April4-10 2023 Volume 44 Number 14
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4 GA MB IT > BES TO FN EW OR LE AN S. CO M >A PRIL 4-1 0>2 02 3 APRIL4 —APRIL 10,2023 VOLUME 44 || NUMBER14 COVERPHOTO BY RANDYSCHMIDT COVERDESIGNBYDORASISON SPRINGBARISSUE TheBoilada!. 12 Meet your bartender!. 13 NEWS OpeningGambit. 6 Commentary 8 Clancy DuBos. 9 BlakePontchartrain 10 PULLOUT Details................................................... FEATURES Arts &Entertainment 5 Eat&Drink 17 Music Listings 24 Music 25 GoingOut 26 Puzzles. 27 TheSpringBarIssue Aplace whereeverybody knowsyourname 11 CONTENTS
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Bittersweet
‘Wherethe Suga Still Sweet’ premieres at We Will Dream Festival
WHENBRIANEGLANDSTARTEDAN ARTIST’SRESIDENCYLASTSUMMER at theMississippi Center forCultural ProductioninUtica,Mississippi,the program challenged participants to do aproject that centered on rural life in theSouth.Atfirst unsurewhat constituted aproject representative of thebroader Southorrural life,he decided that anything in hisexperiencesgrowing up in Breaux Bridge, Louisiana,must be relevant.
“All thethings from my life must be Southern,” he says.“My life was goingtochurchevery Sunday.I grew up around alot of sugarcane. Goingtothe librarywas part of my life.Mymom used to hang clothes on theclothesline. Everything that waspartofmylife— Ifound away to putinthere.”
Theplay, “Wherethe Suga Still Sweet,”premieresApril 8atthe We Will DreamFestival. It’s oneoffour playsbyemerging Blackplaywrights withties to theSouth that arepartof thefestivalpresented by No Dream Deferred theateratthe Andre CaillouxCenterfor Performing Arts and CulturalJustice.
“Wherethe Suga Still Sweet” centers on Runna, ayoung manwho is oftenlostinhis ownthoughts and relivingthe past.Atayoung age, he lost hisclose friend Sondelo. Runna’s greataunt, NannyMae, hasraisedhim,and shestill brings himtochurch, wherethe preacher, Vern-Mayor,isintentonsaving Runna,who has notyet decided to be baptized into thechurch. VernMayorisaninsistent and thundering presence,and he’s driven by his ownquestfor redemption
“Everybodyinthisplayis trapped in some way,”Egland says “Runna,inhis ownmind. Nanny Maeistrappedinnever having been abletolive. Alot of people need religionasa waytohealtheir pastwoundsorpasttransgressions.Vern-Mayorwants to help people,but hisgreatest driving forceand need is redemption.”
NannyMae hasraisedRunna, butsince ayoung age, she’shad to raise younger siblingsand other family members’children.She’s barely hadachancetofocus on her ownlife, andsticking close to thechurchhas helped her. In an unguarded moment,she taps her feet to musicemanating from the nearby Suga Shack, anight spot whereshe andother church memberswould notgo.
Thechurchisthe primarysetting of thedrama,which treatsthe audience like thecongregation.Attimes, NannyMae addressescongregants, and sometimesRunna sits with the audience. Some of thepreaching could soundfamiliar or age-old
Butthe settingiscontemporary,and theshowreflectsmore modern elementsEgland grew up with,likemoviesand comicbooks Runna tellsthe congregationthat he has superpowers.It’sone of the ways he triestocopewith the past andwiththe pressures of thechurch.
Runna’s friendship with Sondelo wasnot viewed innocentlybysome.
“Homosexualityisbrought up,” says director Lauren Turner,who foundedNoDream Deferred theater.
“NannyMae brings it up and triesto pray it outofRunna.Itspeakstothe wayweinterpret gender expressions and what that means as it relates to sexuality. Thereare so many assumptions.Eveninthe church, thereare thingsRunna is doing, the wayheembracespeople is viewed as feminine, andthereforehemust be gay, and‘We need to pray the gayaway.’”
Though Sondelodiedyoung, thebond still resonatesfor Runna
As with some of thescripture that Vern-Mayorcites,manythingscan be interpretedindifferent ways,and Runna is viewed askancebysome.
“Thisispartoftheir beliefs,” Egland says.“This is what hasbeen giventothem and ingrained in them.Maybe they won’tbeable to
by Will Coviello |
LosTigresdel Norte JUSTSEVERALYEARSSHYOFITS
50THANNIVERSARY,Los Tigres del Norteisone of thebest-known bandsplaying nortenomusic.The California-based band of Mexicanborn musicianswon itsseventh Grammy Awardatthisyear’sceremonyand is nowonthe “Siempre Contigo”tour. LosTigresdel Norte plays theSmoothie King Centerat 8p.m.Saturday,April 8. Tickets are $49via smoothiekingcenter.com.
‘MoulinRouge!’
GwendolyneFoxworth, DonyaèAsanteandJustin WilliamDavisstarin‘Where theSugaStillSweet.’
shakeitout in theirlifetime. They’re notbad people.Theymight be the most loving people.You mightlove them dearly.That’sthe intersection wherethishappens.”
“Wherethe Suga Still Sweet” is oneoftwo premieresfor Egland He’s also an actor, and hasappeared on localstages,including in Goat in theRoad’simmersive drama“The Uninvited.”Egland hasbeendoing more film work,and he appears in “Renfield,”the horror comedy starring Nicolas Cage as Dracula that’s about to opennationally Egland is currentlyaresidentartistwithNationalBlack Theatre. He’s working on anew playthatalso reflects on hisexperiences living in Breaux Bridge
“Where theSugaStill Sweet” runs throughMay 21 at theWeWill DreamFestival.It’sinrotationwith “Drapetomania: ANegroCarol,” whichruns throughApril 30.A third full production,“TheDefianceof Dandelions,” opensApril 28 and runs throughJune17. Thefestival hoststhe HBCU TheatreSummit April 13-16. Thefestival concludes withagalacelebratingJuneteenth. Fortickets andinformation about shows andother festivalevents, visitnodreamdeferrednola.com.
THOUGHTHESTORYOFAYOUNGBRITISH COMPOSERFALLINGFORAPARISIAN PERFORMER and courtesan is still set in bohemiansectionsofturn of thecentury Paris,the musicalis lavish and glitzy andbased on Baz Luhrmann’s 2001 film.The score is filled with many pophitsfrom thediscoera to thepresent.The touringBroadwayproductionisat SaengerTheatre from Wednesday, April 5, to Sunday,April 16 Showtimes vary.Visitsaengernola comfor ticketsand information.
Crescent City Classic RUNNERSFROMTHECOMPETITIVE TOTHECOSTUMEDFOLLOWASIXMILECOURSE that starts near the CaesarsSuperdome, headsto theFrenchQuarter andendsin City Park.The 10k is followed by Racefest withmusic,a race costumecontest, inflatables and more.There’salso atwo-day Health andFitness Expo on April 6-7. Theracebegins at 8a.m Saturday,April 8. To register and forinformation,visit ccc10k.com
TheResidents
MYSTERIOUSAVANT-GARDE,EXPERIMENTAL,WEIRDOARTROCK —name your genre—band TheResidents arecelebrating50years as an
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THUMBS UP/ THUMBS DOWN THE COUNT #
CalceaJohnsonandNe’Kiya
Jackson,twoseniors at St Mary’sAcademy, arebelievedto have donesomething mathematiciansthoughtimpossible for2,000 years: proving the PythagoreanTheoremusing trigonometry withoutcircular logic —the assumptionthatyou couldn’tprove thetheoremusingtrig because thetheoremis itself thefoundationoftrig.The tworecentlygavea presentation to an American Mathematical Societychaptermeeting in Georgiaand arenow beingencouraged to submit theirwork to apeer-reviewedjournal
CouncilcouldbanresidentialSTRs ifnewrulesdon’twork
TheCityofNewOrleans hassecured$24.6 million in funding to redevelopLincoln Beach, theimportant NewOrleans East amusementparkusedby BlackNew Orleaniansduring segregation.Mayor LaToya Cantrell’s administration started raising fundsfor redevelopmentin2020and performed asiteassessment, which said the15-acre site couldbesafely redeveloped. Thecityhopes to startlater this year
ASTHESHORT-TERMRENTALINDUSTRYTHREATENSLAWSUITS against theCityofNew Orleans over newrules thecouncil passed last week,CityCouncil PresidentJP Morrellissendinga messageto STRplatforms:Cooperatewith thelaw or face atotal banon residentialSTRs.
In an interviewwithGambit, Morrelldoubleddownoncommentshemadeatthe March 23 councilmeeting,sayingthat should theindustry fightorrefuse to comply with thenew rules,the Council could attempttooutlaw residentialSTRsaltogether.
However,whether theCouncil would actually vote to ban residentialSTRsinthese cases remainsunclear.Whenasked by Gambit,mostofthe other council memberswerefar less committal than Morrell, though noneruled outthe idea altogether
Council Member Freddie King told Gambit he agreed with Morrell, and Council Member Joe Giarrusso said he “would certainly consider aresidential bangiven that therules have progressively become morerestrictive and residents want to live in neighborhoodsand want enforcement.”
Aconsultant hiredbythe boardhas recommended ashakeup to make schools inthe state’s largest schooldistrictmore “efficient”and cutbackonresources that aredeemedwasteful,suchas emptyclassroomsand campuses that aretoo largefor thestudentbody, as enrollmenthas declined. If adopted April 5, it would affect thousands of school students on both sidesofthe Mississippi River. According to TheTimes-Picayune, changeswould take place next year at theearliest.
C’EST WHAT ?
What’s your go-to drinkwhen theweather warmsup?
MayorLaToyaCantrell boycotted apublic meetingon theNOPDconsent decree scheduledlast week at Loyola University and banned city employees from speaking at such public meetings without herpermission. Theaction promptedthe federal judge overseeingNOPDreforms to cancel themeeting.It’sthe latest move by Cantrell to try to forcethe terminationofthe consentdecree.
“Thisisthe last best offer forSTRstoexist at all” in New Orleans,” Morrellsaid. “I knowI speakfor probablyasolid majorityofmycolleaguesinthatwe’re notgoingtonibble at STRs for thenextthree years. If this deal is undone, or if it is substantially compromised, theonlything left forthe Council to do,and Iwill certainlyleadthateffort, is to just ban residentialSTRscompletely.”
Morrellcited twopotential instanceswhere theCouncil could trytoban STRs:STR platforms notcooperatingwith thecityto ensure only legal STRs arelisted on theirsites,orthe courts strikingdownamajor part of thenew rules, includingarequirementthat thecityonlygiveSTR permits to people,not business entities
Council MemberOliver Thomas did notdirectlyanswerthe question of whether he’d vote fora residentialban,sayingthe council would need to consultcityattorneys and thecommunity before makingany further decisions because “yournuclear option can’tbeyourfirst option.”
ButThomasalso said thecourts strikingdownthe newrules would forcethe council andthe community “intoapositionthatoffersus very little,ifany,other choice.”
Council Members LesliHarris and Helena Moreno declinedto answer thequestion, andCouncil Member Eugene Greendid not return arequest forcommentas of press time.
Thecity, Morrellsaid, hasidentified thousands of illegal STRs
22%
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THENUMBER OF JEFFERSON PARISHPUBLICSCHOOLS THAT WOULDCLOSE UNDERA PLAN BEINGCONSIDERED BY THESCHOOLBOARD.
operatinginNew Orleans,which aretypically listed online on STR platforms.But afteracourt decision last year forced theCouncil to quicklyrewrite thecity’sSTR rules, Morrellsaid theCouncil is giving regulating residentialSTRsone last shot forthe fraction of STRowners whoare operatinglegally Thefirst test of thenew laws will be when they go into effect July 1. Under therules,atfirst thecity will permitone residentialSTR per square block, or four sidesofa city block.The city will usealottery system to select which owner or operator will receivethe permit.
Afterthe city givesout licenses under thelottery system,the new rulesallow theCouncil to permitup to twomoreSTRsper square block on acase-by-casebasis,aprocess that would involveneighborhood inputand could take months. King proposedthe exception, and only Greenand Thomas votedagainst it. “Atsomepointhousing advocatesand workforceadvocates need to know that at least somebodypolitically hearsand understandshow importantthisissue
is,” Thomas told Gambit.“So that’s allmyvoterepresented.”
