year 21 - number 116 - march 2018 - gamberorosso.it
WINE
T R AV E L
FOOD
ITALIAN GRILLING: WHY IS BARBECUE APPEALING TO CHEFS AND TV? VINITALY 2018 SARDINIA IN SPRING TWINS IN MOSCOW Sure, it’s still March but Vinitaly Beyond the sea, eight springWe landed in the Russian is getting closer. We asked the time itineraries aimed to discapital to interview and por Italian Regions participating cover the inland treasures of tray the twin chefs who are at this year’s trade fair for their Sardinia, a veritable food and changing the local haute cuinews and anticipations. wine paradise. sine scene.
SOMMARIO year 21 - number 116 - march 2017 - gamberorosso.it
WINE
T R AV E L
FOOD
4 6 9 11 12 18 22 36
ITALIAN GRILLING: WHY IS BARBECUE APPEALING TO CHEFS AND TV?
48 58 68
Primitive and with our feet well planted Food News Wine News Wine of the month Four-leg journey in Trump’s America Top Italian Restaurants in Oslo Dossier Barbecue. Rediscovering ancestral cookery Vinitaly 2018. Themes, key words and the year’s previews The twins who are turning Moscow into a Food Mecca Anteprima Trade Fairs 2018 Sea and beyond. Sardinia in spring: 8 inland itineraries
VINITALY 2018 SARDINIA IN SPRING TWINS IN MOSCOW Sure, it’s still March but Vinitaly Beyond the sea, eight springWe landed in the Russian is getting closer. We asked the time itineraries aimed to discapital to interview and por cover the inland treasures of tray the twin chefs who are Italian Regions participating at this year’s trade fair for their Sardinia, a veritable food and changing the local haute cuinews and anticipations. wine paradise. sine scene.
36
12 68
48
Primitive and with our feet well planted “The passion for barbecuing is a kind of neo-primitive drive that overwhelms the hyper blazoned avant-garde artists the likes of Massimiliano Alajmo... or Massimo Bottura, who has just opened Gucci Osteria in Florence…”: the reflection by Gabriele Zanatta, author of our cover story (see page 22) is very illuminating and confirms the subtle (so to speak) leitmotif that for some time now has been going hand in hand with haute cuisine. That “sort of neo-primitive drive” is not limited, in fact, to the rediscovery of an ancestral cooking method, it is connected, in a broader sense, to the great need for concreteness, and a way to reconnect the threads of memory, to reassert in an almost obsessive way the necessity to cry out to the world that in order to be successful we have to do more beyond looking inward. Beyond the fact that over 30 years ago, the first Italian entrepreneur chef, Antonello Colonna shook with a revolution, and then built a small great empire, on a “smart” “desacralization of Roman cuisine, turning it into art––what will be the philosophy of Niko Romito in the restaurants of the new Bulgari Hotel in Dubai, Beijing, Shanghai and Milan? An anthology of the great classics of the Italian tradition. A “simple”, elegant cuisine that fully reflects our culture. On the same wavelength chef Francesco Apreda announces year in the name of the Mediterranean spirit (“I’m always identified as the chef of fusion, but I want to reiterate my Italian identity and I want to increasingly emphasize the link with the place in which I work”). Then there’s Pino Cuttaia who echoes him from his Facebook page where he launches the diktat of the new season: “a very Mediterranean 2018... sunlight, salt, water, stars”. From Sicily to Milan, where Luigi Taglienti has just recently (end of January, Ed.) presented the press with his new tasting menu, which is a program manifesto entitled: My Italian Cuisine. “I have always had perpetual anxiety when searching for novelty... today I know for sure that it is in Italy that I want to stay to innovate my cuisine with continuous new energy, unearthing the ancient wisdom guarded by my mother, my grandmother... thanks to a place and to the knowledge applied to the product and to ancestral techniques. Nowadays, in international terms, these are the most authentically innovative we have to offer...” And the “revolution” also means frying morone fish and salmoriglio, saltimobocca alla romana, quintessence of a Genoese touch, traditional lasagna à la Bolognese... Lasagna: one of the many variations of baked pasta; according to a survey conducted by Doxa for AIDEPI, the association of Italian pasta makers, lasagna is the favourite pasta recipe for Italians under 35. But it goes beyond that. According to AIDEPI, its widespread diffusion could also have environmental implications, since it could reduce Italy’s annual waste per capita currently set at 145 kilos of food. There’s little else more innovative than that. – Laura Mantovano
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CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REGULATION N. 1308/2013
Amarone della Valpolicella Great family prestige from 5 generations
COME AND VISIT US AT VINITALY HALL 5 STAND G2 Via Costabella, 9 - 37011 Bardolino (VR) Lago di Garda - Tel. +39 045 7210022 - zeni.it
NEWS
MASSIMO BOTTURA OPENS REFETTORIO PARIS. It had been announced via Le Figaro at the end of last summer; now the project is actually materialized. Come March 15th, Paris too will have its own Refettorio by Chef Massimo Bottura: the Refettorio Paris will open its doors to those seeking refuge and a hot meal. The refectory will be housed in the halls already used as a soup kitchen by the volunteers of the Parisian association Le Foyer de la Madeleine. To remodel the spaces, in the well-established past experience of Food for Soul in Italy and abroad, the French artists, designers and architects JR and Prune Nourry, Kubra Khademi, Nicola Delon and Ramy Fischler were summoned for the job. In the coming weeks, therefore, in the kitchens of the crypt will work famous chefs––French and not––who have responded to Massimo Bottura’s call. The food will be supplied by the Carrefour supermarket group, thanks to the collaboration of The Food Bank association and Phenix, a Paris company that favours reuse of food waste, distributing them to those in need. The refectory will serve 100 meals a day.
CIRO SALVO OPENS 50 KALÒ IN LONDON: EXPECTATIONS AND PROJECTS OF THE NEAPOLITAN PIZZA MAKER The last Italian pizza maker to have succumbed to the call of the UK sirens is Ciro Salvo, who together with his historic partner Alessandro Guglielmini is preparing to export the 50 Kalò format in London, originally located on the Mergellina seafront in 2014. In London, where he will open at the beginning of May 2018, the pizza chef from Campania will count on a privileged location in Trafalgar Square, with 200 square meter surface space in one of the busiest pedestrian areas of London. The idea, of course, is to reproduce in all respects the philosophy of the Neapolitan pizzeria, with quality preparations and products, many of which will be coming from Italy. “The idea of opening in London was born a few years ago says Ciro - I waited for the right time, I wanted to transfer the whole identity of 50 Kalò, and to do it at best I had to carefully study the right formula: this is a leap that can be done only when professionally mature and ready.” What are your expectations? “I will try to bring my idea of pizza, hospitality and service to London, something that started about 25 years ago that has since evolved and matured over time”. The menu will be the same as the Mergellina branch, seating 100 and employing 20: “In London, a team is already taking care of the preliminary part, I will train the staff to transfer the know-how.”
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NEWS
THE 1ST BIODEGRADABLE SUPERMARKET OPENS IN AMSTERDAM. EUROPE LAUNCHES A BAN ON PLASTIC
More than 300 million tons of plastic per year, 8 of which end up in the oceans: These are the critical numbers that emerge from the latest study conducted by international environmental groups, which offer an increasingly serious and delicate overview of global pollution caused by the accumulation of plastic products. Only 14% of this refuse is recycled (30% in Europe for a grand total of 25 million annual tonnes ). This is why the European Union has started an offensive to ensure that all packaging on the market be biodegradable and reusable. This is a project that the EU intends to complete by the year 2030. Hence the green-light for “plastic-free” departments in supermarkets, starting from the Netherlands. The initiative arises from the collaboration of Ekoplaza, a Dutch chain of organic food supermarkets, with the environmental group A PlasticPlanet, long involved in the fight against pollution. The ultimate goal is to remove plastic from all 74 chain stores by the end of 2018. But the one in Amsterdam is only the first in a series of plasticfree points in Europe. Limiting the use of disposable bags and all packaging is the goal of the European Union for the next few years. And even the UK government has promised the complete elimination of all “unnecessary” plastic waste, but with a multi-decade expiration, i.e. by 2042.
PROPER NUTRITION IS NOT FOR EVERYBODY. JAMIE OLIVER’S TAKE ON THE OBESITY/POVERTY RATIO In the years of healthy consciousness, being able to eat well and maintain a healthy and balanced diet is a luxury that few can afford. The poorest families are forced to resort to junk food, to lower quality foods, and to gain weight. These are the thoughts expressed by British chef celebrity Jamie Oliver, who has been campaigning his philosophy based on healthy living and the combination of food/ health. A theory that must be rethought, as he confessed to the British newspaper Times a few days ago. Considering that the advice on good practices in the kitchen is only available to wealthier audiences. “We see parents who do not even think about putting five portions of fruit and vegetables on the table, they’re more concerned about having enough food for
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the day,” said the chef. And he continues: “If you can only buy junk food, that’s all you’ll eat; and if only junk food is taken for granted, there’s where you‘ll end up”. The many projects studied with intelligence and sensitivity are unfortunately often complex to concretise. Obese, adults and children, “live almost in a different country”, explains Oliver, and the health lessons offered by the media, doctors, government and professionals can hardly be applied in these delicate and fragile predicaments. In fact, the poorest children are twice as likely to be obese compared to their richer peers: obesity, therefore, is a social, collective problem that must be tackled at national level, and not left to the will of the families. What will the next steps of the British government be?
Vini d’Italia Worldtour 2018/2019
2018 MARCH 02 06 08 17
NEW YORK - Usa LOS ANGELES - Usa SAN FRANCISCO - Usa DÜSSELDORF - Germany
JUNE trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri PROWEIN Special
APRIL 05
04 06 08 12
SEATTLE - Usa VANCOUVER - Canada TORONTO - Canada WASHINGTON DC - Usa
14 20
BOSTON - Usa PARIS - France
Top Italian Wines Roadshow trebicchieri trebicchieri Vini d'Italia Experience Vini d'Italia Experience Vini d'Italia Experience
SÃO PAULO – Brazil
Top Italian Wines Roadshow
09
HOUSTON - Usa
Top Italian Wines Roadshow
15
VERONA - Italy
trebicchieri
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER
VINITALY Special
TOKYO - Japan
25
DUBAI - EAU
Notte Italiana
BEIJING - China
trebicchieri
Vini d'Italia Experience
SHANGHAI - China
trebicchieri
HONG KONG - China
trebicchieri
MOSCOW - Russia
trebicchieri
MAY 07 22 24 31
ZÜRICH - Switzerland SINGAPORE - Singapore BANGKOK - Thailand HONG KONG - China
Vini d'Italia Experience Top Italian Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wine&Spirits Experience - Vinexpo Special
trebicchieri
2019 JANUARY
FEBRUARY
STOCKHOLM - Sweden
trebicchieri
LONDON – U.K.
trebicchieri
COPENHAGEN - Denmark
Vini d'Italia Experience
CHICAGO - Usa
trebicchieri
BERLIN - Germany
Vini d'Italia Experience
NEW YORK - Usa
trebicchieri
MUNICH - Germany
trebicchieri
LOS ANGELES - Usa
trebicchieri
SAN FRANCISCO - Usa
trebicchieri
MARCH DÜSSELDORF - Germany
trebicchieri PROWEIN Special
NEWS
EXPORT. TRUMP’S WAR ON TRADE TARIFFS AND EUROPE IS READY TO RETALIATE PUNISHING US FOODS. ARE ITALIAN WINES, OLIVE OILS AND CHEESE AT RISK TOO? There is strong concern in the world of wine for the war on trade tariffs announced by President Donald Trump: “The United States” he thundered “have a Trade Deficit of almost 800 Billion Dollars because of our stupid policies. Our jobs and our wealth end up in other countries who have exploited us for years”. In the White House’s crosshairs are, therefore, steel (tariffs at 25%) and aluminium (tariffs at 10%), while Europe is ready to respond in the same way, “punishing” the import of iconic star-and-stripe products, such as Levi’s jeans or Harley Davidson bikes. But it doesn’t end at that. According to Coldiretti, in reference to the rumours that emerged from the European Commission, the EU’s revenge could also fall on imports of US food (whose value today is 950 million euros): from pinto beans to peanut butter, Bourbon whiskey and rice, tobacco cigars, blueberries and orange juice. And this could lead to an American countermove precisely on the Italian-made agribusiness. Suppositions without foundation or scenarios to be implemented soon?
©photo Gage Skidmore
At the moment, it is not yet known whether the increases that Trump has in mind will be limited to some exporting countries or to all and if the agri-food sector will be included in the list. The fact is that what was most feared is becoming a reality, and the Italian business world now is starting to be uncomfortable. Today, Italian-made agri-food exports to-
wards the United States have reached 4 billion euros with wine in the lead (1.2 billion euros). Despite the arrest of growth in 2017 and the change of leadership from Italy to France, these numbers are essential for the Italian economy. On these figures however, hover at least three unknowns: Brexit, America First and the new Italian policy in terms of foreign relations.
SPAIN. EXPORT AT RECORD HEIGHTS: WELL OVER 3 BILLION IN 2017 After the decline in 2016, Spanish wine and wine must exports continue to grow. The increase recorded in 2017 is of 8.9 percentage points, which allows the Iberian sector to exceed 3 billion euros for the first time, reaching 3.18 billion. Thanks to good sales performance in China (+ 25.6%), Canada (+ 22.8%), Portugal, Italy (+ 34%), Sweden and Lithuania (+ 36.4%). Growing are both bottled and bulk wines. In terms of quantities, according to data released by the Oemv (Spanish Wine Market Observatory), Spain sold 28.5 million hectolitres abroad, with a growth of 3.2%. What’s interesting is the leap forward of Spain’s
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main sparkling wine, Cava, which today accounts for 81% of the value of sparkling wine exports. But the segment of packaged goods is also highlighted, increasing the value of sales by 88 million euros, reaching 1.71 billion euros. Overall, Spanish wine is in an improvement phase in both international image and level of average prices are growing. The Oemv emphasizes the diversification of the markets, in which the wineries have been working for some time. And the forecast balance for 2018, according to Oemv estimates, says that if the volumes exported will dip at the end of the year, there will be a significant appreciation of the average value and, therefore, a total increase in turnover.
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Since 1959 our Sangiovese has its roots in Rimini, between the land and the sea.
Le Rocche Malatestiane via Emilia, 104 - 47921 Rimini - Italia commerciale@lerocchemalatestiane.com
www.lerocchemalatestiane.it
NEWS
WINE OF THE MONTH FIANO DI AVELLINO ALIMATA ‘15 - VILLA RAIANO loc. San Michele di Serino - via Bosco Satrano, 1 - Serino (AV) www.villaraiano.com bottles 3000 ex-cellar price: 19.00 euros + taxes In just a few years, it went from being an oil-producing farm in the town of Raiano, in the municipality of Serino, to a first-rate winery in Irpinia. The winery was founded in 2009 in a unique setting of chestnut trees and vineyards, near the river Sabato. Sabino and Simone Basso, along with Paolo Sibillo, run 20 hectares of vineyards under certified organic management on a few outstanding plots of land. The entire production chain is scrupulously followed by Irpinian winemaker, Fortunato Sebastiano. There are two lines of wines: Classica and Vigne. A scintillating overall performance was led by the 2015 Fiano di Avellino Alimata, with its exhilarating traction, flavor and grip. It’s a deep and layered wine, creamy and gradual, with a refreshing and bright finish.
FRANCE. MACRON TRIES TO BREAK THE LAST TABOO: WINE. HOWEVER...
GRAPE VARIETIES. OIV PUBLISHES A RANKING OF THE MOST WIDESPREAD
In secular France the true taboo is wine. Woe betide should it ever be broken. It matters little if we talk about the country that produces the most famous bubbles in the world and if French wine continues to hold the world leadership in regard to value. The defence of the President of the Republic is also of little use. Wine is present, but it’s best not to mention it. Emmanuel Macron knows this. A few days ago, on the eve of the Salon de l’Agriculture, he dared to say: “I drink wine lunch and dinner and I believe public health is at risk when young people get drunk quickly with beer or spirits, but this is not the case with wine”. He had concluded with a reassurance to vignerons: “As long as I will be president there will be no amendment to strengthen the Evin law”. This law, which came into force in 1991, prohibits, among other things, direct and indirect advertising for alcoholic beverages on television and on billboards. It was never favoured by producers, who consider it one of the main causes of the decline in French wine consumption. But Macron’s words did not please the health lobbies and replies didn’t take long: a few days ago nine French doctors sent an open letter to the French newspaper Le Figaro pointing a finger at the president, accusing him of “putting people’s health at risk”. From their point of view, wine should be condemned like any other alcoholic beverage. The request, therefore, is to review the Evin law, to make it more severe, since, according to the team of doctors, per capita consumption of alcohol is among the highest in Europe: 12 litres per year. And the number of deaths due to alcohol abuse is around 50 thousand people. The final appeal sounds almost like a threat: “If nothing changes, those responsible must respond to justice and cannot claim ignorance”. Macron has been alerted.s, Spaniards drink about 29 million liters of wine, at a cost of between 60 and 70 million euros monthly.
There are over ten thousand grape varieties (among wine grapes and table grapes) that make up the world vineyard. 13 of these cover over a third of the total, while 33 make up half of the total. In a recent report, OIV took into account those spread in 44 countries (period 2000/2015), with an area of at least 65 thousand hectares. The most widespread variety is the Kyoho, a black berry table grape, of Japanese origin and mostly grown in China. The most common wine grape is Cabernet Sauvignon, which makes up 4% of the world vineyard and grown in China, France, Chile, USA, Australia, Spain, Argentina, Italy and South Africa. The first only white wine is Chardonnay. In Italy, the podium goes to Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Glera.Hong Kong (5%).
world chart for grape varieties (2000-2015) varieties
surface (hectares)
Kyoho* Cabernet Sauvignon Sultanina* Merlot Tempranillo Airen** Chardonnay Syrah Red globe* Garnacha tinta Sauvignon blanc Pinot noir Trebbiano toscano**
365 000 341 000 273 000 266 000 231 000 218 000 210 000 190 000 159 000 163 000 123 000 112 000 111 000
* table, drying and wine grapes ** wine and brandy grapes
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FOUR-LEG JOURNEY IN TRUMP'S AMERICA Chicago, New York, Los Angeles and San Francisco. Despite the slow growth of Italian wine, our Gambero Rosso tour confirms the interest of consumers and buyers for Italian products. And Italy remains leading supplier in terms of volume
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
STORIES
F
our stops, 250 awarded producers, more than 6K participants. The Gambero Rosso tour in the United States confirms the very special feeling American consumers have in regard to Italian wine. This historical feeling didn’t fail during the hardest crisis period, nor was it affected too much by the large fluctuations in the euro/dollar exchange rate. Reason why, even today that this market raises some concerns ––from the tariffs announced by Trump on aluminium and steel (which will come into force on March 23rd and which could also extend to the EU agrifood), to the slow growth of Italian wine exports and the consequent value French overtaking –– there’s good reasons for optimism. In 2017, in fact, the world's first market for Italy imported over 1.4 billion euros of Italian wine, confirming the main vehicle for our production. Specifically, the economic data of the Italian wine and food institute say that the US market last year still purchased wine for 9.4 million hectolitres (+7%) costing 4.2 billion dollars (+5.8%), and sparkling wine for 1.24 million hectoliters (+11.6%) for a cost of 1.17 billion dollars (+10.6%). Naturally we must consider that, with 1.75 billion dollars, France closed 2017 at the top of the ranking of the main suppliers of wine value, barely exceeding Italy (1.73 billion dollars). In 2009 –– in the midst of the economic crisis –– Italy was the undisputed leader in this market. But this shouldn’t discourage, remember that Italian wines still hold the record in quantities, with 3.24 million hectoliters in front of Australia, Chile and France. The Italian sparkling wine production recorded a +11.6% in volume and +9.6% in value, and grew more than still wines which increased, compared to 2016, almost 1% of quantities sold, with a 1.4% increase per value.
CHICAGO
The four legs of the tour (Chicago, New York, Los Angeles and San Francisco) recorded great participation, thanks to twenty years of experience, a tested organization and an oenological guide that is always a point of reference for buyers. The windy city was the first stop in our tour, the occasion was one of the most successful events in the last five years, both for the number of producers and for number of visitors, given the presence of many of the country's most important players. Italian dining started slower than other cities, but quickly changed gears on both the restaurant and pizzeria fronts. Excellent feedback on the world of Barbera d'Asti and Lambrusco, which were at the centre of a seminar that also took place in New York and that brought into play the concept of big and small wine, fielding a complexity that’s not completely recognized yet. Among restaurants in the city stand-outs included "Pelago", the realm of chef Mauro Mafrici: the only award-winning venue with Tre Forchette recognition in the Illinois capital.
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GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR
NEW YORK
The event organized in the Big Apple for the past 25 years marks the agenda of operators. "Eighty percent of the market is still asking for reds, but we’re seeing a change in the trend, we want more whites, more native grape varieties. From today's tastings I was impressed by the quality of Fiano di Avellino, Grechetto and Vermentino" comments the sommelier and blogger, Hillary Zio. In regard to whites, we got excellent feedback on Custoza, which starred in New York and Los Angeles seminars, and which showed its longevity: a white sold on the market at
GLASSES OF LAMBRUSCO AND SANGIOVESE
a definitely appetizing price range.
The Secchia and Panaro river, amid
liant reflections of Sorbara. The re-
In regard to restaurants, "Il Gattopardo" of
Modigliana ditches and the clays of
sponse that seemed unthinkable only
Gianfranco Sorrentino, and "Marea" gar-
Bertinoro. In Chicago and New York
a few years ago, certifies how much
nered the most attention. In addition to
we travelled virtually through the
good wine was made in the region.
most gluttonous parts of the Emilia-
Small producers and large coopera-
Romagna region, with focus on Lam-
tives offer more territorial, enjoyable
brusco, from the intense and violet
wines, sold on the market at extreme-
character of Grasparossa, to the bril-
ly attractive prices.
fine raw seafood, also an attractive Italian wine list that focusses on diversity and bottled whites.
LOS ANGELES
In the City of Stars the event took place Downtown, with a high percentage of importers and restaurateurs. The quality of Italian cuisine in L.A. is still not at its peak, but there are multiple openings. Among the many operators hailing from San Diego, also Sicilian chef Accursio LotĂ of restaurant "Solare", awarded with Tre Gamberi recognition.
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STORIES
SAN FRANCISCO
The City was home to the great festival of Italian wine. "The wines of Southern Italy continue to lead the race, for the next few years I am betting on Calabria which is still a little-known region that still offers honest prices", says Shelley Lindgren, wine director of "A16", awarded as best wine bar in San Francisco. The best pizzeria in town, awarded with Tre Spicchi recognition is "Montesacro" of Gianluca Legrottaglie, who was among the first to bring pinsa romana to the United States. Now he’s being imitated everywhere from New York to Chicago. There’s a strong focus on the important wine list for a pizza restaurant.
BARBERA D’ASTI AND MONFERRATO It's hard to find a more gastronomic wine than Barbera d'Asti, with its typical acidity and tannic texture that tickles the palate. A technical seminar was held in Chicago cantered on the various aspects of Barbera d'Asti, from the youngest aged in cement to richer and more concentrated versions designed to last over time. In addition, various versions of Pinot Nero of Monferrato, the gentle character of Arneis and the aromatic accents of Ruché, which aroused amazement among participants.
ITALIAN EXPORTS TO USA
year
quantity (mln/lt)
in billion €
value
2016
329,1
1,35
2017
334,8
1,4
In general, it’s the entire US restaurant sector that’s driving sales of Italian wine, with variety and depth of vintage that are difficult to find even back home. All the restaurants reviewed in the Gambero Rosso Top Italian Restaurants guide can be found on the website at this link: www.gamberorosso.it/restaurants. In the meantime, the tour is looking to Germany: Saturday, March 17th Tre Bicchieri will begin at Prowein in Düsseldorf.
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GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR
CONTADI CASTALDI AWARDS THE BEST PIZZERIE The quality of Italian pizzerias in the world continues to grow and is much higher than one might think. Contadi Castaldi, sponsor of the Top Italian Restaurants guide, has awarded the best venues in every single city. In New York City "Ribalta" sweeped accolades. The constantly reliable Neapolitan pizzeria of extraordinary was the only one in town to receive Tre Spicchi recognition. In Chicago "Forno Rosso" stands out. Nick Nitti’s project has two locations and a soft and airy dough, a fine wine list and wins Due Spicchi in the guide. In Los Angeles, "Terroni Downtown"
FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO AND PIZZA MARGHERITA
won for the extraordinary promotion work on Italian wines, with both by-the-glass and à la carte hand-
During the events held in Los Angeles and San Francisco, one of the
some offers; and crisp and fragrant pies. The best Ne-
most classic combinations of the Campania tradition was pairing pizza
apolitan style pizzas in town are Vito Iacopelli’s, his
margherita and Falanghina del Sannio. Thanks to the pizza truck of Mae-
"Pizzeria Prova" shines in the West Hollywood venue.
stro Pizzaiolo Augusto Folliero, fourth generation pizza chef, hot pies
Finally, in San Francisco on the highest step of the
were baked on the spot and came served with a wide range of Falanghi-
podium is "Montesacro" and its fragrant pinsa romana
na del Sannio 2017 wines. These are emerging whites lately, thanks to
topped with super quality ingredients. The world is
theit vibrant acidic character and a very palatable price.
increasingly recognizing and appreciating the complexity of Italian baking in all its nuances.
