Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food n.129

year 22 - number 129 - may 2019 - gamberorosso.it

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

Sommelier 2.0 The boys and girls who changed the profession VALLE ISARCO At the foot of the majestic peaks of the Dolomites, a territory at the crossroads of different cultures, where cuisine marries beautifully with the savoury and elegant whites of the region

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TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS Focus on Singapore. Seafood and meat-based restaurants face-off in a hyper-competitive setting, boasting dreamy Italian wine cellars and super fresh ingredients

ď ś

GIOVANNI SANTINI Portrait of great chefs in 3 signature dishes: the new generation of the Canneto sull'Oglio Fisherman, born from Antonio and Nadia

SOMMARIO 3

year 22 - number 129 - may 2019 - gamberorosso.it

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

4 8  12   14   16   24 

Sommelier 2.0 The boys who changed the profession VALLE ISARCO At the foot of the majestic peaks of the Dolomites, a territory at the crossroads of different cultures, where cuisine marries beautifully with the savoury and elegant whites of the region



TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS Focus on Singapore. Seafood and meat-based restaurants face-off in a hyper-competitive setting, boasting dreamy Italian wine cellars and super fresh ingredients



GIOVANNI SANTINI Portrait of great chefs in 3 signature dishes: the new generation of the Canneto sull'Oglio Fisherman, born from Antonio and Nadia

 34   52   64 

Natural wine replaces origin denominations News Wine of the Month Top Italian Restaurants in Singapore Vini d’Italia event: Zurich Singapore-China. The two faces of the Asian market Trade shows now focus on business capitals Vinexpo sets the course for Paris Sommelier 2.0. The Boys and Girls who changed the profession Giovanni Santini. Nature, Simplicity, Knowledge The Great Northern Whites. In the Valle Isarco amid vineyards, dolomites and climate change

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12 64

52

Natural wine replaces origin denominations I was wandering through the streets of Singapore in search of an Italian restaurant, of which I had spoken very well, and therefore eligible to be a part of our guide, when I came across a nice wine bar serving natural wines, the first in town. I browsed the shelves, so much research in thier choices, so many virtuous producers, the protected denomination of origin wines were only a ghandful, especially between Italians and French. Eye-catching, impactful labels, not regulated by the production laws, even among producers certainly of value, even very high value. “Nobody looks at denomination of origin anymore, certainly among natural wine drinkers and even producers, who actually don’t want it anymore. The natural wine has changed hierarchies”, Fabrizio Pagliardi, manager of the excellent Barnaba wine bar in the center of Rome, told me just before leaving. In Singapore, the concept was confirmed. We found that to be true also in many wine bars, from Sydney, to San Francisco, from Moscow to Copenhagen: “Forget all about the grape variety, the area, the country and the classic opinion. Instead go for what your palate, your nose & your guts want” As read on the opening page of the wine list at Manfreds, one of the most sought after in Northern Europe. For natural wine the appellations of origin have become a nuisance, they are no longer an added value, they tell little by now. Often also due to meaningless limitations. Meanwhile, at the trade shows dedicated to these wines, which ignite my curiosity, I increasingly hear producers concerned about talking about what is NOT used (no barrique, unfined, unfiltered, un-everything), rather than proudly claiming the position of their vineyards, the production history of the winery or area. A break-up scheme that is evidently paying off in commercial terms, especially for the many wineries that have a recent history and that can position themselves in a segment with a huge global growth, driven by the generation of yours truly, between 25 and 35 years old. Clearly this discourse leaves aside the great Appellations, from Champagne to Barolo, to Brunello di Montalcino, very few producers would dream of not boasting such strong commercial names on the label. What will happen to the others? Certainly, many disciplines must be rethought, the archaic language that distinguishes them, revising parameters and descriptions: can a wine still be discarded by the commission only for a more or less accentuated color?!?

And, therefore, make it an instrument of extraordinary marketing and not only of quality control. Otherwise, the road is already marked: the corporate brand cancels the denomination.

— Lorenzo Ruggeri

GAMBERO ROSSO

3

MAY 2019

NEWS

“I NO LONGER FEEL AN EMOTION” IN 6 MONTHS SWEDISH MAGNUS NILSSON CLOSED HIS WORLD-FAMOUS RESTAURANT FÄVIKEN FOR GOOD

by Livia Montagnoli At the end of 2019 Fäviken will close for good. Magnus Nilsson decided that the restaurant he designed and conducted it for 11 years in one of the most remote (and inhospitable) lands on the planet, about 600 kilometers north of Stockholm, in the county of Jämtland. The young Swedish chef, who at the time of the opening was just 24 years old ("all I wanted to do was cook my food, in my restaurant"), matured in symbiosis with a territory which inevitably influenced the production times and use of ingredients, in the service of "a type of restaurant that did not exist before and probably will no longer exist after Fäviken", said the chef in the farewell video published by the Los Angeles Times. And it's precisely on the thrill of living and working in such a peculiar context that Nillson has relied on all these years, capable of making Fäviken one of the most coveted gastronomic destinations of gourmet travelers from all over the world (probably also due to the challenge of reaching it). But, Nilsson continues in his on-camera confession, "some time ago I got out of bed and, for the first time in my life, I didn't feel the thrill of going to work. I began to understand that the end had come for Faviken." And, he continues, "I didn't want to offer a fake experience, to do something that wasn't up to what I did for the past 11 years". Not a sudden decision, and in fact considered to avoid inconvenience to the team that was the engine of Fäviken - "I gave them time to find other options" - but also to avoid the last table booking (and this is not good news for those who hoped to get one at the last minute): “I didn't want people to come only after knowing that we would close forever. This is why I waited to announce the closure until I had the guarantee of having "sold" all the available seats on the reservations book". Thus began the last six months of Fäviken, which will close at the end of December 2019, before the farewell: "I want these to be the best six months

ever, working as if everything were normal". Plans for the future? In 2018 Nilsson – who is also the star of an episode of the Chef's Table series – launched a series of collateral projects based on a more informal approach, for all hours of the day.

It's hard to think that the experience can continue beyond the restaurant (but the sale of cured meats and the Undersaker store will remain open). And besides, the chef's conclusions are clear: “I have no other plans in mind. "When I am done here I am going to spend time with my family, reflect, fish, garden, write, rest and get fit, both physically and mentally. I am not going to lie, I am a little bit tired." This reflection once again raises the question of the need to rethink the tight rhythms of kitchens, a position that chefs are increasingly adopting. While for Magnus the words of esteem of René Redzepi already arrived, saddened by the closure of Faviken, "one of the most memorable meals ever": "Good luck Magnus! We look forward to knowing what will happen next." An expectation shared by many.

GAMBERO ROSSO

4

MAY 2019

NEWS

BEES WILL SAVE THE PLANET. FROM NOTRE DAME TO MORGAN FREEMAN . HERE IS WHO’S ADVOCATING

by Livia Montagnoli

2

Morgan Freeman's passion for beekeeping is not a new thing. But it makes the news in times of renewed interest for bees, in focusing on the questions regarding the safeguarding of our planet. In the theme of biodiversity: for Greenpeace, constantly renewing the Save the bees campaign, bees – threatened by the rampant pollution of pesticides used by intensive agriculture and climate change – pollinate 70 food crops out of 100, thus protecting food diversity, and, as a direct consequence, our nutritional needs. Also making the news, on the sidelines of the devastating fire in the Paris cathedral of Notre Dame, is the story of the hives miraculously that escaped the flames. First placing them on the roof of the cathedral in 2013 was the Beeopic association, to develop an urban beekeeping project and protection of biodiversity. About 180 thousand bees treated by the beekeeper Nicolas Geant, who ensure a production of honey of 75 kilos a year, sold at the Notre Dame store. Not surprisingly, among the projects presented for the reconstruction of the roof and the main spire of the church which were destroyed by the fire, a group of French architects proposed to insist on the ecological vocation of the building, with the idea Notre Dame de Paris in "green for all of us". Meaning installing a glass and steel didactic greenhouse to replace the damaged roof, making the attic of the cathedral a visitable space dedicated to horticulture and beekeeping, with

GAMBERO ROSSO

dozens of beehives housed inside the spire. A clearly utopian project, which, however, once again emphasizes the need to carve out protected environmental oases even in larger cities. The most immediate solution to counter the risk of extinction of bees, on the other hand, is to encourage organic farming. And Morgan Freeman, in spite of himself, has become the emblem of a good practice that earned him the attention of the spotlights evenoff the red carpet. Long-term estimates say that between 1947 and 2005, the United States lost 59% of the bee colonies on a territory where pesticide abuse is a practice that's almost protected by state laws. Therefore it is important that the actor, now over the age of eighty, has decided to engage in the front line: in 2014 he told Americans at the Jimmy Fallon talk show, about his passion for beekeeping. A few years later, his 50-hectare estate in Mississippi now hosts 26 beehives that Freeman personally tends to with the help of a gardener, in the pristine space that visitors won't hesitate to describe as a veritable garden of Eden, among magnolia trees and fields of lavender. On the ranch, in fact, bees are free to lead their existence, and no one deprives them of honey. In this regard, Freeman said he was uninterested in starting a honey production business, confirming his sole purpose of his project: to guarantee safe space for bees. And thus contribute, albeit small, to the preservation of the planet.

5

MAY 2019

NEWS

PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA. IMPEDING FALSE WINES IN ITALY, CHILE AND PORTUGAL The protection activity on foreign markets in regards to Primitivo di Manduria DOP by the consortium chaired by Mauro Di Maggio hasn't stopped. The latest results say that deceptive brands have been blocked in Italy, Chile and Portugal and that the opposition to some labels in Germany, France and South Africa is also being negotiated.

"Precisely because this wine is so loved abroad," explains Di Maggio, "Primitivo di Manduria is the product on which imitation phenomena must be most concentrated. This is a situation to which we have responded by expanding our vigilance and protection also in view of the wine's production growth". The balance of three years of activity is very encouraging. In the legal battles faced by the Consortium 6 cases were won in Italy, one in Spain and one in Portugal; plus one in Chile and one in China. From the international market, four brands with the European Union wording have been eliminated. The Apulian PDO, which has a turnover of 120 million euro, 70% of which derives from export, in recording in 2018 a significant production growth of 15%, at 20 million bottles. The defense strategy is developing two-fold: internationally, by blocking all deceptive brands that directly recall or imitate the name; and on the other hand, the samples on sale are being taken and analyzed in the large-scale distribution circuit in the laboratory to verify inconsistencies with the specification. For this reason, the agreement with the supervisory agents for 2019-21 has been renewed, increasing inspections by 30%, which will also include stores, retail and the Internet.

CALIFORNIA. IN NAPA VALLEY, WINE TOURISM IS A DRIVING FORCE IN THE ECONOMY Wine tourism is the main asset of one of the most famous wine-growing areas in the world: Napa Valley. The fundamentals of this area were illustrated during the National travel tourism week (Nttw), seven full days dedicated to tourism, founded in 1983 by President R. Reagan and scheduled until Saturday 11 May throughout the country. In the US, tourism today is worth 2,500 billion euro, with 16 million employees in 2018. And in the Napa region, where over 80% of national wine production is concentrated, wine (first sector for employees) is what's driving tourism and the economy. Suffice it to say that in 2018 there were 3.8 million visitors to this area (20% of which foreign) with an average daily expenditure of almost 500 dollars, considering an average family of four, mainly spent in restaurant meals (118 dollars ) and wine purchases in the cellar (85 dollars). In particular, tourists present in Napa Valley are mainly attracted by the wine-related experience: in the survey, entrusted to the Destination Analysts research company, tasting wine in wineries is indicated by 80% of visitors, followed by meals in restaurants (65.2%), followed by vineyard tours (45.3%), shopping (39.8%) and the famous and popular Napa Valley wine train (27.6%). Each tourist, in 2018, visited an average of 3.7 wineries (compared to 3.1 recorded in 2016) participating in an average of 1.4 tastings. As many as 97.2% of respondents said they had made at least one winery visit and 73.8% had joined a wine tasting. Four out of ten wine tourists book their visits in advance, a percentage that rises to 50% for those staying overnight in the area. Compared to total attendance, over 35% of visitors in 2018 have slept at least one night in local accommodation facilities.

GAMBERO ROSSO

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MAY 2019

NEWS

MARKETS. THE FREE TRADE AGREEMENT INCREASES EU WINE IN JAPAN

The first positive effects of the free trade agreement between the European Union and Japan, which started last February, reducing or eliminating tariff barriers (as in the case of wine, which immediately reduced tariffs to zero) are beginning to surface. Japanese imports of wine, pork and cheese have increased significantly.

Wine, in particular, according to data from the local Ministry of Finance, grew by 40% compared to last year, with France, Italy and Spain recording a significant increase. At the same time, Chilean wines - formidable competitors on this market - thanks to the agreements already in force, have recorded a decline of around 30% in the same period. European bottled wines are benefiting from the elimination of the heavy tariffs in force until January 31st: 31% on sparkling, 15% on bottled and 19.3% on bulk >2 liters. But also benefiting from other facilitations, such as the authorization to oenological practices, previously not recognized by the Japanese legislation, and the elimination of the costs associated with the registration of the European Ig in the Japanese market. The result of this is that many consumers are approaching the wine product thanks to strong shelf price reductions, practiced by wine shops and retailers. The long-term effects of this trade agreement with Europe could also bring about a change in Japanese consumption habits. The European Union is very confident in this treaty, which provides for the protection of over 200 geographical indications (including 100 related to wines). Overall, the European food export to Japan is worth 5.7 billion euro a year, which is the fourth EU customer and is considered a high value-added market. As for Italy, there are 14,921 Italian companies that export products to the Japanese market for a value of 6.6 billion euro, compared to 4.4 billion euro of imports, with a commercial profit of 2.2 billion.

GAMBERO ROSSO

7

MAY 2019

TUSCANY. LEONARDO DA VINCI'S WINE KNOWLEDGE BECOMES A METHOD AND ALSO A MUSEUM

As part of Leonardo's creative genius is his relationship with wine. The idea of the Leonardo da Vinci spa (a company of the Romagna-based group Caviro) takes shape, in the attempt to recover the techniques suggested by Leonardo to make wine, transforming them into a viticultural and enological specification (patented and secret) for the benefit of quality productions, especially Sangiovese based wines. Everything started with a letter sent in 1515 by the "genius" to his farmer from Fiesole, containing notes on the method, starting from winemaking systems, today given as established but which for the time were pioneering, like maximizing the quality of grapes, fertilization with basic substances and optimization of oenological transformation through fermentation in closed barrels and frequent decanting. The work of reconstruction and recovery of Leonardo's knowledge is part of an all-round project that is also bringing together cultural aspects, 500 years after the death of the Italian scientist and artist. In fact, the company has chosen to make its contribution to the reopening of the "Ideal Leonardo Da Vinci Museum", the first dedicated to the complexity of Leonardo: the artist, scientist, inventor and designer and to the world of Leonardism, to which the "Leonardo Museum and the Renaissance of Wine" is connected. This is a new structure built inside Villa da Vinci, which will document and deepen the relations of the "genius" with agriculture and the wine world. The two museums opened to the public May 2 in Vinci, the well-known village in the province of Florence.