Thecity’sSafetyand Permits office willneed to work outthe detailsofthe lotterysystemand regulationsbythen. Currentlypermitted STRs canremainpermitted untilthe newrules kick in,but once they do,Morrell said,STR platformsshould be readytoimmediatelyremove allexistinglistings in NewOrleans and to sharedata with thecitytoensuretheyare onlylisting permittedSTRs.
“Ifwehave therules andregs readytogofor that July deadline and theplatforms can’tcommit to be in compliance, then the Council is goingtohavetoweigh in again becausewe’re certainly notgoingtogivethe platforms an extramonth or twomonthsorfour monthstodotheir job,”hesaid.
Thesheer number of illegal STRs in thecityprovesthe existing system,which hasthe city’s Safety and Permitsofficeidentify illegal STRlistings one-by-one andask the platforms to take thelisting down, isn’t working. Thecityhas increased staffingatthe office butisstill short
on hearingofficerstodecidecases
Afterthat, platforms aretakinga week to delistarentalafter thecity notifies them,accordingtoMorrell.
“The lack of urgencyinAirbnb and other platforms in complying with theexistinglaw really callsto questionwhether or notthey’re goingtocomplywiththe new law,”hesaid. “The other thingthat would triggera total banisthat afterwe’ve letthisnew regime be in place forayear, if we’restill seeing3,000-4,000 illegalSTRsand ourpoor permit office that isactually doingagoodjob right nowhas to continually playwhack-a-mole whileAirbnb other platformsallow illegal people to host, then there’ll be no more STRS because that’s notfair to thecity.” Another nonnegotiable from the council,Morrell said,isthe new rule requiringthe city only give permits to individuals, notbusiness entities,and limiting STRpermits to oneper person
At thecouncil meeting, Council Vice PresidentHelenaMoreno said thecityhad alreadybeen threatened with alawsuit over
that pieceofthe lawbut that it wasessential formakingsureno onereceivesmorethan onepermitsince ownership of abusiness entity canchange
“Atthe endofthe day, Ithink if thereare going to be STRs in residentialneighborhoods,then they should be operated by people wholiveinthe neighborhood,” Moreno said Morrelltold Gambit should courts strike it down,thatwould be “crossingthe Rubicon”and could prompt afullban from theCouncil “Ifwecan’t limititto naturalpersons,then it makesitalmostimpossible to regulate them,” he said
As thecity’spermittingoffice prepares forthe rules to go into effect in July,Morrell said the future of residentialSTRsinNew Orleans still remainsupinthe air.
“Wereally allhave to wait and seehow theplatforms and the operators react,”hesaid. “Ifthere is awholesale revolt andattempt to circumvent thelaw,theyreally aren’t goingtogivethe council any choicebut to shut thewhole thing down.” —KAYLEEPOCHE
Dream without boundaries
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AsGOPauthoritarianism spreads,thekidsare NOTalright
THEDECISIONBYBENFRANKLINHIGH SCHOOLSTUDENTSTOWALKOUT
on March31and leada citywide protest against right-wing Republicans’ dangerousattacks on humanand civilrightswas thelatest in anumber of similar protests in other states dominated by theracist, transphobicfaction of theGrand OldParty
Children notyet able to vote in Florida, Arkansas,Iowa, Kansas and nowhereinNew Orleans have watched in horror as adults in charge of theireducationand well-beinghave either joined the GOPrampageagainst them or failedtostanduptoit. Theirtrans classmateshave been stripped of theirright to access life-saving medical care and of theirbasic dignityand humanity
AuthoritarianRepublican officials from JeffersonParish to southFlorida also seek to pull librarybooks aboutthe LGBTQ community,America’s uglyhistory of racismand discrimination and other topicsthatdiscomfortthem —ostensiblyto“protectchildren.” Meanwhile, many of those same Republicansare busy attempting to erasethe histories and cultures of BlackAmericans, AsianAmericans, First Nations Peoples andother minoritycommunities by scrubbingtextbooks —astheywagerelentless war against women
Is it anywonder thestudents of BenFranklin, seeing allofthis, took thedifficult andbrave step to stand againstRepublican authoritarianism and forthe basic principles of fairness,justiceand common causepromisedbythis nation’s founders?
Some well-meaningadultswill look at theprotestand nod their headswitha paternalisticsmile “The kids arealright,” they’llsay, theirspiritsliftedbythe hope thesebrave young people instill Andthenthose same adults will go backtodoing nothingabout theproblem.
Thefactofthe matter is the kids arenot alright.Far from it High school students shouldn’t have to riskarrest or facedifficult,potentially family-rending politicalarguments with their parents. They should just be kids —going to school, playing sports
and inventingnew ways to have fun, notleadingthe fightfor this nation’s soul
We adults,taskedbynature and historywithraising this generation,have failed our primaryresponsibility:protectingthemfromharm. Toomany of us have spenttoo muchtime yearning fora return to some fairy-tale“before.” Before the pandemic.Beforethe January6 Insurrection.BeforeTrump. Before well-meaningpeople,particularly well-meaningwhite people, blithelydismissed thegrotesque attacksagainst ourdemocracy from withinour nation’s borders.
Adults in NewOrleans and across thecountry must pull their headsout of thesand and take up thehard, brutalworkofturningbackthe tide of hatredand authoritarianism that is sweeping across America. Withoutus, our youthwill fighta courageous but ultimately unwinnable war.
We hope that,whenthislong and difficultfight forthe soul of Americaisover, today’syouth will notonlyfindthattheir efforts have restored some measureof progressand peace, butalso that they canforgive theadultswho, insteadofjoiningand protecting them,abandoned them
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COMMENTARY
ON VEWTHROUGH MAY7 VIE ROU AY 7 GH M W TH
Transrightsarehumanrights IMAGE BY CHEIKAT/ GETTYIMAGES
Let’sfindabetterwayto filllegislativevacancies
THERECENTSPECIAL ELECTIONINHOUSE
DISTRICT93,which encompasses some primerealestate in downtown New Orleans andsurroundingneighborhoods,producedone of thelowest voter turnouts in memory, maybeeverin Louisiana.Barely6% of theeligible voters turned outfor the Feb. 18 primary. In the March25runoff, less than 10%voted BusinessmanAlonzoKnox wonthe bitterly contested runoff against criminaljustice reform advocate Sibil“Fox” Richardson Knox will have to runagain in Octobertokeepthe seat District93alsooccupiesa specialplace in Louisianahistory, whichmakes thedismalturnout so disappointing.
In 1967,votersinthatdistrict electedLouisiana’s first Blackstate legislator sinceReconstruction Ernest “Dutch”Morial. Tenyears later, Morialwas electedNew Orleans’first Blackmayor.
Morial’s successorsinclude civil rights advocate DorothyMae Taylor,the first Blackwomanto serveinthe Louisiana Legislature; and Rev. AveryAlexander,a labor andcivilrightsleaderwho served 24 yearsinthe Houseand died whileinoffice.
With so muchhistory to carry forward, it’s shameful that so few voters turned outtochoose a newrep
That’s no knock against Knox or Richardson.The biggestimpediment wasprobablytiming.When then-Rep.Royce Duplessis won an earlier specialelectiontothe stateSenate, HouseSpeaker Clay Schexnayder timedthe special election to succeed Duplessis to makesurethe districtwould be representedwhenthe annual session begins April 10
Unfortunately, theFeb.18primaryfellonthe Saturday before MardiGras, when thewildly popularKrewe of Endymionrolled throughthe districtand,nodoubt, distracted many voters.Another explanationfor thelow turnout maybevoter fatigue. Folksare tiredofpoliticsand elections.
Barely6%ofeligiblevoters turnedoutfortheFeb.19 primaryinHouseDistrict93
Is therea better waytofill alegislative vacancy?
Maybe. In fact, there’sa template alreadyinplace
In 2008,votersapproveda constitutionalamendment allowing theHouse Speaker or theSenate Presidenttoappointaninterim replacement when amember of theirrespective chamber is called away to active military duty.
Theamendmentallowsthe temporarilyabsent lawmaker to nominate threedistrictvoterstoserve in theinterim.The nomineesare vetted by theHouse or Senategovernmental affairs committee, andthe chamber’s presiding officerchoosesone. If theseatcomes up forelectionin theinterim,the temporarylawmaker cannotqualifytorun
Theamendmentwas proposed by then-Rep.NickLorussoofNew Orleans, whoservedinthe U.S. Army Reserves and wascalled to active duty throughout2009.
In Lorusso’sabsence, attorney GregoryErnst dida fine jobasthe interimrep
Whynot usea similarapproach to fill alllegislative vacancies?Let interimappointees (who would be barred from running)serve throughthe ensuing fallelections so voters could electnew legislators when turnoutisrelativelyhigh. There’snoperfect wayto choose leaders in ademocracy. Butweshouldn’t have to choose between MardiGrasand voting We alreadyknowwhich oneloses that contest
9 GA MB IT > BES TO FN EW OR LE AN S. CO M >A PRIL 4-1 0>2 02 3 CLANCY DUBOS @clancygambit
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HeyBlake, ArecentlocalobituarymentionedsomeonewasagraduateoftheTouroSchoolof Nursing.Ididn’tknowTouro hadanursingprogram.What canyoutellmeaboutit?
Dearreader, TOUROINFIRMARY,ESTABLISHEDIN
1852,openedits nursingschoolin 1896.Itwas originally called the TouroInfirmaryTrainingSchoolfor Nurses.With 15 students enrolled, classeswereheldina fewrooms on thebottomfloor of thehospital.
Theschool’sfirst director was Frances Quaife,a NewYorknative who also helped establishthe first nursingschoolinCanada. Once here, shewould also help establishand serveasthe first presidentofthe LouisianaState Nurses’ Association.
“Our aimistobeuptothe highest standard.Wewill stop at nothingshortofthe best andhighest,” shesaid of herTouro assignmentin aSept. 6, 1896,article in TheDaily Picayune. “Weexpecttodrawour pupils from thebest families and educate theyoung womendown here in theSouth to theadvantages andnobility of theworkof thetrained nurse.”
She explained that in addition to beingprovidedwithroom and board, nursingstudentswould be paid$6per month forthe first year and $12per month forthe second year of thetwo-yearprogram
Accordingtoa 2014 University of NewOrleans doctoraldissertation by PaulaFortier,in1915a new
BLAKEVIEW
three-storybuildingdesignated fornursingstudents opened on Coliseum Street behindthe hospital. It wasnamedinQuaife’s honor.A February1921article in TheNew Orleans Item listed the29graduates that year and said “studentnurses are…given apleasanthome. There is aroofgarden,sleepingporches,a piano and phonograph.”
In 1947, thenursingschool boasted an enrollmentof200 students.Itgraduated itsfirst male student, Andrew TruxilloJr.,in1969. In a1977article marking Touro Infirmary’s125th anniversary, The Times-Picayunereportedthatthe schoolhad graduated morethan 2,400 nurses by that year
Thenursing schoolclosed in 1987
THISWEEK,EASTERBASKETSHEREANDACROSSTHECOUNTRYWILLBEFILLED WITHSWEETTREATS from theElmer Chocolate company,based in Ponchatoula.One of thosefavorites —the HeavenlyHashEgg —celebrates its100th anniversary this year
Elmer is theoldest family-owned chocolate company in theU.S.Itwas foundedinNew Orleans in 1855 as theMiller CandyCo.,named forowner Christopher HenryMiller.WhenAugustusElmer married Miller’s daughter, thecompanynamebecame theMiller-Elmer CandyCorp.,theneventually justthe ElmerCandy Corp.,run by Elmer and hissons.
In addition to chocolate and candyproducts,the company also introduceda cornmeal-based cheese curl snackcalledCheeWees in 1936 That product wasspunoff and is nowmadebya differentlocal company, called Elmer’sFineFoods
In 1923,Elmer Chocolate acquired itsHeavenlyHashrecipefromasmall NewOrleans confectioneryshop.Itwas added to theElmer product line, whichincludestwo other localfavorites,Gold Brick andPecan Eggs.This Easter,the companysaysitproduced6.2 million eggs in allthree varieties. TheNelsonfamily hasowned ElmerChocolate since1963. Thecompany moved itsoperations to Ponchatoula in 1970.Besides Easter,italso doesa huge Valentine’sDay business and is thecountry’ssecond-largest manufacturerofheart-shapedbox chocolates.
10 GA MB IT > BES TO FN EW OR LE AN S. CO M >A PRIL 4-1 0>2 02 3 BLAKEPONTCHARTRAIN™
|askblake@gambitweekly.com
MissPatriciaElzey,presidentofthe graduatingclassatTouroInfirmary SchoolofNursing,receiveshercapin acappingceremonyatthehospital.
