WINE + SPIRITS
Reds, whites and roses for summer
& Sushi Bar, Bacchanal Wine and Mick’s Irish Pub.
WINE
REVIEWS
G A M B I T ’ S WINE & SPIRITS 2016 > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > M AY 1 7 > 2 0 1 6
BY B R E N DA M A I T L A N D
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2014 Albamar Sauvignon Blanc
followed closely by sauvignon blanc. The climate and soils provide ideal conditions to cultivate C A S A B L A N C A VA L L E Y, C H I L E complex and balanced fruit. R E TA I L $ 1 1 Native Chileans William Cole and Casablanca, named for the his family produce Albamar, a area’s main city, is one of sauvignon blanc vinified bone the newest and most prolific dry and offering aromas of wine-growing areas in South Meyer lemon and green apples. America. The valley emerged Drink it with seafood, raw vegein the mid-1980s by growing a tables, steamed artichokes and range of grapes, including pinot Asian cuisines. Buy it at: Pearl noir, merlot, syrah, riesling, pinot Wine Co. Drink it at: Windsor gris and others, but the most Court Hotel, Bayou Wine Garcommon grape is chardonnay, den, Kyoto Japanese Restaurant
Adami Garbel Prosecco Brut T R E V I S O, I TA LY R E TA I L $ 1 4 -$ 1 6
The Italian sparkling wine prosecco has become popular recently in part because of improvements in vineyard management, winery practices and the modernization of the Charmat process. For this wine, grapes were grown on chestnut stakes and picked when acidity and sugars were at the right levels. They were fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel vats, then rested on its lees for three months. In the Charmat method, a second fermentation preserves the fruit expression and freshness, but the wine is not sweet. Drink it as an aperitif or with ceviche, crab cakes, shellfish, prosciutto, roasted tomatoes and mozzarella cheese. Buy it at: Martin Wine Cellars and Faubourg Wines. Drink it at: Upperline Restaurant, Mondo, Ye Olde College Inn, St. James Cheese Co. on Tchoupitoulas Street, Capdeville, The Delachaise, Blue Line Sandwich Co., Circle Bar and RF’s Dining Music Cocktails.
2015 By.Ott Rose C OT E S D E PROV E N C E , F R A N C E R E TA I L $ 2 2
Domaines Ott was founded in 1896 by a young agronomist named Marcel Ott and has turned out graceful but powerful wines typical of the wines of Provence. To make a proper rose the vintner constructed a new winemaking facility at its estate in Selles. The blend is
composed of 75 percent grenache and 25 percent cinsault and syrah, resulting in a bold but elegant wine. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks and wine is transferred to oak barrels to round out its flavor and add texture. Drink it with pate, charcuterie, soft cheeses, barbecue, pulled pork and strawberries. Buy it at: Martin Wine Cellar. Drink it at: Peche Seafood Grill.
2014 Landhaus Mayer Gruner Veltliner N I E D E RO S T E R R E I C H , AU S T R I A R E TA I L $ 1 7
Gruner Veltliner is a result of combining two grapes: savagnin, also known as traminer, and an obscure, unnamed, “lost” species — of which only one vine remained as late as 1990. But the popularity of the wine in every region of Austria, particularly Vienna, is undeniable. It’s a wonderful accompaniment to food because of its spicy, quincelike qualities, a rush of citrus fruit on the nose and palate, and its chalky acidic finish, reinforcing its signature crispness. Drink it with grilled asparagus, poached salmon, wiener schnitzel, roasted chicken, kale salad and soft cheeses. Buy it at: Pearl Wine Co. and Grand Krewe Fine Wine and Spirits. Drink it at: Doris Metropolitan and Oxalis.
2015 Filus Torrontes S A LTA , A RG E N T I N A R E TA I L $ 1 4
Maritime influences often contribute to the making of great wines, but Argentina offers exceptions to that rule. The nation’s wine country is blocked from the sea by the Andes mountains and
Chile. The area of Cafayate in the valley of Calchaquies is considered the best place in Argentina to grow torrontes grapes, originally brought to the area by the Spanish. It is arid, sits 5,500 feet above sea level and receives less than 10 inches of rain a year. The aromatic grape is identified by stone fruit characters and apricot and peach flavors. Made to be enjoyed young, Filus Torrontes has flavors of flowers, spice, tropical notes and white peach. The long clean finish has its characteristic acidity. Drink it with seafood, salads, vegetables, goat cheese, charcuterie and spicy Thai, Indian and Peruvian dishes. Buy it at: Elio’s Wine Warehouse. Drink it at: Bayona.