CUSTOZA STANDING THE TEST OF TIME Six wineries and 12 wines were the stars of a vertical tasting capable of narrating the longevity and the evolution of a white produced in the morainic hills that develop between Verona and Lake Garda. Two seminars, held in New York and Los Angeles, and conducted by Costantino Gabardi, Marco Sabellico and Giuseppe Carrus, illustrated the aromatic baggage of a versatile and graceful white, which over time develops a delicate note of saffron and pepper that is truly unique and captivating.
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TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS
TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN OSLO
TRATTORIA POPOLARE
CAMPO DE’ FIORI
VILLA PARADISO FROGNER
Trondheimsveien, 2 - Oslo popolare.no
Josefines Gate 23 - Oslo www.pinerolocantina.no
Sommerrogata, 17 - Oslo www.villaparadisofrogner.com
Average Price: kr 300
Average Price: kr 250
Average Price: kr 300
We almost risked our lives to
Fabio Pezzoli is a volcano of a man.
Norwegian director Jan Vardøen
reach Trattoria Popolare. It was
For years he was at the helm of Villa
owns two citywide locations: Villa
the middle of winter and a slab of
Paradiso Frogner with his all-Roman
Paradiso Grünerløkka bakes a Neapol-
ice covered the entire city. Our backflips
energy. He is now at the lead of this
itan-style crust. While the one in the
and ridiculous falling made a few locals
new enterprise: Campo de’ Fiori is an
more posh Frogner neighbourhood
smile but it was totally worth it. An Italian
enoteca that serves food too. Wooden
bakes thin and fragrant crusts. Between
wine list of such depth, breadth and co-
tables, warm and cozy ambiance and a
the two we definitely opted for the lat-
herence like the one at Trattoria Popolare
strictly Roman menu. Think bruschetta
ter, opened three years ago. Served in
is hard to find, even in Italy. The articulate
with grilled sausage from Ariccia, plus
large numbers and using dependable
offer features a large presence of natural
traditional classic pasta dishes, such as
dough, the pies are paired to a surpris-
wines such as Cornelissen and Occhipin-
Rigatoni alla Grigia (bacon and pecori-
ingly on point wine list, featuring over
ti, as well as big vintage classics with non-
no Romano) and Bucatini Amatriciana.
100 wines that can also be sold by the
Norwegian prices (forced on restaurants
Entrees feature the delightful coda alla
glass. During our last visit, important
by the Vinmonopolet taxing). And with
vaccinara (oxtail in tomato sauce), roast
bottles of Barolo and Amarone were
the wine list comes a classic, wholesome
lamb chops, or baccalà alla romana
paired with margherita, marinara, par-
and no-nonsense cuisine. Even if the car-
(from Norway, obviously). The place is
migiana, pizza with spreadable spicy
bonara may have not made a true Roman
a mix of exuberance and flavour, irony
sausage ‘nduja. We had never seen
happy, the ravioli with coda alla vaccinara
and focused recipes. In addition to these,
so much wine consumed in an Italian
(braised oxtail) were delicious, as well as
Roman style thin crust pizza baked in a
pizzeria. In the back is also a refined
the unconventional lemon-scented tira-
wood-stoked oven. The wine list is am-
wine cellar with a good selection of
misu, which totally worked. Young and
ple and refined, with many Lazio wines
Italian cheeses.
courteous service. Oh, and the house red
and treats from other Italian regions.
wine is just as enticing…
There are approximately 70 wines by the glass. On Thursday the kitchen traditionally serves gnocchi, just like in the Eternal City.
GAMBERO ROSSO
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MARCH 2018
TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS
Cacio e pepe in Oslo? Ravioli filled with oxtail? Yes, in the Norwegian capitol there are exquisite and reliable trattorias whose identity is well defined and the food offer is well structured. Think dreamy Italian wine cellars and pizzerias where pizza Margherita is the pretext for ordering a grand bottle of Amarone or vintage Barolos.
Top Italian Restaurants
BONO – TRADITIONAL ITALIAN FOOD
Š
ww w .gamberorosso.it
Niels Juels gate, 25 - Oslo We really like this delicatessen with traditional, authentic Italian cuisine. The venue is under the management of Andrea Bono, native of Piedmont, who also opened a delicious coffee bar in the city. The place is located in the elegant neighbourhood of Frogner, the atmosphere is warm, the tables are well spaced, the tablecloths are classic chequered and the cuisine is informal trattoria style, with a Mediterranea twist to Chef Monica, born and raised in Salerno. On the menu there are tagliatelle with wild boar ragout, excellent risotto, and a wide selection of cheeses and cured meats. The grandiose wine list is deep with extremely low prices for average Norwegian standards. Welcoming customers at the entrance is a counter filled with treats and typical Italian products that can be either sampled or purchased and brought home.
www.gamberorosso.it/restaurants/
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MARCH 2018
GAMBERO ROSSO X TRENTO DOC
TRENTODOC. THE “TRADITIONAL METHOD” CONQUERS ITALY Trentino, with its 10,000 hectares of vineyards, accounts for just 2% of the total national vine-planted area, a predominantly mountain region with all the difficulties that this may entail in the cultivation of vines. But the stubbornness and the far-sightedness of the local people has transformed what is considered a disadvantage into a strongpoint for the production of excellent wines. On hilly slopes ranging from 200 to 800 meters above sea level, with the Dolomites as a backdrop, chardonnay and pinot noir are at home among the Trentino valleys, and here they found a good environment with strong temperature ranges, ideal for their characteristics. “Bollicine di montagna”: this is the payoff of the Trento Doc brand summarising the distinctive elements of the production of these enchanted places. Perhaps few people know that in Italy, the Trento denomination was the first reserved for classic, or “traditional” method sparkling wine in 1993; but go-
ing back in time the first bottle of that kind dates back to 1902 and was baptized by Giulio Ferrari. «First in Italy, but also among the first in the world says Enrico Zanoni, recently re-elected to the presidency of the Institute - over the years the disciplinary ruling has not been the subject of particular changes and only recently has changed with the introduction of the Riserva type for the Trentodoc rosés». The Trento Doc Institute was founded in 1984, by the will of some producers who worked to see the denomination recognized for the classic method. In the last ten years a strong impulse has grown, and the association has seen an increasing number of members up to the current 49. But what are the numbers of Trentodoc? « Production is in constant growth; nowadays it ranges around 9 million bottles. Italy currently accounts for 80% of sales, while for foreign countries the main outlet countries are North America, Japan and Northern Europe. The promotion activities aimed at increasing the notoriety and reputation of the Trentodoc brand follow some precise guidelines explains Zanoni - the first is giving the many tourists who visit Trentino the opportunity to experience the product directly on the territory that generates it. On the other hand, we also work to give the product visibility in areas of Italy. To this end we are very satisfied with the collaboration with the Italian Sommelier Association with which we arrange tastings and events in various Italian cities, as well as sponsorship of the Best Italian Sommelier Competition. We will obviously be present at the next Vinitaly with a dedicated area, where we will be presenting a series of meetings and presentations with authoritative opinion leaders in the world of wine». And regarding the future? «The activities of the Institute in the coming years will be aimed at consolidating the path taken up to now, including investments on final consumers. Among the priorities we will also be strengthening promotional activity in the US market and the possibility of starting others in other countries, ideally those that show the best potential for growth».
TRENTO DOC IN FIGURES
10,000 hectares planted in Trentino over 1,000 hectares of Trentodoc 90% of sparkling wine grapes are Chardonnay Trentino produces 35% of Italian Traditional Method spumante Trentino is the number 2° producer of Traditional Method in Italy 2016: 10% growth in quantity; 14% in value
49 wineries belonging to Trentodoc 9 million bottles for over 90 million euro in Italy 80% of sales USA, JAPAN, EUROPE major foreign markets
GAMBERO ROSSO
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MARCH 2018
GAMBERO ROSSO X TRENTO DOC
BY WILLIAM PREGENTELLI
THE MOST ANCIENT AREA FOR TRADITIONAL METHOD SPARKLING WINE Often at the core of success is a simple intuition. Giulio Ferrari was a young oenologist studying at Istituto Agrario di San Michele all’Adige and who travelled often between France and his native Trentino. He was bedazzled by the charm of Champagne and its tiny bubbles. Seeing similarity with that production area and his Trentino, he tried recreating that same magic on his turf. He implanted chardonnay, started experimenting and in 1902 he popped the cork of the first ever Trentino-made traditional method wine.
1850: first experiments of Trentino traditional method 1874: founding of Istituto Agrario di San Michele all’Adige agrarian institute 1902: Giulio Ferrari starts producing traditional method spumante 1984: founding of Istituto Trento Doc by will of its producers 1993: The Trento DOC is approved, the first ever in Italy dedicated to Traditional Method spumante 2007: birth of the collective territorial brand Trentodoc 2008: birth of the Fondazione Edmund Mach (ex-agrarian institute) 2018: 49 spumante wineries belong to the Institute
ISTITUTO TRENTODOC via del Suffragio, 3 - Trento www.trentodoc.com
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MARCH 2018
DOSSIER BARBECUE. REDISCOVERING ANCESTRAL COOKERY Initially specific to the U.S., in recent years the barbecue has also become popular with us. It allows different cooking methods and is suitable for any type of preparation. So much so that manufacturers have begun reducing the size of barbecues so that they can also be used in restaurant kitchens
words by Gabriele Zanatta – artwork by Marcello Crescenzi
STORIES
F
or starters, we must clear up a common misunderstanding: grill and barbecue are not at all the same thing. With grilling technique, we designate a cooking method used for the first time perhaps one million seven hundred thousand years ago. Once fire was discovered and tamed, it didn’t take long for Homo erectus to understand the benefits of meat roasted directly over lively flames. And barbecue? That was born much later. The etymology goes back to the term, barbacoa, a word that Christopher Columbus’ men may have heard for the first time in the Caribbean in 1492 by the Taino population, rulers of the island that’s currently divided between Haiti and the Dominican Republic. The Taino called barbacoa the wooden grill on which food covered with leaves was normally cooked. This was the ancestor of the modern barbecue, which today consists precisely of “two metal hemispheres that produce a closed but ventilated cooking chamber, inside which are slowly cooked foods using embers or an indirect heat source,” reads the introduction of Barbecue Surprise, a cult manual edited by Magi&Co and published in May 2016 by Accademia dei Signori del Barbecue. In order to understand the greater sophistication of the barbecue there are two key expressions, “closed chamber” and “cooking at the sides.” “The presence of a lid––explains Gianni Guizzardi, founder of the Accademia––does not serve, as some may naively think––to protect foods from the rain, but rather to regulate temperatures, to control the amount of air inside the brazier and to maintain an ideal amount of humidity. These are factors which, at the same temperature, guarantee faster and better cooking.” A steak cooked on the barbecue is ready in 7/8 minutes; on a grill it will take 12/15 minutes. “The first will be crisp on the outside and tender on the inside; the second will have more of a crust, but the heart will be rawer”. The cooking on the sides, or with indirect heat, is instead “perfect for cooking whole foods, which require cooking times over 25/30 minutes, such as pork loin, roast, fish, chicken and turkey, plus fatty pieces like ribs or bacon”. Like roner, but better: «It’s healthier because the barbecue disperses the fats drained from the meat and the meat is cooked well with the benefit of external caramelization». Of course, barbecuing does not exclude fast, direct atavistic cooking, recommended to
TECHNIQUES
1
5
Barbecuing (or indirect cooking) Indirect heat barbecue: embers (or flames) are not placed directly under the foods, so the process of cooking is slower and greatly influenced by the aroma of smoke.
Reverse searing To cook very thick pieces of meat properly inside (juicy) and for the exterior(crisp with Maillard reactions that occur above 150°), one can cook the meat over indirect heat and at a low temperature to reach the core of the food (for a steak that's approximately 48°). The meat should then rest for a moment on a plate, then should be quickly seared over direct and very high heat.
2 Grilling (or direct cooking) This is direct cooking over flames or embers: the force of the fire must be moderate or high, the foods are cooked quickly, the presence of smoke is significantly less.
3 Hot&Fast Cooking over high direct heat in order to seal the exterior by charring (sliced rump, asparagus, shrimp): these are lean foods that cook quickly and present exterior Maillard reaction but maintain the inside moist.
4 Low&Slow Indirect heat, lid closed and temperature around 95°-107°: which allow the exterior to not char and the heat to reach the core of the food.
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MARCH 2018
6 Smoking Prepare the barbecue like you would for indirect cooking and beside the grill place a container with water (to obtain fresh smoke); when the embers are ready, place wet chips of aromatic wood (cherry, apple, oak, whiskey barrels) and cook with with the lid closed.
STORIES – BARBECUE ITALIAN-STYLE
WHAT DO THE GREAT ITALIAN BUTCHERS THINK OF THE BARBECUE? The widespread concept of barbecue in Italy is a model uncritically imported from the Anglo-American one, in which mainly foreign meats are cooked using an Anglo-Saxon lexicon: brisket, pulled pork... Not to mention the habit of glazing meat cuts with a variety of sauces. This original model has little to do with Italian meat cuts, which tend to be leaner, with different textures and less marbling, plus boasting a less resistant fat layer and that therefore should use less invasive cooking techniques, a lighter hand and exclusively wood-embers. A cooking method, in short, that’s at the service of the meat itself, leaves qualities intact and respecting delicacy. — Michele Varvara (of Macelleria Varvara fratellidicarne, Altamura - BA) I have always seen fire-grilling, since childhood, as an important and apparently simple convivial moment. Now that I am trying my hand at this cooking method, I realize the implied difficulties. The basic recipe for a proper cooking on the grill? Either wood- or coal-stoked, what’s important is quality. I prefer grilling larger cuts of meat, but always of the highest quality. Should the meat contain more fat? Yes, but to a certain point. Better to have a leaner but better-quality meat, than a fattier but pumped with hormones (like most of the commonly sold meats). It is useful to calculate if the day is more or less windy and where the wind is coming from. Also, calculate the amount of coals to use before you start cooking. And then prefer indirect cooking with long cooking time: any meat cooked like this will give you better results. On seasoning before or after cooking, it wise to let each decide on their own, bearing in mind that the higher the quality of the product, the less it needs to be seasoned. — Roberto Liberati (of Bottega Liberati, Roma) There is a lot of interest in the bbq – especially the Weber-type with a lid – even by those who have never approached cooking meat. Many people, after watching TV programs feel like experts, asking me for meat cuts without really knowing them: for example, brisket or pastrami which are essentially the same cut, but treated differently, same goes for asado and flank steak. This growing interest in the bbq creates the opportunity to open a dialogue with consumers based on trust, such as those who want to learn more while respecting the work of others, including farmers and butchers. When buying at the butcher, just like it happens at the fishmonger, consumers should purchase what’s available that day. Nature has its cycles and quantities. Don’t ask for a specific cut of meat for the bbq, rather state your preferences, what animal you want, and then listen to us butchers on how to work the available cuts. All parts of the animal are good when grilled, even tripe. You need to know more about the meat, the type of heat (wood or gas) and then you need to study a lot. — Franco Cazzamali (of Macelleria Cazzamali, Romanengo - CR) We should choose the butcher before the meat: if we rely on someone who works with conscience and ethics, that person will also be interested in educating and giving advice on the product, the environment and, ultimately you, the customer. For a good bbq quality, healthy meat is key. Additionally, the meat should be left as clean and pure as possible: no sauces or spices, just good meat to be cooked. Any type of grill you choose will be fine, be respectful of temperature. We do not ravage the meat with temperature shock, this is very important. And then we pay great attention: beef does not forgive the slightest mistake. — Gian Pietro Damini (of Damini Macelleria e affini, Arzignano - VI) Lately it seems we cannot live without it. More and more bbq lovers come to me in search of delicacies cut to perfection. Hardworking homemakers, these self-appointed grill gurus come looking for Boston Butt or Saint Louis… that’s globalization! Not to mention the brines and marinades: with honey, molasses and various other concoctions, and the related smoking for days and days. If I think of the barbecue by associating it to a special day, enjoying meat in the open air and in good company, I say yes. If I have to think of it as an alternative cooking method to the cast iron pan, I am still very perplexed. Above all I’m against the cumbersome process of standardization in the meat market that risks nullifying the sacrifice of farmers and my research. — Michelangelo Masoni (of Macelleria Masoni, Viareggio - LU) My blood smells of Romagna embers, however, I consider the barbecue in part as an anesthetic of original flavors. The risk is that the ingredient is for the most part featured as a supporting role losing all reminiscence of the animal, the culture of the territory, the breeding methods. I find that bbq is more of a merry divertissement than anything else. Of course, the new BBQmasters flourish and generate good business but what I consider food culture, however, is something else... — Giuseppe Zen (of Macelleria Popolare, Milano)
GAMBERO ROSSO
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MARCH 2018
STORIES
CHEFS AT THE BARBECUE What follows is an obviously incomplete map of the cooks in Italy who consider barbecue cooking as an integral part of their cuisine and at the core of their research. Warning: we intend the orthodox manner of barbecue in the strict sense, hence why some names (such as Lorenzo Cogo of El Coq in Vicenza, or Errico Recanati of Andreina in Loreto) more oriented towards skewers and grills are not mentioned here.
VIVIANA VARESE
Alice Ristorante a Eataly Milano (ex teatro Smeraldo) piazza 25 Aprile, 10 0249497340 - aliceristorante.it
BARBECUED PUMPKIN WITH BAYLEAF GELATO AND PUMPKIN OIL
give meaning to thin, sliced, skewered or fishbased foods. Yet indirect grilling is the virus that triggers the increasing bbq-manic fever in Tennessee, Missouri, Texas and North Carolina, the American quadrilateral in which the technique has been perfected. An ecpirosis––fire origin––that is rapidly inflaming Italy. Even haute Italian cuisine. As explained by chef Igles Corelli, who has been grilling since the days of legendary Trigabolo di Argenta and is recently at the helm of Gambero Rosso Schools – «The barbecue has immense value, especially for catering and banquets. It is a traveling kitchen that allows you to serve large numbers and get beautiful results. The beauty of indirect heat cooking is that fat can drip away, but not on the coals, plus ribs and sausages are degreased without burning. The direct cooking method has the advantage that you can quickly cook large dishes like my chestnut stuffed duck, wrapped in pork netting». But man does not live on meat alone: «When grilling zucchini and eggplant, these will thin out and be half charred –– says Igles, recently elected chef at Mercerie in Rome - if instead you dip the vegetables in sparkling water and then cook them, first with indirect heat and then on a live flame, the result will be ten times better. Potatoes, on the other hand, if you wrap them in foil, they will be ready after an hour and will be amazing». «The beauty of the Italian-style
CESARE BATTISTI
MARCO AMBROSINO
SNAIL AND PORCINI SKEWERS
LAMB WITH BLACK GARLIC AND SEA CABBAGE
Ratanà - Milano via Gaetano de Castillia, 28 0287128855 - ratana.it
28 Posti - Milano via Corsico, 1 028392377 - 28posti.org
Varese Lissone
DIEGO ROSSI
Trippa - Milano via Giorgio Vasari, 1 3276687908 - trippamilano.it
Costa Masnaga Monza Milano
Sarmeola
Torino
FIRE GRILLED BONE MARROW
Trebbo
Sasso Marco
Alassio Quarrata Pisa
ALESSANDRO NEGRINI
Firenze
Aimo e Nadia - Milano via privata Raimondo Montecuccoli, 6 02416886 - aimoenadia.com
CRUSTACEANS GRILLED OVER OLIVE WOOD EMBERS
MARCO STABILE
R
Ora d’Aria - Firenze via dei Georgofili, 11R 055 200 1699 oradariaristorante.com
THE TWO-COOKED GREAT STEAK
Siddi
MASSIMO BOTTURA
Gucci Osteria - Firenze piazza della Signoria, 10 05575927038 - gucci.com
Cagliari
CHIANINA HOT DOGS
ROBERTO PETZA
S’Apposentu di Casa Puddu Siddi (VS) - vico Cagliari, 3 0709341045 - sapposentu.it
FIREWOOD COOKED FATTY ARBOREA OX
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MARCH 2018
FEDERICO DELMONTE Acciuga - Roma via Vodice, 25 (in apertura nel mese di aprile)
BACCALÀ, SWEET PEPPERS AND SPINACH
P
MASSIMILIANO ALAJMO
GRILLED KIDNEY WITH RADICCHIO SALAD AND ESTRAGON MUSTARD SORBET
Mr. Doyle Roma – via Massaciuccoli, 64 066481 6085 – vinoforum.it/mrdoyle
Le Calandre – Sarmeola di Rubano (PD) via Liguria, 1 049630303 – alajmo.it
MAX POGGI
Trebbo di Reno (BO)- via Lame, 65 051704217 - mpoggi.it
Trieste
ola
BARBECUED TORTELLINI
sso Marconi
AURORA MAZZUCCHELLI
Ristorante Marconi - Sasso Marconi (BO) via Porrettana, 291 - ristorantemarconi.it
HEMP FLOUR CHAPATTI WITH SMOKED BBQ RICOTTA
nze
OTHER ADDRESSES Smoke Ring
FLORIANO PELLEGRINO
Bros’ - Lecce via degli Acaya, 2 0832092601 - brosrestaurant.it
QUAIL, LEEK, MISO, PARSLEY AND GARLIC
Roma
Trani
Roma – via Portuense, 86 (Porta Portese) 065814400 – smokeringroma.com
Tyler Roma – piazzale di Ponte Milvio – 3923794887 – tyler.roma.it Ribs and Beer Milano – via R. Pitteri, 110 – 0226415579 – ribsandbeer.it The Brisket Milano – Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 65 028323479 – brisketmilano.com BBQ Hooligans Monza – via R. de Gradi, 8 0392326188 – facebook.com/barbecuehooligans BBQ All Stars Lissone (MB) – viale della Repubblica, 72 3273676045 – bbqallstars.it Ines Beer B Q Costa Masnaga (LC) – via Nuova Valassina, 10 (SS36) 031856668 – inesbeerbq.com Q-King Barbecue Torino – corso Regina Margherita, 440 3498020980 – facebook.com/q.king.AmericanBarbecue La Mangiatoia Steak House Alassio (SV) – via Leonardo da Vinci, 2 – 0182640053 Pep’s Steakhouse Trieste – Via del Teatro, 1 (Teatro Verdi) 0402454882 – peps-steakhouse.com Da Giacomino Quarrata (PT) – viale Europa, 240 – 05731798096
Telese Terme Caserta
Lecce
GIUSEPPE IANNOTTI
Kresios - Telese Terme (BN) via San Giovanni, 59 0824940723
LAMB AND MUSHROOMS
Dogana Golosa Caserta – frazione San Leucio – S.S. Sannitica, 113 0823301508 – doganagolosa.it Re Artù Trani (BT) – piazza Cesare Battisti, 3 0883582033 – 3406979041 – birreriareartu.com La Brace Steak House Partanna (TP) – piazza Archimede – 3296453710 Pith Smokehouse Cagliari – viale Regina Margherita, 10 – 3426190918 – facebook.com/PITHSmokehouse
Santa Cristina d'Aspromonte
BBQ CATERING SERVICES Partanna
NINO ROSSI
Qafiz - Santa Cristina d’Aspromonte (RC) loc. Calabretto - 0966878800 - qafiz.it
LAMB WITH ARTICHOKE, CRUSTACEAN JUS AND LICORICE
SPQR Grillers Roma – spqrgrillers.it Phil’s Barbecue Pisa – philsbbq.it – phils@philsbbq.it The Barktenders Varese – thebarktenders.com – info@thebarktenders.com
STORIES
WHAT'S HAPPENING ABROAD, WHILE ITALY FALLS IN LOVE WITH GRILLING? The phenomenon exploded in the twentieth century in the southern United States, with an important current in Chicago, further north. Lexington, North Carolina, self-proclaimed "barbecue world capital", has a ratio of more than one specialized restaurant per thousand inhabitants. It is estimated that, from 1952 to present day, America produces (and sells) an average of almost 20 thousand grills a day: in the US, families change their barbecues often, every 2/3 years. In Europe, however, we tend to keep the same model for generations. The most interesting markets are Scandinavia, England and Germany. But Eastern Europe is also growing, especially Poland and Russia. The most important communicators in this respect are Steven Raichlen, author of the best-selling book The Barbecue Bible, defined by Oprah Winfrey "the gladiator of the grills". And Jamie Purviance, sponsored by Weber-Stephen, the multinational company founded in 1952 by pioneer George Stephen. But the barbecue has an increasing number of supporters among chefs, from the Argentine nomad (who also has an oceanfront restaurant in Miami) Francis Mallmann, revered author of "One Fire. 100 recipes", to American Sean Brock from Husk in Charleston, South Carolina, creative evangelist of country's southern ingredients. And the technique is spreading beyond borders: in Singapore the very popular Burnt Ends by Dave Pynt, is a modern Australian barbecue restaurant. In the center of St. Petersburg there's Smoke BBQ, the creature of the thirty year old Alexey Burov, a man who has traveled far and wide in Texas and North and South Carolina to teach the Russians the wonders of brisket, beef or veal cuts, and currently the most upscale recipe of the kind.