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A Place Where
BY JOHN STANTON| Gambit editor
IT MAYBEMUCHMALIGNED by bitter whiteRepublicansthese days, butthe idea of having a“safe space” —thatis, arefugewhere youcan not onlyrelax,but feel accepted forwho youare and actaccordingly—isan integral part of beingahuman
Infact, safe spaces have been apart of NewOrleans sinceits founding. From itsearliest pirate residents, the Crescent City hasalwaysbeenahaven forthe outcast, theshunned, theonthe-run and theunwanted. It’s even built into theveryheart of thecity’s music, thanks to thedrums of Congo Square whereenslavedAfricansand free people of colorcongregated on Sundaystomakemusic
Formanypeople,finding asafe spaceisobvious:It’stheir immediate family,their neighbors or religious community.But formanyofus, discovering aplace we belong hasnever been that easy.For whatever reason, we either don’t fitinorare made to feel like we don’t,evenbythose who maylove us
Fordecades, NewOrleanians have foundthose sortsofspacesin barroomsacrossthe city.Aslocal author L. Kasimu Harris haseloquently documentedwith hiswords and pictures,beginning in thelate1800s, bars became safe spaces forBlack residents —aplace wheretheycould laugh, dance, playmusic,interactand be completely andauthentically Black, free from theharsh stareand harsher fist of JimCrow-erawhite citizenry. Likewise,the city haslongbeen a refuge forLGBTQ people,inparticular bars like Cafe LafitteinExile,which since1933has provided an environmentinwhich they could safely be themselves.Inthe 1960s, theold QuorumClub on Esplanade wasnot onlyinterracial and opening to gay men and lesbians,itwas one of the first spaces in theSouth —and possibly muchofthe rest of the country— wheretrans people could be themselves
That instinctual drivetofindand commune with otherslikeyourself is whywehave neighborhood bars, punk bars,karaokebars and college bars.Weevenhave“waytoo drunk and wooooingtoo much tourist” bars thankstoPat O’Brien’s. So it canbe easytoforgetthatmosteverywhere else,people whodon’t fitthe straightforward, white, “traditional”American stereotype don’thave aspace to call theirown.
Buttravela shortdistanceoutside themetro area,and it gets really obvious, really quickly. In theseplaces, when arefugecomes along,the people therecherishitfiercely.
Like theIntracoastal Club in Houma.
IT MAYBEONAMAINROAD, but theIntracoastal’snondescript building canbeeasytomiss— unless,thatis, it’s whereyou’remeant to be.
IwentinMarch to seeDai Kaiju— asurfrock/punk/sci-fikaiju attack forceband— play. It wasthe first time I’deverbeenthere, butI felt likeI’d neverleft. Thestaff and patronswere outgoinglyfriendlyand it hadthe sort of inherentlylived in,comfortable feel of thebars I’ve called home my entire adult life
“Thisisthe only placeinHouma I feel safe,whereany queerpeople feel safe,” oneyoung womanexplained to me recently whileshe waited for drinks at thebar.The city’s stripof bars and restaurantsisonlya mile or twoupthe street,but shesaysmost of thetimeit’sa no-go.
“OnlyduringMardi Gras when everybodyisdownthere andnobody cares, then I’ll go to places overthere,” shesays. “But this is home.”
In itsseven-yearhistory,the bar hasbeen ararewelcoming spacefor LGBTQpeople,Black people,artsy weirdos, roughnecks,rednecks and anybodyelse whohas ahardtimefitting in in theconservative,rural bayou
parishes.The club hostsanassortmentofmusic,fromhip-hop andpunk to surf rock anddragshows.And as long as you’re of age, notabully or otherwise adick, youalwayshave a spot at thebar
“I love this place. It’s just really welcoming to everyone, everybody’snice. It’s great,”abig,bearded whiteman with hisgirlfriendexplained. It wasn’t easy, to be sure.The barhad previously been apopular hangoutfor bikers, and when Tony Bergeron and hiswifeWhitney Loupe Bergeron opened thebar in 2016, therewas friction,tosay theleast “There’d be nights when I’dbelike, ‘Ooooohboy,thisisgonna be bad,’” Bergeron said
THECOUPLEEVENTUALLY GOTTHE MESSAGEACROSS THOUGH, thankstoa combinationof patience,persistence and thegenius decisiontoensurethe collected solo worksofThe Smiths’ frontman Morrisseywereonheavy rotation. Aftersomeuncomfortable standing around questioningtheir hyper macho self-image, thebullies clearedout permanently, Bergeron says That’s nottosay thebar isn’tan equally friendly or comfortable space forold line roughnecks.Far from it Bergeron’s father,aburly,retired oil worker wholooks able to give as goodashegets, is notonlypart owner,he’sa regularfeature at the bar—and avocal supporterofits inclusivemission.
Tony Bergeron understandsthatto some,his father’s background and ap-
pearance mightsignalhe’dbe, at the least, uncomfortablearoundtrans and nonbinarypeople.But in fact, it’s just theopposite:His dad’sbasic senseof fairness and understandingmade the idea that transpeople,queer people and thevariedand assortedweirdos that hangout in thebar asimple matterofcommon sense. So much so that he’sevenbeenknown to mentorfolks whoare having atough time with their families coming to termswithwho they are.
When Hurricane Idahit the“home formisfittoys” —asNew Orleans musician and notedweirdoQuintron refers to theclub —there wasa lotof worry. Theroofwas basically destroyed, andthe building wasbadly damaged. Butthanks to theirdevoted community,the Bergeronswereable to re-open, albeit partially at first. They’restill working on theupstairs wherethe club hostsdragshows,and on occasion thebuilding’splumbing is outofwhackthanks to lingering storm-relatedissues.But Bergeron says he expects to be back to full operations in thecomingweeks.Infact, thefirst drag showssince there-openingare scheduledtotakeplace at the end of April.
At atimewhen so much of the country is seething withhatredtoward queer people,and transand nonbinary Americansinparticular, it canfeel like there’snoplace in theworld that’s safe forthem— and understandably so.That’swhatmakes notonlymaintainingbut protecting spaceslikethe Intracoastal so important
Becauseuntil therest of worldstops beingdicks,weall needa place we know we’llfindour community.
11 GA MB IT > BES TO FN EW OR LE AN S. CO M >A PRIL 4-1 0>2 02 3 Thereopeningnight attheIntracoastal Clubincludedalive performanceof “TheRockyHorror PictureShow.”
PHOTO PROVIDED BY TONY BERGERON
There’salwayschillvibesattheIntracoastalClub,evenwhenDaiKaijuismid-attack.
PHOTO BY JOHNSTANTON /GAMBIT
ANDASHOT
BY JOHN STANTON| Gambit editor
FORSEVERAL YEARSBEFOREBECOMINGTHE EDITOR OF GAMBIT, Icoveredthe U.S.-Mexican border,primarilythe westernhalfin Juarez,Nogales and Tijuana.It’sanamazing part of theworld,and hasalot moreincommon with New Orleansthanyou mightthink.Thereare tamales,of course, butalso like NewOrleans,the region has its ownmusical traditions in Corrido andBanda music. While ourregiongave theworld gumbo, ataco stand owner in Juarez purportedlyinventedthe burritoduringthe MexicanRevolution.And public artlikemuralsand ornate graffiti area vitalpart of theculturallandscapesofthese twoseemingly differentplaces.
It canget pretty hotoverthere,whatwithso much of it beinghighdesertand all. Andinbars across theregion, you’ll find Mexicans combatting it with acold,refreshingChilada.Don’t confuseitwith the MicheladamostAmericans arefamiliar with That’s made with beer,tomato juiceand lime juice overice.But theChilada favoredinborderbars from Club Quince (RIP)inJuarez to Tijuana’s Dandy del Surisa simpler, morerefreshingdrink.Takea glass,saltthe rim, drop some icein, addthe juiceof half alimeand finally beer,keepingwedgesoflime on thesidetoadd whileyou drink. It tastesamazing, andinadditiontobeing refreshingand going greatwithspicy food,itfightsscurvy and helps replenish electrolytes lost to theheat. So really it’s a health drinkwhen youthink aboutit.
TheBoilada is aLouisiana spinonthe Chilada It’s moreorlessthe same drink, butinsteadofa straight salt rim, youuse boil seasoningmixed with salt.It’sperfect fordrinkingwhile eatin’ crawfish inthe sun, Ipromise.Asfor theshot, well,havinga beer withoutone is like wearingasuitcoatwithno pants: It justdon’t make no sense.
Recipe
BOILADA
(makes six, because come on,yaknow you’re gonnadrink that many):
1six-packofbeer, preferably acheap Mexicanbeer like Tecate red, Pacifico or Corona. Alot of Mexicans like to useVictoria,but I find it to be alittletoo heavy. Regardless, nothingfancyordark.
6to8 limes
Louisiana branddry boil mix
Salt Ice
Pintglass SHOT
Onebottleoftequila IlikeFortaleza Blanco, or if Ican getit, abottleofsotol, aspirit native to thestate of Chihuahua
Cutthe limesinhalf, then cut half of thoseinto wedges.Mix equal parts salt andboilseasoning and place on asmall plate.Rub lime juicealong therim of your glass,then dredge it in boil mixuntil itscoated. Addice,then,the juiceof half alime. Pour beerover. Putlimewedgesina bowl to be added as needed when pouringmorebeer.
Pour ashot, unchilled, in aglass.Drain it.Repeat as needed
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PHOTO BY JOHN STANTON/GAMBIT
Meet Your
BY JOHN STANTON| Gambit editor
Joshua Comegys
Where’dyagotoschool/ whereyafrom?
St.Louis,Missouri
Howlonghaveyou been abartender?
25 years
What’s your favorite spirit? Besk/BäskAKA Malört.Yes, I’mserious
What’s your favorite barwhen you’re notworking?
BudRip’s. Thegreatest barinthe city barringnone.
What’s your favorite soundtrack when working ashift?
Dependsonthe shift. More mellow during theday…blues,soul, Americana More up-tempo selections at night… garage,punk, Motown
Spring cocktail recipe: Beer andshot. Current picksare Gnarly Barley Skater AidPilsner and Jeppson’sMalört.
PeterBogren
Where’dyago to school/ whereyafrom?
IgrewupinCentral Illinois,movedtoNew Orleans in 2002
Howlonghaveyou been abartender?
23 years
What’s your favorite spirit? Bourbon
What’s your favorite barwhen you’re notworking?
Finn McCool’s
What’s your favorite soundtrack when workinga shift?
Ihave akiller TalkingHeads playlist
Spring cocktail recipe: “The Seeker”
1.5ozFrigateReserve 15 Year Rum, .75oz Mathilde Pêche, .5oz El Guapo Orgeat Syrup,.5ozfresh lime, .5oz freshlemon.Shake and strain into aCollins glass.Garnish with alemon twistand Luxardocherry
Kimani Smith SNEAK YPICKLE/BAR BRINE
Where’dyagotoschool/ whereyafrom?
I’mfromNew Orleans,but Imovedaway duetoKatrina.The last school Iwentto outherethough wasMcDonough 15!
Howlonghaveyou been abartender?
I’ve been bartendingabout 3years now
What’s your favorite spirit?
Favorite spirit would be Rum, like a smooth dark rum.
What’s your favorite barwhen you’re notworking?
Igot acouple forsurebut youcan catch me at Cane &Table andBud Rips more oftenthan not.
What’s your favorite soundtrack when working ashift?
It’sgotta be ‘Get Busy’bySeanPaul. Thank me later.
Spring cocktail recipe: Here’s alittlegimletvariation of mine called “First Impression” 2ozMezcal, 3/4ozLemon,1/2oz Banana Liqueur, 1/4ozsimple (optional)but I’ddo it.Uporonthe rocksCheers!
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PUB
PEP’S
PHOTO BY JOHN STANTON/GAMBIT
CAFÉ
PALACE
PROVIDED PHOTO BY RANDYSCHMIDT
PHOTO BY JOHN STANTON/ GAMBIT
JAZZ FEST™ ©2023 MILLER BREWING CO., MILWAUKEE, WI •BEER
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28–
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EAT + DRINK
Temptingbarbecue
BBQ focuses on Louisiana flavors by Beth D’Addono |
WHENTHEBREEZEISBLOWINGJUST RIGHTBEHINDTHEODEONBUILDINGIN THECBD,the aromaofroasted meat perfumesthe air. It waftsfromthe smoker behindDevil Moon BBQat 1188 GirodSt. There, juicybriskets emerge dark andcrustywithjust theright balance betweenchewiness and tenderness
Louisiana-bornchefShannon Bingham knows hisway around smoked meat,and he believes South Louisiana doesn’tget the credit it deserves forits smoked meat traditions.
