra he moved to Carrara, in the quarries from which the finest marble in the world is extracted. "For thirty years I worked everything from driver to marble miner, day and night, and I also lost an ear to an explosion". And then he'd return, exhausted, to build a house. "In the mine, man looks too much like a beast". So the intuition, the purchase of a forest at 220 meters above sea level because, "the plain is good only for cabbage", and a lot of work, ď&#x201A;&#x201E;

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

1. A bunch of Vermentino among the rows of the Lunae Bosoni vineyard 2. Piana di Luni, between the Apuane Alps and the Gulf of La Spezia 3. Ottaviano Lambruschi, historic memory of these areas 4. The village of Castelnuovo Magra, nestled on Mount Bastione that slopes towards the valley of the river Magra

VERMENTINO DEI COLLI DI LUNI

THE BEST LABELS ACCORDING TO VINI D’ITALIA 2018

NNN

TOSCANA Fosdinovo

3 9

TRE BICCHIERI Colli di Luni Vermentino Costa 1 Marina '16 – Ottaviano Lambruschi Castelnuovo Magra (SP) www.ottavianolambruschi.com Colli di Luni Vermentino Lunae Et. Nera '16 – Lunae Bosoni Luni-Ortonovo (SP) – www.cantinelunae.com

Sarzana

Colli di Luni Vermentino Sup. Fosso di Corsano '16 – Terenzuola Fosdinovo (MS) – www.terenzuola.it

Castelnuovo Magra

4 5 6 1

Ortonovo

LIGURIA

DUE BICCHIERI ROSSI

7 8

Colli di Luni Vermentino 4 Et. Grigia '16 – Lunae Bosoni Luni-Ortonvo (SP) – www.cantinelunae.com Colli di Luni Vermentino Il Maggiore '16 – Ottaviano Lambruschi Castelnuovo Magra (SP) www.ottavianolambruschi.com

Colombiera-mollicciara

Colli di Luni Pianacce '16 Giacomelli Castelnuovo Magra (SP) www.azagricolagiacomelli.it

Bocca di Magra

Colli di Luni Vermentino Sarticola '16 La Baia del Sole-Federici Luni-Ortonovo (SP) – www.cantinefederici.com

Colli di Luni Vermentino Sup. Villa Linda '16 – La Pietra del Focolare Luni-Ortonovo (SP) – www.lapietradelfocolare.it

Colli di Luni Vermentino V. Basse '16 Terenzuola Fosdinovo (MS) – www.terenzuola.it

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

STORIES

again, with the scraper to subtract land from the trees and murderous rocks, the amphitheater that still welcomes the beautiful Costa Marina vineyard which gives its name to the winery. "I always craved something of my own". His son grew up in this climate, with a father who, as Mother used to say "keeps a mistress up there" intending the vines he struggled to stay away from. And when the military service ended, Fabio would have continued in the army, but found himself here, proudly, to pull the strings of the constantly growing family business. "The philosophy is simple: aim for excellence holding true to tradition. The first step is to bring beautiful grapes into the winery, which come close to perfection". And it is likely that that precise military rigor, attention to detail and cleanliness, helped Fabio in reaching the goal (now, lending a hand, is also his daughter Ylenia). Each vineyard gives life to a cru, the Maggiore has been added to the Costa Marina, also up there, impervious and magnificent. "Young people are afraid to drive the tractor uphill - says Ottaviano - but not to drive against traffic at night". "I could have stayed in the army - Fabio jokes - I'm so used to the aye aye sir". They banter, father and son, and maybe have some conflicting views, but their eyes betray a boundless affection, a community of purpose. The new late harvest Vermentino is named Ottaviano, with part of the fermented grapes left in contact with the skins. In all the rest, love for the classic prevails: vinification in steel tanks, selected yeasts, controlled temperatures for about 40,000 bottles a year, each with a strong character, identity, true mirror of the Colli di Luni and its interpreters. Prizes and awards, all deserved, are boundless. "We like a clean wine that maintains quality over time, while respecting the characteristics of the vintage". Not too far is the Giacomelli farm, where Roberto Petacchi has followed in the footsteps of his maternal 

THAT 1967 GIRO D'ITALIA AND LUIGI VERONELLI’S DISCOVERY OF VERMENTINO Vermentino, a widespread grape variety in Liguria and Sardinia, has always been present in this area where river Magra opens and Liguria fades into the plain of Luni, climbing up the hills of Sarzana, Castelnuovo Magra, Ortonovo and with Fosdinovo joins northern Tuscany. It's precisely in this last part of Lunigiana that production of Vermentino dei colli di Luni is concentrated: 160 hectares of vineyards overlooking a unique and enchanting landscape, one of the very few examples in Italy and unique in Liguria of interregional Doc. As a wine already appreciated by Roman settlers and Pliny the Elder, it has acquired a modern identity especially from the mid-70s when it was made into wine in purity. The articles of young columnist Luigi Veronelli (it was the year 1967) following the Giro d'Italia presented the wine as a highlight in the scope of quality wines, as tenacious will of winemakers and oenologists and the realization of the Enoteca pubblica della Liguria e Lunigiana (housed in the historic Ingolotti palace in Castelnuovo Magra). Everything contributed to the success of a wine surpassing its geographical boundaries. Vermentino stands out for its imposing structure (with its longlasting prerogative) and for the elegance of its scents: it has a great versatility in food pairing, such as raw oysters from our gulf to more structured dishes such as fritters made with rossetti fish, ciuppin (fish soup) or muscles stuffed à la spezzina... plus a classic of the area like rabbit stuffed with Taggiasca olives doused and simmered with Vermentino – Claudio Mazzoni, restaurant La Posta di La Spezia

GAMBERO ROSSO

JULY-AUGUST 2018

VERMENTINO DEI COLLI DI LUNI

GOLFO DEI POETI A COASTAL STORY NARRATED BY GREEN OYSTERS words byLoredana Sottile

A single adjective would be enough to describe this itinerary as best as possible: green. The green of the promontory, which, like in a watercolor painting, is reflected in the waters below. And the green of the table, which ranges from the strong hues of the most famous pesto sauce of Italy and the soft tones of the green oysters. We're in green Liguria, in the picturesque Portovenere, the "sixth terra" that anticipates the other five, of which it is harbor and encore. The view overlooking the gulf from the Castello Doria doesn't fear comparisons with any last-generation drone: just climb up to to the top to spot the Cinque Terre, the island of Palmaria with its hiking trails, the cave of Byron and the whole Gulf of Poets, windmills turned into watchtowers, the Church of San Pietro that looks like a fortified castle built on the sea, the rocks where, according to the legend Venus stopped, fascinated by the lush vegetation and finally, the palace-fortresses that, with their pastel colors, have become the picture-perfect symbol of this territory. The heart of the town, with its shops, exclusive boutiques and clubs, pulsates in the narrow streets snaking amid these buildings. Among these, La Piazzetta deserves a stop: an intimate and familiar local that offers refuge to customers from breakfast to after dinner. The culinary proposal ranges from fragrant croissants in the morning to typical

GAMBERO ROSSO

Ligurian focaccias, by way of testaroli pasta with pesto. Opposite, there is the reign of olive oil lovers, Bansigo oil bar, which offers bottles and tastings of extra-virgin olive oil from the area's Razzola variety. All around, beyond the wall of the fortress-houses, almost watching over all this treasure, there are the fishermen who like to call themselves the "conscience of the Gulf", attentive that progress doesn't come in the way of what was created in this sort of "vineyard of the sea," populated especially of 'muscoli' (aka mussels) and oysters, which bear a trademark: the green color of the typical seaweed of the area. To get a closer look at the marine life, the Cooperativa dei Miticoltori Spezzini (90 members) organizes exclusive boat tours for the Grand Hotel of Portovenere, with the fishermen themselves, who conclude the experience with an oyster tastings and wine. Leading the tours is a very special guide: the seagull Arturo, a lookout of the sea."Oysters are a bit like the wines - explains fisherman Paolo Varrella - their characteristics depend a lot on what we can define marroir (the equivalent of terroir for wines, ed.). These oysters, for example, naturally present their characteristic green color, while, the French for this same effect place the oysters in special tanks in contact with seaweed". The oysters here are a historical sea culture (dating back to 1887), ď&#x201A;&#x201E;

