Wine Travel Food June 2017 by Gambero Rosso

www.gamberorosso.it YEAR 21 N. 108 - JUNE 2017

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

• MOSEL NEW RELEASE • TRAVEL ZURICH DADA & FOOD • PALERMO THE RENAISSANCE OF CUCINA D’AUTORE

BEYOND

Passerini Restaurant, Paris

Fine Dining

a tavola

WINE 24 | Mosel. The sweet Germany of Riesling The most renowned and prestigious grapegrowing area of Germany lies between Trier and Koblenz along the sinuous banks of the Mosel and its two principal tributaries, Ruwer and Saar. We tried the most recent vintages and some old ones from the most interesting wineries in the territory.

TRAVEL 34 | Zurich. Dada & food creative chef Art, culture, culinary tradition: the economic heart of Switzerland is one of Europe’s most avant-garde cities, and that includes their fine dining locales. In September, with the second edition of Food Zürich, the Swiss capital will show off its tastier side. Here’s an itinerary to help find the best eating all year long.

June 2017 2 JUNE 2017

“Wine is at times a staircase to dreaming” Antonio Machado (Poet and writer | 1875-1939)

42 | Palermo. The renaissance of cucina d’autore

NEWS & MORE

Don’t believe the Palermitani who tell you that nothing interesting is happening in their city. Palermo, for those who live there, is often obvious, taken for granted. But recently, it’s been doing its best to show its brighter side, the one that is livelier and deeper from a cultural and culinary point of view. It’s an ideal destination for an early summer trip.

WINE 22 | Giovanni Passerini. The Italian who bewitched Paris Contemporary Italian cucina: straightforward, inspired, elegant. A cuisine of research and method, an experience that’s worth the trip. 53| The garden and wine of Borgo Felice Love for Tuscany, for the Chianti zone, and above all for the community vegetable garden of Borgo San Felice - these are the building blocks of Fabrizio Borraccino’s cucina. He has worked with great French chefs and alongside Antonio Guida and Gordon Ramsey. Wine is everywhere - in sauces, in marinades, and, of course, in glasses. 3 JUNE 2017

EDITORIAL

NATURAL WINES

n e p o e d i w s e Ey When I crossed the threshold of Gambero Rosso for the first time nine years ago, I was considered an anarchist bearing a wine glass. I was the youngest taster in the group, I drank natural wine almost exclusively, and my eyes lit up when macerated whites turned up. If a cloudy wine appeared, one outside the norm, it inevitably found its way to my desk. That sensibility has stayed with me, although my knowledge has certainly deepened. First, I learned to taste blind. Inevitably, I often found that after working through almost 6,000 wines a year and meetings with enologists and journalists from around the world, I had to reassess wineries that had been darlings in my personal enological geography. Many of my colleagues didn’t agree with me, and I listened carefully. At the same time, journalists who at first tore apart wines that were different often changed their minds. I later saw them praise the same wines they had ridiculed. In many cases, they just adapted to the mood of the times. Others refined their palates along new parameters – perhaps so as not to be considered wine dinosaurs, eternally enamored with wines that could be cut with a knife, so voguish in the 1990s. Change came also from Wine Spectator, which praised the orange wines of La Stoppa. Gambero Rosso itself bestowed many unusual Tre Bicchieri awards. The natural movement brought enthusiasm, a vital element in a wine world that is always serious and inward-directed, a quality more necessary than good mozzarella on a

pizza Margherita. The movement even questioned language, because natural wine has a quite precise generational connotation. Above all, it pushed the large wineries to reconsider their own positions. In a few years, the changing game influenced wines all over the world and, in the end, it has had an overwhelming effect. But now we are in phase two of the phenomenon. If you travel around Copenhagen, Sydney, Tokyo or Paris, the independent wine bars and bistros seem to be always offering the same natural wines, the same labels. That effervescent curiosity has disappeared. Empty bottles of the Ganevat and Overnoy divinities are on show, as are the macerated wines of Friuli consecrated by Gravner, and so on. Dogma is the rule. Outsiders are heretics. Last Sunday I found myself in Bordeaux tasting with Michel Rolland, a devilish enologist, the most famous and widely criticized in the world. He wanted to taste everything in the room, from Lambrusco di Sorbara to Grignolino, and his comments were pointed and scornful. I had the clear impression that he was tired of the wines he’d been making for years. He had been listening and absorbing carefully what was going on in the world of wine. That’s what I hope for from all producers and consumers of natural wine. Be open to discussion and come out of the cages in which you are shutting yourselves. Lorenzo Ruggeri 4

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Vini d’Italia worldtour 2017/2018 2017 OCTOBER 25 SEOUL - Korea

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

OSAKA - Japan

WARSAW - Poland

TOKYO - Japan

NOVEMBER Top Italian Wines Roadshow

03 06

TAIPEI - Taiwan BEIJING - China

Gambero Rosso Wine & Food Experience

HONG KONG - China

trebicchieri

SHANGHAI - China

Gambero Rosso Wine & Food Experience

MOSCOW - Russia

trebicchieri Wine & Food Experience

Top Italian Wines Roadshow trebicchieri Wine & Food Experience trebicchieri - HKTDC Special

2018 JANUARY 16 STOCKHOLM - Sweden 18 COPENHAGEN - Denmark 22

BERLIN - Germany

MUNICH - Germany

trebicchieri Gambero Rosso Wine & Food Experience Gambero Rosso Wine & Food Experience trebicchieri

APRIL 05 SãO PAULO – Brazil 09 HOUSTON - Usa 25 DUBAI - EAU

MAY 07 ZüRICH - Switzerland FEBRUARY 01

MIAMI - Usa

Gambero Rosso Wine & Food Experience

06 08 13 15

CHICAGO - Usa NEW YORK - Usa SAN FRANCISCO - Usa LOS ANGELES - Usa

trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri

MARCH 01 LONDON – U.K. 17 DüSSELDORF - Germany

trebicchieri trebicchieri PROWEIN Special

22 24

SINGAPORE - Singapore BANGKOK - Thailand

JUNE 04 SEATTLE - Usa 06 VANCOUVER - Canada 08 TORONTO - Canada

Top Italian Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Roadshow Notte Italiana Wine & Food Experience

Gambero Rosso Wine & Food Experience Top Italian Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Roadshow

Top Italian Wines Roadshow trebicchieri trebicchieri Wine & Food Experience

NEWS FROM AROUND WINE AND THE ECONOMY WORLD

A GLOBAL FALL IN ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION SPEEDS UP IN 2016: -1.3% ACCORDING TO IWSR. WINE STAYS STABLE. BUT FOR 2021, THE MARKET IS DESTINED TO GROW

The world suddenly drank fewer alcoholic beverages in 2016. The experts at IWSR, the British market analysis institute, published data showing a 1.3% overall drop, compared to an average 0.3% drop in the five preceding years. The accelerated decrease can be explained by reductions in beer, cider and mixed drink consumption. Wine, however, is stable. In detail, cider

showed a -1.5% change in 2016 after some years of solid growth. According to IWSR, this backsliding is attributable to South Africa and the United States, where a change of -15.2% followed years of double-digit growth. For beer, the market lost 1.8% in 2016, compared to an average decrease in the preceding five years of .6%. The countries that defied the trend were China, Brazil and Russia respectively, with -4.2%, -5.3% and -7.8% decreases, much more than the slide in the earlier five years. The spirits sector, instead, showed an increase of .3%, conditioned by a notable fall in vodka (-4.3% in one year), which lost more than 9.3% in its most important market, Russia. On

the positive side, growth was seen in gin consumption (+3.7%), tequila (+5.2%) and whisky (+1.7%). The United States, China and Mexico are the three countries in which consumption grew the most. And how was 2016 for wine, according to ISWR? A -0.1% change shows general stability, thanks to the sparkling sector which in 2016 increased consumption by 1.8% while still wines lost 0.5%. But although 2016 was particularly difficult, the IWSR predictions for 2021 are much rosier and show more plus signs, with global consumption of alcoholic beverages estimated to grow 0.8%. The elements that contribute to this expansion phase are as follows: whisky consumption is predicted to grow 650 million liters within 2021; mixed drinks will increase more than 400 million liters in 5 years; bubbly wines will sell 200 million liters more, and beer consumption will also grow, above all in Asia and in the sub-Sahara zones of Africa.

EXPORT. THE TRIMESTER OUTSIDE THE EU POSITIVE FOR ITALY. FRANCE GAINS IN THE USA The first trimester of 2017 was positive for Italian exports out of the European Union, with +6.3% registered from January to March. Italy was in the norm of world trade, which showed +6.1%, and showed greater growth than its principal competitor, France (+3.9%). Chile, however, jumped 17.8% in three months and is now ahead of Spain in terms of the value of its exports. In its principal market, the USA, Italy increased sales compared to the first trimester of 2016 (+4.3%), but grew considerably less than France, which showed +18%, reaching 360 million euros, coming close to Italy’s 380.6 million euros. Two large buyers of Italian wine, Canada and Switzerland, showed, respectively changes of +7.7% and +4.6%. Wine sales in China were particular-

ly positive, with purchases up 1.3%. Italy did well in China, as Osservatorio Paese Terzi of Business Strategies noted, enjoying an increase of 15.9%. “We note more than one indication that a change of course in our favor is on the way,” said the CEO of Business Strategies, Silvana Ballotta. Another country in ferment seems to be Russia. Customs data, the Osservatorio said, showed growth of 53.6%, for a value of 44.7 million euros. As far as wine categories go, sparkling wines grew 11.7%, especially in Hong Kong, Brazil and Russia, with increments between 40% and 55%. Bottled reds (+6.4% on the average) grew in Russia (+53.1%), Hong Kong (+50.9%), China (+18.6%) and Brazil (+31.5%). 6

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GREAT BRITAIN. THE BREXIT EFFECT. WINE PRICES HAVE NEVER BEEN SO HIGH The Wine and Spirit Trade Association has no doubts. In Great Britain, Brexit is pushing wine prices up. In the latest report published, the average price of a bottle of wine has increased more in the first three months of 2017 than in the last two years, an increment of 3% in 12 weeks. In the two years of 20152017, the increment was barely 1.1%. The average now is 5.56£ per bottle. But the worst is yet to come, since the figures do not take into account a rise in alcohol duty (2.9%) announced recently, adding 8 pence to the cost of an average bottle, in line with inflation. The combined effect of Brexit, taxes and weak sterling will inevitably lead to further price increases, now called the “Triple Whammy”. Miles Beale, WSTA chief executive commented, “Unfortunately, for both British businesses and consumers, we are clear that this is not a one-off adjustment, but rather that wine prices will continue to rise. We all know that Brexit will be complicated, but something has got to give and Government must start showing its support for

the UK wine industry and the 275,000 jobs that our industry supports by tackling our excessive duty rates at the Autumn Budget.” Consider that 2.16£ of each bottle are destined purely for wine duty, which for sparkling wine becomes 2.77£. The sector provides the English treasury with 9.5 billion pounds sterling per year, more than any other category of alcohol.