“Our food culture has smoked meat at itsheart,” says thechef, partner and pitmaster, whoopened DevilMoonBBQ just afterMardi Gras,and theadjacentBrewery SaintXonMarch 28
If house-made sausage, smoked overa fire untilthe skincrackles and snaps, isn’tbarbecue,then Bingham doesn’tknowwhatis. “Wejust don’t call it barbecue,likeTexas and Tennessee do,” he says
Creating asense of place for Louisiana’ssmokyheritageisone of theoverarching goals of both Devil Moon,the more casual eatery,and Brewery SaintX,asit-downrestaurant that serves thesame low-andslow-cooked barbecue alongwith house-made craftbeers.There’s also afullbar with plentyofwhiskey and bourbon on theshelves
DevilMoon’s name waspulled from generations of blues songs, and themenufeaturesmanytraditional items, ranging from barbecue platestohefty versions of barbecue sandwich classics
Thepulledporkhas an edgy chew, and as with allthe sandwiches,itisservedona potato roll dressedwithcoleslaw, pickles and sauce.Sandwiches come with achoiceofside, such as potato saladand coleslaw. Bingham also prepares an excellentdirty rice, and redbeans and rice, collard greensand macand cheese allooze Louisiana flavor.
Plattersare built around brisket, offeredlean or fatty, smoke-reddenedporkribs,house-made
sausage and fancy-tasting smokedturkey. Platterscomewith twosides.There arethree barbecue sauces.The house sauceisflavored withrootbeerand cane syrup. Creole mustardinforms theCarolina-style sauce,and the vinegar sauce has pickledapricots.
Starters include pimientocheese withcrackersand asmokedonion dip with chips. A $79party platter rounds up allthe meatsand sides and feedsfourto sixpeople.A recent daily specialwas a smoked roast beef po-boy topped withgravy and horseradishcream BrewerySaint
Xisperfect fora carnivore’s date night, with amenu that invitessharing. NewOrleans-based architecture firm Bell Butler designed the bright andwelcoming space, and thewalls arecoveredwith vintage photos— black-and-whiteimages of family-owned meat stores and localcamp parties.
Main dishes include roastedGulf fish with NewOrleans-style barbecuesauce,confitbeefcheekswith salsaverde and grilled porkcollar with pickledmushrooms and mustard jus. Therealso aresandwiches, salads and snacks like beef fatfries and spicy friedgreen tomatoes
Thebeerlistwill have 16 selections,withmanyGerman- and British-styledrafts.Beyondbeer, guestscan expectanarray of inventive house-madebottled cocktails, rangingfromthe classics to creative and locally inspired riffs. Therealso
arewines andanimpressiveselection of nonalcoholicofferings
TheNeighborhoodRestaurant Group, ahospitalitycompany based in Washington,D.C., knownfor its beer,isbehindboth restaurants. NRGwas foundedbyBaton Rouge native Michael Babin,soDevil Moon and BrewerySaintX markahomecoming of sortsfor him.
DevilMoon signed up forthis spring’sHogs forthe Cause, an eventthatBinghamhas supported goingbacktohis days as part of theopening team forBlueOak BBQ. “There’sarealfamily culture in barbecue,” he says
FORK +CENTER
Emaildining@gambitweekly.com
Beardshaveslist
TWONEWORLEANSRESTAURANTS
RECASTINGTHEIDEA of thechef’s tastingmenuand oneneighborhoodinstitution areinthe running forthisyear’sJamesBeard Foundation awards
Thefoundationannounced the finalistsfor this year’s awards, drawnfromthe much larger list of semifinalistsreleasedlastmonth Chef and restaurant awards winnerswill be namedduringa gala eventinChicago on June 5.
Theseawardsare closely watched across thehospitality industry and manyNew Orleans restaurants, chefsand bars have takenhomethe honorsindifferent categories
Like last year,thisslate of finalists reflects changesthe foundation conducted followinganaudit of its awardprogram,focusingondiversity,equityand accessibility.The contenders announced fornational andregional awardcategories show
abroaderrange of restaurant styles, pricerangesand cuisines
In 2022,fiveNew Orleans restaurantsand chefswerenamed finalists, andnonecame away with awards.Itwas thefirst shutoutfor NewOrleans in adecade, though chef Melissa Martin of Mosquito Supper Club wonamedia awardfor hercookbook
Here areNew Orleans finalists by category
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ShannonBinghamfocuseson traditionalbarbecueandLouisiana flavorsatDevilMoonBBQ. PHOTOBYCHERYLGERBER/GAMBIT
ChefSerigneMbayeisnominatedfor aBestEmergingChefawardfromthe JamesBeardFoundation.
? WHAT Devil Moon BBQ WHERE 1188 Girod St.; devilmoonbbq.com WHEN Lunch Tue.-Sun.
PHOTO BY SOPHIA GERMER/THE TIMES-PICAYUNE
HOW Dine-in
CHECKITOUT Barbecue drives two newCBD spots
PAGE 19
Devil Moon
18 GA MB IT > BES TO FN EW OR LE AN S. CO M > APRIL 410 > 20 23 HappyEaster! Gruet Brut $15.99 750ml y Blackletter Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon $43.99 750ml Broadside l kl Je dy Caillottes Sancerre $32.99 750ml ean-MarieReverd C ill Mediterranee BrutPrestige $15.99 750ml Rivarose d Charbonniere ChateauneufduPape $42.99 750ml Domaine de la ASKTHE EXPERTS! Our Team can help complimentany meal or party with greatrecommendations! Robert Mondavi Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon $89.99 750ml Mondav 710 VETERANS MEMORIAL BLVD. |METAIRIE |DORIGNACS.COM (504)834-8216 Open 7am-8pm Everyday E te CAPTURETHE FLAG IS BACK WIN2TICKETSTO JAZZFEST 2023 HOWTOPLAY: FOLLOW GAMBIT ON FACEBOOK: @GAMBITNEWORLEANS INSTAGRAM: @GAMBITNEWORLEANS TWITTER: @GAMBIT_GOODS BETWEEN MARCH31- APRIL 28 FOR MORE DETAILS GO TO: BESTOFNEWORLEANS.COM/FLAG NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. AP URCHASE WILL NO TINCREAE YOUR CH ANCES OF WINNING. VOID WHERE PROHIBITED BY LAW. Must be 21 to enter.For complete rules visit bestofneworleans.com/flag
EmergingChef:SerigneMbaye. The chef opened hismodernSenegalese tasting menu restaurant DakarNOLA afterhosting pop-ups andcommunal dinners forthe past fewyears
OutstandingBakery:Angelo
Brocato. Theold-school, Old-World Sicilianbakeryand gelatoparlor wasfounded in 1905 and is an integral link to thecity’sItalian heritage Theaward categoryisnew for2023. BestChef:South:AnaCastro.
Lengua Madre’stastingmenuis informed by thechef’sown lens on Mexicanculture andheritage. This regional awardcovers Alabama,Arkansas, Florida, Louisiana, Mississippiand PuertoRico. —IAN McNULTY /THE TIMES-PICAYUNE
Jazzfeast
THEREWILLBECRAWFISHMONICAAND VAUCRESSONCREOLEHOTSAUSAGE po-boysand troutBaquet. Therewill be yakameinand thegumbo with pheasant, quailand andouilleand cochon de lait po-boys.Therealso will be some newadditions to try, as well as some absent favorites.
TheNew Orleans Jazz &Heritage Festival last week shared details for events scheduledfor April 28 to May 7atthe NewOrleans Fair Grounds
Race Course&Slots.Inadditionto themusic schedule andthe news that thefestivalthisyearisgoing cashless,JazzFest announced the food vendors
Jazz Fest vendors do notchange overmuch, with most continuing withthe sameboothsand largely thesame dishes year afteryear fordecades running.But in March, Panorama Foods,maker of the popularJazzFest staplecrawfish bread,revealeditisbowingout after35years as avendor
Another onethat’smissing will be Jamila’sCafe,afamily-run Tunisian restaurantthattraditionally serves lamb tagine, merguez sausage and itsunique crawfish, zucchini,spinachbisque.
Moncef Sbaa,who runs theMaple Street restaurantwithhis wife Jamila, says thedecisiontomiss this year wasa combinationof staffing shortages andanissue at theirBroadmoor home
Road work on theirblock of VincennesPlace hasstalled out, leavingthe roadwaytornupfor months. TheJazzFesteffortissuchabig lift, thefamily uses equipmentand refrigerated storageattheir home in additiontotheir smallrestaurant.
Butgiven thestate of hisstreet, Sbaa determined he wouldn’tbe able to maneuverthe rental trucks henormally uses to move supplies forJazzFest.HesaysJamila’s intendstoreturn in 2024
African restaurantBennachin will miss this year,soits jama jama (sauteed spinach) and plantains and grilledchicken skewerswill be offthe menu.
Also notreturning is Canseco’s Market with itsCubansandwiches (though this smalllocal grocery hasa location justoutside theJazz Fest gatesthatservesthissandwich year-round).
Barbecue oystersare making a newappearance in Food Area 1 from TCABrocato,a vendor that debutedin 2022with an eggplant stack, gumboand street corn,all dishes returningin2023.
Onevendor that missed the 2022 Jazz Fest, Palmer’s Jamaican Cuisine,will return this year with its Jamaicanchicken,Caribbean fish, currychicken patties andsteamed vegetableand rice plates
Another returningvendorthat missed 2022 is CCICatering(previouslycalledCrescentCatering)
This year it willserve aduckand shrimp pasta andaturducken po-boy(in placeofits previous Cajunduckpo-boy)
Othersthatmissed2022and are also absent for2023are:Fatty’s Cracklin’(cracklings and sweet potato chips), Creole LunchHouse (Creole stuffedbreads) and Marie’s SugarDumplings (sweet potato turnovers). Creole LunchHouse intendstoreturnin2024. So does Marie’sSugar Dumplings,whose ownerYolandaCasby says sheisin treatmentfor cancer andisfocused on her health this year
“JazzFest understands, and they’rebehindme,”Casby says.“It’s toomuchfor me to do thewhole thingthisyear.”
WarehouseDistrictrestaurant
Carmobecame avendor last year, and this year returnswithtwo booths: one forshrimp, fish andvegetable tacos, and asecondinthe Cultural Exchange Village, servingfoods aligned with Jazz Fest’s celebration of Puerto Ricanculture this year
Forthatbooth,Carmo is partnered with FOWLMOUTH,a local pop-up that drawsonPuertoRican street and beachfood traditions
They’llserve trifongo withpork, shrimp or vegetablesand pastelillo savory hand pies
Onenew vendor this year is Keyala’sPralines, bringing key cake with bourbon pecansauce, chocolatemocha cupcakes and mixed nutbrittle
Owner Keyala Marshallservedsamples at theJazzFestpress preview.
“I’mexcited andterrified,but mostly excited,”she says.“I’ve done festivalsbefore, butthisisthe major leagues.” —IAN
McNULTY
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WINE OF THE WEEK
AlexFlores
Brewer by Will Coviello
ALEXFLORESSTARTEDHOMEBREWINGWHILEHEWASINSCHOOLATLSU
Afterseveral yearsworking at breweries in SanDiego,hemoved to NewOrleans,where he worked at NOLABrewing Companyand UrbanSouth BrewingCompany. He’s nowthe head brewer for Brewery SaintX,which opened at 1100 GirodSt. last week.For information,visitbrewerysaintx.com.
Howdidyouget intohomebrewing?
ALEX FLORES: Istarted homebrewingincollege andfellinlove withthe creative side of it,using differentingredients—prettymuch theway people getintocooking.
La Crema Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc
Vibrant,and exotic, thiswine combines fresharomasof citrusbloom,lemon grass, andpassion fruit, with subtle wetstone,and flint. In themouth,flavorsofruby grapefruit, KIWI,and white peach areaccompanied by tropical notesofmango and guava.Barrelfermentation brings volume,and texture to thewinewhile crisp,and vibrantacidity drives ajuicy lingeringfinish.