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STORIES

grandfather (who gave the company its name) and aims at producing original wines of finesse and elegance. Say vermentino and the hills will respond, with the recovery of historical plots in incredibly evocative contexts, like Giardino dei Vescovi surrounded by ancient walls (next to the medieval castle of Castelnuovo), Villa Baracchini that unrolls like a lawn in front of his home: it's like travelling between Burgundy and Bordeaux clos and chateau, but you can see glimpses of the Ligurian sea, mountain peaks, remains of 18th century frescoes, ruins of old aqueducts. And the effect is even more intriguing. "For us, the territory also means safeguarding certain agricultural environments" says Roberto, whose passion he communicates with every gesture. But he also states that "it's important to live in the vineyard" and that "wine is a living product: we can know 10% of its mysteries, while the remaining 90 will always be unknown". Meaning zero nonesense. No certification but treatments reduced to the bone, zero pesticides and use of only natural fertilizers, recycling of prunings to feed the boilers that heat the company. Eleven hectares, a total production of 85,000 bottles, Vermentino that in the range of labels reflects the mood of the parcels of origin: strongly mineral Boboli with hints of flint, moss, aromatic herbs; Pianacce that focuses on fresh fruit, acacia and elderflowers, hawthorn; Giardino dei Vescovi reminiscent of sulfur, iron, lignite, coal. No foreclosure for the other white berries present in the rows, indeed, "the idea of grape variety should be re-evaluated in the original wines, which rarely were vermentino in purity" (now the specification requires a minimum 90%, but pairs with a DOC of more generic Bianco). And use of large wooden barrels for calibrated refinements. His thoughts on the Colli di Luni? "It's a reality that should be re-evaluated starting from the historical boundaries, extending the gaze to Candia and the entire Lu- ď&#x201A;&#x201E;

TYPICAL STREET FOODS OF THE SPEZZINO AND LUNIGIANA AREAS

Farinata (chickpea and olive oil flatbread)

Torta di riso (puff pastry pie filled rice, cheese and prescinseua)

Testaroli (water, flour and salt crepe)

Paper cone filled with assorted fish fry

Panissa (similar to farinata, without olive oil)

Cod fritters

4 Torta di bietole (puff pastry pie filled with Swiss chard and prescinseua)

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8 Panigacci (Tuscan equivalent of testaroli)

VERMENTINO DEI COLLI DI LUNI

mari. The hotel's cocktail bar also speaks Ligurian (the border dia while the oyster farms belong to a more recent history: "We started again in 2006 - continues Varrella - and now we have also lect), where, together with classic cocktails guests can taste signareintroduced the flat type, typical of our gulf. The life cycle of the ture ones based on liquors of the region, produced by the distillery of nearby Colli Lvnae winery. The winery is certainly worth visiting oyster begins in October/November and lasts about a year.” The (see also the article by Emiliano Gucci), to understand what quality step from the sea to the pan is quite short. Expressing all this "marenotourism today is all about. With a history and solid roots in the roir" on the plate is a very stimulating challenge, as explained by territory and the intuition of its charismatic founder, Paolo Bosoni, Francesco Parravicini, executive chef of the Palmaria Restaurant, today the estate is not just a winery, but a forge of family-oriented within the Grand Hotel. A challenge for the territory and its direcideas, with in-house jams and liquor laboratories. Entering the tor Antonio Polesel: after housing a Franciscan convent since the latter is like going through the door of an alchemist's laboratory, 1600s and transformed into a hotel in 1970, the structure reopened redolent of citronella, oranges, lemons, wild roses, peach leaves, a few years ago and recently was bestowed 5 stars (the only one from which the most famous liqueurs of the area are born, such as in the Cinque Terre and the Gulf of Poets). By hiring Parravicini rosolio, persichetto and limoncino are produced. "This is the realm the restaurant has carved out a central point in the life of the fishof Signora Fiorella Stoppa - says Debora Bosoni (Paolo’s daughter ing village, erasing the idea that in luxury hotels of such tourist in charge of hospitality) the owner of a historic liquoreria in La Spedestinations only foreign guests dine at the hotel restaurant. "The zia. When years it became difficult for her to carry on the producrelationship with the fishermen is constant - says the chef – Just tion on her own, we offered to come here. We have been together think that one of the suppliers, Matteo, calls me at 3 AM to tell me since then but forget about what he caught. So, then I'm revealing her magical recipes". there in my bed thinking about All products here can be tasted fish and how to cook it the next and purchased. Ideally riding to day". The result is a localitythe end of this horseshoe piece inspired cuisine that's always of Liguria, pushing all the way modern, that however, does to Lerici, the third Municipality not give in to banal classicism, - after Portovenere and La Speand which is inspired by the zia - overlooking the Gulf of legendary Grand Tour era. To Poets. After a visit to the two realize it Lombard-native Francastles (the one in Lerici and cesco –boasting a curriculum in San Terenzo), almost like a that includes the Rimini Grand beacon, 60 years young LoHotel and the Milan Four Seacanda Miranda welcomes us. sons, passing through Harry's The view from here is priceBar in London – has learned less, the comfortable environfrom the local women's cookment, the delicious and reasing, grasping recipes and sesuring cuisine. All based on crets. A few examples include fish. And this part of the coast destructured mussels alla is the destination of over 300 spezzina; trofie pasta al pesto; swimmers who, every year in millefoglie del Levante (a vegAugust, dive in Portovenere to etarian club sandwich made challenge the waters swimwith prescinseua cheese). ming to San Terenzo during "What I find very stimulating is the Byron Cup: an internabeing located in a borderland: tional competition celebratone step away from Tuscany ing the historic undertaking of and not far from Piedmont Lord Byron who, according to and Emilia-Romagna; places legend, swam across the gulf where, in turn, I bring my own to reach his friend poet PB heritage. So even in the dishes Shelley. A legend, of course. customers can notice this méBut everything here is to some lange of flavours". In addition degree legendary. And if, lookto fish, also many legumes ing closely, perhaps, Byron's and elements of the earth are 2 silhouette is still visible, beemployed: chickpea mesciùa, tween the Arpaia grotto and cannellini beans, farro with 1. Portovenere: since 1997, together with the islands of the Montemarcello promonPalmaria, Tino, Tinetto and the Cinque Terre, added to extra-virgin olive oil, gargantory. "I had a dream, which Unesco heritage sites elli pasta with chianina sauce, was not entirely a dream". 2. Oyster harvest in the Miticoltori Spezzini breeding areas pasta with chickpeas and cala.

The terroir could be defined as "marroir". A sea whose algae lend colour and flavour to mollusks

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STORIES

ALESSANDRO VIGNALI. AN OUTSIDER IN THE NAME OF NATURE In this globalized, computerized era, I brings it back to its purity - says Franwanted to give my children something cesco Petacco, his trusted oenologist concrete, and restore the pleasure of consultant - playing with polyphenols being confronted with nature, of being present in the skins he produces wines able to graze your knees and know that support themselves". "We have what mud is". Alessandro Vignali is a a big responsibility towards the enmarshal in the Carabinieri with imporvironment - Alessandro echoes him tant missions against drug trafficking - handing it back intact, or better still and mafia, in addition to a 9-metre enriched, to future generations". dive in the riverbed that caused a seThe labels are many, personal and rious injury and a week in a coma. "But even graphically poignant, the wines we flew in two," he says, perhaps as a multiply as like Alessandro's ideas: consolation. always original and well calibrated, reAfter his leave, he turned his life around flecting his nature and constitute the focusing all on Pezzo Grande, historical real surprise of this jaunt in the Colli soils of Ortonovo (today Luni) dominadi Luni. Sticking to the subject of verted by the village of Nicola: already in mentino (even if the reds Shiraz and the 19th century Bon Blanc was being Grenache deserve their own chapter), made, a fine wine of the Fabbricotti the Vinacciolo di Luna is a new version family, known worldwide for the Carrefermented in the bottle, the Plinio rara marble. "My grandfather was their is part of the Doc with a golden and farmer, and unbelievable to say he was shiny color, exotic scents and lively juialready able to prune in guyot". ciness, decidedly savory, the Lun'antica When Alessandro arrived there was focuses on maceration that enhances nothing left, the vines were replanthe maturity and minerality of the fruit, ted in 2006 and also Terra della Luna 5 with a long and opulent finish. "Terriwinery-house is his project: green artory is our identity, and nobody can take it away from us". As chitecture, with photovoltaic system and heat pumps, it is a long as we have interpreters like Alessandro Vignali, we can "passive home, which produces more electricity than it burns". rest assured that it will be so. Needless to say, the approach to viticulture is equally completely natural, chemistry is taboo and the goal (in some cases already reached) is renouncing any addition of sulfur dioxiTerra della Luna de. "Alessandro understands the essence of the territory and Ortonovo (SP) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; terradellaluna.com

nigiana. It would benefit from a careful zonation, a thorough research in identifying the land really suited for our wine. The soil, the seashore, the aromas, the typical flavor that we can get: we have an invaluable resource that must be preserved and looked after over time". Moving to Ortonovo/Luni, whose hilltop village faces Castelnuovo, the reference company is certainly Lunae Bosoni, which in the structured Ca'Lunae has created a fulcrum for the knowledge and enhancement of wine. There's a beautiful space dedicated to tastings and sales, including solutions for hospitality, for events, a museum, and a laboratory for making jams and liquor, crafting traditional elixirs such

as the Persichetto made with peach leaves and white wine. "Territory for me is my family, my home, our history. Of course, in life I could have done something else, but it would have killed a part of me". Diego Bosoni supports his father Paolo, still in great shape and with clear ideas, in the company management, where the family is totally involved: mother Antonella, sister Debora, and several uncles. Our commitment is shown by the facts: "Next to our vineyards we have consolidated a network of wine producers who work according to our company's principles, respecting the environment and the product: green manure, no weeding, natural fertilizers, hand harvesting in ď&#x201A;&#x201E;