WORLD TRADE. UPSWING IN DEMAND FOR WINE IN RUSSIA, DROP IN THE UK. ITALY DOING WELL, BUT SPARKLING WINES SLOWING. THE DATA FROM THE FIRST TRIMESTER OF 2017 The American, Russian and Chinese demand for foreign wine is rising, but imports to Great Britain are shrinking. This is the picture of world trade taken by IHS/ GTA and elaborated by ISMEA for the first trimester of 2017. In detail, Russia’s imports grew 39% in volume and 62% in value, with Italy performing best among wine providers: up 50% in volume and 54% in value. Spain, the top exporter in terms of volume, is sta-

ble. The situation in the USA is different. The demand for wine grew 11% in volume and 10% in value overall, but the best performances were from France and Australia. Italian wine registered +4% in volume and +5% in value, but that was a smaller increase than last year. Once again, sparkling wine showed the best results, increasing sales by 10%, compared to 2% for bottled wines. In China, where the increase in demand is up 9% in volume and 2% in value, Italy is more or less stable. The United Kingdom is on the downswing, with the first trimester registering a 6% decrease in volume and -3% in value. Demand is down in all sectors, and seems to have battered the major providers, except for New Zealand. Looking at exports from single countries, the most brilliant are 7 JUNE 2017

from France (+6% in volume and +15% in value) and from Southern Hemisphere countries, with the exception of Argentina. whose dip in volume is 16%. The United States is in a down phase, in line with 2016. Spain has seen its exports shrink 1% in volume, but with income up 9%. Italy began the year well. In January and February, the country exported almost three million hectolitres of wine and spumanti, +4% on an annual basis. The same percentage variation is seen in income, which reached 787 million euros. If spumante continues its expansion, its growth (+4% in volume and +8% in value) is a little slower than in former years. Overall, 2016, closed with a slight fall in world trade in quantity, but an increase in value (see the chart below)

NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

FIGHTING FOOD WASTE. NEW YORK MAKES CLEAN ENERGY FROM LEFTOVERS As the commitment to environmental sustainability becomes urgent, food habits and customs are changing. New approaches to fighting waste continually emerge. In Milan, groups have formed to collect extra food that would otherwise be discarded. Ciessevi (Centro Servizi per il Volontariato della Città Metropolitana di Milano – Milano Volunteers Center) and the Milan Center for Food Law and Policy have banded together to concentrate on small wholesalers who want to contribute to the cause. These are put in touch with associations that are dedicated to bringing fresh, good quality food to needy families (11,000 families in Milano are in difficulty). Berlin, a city long-accustomed to dealing with food waste, has launched SirPlus, an outlet that sells expired but still edible food items, a German variation on an approach already active in various cities of northern Europe. At SirPlus, food past its expiration date that must be discarded by supermarkets is sold at 70% below market price. An app allows consumers to order available products and receive home delivery within 24 hours. In New York, food waste is handled in a different, but equally valid and innovative manner. The city produces 14 mil-

lion tons of garbage every year. In 2013, the then-Mayor Michael Bloomberg saw the fight against food waste as the frontier of recycling. The idea was picked up by the present mayor, Bill de Blasio. In recent months he has been perfecting and expanding an efficient and systematic collection of organic refuse, already operative in many areas of the city, following the model of smaller cities such as San Francisco and Seattle. The challenge will be at the second phase, when the discarded food is recycled. Private firms that work with compost are working to produce clean energy from this refuse, using anaerobic microorganisms that transform the garbage into biogas. That gas can then be used as fuel for vehicles or channeled into natural gas systems. Experimentation began in 2012, and within 2018, a small pilot group of consumers will be using the biogas produced at Brooklyn’s Newton Wastewater Treatment Plant.

BARR TAKES NOMA’S PLACE. THE NEW CONVIVIAL COPENHAGEN KITCHEN OF REDZEPI AND SCHMIDT been planning the project for over a year), their intention is to allow the culinary traditions of the North Sea, from Scandinavia to Benelux to Great Britain, to have their say. The approach will be a menu that celebrates sharing and conviviality. The restaurant’s name is inspired by an ancient Irish word for harvest, as well as by a forgotten Scandinavian word used for barley, the principle ingredient in beer production. Barr’s focus will be on the traditional cooking of the colder countries as well as on beer, with foods ranging from Danish meatballs to meat cutlets, carefully prepared to showcase family recipes. “Welcoming, comfortable and delicious” are the adjectives that describe a place that “you’ll want to visit often with friends and family.” Redzepi and Schmidt’s past will certainly influence their experimental approach to the most typical and ancient foods of their zone, and pairings with a wide selection of beers and spirits will be a major element. Open for dinner as well as lunch on the weekend, Barr will welcome 60 at its tables and about 30 more at its counter.

“Dear friends, we have been talking with René for years about creating a new restaurant format in Copenhagen. We were looking for the perfect space and we finally found it in Noma, on the seafront that is the city’s symbol.” The writer is Thorsten Schmidt, René Redzepi’s new business partner. And just where we celebrated the last act of the Noma we knew a few months ago, Barr will open its doors. In only a few weeks – the opening is set for July 5 – we will be able to sit at the tables of what will “not be the umpteenth Nordic restaurant.” René’s colleague and friend, Thorsten Schmidt, is one of the best known representatives of Danish cooking, chef of Malling & Schmidt in Aarhus, but at Barr (the two have

8 JUNE 2017

MARCO GARFAGNINI IS BACK IN PARIS WITH PIERRE GAGNAIRE. HE WILL OPEN A CREATIVE ITALIAN RESTAURANT He was born 44 years ago in Carrara, but before he left the city, he won his first Michelin star for his cooking at Ninan in 2000. Today Marco Garfagnini has found a second home in France where he is a respected chef, soon to be starring in a new ambitious project. Meanwhile, many awards have come his way, the latest at the beginning of 2017. During the presentation ceremony of the most recent Michelin guide, the Tuscan chef was recognized for his work at the restaurant of the luxurious Chateau de Noirieux in Briollay, in the Loire valley. His victory is a source of pride to all Italians, especially his success in the home of haute cuisine. The latest news still comes from France, although Garfagnini has always openly expressed his desire to return to Italy one day. He has joined forces with one of his first mentors, Pierre Gagnaire. Garfagnini met the French master chef in 1992, just a couple of years after completing his degree in hotel work in the school at Massa. Now, before the end of this year, a new project will find him in a kitchen that will showcase his Tuscan and Italian roots. “Marco comes from a different culture than mine, a universe that

I love, but haven’t had a way to explore fully,” said Gagnaire. “But besides his origins, he has surprising savoir faire.” Marco’s strong points are his spontaneity and his sincerity, according to the partners’ declarations. The first hints indicate that a creative Italian table will be inaugurated during the month of October in Paris. Two options for location are being considered, the seventh or the eighth arrondissement. It’s still not clear whether Marco will have to pass the torch at Briollay. The new Parisian place, according to Pierre Gagnaire, promises its clients “enthusiasm, creativity, kindness and sincerity.” Paris will welcome another talented Italian.

THE COOKING LIBRARY IN SEOUL – WITH CAFÉ, INGREDIENT ROOM AND A TERRACE RESTAURANT sons can try out recipes with the guidance of professional chefs. The terrace holds a pizza oven, a barbecue, and a glass structure that can seat about a dozen guests. On the walls, a selection of aromatic herbs, while seasonal vegetables grow in the roof garden. A kitchen on the ground floor is supervised by Wonjun We, executive chef del Park Hyatt Seoul. Access to the library is limited to holders of the Hyundai Card (and their guests) who can visit a maximum of eight times a month. If you are traveling to Seoul, check out what’s going on at the Cooking Library.

Cooking Library is the sign in golden letters that marks the latest architectural project of Choi Wook for One O One Studio. Here in Seoul, South Korea’s modern capital city, this investment in the potential of culinary culture comes from Hyundai Card. This credit card company has developed a plan in the city that is focused on the value of reading. Four buildings house four thematic libraries, one dedicated to music and the performing arts, another to travel literature. A third is a refuge for lovers of design. The latest addition, on four levels, uses ingenious architecture to favor the exploration of the world of food. Set in a hipster district of Seoul, Gangnam, the library includes a vast collection of books and cookbooks plus a series of services for visitors. Alongside the reading room is a bakery and café, two kitchens equipped for practical lessons, experiential laboratories, and even a greenhouse on the roof, along with Greenhouse, the library restaurant. On the second floor, the library holds 16,000 volumes, almost all in English. In the unusual Ingredient House is a Noah’s Ark of flavors, with hundreds of ingredients from around the world to be examined and sampled. On the third floor is the Recipe Room, where those who are participating in les9

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Cia and Gambero Rosso in Toronto presented rural accommodation and Agrichefs Farm tourism and farm cooks who guarantee biodiversity in cooking were the focus of a recent event promoting Made in Italy internationally.

uthentic Made in Italy food and wines, along with the discovery of rural accommodation in farmhouses and of farm recipes prepared by Agrichefs (farm cooks) were presented to the world. Farm accommodation and farm cooks guarantee biodiversity in cooking and engage in local and proximity farming, in full respect of seasonal products and traditional farming wisdom. They were the protagonists of the international event organized by Gambero Rosso with Cia-Agricoltori Italiani - on June 9 in Toronto and dedicated to connoisseurs, foreign press, opinion leaders and businesses. The initiative aimed at internationally promoting the farm tourism businesses selected by Cia and Tourismo Verde, which guarantee quality and communicate the values of the Italian farming, hospitality and food traditions, also through the realization of local food recipes. In fact, a list of excellent farm tourism structures located in various regions of Italy were provided, together with two cooking shows featuring Agrichefs Lia Galli and Giulio Sparascio: the former prepared “Lia’s Peposo”, a recipe belonging to the Tuscan tradition, while the 10 JUNE 2017

latter cooked the so-called “Sagne torte”, a type of pasta typical of the Apulia region, served with tomato sauce. The opening up of new markets is an indispensable priority for the Italian agrifood sector, especially in countries with high per capita wealth. That’s why Gambero Rosso and Cia chose Toronto, as the Free Trade Agreement with Canada (CETA) represents an important resource and opportunity for Made in Italy. Over the last few years, Canadian consumers have shown their appreciation of Italian and European products, which are guaranteed by the world’s highest production standards. About 180 certified quality products have been recognized by CETA, a quarter of which are Made in Italy products. Thanks to this treaty, most Italian PDO and PGI products will enjoy a level of protection that was unknown before. It is a particularly strategic asset for the Italian farming and food sector, which deserves all our efforts and attention so that it can be better positioned on international markets. Just in the last year, exports of Italian farming, food and beverage products to Canada exceeded 640 million euros and, from 2000 to the present, grew by 39%.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil: the real guarantee are the Italian olive growers

he National Consortium of Olive Growers (CNO) after decades of constant work focused on quality and enhancement of the best Italian extra virgin olive oils can now count on a capillary production system having a critical mass in terms of production volume and capacity as well as the ability to supply national, European and international markets. The roots that bind the CNO in the territories are well anchored thanks to 140,000 member farmers that share the Consortium’s guidelines and strategies. Associated farms are located in all Italian olive-growing regions, and this makes it possible to offer to the markets a wide range of product characteristics, colourful flavours and evocative impressions. Individual producers are associated in local organizations and cooperatives that play a key role in assisting their members in terms of quality improvement, economic aggregation of production and product marketing.