2015 Finca Jakue Getariako Txakolina G E TA R I A KO, S PA I N R E TA I L $ 2 0 -$ 2 2
This wine is made in Spain’s Basque Country, along the Bay of Biscay, where most txakolina (chock-oh-LEE-nah) is consumed. This winery was founded by fifth-generation Eizaguirre family members after a Guarantee of Origin was created for this area in 1989. Txakolina uses the white grape hondarrabi zuri and the red grape hondarrabi beltza. The wine is a rose with light carbonation. On the nose, there are hints of red fruit such as strawberry, plus stone fruit and peaches. Drink it with tapas, seafood, cured meats and hard cheeses like idiazabel and aged manchego. Buy it at: Swirl Wine Bar and Market and Philippe’s Wine Cellar. Drink it at: Borgne, Boucherie, Bayou Wine Garden, Green Goddess and Bacchanal. WS
WINE + SPIRITS
Ice age
FROZEN DRINKS
A CRAFT COCKTAIL APPROACH TO FROZEN DRINKS BY H E L E N F R E U N D
JUNE 18-19
AT TAD GORMLEY STADIUM IN CITY PARK
@RRCFEST
SATURDAY PERFORMANCES:
VOLUME I
RRCFEST.COM FOR COMPLETE LINE UP AND TICKET INFORMATION
Upscale frozen drinks are served at the Ace Hotel’s rooftop bar Alto. PHOTO BY CHERYL GERBER
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www.bourreenola.com) was opened as a daiquiri and wing shop, where Nathanial Zimet and James Denio, the owners behind Boucherie, have been slinging fresh fruit and gin and tonic daiquiris for more than a year. The Rubin “The Hurricane” Carter is a refreshing take on the Bourbon Street standby and less headache-inducing, made with rum, Earl Grey simple syrup, Peychaud’s bitters and lemon juice. Seasonal flavors change frequently, but lately specials have included a strawberry colada made with lemon grass and star anise, a bourbonbased frozen mint julep and a tart carrot and cilantro frozen margarita made with tequila. Bacobar (70437 Highway 21, Covington, 985-893-2450; www.bacobarnola.com) is the Northshore’s newest Latin and Asian street food concept. When its owners took over the former Jerk’s Island Grill spot, they inherited eight daiquiri machines. Bartender Lu Brow designed the drinks menu, and cocktails take a sharp detour from the norm, including frozen cocktails that turn tradition on its head. The Chi Chi, a reworked pina colada, swaps rum for Pinnacle vodka and features fresh pineapple juice, ginger liqueur and cream of coconut. Frozen margaritas are infused with fresh lemon grass and there’s even a frozen spin on the classic French 75, made with brandy, orange liqueur, lemon juice and sparkling wine. WS
I-WAYNE, THIRD WORLD AND MANY MORE
RICHIE SPICE, CAPLETON AND MANY MORE
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When temperatures soar into the 90s, locals want icy cold drinks. If they are available to-go, even better. But now, thanks to a crop of bartenders who are using quality ingredients in place of high-fructose corn syrup and artificial coloring, frozen drinks don’t have to be sugar bombs that leave you with a killer crash and pounding headache 30 minutes later. The taste for highbrow frozen drinks has been building slowly, and places including the now-shuttered Booty’s Street Food and gastropub St. Lawrence were among the first local restaurants to take craft cocktail approaches to daiquiris. Abigail Gullo, bar director at Compere Lapin (535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-599-2119; www.comperelapin. com), says the shift is emblematic of trends seen across the country, where bartenders are moving toward a revival of “cheesy drinks from the ’80s and ’90s” that a few years ago would have gotten little more than a sneer. “Cocktail bartending as a craft got really serious for a while … but bartending and drinking is supposed to be fun,” Gullo says. “It’s not like we’re backsliding. We’re still making great drinks; we’re just not being so precious with them anymore.” Plus, Gullo adds, the frozen versions of classic cocktails are “a great way to serve really good drinks really fast.”
The drink selection rotates at Compere Lapin, but for early summer there’s a fresh strawberry daiquiri made with rum, St. Germain, lime juice and black pepper simple syrup. The bar’s take on a pina colada features coconut milk, coconut cream, rum, pineapple juice, lime, basil syrup and allspice liqueur and is topped with grated nutmeg. At Willa Jean (611 O’Keefe Ave., 504-509-7334; www.willajean.com), the pale pink icy Frose is exactly what it sounds like: frozen rose in a go-cup. The house daiquiri machine also turns out a potent frozen lemonade made with Cathead Honeysuckle vodka. The recently opened Ace Hotel’s rooftop bar Alto (600 Carondelet St., 504-900-1180; www.acehotel. com/neworleans) is equipped with a whirring daiquiri machine, and revelers can enjoy views of the New Orleans skyline as a backdrop. Beverage director Lucinda Weed created the Mississippi Blues Lagoon — a riff on the 1970s cocktail, made with Cathead vodkas (regular and honeysuckle), Blue Curacao, lemon juice and lychee puree. Like the original, the drink is garnished with a tiny flag, orange and a cherry. There’s also the Purple Rain — named in tribute to the late musician Prince — which is a take on the classic Bramble using gin, blackberries and lemon juice. In the Riverbend, Bourree (1510 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-510-4040;
SUNDAY PERFORMANCES:
IN NEW ORLEANS, FROZEN DAIQUIRIS PRACTICALLY ARE A BIRTHRIGHT.
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WINE + SPIRITS
Latin mix
NON-TEQUILA LATIN COCKTAILS AT LOCAL BARS.
