NEW CLOTH MARKET - MARCH 2019 by Texman

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I NDIAN INDUSTRIAL AND MANAGEMENT SERVICES (IIMS) 39/1, Pankaj Society, Bhatha, Paldi, AHMEDABAD-380007. INDIA Phone : 079-26602515 Mobile : 9824356125 (Editor Mobile :987926 0064)

www.newclothmarketonline.com E-mail : iimsad1@gmail.com EDITORIAL BOARD

MARCH 2019 (VOL. 33, NO. 3)

CONTENTS

Dr. Anandjiwala R. : Business Area Manager, CSIR, South Africa Bhatia Kailash

: CEO-IMG, Pantaloon Retail (I) Ltd.

Jasuja G.D.

: IIMS, Ahmedabad

Dr. Mittal R.M.

: President (Technology & Strategy) Morarjee Goculdas Spg. & Wvg. Co. Ltd., Mumbai

Dr. Oza K.I.

: Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad

Prof. Patel M.R.

: Ex-Principal, Vishwakarma Govt. Engg. College, Ahmedabad

Dr. Paul Roshan

: Head, Research, Function & Care Dept., Hohenstein Institute, Germany

Dr. Rajan V.S.

: Technical Advisor, Filter Fabrics

Sadhu M.C.

: Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad

Dr. Saxena Y.K.

: Consultant, Industrial Environment

Somani Sampat

: G.M.-Fibre Dyeing, Bhilwara Processors Ltd., Bhilwara

Dr. Shroff J.J.

: Advisor (R&D), Arvind Mills Ltd.

Edited and Published by G. D. Jasuja on behalf of the owners Indian Industrial and Management Services, Ahmedabad.

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"INDIAN INDUSTRIAL & MANAGEMENT SERVICES" 39/1, Pankaj Society, Bhatha, Paldi, AHMEDABAD-380007. INDIA Mobile : 9824356125 Ph : 26632831 Managing Editor and Publisher : G.D. JASUJA

EDITORIAL : GSP: ALTERING PREFERENTIAL STATUS IS ‘SIGNIFICANT’ OR ‘INSIGNIFICANT’?

11 EXECUTIVE PAGES * * * * * * * * * * * *

58th Joint Technological Conference (JTC) at NITRA R&D Projects (2017-18) at NITRA Interlining Finish from Kunal Gripping Technology: Ultimate Sewing Solution Hohenstein Academy: The E-learning Experience Bonding vs. Sewing: Application in Sports Wear Colourtex 1-Pass Recipe for Kimaya Sarees MTEX Eagle: Present is ‘dyeing’ and future is here! Ketoprep-LA (Conc): A Novel Bleaching Aid Is 3D body Scanning the Future of Fashion? 80th Anniversary Celebrations of TAI-Ahmedabad Formaldehyde-free Binders from CHT

31 LIST OF INDL. ENTREPRENEURS' MEMORANDUM: TEXTILE & ALLIED SECTORS (DECEMBER 2018) 36 LIST OF NEW TEXTILE & ALLIED COMPANIES REGISTERED WITH ROCS (FEBRUARY 2019) 43 SURFACE MODIFICATION OF COTTON USING SLAUGHTERHOUSE WASTES FABRIC WET PROCESSING

49 INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES * * * * *

Textile Sustainability Firmly in Sight 2019 International Woolmark Prize METI Study on Improvement of Quality of Life Highlights From MAGIC February 2019 International News & Technological Developments

65 NEWS BRIEFS

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NCM-MARCH 2019 NEW CLOTH MARKET, MARCH 2019

NEW CLOTH MARKET The Complete Monthly Textile Magazine from Textile Technologists

Published by

IIMS AHMEDABAD

ADVISORY BOARD Dr. Bhat Prabhakar Dr. Deo H.T. Mr. Garde A.R. Mr. Jain K.C. Mr. Lekhadia Atul Dr. Patel B.B. Mr. Shah H.K.

: : : : : : :

Head - Textile Dept., Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology & Science, Indore. Ex Professor (Fibre Chemistry), U.D.C.T., Bombay. Ex-Director, ATIRA Processing Manager, Bhilwara Suitings, Bhilwara Managing Director, Kunal Organics Pvt. Ltd. Professor of Economics, Gandhi Labour Institute, Ahmedabad FinancialAdviser, ANZ Exports (India), Ahmedabad

TECHNICAL COMMITTEE Mr. Ahmed H. Mr. Bhagat A.D. Mr. Dalal C.R. Mr. Deepak Agrawal Mr. Gupta P.K. Mr. Hardik Shah Dr. Jamdagni Rishi Mr. Kapoor Ajay Dr. Mahapatra N.N. Mr. Mehta A.K. Mr. Patel Kiritkumar V. Mr. Ramesh Shah Mr. Sanghvi Lalit Mr. Shukla K.S. Mr. Shukla Pankaj Mr. Thukral P.S. Mr. Vasudva K.N. Mr. VC Patel Mr. Vijay Dhar Prof. (Dr.) Wasif A. I.

: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :

Retd. Officer Incharge, Textile Committee, Govt. of India, Ministry of Textiles, Ahmedabad Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad Technical Consultant, Ahmedabad Director, Sparkle Tex Fab Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad Director, Anant Polyesters Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad Marketing Director, Embee Corporation, Ahmedabad Ex. Director, Technological Institute of Textiles (TIT), Bhiwani Technical Manager, Reliance Textile Industries, Ahmedabad Business Head (Dyes), Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd., Mumbai General Manager (Fabric Processing) Bhilwara Processors Ltd., Bhilwara CEO, Astha Creations, Ahmedabad Director, Adman Forex & Services Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad Textile Processing Consultant, Ahmedabad Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad President (Marketing), Comet Chemicals, Ahmedabad Design & Development Consultant (Thukral Consultex), Ahmedabad Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad CEO, Perfect Laboratory, Ahmedabad GM (Processing), Ahmedabad Dyeing & Printing, Ahmedabad Ex-Principal, D.K.T.E. Society's Textile & Engg. Institute, Ichalkarnji

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GSP: Altering Preferential Status is ‘Significant’ or ‘Insignificant’? The US administration’s withdrawal of the generalized system of preferences (GSP) status for India is being discussed by all the stakeholders including exporters of ready-made garments because the US accounts for 30-35% of exports of this sector. There is no clear indication as to how much negative impact this would cause on India's exports to the US, if at all there is going to be any effect. Around $5.6 billion worth of exports from India - covering 1,784 textiles, engineering, gems and jewellery and chemical products - will be impacted when the decision comes into force by May this year. If we look at the pattern of the decision making involved in this case by the US Department of Commerce, it is abundantly clear that the process was initiated after the US dairy and medical devices sectors lobbied against India's so-called trade barriers affecting their exports. If the statement of the US commerce secretary, Wilbur Ross, is any indication, the final trigger could have come when India announced 'stringent e-commerce rules' that negatively affected two of the giant US companies Amazon and Walmart-owned Flipkart. Analysts are already divided into two groups. One that fears, and believes, that withdrawal of the GSP is going to be the beginning of an ugly trade war between India and the US which will significantly change the India-U.S. trade relations. Already, some analysts believe that India may allow proposed retaliatory duties on 29 US imports that have been deferred six times to kick in from April 1. Trade associations have been hesitant to openly acknowledge the full impact of the loss of the GSP status saying that it may not have a major impact on India’s garments exports. Some others say the effect will be insignificant. Still some others have a mixed reaction. "The impact would be minimal. But under the present circumstances when exports are already dropping, the government should compensate manufacturers any price increase through subsidy or incentives." Look at another cautious comment: "The decision would certainly have a bearing on the exports to the US and this comes at a time when the made-in-India items, on the US turf, are already grappling with stiff competition, with items especially from China and Vietnam." Only time will tell what is going to be the real scenario once India loses the GSP status. But one important impact that is not finding enough space for discussion is the loss of jobs it will lead to. GSP is meant largely for those export-oriented items manufacturing of which is labour-intensive. So, if the GSP is withdrawn, it will adversely impact jobs in an already depressing job market. This is perhaps because it will fall upon the new central government to address the issue of joblessness in May. Only time will tell what is going to be the real scenario once India loses the GSP status. But one important impact that is not finding enough space for discussion is the loss of jobs it will lead to. GSP is meant largely for those export-oriented items manufacturing of which is labour-intensive. So, if the GSP is withdrawn, it will adversely impact jobs in an already depressing job market. This is perhaps because it will fall upon the new central government to address the issue of joblessness in May. G.D. JASUJA Managing Editor

WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? NCM-MARCH 2019 7

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R&D Projects (2017-18) at Northern India Textile Research Association, Ghaziabad Completed Projects Project: Development of fabric smoothness tester (Sponsored by Ministry of Textiles, GoI) Objectives: -

To design the apparatus as per the requirement of the concept

To take preliminary trials on the developed/ fabricated apparatus to verify/optimize the suitability of design and to modify accordingly (if required)

To analyze smoothness properties of various fabrics using newly developed/fabricated apparatus.