The CNO’s system, therefore, operates at various levels along the chain of value from agricultural production to oil extraction, bottling and marketing, making use of trade brands that have in time acquired a reputation and a solid image in the eyes of both end-users and commercial intermediaries. There is a story behind each and every bottle of extra virgin olive oil that the CNO’s system puts on the market, along with a tradition full of values and meanings and the effort of so many men and women who share CNO’s philosophy of production based on excellence and quality. The whole chain of production is kept under control by CNO’s experts, and this to provide the end consumer with all the guarantees in terms of healthiness, origin, quality and authenticity of the product. In just few words, the CNO’s system is now able to supply consumers around the world with “Made in Italy” extra virgin olive oil as a result of a skilful combination of tradition, territory and innovation. 11 JUNE 2017

EVENTS ABROAD

ROMAN WINE PLAYS STARRING ROLE IN TORONTO Anna Ciotti, representative of the historic cooperative winery of Marino, Gotto d’Oro, explained the history of the Castelli Romani and the Agro Romano countryside. She described the winery’s new approach, which focuses on two production lines and on the DOC Roma, established in 2011 and updated in 2014. Now there are 10 wineries that respect its regulations. In the DOC Roma Rosso, the starring grape is montepulciano (not less than 50%). In the DOC Roma Bianco, the principal variety is malvasia puntinata along with other varieties authorized by the rules of 2011 and 2014. The borders of the DOC take in the entire province of Rome, with a small portion that reaches inside the ring road, the Grande Raccordo Anulare. It is truly a Roman wine.

tasting with an historic flavor took the stage in Toronto on June 9, 2017. The seminar title: All Roads Lead to Rome. The tasting followed the ancient consular roads, initially built by the Romans to move their troops around the empire. Later, the roads became commercial routes, often used for transporting wine. Wine was a key element at all levels of Roman society, from soldiers and slaves to the emperor. Bacchus’ nectar was already considered a democratic drink. Safer than water, it lifted spirits and could also be used as a painkiller, even as an anesthetic during surgery. Studies prove that per capita consumption of wine during the golden age of Roman viticulture, the second century B.C., was as much as a liter per day. Crus, such as Falernum, had already been recognized in zones particularly suited for wine grapes.

The Gotto d’oro Mitreo line was also featured in the tasting: lower yields, grapes grown in volcanic and tufaceous soil in hillside zones at altitudes between 250 and 350 meters, located southwest of Rome. Besides the seminar, the Marino winery, with 210 members and 1,300 hectares of vineyard, set up a dedicated corner for the entire day of tasting.

The tasting in Toronto began with the Via Appia, in the Benevento province, then moved on to pecorino from the Marche on the Via Salaria, named for its role in transporting salt. Then came the Via Emilia and sangiovese, the Via Francigena, which passes through Montalcino and sangiovese grosso, and the Via Cassia, which cuts through Chianti Classico. The Via Troiana reaches the province of Bari and its Primitivo. The tasting then returned to the Via Appia, at the gates of the Eternal City, Rome.

Gotto d’Oro - Cipelli, wine agent

12 JUNE 2017

A guide to the leAding 850 compAnies producing foodstuffs in itAly

An indispensable tool for foodies but even more so for industry insiders promoting the best of Made-in-Italy worldwide

www.gamberorosso.it

EVENTS ABROAD

by by Lorenzo Lorenzo Ruggeri Ruggeriri

ITALIAN FEVER IN BORDEAUX Ruggeri and Marco Sabellico told the story of Italian viticulture through nine wines, nine central themes, ranging from the super velocity of Prosecco to the other face of Primitivo. “These are the whites that we expect from Italy, full of character and pure elegance,” commented Swedish Master of Wine, Madeleine Stenwreth, at the tasting of Verdicchio from the Tenuta di Tavignano. Brazilian journalist Jorge Lucki was bewitched by the Pigato from Bio Vio. “These wines don’t make it to Brazil, but it is only a question of time. It is intense and saline – a pearl.” A few hours later, a unique guided tasting aimed to overturn the view of the longevity of Italian sparkling wines. Mattia Vezzola, enologist at Bellavista, took sixty world experts on a tour of the world of Franciacorta, a journey among old vintages and large formats. The end point was the latest project, the Meraviglioso cuvée, produced only in magnums. “Coming here to stand before an audience of this kind is an honor. The tasting was designed to show the differences among the formats, and the tasters realized that. We have been doing this work since 1987. As the size of the bottles grew, little by little, the speed of the wine’s aging slowed. We saw that in the nine-liter bottle of Vittorio Moretti 2008. All this experience flowed into Meraviglioso. It represents the six most prestigious vintages of the last 25 years, from 1984 to 2002, a symphony of 300 vineyards. There’s nothing like it in the world,” Mattia Vezzola explained with pride. The tasting began with a comparison of the magnum-jeroboam of Vittorio Moretti 2002, a vintage in simply extraordinary shape, then moved on to the magnum-salmanazar of Vittorio Moretti 2008, before closing with Meraviglioso.

he nineteenth edition of Vinexpo was also memorable for the heat wave that enveloped it. Bordeaux closed the season of international fairs hosting, for the first time, the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri event, the last stop on a long cycle of tastings. The tour had started in Seoul at the end of October, 2016. Two thousand three hundred exhibitors came to the banks of the Garonne from forty countries, including an unusually massive presence of Italian wineries. From France itself, all the appellations were on hand: French vignerons occupied 47% of the entire exhibition space. While outside the temperature reached 104°F, a dense conference program focused front and center on the impact of climate change on top quality production – a few weeks after Trump tore up the Paris agreements. Hail, drought, temperature swings: the talk was about the importance of scientific research to encourage plant resilience and maintain the vitality of the soil despite weather that was more unpredictable and extreme than ever. The calendar of high-profile tastings during the four days of the fair was full. We’ll start with those that involved us.

SPECIAL AWARDS AND THE CHALLENGE OF FRANCIACORTA The Special Awards from the Vini d’Italia guide played starring roles on June 19, a format that Gambero Rosso had offered in 12 major cities this tour season. Lorenzo

Mattia Vezzola and Marco Sabellico

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TRE BICCHIERI AND BORDEAUX 2016 warmth and maturity of 2009 with the acidity and tannin of 2010. To me, it was superior to the glorious 2005,” said Mathieu Bordes of Chateau Lagrange in Saint-Julien, one of the key producers along with Comtesse Lalande 2016 of Chateau Pichon Longueville, in Pauillac. The prices of 2016 are already ten percent above those of 2015. The tastings confirmed expectations, except for the whites on the scene. All in all, these were four intense days, with some traffic problems that we have learned are not unique to Vinitaly. The hot weather showed that the next edition, the twentieth, should be held somewhat earlier. We closed with a last-minute exchange of bottles between Italian and French producers, Primitivo for Sauternes, Barolo for Bordeaux. Then, tutti a casa.

The next day, June 20, the first Tre Bicchieri event in Bordeaux took place. Fifty-five wineries participated and more than 1000 visitors registered. “It is the Gambero’s first time in Bordeaux. We are happy about this collaboration with Vinexpo, which already worked well in Hong Kong and Tokyo. It is an important step forward for the Italian wine sector,” declared Gambero Rosso president, Paolo Cuccia. Among others, noted enologist Michel Rolland planned to taste all the regions present. “I want to deepen my understanding of Italian whites. Their quality is improving a great deal. And with the Tre Bicchieri tasting, I’m always sure of a high standard,” he commented. In the room next to the Tre Bicchieri, the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux presented the 2016 vintage. “The vintage year weather was perfect. The wine combined the 15

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Interview with Guillaume Deglise - CEO Vinexpo for the wine sector. The next edition will be even more important for that region. Tokyo is a fair for the national market, an interesting, attentive one, where Vinexpo can function as a guide. The news for 2018 is that we will be in New York, the most important wine market in the world. Italy and France have been eternal competitors. How did this collaboration develop and what can we do together? Vinexpo is a French company, but Vinexpo works with every country in the world. This year we are celebrating Spain, which is the Country of Honor. Italy had that role in Hong Kong. We want to say to the Italians that you are welcome, that we want to work with and for you, to improve your business in every international market. That’s our mission.

Guillame Deglise and Paolo Cuccia

The wine fair model is changing. What are you working on to adapt the nature of Vinexpo to market challenges?

Among the new ideas this year was Wow, World of Organic Wine. How was it received and what were the key themes in this edition?

Vinexpo now is a fair that sees more business going on than ever. The exhibitors want to find up-market buyers and we are doing everything we can to improve the quality of our participants.

Organic wine was a very important new theme, and met with unexpected success. So we will continue along this path over the next years. We wanted to emphasize Riesling, with many tastings led by Masters of Wine. And then, there was current news: climate change, Asian markets and Brexit. Remember that the United Kingdom is the second market in the world for wine imports.

This year saw a record number of Italian wineries, 225. How do you explain that? It’s very important to us to have many Italian producers show up. This is Bordeaux, the most famous city for wine in the world. They come here to be in the game, to compare the quality and style of wines. Buyers from Asia and America don’t only want Bordeaux wines. They want Italy, too, the second largest country in terms of representation. We are happy to work to increase the Italian presence. We want to work with you and for you.

How does Vinexpo compare to other fairs in the sector? What do the numbers say? Vinexpo is a special fair because it brings together business, conferences and first-class tastings. This is the basis of our success. We are not a fair company. We are an all-around wine and spirits firm. We will continue along this path with more services for our exhibitors. As for numbers, again this year, China is the country with the most visitors to Vinexpo, followed by the United States.

How well did the Vinexpo experience in Asia work? Where will you go next? Hong Kong proved to be the most important fair in Asia 16

JUNE 2017

WINE OF THE MONTH

Chianti Classico 2014 Istine ex-cellar price: 7,00 euros + taxes Italy is a wonderful place because we can still find delicious, original, territorial wines at affordable

by Lorenzo Ruggeriri

LET’S BEGIN WITH CHIANTI CLASSICO, STARTING WITH RADDA

prices. There’s no need to go far, to some unknown zone. There are even bargains in the best-known areas, such as Chianti Classico. The wine of the month takes us to Radda in Chianti, to Angela Fronti, the young founder of an estate which always offers particularly elegant, invigorating wines with a well-focused, highly readable profile. Istine’s ambitious project, which earned it the Upand-Coming Winery award, consists of three separate vineyards. Two are in the Radda subzone and one in Gaiole in Chianti, each with a distinct exposure, altitude and soil composition. All share organic methods and pared-down traditional cellar procedures such as aging in large oak barrels. The Chianti Classico 2014 is simply delicious, with subtle aromas of flowers, small, fragrant forest fruit and a vigorous palate. Not only does it combine complexity and appeal in the flavor, but its aromas are accomplished, crisp and multilayered. 17 JUNE 2017

DO AS SARDINI

PAIRING

drawings by Chiara Buosi

Panadas with artichokes

MINERAL WATER SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

frappato

Spaghetti with sea urchins morellino

verdicchio

NASCO DI CAGLIARI SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

Fregola with clams

18 JUNE 2017

VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA

frappato

SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

THE ANS DO

Culurgiones VERMENTINO DI GALLURA

FSOAVE

frappato

verdicchio

morellino

Malloreddus SCHIAVA

FIANO

CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA

FSOAVE

frappato

morellino

Porceddu CARIGNANO DEL SULCIS SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

frappato

morellino

verdicchio

Seadas

MALVASIA DI BOSA

19 JUNE 2017

verdicchio

DESIGN

by Francesco Seccagno

DESIGNFOOD Objects and tools that lend glamour to a kitchen or work space…essential, geometric, clean forms that follow their function…cups and containers inspired by Asian themes…basic tea towels…classic pitchers revisited with attention to detail that gives them new life in the contemporary kitchen…

Sfrido potato peeler | Alessi | fraz. Crusinallo | Omegna (Vb) | via Privata Alessi, 6 | tel. 0323 868 611 | www.alessi.com Valerio Sommella’s imaginative and practical Sfrido won the Chicago Good Design Award 2016. This potato peeler’s intriguing shape is perfectly suited to its function. The name itself (Italian for scrap) refers to what is left behind when peeling potatoes. Sfrido, made of polished stainless steel, suggests a stylized ribbon gently winding and turning until it encloses the blade. Thanks to the curvature of the handle, the tool can be held in a natural, ergonomic way.