LATIN
DRINKS
BY H E L E N F R E U N D
G A M B I T ’ S WINE & SPIRITS 2016 > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > M AY 1 7 > 2 0 1 6
LATIN AND CARIBBEAN SPIRITS ARE MAKING WAVES ACROSS THE COUNTRY, and bartenders
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in New Orleans are riding the wave, creating cocktails that go beyond familiar tequila drinks and tiki creations. Rum and pisco, the clear grape-based brandy produced in Peru, Chile and elsewhere, are popping up on cocktail menus all over town. Pisco is the star at the Pisco Bar in the recently opened Catahoula Hotel (914 Union St., 504-6032442; www.catahoulahotel. com), where bartender Nathan Dalton pays homage to the South American spirit in classic and original creations. Similar to a Moscow Mule, the Chilcano combines pisco and ginger beer; the Chilcano Granada adds passion fruit and pomegranate juices to the mix. Guests who order the Coolest Kid in Class cocktail get a brown paper lunch bag containing a plastic bag filled with Goldfish crackers, what looks like a juice drink pouch and a handwritten note from “mom.” Though gimmicky, the aluminum pouch contains a potent blend of chamomile-infused pisco, sherry, apple and honey. As a bonus, it’s the perfect to-go drink. At Loa in the International House Hotel (221 Camp St., 504553-9550; www.ihhotel.com), bartender Alan Walter’s riff on the pisco sour includes Spanish moss syrup he infuses himself. “(Pisco) is a great summer spirit,” Walter says. “The reason I use the moss is that it has a sort of green tea flavor and a sweet earthiness.” The drink comes in a glass with its rim coated in dried fennel and dried Moroccan lime. There’s also a refreshing take on a pina colada Walter playfully named the Agricolada, made with rhum agricole — a rum distilled in the French Caribbean from sugar cane juice — coconut water, pineapple and an egg white.
The pisco sour is a house specialty at the Pisco Bar in the Catahoula Hotel. P H OTO BY C H E RY L G E R B E R
Earlier this year, author and rum historian Wayne Curtis kicked off a series of educational seminars and rum tastings at the renovated Palace Cafe’s (605 Canal St., 504-523-1661; www.palacecafe. com) new Black Duck Bar, home to the New Orleans Rum Society, a club for rum enthusiasts. The upstairs bar is as good a place as any to begin a primer on the spirit, as the list includes 130 rums. The cocktail menu includes classics, such as Mai Tais and daiquiris as well as original drinks like the Foster the People, a summer sipper made with Ron Matusalem Clasico Solera 10-year-aged rum, banana liqueur, cane syrup, lemon juice and El Guapo Polynesian Kiss bitters. “I think rum has always been a backburner spirit in New Orleans,” says Nick Detrich of Cane & Table (1113 Decatur St., 504-581-1112;
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www.caneandtablenola. com). “It’s something that’s always been prevalent. In this climate, people seem to turn back to rum.” Detrich often looks to history for inspiration when creating the cocktails for the bar’s “proto-tiki” menu. By reading travel logs and ledgers from the early 1800s, he came up with the concept for the Smoak and Plank cocktail, a smoky sourtype drink which includes the bar’s house-made cherry bounce — modeled after Martha Washington’s brandy-based recipe (the bar makes its version with rum) — mezcal, grenadine and fresh lime juice. There’s also a drink inspired by the Puerto Rican tradition of mixing Scotch and coconut water. The drink is made with Monkey Shoulder blended scotch, Don Q Gran Anejo rum, Bittermens Xocolatl Mole bitters, Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao and frozen coconut water in place of ice cubes. “The drink changes as the ice melts and it becomes more and more refreshing,” Detrich says. Rum-based cocktails are the only kind on the menu at El Libre (508 Dumaine St., 504-309-2699; www. ellibrenola.com), the tiny Cuban hideaway in the French Quarter specializing in Cuban coffee and pressed sandwiches. Classic drinks include mojitos and daiquiris. The Hemingway daiquiri features white rum, Luxardo maraschino liqueur, sugar, lime and fresh grapefruit juice. The El Presidente, a drink popular during Prohibition, features white rum, white vermouth, orange curacao and grenadine made in-house. Bartenders likely will expand their rum-based cocktail menus as New Orleanians rediscover the Latin and Caribbean spirit. WS
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WINE + SPIRITS
Acquired tastes GETTING DOWN TO BASICS WHEN ORDERING WINE
WINE
101
BY S . J . S E B E L L I N - RO S S
WINE STORES AND RESTAURANT WINE LISTS CAN PRESENT A DAUNTING ARRAY OF UNFAMILAIR LABELS FROM AROUND THE WORLD. But the basics of finding a
wine you like remain the same. The key components to choosing a wine are: knowing what you enjoy, deciding how much you want to spend, considering what you will eat with the wine and knowing some useful terminology.