Research Outcome: -

Design work is completed.

Verification of design and development of apparatus completed.

Analysis of woven and knitted fabric is completed and results are compared with Kawabata system for verification.

Patent has been filed.

Project completed. Report preparation work is going on.

58th Joint Technological Conference (JTC) held at NITRA Joint Technological Conference is an annual feature of India’s premier textile research associations ATIRA, BTRA, SITRA and NITRA. Major technical developments based on R&D by TRAs during the year, are presented and deliberated in the conference. The 58th edition of this event was hosted by NITRA at its campus in Ghaziabad on 15th Feb. 2019. It was inaugurated by Sh.S.K. Kapoor Chairman NITRA & MD Surya Processors Limited. Sh. Rajkumar Jain Vice Chairman NITRA ,Dr Anjan Mukhopadhyay Director BTRA,Shri Prakash Vasudevan Director SITRA ,Shri MN Subramaniam Director ATIRA and Dr Arindam Basu DG NITRA also graced the occasion. Gen. V. K. Singh, hon’ble MoS for External Affairs illuminated the 58th JTC as Chief Guest. He expressed happiness over the activities and achievements of the four TRAs. Gen. Singh was particularly satisfied with NITRA’s R&D and product developments in the area of Protective Textiles and also suggested a few new areas where NITRA can work.

Project: Development of Electronic Drape Meter Based on Image Analysis Technique (Sponsored by Department of Science & Technology, Govt. of India) Electronic drape meter based on image analysis technique Objectives: -

To develop an instrument to measure fabric drape using image analysis principle

To measure the accuracy of the developed instrument.

Research Outcome: -

An electronic fabric drape tester has been developed which will remove human bias and reduce the testing time drastically.

The results will be very useful for the fabric processors, garment and home textile manufacturers & big testing laboratories.

Technology to manufacture NITRA Electronic Drape tester has been transferred to M/s. Dinu Technologies, Coimbatore.

Project: Development of Smart Protective Textiles for Fire Fighter, Soldiers and Oldage People (Sponsored by Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India) NCM-MARCH 2019 11

Objectives:

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To develop smart/intelligent textiles to be used by fire fighters and soldiers

To develop smart textiles for old age people for continuously monitoring their health condition from distance.

To assess the performance of those garments at laboratory level.

To take field trial with real fighters, soldiers & old age people.

Felicitation of NITRA Employees On the backdrop of 58th JTC at NITRA, Chief Guest Gen. V. K. Singh, Honâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ble MoS for External Affairs felicitated nine NITRA employees who have completed 25 years of dedicated service to NITRA. He also vowed to the dedication of those employees.

Research Outcome: -

Garment has been developed using conductive yarn.

Logics for communication from heart rate and body temperature have been finalized.

In-house trials of the fabric have started.

Fabric and conductive fibre has been identified.

Garments have been stitched & laboratory trials were conducted.

As per decision of 8th PAC Meeting dated 23.3.18, the project has been closed.

Ongoing Projects Project: Development of Protective Workwear for Cement Porters (Sponsored by Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India) Objectives: -

To determine the magnitude of occupational health hazards among cement porters.

To design and standardize dustproof and comfortable material such as gloves, socks and workwear for cement porters which can suit the climatic and working conditions.

To evaluate effectiveness of the developed material in actual practice and standardization of test methods.

Progress of work: -

Fabric samples were developed after intensive survey of cement user/ manufacturers.

Fabric dust proof property analyzer has been fabricated and a patent has been filed.

Designing of work wear and verification work is in progress.

Project: Development of Multi Layered Flame & Thermal Resistant Fabric for Fire-Fighter Clothing (Sponsored by Ministry of Textiles, GoI) Objectives: -

To study existing fire fighter clothing/suit NCM-MARCH 2019 12

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being used in India for their suitability related to safety and other physiochemical properties. -

To study fire fighter/clothing suit used in developed country for their safety and physiochemical properties.

To identify gaps in the existing fire fighter suits being used in Indian fire fighters in comparison to fire fighter suits of developed country.

Development of multilayered fabrics using various weaves structure, fibres composition and finishing applications in the manufacturing of fibre fighter suit.

To evaluate multilayered fabrics for its performance for safety and other physiochemical properties as per standard.

Development of fire fighter clothing/suit.

Tech-Tex 2019 at NITRA On 16th Feb. 2019 NITRA organized Tech-Tex 2019, a conference on protective & automotive textiles. Present on the occasion were heads of ATIRA, BTRA and NITRA along with officials from several defense outfits and professionals from the industry. DG NITRA Dr. Arindam Basu spoke about technical textiles industry and detailed about NITRAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work through its CoE. Nine papers were presented in Tech-Tex 2019 by organizations such as Indian army, ITBP, CRPF, BIS, SMPP, RSWM, Marvel Vinyls and SITRA. Host NITRA also presented one paper. Latest publications of NITRA, four Hindi editions of Textile & Apparel Booklet, known as TABlet series in the industry, was also released during Tech-Tex 2019.

Progress of work: -

Fire fighter suits were procured and their physiochemical properties were evaluated.

Gaps were identified.

Development of multilayered fabric for fire fighter suit is under progress.

Evaluation of developed material is going on simultaneously.

Provisional patent has been filed for thermal layer.

Project: New Approaches to Reduce Water Consumption in Textile Wet Processing (Sponsored by Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India) Objectives: -

To conduct preliminary trials to test suitability for various dyes, used for textile material.

Designing and fabrication of equipment for dyeing and standardization

Conducting dyeing trial on various types of textile materials

To compare dyed material out of new approach Objectives: and conventional dyeing method in terms of - To standardize a method for extraction of fibers from quality and consumption of water. Pine Needles, Indian Flax, Nettle etc. Progress of work: - Development of machines for extraction of fibres. - Preliminary trials in various units are in - To produce yarn with pure fibres and blends by optiprogress. mizing mechanical parameters - Designing work of equipment for dyeing is in - To develop various kinds of fabric utilizing those progress. yarns - Various approaches of dyeing are being tested - To develop final products i.e. or home textile using to conserve water. these fabrics Project: Development of Value Added Products from Different Fibres in Himalayan Re- Progress of work: gion (Sponsored by Ministry of Textiles, GoI) - Cultivation of flax fibres has been done. NCM-MARCH 2019 13

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Extraction of fibre from Pine leaves have been stan- Project: Treatment of khadi cotton fabric with dardized. herbal extract for developing reusable baby diapers Analysis of the fibres are in progress.

Machinery manufacturers has been identified & Objectives: purchase process is in progress. - To test the physical and functional properties of Khadi cotton fabric. - A patent has been filed regarding extraction of textile grade fibre from pine needles. - To treat this fabric with anti-odor, anti-microbial and mosquito repellent finishes obtained In-House Completed Projects: from herbal extracts. Project: Extraction of textile fibres from pine needle - To test the effect of these natural finishes on and development of various products from it. functional properties of the Khadi cotton fabObjectives: ric. - To develop a method for extraction of fibers from - To use this Khadi cotton fabric to develop repine needles. usable diapers for babies. - To produce yarn with pure fibres and blends by - To test the durability of these natural finishes optimising mechanical parameters. on Khadi cotton fabric when it is in use. - To develop various kinds of fabric utilising these Research Outcome: yarns - Microcapsules have been formed. - To develop final products i.e. home textile using - Application of finishes on fabric using pad dry these fabrics. cure method has been done. Research Outcome: - Testing of finished fabrics have been com- Preliminary study on extraction of fibre from pine pleted. needle has been done. - Out of identified 15 samples, one sample was -

Extracted fibres are blended with other fibres for manufacturing of yarn.

Few fabric samples were developed.

found to be qualifying all the requirement of reusable baby diapers. -

Reusable baby diapers have been developed.

The evaluation of these fabrics have been com- - Project has been completed. pleted. Project: A study on extraction and application - This project has been converted in to the Ministry of sugarcane fibres in textiles. of Textiles sponsored project “Development of value Objectives: added product from different fibres in Himalayan To explore extraction of fibres from the sugarcane Region”. bagasse and develop pure and blended sugarcane Project: Development of work wear for electroplat- yarns using natural man-made fibres. ing workers Research Outcome: Objectives: - Fibres have been extracted & treated with vari- To study & analyze the work wear clothing of workous chemicals & enzymes to get finer & smooth ers in the plating industry and comparing it with the fibres. recommended standards to identify gaps if any. - Extracted fibres have been converted into yarn. - To develop suitable fabric for work wear using variFabrics and other products have been develous fibre compositions, weave structures and finoped. ishing treatments followed by analysis to understand whether the fabric is meeting the requirement - Evaluation of characteristics are completed. as per recommended standards. - Few products have been developed which indicated that there is a potential of application - To design/develop work wear clothing to meet the of sugarcane fibre in textiles. safety and comfort requirements of the workers. Research Outcome:

Project has been completed.

The Project has been completed. Two fabric samples were found to be qualifying all the requirements of electro-plating worker’s work wear amongst 20 fabric samples, identified initially.