barbecue –– Guizzardi points out –– is that we do not need to put too many sauces on our meats; in America they have 3/4 of beef breeds; we boast twenty. Animal biodiversity is sufficient, we don’t need to add strong flavours.». It must be said that our chefs like to put everything in the barbecue: bread, pizza, savoury biscuits. Massimiliano Poggi in his restaurant in Trebbo di Reno (Bologna) slightly heats the bbq, moistens sheets of baking paper and bakes tortellini over them. A few kilometres away, Aurora Mazzucchelli in the Marconi restaurant goes beyond the ubiquitous tomini cheeses and smokes ricotta, which she then serves in chapatti (thin disks of Indian bread) made of hemp flour. In short, no food is forbidden on the bbq, not even desserts and fruit. The passion for cooking on the barbecue is a sort of neo-primitive motion that’s overwhelming hyper blazoned avant-garde artists like Massimiliano Alajmo, who has at least one electric and gas barbecue in each of his restaurants. Or Massimo Bottura, who has just opened Gucci Osteria in Florence and who is serving Chianina hotdogs:
THE GURUS
GIANFRANCO LO CASCIO
LEARNING THE SCIENCE OF FIRE
Insiders can draw lots of inspiration from the current snapshot of the barbecue situation in Italy. We’re in the middle of a BBQ4ALL.IT something big. I founded BBQ4All eleven years ago and I never stopped circulating knowledge. It’s proven fact that before BBQ4All Italy was virgin territory in regard to barbecue and grilling. It was in general considered simply as Sunday cooking”. A pro Grill Master is aware if the scientific thinking behind cooking processes: thermodynamics, biologic processes that assist meat cooking procedures, and lastly the long and mandatory path to becoming a grilling specialist. His playing field is wide and diversified, he does not disdain immersion circulators, ultrasound, daring dry aging, and by the same token he gets his hands dirty with charcoal grilling, drenched
GAMBERO ROSSO
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with smoke and stirs amid flames, steel and cast iron. In the course of the last decade, several tens of thousands of participants have attended our course. Classes are sold out four months in advance. Our Facebook Community exceeds 100,000 followers. We provide true value using a very powerful tool: education in the form of entertainment. The 7,000 copies of my book “Becoming a Grill Master” sold quickly. The second edition has already been pre-ordered by thousands of people. We will continue to spread our philosophy, without trying to be accepted by the Italian food community. Sadly, there are those who still struggle to recognize the techniques of fire grilling as one of the possible expressions of gastronomic maturity. Not everyone is ready for the concept of “haute cuisine”. But everyone, aside from those torn by ethical choices, go crazy for a perfectly grilled steak, particularly if cooked over hardwood embers. “Cooked well” and “well done” are essentially two very different concepts…
MARCH 2018
STORIES – BARBECUE ITALIAN-STYLE
BROS’ AND FLORIANO PELLEGRINO. GRILLING GROWS IN PUGLIA In drawing a stylistic thread of the best culinary youth means At Bros', nowadays, for convenience sake, the barbecue used playing with fire. Fire in the anthropological sense of the term, is in the Japanese style of the robatayaki, with refractory stone: the source of heat and first cooking tool, epochal passage in the “Foods don’t cook in contact with the coals, but next to it, with relationship between man and food. Fire comes back as a new indirect heat, as we do too, and the great Sardinian grillers do too. instinct in the hands of young cooks raised on gastrovac techExcept the Japanese – as my brother reported during his training nique. Thanks to fire, contact is restored with the imponderable, at Ryugin in Tokyo – meats are skewered with thin steel skewers”. with the primitive element, with roots that go back thousands And what about the coals? “We had started cooking with charof years. coal briquettes, but that turned out to be too costly. So, we found In sifting through the Salento origins of taste, the mantra of Florian excellent solution with a totally natural coal product made ano Pellegrino and his Bros' (the place that has discombobulated in Calabria. As a starter we use olivewood branches, something the historic centre of Lecce, in addition to his study of rancid and that’s traditionally done in Salento, or we use morteddha (myrtle acid, which caused so much media sensation), is the use of embranches), which we use to create smoke at the end of every bers that lend his cookery a peculiar style. In this part of Puglia preparation”. Setting the spark of tradition for Pellegrino (and his in particular Murgia, where the use of fire is traditionally found brigade) is the experience abroad: “At Claude Bosi (at the time in the area’s typical fornello ovens, the area’s cultural heritage. working at Hibiscus, ed.) I learned the correct approach: he is the For this reason, apprenticeship with maestro Berasategui – in the world’s best in cooking meat, his “fridge” is world-known. In genBasque Country the "asador" culture reaches levels of quality diferal, the method by which the French work with meat is what ficult to replicate elsewhere – has probably sown in an already sets the highest standard, also because they have favourable fertile soil the germ of an instinctive and blowhard technique. laws. Here the law prevents us, for example, to keep meats with Floriano, with the sureness of his 27 years, brings to the table feathers in the cells”. The coals that contaminate with life the relia quail in two (but also three) services, which is a masterpiece gion of classicism: in the case of the above-mentioned quail, the of syncretism. "We only cook whole animals on the barbecue", table is served the breast first, smoked with miso; then a leit motif already heard in the kitchens of other very valuable comes the glazed thighs dipped in a parsley juice; talents (think #bestieintere project appeared on the tables of and finally, the carcass served with an orthodox Mazzo, Retrobottega and Trippa), and that here recalls to familiar Port reduction, “whether meat or fish, we don’t farmhouse heritage: “My Grandmother cooked game this way. discard anything”. Respect the animal: the We would score the final part of the body of the woodcock and cuisine of the future passes here, too. In everything that dripped out, net of waste, we picked up to make addition to the fire. crostini, like the Tuscans do". — Pina Sozio
MARCO AGOSTINI
THE ITALIAN TAKE ON BBQ. IMMEDIATELY IN FIRST PLACE Italians are a unique people in the
a market that has now been growing for two years.
world, full of both excesses and
Italians thus discovered that the bbq, in its broader
strong contradictions. It should not
meaning, was something more than the simple "grilling" it was asso-
be surprising then that the evolu-
ciated to until a short time ago; and they literally fell in love with the
tion of the barbecue has also been
unsuspected potentials that made it an expression of cuisine that's
different here than in the rest of
absolutely equal to others (as well as the sense of sharing and ag-
Europe. Only a few years ago Italy
gregation it was known for). This generated a huge market in con-
was a nation proudly in defense of a rural history. This heritage was
stant growth: both in terms of supply for the final consumer and the
made of "furnacelle" and piles of wood in flames from early morning
opportunities for those working in the field. To this we need to add
to produce a bucket of embers. In respect to the new North Euro-
the cultural heritage that's always associated us Italians to good food
pean trends that for thirty years have mimicked American cooking
and fine dining, which is giving birth to an interpretation, an Italian
habits born in the Fifties. In the first years of this decade Italy sud-
way of barbecuing. A mirror of this phenomenon is the barbecue
denly woke up and wanted to as quickly as possible make up for
competition niche where Italy started as Cinderella three years ago
all the lost time. So it was all a flourish of dedicated public events,
and today is winning the first positions throughout Europe. What
courses, catering activities, but also books and television shows,
Italy can say about barbecue is however part of a story that has just
without counting the greater availability of tools and accessories for
begun, that's for sure...
BBQ HANGOUT
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STORIES
NEW OPENING. IN THE NAME OF THE BBQ FEDERICO DELMONTE OPENS ACCIUGA IN ROME
cold-minced meat that’s cooked on the barbecue with lots of bbq sauce. Not too far away, Marco Stabile of restaurant Ora d’Aria in Florence always uses it in reverse searing mode, “cauterising,” that is, the steak served for two people. He bakes it first at 52° C in a Rational oven for 6 hours, then finishes cooking it over the coals in the barbecue for 5/8 minutes, extinguishing the fire with olive leaves that help flavour the meat. It’s scary how good it is. If the high temperature fever is not exploding completely in the kitchens of Italian restaurants, it is above all due to the cumbersome dimensions of the container. But, even here, there are plans to reduce the size with miniaturizations such as the Green egg, barbecues built on the model of the kamado with blast furnace bricks and equipped with a venting chamber. It is more and more used by chefs to smoke and quickly grill single portions, think Cesare Battisti (Ratanà), Diego Rossi (Trippa), Viviana Varese (Alice) in Milan, Nino Rossi (Qafi z) in Aspromonte. Then there are those who have tailor-made barbecues: Marco Ambrosino (28 Posti, Milan) a type of Josper which miraculously fits into the tiny Navigli
MICHELE RUSCHIONI
For the first time at the helm of his own restaurant in the Eternal City (and again chef entrepreneur after Vicolo del Curato in his hometown Fano, and after experience as employee in Rome at Settembrini and Chinappi), Federico Delmonte opens Acciuga offering a menu which will make extensive use of grilled cooking. Federico Delmonte and barbecue. What role will grilling have in your new kitchen? I carry with me the tradition of a territory that’s very tied to grilling. At Acciuga I’ll work with a methane-fuelled covered barbecue with five burners. This is a very versatile instrument: you can grill directly or indirectly, sear vegetables, cook whole fish and pieces of meat. I will use it very much. Want to share some tricks of the trade? Attentive temperature control is important to manage cooking to perfection, thanks to the parts that protect the flame from fat drippings, which come back in the form of steam. If the barbecue releases smoke, you’re doing something wrong: the perfect cooking with clean flavours preserves the right balance between fat and moisture of the product. How will you use it? I may use it to flavour fish stocks, for example. I also have cast iron pans to cook in. I may sear radicchio in it, placing the pans at 350°C for 40 seconds with the lid closed... All I have to add is a particular vinegar (my passion) and the dish is ready. A recipe for the Spring? A grilled fresh cuttlefish drizzled with a thread of quality olive oil, black tea, a couple of fresh fava beans, a handful of cherry tomatoes, tomato vinegar and a little marjoram. — Livia Montagnoli
THE 3 COMMANDMENTS OF THE TRUE PITMASTER
For Americans, barbecuing is a real religion and, like any self-respecting religion, it has its own rites, dogmas, saints and some demons always lurking and ready to induce the pitmaster BRACIAMIANCORA.COM to face endless temptations. It is enough to recite the first three commandments of this credo to understand why the American barbecue arrived so late in Italy (and has struggled to conquer presence in the menus of our restaurants). 1. Always respect the low&slow approach. That is, cook for a long time at low temperatures. 2. Always smoke with conviction. The smoke, which so bothers your wife, is considered a real ingredient. 3. Put the salt mixed with some spices on the meat before cooking: you can, you should, and makes everything better. Now take an average Italian weekend griller and explain that he has to abandon his old habits and try to follow these three simple rules instead. Then grab the popcorn and enjoy the reaction. Four hours for grilling rosticciana? Use small pieces of
GAMBERO ROSSO
wood to make sausages more intriguing? Put salt and some other spices on a T-bone steak before cooking? Anathema, excommunication and sacrilege! The Italic belief that in the kitchen we should never take lessons from anyone has raised barriers that the American barbecue has struggled to deal with. The fact is that in Italy we are excellent grillers, but as pitmasters we still have a long way to go. We are good at roasting sausages and steaks, but the concept of cooking with indirect heat, smoking and dry brining do not fall right into our DNA. Fortunately, for some years now the scenario has changed slightly. And we consider ourselves satisfied. Television shows, specialized blogs and social communities that debate correct cooking of ribs have helped generate curiosity. But if you ask me where to taste the best American barbecue in Italy I would not be able to send you to any restaurant. Or at least, not yet. Almost everyone is obliged to come to unavoidable compromises in order to maintain the balance between profit and supply. I am convinced that the real taste can be found in some garden of one of Braciamiancora's followers who decides to spend 10 hours cooking pork shoulder and then pulling it and dousing it in homemade barbecue sauce.
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STORIES – BARBECUE ITALIAN-STYLE
STEVEN RAICHLEN GRILLS ITALY. AMERICAN BBQ GURU NOW ON GAMBERO ROSSO CHANNEL Former food critic, TV star, but above found in barbecuing his best form of awaiting the new Gambero Rosso Channel program featuring Steven Raichlen, the king of the grill: a pro conceiving
where: La Capanna di Eraclio, Codigoro (FE) – topic: Eel – recipes: grilled eel with vin santo teriyaki sauce; pizza with grilled clams
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who has completely revolutionized of
Maria Grazia Soncini
Massimo Spigaroli
where: Antica Corte Pallavicina, Polesine Zibello (PR) – topic: pork – recipes: pork roast with culatello and provolone; pears and amaretti biscuits
expression. Audiences are eagerly
way
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all a lover of good food who has
the
ON GAMBERO ROSSO CHANNEL STEVEN RAICHLEN MEETS WITH...
Lorenzo Cogo
where: El Coq, Vicenza – topic: octopus recipes: grilled octopus with herbs, grappa flambé; elderwood fired eggplant with roasted piadina
the
barbecue in the United States and someone who has made
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quality of food, ingredient research and development of innovative
Markus Holzer
where: chalet Jora-Cervo, San Candido (BZ) recipes: roast venison pancetta, red currant sauce with pumpkin and smoked roasted vegetables
techniques his mantra. Cookbooks, TV shows, and even a Barbecue
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University at the Broadmoor Resort in Colorado Springs: Raichlen's
Fabrizio Nonis
where: in a homestead fogolar in Carnia (mountains surrounding Udine) – topic: Varhackara from Timau (meat pesto) – recipes: grilled cheese sandwich; BLT salad
curriculum is studded with success, adventures and activities that have led him to travel all over the world. A passion pursued with commitment,
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perseverance and determination. The same tenacity that years ago, during University, allowed him not to be discouraged by the comments of his teacher: «He told me I'd never make a living writing about food. Thinking back makes me smile.» In the new program, "Steven Raichlen grills Italy", completely in English and subtitled in Italian, the barbecue guru heads off to discover all the regional Italian traditions related to the grill accompanied by Weber bbq, sponsor of the show: «Strolling around the hamlets of Basilicata, I realized how many great butchers were present. The grill in Italy is used indded, it's more of a homecooking practice and lesser frequent in restaurant dining. But it's there. And it's very good.» Thus begins Steven's tour among many small and large cities of central and northern Italy, interacting with chefs, breeders, fishermen, farmers. Artisans engaged in the creation of local products and dishes, which Steven reinterprets in his own way, but «always with the utmost respect for tradition.» The most beautiful city? «Venice, a magical place». Many unique experiences during the tour, starting with eel fishing: «A great experience. I cooked them Italian style, simply grilled with some salt; and then I made them teriyaki with a vin santo twist». And then visiting pig farms in Polesine Zibello, in the Rialto Market in Venice shpping for fish and polenta, in Florence to eat the Fiorentina steak, in Cuneo for the lamb. The show highlights contrasts and similarities between the American barbecue culture––made of sauces and no side dishes––and the Italian one, which is lighter: «Normally the only seasoning is a little extra-virgin olive oil and lemon». A common element? «Both Italians and Americans use the fireplace a lot. During the tour, for example, Massimo Spigaroli of Antica Corte Pallavicina prepared duck cooked over firewood, and it was exceptional!» A tireless traveler, Raichlen managed to find time between restaurants and shooting to visit the Pinacoteca di Brera, the Duomo, all before leaving for France and then returning to his home in Miami. – Michela Becchi
Dario Parascandolo
where: Hotel Danieli, Venice – topic: fish recipes: grilled swordfish with fried capers; seared branzino with saffron vinaigrette
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Erik Barin
where La Mucca Pazza, Cuneo – topic: lamb recipes: lamb roast with mint chimichurri; bread and chocolate pudding with rum
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Mino Pati
where: Terrazza Castello Portofino, Portofino (GE) topic: red prawns – recipes: grilled prawn skewers with lemon leaves; braised and grilled calamari with bread crumble and pesto cream
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Paolo Parisi
where: Lari (PI) – topic: chicken – recpies: butterflied chicken; grilled eggs and bread
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Luciano Ghinassi
where: Buca Lapi, Firenze – topic: Fiorentina steak recipes: caveman's T-bone with sweet pepper sauce; grilled veal pot roast with rosemary brulée and gorgonzola cream broadcast on Sky 412 starting March 5th – every Monday – at 9:30pm in collaboration with:
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STORIES
10 INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS TO FOLLOW IF YOU LOVE BARBECUE
THE ILLUSTRATOR'S TRAIT When I was in Texas I often ate at barbecue joints,
and
observing
the big food trays I noticed that the meat, the condiments and the classic side dishes of the barbecue milieu were mostly included in a red, white and green palette. It seemed natural to me therefore, since this issue addesses barbecue trends in Italy, that I leveraged that memory and composed a three-color barbecue motif for this month's cover. For the magazine layout instead I designed a fork-crown, as a tongue in cheek reference to the ennoblement of Italy's current grilling trend, in a bit of a cartoon-like digression. Barbecue is a cheerful cuisine afterall, lively as the flame that fuels it. — Marcello Crescenzi
The mist used hashtags are #barbecue, #bbq, #beef and #churrasco, but where are these most used? In the U.S., followed closely by Brazil. We’re not surprised to see it’s the male users to post the most on the subject. This is the general Instagram outlook which, as we know, calls the shots in terms of setting trends. We collected the top 10 Instagram accounts to follow – we excluded the experts we already mentioned (only Francis Mallmann has 424K followers). @bbqandbottles 275K follower They fell in love with grilling in Dubai, then they started feeding their passion wherever they travelled, from Australia to Argentina. They are Canadians who currently represent a community sharing pics and videos of grilled foods, often paired with craft beer, bourbon or wine.
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@meatstock 143K follower A travelling food
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kitchen. In Sardinia, Roberto Petza (S’Apposentu, Siddi) has designed his own barbecue based on a Japanese yakitori model, a prototype that he has also replicated for his colleague Alessandro Negrini (Aimo e Nadia, Milan) with which he roasts, smokes or braises pork loins, lamb shanks, deconstructed suckling pigs by using olivewood, elm and mastic, «because – he explains – charcoal is associated with hydrocarbons which are often difficult to trace». An inconvenience which Samnite Giuseppe Iannotti (Kresios, Telese Terme) has solved by buying the Bincho-tan from Japan. This is an expensive “white” fossil charcoal that triggers an internal combustion, but that avoids flooding the food and the kitchen with smoke. This comes with an advantage that allows him to enrich skins of lambs, monkfish and amberjack with a crisp crust that sends his guests’ palate skyrocketing.
festival that touches New Zealand and Australia. The first leg (already covered) went to Auckland, then will hit Melbourne on 17 and 18 March, and Sydney on 5 e 6 May. The main attraction is barbecued meat, paired with country music and follow-up events. @franklinbbq 121K follower This is the Instagram account of Aaron Franklin’s venue, he is one of Texas’ biggest
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MINI GLOSSARY Charcoal barbecue Philologically, the modern barbecue is charcoal-stoked. It is easy to use but it takes time to evenly ignite the embers (about half an hour) and be careful to maintain a constant heat . Electric barbecue Electric powered bbqs produce "clean" heat ideal for cooking anywhere and in small spaces. Ideal for direct cooking, it is not very suitable for indirect cooking.
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grilling experts. According to Secondo Anthony Bourdain he makes the best brisket, one of the most famous Tesax BBQ dishes. @boomasbbq 72,7K follower Boom lives in Melbourne, and partecipates in grilling competitions, sharing his activity on Instagram along with tricks of the trade, including spice blends he uses to season his meats (and which are sold on his website).
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Gas barbecue This is the most modern and popular version. Easy to use just like a home stove or oven: click on the ignition button, adjust the temperature and in 10 minutes it will be ready for cooking. Gas, LPG and methane generate a clean heat that leaves no waste. Brisket Is a beef cut from the breast of the animal, and one of the most popular meat cuts, along with ribs (see later).
STORIES – BARBECUE ITALIAN-STYLE
@bbqlads 59,3K follower They love to eat, cook, write and share anything barbecuerelated. Three bbq bloggers share their meat and fish recipes and grilling knowledge.
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@melissa.cookston 54,6K follower This is among the few accounts that posts photos of veggies in addition to seafood, such as lobster, shrimp and scallops. Salivation increases when photos depict sauce-drenched chicken wings, or a perfectly grilled rack of lamb. The mastermind behind the account is entrepreneur Melissa Cookston.
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@la_barbecue 54,1K follower The account belongs to an Austin, TX venue (which is due to open a branch in Los Angeles, too) managed by LeAnn Mueller and wife Alison Clem. Scrolling through their feed you can chance upon experiments such as seafood paella, or smoked pasta quattro formaggi…
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@learningtosmoke 43,3K follower This sis the Instagram account of selfproclaimed bbq influencer Dan Phelps. Scrolling through his feed it’s impossible not to linger on images of his BBQ Maple Pork Belly Burnt Ends.
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@tuffystone 27,9K follower Tuffy Stone is a classically trained chef who fell in love with the barbecue. As the head chef at Cool Smoke, he is part of the team that actively participates in US grilling championships, and owner of three Q Barbeque restaurants in Richmond, Virginia.
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— Annalisa Zordan @myron.mixon 8 50,9K follower Myron is a celebrity chef, 4-time champion at the Barbecue World Championships and author of two grilling books. Following his Instagram feed, follwoers can be up to date with all the US grilling competitions he judges in.
Wood coals Suitable for controlled combustion in special environments with low oxygen content. It is similar to wood embers, but can be obtained in just 15/20 minutes. Wood briquettes Crushed and crumbled wood charcoal is reduced to a powder, which is then amalgamated with natural starches and cooked in an oven to obtain evenly shaped tiles. This method allows slow and constant combustion. Bear’s Paws Tools worn on knuckes with tips that basically serve to fray the pork cooked very slowly on the bbq (the legendary pulled pork).
Dutch Oven Large cast iron pot can be placed on the flame or on embers to make stews. Green Egg One of the most famous kamado brands (see later). Josper Spanish company that builds a coalfueled grill-oven by the same name The slogan is: the embers of the past, the speed of today. Kamado Bbq oven of Japanese derivation, whose interior is made of refractory bricks. It is also used for pizza and bread.
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Firewood Ancestral origin of fire grilling. Never cook on the flame, but on the embers: this is why the wood should be prepared a little in advance (one to two hours) so that it becomes embers. Times vary according to the type, size and degree of humidity of the wood. Pitmaster The person working at the barbecue. The name derives from the pits used in primordial cooking methods. Typically, today the pitmaster is a good and experienced bbq chef. Ribs Pork ribs, one of the most used meats and cuts cooked on the bbq.
GAMBERO ROSSO X SANNIO
BENEVENTO, SANNIO THE FORGE OF CAMPANIA WINES It is certainly the forge of Campanian wine with its eleven age in the bottle the aromatic profile is more balanced, thousand hectares of vineyards, and a production of six passing from essentially fermentative notes to aromas hundred thousand hectolitres. The Sannio Consorzio that are most likely related to the grape variety”. GerTutela Vini, established on February 5th, 1999 has for many, United States, China and Japan are the most years controlled the vineyards and the work of man in flourishing markets for the consortium, which exports that territory of the province of Benevento enclosed by 20% of its production abroad, while sales in Italy are the two mountain massifs of Taburno and Matese. At concentrated––beyond Campania––in Rome and Milan. the helm is wine producer “The most important acLibero Rillo, who togethtivity of the consortium er with the almost 400 is certainly self-promodirect members – divided tion, every year we carry WINE SUPPLY CHAIN IN NUMBERS between winemakers, out numerous activities wine producers winemakers and bottlers abroad and in Italy, we – takes care of the DOCG participate collectively More than 100 wine producers and bottlers Aglianico del Taburno, in the most important produced hectolitres the DOC Falanghina del trade fairs and we create Sannio and Sannio, and on average two educa(Aglianico del Taburno) the PGI Benevento. “The tional projects with jour(Falanghina del Sannio, Sannio) total production potennalists - says Libero - We tial of the Sannio area is are also working on zoneover 60 different types of wine now about seventy milfocus projects on terroir, Falanghina (2,500 planted hectares, 85% of lion bottles, of which just physiology of vines, study over six million are certiof yeasts and classificathe Italian surface); coda di volpe, greco, fiano, fied bottles of Falanghina aglianico, barbera del Sannio, piedirosso, sciscinoso tion of Sannio wines. All del Sannio PDO, six milthis information will be and sangiovese. lion Sannio PDO, and five included in our datahundred thousand Aglibase”. Constant rainfall, anico del Taburno DOCG. To these are added almost droughts, storms and hail, effects of a crazy climate ten million bottles claimed at Benevento PGI” says that requires consortiums and producers to adopt Libero Rillo. A great classic of Sannio is definitely Faenvironmentally sustainable protocols. This is how we langhina del Sannio, notoriously in the limelight in the make the switch to natural and biodynamic producearly Nineties, vinified pure in 1976 by Leonardo Mustiltion irreversible. “The Consortium has implemented a li, and today proposed both young or aged, and pleasspecific project called BioSannio, an alliance between ant for its ease in drinking. “Wines made from Falanghiwine producers, universities and research centres, assona grapes have shown an excellent aptitude for aging. ciations and public administrations and economic opThe study of the sensory profiles of Falanghina wines erators for the sustainable management of resources highlight how the bouquet of wine changes over time of the local cultural territory, with the aim of enhanc- remembers Libero - The sensory profile six months afing and promoting the Sannio are. Here we hope to ter the harvest is characterized by a strong dominance experiment under policies aimed at increasing susof banana, apple and pineapple, with a secondary floral tainability, the quality of the landscape and the wellnotes, plus apricot and peach. After 18 months of storbeing of citizens”.