DISTRIBUTED BY
Iwas always theone seeking outdifferent beers. At that time, it wasreally hardtofindthem in Louisiana. We were behindthe curveoncraftbeer, except for Abita. I’dfindthese random beers, and Iwas like,weshould tryto makeone.SoI boughta little kit and we did it on afriend’sstovetop. Thefirst twobatches were terrible,but we drank them anyway Eventually we gotitdownand startedhavingfun exploringingredients. Thefirst beer Imade wasan Englishpale ale.Thenwestarted SierraNevadaPaleAle clones and messingaroundwithhoppier styles.The first out-of-the-box beer Imade wasachocolate rosemaryporter. Iactually hadgoneto afarmers’ market in BatonRouge and therewas achocolatier who had theseunbelievable rosemary chocolates. Iwas like,Ishould replicate this into abeer, so Ibought some baker’schocolate and got some freshrosemaryand started playing around.People were like,I don’t knowifIwanttodrink that Butitwas cool experiencing these herbs and spices in abeerwiththis really chocolatey character.
Whatwasitlikegoingpro?
F: AfterLSU,Imovedout to San Diegotosee if Iliked workingin thebeerindustry.Likea maniac,I called everybrewery in thecounty. That waslike45breweries.I got thesameanswerfromalot of people,which wasyou don’thave anyprofessional experience,and thereare alot of experienced people outhere. This one guywho wasopening up this very small
brewery said Ican’t pay you, butifyou want to volunteerand getsome experience,I would be happytoteach you. I took it andwas doing everything from recipe designtocleaning kegs. They were makingtrue West CoastIPA,your more bitter style. They werefamousfor their brownale,which is not averypopularstyle
They did alot of hoppier styles,IPA,double IPA, a brownale andtheydid a saisonwith goji berries
That waspopular. That’s whereIdeveloped my first recipe that Iput outtomarket. It wasa jasminesaison. It wasa greatexperience.
Then IwenttoMission Brewery in downtown SanDiego and worked therefrom2012to2016, when Imovedbackto NewOrleans.
Ihad been lookingfor away to getbacktoNew Orleans.NOLA Brewingwas hiring and Ireached outtothem.I became acellar managerfor NOLA.I wasmanaging fermentation andrunning theirsour beer program foraboutayearand ahalf— so allthe funkystuff and thebarrel-aged program.Wewon a silver medal at theWorld Beer Cup It’sone of thetwo most prestigious beer awards.Wewon forSauvage. IwenttoUrban Southtodo research anddevelopment brewing. They broughtmeintohelp diversifythe portfolio. We came up with Lime Cucumber Gose and Paradise Park
Thepandemic wasaninteresting time. We were releasing sixbeers aweek.I thinkI made250 unique recipesthatyear.
Whatareyoubrewing atBrewerySaintX?
F: We aredoing moreclassic styles We have some buzzword beers, like hazy IPAs and fruitedsours.But we arebrewing alot of lagerand Englishstyles.Weare doingsome classicsyou don’tsee everyday,like true-to-styleGerman beers. We have cask beer,which you don’t seemuchinNew Orleans.It’s atraditional English hand-pump stylebeer. It’s naturallyfermented. It’s gotnaturalcarbonation,and we’reserving it at proper temperature.Startingoff,we’ll have an ordinarybitterand adarkmild on cask.Ordinarybitterisbrewed witha malt that’s alittlesweeter than typicalpale malt, alittle
nutty. It’s brewed with Challenger hops, so it hasthe classic English earthy,grassy, aromaticcharacter. Whenever people hear ordinary bitter,theythink it’s goingtobe bitter,but it’s actually not. It’s balanced.It’searthy, fruity.There’sa nice floral characterfromthe hops There’sbread and biscuitnotes, like amultigraincharacter.
Thedarkmildiscreamy, and it’s gotnotes of dark chocolate It’s gota little bitofroast coffee character. It’s really light. It’s only 3.5% (ABV). That one leans heavy toward themalty side.
We’regoing to have alot of properGerman beers. We have thesehorizontalmaturationtanks. So oncethe beer is done fermenting, we remove amajorityofthe yeast and putthem in thesetanks to properly lageratcold temperaturesfor alongtime. They develop like alager should.A lotofbig brewers age theirbeers foreight to 12 weeksbeforetheyrelease them to getthatclean, crisp character. That’s what we want to replicate, thetrueGermanway of brewing thesebeers, letting them rest and settle
Everything we’vebrewedsofar is on thelighter side with spring and summer in mind.Weare focusing on thelagersand lighter styles,low ABVs andsessionablebeers.We have amilkstout with coffeeand mole spices with vanillabeanand cacaonibs.Inthe colder months, we’llthrow in morestoutsand maybea barley wine.
20 GA MB IT > BES TO FN EW OR LE AN S. CO M >A PRIL 4-1 0>2 02 3 3COURSEINTERVIEW
PROVIDED PHOTO BY RANDYSCHMIDT
Out 2Eat is an indexofGambit contract advertisers. Unlessnoted, addresses arefor NewOrleans and all accept credit cards. Updates: Email willc@gambitweekly.com or call (504) 483-3106.
8FreshFoodAssassin — 1900 N. Claiborne Ave.,(504) 224-2628; Instagram, @8freshfoodassassin Chef MannyJanuary’smenuincludesgrilled lamb chops, T-bone steaks,salmon, crab cakes, deep friedribs,fried chickenand seafood-loadedoysters.Noreservations.Deliveryavailable.Lunchand
dinner Tue.-Sun $$
Acorn— 12 HenryThomas Drive, (504) 218-5413;acornnola.com— Thecafe at theLouisiana Children’sMuseumhas blackenedshrimptacos topped with arugula,radish,pineapple-mango salsa and cilantro-lime sauce.Noreservations
breakfastand lunch Wed.-Sun $$
Angelo Brocato’s 214N.Carrollton Ave.,(504) 486-1465;angelobrocatoicecream.com This sweetshop serves itsown gelato, spumoni, Italianice, cannolis,biscotti,fig cookies, tiramisu, macaroonsand more.Lunchand dinner
Tue.-Sun $
Annunciation— 1016 Annunciation St., (504) 568-0245;annunciationrestaurant.com ThemenuhighlightsGulf seafoodindisheslikeGulfDrum Yvonne, served with brownbuttersauce with mushrooms andartichoke hearts Reservations recommended.Dinner
Thu.-Mon $$$
Banana Blossom— 5009th St.,Gretna, (504)500-0997; 504bananablossom com JimmyCho’s Thai dishes include smoked pork belly andporkmeatballs in lemongrass broth with egg, greenonion,cilantroand crispy garlic. Reservations accepted forlarge parties except weekends.Deliveryavailable
Lunchand dinner Tue.-Sat $$
TheBlue Crab Restaurantand Oyster Bar— 118HarborViewCourt,Slidell, (985)315-7001; 7900 LakeshoreDrive, (504)284-2898;thebluecrabnola.com
Basinbarbecue shrimp areserved overcheesegrits witha cheese biscuit Outdoor seatingavailable.Noreservations.Lakeview: lunchand dinner
Tue.-Sun.Slidell: lunchFri.-Sat.,dinner
Wed.-Sun $$
Broussard’s— 819Conti St.,(504) 5813866;broussards.com Rainbowtrout amandineisservedwith tassoand corn macquechouxand Creole meuniere sauce.Reservations recommended
Outdoor seatingavailable.Dinner Wed.-
Sat.,brunch Sun. $$$
Cafe Normandie— Higgins Hotel, 480 Andrew HigginsBlvd.,(504) 528-1941; higginshotelnola.com/dining Themenu combines classic Frenchdishes and Louisiana itemslikecrabbeignetswith herb aioli. No reservations.Breakfast
andlunch daily $$
TheCommissary — 634OrangeSt., (504)274-1850; thecommissarynola. com Thecentral kitchenfor Dickie Brennan restaurants offers grab-and-go dishes anda dine-in menu witha house-smokedturkey breastsandwich withbacon,tomato jam, herbed cream cheese,arugula andherbvinaigrette on honeyoat bread. No reservations. Outdoor seatingavailable.LunchTue.Sat. $$
Curio— 301Royal St.,(504) 717-4198; curionola.com ThecreativeCreole menu includes blackenedGulfshrimp served with chicken andandouillejambalaya.Reservations accepted.Lunch and dinner daily $$
$ —average dinner entrée under $10 $$ —$11-$20
$$$ —$20-up
Desire Oyster Bar— RoyalSonesta NewOrleans,300 Bourbon St.,(504) 586-0300; sonesta.com/desireoysterbar— Themenu highlightsGulfseafood in Creole dishes.Char-grilled oysters aretopped withParmesan and herbs Reservations recommended.Breakfast, lunch anddinnerdaily $$
Dickie Brennan’sBourbon House
144Bourbon St.,(504) 522-0111; bourbonhouse.com Theseafood restaurant hasaraw bar anda largeselection of bourbon.Redfish is served withlemon buerreblanc.Reservations accepted
Lunchand dinner daily $$$
DickieBrennan’sSteakhouse
716Iberville St.,(504) 522-2467;dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com A6-ounce filetmignon is served withflash-fried oysters, creamedspinach, Pontalba potatoes and bearnaise.Reservations recommended. Dinner Mon.-Sat $$$
DragonflyCafe— 530Jackson Ave., (504) 544-9530; dragonflynola.com
Thecasual cafe offers breakfast plates,waffles,salads, coffeedrinksand more.Braised ribisservedongreens withcornbread.Deliveryavailable Reservations accepted.Breakfast and lunch Wed.-Sat $$
El Pavo Real 4401 S. BroadAve., (504) 266-2022;elpavorealnola.com Pescado
Vera Cruzisasauteed Gulf fish topped withtomatoes, olives,onion and capers and served withriceand string beans. Themenualso includes tacos, quesadillas,enchiladasand more.Outdoor seatingavailable.Noreservations.Lunch and early dinner Tue.-Sat $$
Felix’s Restaurant &OysterBar — 739 Iberville St.,(504) 522-4440;7400 Lakeshore Drive, (504)304-4125; felixs. com Louisiana oystersare served raw or char-grilled with garlic, Parmesan and breadcrumbs. Themenuincludesseafood platters,crawfishetouffee, po-boys and more.Noreservations.Lunchand
dinnerdaily $$
Frey Smoked Meat Co. 4141 Bienville St.,Suite 110, (504)488-7427; freysmokedmeat.com The barbecue spot serves pulled pork, ribs,brisket, sausages and more. Friedporkbelly poppers aretossedinpepperjelly glaze.Noreservations.Lunchand
dinner daily $$
FrootOrleans 2438 Bell St.,Suite B, (504)233-3346; frootorleans.com
Thereare freshfruit platters and smoothie bowlssuchasa strawberry shortcakeand more usingpineapple, berries,citrus and more.Noreservations.Outdoor seatingavailable
Breakfast andlunch daily $$
Juan’sFlyingBurrito — 515Baronne St., (504)529-5825; 2018 Magazine St., (504) 569-0000; 4724 S. Carrollton Ave.,(504) 486-9950;8140Oak St., (504)897-4800; juansflyingburrito.com TheFlying Burritoincludessteak,shrimp, chicken, cheddarjackcheese, black beans,rice, guacamole andsalsa.The menu also has tacos,quesadillas and nachos. Outdoor seatingavailable.Noreservations.Lunch and dinner Thu.-Tue. $$
Katie’sRestaurant— 3701 Iberville St., (504)488-6582;katiesinmidcity.com
ACajun Cuban hasroasted pork,ham, cheese and picklesonbutteredbread
TheBoudreauxpizza is topped with cochon de lait,spinach, onionsand
garlic.Deliveryavailable.Reservations accepted forlarge parties. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun $$
Kilroy’s Bar— Higgins Hotel, 480 Andrew Higgins Blvd., (504)528-1941; higginshotelnola.com/dining— Thebar menu includes sandwiches,saladsand flatbreads,including onetoppedwith peach, prosciutto,stracciatella cheese, arugula andpecans. No reservations
Dinner Wed.-Sat $$
Legacy Kitchen’s CraftTavern— 700Tchoupitoulas St.,(504) 613-2350; legacykitchen.com— Themenu includes oysters, flatbreads,burgers,sandwiches,saladsand more.ANOLA StyleGrits Bowl is topped with bacon,cheddar anda poachedegg Reservations accepted.Breakfast, lunch anddinnerdaily $$
LegacyKitchen Steak&Chop 91 Westbank Expressway, Gretna,(504) 513-2606;legacykitchen.com Themenu includesfiletsmignons, bone-in rib-eyes and topsirloins,as well as burgers, salads andseafood dishes.Reservations accepted.Outdoor seatingavailable