Ongoing In-House Projects: Project: Investigation on process variables on functional properties of cotton/corn blended fabric.

NCM-MARCH 2019 14

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Objectives:

To take field trial of developed fabric in actual practice and modified, if required.

To have critical study of the properties of corn fiProposed Projects bres.

To produce yarn samples using corn fibres with dif- Project: Development of Improved Body Protector for Defence Forces Sponsoring Agency: ferent manufacturing process variables To produce fabric using yarn samples produced from Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India

corn fibres using different parameters

Objectives:

To have detailed investigation on the behavior of the process variables on the functional characteristics of the fabric

To apply statistical tools and prepare mathematical models for predicting the functional behavior of corn blended material

Progress of work: -

To process the corn/cotton blends rotor spinning system has been taken for the experiments.

Following variables have been chosen for the experiments during yarn manufacturing: Rotor speed; Blend proportion; Rotor diameter and Opening roller speed. Yarn evenness, imperfection and tensile properties -

EXECUTIVE

To study existing body protectors being used by Indian defence forces with respect to its suitability to protect them from various hazard like stabbing, impact and puncture. To evaluate the material to be used for various parts of body protector as per the requirement of para-military forces and Indian Climatic conditions To design and develop body protector for men and women paramilitary personnel. To evaluate body protector for its performance, for safety and other physiochemical properties as per existing defence standard To take field trial of developed body protector in actual practice and modified, if required.

were measured and the impact was assessed with Project: Development of stab, impact and puncthe change in the process variables. Preparation of fabric with the produced yarn is un- ture testing instrument for body protector Sponsoring Agency: Department of Science & der progress. Technology, Govt. of India Assessment of fabric performance will be done in terms of functional characteristics such as flam- Objectives: mability, abrasion resistance, air-permeability, an- - To design the instrument as per the requirement timicrobial properties etc. -

To develop/fabricate the instrument as per design

To develop product specifications for the Baby Towel, Baby Nappy, Baby inner, Baby Cap, Baby Socks and Motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gown.

To take preliminary trials on the developed/ fabricated apparatus to verify/optimize the suitability of design and if require to modify accordingly

Project: Development of New born baby kit Objectives:

Progress of work:

Product and Market survey completed. Recently Sanctioned Project Project: Development of Air Cleaner Home Textiles to Reduce Indoor Air Pollution

Contact details:

Objectives: -

To analyse body protector samples for stab and impact resistant properties using newly developed/fabricated apparatus and verify the tested results with the same samples tested in the international laboratory

Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA) Sector-23, Raj Nagar, Ghaziabad-201002 Ph:0120-2807390-95, 0120-2783586/592/638/095 To evaluate various finishing chemicals/materials Fax: 0120-2783596 having characteristics to absorb/reduce air polluE-mail: mail@nitratextile.org tion Understanding nature of air pollutions in the indoor places using primary and secondary data and preparing research design

To select suitable fabrics and apply selected finishing chemicals using various techniques

Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing.

To evaluate finished for various physico-chemical and performance properties.

Wernher von Braun German Scientist

NCM-MARCH 2019 15

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INTERLINING FINISH Interlining and Cuff Fabrics The interlining and cuff fabrics have to be imparted anti-shrink, resilient stiff finish. The recipe used must ensure minimum shrinkage and loss in stiffness during washing at different conditions. Sanforizing of the fabric before treatment will help in obtaining minimum shrink resistance and smoothness of the fabric surface. Addition of starch derivatives is also recommended for obtaining stiffness and addition of an optical brightener in the finishing bath is recommended to improve the whiteness. The effect on 100% cotton fabrics is found to be better than that on Polyester/Cotton blends. Finishing Recipe 115gpl 35gpl 60gpl 80gpl 9gpl 10gpl 3.25gpl

: : : : : : :

Maize Starch Fixer-200 (Melamine Formaldehyde Resin) Unimul-800 (Copolymer of Polyvinyl Acetate Emulsion) Unimul-MB (Plasticised Polyvinyl Acetate Emulsion) MgCl2 Uninol-PEL (Micro Emulsion of Polyethylene Wax Emulsion) Leucophor BFBI (Optical Brightening Agent)

Pigment Blue + Violet as per the whiteners requirement 1cc 2.5gpl

: :

Acetic Acid Wetting Agent

Application Method Stenter Pad Dry with Three Dips & Two Sqeeze Nips Speed 15 Metres Per Minute; 5 Compartment The main function of interlinings is to maintain reasonably good dimensional stability of apparel clothing. Generally, interlinings are made from fabrics consisting of cotton or spun rayon in warp and a rayon blended yarn in weft. Interlining may be described as supporting fabric which must have good firmness, and also the required elasticity and shape retention properties. These properties should remain intact even when the fabric is subjected to washing and dry cleaning. Interlining fabric should have good resistance to shrinkage. The stiffening agent used for finishing interlining cloth should have ability to form an elastic and tough film on the surface of the fabric. This film should withstand stresses caused due to repeated bending. Cotton and its blends with polyester are generally used for collar interlinings which have to be resistant to shrinkage, stiff as well as elastic. For washable apparels these properties should have considerable permanency. The selection of the stiffening agent depends on the properties expected from the finish which in turn depend upon the end usage of the interlinings produced through such finishing. A number of finishing products based on starches and starch derivatives, plastic dispersions, polyvinyl alcohol, dimethylol urea and other compounds are available in the market. One can have a cost effective result oriented recipe through judicious selection of such products depending on the end properties required from a particular interlining finish. The above recipe is just an illustration only. This page is sponsored by :

Kunal Organics Pvt. Ltd. : Leaders in New Generation Textile Processing Chemicals Address : 34, Madhuvan Towers, Madalpur, Ellis Bridge, Ahmedabad-380 006. Fax : 91-79-26409677 Email : mail@kunal.com NCM-MARCH 2019 16

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Automatic belt machine for gripper final bonding on tubular garments as shapewear

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Gripping Technology: Innovative Ideas for Ultimate Sewing Solutions from MACPI

MACPI 339.10: Automatic unit for gripper application on tubular garments as shapewear with automatic carrier removal. The Unit is configured with bottom post and motorized roller, 3-axis nozzle position, upper gripper heating through over-heated ale, tape tension control device, built-In vacuum device, motorized roller with differential effect Touch Screen for parameters setting and working cycle.

MACPI 339.20: Automatic belt machine for gripper final bonding on tubular garrnents as shapewear, The unit is configured with electric heated upper belt and cooled bottom belt in order to avoid any marks and/ or shining. Automatic and programmable sizing device, automatic switch-off, touch screen for parameters setting and working cycle.

MACPI 339.32: Automatic machine suitable for the application of a silione free gripper on circular garments. The unit can be configured with interchangeable head (top or bottom feeding) from 60 to 140 mm diameter. Automatic gripper cutting and recovery with simultaneous lay-down and bonding. All parameters are set by Touch Screen. Upon request the machine can be supplied with horizontal slitting device (max 2 blades) NCM-MARCH 2019 17

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Automatic three-shapes Bonding Carousel with Cooling Station

MACPI 514.37: Thanks to the constant innovation VACPI designed a unique carousel for bonding application. This unit is fitted with three vacuum bottom shapes and two head shapes: one is electric heated while the second one is cooled by air circulation which grants a perfect and faster adhesive polymerization. Maximum dimension of the head shapes 800 x 250 mm, Possibility to interchange the bottom bucks through a wide selection of shapes in order to maximize the production cycle. Touch Screen control for parameters setting. Adjustable pressure up to 6 bar. Technical Details

MACPI 514.37: Vertical Bonding Press Electro-pneumatic press with vertical descent. Electric heated shape with dimension of 500 x 500 mm. Two bottom vacuum shapes with possibility to interchange them thanks to a wide selection of shapes. Touch Screen control for parameters setting. Upon request the unit can be supplied with built- in vacuum and electric iron. MACPI 514.37

Model 339.10 - Dimension: (mm W x H x D) 1040 x 1500 x 750 Weight : 145 Kg; electric power: 2,4Kw - consumption 1,85 Kw/h; compressed air: pipe connection 1x ø10 mm - pressure 6 ATE - consumption 20NL/min Model 339.20 - Dimension: (mm W x H x D) 1300 x 1650 x 1200 Weight : 260 Kg; electric power: 4,5Kw - consumption 3,15 Kw/h; compressed air: pipe connection 1x ø10 mm - pressure 6 ATE; consumption 20NL/min Model 339.32 Dimension: (mm W x H x D) 1150 x 1400 x 760 Weight : 145 Kg; electric power: 2,4Kw; consumption 1,85 Kw/h; compressed air: pipe connection 1x ø10 mm - pressure 6 ATE - consumption 28NL/min Model 346 - Dimension: (mm W x H x D) 1080 x 1695 x 950 Weight : 245 Kg; electric power: 3Kw - consumption 2,1Kw/h; compressed air: pipe connection 1x ø10 mm - pressure 6 ATE - consumption 30NL/ min Model 514 - Dimension: (mm W x H x D) 1625 x 1500 x 1690 Weight : 450 Kg; electric power: 3,25Kw - consumption 2,6Kw/h; compressed air: pipe connection 1x ø10 mm - pressure 6 ATE - consumption 70NL/min Contact details: MACPI Trading India Pvt Ltd No 106, Shop No 2, 8th Cross, KHB Main Road, Kanaka Nagar , R. T. Nagar, Bangalore – 560032 Tel:23437741 Email: macpiblr@macpi.in