8,000
600thousand one DOCG two DOP
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GAMBERO ROSSO X SANNIO
BY STEFANIA ANNESE
1. Libero Rillo
TERRITORY
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The province of Benevento is the most important wine-growing province of Campania, with its approximately 11,000 hectares of vineyard area, equal to 64% of the entire regional wine-growing area. The wine-growing area is mainly concentrated between the Valle Telesina and the Taburno and affects, to varying degrees, numerous Municipalities. Torrecuso (1416 hectares) is the Municipality of Sannio with the largest vineyard area. The municipal area with the highest incidence of vines per unit of municipal area is Castelvenere: 66.5% of the municipal territory is in fact invested in vineyards.
Vintaly | Sunday, April 15th – Wednesday, April 18th | Sannio Consorzio Tutela Vini | Pavillion B Regione Campania sanniodop.it
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VINITALY 2018. THEMES, KEY WORDS AND THE YEAR’S PREVIEWS April 15th-18th are the dates wine lovers have saved for some time now. For the few who still don’t know what we’re talking about, these are the days in which the 52nd edition of Vinitaly will take place. The appointment of Verona is not just a fair, but an articulation of the Italian wine world pointing to internationalization. The Italian regions and the departments of agriculture form the central core of the largest international wine review in Italy: these are their preview comments and how they will present their terroir
words by Stefania Annese and William Pregentelli
VINITALY SPECIAL
V
initaly is no longer just a trade fair, but a hub for the Italian wine that offers businesses and those who work in the field a number of services running throughout the year (Vinitaly International, OperaWine, Vinitaly Wine Club, Vinitaly International Academy, Wine2Wine). Compared to all this, the exhibition component is only the culminating moment. In addition, a publication was added in 2017: “5 Star Wines: The Book”, the first field guide published by a wine fair, designed to offer operators an additional business tool. A business that this year is furthermore aided by a new digital consultation and research tool: an online catalog and interactive portal that facilitates wine searches for professionals. Last year the Veronafiere pavilions hosted 4,300 exhibitors from 30 countries, stands were assaulted by an audience of 128thousand wine professionals, 48thousand of which (37.5%) coming from 141 countries: an increase of 8% compared to the 2016 edition. The growth in foreign presence is not only among visitors, but also among exhibitors: this year the International Wine Hall (Hall D) will be enriched by a collective of cellars from Croatia and a stand from Georgia, which will set up its own spaces with the traditional qvevri terracotta amphorae. In addition to these will also be old and new exhibitors from France, Spain, Portugal, Azerbaijan, Argentina, Australia, Hungary and the United States. There will also be no lack of liquor on show: Pisco from Peru, a Japanese collective dedicated to sake and –– absolute novelty –– liqueur drinks even hailing from Ethiopia. The spaces dedicated to organic, biodynamic and artisanal producers are also in expansion, and hosted in Hall 8. Among the most popular stands of the event will include ViViT (Vigne Vignaioli Terroir), the collective of FIVI (Italian Federation of Independent Winegrowers) and VinitalyBio. Precisely for this reason the stands dedicated to this branch will grow in surface space.
offer a rich program of guided tastings in addition to the Evo Bar, an area dedicated to the winning oils of the Sol d’Oro international competition, now in its 19th edition. But beyond business, Vinitaly will lend the opportunity of experiencing food and wine at 360°. This will be possible thanks to the program that Veronafiere has designed for Vinitaly and The City (April 13th-16th). The most fascinating places in the historic centre of Verona (there will also be initiatives in Bardolino and Valeggio sul Mincio) will constitute an itinerary in which each stop will have a strong regional connotation. At each stop individual territories will propose their art, places, food and wine products, notable characters and artists. Do not miss the extensive guide on eating and
PIEDMONT
Our priority is to further strengthen the image and international allure of Piedmontese wine, a reality GIORGIO FERRERO that in 2017 produced over 1.8 (Councilor for million hectoliters of designation Agriculture, Hunting of origin wine, on over 34 and Fishing) thousand hectares of vineyards, for an export which is close to one billion euros. It is strategic for us to combine our great wine labels with the excellence of Piedmontese agri-food: cheese, meats, rice, fruit and vegetables. The collective area in the Piedmont Pavilion will therefore be representative of the region’s many excellences. We will then continue with the restaurant experience: the only one organized by a Region in the event. The restaurant is an important chance to taste and learn about unique and important wines and local products. Among this year’s novelties, we will develop different thematic areas for comparison and tasting, thus further enhancing the native grapes: Dolcetto, Cortese, Grignolino, Freisa, Brachetto and many others.
The most important Italian wine showcase with over 4,000 exhibitors and visitors and buyers hailing from 141 nations
LIGURIA
Ligurian wine is exported all over the globe and, since wineries never reach large dimensions, the synergy STEFANO MAI between them becomes essential to (Councilor for strengthen the sector. Vinitaly thus Agriculture, becomes the showcase through Hunting and Fishing, which one can have a global vision Aquaculture, Parks of the whole territory. and Biodiversity, Ties with the territory, presence Inland Development, of numerous native vines, difficult Hiking and Leisure) morphology of the Region: these are the main characteristics that we want to discuss through tastings, presentations, graphic ideas, colours and images that we will bring to the event. The Liguria pavilion has been completely renovated in its structure and in its graphic design.
Moreover, like every year, simultaneously with Vinitaly, Sol&Agrifood will take place. The International Agri-Food Quality Exhibition is a showcase for pasta, salami, confectionery specialties, beer, coffee and above all extra-virgin olive oil, the true protagonist of the pavilion. The latter will
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STORIES
PROSPECT VINITALY, ACCORDING TO DIRECTOR MANTOVANI It will be an increasingly foreign-oriented Vinitaly, linked to the food sector and increasingly focused on business. These are at least the trends that can be identified by the latest actions put in place by VeronaFiere. We talked about this with VeronaFiere Director General, Giovanni Mantovani.
We can now safely say that after 52 years, Vinitaly has reached full maturity with a strong presence abroad? The numbers and facts confirm it. This year’s edition is characterized by strong demand of wineries wanting to be present at Vinitaly. Both Italian and international, everybody wants to participate. For this reason, we have also expanded the International Wine Hall surface space by 50%, which has
already yielded a 25% increase in participating international wineries. In addition to the historical participants, there will be a number of new additions, such as Croatia, Georgia and Ethiopia. Beyond the numbers, what we’re most interested in is mostly highlighting this positive trend. Important operations have been completed in the last few months. The agreement
with Fiere di Parma and the purchase of Bellavita. How will this alliance make its debut at the next Vinitaly? We will work to attract food industry professionals to the world of wine. Synergy between these two worlds will help our worldwide presence. As far as Bellavita, we will strengthen our international presence and the Made in Italy brand in the world, through other important
THE WORLD OF ITALIAN WINE SEEN FROM THE REGIONS’ COUNCILORS FOR AGRICULTURE
LOMBARDY «Consortiums and wine producers respond well to consumer demand and needs; same goes for the markets, which are increasingly requesting quality and organic wine-making» PIEDMONT «Piedmont is a Land of Beauty: including the vineyard landscapes recognized by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites» LIGURIA «The territorial formation, its ruggedness and the presence of heroic viticulture makes our region particularly interesting for those seeking excellence and emotional experiences» UMBRIA «We share how the “Green Region” will renew itself and how we intend to invest in quality and identity. Wine, art, environment, tourism: an integrated way of communicating our region» CAMPANIA «Wine here is always legendary! In Verona we will talk about our sunkissed soils thanks to tastings, photographs, videos and a national radio broadcast» SARDINIA «Our strength is the strong cultural and emotional impact of our landscape, of the localities and the wines that represent each. And an increasingly stronger team of wine SICILY «A region that bewilders with its most known terroirs as well as the lesser known ones; plus the area’s famous and unknown grape This is a region that boasts millennia of history and show the way for a bright future, filled with opportunities» GAMBERO ROSSO
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VINITALY SPECIAL
events in seven locations: London, Chicago, Toronto, Mexico City, Amsterdam, Warsaw and Bangkok. Above all, we will pay extra attention to the distribution channel focus of Bellavita and which we consider essential: Ho.Re. Ca. The Bellavita Expo format envisions a series of activities scheduled before, during and after the Verona event, including workshops, tutorials, debates and chef masterclasses.
LOMBARDY
Our goal is to raise awareness in regard to all the Lombard labels, which are part of a GIOVANNI FAVA high quality wine heritage. (Councilor for Agriculture) With our region’s 5 Docg, 22 Doc and 15 Igt, we have a significant pedigree. The native grape varieties of Lombardy have strong territorial ties and this is the image we want to convey. The policy adopted by the Lombardy Region to encourage quality production has yielded positive results. Consortia and producers have been able to respond well to consumer demand, as well as to markets that increasingly focus on quality and organic wines. What’s new this year? I would like the image of Lombardy at Vinitaly to remain a surprise to be discovered.
But, back to Vinitaly. What does it say that there will be more space for Vivit and Fivi? Does this mean there’s a bigger need for artisanal winemaking? Surely there’s a trend in regard to sustainability and organic oenology. Consumers are increasingly conscientious in their wine choices, in the US and in Europe alike. Vinitaly must register and respond to these growing needs.
ALTO ADIGE «This is the year of Pinot, a grape capable of representing the local wine production at its best»
TRENTINO
TRENTINO «We are the region with the highest attention to the environment and sustainability, and we have certified our entire wine production» FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA «Our identity is composed of extreme biodiversity and climate fluctuations, which make our precious wines unique» VENETO «Quality, organization, efficiency: this is our recipe to consolidate our Italian wine export leadership» EMILIA ROMAGNA «We’re attentive in regard to environmental, social and economic sustainability, these are the key elements for the future of agriculture» ABRUZZO «Our strength is giving the proper value to the area, its native grapes and a new generation of winemakers and wine entrepreneurs»
ALTO ADIGE
The Italian market for South Tyrol is very important: 75% of South Tyrolean wine is ARNOLD SCHULER consumed in the country. (assessore Provinciale This is why Vinitaly is the Dipartimento Agricoltura, best opportunity to meet our Foreste, Protezione Civile partners. This year we host 76 e Comuni) winemakers: a good number if you think that in total the South Tyrolean wineries (between estates and bottlers) are 210. Each producer will present their new vintages and new labels. This year we also focus mainly on the two Pinot wines, both red and white: two varieties that strongly characterize our essence.
PUGLIA «We invest in modernizing vineyards and an international outlook. Made in Puglia hence becomes a certified quality trademark» BASILICATA «In the name of Matera 2019, Basilicata at Vinitaly will be a compact team. Wine, gastronomy, culture and terroir will be the faces of a region capable of communicating and triggering emotions»
GAMBERO ROSSO
We aim to be always present and clearly visible in the leading showcase of Italian wine in the MICHELE world. And we aim to increase DALLAPICCOLA the business for both wineries (Provincial Councilor and grappa producers. Our true for Agriculture, peculiarity is the environmental - and Forests, Tourism and therefore productive - mountain Promotion, Hunting and context, which offers absolutely Fishing) extraordinary climatic characteristics. Our strengths are sustainability and wholesomeness of the productions. In the myriad of extraordinary labels, both among reds and whites we must absolutely mention Trentodoc, the sparkling wine that’s so representative of the area, and on which we are investing a lot. We will be present at the event with 65 wineries belonging to the Trentino region, 48 of which coordinated by the Consorzio Vini del Trentino. In addition to the presence of the wineries, there will also be the Trentodoc Institute, the Grappa Protection Institute and the Agricultural Institute of San Michele with the E. Mach Foundation.
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Did the formula “more business inside, more events outside” implemented last year work? Will it be replicated? Absolutely. For this reason, Vinitaly and the City will start two days ahead of the event’s opening: in the historic centre of Verona activities will begin April 13th until April 16th. But it doesn’t end at that: winelovers will continue the festivities well into the following weekend, April 20, 21 and
22 with the same Vinitaly and the City format in Bardolino, Soave and Valeggio sul Mincio, 3 of the areas comprised between Lake Garda and the Verona hinterland.the Verona hinterland.
in order to avoid overlap. The anticipated moment of training, focused on international markets and digital communication, has now become wine2wine (the forum of Veronafiere taking place in December, ed), while Vinitaly is, and must remain, a moment reserved for the encounter between wineries and buyers. For this reason, we’re also strengthening the presence of international buyers.rs.
And what about inside the Festival perimeter? nside, space will be given above all to wineries and wine industry businesses. We are trying to differentiate events as much as possible
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA
VENETO
We aim to consolidate the growth of our wine sector and its international vocation. In the last 5 years, the value of regional wine exports has recorded a 56% increase thanks to two strategic levers: quality and our ability to work as a team. This is the direction we must continue to work. Marketing of our region’s wines CRISTIANO is based on the deep conviction SHAURLI (and awareness) that these can be (Councilor for produced here only, in our land so Agriculture and rich in biodiversity. In terms of latest Forestry) news, we will work until the last minute: Vinitaly will be four intense days, chock with events, shows and tastings aimed, for the most part, at industry professionals. There will also be a prestigious showcase of labels of the new Doc Friuli, launched during the last Vinitaly edition.
This year at Vinitaly our aim is to consolidate the leadership at national level: the Veneto region has indeed GIUSEPPE PAN confirmed its supremacy in Italian (Councilor for wine exports, exceeding 2 billion euros Agriculture, Hunting in value (out of 5.6 billion national and Fishing) total) with an increase in 9% compared and PAOLO to the previous year. Promotion of our DONADINI (of the winegrowing policy has focused on Economic Promotion the quality of the wines and the image and Internationalization of the production territories. Our Department - Food pavilions will have external images and Agriculture that portraying the most evocative Promotion of the viticultural territories of the Veneto Economic Promotion) region with very high definition photographs. In Pavillion 4 we will have a two-storey stand where guided tastings will take place in collaboration with Ais and Uvive. A day will be dedicated to the wine routes with the presentation of itineraries.
EMILIA ROMAGNA
This year the primary goal of the presence of Emilia-Romagna at Vinitaly is renewing the image of a cohesive and qualified presence of our wineries, with a particular attention to environmental, social and economic sustainability. These are the elements on which SIMONA CASELLI the agriculture of the future will stand on. We (Councilor for aim to consolidate commercial spaces in the Agriculture, Hunting and domestic market and strengthen our presence Fishing) in traditional foreign markets such as the United Kingdom and the United States. To do this we need to participate in the most important world fairs, including this one in Verona. Another thing we are focusing on is our Via Emilia Wine & Food app. Among 2018 news, we will be in Verona with a completely new look, under the banner of environmental sustainability of our vineyards and more. A new image of the façade of the Emilia-Romagna Pavilion 1 with a new slogan: for now we won’t anticipate anything, waiting for you.
GAMBERO ROSSO
How? For months now, we have implemented a strong incoming action with main markets through direct involvement of over 200 experienced ambassadors, who come from the experience at Vinitaly International Academy in the world. In particular, we’re focusing on further increasing the presence of industry professionals and buyers from the U.S., Russia, as well as from Europe, including the UK despite the
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TRE BICCHIERI 2018 BEST ITALIAN WINES WITH GAMBERO ROSSO Gambero Rosso is present at Vinitaly (Pavillion 9 – C16 ) with a stand and a grand degustation Tre Bicchieri. The labels awarded on the 31st edition of the Italian Wines Guide – 436 labels reviewed with the highest recognition – will be the stars of the day at the Vinitalty tasting tables. As usual there will be Special Prizes awarded to the best red, best white, best bubbles and best dessert wine of the year; the Tre Bicchieri under 15 euro award, and the Tre Bicchieri Verdi, for wines produced from grapes grown under the organic or biodynamic regimen. An event that is open to all professionals, buyers and enthusiasts who will visit the international wine fair on Sunday, April 15th. Sunday, April 15th Open 11.30am - 4.30pm - Argento room (floor -1 Palaexpo, entrance A2)
Hillside winemakers
The precious vineyards tended by the Marsuret family, handed down from one generation to the next, are dotted about the hillsides and worked entirely by hand. Each vineyard has its own unique exposition, microclimate and soil composition which together form the quality that is Marsuret wines.
marsuret.it
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heavy burden of Brexit. Of course, the focus will remain on the Asian market, especially China. Furthermore, to foster demand and supply, we’re also working on a new tech tool, which will set a precedent. What is it and how will it help the wine business? It’s the evolution of the catalog, which means going digital and interactive. The Vinitaly Worldwide Book will therefore be a wine library:
a consultation tool in Italian, English and Chinese, where companies can enter their information. The platform will remain active throughout the year and will allow buyers and consumers to access information from any electronic device. During Vinitaly it will also be used to schedule matching with wineries. Data acquisition has been going on for some time and the goal will be having full membership of all participating exhibitors.
In the world of wine, what are the expectations in store for the new government? We will ask the new government to present Italy on international markets–with a step by step approach–as an integrated country-system. By now, the wheels are set in motion: the oeno-gastronomic heritage is now the country’s heritage. But more than the government, we need teamwork between Regions and Consortiums. — Loredana Sottile
OPERA WINE. THE BEST LABELS SELECTED BY WINE SPECTATOR Opera Wine is the event that opens the 52nd edition of Vinitaly, as it has been for six years now. Saturday, April 14, the halls of the Palazzo della Gran Guardia in Piazza Bra, located in front of the Arena, will host the wines of 107 Italian wineries selected by the prestigious American magazine Wine Spectator in the course of more than
UMBRIA
The wine of Umbria, which in recent years has grown and innovated itself by leveraging identity and the high quality of its products, is ready again this year to showcase at Vinitaly the strength and personality of its FERNANDA products. Ours are quality wines that “speak” of the history of those who CECCHINI produce them and the place in which they are made. Drinking a glass of (Councilor for wine one savours in it––with love and passion of those working in the Agriculture) vineyard and in the cellar––the taste of something unique. This happens because the wine recalls the land of origin, the beauty of the landscape, the artistic and architectural heritage, typical dishes, local crafts and cultural events. We will continue to leverage our strengths: identity, unity and innovation, the key words that characterize our presence in Pavillion 2.
3,000 tastings performed during the year. The list (available on the website www.operawine.it) reflects how Italian wine is perceived abroad, with the vast majority of red wines (around 80%) and the rest distributed among sparkling wines, whites and dessert wines. The selection touches all the
ABRUZZO
This year, Abruzzo presents itself at Vinitaly in FILIPPO DIASCO style. Moreover, (Councilor for the oenological Agriculture) production in Abruzzo is a growing industry: it is the fifth Italian region for domestic production, with a yield of over 3 million hectoliters per year, of which more than half are controlled denomination of origin and geographical indication, with over 250 wineries. The main goal, therefore is continue on this growing trajectory. 2018 is furthermore an important year for Abruzzo’s wine industry, since it is the 50th anniversary of the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo controlled denomination of origin status. This year’s participation at Vinitaly will boast many new features which, we believe, will be much talked about. Starting from the collective consortium area, which this year will be completely renewed and expanded.
CAMPANIA
The Region aims to strengthen the Campania brand BRUNELLA on national and MERCADANTE international (Directorate General for markets. After a Agricultural, Food and successful 2017 Forestry Policies) worldwide, with a growth in exports (15% increase, according to Istat survey) we intend to further support over 200 wineries. Keeping the claim “Campania, where wine is legend”, we will present our best wines and their territories in master classes for the international press. We will project videos featuring beautiful areas and landscapes of our Region, linked to the many products of our gastronomy. The Pavilion will have 2 tasting rooms for master classes and other events planned with the starring Consortiums. The central area will become richer in communication with a photographic exhibition portraying vineyards and other areas of interest in Campania.and other areas of interest in Campania.
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Italian regions, among the most represented, of course, are Tuscany (25 labels), Piedmont (16) and Veneto (13). In addition to a bigger space, the novelty of this seventh edition will be the presence of 16 “newcomers”: Marchesi di Barolo, Prunotto (Piedmont); Mamete Prevostini (Lombardy); Tenuta San Leonardo (Trentino); Bortolotti, Maculan, Nino Franco (Veneto); Gravner (Friuli Venezia Giulia), Drei Donà (Emilia-Romagna), Boscarelli, Tenuta di Trinoro (Tuscany); Quintodecimo (Campania); Leone De Castris (Puglia; Feudi del Pisciotto, Pietradolce, Serraglia (Sicily).
VINITALY SPECIAL
OLI D’ITALIA 2018 OF GAMBERO ROSSO AT SOL BEST EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL AWARDS. Not only wine. In fact, in Verona, in the same venue where Vinitaly will take place, there will be time for Italian extra virgin olive oil, where the Olive Oil Exhibition (Sol) will be dedicated. This will be a perfect opportunity to approach one of the key products of Italy’s gastronomic and agri-food tradition. Like wine, olive oil embodies the territories and narrates stories of the people who live there. Monday, April 16th, in the early afternoon in the Sala Vivaldi of PalaExpò, Gambero Rosso will present a preview of the Oli d’Italia 2018 guide. This publication lists and rates the best extra-virgin olive oils made in Italy with about 500 companies reviewed and almost one thousand oils tasted. During the event, which gathers producers, journalists, politicians and operators, certificates will also be delivered to producers that have won the Special Awards 2018 with their oils. A party, therefore, but also an opportunity for discussion and stimulation for opinion makers and lawmakers, as well as a moment of exchange and dialogue for producers from different areas of the country.
PUGLIA
For the third consecutive year Basilicata at Vinitaly will be present with the hashtag LUCA BRAIA #BereBasilicata that blends (Councilor for Agriculture) the Horace quote “Nunc est bibendum” with the story of the territory through different communication channels. Vinitaly is a great showcase for us and an opportunity for comparison through shared communication of the quality of our wine. Finally we have a participatory format and an elegant setup characterizing us: besides the strategic location inside the Fair, we are also a community that will seize the great opportunity of Matera 2019: wine is the ambassador of our region in the world.
BASILICATA
For Puglia and our wineries Vinitaly is key opportunity. The support of promotion policies of the Puglia LEONARDO GIOIA Region, in collaboration with (Councilor for Unioncamere for this 52nd edition Agri-food Resources) of Vinitaly, aims to offer producers opportunities to expand networks and commercial outlets. We have launched a series of actions for the growth of the agricultural sector, whose aim is also informing consumers: among these is “Qualità Puglia” brand. Puglia at Vinitaly will have an entire space dedicated to the best white, red and rosé wines made from native grapes. Over 100 Apulian wine producers will be present in Verona, in a shared effort of participation in collaboration with the Puglia Region and the intent of setting up a common exhibition space.space.
SICILY
We believe in the importance of accompanying Sardinian winemaking enterprises in PIER LUIGI CARIA participating at Vinitaly, including (Councilor for Agriculture) in this new edition of the event. Our presence represents an important opportunity to promote the entire sector, also in light of the excellent results achieved by our wines in the latest edition. The goal this year will be to divulge our wine production of excellence in the Fair’s international context and, by the same token, working in an integrated way in order to present Sardinia with the correct strength in regard to wine exports. One of the innovative formulas of this year’s Sardinia stand will be the strong visual appeal to the landscape’s particulars, the island’s natural and cultural heritage. Our goal for 2018 will be a strong impact of the region in terms of the number of wineries present in the Collective Sardinia, which will be composed of over 70 estates.
SARDINIA
Vinitaly is the most important fair in the world of wine in Italy and among the most important in Europe. EDY BANDIERA Participating is essential for a region (Councilor like Sicily. It is no mystery that after for Agriculture) triggering a true Renaissance in the late 90s, nowadays Sicily has consolidated its position within the wine industry, but also in the ability to attract consumers. Communicating Sicily at Vinitaly is something that we entrust to our individual producers. On our part, we support winemakers and wine entrepreneurs with a simple message: we are a region that never ceases to amaze. We intend to bring to Vinitaly a number of ancient amphorae, some dating back to the period before Christ, others of some centuries ago, to testify not only the region’s ancient vocation of wine production, but also our geographic centrality.