Brocca | Emile Henry | Marcigny | Francia | tel. +33 38 525 5050 | www.emilehenry.com | distribuito da Maino Carlo Srl | T. 02 6686 294 Since 1850, this ceramic factory has been turning out Europe’s best kitchenware and cooking utensils, first as Maison Henry and then, after 1982, as Emile Henry, when it was renamed to honor an ancestor. It is deeply rooted in its home territory of Burgundy, in France. This is a classic pitcher, improved by the small touches that make it more practical and trustworthy. Its size is just under a liter, to make refrigerator storage easier. The lip is carefully designed for better pouring. Its seven colors reflect the French company’s origins: flour, clay, Burgundy, oak, charcoal, flint, blue flame.

20 JUNE 2017

Essential Art | Easy Life - R2S | Ospitaletto (BS) | tel. 030 6850825 |

www.easylifedesign.it

This Lombardy-based firm has been producing technically advanced, inspired resin design tableware for 45 years. Its plates, cups, bowls, trays and more have become canvases for artists and artisans. A world of color, in designs inspired by England and Asia, by romantic flowers and dynamic geometrical shapes, these products bring life and personality to the table. Solid, practical and economical, Easy Life objects are hand-painted.

Canovacci | SM | Torino | via della Consolata | tel. 333 1441 880 | www.sophiemuhlmann.com | debou.it Spicy and jaunty, beneficial to health and beauty, hot red peppers play a starring role in the design collections of artist Sophie Muhlmann. The young Torinese designer is the founder of the brand SM. Swarming over such humble objects as smartphone covers and tea towels (canovacci), her tiny red peppers are humorous, minimalist daily companions. SMâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creations are useful and beautiful, bringing a fresh touch of fashion to home and handbag. Sophie Muhlmann is a featured artist on the international fashion site, Debou, which showcases strikingly original talents in both Italy and abroad.

21 JUNE 2017

GAMBERO ROSSO ON THE ROAD

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

GIOVANNI PASSERINI, THE ITALIAN WHO BEWITCHED PARIS Contemporary Italian cucina: straightforward, inspired, elegant. A cuisine of research and method, an experience that’s worth the trip

“T

he most iconic dish? For me, it’s tripe.” Giovanni Passerini is unique among the Italian chefs whom we have met outside our country. He left his home in Rome ten years ago, and honed his trade between the haute cuisine of Alain Passard (L’Arpege) and the Parisian new bistro spirit, alongside Petter Nilsson (La Gazzetta) and Inaki Aizpitarte (Le Chateaubriand). Then he opened Rino to resounding success. It was a miniscule place that became a pilgrimage destination for many food fans. “I’m only realizing now what hysteria Rino created,” Giovanni told us, one day in Paris with the temperature at 98°F. We were in his new restaurant, Passerini. It has been open for 13 months, in the Bastille neighborhood. Nearby is his fresh pasta shop. His ravioli are sought after by chefs such as Ducasse. “We found a place that had been abandoned for 25 years. My wife and I made the investment on our own, without any help. It was hard. We worked with small-scale

artisans, and we had many technical problems, but now I’m enjoying the results.” We asked, “What kind of restaurant is Passerini?” “My wife, Justine, and I wanted to open a place where we ourselves would have wanted to go for a meal. We decided to get away from a prix fixe menu because many new places have opened following our Rino style. We said to ourselves, ‘Let’s leave the rock’n roll spirit to younger people and let’s offer something else. The French say lache tout, giving it all up.” In this case, Giovanni started from the basics, from simple features, the pleasure of the meal, the sharing of dishes at the table. “My mind is still set in a certain way, but I make an effort to plate foods with a ladle instead of with tweezers, the way I used to. There’s a great demand for straightforward, rustic, simple and genuine cucina, but one that doesn’t give into the tendency towards fats and protein.” We opened the menu, and the first item was Tripe a la romaine. Passerini commented, “Making good tripe 24

JUNE 2017

is a great deal harder than doing spherification. There’s no codified recipe. Consistency, smell and cooking times depend on the individual ingredient, the animal source. Then there are the chefs’ hands, their manual ability, their understanding of when a sauce is ready and it’s time to lower the heat, cover or uncover a pot to achieve that texture, that ideal fragrance and concentration.” We wondered whether in this return to cucina based on a product, there was a risk of simplifying and standardizing too much. “For me, a dish like well-made tripe is equivalent to lièvre à la royale. That hare dish has more steps, but it isn’t more difficult. Our heritage interested me deeply when I decided to open here. Certainly, if I write trippa alla romana in the menu, I had better make it very good. Otherwise, I’d make a brutta figura. In this way, I raise the bar even higher,” he added. From the point of view of Romans crazy about food and restaurants, we told

him we had never tasted better tripe than this: a pungent minty aroma, generous pecorino that gave a rustic yet elegant balance, sublime texture, sauce that was concentrated but not excessively so, and an acidic quality that both cleansed and enlivened the fatty quality. It was an illumination for a Roman in Paris. At home, I had never found tripe of this quality. “The key is not to run an Italian restaurant, but rather a restaurant where we cook Italian cucina, where we maintain the spirit. We do what a good trattoria in Italy would. We seek out farm products, local ones. When I couldn’t find good artichokes, I substituted sunchokes from a producer nearby, in the Ile de France. We discovered that sunchokes and mint is something that the French don’t expect. They loved it, like a classic artichoke with mint in Rome. It’s a territorial choice. It’s a winning choice.” When we paid the bill and left, we had the impression that we had experienced one of the most inspired and modern Italian tables on the scene, a cucina of intuition, research and method where everything is aimed at pleasing the palate, satisfying the belly. There were no frills, but great elegance and precision of flavors. An unforgettable experience.

Passerini| 75012 Paris| 5 Rue Traversière | www.passerini.paris 25 JUNE 2017

Bigoli pasta with mussels and sweet peppers

Granita of melon and apricot, pastry cream, brioche, vanilla whipped cream

Tripe alla Romana

Ricotta and spinach dumplings Dashi of cucumber, rapini, mountain celery

VINO & TERRITORIO

by Massimo Lanza

The most renowned and prestigious grapegrowing area of Germany lies between Trier and Koblenz along the sinuous banks of the Mosel and its two principal tributaries, Ruwer and Saar. We tried the most recent vintages and some old ones in the most interesting wineries in the territory

26 JUNE 2017

l e s o M

THE SWEET GERMANY OF RIESLING

27 JUNE 2017

VINO & TERRITORIO

he Mosel has always had a place in the hearts of expert and passionate wine lovers, both for its quality and the longevity of its Rieslings. After a crisis in the 1980s, the valley is rapidly repositioning itself on the world’s markets. The credit goes to a handful of careful and farsighted producers such as Ernst Loosen, Egon Muller and Markus Molitor, to name only few. At the right moment they knew how to invest both in their wineries, making them more competitive, and in promoting their wines on the great international markets. In this way, they created a virtuous cycle that, in the last decade, has brought German Rieslings impressively back on the scene. Until the 1960s, they had been as expensive and sought after as Bordeaux wine, even in France. We found a region of wildly differing views. Two opposing production philosophies vie for predominance. On one side are producers more committed to traditional vinification. On the other are those that move towards drier wine, even ones with no sugar residue. The same discussion goes for Botrytis – noble rot. Some flee from it and other believe that without its contribution, wines lose in balance and general complexity. Sofia Thanisch is the great-granddaughter of the legendary Katharina who, in 1895, inherited the winery and, although only 29 years old, made it one of the reference points of the entire Mosel valley. Sofia said she normally tried to avoid Botrytis, choosing, when required, the most concentrated berries instead. Markus Molitor also prefers to vinify without Botrytis. “That way the wines better express the intrinsic character of the grape variety, the terroir and the vintage year. It’s very important,” Markus continued, “to do good work in the vineyard. It starts with pruning, which has to be delicate and leave a large leaf wall that defends the grape from both heat and cold.” But Thorsten Melssheimer, a young producer in Reil, said, “It’s complicated to vinify without Botrytis because a mini-

Climate and Vineyard 2015 and 2016, two excellent vintage years In 2016, there were no particular problems of frost in the Mosel, as there were in other parts of Europe. After a spring and early summer of rain and humidity, fine weather finally arrived in August and September, balancing a year that had seemed to be heading for the worst. Even if the harvest was somewhat smaller than that of 2015, the grapes ripened well, maintaining a good degree of acidity. The 2015 vintage can be counted among one of the best in recent years. Although in July and August, temperatures were fairly high, September rain mitigated the effect of the summer heat. October and November were beautiful. The harvest went smoothly and was completed before the winter rains set in. The wines of 2015 display a perfect balance between ripe fruit and acidity, and are destined to evolve extremely well over time.

28 JUNE 2017

Ernst Loosen Riesling and the archeologist Innovation inspired by the past – this is Ernst Loosen’s philosophy. Starting off as an archeology student, he has become Germany’s most famous Riesling producer. Ernst’s first intuition was to increase the size of the winery’s patrimony by buying old vineyards, sometimes a century old, on a vast scale. Among them was one that, in 1908, a venerable document, not official, declared to be a grand cru. In his cellar, adopting the theories of his grandfather who, in the first decades of the 20th century, made only dry wines in Urzig, Loosen began vinifying his riesling grapes by simply leaving them on their skins as long as possible, without doing anything else before bottling. This philosophy led to his latest visionary goal, to produce a Riesling destined to age on its fine lees for 20 years, just as his grandfather had theorized. Loosen’s international success was consolidated over the last decade by two American partnerships, with Chateau Ste. Michelle in the state of Washington and Jay Somers in Oregon. Loosen also purchased the Villa Wolf estate in the Pfalz region of Germany.

29 JUNE 2017

VINO & TERRITORIO

mal percentage develops anyway, even in the best years. To make great wines, the grower has to be in harmony with nature as much as possible. That’s why I am a convinced sustainer of biodynamic farming. It brings out the character of each single variety and helps me find the right style for each wine.” Martin Müllen has another recipe for showcasing his grapes. From his four hectares of Riesling vines, many of them a century old and ungrafted, each year he produces from 25 to 30 different wines. “Only by vinifying vineyard by vineyard,” Martin said, “can you bring out the terroir and show off the peculiarities of the individual crus. In the ungrafted vineyards, for example, spiciness is more evident. Even if the plants are less vigorous, thanks to the superior quality of the grapes, we obtain more elegant and deeper wines.” Since 2005, Olivier Haag has run the winery founded by his father, Fritz. His Reislings have a delicate, elegant character. His wines achieve great longevity and are among the most sought after in region. A convinced proponent of sustainability, he practices ecologically healthy agriculture. “I work the vineyard in an artisanal way. We even do the harvesting by hand. That is the only way,” Olivier believes, “you can have the best possible management of ripening and harvesting times, and thus an overall improvement in grape quality. We intervene as little as possible in the cellar. We let the must ferment spontaneously and without the use of added yeasts.” Clearly, the region is in healthy turmoil and faces problems with finding a specialized work force to manage the zone’s very steep slopes. A slate substrata makes the vineyards even more challenging. Despite conflicting philosophies and production styles, however, the zone seems to have overcome the crisis of the 20th century and is moving together to win back the rightful recognition for a region renowned for its great ageworthy white wines.