G A M B I T ’ S WINE & SPIRITS 2016 > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > M AY 1 7 > 2 0 1 6
Drink what you like
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When you know what you like, you can use the knowledge to find preferred or similar wines. To learn what you like, you have the enviable task of drinking as many different types of wine as possible. “Every time you encounter a wine you really enjoy, take a picture of the bottle or inquire about the name so you can refer back to it, and that will help you the next time you order wine,” says Gary Wollerman, owner of French Quarter seafood restaurant GW Fins. Restaurants that offer many vintages by the glass help diners taste their way around the wine list. Diners should be aware that glasses of wine have a higher mark up than bottles.
How much do you want to spend? Most wine lists are arranged with wines in descending order of price within categories, but diners don’t need to spend a lot to buy a good bottle. “Price doesn’t necessarily indicate quality,” Wollerman says. “You can get very drinkable bottles for $25-$30.”
What goes with what The old rule of wine selection dictated drinking red wine with red meat and white wine with seafood. Current wisdom, however, suggests balancing wine and food. For example, order a light wine for a light dish and a heavier wine for a heavier dish. “In a steak restaurant, you might want to go with a Washington state or Napa Valley merlot,” says Dan Davis, the officially titled “Wine Guy” at Commander’s Palace and its sister restaurants. “But if everyone is having seafood, you might
want to go with a light-bodied white or red such as a chardonnay or pinot noir.”
Useful wine terms Knowing key wine terminology helps diners communicate the wine characteristics they want and don’t want to sommeliers and restaurant servers. Varietal refers to the type of grape used, or on a label it may refer to the most dominant grape in a wine. Many wines are made with blends of grapes. Dryness is an indication of how much sugar is in a wine: Dry wines have less; sweet wines have more, though the terms are relative and a wine can be considered sweet without tasting sugary. Most wines are dry, but there is a place for truly sweet wines, such as the sparkling red wines of Italy’s Piedmont region, on the dining table. “Sweet and (spicy) heat go together nicely,” Davis says. “As do sweet (wines) and desserts.” Tannins are naturally occurring compounds found in grape skins and other plant matter, including oak barrels. Red wines generally have higher levels of tannins, or are more “tannic.” Tannins add bitterness and complexity, which can make a wine intriguing. “Tannins create a dry wine,” Wollerman says. “A novice might be happier with a wine that is a little softer, such as a pinot noir.” If a wine seems tart or fresh, what diners are tasting is acidity. Wine grapes grown in colder climates, such as the grapes used for German rieslings, tend to be more acidic. Big wines are wines that have strong flavor while round wines are balanced, meaning individual elements, such as tannins, don’t overpower other elements. Vintage refers to the year the grapes were grown and harvested. WS
WINE + SPIRITS
Hello, happy hour
SHOPPING
guide
IT’S BOOZE O’ CLOCK. DO YOU KNOW WHERE YOUR BAR CART ESSENTIALS ARE? Think of this FLASK as a primer on baseball grips and your own personal go-cup (it’s so much classier than drinking whiskey from a Coke can), $35 at Aidan Gill for Men (550 Fulton St., 504-566-4903; 2026 Magazine St., 504-587-9090; www. aidangillformen.com).
BY M I S SY W I L K I N S O N
Chill this MARBLE CUTTING BOARD in the freezer and it will keep cocktail garnishes cold and fresh, $30 at Hazelnut (5515 Magazine St., 504-891-2424; www. hazelnutneworleans.com).
A COCKTAIL-EMBELLISHED TIE by NOLA Couture is a great way to advertise that you’re the bartender … or that you just really love drinking, $65 at Pearl Wine Co. (3700 Orleans Ave., Suite 1C, 504-483-6314; www.pearlwineco.com).
When it’s time to upgrade from two-buck chuck, this BESTSELLING GUIDE TO WINE offers a fast track to a decent palate, $24.95 at Pearl Wine Co. (3700 Orleans Ave., Suite 1C, 504-483-6314; www.pearlwineco.com).
Embossed with a French bulldog logo, LOCALLY DESIGNED LEATHER COASTERS tell guests you’re top dog — and they’d better not think of setting a beer on your bar without protection, $50 for a set of four coasters by Damn Dog at Aidan Gill for Men (550 Fulton St., 504566-4903; 2026 Magazine St., 504-5879090; www.aidangillformen.com).
Give that old fashioned an elegant place to call home. GLASSES, $65 each at Hazelnut (5515 Magazine St., 504-891-2424; www.hazelnutneworleans.com). WS
G A M B I T ’ S WINE & SPIRITS 2016 > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > M AY 1 7 > 2 0 1 6
The pros at Martin Wine Cellar (open 70 years and counting) know how to outfit a home bar. (Clockwise from top) STOPPER, $10.99, DOUBLE JIGGER, $6.49, COCKTAIL STRAINER, $4.69, MUDDLER, $7, TRIDENT BAR SPOON, $5.99, and HONEYSUCKLE AND PEPPERCORN SYRUP, $15, all at Martin Wine Cellar (714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie, 504-896-7300; 2895 Hwy. 190, Mandeville, 985-9518081; 3827 Baronne St., 504-899-7411; www.martinwinecellar.com).
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We Have Your Flavor!