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GAMBERO ROSSO X MONTEFALCO
MONTEFALCO, TERRITORY AMID WINE AND ART In Umbria there are about 13 thousand hectares of planted vineyards. Among these, about a thousand is dedicated to the wines of Montefalco, which embrace the entire territory of the Municipality and part of the territories of Bevagna, Gualdo Cattaneo, Castel Ritaldi and Giano dell’Umbria. The plots rolling softly along the hills, bring the cultivation altitude from 220m above sea level to 472. In the higher hills. We joined the President of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco, Amilcare Pambuffetti, to discuss the issue of denomination. “The Sagrantino is a grape variety boasting four centuries of history and only 25 years of DOCG - said the President - and its peculiarity is certainly the link that it maintains with the Montefalco territory. This is one of the very few Italian cities in which viticulture was practiced also within the urban center that preserves a circuit of historical vines needed to trace the area’s 15th century agricultural structure. The grape had almost disappeared from Umbrian vineyards in the Sixties and was recovered thanks to the efforts of a handful of winemakers, thus obtaining the recognition of the DOC in 1979, followed in 1992 by the DOCG appellation”. The Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco was born just two years after the recognition of the Denomination, in 1981. “The Consortium is responsible for the promotion of local wines and coordinating with local producers - continues Pambuffetti - with the added task of ensuring high production standards and to promote our denominations in the world. The social base has broadly expanded, enjoying the presence of high prestige wineries, some historically on the territory and others just recently emerging. We can currently count on 231 members of which 59 wineries“. What are the strategies planned for the promotion of the area? “There were many activities carried out in recent years, starting with Anteprima Sagrantino, but also virtual tastings and wine tours around the world. At the next Vinitaly we will announce a new project. The bond between art and Sagrantino, “Arte & Sagrantino” was strengthened thanks to the partnership between Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco, the San Francesco museum complex, the City of
GAMBERO ROSSO
Montefalco and the municipalituies belonging to the DOCG Montefalco Sagrantino. The projects developed over the course of time contributed to consolidate the relationship between art and wine producers, in a continued participatory effort that will be renewed in 2018 with the remodeling of the Francescan cellars and a prestigious exhibition on the masterpieces of the 14th century”. How is sustainability addressed by the wine producers in your area? “Since 2015 we have been carrying out a sustainable vineyard management project called Grape Assistance, over the years the model has acquired proselytes and achieving enviable results: reduction of the use of plant pharmaceuticals by 40%, saving on the total annual costs of about €200 per hectare compared to traditional approaches. The objective is to safeguard the environment and the final product, thanks to careful monitoring in the field, which detects both the current and future weather conditions and the plants state of health in real time, thus allowing only targeted intervention. Now this model has become an example for the Region that has decided to extend it - with the name Smart Weather - to all the cultivations in Umbria”. What are the future challenges for the Consorzio? We aim to involve young producers in a more active participation. Their contribution will be fruitful to develop promotion strategies that affect the web. The other challenge is technologies applied to viticulture: it is necessary to grow, be modern and in tune with the times in order to face the demands of the market and of climate change”.
TYPES OF MONTEFALCO WINES Here, under the Montefalco origin denomination, are five wine types: Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG (Sagrantino 100%), Montefalco Sagrantino Passito DOCG (Sagrantino 100%), Montefalco Bianco DOC (Trebbiano Spoletino minimum 50%, other admitted grapes minimum 50%), Montefalco Grechetto DOC (Grechetto min. 85% other admitted grapes 15%) and Montefalco Rosso DOC and Montefalco Rosso Riserva (Sangiovese from 60% to 80%, Sagrantino from 10% to 25%, other admitted grapes 0-30%).
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GAMBERO ROSSO X MONTEFALCO
BY WILLIAM PREGENTELLI
photo by © Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco
SAGRANTINO IN NUMBERS In the 25 years of DOCG the growth of Montefalco Sagrantino has been remarkable: the surface area of planted vineyards registered with DOCG has seen an increase since 1992 (66 hectares) to 2017 (760 hectares) and the bottlers of the Montefalco wines grew from 16 to 60. Over thirty new wineries have been built over the last decade. From 2000 to present day the production of Sagrantino has tripled: from 660 thousand to about 1.5 million bottles. Production of DOC Montefalco has reached 3 million bottles for a vine-planted area of 430 hectares. In 2017 the production of white wines represented about 12% of the DOC, in particular the Montefalco Grechetto DOC approximately 9%, while the Montefalco Bianco DOC is 2.5%. The production of red wines is equivalent to 88% of the entire production. In the last year, 70% of the production was exported mainly to the United States (26%), Germany (10%) and China (8%) which were confirmed as the most appreciative, and to a lesser extent towards Switzerland (4%), England (5%), Denmark (2%), Japan (4.5%), Canada (4%), the Netherlands (4%), Belgium (4%), Austria, Australia, Finland, Sweden, Poland, Russia, Luxembourg, Spain, Brazil, Latvia, Ireland, Taiwan, France, Thailand, Norway, Czech Republic, Hong Kong, South Africa, Singapore, Puerto Rico and Korea. The percentage of exports rose by 10% compared to 2016. .
ANTEPRIMA SAGRANTINO A few days ago at Anteprima Sagrantino, now in its fourth edition, the 2014 vintage of Montefalco Sagrantino was presented. It was granted 3 starts over 5 by the Consortium’s tech commission. This has been a difficult vintage, but quality was fortunately not affected: “thanks to the careful agronomist management of the vineyards, the cold and rainy summer that caused such headaches to the national wine sector, didn’t however negatively affect the quality of the 1.7 million bottles of the 2014 production. It was a challenging vintage for Sagrantino which turned out to be valuable, with soft, juicy and long wines, according to some technicians still under evaluation. The Italian and foreign press also recognize the constant improvement of the denomination, which has reached a high level throughout the area”.
Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco Piazza del Comune, 16 - Montefalco (PG) www.consorziomontefalco.it
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THE TWINS WHO ARE TURNING MOSCOW INTO A FOOD MECCA
Present and future of the brothers who marked a turning point in Moscow’s gastronomy. After being the first to introduce Russian ingredients in the local haute cuisine, they are now focusing on farm-to-table that’s so popular in the West. They have very clear ideas. On May 24th we will see them in action at Le Strade della Mozzarella in Paestum
words by Sara Porro – photos by Alberto Blasetti infographics by Alessandro Naldi
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rossing the threshold of Café Pushkin on Moscow’s Tverskoy Boulevard is like entering the house of a Russian aristocrat circa 1825: dark wood panelling on the walls, stuccoed ceilings, the dim light of oil lamps. Indeed, this is one of the oldest restaurants in the Russian capital, dating back to… 1999. Twenty years aren’t enough to make this into a historical restaurant in a city where, throughout the Soviet era, restaurants were publicly despised as a bourgeois softness, but privately reserved for members of the party and the cultural elite. An example is a Georgian restaurant Aragvi, frequented in the second half of the last century by the best of Soviet society -a mixture of Eastern Block movie stars, chess champions, cosmonauts and members of the Politburo which was also the favourite gathering of KGB spies and agents. After the fall of the USSR the restaurant closed, to reopen in 2016, after a restoration that cost 20 million euros, and that has transformed the favourite dining room of the head of Stalin’s secret police, Lavrentiy Beria, into a historical attraction, with lots of frescoes on the walls in pure Socialist realist style. The first wave of ambitious restaurants, opened in Moscow in the late 90s, was blatantly sumptuous: born in the wake of the privatization of state resources, their style reflected the sudden and staggering wealth accumulated by some, as well as the desire of the city to stand up to Western capitals. The landmarks of the time are places like Turandot, built from scratch in Baroque style by restaurateur Andrei Dellos (the same as Café Pushkin): 600 employees and more than 500 seats in a huge hall where musicians wearing wigs play classical music. Or the first Russian restaurant to enter in 2011 in the World’s 50 Best, the molecular cuisine Varvary, or “barbarians”, demonstrating the fact that chef Anatoly Komm did not lack self-irony in ascertaining the perception
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MOSCOW, THE TWIN’S CHALLENGE
1. The view over the rooftops of central Moscow from the dining room at Twin’s Garden, one of the oldest restaurants in the capital dating back to 1999. During the regime the restaurants were frowned upon by the Soviet government 2. and 3. Preparing cheeses with milk hailing from the Berezutskiy twins’ farm (located 50 hectares south of Moscow) and transformed in the creamery within the restaurant 4. The cheese plate featuring different varieties, some of which recuperated directly from ancient rural tradition of Russia. The braid is a cheese made with stretched curd ribbons which is soaked before being braided. This is a very salty cheese comparable to the Roman coppiette, once utilized in informal osterie to induce patrons to drink more wine.
REDISCOVERING OUR RUSSIAN TRADITION In the dining world at the moment there is great interest in Russian tradition: everyone now seeks local ingredients and wants to rediscover our culture. This is all new to us; after the Soviet period when so much was lost, and the following time, when everyone was interested only in foreign cuisine - Italian or Japanese or French - we’re now ready to rediscover our history. We’re ready to take the leap: we boast many good restaurants, and there’s a new wave of good chefs, like Anatoly Kazakov of Selfie, or Georgy Troyan of Severanye, both Moscow natives; or Igor Grishechkin of Cococo in Saint Petersburg, to mention a few. This is the first generation of chefs studying the past. These are pros who once again approach the cookery of their grandmothers, be they Jewish or Orthodox. There are many traditions in Russia. This also goes for ingredients: we should not think of Russia merely as a cold place, our country is a continent: in the south we have citrus fruits, apricots, tomatoes and many other incredible products like bamboo. Today, in addition, the quality and availability of ingredients has improved: before the embargo we mostly imported everything. Now local ingredients are being used, and chefs work with farmers, breeders and artisans to encourage providing their kitchens with excellent products. Plus, given that certain products are only available in some parts of the country and for limited periods of time, conservation techniques are increasing and often surprise those who discover them for the first time. For example, fermentation, which is so trendy nowadays, has always been practiced in Russia. In conclusion, the time is ripe. What does this mean? It means that now it’s time to cook. — Vladimir Mukhin (sous-chef al The White Rabbit di Mosca)
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of Russian gastronomy abroad. But the last few years have marked an evolution in the Muscovite gastronomic scene: no revolution, but rather a snapshot of maturity that does not betray the peculiar spirit of the place. In November 2017 opened Twins Garden, 2.0 version of the lucky Twins restaurant founded by identical twins Ivan and Sergey Berezutskiy in 2014. The new name underlines the fundamental novelty of the project: the two chefs have purchased 50 hectares of land in the Kaluga region two and a half hours south of Moscow - where they intend to produce between 80% and 90% of the ingredients used in restaurant: «People have begun to understand that the most important thing is the freshness of the food», says Sergey. There is a vegetable garden, but also a heated greenhouse where we grow tomatoes, radishes, cabbage and aromatic herbs; a pond for freshwater crayfish (yes!), a
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breeding of goats and cows for milk and cheese. The project is carried out in collaboration with specialists of the Russian State University of Agriculture. The model is therefore the farm-to-table one that’s so popular in the West, however, here it’s declined Moscow-style, which is, in sum, the best of the best of everything. An example? The goats are of Nubian breed, wild animals originating from the Arabian Peninsula: they are little domesticated and extremely delicate, and require intense supervision, especially at the time of birthing. For this reason, their lodgings have been equipped with a system of cameras and 24/7 surveillance. A small price to pay, according to the chefs, for the best milk in the world, which in the restaurant menu shines in a simple morning curd paired to an apple sorbet and honey consommé from the Altai mountains. Cultivating a garden has long been
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10 VERY RUSSIAN RECIPES FOR 10 VERY ITALIAN PAIRINGS
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Borsch
Traditional Russian red beet soup served with sour cream on the side Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cerasuolo Le Cincie ’16 – De Fermo We love colour matching, fact is that Cerasuolo paired with Borsch is just perfect: acidity and light tannins degrease and clean the mouth, while the structure of the wine goes hand in hand with the aromaticity of soup. Perfect!
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Insalata Olivie
More commonly called “Russian salad” Alto Adige Pinot Grigio ’15 – Kofererhof Alto Adige Pinot Grigio ’15 – Kofererhof A South Tyrolean label for a dish that’s known all over the world. It takes the right acidity to degrease, that’s why we choose a mountain wine that also possesses a nice flavour and proper aroma. Never cover the salad notes, but rather accompany to enhance all the ingredients.
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Kholodets
Jellied meat dish Maremma Ciliegiolo ’16 – Antonio Camillo We like the idea of pairing a jellied meat dish with a fresh wine with acidity, but one with temperature (Ciliegiolo is one of those reds served at 16°C max): slender and with delicate tannins and good olfactory depth. The dish will be well-paired and never “covered” by the wine.
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Selyodka pod Shuba
Marinated herring salad with red beets, carrots and mayonnaise Trentino Gewürztraminer ’16 – Maso Cantanghel This game is played on contrast: the smoky notes are combined with all the fruity aromas of the traminer. The salty herring is offset by the typical sweetness of the grape. Finally, some ideal freshness to clean the palate from the fatty aspect, especially the mayonnaise.
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Kotleta pojarskaya
Veal meatball filled with aromatic butter, then breaded and fried Dolceacqua Rossese ’16 – Terre Bianche Fried meat dish with added fatty butter. The Dolceacqua is the perfect wine for this. Made from rossese grapes, this Ligurian red is easy to drink. On the nose are berries, while the palate benefits from well-balanced acidity, light tannins and a very savoury finish. Meatball-worthy, practically!
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Beef-Stroganoff
Thinly carved beef slices stewed with onions, sour cream and mushrooms SP68 Rosso ’16 – Arianna Occhipinti This dish pairs well with a southern Italian wine. But this wine is everything but muscle and structure: SP68 is made with nero d’Avola and frappato grapes, and is elegant, extremely fresh and tasty. It pairs well with red meat while never overpowering it; and thanks to its acidity
MOSCOW, THE TWIN’S CHALLENGE
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it manages to clean the palate from the ingredients of the dish, preparing for another bite.
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Pelmeni
Traditional ravioli-like dumplings filled with meat and served with sour cream or chicken broth Lambrusco di Sorbara Radice ’16 – Paltrinieri It may have been the stuffed pasta that immediately made us think of an Emilian wine. The fact is that Radice is perfect with these typical Russian ravioli: aromas of wine and dish go hand in hand, the carbonation of the wine balances the ravioli filling well and, thanks to the strong acidity of Sorbara, the mouth is always very clean (this is a very different Lambrusco from the Modena one, Grasparossa or Salamino).
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Mushroom julienne
Verdicchio di Matelica ’16 – Collestefano No meat or fish for this traditional side dish. We opt for a lean, elegant, fresh and savoury white. The Verdicchio di Matelica is the ideal wine for this dish. The good bouquet does not disappoint the aroma of the dish and the flavour of the wine goes hand in hand with the taste of the dish.
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Uxa
Slightly smoky traditional fish stew Mendula ‘13 – Pietro Lilliu Mendula is a Sardinian white made by a true wine artisan, Pietro Lilliu. Made from malvasia grapes, the wine is dry and savoury. It pairs exceptionally well with fish and seafood dishes, especially with smoked fish in which the strong aromatic element in the wine contrasts and supports all the aromas of the dish. A special and fascinating pairing.
Sautéed mushrooms with onion, cream and butter, and then baked au gratin
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a habit of great chefs, who love the direct link with ingredients, but also the poetic submission to the logic of nature: Enrico Crippa, awarded with Tre Forchette for his Piazza Duomo restaurant in Alba, likes to say that his biodynamic vegetable garden forces him to humbly rethink dishes based on the availability of a certain ingredient. In the case of Twins Garden, however, the reasoning is almost opposite: the need is to have control. «It is very difficult to regularly supply good vegetables in Russia. Many soils are polluted, and small organic producers can’t often ensure regular supplies and deliveries», explains Sergey. Where the farm can’t go, the twins do: in Moscow they are acknowledged among the first to bring Russian ingredients to an haute cuisine restaurant, a trend that sharply accelerated when the government introduced sanctions on fruit, vegetables, meat and fish imported from the EU,
Balik salmon with olad’i and black sturgeon caviar Marinated and smoked salmon according to Russian tradition, and served with olad’i (small blinis) with black Beluga caviar – commonly known as sturgeon Alta Langa Brut Zero Nature Sboccatura Tardiva ’11 – Enrico Serafino In our pairings we could not forego including bubbles. We chose this sparkling wine for salmon opting for a great Alta Langa, which is elegant and deep. The very delicate carbonation degreases and gives finesse to the dish; the acidity lends cleanliness to the fatty parts of the recipe and the aromaticity of the dish is well supported by the perfumes that this wine’s late disgorging offers.
10
– Giuseppe Carrus
STORIES
THE 20 RESTAURANTS OF GOURMET MOSCOW ACCORDING TO NINO GRAZIANO The 20 not to be missed places if you are in Moscow. There is something for all budgets and for all tastes: opulent rooms, breath-taking places, informal or elegant grills and cocktail bars. What follow are Nino Graziano’s choices; he is the first Italian chef to bring contemporary Italian cuisine to post-wall Moscow. Starting with his Semifreddo (awarded with Due Forchette Tricolori recognition from the Top Italian Restaurants in the World 2018 guide by Gambero Rosso), the group to which the Sicilian chef belongs to manages twenty restaurants, some of which are added to the map. After extensive experience in France where he also met his wife Sabine Bour, Nino returned to Villafrati, his hometown near Palermo and opened Mulinazzo. He focuses on recovering native flavours and ingredients as well as tradition, following a sort of personal fusion, anticipating all the interconnections between cultures and knowledge that characterize the new Italian cuisine since the beginning of the new millennium so popular worldwide. One of his most important dishes in the past were olives mijoté… i.e. lightly simmered in olive oil, following the classic French low and slow method. The critics were very impressed. Same goes for his basil and extra-virgin olive oil gelato. This was the beginning of the rebirth of international markets for Sicilian extra-virgin olive oil. As soon as he entered the new millennium, Nino immediately catches onto new world trends. Russia, Moscow in particular, begins to pull like a magnet, where there is great demand for Italian and French chefs. Nino is one of the first to launch himself into the Russian adventure. And in 2004 he chose to leave his homeland again to go to Moscow. These are the years of international success. Many follow him, think the new opening of Ovo by Carlo Cracco. But after 14 years Nino Graziano makes a great comeback: this time he goes to Rome, in the city centre at a stone’s throw from Piazza in Lucina, with his Osteria Romana located in Via del Leoncino, and whose management is entrusted to his wife. It was she 14 years ago, who gave birth––along with Nino’s nephews––at the Bottega Siciliana in Villafrati, in the place of Mulinazzo (that’s still open). And now it is she who accompanies the chef in his stylish new endeavour. She offers her husband’s Mediterranean cuisine, made both of Sicilian tradition, but also of curiosities and tasty treats born from the experience matured and knowledge of the world.
1
La Maree
Petrovska ulitsa, 28 +7(800)5550435 - lamaree.ru Raw seafood, grand ingredients, Mediterranean cuisine
2
Café Pushkin
Tverskoj boulevard, 26a +74957390033 - cafe-pushkin.ru Evocative atmosphere in a beautiful 19th century building, Russian-international cuisine
3
White Rabbit
Smolenskaya square, 3 +74955105101 whiterabbitmoscow.ru Trendy restaurant with breathtaking views over the rooftops and domes of Moscow. Contemporary cuisine, many vegan options. Excellent cocktails
4
Savva
Hotel Metropole Teatral’nyy proyezd, 2
+74992701062 - savvarest.ru Stunning location with views over the theatre square. Elegant Russian cuisine
5
Semifreddo
ulitsa Timura Frunze, 11 (Rossolimo street - Metro Park Kultury) - +74951815555 semifreddo-group.com The first restaurant opened in Moscow by Nino Graziano, pioneer of Italian contemporary dining in post-Iron Curtain Moscow
6
Ovo by Carlo Cracco
Hotel Lotte - 8 boulevard, 2 Novinskiy Boulevard +74952870515 - lottehotel.com Restaurant belonging to the Vicenza-native chef in the Russian capital
7
la Bottega Siciliana
ulitsa Okhotnyy Ryad, 2 +74956600383 semifreddo-group.com Modern osteria, pizzeria and Mediterranean cuisine eatery with wood-stoked oven and
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BEGOVOY
Cimitero
PRESNENSKIJ
12
18
gelateria located across the street from the Bolshoi opera house
8
Elarji Restaurant
Gagarinskiy Pereulok, 15a +74956277897 - ginza.ru Informal grill, cocktail bar and pub located near the Christ the Saviour cathedral
9
Vysota 5642
Bol’shoy Cherkasskiy Pereulok, 15-17 +74956249321 - 5642-vysota.ru Fun and trendy pub, grill and cocktail bar located close to legendary GUM department store and 2 minutes from Red Square
10
Megumi
Hotel Lotte - 8 boulevard, 2 Novinskiy Boulevard +74952870520 - lottehotel.com Fine Japanese and fusion cuisine, boasting a fine sake selection
MOSCOW, THE TWIN’S CHALLENGE
in response to Western sanctions for the war in eastern Ukraine. When Ivan and Sergey embarked on this journey they did not have autarchy in mind, but rather the model invented by René Redzepi’s “New Nordic Cuisine” and not only: four times a year the brothers make a trip to a different Russian region to discover the most interesting local products, generally known only in the area: “In this way we found many ingredients, sometimes unknown even to the locals. When we went looking for king crab on the eastern border of the country we discovered that their caviar was being thrown away: we started to use it and today it is also found in other Moscow restaurants”, says Sergey. Certainly, in a country of this size it is very difficult to speak of “km0” as we understand it in Italy: crabs from Magadan and Kamchatka take twice as long to get to Moscow compared to the fish of the Adriatic, due to cumbersome logistics. So, farm-to-table, we said. In addition to the name, the Twins Garden declines the theme of nature remaining firmly within the standard of the great Moscow restaurant: here we do not find excesses, but luxury is seen only in
16
TVERSKOJ
15 1
Museo Bulgakov
19 17
13 2
JAKIMANKA Teatro Bolshoi 11
9
20
7
Mausoleo di Lenin
10 6
14
4
San Basilio
Cremlino Palazzo dell’Armeria
3
Museo Puškin
8
JAKIMANKA
5
11
Bolshoi
Petrovka ulitsa, 3/6 (di fronte al teatro) - +74957898652 en.novikovgroup.ru Russian and International cuisine, good menu and beautiful location
12
Sixty bar
Federatsia Tower - Presnenskaya nab., 12 - +74956538369 ginza.ru/msk/restaurant/Sixty Fine international cuisine with killer views from the 62nd floor
13
Turandot
Tverskoy boulevard, 26 +74957390011 - turandot-palace.ru Splendid and evocative location, lavish setting, oriental style cuisine (Japanese in particular)
14
Ryby Net
Fine venue centered around the grill and different meat cuts located at a stone’s throw from Red Square: expensive yet truly excellent
15
Twins Garden
Strastnoy Boulevard, 8A +74991123311 - twinsgarden.ru Star of our feature piece
16
Adri bbq&wine
Lesnaya Ulitsa, 7 +79032584888 - adribbq.ru Trendy venue, creative format by Adrian Quetglas, a great grill for meat and fish, but with options for vegans, too
17
Bar Grand Cru
Malaya Bronnaya street, 22 +74955106565 - grandcru.ru Wine bar and grill, again by Argentine native and passionate lover of the Majorca sea, Adrian Quetglas
Nikolskaya street, 12 +74952584206 - novikovgroup.ru
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18
Bolognetta
Kiyevskogo Vokzala square, 2 +74952292720 semifreddo-group.com Osteria and pizzeria, Mediterranean cuisine and informal setting for Nino Graziano’s newest dining format
19
Gutai
Malaya Bronnaya street, 26 +74956268573 semifreddo-group.com Asian project for Nino Graziano’s group under the guidance of chef Igor Su Who: Asian dishes, both traditional and fusion, and a fine cocktail selection
20
Grand Café dr. Jhivago
Mokhovaya St, 15/1 +74999220100 - drzhivago.ru Cocktail bar serving international and Russian dishes; fine mixology offer
STORIES
9
transparency. The architecture is inspired by Russian constructivism and the design of the restaurant has an eco-minimalist style reminiscent of the open spaces with ample use of rough surfaces and textures like rocks, walls that shine replicating moisture, and small pots of moss that act as table centrepieces. There is, in addition, another small titbit: one of the private rooms of the restaurant houses a miniature hanging garden, with small vases in aeroponic cultivation hanging from the ceiling. Guests can plant a seed that once blossomed will be transferred to the property’s farmland: the harvest will go directly to the diner, a sort of delayed dinner favour. Another room is devoted to test kitchen, where the stainless steel of the kitchen appliances futuristic is reflected on the onyx slab counter. Here the twins can experiment in complete freedom with new dishes and ideas, in front of an ultra-selected audience: 11
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MOSCOW, THE TWIN’S CHALLENGE
5. Ivan, one of the twins, in his workplace 6. Fresh salad sourced in the restaurant’s farm located 2,5 hours from Moscow 7. Cod fish dish, typical product of the North Sea 8. The Twin’s Garden brigade hard at work in the large and super-equipped kitchen overlooking the Moscow rooftops 9. The room devoted to wine in the evocative veranda 10. Sergey, the other twin, in the aeroponic room 11. 12. 13. Three crab variations: in a dish with vegetables; pulled and stuffed in a sandwich; claws to suck on. The wine & crab formula, developed by the two brothers in two clubs in Moscow, has conquered the Russian food scene thanks to the versatility of the product and the possibility of having it from different places in the country 10
PHOTOGRAPHER’S LIGHTBOX International cuisine, superb location and two twin chefs. Portraying the Twins Garden was not immediately approachable, the place is an 12
ecosystem made up of many realities, and whose central hub is the kitchen. They are biologically identical but decidedly different in terms of interests and inspiration. The point for me was trying to restore their individuality, that’s perhaps often neglected, but at the same time show the incredible harmony between them. Watching them at work is a fascinating spectacle... – Alberto Blasetti
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there is only seating for five. The satisfaction with which they describe the space speaks of a dream come true: two out of a thousand in their generation have the means to stitch this restaurant exactly on the measure of their ambitions. The sense for the theatre of Muscovite gastronomy returns in the composition of the tasting menu, built on the theme of “twins”: the dishes are based on two ingredients that resemble each other in appearance, but that are different and ultimately complementary - like the Berezutskiy, of course. For example, on the menu is horsehair crab - so named for the “fuzz”, which often covers the carapace - served in combination with armillaria mushrooms; or veal and walnut brains, perhaps the most suggestive in identifying two almost perfectly identical elements. The idea possesses indisputable charm, but it places formal constraints that are so restrictive that they become reminiscent of those forms of poetry in which only one vowel is allowed, so the risk is to turn the whole journey into a formula. Yet the ability to create a feeling of familiarity and surprise – as in the case of steamed sturgeon served with a side dish of “fusilli” (actually dried fish bone marrow shaped like a helix) testifies to a real talent, even more so in the face of a bill that is slightly above 40 euro per person. It’s difficult to justify in the face of the cost of the entire project, which is clearly worth tens of millions of dollars. When questioned on this, the communication team hesitates, offering only this statement: “The investment is difficult to estimate because the farm is still under construction, so any exact sum would not be entirely correct”. Surely, the aim is not just to attract a Russian clientele: the championship in which Twins Garden wants to compete is that of the great international restaurants. It seems that the winning way to go will be to take inspiration from themes - respect for the seasons, local ingredients, self-production, novel national cuisine - and then throw in the gears to overtake thanks to almost unlimited financial resources. A new race for space has begun, this time gastronomic.