Lunchand dinner Mon.-Sat $$ MartinWineCellar— 714Elmeer Ave., Metairie,(504) 896-7350;3827Baronne St., (504)894-7444; martinwine.com— Thedeliservessandwiches and salads such as theSena, withchicken,raisins, bluecheese, pecansand Tabasco pepperjelly vinaigrette.Noreservations
Lunchdaily $$
Mikimoto — 3301 S. Carrollton Ave., (504)488-1881; mikimotosushi.com TheSouth Carrollton roll includestuna tataki,avocado and snow crab.The menu also has noodle dishes,teriyaki and more.Reservations accepted Delivery available.LunchSun.-Fri., dinnerdaily $$
Mosca’s— 4137 Highway90West, Westwego,(504) 436-8950;moscasrestaurant.com This family-style eateryservesItaliandishesand specialties includingchicken alagrande and baked oysters Mosca. Reservations accepted DinnerWed.-Sat. Cash only $$$
Mother’s Restaurant— 401Poydras St.,(504) 523-9656;mothersrestaurant net— This counter-servicespotserves po-boys,jambalaya, crawfish etouffee, redbeans andriceand more.Delivery available. No reservations.Breakfast, lunchand dinner daily $$
Neyow’sCreoleCafe— 3332Bienville St.,(504) 827-5474;neyows.com The menu includes redbeans withfried chickenorporkchops, as well as seafood platters,po-boys,char-grilled oysters, salads andmore. No reservations.Lunch daily,dinner Mon.-Sat., brunchSun $$
Nice Guys Bar&Grill 7910 Earhart Blvd., (504) 302-2404;niceguysbarandgrillnola.com Char-grilled oystersare toppedwith cheese.The menualso includeswings,quesadillas,burgers, sandwiches,salads, seafood pasta and more.Noreservations.Lunchdaily, dinner Mon.-Sat $$$
Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar&Bistro 720OrleansAve., (504)523-1930; orleansgrapevine.com Thewine bar’smenuincludesCreolepasta with shrimp and andouilleoverpappardelle in tomato creamsauce.Reservations acceptedfor largeparties.Outdoor seatingavailable.Dinner Thu.-Sun $$
Palace Cafe — 605 Canal St.,(504) 523-1661;palacecafe.com— The contemporaryCreole menuincludes signature crabmeatcheesecaketopped withmushrooms andCreole meuniere
sauce.Outdoor seatingavailable Reservations recommended.Lunch
Wed.-Fri., dinner Wed.-Sun., brunch
Sat.-Sun $$$
PeacockRoom— KimptonHotel
Fontenot,501 Tchoupitoulas St.,(504) 324-3073; peacockroomnola.com— Blacklentilvadouvancurry comeswith roastedtomatoes,mushrooms and basmati rice.Reservations accepted.Dinner
Wed.-Mon., brunchSun $$
Rosie’sonthe Roof— HigginsHotel, 480AndrewHigginsBlvd.,(504) 5281941;higginshotelnola.com/dining— The rooftopbar hasa menuofsandwiches, burgers andsmall plates.Noreservations.Dinnerdaily $$
Tableau — 616St. PeterSt.,(504) 934-3463;tableaufrenchquarter.com
Pasta bouillabaissefeaturessquid ink mafaldine,littleneckclams,Gulf shrimp,squid,seafood broth, rouilleand herbed breadcrumbs.Outdoorseating available.Reservations recommended
DinnerWed.-Sun.,brunch Thu.-Sun $$$
Tacklebox— 817Common St.,(504) 8271651;legacykitchen.com— Theseafood restaurantservesoysters,seafood, burgers,salads and more.Redfish St Charles is served withgarlic-herbbutter, asparagus, mushroomsand crawfish cornbread.Reservations accepted
Breakfast,lunch anddinner daily $$
Tavolino Pizza&Lounge— 141 Delaronde St.,(504) 605-3365; tavolinonola.com— Themenu features thin-crust pizzas,salads, meatballs andmore. A Behrman Hwy. pizzaistopped with pork belly,caramel,carrots,radishes,jalapenosand herbs.Noreservations.Outdoor seatingavailable.Dinner Tue.-Sat $$
Theo’s Neighborhood Pizza— 1212 S. ClearviewParkway,Elmwood,(504) 733-3803;2125Veterans MemorialBlvd., Metairie,(504) 510-4282;4024Canal St., (504)302-1133; 4218 Magazine St., (504)894-8554; 70488 Highway21, Covington, (985)234-9420;theospizza com AMarilynnPotaSupreme pie is toppedwithmozzarella, pepperoni, sausage,hamburger,mushrooms, bellpeppersand onions.Therealso aresalads, sandwiches and more. Delivery available. Lunchand dinner
Tue.-Sat $
Tito’s Ceviche& Pisco— 1433 St. CharlesAve., (504) 354-1342;5015 Magazine St., (504)267-7612; titoscevichepisco.com Peruvian lomo saltado featuresbeefsauteed with onions, tomatoes,cilantro, soysauce andpisco, served withfried potatoes andrice. Outdoor seatingavailable on Magazine Street. Delivery available.Reservations accepted.Lunch anddinner Mon.-Sat., brunchSun $$$
TheVintage — 3121 Magazine St., (504) 324-7144;thevintagenola.com The menu includes beignets,small plates, sandwiches andflatbreads. Theveggie pressed sandwich hasavocado,onions, arugula,red pepper,pepper jack cheese and lemon. No reservations.Delivery and outdoorseating available.Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily $$
ZhangBistro— 1141 DecaturSt.,(504) 826-8888;zhangbistronola.com
Themenu includes Chinese and Thai dishes.The Szechuan HotWok offers a choiceofchicken,beef, shrimp or tofu withonions, bellpeppers,cauliflower, jalapenosand spicySichuan sauce
Reservations accepted.Lunchand dinnerThu.-Tue. $$
21 GA MB IT > BES TO FN EW OR LE AN S. CO M >A PRIL 4-1 0>2 02 3 COMPLETE LISTINGSAT
WWW.BESTOFNEWORLEANS.COM
OUTTOEAT
Animal of theMonth: Audubon’sspidermonkeys enjoyvisitorsand always eattheir fruits andveggies
By Amanda McElfresh amcelfresh@theadvocate.com
If youhearthe AudubonZoo staff talking aboutblondesand brunettes, there’sa good chance they arediscussingthe spider monkeysthatcallthe zoohome. Sixspider monkeysliveatthe zoo, with threehaving darkerfur(akathebrunettes)andthreewith lighter fur(akathe blondes).The reasonfor thedifferentfur colors is largelyunknown, although researchersbelieve it maybe becauseofgeneticsand sunlight exposure.
Wespoke toDominiqueFleitas,assistant curatorofthe LouisianaSwamp Exhibit andJaguarJungleatAudubon Zoo, to learn more aboutthe spidermonkeys andwhat is beingdonetoprotect them in thewild.
Tell me about thespidermonkeys at Audubon.
Brockisour only male.Heis30years old andhas livedheresince 2018.The other five arefemales.Topaz is also 30 yearsold and haslived here since1997. Tazo is 36 years oldand haslived here since2010. Teresa andTille areboth27years oldand have livedheresince 1997.Tea is ouryoungestat 17 yearsold andhas livedheresince 2010
Howwould youdescribetheir personalities?
Thebrunettes areverychill and easygoing.Theyenjoytrainingandspending time with theirkeepers. Theblondes are always checkingthingsout andare alittle more willing to getintomonkeyantics. Tea willsometimes start doingalarm calls, whichare high-pitched callstoget theother monkeys’ attention,eitherfor no reasonat allorfor verytrivial reasons.Whenthat happens, Brockwillcomerunningtotake care of things. Sinceheisthe only male,he is thedominantand protective one.
What kind of food do they eat?
Theirdiets includegreens, fruits and vegetables.Wechangeit daytoday so they don’t eat thesamethingall thetime. Oneday,theymight getalot of spinach. Thenextday,itmight be leafygreenslike kale andromaine.It’susually arotation of things like greenbeans,corn, carrots, apples,pears,peas, sweetpotatoesand peppers. We also give them specially formulated biscuits with protein, vitamins andnutrients.Wealsohave high value itemsfor them like yogurt,peanutbutter or plainCheerios. Those areusedfor enrichment or training.
What kind of training does the Audubonstaff conductwiththe spider monkeys?
We do alot of activities that letthem participateintheirmedical treatment. Beingable to askthem to come to us andstand on ascale is reallyimportant becauseweliketo tracktheir weights. Brockinparticular likestosteal food, so we make sure hisweightisnot getting toohigh. We also work with them on receivinghandinjections. Everyanimal heregetsabig physical at leasteverytwo years. Whenever possible,weworkwith them to take an injectiontomakethat processeasier.
Howwouldyoudescribetheirhabitat at Audubon?
They have an island in Jaguar Jungle with palm treesand bigcolumns that are designed to look like aMayan temple. This allows us to change theconfigurationof theirropes everysooften so it doesn’t get boring for them.There is alittlewater in front of thelagoonand they like to hang outatthe edge.Likemostprimates, spider monkeysare afraid of water, so they will drinkthe waterorput twofeetinand leave twofeetonthe land,but not submerge
themselves.Their habitat also includesa building with multiple dens. They go into that at nightquite abit andsometimes during theday.During badweather, we’ll movethemin there.
Theirhabitat is actually gettingan upgrade. We’ve been working hard on erosioncontroland theexpansion will aidwiththatand providethem agoodarea to explore.
Dothespidermonkeysenjoyvisitors?
They don’t trytoget attention, but they like knowingtheyare beingwatched andpeople areinterestedinthem. If a biggroup stopsbythem andthenwalks away,they’ll look in theirdirection to seewheretheywent. Whenever we go for an extended period of time without visitors, like afterahurricane,we’ll see them peekingaroundalot becausethey arelooking forpeople.
What is thestatusof spider monkeys in thewildand what kind of conservation work is Audubondoing in this area?
They areconsidered endangered.Their habitatsare experiencing deforestation anddegradation,sotheyare feelingthose effects.HereatAudubon,weare fortunate
topartner with theMax Planck Institute on aproject to do regularstudies to see how primatesusetheirnativehabitats,whatthey areforagingfor,how theirdiets change as they lose land,and howtheyare utilizing theirspace.Thathelps us understandwhat we candowithour ownspacesand share themessage more broadlyabout preserving those spaces in thewild.
Want to visit?
Thespringisagreat time of year to visit thespider monkeysatAudubon Zoo. The Zooisopendaily from 10 a.m. to 5p.m.from nowthrough Labor Day.Checkaudubonzoo. comfor information on tickets, free parking andplanning your Zootrip.
The best value if you plan on visiting theZoo more than once or areplanningon visiting AudubonAquariumand Audubon Insectarium laterthisyear, is purchasing an AudubonMembership. In addition to unlimitedvisits, Membersenjoy discounts at Audubongiftshops,concessions, specialeventssuchasZoo-To-Do and Zoo-To-Dofor Kids,Zoo Camps, and much more.For afull list of benefitsand to findout howyou canbecome amember, visitaudubonmembership.com andsave
22 GA MB IT > BES TO FN EW OR LE AN S. CO M > APRIL 410 > 20 23
Thisarticle is brought to youby Audubon Nature Institute
entity with aU.S.tour, during which they’realso screening their first featurefilm, “Triple Trouble.” Thepurposefully low-budgetfilm followsa former priest-turnedplumber whogetssuckedinto aconspiracy involving afungus that could threaten humanity.The ResidentsstopinNew Orleans at 7p.m.Wednesday,April 5, at theBroadside.Tickets are$25 advancevia broadsidenola.com and $28day of theshow.
XiuXiu
EXPERIMENTALROCKBANDXIU XIUHASNEVERSHIEDAWAYFROM SHOCKINGTHELISTENER —either sonically or lyrically— but always with purpose, as away to process life’s traumas. On its recently released newrecord, “IgnoreGrief,” thebanddraws from both real-lifetragedies and imagined scenarios.Xiu Xiuplays Gasa Gasa at 9p.m Sunday,April 9. Ticketsare $18 via ticketweb.com
Rory Scovel
THECOMEDIANANDACTORHAS RELEASEDHISOWNCOMEDY
SPECIALS and hisown series “Robbie.” He also wrotefor “The Eric AndreShow.”Heperforms standupat8 p.m. Friday,April 7, at TheHowlin’ Wolf.Findtickets viathehowlinwolf.com.