WINE + SPIRITS
Through the grapevine
WINE
REGIONS
NOTABLE VINTNERS IN LESSER-KNOWN WINE REGIONS BY B R E N DA M A I T L A N D
35+ beers available every day !
CELEBRATING 25 Years OF
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Great service, Hand-crafted cocktails, Generational family recipes, Exquisite special events and Live Cajun music 7 nights a week!
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The Original Cajun Restaurant MULATE’S RESTAURANT • 201 JULIA ST. • 504.522.1492 • WWW.MULATES.COM
MAY 24 MARKS THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE SO-CALLED “JUDGMENT OF PARIS,” when, in a blind tasting, California wines bested the most prestigious French wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy. It shocked the culinary world and became a huge boon to the American wine industry. The U.S. surpassed France as the world’s biggest consumer of wine last year. As the growing American wine industry continues to expand to new areas, it sees new vintners emerge. Here are some of the regions garnering attention for local bottlings.
Mendocino County, California This cooler coastal region, situated north of the renowned Napa and Sonoma counties, has arrived. The influence of the Pacific Ocean, excellent soils and abundant sunlight allow vintners to craft approachable and structured wines. The conditions are ripe for producing lower alcohol wines, which are increasingly popular. Mendocino leads the state in the use of biodynamic and certified organic farming. The region is hospitable to a wide array of varietals, including pinot noir, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, riesling, zinfandel, gewurztraminer, chenin and sauvignon blancs, cabernet Franc, syrah, viognier and others. Mendocino is part of the larger North Coast American Viticultural Area (AVA) and home to Roederer Estate, Handley Cellars, Navarro Vineyards & Winery and Scharffenberger Cellars. Some winemakers from Napa Valley have invested in the area to make different styles of wines than their main outpost and to escape the higher temperatures on the valley floor. Investors include Sonoma’s Silver Oak, Twomey and Ferrari-Carano Cellars as well as Napa Valley’s Duckhorn Wine Company. Columbia Valley, Washington Columbia Valley occupies parts of Washington and Oregon, but the area in the south central part of Washington is making a name for itself as a wine producer. Grapes including cabernet sauvignon, merlot, nebbiolo, malbec and syrah take on different tones when produced in Walla Walla,
Red Mountain, Horse Heaven Hills and Wahluke Slope. All benefit from a warm, sometimes hot, dry climate and the vines sit in soils deposited by a massive flood at the end of the last ice age. The appellation is huge, and there are many microclimates, but cold winters help define the growing seasons. Top-notch producers in Columbia Valley and its environs include Hedges Family Estate, Seven Hills, Canoe Ridge Vineyard, Mercer Wine Estates, Sleight of Hand Cellars and Woodward Canyon Winery. Finger Lakes, New York The Finger Lakes region of central and western New York is defined by 11 long, narrow lakes, which allow for a variety of microclimates, perfect for growing cold-weather grapes such as riesling and gewurztraminer and some red grapes including cabernet Franc. Most of the wines made in the area are vinified dry, meaning all sugar is converted to alcohol, but some may seem sweet because of their fruit’s character. Notable Finger Lakes wineries are Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellar, Ravines Wine Cellars, Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars, Hermann J. Weimer Vineyard, Fox Run Vineyards and Heron Hill Winery. These newly recognized grape growing regions, and many others from every state, are part of the maturing of the American wine industry, and lots of trial and error as well as scientific research have been devoted to identifying what fruit to plant in what place. WS
WINE + SPIRITS
Hooked on tonics THE CRAFT COCKTAIL MOVEMENT HELPS REVIVE GIN’S POPULARITY.
GIN
101
BY Z AC H H O L LW E D E L
New Orleans distiller Atelier Vie makes a whiskey barrel-aged gin.
YOUR
FAVORITE
P H OTO BY J R T H O M A S O N
Farmer agrees, observing that more people are willing to experiment with gin, either featured in a cocktail or as a secondary spirit in a drink. Locally, gin’s growing acceptance has to do with the inventive ways bartenders are using the spirit. Previously gins were almost exclusively mixed with tonic. Now some local bars mix it with house-made tonics. Corpse Revivers (gin, Cointreau, lemon juice, Lillet and a dash of absinthe) are cropping up on cocktail menus around the city, and Aviations (gin, maraschino liqueur and lemon juice) are more common than five years ago. For New Orleans flair, Atelier Vie’s Euphrosine Gin #9 Barrel-Finished Reserve is a smooth sipping gin aged in second-use whiskey barrels, which lends itself perfectly to a barrel-aged gin Sazerac. Haas says there is ample creativity and room for exploration with gin, and he expects to see more styles of the spirit introduced. Schettler distills the gin renaissance to its practical core, saying “I have more tools at my disposal to make the drink that’s perfect for you.” WS
NEIGHBORHOOD
Summer coctails are here!
BAR!
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Happy Hour 1pm-7pm daily
$1 off all doubles $2 domestics � $3.50 wells $2 shot w/ any beer
Smoking Allowed
TRY OUR SEASONAL SUMMER COCKTAILS!