Wine and Wineries Reading the labels Classification of German wines is based on the Oechsle (Oe) scale, which measures by how many grams a liter of unfermented grape must exceeds the weight of a liter of water, on the principle that the difference depends on the sugar present in the must. Kabinett: not less than 73° Oe. Spatlese: not less than 85° Oe (from late harvest). Auslese: not less than 90° Oe from hand harvesting of very ripe bunches that may also be affected by Botrytis cinerea. Beerenauslese: not less than 125° Oe from harvests based on selection of grapes (overripe) affected by Botrytis cinerea. Trockenbeerenauslese: not less than 150° Oe, berries (botrytized, dried on the vine or overripe) selected by hand. Eiswein: not less than 125° Oe from harvests carried out at temperatures not over -7° of bunches not affected by Botrytis cinerea. Trocken dry wine with a maximum of 9 grams per liter of residual sugar. Halbtrochen or Feinherb semi-dry wine with a maximum of 18 grams per liter of residual sugar.

30 JUNE 2017

Vineyard classifications from VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter), the association of German quality growers founded in 1910, the oldest in the world. Vdp. Gutswein: indicates vineyards at the base of the production pyramid (they must be estate-owned and respect the rigid protocols of the association). Vdp. Ortswein: village wines from traditional vineyards in specific zones planted with grape varieties typical of the region. Vdp. Erste Lage: esignates first-class vineyards with distinctive characteristics. They provide optimal growing conditions, as evidenced over a long period of time. Vdp. Grosses Lage: the very best vineyards of Germany and the source of the finest wines that reflect site-specific characteristics. Vdp Grosses Gewächs (VDP GG): dry wines obtained from VDP Grosse Lage vineyards. Prädikat: sweet and/or fruity wines from VDP Grosse Lage vineyards. Alte Reben: old vineyards.

An essential book for all who love Italian wine More than 60 experts spent months doing blind tastings in every region of Italy

2400 producers 22000 wines 429 Tre Bicchieri 88 Tre Bicchieri verdi

www.gamberorosso.it

VINO & TERRITORIO

ABTSBERG RIESLING SPATLESE 2014

The grapes for this wine come from a vineyard whose bottles were once reserved exclusively for the Abbot. It is the most important plot belonging to this winery known for the slate blue color of its soil. Generous nose with floral and tropical fruit aromas, fragrances of Mediterranean herbs, sorrel and thyme in particular. The palate is citrusy and slightly saline, balancing sweet and juicy fruit.

BRAUNEBERG JUFFER SONNENUHR RIESLING TROKEN GG 2015

Juffer Sonnenuhr is the most valuable part of the famous Brauneberg vineyard. Intense and persistent, its generous range of fragrances offers mineral notes, spices, evergreen resin, citrus fruit, peach and sweet floral aromas. The approach to the palate is extremely fresh and then opens onto tonic, perfectly ripe fruit. Citrus fruit tones return on a long, dynamic, persistent finish.

32 JUNE 2017

ABTSBERG RIESLING SUPERIOR VDP GROSSE LAGE 2015

Grapes have been growing on the Abtsberg hill for more than 1,000 years, and its 14 hectares of vineyard are noteworthy for steep slopes that reach 70%. The wine is very complex on the nose, where floral, spicy and mineral scents abound along with elegant, fresh minty ones. Fruit then explodes on the palate, enhanced by crystalline acidity that amplifies its persistence in the mouth.

BRAUNEBERGER RIESLING FEINHERB 2015

The term Feinherb is used for demi-sec wines: in this case, residual sugar amounts to 17 grams per liter. The first notes on the nose suggest smoked salt, apricot and loquat. After a few seconds in the glass, nuances of ferns, wild flowers and spices emerge. The fresh, savory flavor demands a next sip.

HERRENBERGER RIESLING SUPERIOR VDP GROSSE LAGE TROCKEN 2015 The of also very

nineteen hectares Herrenberger are characterized by steep slopes while the soil is rich in red slate. Generous and well-articulated, the bouquet ranges from spices to white-fleshed fruit scents, from grapefruit to anise and mineral notes that suggest pumice. In the mouth, a fresh acidic rush reins in pulpy, sweet fully ripe fruit sensations.

BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER SONNENUHR RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL 2015 The balance between 13 grams of acidity, 135 of residual sugar and only 7.5 degrees of alcohol in this wine has something miraculous about it. The nose is superbly elegant, with notes of citron, candied pineapple, aromatic herbs, yellow spices, chamomile and lime flowers. The palate is agile and perfectly balanced, sweet and creamy, energized by a still vibrant acidic backbone that holds it taut through the entire, long, long finish.

SL KABINET TROCKEN 2016

JUFFER KABINET 2016

DOCTOR AUSLESE 2016

BERNKASTELER LAY RIESLING FEINHERB 2014

BERNKASTELER DOCTOR RIESLING KABINETT 2015

BERNKASTELER DOCTOR RIESLING SPATLESE 1997

Thomas Haag can draw on 22 hectares of vineyard spread over 25 kilometers, eight different grand crus in a total of 150 different parcels. This entry level bottle is very pleasant, with lovely mineral tones that resemble flint stone and provide a backdrop to a bouquet rich in floral notes, whitefleshed fruit aromas, citrus fruit and Mediterranean scrub. The palate is very pleasant, elegant and substantial, well balanced between savory and fruity nuances. A fine long finish, fresh and citrusy.

Lay, in ancient Gaelic, means slate, in particular that Bernkasteler Lay, the classic slate blue found in many other vineyards in the Mosel. Fragrant and elegant on the nose, it offers mineral scents, aromas of orange blossom, green tea, citrus fruit, tropical fruit, and light balsamic notes that suggest eucalyptus. It is aromatically welldefined on the palate, in good equilibrium between sweet sensations of fruit and mineral sapidity. On the long finish, a fresh balsamic note peeks out.

Dense and persistent fragrances in a wine that opens on a nose of intense smoky and mineral notes. They slowly leave space for aromas of white flowers, balsam, citrus fruit, a riot of apricot and peach. In the mouth, an energetic acidic thrust is well har monized with clean, round fruit. The finish is long, satisfying and fruity.

Legend tells us that this extremely steep Bernkastel vineyard is called Doctor because in the 14th century the wine from here cured the gravely ill Boemund II, the lord of Trier. Extremely elegant and dense, the bouquet displays jasmine and wisteria, pink peppercorn, hints of smoke, yellow-fleshed fruit and thyme. The balance between almost 70 grams of residual sugar, acidity, and only 8° of alcohol is simply amazing. In the mouth, refined, substantial texture conquers the palate, leaving a long, rich finish of fruity sensations. .

In the first years of the 20th century, Doctor was considered the costliest cru in Germany. At the time, a square meter of land sold for the sum of 100 gold marks, the equivalent today of a million euros per hectare. It is very heterogeneous on the nose, with mineral notes of pencil lead, mock orange blossom, yellow apple, nectarine, blood orange, mango and fresh balsamic nuances of mint. The mouthfeel is velvety and vitalized by savory, fresh acidity with unusual equilibrium that never tires the palate, despite much unresolved sugar.

Delicious, generous and complex on the nose, where only a subtle, gentle vein of hydrocarbon reveals the passage of time. The bouquet offers aromas of citrus fruit, tropical fruit, peach, candied citron, mentholated balsamic notes and aromatic herbs. In the mouth, it is soft but taut at the same time, with a still-vital charge of fresh energy that envelops the fruit, spreading it all over the palate. A very long finish is punctuated by citrus and balsamic notes.

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VINO & TERRITORIO

Weingut Dr. Loosen | St. Johannishof | 54470 Bernkastel | tel. +49 (0)6571 146314 | www.drloosen.de

WEHLENER KLOSTERBERG SPATLESE GRÜNE KAPSEL 2015

BERNKASTELER LAY AUSLESE ** WEISSE KAPSEL 2015

GRAACHER HIMMELREICH GG 2015

URZIGER WURZGARTEN RIESLING TROCKEN GG ALTE REBEN 2015

Markus Molitor’s wines have capsules of three different colors, according to their sweetness (white, green, gold). The green capsule signals semi-dry wines. The approach to the nose suggests justharvested aromatic herbs. Then mineral fragrances begin to emerge, along with tropical fruit, yellow flowers, mandarin oranges and lavender. The mouth opens out agilely and elegantly, thanks also to full, persistent structure that plays counterpoint to still very nervous acidity.

Himmelreich (heaven’s reign) is an ungrafted vineyard planted over 100 years ago in Graach, one of the most beautiful zones of the Mosel. Refined and complex on the nose, it displays nuances of elderberry, gardenia, Mediterranean herbs, yellow-fleshed fruit and citrus fruits. Impressive impact in the mouth, taut and with long aromatic persistence, with lovely citrus fruit sensations that accompany the palate right through to a long, very fresh finish.

34 JUNE 2017

The white capsule identifies dry wines, while the stars (from one to three) indicate the rating Molitor assigns to that specific wine in that vintage year. A wide-ranging olfactory profile includes stony mineral notes, floral nuances, pink grapefruit, yellow apple and tropical fruit. The palate opens up elegantly, well balanced between fruit and sapidity, punctuated by prog ression imposed by a powerful acidic current. A long, spicy finish.

Wurzgarten, or spice garden: the wines that emerge from the red slate of this hundred-year old vineyard are particularly fragrant. This wine too has a wide aromatic spectrum of jasmine, wisteria, mint, yellow spices, mandarin orange, loquat, ripe apricot, and even a delicate note of black currant. In the glass, vibrant acidity never releases its hold on well-ripened fruit, making the wine decidedly pleasant to drink even now.

ZELTINGER SONNENUHR AUSLESE*** WEISSE KAPSEL 2015

This wine captures attention immediately thanks to its brilliant golden highlights, but it definitively conquers thanks to an elegant bouquet of yellow flowers, tropical fruit, saffron, biscotti, anise and medicinal herbs, but also peppery spices that chase each other in a whirl of extraordinarily abundant and persistent olfactory sensations. A substantial and fruity mouth is firmed up by important and still vibrant acidity, while the finish leaves a marked citrus fruit note on the palate.

WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING TROCKEN BEERENAUSLESE 2006

The Trockenbeerenauslese type is very rare in the Loosen maison. The winery produces very few bottles and only in particularly favorable vintage years, on the average, twice a decade. The nose is dense with candied citron, dates, beeswax, lavender, cream, turmeric and other spices, honey. The mouthfeel is creamy but not at all cloying thanks to the tension created by acidity impressive for a meditation wine. The finish is very long, enhanced by fresh citrus and balsamic notes.

Weingut Martin Muellen | Alte Marktstrasse 2 | Traben-Trarbach | tel. +49 (0) 6541 9470 | www.muellen.de

REILER MULLAY HOFBERG RIESLING KABINETT 2015

Records of the Reiler Mullay vineyard date back to 1143 and a donation to the convent of Springierbach. The land is extremely steep and rich in red and grey slate. It has always been famous for the elegance of its wines. This bottle is no exception: mineral, floral, citrus and tropical fruit fragrances open on the palate in perfect equilibrium between fruit and fine acidity that lends vitality, accompanying the palate all the way to a long and juicy finish.