NEWS

WINE OF THE MONTH

GRECO DI TUFO MINIERE '16 CANTINE DELL'ANGELO via Santa Lucia, 32 Tufo (AV) www.cantinedellangelo.com ex-cellar price: 17 euros + taxes The Muto family work their vineyards of Greco situated over the historic sulphur mines in Tufo. Five hectares of terrain are cultivated personally by Angelo, who represents the third generation of family viticulturists, and Maria Nuzzolo. These give rise to a selection of Greco di Tufo wines that are among the most original and personal of the appellation. In the glass, Torrefavale and Minieri embody the spirit of the place, driven by flavor and freshness and tending towards mineral notes, with the Miniere even stronger in its hints of sulphur.

Their 2016 Miniere is a Greco di Tufo that does a good job expressing its territory. It’s a moving wine, rich in flavor and charm, uniquely sulphureous. On the nose it offers up notes of white fruit and Mediterranean scrubland. On the palate it proves savory, to say the least, salty and vibrant, extremely juicy and delicately tannic, with an energetic, endless finish.

GAMBERO ROSSO

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MAY 2019

CALENDAR CALENDAR

2019 Worldtour Worldtour

2019 2020 2020

GamberoRossoInternational

GamberoRossoInternational

2019 OCTOBER

JUNE

03

WASHINGTON DC - USA

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

05

BOSTON - USA

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

10

ATLANTA - USA

Vini d’Italia "ANTEPRIME"

12

SAN DIEGO - USA

Vini d’Italia "ANTEPRIME"

27 ROMA - Italy

trebicchieri

30 TOKYO - Japan

trebicchieri

NOVEMBER

04 SEOUL - Korea

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

06 SHANGHAI - China

trebicchieri

08 CHENGDU - China

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

25 MOSCOW - Russia

trebicchieri

27 ST. PETERSBURG - Russia

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

2020 MARCH

JANUARY

19-26 WINE&SEA - II EDITION 27

MUNICH - Germany

trebicchieri

29

BERLIN - Germany

Vini d'Italia

03 SAN FRANCISCO - Usa

trebicchieri

05 LOS ANGELES - Usa

trebicchieri

14 DUSSELDORF - Germany

trebicchieri PROWEIN Special

30 SALZBURG - Austria

trebicchieri

APRIL

FEBRUARY

19 VERONA - Italy

trebicchieri VINITALY Special

03 STOCKHOLM - Sweden

trebicchieri

05 COPENHAGEN - Denmark

Vini d'Italia

11 PARIS - France

trebicchieri Vinexpo Special

21 MEXICO CITY - Mexico

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

24 MIAMI - USA

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

06 CALGARY - Canada

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

26 CHICAGO - USA

trebicchieri

08 VANCOUVER - Canada

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

28 NEW YORK - USA

trebicchieri

22 HO CHI MINH - Vietnam

Top Italian Wines Roadshow

27 HONG KONG - China

trebicchieri VINEXPO Special

MAY

04 MONTREAL - Canada

trebicchieri

JUNE

01 BEIJING - China

Sponsor

trebicchieri

GAMBERO ROSSO X GIANNI VALENTINI

Gianni Valentini and his Tuscany: modern style wine tourism Cleanliness, energy, enjoyment.

Wine-models for the “new” Maremma

1

Massa Marittima is a small and charming medieval town on the Collline Metallifere in the province of Grosseto. From here, taking the road that descends towards the Gulf of Follonica, you’ll come across the Valentini family’s wine and agritourism farm business. Giovanni – together with his sons Luca, a graduate in Oenology at the prestigious Institute of San Michele all’Adige, and Chiara who studies Economics in Pisa – tends to 19 hectares, of which 6.5 are vineyards. «Even if our link with agriculture has lasted for five generations, we started producing and bottling our wine only in 2005 – says Giovanni – In the vineyard we grow native grapes: sangio-

Labels that illustrate territory but that speak new languages in a brand new winery vese, vermentino, black malvasia.

But we also have plots with merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah and alicante buchet. We produce local wines, linked to Tuscan tradition, but we like to accompany them with labels made with cuts from international varieties».

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MAY 2019

For several years now the Valentini family company has represented one of the most dynamic realities of the area of the denomination of Monteregio di Massa Marittima. The company labels possess a style marked by aromatic cleanliness and gustatory energy, pleasantness and drinkability, characteristics that Maremma wines are not always able to express adequately, and that instead we find in the highly enjoyable Sangiovese ‘17, a wine that nevertheless comes from a very warm vintage, boasting full and intense aromas and a tasty and continuous mouth, with a savory finish. Equally good is the Monteregio di Massa Marittima ‘16, 80% Sangiovese and the remaining 20% entrusted in equal parts to merlot and cabernet sauvignon: it shows fruity and spicy aromas, it is enjoyable in the smooth and relaxed sip.

The winery is on the northern border of the Tuscan Maremma, an area with Mediterranean climate, with mild, rainy winters and hot, dry summers, cooled by sea breezes coming from the nearby Tyrrhenian coast: «The soils on which our vineyards exist are clayey and

GAMBERO ROSSO X GIANNI VALENTINI

1. The tasting room of the Valentini Estate in Valpiana 2. The rows of vines in the municipality of Massa Marittima: there are over 6 hectares of vineyards belonging to the Tuscan company 3. The barrel room: a sort of temple dedicated to aging and maturing wine 4. One of the common areas within the agritourism facility

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Ulysses on the run from the Cyclops is the stylized symbol of the cellar

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rich in skeleton, with the presence of calcareous rocks, perfect for the cultivation of excellent quality grapes, if taking into account yields per hectare». Valentini is a growing company: «We acquired the planting rights for another hectare – Giovanni tells us – that will be planted next year. Last year we produced, and sold, 40,000 bottles; this year we have already bottled 50,000 and we expect 60,000 for the next: we are aiming for 100,000 bottles, maximum ca-

pacity achievable in the spaces of the new cellar built last year ». But there is not only wine in the activities of the Valentini family: «For several years we have also been carrying out a dynamic farm-tourism activity, always managed by our family. For us wine tourism is a fundamental component of the company: we sell about 45% of our production directly here, while another 45% takes the road of foreign markets, especially Germany, Switzerland and Austria».

 Valentini - Massa Marittima (GR) - loc. Valpiana

podere Fiordaliso, 69 - 0566918058 - agricolavalentini.it

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MAY 2019

«When we started with this activity, in 2005, we consulted various graphic studios to create our logo. Among the various proposals there was also the one designed by artist Donato Buonanno who greatly impressed us for the beauty of the symbol and its density of meanings. The artist wanted to represent, in a very stylized way, the famous episode of Homer’s Odyssey, in which Odysseus and his companions flee the cave of the Cyclops. So in our logo we can see, starting from the top, the eye of the Cyclops, the pointed pole used to blind Polyphemus (represented by the two dashes above and below the eye), a bunch of grapes that represents the wine that Odysseus offers the Cyclops to get him drunk and, finally, an overturned chalice like the one the giant threw to the ground when he fell asleep drunk.»

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN SINGAPORE

AMÒ 33 Hongkong Street - Singapore

BRACI 52 Boat Quay, Level 5/6 -

+65 67237733

Singapore - +65 68661933

www.amorestaurant.sg

www.braci.sg

Average Price: $ 35

Average Price: $ 150

This is one the upcoming res-

Have you ever heard of the wow

taurants when it comes to

effect? Well, that’s what you’re

Italian meals in town. Opened

going to experience when you

by starred Chef Beppe De Vito, Amò is at

dine at Braci. This is one of the

the same a casual dining restaurant and

most contemporary style of Italian cucina

a solid pizzeria. Actually we believe that

abroad, refined but straight to the point.

Amò delivers the best pies in town made

Chef Beppe de Vito and Head Che Mirko

with natural leaven, semolina and ex-

Febbrile deliver a modern experience

tra virgin olive oil. They’re fragrant, light,

based on the use of the Josper oven and

topped with gourmet ingredients such

the grill. Super high quality ingredients are

as the Margherita Dop, the Romana with

carefully managed, dishes are very well

anchovies and capers, or the version with

presented but first of all they’re extremely

stracciatella, prosciutto, arugula and fig

tasty. Among the classics, we suggest the

vincotto. Among the classics, we suggest

taglioni sea urchin and caviar or the black

the tagliolini with cuttlefish and squid ink

pork, fava beans and celeriac. Few seats,

or the grilled octupus with tasty friggitelli

an elegant setting, and a professional

peppers. Friendly service and good quality

service complete the packaghe. Cashless

per value ratio.

policy.

BUONA TERRA 29 Scotts Road - Singapore +65 67330209 www.buonaterra.com.sg Average Price: $ 160 Buona terra, buona cucina. The couple works like clockwork: Denis Lucchi, young Brescia native chef in the kitchen, and Gabriele Rizzardi, like many native of Emilia, loves his wine and mans the front of the house. Sleek and refined interiors complement the clean and crisp flavours of the kitchen, which relies on extraordinary ingredients. Have Denis decide when taking your order and enjoy one of the most authorial modern Italian meals in Asia. Perfect cooking methods, incredibly fresh seafood and a crescendo of flavours in the elegant dishes presented. Wu suggest some mouthwatering spaghettoni with cantabrico anchovies, butter, wild fennel and sourdough crumble, or the version with guanciale, egg yolk and white truffe. The exquisite Italian wine list flirts with the Singapore attitude of pouring mature wines, grand millesimes and a vivacious outlook, ranging from funky wines (very hard to find in Singapore) to super classic labels such as Valentini or Gaja.

GAMBERO ROSSO

12

MAY 2019

TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

Italian cuisine is seriously good in Singapore.

Seafood and meat-based restaurants face-off in a hyper-competitive setting, boasting dreamy Italian wine cellars and super fresh ingredients.

The wines poured are mature and particular: Singapore is a star of Italian fine drinking. Hold the pen: Braci, Buona Terra, Garibaldi…

GARIBALDI ITALIAN RESTAURANT & BAR

ALBA 1836

GATTOPARDO RISTORANTE DI MARE

28 Duxton Hill - Singapore 01-02 36 Purvis Street -

+65 6222 2048

Singapore - +65 68371468

www.alba1836.com

34 Tras Street - Singapore +65 6338 5498

www.garibaldi.com.sg

Average Price: $ 40

www.gattopardo.com.sg

Gusto italiano and a sense for

Average Price: $ 120

Average Price: € 90

A classic restaurant out of

beauty. Located in the Colonial

This cozy restaurant accommo-

time and a dreaming wine

Building at Duxton Hill, Alba

dates a total of 80 diners, and fea-

1836 displays large windows,

tures a two-story historical space

cellar. Garibaldi dipsplays and

mind-blowing cellars, design elements

where diners will be able to access

12,000 selected wines to uncork. Chef

and a passionate wine selection, Matteo

the upper floor through a beautiful Italian-

and winelover Roberto Galetti built up

Trabaldo Togna has put together a styl-

inspired spiral staircase, one of the key fo-

one of the deepest collections of wine

ish place with refined cuisine offer. Ideal

cal points of the restaurant. Sicilian born

in Asia. He has vintages of Barolo and

for sipping on a fine glass of wine, patrons

chef Lino Sauro delivers a number of sea-

Brunello never seen any more in Italy,

can choose from 40 wines by the glass,

food dishes that rotate during the seasons,

large formats and verticals of cult Euro-

such as great Franciacortas as well as sur-

blending mostly japanese fish and Sicilian

pean labels. This is one of the most temp-

prising Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico,

recipes. Rich flavors meet high quality raw

talizing and reserached wine colellections

plus big reds while nibbling on prosciutto

ingredients. We enjoyed the flavor and tex-

we’ve experience all over the world: Tre

San Daniele or a fried arancino. The wine

ture of the spiced octopus with leom po-

Bottiglie! Have a seat at the bar or at the

list had an incredible depth of vintages,

tato and roasted radish, and among signa-

restaurant and choose carefully. At the

be it Gaja, Biondi Santi or San Leonardo.

ture dishes, the Seafood Stew in Terracotta

same time, Roberto and chef displays

And in the last year Southern Italian wines

Pot, or even more the delightful capellini

one of the most solid cooking offers re-

have definetely improved. Plus a selec-

with sea urchin and bottarga sauce. In the

gional specialties. Among the classics, we

tion of rums and whiskeys the likes of

small yet charming courtyard, you can

enjoyed some pumkin stuffed casoncelli

Samaroli. At the same time the restaurant

grab some arancini or a tasty caponata, to

filled with taleggio and a proper veal co-

menu offers refined and colorful dishes.

mention a few. The wine list offers original

toletta alla milanese, fragrant and cooked

Our highlights? Go fo the beef tartare with

references, and meal endings are tantaliz-

just to the point. Plus, restaurant manager

fired capers, quali egg yolk or the classic

ing, with cannoli filled with ricotta paired

Antonio Valentini is a perfect host. Sassic-

spaghetti with clams and bottarga sauce.

with a glorious Marsala Superiore Riserva

aia friendly.

Surgiva Taste & Design Award 2019.

by De Bartoli. Oysters friendly.

about

1,500

labels

GAMBERO ROSSO

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MAY 2019

GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR

Vini d’Italia Event: Zurigo

Despite the fact that wine imports into Switzerland had a slight decrease in 2018 (in quantitative terms, but with a 4% increase in value), Italy's role in exporting to the small independent European nation remains in the spotlight. To win over the Swiss public are the Italian sparkling wines (in increasing demand) and the multitude of our native grape varieties which, combined with diverse and varied territories, constitute a true unicum in the world of Italian wine. It's therefore no coincidence that the success of the "Vini d’Italia" event organized by Gambero Rosso in Zurich was impressive. Inside the Kameha Grand Zurich (a modern

PIEDMONT WINE CONSORTIUM. UNITY IS (ALWAYS) STRENGTH Not even 10 years after its foundation (the Consortium was born in 2010) it can count on 225 members. All producers of wines with Denomination of Origin and with the aim of communicating and making the most of a heritage of vineyards, vines, different territories and above all people who work the land every day with passion and determination. "The Wines of Piedmont" is a beautiful reality that, thanks to the joining of large and small producers, emerging or already established on the market, over the years organizes more than twenty events including masterclasses, tastings and presentations to buyers and importers. On May 9 the Consortium was present in Zurich with 13 wineries, each with its own labels, but united by a common symbol.

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GAMBERO ROSSO WORLD TOUR

hotel on the outskirts of the city, with an ad hoc exhibition space for an important wine tasting) more than 60 Italian wineries offered their products to more than 300 between buyers, importers, journalists and restaurateurs. The key focus was on our traditional vines, placing value to their specific areas and last but not least, highlighting their value for money, a very appreciated traint in these parts.

"We came here specifically to introduce Timorasso and the wines of the Tortona hills. We are close to Switzerland–said Elisa Semino, from La Colombera, awarded with the Tre Bicchieri recognition in the 2019 Guide–so the market is just

around the corner and they quickly have the chance to come to us.

They are very curious about our specificities: there are many importers here, but only a few know Timorasso, our star vine. For now we are present only in some wine bars but we are confident that with this event we will find the right contacts to be imported regularly.”

It is in fact essential for the Swiss wine business to attend events like this one. Gambero Rosso (for the eighth time in Zurich to present the best Italian wineries) this time in collaboration with Vinum, the largest and most important wine publisher in Switzerland.