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GIN HAS LONG BEEN A STIGMATIZED SPIRIT. To many people, it is tantamount to swill, liquor tried once, associated with mistakes or “gincidents.” The term “bathtub gin” refers to any poorly made spirit. Recently the stain has faded, and gin has moved toward a more prominent place on bar shelves, due in large part to the efforts of craft distillers and bartenders who champion craft cocktails. “What we saw as bartenders in the last five or six years or so was a real explosion, especially in American gins,” says Mark Schettler, general manager at Bar Tonique (820 N. Rampart St., 504-324-6045; www. bartonique.com) and president of New Orleans’ chapter of the United States Bartenders’ Guild. Prior to that, gin generally fell into one of three categories: genever (sweeter gin associated with the Netherlands), London dry gin and Old Tom, which sits in the middle in terms of sweetness. But distillation laws were relaxed within the U.S., allowing for more experimentation, more spice and new flavors. New American gin emerged, and consumers took note. “I think what [American craft distilleries] are trying to do is offer something other than that traditional London ‘dry,’ really harsh gin people are used to,” says Robby Farmer, bar manager at Bayona (430 Dauphine St., 504-525-4455; www. bayona.com). “These new gins are a little more elegant, have floral notes, are a little smoother — just more accessible to people who normally wouldn’t like that really harsh, piney gin.” Tucked under the South Broad Street overpass, Atelier Vie is one such distillery. Founder Jedd Haas opens its doors to the public for tastings from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. He agrees that traditional gins can be off-putting, overpowering or both — and he admits he disliked gin the first time he tried it. “There’s a huge blast of juniper, and maybe not so much else, flavorwise,” he says of typical British-style gins. The result is an oft-overlooked spirit, which drinkers now are revisiting. “Guests are more comfortable ordering gin cocktails,” Schettler says. “They trust the category a little bit more.”
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WINE + SPIRITS
Cellar prices NATALIE MACLEAN’S TIPS ON FINDING CHEAP WINE
CHEAP
WINE
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BY B R E N DA M A I T L A N D
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WHO DOESN’T LIKE A WINE BARGAIN? But surely there’s more to discovering inexpensive wines than picking through Costco bins. In her book Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass, trained sommelier and wine writer Natalie MacLean (www.nataliemaclean.com) explores the world of wine, from the cellars of historic French wineries to the influences of wine critics. In her 2011 follow-up Unquenchable: A Tipsy Quest for the World’s Best Bargain Wines (Perigree), she shared tips on finding the best wines at affordable prices. “As a wine cheapskate, I look for wines that taste twice as expensive as they cost,” MacLean told Gambit in an interview. After realizing that most wines from the best-known regions from Tuscany to Bordeaux to Napa Valley had become pricey, MacLean scoured wine racks and new-world wineries looking for hidden gems. “The world of wine is constantly changing, with new vintages, techniques and producers coming onto the scene every year,” she wrote. “I think you can find real bargains in regions trying to establish themselves, like Argentina and Chile, or reinvent themselves, like Germany and Austria,” she told Gambit. “Ultra fashionable wine regions often get all the attention for any particular country, as do Italy’s Tuscany and Piedmont and France’s Bordeaux and Burgundy. Look for the lesser-known regions for your best value bottle, like Sicily in Italy and southern France’s Languedoc-Roussillon,” she wrote. In Sicily, MacLean found pleasing and affordable wines such as Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso, Planeta Nero d’Avola and wines by Donnafugata. In Germany, she dug up value-priced rieslings including Dr. Loosen’s Dr. L Riesling, St. Urbans-Hof Kabinett Riesling, St. Urbans Hof Riesling and St. Urbans-Hof Urban Riesling. Maclean recommends sampling wines from new or “late blooming” regions, as wines
Wine writer Natalie MacLean’s Unquenchable details her approach to finding bargain wines. establishing themselves in the market can deliver in terms of price and quality. In Argentina, she unearthed Alamos malbec and torrontes (Catena), Bodega Norton malbec and torrontes, Santa Julia malbec, Bodega Argento, Don Miguel Gascon, Graffigna Wines, Kaiken Premium Wines and Terrazas de los Andes. MacLean also explored South Africa’s wineries and found good value in wines from producers including Graham Beck Wines, Ken Forrester Vineyards, Mulderbosch Vineyards, Sebeka Wines, The Wolftrap and Hamilton Russell Vineyards. She found impressive sauvignon blancs, chenin blancs, chardonnays, shirazes, pinotages, cabernet sauvignons and pinot noirs. MacLean recommends first exploring a new region with familiar grapes and branching out from there. But her best advice is simple and affordable. “Buy a case of wine in your price point and experiment. Have fun with it and de-risk the experience by telling yourself it’s an experiment,” she says.