LENTUM 2013

Lentum: this wine is left on its lees for 36 months in 1,000-liter oak barrels. No other type of intervention occurs except for topping up when necessary. The result is a wine of amazing equilibrium, with aromas of yellow-f leshed fruit, clementines and spices. In the mouth it is vibrant, juicy with ripe fruit, fresh tasting and citrusy. It offers admirable sapidity that gives lift and energy to each sip.

KROVER PARADIES TRARBACHER RIESLING HUHNERBERG SPATLESE RIESLING SPATLESE* 2015 Kröver Paradies lies in TROKEN 2015 In Trarbacher Hühnerberg, Martin Muellen owns two hectares in the highest, steepest part of the vineyard. Most are hundredyear-old ungrafted vines. On the nose, floral and fruity notes become ampler and complex; after a while, spicy and balsamic notes appear. The palate is well managed: rich, juicy full of vitality and length with great aromatic persistence. 35 JUNE 2017

the center of a narrow turn of the Mosel between the villages of Kröv and Wolf. Martin Muellen owns three small vineyards totaling a little more than a hectare. The wine is elegant on the nose, with aromas of herbs and wild mountain flowers, but also spices and yellowfleshed fruit, delicately framed by mineral, iron-like sensations. In the mouth, it is fat and structured without losing tension and without slipping into the cloying. It maintains throughout enviable drinkability.

MOLUN 2015

All Melsheimer’s wines are vinified in barrels that are at least 5o years old, where they rest on their fine lees for at least a year. Molun (the ancient name of the Mullay hill) offers the nose intense aromas of nectarine and apricot, peppery spices, gardenia blossoms, and a subtle mineral note that frames the pleasant aromatic spectrum. The palate is fresh, savory, and wellbalanced between acidic tension and structure. The finish alternates between fruit and sapidity.

KROVER STEFFENSBERG SPATLESE RIESLING TROCKEN 2000

Since the Kröver Steffensberg vineyard amounts to little more than 1,000 square meters, they make very few bottles of this wine. On the nose the range of aromas is ample and complex: minerality, tropical fruit, apple, green peppercorns, lemongrass, balsamic and Mediterranean brush notes follow each other in continual evolution. In the mouth, excellent acidity bestows the right energy on the wine to fill the palate well, amplifying an aromatic range that is already noteworthy.

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Loredana Sottile collaborated

Art, culture, culinary tradition: the economic heart of Switzerland is one of Europe’s most avant-garde cities, and that includes their fine dining locales. In September, with the second edition of Food Zurich, the Swiss capital will show off its tastier side. Here’s an itinerary to help find the best eating all year long

36 JUNE 2017

h c i r u Z

DADA & FOOD, CREATIVE CHEFS

Candrian Catering AG

Clouds - the bar

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Frau Gerolds Garten

hose who have the idea that Zurich is a tranquil and static place should ask themselves how one of the most extravagant movements of the 20th century, that is, Dadaism, came to be born here, along the source of the Limmat river. Perhaps it is that duality that generated strong doses of originality and anti-conformism. Here, too, the first museum of digital art in Europe, the MuDa, was inaugurated last year. Creative ferment is found in the culinary field as well. In 1990, the first dark restaurant in the world, Blindekuh opened. The blind and visually impaired serve delicious food to the unlit tables – a total experience with all the other senses predominating over that of sight. Other original ideas born here include Hiltl, the first vegetarian restaurant. Opened at the end of the 19th century, it is still operating, and is mentioned by Guinness World Records. To sample the city’s verve, dive into the heart of Zurich-West. New buildings rise between old constructions, affirming the industrial past of this one-time working class neighborhood. Today art rules here. The Kunsthalle, Zurich’s museum of contemporary art, is surrounded by Switzerland’s most prestigious art galleries. Prime Tower dominates the neighborhood. It is the tallest building in the city. At an altitude of 120 meters above sea level, its Clouds restaurant has a view over the lake and the Alps, and offers cooking inspired by Catalonia and the Mediterranean. At the foot of the Tower is Frau Gerolds Garten, a green oasis in the neighborhood. In cold weather, a charming wooden hut prepares exquisite fondues. Steinfels harks back to the mood of the 1970s, with flavors that range from California to Asia to Mediterranean.

Hiltl Kunsthalle

Under the railroad viaduct is an interesting covered market, the Markthalle. Every day, farmers, bakers and butchers from around the region come to sell their products – a kind of Swiss version of Eataly. Another institution in this urban quarter is Les Halles, an eating place in an ex-Peugeot factory. One of its specialties is fried mussels. Inside, used bicycles are sold, very useful for making your way around this surprising Zurich. Towards the south, following the river, you come to the most luxuri-

ous street in the city. Under Bahnhofstrasse are the caveaus of many world-famous banks. On the surface, besides top name shops, there are other kinds of jewels, such as the chocolates made by Läderach. You can admire the ongoing performance of the chocolatiers inside the shop itself. A few meters from the elegant Bahnhofstrasse, the tone becomes decidedly more rustic, and you might be tempted by Zeughauskeller and such local specialties as Zurich-style stew, wiener schnitzel, sausages or pork roast.

The Lake An open air monument. The final stop on our journey Zurich’s lake is truly an open-air monument. We must stop at Fischers Fritz, a pleasant restaurant – with a camping space – that serves Fischknusperli, crisp fish that come directly from lake to plate.True kilometer zero! The stroll, though, can continue along the lake for miles. An excursion to the town of Küsnacht is a must. An apparently ordinary door opens into a world apart. Artist and chef Rico Zandonella has created a kingdom where dishes are inspired by Swiss, Italian and French cuisine and where each colorful dish is an aesthetic experience. Rico’s Carbonara is a dizzying combination of taglierini, eggs, foie gras and truffles. Ending our journey here means we have captured the intimate essence of the city. Rico’s is a perfect synthesis of modern Zurich: avant-garde, solid, unexpected – rich in art, culture and good taste.

Fischers Fritz © Fischers Fritz

Food Tour at Markthalle

The Mayor’s sword is thin steak wrapped around a sword blade and grilled, served with curry-garlic and barbecue sauces on the side. This is the historic center of the city. A few steps farther take you to the brightly colored Chagall stained glass windows in the Fraumünster church. On the opposite river bank is the historic Schwarzenbach Kolonialwaren, an emporium for tea, coffee, dried fruit, nuts, pasta and such, where purchases are made by weight. For sausages, make your way to Theaterstrasse where, at number 22, there’s the popular kiosk, Sternen Grill. In this crossroads of flavors and borrowings, there’s of course space for Italian culinary ventures. The best is at La Zagra (reviewed in Top Italian Restaurants, the new Gambero Rosso guide to Italian restaurants outside Italy). At number 273 on Seefeldstrasse, proprietor Antonio Sturiale presents his Sicilian cucina well-integrated into the reality of Zurich. Try his pasta with sardines or spaghetti with sea urchins. Another Made-in-Italy location is in one of the most romantic buildings in the city, La Terrasse, which pampers its elegant clients with exquisite Mediterranean creations. In summer guests can sit on the relaxing terrace-garden, and breathe in the Dadaist past of this building. The Cafè de la Terrasse is a good place to start off on an itinerary dedicated to art. Here, at the end of the 19th century, artists and intellectuals gathered. The Dadaists, for example, were habitués of the café before they transferred to the Café Odeon, across the street. La Terrasse became the second home to many exiles during the First World War. Benito Mussolini and Vladimir Il’ič Ul’janov (better known as Lenin) took their turns at these tables. This locale was also popular with more conventional

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Cabaret Voltaire

40 JUNE 2017

FOOD ZURICH In September

the food festival There’s no period that’s better than another for a visit. Every opportunity is a good one to visit Zurich. In the winter, the Alps are snow-covered and the Christmas markets open. In the warmer weather, the parks are green and the lakeside beaches open for swimming. But for the palateminded, the best time is certainly September, when Food Zurich is held, the festival launched by the city’s tourist organization and its partners. For eleven days, from September 7 to 17, over 70 events are dedicated to foodies. This second edition will feature tastings, dinners, show cooking that will involve some of the city’s most famous chefs and, of course, street food. www.foodzurich.com

FOOD ZURICH

Kronenhalle

Sternen Grill

visitors, and many physicists, including Albert Einstein, took their coffee here, as did writers like James Joyce and Thomas Mann. The Dadaist artists were comfortable here, although the Cabaret Voltaire, on Spiegelgasse is more famous for those clients. The Cabaret reopened recently as a bar and café, with an exhibition space dedicated to modern art. The first Dadaist evening was held at Zunfthaus zur Waag in July, 1916, and Hugo Ball recited his famous Manifesto here. The restaurant still exists and 41 JUNE 2017

offers a lovely view of Munsterhof, one of the most romantic squares of the historic center. A distinctive sign for the restaurant is an extraordinary fountain, where, from time to time, wine pours out instead of water. Our food and art tour ideally closes with Kronenhalle, a restaurant where you are surrounded by originals from painters such as Chagall, Mirò and Picasso – the owners at that time accepted works of art as payment for meals. Food and art come together, both viscerally part of being human.

Café de la Terrasse

Addresses Vollenweider Chocolatier Confiseur | Theaterstrasse 1 | 8001 Zurich | tel . +41 (0)43 288 04 04 | www . vollenweiderchocolatier . ch One of Switzerland’s most venerable pastry shops, still home to authentic masters of the art of chocolate. Not only sweets – savory foods are on offer for a serious snack right near the railroad station. Confiserie Sprüngli | Bahnhofstrasse | 8001 Zurich | tel . +41 (0)44 224 47 11 | www . spruengli . ch The recipe for luxemburgerli (mac-

Café Odeon

Zunfthaus zur Waag

arons) was perfected here by pastry chef Camille Studer from Luxembourg, who had found the recipe in France and perfected it in this historic pastry shop. Besides this specialty, still made according to the original recipe, the shop is famous for its pralines and truffles. Teuscher | Bahnhofstrasse 46 | 8001 Zurich | tel. +41 (0)44 211 5153 | www.teuscher.com Over one hundred different chocolate specialties are made and offered in this mecca. Only natural ingredients without chemical additives. The house is famous for its truffles.

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Läderach | Bahnhofstrasse 106 | 8001 Zurich | tel. + 41 (0)44 211 53 72 | www . laederach . com All the senses are satisfied in this shop. You can stop to watch the chocolatiers at work creating their masterpieces as you try to make your choices. Conditorei Schober | Napfgasse 4 | 8001 Zurich | tel. +41 (0)44 251 51 50| www . conditorei - cafe - schober . ch A visit to this shop is a trip back to a Belle Époque salon. Cookies and cakes, coffee and house-made chocolate – there’s something to satisfy every yen.