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Hohenstein Academy 2019: The E-learning Experience Since March Hohenstein is paving the way to modern learning worlds with the e-Academy. Digital and independent of time and location, the Academy thus offers access to valuable content from all areas and competences of the company to anyone who is interested. There are webinars, webcasts, tutorials and further digital formats in the following subject areas: - Textile basic knowledge - Comfort and performance - Clothing technology - Safety and sustainability - Laundering and cleaning - Medicine and healthcare The Academy is constantly expanding its digital offer. Fresh and new formats are always available - wherever and whenever you need them. This new offer provides the user with numerous benefits. Those interested no longer have to travel to Hohenstein to experience and learn new things firstThe Academy, the heart and centre of Hohenstein’s expertise, hand. Therefore, the Academy has is taking the step into the digital age. © Hohenstein devoted itself to the concept of blended learning. For example, the Academy will provide the traditionally well-attended basic laundry technology course modularly and will offer content both digitally and at events on site. Please find details in the course overview. Here, you will also find the courses of the subject areas comfort and performance. The experts teach in a tried and tested manner both on site in Hohenstein and, on request, at the customer’s facility. Hohenstein hopes that the realignment and digitization of the Academy will give it new impetus, above all, in the area of commercial laundry. The completely rebuilt There are webinars, webcasts, tutorials and further digital forAcademy will also develop a compre- mats in six different topic areas. © Hohenstein hensive course programme for proper linen care on behalf of the German Certification Association.

The Learning Experience Hohenstein Academy Starting March 4th Marc Rabah Head of Hohenstein Academy Email: academy@hohenstein.com

Hohenstein hopes that the realignment and digitisation of the Academy will give it new impetus, above all, in the area of commercial laundry. The completely rebuilt Academy will also develop a comprehensive course programme for proper linen care on behalf of the German Certification Association.

www.hohenstein-academy.com NCM-MARCH 2019 19

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Bonding vs. Sewing: Application in Sports Performance Wear To achieve innovative garments, apparel industries need to experiment and evaluate the available alternative technologies to identify the applicability and adoptability as to replace the traditional sewing techniques. Though sewing with needles and threads is the main joining method, there is a need to consider the modern bonding technique which is not widely used at present. It is beneficial not only to enhance the value of the performance wear but also to replace as a reliable alternative to traditional sewing techniques. Using the bonding technique, seams can be produced with good strength. The sewing and bonding are very strong joining techniques, but several studies have shown that bonding method is more reliable than sewing for constructing sports performance wear with respect to the seam strength. Introduction New alternative techniques for joining fabrics were emerged with the introduction of new fabrics and finishing techniques of textiles. Researchers (Laing, 1998; Jones and Wise, 2005; Jana, 2011) acknowledged three main forms of the alternative assembly techniques based on their application. 1. Fusing: Heat is applied to fuse resin on one side of the substrate. 2. Adhesive seaming: An adhesive is applied to the two surfaces to be joined. Seaming may take place with the application of heat (which is the more common process) or with the application of light pressure. 3. Welding: Melting of either one (single welding) or both plies is followed by application of pressure and a cooling period. Bonding is identified as an alternative for sewing or joining the fabric pieces together in apparels. There are several methods for constructing a bonded garment, depending on the specific application or the desired design. Bonding can be classified as thermal, ultrasonic, area, point, through-air, adhesive and radiant bonding (Laing, 1998; Hopkins, 1990; Dharmadhikari et al., 1995). Although the apparel industry interests on alternative techniques for producing high quality garments, the usage of bonding as a new technology is of less prominence in comparison to traditional stitching especially in sports wear manufacturing. Sri Lankan apparel manufacturers also use adhesives and bonding technology only for decorative purposes and currently the application of bonding for manufacturing of sports performance wear is considerably low. Considering the possibility of achieving seams with clean finish, there is an opportunity of replacing traditional sewing method with bonding technique. Niromi Seram and Thilini Nandasiri, both research scietists from the Dept. of Textile and Clothing Technology, University of Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, have evaluated the possibility of constructing the different seam types through the bonding route. In an experiment aimed at constructing different types of seams for various end applications, they produced Plain seam, French seam and Lap seam with four different types of fabrics. Adhesive bonding and sewing technology (lockstitch) were used to make these seam samples. Finally, an evaluation of these seams using industrial standards was performed to assess the strength of the constructed seams. To check the seam properties, seam strength test (Nike shear strength test) was conducted in a laboratory condition. Basically, seam strength depends on four factors: fabric, type of seam, needle and sewing yarn. Burtonwood and Chamberlain (Chmielowiec, 1987) acknowledged three main reasons for seam failure; due to thread breakages, due to fabric breakage and due to thread and fabric breakage. The above researchers have successfully constructed seams using adhesive bonding technique for the four selected fabrics. Seam strength of the tested seams Behavior of Plain seam: Majority of samples of the different types of fabrics used for the study had shown good results (Table 2). No bond failures and fabric ruptures were evident. However, results had indicated some fluctuations for sewn samples within some of the fabrics. This may be mainly due to the human errors during stitching process and the quality of the yarns used for stitching. On the other hand, the utilization of lockstitch which is more suitable for non-stretch than stretch materials for stitching may affect for the above discussed results. The results may be improved or changed if the sewing has done with the use of chain or over lock stitching. Almost 100% cotton fabric had shown the lowest strength than the rest of the fabrics. However, bonded seaming has proven as the strongest seam method in constructing plain seam showing the highest strength results for all the tested samples. NCM-MARCH 2019 20

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Behavior of French seam: The result had shown some differences within the different fabric types. It is evident that all the bonded seam samples had achieved very high values while the sewn seams had shown a low seam strength values (Table 3). Seam strength behavior of French seam constructed with bonding technique is much more reliable than sewn. No bond failures and fabric failures were seen during the testing process. In sewn seams, mostly the fabric failures were seen and there were some stitch failures too. The 12% spandex, 88% polyester fabric was one of the most suitable fabrics for constructing French seam with stitching. Behavior of Lap seam: Bonded lap seams had shown high strength values in all the fabric used for the study. However, it is clearly visible that the sewn lap seams had failed in seam strength test. Out of the used fabrics, 100% cotton fabric had shown the lowest bonded seam strength (Table 4). From this study, it can be concluded that not only the type of fabric and the fabric composition but also the type of technology used for the construction of seams affects the seam strength. It is clearly visible that though the strength of sewn seams was strong enough, their values were lower than the bonded seams. Further research may be carried out to investigate the behavior on a wider range of fabrics in terms of compositions, structure and weight. From the current study, diverse behavior from different types of fabrics was quite evident. Almost 100% polyester and 12% spandex, 88% polyester fabrics can be recommended as the most suitable for bonded flat seam and bonded plain seam whereas 100% polyester, 12% spandex, 88% polyester fabrics as the most reliable for bonded French seam. Moreover, the results have proven that 100% polyester fabrics are most reliable for sewn French seam. Other fabrics especially 100% cotton are not suitable for sewn plain and flat seam since the fabric and stitch failures were evident. In terms of the strength of the seams, the result shows that the bonded seam is the most reliable technique for constructing seams. Though the cost of the product is considerably high, the feeling of low friction can be offered to the wearer. However, stitching is more convenient than bonding in terms of operation cost and total processing time which can be used to earn profit. It could be interesting to extend this study further for chain stitch (single needle and double needle) and over lock stitching (three threads, four threads and five threads) with respect to the seam application of the sports performances wear. Moreover, the research can be further explored with the changing of the settings of the bonding machines such as speed and pressure depth. If the industry really wishes to promote the feeling of low friction to the wearer, as to enhance the value catered to customer, garment bonding can be recommended as one of the most suitable techniques to construct sports performance wear.

NCM-MARCH 2019 21

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Colourtex Recipe (Processing Sequence) for Wet Processing of Kimaya Saree (Single Pass Method) Fabric Details : Warp - 80/72/1750 Twist S.D. Roto 2S & 2Z. Weft - 80/72/1750 Twist S.D. Roto 2S & 2Z. Reed - 84/2 Pick - 64 Width - 51" Gross Wt.- 8.200 Ends - 4700 Process Sequence :

Druming (3600 mts) Cold Wash for 30 mins. Drain Levocol JD Levocol CHWS Caustic Soda

1500 gms. 1000 gms. 3000 gms.

At 130 C/2 Hrs.

Drain

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Cold wash (20 min) Drain Jet Dyeing M/c. (3600 mts) – Weight Reduction Levocol CHWS Caustic Soda

1500 gms 2 -3 gms per meter. (6 – 8 kgs.)