Hell
HELL,THESOLOPROJECTBYOREGONBASEDMULTI-INSTRUMENTALIST
M.S.W.,ISAPTLYNAMED:devastatingdoom metalthatmarches thelistener into hopeless,unrelentingdespair. Hell playswith NewOrleans doom band Fauns at 9p.m.Wednesday,April 5, at Gasa Gasa.Ticketsare $15 viaticketweb.com
Evenings With Enrique
THEWEDNESDAYEVENINGCONCERTSERIESINTHENEWORLEANS
BOTANICALGARDEN begins with harpist PatriceFisherand a smallensemble on April 5. The series highlightsLatin sounds, in part in honor of itsnamesake, sculptorEnrique Alferez,whose work is spread throughout City Park.Admissiontothe garden is free forLouisiana residents on Wednesdays courtesy of the HelisFoundation. Theeventsare 5p.m.-7:30 p.m. Wednesdays. Visitneworleanscitypark.org for informationonthe garden
Built to Spill
BUILTTOSPILLJUMPEDINTOTHE
INDIEROCKSCENEFROMIDAHO in the early 1990s andhas been through numerous changesoverthe years. Frontman DougMartsch is
ARTS&ENTERTAINMENT
thesole remainingoriginal member,and nowchangesthe lineup around him, which included aBrazilian backing groupon tour in SouthAmerica.Inthe currentcoedlineup, he’s joined by MelanieRadford andTeresa Esguerra.Disco Doom andOrua also performat8 p.m. Monday, April 10,atJoy Theater. Find ticketsvia thejoytheater.com.
LPOatthe Jazz Museum
COMPOSERANDLOUISIANA
PHILHARMONICORCHESTRACREATIVEPARTNERCOURTNEYBRYAN hascurated and will host aconcert of her ownworks andpieces by NewOrleans bassistBrian QuezergueonThursday, April 6, at theNew Orleans Jazz Museum “SoundsofFreedom”will feature a string quintet ofLPO players alongwithpoetChuck Perkins. Theconcertbeginsat6p.m., and ticketsare $25general admission, $35reservedand $10students at lpomusic.com
SwingtimeinSpringtime
THENORTHSHORETRADITIONAL MUSICSOCIETYPRESENTSACONCERT featuringtrumpeterWendell Brunious,percussionist Jason Marsalis,banjoistDon Vappie, clarinetistBen Redwineand bassistRichardMoten.At7p.m.
Thursday, April 6, at theGreater CovingtonCenterFuhrmann Auditorium.GAtickets$20 viabontempstix.com
Harry Mayronne with Yvette Voelker
PIANISTHARRYMAYRONNEHASBEEN HOLDINGDOWNWEDNESDAYNIGHTS at TheBombayClub, performingwitha featuredvocalisteach week.OnWednesday,April 5, he’ll be joined by YvetteVoelker, oneofthe co-founders of the trad jazz vocalist groupThe PfisterSisters.Music starts at 8p.m.inthe club at thePrince Conti Hotel.
‘MusicwithChanging Parts’
AGROUPOFNEWORLEANSMUSICIANSONSATURDAY,APRIL8,will presenta programofworks by minimalistcomposerPhilip Glass,anchored by hisnow-rarely performed “Music with Changing Parts.”The concertalso will featureGlass’ “Music in Similar Motion”and anew Glass-inspired work,“MusicinSweet Motion,” composedbymusician and concertorganizer Neal Todten Theconcert beginsat8 p.m. at Happyland Theater. Advance ticketsare $15via eventbrite.com and $20atthe door
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MUSIC
FOR COMPLETE MUSIC LISTINGS AND MORE EVENTS TAKING PLACE IN THE NEW ORLEANS AREA,VISIT CALENDAR.GAMBITWEEKLY.COM
To learn moreabout adding your event to the music calendar,please email listingsedit@gambitweekly.com
TUESDAY4
BAMBOULAS —504 Goodies, 1:15 pm; TiffanyPollock and Co., 5:30 pm; Andy J. Forest BluesBand,9 pm
BLUE NILE —Water Seed, 8pm
ELLISMARSALIS CENTERFOR MUSIC
—Freddie Blue &the Friendship CircleBand, 6:30 pm
FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB
—Richard“Piano”Scott, 12:30pm; Colin MyersBand,5 pm;Fritzel'sAll Star Band,8 pm
NEWORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM —ArrowheadJazzBand,2 pm
PRESERVATIONHALL —Preservation
All-Stars,5.6:15, 7:30 &8:45pm
ROGERSMEMORIAL CHAPEL AT TULANE UNIVERSITY —Versipel NewMusic PresentsChaos Cultures, 8pm
SIDNEY'S SALOON —The Amazing Henrietta, 6:30 pm
THERABBITHOLE —Rebirth Band,10pm
WEDNESDAY5
BAMBOULAS —Giselle Anguizola, 1:15 pm;Swingin’ withJohnSaavedra, 5:30 pm Roule and theQueen,9pm
BLUE NILE —New Breed Brass Band,9pm
FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB —Richard“Piano”Scott, 12:30 pm; Bourbon StreetStars,5pm; Fritzel's AllStarBand,8 pm
GASA GASA —Hellwith Fauns,9 pm
LAFAYETTESQUAREPARK —The Suffers, Trumpet Mafia, 5pm
MADAMEVIC'S —Britney Chantae & Tres,8pm
NEW ORLEANSJAZZMUSEUM —NaydjaCoJoe, 2pm
PRESERVATIONHALL —Preservation
All-Stars feat.Branden Lewis, 5, 6:15, 7:30 &8:45pm
SIBERIA —Turquoise, Meeka, Hey Thanks!, 9pm
THEBOMBAYCLUB —Harry Mayronne and YvetteVoelker,8 pm
THEBROADSIDE —Residents,7pm
THEJAZZPLAYHOUSE —Funkin'ItUp withBig Sam, 7:30 pm
THEPARISHATHOUSE OF BLUES Church Of TheCosmicSkull,7 pm
THURSDAY6
BAMBOULAS —Sigridand theZig Zags, 1:15 pm;CristinaKaminisand theMix,5:30pm; Wolfe John'sBlues Band,9 pm
BEAUREGARD-KEYES HOUSE —Betty Shirley, 6pm
BLUE NILE —WhereY'atBrass Band, 9pm
FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB
—Richard“Piano”Scott, 12:30pm; DoyleCooperBand,2:30pm; John SaavedraTrio,6 pm;Fritzel's AllStar Band,8 pm
GASA GASA —Early DayMiners, 9pm
GREATERCOVINGTONCENTER
FUHRMANNAUDITORIUM
Wendell Brunious, JasonMarsalis, RichardMoten,Ben Redwineand Don Vappie,7pm
HOUSE OF BLUES —Peter Murphy, Adrian Belew, Scrote:Celebrating DavidBowie,7 pm
JOYTHEATER —Big Wild,7:30 pm
MADAME VIC'S —Gloria Turrini,8 pm
PAVILION OF THETWO SISTERS
John Boutté,6pm
PEACOCKROOM, HOTELFONTENOT
—DaLovebirds with Robin Barnes andPat Casey,8pm
PRESERVATIONHALL —Preservation
All-Stars feat.WendellBrunious, 5, 6:15,7:30 &8:45pm
REPUBLIC NOLA —Subdocta,10pm
SIBERIA —Julie Odell, Gina Leslie, SabineMcCalla,9 pm
THEJAZZPLAYHOUSE —Brass-AHolics,7:30 pm
THEPARISHATHOUSE OF BLUES
Saliva, 7pm
ZONY MASH BEERPROJECT Flow Tribe, 8pm
FRIDAY7
BAMBOULAS —St. Julien xBand,11am; Walker andthe 3Finger Swingers, 2:15 pm;Les GetrexNCreole Cooking, 6:30 pm;Bettis+3rdDegree
Brass Band,10pm
BLUE NILE —The Caesar Brothers,7 pm
BLUE NILEBALCONY ROOM
TrumpetSlim&Brass Flavor,10pm; KermitRuffins and theBarbecue Swingers,11pm
FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB
Richard“Piano”Scott, 12:30 pm; SamFriend Band,2:30pm; LeeFloyd andThunderbolt Trio, 6 pm;Fritzel's AllStarBand,9 pm
GASA GASA —Mikewith Slauson Malone 1, Sideshow,9 pm
HIDEAWAY DEN&ARCADE
Blackwater Canalw/Sinner's Revival &Nothing Sacred,8 pm
HOUSE OF BLUESNEW ORLEANS
LornaShore, 7:30 pm
MADAME VIC'S —The EmeraldTrio, 4 pm;Kitty Baudoin,8 pm
NEW ORLEANSJAZZNATIONAL
HISTORICALPARKINDUTCH
ALLEY —SidikiConde andWowo
Souakoli, 2pm
PRESERVATIONHALL —Preservation
All-Starsfeat. MarkBraud,5,6:15, 7:30 &8:45pm
PUBLIC BELTATHILTONRIVERSIDE
PhilMelancon, 8pm
REPUBLIC NOLA —Ghengar, 11 pm
SIBERIA —EYEHATEGOD, Goatwhore, Abysmal Lord, Morbid Torment, 7pm
SIBERIA LOUNGE —Helen Gillet,9 pm
SIDNEY'S SALOON —DarkLounge
Ministries,7 pm
THEGOAT —Paladin,Witch Burial, Void,8pm
THEPARISHATHOUSE OF BLUES
Eric Hutchinson, 8pm
THREEKEYSATACE HOTELNEW ORLEANS —Water Seed, 8pm
ZONY MASH BEERPROJECT —The Brightsides -Strokes Tribute,8 pm
SATURDAY8
BAMBOULAS —Youse,11am; New Orleans SwingingGypsies, 2:15 pm; JohnnyMastro Blues, 6:30 pm; PaggyPrine, 10 pm
BLUE NILE —George Brown Band,7pm; Kumasi Afrobeat Orchestra,11pm
BLUE NILEBALCONY ROOM —The Marigny StreetBrass Band,10pm; Kumasi AfrobeatOrchestra,11pm
CHEMIN ALAMER AT FOUR SEASONS
—Amanda Shaw,12pm
DEWDROPSOCIAL&BENEVOLENT
HALL —J.Monqué DBlues
Revue, 6:30 pm
FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB
—Richard “Piano”Scott, 12:30 pm; SteveDetroyBand,2:30pm; Fritzel’s AllStarBand,9pm; LeeFloyd and Thunderbolt Trio, 6pm
GASA GASA —Doctors,9 pm
HOUSE OF BLUESNEW ORLEANS Skinny Puppy,8 pm
MADAMEVIC'S —Dayne Kurtz, Robert Maché, 8pm
OLDARABI LIGHTHOUSE RECORDS
ANDBOOKS —Carlo Ditta, 3pm
PRESERVATIONHALL —Preservation
All-Starsfeat. ShannonPowell,5,6:15, 7:30 &8:45pm
PUBLIC BELTATHILTONRIVERSIDE
PhilMelancon, 8pm
SIBERIA —FantasyNon Fiction,Zach Smallman,Letrainiump,8 pm
SMOOTHIEKING CENTER —Los Tigres del Norte, 8pm
THEJAZZPLAYHOUSE —The Nayo JonesExperience, 7:30 &9pm
WILD BUSH FARM +VINEYARD
Debbie Davisand the Mesmerizers, 6:30 pm
WaterSeedplaysTuesdaythe 4thatBlueNileandFriday the7thatThreeKeys
SUNDAY9
BAMBOULAS —SecretSix Jazz Band, 1:15 pm;MidnightBrawlers, 5:30 pm; Ed WillsBlues 4Sale, 9pm
BLUE NILE —The BakedPotatoes, 7pm; StreetLegends Brass Band,10pm
FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB Seva VenetBand,12pm; JoeKennedy Band,2 pm;Marla DixonBand,5 pm;Fritzel's AllStarBand,8 pm
GASA GASA —Xiu Xiuwith Coral Mercy, 9pm
PEACOCKROOM, HOTELFONTENOT —Easter Brunch!,9 am
PRESERVATIONHALL —Preservation Legacy Band feat.Will Smith, 2:30 &3:45pm
THEJAZZPLAYHOUSE —GlenDavid AndrewsBand,7:30 pm
MONDAY10
BAMBOULAS —The Four Horsemen of Jazzfest,1:15pm; TheMelatuan's, 5:30 pm;Big Soul Band,9 pm
FRITZEL'SEUROPEAN JAZZ CLUB
MatineeAll Star Band,12:30 pm;Lee Floydand Thunderbolt Trio, 5pm; Richard"Piano"Scott and Friends, 8pm
GASA GASA —Skweezy Jibbswith Adam Pasi,9pm
JOYTHEATER —Built To Spill,7 pm
PRESERVATIONHALL —The Preservation Brass,5,7:30& 8:45 pm
24 GA MB IT > BES TO FN EW OR LE AN S. CO M >A PRIL 4-1 0>2 02 3
PHOTO BY JOHN STANTON/GAMBIT
SCAN FOR THE COMPLETE GAMBIT CALENDAR
Doomsaying
by Jake Clapp
ANARETA’S“FEARNOT”ISBEAUTIFULAND FULLOFTERROR.Intertwining chamber music andcrushing doommetal,the NewOrleans band’sdebut album, outApril 8, plays with contrasting dynamics —harshand soft,intimate and epic,bleakand lush.