As mentioned, Southern Italy

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was equally present. "Etna wine is known in Switzerland, strong of the success of recent years. We are not present in the Swiss market but we are very interested in the HoReCa sector and, given the level of interest, we think there is a lot of space for Etna wines.” According to Benedetta Piccini who, with her family, owns vineyards and cellars in Tuscany, but also in the Vulture and in Sicily with the Torre Mora company. "There is curiosity for our wines made from grapes grown on volcanic soil, the result of typical varieties born thanks to a unique microclimate". So much satisfaction for the 60 companies present at the event.

SINGAPORECHINA. THE TWO FACES OF THE ASIAN MARKET On the one hand, Singapore, the small Switzerland of the East, on the other, China, the Asian giant.

Two distant economies and two different ways of understanding wine.

Gambero Rosso returns to Asia, with the new Tre Bicchieri 2019 vs. 2020 format

words by Lorenzo Ruggeri and Marco Sabellico

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INGAPORE, THE DESIRE FOR ITALIAN WINE GROWS Singapore is a must-see in Gambero Rosso’s rich calendar of international events: it’s the thermometer of Italian wine in Asia. And it is also the country with one of the highest spending powers, so much so as to be called Little Switzerland of Asia.

The Top Italian Wines Roadshow has landed for the eighth time in the city, backed by a solid group of 60 historic wineries and a wealth of wines, over 200, which portray a virtually inexhaustible heritage of native varieties and territories, still little known in these parts. The event was hosted on May 6th, once again in the Chijmes complex, inside a deconsecrated church in the heart of the city. The 4 seminars conducted by yours truly were fully booked, a long journey from the Alps to the valleys of the Trapani area, with an ad hoc moment to illustrate numbers and cellars of the great international Prosecco Doc phenomenon. Many requests for explanations and comparisons with French wines and territories.

“Here there is an incredible hunger for knowledge and interest in Italy, they want to know more, the masterclasses on Italian wine are always booked solid because there is still little information on Italy” says Jessica Tan, from Singapoured, great promoter of Italian wine in the city. “The market is still very much oriented towards France,” she continues, “and also for Italy, linked to the brand and the so-called ABBC (Amarone, Brunello, Barolo, Chianti). It’s time to go further and the gonative trend will come strong”.

The concept is strengthened by Alan Serrecchia, sales manager of Ferrari Food + Wine: “We feel a little left alone

in our promotional work by the Italian Government. Neither the Embassy, nor the Chamber of Commerce support us contrary to what happens in France.

A place which, when it moves, invests a great deal. We need more events and seminars”.

Over 800 participants at the event, excellent impressions came from the wines of Southern Italy, in particular Puglia and Sicily: “The price of these wines is really ridiculous considering the quality in the glass”, was one of the recurring comments of the importers. Consider that in these parts, the average price paid for Italian wine is among the highest in the world: 8 euros per liter.

Finally, some concerns are related to neighboring Indonesia. “In Singa-

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pore it’s a good time, but we are a little worried about Indonesia, because since the EU decided to reduce the amount of palm oil, the local government has blocked, since April 1, the import of European wines and spirits. We hope we can find a solution soon,” says Francesco Paganelli, export manager of the Cevico group NUMBERS. SINGAPORE REPRESENTS A GROWING NICHE The Singapore market still represents a niche in the world of Made in Italy wine exports, but one that certainly needs overseeing. The quantities of wine shipped from Italy to this country in 2018 amounted to 2 million liters, compared to 1.8 of the previous year, the increase is 11%. Consid-

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THE BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANST IN SINGAPORE The Singapore restaurant scene is competitive and dynamic to say the least: 3,000 openings every year. As a consequence, almost 2,000 closures. The best Italian restaurants in the city were awarded at the opening of the event. The Surgiva Taste & Design Award goes to Alba 1836, a refined wine bar and restaurant housed in a colonial palace with spectacular exposed cellars, refined cuisine and one of the most varied wine lists in the city: “We are greatly expanding central and southern Italy”, emphasized manager Norwati Basri. Tre Bottiglie recognition for the best wine list in the city, and among the deepest in the world, goes to Garibaldi, a historic restaurant and bar opened by Roberto Galetti in 2003: 1,600 labels and 12,000 bottles dating back as far as 1937, with mind-boggling verticals and 20 great wines by the glass. “Here I learned to work on the millesimes, to bring value to the vintage. Lately the average expenditure has been lowered, but for example, the other day I sold 24,000 euro worth of wine to a table”, commented restaurant manager Antonio Valentini. Standing out among the new openings, Amò is a bistro and pizzeria, winning Due Spicchi as the best pizza in town. “The most popular pizza? Surely the truffle-topped one, we have sold more than 6,000 in a year and a half since the opening,” added manager Jody Adler.

ering the values, according to ISTAT data on foreign trade, Singapore’s expenditure on Italian wine went from €14.1 million in 2017 to €16.4 million in 2018, equal to a sharp rise of 16.3%. The average price per liter has thus benefited, reaching 8 euros.

The positive trend for Italian wine was repeated in January 2019, with export values that, according to the first partial data released by Istat, went from 0.98 million euro to 1.1 million, against quantities which increased from 138,000 to 157,000 liters.

IN BEIJING THE NEW FORMAT TRE BICCHIERI 2019 VS 2020 Another day, another stage and another format. On May 8th at the

In the restaurants section, Due Forchette were awarded to the seafood restaurant Gattopardo, directed by the talented Sicilian chef Lino Sauro, while two other restaurants are awarded with Tre Forchette recognition: Buona Terra, of Lombard chef Denis Lucchi and expert sommelier Gabriele Rizzardi, who emphasizes that mid-range wines are suffering the most at this time, with a deep gap between the entry level and the higher end; equally, maximum recognition also for Braci, one of the five restaurants opened

by Beppe de Vito, entrusted to the very young Mirko Febbrile, who at only 28 is managing an innovative concept that focuses strongly on Josper oven-cooking and small grills, including Japanese influences and a strong Italian character.

Four Seasons Hotel in Beijing, Gambero Rosso presented its new format Tre Bicchieri 2019 Vs 2020, featuring the best Italian wines reviewed

by Vini d’Italia in comparison with the new vintages, which the wineries have tasted in absolute preview.

The Guida dei Vini guide was the great protagonist of the event. Published by Custom Press, the publishing house of the Chinese Customs Office, the 2019 edition (the ninth edition translated into Chinese) was presented to a large audience of enthusiasts, journalists and sector operators. “Relations between our two countries are growing, exchanges are intensifying” said Sen Liu in the presentation ceremony, representing the publisher Custom Press “the

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wine and the Italian lifestyle increasingly fascinate the Chinese consumer.

“Vini d’Italia” is an invaluable knowledge tool, and we are pleased to be able to distribute it throughout the country to contribute to the success of Italian wine. A success that, numbers in hand, grows year after year”.

NUMBERS. IN CHINA ITALY DOES BETTER THAN ITS COMPETITORS Let’s take a look at the market numbers. Wine is–in terms of value–the leading sector of Italian food exports in China, with a share of about a quarter of the total. In fact, out of more than 560million euro of food exports in China, our bottles represent around 150million euro. 

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 Moreover, in 2018 Italy was the

European country with the lowest erosion of this export, since, based on Eurostat data expressed in euro, it only lost 2.4% against –20.3% in France and the –18.8% of Spain. Indeed, according to Chinese Customs surveys (China Customs) calculated in dollars, Italian wine exports show a +4.61% against a –12.64% in Spain and –3.12% in France. And although there has been a slowdown in demand at the end of 2018 and at the beginning of the new year (the Chinese economy has experienced a general slowdown), the prospects are encouraging. “In recent years we have recovered important positions on the market, but above all we are inserting quality Italian wines in the prestigious segment of this rapidly evolving market” commented Enrico Berti, Secretary of the Italian Embassy in Beijing “The Chinese market is still dominated by the French, while we Italians see an important delay in promotion”.

“Chile and Australia enjoy the advantages of bilateral treaties guaranteeing zero taxation, but the recent contacts between our two countries, and the strategies of the Belt and Road Initiative–the” new Silk Road “–are the prelude to a significant increase in exchanges between Italy and China”, echoed Amedeo Scarpa, director of ICE in Beijing and coordinator of the ICE network in China. “We are the European country that has grown the most in turnover in the food industry over the past three years” he continued “and this was thanks to a promotion policy and market entry of younger generations, millennials and generation Z, who have a cosmoplitan education, great curiosity and the desire to explore the fascinating diversity of the world of Italian wine”.

PROSECCO DOC ALSO IN TOUR WITH GAMBERO ROSSO The Prosecco Doc Consortium was the guest of honor in Singapore and Beijing, with a stand that was literally stormed by participants during the event.

Marco Sabellico and Tanja Barattin, head of international marketing at the Consortium, held a masterclass in both cities on the Italian denomination and territory, which were both sold out. “China is a really promising market, one on which we are betting,” said Barattin, “Prosecco in its various forms marries beautifully with Chinese cuisine, its fragrant and light nature meets the taste of young people who don’t like strong and distilled beverages at the table unlike their parents who did. We have great prospects on this market. We only need to be constant in presence and promotion”. While in Singapore, among pairings what most intrigued the public was marriage with pizza: margherita and Prosecco, an calling business card to penetrate even the less established markets.

A BILINGUAL DICTIONARY PRESENTED IN CHINA The success of Vini d’Italia – supported by the numerous events that Gambero Rosso organizes each year in China together with the best Italian producers – is an important driver of this growth. “Italian wine is cool and sophisticated” says Ivy Choi from the Luxury Times “it tells us about the beauty of Italy, an increasingly important tourist destination for the Chinese public”. “It’s part of that heritage of art, culture and beauty that make the Italian lifestyle, like fashion, innovation and sustainable development” echoes Susan Shi,

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financial operator who is divided between London and Beijing “an irresistible mix, in short”. Last but not least, during the event a Bilingual Dictionary of Italian-Chinese oenological terms was presented, the result of two years of work by a team of linguists and sinologists from the Confucius Institute and the University of Milan, in which Gambero Rosso also contributed. A very important tool for the whole sector. Now, the next appointment in China will be in autumn, to celebrate ten years of Gambero Rosso presence in the lands of the Celestial Empire. 

DICTIONARY OF ITALIAN WINES AND GRAPES

What’s “Barolo” in Mandarin? 巴罗洛!

The newest Gambero Rosso dictionary Now ther’s a new tool to walk the Silk Road: a bilingual (Italian-Chinese) Dictionary of Italian wines and grapes, born from the collaboration between Gambero Rosso and the Confucius Institute at the University of Milan.

Presented at the last Vinitaly festival, the dictionary – available both on paper and as an app –– contains about 1,200 items, divided into 4 sections: grapes, IGTs, DOCs and DOCGs. Each entry is defined in Italian thanks to careful consultation of wine texts and specifications; the translation work, thanks to the use of authoritative Chinese sources and an original work of standardization, has established the most suitable terms for identifying a wine or a grape variety. A painstaking job that aims to provide an indispensable tool for the culture and inclusion of Italian wine in the Chinese market. As explained by the president of Gambero Rosso Paolo Cuccia: «The Dictionary of Italian wines and vines constitutes an extremely impor-

tant starting point to fill linguistic gaps and to bring value to production niches and the boundless Italian winegrowing scenario in the Chinese market».

The director of the Confucius Institute, Alessandra Lavagnino, echoes this: «We finally have the Italian definitions of vines, DOCG, DOC and IGT, with a correct and standardized Chinese translation. In this way, Italian wine will find a better way to reach the hearts of the Chinese».

But it doesn’t end there. From June, in fact, again from the collaboration between Gambero Rosso and the Confucius Institute, the specialization course will begin for the figure of “Export Manager of Italian wine in China”, whose goal is training professionals able to manage the export processes and internationalization of Italian wine in the Chinese market.

巴罗洛

Barolo

Vernaccia

维纳西亚

切萨内赛

Cesanese

泽比波

Zibibbo

Malvasia Nera

黑玛尔维萨

 288 pages - euro 14,90 – available on gamberorosso.it

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SINGAPORE

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PECHINO

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TRADE SHOWS NOW FOCUS ON BUSINESS CAPITALS. VINEXPO SETS THE COURSE FOR PARIS Great revolutions for the Bordeaux fair, which for the next edition seeks a collaboration with tastings en primeur.

And the new event is announced: Vinexpo Paris. Here is an interview with the commercial director Vanhalst and the opinion of the Italian producers. Three events in four days for Gambero Rosso

words by Lorenzo Ruggeri and Marco Sabellico

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ost of food for thought stimulated by the 20th edition of Vinexpo Bordeaux, closed after 4 days of tastings along the banks of the Gironde. Thoughts on the meaning of fairs, on that feeling of wine-growing inferiority towards France that we still see as widespread, on the very fast evolution of a world, that of wine, which is changing at twice the speed of other sectors. Focus is on marketing, sales channels, reference markets and related promotional activities. Bordeaux, according to tradition, closes the season of the great international events, which began in November with the Hong Kong Wine & Spirits, which got underway with the question and answer of the ProWein in Dusseldorf and the Vinitaly in Verona.

The great international fairs try to keep pace with a very rapid evolution, with a multiplication of events and meetings all over the world, with many wine producers who spend much more time around the most important markets than in the cellar, telling in first person wines and company moods. By the same token, how do large trade shows change? First of all emphasizing the international vocation to intercept the widest possible slice of the market beyond the location of the event. In this sense, ProWein, which started this process from the onset, has an advantage, but Vinitaly has also made significant progress in recent years, driven by an increasingly strong competition. Hand in hand, there is a lot of work on the effectiveness of services and transfers with the major world markets, in this light the choice of Vinexpo to move the event to Paris from next year should also be considered. A departure from the great centers of world wine moving to the business capitals, a choice that immediately brings to mind the internal dialectics between Verona and Mi-

lan. But let’s go back to the last edition of Vinexpo which saw a smaller presence of producers and visitors than in past events. Between tastings of Margaux and Provençal rosés, we want to collect a series of testimonies. “We have worked well. We made few but on-point, high level encounters, from Wine Spectator to the most important importers in China and the United States. And then there are the times to talk and get to the bottom with these rhythms”, Riccardo Pasqua tells us.

Ettore Nicoletto’s comment is more severe “In 2015 I’d notices creaking, confirmed in 2017 and also in this edition.

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Like at ProWein, we moved together as Italia del Vino which is 10 years old this year. We are doing a substitute role for local institutions, we want to do business all together in order to have a shock wave capable of penetrating the big markets where it’s hard for them to do the work”.

Among the liveliest sections of the fair was Wow, World of Organic Wines, where turnout was clearly higher than average, confirming a very solid interest in something that can no longer be considered a niche. The seminars and debates organized in the lounges are very high-level and participatory, including the conference on online sales

VINEXPO

channels, with the presence of the CEO of Vivino, Alibaba, Tannico and Le Petit Ballon. We will return to the content of this conference because the analyzes and considerations deserve an in-depth study.

DIRECTOR’S POINT OF VIEW. INTERVIEW TO MATHIEU VANHALST - VINEXPO’S SALES DIRECTOR Why Paris? “Paris is the ideal platform for an event that aims to be even more global. The first edition will be in February 10 to 12. Compared to Bordeaux, we want an even more international outlook, both

from the standpoint of exhibitors and visitors, we want to showcase the diversity of wine production even more: we will invest a lot in US visitors, China and Europe which remains the largest market”.