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MINI GLOSSARY Fainà Chickpea flour flatbread is a peasant dish whose paternity has always been disputed between Genoa, Savona and La Spezia. It is a very flat salted pancake, prepared with chickpea flour, water, salt and olive oil popular however throughout most of the Tyrrhenian coast Mesciùa Literally, “mixed”: this is a dish that employs leftovers, probably invented by the port handlers by collecting and putting together grains and vegetables spilling out of the transported sacks Muscolo In Liguria this is the word for “mussel”. The scientific name is in fact, Mytilus galloprovincialis, although it is called mussel in much of the Peninsula. But if you think about the corresponding foreign words, the association easy: "mussel" in English and Dutch, "muschel" in German, "mexil" in Portuguese and "moule" in French

6 7

5. Alessandro Vignali of Terra della Luna: after the leave of the Arma dei Carabinieri he dedicated himself body and sould to his vineyards. 6. Ortonovo, which now bears the name of the historic Roman center of Luni: the origin is derived from the consecration in Roman times to the goddess Luna; but it could also derive from the Celto-Ligurian term Lun or Luk, as adopted by nearby Lucca. 7. Detail of the shoot of a Vermentino vine that forms a particular and evocative design, captured by the photographer in the vineyard

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Prescinseua Traditional clotted milk cream cheese used as filling for pansoti, for Easter savory pie, and for barbagiuai (fried pumpkin ravioli) Sgabei Dough made with flour, salt, water and brewer's yeast, left to rise, fried and served hot with meats and cheeses Testaroli Unleavened small focaccias made with flour, water and salt, cooked in the characteristic earthenware dishes (testetti) from which their name derives

STORIES

small crates". What follows is a wide variety of scattered situations, a sort of mapping of the soils and their potential. The interpretations of vermentino are therefore different: "Etichetta Grigia encapsulates the alluvial and mediummix soils of the plain, focusing on immediacy and easy drinking, the Etichetta Nera, from the rocky highland parcels, goes to premium for the ninth time Consecutive and has more mature fruit, complex character, Cavagino is a cru that partially refines in barrique, the Numero Chiuso is an experiment that challenges time: careful selection of the bunches for a single twenty-hectolitre barrel, fouryear delayed output". The numbers are very important for the area, 80 hectares of vineyards and production that reaches half a million bottles. The winery, "near the house where I was born, under the two barrels I used to play as a child", adapts with the construction of a new 3,000 square meter colossus, geothermal plant and photovoltaic panels, works non-stop to accommodate the next harvest. The new Federici winery, La Baia del Sole, has been operational since 2015: in bio-architecture, with an underground part that uses constant temperature and good humidity, it combines historical structures and guarantees ideal conditions for the production of a considerable line of wines. At a stone's throw from the archaeological excavations of the old Luni, in the wake of a peasant tradition re-launched from the early 1900s; the latest generation is represented by Andrea and Luca, supporting parents Isa and Giulio Federici who in 1985 took over the old farmhouse, the company's fulcrum, focussing all on quality viticulture. "Vermentino is the gift of Papa Giulio" says Andrea Federici, responsible for the agronomic and commercial aspects of the business: "He has entrusted us with it, stimulating us to improve it over time". Innovation and technology are perceived in this same light: improve the quality of work without distorting ď&#x201A;&#x201E;

8 8. The Roman amphitheatre in Luni (Ortonovo) 9. The Bosoni family, owner of Cantine Lunae Bosoni in Luni-Ortonovo 10. The Federici family, owner of the La Baia del Sole winery in LuniOrtonovo 11. Heroic harvest among the rows of Riomaggiore, with terraces overlooking the sea 12. Ivan Giuliani, owner of the Terenzuola winery in Fosdinovo, on the Tuscan side of the Doc Vermentino dei Colli di Luni

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VERMENTINO DEI COLLI DI LUNI

Mangiare

ADDRESSES

Castello di Pontebosio

Dormire

WHERE TO EAT Pontebosio

 La Posta

La Spezia – via G. Minzoni 018776437 – www.lapostadiclaudio.com  Armanda Castelnuovo Magra (SP) piazza G. Garibaldi, 6 – 0187674410

Aulla

TOSCANA

 Tre Torri Portovenere (SP) – piazza Bastreri 0187790477 – www.trattoriatretorri.it  I Capitelli

Matteotti – Sarzana (SP) 0187691445 – www.ristoranteicapitelli.it piazza

Castello Malaspina

Osteria della Corte La Posta

Fosdinovo

I Capitelli

Locanda il Monastero

La Spezia

Luni-Ortonovo (SP) – via per Nicola, 46 018766857 – www.ristorantedafiorella.com loc.

Tellaro – via Fiascherino 92 – Lerici (SP) 0187964012 – www.locandamiranda.com

La Pia Centenaria Armanda La Ville Relais

 Palmaria del Grand Hotel Portovenere

G. Garibaldi, 5 – Portovenere (SP) 0187777751 – www.portoveneregrand.com via

Lerici Da Fiorella La Piazzetta

 La Pia Centenaria

– La Spezia – via Magenta, 12 0187739999 – lapia.it street food

Portovenere Tre Torri

 Da Fiorella

 Locanda Miranda

Sarzana

LIGURIA

 Osteria della Corte La Spezia – via Napoli 0187715210 – www.osteriadellacorte.com

Palmaria del Grand Hotel Portovenere

Locanda Miranda

Bocca di Magra

Marina di Carrara

 Caffè La Piazzetta Portovenere (SP) – via Capellini 56 – 0187791682

WHERE TO SLEEP  Grand Hotel Portovenere

G. Garibaldi, 5 – Portovenere (SP) 0187777751 – www.portoveneregrand.com via

 Locanda il Monastero

Luni-Ortonovo (SP) – loc. Nunziata via Casanova, 2 – 0187669022 www.locandailmonastero.it  Le Ville Relais

La Spezia – salita al Piano, 19 0187751518 – www.levillerelais.it  Castello Malaspina

Fosdinovo (MS) – via Papiriana, 2 0187680013 – www.castellofosdinovo.it  Castello di Pontebosio

Pontebosio (MS) – via Pontebosio, 3 0187472050 – www.castellodipontebosio.it

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STORIES

THE SHORT STORY

WHEN PARODI WEARS HIS HAT dreams by Filippo Lubrano, of the performative poets collective I Mitilanti Artworks by Simone Pellegrini ("Condizione di fondo", 127x230 cm, 2017. Courtesy of Cardelli&Fontana Gallery) It’s 5.20 AM when M. kisses E. on the forehead, climbs in the Fiat Panda and, in the absence of morning traffic, in less than 15 minutes is on board his fiberglass fishing boat. From behind the container ship Emmaus the dawn appears, catching him in earflaps and boots. "Parodi is wearing his hat - he warns me, pointing to the clouds above the mountain above us - put on your waterproof gear". M. is part of the association of the Mitilicoltori spezzini, 82 members, rather low average age, after a finally successful generational shift. "Sometimes they call us fishermen - he says - but we are actually farmers of the sea", he claims with pride. His vegetable garden is a cube of salt water, bounded by vendìe, conduction ropes that get their name from the Taranto dialect. The cooperative follows socialist laws: no one has the right to more than 1,500 meters of cocchi, plant-based ropes on which mussels attach themselves and grow in the "muscoli" farms, how locals call the bivalves in this part of Italy. In the geometric expanse behind the breakwater, M. recognizes his floating

buoys as if visibly marked by a label. He steers the fishing boat to the first of these and then maneuvers with the fuerce, a wooden pole with a rudimentally effective attachment at the end. M. collects the mussels from his vegetable garden, lifting them from the rest and loading them on the boat in large 25 Kg containers. M. continues to do this even when it starts to drizzle, when the downpour that makes the Gulf of Poets look like a place out of a book by Arthur Conan Doyle, M. continues until he has finished filling sixteen containers. Four quintals of muscoli, which will then be consumed throughout the province but also by the mid-range income bohémien customers of Eataly - in marinara, in pasta sauce, or stuffed, filled with breadcrumbs, mortadella, a bit of cheese and mixed pleonastically with other muscles, finely chopped. Only when the work is done, does M. direct the bow of the fishing to the stabulatore register, where he waits for his rigorously traced product to be rinsed with a solution that sterilizes it. The process takes place without pause, also

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because time, as it often happens out at sea, does not allow any discounts: the muscoli take a year and a half to two years to grow, but once separated from the cocchi, they die within three days. While we wait, M. takes me beyond the structure where the oysters - recently reintroduced in the gulf nurseries - are packaged by hand, opening the doors of the historical archive, superimposed on the most recent shots. In one of the black and white photos portrays a dozen people gathered under a gazebo with a sign reading, "Collecting signatures pro-mussel growers". I ask for an explanation, but nobody seems to have a convincing answer. In a house in the village of Cadimare, meanwhile, E. has placed on the cutting board, next to the mezzaluna chopping tool, an open loaf of bread, half a dozen cubes of mortadella, parmigiano, eggs, marjoram, tomatoes, parsley, a clove of garlic. Then she picks up the phone: "My love, beautiful and big, even just weighing a pound, but be sure to bring them large". M. jumps back on the fishing boat with bulging waterproof pockets.