“I find thoseelementsinboth classicaland metal,atleast in the songs Ireally like in those genres,” says leadvocalistand bassistSarah Jacques.“We’rejust pushingita little bitfurther in metal.”
Thesix membersofAnareta —Jacques; violinistLouise Neal; violistMackenzie Hamilton;cellist SamHollier;guitarist Cary Goforth; and drummer BoyannaTrayanova —formed theband in 2018.Each musician hasa unique musical background,playing in anumber of projects,frompunkand Eastern European folk to classical, trad jazz and brassband music. Still,they’ve knownone another foryears,and foundcommon love in heavymusic oncetheystarted writing together.
Anareta spentayearwriting before hittingstages at venues like Santos, The Goat,GasaGasaand Siberia
Thegroup cut atwo-song demo earlyon, andinmid-2020recorded thesweepingsix-track “FearNot” at Houseof1000HzinBywater
Theband will nowcelebrate itsnew albumwith arelease show at 9p.m Friday,April 7, at Saturn Barwith Slowhole andCultwife.
“Our vision of ourmusic is expansive,”Hollier says.“We arereally lookingout at thedifferent influences that we find and thedifferent things we find inspiring. That’s really also howwe’vetalkedabouthow to interactwith themusic scene as well.We don’tsee ourselvesasjust ametal band.Thereare parallelsbetween ourmusic andall thesedifferent genres and sounds. Ithinka lotof differentpeople whowouldn’tnecessarilywanttogotoametal show will seesomething they appreciate.”
It isn’tunusual forbands to incorporateorchestralelements into heavymusic,but forAnareta, it’s fundamentally intertwined.Hollier’s celloand Jacques’ electric bass work together to setadarkatmosphere forNeal and Hamilton’s venomousstrings,Goforth’s chugging guitar and Trayanova’spounding drums.Jacquesdistressed howl flies above like itsown instrument. Thesongs on “FearNot”glide throughmovement-liketransitions, whilethe band’s punk ethoshelps keep themusic accessible
When themembersofAnareta startedwriting together,they
discussed groups like blackmetal band Wolves in theThroneRoom, Swedish deathmetal band At the Gatesand stoner/doomtrioSleep
Butcomposers like Vivaldi also came up —and in another time, Rachmaninoffand Prokofievmight have been intriguedby“Fear Not.”
Anareta also found influences in literature, humannature and the naturalenvironment. “Locality,” theband’s despairing debutsingle released earlier this year drew from a scene outofDante’s “Inferno,”where thepoetand Virgil crossthe Gates of Hell into an area filled with shades followingablack bannerand angels barred from both heavenand hell Theopening“Frozen Wasteland” and relentless “Unforgiving Sun” find oppressivecold and heat punishing human arrogance. Andon“Black Snake”— named foraLakotaprophecyaboutablack snakepoisoning waters —Anareta laments the destruction humans arecausing the naturalenvironment.
“That’sprobablyour most politically mindedsongbecause around thetimewewerewriting it,there wasalot of activism happening with theDakotaAccess Pipeline and theAtchafalaya Basinpipeline,” Jacquessays.
Along with itsunique approach to itsmusic,Anaretawants to build inclusivity in NewOrleans metal.
“Wewanttohavemetal shows wherepeoplecan feel like they can come if they’renot that straight, white dude,”Hamilton says.“More queer people,morepeople of color —everyonefeels more comfortable wherethey’re in an environment wheretheysee people like themselves and it’s fun.”
Admissionfor Anareta’sApril 7 release showis$10.Find“Fear
Not” starting April8 at anareta bandcamp.com.
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NewOrleansorchestralmetalband Anaretareleasesitsdebutalbum ‘FearNot’onApril8
PROVIDEDPHOTO BY BOBBYBONESY
2023
IN-DEPTHSCHOoLPROFILES Pre-schooltoCollege ISSUE DATE APR 18 Ad Director SandyStein504.483.3150 or sstein@gambitweekly.com RESERVESPACEBYAPR7
Help parentsfind the rightschool. Highlight your mission, programs, & philosophies. List important datesand open houses.
by Will Coviello
OWENWILSONPLAYS VERMONT’STOP PUBLICTVPAINTING INSTRUCTOR,Carl Nargle,in“Paint.”
Everyweek,he tellsviewers that he wantsto take them “toa specialplace.” In a whisperingvoice filled with wonder, he’spartbreathless naturalist, part mystic teacher as he renders apainting of alandscape,witha treeorcreek in theforeground and Vermont’stoweringMount Mansfield in thebackground.
With histight curlypermand beard, Nargle is meanttolook like BobRoss, whohostedthe PBS show “The JoyofPainting” from 1983 to 1994.Wilsonalso speaksin aperpetual whisper, which is part of thegentlecharmthatendears himtoboth viewersand some women staffatthe station
In abid to improve itssluggish ratings,the stationwants to give itsaudiencemoreofthe painting instruction it seemstolove Thevivacious youngAmbrosia arrivestofreshen up thecanvasesand,unavoidably,shake up Nargle’s world.
Rossdiedin1995and seemsto have becomemoreiconicinthe ageofthe internet.Nargle resembles him,wearing hisopen collar button-downshirtsand cradling his palettewhile talking to the camera. But“Paint” is notabout Ross. That’s more of ajumping off pointthatcapturesNargle’speculiar fame.He’sa bigfishinasmall pond and,inanentertainingly understated way, sort of aprima donna as thestation’s lone star.
Nargle is accustomed to his well-wornfame, and he’s conspicuouslynot changedinyears.He drives abrightlycolored custom vanequipped with aCBradio and sofa bed in back.Hesmokes apipe, dinesata fonduerestaurant,and seemsoblivioustothe arrivaloftechnologyasrecentas smartphones andasancient as telephoneanswering machines. Thesoundtrackunderscores the time capsule withsongs from the1970sbyJohnDenverand Gordon Lightfoot
Ambrosia is thefaceofanew generation.Broadwayand TV star
CiaraReneehas ahugesmile,and Ambrosiadelightsinimpulse and artistic freedom. She addssurreal imagerytoher paintings,though that canbehardfor some older viewers to embrace.
Nargle is accustomed to staff attending to hiswhims andfawning overhim.He’sdated several of thewomen at thestation,and anew young staffer,Jenna (Lucy Freyer),isthe latest to swoon at thechancetobecomehis muse But“Paint” isn’taboutNargle as aquick-paintingCasanova.His small-denominationfameand comfortseemtohave distracted him. As much as thepaintings,the competition forattention makes himre-evaluate hisstature Director Brit McAdams sticks to apatient pace that reflects Nargle’s tranquil canvases and thesmall town’s polite mores.But he doesn’tconfine thestory to apostcardimage of Vermont’s leaveschangingcolors.There’s plentybubblingunder thesurface, andthe film gets alot of mileageout of abruptrevelations, innuendo andmodernity crashing in on Nargle.The contemplation of what constitutes artissweet and nicely rendered
As in manyofhis roles in Wes Anderson movies,Wilsonmay be typecast as aman suddenlyforced to confront hislimitations and delusions,but he’s perfect forthe job. Acouple of other roles would have benefited from more development,especially Ambrosia.She couldbemoredeeplyconsidered, and Reneeiscertainlycapable of doingmuchmorewithit.
Thealmost-over-the-top’70s references arefun,but “Paint” is a sweetcomedyabouttakingafresh look at what’s been sittinginplain view allalong
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“Paint” opens April 7atZeitgeist Theatre& Lounge
PHOTO PROVIDED BY IFCFILMS
Brushwithfame
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PREMIER CROSSWORD PUZZLE
CELEBRITY ANAGRAMS
By Frank A. Longo
ACROSS
1Hindu music pattern
5Captivated
13Kellogg’s toaster treat
20Missing GI
21Sprinted competitively, perhaps
22One shunning something
23Best Actor nominee for “Mrs. Miniver”
25Maximal-ebb phenomenon
26Trauma pro in a hosp.
27“Knives Out” actress — de Armas
28No, in Fife
30Japanese wheat pasta 31Filmed again
39Double Stuf cookies
42Look for water with a divining rod
43“Juno and the Paycock” playwright Sean
44He played Otto Octavius in “Spider-Man 2”
48Truth bender
49Shifts body weight against 50Pics to click
52Which person
55Series-ending abbr.
56“Yes, Yvette”
57“The Revolution Will Not Be Televised” poet 62Jeff Bridges sci-fi film 65Glockenspiel relative
film
67Planet’s path 68Trying Jenny Craig, e.g.
up
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TOPPRODUCER GARDEN DISTRICTOFFICE 2016, 2017 &2020
32Ho-humness
34Cruel Amin
35Many an heir
36Pan Am rival
37Travel origin, generically
38Virtual money
40“— vincit amor”
41Heavy drinker
44Bar brew
45“It’s go time!”
46Almanac, in large part
47Ship’s diary
48Trent of Mississippi
50Slushy drink
51 Rica
52Accessory near a mouse
53Real estate transaction
54Individuals
58“It’s too hard for me”
59Brought on
60More crafty
61Comic Idle
63“— I a stinker?”
64“I’d rather there”
(“That topic is off limits”)
67A while ago
69Loch
70Ketchup ingredient
72Belittled, informally
73Study of insects, informally
ABR,CRS,GRI,SFR,SRS
75Many a monk
76Some unofficial sci-fi stories
78Two-gender pronoun
79Prefix with center
82Camera variety, briefly
86Swiss mount
87Bowled over
88Gas ratings
89Floor cleaner
90Styled after 91Writer Anaïs
92Partners
93Capital of South Dakota
94Laotians and Thais
95Just dandy
96Likenesses
27 GA MB IT > BES TO FN EW OR LE AN S. CO M > AP RI L 410 > 20 23 PU ZZ LE S
NEWLISTING
kin
in Spain
to laser tag
buco 89Apt item for 44-Across to keep files in? 92Chief Cochise, e.g. 95Garlic mayo 97Principal 98Apt business for 33-Across to have on the stock exchange? 101 Mimickingacrow’scry 105 Sci-fi princess 106 Alias letters 107 Pal, to Yves 110 Former chief justice Roger 111 Carrier based in Tehran 114 Apt ingredient for 23-Across to make a jiggly dessert? 119 Guevara called “Che” 120 Exhibit A, say 121 Assistant 122 Court period 123 Like the Zax and the Lorax 124 Gleeful cries DOWN
refined 2Au courant 3Top medals
brass instrument 5Make a gaffe
wine valley 7Have with (be favored by)
title 9Assn. 10“Norma —” 11Writer Umberto 12IHOP competitor 13Prefix with -lithic or -zoic 14 -lacto vegetarian 15“Wham!”
which a name is taken 17Reebok rival
over 19Au courant
destination that’s “green”
rarity
83Moose
84These,
85Alternative
88
1Less
4Valved
6California
8Lady’s
16From
18Made
24Tourist
29Golf
“The
Peter 102 Delhi’s land 103 Very poor 104 Whirls around 108 Short skirt 109 Old Peruvian 112 “Do say!” 113 Skater Midori 115 Adam and 116 Actress Lucy 117 TV pitches 118 Signing tool
99Leslie of “Lili” 100
Deep” director
33American Ballet Theatre principal dancer beginning in 2015
66Frosty
70Stands
71Midday
ANSWERS FOR LAST ISSUE’S PUZZLE: P 26
time 72Treaty result 74Impacts 77Apt retail establishment for 57-Across to own? 80“Kewl!” 81Daddies