What’s the biggest news? “It will be a wine show but there will be a special corner on spirits called The Spirits, a unique concept that will make people talk, we’re investing in it quite a lot”. All eyes are on the Eiffel tower, but what will happen to Vinexpo Bordeaux? “Well, we love Bordeaux, it represents our roots, and I confirm that we will have the event in 2021 here in Bordeaux but with another format and another timing. We are

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studying synergies with the Bordeaux En primeur tastings to bring buyers from all over the world. We need to discuss with Italian, Spanish and French producers to see what they expect, what they need”.

The last point on the just-closed edition and the partnership with the Gambero Rosso that has been going on since 2015, in France and Asia. “People have been able to do good business, the quality of visitors is very high and there are times and ways to put meetings to good use. We are very happy with the collaboration with Gambero Rosso: Italy is the first world producer, France the second. We are not competitors, we can 

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 do so much together, we have many

cultural similarities, wines are complementary and combine very well together in the name of quality”.

THE GAMBERO ROSSO EVENTS There are three appointments organized at the fair, with a massive and purely global visitor presence. The first day was a seminar on the special prizes of the Italian wine guide, conducted by Lorenzo Ruggeri and Marco Sabellico, staged with over 70 journalists and importers. Among the talks also one

by Mattia Vezzola: “Rosé is the antidote to banality. Crucial on the one hand is attention in the cellar and technology, on the other rosé manages to fully express the varieties, digs out the potential of the territory. My idea of rosé is of a wine capable of traveling through time”.

“I was very surprised by the Cannonau

by Antonella Corda (Emerging Winery for Wines of Italy 2019), all the charm of a great Mediterranean wine that feels the sea,” added Mattia. The second day was dedicated to the great Italian rosé wines, with an ad hoc masterclass that involved 13 rosé wines from native vines, from the gentle schiava to bombino nero, from negroamaro to nerello mascalese. “I was really surprised by the quality of these wines, there is no gap with the French rosé at all. Among all, I appreciated the Cerasuolo Amorino

by Podere Castorani, a wine of extraordinary complexity”, commented Swami Iyer, an Indian buyer who works mainly in the mid-west. Among the other participants of the seminar also Paolo Basso, Best Sommelier in the world in 2013: “I was enchanted by the

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Canaiolo rosé of Montenidoli, a wine that has a lot of character and can pair with everything”. There were many faces in the auditorium for a category of wines that deserves to be fully appreciated without continuous external comparisons, but believing in the potential and diversity of our vines and territories. Finally, on Wednesday, May 15, the Tre Biccheri grand tasting was held with nearly 40 participating wineries and 938 visitors at the end of the day, with a high percentage of Asian visitors. “In just one trade show day we managed to have the right contacts, optimizing time and travel,” says Dona Coppi. In closing, the date of the next Tre Bicchieri was set in France, the collaboration with Vinexpo is renewed: the appointment is for February 11th in Paris. 

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VINEXPO

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GAMBERO ROSSO X RIDOLFI

The love for Montalcino And the new youth of Ridolfi

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Località Mercatali, Montalcino: this is where Ridolfi is located. The estate, which previously belonged to the Florentine family whose name it bears with the coat of arms on the label, was bought in 2011 by the entrepreneur Giuseppe Valter Peretti, owner of the Rocchetto estate in Larciano in Chianti, about twenty kilometers south of Pistoia: «For a long time I was evaluating some wineries in the area that had been offered to me––Peretti explains––I chose this one because it was the right size, neither too big nor too small.

However, it lacked adequate facilities; for this reason I immediately started working on designing a new cellar, trying to expand the vineyard area a little». Giuseppe Peretti is head of one of the most important groups in the Italian 3

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leather tanning industry: the group that bears his name is based in the Valle del Chiampo district, in Veneto. How did you get to Ridolfi? «Wine is a passion I have been cultivating for a long time and Montalcino is a love that dates back to the 1970s. It’s not just a territory: it has now become a renowned brand worldwide. When I decided to diversify my business realities, it was only natural that I would choose this portion of Tuscany».

The company is located on the north side of Montalcino, the generally cooler one, at about 300 meters above sea level near the Strada del Brunello wine road: 35 hectares, of which 19 are vineyards, to which the 22 of the Rocchetto Estate are added, in the province of Pistoia, where the vine-

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1. The Tenuta Ridolfi, in the north side of Montalcino 2. Giuseppe Valter Peretti, proprietor since 2011 3. Oenologist Gianni Maccari 4. The estate’s Rosso and the two Brunello di Montalcino 5. The evocative view from the Enoteca Osticcio

THE WINERY IN NUMBERS

120.000 bottles 90% destined to the foreign market Montalcino 35 overall hectares 19 hectares planted in vines Tenuta Ronchetto, Larciano (PT) 22 hectares 5 hectares planted in vines 5

yard extends for five hectares and the olive grove for eleven.

The grapes are then transformed by the skilled hands of Gianni Maccari, in the company since 2014 after a long experience in Poggio di Sotto: «Our style is traditional, to exalt the characteristics of the grapes we bring to the cellar––says the oenologist––always very healthy grapes that come from vineyards cultivated with particular attention to the environment: copper and sulfur for treatments, sexual confusion against pests, sowing and green manure between the rows». The range of wines starts from Rosso di Montalcino: «For us this is a very important wine, because it represents the caling card for Brunello; so, after eight months of medium-sized oak, we choose the best barrel, the one that proves to be the most ready for the type». Then we pass to Brunello, a traditional technique––vinification in steel with long maceration on the skins, oak barrels of 25 to 35 hectoliters for 36 month––and in the stretch. Donna Rebecca is more modern, Brunello looking to Burgundy: maceration and fermentation in new, un-roasted barriques, then matured in barriques for 28 months. Finally the Mercatale, for now a selection from the barrel, but it’s the label that from the 2015 vintage will be destined to the Riserva.

Enoteca Osticcio Terrace-laboratory in Montalcino Those who know the area know that the Ristorante Enoteca Osticcio takes its name from the hill on which it’s located and is housed inside a building that overlooks the valley and the surrounding hills, offering a breathtaking view of the territory of Montalcino. From 2017 the business, managed for 25 years by Tullio Scrivani, was taken over by Giuseppe Valter Peretti: what was a traditional tavern has turned into a top restaurant. «We changed the idea of the restaurant: from a typical tavern to a place that offers gourmet cuisine with the goal of creating a meeting place for visitors in search of a quality welcome». At the helm in the kitchen is young Ronald Bukri, strong in top-cuisine experience in Italy (Lopriore, Corelli, Giacomello) and abroad (London, Spain, Thailand), he proposes a highly technical and crative cuisine, but without excess.

 Ridolfi – località Mercatali, 1 – Montalcino (SI) – 05771698333 – ridolfimontalcino.it

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SOMMELIER 2.0 THE BOYS AND GIRLS WHO CHANGED THE PROFESSION

What is a sommelier? How old is he/she?

Is it the same rigid character as a few decades ago? And what importance does the somm have in the restaurant dining room? Only a figure for high-end restaurants? Or also for pizzerias?

The men and women of wine have changed their face. With teachers, professionals and critics, we have taken stock of the best young sommeliers

words by Francesca Ciancio – illustrations by Gianluca Biscalchin

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ell dressed but not stiff; smiling but sparingly; careful but not overly diligent; elegant yet not regal gestures.

This could be a first snapshot of the ideal sommelier. The list of qualities gets longer if all the items necessary to make this figure a sort of ideal professional begin to appear. English language must be spoken well, French is the language of wine, terrific memory is needed to know all the wineries by memory, a unsoppable curiosity and strong liver to face every type of wine label, study, experience, initiative. And also a certain amount of courage, if wanting to make a difference. In short, much more than the “saumalier” which in 16th century French meant “driver of work animals” and only later became “cantiniere” (cellar manager).

We’re talking of a person who must also know psychology in order to reassure the client.

Reassure and make him a loyal customer, too. Because the sommelier certainly not just doing it for charity.

BACKGROUND OF YOUNGER SOMMS The younger ones - under 35 we selected were intercepted and analyzed to stay within the millennial bracket - seem to have the ideal background, made of study, practice, passion, experiences abroad, appropriate use of social media to make this profession more appealing compared to the past.

Confusing a sommeleier with a wine taster is reductive. If in common they have the technical and tasting knowledge, the sommelier must know how to present the wine and pair it to dishes. The somm becomes the wine’s communicator and not only in restaurants, but also in wine bars, fine

delis, large, small and very small distribution channels. The talking point is only the final stage of a journey that begins with the selection of products, with the drafting and updating of a wine list and with the management of the cellar. With an eye on the wallet and with the heart all set for the customers.

We feel Alessandro Pipero, owner of the namesake Roman restaurant and one of the founders of Noi di Sala, the association that since 2012 has been committed to the enhancement of the identity of the service in restaurants, is correct when he says that being a sommelier is a lifestyle.

“Because even when you’re on vacation, you choose places to eat based on the welcome you hope to receive, observe, control, learn”. In his restaurant while guests read the menu and choose their order, a flûte of Champagne arrives and in the by the glass wine list

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SOMMELIER 2.0. THE BOYS AND GIRLS WHO CHANGED THE PROFESSION

THE ILLUSTRATOR’S TRAIT They are the ones managing the Dionysian part of great restaurants, bistros, social tables and endless useless postmeal discussions. I was struck by the explosion of diversity in the way of serving, of appearing, of being.

I tried to draw the multiple souls of this new colourful and tribe of heterodoxy.

– Gianluca Biscalchin

Well dressed, but not stiff; elegant, but not regal; smiling, but just enough.

This is the new group of young sommeliers who are rewriting the rules of a profession that was no longer in step with the times shine names the likes of Monfortino, Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Armand Rousseau. «I offer this possibility» continues the Roman restaurateur «it’s our welcome to those who are expressing a wish. We, on the other hand, take on the economic risk of having big frozen costs».

Courage, in fact, is another appreciable gift in this professional field. If competition grows, audacity in proposing also increases.

Wine lists as comfort zones are becoming increasingly rare. And in this the sommelier has an advantage: the wine enthusiast hardly has a fetish bottle. The more one drinks, the more one knows, and thus the more one thirsts for new experiences. The ideal client? A symbolic sponge that the sommelier must be good at dipping in as many bottles. The initial ones usually, with knowledge of the facts, are tasted during professional courses. 

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I like you, have the best job in the world Reading this article and the succession of stories of these young people scattered around Italy and the world gives me a sense of great nostalgia. My professional history began many years ago, at university, right from the dining room and grew from the relationship with the client. From the neighborhood trattoria to the starred studded restaurnats I worked at all of them: I took courses on courses, study trips with tip money painstakingly collected among the tables of the locals I was working at, I uncorked many important bottles and shared them with friends who had the same passion and were on the same path. Many of the stories that follow resemble mine. Basically, you must have an extraordinary passion for the world of wine and for oenology, but above all you must love the relationship with the guests. This is the fundamental point.

This is what makes the difference between a trained professional and a champion like these young people who are changing the face of the profession. What matters is providing an emotion to those who sit at the restaurant table or at the counter of your wine bar.

Telling stories through a glass of wine. The last thing a customer wants is a lesson. Often, and I understood this at my own expense, they know more about you in certain areas and about certain wines. The customer wants to be amazed, amused, wants to discover something new. To do all this with class, whatever culture is learned in the courses is not enough. You need empathy, you need to have a clinical eye to understand on the fly who you have in front of you, and what is expected of you. Even if the customer has tastes that are completely different from yours, what matters is to make him/her happy for an hour or two. These are qualities that are refined with experience, and that must be expressed without dogmatism, without total adhesion to schools of thought, without ideological barriers (as it sometimes happens). There is so much good to taste in the world, including cocktails, tea and sake... Those who understand it have no limits. Fortunately we Italians have much in this sense: the success of these youngsters proves it.

— Marco Sabellico

MAY 2019

STORIES

TRAINING AND MARKETING The educational associations are many and equal amount of diplomas are awarded.

However, it’s important to note that these have no official validity. Ais, Fisar, Fis and Aspi - to mention the most renowned acronyms - count about 60,000 graduates in Italy: an army! «Most of them, however, choose the sommelier course as an alternative to yoga». Andrea Gori is not enchanted by the many tastevins. The Florence native was among the first to bring the trade on the web and is the owner of the historic trattoria Da Burde in Florence. «The purpose of the courses in my opinion is tointroduce the wine and then have you spend on wine purchases. The ideal students are doctors, lawyers, notaries, people who have a hedonistic view of this world, not a professional one. There is no study-work alternating period and restaurateurs very rarely appeal to these associations to find a suitable sommelier figure. Personally, after the AIS course I started photographing every label I tasted and adding a few notes to each photo, I›ve been doing this for 15 years. In the restaurant I have young men who are not sommeliers but who sell thousands of euros worth of wine. In a professional program I would also include retail and marketing techniques».

within the AIS association. Furthermore his courses in wine didactics won over an audience of mostly curious and passionate wine lovers. «In the sommelier world» explains the wine critic «the biggest difficulty is managing assets. The cellar can be considered like a hand grenade, because it can make a fortune or ruin a restaurant, for this it’s essential to have a solid economic-business background. Fifty percent of the dissertations I read as graduate commissioner at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo are dedicated to marketing. Whether you end up in a restaurant or not, you need to build entrepreneurial skills». 

SOMMELLERIE AN ECONOMY ISSUE Armando Castagno is more a literate than a man of numbers, yet his vision is not so far from Gori’s: «The first criticism I have is taxonomic: courses for sommeliers do not form sommeliers.

I would talk more about winemaking, rather than preparation and of serving wine.»

He has been involved in professional training at least since 2007

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STORIES

BEST TO LEARN IN THE FIELD? The proposal for a sort of “employment center for sommeliers” is not folly. The current president of Fisar Luigi Terzago points precisely to this with his mandate and before him Giuseppe Vaccarini, as president of Aspi, presented a bill in 2006 (see box).

For the moment, however, for every successful sommelier there are many considered as simple waiters, both in regards to tasks and for remuneration. «But things are changing.» This confidence is Beppe Palmieri’s, the man in charge of wine (and not only) for Massimo Bottura, the two forming a duo that has been working perfectly for twenty years.

«The dining room and the cellar are experiencing an incredible moment, also thanks to a public that’s increasingly more educated on the subject. I believe it’s the customers’ curiosity that’s also improving us. And it’s not merely a question in the fine dining sector. I note the same curious intelligence at Osteria Francescana, as I see at Franceschetta and at Panino» he explains, quoting the famous Modenese place owned by him and Massimo Bottura. And he adds: «Do you know how many have asked me to open a training school for sommeliers? I have always refused and my answer is always that the real training is done among tables, and a period of three to six months can already be an excellent training ground». Another dining room manager useful in explaining how this profession is evolving is Fabiana Gargioli, almost forty years old and for more than ten years at the helm of the wine cellar at Armando al Pantheon restaurant in Rome.

The place is her home and if necessary she does everything, serving tables or shlving wine alike: «the sommelier must talk to the kitchen staff, he/she must know dishes and ingredients in order to sell a bottle in the best way. If the customer trusts you, he does not pay attention to the price of the label». Her teacher was uncle Fabrizio, but Fabiana underlines the importance of continuous training: «there is not one day when I do not taste something new and at least once a month I participate in an important tasting».