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Addresses

Zunfthaus zur Waag | Münsterhof 8 | 8001 Zurich | tel. +41 (0)44 216 99 66 | www.zunfthaus-zur-waag.ch

La Zagra | Seefeldstrasse 273 | 8008 Zurich | tel. +41 (0)44 550 40 00 | www.lazagra.ch

Kronenhalle | Rämistrasse 4 | 8001 Zurich | tel. +41 44 262 99 00 | www.kronenhalle.ch

Cafè de la Terrasse | Limmatquai 3 | 8001 Zurich | tel. +41 (0)44 211 72 10 | www.bindella.ch

Fischers Fritz | Seestrasse 559 | 8038 Zurich | tel. +41 (0)44 480 13 40 | www.fischers-fritz.ch

Café Odeon | Limmatquai 2 | 8001 Zurich | tel. +41 (0)44 251 16 50 | www.odeon.ch

Rico’s | Seestrasse 160 | 8700 Küsnacht | tel. +41 (44) 910 07 15 | www.ricozandonella.ch

Cabaret Voltaire | Spiegelgasse 1 | 8001 Zurich | tel. +41 (0)43 268 5720 | wwwcabaretvoltaire.ch

Blindekuh | Mühlebachstrasse 148 | 8008 Zurich | tel. +41 (0)44 421 50 50 | www.blindekuh.ch

Sternen Grill | Theaterstrasse 22 | 8001 Zurich | tel. +41 (0)43 268 20 80 | www.sternengrill.ch

Cabaret Voltaire Clouds

Useful information To best enjoy the city, invest in ZurichCard: unlimited travel on buses, trams, trains and funicular; reductions in major stores and free entrance to top museums; 50% discount on Stories of the Old Town tour run by the Zurich Tourist Office. For gourmet travelers, the same office offers, every Friday at 4 pm, from March to December, a Food Tour that visits the city’s most typical restaurants and eating spots in the Zurich-West neighborhood. For more information and reservations: www.zuerich.com/tours Zurich Turismo | www.zuerich.com | numero verde 00800 100 200 30

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m r o e l a P

by Clara Minissale

THE RENAISSANCE OF CUCINA Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;AUTORE

44 JUNE 2017

foto

Dario Lo Verde

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t believe the Palermitani who tell you that nothing interesting is happening in their city. Palermo, for those who live there, is often obvious, taken for granted. But recently, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been doing its best to show its brighter side, the one that is livelier and deeper from a cultural and culinary point of view. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an ideal destination for an early summer trip

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alermo’s cultural life was energized by UNESCO naming the city’s Arab-Norman itinerary to the World’s Heritage list. The culinary world of the city was inspired a couple of years ago by two new Michelin stars assigned in the province, even though the time was well past due for that recognition. So alongside chef Patrizia Di Benedetto’s storied Bye Bye Blues in Mondello (Palermo’s first star), today the city has Tony Lo Coco’s I Pupi in Bagheria, the town with artist Renato Guttuso’s villa and museum, a few kilometers from Palermo. On the other side of the coast, in Terrasini, a land of seashore and cliffs, is Giuseppe Costa’s Il Bavaglino. “Palermo is living through a renaissance, without a doubt,” declared

chef Lo Coco. “There’s still a great deal to do, but it’s evident that the city is changing. It responds well to the stimuli that come from a more careful and refined cucina. I’m pleased that there are entrepreneurs that believe in us and are willing to invest.” For example, Franco Virga and Stefania Milano, owners of Gagini, entrusted their kitchen to young Gioacchino Gaglio. They also launched Buatta, an easier formula in the Cassaro district (a tourist route par excellence) and Bocum, an ideal place for a pleasant drink surrounded by vintage décor, soft lighting and good music. The two restaurateurs said, “We have believed in this city since 2011, when everyone said we were crazy to open up in the historic center. We try to serve quality food,

Baked anelletti revisited by Tony Lo Coco, a dish that harks back to Palermo’s culinary tradition

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Tony Lo Coco

Dario Lo Verde photo

Markets

and street food Panelle, grilled dishes and sfincioni in the heart of the city Among the fascinating places to visit in Palermo are three historic markets. Vucciria is a network of streets between Via Roma and the Cassaro, Piazza Garraffello and Piazzetta Caracciolo. Over the years it has become less a market and more a home for movida, loud music, tasty street sandwiches, expansive grills for sausages and ice-cold beer. From Porta Carini, you can reach the Mercato del Capo: fish, meat, fruit and vegetables, spices and herbs. While sampling panelle (chickpea fritters), sfincione (Sicilian-style pizza), and meusa (spleen) panini, the stars of local street food, you move on to BallarĂ˛, the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s third market, where sellers of fruit and vegetables are interspersed with naturalized immigrants selling products from their home countries. La Vucciria

47 JUNE 2017

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Gioacchino Gaglio

and we see tourism as a resource.” Visiting Palermo is an experience that involves all the senses, often at the same time. Monuments and taverns alternate along the narrow streets of the historic center, as aromas and flavors tell about ancient rulers and rich counter-influences. Palermo is the land of Perricone wine, newly in the spotlight after years of neglect. It is also the home of the late-ripening mandarin orange of Ciaculli, grown by the Consortium trying to rescue a piece of the Conca d’oro. Also from here are the sweet, juicy plums of Monreale. In the countryside, honey is now produced by the nera sicula bee, saved from extinction. In Aspra, a seaside village near Bagheria, an ancient local anchovy product, colatura, is be-

Cuvée du Jour

ing made, along with salt-preserved anchovies. In the Cinisi zone, a breed of cow called cinisara is prized for its milk, the basis of caciocavallo palermitano cheese. “This cheese,” said Teresa and Gino Armetta, who own a shop in San Lorenzo, “is made according to tradition. The flavor is unique because it carries all the characteristics of the zone of origin and the elegance that you find in the cinisara breed.” All these top-quality materials appear in the cooking of the area’s best chefs, such as Carmelo Trentacosti from Cuvee du Jour, the restaurant in Villa Igiea, a five-star hotel with a view on the little port of Acquasanta. His menu offers elegant, powerfullyflavored dishes. Gaetano Billeci, who manages the restaurant in Palazzo 48 JUNE 2017

Honey from the nera sicula

www.cia.it

We bring to the world the WONDERFUL SECRET CASKET of Italian traditional foods MADE IN ITALY

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Gino Armetta and Palermitano caciocavallo

Branciforte, a few steps from the central Via Roma, has a menu inspired by tradition but revitalized with taste and imagination. This is also the headquarters of Gambero Rosso’s Città del gusto in Palermo, where courses and tastings related to local wine and food are organized. Also in the center, for those who love local cucina, lightened but not less flavorful, there’s Locanda del Gusto, the restaurant of the Quinto Canto Hotel, in the most romantic slice of the city, the Quattro Canti, between Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda, a few steps from the cathedral. Moving towards the sea, among narrow streets, tiny shops, miniature churches and votive altars, we come to Piazza Ma-

Museo dell’acciuga. Michelangelo Balistreri

Anchovies The museum of Aspra in the old factory

Aspra, a little seaside town near Bagheria, about 20 kilometers from Palermo, has a unique museum, entirely dedicated to anchovies. Working this fish sustained the families of this town for years. Built by two brothers, Girolamo and Michelangelo Balistreri, in the old headquarters of their canning factory, the museum displays objects and tells stories connected to fishing and to preserving the fish that embody the history of the place. From lithograph stones to the tools of the fishing trade, from equipment for salting to repairs of the fishing vessels, including documents that attest to tales that seem like legends – it’s all here. In fact, the Aspra anchovy people, along with those from Terrasini and Sciacca were so capable that they were invited to Spain to teach the locals the art of salt preservation. The museum is free, but reserve ahead. Museo dell’Acciuga | via G. d’Annunzio 151 | Aspra (PA) | tel. 091 928192

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Pastry Ricotta, cream and gelato: the dessert tradition rina, where a gigantic ficus tree, believed to be the largest in Europe, grows. A good place to stop for very good cake and croissants is the Cioccolateria Lorenzo is the place to stop for excellent cake and croissants, before moving on to Via Alloro to visit the Abatellis Museum and shop for dried fruit (calia e simenza) in the shore on Via Torremuzza. Next comes Santa Maria dello Spasimo, an impressive church without a roof in the heart of Kalsa, one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city. A little further is Flam, the attractive contemporary osteria run by brothers Flavio and Mirco Mannoia. Flavio, in the kitchen, revisits traditional dishes with an eye to the less classic ingredients of Palermitano cucina. Mirco, in the front, guides clients with charm and competence.

We salute the rich Palermitano pastry tradition that owes much of its fame to the delights of creamy ricotta in cannoli or to cassata, both classic and baked versions. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss those from Oscar or Cappello pastry shops. In the provinces, look for the excellent sweets Sciampagna makes in Marineo. Remember almond paste, reginella biscotti with sesame seeds, and, in the summer, watermelon gelo and brioche with gelato and whipped cream from La Delizia di Sferracavallo. Accardi | Palermo | via G. Amoroso, 1 | tel. 091 485797 |

www.accardipasticceria.com

Alba | Palermo | p.zza Don Bosco, 7c | tel. 091 309016 |

www.pasticceriaalba.it

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Marco Sferlazzo

Wine Perricone is to Palermo what Nerello is to Etna Perricone, one of the indigenous red grape varieties, is to the Palermitani what Nerello Mascalese is to Etna. At the end of the nineteenth century it was one of the most-grown varieties produced in the provinces of Palermo and Trapani. Used in the past to make Marsala Ruby, it was gradually abandoned. It owes its renaissance to the farsightedness and the faithfulness to their territory of some producers who kept it alive. “When I began to grow Perricone in 2009,” said Marco Sferlazzo, owner of Porta del Vento winery, “there were five other producers still doing it. Today, there are about eighteen.” There is a renewed and growing interest in this variety which has a character that is sometimes hard-edged but is also extraordinarily versatile. Castellucci Miano | Valledolmo (PA) | via Sicilia, 1 | tel. 0921 542385 | www.castelluccimiano.it Porta del vento | Camporeale (PA) | c.da Valdibella | tel. 091 6116531 | www.portadelvento.it Principi di Spadafora | Palermo | c.da Virzì | tel. 091 514952 | spadafora.com Tasca D’Almerita | Sclafani Bagni (PA) | c.da Regaleali | tel. 0921 544011 | www.tascadalmerita.it

52 JUNE 2017

La sala del ristorante Gagini

Addresses

where to eat

food shops

Gastronomia Armetta | Palermo | via dei Quartieri, 6 | tel. 091 6888986 | www.armettailsalumiere.it

Pizzo & Pizzo | Palermo | via XII Gennaio, 1 | tel. 091 6014544 | www.pizzoepizzo.it

Cuvee du Jour | Palermo | salita Belmonte, 43 | tel. 091 6312111 | www. villa-igiea.com

Kiddikà | Palermo | via Principe di Scordia, 63 | tel. 091 611 0349

I Pupi | Bagheria (PA) | via del Cavaliere, 59 | tel.091 902579 | www.ipupiristorante.it

Balistreri Girolamo & c. | Aspra (Pa) | via Cotogni, 64 | tel. 091 955612 | www.balistrerigirolamo.it

Il Bavaglino | Terrasini (PA) | l.mare P. Impastato, 2 | tel. 091 8682285 | www.giuseppecosta.com

Tardivo di Ciaculli | Palermo | c.so dei Mille, 1788 | tel. 091 6304260 | www.tardivodiciaculli.net

Picone | via G. Marconi, 36 | tel. 091331300 | www.enotecapicone.com

Miele Meli di Claudio Meli | Trabia (Pa) | c.da S. Onofrio Speciale | tel. 327 867 9506 |

Ristorante Palazzo Branciforte | Palermo | via Bara all’Olivella, 2 | tel. 091 321748 |

Azienda Agriturisica Bergi | Castelbuono (Pa) | s.s. 286 per Geraci Siculo km 17,50 | tel. 0921 672045 | www.agriturismobergi.com

wine & spirits

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I Peccatucci di Mamma Andrea | Palermo | via Principe di Scordia, 67 | tel. 091 6111654 | mammaandrea.it

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. NO. 1308/2013

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

The garden and wines of Borgo San Felice Love for Tuscany, for the Chianti zone, and above all for the community vegetable garden of Borgo San Felice these are the building blocks of Fabrizio Borraccinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cucina. He has worked with great French chefs and alongside Antonio Guida and Gordon Ramsey. Wine is everywhere - in sauces, in marinades, and, of course, in glasses.