VERMENTINO DEI COLLI DI LUNI

and grandfather Iseo: "He told us of the custom of hiding a small batch of the best wine, to be enjoyed later in the family: and so, from the two historic vineyards, we have given light to this precious selection". Finally, crossing the Tuscan border to Terenzuola, in the municipality of Fosdinovo, 350 meters above sea level. The business started with the work of Luigi Giuliani who, after the crisis of 1929, returned to Italy from New York and bought the first three hectares; after him, his son Carlo managed the company for thirty years. But it was Ivan Giuliani, his nephew, who was in the right place at the right time, when the DOC Vermentino dei Colli di Luni was born. "Before graduation college I worked in the vineyard with my studies, but in '95 I did military service between Friuli and Slovenia, I found myself daily among the producers of that beautiful border area, which not only taught me winemaking techniques but all the passion and attachment to the one's land". Back home, he decided that being a winemaker would be the profession of a lifetime. Over time he planted new vineyards, redeemed older ones, expanded into surrounding municipalities and lately also in the Cinque Terre. 11 Immediately, he proposed a personal rendition of the vermentino, with full ripeness "that the bunch reaches with some hard work", plus cold macerations: the thread connecting him with Friuli the link with the past, "a fundamental has never been cut. "We also have a comresource for the future". monality of land, for geology and historiThirtyfive hectares, those owned are cal soil formation". growing with the re-planting of new Vigne Basse is a "Mediterranean basket" vineyards in three parcels in the area and focusses on harmonic white floral of Palvotrisia, in Castelnuovo Magra. note, the Fosso di Corsano takes up an"The Vermentino Sarticola sums a plot of cient clones in soils that enhance minhistorical traceability - says Luca Federal, hydrocarbon note. "If this is the erici, winemaker - It was already menwine of the grandparents, the two Pertioned in Roman times, immersed in the mano (white and red) are the grandparMediterranean and enjoying a microclients themselves: a recovery of tradition mate blessed by the winds of the Apuane with fifteen types of grapes: our personal mountains and the sea breeze: this reNoah's ark". sults in intense scents, proverbial flaAnd there is so much heritage to save vour". A note also for Vermentino Oro in these lands. ď ś 12 d'IsĂŠe, from the names of mother Isa

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RECIPES

ANGELO SABATELLI BORN IN

AGE

RESIDENT IN

Monopoli

NAME OF THE RESTAURANT

Angelo Sabatelli Ristorante

OWNER

RESTAURANT CONTACTS:

PARTNER

via Santa Chiara, 1 Putignano (BA) - 0804052733

EMPLOYEE

RESTAURANTS BEFORE THE CURRENT ONE

  

Borgo Egnazia (Savelletri), One & Only Le Touessrok (Mauritius), Palladio del Ritz Carlton (Shanghai), Grissini del Grand Hyatt (Hong Kong)

www.angelosabatelliristorante.com NAME OF THE SOUS CHEF

SOMMELIER

MOST LOVED INGREDIENT

Riccardo Losappio

Gianni Tortora

Extra-virgin olive oil/Caviar

AGE OF THE SOUS CHEF

IN THE DINING ROOM:

LEAST LOVED INGREDIENT

Laura Giannuzzi, Gianni Tortora, Daniele Sabatelli, Simona Sabatelli, Marco Quarto, Valentino Dellagiacoma

None

KITCHEN BRIGADE:

Angelo Sabatelli, Riccardo Losappio, Francesco Innocenti, Andrea Mazzei, Giovanni Sgaramella, Uva Romano, Alessandro Guagnini, Isacco Vanzetta

THE DISH OF A LIFETIME

My mother’s stuffed eggplant GRAND MAESTRO WORSHIPPED

Mino Allegrini, a fantastic pastry chef who left us prematurely MOST RESPECTED PEER

Niko Romito COVERS

MY IDEA OF CUISINE IN 10 WORDS

Identitarian, clean, “simple”, essential, mine FAVOURITE RESTAURANT ABROAD

Troisgros in Ouches (Loire) HAD I NOT BEEN A CHEF...

THE WINE ABOVE ALL OTHERS

I like to paint, so maybe an artist, in any case an artistic profession

Es by Gianfranco and Simona Fino La Côte Faron by Jacques Selosse

LAST ALBUM DOWNLOADED

Divide - Ed Sheeran LAST BOOK READ

Shadows in the vineyard: The true story of a plot to poison the world’s greatest wine

YOUR DISHES PRESENTED:

Cuttlefish, baby calamari, almond and lemon Rice, potatoes and mussels…… “essential” Sea bass,arugula and tomato Burnt earth

a cura di Paolo Cuccia

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ANGELO SABATELLI

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RECIPES

Cuttlefish, allievo*, almond and lemon Yields 4 servings Candied lemon 100 g lemon peel 100 g sugar 200 g lemon juice 100 g water

L’allievo* 120 g allievi (2 weighing aprox. 60 g each)

20 g Cognac 200 g fresh dulse seaweed 300 g cold water 50 g fresh tomato, cubed Cuttlefish veil 30 g heavy cream 200 g cuttlefish (white part only) 200 g urchin roe 10 g egg white 5 g Xantana

For the garnish 6 g sea licorice 60 g white almond cream 20 g candied lemon, finely julienned

White almond cream 200 g whole almonds (non hydra- For the sea licorice tated) 10 g shallot 120 g mineral water 20 g butter 100 g cuttlefish ink

For the candied lemon: blanche and shock lemons in ice water three times to peel off the skin. In another saucepan, boil the water with sugar and lemon juice. When boiling add the lemon peels and cook gently until translucent. Cool and julienne. Any leftover can be stored in the fridge up to 4 weeks. For the almond cream: in a Pacojet glass, place whole almonds and water to freeze. Process three times and save in a pastry bag (as an alternative, use a powerful blender to reduce to a fine cream). L’allievo: cut the body and head of the small cuttlefish into four identical halves, remove the mouth and liver and store in very cold sea water. For the cuttlefish veil: in a blender, reduce the cuttlefish with the egg white, strain it to eliminate any tougher parts, save the white part and season to taste. Divide in two equal parts into sous vide bags, seal and using a rolling pin, flatten to obtain two rectangles. Steam at 65°C for approximately 6 minutes, shock in ice water and cut in half forming 4 equal rectangles. For the sea licorice: brown the shallot in butter, add the cuttlefish ink and Cognac, and reduce the sauce. Add dulse seaweed and cover with cold water, cooking over mild heat. As soon as the liquid boils, add the tomato and heavy cream, reducing all by 50%. Blend everything in a Thermomix for 2 minutes at max speed, add the urchin roe and Xantana; blend more and press through a sieve. Gently smear a thin layer of cream on silicone mats and dehydrate at 60°C for 4-5 hours. Then blend everything and store the obtained powder in an airtight container. Plate: Pipe two tips of almond cream at the centre of each dish, top one with the body and the other with the head of the allievo, season with candied lemon, and cover all with the cuttlefish veil, dusting it with sea licorice.

* Allievi are young cuttlefish that when curled become crunchy like cucumbers

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ANGELO SABATELLI

Rice, Potatoes and Mussels “essential” Yields 4 servings Puffed rice 20 g Carnaroli rice 8 g Canestrato cheese, grated Peanut oil for frying

For the mussel broth 400 g mussel broth 20 g extra-virgin olive oil 10 g parsley, coarsely chopped 1 garlic clove, unpeeled

For the mussels 500 g mussels 1 l mineral water, boiling

Potatoes and zucchini 100 g potatoes 100 g zucchini 80 g extra-virgin olive oil salt Candied tomatoes 50 g candied tomato petals 3 g di lemon zest

For the puffed rice: cook the rice for 30 minutes in salted water, drain well and dehydrate at 60°C for approx. 3 hours. The result must be dry but not too much, otherwise i twill not grow during cooking. Heat the oil at 190°, pour in the rice and as soon as it puffs up, drain it well on paper towel. While still hot, dust it with grated cheese. Store in a warm place. For the mussels: clean and trim the bivalves and place them in a very hot pan over vivacious heat; add a ladle of water. Once open, drain the mussels saving the liquid in one container and the meats in another, and discarding the shells. For the mussel broth: sauté the garlic in olive oil until golden, add the chopped parsley followed immediately by the mussel liquid set aside earlier. When the liquid boils, remove the garlic and add a tsp. of Maizena to thicken. Adjust seasoning if necessary. Before serving, add the mussels to the piping hot broth. Note: the broth should not be too liquid, which will sog the rice too quickly. For the potatoes and zucchini: peel and cube the potatoes, chop the zucchini in the same size (approx. ½ centimetre cubes) using only the green part. Discard the white pulp. In a pan, sauté the potatoes with olive oil until golden and cooked through. Add the zucchini and sauté for 1 minute, adjust seasoning. For the tomatoes: season with lemon zest, place in a Pacojet glass and blast freeze. Process and place the obtained mix in a pastry bag (as an alternative to Pacojet, use a powerful blender to reduce to a fine cream). Plate: Pipe 3 tips of candied tomato cream in 4 deep dishes. Distribute in each plate potatoes and zucchini, add 5 mussels in each plate, 3 full tablespoons of broth in each plate, a thread of olive oil and serve. Finish each plate by adding to each plate 2 spoonfuls of puffed rice.