THE SOMMELIER PROFESSION ACCORDING TO EXPERTS AND DOCENTS «A sommelier is a wine and restaurant or other distribution professional who recommends and serves beverages at a professional level [...] The sommelier figure contributes to the purchase of wines and other beverages depending on the client and the food offer in his place of work. The sommelier actively participates in the management of stocking the cellar, and in the composition and preparation of the wine list». This is what’s reported in the resolution of Oiv-International Organization of Vine and Wine, which defines the role of the sommelier figure internationally. In Italy, the profession is classified as a third level in the national collective agreement, but there is neither a special guild nor a qualification for the profession, obtained through a state examination. It’s

therefore all entrusted to private associations (among the most important acronyms being Ais, Fis, Aspi, Fisa) that arrange training, examinations and diploma.

A few months ago, however, the new president of Fisar, Luigi Terzago, proposed to review the classification of this professional figure, by way of legal recognition and added dialogue with other trade associations: «My mission—he stated—is recognition of the sommelier profession in Italy». In actual fact, it’s not the first time that this has been attempted. Already back in 2006, a proposition (‘discipline of the sommelier profession’) had been presented in Parliament, under the impetus of the Aspi President Giuseppe Vaccarini. The goal was to establish provincial sommelier registers and introduce a

YOUNG SOMMS? TOO ENTHUSIASTIC Giorgio Fogliani is a man of the bar counter, enlightened writer in the world of wine writing, but also co-owner of the Vino di Milano wine shop in Milan. He talks about it and pours it, taking his job seriously. His restaurant is in the Porta Romana area, which in terms of wine is the most avant-garde place as far as proposals: «Yet when I stand behind the counter I realize that 80% of the talks between us employees are blatantly denied by the dialectic of customers. What seems like old stuff to us is avant-garde for them. In short, there is no real dialogue between the parties». How do you see the outlook of young people?, we asked him bringing it back to the topic of our feature: «Among the young sommeliers there is so much enthusiasm, sometimes it’s excessive. I note a somewhat confusing and sectorial technical preparation; think of

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qualifying examination. But then nothing was made of this. Is now the right time to pursue this again? «In other countries, like in Switzerland—explained Vaccarini—the sommelier has been under tutelage for a long time and the training was entrusted to state-regulated hotel management schools. It seems absurd to us that we, as a country of wine and tourism, have not yet succeeded in achieving this result».

If Aspi and Fisar seem, therefore, to converge in this project, Antonello Maietta, President of Ais, is not prove too enthusiastic: «The profession of the sommelier is framed in the national collective agreement. But when talking about a communication sommelier (a somewhat hybrid professional category), this is included in the Ateco codes of the Ministry

of Finance (Revenue Agency) as a freelance activity». In regards to the recognition of a special register, he continued: “it’s best not to be too candid, considering that those already existing are at risk». This same position is also supported by Franco Maria Ricci of the Italian Sommelier Foundation, which in general does not have much confidence in professional bodies and, rather, focuses attention on another issue: the introduction of wine into a schooling academic training course.

Regulation yes, regulation no, there is, however, another point on which all associations c o n v e rg e : sommellerie

the orthodoxy of natural wine lists, it’s almost a religion! The work in the dining room was once more rigid but also more competent. Today I have the feeling that all this enthusiasm is vomited onto the customer, without offering real informational elements. In wine bars it’s even worse because it’s difficult to invest in qualified personnel». 

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must become a fast track for the professional world. Measures put in place in these last months go in this direction: from the creation of a Fisar database, to bring together supply and demand; and the possibility of carrying out internships within businesses, conceived by AIS; as well as a new concept of “contemporary sommelier “. This is a term introduced by Aspi, which widens the circle of knowledge from wine to all beverages, which accompany the meal and which respond to an increasingly cosmopolitan audience.

Is this really the profession of the future?

– Loredana Sottile

STORIES

FOCUSING ON THE CUSTOMER Respect for the customer is at the centre also for Fabrizio Pagliardi, who leads three important restaurants in Rome, such as Remigio, Barrique and Barnaba. Precisely for this last creature he chose a decidedly “natural” style for the wines. «But I›m not chasing fads. I swear on the quality of my selection. I traveled a lot before opening Barnaba, I invested a lot in time and money, I sacrificed my vacation time. Eighty percent of the wine I sell is my own import, which means that my team must know the proposed labels by heart. I worked on a sartorial training for them. And those who accepted it took the risk of this formula, growing with humility».

A career can be enhanced thanks to humility and tenacity. But it›s talent that actually makes the difference. Mauro Mattei is full of talent, after so many years working in the dining room and in the cellar at the Piazza Duomo restaurant in Alba where he chose the road of Wine specialist for the Ceretto family and for their Terroirs distribution. He deals with sommeliers, trains them and sells wine, in short, a promulgator with a large commercial proxy: “There are many restaurateurs I meet who ask me for names of talented colleagues. It means that there are not that many good sommeliers. The desire to sacrifice is often lacking and the restaurant world is sacrifice.

There’s difficulty in success and the rewards are low. Suffice it to say that in the closing periods even haute cuisine can fire staff, chef aside. You are not yet considered a key figure. On the other hand, “Mattei continues,” we Italians have an edge over the French sommellerie that remains stiff and old-school. We are good at research, we are more fun and, although attentive to form, we can give lightness to this figure”. Mattei has always been a fine scout, not only for bottles but also for people. Mirko Feroce at the restaurant Condividere in Turin (Lavazza group) owes him his role, but the masterstroke was the change of relay at Piazza Duomo with Vincenzo Donatiello,

NUMBERS AND ACRONYMS Altogether the sommeliers in Italy are about 80 thousand, however—there not being a register—it’s necessary to follow the numbers of the single associations.

Fondazione italiana sommelier - The Italian Sommelier Foundation wants to spread wine culture through various courses held at the national headquarters in Rome and in territorial delegations. Its history is intertwined with that of the AIS Italian Sommelier Association of Rome, whose first training course dates back to 1953 (the separation from AIS happened in 2013). Its founder is publisher Franco Maria Ricci. There are about 20,000 members, nationally.

Ais - Italian Sommelier Association was founded in 1965 in Milan. Today, there are 40,000 members in Italy. In June 2018, Antonello Maietta earned his third consecutive term as president.

Fisar - Italian Sommelier Federation of hoteliers and restaurateurs has 12,000 members, divided into more than 60 territorial delegations throughout Italy. The head office is in San Giuliano Terme (Pisa). The president is Luigi Terzago.

Aspi - Association of Italian professional sommellerie is the only Italian member of the Association de la sommellerie internationale (Asi). In fact, it was born in 2007 after AIS broke relations with the ASI. The national headquarters is in Milan, but it has delegations throughout Italy. From its foundation, the President is Giuseppe Vaccarini, promoter of the first law proposal for professional recognition of the figure of the sommelier in Italy.

the sommelier, restaurant manager, restaurant manager everyone loves. Almost a paradigmatic and double figure: did you know that his twin brother Mauro Donatiello is a sommelier in the highly acclaimed Romagna restaurant DaGorini?

ARE NATURAL WINES BECOMING A THING OF THE PAST? Donatiello is the bomber of this team born between the end of the 80s and the middle of the 90s, whose minimum common denominator is pushing hard. Over the phone we explain the reason for the call, a feature article on the top 35 sommeliers under 35, but according to him the figure doesn’t reach twenty-five. «The good ones are free from the conditioning of wine guides and from the natural wine lists at all costs. The latter seems to be a trend

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SOMMELIER 2.0. THE BOYS AND GIRLS WHO CHANGED THE PROFESSION

that is still going strong, but among the sommeliers who count, or among those who dictate trends, this fashion is already a thing of the past». The point is not just to be talented, but to aspire to becoming the king of the guides, making a upward trajectory from the ground up, where the first step is working as a waiter: «but in Italy one is reluctant» stresses Donatiello «I always tell those that join internships with me that they need to be aimed at growth and the sommelier path allows it, both in terms of meetings and of economic satisfaction. My recipe is following these three points: STUDY, training on wine, territories and people to anticipate trends; GLASS, that is an incalculable number of glasses to taste and RESTAURANTS, sit at the most varied tables to taste, understand and bring home an experience».

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THE BOMBER SERIES: FROM DONATIELLO TO SINESI The stories of these youngsters, who have become men either in the dining room or the kitchen, are similar. Giovanni Sinesi is also from the mid-80s, working with Niko Romito at Reale, the restaurant that according to Italian Restaurants guide by Gambero Rosso is the best restaurant in Italy, and he believes in a project born in a peripheral Italy like Abruzzo in Castel di Sangro.

«In Barletta, where I was born, my parents had a restaurant. I served water and bread.

The hotel management school in Roccaraso allowed me to meet Romito in 2004. I have been with him for fifteen years because I believed in a philosophy that then later became his project. Today I could decide to work in a big city, but here I feel free to carry on some of my wishes, like making wine. In fact, a selection will come out called “Impressions by Gianni Sinesi”, I started with a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, maybe there will also be a bubbly. I chose the between being a super consultant and making wine».

The Romito ecosystem is only apparently decentralized. Sinesi›s commitment is as far reaching as Milan or Rome and in the meantime the performances must remain very high: «I admit that when the third Michelin star arrived I fell into a crisis. I spent a lot of time studying the wine lists of all the three-star restaurants. Then I realized that we had to pursue our own path, step by step. Even today the wine cellar has some shortcomings on the verticals, but when you are the purchasing manager you have to think about the money as if it were your own». He thinks that the new dining room scene needs more humility: «Social partners too» continues Sinesi «I see too many super labels and posted as trophies by colleagues. I would suggest a bit more humility». 

STORIES

AND WOMEN? Humble or not, the scene so far encountered here is undoubtedly male-slanted. A prevalence which is not random but which is the detail of a general situation. The world of wine is full of women, but when it comes to service in the dining room, the presence of women diminishes considerably.

Valentina Bertini is aware of this, biting the bullet far more than her many male colleagues and gave her all. Barely forty, she is working as the Langosteria group’s wine manager has for some months now. The place offers top quality fish dining with one of Italy’s finest Champagne lists and a corporate level turnover. «I never had issues with customers. Rather, it was the employers who always think that women are still a source of problems between family, children and poor ability to endure fatigue».

At the Langosteria she returns as manager, after a few years spent at the Terrazza Gallia restaurant of the namesake hotel in Milan: «I left the tables to train staff and take care of purchases for five venues. I will miss the service but I am proud of this result because I owe it to my hard head and the great passion I have for wine. Being

a sommelier can also mean being in the office to make sure that everything runs smoothly».

KEY WORDS? HUMILITY, COMMITMENT AND SACRIFICE To put it as Ennio Flaiano would have, “the situation is grave but not serious” regarding Italian sommellerie. Many recurring words like humility, commitment, sacrifice. «Undoubtedly, compared to the past, there is much talk of the dining room and the wine cellar, but is there a model to offer to those who want to take up the profession?» The question is raised by Alessandro Morichetti, wineblogger with Intravino, with a background in the restaurant world in the Marche region. The answer would have matched the sarcastic irony of Flaiano: «The associations that intend to promote the dining room culture and the virtues of competence, passion, modesty and spirit of service» continues Morichetti «then end up glorifying haughty, immodest, not very curious characters but 

There are many women in the wine world, but in the dining room the numbers are different.

More than customers, its the employers who discriminate, say the female sommeliers

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STORIES

THE YOUNG SOMMELIERS ABROAD SCENE Sales, positioning, interest: the image of Italian wine in the world has never been so bright. Making it so vital is a generation of Italian sommeliers increasingly alive in the great international dining scene. They bring fresh, new labels to wine lists: they amaze you with tastings and true invitations to travel. The approach changes, the language becomes more and more direct and less verbal, passionate, in order to lead customers by the hand. In our travels we collected curated lists to say the least, lso personal, usable; the filter being an Italian palate that came into contact with a global vision and new business models.

«Here sommeliers are very well regarded and recognized as valuable guides to the better understanding of what customers comprehend, know and choose. In Italy the figure is still associated with the person to disregard at the table because he/she would have made us spend as much as possible», explains Federico Dadone who, after the experience at Rigò, is at the center of the VyTA project that will open soon in London. Francesco Cosci, age 24, in charge of the very deep cellar of Les Climats restaurant, reinforces the concept: «Here we are considered stars... in England as in France this is a very precise and well-paid job». The sommelier has become an investment opportunity, the career prospects are high. «The profession raises the level of quality in the dining room and guarantees

highly skilled, ambitious (which in itself would not be a bad thing) far more attached to glory, public recognition and servility of the press than to the service of any guest. There are a number of modest and really valid somms, but they do not raise their voices and do not exaggerate». So one should start, or start over that is, right from here. From the sommelier intended as a figure in charge of customer service even before serving wine. 

an economic return (customer relations, increased sales, etc.): today it is more of a multitasking profession, consequence of a new way of approaching meals at the table», says Simone Sammuri, manager and sommelier at Francis in Hong Kong. And the places of work double: «We no longer speak only of wine, but also of tea, coffee, cocktails, beers and a thousand other things. It’s more difficult than before, but also much more stimulating. The sommelier in the future could merge many sectors, from finance to marketing and who knows what else», comments an enthusiastic Alessandro Cini, born in 1994, sommelier of Le George in Paris, landed there after the experience at Pinchiorri. And even in the most luxury Asian contexts, the approach changes. «Here too, fine dining is becoming increasingly accessible, perhaps even casual: the client wants to feel at ease and enjoy a good food and wine experience». So a simpler vocabulary, stories and anecdotes at the table now guide the curious customer, says Simone Macri, manager of Jaan restaurant in Singapore, and in the background the suspended ship of the Marina Bay Sands, beyond which is Indonesia. The most appreciated qualities of the Italians? Empathy, memory, innate sense of hospitality and, above all, a marked ability towards wine pairing with food, something that Italian education focuses on much more. This is what emerges from the many foreign

«Associations often favor haughty, immodest professionals who pay attention only to the press and personal image», is the accusation.

So the clue is starting over from here: the sommelier back at the service of the guest way before being employed in the service of wine

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SOMMELIER 2.0. THE BOYS AND GIRLS WHO CHANGED THE PROFESSION

managers we interviewed. In terms of choices, there’s an increasing number of small-to-medium producers, and Italian whites, especially from Campania, are on the rise.

The biggest phenomenon, globally is Etna. Foreign demand has driven up land prices on Europe’s highest volcano, valued more abroad than in Italy.

The attention to the natural world of the youngest sommeliers is also very strong, particularly in Copenhagen, San Francisco, Sydney and Paris; the female component however is still small. «We are still few, even if here in New York the number of women sommeliers is definitely growing. But customers are the most unaccustomed; it often happens that people give me the ticket for the coat check when they walk up to me in the dining room, mistaking me for a hostess or asking me to send the sommelier», closes Mariarosa Tartaglione, Head Sommelier of Ai Fiori, one of the most beautiful wine cellars in Manhattan.