110 C for 45 min

Drain and hot/cold wash. HCL Oxalic acid

4000 gms 1000 gms

90 C for 30 min

Cold rinse Levocol PB

1500 gms

Heat Setting Levocol PB Levocl CAN

500 gms 100 gms for 100 lits

190 C for 30- 45 sec. Shrinkage 15 – 16 %

Print – Dry at 140 C – Loop/Fixation at 170 C for 8 mins. Reduction Clearing and Hydro extract as per standard procedure Finishing on Stenter : Levofin SBI Levofin LF

1.0 % 0.5 %

175 C for 30 secs. And Zero – Zero Finish and Folding.

This page is sponsored by : Colourtex Industries Pvt. Ltd.

Email : totalsolutions@colourtex.co.in Website : www.colourtex.co.in

Colourtex Industries Pvt. Ltd. Surat This information is provided in good faith, to the best of our knowledge and without liabilities NCM-MARCH 2019 22

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Present is ‘dyeing’ and future is here! MTEX Eagle: New Solution Offers Unrivaled Speed with High-Quality & Hybrid Fixation According to Diogo Liz, MTEX EAGLE Product Manager, a recent report on "Future of Dye Sublimation Printing to 2023" has estimated that two of the 5 main factors pushing dye sublimation print market towards Euro 7.63 billion in 2023 are: 1. Personalisation – printing a unique design – has always been of key importance for some applications, like printing a promotional or show graphic signage for a business. 2. Low cost as the prime motivator in signage as brands and endusers increasingly use a point-of-sale or trade show display for only a few weeks before discarding, as it is not needed any longer.

Diogo Liz MTEX EAGLE Product Manager

The annoying news: You need to guarantee that you have a flexible printer capable of producing high-quality output at a high speed keeping the costs as low as possible. The good news: Liz says: "We have a solution! MTEX Eagle with its Panasonic 8/16 printheads, compared with Kyocera ones." MTEX Eagle has the following features: - Native resolution: 360 DPI vs. 300 DPI - Ink drop: 3-35 pl vs. 4-72 pl - Cost: 1/3 of the price All you need to speed up any job at hand and still guarantee a fine detail and sharp images at a high production mode of 304 sqm/h (720 DPI) thanks to its advanced mechanical and electronical structure.

Developed specifically for direct sublimation Print width

3,3 mts

Production mode Production mode

: :

304 sqm/h 720 dpi

Staggered heads Main markets

: :

16 Signage/Decor

In a message, Diogo Liz, MTEX EAGLE Product Manager, says:

MTEX Eagle is an industrial machine with unrivaled speeds quality ratio. What differentiates MTEX Eagle from our main competitors in the same market segment? It's a 3.2 wide machine capable of reaching 610 square meters an hour and resolution up to 1440 DPIs. As a hybrid integrated fixation unit that allows printing and in-line fixation in one step to speeds up to 120 square meters, or using line fixation just to dry the fabric and afterwards to use offline fixation with the calendar for speeds above 120 square meters/hr. MTEX Eagle has a modular structure from eight to 16 heads coming out of print heads and mainly development in house 100% made by MTEX. Now just please come to our Customer Innovation Center and try the MTEX Eagle. MTEX EAGLE Speed Chart is given on the next page along with the unique features of the MTEX Eagle. NCM-MARCH 2019 23

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MTEX EAGLE Speed Chart 16 heads 4 colors sqm/h

1 PASS 610 360x360 dpi

2 PASS 304 360x720 dpi

4 PASS 152 720x720 dpi

8 PASS 76 720x1440 dpi

16 heads 4 colors sqm/h

1 PASS 305 360x360 dpi

2 PASS 152 360x720 dpi

4 PASS 76 720x720 dpi

8 PASS 38 720x1440 dpi

Magnetic Linear Motor: Provides high acceleration/deceleration ratios with extremely high accuracy of 1mic, no maintenance, no gearbox or belts.

Printhead Control Technology developed and certified by MTEX: All electronics was specifically designed and integrated with Mtex Firmware and Software

Designed and Engineered Degassing System: This allows the ink to be transported from the bottles to the print heads and only being degassed as close as possible to the print head.

Integrated fixation unit: High-resistance IR (infrared) individually controlled and accurated sensors for temperature control to achieve uniform, brilliant and vivid colors in full width. Stainless steel fixation unit for easy maintenance.

Technical Benchmark Dot Advanced Positioning (DAP): DAP is an integrated system between the waveform, printheads and ink that enables automatic head alignment for maximum precision and lowest ink consumption. By offering a proprietary waveform rather than a generic one it guarantees an advanced control over the printheads which results into an unmatchable drop accuracy and consistent print results. DAP delivers its promise: the lowest ink consumption and maximum precision to obtain the highest quality output. Real Time Data Manufacturing Intelligence for the Next Industrial Revolution: Better business decisions start with the best customersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; intelligence. MACAW is a unique intellectual property software designed to bring you a complete, end-to-end solution that addresses the specific needs of your business. This predictive software enables through a single unified interface to manage real time your stock, consumables and media over your producNCM-MARCH 2019 24

8 bottle capacity, for 4/8 colors configuration: With 4 colors configuration, we can install 2 bottles per color and automatically switch from empty bottle to filled bottle on the fly.

Rotative head wiping system: Innovative configuration removes nozzle contamination and wiper cleaning before any maintenance.

tion. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a powerful intuitive solution capable of giving precise ink consumption, energy saving, preventive maintenance, integrated database, robust reporting, and navigation capabilities. User Interface: Queuing; hot folder; print history (with print settings); ink consumption per job; print speed & temperatures; maintenance, head cleaning (choose specific heads); maintenance progress feedback; operator warning with recommended procedures to follow in real time; mandatory maintenance automatically disables printing to avoid severe damages and minimize repair costs. MTEX Solutions, Portugal www.mtex.eu

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Ketoprep-LA (Conc): A Novel Bleaching Aid which Saves Caustic Cotton is the most important natural fibre whose consumption is constantly increasing day by day. Natural cotton is hydrophobic and colored. Scouring is a purifying treatment of textiles. The objective of scouring is to reduce the amount of impurities sufficiently to obtain level and reproducible results in dyeing and finishing operations. Scouring of cotton textiles is an essential treatment in textile wet processing in order to get high absorbency. During scouring, waxes and other hydrophobic materials are removed from the cotton fibres. Conventionally, scouring is done with hot aqueous solution of caustic (NaOH) to remove hydrophobic components from the primary wall (e.g. pectin, protein and organic acids) and the cuticle (waxes and fats). Though alkaline scouring is effective and cost effective process, it is inefficient because it consumes large quantities of water and energy. Also, Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is most popular oxidant used to remove natural colorant of cotton fibres. Generally, combined scouring and bleaching is carried to make cotton fibre hydrophilic and white. Conventionally, scouring and bleaching is done with aqueous solution of caustic and H2O2 at boil. The conventional pre-treatment process of cotton requires strong alkali viz. caustic soda for bleaching. The main reason to use this strong alkali is to get high absorbency. Further, during dyeing also there is strong alkali used for fixation. This also gives additional harshness to the fabric. Higher consumption of caustic leads to increased Total Dissolved Solids (TDS).

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To overcome these drawbacks, SAREX has introduced a product KETOPREP-LA(CONC), a new bleaching aid which requires less caustic during bleaching. Unique Features:

Mechanism Of Action

• Novel bleaching aid for cotton requiring less caustic soda for bleaching.

In combined scouring and bleaching process, hydrogen peroxide decomposition is faster due to high caustic concentration which reduces the fabric strength considerably. Ketoprep-LA (Conc) acts as a catalyst in the bleaching process and activates peorxide at low concentration of caustic soda. Hydrogen peroxide decomposition at low caustic concentration is well controlled thus causes less damage to the cotton fabric. Application process

• Most suitable for delicate cotton fabric as it retains the fabric strength. • An all in one product thus no need to add other auxiliary during bleaching. • Lower chemical consumption and less inventory requirement. • It is easily dosable. • Lower caustic usage means less Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) & Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) in the effluent. Results

Fabric absobency, Capillary rise: Absorbency is comparable with conventional bleaching

Fabric absobency, Sinking test: Ketoprep-LA (Conc) bleached fabric sinks equally fast as conventional bleached fabric

---->

Item

Conventional Process

Ketoprep-LA (Conc) Process

Caustic flakes Hydrogen Peroxide Ketoprep-LA (Conc) Celldet-R Sarastabil-MRS Saraquest-AO

2% 2.50% 0.5% 0.25% 0.5%

1.25% 2.50% 0.3% No Wetting Agent No Stabilizer No Sequestering Aid

Whiteness Index Absorbency

73 Instant

Fabric Tear Strength Comparison: Ketoprep-LA (Conc) process achieves better Tear strength than conventional bleaching

Conclusion: Substantial reduction in auxiliary consumption which brings down the chemical cost by 15-20%.