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RECIPES

Sea bass, arugula and tomato Yields 4 servings Yuzu gel 150 g yuzu juice 75 g water 15 g water (optional) 3,5 g agar agar Arugula 60 g wide leaf arugula 2 green shiso leaves (perilla frutescens) 1 g hazelnut oil 10 g extra-virgin olive oil salt

Baked sea bass sauce 300 g sea bass bones 50 g ramato variety heirloom tomato, chopped 20 g lemon (squeezed and chopped) 20 g white wine 1 garlic clove 6 Leccino olives 4 parsley stems 1 l water Candied tomato 50 g candied tomato petals 3 g lemon zest Sea bass fillets 4 Sea bass fillets, each weighing approx. 120 g 1 g Sansho pepper 20 g extra-virgin olive oil salt

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For the yuzu gel: In a small saucepan, boil the water with sugar and agar agar, when boiling, remove from the stove, add yuzu juice and transfer immediately to a chilled container. Once solid, mince and sear until creamy and velvety. Pass through a strainer, place in a squeeze bottle and store in the fridge. Prep the arugula: julienne the arugula and shiso finely and store in the fridge. When ready to use, season with salt and the two oils. For the sea bass sauce: put all ingredients in a shallow oven pan and bake at 180Â° for approx. 30 minutes, turn the bones over and bake an additional 30 minutes. Filter the obtained broth and discard all solids. Reduce the broth to have circa 200 g of liquid, season to taste. Seasoning the tomatoes: dress them with lemon peel, put them in a Pacojet glass and then blast freeze. After this process through the Pacojet, then put the mixture in a pastry bag (in the absence of Pacojet, use a powerful mixer without freezing). For the fillets: salt the sea bass fillets and cook them on both sides in a pan over moderate heat with a little oil, keep warm. Plate: on one side of the plate squeeze a line of candied tomato cream, over the fillet of sea bass seasoned with a little yuzu gel; sprinkle some sansho pepper and complete with the arugula. Serve the sauce separately to be poured directly into the plate at the tablea.

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ANGELO SABATELLI

Burnt Earth Yields 4 servings Biscuit 100 g bitter cacao 42,5 g sugar 72 g cold butter, in 1-cm cubes 30 g egg white 1 pinch of salt Gelato 275 g whole milk 50 g heavy cream 1 tonka bean, grated 3 egg yolks 70 g sugar 5 g gelatin, wet

For the biscuit: place all solids in a cutter and process, adding whites and butter at the end. As it begins to form “crumbs” stop the cutter and pour the mixture on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Store in the fridge for 30 minutes. Pre-heat the oven at 150°C and cook the cookie crumbs for 10 minutes, then lower the temperature to 130°C and bake a further 20 minutes. Cool on paper towel (with no flour, the crumbs release a little fat) and store in an airtight container. For the gelato: heat milk, heavy cream and tonka bean in a saucepan; cover and leave to steep for 10 minutes (to be used still hot later). Caramelize the sugar in another saucepan; once cooked remove the stove and add a third of the hot milk to melt the sugar; then add the rest of the milk. Add all to the Thermomix and churn at mark 8 speed, adding yolks and gelatin last. Cool in a chilled bain-marie. Let the gelato mature in the fridge for a day. Place in a Pacojet container and blast-freeze at -21°C. If necessry churn with a powerful mixer. Plate: With an ice cream scooper, form 4 balls of gelato each weighing about 100 g.; dredge in the crumbled biscuit. Each portion is a single ball, seasoned with a few flakes of Maldon salt. Serve immediately. Note: Simple dessert yet with a powerful sensory impact.

Other ingredients Maldon salt

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CITY GUIDE

20 20Via Pignatello Via Pignatello

17 17

Via Vittorio Via Vittorio Emanuele Emanuele II II

Piazza Piazza del Sale del Sale

Via Camollia Via Camollia

7 Via Montanini Via Montanini

Stazione Stazione

N N

28 28

11 11 Via Toselli Via Toselli SR2 SR2

19 19

14 14

18 18 VialeViale TozziTozzi Via Aretina Via Aretina

23 23

FI-SI FI-SI

SR2 SR2

Stadio A. Franchi Stadio A. Franchi Bucciano Bucciano Cerchiaia Cerchiaia Fortezza Medicea Fortezza Medicea

SI-GRSI-GR

VialeViale Marconi Marconi

SR2 SR2

27 27 VialeViale Toti Toti

88 metres: the vertiginous view from the Torre del Mangia does not fade during the descent, such is the grand and magic of this architectural jewel perched on the hill. On July 2 and August 16, for the Palio, the city becomes an open-air show, which awakens the most characteristic spirit of the 17 districts, called contrade. At the table, the legacy of flavours defines an earthly tradition that is still loved and deeply rooted. But there's no lack of surprises, both inside and outside the city walls

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FULL-COURT SIENA

Basilica di S. Francesco Via Pian d’Ovile SR2

Via dei Rossi

9 Via del Lavatoio

2 10

Via dei Rossi

Via Pantaneto

Piazza del Campo

Piazza Matteotti

5 13 Via di Città

Via del Porrione

26 Torre del Mangia Via Salicotto

Via Fontebranda

24 Piazza del Mercato Via Porta Giustizia Via del Capitano

Via Dupré

Duomo di Siena Casato di Sotto

Piazza del Duomo Santa Maria della Scala

FULL-COURT SIENA by Valentina Marino

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CITY GUIDE

The best in "ciccia" (meat) and creativity: Double-face Siena

1 Il Campaccio

Freshness and innovation v.lo del Campaccio, 2 0577284678 ilcampacciofoodewine. com Closed Wednesday Price: 55 euro The street Camporegio is one of the most evocative corners of Siena. From here one can enjoy one of the most beautiful views of the historic center. This small and well-kept place has been run by a couple for about three years, Adriano in the kitchen and Ilaria in the dining room. At lunch a three-course menu at 25 euros allows a quick and affordable meal. This does not mean that there is no quality, on the contrary: the poached egg with warm soppressata on turmeric bread is an example of imagination and substance. In the evening the menu changes, and there are things like tripe ravioli in lobster dashi. Proper service and fine cellar.

2 Campo Cedro

Unusual creations where Siena meets Tokyo via Pian d'Ovile, 54 0577236027 campocedro.com Closed Sunday Price: 50 euro Among the most interesting new openings, there is chef Kohsuke Sugihara's, Japanese by birth but Sienese by adoption. After working in the best restaurants in town, he set up on his own, and the beginnings are already promising. The restaurant is located in the historic center, removed from "passeggiata" bedlam. The pro-

posal is imaginative, with Asian references, especially in the hors d'oeuvres: duck breast with fresh cheese, cucumber and yolk marinated in miso; asparagus risotto, candied lemon and smoked robiola; suckling pork and ginger cream; and the refreshing grapefruit and kiwi. Wine list with a fair selection of bubbles.

numerous branches: in the city, within the Consorzio Agrario, it's a noteworthy pit stop for both pizza and bread lovers. The process is strictly coded: excellent ingredients - flour first of all, as mentioned, from self-grown wheat and ground in local mills 30 hours of leavening, digestibility, good assortment. Margherita, Ciaccia (plain no topping), with burratina, arugula pesto and Cetara anchovies and so on served on seasonal rotation.

3 Osteria Le Logge

Evolution of an ancient osteria via del Porrione, 33 057748013 osterialelogge.it Closed Sunday Price: 60 euro This is a historical venue that's renewed itself without distorting the evocative period environment. The cellar, located 17 meters underground, dug into tufa stone, is the custodian of thousands of bottles and is a venue in and of itself (see Un Tubo below). The cuisine proposal is halfway between pure tradition and more original dishes such as pasta with peas, mussel powder, ginger and dried bananas; lemon marinated mackerel with cauliflower and onion; or veal with eucalyptus sauce and blueberries. Fine desserts, knowledgeable and personable staff.