– Lorenzo Ruggeri

THE 10 BEST YOUNG SOMMELIERS WORKING ABROAD LONDON

COPENHAGEN

Federico Dadone 32 years old – VyTA

Alessandro Perricone 31 years old – Relae, Mirabelle, Manfred, Baest

Londra Parigi San Francisco

New York

Copenaghen

LAUSANNE

Losanna Hong Kong

Davide Dargenio 31 years old – Berceau des Sens

HONG KONG

Singapore

SAN FRANCISCO

Simone Sammuri 35 years old – Francis

Davide Carron 35 years old – Acquerello

PARIS NEW YORK Mariarosa Tartaglione 31 years old – Marea Group

Alessandro Cini 24 years old – Le George Francesco Cosci 24 years old – Les Climats

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Sydney

SINGAPORE

SYDNEY

Simone Macri 35 years old – Jaan

Fabio Pallottini 33 years old – Mr. Wong

MAY 2019

STORIES

THE 35 BEST YOUNG SOMMELIERS IN ITALY ALBA

PRIOCCA

GARDONE RIVIERA

Vincenzo Donatiello – Piazza Duomo

Giampiero Cordero – Il Centro

Manuele Meneghini – Lido 84

TURIN Andrea Zoggia – Edit Mirko Feroce – Condividere

GENOA Yoel Abarbanel – Les Rouges

MILAN Ilario Perrot – Lume Alberto Piras – Il Posto di Aimo e Nadia Rocco Tomas Galasso – Enoteca Naturale Jacopo Corti – Iyo Simone Marelli – Giancarlo Morelli Carlo Maldotti – Spazio Niko Romito Luca Enzo Bertè – Berton Paolo Porfidio – Hotel Gallia Sebastien Ferrara – Enrico Bartolini Mudec Alex Bartoli – Cracco

IMOLA Francesco Cioria – San Domenico

MONTALCINO Alberto Ponziani – Osticcio

FLORENCE Walter Meccia – Il Palagio del Four Seasons, Firenze Davide D’Alterio – Gastronomia Galanti, Firenze

CASTELLAMARE DI STABIA

ROME

Emanuele Izzo – Piazzetta Milù

Luca Belleggia – Il Pagliaccio

MAIORI Bonaventura Ferrara – Faro di Capo d’Orso

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SOMMELIER 2.0. THE BOYS AND GIRLS WHO CHANGED THE PROFESSION

FLERES-PFLERSCH

PONTE DI PIAVE

Eros Teboni – Feuerstein Nature Family Resort

Cristian Maitan – Nuovo Ranch

Fleres / Pflersch

ROVIGO Francesca Penzo – La Taverna Rosolina

Milano

Gardone Riviera

Ponte di Piave

LORETO

Torino Priocca Alba

Ramona Ragaini – Andreina

Rovigo Genova Imola Firenze

GUARDIAGRELE Pascal Tinari – Villa Maiella Loreto

Montalcino

CASTEL DI SANGRO Gianni Sinesi – Reale

Guardiagrele

Roma

Castel di Sangro

TELESE TERME Trani

Alfredo Buonanno – Krèsios

Telese Terme Castellammare di Stabia

Maiori

Matera

Paestum

PAESTUM Tomas Torsiello – Osteria Arbustico

PALERMO Giulio Bruni – Tasca d’Almerita

TRANI

Palermo

Saverio Di Gennaro – Quintessenza

Catania

CATANIA Roberta Cozzetto – Sapio

MATERA Donato Addesso – Vitantonio Lombardo

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GAMBERO ROSSO X GRUPPO BLU HOTELS

The Mission of Blu Hotels pampering and satisfying guests 30 locations for an Italian vacation Over thirty venues, including resorts, hotels and villages, each with their own characteristics to meet every expectation. «We want to revive the charm of the Italian vacation of the past». Whether it’s the sea––with the beautiful villages in Salento and the seaside hotels of Versilia––or mountain (extraordinary structures in Trentino, Lombardy and Abruzzo), Blu Hotels is committed to making its guests happy: «We want to see them smile». And there really is something for everyone.

1

A success that has lasted for more than 25 years: Blu Hotels Group, since 1993 has staked everything on the care of services for guests and its professional staff. A contemporarystyle company, faithful to the most historic tradition of Italian tourism, which today ranks as the first Italian chain in 4 and 5-star resorts. Andrea Cartapatti, Food & Beverage Director of the Group, historically at the helm of large hotel companies both in Italy and abroad and for four years at Blu Hotels, the Group led by the CEO Nicola Risatti and the Managing Director Fabrizio Piantoni: «They––Andrea explains––represent the soul of the Group». From the outset, Blu

Hotels has pursued a policy of constant growth, trying to meet the needs of an increasingly attentive clientele.

«Loyalty is our mission», a goal achieved thanks to the great differentiation between the various structures.

Villages and hotels for all needs and attention to younger travellers

High attention is given to the kitchen, one of the most important experiences for a guest. «We want to promote local products and dishes: after all, Italian cuisine is made up of many small local cultures that make our tradition great», explains Andrea. Therefore the kitchen has agreements with local suppliers, niche productions, but also with quality supplies for the entire

Sea and Wellness, new openings After celebrating 25 years last year, now it’s time to consolidate: “Our shareholders are always in motion, we never stop”. Meanwhile, the new opening is ready in Sardinia, the Sandalia Boutique Hotel: “a 4-star hotel with a somewhat different format in the area of Arzachena, where we are already present with all-inclusive villages”. Not only the sea: after a long restyling, the historic Linta Hotel of Asiago is returning to shine, with the name of Linta Hotel Wellness & Spa, to emphasize the central role of the wellness and relaxation centre and spa.

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GAMBERO ROSSO X GRUPPO BLU HOTELS

1. Park Hotel Casimiro in San Felice del Benaco (BS) 2. The Food & Beverage Director of the Blu Hotels Group, Andrea Cartapatti 3. The wellness area of the Park Hotel Casimiro 4. Palazzo Arzaga in Calvagese della Riviera (BS)

Palazzo Arzaga, Golf & Spa on Lake Garda

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An ancient 15th century residence immersed in an estate of 144 hectares, just 5 kilometers from Lake Garda: welcome to Palazzo Arzaga, a historic building recently transformed into a 5-star Golf and Spa Resort, a space of unique charm, with classic interior design and wooden ceilings, original frescoes and antique furniture dominating the scene. The perfect place to enjoy a relaxing holiday, taking advantage of the pool terrace and the elegant Spa by Clarins. And then golf courses, relaxation area, saunas and steam baths, an indoor pool and a wide range of treatments. In the resort, there are two restaurants to choose from: Il Moretto, an elegant and tastefully decorated gourmet restaurant where guests can enjoy the finest Italian cuisine combined with wines chosen from a splendid menu. For a faster and more informal break, instead, there is Club House Restaurant, overlooking the golf course, where you can stop for a simple but wellmade dish. Also noteworthy is the bar, with its suggestive fireplace, ideal for a cocktail or for an after dinner liqueur.

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Group: «What matters is that the ingredients are fresh, quality and seasonal. Therefore, rather than at zero kilometer, we aim at the “real kilometer”: the supply chain must be traceable and controlled». Certified, even before short.

«We give great importance to the new generations: we try to create dynamic and fresh menus, able to please everyone and satisfy even the youngest diners». In short, a table tailored for each hotel with a standard in high common level.

Without forgetting the beverages list and authorial wine list: «In this case, we remain as faithful as possible to the territory».

 Blu Hotels Sede Centrale ed Operativa – via E. Fermi 7b Salò (BS) – loc. Cunettone

bluhotels.it

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the first “wine cruise” in the world 18-25 January 2020 GRANDIOSA CRUISE FLAGSHIP

€ 581

€ 499

TAXES AND INSURANCE INCLUDED

PRIVATE WINE TASTING INCLUDED

come on board with the GIGANTI DEL MARE with the best ITALIAN WINE

booking@winesea.it

(ONLY FOR THE FRIST 100 BOOKING)

ITINERARY - 8 days / 7 nights

Genoa, Civitavecchia, Palermo, Valletta, Barcelona, Marseille, Genoa

winesea.it

technical organization

PORTRAIT OF A CHEF IN TRE PIATTI

GIOVANNI SANTINI

NATURE, SIMPLICITY, KNOWLEDGE "Who am I in the kitchen?

My answer is with a photo of a pasta we make every day: an exaltation of manual craftsmanship that conveys an identitarian flavour, which I learned from my grandmother and that I refined day after day... » The words are by Giovanni Santini, born in 1976, graduated in Food Science and Technology in Piacenza.

After working as a waiter in the dining room, and later dealing with ingredients and research, he chose to move into the kitchen. For 10 years he has been the protagonist in the kitchen that belonged to his mother Nadia and even before to his grandmother Bruna.

WHERE Dal Pescatore Canneto sull'Oglio (MN) loc. Runate, 17 0376 723001 – dalpescatore.com POINTS IN THE 2019 GUIDE Cuisine 53 WIne Callar 18 Service 19 Bonus 2 Total 92 YEAR OF OPENING 1925

by Stefano Polacchi – photos by Philippe Schaff IN THE NEXT ISSUE, RECIPES BY: RICCARDO CAMANINI

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RECIPES

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PORTRAIT OF A CHEF IN TRHREE DISHES

“

VEGETABLE GARDEN MISTICANZA Fully represents the philosophy in which I identify myself: a preparation made with my head, my heart and my hands, a palette of colors, scents and flavours that materializes in its natural complexity only if love and knowledge guide our hands. The season changes the employed protagonists, the colours change, but the sense and the pleasure of building this bouquet step by step remain the same. The salt-brined fish, ginger mayonnaise and mustard then allow the taste of the dish to rise towards sapidity and acidity that don't unbalance the nature of the vegetable ingredients

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RECIPES

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PUMPKIN TORTELLI This dish is the emblem of our kitchen, of what for me and for us at Il Pescatore signify craftsmanship and identity. A filling that combines sweet and bitter enclosed in a thin sheet of pasta dough with an intense yellow colour. Each tortello, hand-folded with extreme precision, is a messenger that speaks of us: of our gastronomic culture and how we want it to be promoted. A shape, a flavour, an entire world

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PORTRAIT OF A CHEF IN TRHREE DISHES

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RECIPES

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PORTRAIT OF A CHEF IN TRHREE DISHES

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PINEAPPLE MACARONI WITH WILD STRAWBERRIES AND RASPBERRY SAUCE This is an idea that takes shape thanks to a fruit, a fresh dessert, a mix of natural sweetness and acidity. The very thin flakes of pineapple wrapped like macaroni tubes, cut and arranged like chimneys, are stuffed with a vanillascented heavy cream and then embellished with wild strawberries. A few mint leaves and a dash of powdered sugar lend a hint of sweetness...

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GAMBERO ROSSO X TENUTA LUISA

Tenuta Luisa: bar to starboard on tradition and elegance

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«Our family has been working in the farming world for four generations, and the fifth is already present in the company’s activities...» Speaking is Davide Luisa, agronomist and owner together with his brother Michele, winemaker, of the winery that bears his family’s name, Tenuta Luisa di Mariano del Friuli, a few kilometers from the border with Slovenia. «Up until the early 1960s, subsistence farming was what was practiced – continues Davide – it happens that in the early 1980s our father Eddi, aged just 44, suffered a serious heart disease that forced him to reduce his workload.

My brother Michele attended the last year of Oenology and I was in my first year of Agriculture University studies.

We had to make important decisions at that time, initially eliminating all the cattle farming, then the cereal field». Thus, at the end of the decade, the two brothers began to design the new cellar project. «We had a goal: to focus on the quality of the wines, for this we needed a winery both tech-

Culture of wine and the environment at the center of the mission of a young company in the heart of Friuli nical and of image that would bring value to the wines. I remember that at the time, when the harvest was finished, the farmers competed with those who produced more grapes per vineyard: after a few years the method and the philosophy of wine making changed drastically and we decided to substantially reduce the number of buds per plant with a consequent drop in yield per vine, in order to pursue quality at the expense of quantity». Today Tenuta Luisa can count on 170 hectares, of which 110 are vineyards: «We started with five hectares owned by our grandfather Delciso; the vineyards we have acquired over time have all been selected, chosen and purchased by the family for the characteristics they offered». But on what kind of soils are these vineyards

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cultivated? «We consider ourselves particularly fortunate because they are found in a patch of land that is the conjunction between the Doc Collio and the Doc Isonzo del Friuli. The substrate was formed over thousands of years thanks to the path of the Isonzo river, which then moved a few kilometers southwards. The result is a substrate of ponca (marl and sandstone, ed) and very mineral-rich clays». It’s here that Davide cultivates the classic vines of the Friulian tradition, giving life to a very articulate range. «We have a long tradition that makes us emerge, in Italy and in the world, for the elegance and longevity of our wines: they are characteristics on which we focus a lot in the company. Fashions pass, tradition is not forgotten». Tradition yes, but how about the environ-

GAMBERO ROSSO X TENUTA LUISA

1. The Luisa family 2. Sauvignon ‘17, Gold Medal at the Concours Mondial du Sauvignon 3. Desiderium ‘16, Tre Bicchieri recognition in the Italian Wines 2019 guide

Wine resort & wine tasting Consumers and wine lovers are increasingly curious about what’s inside the glass and are increasingly turning into wine tourists. «This is why we decided to accompany them on a journey of discovery and emotional experience: here you can stay overnight in the vineyards, visit the winery and walk among the rows and, of course, taste wine.

We have renovated the old cellar and built a small village with 7 apartments and 4 rooms. We are planning an extension of the resort to create a real rural hamlet with full comforts. Furthermore – explains Davide Luisa – we have acquired a historic building in Aiello del Friuli which was owned by the Counts of Strassoldo. The idea is to contribute to the prestige of Friuli by organizing food and wine events in a historical place that brings value the culture of the territory».

ment? Today, sustainability is a central theme in agriculture... «For years we have been struggling to safeguard the environment as much as possible. We are very careful to use minimum quantities of pesticides thanks to the use of sprayers that allow us to operate with more than halved doses compared to the norm. We have limited the use of herbicides to the minimum, thanks to new-generation mowers that can also work at the bottom of the plants.

From this year on half of the vineyard surface we will adopt the technique of sexual confusion: these are small pieces of string soaked in pheromones that help to keep harmful insects away without treatment. Finally we have almost completely eliminated chemical fertilizers: with the mowing of wild herbs we create a fundamental organic compost for the vine».

THE ESTATE IN NUMBERS

Year founded: 1927

170 overall hectares 110 hectares planted in vines 350.000 bottles produced annually

80% sold in Italy

I Ferretti, terroir of elegant Desiderium Among the lines of the company there is one that is called I Ferretti. The name derives from a particular geological conformation of the soil rich in iron hydrates free from the characteristic red color. «In 1997, given the results of an exceptional vintage, we decided to create this line from grapes grown in historic old vineyards on soils rich in trace elements that give aromatic complexity to wines that are bottled only in excellent years». Among the wines of the line the Desiderium stands out, a blend of Chardonnay, Friuli and Sauvignon: refined and elegant, which with the 2016 vintage brought the fifth Tre Bicchieri award to the company.

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 Tenuta Luisa – Mariano del Friuli (GO) – hamlet Corona – 048169680 – tenutaluisa.it

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GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZIO DI TUTELA DELLA DOC PROSECCO

PROSECCO Doc. Grand area, grand results

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It’s exciting that we managed to overthrow Champagne from the first place in the ranking of world best sellers.