WINE + SPIRITS
Hot take
SPICY
PAIRING WINE WITH SPICY DISHES FOOD BY B R E N DA M A I T L A N D
restaurant with the same pho and other dishes like our neighborhood Asian eateries prepare,” Jeff says. “The Asian peoples who developed this cuisine lived an entirely different way — without the influence of wine in their food and drink culture.” The restaurant offers 20 beers and 19 wines, all available by the glass. “When we initially opened … we saw that the Vietnamese pantry did not lend itself to a large variety of wine styles,” Jeff says. “We continued our efforts to find interesting pairings looking along lesser-traveled paths for wines that could partner with the amount of spice and seasoning that the dishes call for.” Chicken wings get spice from lemon grass and Thai chilies, and Jeff recommends pairing them with Austrian Szigeti Gruner Veltliner sparkling wine. He points to another sparkling wine, Argentinian Baja Tanga Rose Sec Cuvee, for fried shrimp spring rolls, crispy Brussels sprouts and fried P & J oysters. “This rose sparkler lends itself to these kinds of dishes with that saltiness and crunchiness,” Jeff says. “The wine’s fruit-forward style balances the pairing with its clean effervescence and structure.” Jeff also suggests drinking Leitz Out riesling with MoPho’s fried oysters. “The wine is crisp, with a pleasing minerality and low residual sugar,” he says. At the late chef Paul Prudhomme’s French Quarter restaurant K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen (416 Chartres St., 504-596-2530; www.kpauls.com) he adapted Cajun recipes for a fine dining environment. Prudhomme’s approach to Cajun cooking featured well-seasoned dishes with more nuance and subtlety than spicy heat. General Manager Brenda Prudhomme-Miller, Paul’s niece, and her husband, executive chef Paul Miller, maintain a wine list with more than 150 bottles. Chicken and andouille gumbo has a dark roux and fragrant seasonings and Prudhomme-Miller recommends pairing it with Educated Guess cabernet sauvignon. She recommends California’s Rombauer chardonnay with blackened Louisiana drum. A blackened stuffed pork chop with marchand de vin goes with The Prisoner, she says. For beef tenderloin medallions blackened in a cast iron skillet and served with debris sauce. Prudhomme-Miller suggests a pairing with Orin Swift Cellar’s Saldo zinfandel. WS
Antoines 713 St. Louis St. | 504.581.4422 www.antoines.com Vintner Dinner with five-course menu featuring wines from Antinori & Antica Napa Valley, May 26 at 7pm, $125. Beachbum Berry’s Latitude 29 321 N. Peters St. | 504.609.3811 latitude29nola.com Exotic drinks & chow. Happy Hour 3-6pm daily, Fridays noon-6pm. The Blue Crab 7900 Lakeshore Dr. | 504.284.2898 thebluecrabnola.com Happy Hour Tuesday-Friday 4-6:30pm Breaux Mart Supermarkets Multiple locations | breauxmart.com Fine selection of light-bodied, crisp & fruity wines for Summer. The Carousel Bar & Lounge Hotel Monteleone | 214 Royal St. hotelmonteleone.com Have a drink at the famous bar. The Cheezy Cajun 3325 St. Claude Ave. | 504.265.0045 TheCheezyCajun.com Loaded Bloody Mary and other specialty cocktails, wine and beer. Concerts in the Courtyard Historic New Orleans Collection 533 Roayl St. | 504.523.462 www.hnoc.org Honey Island Swamp Band, May 20, 6-8pm. White wine & craft beer available. Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House www.bourbonhouse.com Bone Bourbon Cocktail Event, May 18 at 6:30pm. Mauritson Vinter Dinner, May 26 at 7pm. Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse www.dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com LA Craft Beer Dinner, May 19 at 6:30pm. Erin Rose 811 Conti St. | 504.522.3573 erinrosebar.com Famous Bloody Mary. Katie’s Restaurant & Bar 3701 Iberville St. | 504.488.6582 katiesinmidcity.com Wednesday Steak Night with $5 martinis & house wine. Happy Hour 3-6pm daily. Kingfish Kitchen & Cocktails 337 Chartres St. | 504.598.5005 kingfishneworleans.com Happy Hour 3:30-6pm 7 days a week: 1/2 off wine by the glass and all draft beer, $5 appetizers, live music 6-8pm.
GAMBIT ADVERTISER DIRECTORY
Recipient of Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence five years in a row. Martin Wine Cellar 714 Elmeer Ave., Metairie | 3827 Baronne St. 70th Anniversary party with music, wine tasting, appetizers & more May 24, 5-7pm Martine’s Lounge 2347 Metairie Road | 504.831.8637 Summer cocktails. Happy Hour 1-7pm daily; $1 off all doubles, $2 domestics, $3.50 wells, $2 shot with any beer. Mulate’s Restaurant 201 Julia St. | 504.522.1492 www.mulates.com Hand-crafted cocktails and 35+ beers available every day. New Orleans Aerial Tours 504.241.9131 | flynola.com Enjoy a sightseeing flight with wine & cheese.