Fine cuisine and excellent wine via del Porrione, 28 0577221442 porrionecucinaevino.it Closed Wednesday Price: 80 euro Nearby - we are in the center - tourist traps abound. But PorriOne, strong of a solid and competent management, continues straight on the

MY SIENA LIFE AS A COMMUTER, AMID MEAT, NOSTALGIA OF THE SEA AND UNEXPECTED COCKTAILS I have been living here for two years: I am a "transplanted" Neapolitan who returns home on Fridays, so I learned to select carefully. I must say this is a place where you can eat well: the local cuisine is monothematic, and meat-based, and I can't deny that I sometimes miss the Mediterranean Sea. There are also a few places and a couple of fish shops (one in the Antiporto di Camollia area) where, when I feel the need for seafood, I find what I'm after, but in general menus are for carnivores. Eclectic and diversified, of course, by clientele, formulas and location––Siena offers countless views and corners so special and different from each other. Of Osteria Babazuf, for example, in via Pantaneto 85, I appreciate the rich and original menu that's always different, and their good wine, this is where I often bring friends from out of town. Right next door, at number 89, there is the prosciutto place "Crudo e Bollicine", open until late serving up raw meat and cured meats on grazing boards, plus excellent wine (from their own underground cellar). The overall environment furnished with pieces of modern design is very popular with young people because it has affordable prices, with pleasant and subtle music. On the homework commute I often stop at Bargello, in Via di Città 55, a small local run by two very smart guys, one of whom is a musician (Sixties and Seventies rock and blues are very welcome companions). The menu is solid (special mention goes to the "'mbriaco" pork, Chianti tuna and the Angus skirt steak). There are also valid bottles and a fine selection of distillates. Lastly, for lunch or dinner, for a chat or to enjoy a good concert, I go visit Pino, the "boss" of Il Campo, located at number 50 on the square, a jolly southern Italian owner who knows how to pamper his guests. Something good to drink, however, can also be found in unexpected corners. Like at 4 Cantoni, in Via di Città 134, an ordinary coffee shop where throngs of tourists pass through (as well as locals, especially in the morning) offering good standard between croissants, sandwiches, some simple dishes at noon time. In the evening however, behind the counter appears Peppe, who, surprisingly, mixes the best Martinis in town. – Daniele Pitteri, Director of the museum complex of Santa Maria della Scala

Pizza sold by weight

4 Menchetti via Pianigiani, 5 c/o Consorzio Agrario di Siena - 0577230263 menchetti.it Always open The family is originally from the Valdichiana, they are among the first promoters of the recovery of the Verna wheat (with which they also produce beer and pasta). Today it's a brand present throughout the region with

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5 PorriOne

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MY SIENA

right folcloristic tone - without exaggeration - affable and familiar service, but above all quality dumplings. It's no coincidence that this has become the favorite gathering for professionals, and not just lovers of the genre: Chen and Liya, the owners, are the authors of a true homestyle culinary proposal, made with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Neophytes can't skip tasting jiaozi (typcial dumplings of northern China): pork and celery, beef, vegetables, crispy beef with curry, offered every day in addition to the daily specials. The menu is long, and the choice is not easy, between jellyfish salad with baby onions and soy, and the fried pork intestine with leeks.

LITTLE NIGHTLIFE AND LOTS OF COURAGE: THE SMALL REVOLUTIONS OF A YOUNG CHEF Considering I'm not from here, but rather from the Florence, and that after three years I'm still a "foreigner", I don’t have many free moments to experience the city as a customer. Siena is a magical place on an artistic and architectural level, but also for this extremely devoted to tourist dining. If I like typical Tuscan fare––i.e. cured meats, well-made crostini, a nice plate of pici––the choice falls on Vinaio di Bobbe e Davide, a cheerful and informal tavern run by the Porciatti brothers, located on via Camollia 167. Together with the Prosciutteria in via Magalotti 1 (with a branch also in Florence), this one of the very few restaurants that I would recommend for example during Palio, which is a dangerous time to venture looking for quality dining. For less traditional dishes there is Salefino, well-designed space and more modern cuisine, but I have to be honest, I don't know much about the local nightlife: for drinks I sit at Le Logge cafe (via Pantaneto 11), in the most central area, near the Logge del Papa, or right in via del Campo, at number 27, at Liberamente Osteria, both at the restaurant and the pub. Regarding bakeries, I choose Corsini, one of the most famous, and if I want gelato, I walk a few steps from the restaurant to reach Masgalano on Via della Sapienza 47 (curiously named like the place next door, which is under a completely different management). The owners of the gelateria are a couple, she's from Siena, he's from Sicily, and they are professional, attentive and serious in what they do. Must-taste flavours? Hazelnut, dark chocolate and pistachio, both amazing. I do very little shopping inside the walls. We lack a local market. At Consorzio Agrario there is a little bit of everything (including good pizza by Menchetti); Manganelli (via di Città 71) is a very old grocery store, I am spoiled among for their homemade panforte and ricciarelli, spices and specialty products of any kind. In general, however, Siena is calibrated on the "known" and on the typical, and for those who work in the restaurant business this is a limit that's difficult to overcome. We are are very few and we offer different things: Osteria Le Logge, the aforementioned Salefino, PorriOne. It's not science fiction, of course, but in order to venture 'outside the walls' these are a good bet. With a little courage and willfulness. – Adriano Antonelli, chef at Il Campaccio

road of quality without taking any shortcuts. The proposal - three tasting menus, from 75 to 110 euros - ranges from classic to more modern dishes and offers great satisfaction: prawn tail and iced foie gras; duck ravioli, dried fruit and raspberries; mullet with plum salad and cherry tomatoes, squab sauce. Wide and deep cellar.

7 Salefino

Unexpected Siena via degli Umiliati, 1 0577287224 salefino-siena.com Closed Sunday Price: 40 euro Octopus, flat beans, radishes and passion fruit; mackerel, chard, almonds and tare sauce; diaphragm, black cabbage, smoked sardine and borettane onions. One of the few beacons in the tourist fog of the city, this courageous project put in place by a dining professional, has shaken the sleepy local restaurant scene with a trendy concept. The price policy is wise, natural wine-oriented wine cellar and flexible hours, a streamlined and inviting menu without distinction between starters, first and second courses and interesting prospects for new openings - a tapas bar on the horizon.

International cusine

6 Ravioli Wang C'era un cinese a Siena v.le Vittorio Emanuele II, 38 0577286288 ravioliwang.it Always open Price: 25 euro Standard appeal with the

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8 I Terzi

Great wines in the heart of town via dei Termini, 7 057744329 enotecaiterzi.it Closed Sunday Price: 45 euro The name says a lot: here the queen of the party is a winery (to be visited) equipped with thousands of bottles, with many goodies for the connoisseurs. But the dining is equally beguiling for traditional and seasonal proposals: the offer incliudes pici and chiantigiano ragù, Chianina steak, tartare, tagliolini with prawns, artichokes and basil cream. However, the menu changes often according to market availability and season. The ambiance is suggestive, a medieval tower, in a characteristic position: at the confluence of the "thirds" that divide the city.

9 Tre Cristi

Seafood in the hills v.lo di Provenzano, 1 0577280608 trecristi.com Closed Sunday Price: 65 euro Tuscan cuisine does not rely on meat alone. With a valid and recommended seafood offer, this place's menu is amostly "aquatic" (but meat dishes are not lacking) made with quality ingredients and balanced between classics and more original dishes. Think carpaccio of sea bass and Venus rice with prawns, asparagus and peppers; cuttlefish and prawns with creamed carrots; calamarata with monkfish, cherries and tuna roe; assorted fish fry with homemade mayo. The wine cellar is of good breadth, and the service is professional.

CITY GUIDE

Be it drinks, wine or pints, good music is never too far Birreria

10 La Diana via della Stufasecca, 1 0577222241 birraladiana.it Always open Price: 25 euro This is the pub and beer shop of the namesake "agricultural" brewery, a project of a group of young people who created the first craft and totally local brewery in the area. The supply chain begins and ends in the home: only homegrown barley is used in the production plant. The chalkboard menu speaks of a simple, homespun cuisine, equally made with ingredients found nearby: cannoli with ricotta and spinach; sausage and beans; eggplant parmigiana; fries; salads, sweet desserts. A small daily lunch menu.