RATINGS
ANTEPRIMA TRADE FAIRS 2018
In view of the great wine fairs in Verona and in Düsseldorf, the Anteprima event of Gambero Rosso brought new labels of large and small Italian wine companies on tour in some of the best wine shops. Here they are by Stefania Annese and William Pregentelli – illustrations by Finnano Fenno
Piedmont
BATASIOLO
F.LLI SERIO & BATTISTA BORGOGNO
fraz. Annunziata, 87 La Morra (CN)- batasiolo.com Ten farmsteads located among the most reputed areas of Langa, seven labels of Barolo, of which five with geographical claims, 140 hectares of property, over 500 barrels between small and large, approximately thirty labels in the range, a resort & spa. These are just some of the numbers that summarize the scope of the Beni di Batasiolo project, started by the Dogliani family with the first acquisition of the old Kiola winery. Barolo Briccolina ’10 Brightly coloured Barolo Briccolina 2010 has aromas that span from tobacco and spices to violets. Interesting flavour depth Langhe Chardonnay Vign. Morino ’16 The olfactory baggage plays on notes of exotic fruit and a vegetal background. On the palate it is agile and fresh. Harmonic and persistent finish.
via Crosia,12 – Barolo (CN) borgognoseriobattista.it This valuable winery, now run with passion by the Borgogno family, boasts a history of winemaking dating back to 1897 and preserves a classic style especially in the interpretation of Barolo. The grapes all come from the prestigious vineyards of the properties located in the municipalities of Barolo, Novello and Diano d’Alba. All work in the vineyard, from pruning to the selection of the grapes, are personally carried out by the family, to obtain wines that properly encapsulate their land of origin. Barolo Cannubi ’14 Expressive aromatic profile: flowers, sweet spices, berries, cloves, dried leaves. On the palate bold acidity and good tannins. Barolo Cannubi Ris. ’12 Fine and elegant bouquet, with dark floral and woodsy notes, leaves, topsoil, pepper, good complexity and a touch of chocolate. Equally elegant on the palate, with modulated and fine grain tannins.
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ANTEPRIMA TRADE FAIRS 2018
BEL COLLE
LA BIÒCA
fraz. Castagni, 56 – Verduno (CN) – belcolle.eu There are big projects in the pipeline for the second life of Bel Colle, a historic winery led for almost forty years by the families Pontiglione and Priola, taken over in 2015 by the Bosio Family Estates. This is a productive group operating for about half a century, which today can count on a vineyard network of over 350 hectares between Langa, Roero, Asti and Monferrato. Bel Colle goes on however with its brand and its identity, linked to the parcels of Verduno, La Morra, Treiso and Barbaresco. Barbera d’Asti Nuwanda ’16 Dark fruit pulp, mature plum, blackberries and violets compose the bouquet of this easily drinkable barbera, veined with fresh acidity, and a linear and defined flavour characterized by harmonic and well-balanced tannins. Roero Arneis ’17 Bold acidity and fruitiness, aromas of white fruit and spice nuances. On the palate is sapid with a typically almondy finish.
via Alba, 13a – Serralunga d’Alba (CN) labioca.it A beautiful winery with international origins but closely linked to the Langhe, with 9 hectares of vineyards that range from cru of Barolo and Barbaresco. The vineyards are located in the municipalities of Monforte d’Alba, Novello, La Morra, Barbaresco and Roddino. All the grapes at the base of Langhe wine tradition reach Fontanafredda di Serralunga d’Alba at the headquarters where all the production, refining and sale activities are carried out. Dolcetto d’Alba Sup. Ricciaia ’16 Fragrant and fresh nose with lots of expression, with autumnal elements that range from chestnut to dark forest floor berries. On the palate the wine is very smooth, but with good tannins, which are pleasant and gastronomic. Nebbiolo d’Alba Stërmà ’15 The nose is fleshy and spicy, with light floral and fruity notes; the mouth is characterized by a still compact and dense tannin, still in the process of definition.
CASCINA ALBERTA
CASCINA FALETTA
via Alba 5 – Treiso (CN) – calberta.it Francesco and Luca Guernani have, in addition to a beautiful farm, 9 hectares of vineyards that they cultivate with extreme care in regard to the environment. The rows run uninterrupted along the hills of the town of Treiso on limestone-rich soils with microelements that give the wines personality and propensity for aging. All the labels made from Nebbiolo or Barbera and Grignolino grapes––which are very rare grapes outside the territory of Monferrato––are the result of their own vineyards. Barbaresco Giacone ’15 A nice clear and precise nose, reminiscent of flowers, cherries and spices anticipates a palate that impacts on flowers and fruits, supported by a dense tannin, but still very young. Langhe Nebbiolo ’16 Nebbiolo in purity, aged in large casks, the nose has floral hints combined with more earthy notes of topsoil and rhubarb; the palate opens on red fruit, then returns to a pleasant earthy note that contrasts the tannic mouthfeel.
Mandoletta 81 – Casale Monferrato (AL) faletta.it The history of this Casale Monferrato winery is intertwined with the mystery of three old still-loaded rifles found in a windowless room at Cascina Faletta. The current owners Elena Novarino and Giovanni Rosso discovered them and were fascinated by this discovery and decided to name their Pinot Noir after them, 3 Fucili. This place, which cannot ignore its history, is surrounded by lands that have been used for vine cultivation since 1957. Since then the journey into the world of wine continues with every bottle seen as a nod to the past. Piemonte Pinot Nero 3 Fucili ’16 The wine starts slightly contracted on the nose, but soon defines itself in its notes of red blossoms and black cherry; on the palate it shows great drinkability and fluency thanks to a pleasant acid and savory persistence. Barbera del M.to Braja ’16 Rich in fruit, taut and sour, with beautiful length. Pleasing for its determination and dynamism on the palate.
FRANCO E PIERGUIDO CESTE
GALLINO DOMENICO BRIC CASTELVEJ
c.so Alfieri, 1 – Govone (CN) – cestevini.com For generations the Ceste family has been producing quality wines in Govone, a small town in the province of Cuneo where production is mainly focused on Barbera d’Alba. In this area this type of wine reaches the apex of quality presenting itself in a young and fresh or a superior version for aging. But the range of labels offered by Ceste is completed with other types of Piedmontese traditional wines, from Nebbiolo d’Alba, to Barolo, Barbaresco, Dolcetto and Grignolino without overlooking white wines such as Roero Arneis or Moscato. Langhe Pinot Nero Campo del Frate ’15 The aromas of ripe black fruits, cherry and plum, anticipate an extractive mouth characterized by an important tannic component that lends support to the mouth. Barbera d’Alba Sup. ’15 This Barbera d’Alba lends notes of red fruits and floral hints; more expressive in the mouth where an already integrated tannin leaves room for an acid vein that lengthens the finish.
Madonna Loreto, 70 – Canale (CN) briccastelvej.com Founded in 1956 by Domenico Gallino, the Bric Castelvej winery is now run by son-in-law Mario Repellino and his son Cristiano. The vineyards are all located in Canale - where vineyards re placed in veritable crus like the Mompissano - on loose sandy soils with loam and limestone clays. The grapes grown are those typical of the area, in particular arneis, nebbiolo and barbera, producing wines that blend finesse and good structure. Roero Arneis Bricco Novara ’16 It has citrus notes of citron, floral perfumes, saffron and white pepper. It has a savory palate with good body and persistence. Langhe Nebbiolo ’16 Laurel, undergrowth, foliage, sour cherries and blueberries make up the aromatic spectrum of this pleasant Nebbiolo. The tannin is already perfectly integrated into the mouth, very fresh in its development and progression.
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RATINGS
NEGRETTI
DIEGO PRESSENDA - LA TORRICELLA
fraz. Santa Maria, 53 – La Morra (CN) negrettivini.com Ezio and Massimo Negretti have resumed the ancient family activity15 years ago cultivating vineyards, and have used their studies and their experience to create a winery devoted to quality. The 13 hectares of vineyards are found mostly in La Morra but also in Roddi, in that cru Bricco Ambrogio which is growing in popularity year after year. The wines have now reached a precise style and identity, made of fruit purity, great taste harmony and a classic use of wood. Barolo Bricco Ambrogio ’14 The Negretti brothers offer a fine Barolo with spicy aromas, raspberry and bitter root references. Nice youthful palate, fresh and moderately tannic Barolo ’14 A Barolo with a compact mouth whose wood adds spicy nuances of vanilla and licorice. The palate has strong tannins and good substance.
loc. Sant’Anna, 98 – Monforte d’Alba (CN) latorricella.eu At Torricella, with its high quality restaurant and farm, the Pressenda family is carrying out an important project that focuses on wine production. In a varied offer, which comes from 13 hectares of vineyards, red, white and sparkling wines stand out, all made in full respect of the environment and the ecosystem. The rows of the vineyard that had previously hosted native vines for some years have also welcomed the riesling Rhenan vine, always sustainably cultivated. Nebbiolo d’Alba Il Donato ’15 Profumes of pepper, dried fruits and tobacco; great agility on the palate, despite the thick tannins and thanks to the sapid freshness. Riesling ’16 Sulphureous notes that slowly bring out citrus and flowers, and the dynamic character of this Riesling. Sapid and fresh.
GIOVANNI SORDO
VIRNA
fraz. Garbelletto – via Alba Barolo, 175 Castiglione Falletto (CN) – sordogiovanni.it The winery founded by Giuseppe Sordo has just passed the 100 year mark. The son Giovanni and his nephew Giorgio then proceeded to create a fabulous winery and make acquisitions of vineyards that led to the imposing current structure, culminating in the creation of 15 labels of Barolo. The names of the crus are very famous: they range from Ravera di Novello to Monprivato, to Rocche and Villero di Castiglione Falletto, passing through Perno di Monforte and Gabutti di Serralunga together with Monvigliero di Verduno. Barolo Perno ’14 Young on the nose, with spicy hints that turn to cocoa. Furthermore fascinating for the aromatic baggage that ranges from violet to licorice. Tasty palate and lively body. Barolo Gabutti Ris. ’11 Clearly expressive for the Nebbiolo’s typical olfactory characteristics, with hints ranging from roots to blueberry, while the palate is still slightly marked by the presence of tannins.
via Alba, 24 – Barolo (CN) – virnabarolo.it Oenology graduate Virna Borgogno is the heart and the force behind this small winery and its important vineyards in the municipality of Barolo. This Langhe winery is surprising for the stylistic definition of all of its wines, starting with a series of Barolos coming from terroirs of great value: Sarmassa, Preda and Cannubi Boschis. These age in wood barrels of different size. A range of cru of this level is undoubtedly the best way to win over enthusiastic Italian and foreign consumers. Barolo del Comune di Barolo ’14 Austere nose, still not very expressive (this is obvious for a very young Barolo). The wine opens slowly and elegantly reminiscent of black peppercorns, spices, blueberry and licorice; very fresh in the mouth, it is an agile and essential Barolo. Langhe Nebbiolo ’15 Currants and small berries blend with earthy and iodate notes; the mouth has tannins that are still young and evolving, but the tasty fruity note emerges.
Lombardy
F.LLI GIORGI
BOSCO LONGHINO
fraz. Camponoce, 39a Canneto Pavese (PV) – giorgi-wines.it If it’s true - as Fabiano Giorgi himself maintains - that his family estate was born above all as a commercial company, it’s also true that it has always bottled its entire production. Fabiano’s uncle, Gianfranco, who died prematurely in 2004, had already laid the groundwork for a decisive leap forward in quality, especially on the Traditional Method. Now the winery - which sells over 1.5 million bottles per year - has significantly increased the number of sparkling Pinot Noir, and the level has grown in parallel. OP Top Zero A cuvée assembled with the best vintages of pinot noir with fine perlage and a bouquet of white flowers, herbs and citrus with a touch of pastry that completes the olfactory baggage. Mouth decidedly marked by a good acidity.
fraz. Molino Marconi – Santa Maria della Versa (PV) – bosco-longhino.it The Oltrepò Pavese manages to summarize its ancient winemaking reputation through wineries such as Bosco Longhino. Right here, where the history of the vine has ancient roots, the winery has about 30 hectares of vineyards on hilly terrain with a significant clay component. The production is wide thanks to soil, microclimate and exposure of the vineyards; and ranges between doc Oltrepò Barbera and Bonarda, Buttafuoco, Riesling to sparkling wines. Pinot Nero Rosato Frizzante ’17 Pinot Noir in purity is a sparkling rosé focussing on simplicity and drinkability; on the nose are wild strawberries, and on the palate it is smooth and fresh. Riesling ’17 This lively version is outlined by still young and floral scents, which are developed in a savory and drinkable sip.
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ANTEPRIMA TRADE FAIRS 2018
MIRABELLA
CANTINA SOCIALE COOPERATIVA DI QUISTELLO
via Cantarane, 2 – Rodengo Saiano (BS) mirabellafranciacorta.it At the helm of the winery, founded by Teresio Schiavi, are sons Alessandro, winemaker, and Alberto, commercial director, with Francesco Bracchi as CEO. An oenological story born in 1979 when Teresio involved a group of friends, small vignerons in Franciacorta, to create a common brand. The company today produces half a million bottles. Franciacorta Demetra Extra Brut ’11 Chardonnay (70%), Pinot Nero (20%) and Pinot Bianco grapes that blend into a sparkling wine with a bouquet that recalls pastry cream and yellow fruits; in the mouth it amazes for the pleasant citrus and fresh verve. Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero Dom Ris. ’09 60% chardonnay, the remaining part is entrusted to pinot noir and pinot bianco, on lees for 85 months; aromas of ginestra clearly mark the olfactory profile, combined with honey and exotic fruits; in the mouth the wine has elegant and subtle bubbles, volume and beautiful progression.
via Roma, 46 – Quistello (MN) cantinasocialequistello.it Although in Lombardy, it’s enough to observe a map to realize how the strip this land opening along the banks of the river Secchia beyond the river Po is wedged in Emilia, between the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia and Modena––that is, in the kingdom of Lambrusco. Quistello is at the heart of the area, and the Cantina Sociale represents its soul, with its 300 members and 50 thousand quintals of grapes pressed each year. Lambrusco 80 Vendemmie Lambrusco Ruberti in purity and natural fermentation in the bottle: these are the characteristics of the 80 Red Vendemmie, a wine with a pleasantly rustic character, which smells like violets and ripe blackberries. Armonia 1.6 M. Cl. Lambrusco Grappello Ruberti and Chardonnay come together to give us a sparkling classic method that smells of ripe fruits, and which betrays creaminess and fullness in the mouth.
GERARDO CESARI
via Bocara – Alonte (VI) – carovere.it In an area appreciated for its rich and powerful reds, the Biasin family produces white wines on the Berici Hills, in an area once occupied by the sea. It is no coincidence then finding fossils and shells in the vineyard, that resurface from the calcareous soil that gives the wines minerality, freshness and great drinkability. In addition to the Traditional Method sparkling wines, the company also produces still wines: the Sisto Biasin, owes its Venetian to the family’s wine tradition. Brut ’13 70% chardonnay and 30% garganega rest a minimum of 36 months on lees. The olfactory open is played by fruit (peach, strawberry, mango), which then reappears on the palate with herbaceous notes, and beautiful fullness. Blanc de Blanc ’13 A chardonnay in purity that smells of yellow flowers, honey and bread crust; on the palate it is juicy, harmonious and agile, with a final dedicated to fruity sensations.
loc. Sorsei, 3 – Cavaion Veronese (VR) cesariverona.it The historic winery of the Cesari family has been part of the Caviro galaxy for a couple of years now, but in the cellars of Cavaion and San Floriano work is carried out with the same care and passion. The heart of the quality production comes from Valpolicella, with the vineyards of Bosco, Bosan and Jèma supplying grapes for the most ambitious labels, while from the one called Centofilari Lugana is obtained. The great slowness with which the new vintages are presented allows the wines to express great harmony from the first taste. Jèma Corvina Veronese ’13 Corvina in purity, Jèma releases aromas of wild cherry and spices with woody tones. The mouth is intact and taught, with clear tannins and lots of structure. Amarone della Valpolicella Bosan Ris. ’09 Sweet notes of chocolate and licorice, mixed with ripe black fruits and spices, anticipate a thick and solid mouth, soft yet balanced and harmonious.
Veneto
CÀ ROVERE
IL MOTTOLO
OTTELLA
loc. Le Contarine – via Comezzara, 13 Baone (PD) – ilmottolo.it The Regional Park of the Euganean Hills contains one of the most interesting wine-growing zones of the region, especially in its southern area, where the Bordeaux varieties, present here for over a century, manage to mature regularly. In Le Contarine there are the vineyards and the winery of Sergio Fortin, a dentist lent with a penchant for viticulture, his wines have won the esteem of many over the course of a few years. Serro ’15 Merlot (60%), cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon are the grapes that give life to this wine redolent of black fragrant plum and pepper. On the palate the wine boasts thick tannins, herbaceous undertones and a warm finish. Cabernet V. Marè ’16 Half cabernet franc and half cabernet sauvignon with maturation in tonneaux and barriques for just over a year. The result is a varietal nose with hints of pepper and ripe black fruits, and an agile mouthfeel, veined by acidity and savory flavors.
fraz. San Benedetto di Lugana – loc. Ottella Peschiera del Garda (VR) – ottella.it In recent decades, the southern shore of Lake Garda has seen the flourishing of an important agricultural fabric linked to the production of Lugana. The brothers Francesco and Michele Montresor star among the protagonists of this important denomination, with a vineyard that extends for many hectares both in the areas adjacent to Laghetto Frassino where the Turbiana reigns, and in the nearby hills home to red berry varieties. Lugana ’17 The 2017 vintage presents fresh aromas that range from apple to dried flowers. In the mouth the wine has a solid body and good fullness and a correct acidity that lends character. Valpolicella Ripasso Ripa della Volta ’14 Ripe red fruits, licorice and spices anticipate a pleasant and elegant palate of great tannic structure, with an envelpoing finish.
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Alto Adige
ALOIS LAGEDER loc. Tòr Löwengang – v.lo dei Conti, 9 Magrè/Margreid (BZ) – aloislageder.eu The province of Bolzano has a dense agricultural fabric that sees the presence of cooperatives, small family-run busineses and wineries based on the collaboration between property and grape suppliers. The winery of Alois Lageder belongs to the latter; over time it has converted its agriculture to biodynamics and today is leading many of its collaborators along this path. A. A. Pinot Nero Krafuss ’14 This pinot noir expresses the class of the South Tyrolean territory, boasting intense fragrance of wild berries and aromatic herbs. In the mouth it is full, juicy, long and elegant. Fòrra ’16 Made from white manzoni grape –a cross of riesling and pinot– comes this wine with a fruity and spicy bouquet. The prolonged maceration on the skins lends a marked profile and a vigorous body.
Emilia Romagna
Friuli Venezia Giulia
TENUTA STELLA
CLETO CHIARLI TENUTE AGRICOLE
loc. Scriò – via Sdencina,1 – Dolegna del Collio (GO) – tenutastellacollio.it Founded in 2010 by Sergio Stevanato, Tenuta Stella has always been among the most representative wineries of the region. Taking advantage of the precious potential of old vineyards, the production immediately focused on native white grapes. Erika Barbieri and Alberto Faggiani conduct the estate under organic regimen, managing the winery and the vineyards with the aim of making the most of this territory. Ribolla Gialla Brut 24 months on lees; fresh and floral bouquet that’s nicely spiced, the wine reveals great drinkability on pleasantly herbaceous undertones. Collio Friulano ’16 This Friulan wine that ages for a long time on its own indigenous yeasts before being bottled tastes like citron and almond. This process gives longevity to this white of characteristic minerality.
Tuscany
FATTORIA NICOLUCCI
via Belvedere, 8 Castelvetro di Modena (MO) – chiarli.it The year 1860 is a fundamental one for the history of Lambrusco: host Cleto Chiarli decided to devote himself exclusively to production of wine that until then had been served in informal osterias and taverns. He understood the importance of bottling and developed bottle refermentation techniques. Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Vign. Cialdini ’17 Paradigm among Lambrusco grasparossa, this one perfumes of black cherry and dried rose; it has a juicy mouth, with a tannic component that gives it the right dose of rusticity. Rosé de Noir ’17 A perfume explosion on the nose, with fruits ranging from orange to wild strawberry, wild flowers and roses. On the palate, freshness and great drinkability are its best weapons.
LA BRACCESCA - ANTINORI
via Umberto I, 21 – Predappio (FC) vininicolucci.com We are in Sangiovese territory here. The lean, calcareous and pebbly soils give grapes that the Nicolucci family knows how to interpret, relying on aging them in cement tanks and large wooden barrels. The stylistic code of the winery evokes classic wines, which are laid back and capable of lasting over time. A territorial reference for the whole of Romagna and a clear indication of the value of the sub-zone. Romagna Sangiovese Sup. Predappio di Predappio V. del Generale Ris. ’15 Elegant and clear on the nose with perceptions of underwood and cherry combined with balsamic notes. The palate has a solid and dense tannic structure; at this stage it is still a bit rough around the edges, but it still does well thanks to its notable acidity. Nero di Predappio ’16 Sangiovese with a balance of terrano, opens on the nose with hints of black fruits and cloves. Tannins are still a bit rough but there’s good vitality and personality.
GAMBERO ROSSO
loc Cortona – via della Stella, 10 Montepulciano (SI) – antinori.it The Antinori production in Montepulciano (and in neighboring and young Cortona denomination) are distinguished, year after year, by technically impeccable wines of excellent drinkability, in line with the centuries-old winemaking experience of this great brand. In short, La Braccesca is a true guarantee of quality and reliability for wines such as Nobile di Montepulciano or Cortona based on syrah. Cortona Bramasole ’13 This is a syrah matured in new and second-passage French barriques. on the nose are peppery notes that counterbalance the base of ripe red fruits and hints of vanilla. The mouth is dense and continuous, the body is powerful.