Yet this sincere, fresh, effervescent and joyous wine made it: already from 4 years Prosecco Doc is the first sparkling wine in the world for quantity produced and exported volumes. The DOC was born in 2009 and holds together terroir bubbles extended over 4 provinces of Friuli Venezia Giulia and five in the Veneto. Recently acquiring Doc status, but with a centuries-old history: Prosecco has its roots in the town of Prosecco, a small town in the province of Trieste, from where everything started. «In these territories are important wines such as Pucino, mentioned in the Historia Naturalis of Pliny the Elder, but the characteristic bubbles are the result of the intuition of a chemist-winemaker: Antonio Carpenè who around 1850 at the Enological School of Conegliano, flanked by Professor Tullio De Rosa, he perfected the sparkling process that made Prosecco famous throughout the world», explains Tanja Barattin, head of promotion and value of Prosecco Doc Protection Consortium. This natural refermentation process enhances the aromas and freshness

ID card Territory: 4 provinces of Friuli Venezia Giulia (Gorizia, Pordenone, Trieste e Udine) 5 provinces of Veneto (Belluno, Padova, Treviso, Venezia, Vicenza) Types of Prosecco Doc: Spumante (Brut,

Extra Dry, Dry, Semi-Sec); Frizzante;

Refermented in the bottle and still Vineyards: 11.102 Wineries: 1.211 Spumante wineries: 348 Hectares planted in vines: 24.450 Production: 464 million bottles Export: 75% of production (348 million bottles) Main markets: UK, USA and Germany.

Together representing

68% of the export quota

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GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZIO DI TUTELA DELLA DOC PROSECCO

1. Vineyards of Prosecco Doc 2. Bottles signed by the Protection Consortium of the Prosecco denomination of controlled origin

Biodiversity and sustainability, the efforts of the Consortium

The Martinotti method After vinification and filtration, there is the natural refermentation of the wine in large autoclaves, by means of yeasts. The refermentation has a minimum duration of 30 days.

Subsequently the product is controlled from a chemical and organoleptic point of view and if the requirements are reached, the wine is certified with the State mark: from now it can be called Prosecco Doc. 2

The origins of the name Prosecco and the most ancient mentions of it date back to the first century AD precisely in the town of Prosecco in the municipality of Trieste

of native grapes, traditionally employed, giving life to pleasant and convivial wines. And on this basis the terroir and human abilities define the differences between zones, types and labels.

«The climate in the VenetoFriuli area is temperate – Tanja explains – in the north the Alps block the icy winds, to the south the Adriatic sea mitigates and brings sirocco and rain. The late summer temperature excursions then push the typical aromas of Prosecco». The soil here helps to have a base wine that is not too alcoholic and organoleptically fresh, dry and fruity: in short, the ideal from which to obtain Prosecco as we all love it, in Italy and in the world.

 Consortium for the protection of the Prosecco controlled denomination of origin

piazza Filodrammatici 3 - Treviso - 04221572383 - prosecco.wine

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«The Consortium has the objective of voluntarily associating the various categories of producers to guarantee the development of the Denomination and respecting the rules established by the Production Disciplinary.

The Consortium protects the uniqueness of Prosecco Doc by promoting and protecting the Denomination – explains Tanja Barattin – Central is the theme of the environment and sustainability. The collection of all the data concerning viticulture and winemaking is fundamental: the data will then be the basis for defining the methods to better manage both the cultivation and the vinification and bottling.

On the environmental front, we operate by providing timely information on good practices, promoting the planting of hedges and thickets to increase biodiversity and bring value to the landscape that produces these legendary bubbles».

THE GREAT NORTHERN WHITES. IN THE VALLE ISARCO AMID VINEYARDS, DOLOMITES AND CLIMATE CHANGE It's not easy to imagine life and agriculture at the foot of the majestic peaks of the Dolomites.

And yet, for a thousand years, wines have been made here and mountain farming has been practiced lending precious fruits. A territory that is at the crossroads of different cultures, rich in history and traditions, where cuisine marries beautifully with the savoury and elegant whites of the region. With a nagging thought: temperatures are rising excessively...

Words by Alessio Turazza Infographics by Alessandro Naldi

GLOSSARY

STORIES

T

he Isarco Valley is the most northern wine region of Italy and represents a unique place in the Alto Adige territory. It's a narrow valley eroded by glaciers and the course of the Isarco river, stubbornly wedged in the heart of the Alps. A deep, sharp and vertical crevice, which forces vines to sink their roots into steep slopes of little soil and outcropping rocks, or in the stony soils of narrow terraces, supported by neatly constructed dry-stone walls. The Isarco Valley is a world apart, a small and precious vineyard suspended between the peaks. Going up from Bolzano towards the Brenner pass, the road turns north-east and winds between the increasingly dark and looming slopes of the mountains. The cold shadow of the peaks hides the sun. The rocks jut on the skyline resting on the narrow horizon. Then the valley stretches slowly,

Tub tastings The tasting of a wine in the cask before it is (possibly racked) and bottled

becomes more welcoming, until it widens into the basin of Bressanone, surrounded by the splendid amphitheater of Varna and Novacella. A amphitheater planted in vines.

Social Cellar A cooperative winery whose partners (usually grape producers) give their grapes to be transformed into wine and sold under a common label

WINE GROWING IN THE ISARCO VALLEY In the history of the Isarco Valley, monks played a fundamental role. It's thanks to their patient work that the conservation of viticulture is alive today. Bressanone was a bishopric and the Abbazia di Novacella and Sabiona have always played a role of great importance in the social and economic life of the area. In the historic Novacella winery, still today one of the main producers in the Valley, wine was already being made in 1142. The devastation of phylloxera and two world wars almost completely destroyed the vineyards.

In the post-war period only a few ď‚„

Indigenous yeasts The enzymes that contribute to the fermentation of the must taken directly from the production cellar of that wine and therefore originated from that microclimate and from that very marc. The cellars are normally filled with local (or indigenous) yeasts. These enzymes may or may not be selected (to avoid the unknowns of spontaneous fermentations)

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Malolactic Second fermentation after the initial alcoholic fermentation that transforms malic acid (sour) into lactic acid (sweeter). Traditionally this is used for reds, but recently being used even on the most important and soft whites. Malolactic fermentation is inhibited if fresh and acid wines are desired Maceration on the skins This is the phase in which the pressed must is left to mature (extracting substance) on the skins, instead of immediately separating the two elements. This operation can be avoided altogether (for white vinifications of red grapes, for example) or it can be pushed to the extreme Varietal profile The aromatic parameters characteristic of a given grape variety Vertical Comparative tasting of different vintages of the same wine

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THE 3 MUST VISIT VINUM HOTELS FOR SLEEPING IMMERSED IN THE LANDSCAPE To make the experience of touring in the Isarco Valley even more intense and enjoyable, you can choose to stay in Vinum Hotels, hotels run by wine lovers or directly by wine producers. In the Isarco Valley there are 6 venues that are part of the Vinum Hotel project: My Arbor Plose Wellness Hotel in Sant'Andrea, Aktiv & Vitalhotel Taubers Unteterwirt in Velturno, Romantik Hotel Turm in FiĂŠ allo Sciliar, Granpanorama Hotel Stephannshof in Villandro, Hotel Feldthunterhof in Velturno, and Weigut Hotel Pacherhof in Varna. During our tour we chose the first three, respectively in the north, in the center and in the south of the valley.

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My Arbor Plose Wellness Hotel (Sant'Andrea - via San Leonardo, 26 - my-arbor. com - no children allowed) is a modern design hotel opened in May 2018. Its architecture, suspended between pine trees, conveys the feeling of immersing oneself completely in the alpine landscape. Made with great care in the choice of building materials, the hotel offers rooms with a warm and bright atmosphere, with a panoramic view of the pine forest and the mountains. The spa area with swimming pools, whirlpool, steam room, saunas and refined gourmet cuisine completes the picture.

Aktiv & Vitalhotel Taubers Unterwirt (Velturno - via J. Telser, 2 - unterwirt. com) is an old-fashioned hotel run by the Tauber family for the last five generations. An ideal choice for those who love, in addition to food and wine, sports and the great outdoors. In the kitchen young chef Alex Pfattener prepares traditional South Tyrolean dishes based on ancient recipes with a modern twist, favouring low-temperature cooking methods. The ingredients all come from small farms in the area.

Romantik Hotel Turm (Fie 'Allo Sciliar - piazza della Chiesa, 9 - hotelturm.it) is a synthesis of art, design, haute cuisine and wellness. The hotel was created around an old 13th century tower. Stefan Pramstrahler inherited his love for antiques collecting from his father and the walls of the hotel are a veritable twentieth-century gallery. In the ancient structure you can feel the charm of history, of the love for art and beauty in all its forms. The restaurant offers haute cuisine of excellence and the spa area is an oasis of peace, with saunas, steam room, hay baths and a swimming pool overlooking the Sciliar..

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STORIES

CHEFS TALK ON THE VALLEY: CUISINE, IDENTITY AND WINE PAIRINGS Two of the best Vinum Hotel chefs explain the cuisine of the area and talk about the wines of the region. Matthieu Domagala, chef at the restaurant of Romantik Hotel Turm in Fié allo Sciliar and Matthias Hinteregger, chef of My Arbor Plose Wellness Hotel.

How is South Tyrolean cuisine currently expressed?

Matthieu - The cuisine tries to increasingly reflect tradition.

We try to add value to local products sourced from farmers, breeders and artisans. Dining, even in the hotel sector, has a high quality level.

Matthias - Nowadays Alto Adige is able to combine the best of two different cuisines: light Italian and Mediterranean, and the more substantial cuisine of Central Europe.

Let's talk about wine: pair 4 dishes and 4 local grape varieties...

Matthieu - I would combine Sylvaner with a classic dish of white Terlano asparagus with aprosciutto served warm with Bolzano sauce. I would pair the Kerner with a citrus risotto and seared lobster. The Riesling would pair with leek soup and gray cheese served on black bread. I see Gewürztraminer paired with my wild salmon glazed with Ponzu, with a Shitaki mushroom dashi and rice wafers.

The Grüner Veltliner instead goes with the lightly smoked brook trout and Pustertal potato salad and apple and horseradish gelato.

Matthias - I see the Sylvaner for the dumplings with mushroom sauce. The Kerner goes well with a river trout on orzotto, vegetables and horseradish; I propose Riesling for carob flour ravioli filled with malga cheese fondue. The Gewürztraminer goes well with Alpine curry noodles with gray cheese sauce, speck and spring onions.

How do you interpret these trends?

Matthieu - I use local products, but I won't turn away from ingredients that are not strictly traditional: think of black garlic, squab, lobster and also foie gras. Plus, I always try to base my dishes on 3-4 ingredients..

Matthias - I like to define my dishes with three words: refined, pure and creative. Tradition is always very important, but I also like to go beyond, using ingredients from other food cultures.

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vineyards remained for family productions. Even if today South Tyrol is a land of great white wines, we mustn't forget that until the 1960s it was the red grape vines, and in particular the schiava, that was the most produced. It was in this period that a renaissance of the Isarco Valley germinated, with the creation of the Cantina di Chiusa, the recovery of old vineyards and the creation of new plants. Over the course of a few decades, we have gone from 70% red grapes to the almost exclusive cultivation of white grapes.

CLIMATE AND GRAPE VARIETIES The Isarco Valley is a narrow furrow between high mountain massifs: the Dolomites soar to the east and the Sarentine Alps to the west. The Alpine arc shelters the valley from perturbations and refreshes the climate with considerable temperature shifts. Precipitation is rare and in the summer months 

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the temperatures are very high, almost Mediterranean. The combination of these particular conditions makes this area a very popular one for white grapes. The vineyards are cultivated at an altitude between 350 and 950 meters, but almost all the producers are planting new vines above 800 meters, to counteract rising temperatures. The Isarco Valley is the undisputed realm of white grapes from northern Europe, all traditionally vinified in purity. Today the attention of the producers is concentrated above all on two varieties: sylvaner and kerner. Sylvaner remains the identity vine of the valley and produces wines of great finesse and elegance. Kerner is the most loved by consumers for its intense and slightly aromatic taste. In the upper part of the valley, müller thurgau, kerner and sylvaner are cultivated, as well as grüner veltliner, riesling, gewürztraminer and pinot grigio. To the south we also find

pinot bianco, sauvignon blanc and a bit of chardonnay. The red grape vines cover a few hectares, mostly zweigelt, portugieser, schiava and pinot noir.

THE SOILS OF THE ISARCO VALLEY Despite the fairly small territory, the soils of the Valley present a certain heterogeneity. In general, these are rich in moraine gravels and river sediments deposited between one ice age and another. They are permeable soils that are able to absorb heat quickly. In the Bressanone basin the vineyards are found mostly on the orographic left, which benefits from well exposed and sunny slopes. The soils are predominantly of glacial origin, composed of sand and pebbles, with the presence of slate rocks, gneiss and granite. South of the Bressanone basin, the valley narrows slightly south-west. Vines are cultivated on the orographic right, character-

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ized by soils rich in schists, gneiss and quartz porphyry. They are friable rocks with a lamellar composition, which, with the slow breakup, have created soils rich in gravel and mineral substances. Towards Chiusa, in the southern part of the Valley, the slopes are steep and the soils are very stony, with the presence of gneiss granite, gray porphyry, quartz and diorite.

A TOUR AMONG PRODUCERS In the last decades the Isarco Valley has experienced a period of particular vivacity. A generation of young producers has emerged, alongside the historic cellars of the area. They are winemakers who have stopped conferring at the Valle Isarco winery or at the Abbazia di Novacella and have begun to bottle their own wine. In our tour we visited a few vignerons and we talked with them about the current face of the Valley, future prospects and the problem of 

STORIES

1. preparing for the harvest: the crates ready in position along the rows while the workers proceed with the manual harvesting of the bunches (photo Hannes Niederkofler) 2. Romantik Hotel Turm: a suggestive corner in tune with the name of the structure 3. Speck, dill, chestnuts: an appetizer from the kitchen of Aktiv & Vitalhotel Taubers Unterwirt (photo Annelies Leitner) 4. The view of the mountains from the terrace of My Arbor Plose Wellness Hotel (photo Benno Prenn) 5. Wild game dish of My Arbor Plose Wellness Hotel (photo Benno Prenn)

In the opening, terraced vineyards grown on large steps on the Taschlerhof estate in the central part of the Israco Valley (photo Hannes Niederkofler)

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13 MUST-TASTE DISHES AND INGREDIENTS The Isarco Valley is a borderland that for centuries has been a natural midway point between the Mediterranean and northern cultures. The area's gastronomy (of peasant origin) is a fusion of the flavours of Italian, Ladin and Central European traditions.