Cocktail bar

11 I Parolai via S. Martini, 23 0577282467 - iparolai.it Closed Sunday, open evenings only Three-year old tapas bar and "G&T bar" ideal for long nights with music, tastings, "strange" snacks, high level mixology. As an example, in addition to the remarkable selection of gins (and spirits) from all over the world, there is also their own Senensis production (made only with local ingredients, juniper first and then tarragon, verbena supplied by a biodynamic vegetable garden). Cocktails (including the wine sold by the glass) are king, but the tapas are equally intriguing: can-

IN THE COUNTRY: FINE DINING AROUND TERRE DI SIENA Tavola di Guido della Locanda Le Piazze

Il Poggio Rosso dell'Hotel Borgo San Felice

loc. le Piazze, 41 0577743192 tavoladiguido.com Closed Wednesday; 3 Nov/21 Dec open during the weekend Price: 65 euro Solid shoulders and important experiences on Guido Haverkock's resume, a few years in a sublime four-star hotel with a panoramic terrace that alone is worth the visit. His style puts tourists and gourmets in agreement, without too many risks.

loc. San Felice 05773964 borgosanfelice.it Always open at night Price: 95 euro A resort that brings the ancient village back to life thanks to a skilful renovation. Double offer, more traditional at Osteria del Grigio, more gourmet at Poggio Rosso. For both the products are top notch (as the vegetables of the "orto felice" garden) and the - equally happy - intuitions of Fabrizio Borraccino, author of intriguing dish reinterpretations.

L' Asinello

Villa a Sesta via Nuova, 6 0577359279 asinelloristorante.it Closed Monday, open evenings only, except Sundays Price: 45 euro Senio Venturi, with his partner Elisa, narrates of these lands with a lively cuisine and without banality. Well-selected products, original ideas without too many complicated stuff, a location that entertains and comforts: an old stable, warm inside and scented with herbs in the garden. Contrada del Castel Monastero Resort

Monastero d'Ombrone 0577570001 castelmonastero.com Closed Sunday and Monday; open evenings only Price: 85 euro There is a "hidden" panzanella in the Greek salad of Stelios Sakalis, which tells the story of "his" Tuscany in this dream resort housed in a medieval castle of the year 1000, with spa (also for children) and a vegetable garden, first Italian venue "autographed" by Gordon Ramsay.

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PerillĂ

Rocca d'Orcia via Borgo Maestro, 74 0577887263 osteriaperilla.it Closed Wednesday at lunch and all day Tuesday Price: 80 euro Self defined as "osteria", but only for fun. In reality it's a project more than a restaurant, born under the wing of the Podere Forte company (which still supplies the kitchen) and Enrico Bartolini. Intriguing and unconventional ideas on the table, especially on the meat dishes. Meo Modo by Andrea Mattei del Relais Borgo Santo Pietro

loc. Palazzetto 0577751222 - meomodo.it Closed Monday Price: 120 euro A magical haven of hospitality with 200 hectares of organically grown vegetable gardens, with the Trattoria sull'Albero for the traditionalists, and for a more sophisticated experience seated at the tables of Andrea Mattei. "From the earth to the plate" is the diktat of a menu that knows

JULY-AUGUST 2018

how to amaze, between territory and world. Arnolfo

via XX Settembre, 50 0577920549 - arnolfo.com Closed Tuesday and Wednesday Price: 150 euro In the coming months, the brothers Trovato, will give each other a new home, at a stone's throw from the seventeenth-century building that for over twenty years housed what has been a training field for many chefs, and is still a must for any aspiring gourmet. Il Frantoio

via del Castello, 38 0577923652 ilfrantoiorestaurant.com Closed Thursday; open evenings only, except Sundays Price: 45 euro Young staff, in the kitchen and in the dining room, which is an evocative room set up in a 19th century olive mill, minimal equipment and menus with regional accents and various surprises, from homemade spaghetti with rabbit ragout to liver with raspberries, hazelnuts and bitter cocoa. Il Pievano del Castello di Spaltenna

Pieve di Spaltenna via Spaltenna, 13 0577749483 spaltenna.it Always open, evenings only Price: 80 euro In the summer, next to the terrace of this enchanting resort with a view of the "home" vineyards, Vincenzo Guarino (executive chef at Pievano) and Gennaro Nasti (from Paris Bijou) play with "cooked pizza". At the gourmet the story is - fortunately always the same: intuition, ď&#x201A;&#x201E;

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nelloni ricotta and spinach, pappa al pomodoro with buffalo mozzarella, schiaccia flatbread with artisan mortadella from Bologna.

Wine Bar

12 Un Tubo via del Luparello, 2 0577271312 untubo.com Closed Sunday, open evenings only Price: 35 euro One of Italy's most renowned live music clubs, with a fine weekly calendar offering jazz concerts, jam sessions, concerts of local musicians, every day there is something different. But not only. Because the place is housed in the old cellar dug in the tufa stone of the restaurant Le Logge (see above), which is full of prestigious bottles collected by the late Gianni Brunelli, this is a kind of goldmine for wine lovers. So, besides the rest, in this suggestive and eclectic intersection between art and food and wine it's possible to taste excellent wines together with worthy small plate appetizers.

ď&#x201A;&#x201E;

technique and successful risks taken, between tradition and exotic riffs.

with personality and joy. Slender but very well-assembled wine list.

in the globetrotting and territorial cuisine of Juan Camilo Quintero.

Osticcio

Idyllium

via G. Matteotti, 23 0577848056 - osticcio.it Closed Tuesday night and Wednesday Price: 40 euro New life for this historic wine venue. The management is renewed and spaces refreshed (now distributed on three levels with their own vegetable garden), boasting a mighty cellar of all time but supported by the creative and personal cuisine of a young, talented, Albanian chef.

via Gozzante, 67 0578748176 Always open Price: 25 euro A young and aggressive bartender and an expert management that, from Milan, brings contemporary mixology into a Renaissance palazzo: an unusual mix in the heart of the Val d'Orcia, between twists on classics and cockatails made with wild herbs. Incoming surprises also on the food front.

Al 43 della Locanda dell'Artista

Osteria Volpaia

Futura Osteria

Volpaia v.lo della Torre, 2 0577738066 osteriavolpaia.it Closed Thursday at lunch, and Wednesdays Price: 50 euro Castle, Shop, Osteria. And now also bakery. With the signature of Volpaia, the renowned Chianti winery that has invested with intelligence also in fine dining, comes a "rural community" that has its spearhead

loc. Abbadia Isola, 7 0577301240 futuraosteria.it Closed Monday and Tuesday; 1 July/ 1 October on Tuesday Price: 35 euro An ancient abbey of the year 1000 and a faithful interpretation of the typical recipe book. Hence short supply chain (with vegetables from the family garden) and recreation of ancient dishes, elaborated

loc. Canonica Lucignano 43 0577955025 locandadellartista.com Closed Monday Price: 75 euro A film producer and a fashion professional fell in love with an old farmhouse and made it into a boutique hotel. Seven years later (2018) comes the talent of Maurizio Bardotti, and with him the gourmet turnaround. The beginnings are already quite promising. Cum Quibus

via San Martino, 17 0577943199 - cumquibus.it Closed Tuesday Price: 70 euro Studeid as a surveyor and born in 1984, Alberto Sparacino is another cultured voice of this village kissed by the gods of fine dining. He gambles, experiments and plays, with determination as a professional. And he always hits the nail in the head.

THE PAN DI SIENA CAKES Panforte: medieval origins, and its birth is lost in legend. Originally prepared in abbeys, which had Asian spices and dried fruits available, panforte is a flat and round confection topped with sugar wafer, and made with - according to different traditions - honey, sugar, raw sugar, flour, walnuts, mountain hazelnuts, almonds, dried figs, black melon (or popone, grown in the Rosia plain), citron, candied lemon and oranges, coriander, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, aromatic pepper. It is generally cooked in a wood oven and today is considered a Christmas specialty. Panforte with chocolate or "of the ladies": among its elements it counts the

food of the gods, added by Giovanni Parenti (founder of the first production factory) in the first half of 1800, made into a rich sweet loved by the nobles. Panforte fiorito: commonly eaten during the Easter period, this type was created around 1900, and differs for floral

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decorations made with icing sugar. Pan co' Santi: typical of the period of All Saints Day, also called "pan dei santi" or "pan dei morti", is made with a mixture of water, flour, extra virgin olive oil, sugar and yeast, to which are then added raisins, walnuts and pepper. Baked in the oven, and sometimes paired with meat dishes. Its origins are attributed to the Nicchio contrada. Panforte bianco or Margherita: a variant bestowed to Margherita of Savoy during the Palio of 1879, gentler with the spice element (without pepper) and dusted with powdered sugar and made without candied melon. Panpepato or pampepato: variation of panforte covered with spices.

CITY GUIDE

Cocktail bar

13 The Way p.zza Logge del Papa, 11 3663696911 Closed Sunday at lunch Price: 25 euro Relatively new lounge bar that has quickly gained a large group of fans. Open from early morning to night, starting in May 2018 there is also a very respectable restaurant, but the real party starts from sunset onwards––live music evenings, a full calendar of events, myriad bottles in sight behind the counter, the skill of the bartenders, mixing up classics, signature drinks and impromptu creations, the beautiful ambiance––all contribute to making the people of the night very happy. Fine staff which is young and motivated.

jacent laboratory: bread, schiacciate flatbreads, cakes and pies (like the one typical of Amiata, with almonds and cherries, and the Polendina with chestnut flour). Also worthy of note are the savory preparations.