Fabrizio Borraccino

An abruzzese who loves Tuscany

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

Fabrizio Borraccino, from Teramo, is 38 years old. He worked in Val d’Aosta, for 7 years at the Pellicano in Porto Ercole alongside the talented Antonio Guida, and outside Italy. with Pierre Gagnaire and with Gordon Ramsay in London. Before becoming executive chef at Borgo San Felice, he spent three years at Il Pievano, under the vaulted ceilings of Castello di Spaltenna. Tuscany has been a constant in Fabrizio’s life: he describes himself as an Abruzzese who loves Tuscany and Chianti, especially Chianti Classico. And who doesn’t fall in love with Castelnuovo Berardenga? Borgo San Felice is a postcard-like dream: 400 meters above sea level, it is in the heart of 140 hectares of vineyard, 16,000 olive and oak trees. A five-star relais & chateaux, the hotel is an elegant and restratined setting for Fabrizio’s two restaurants. One is the Osteria del Grigio. Recently renovated, it is a typical Tuscan inn with a regional repertoire that pays careful attention to meat, but also has an oven for pizza. The other, Poggio Rosso, is the gourmet restaurant. “Everything rotates around the vegetable garden, the Orto Sociale. It was planted five years ago and has been constantly enlarged. Thanks to the Foundation Umana Mente (Human Mind, but also a pun on ‘humanely’), work is coordinated by young people with special needs, helped by the town elders. Everything is grown organically and ripens more slowly. But what a satisfaction, and what flavors!” Fabrizio said. Herbs, wild greens, roots – all have a place in his kitchen. His dishes insist on earthy sensations, often with bitter notes and an astute use of spices. “Tuscany has always been a crossroads for spices. Think of pepper and the continuous voyages of Tuscan navigators. I like to enrich this theme with external elements, the memory of travels and migrations, the fragrances of markets in Morocco, of those spices and freshness, joining them to the incredible land I have around me,” he added. Wine plays a major role in the kitchen. “I use it in braised meats, in marinades, in reductions.” The clientele, both Italian and international, is demanding more seasonal vegetables, delicate and fresh dishes. His menu will continue to move in that direction. “I just got back from Montalcino. Along the way, there’s an incredible odor of acacia flowers, as if honey had been spread on the road. It’s sweet and head-spinning. Have you ever tried it fried?”

Poggio Rosso del Relais Borgo San Felice | Castelnuovo Berardenga (SI) | loc. San Felice | tel. 0577 3964 | www. borgosanfelice.it 56 JUNE 2017

Early seasonal vegetables,

raw and cooked, with roots and flowers Ingredients for 4 servings: 2015 carrots with their tops 300 g celery root 300 g beets 200 g parsnips 200 g parsley root 200 g chervil root 100 g rapini 200 g zucchini 200 g asparagus 20 g poppy leaves 20 g sorrel leaves 20 g nasturtium flowers Extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper Wash and trim the vegetables. Cook the discards of the parsnip and the beets for a long time and then strain and purĂŠe. This will form the base of dishes and enhance flavor. Clean and wash the wild leaves. SautĂŠ them with olive oil, a tablespoon of butter, salt, pepper and the peeled roots. Simmer them with the vegetable broth until they are soft and well coated. Cook the rest of the vegetables in salted water. Finish them with butter and the vegetable broth, along with the roots. Finally, dress the wild leaves with extra-virgin olive oil and aged red vinegar.

57 JUNE 2017

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

Pici with and crisp

lampredotto tripe , fava beans , aged pecorino di

Tuscan pancetta

Pienza

Ingredients 4 servings for the pasta: 300 g 00 flour

2 celery stalks

1 bunch herbs: thyme, marjoram sage

2 carrots

and savory

50 g twice-ground semolina

1 yellow

pepper

80 g water

2 garlic cloves, 100

For the lampredotto/tripe sauce: 500 g lampredotto tripe

onion pressed

g extra - virgin olive oil

300 g canned peeled tomatoes without seeds

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chicken broth white wine salt and pepper

Prepare the pici. Blend the two flours and add water. Knead into a smooth dough, cover with plastic wrap and leave in refrigerator for two hours. Roll out the pasta with a rolling pin and cut into strips. Roll the strips of pasta by hand to form a single long strand of spaghetti. Cut the lampredotto (cow stomach) into large pieces. Dice the vegetables into small

cubes. SautĂŠ lampredotto and vegetables in a large pot with olive oil and pressed garlic. Salt and douse with white wine. When wine is reduced, add chicken broth and tomatoes, sliced open. Add the herbs and simmer for two hours. When the lampredotto is tender and the sauce is ready, strain. Puree part of the lampredotto in a food grinder and add to sauce, then reduce sauce by half.

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Meanwhile, dry thin slices of Tuscan pancetta in the oven. Prepare shavings of pecorino di Pienza. Peel fava beans. Cook the pici in salt water, drain and add to the pan with the sauce and strips of lampredotto, peeled fava beans, extra-virgin olive oil and marjoram leaves. Complete the dish with pecorino shavings and crisp pancetta.

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

Crisp

suckling pig with sour beets , endive , potatoes dusted with prosciutto and coffee , tapioca sauce and chili pepper Ingredients for 4 servings 700 g suckling pig neck with

4 small Belgian endive skin

300

g new potatoes

g butter

200

g sliced white bread

g butter

g oven - dried prosciutto powder

g coffee powder

Salt and

pepper

for the vegetables :

150 30

g beets

g shallots

for the sauce :

g tapioca

g sugar

2 garlic cloves

100

g lemongrass

1 garlic clove,

g ginger root

g olive oil

Salt and

pepper

g red bell pepper chopped

a pinch powdered chili pepper

100

g rice vinegar

200

g reduced chicken broth

61 JUNE 2017

Season pork neck and cook in vacuum pack for 12 hours at 72°C/162°F. Prepare beets by cutting them into cubes and sautéing in olive oil with shallots, ginger, garlic and lemongrass. Then add rice vinegar and simmer until tender. Cook Belgian endive in a vacuum pack until very soft. Open pack, slice endive in half and sweat in a pan with olive oil. Peel potatoes and cut into strips. Sauté in pan with butter, garlic, thyme and pepper. When tender, dust with bread crumbs to which prosciutto and coffee powder have been added. For the sauce, cook tapioca pearls in 100 g of water. Dissolve sugar and salt in a pan with 50 g of water, add red bell peppers cut into small cubes and chopped garlic. Combine the two liquids and add chili pepper, vinegar and the chicken reduction. Brown the pork in olive oil until skin is crisp and brown. Compose the dish and spoon on sauce.

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

Cheesecake with rhubarb gelatin, raspberry sherbet and cereal sauce Ingredients for 4 servings Cream cheese cake: 80 g Italian meringue 130

g heavy cream

1 gelatin

leaf

g di mascarpone

g cream cheese

Prepare an Italian meringue with egg whites, sugar and water. Add cream cheese and mascarpone. Soak, squeeze out and dissolve the gelatin leaf in a little water and blend into mixture. Add halfwhipped cream at the end. Form into cubes and chill until firm

Shortbread biscuit:

Raspberry sherbet

40 g butter

200 g raspberry puree

70g sugar

130 g water

30g egg yolk

40 g sugar

1/5 teaspoon salt

15 g glucose

150 g flour

1 g sherbet stabilizer

5 g baking powder

Prepare a sherbet in an ice cream maker.

Blend ingredients. Chill, spread into thin quadrangles the size of the cheesecake surface, and bake in 170°C/340°F oven for 7 minutes. Rhubarb Gelatin: 150 g rhubarb syrup 0.4 g agar agar Dissolve agar agar in boiling syrup. Spread into thin sheet and cool. Cut into squares the same size as shortbread and cheesecake cubes.

Cereal sauce: 150 milk 25 g cereal Blend in food processor and cool. Assemble the dish Prepare the dessert as in the photograph: a layer of cereal sauce, a square of shortbread biscuit, then cheesecake cube and gelatin. Top with sherbet quenelle.

PAIRINGS

Early seasonal vegetables, raw and cooked, with roots and flowers

Pici with lampredotto tripe, fava beans, aged pecorino di Pienza and crisp Tuscan pancetta

Fontanasanta 2011 | Elisabetta Foradori | Mezzolombardo (TN) | www.elisabettaforadori.com

Chianti Classico 2013 | San Felice | Castelnuovo Berardenga (SI) | www.agricolasanfelice.it

To underscore the flavors of the herbs and roots, we choose a white Trentino. Nosiola made by Elisabetta Foradori has a unique tone of yellow flowers and wild herbs, deep, incisive sapidity and a slightly toasty tone that goes well with the earthy profile of this dish. The grapes come from two properties managed organically on the Trento hill. They are macerated on their skins and aged in terracotta amphorae.

We’ll stay at home with the winery’s own Chianti Classico 2013, a fragrant and lively red, well-articulated with berries and earthy, forest floor aromas. Tasty and vibrant in the mouth, it enlivens the development of the dish’s flavors with a well-balanced, juicy and continuous palate.

Crisp suckling pig with sour beets, endive,

Cheesecake with rhubarb gelatin, raspberry

Brunello di Montalcino 2010 | Campogiovanni | Montalcino (SI) | www.agricolasanfelice.it

Alto Adige Moscato Rosa 2015 | Franz Haas | Montagna/Montan (BZ) | www.franz-haas.it

Once again Sangiovese. But this time we move to the Montalcino winery in a year that was glorious for its tension and fragrant sensations. Brunello 2010 has a ripe and spicy profile that enhances the food, has the substance and fullness to sustain the palate and hold up aromatically to a complex dish. As usual, Sangiovese shines when it meets a spicy note.

There’s nothing easy about pairing this dish, with its fresh notes of cheese, its crispy pastry, and its gelatin with vegetal counterpoints. We choose to go with chromatic assonance and opt for a Moscato Rosa, an Alto Adige rosé made in limited numbers. Tones of dried flowers, a delicate fruity sweetness, a palate that is intense aromatically but still agile, able to sustain without stealing the show. The finish shades off, lightly, on fresh citrusy sensations.

potatoes dusted with prosciutto and coffee, tapioca sauce and chili pepper

sherbet and cereal sauce

64 JUNE 2017

C:41 M:0 Y:94 K0

Lingotto Fiere Turin November 17th - 19th, 2017

PANTONE 392 C

Gourmet Food Festival Making, Tasting, Learning, Buying A square full of taste that fits real foodies www.gourmetfoodfestival.it

GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it

SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri

PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina

LAYOUT Chiara Buosi, Maria Victoria Santiago, Martina Tricarico

CONTRIBUTORS Stefania Annese, Massimo Lanza, Clara Minissale, William Pregentelli, Massimiliano Rella, Francesco Seccagno, Loredana Sottile

PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Mickaël A. Bandassak (cover), Gaetan Bally, David Biedert, Chiara Buosi, Fisher Fritz, KMU, Philippe Labeguerie/ Vinexpo Bordeaux 2017, Dario Lo Verde, Gunnar Meir, Elisabeth Real, Massimiliano Rella, Francesco Vignali, Christian Schnur, Salvatori Vinci

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GAMBERO ROSSO is a Registered Trademark used under license by GR USA CORP Copyright by GAMBERO ROSSO S.P.A. 2017. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. GR USA CORP is not responsible for loss, damage, or any other injury as to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork or any other unsolicited materials. June 2017