1 Gerstensuppe Barley soup with speck and vegetables

2 Canederli Bread dumplings cooked in in broth, or served without broth, with varieties that include speck, vegetables or liver

3 Schlutzkrapfen Ricotta and spinach crescentshaped ravioli

4 Gulash Derived from the classic Hungarian recipe

5 Venison chops A classic of the South Tyrolean

hunting tradition

safeguard and restore value to this native breed that's particularly valuable for its high quality meat

6 Trout The typical freshwater fish caught in rivers in these valleys is eaten smoked or baked in foil

9 Speck Famous smoked boneless pork leg protected by PGI Alto Adige appellation

7 Villnรถsser Brillenschaf Lamb dish that is a Slow Food Presidia, typical of Val di Funes, made from animals raised in high mountain pastures. Lamb meat is also used to make cured salami

10 Honey Produced by local honeybees gathering alpine essences and summer flowers

8 Gray Alpine Cow breed The Graues Geisler Rind association (villnoess.com) gathers the small local farmers in a common project to

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11 Velturno Chestnuts The chestnut is the symbol of Velturno and in recent years it has become an important element of the local economy: there are about

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3,300 plants that surround the town

12 Barbiano Plums Plums are an integral part of the local cuisine, pastry art and distilleries of the village "of the leaning tower"

13 High altitude pasture cheeses In Varna, the reference point is the cheese production creamery of Hansi Baumgartner, called De Gust. The operation is specialized in refining raw milk cheeses hailing from the Alps, proposing a selection of excellent small artisan productions

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climate change. We started from the extreme north, above Varna, descending to the Sciliar area.

Above Novacella we met Hannes Baumgartner, who grows vineyards of the ancient Maso Strasserhof. With him we talked about the latest vintages: «Apart from 2014, we had very hot years, with wines that were often too rich and alcoholic. By now I always do 2 or 3 rounds in the vineyard during the harvest, to preserve the acidity and try not to exceed 13 alcoholic degrees. The climate also suggested that I change vineyard management. The first years I worked with yields of less than 60 quintals per hectare, now I'm raising production to get less concentrated wines». The new sauvignon blanc vineyard is also the child of global warming. «I planted the sauvignon 5 years ago.

It's a vine that I have always liked and now there are the conditions to grow it. The first vintage will be released in 2019». With Hannes we tasted the 2017 vintage and

the 2018 tests. Among the 2017 wines, the ones that stood out the most were the Riesling, the Grüner Veltliner and the Sylvaner Anjo. 2018 is announced as a harmonious and mature vintage. The Riesling, citrusy and floral; the Grüner Veltliner, intense and spicy and Kerner, with tropical notes and a touch of ginger, were particularly convincing. Among the novelties is a Cuvée made with sylvaner (50%), riesling (35%) and kerner (15%), aged in large oak barrels: the release is scheduled for spring 2020.

The Abbazia di Novacella represents the history of wine-making in the Valley. In addition to the religious vocation, the Abbey has always played an important social and economic role, buying grapes of small producers. We talked about the present and the future with Werner Waldboth, the winery's marketing manager. Even for him the most important change is concerning climate: «In the last 20 years the average tempera-

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ture in Bressanone has risen by 2° C, with increasingly hot summers. Especially one of our most important wines, Kerner, risks becoming too alcoholic and opulent. Today it's the wine we sell best and we must work to preserve its characteristics, even by raising the altitude of the vineyards.

However the symbolic wine of our territory remains Sylvaner. I find it more elegant, refined and with an interesting ability to evolve over time». The vertical of Sylvaner, which during the tasting brought us back to 2011, confirmed everything: over the years it offers aromas of citrus peel, yellow fruit, pine resin and a saline and mineral finish. The new trend of the Praepositus line is leaving behind concentrated and powerful wines in favour of a greater expressive finesse. Among the wines tasted, we particularly liked the Grüner Veltliner and the preview of the Riesling, which will be released in summer.

The vineyards of Maso Pacherhof 

STORIES

OUR 10 BEST GLASSES 1

 A.A. Pinot Bianco Praesulis 2017 – Gumphof Fiè allo Sciliar/Völs am Schlern (BZ) fraz. Novale di Presule - gumphof.it

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 A.A. Valle Isarco

BOLZANO MULES

Sylvaner Alte Reben 2016 – Pacherohf Varna/Vahrn (BZ) – fraz. Novacella pacherhof.com

Where to sleep

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 A.A. Valle Isarco Grüner Veltliner Praepositus 2017 – Abbazia di Novacella Varna/Vahrn (BZ) – fraz. Novacella abbazianovacella.it

Wineries Foodshop

RIO DI PUSTERIA Abbazia di Novacella

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 A.A. Valle Isarco Riesling 2017 – Strasserhof Varna/Vahrn (BZ) – fraz. Novacella strasserhof.info

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Kofererhof

Degust

BRESSANONE Taschlerhof

 A.A Valle Isarco

Pinot Bianco 2017 – Ebner Renon/Ritten (BZ) fraz. Campodazzo, 18 – weingutebner.it

Pacherohf

Strasserhof

 A.A. Valle Isarco

Grüner Veltliner Aristos 2017 – Cantina Produttori Valle Isarco Chiusa/Klausen (BZ) cantinavalleisarco.it 6

My Arbor Plose Wellness Hotel

LE CAVE

Kuenhof Aktiv & Vitalhotel Taubers Unteterwirt

7 A.A. Valle Isarco Sylvaner R 2017 – Kofererhof Varna/Vahrn (BZ) – fraz. Novacella koefererhof.it

Garlider

Radoar

8 Vigneti delle Dolomiti Sylvaner Hautnah 2016 – Garlider Velturno/Feldthurns (BZ) – garlider.it

Cantina Produttori Valle Isarco

9 A.A. Valle Isarco Riesling Kaiton 2018 – Kuenhof (prova di vasca) Bressanone/Brixen (BZ) loc. La Mara, 110 – kuenhof.com

BARBIANO Ebner

MEZZAVIA

10 A.A. Valle Isarco Sylvaner Lahner 2018 – Taschlerhof (prova di vasca) Bressanone/Brixen (BZ) loc. La Mara, 107 – taschlerhof.com

ORTISEI

Gumphof

CAMPODAZZO

PARCO NATURALE

BOLZANO

5KM

Romantik Hotel Turm

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VALLE ISARCO

VALLE ISARCO IN NUMBERS

VINEYARD CHARACTERISTICS ALTITUDE

VINE PLANTED AREA

450 ha

AVERAGE INCLINATION 900

Kerner 20,5%

Bolzano

S.L.M.

82ha

Grüner Veltliner 6,25% Sylvaner 17,25%

OROGRAPHIC POSITION

69 ha 89

EXPOSURE N

FIUME ISARCO

O

E

10%

2.200.000 75% ITALY

90 %

, 25 %

59ha

ANNUAL PRODUCTION

30 % 70 % LEFT

Pinot Grigio 5,25%

S.L.M.

25 %

RIGHT

10 ,75 %

%

60

400

Pinot Nero 2 % Schiava 2 % Portugieser 2,5 % Zweigelt 4,25 % Chardonnay 0,50 % Sauvignon 2,38% Pinot bianco 2,63%

Riesling 7%

51ha

Müller Thurgau 14,75%

Gewürztraminer 12,75%

25% REST OF THE WORLD

S

15%

10% MOSTLY USA AND JAPAN

EUROPE MOSTLY GERMANY AND SWITZERLAND

are located above Novacella, in a cool and sunny area. The wines of Andreas and Katharina Huber have an essential style, which expresses the varietal purity of the vines, combining fragrant fruit with vibrant acidity. A characteristic that is especially noticeable in the Kerner and in the Pinot Grigio 2017, two wines of extreme finesse, without concessions to an easy and obvious breadth and aromatic richness. Equally excellent was the Sylvaner and the Grüner Veltliner 2017, but the true champion is the Sylvaner Alte Reben, one of the best white wines in the Valley. We asked Katharina some unreleased news: «We acquired new vineyard above Rodengo, at 900 meters above sea level, with the idea of planting pinot noir and chardonnay to make a classic method. For now it's just a project then shall see...».

Florian Hilpold manages the Villscheiderhof estate, which is located on the first hills above Bressanone. A good part

of the vineyards is cultivated in a basin with almost prohibitive slopes, characterized by a strong sun coverage and considerable temperature fluctuations.

The 2017 Sylvaner and Kerner seem to have suffered a bit from the hot vintage, with very mature and intense profiles.

We preferred the Sylvaner 2016, delicate and balanced with a fresh and savory finish. As Florian said, the company is in the process of changing: "In the coming years we plan to eliminate part of the apple trees to make room for new vineyards and increase production".

Returning to Peter Pliger is always a pleasure. Walking with him through the vineyards conveys the same sense of harmony with nature that can be savoured in his wines. Among the first to leave the Social Cellar and to marry organic and biodynamic farming, the Kuenhof estate is still today an essential reference point. Peter's wines surprise with their natural balance. They

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possess a zen character, free of tension or unexpressed energy. They spread on the palate in a harmonious way, with a fruit that's perfectly balanced by smooth and very well integrated acidity. His approach to wine is philosophical and the vineyard is seen within a wider and more complex ecosystem, made up of vital and energy cycles that cover every aspect of existence. Even Peter is worried about the climate: «The vintages are getting hotter and there is a risk of making wines that are too alcoholic or having the need to harvest too soon.

For this reason I bought a new vineyard at 900 meters where I will plant riesling. The location is very beautiful and the terrain is rich in rocks and geodes». Among the tests tasted with him stand outs were the Sylvaner and Riesling 2018, both very promising. During the tasting we also raised reflection on the vines: «I love the sylvaner – said Peter – and despite the commercial success of Kerner, I

STORIES

am convinced that this is the vine on which we should focus in the future».

A few meters from the vineyards of Peter Pliger is the Taschlerhof estate of Peter Wachtler, a winemaker of great sensitivity, who always manages to get the best from his grapes. In recent years the style of his wines has changed slightly: less richness, more tension and sapid depth. «A few years ago we worked in the vineyard to try to get more concentration, now the goal is to have naturally balanced grapes, less powerful and alcoholic wines, more elegant and with better drinkability, especially with regard to the kerner». Always a great supporter of the sylvaner, Peter produces two versions, the classic and the Lahner selection, made with two harvests and partial aging in wood. Among the wines of 2017, the two Sylvaners and the Riesling deserve a prominent place. The 2018 samples announce an interesting Sylva-

ner Lahner, a nice citrus Riesling and a fresh and slender Kerner.

In Velturno, Christian Kerschbaumer grows his family's Maso vineyards with very clear ideas. Organic and biodynamic agriculture, indigenous yeasts, natural development of malolactic fermentation are the key words of the Garlider wines.

Labels that reflect the varietal aromas of the grape and the characteristics of the area in a clear and frank manner.

Christian produces wines that are characterized by harmonious elegance, an enveloping balance, yet capable of expressing energy and freshness. Among the best tastings, the Grüner Veltliner and Sylvaner 2017, always one of his most successful wines. Christian considers the sylvaner the most suitable vine for the area's climate: «The sylvaner is the variety that is the least problematic, it's the one that has better tolerated even the frost of 2017. It's a vine that produces very

pleasant wines and easily pairs with many dishes». Christian also loves experimenting and produces a Grüner Veltliner and a Sylvaner macerated on the skins. We especially liked the Sylvaner 2016, which has kept the typical varietal profile, enriched by a greater aromatic complexity and a strong and mineral, deep vein.

The Cantina produttori Valle Isarco is an important piece of local history.

Founded in Chiusa in 1961 by 24 members, today is the smallest social winery in South Tyrol, counting 150 hectares and 130 members. For some years now the level of the wines has been growing and the young winemaker Hannes Munter intends to continue on the path of quality, increasingly focusing on the Aristos line. Obviously, the production of 900,000 bottles imposes a style of wines that's a little more mainstream, with a clear difference between the Classic line that's fresh and

WINE AND BEYOND, RADOAR SPIRITS Among the excellence of the Isarco Valley is also a wide range of spirits produced by Radoar. The Maso of the estate is located near Velturno and has been managed under the organic regimen since 1997. Respect for the environment, love for nature and sustainability have always been the guidelines of this company, also summarized in their logo: a circle with eight rays, symbol of the wheel of existence and the sun. The vineyards and orchards are farmed according to the biodynamic regulations at an altitude of about 900 meters, on predominantly schist soils. Radoar produces excellent wines with Müller Thurgau, Kerner, Zweigelt and Pinot Noir, but is mostly famous for its distillates. Grappa and brandy all come from organically grown fruits and are still produced with passion and artisan care. The manufacturing process involves double distillation and the range of products also includes labels made with ancient varieties of pears, prunus domestica, quince, Steinpepping apples and chestnuts. These are distillates of great finesse and aromatic intensity, which genuinely express the varietal characteristics of each individual fruit.

Radoar - Velturno (BZ) - Pedratz, 1 0472855645 - radoar.com

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VALLE ISARCO

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6. The splendid garden of Abbazia di Novacella: at its best in the height of spring 7. The vineyards of Ebner winery, set in the narrow valley close to the peaks in the southern part of the Isarco Valley (photo Hannes Niederkofler)

fragrant, and the Aristos line, which is more intense and rich. The Sabiona labels deserve a separate mention: 3,000 bottles between Sylvaner and Kerner, produced in the high and suitable vineyards of the ancient Benedictine Abbey, which are among the top excellence of the territory.

In the southernmost area of the valley, near Fiè allo Sciliar, Cristhoph Mock grows 4 hectares of vineyard at Maso Wassererhof. Production began only in 2013, when he stopped giving his grapes to the Bolzano social cellar. This is still a young winery, with vineyards in a very cool area and with deep soils of porphyry, clay, limestone and dolomie.

Aside from the vines to the north, here they grow sauvignon blanc, pinot bianco and pinot grigio. The wine that most convinced us was the Sauvignon 2017, fresh, tasty and with a delicate aroma.

The Ebner winery, owned by young winemaker Florian Unterthiner, is lo-

cated in Campodazzo, on a promontory beautifully sunny and exposed to the Ora del Garda. Among the vineyards there is a strange Mediterranean atmosphere, refreshed only at night by the winds coming down from the Ritten and the Sciliar. Until 2012the area produced wine only for the Maso restaurant, now there are about 25,000 bottles sold. Florian's wines are the genuine expression of the area: «I want to make wines that are faithful to the characteristics of my vineyards. Here the pinot bianco, the grüner veltliner, the sauvignon blanc and the gewürztraminer express their great richness and maturity, while maintaining good freshness». We liked the Gewürztraminer and the Grüner Veltliner for their aromatic intensity, but our favourite wine was the Pinot Blanc 2017, with its beautiful floral notes and aromas of ripe white fruit.

At the extreme south of the valley, as we approach the end of our route, un-

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der the slopes of the Sciliar massif, we found the Bessererhof estate. Otmar Mair grows vineyards on stony soils, rich in diorite and gray porphyry, in an area with strong temperature ranges.

We tasted the preview wines of 2018, which are already quite open and expressive. The Kerner is striking for its richness and the Gewürztraminer for elegance, but the Pinot Blanc and the Sauvignon have very promising delicacy and depth of expression. Equally interesting is the Chardonnay Riserva Fellis 2016, which lends scented floral notes, a beautiful ripe fruit and a fresh and savoury finish. Due to the owners' engagements, we couldn't visit the estates of some of the most famous names in the Isarco Valley: Manni Nössing, Gumphof by Markus Prackwieser, Köfererhof by Günther Kerschbaumer. But we still tasted their wines and some actually ended in the top list of our 10 best tastings. 

GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Maria Victoria Santiago CONTRIBUTORS Stefania Annese, Francesca Ciancio Livia Montagnoli, Stefano Polacchi, William Pregentelli, Marco Sabellico, Loredana Sottile, Alessio Turazza

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