15 Nannini

Sweet interludes

via Banchi di Sopra, 24 0577236009 pasticcerienannini.it Always open A symbol of the city that boasts a well-kept environment and high quality standards. Ideal place at all hours, from breakfast (with coffee of the namesake roast and pastries of various kinds) to a savory break at any time of day, by way of ninature pastries, eclairs, peaches of Prato, rice puddings plus gelato and other local specialties. The highlight, however, is the aperitif, thanks to the venue's central position. Also wine shop and wine bar.

Coffee & Bar

Gelateria

14 Corsini

16 La Vecchia Latteria

via A. Diaz, 4/14 0577221881 corsinibiscotti.com Always open, in summer closed Sunday afternoon The history of the Corsini family started almost a century ago (in 1921), in Castel del Piano, on the Amiata, with a wood-burning oven baking bread and biscuits. Over the years it became a business capable of intelligently manage large distribution and loyalty to its artisanal production. In the town's sales point, not far from the center, the classic house specials, hailing directly from the Amiata factory, as well as the freshly baked goods prepared daily in the ad-

via San Pietro, 10 3474746448 Always open A small shop in the center that does not yield to the sirens of easy money. Here the gelato is made with attention, from the ingredients, to mixing, to storage. The range is limited, because the space is but also because the product is always fresh and freshly made (in the open laboratory). In addition to the tasty classics, creativity abounds and the seasons give rhythm to the flavour assortment: Fantasia del bosco (vanilla, strawberries and nuts), Cremino, Rumba (rum, hazelnut and Nutella), a fun Colomba flavour (at Easter), and

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the specialty gets its name from the storefront. Also try their yogurt and fruit flavors.

with dark chocolate and ginger). Good quality coffee and savoury offer; courteous service.

Bakery

Tasty shopping

17 Buti

Meats

v.le V. Emanuele, 53 057740464 pasticceriabuti.it Closed Monday In 2018 this historic pastry shop turned 60 and was given a total restyling and a collaboration with another artisan celebrity of the city, Fiorella roasting (see below). The restaurant is modern, the staff is motivated, the offer includes an assortment that combines the great classics of the Sienese tradition with more original creations, wedding cakes, croissants and stuffed savory focaccias made with ancient grains and much more. Don't miss the Caramellato, which is the house specialty.

18 Peccati di Gola via E. S. Piccolomini, 43 0577283155 pasticceriapeccatidigola.it Closed Sunday afternoon Between tradition and innovative ideas, this place is a solid and reliable reality, thanks also to the careful management of the Betti family. The name is not a lie, you are precisely in a kingdom of real gourmands. The in-house laboratory produces valid classical proposals (worthy of tasting, in the fall, is Pan co' santi) but also more original creations (for example the éclair with brittle and French Chantilly, or the ricciarelli mousse made with Tahiti vanilla and orange juice). The same applies to holiday sweets (such as for example, panettone

JULY-AUGUST 2018

19 La Macelleria di Alessio e Riccardo via Aretina, 10 0577222743 la-macelleria.com Closed Monday and Wednesday afternoon and Sunday all day Out of Porta Pispini, the new retail generation selling meat cuts hailing from a short and certified supply chain, from "ethical" breeding and livestock raised with a natural diet and slaughtered in compliance with all procedures. Beef, chicken and pork, therefore, all of traceable and genuine origin, but also a series of dishes prepared well, like the house roast or the inviting stuffed aubergines, also made to order.

Delicatessen

20 Alleanza via Camollia, 192 057747406 alleanzasiena.it Closed Sunday Historical name and wellstocked retail point where availability and professionals staff make the difference. For food shopping or an impromptu snack there is no shortage of excellent cured meats, including homemade rigatino and capocollo, young and aged Tuscan pecorino, French salted butter, cheeses from all over Italy. There are also ready-made meals, sauces and condiments.

FULL-COURT SIENA

21 Consorzio Agrario Provinciale Siena via Pianigiani, 5/9 0577 2301 - capsi.it Always open Sale of excellence of the area, located in the center, with a colorful and articulated showcase of local artisans: meat from local farms (Chianina and Cinta Senese) and an assorted selection of cheeses, cured meats and salami (primarily finocchiona and wild boar sausage). In addition, Tuscan wines, fresh pasta, olive oil, fruit and vegetables, ready-made meals, baked goods and sweets (for example in Menchetti corner, see list).

Tea & Roaster

22 Morbidi via Banchi di Sopra, 75 0577280268 - morbidi.com Closed Sunday This is a name that the locals are very fond of. The place has been in business for almost a century, and has always been a point of reference for quality purchases: cured meats and cheeses (also of their own production) plus a nice assortment of food specialties. Today, however, the venue is also a popular gathering place - on three levels - for lunch, snacks, aperitivo (on weekends, when it closes at 9.30 pm), with a rich buffet, wines and cocktails.

23 Antica Salumeria Salvini Costafabbri s.s. 73 Ponente, 46 0577394399 anticasalumeria salvini.com Closed Sunday

The platter of cured meats and cheeses is considered one of the best in the city, to be tasted with a good glass of wine. Alternatively there are hot dishes or a sandwich which can be stuffed on the spot. On the other hand in this historic shop - birth year: 1931 - are also available cured meats and sausages, specially handcrafted by the owners, as it once was. Hams, capocollo, salami, but also dairy food specialties for an all-round food shopping spree.

matter of fine chocolates, teas and infusions, some of which of the best brands and of all types, and sweets and candies in general. The coffee beans, or ground powder – which can be purchased by weight – are toasted with wood, and is the main product on offer. Great care is placed in their gift packages.

26 Caffè Fiorella via di Città, 13 0577271255 torrefazionefiorella.it Closed Sunday March 15/September 30 Sunday morning Just beyond Piazza del Campo, is a name that has now earned merit and fame in Siena, arriving in Siena after past experiences in Follonica and Castiglion della Pescaia. Maison brand coffee is available in 100% Arabica, 100% Robusta, in a blend of both varieties and in a decaf version. Purchased or tasted at the moment.

Bread baker

24 Il Magnifico via dei Pellegrini, 27 0577281106 ilmagnifico.siena.it Closed Sunday For some this is where the best pan co' santi (typical of November 1st) is served in the city. The wisdom handed down from father to son is a trademark of this workshop, where for years all the Sienese specialties have been adequately represented. There's also excellent breads, from the traditional unsalted Tuscan kind, to the naturally leavened type, to more modern variants such as loaves seasoned with turmeric and poppy seeds.

27 Premiata Torrefazione Senese Isola d'Arbia via Mengozzi, 30 0577385690 torrefazionesenese.it

Tea & Roaster

Where to stay in Siena

28 Numero 12 La Lizza, 12 3928295634 numero12appartamenti vacanzesiena.it A series of design apartments located in strategic areas of the city and ideal for every need, from business to leisure, catering to couples or families. Each is equipped with all the most modern comforts and amenities, and at guests' disposal are also several additional services, such as baby sitting (by reservation) and assistance for tours and ticket purchases.

Almost all the entries of this "mini-guide" are taken from our guides: Restaurants, Bars, Patisseries, Gelaterias, Pizzerias. The guides are on sale at newsstands and in bookshops; some are available as Apps. Inside you will find more details in addition to what's published in these pages ( for example the famous score system of the Gambero Rosso for restaurants). To find out more... buy the guides!

25 La Boutique del Caffè via Cecco Angiolieri, 21 0577271367 - laboutique delcaffesiena.it Closed Sunday Business with thirty years experience, coming from another historic roaster of Montepulciano, and today one of the most well-stocked corners in

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Closed Saturday and Sunday Today Leonardo Montanari carries on the good name of this historic barley roaster (the barley of Siena, available ground, in grain or soluble), located now in the industrial area. The brand has existed for decades and has gone through different managements before arriving at the last, without ever losing sight of the control of the entire supply chain, from crop to harvest, craftsmanship, wood toasting. Now there is also coffee, made from precious blends.

 In collaboration with: Alberto Lorenzini Map by Alessandro Naldi

JULY-AUGUST 2018

GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Maria Victoria Santiago CONTRIBUTORS Stefania Annese, Giuseppe Carrus, Francesca Ciancio, Anna Gennari, Gianni Fabrizio, Emiliano Gucci, Simone Lacania, Alberto Lorenzini, Valentina Marino, Caludio Mazzoni, Pier Meurling, Alberto Lorenzini, Antonella Millarte, Simona Natale, Daniele Pitteri, William Pregentelli, Lorenzo Ruggeri, Loredana Sottile, Maria Teresa Varvaglione PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Roberto Merlo (cover), Pietro Amandolara, Adriano Antolelli, Alessandro Naldi

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GAMBERO ROSSO is a Registered Trademark used under license by GR USA CORP Copyright by GAMBERO ROSSO S.P.A. 2018. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. GR USA CORP is not responsible for loss, damage, or any other injury as to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork or any other unsolicited materials. July-August 2018