New Orleans Wine & Food Experience May 26-29 | nowfe.com Enjoy food & wine pairings from over 75 Louisiana chefs with 1,000 vintages from 175 wineries around the world. Nola Beans 762 Harrison Ave. | 504.267.0783 Now serving beer, wine, Mimosa, Bloody Mary & more Nonna Mia 3125 Esplanade Ave. | 504.948.1717 Monday & Tuesday: $5 pitchers or Abita or Peroni, 50% off wine Pal’s Lounge 949 N. Rendon | 504.488.PALS Seasonal Summer Cocktails. Parkway Bakery & Tavern 538 Hagan Ave. | 504.483.3047 parkwaypoorboys.com Happy Hour 3-7pm Wednesday-Monday: $5 Parkway Specialty Cocktails, $3 Local Beers, $5 Gravy Cheese Fries (with alcohol Purchase). Patrick’s Bar Vin Hotel Mazarin | 730 Bienville St. 504.200.3180 | patricksbarvin.com Happy Hour 4-7pm Monday-Thursday; $3 domestic beers, $4 well liquors, $5 Patrick’s Best Kept Secret wine. Pearl Wine Co. 3700 Orleans Ave. | 504.483.6314 pearlwineco.com Summer Series starts May 26: farmer’s market 3-7pm, free wine tasting 5-7pm, live music 8pm. Restaurant R’evolution 777 Bienville St. | 504.553.2277 revolutionnola.com From contemporary twists to vintage cocktails.
The Kerry Irish Pub 331 Decatur St. | 504.527.5954 www.kerryirishpub.com Voted Best Guiness in New Orleans
Riccobono’s Peppermill 3524 Severn Ave. | 504.455.2266 www.riccobonos.com 40th anniversary specials on dishes & cocktails, June 1-15, excluding Sundays.
Louisiana Pizza Kitchen French Quarter 95 French Market Place 504.522.9500 www.lpkfrenchquarter.com
The Tasting Room New Orleans 1906 Magazine St. Taste of Germany starting May 13 with flights featuring Sekt, Reisling, Rosé, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir
G A M B I T ’ S WINE & SPIRITS 2016 > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > M AY 1 7 > 2 0 1 6
IT’S EASY TO ORDER A MARGARITA WITH SPICY MEXICAN FOOD OR A BEER WITH PEPPERY CAJUN FARE. But many restaurants offering spicy Latin, Asian or Louisiana dishes have wine lists designed to match their dishes. Wines with crisp acidity and lower alcohol levels, such as New Zealand sauvignon blancs, complement spicy heat in a variety of cuisines. Slightly sweet aromatic whites like Germanstyle rieslings and gewurztraminers and Spanish verdejo and txakolina also are good pairings. Other options include Champagne or sparkling wines and dry roses. With red wines, high alcohol and oaky wines tend to overwhelm even spicy dishes. Good options are lighter, low-tannin, fruity wines like grenache or Beaujolais, but with just a little chill. At John Besh and Aaron Sanchez’s upscale taqueria Johnny Sanchez (930 Poydras St., 504-304-6615; www.johnnysanchezrestaurant.com), the menu is driven by the Mexican cuisine Sanchez ate as a child in his mother’s restaurant. The wine list features nearly 20 wines, and all are available by the glass. “I love to pair Gulf fish tiradito with Campo Viejo Brut Rose Cava, a crisp sparkling rose from Spain that enhances the fresh acidic tiradito with its lime, avocado, papaya and jalapeno flavors,” says General Manager John Melnyk. Melnyk also recommends cava with shrimp ceviche with charred habanero-coconut vinaigrette, lime and pickled onions. “With a bright acidic dish like this, the bubbles in this wine cut right through the acid.” One of Sanchez’s favorite producers is Terrazas de los Andes, a winemaker in Mendoza, Argentina. “Their malbec is lush and full of dark fruit that blends perfectly with our woodgrilled carne asada,” Melnyk says Spain’s Herencia Garnacha Negra goes with arroz con pollo, woodgrilled chicken served with crispy fried rice, roasted poblano and serrano peppers, avocado, Cotija cheese and roasted tomatoes. “This wine, with just a touch of a chill on it, can pair well with this smoky dish,” Melnyk says. Brothers Michael and Jeff Gulotta and Jeffrey Bybee opened the Asian-inspired MoPho (514 City Park Ave., 504-482-6845; www.mophonola.com). Michael Gulotta formerly was chef de cuisine at Restaurant August and was named to Food & Wine magazine’s 2016 class of Best New Chefs. “Our prevailing philosophy was not to be a traditional Vietnamese
WINE & SPIRITS
AC Lounge 221 Carondelet St. | 504.962.0700 achotels.marriott.com Serving craft cocktails & tapas. Toast on Tap daily at 5pm, Happy Hour 4-7pm.
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G A M B I T ’ S WINE & SPIRITS 2016 > B E S T O F N E WO R L E A N S . C O M > M AY 1 7 > 2 0 1 6
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Time For
Another
Round Whether your night in the French Quarter is winding up or down, take a spin at the famous Carousel Bar & Lounge. Enjoy live music, gorgeous views of Royal Street, and a seat at the Carousel itself — where for 65 years patrons like Capote, Hemingway, and Tennessee Williams have spun their evenings and their stories.
214 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA
IN HOTEL MONTELEONE, NEW ORLEANS • VISIT www.hotelmonteleone.com/entertainment/carousel-bar/ FOR ENTERTAINMENT SCHEDULE