NCM-MARCH 2019 25

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Is 3D body Scanning the Future of Fashion? Online clothes buyers have many expectations of their shopping experience, an important one of which is the ability to return ill-fitting garments for free without hassle. This can be a real drawback for retailers, who face the dilemma of either absorbing the cost or haemorrhaging displeased customers. Could 3D body scanning be an answer to both retailers’ and customers’ problems? Finding the right fit is one of the toughest parts of online clothes shopping. Sizing problems are also the main reason for returns, but besides being an annoyance to customers they’re extremely costly to retailers. This due to the labour, shipping and inventory expenses involved. Research by Opinium for Barclaycard found that the average British shopper returns almost half the clothes they buy online, frequently because they are the wrong sizes. The problem is only getting worse as online shopping grows in popularity. Over the past few years, retailers have started partnering with 3D body scanning companies to help customers find the right fit while saving money and reducing wasted time. So is the technology key to the future of retail? What is 3D body scanning? Body scanning in a non-contact, 3D measurement system that uses infrared depth sensing and imaging technology to produce a digital copy of the surface geometry of the human body. This generates a silhouette of the shape, and an extensive list of body measurements. The 3D data then can be exported for pattern construction, garment draping simulation and 3D body tracking. While 3D body scanning has been around for years, the technology for mobile systems is not yet able to reach a satisfactory level of accuracy and reliability. Researchers are aiming to develop a breakthrough systematic method of creating a 3D body mesh—a polygonal representation of a body—from 3D scanned data, regardless of device. “3D body scanning offers consumers the chance to upload their size metrics, and thus enable them to find clothes that fit them perfectly, every time… ensuring their time is well spent and offering a truly customised online shopping experience,” explains RichRelevance CMO Mike Ni. “3D body scanning also provides a number of size data points that can be further used to automatically recommend accessories – belts, shoes, etcetera – and further increase loyalty and wallet share.” “Right now, 3D body scanning provides accurate measurements of the arms, hips, legs, and more. This technology is revolutionary for so many industries, and as it advances, it will be particularly useful for the fashion industry,” adds Cory Sarrett, consultant for New Orleans jewellery store Marion Cage. “There is potential to help tailors obtain accurate sizing information, obtain sizing information and better measurements for the average American, as well as measure the perfect ring size. “Although this information is currently not readily available to the entire fashion industry, this would mean women could get more accurate sizing and feel better in the fashion pieces in which they invest.” Fashion retailers implementing 3D body scanning While Selfridges and Bloomingdales introduced 3D body scanning booths in 2011, 3D body scanning technology is still relatively new and few retailers have implemented the service since, despite industry interest remaining high. New Look introduced Bodymetrics 3D body scanning booth in its store in Westfield Stratford in London in 2012. Levi’s offers a similar service in its flagship store in central London; the service scans customers’ body to help them find a perfect pair of jeans. However, purely online retailers are the driving force of technology because they provide a solution to the massive problem caused by returns. Amazon acquired 3D body scanning company Body Labs in 2017 with the aim of improving Amazon’s Prime Wardrobe service, which sends customers a box of clothing to try on and return what they do not NCM-MARCH 2019 26

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want. Implementing this technology could help Amazon offer shoppers clothes, shoes and accessories that fit better, helping customers discover more clothes they want and helping the retailer cut down on returns. 3D body scanning company Bodi.me works with brands such as Topshop, Forever 21, Next and some luxury brands like Ralph Lauren, Emporio Armani and Boss. It works by creating a 3D avatar that helps customers find perfectly-fitting garments after customer get scanned in store. The software compares their measurements with the exact dimensions of garments to find the perfect fit. Other 3D body scanning companies include Styku, Me-Alit and mPort, which has rolled out 3D-scanning pods at shopping malls across Australia. A case for 3D body scanning in the fashion industry Commenting on the future of 3D scanning, Ni says: “Every year RichRelevance surveys consumers to gauge what they think is creepy and cool in regard to the latest in retail technology, gaining insight into the tech that consumers want to see as part of their retail experience. This year, 37% of consumers rated instore interactive mirrors as cool, so it will be interesting to see how consumers react to 3D body scanning when purchasing.

Amazon is expected to use Body Labs’ technology to make a 3D model of a shopper's body that could be consulted by Amazon's Echo Look to help make recommendations. Body scans stored with customer histories also could be used in many ways across Amazon — an Echo device and the Alexa virtual assistant would merely be the interface. Amazon’s leveraging of this technology will be all about providing increasingly greater levels of personalization. There are a lot of details that customers can provide retailers today about preferences and how previously purchased apparel has fit them, but an individual, personal body scan has the potential to be the ultimate arbiter of what fits and what doesn’t — what looks great and what might not.

“With Amazon’s purchase of Body Labs at the back end of last year, we may soon see them make a more aggressive play into this area of the fashion sector. This tech goes beyond simply trying on clothes, with it potentially allowing consumers to filter reviews by body type, offering consumers a truly unique experience. In five years, it may well be that we look back and think ‘how did I ever buy a piece of clothing from looking at a 2D image?’” Visualsoft head of digital Gavin Lowther adds: “We could see online retailers creating changing rooms which give shoppers the opportunity to virtually ‘try on’ outfits through 3D face and body scanning technology NCM-MARCH 2019 27

The mass customization movement is already seeing roots in customized clothing from seeveral fashion brands some of whom are sending tailors to physically measure individuals and others are utilizing scanning technology to distribute their services more aggressively. Fit3D sees a use for the 3D body scan data in a multitude of markets associated with making customized products for the consumer.

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in smartphones. When uploaded to a website, the tool will allow users to swipe across to their highly-realistic avatar dressed live on screen in different outfits. Options will be to purchase the whole outfit or just one-off items.” Noibu marketing coordinator Bronte Assadzaheh says: “In our opinion, 3D technologies are the future of retail. A difficulty that comes with shopping online is that you can’t try on the products to make sure they fit right. 3D scanning is a convenient way to solve the sizing issue and give customers a better vision of what the item would look like in person on them.” The critics of body scanning technology However, not everyone thinks that there is a place for 3D body scanning in fashion’s future. “It is unlikely that 3D body scanners will have a presence in clothing and footwear stores in the future. Technology in stores should be used to either improve the shopping journey, ironing out pain points, for example, self-checkouts being introduced so shoppers do not need to wait in long queues, or should be used to add a fun element to the shopping experience,” says Global Data analyst Sofie Willmott.

3D-A-PORTER: High-Quality 3D Body Scanners The future of the apparel industry is called 3D and it all starts with a body scan. Your customers get scanned safely in 1 second, they now know their real sizes and can shop in confidence. You, the brand, can finally answer this question “what are my customers sizes?” and have saved millions on returned deliveries. The technology for getting an accurate 3D image of a body and its all measurement is getting better and better. From radio waves to infrared, there are a number of scanners on the market. At 3D-A-PORTER we have partnerships with the best providers of the infrared technology, a 3D Body scanner that offers: High Accuracy; Fast (1 second); Self-calibration. Our booth is completely bespoke to your shop requirements, whether you want it as a standalone feature on your shop floor or incorporated in your dressing room. Imagine you get a 3D body scan and with the ID given to you, you can see yourself online wearing your favourite brand’s collection. In this virtual fitting room check whether it fits, see if you like it on you, buy the right size for you. Never ever return a purchase again. At 3D-A-PORTER we have identified the best providers of the technology and can offer brands an integrated fitting solution: from 3d body scanners to virtual try-on.

“Although 3D body scanners might initially be considered as beneficial to identify which size garment would be the correct fit for the consumer, desired fit can be quite subjective. “For example, some shoppers may prefer a looser, oversized style so may choose to size up from the garment that a 3D body scanner would identify as the right size for them. Therefore, 3D body scanners may not always be a useful tool that will make the shopping process easier.” New nationwide size survey 3D body scanning technology is also being used as part of the ShapeGB survey to capture the measurements of 30,000 UK adults. The project, managed by Select Research and backed by Innovate UK, will be undertaken for the first time in 17 years. Six major UK retailers including River Island, Tesco, New Look and ASOS have recently signed up to the new nationwide sizing survey that aims to provide data to help produce better-fitting clothes and tackle the surge in online returns. Over 100 measurements will be collected from each person taking part, measuring seven areas of the body – both arms, both legs, chest, pelvis and the abdomen in 3D – so it can similarly capture body volumes for retail clothing. The goal of the project is to collect data from across the nation to help better understand people who have the same clothing size but are different body shapes. The project aims to generate over three million body shape and sizing measurements, allowing clothing retailers to use the data to improve sizing garment specifications. The survey is available on iOS devices for users over the age of 18 who have to take two photographs and fill out a short questionnaire to complete the process. The Shape GB app will be available until the 30,000 target is reached, before being released on Android devices. The results of the survey will be available after the completion of the survey for more general and industry use. NCM-MARCH 2019 28

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The Textile Association (India) Ahmedabad Unit Is Celebrating 80th Anniversary (1939- 2019) One Day Conference On

"Global Textile, Changing Scenario In Current Times"