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CERALTI
TENUTA DI LILLIANO
via dei Ceralti, 77 – Castagneto Carducci (LI) ceralti.com The small wineries of the Bolgheri region keep up the pace of the big brands that crowd the area. Ceralti is an example of this, in our opinion, it’s among the clearest and most brilliant. The Rutili family is at the helm of the company, engaged in every phase of the production and commercial process. The base is represented by lush vineyards, on the hills between Castagneto Carducci and Bolgheri. The wines, once again, seemed to us of exquisite workmanship and good personality. Bolgheri Rosso Scirè ’16 Scirè comes from the union of cabernet sauvignon (70%) and merlot; the bouquet varies from the classic vegetable notes of sweet pepper and ripe plum, to hints of cacao beans and dates. The palate is compact yet made smooth by the underlying acidity and sapidity. Bolgheri Sup. Sonoro ’15 100% merlot and a nose that holds scents of ripe fruit, cloves, licorice and black pepper. A soft red with great structure.
loc. Lilliano, 8 – Castellina in Chianti (SI) lilliano.com Much of the recent history of the Chianti Classico is owed to Tenuta di Lilliano, nowadays the production philosophy has incorporated elements of modernity, while fully respecting the Chianti tradition. The wines of the Ruspoli family maintain a generally austere style, but they also boast generous fruitiness, all well supported by a balanced contribution of oak, both small and large. Chianti Cl. Ris. ’15 Sangiovese with a small balance of merlot, has a classic olfactory profile of violets, combined with iodine. On the palate it performs elegantly, with clear and definite tannins, between hints of fruit. Chianti Cl. Gran Selezione ’15 Colorino and merlot blend into the sangiovese base for a soft, full-bodied wine, with fine grain tannins and all anticipated by an aromatic baggage reminiscent of licorice, spices and black plum.
FATTORIA DI MONTECHIARI via Montechiari, 27 – Montecarlo (LU) montechiari.com Ten hectares of vineyards planted on alluvial soils, and divided into small parcels. This is the Montecarlo territory, always open to select French varieties. The soil is home to chardonnay, semillon, pinot noir, cabernet franc and merlot grapes. These are flanked by sangiovese grosso, located in specific areas more suited to the development of the vines. All stages in the cellar process and in the vineyard follow the organic regimen. Donna Catherine Brut Pinot noir in purity and vinified in white, has an olfactory profile that recalls strawberry jelly and notes of rose. On the palate, small red fruits and a soft, enjoyable mouth. Montechiari Cabernet ’15 Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 months in barrique; aromatic profile with woodsy and spicy tones. The palate is characterized by grand tannic framework.
PODERE LA REGOLA
TENUTA LA PARRINA
loc. Altagranda – s.da reg.le 68 km 6,400 Riparbella (PI) – laregola.com In the area where the new winery was recently built, ancient Etruscan remains of a settlement and numerous wine amphorae were found, testifying to the area’s winemaking vocation. It is therefore no coincidence that just over twenty years ago Luca, having graduated with an agriculture degree, decided to turn the small family business into a real winery. Followed soon after by his brother Flavio, attorney, who now follows the administrative, marketing and commercial aspects of the business. La Regola Cru ’15 Concentrated and multifaceted: red flowers, pepper, blackberry and vegetal profile anticipate a compact mouth with tannic texture. Lauro ’15 From chardonnay and viognier, this is a white with a floral and fruity profile, and aromas of mango and wisteria. Notes of vanilla betray time spent in oak barrels.
fraz. Albinia – s.da della Parrina Orbetello (GR) – parrina.it Marquis Franca Spinola leads the 200-hectare vineyard that extends over the territory of Orbetello. The estate was founded in the 1930s by the Florentine banker Michele Giuntini, who decided to invest in agriculturally virgin territory. Among the rows of the estate we find native varieties, in the company of international vines now perfectly acclimatized in this area of the Maremma. Parrina Vermentino ’17 This Vermentino reveals fruity aromas of apricot and apple. Soft body, well proportioned in freshness and a saline finish. Parrina Rosso Muraccio ’16 Sangiovese (80%), cabernet sauvignon and merlot blend into a wine that smells of plum, paprika, sweet spices and Mediterranean scrub. The slender mouth has tannin that’s still under definition but which doesn’t slow down the fine progression.
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TERRE NERE
POGGIO TREVVALLE
loc. Castelnuovo dell’abate - Montalcino (SI) terreneremontalcino.it On rainy days the typical stony soils of the south-eastern slope of Montalcino, mixed with greyish galestro, take on a color that tends to black. This explains the name adopted by Pasquale Vallone for his winery in the early Nineties. Supported by his brother Gaetano and his wife Piera, together with his sons Francesca and Federico, he cares for a dozen hectares on the slopes of Castelnuovo dell’Abate overlooking the Orcia river, whose thermoregulatory function is essential for the multifaceted character of Sangiovese wines made from Brunello. Rosso di Montalcino ’16 Nutmeg, spices and red flowers on the nose; on the palate are fresh red fruits and then has a pleasant development, with modulated and integrated tannin. Brunello di Montalcino ’13 A classic version of Brunello whose aromas range from licorice, iodine traces, spices and cherry pulp. On the palate it is bony and agile, already very precise in its elegant and fine tannins.
fraz. Arcille – s.da prov.le 24 Fronzina, km 0,600 Campagnatico (GR) – poggiotrevvalle.it Bernardo and Umberto Valle chose the Maremma to put into practice their passion for wine in the late nineties, going organic from the start. Most of the vineyard area is dedicated to Sangiovese, but there are also international vines to complement it. Part of the production area encompasses the territory of Montecucco, although the majority gravitates in the Morellino denomination. Morellino di Scansano Larcille Ris. ’15 The name of this Morellino is a tribute to the village of Arcille, where this wine is produced. The strength is in its aromatic baggage, composed of hints of blackberry, plus floral and balsamic notes. The mouth is firm and not devoid of pleasant hardness. Montecucco Pontolungo ’16 Intense thanks to its hints of ripe red fruits and spicy and balsamic lashings, this wine boasts fresh and lively tannins and a savoury undercoat.
Abruzzo
VIGNAMAGGIO
TENUTA BARONE DI VALFORTE
via di Petriolo, 5 – Greve in Chianti (FI) vignamaggio.com Vignamaggio, currently led by French architect Patrice Taravella –who took over from the former property in 2014– is one of the most important wineries in the Greve in Chianti sub-zone. The winemaking style favors good structure and fruit richness in wines, accompanied by the good contribution of oak, both large and small. This choice is however declined with grace and measure, so much so that elegance never fails. Chianti Cl. Terre di Prenzano ’16 Sangiovese in purity matures in a big barrel for one year. This Chianti Classico with a traditional soul, is played between an olfactory profile marked by iodized and spicy notes, and a lean and dynamic mouth, with a dense but good-grained tannin.
c.da Piomba, 11 – Silvi Marina (TE) baronedivalforte.it Owners of the Feudo Baronale di Valforte since the year 1300, the Sorricchio family takes care of about fifty hectares in the Teramane Hills. With pecorino, trebbiano, passerina, montepulciano (with some international presence), the wide and diversified grape palette finds a convincing interpretative synthesis in the compact range. In many ways this is not referable to pre-established technical schemes. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ’16 Montepulciano has fine tannic tissue. Sensations of wild cherry and soot are present. Juicy and elegant matter. Pecorino ’17 Partially held back by the sensations of yeast, it then appears almost springtime-like to the nose for its aromas of broom and lemon. The complexity of the aromatic herbs then blends with good structure.
SAN GIACOMO c.da Novella, 51 – Rocca San Giovanni (CH) cantinasangiacomo.it The resurgence of Abruzzo wine is due to the work of numerous cooperatives capable of harmonizing important volumes and production reliability. San Giacomo, historical winery in the Chieti province, brings together about 200 members and 300 hectares of vineyards overlooking the Costa dei Trabocchi. Here the mineral skeleton of the soil gives wines a cheerful and enjoyable nature throughout the entire range. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Casino Murri 14 ’15 The aromatic profile is typical of a Montepulciano of character, with ripe black fruits that blend with hints of leather, all enlivened by hints of aromatic herbs. In the mouth the dense tannins act as scaffolding to support a solid and fleshy palate. Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Casino Murri ’17 Very floral in the opening olfactory profile, currants and raspberries emerge slowly; the mouth –linear and juicy– looks to notes of fresh cherry and field greens.
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Lazio
Marche
VELENOSI
CASALE DEL GIGLIO
loc. Monticelli – via dei Biancospini, 11 Ascoli Piceno – velenosivini.com Angela Velenosi travels around the world, without ever taking a break. A job of enormous sacrifice that pays back when paired with a strong export attitude. In return, the wine receives important signals in all languages from customers, distributors, and the dining world. After participating in and then winning the native grape game, the new challenge is in the name of organic farming. As far as production is concerned, all the wines are fruits of the Marche genius loci yet offered with a modern twist. Rosso Piceno Sup. Brecciarolo Gold ’15 Brecciarolo has precise morello cherry notes, hot spices and loose soils. Good gustatory progression and a soft and sapid finish. Offida Pecorino Rêve ’16 Typicality and freshness distinguish this pecorino that tastes of white flowers and releases balsamic sensations. Rich and engaging on the palate.
loc. Le Ferriere – s.da Cisterna-Nettuno, km 13 – Latina – casaledelgiglio.it Santarelli has been present in wine since 1914. Antonio continues with pride in the family heritage project, in particular with the Le Ferriere estate created in 1985 by his father Dino. Here, in an unexplored and undervalued territory of the coast and plains, a long scientific research has selected the most suitable international vines that, under the care of the oenologist Paolo Tiefentalher, have been giving life, for years now, to a wide range of wines. Bellone Anthium ’16 The Anthium made from bellone in purity from historical vineyards on pied franc system, taste of exotic fruits and thyme. Fresh and balanced. Tempranijo ’16 Spanish vine grown in Ribera del Duero and Rioja, is expressed with notes of ferrovia cherry cultivar and cinnamon. The palate is marked by sweet tannins.
Campania
MARISA CUOMO via G.B. Lama, 16 – Furore (SA) – marisacuomo.com The sea breeze permeates the winery of Marisa Cuomo, the company that has brought Amalfi Coast wine to the world. We are in Furore, the vineyards overlook the rocky coast. Plants sink their roots in soils rich in rocky limestone. Marisa, together with her husband Andrea Ferraioli and their children Dora and Raffaele, manages about twenty hectares, without using any kind of herbicide. Costa d’Amalfi Rosato ’17 Floral nose, with an intriguing grassy undertone, hints of pomegranate and aromatic herbs. The wine made from Aglianico and Piedirosso grapes, has a taut mouth tinged with acidity and iodine perceptions. Costa d’Amalfi Furore Bianco ’17 Falanghina and biancolella are the two grapes present in this sunny white that smells of sea and Mediterranean scrub. The taste is broad, balanced, with a nice brackish and iodine finish.
Puglia
Calabria
LA PIZZUTA DEL PRINCIPE
CANTINE PAOLO LEO
loc. Pizzuta – Strongoli (KR) lapizzutadelprincipe.it Albino Bianchi passionately manages the family farm, which has become the most popular winery in the Crotone area. The vineyards occupy 100 hectares on green hills crossed by the Vitrato river and lapped by the Ionian Sea breezes. The cultivated grapes are traditional, such as pecorello, gaglioppo and greco nero that give life to wines of great drinkability not lacking in aromatic complexity and persistence. Molarella ’17 Pecorello is the prince vine of Molarella, a white wine that tastes like bergamot and Mediterranean scrub. The mouth is quite vital, saline and fresh. Zingamaro ’14 Made from greco nero grapes the wine is warm and soft, recalling plum, violet and cacao. The tannic texture is well present, with a persistent and engaging finish.
GAMBERO ROSSO
via Tuturano, 21 – San Donaci (BR) – paololeo.it For generations the Leo family has been working in the wine sector, but it is Paolo who has given a decisive boost to the family business both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Primitivo and negroamaro are the protagonist grapes of the large company production, which counts 43 labels. The vineyards are located in San Donaci on tufa and limestone soils planted in systems that are over forty years old. Primitivo di Manduria Giunonico Sup. ’13 – Vigne di San Donaci The grapes picked from the typical rows of alberello systems provide a red wine that tastes like cinchona, plum, tobacco and nuances of black olives, while the palate is dense and compact. Numen ’16 A well-made vinification for the Numen, a chardonnay in purity of good body and fruit, with tones of apricot and broom. Juicy and pleasant freshness.
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TORMARESCA loc. Tofano – c.da Torre d’Isola Minervino Murge (BT) – tormaresca.it The Apulian winery of the Antinori family is divided into two large estates, each with its own winemaking and refining cellars, and offers modern, pleasant and technically well-made wines, both from native grapes and from international vines. Tenuta Bocca di Lupo is located in Minervino Murge, in Alta Murgia, within the denomination Castel del Monte, while Masseria Maime is in San Pietro Vernotico, in the Alto Salento area. Calafuria Rosato ’17 This rosé from Negroamaro owes its name to one of the more than 700 bays present in Puglia. It is delicately fruity in its raspberry notes, while on the palate it is fresh and savoury, of great drinkability.
Sicily
TENUTE ORESTIADI
PALMENTO COSTANZO
via Santa Ninfa - Gibellina (TP) tenuteorestiadi.it An important winery with estates in the Valle del Belìce, located mainly in an area straddling the areas around the towns of Gibellina Vecchia, Mazara del Vallo and Segesta. The entrepreneurial vision is appropriately enhancing, in the name of high quality, especially the typically Sicilian grapes. The name evokes the fruitful collaboration carried out with the Orestiadi Foundation, one of the most authoritative cultural institutions in the Mediterranean. Perricone ’16 Expressed with notes of juniper, aromas of morello cherry and sensations of black pepper, the wine is backed by a solid tannic base, boasting a long and persistent finish. Grillo ’17 Has an intriguing nose of citrus with fine notes of orange blossom and green tea. In the mouth it opens into a full, crisp, long and tense fruity finish.
loc. Passopisciaro – c.da Santo Spirito Castiglione di Sicilia (CT) – palmentocostanzo.com The dozen hectares of vineyards in the Santo Spirito district, on the north side of Mount Etna have vineyards arranged on orderly terraces. This is what the Costanzo family has done since 2011 when it recovered an old farmhouse with an adjoining cellar. This was carried out to restore dignity to a place that had always been intended for the production of wine. From the typical cultivation traditions of the Etna area the wines of the Sei come Nero di Sei line come from nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio, and the Bianco di Sei are made from catarratto and carricante. Etna Rosso Nero di Sei ’14 Volcanic and rich in minerality, just like the territory from which it comes, this wine has a nose characterized by black cherry and saffron. Tonic and juicy, it has a vibrant tannic texture. Etna Bianco Bianco di Sei ’16 Wide minerality outreach for the Bianco di Sei, made from carricante and catarratto. Rich in fruit, it is fresh and well played on savoury acidity.
Sardinia
QUIGNONES
PALA
via Vittorio Emanuele, 62 – Licata (AG) quignones.it The winery has belonged to the Quignones family for centuries and today is managed by Alfredo who cultivates the hectares of property located on different terrains of varying altitude on the hills of Licata. The soil’s favourable south exposure, the proximity to the Mediterranean Sea and the peculiarities of the soils give these grapes unique characteristics for the production of wines well encapsulate the Sicilian wine making heritage. The range of labels is diversified in various lines elaborated by native and international grape varieties. Nero d’Avola Lagarsia ’15 This nero d’avola is characterized by aromas of jam of red fruits, spices and Mediterranean notes. Beautiful minerality structure that’s happily supported by a vibrant tannic texture. Inzolia Chardonnay Lagarsia ’17 This blend of inzolia and chardonnay, has clear tones of plum and almond, supported by an exuberant minerality.
GAMBERO ROSSO
via Verdi, 7 – Serdiana (CA) – pala.it The work done by Mario Pala and his family in the last few years is incredible. The quality of the wine has grown a lot and the commercial capacity has increased on international markets. Everything starts in the vineyards, especially around Serdiana, all of which are added old vines planted in pied franc system on sandy Oristano soils. From this comes a Bovale in purity. Vermentino di Sardegna I Fiori ’17 This Vermentino ‘17 is entirely played on a vertical and fresh development, with tones of Mediterranean and candied citrus peel. Well equipped with acidic strength, fresh and saline. Cannonau di Sardegna Ris. ’15 Concentrated, dense and full-bodied Cannonau Riserva, with hints of resin, ripe red fruits, cinnamon and bitter cacao. Good complexity in the structure, despite the contracted mouth owed to a slight tannic astringency.
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SEA AND BEYOND. SARDINIA IN SPRING: 8 INLAND ITINERARIES In the name of landscape, of culture, of gastronomy, of wines and of traditions, eight Sardinian towns and their surroundings have come together in a common initiative aimed at promoting around Europe the region’s culinary specialties and artisan foods. Focus on an island that is also land and not just beautiful sea
words by Giuseppe Carrus – artwork by Stefania Saragoni
STORIES
A
ggius, Atzara, Baunei, Cabras, Nuoro, Orosei, Sant’Antioco and La Maddalena: these are the eight protagonists of the “Enotourist itinerary of the villages of excellence” project promoted by Lore, an Agency for the Development of Agriculture of the Sardinia Region. The goal of the project is a noble one: divulge enotourist itineraries as much as possible and with them share the oldest gastronomic traditions. There is more to Sardinia than the sea, in fact. This is an island where the biodiversity linked to microclimates and soils really makes a difference: yes, there are beaches and coasts, but also a huge inland area that is still undiscovered. This is immediately apparent by simply looking at the landscape. It’s equally incredible how this diversity can be found in local wines, cheeses and cured meats, in recipes as well as in dish names. That’s right: the Sardinian language finds its dialectal inflections in the various subregions, here too names of similar preparations present differences depending on the town in which they are made, even if - and this happens often - the distance between them is minimal. We travelled around Sardinia visiting towns that joined the project, exploring historical centers and the places of culture. We also scouted the surrounding landscape, with agriculture and pastures or unspoiled nature, beaches, woods, rocky bluffs and flat expanses of flowers and wild herbs. We found perfectly preserved Nuragic settlements, giants’ tombs, domus de Janas (witches dens); Romanesque churches and museums paying homage to the great personalities of the island known all over the world. But also a place boasting immense gastronomic heritage products, recipes very often privy only to locals. The list of types of traditional bread present on the island alone: dozens and dozens, different in shape, baking methods and customs associated. Many breads are linked to ancient rites, loaves are still crafted by skilled hands and preparation techniques still handed down for generations. It‘s furthermore no coincidence that many historical Sardinia recipes originate precisely from bread. A true symbol of an island that, for this reason too, can undoubtedly be considered an “almost continent”.
THE STORY
THE NON-VISIBLE dreams by Maurizio Onnis – artwork by Marco Delogu* What gives Sardinian food treasures the fullness of flavours is what is the nonvisible. The heat of the Sun on the vineyards in July. The freshness of the water irrigating the vegetable gardens in spring. The wind in the branches of the olive trees in October. The nourishment of the earth that feeding ancient grains in the winter. And then there‘s the time not spent in vain, aging in the barrels. The roughness of the stone that grinds the olives. The taste of dirt dusting the vegetables. The lightness of the semolina, which slides down from one grain after another. The musky scent of seasoned rennet. And moreover, the cold dawn awaiting the farmer on the doorstep every day. The time spent by the homemaker at the table making sweets. The hidden and silent knowledge transmitted to her by her mother, since she was a child. The breeder’s love for the lamb. The sleepless nights and daytime care for the sheep, safekeeping them relentlessly. The farmer’s devotion to the pig. His respect for the donkey. There’s brotherhood with the horse. The satisfaction of the peasant in gathering the fruits of the field, storing them, consuming them, because this is his stuff. In case, the satisfaction in offering it to the visitor, who is regarded as a sacred guest. And the texture of the preserves, the transformation of the fruit of the earth for the winter, the family, friends. All of this is non-visible. Not seen on television, for example. You cannot see any of this among the products on the shelves at the supermarket; you cannot see any o fit while buying online; you can not see it browsing through the pages of a magazine that speaks of Sardinia. All this can be seen, perceived, and savored only by staying here in Sardinia. That’s why the stranger must come to the island. Because only by standing on ist soil, holding a handful of ist dirt, exchanging words and glances with the farmer and the shepherd, weighing the tomato and onion in one‘s hand, looking at a backlit a glass of red wine, only in this way can one get to the heart of Sardinia. It is precisely this that gives flavor to our food treasures. That which is non-visible. The photo (facing the lighthouse) is by Marco Delogu, and is extracted from the book “Asinara”, published by Punctum Roma, words by Edoardo Albinati and Marco Delogu
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SARDINIA IN 8 ITINERARIES
1
AGGIUS AND INLAND GALLURA
A A WORD FROM THE CHEF A VERITABLE TREASURE CHEST OF INGREDIENTS Gallura is a unique area where I worked for many years and that gave me the opportunity to grow, learning many different recipes from the rest of Sardinia; plus learning about many ingredients and exclusive local crops. Gallura cuisine is rich in aromatic herbs and incredible contrasts between sweet and savoury. Among the dishes that I remember most are Li Ciusoni (artisan gnochetti) Li Brullioni or Bruglioni (ravioli filled with ricotta or cheese) and the very special Mazza frissa, fresh heavy cream whipped with semolina and used with fresh fava beans to shape gnocchi, or eaten on its own with only a little honey or sugar. Then there is the traditional dish par excellence, the Zuppa Gallurese: a soup made with simple and local ingredients normally presentbeen in every household, such as stale bread, bone broth, pecorino cheese and wild herbs. A real treat! And let’s not forget the wines: think Vermentino or Moscato whites (also produced in a sparkling wine version) and the red native grapes, offer fresh and enjoyable red wines. – Manuele Senis (Sa Scolla a Baradili)
ggius is a small village of 1500 inhabitants. It is located inland in the Gallura area, not far from Tempio Pausania. The village is dominated by Mount Limbara in a unique context of dry stone walls, nuraghe and promontories about 700 meters above sea level. The landscape is characteristic of Gallura: Mediterranean maquis vegetation, granite rock, elm, oak and cork trees (this part of the island is the most suitable for high quality cork stoppers) that alternate with flocks of cows and sheep, and vineyards. From the highest points of the small chain called Aggius Mountains,
you can see breathtaking views that reaches the Costa Smeralda. The town centre is characterized by houses boasting exposed granite walls; the village is furthermore enriched by four historic churches. Nearby, don’t forego visiting the artificial lake of Santa Degna, the Valle della Luna and the Izzana nuraghe dating back to the XVI-X century
BC and among the best preserved of the whole island. Also worth seeing is the museum dedicated to banditry that collects artifacts dating back to the smuggling period during the Piedmontese domination (1718-1861) and the Oliva Carta Cannas ethnographic museum dedicated to everyday objects and the ancient art of weaving. (photo Enrico Spanu)
THE WINES Cantina Mancini - Vermentino di Gallura Spumante Brut
Mancini in Gallura is synonymous with quality and tradition and among the first to bottle wines of excellent quality. In addition to still wines, we recommend their spumante Brut, made exclusively from Vermentino di Gallura grapes. Good aroma on the nose and a dry, yet fresh and fragrant mouth. Ideal with seafood appetizers. Consorzio San Michele - Vermentino di Gallura Sinfonia ‘16
Ten hectares of vineyards, near the rural church of San Michele, a group of friends-producers with a penchant for quiality founded the Consortium in 2012. Sinfonia, a white with great olfactory complexity boasts notes of loquat, almond and citrus in evidence. Excellent palate, fresh and savoury, with a clean and deep finish. Perfect with vegetable or seafood pasta courses. Cantina del Vermentino - Vermentino di Gallura Aghiloja Oro ‘16
The cooperative cellar unites donors hailing from Monti and its surroundings. The Vermentino Aghiloja Oro is of excellent quality, with fruity and herbaceous bouquet; on the palate it is sapid and enveloping. Perfect with medium-aged cheeses or with fish entrées. Cantina Tani Vini – Serranu ‘14
The winery was founded in 2008 and incluides an agriturismo farmhouse called Vermentino. Of particular note is the Serranu label, an excellent red wine obtained from traditional grapes: the 2014 vintage offers perfumes of scrub and red fruits; the palate is thick, with silky tannins and a fresh and fragrant taste. Excellent with stewed red meats.