The phenomenal growth achieved by TAl over 80 years is a result not only of the vision of its founding fathers, but also of the true democratic spirit of a vast number of dedicated textile professionals who have worked tirelessly for the cause of TAI. During the inaugural ceremony of the conference, Hon'ble Dignitaries from the Textile Industries and Head of the leading Institutes & Universities will be honored with Lifetime Achievement Award. The Conference aims to provide a positive opportunity, where textile fraternity can benefit in enhancing their cumulative strength. It will also create a very positive global environment, which ultimately attracts high quality speakers, sponsors and participants. It will also help in building the networking and business relationship among the participants from various countries catering to their business needs. On such an inspiring occasion TAl has decided to organize one day conference on the theme "GlobalTextile Changing Scenario In Current Times" along with 80 years celebrations. Topics for Panel Discussion - Global Cotton Scenario and India's position. - Under the New Situation, How India can stay Competitive in Global Textile & Apparel Manufacturing. - Current Status of Chemical Fibers: Challenges and Future Developments. Topics for Sessions - India's spinners' product basket - Competltiveness of future textlle and apparel manufacturing - Building Customer loyalty in digital age - E-Commerce, new business model - Prospects and development of new apparel global markets - Integrated solution for apparel supply chain - US-China Trade War, advantage to India. - RCEP is coming, how will it influence Global Textile and Apparel Industry - Overall review of Indian Dyes of Market. Waterless Dyeing- Presentation by DyeCoo Taiwan The Textile Association (India) Ahmedabad Unit Dinesh Hall, Ashram Road, Navrangpura, Ahmedabad-380009 Ph. 079-26582123 Email: taiahd2@gmail.com Conference Chairman: TL Patel (Mob. 9924852035) Hon. Secretary: AD Patel (Mob. 9979048490) Office Secretary: S. S. Maity (Mob. 9374777748)

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CHT Group Set to Become the Global Leader for Sustainable Specialty Chemicals The CHT Group with its headquarters in Tübingen has set the goal to become the preferred partner for sustainable specialty chemicals all over the world. In all of the business fields the product ranges are being permanently tested and increasingly substituted by future-oriented, more sustainable products. As far as possible, CHT has been developing alternatives which not only meet but even exceed legal regulations. It is our goal to completely substitute critical substances and to develop future-oriented alternatives even if the industry has not yet the demand for such solutions. Our business with binders for textile finishing, which are mainly applied in textile coating and pigment printing, is a successful example. The dangerous goods classification by the European Union in 2016 led to clearly stricter legal provisions concerning formaldehyde. In autumn 2017 classic binders, usually having low formadehyde contents, were strongly demanded by the German textile market. The CHT Group reacted promptly and invested in higher production capacities to meet the increased needs. Our production focused on new, completely formaldehyde-free binder technologies which even exceeded legal regulations and the textile industry’s demand. The products are suited for manufacturing textile products according to The CHT Group with its headquarters in Tübingen has set Ökotex 100 product class 1, the highest the goal to become the preferred partner for sustainable possible standard which generally does not specialty chemicals all over the world. Source: CHT even have to be met.

Formaldehyde-free binders have many benefits but some customers remained sceptical. After all, many customers expected that the formaldehyde-free technology would lead to higher costs and necessary adjustments in production processes. Nevertheless, in 2018 the team of CHT Germany was able to sell more than 500 tons of formaldehyde-free binders in Germany alone. With its team of experts CHT supported the necessary adjustments of processes and recipes professionally and without additional costs. Moreover, the innovative binders are on average 25 % more effective than the former variants containing formaldehyde and they lead to improved fastness levels. “The successful new orientation of our binder business has strongly contributed to textile sustainability in various ways,“ Mr Alfons Erb, Head of Sales Textile Auxiliaries at CHT Germany GmbH states. He explains this statement: “On the one hand, formaldehyde is persistently eliminated. Then, the concentrations allow for a lower quantity of binders in the process. Finally, resources are saved in logistics as lower volumes need to be transported.“ The example of the textile binders shows that CHT has been working on being the preferred partner for sustainable chemical solutions and products in all of the textiles applications. The CHT Group offers among others a broad range of formaldehyde-free fixing agents for a completely formaldehyde-free implementation of textile functionalities. Meanwhile, most effect pastes for textile printing and further coating products offered by us have been substituted by completely formaldehyde-free alternatives. About the CHT Group The CHT Group, a medium-sized global player for speciality chemistry, is worldwide active in development, production and sales. CHT Germany GmbH in Tübingen is the headquarters of the group of companies which focuses on sustainable chemical products and process solutions. Textile Solutions of CHT improve the quality, functionality as well as look and purity of textiles and optimise their manufacturing processes. In the fields of silicones, building materials, paints, coatings, paper, agrochemicals as well as cleaning and care products innovative products and process solutions are provided by Industry Solutions. By bundling the strengths of the complete group further innovative products, applications or processes are permanently developed and vast technical support is offered within the Science & Service Solutions. Highly qualified specialists work in state-of-the art laboratories for development, analytics and application technique in order to work out ideas and solutions that meet the latest requirements. NCM-MARCH 2019 30

EXECUTIVE

PAGES

List Of Industrial Entrepreneurs' Memorandum (Textile & Allied Sectors) (Filed From : 01/12/2018 to : 31/12/2018) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NA : Manufacture Of New Article, NU : Establishment Of A New Undertaking, SE : Effecting Substantial Expansion Name of Undertaking/Address & Location

Item of Manufacture

Proposed Annual Capacity

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

KURION ENTERPRISE LIMITED MANUFACTURE OF COIR, 200000 NO.1002/1006, THE AVENUE, FOAM, SPRING MATTRESS NUMBER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT RD, CUSHION AND PILLOW OPP. HOTEL LEELA, ANDHERI (EAST), MUMBAI-400059 LOCATION: IDCO PLOT NO.3 TO 9 (P) KHURDA, ANLAPATNA, BHUVNESHWAR, ORISSA ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DODHIA SYNTHETICS LTD. 1001, 10TH FLOOR, FINIX TOWER, L.B.S. MARG, OPP. ASIAN PAINTS, BHANDUP(W), MUMBAI-400078

ALL TYPE OF POLYSTER YARN 21600 MT MONO & MULTI-FILAMENT & OTHERS INCL. SEMI-DULL, DYED/DOPE DYED YARN (PARTIALLY ORIENTED YARN, & FULLY DRAWAN YARN) LOCATION : S.NO.273, NEAR DARBAR HOTEL, MOTA BORASARA , KIM, SURAT, GUJARAT ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

KASHIVISHWANATH TEXTILE MILL PVT. LTD. 5TH KM STONE, RAM NAGAR ROAD, VILLAGE KHARMASI, KASHIPUR, UDHAMSINGH NAGAR, UTTARAKHAND-244713 LOCATION : SAME AS ABOVE

PET FIBER

28000 TON

WELSPUN ADVANCED MATERIALS LIMITED SY. NO. 675, WELSPUN CITY, VERSAMEDI, ANJAR, KUTCH, GUJARAT-370110 LOCATION : SAME AS ABOVE

ABSORBENT COTTON

16800 TONNES

YES DYEING & PRINTING PRIVATE LIMITED DYEING AND PRINTING 33, HARIICHHA INDUSTRIAL SOCIETY, OF FABRICS MUGUT DYEING MILLS, UDHNA MAIN ROAD, SURAT, GUJARAT-394210 LOCATION: PLOT NO.207, GIDC, PANDESARA, SURAT, GUJARAT

55296000 METERS

SHYAM TEXTURISERS PVT. LTD. MANUFACTURING OF OFFICE NO.106, RATAN CHAMBERS, COTTON BASED FABRICS RING ROAD, SALABATPURA, SURAT, GUJARAT-395002. LOCATION: PLOT NUMBER 5523 & 5524 SACHIN GIDC, SURAT, GUJARAT

5500000 METERS

GM KNITTING INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. FINISHING ALL TYPE OF 112-R, MODEL TOWN, LUDHYANA-141002 WOVEN FABRICS LOCATION: F2/1, F2/2, F2/3, F2/4, BOISAR, PALGHAR, MAHARASHTRA

12000000 METERS

R.G.I. MEDITECH PRIVATE LIMITED J-31, 30, SECTOR-63, NOIDA-201301 LOCATION : SAME AS ABOVE

HYGINE PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS (NON WOVEN TECHNICAL TEXTILE ITEMS)

40000000 PIECES

RUPA DYEING AND PRINTING PVT. LTD. 192, G.I.D.C, PANDESARA, SURAT, GUJARAT-394221 LOCATION : SAME AS ABOVE

DYEING AND PRINTING

3300000 MTRS

MARKWELL SPINNING PVT. LTD. SUR. NO.35/3 (3), RAJKOT, PIPALIYA, GONDAL, HIGHWAY NEAR TOLL PLAZA, RAJKOT, GUJARAT-360311 LOCATION : SAME AS ABOVE

COTTON YARN COMBED COMPECT YARN

3102 MT

MICRO WEAVES PVT. LTD. MFG. OF SYNTHETIC & 1440000 109, GIDC KHATODARA, BEHIND SUBAJI, BLENDED FABRICS METERS KHATODRA, RING ROAD, SURAT-395002 LOCATION: PLOT NO.20, FAIRDEAL TEXTIL PARK LTD NH8, KOSAMBA, SURAT, GUJARAT ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MARCH 2019 31