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LA MADDALENA AND COASTAL GALLURA
a Maddalena is the largest island of an archipelago in the northeast of Sardinia. In all it consists of 60 islets that face the Gallura coast. There is only one inhabited centre by the same name and a coastal road of less than 50 km runs along the perimeter of the island. The coastlines are jagged, and characterized by
granite rock walls that in some cases plunge straight into the sea. These rocky bluffs alternate with beaches and delightful coves boasting white sand that is reflected in the crystalline sea. For a long time La Maddalena was a base of the Italian Navy, proof of this is the Nino Lamboglia naval museum. Within the village, reachable from
Palau with a 20-minute ferry ride, are beautiful eighteenth-century dwellings and the church of Santa Maria Maddalena. It’s wonderful to tour the hills, and explore the woods and the granite quarries; even more sensational is discovering the hidden bays, white sand dunes, breathtaking sea floor habitat and visiting the other islets. This unique insular environment gave life to the National Park of the Maddalena archipelago, born in 1994 and which includes about 18 thousand hectares of surface (of which 13 thousand are the marine extension). (photo Enrico Spanu)
THE WINES Cantina Vini Mura - Vermentino di Gallura Cheremi ‘16
Siblings Marianna and Salvatore Mura passionalely lead the family business which is located in one of the most suitable areas for Vermentino. The Cheremi is a white wine of great elegance and flavour, fresh and pleasantly acidic: excellent with seafood risotto. Cantina Zanatta - Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Le Saline ‘16
The Zanatta winery produces two reds and two whites. Among the latter, Le Saline represents the highest selection of Vermentino di Gallura. A part of the mass ages in oak and the result is a riot of olfactory complexity; savoury and of good depth. Perfect when paired with a bitter vegetable flan. Cantina Masone Mannu - Zurria ‘15
It is not just the white wines that star in the production of Masone Mannu. The goodness of some labels makes it clear that Gallura is also the ideal territory for traditional red wines. A fine example comes from Zurria, a wine made from carignano grapes vinified in steel: perfumes of Mediterranean scrubland, myrtle, but also of spices, blackberry and cherry. The mouth is rhythmic and juicy. Excellent if enjoyed alongside roasted veal fillet. Cantina Tondini - Moscato Lajcheddu
The winery produces Karagnanj, a great Vermentino di Gallura. But within the range we also find Lajcheddu, a splendid passito wine made from muscat grapes. The bewitching olfactory notes are all based on strawberry tree honey, ripe peach, apricot and dried fruit. The mouth is sweet, but never cloying, rather sapid and fresh. Well-paired with traditional desserts or with Fiore Sardo sheep’s milk cheese.
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A WORD FROM THE CHEF ODE TO LA MADDALENA, ALWAYS IN MY HEART I was born 34 years ago in the Sinis peninsula, a land with long history: home to Monti Prama giants and great traditional products like Vernaccia and bottarga. But my first experience was in Gallura, at Baia Sardinia for 6 months of seasonal work. It was the year 2000 when Costa Smeralda was a magnet. Quality ingredients were sadly not a priority in hotels back then, the preference was using products of large distributors. Then something changed. Over time, thanks to a vision acquired around the world, the search for quality ingredients finally started, no shortage of which in Gallura. La Maddalena is an island in Gallura with granite rocks and crystal clear beaches. Inland are mushrooms, wild herbs and farms; and then the sea’s bountiful catch: molluscs, crustaceans and other marine life. Besides ingredients, Gallura owns great gastronomic history, result of a peasant cuisine that blends elements of sea and land. Zuppa Gallurese or Chiusoni (hand-stretched pasta with a beef ragout) are sculpted in my memory, as well as Sa Mazza Frissa Gallurese, clotted cream made with the remains of fermented milk and cooked with wheat: humble yet tasty. The memories of this cuisine are alive and I bring them with me for inspiration. – Salvatore Camedda (Somu in San Vero Milis)
SARDINIA IN 8 ITINERARIES
OROSEI AND BARONIA
O A WORD FROM THE CHEF BREAD, SKEWER AND FLAME Orosei and its hinterland represent a wild, evocative area that preserves and passes on lively pastures fostering sheep, goat and pig products, but also great knowledge of wild herbs of pastoral tradition which is now cultural excellence. For a chef all this represents an ideal situation: herbs star opposite our local cooking protagonist, the spit. Myrtle, rosemary and laurel are like ornamental pearls on every traditional recipe, yet also perpetuated in new recipes of contemporary cuisine, such as myrtle-smoked sheep meat after marinating. Like in most of Sardinia, bread is full of meaning, uses and cultural values: over the years Carasau Bread has gained notoriety far beyond the simple vision of the “shepherd’s meal” during transhumance. Carasau bread and water now offer new forms and new interpretations of a crisp bread in textures capable of accommodating the most varied fillings. – Leonardo Marongiu (Hub in Macomer)
rosei is an important town on the east coast of the island, located in the sub-region of Baronia, in the Nuoro province. The valley formed by the mouth of the river Cedrino is surrounded by pastures and olive groves. And sea with more than 20 km of coastline, beaches alternate with cliffs overlooking the sea. This is the Gulf of Orosei. Agriculture and sheep herding developed mainly after WWII, with remediation of the area’s marshland. The town boasts churches like baroque San Giacomo, 15th century Sant’Antonio Abate or Chiesa delle Anime. There’s a special collection of puppet theaters from all over Europe in the Don Giovanni Guiso museum. The countryside is dotted with remains of Nuraghic settlements, in Rampinu and the village of Sa Linnarta. Despite proximity to the sea, the local cuisine has always featured pasture products. Sheep and cow’s milk cheeses abound, and recipes are typical of central Sardinia: stuffed pastas, carasau bread, meat roasts, cured meats. Sa Pompia, a native citrus fruit present only in Sardinia–and, more
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precisely, in the areas of Siniscola, Posada, Torpè and Orosei–is a real rarity until recently unknown even by the scientific community. Now it’s a Slow Food Presidia used for jams, liqueurs. The thick peel is candied and thus an ideal ingredient for various desserts. (photo Alessandro Cani)
I VINI Cantina Dorgali - Spumante Brut Rosa e Luna
This winery is the main cooperative in the area, specializing in Cannonau, which finds ideal conditions here (subsoil and sea breezes). In addition to still wines, the winery produces Rosa e Luna, a sparkling wine made from cannonau grapes. Obtained with the charmat method, it has a bouquet of rose and small berries, in the mouth it is slender and of good persistence. Ideal with raw red prawns. Cantina Berritta - Panzale Bianco ‘16
Berritta is a small winery in the Dorgali area, that’s specialized in Cannonau. This is the birthplace of Panzale, the fruit of the namesake vine, an native variety that‘s almost disappeared. It is a very particular white, with notes of loquat and cereals, with a rhythmic, peppery sip and a hint of tannins and a lot of flavor. Try it with white meats or medium-aged cheeses. Cantina Mossa - Cannonau di Sardegna Notante ‘16
This is an interesting and emerging winery led by Marco Mossa. We were struck by the Notante ‘16, Cannonau di Sardegna: fresh and juicy, very drinkable and elegant. On the palate it is fresh and savory, enveloping and silky. Perfect with a beef tartare.
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NUORO
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uoro, one of the four Sardinian provinces, is a strategically located charming mountain town that’s well connected by State Road 131. Culturally renowned Nuoro was nominated European Capital of Culture for 2020. “It’s the cradle of Sardinia’s identity - according to mayor Andrea Soddu - here many writers, poets, sculptors and famous artists were born and have
lived. Nuoro boastw two publishing houses, several museums and many cultural spaces”. The food culture is equally very rich. Artisan pastries and bread dominate the scene. The famous carasau bread was born in the Nuoro province. Pastas: sos maccarrones cravaos (dumplings), sos maccarrones de busa (bucatini) or sos maccarrones furriaos (gnocchi). Traditional Merca is a soup made with pasta, potatoes, tomato and topped with fresh sheep’s milk curds. Another valuable pasta is Su Filindeu, twisted strands of dough are stretched and woven into fabric. Pork reigns supreme: roast sucking pork, but also grilled or stewed sheep, goat and veal meats. Offal lovers should consider su zurrette: sheep’s blood cooked inside the animal’s stomach. Desserts star with sa sebada, a Nuoro specialty. Cheese is also the protagonist in casadinas cheese cakes. Candied orange peels, honey and toasted almond flakes make up s’aranzada, a crunchy dessert of ancient culinary tradition. (photo Alessandro Cani)
THE WINES Cantina di Orgosolo - Cannonau di Sardegna Neale ‘15
Cantina di Orgosolo was born a little over 10 years ago thanks tot he will of a few Orgosolo wine growers. Neale, vintage 2015 offers a complex nose and a very well balanced palate Aromas are reminiscent of rose, wild strawberry, cherry and a hint of mint. On the palate the wine is elegant, sapid and easy to sip. Try it with braised coratella offal. Cantina di Oliena – Cannonau di Sardegna Nepente di Oliena Classico Irilai ‘14
This is the area’s historical cooperative, and here the Cannonau also benefits from the sub-area of Nepente di Oliena. The Irilai offers clear hints of wilted rose, spices, red fruits and undergrowth; the mouth is flowing, wide and ethereal. Very good with spicy sheep cheeses. Cantina Gostolai - Vino Passito Su Gucciu
Leader in Gostolai is the artisan winemaker Tonino Arcadu. His specialization on Cannonau does not fear comparisons, even if his proposed labels range over several different types of wine. This is the case of Su Gucciu, a red passito made from different traditional grapes. On the palate it is sweet, never cloying; there is a tannic and fresh sensation that balances the sip and the aromas lend intense tones of ripe red fruit and pickled in alcohol. Perfect with blue cheeses. erborinati.
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A WORD FROM THE CHEF THE CRADLE OF LOCAL BREAD AND CHEESE CULTURE I am from Abbasanta, a small town called Guilcer. The local food is all based on products of the earth: from crops to pastures. Hence the local and traditional recipes I bring in my dishes. I also really like using poultry: sa pudda prena (stuffed chicken) is always on my menu. Among starters, su frattau: layers of carasau bread, tomato and pecorino. Then there’s fregula made with durum wheat semolina, produced throughout Sardinia, which in many areas of Nuoro is called Su Ministru. In any self-respecting meal meals end with cheese: fresh or aged, the most common are made with sheep’s milk, while goat cheese are produced in the mountain areas. A final note regarding bread. Sardinia boasts a huge tradition of bread making and Nuoro is considered the cradle of the culture of bread: sa fresa, su chivalzu, su zichi, the aforementioned carasau, are just some examples of the importance of bread here. .– Roberto Serra (Su Carduleu in Abbasanta)
SARDINIA IN 8 ITINERARIES
BAUNEI AND OGLIASTRA
B A WORD FROM THE CHEF SURF AND TURF, THE TWO SOULD OF MY HOMELAND Ogliastra and Baunei perfectly encapsulate the typical dualism of my land: from the Gennargentu massif to the white beaches. This is also reflected in local products and recipes: the Cannonau grape grows luxuriant in the mountains, but the one with more saline notes comes from the vineyards of Lotzorai and coastal areas. Then there are the fishery products. Reef mullet and bottarga (roe) of Arbatax, the oyster, mussel and clam farms. There are the aromas and flavors of the Ogliastra sea. The pastures instead feed sheep and goats in the areas of Baunei and Urzulei. Pigs are bred in Villagrande, home to famous ham. But Ogliastra also means stuffed pasta: culurgiones. Desserts too mark the presence of pastures and sheep: think Orrubiolus, ricotta and citrus fritters prepared especially in Baunei and in southern Ogliastra. This is only a small summary of the Ogliastra gastronomy and it is no coincidence that this area is also a land of centenarians: a record held for genetics, but above all for the quality and wholesomeness of the food consumed habitually. .– Clelia Bandini (Lucitta in Tortolì)
aunei is a small village 500 meters above sea level, which overlooks the coast and from which one can admire the southern part of the Gulf of Orosei. Under 4,000 inhabitants live in the village. The town is particular in ist hilly formation, at the summit of the hilltop is the seventeenth-century parish church of San Nicola di Bari, which was renovated in the twentieth century. Only 10 kilometers towards the coast is the village of Santa Maria Navarrese, known for its harbour and for the church of the Mille di Santa Maria di Navarra surrounded by centuries-old olive trees. Countless and wonderful beaches and coves: Cala Goloritzè, characterized by marble rocks that alternate with Mediterranean scrub vegetation; Cala Mariolu, surrounded by a 500-meter cliff; plus Cala Sisine and the best known Cala Luna, further north, that’s shared with the municipality of Dorgali. The beach is unique for its calcareous inlets that create craters reflecting on the unique colours of
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the sea. The inland soil structure is conducive to pastures that produce excellent goat and sheep cheeses. The crops are grapevine, olive trees and various vegetables. Here too the tradition of bread and pasta is well established. They have become a symbol of the entire island, but this is the birthplace of the Culurgiones that today boast Igp Ogliastra status. (photo Enrico Spanu)
THE WINES Cantina Pusole – Cannonau di Sardegna ‘16
The very young brothers Lorenzo and Roberto Pusole make wine and raise pigs. A few grape harvests have passed since the first bottling but right from the start the wines contained the essence of the Ogliastra territory. The 2016 version of Cannonau offers aromas of cherry, currants and spices that anticipate a fresh, juicy, elegant and flowing palate and a sapid finish. Excellent with roast pork chuck. Antichi Poderi Jerzu - Cannonau di Sardegna Passito Akratos
Founded in the 50s, this is the historic cooperative winery of Jerzu. Akratos is a very special passito made from Cannonau grapes. Incredible complexity of the nose with notes of luscious red fruit, dried fruit, candied citrus, chocolate and cherry preserved in alcohol. The palate is voluptuous and enveloping; tannins make drinking very pleasant. Pair it with fresh goat cheese. Cantina Alberto Loi - Leila Bianco ‘16
The family has been making wine in the Jerzu area for four generations. Cannonau therefore, but also monica, muristellu, vermentino, nasco, moscato and carignano. The very particular Leila Bianco is the result of cannonau grapes vinified in white. The golden yellow color anticipates scents of yellow, ripe and aromatic fruit. An intense fragrance of wild flowers segues naturally into wild herbs. On the palate it is structured and warm, sapid and tannic, with a tasty and very aromatic finish. Try it with stewed lamb with artichokes.
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ATZARA AND MANDROLISAI
tzara is a tiny village in the exact centre of the island, located southwest of Gennargentu in the subregion of Mandrolisai. It has been listed as one of the five most beautiful Sardinian villages in Italy, thanks to its architecture of “Catalan era” made of low granite buildings with vaulted oak beams. The economy and tradition of the place are
essentially based on viticulture and on the handicraft textile productions of clothes and carpets. It is worth visiting the museum of modern and contemporary art, to admire works by important Sardinian artists (from Ballero to Ciusa, from Delitala to Stanis Dessì, to name a few) who spent their holidays in Atzara. Also in the centre of town there are the fifteenth-century church of Sant’Antonio and the Romanesque Santa Maria Bambina. Outside the village there are nuraghic constructions, domus de Janas and giants’ tombs. The landscape is dominated by forests, Mediterranean scrub vegetation and many vineyards. Beautiful rows
cultivated with “alberello” system planted in old vines of cannonau, bovale and monica. Since ancient times the winemakers have “built” the vineyards by assembling the three grapes, because they believed that each of them could make the right contribution. It was also thanks to this way of conceiving the vineyard, in the early 80’s that the DOC Mandrolisai was born. This is one of the very few on the island that does not include the name of the vines but exclusively the name of the place. A great example for Sardinia that makes it clear that above all wine is the expression of the territory. (photo Elisabetta Loi)
THE WINES Cantina Fradiles - Mandrolisai Fradiles ‘15
Small winery, great wines. This is the first thought that Paolo Savoldo’s Fradiles stimulates. This Mandrolisai is a classic of the winery, made from bovale, cannonau and monica (in the area’s classic assembly). The bouquet is of dark red fruit, sweet spices, hints of undergrowth, resin and bark. On the palate it is warm and soft, offering balsamic freshness and tannins. Try it with pasta with wild boar ragout, or with porcini mushrooms. Cantina Bingiateris - Mandrolisai Lollòre ‘13
Bingiateris is Sardinian for winemakers: here seven friends got together to make good wine. Lollòre is the result of the area‘s classic assembly plus other native grape varieties. The vineyards are located at 600 meters above sea level, and their yield per hectare does not exceed 40 quintals. The aromas are warm and mellow, ranging from spices to fruit pickled in alcohol, including balsamic notes and Mediterranean scrub. The palate is enveloping and satisfying; the finish is long and tasty. Excellent with sheep stew. Cantina del Mandrolisai – Mandrolisai Vecchie Viti ‘15
This is the local cooperative winery. Vecchie Viti, obtained only from the oldest vines, on the nose offers notes of plum, cherry pickled in alcohol, undergrowth and tobacco; the palate is fresh, balsamic and sapid. Excellent with beef stews. Cantina Carboni – Pin8
The Ortueri area produces Mandrolisai grapes, reds from traditional grapes, a dry white and a white passito. The last born is Pin8, a red wine made with dried aleatico grapes. Aromas range from ripe red fruit to sweet spices, candied orange to chocolate and licorice. The palate is sweet, enveloping and soft, but also fresh and aromatic. Excellent with chocolate desserts.
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A WORD FROM THE CHEF THE LAND OF CORDULA AND EASTER SUCCU STUFAU I am from Mamoiada, a village in the Barbagia. This is territory with great wine-growing vocation where the alberona cannonau is cultivated at high altitudes. Similarly to Mandrolisai, southern Barbagia is an area dedicated for centuries to viticulture with wines made from bovale sardo, cannonau and monica grapes. Not only wine, however: think countless wild herbs like thyme and helichrysum. The woods provide us with mushrooms, chestnuts, hazelnuts, walnuts and almonds (Tonara is famous for its nougat). The breeding of pigs, sheep and goats give us cheese, cured meats and various roasted, stewed or boiled meat cuts. Among the historical recipes is cordula, intertwined sheep innards grilled or stewed in sauce. Fresh pasta is the protagonist: gnocchetti, ricotta and cheese-filled ravioli and Sebadas. One of the most characteristic dishes is Su Succu Stufau, typically made for Easter: saffron tagliolini cooked in a pan with pecorino cheese, sheep’s broth and a beaten egg. A great traditional dish.– Mauro Ladu (Cucina.eat in Cagliari)
SARDINIA IN 8 ITINERARIES
CABRAS AND ORISTANESE
L A WORD FROM THE CHEF WEDGE CLAMS, BOTTARGA, ARTICHOKES… PARADISE Lucky is the man who notices the magnificence of this land of gigantic potential. Cabras, Sinis Peninsula: a good land. For me, in the past, living close to Cabras and having a restaurant in Oristano meant everything. I’d go out in the morning and return with everything I needed. The biggest joy was putting that unique land in my cuisine. Fishy ponds and vineyards of Vernaccia, fields of melons and bottarga farms. Artichokes of the Sinis (that thrive thanks to a particular microclimate), and the gulf’s wedge clams, and even the rice, wheat and legumes... The wind that blows on that soil has always brought excellent currents. It’s precisely those currents that still inspire my dishes. Two above all: a risotto with artichokes, ricotta mùstia and sapa; and a dessert consisting of melon, vernaccia and zabaione. Modern cuisine dishes that always take me back in time and make the tradition of Cabras and the whole of Oristano feel alive in me... – Pierluigi Fais (Josto a Cagliari)
ocated north of Oristano, Cabras is a town of almost 10 thousand inhabitants overlooking the pond that bears the same name, also known as Mari Pontis. The landscape is characterized by unspoiled nature. The nearest beaches (over 30 kilometers long, including the famous Maimoni, Mari Ermi and Is Arutas) still have the charm of the nonurbanized coastline, and include the fascinating protected marine area of Sinis. The beaches of San Giovani di Sinis, with its fine white sand, are also unmissable. The origins of this area are ancient, witness of this are various nuraghic complexes and the village of Cuccuru is Arrius, dating back to the Neolithic period. But Cabras is also the place where the most important discovery of the last decades has been made: the discovery of the
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Giants of Mont’e Prama. These are plaster statues dating back to the Iron Age (VIII century A.C.). In regard to food, the seafood cuisine is the most widespread in this area. The main product is bottarga (dried mullet eggs) which is used both as an ingredient (grated), and also sliced and eaten with bread, celery and a drizzle of olive oil, or with artichokes. (photo Alessandro Cani)
THE WINES Cantina della Vernaccia - Vernaccia di Oristano Jughissa ‘08
The Vernaccia wine cellar, already known as Cantina del Rimedio, is a cooperative specialized in the production of oxidative wines typical of this area. The Jughissa is their pride and the 2008 vintage won Tre Bicchieri recognition in the Vini d’Italia del Gambero Rosso guide. Scents of dried fruit, sweet spices, candied citrus peel, traces of undergrowth grace the bouquet. On the palate the wine is dry, sapid, warm and enveloping. Ideally paired with traditional desserts, but also with bottarga grated over pasta. Cantina Contini Barrile ‘14
The Contini winery is one of the largest family estates on the island. The Barrile is their most prestigious red, the result of the local grape Nieddera to which are added small percentages of other traditional red grapes. Aged in French oak barrels, the wine offers aromas of red fruit, undergrowth and Mediterranean scrub. On the palate the wine is thick, with silky tannin and a fresh and clean finish. Perfect with wild boar. Cantina Famiglia Orro – Karesia ‘11
Davide Orro is the owner of this beautiful artisan and family run winery. Inside the structure there is also a laboratory for the production of pickles and teaching farm. Only two wine grapes are used: Nieddera and Vernaccia di Oristano. Karesia is produced from this last variety, this is a particular oxidative wine aged in cherry barrels. Of great olfactory complexity, it lends a slender, fresh and very savoury sip. Particular and fascinating when paired with aged and tasty pecorino.
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SANT’ANTIOCO AND SULCIS
ant’Antioco is an island in the south west, joined to Sardinia with an artificial isthmus. The namesake town was founded by Phoenicians in 770 BC. Under Roman rule it was one of the most prosperous cities on the island together with Cagliari. In order to fully understand the local history visit two museums: the ethnographic and the archaeological mu-
seum. In addition to Nuraghic settlements, are Menhirs and giants’ tombs. The most beautiful and fascinating beaches are Maladroxia, Coaquaddus, Cala Sapone and Cala Grotta. The loocal gastronomy relies on simple preparations and local ingredients. Red tuna, called the pig of the sea, since no part of this fish is thrown away. Cheeses are made with sheep’s, cow’s and goats’s milk. The pasta tradition is equally important: think cassulli carlofortini (similar to gnocchetti) or the sappueddus of Calasetta (small irregular shapes of wholemeal pasta); but also bread like Sa Tunda di Teulada, a hard round loaf with 7 points, one for each day of the week. Sulcis is the birthplace of Carignano, an ancient vine that is still grown here, thanks to centenary vineyards planted with alberello system on sand. A unique vine heritage in the world. (photo Enrico Spanu)
THE WINES Cantina Giba - Carignano del Sulcis 6Mura ‘12
Giba is a small artisan winery that produces only Vermentino and Carignano. 6Mura is obtained from the best vines of this last variety, a dense red with a good body, with hints of Mediterranean scrub, dark ripe fruit and undergrowth. The mouth is warm, creamy, with presence of tannin but silky and with a fresh and balsamic finish. Excellent with stewed goat. Cantina Mesa - Vermentino di Sardegna Opale ‘15
In addition to the carignano, the area also grows Syrah and Vermentino grapes. From this last variety comes the Opale, a white that lends its best after aging a few years. The 2015 version smells of orange blossom, almond and exotic fruit, on the palate the wine is sapid, slim, deep and elegant. Best when paired with seafood fregula. Cantina Sardus Pater - Carignano del Sulcis Sup. Arruga ‘13
This is the Sant’Antioco cooperative which counts on dozens of contributors. The strongpoint wine is Arruga, made exclusively from 100-year-old Carignano grapes, grown on the sands of the island of Sant’Antioco. Scents of blackberry and spices, on the palate the wine is enveloping, structured and with a mint finish. Excellent with stewed boar. Cantina di Santadi - Carignano del Sulcis Rocca Rubia Ris. ‘14
The rebirth of quality viticulture in Sulcis is owed to this leading Sardinia winery, since the mid-70s. The Rocca Rubia is a big Carignano that stands out also for its favourable price compared to the constant quality. The 2014 version smells of sweet spices, myrtle and plum, the mouth is fresh and flowing, the finish is long and tasty. Pair it with grilled beef fillet.
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MARCH 2018
A WORD FROM THE CHEF I’VE TRAVELLED THE WORLD, BUT I LOVE THIS PLACE II was born in Carbonia from a family owning a restaurant with a hotel. Those were different times, but the spirit was right. A spirit that brought me back to Sant’Antioco after my studies where I joined my mother in the kitchen. I was lucky enough to travel the world, compare myself against and cook with many colleagues. In the end, however, there is nothing better than living here: a beautiful island that provides ingredients of the highest level. The waters are crystal clear and rich in fish: crustaceans, mollusks, blue fish and small oily fish catch. Not to mention the highly prized red tuna, which is an important element of our economy. I love farms very much: Sulcis has wonderful countryside and the grass that feeds the animals is flavored with the nearby sea’s saltiness. Then there are vegetables (particular since grown on volcanic soils) and wines, Carignano, first. Among the local dishes I prefer are sappueddus (small strips of wholemeal semolina) seasoned with lamb ragout or grouper and saffron in the “surf” version, or Pilau, a typical local fregula topped with molluscs and crustaceans. – Achille Pinna (Da Achille in Sant’Antioco)
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GAMBERO ROSSO is a Registered Trademark used under license by GR USA CORP Copyright by GAMBERO ROSSO S.P.A. 2018. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. GR USA CORP is not responsible for loss, damage, or any other injury as to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork or any other unsolicited materials. March 2018