Name of Undertaking/Address & Location

Item of Manufacture

Proposed Annual Capacity

PAGES

MYRA HYGIENE PRODUCTS PRIVATE LIMITED ADULT DIAPERS 145000000 PLOT NO.-4/1, SIKKIM COMMERCE HOUSE, NOS ROOM NO. 306 & 307, FL-3, MIDDLETON STREET, KOLKATA, WEST BENGAL-700071 LOCATION: PLOT NO.57 & 58 KIADB INDUSTRIAL AREA, VEMAGAL, KOLAR, KARNATAKA ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CTA APPARELS PVT LTD. OTHER ACTIVITIES RELATING C-647, NEW FRIENDS COLONY, DELHI-110025 TO FINISHING OF TEXTILE N.E.C. LOCATION: P-26, P-27, P-28, P-29, HAPUR, UTTAR PRADESH

NOT KNOWN

RSWM LIMITED SP-1, RICCO INDL. AREA, RINGAS SIKAR, RAJASTHAN - 332404 LOCATION : SAME AS ABOVE

RECYCLED POLYESTER STAPLE FIBER

70 MT PER DAY

B.K.S. TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED MADE-UPS 600000 PCS 2/316 KUNGUMAPALAYAM MAIN RD, NARANAPURAM POST, PALLADAM, TIRUPUR, TAMIL NADU-641664 LOCATION: PLOT NO. E3, PALLADAM HI-TECH WEAVING PARK, PALLADAM, TIRUPUR, TAMIL NADU ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

FASHION ACCESSORIES MFG. OF HATS, CAPS & OTHER 200000 PCS PLOT NO.408, UDYOG VIHAR, PHASE VI, CLOTHING ACCESSORIES LIKE NEAR TELEPHONE EXCHANGE, SECTOR 37, GLOVES, BELTS, TIES, GURGAON (GURUGRAM), HARYANA-122012 CRAVATS, HAIRNETS ETC. LOCATION: PLOT NO.8, UDYOG VIHAR, SECTOR 37, GURUGRAM, HARYANA

EXECUTIVE

DAMODAR INDUSTRIES LIMITED 19/22 & 27/30 MADHU ESTATE, PANDURANG BHUDHKAR MARG, WORLI, MUMBAI-400013

PREPARATION & SPINNING OF YARN OF SYNTHETIC & ARTIFICIAL STAPLE FIBRES AS WELL AS POLYESTER FILAMENT INCLUDING BLENDED MAN-MADE FIBERS LOCATION: ADDITIONAL MIDC AREA, AMRAVATI, MAHARASHTRA

7500000 KG

SCAP TECHNO FAB PVT. LTD. MFG. OF POLYPROPYLENE 3600 MT BLOCK NO. 414 PLOT 49 TO 55 AND 58 TO 64, SUPN BOND NON-WOVEN BH. S.S. CENTRE, OPP. BHAGYODAY HOTEL, FABRIC PIPODRA, MANGROL, SURAT-394110 LOCATION: BLOCK NO.409, PAIKEE, KATARIYA MOTORS, MANGROL, SURAT, GUJARAT ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

QREGO FABTECH LLP 414 1, PRATIKSHA, NEAR GOKULDHAM APARTMENT, SHANTADEVI RD, NAVSARI, GUJARAT-396445

MFG. OF PVC COATED OXFORD FABRIC

9800 MT

FENOPLAST LIMITED PVC LEATHER CLOTH 306-308 , CHENOY TRADE CENTRE, PARKLANE, HYDERABAD, TELANGANA-500003 LOCATION: PLOT NO.21/1, NANDIGAON, RANGAREDDY, TELANGANA

4380000 LINEAR MTRS

KAMAL COTSPIN PRIVATE LIMITED COTTON YARN POST BOX NO.5, SHAH BAZAR, BURHANPUR, MADHYA PRADESH-452331 LOCATION: SY. NO.65, BURHANPUR, MADHYA PRADESH

16320 SPINDLES

MARAL OVERSEAS LIMITED PLOT NO.73, NATRIP, SMART INDUSTRIAL PARK, NEAR NATRIP, DHAR, MADHYA PRADESH-454775 LOCATION : SAME AS ABOVE

GARMENTS

1800000 NOS

ARVIND LIMITED YARN NARODA ROAD, ASARVA, AHMEDABAD-380025 LOCATION: SIMAJ, TEHSIL DHOLKA - DIST. AHEMEDABAD

5000 TONS

TIRUMALA COTTON & AGRO PRODUCTS PVT. LTD. WEAVING 7000000 240C,EDLAPADU MANDAL, THIMMAPURAM, METERS GUNTUR, ANDHRA PRADESH-522233 LOCATION: 26, 30/1, 28/1, 25, 29, PADAMATI KANDRIGA AND KADALUR V., NELLORE, ANDHRA PRADESH ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MARCH 2019 32

Name of Undertaking/Address & Location

Item of Manufacture

Proposed Annual Capacity

PAGES

KOHINOOR ELASTICS PVT. LTD. 50, 51, 60, 61 POLOGROUND, INDORE, MADHYA PRADESH-452015 LOCATION : SAME AS ABOVE

MFG. OF NARROW WOVEN FABRICS

389 LAKH MTRS

RSWM LIMITED SP-1, RICO INDUSTRIAL AREA RINGAS, SIKAR, RAJASTHAN-332404 LOCATION : SAME AS ABOVE

BLENDED YARN VISCOSE

4896 PR SPINDLES

GTEX FABRICS PRIVATE LIMITED PVC COATED FABRIC TF 301, ELANZA VERTEX, NR ZAINQBIYA, SINDHU BHAVAN RD, BODAKDEV, AHEMDABAD, GUJARAT-380059. LOCATION: SURVEY 1414, GANDHINAGAR, GUJARAT

16800000 MTS

SHAHI EXPORTS PVT. LTD. READYMADE GARMENTS F-88, OKHLA INDL. AREA, PHASE-1, NEW DELHI-110020 LOCATION: SY NO.114,115,116 ARSIKERE VILLAGE, HASSAN, KARNATAKA

3500000 NOS

EAGLE FASHIONS PVT. LTD.

MFG/TEXTURISING OF YARN

201, ORLEAANS BUILDING, UDHNA MAGDALLA ROAD,

4400 MT

NEAR CITY CENTRE, SOSYO CIRCLE, SURAT, GUAJART-395007 LOCATION: 221/3/1/2, 221/3/1/3, 219/4/1, B/H RAM RATAN WIRE, SILVASSA. DADRA & NAGAR HAVELI

EXECUTIVE

ARCOT SOLES PVT. LTD. MFG. OF FOOTWEAR 151/4,MOUNT POONAMALLEE ROAD, RUBBER SOLES, RAMAPURAM, CHENNAI, THIRUVALLUR, COMPONENTS & TAMIL NADU-600089 FULL SHOES LOCATION: 320/2, GUDIYATTAM ROAD, AMBUR, VELLORE, TAMIL NADU

6000000 PAIRS

CRYSTAL FURNITURE INDUSTRIES KHASRA NO. 53/5,53/6 & 67/1, KADHOLI KAMPTEE, NAGPUR, MAHARASHTRA-441104 LOCATION : SAME AS ABOVE

MFG. OF RESIN GLUES

120 TONS

BALAJI MULTIFLEX PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO. G 1612, G 1515 TO 1522-B, KALAWAD ROAD,

MFG. OF LAMINATED POLYESTER POUCHES

G.I.D.C. METODA, TALUKA LODHIKA, RAJKOT, GUJARAT-360021 LOCATION : SAME AS ABOVE ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

D DECOR HOME FABRICS PVT. LTD. S-14, 6TH FLOOR, SOLITAIRE CORPORATE PARK,

EMBRODERED WORK OTHER THAN BY HAND

5000000 MTRS

CHAKALA, ANDHERI EAST, MUMBAI, MAHARASHTRA-400093 LOCATION: PLOT NO-F6, BOISAR, PALGHAR, MAHARASHTRA ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

AJANTA GARTEX PROCESSORS PVT. LTD. WASHING AND DRYING 9/91 SHASTRI GALI, VISHWAS NAGAR OF TEXTILE SHAHADRA, DELHI-110032 LOCATION: H-8 & H-9, GHAZIABAD, UTTAR PRADESH

2500000 PIECES

List Of Industrial Entrepreneurs' Production Memorandum (Textile & Allied Sectors) (Acknowledged From : 01/12/2018 to : 31/12/2018) FAURECIA AUTOMOTIVE SEATING INDIA PVT. LTD. CAR SETS 300000 NOS. 19, 2ND MAIN, 2ND CROSS, KIADB INDL. AREA, ATTIBELE, BANGALORE, KARNATAKA-562107 NU LOCATION: AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT; ACK NO. 835 DATE 10/12/2018; MEM NO. 1143 MEM DATE 14/08/2014; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 14/03/2014 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

KANACK PACKINGING(P) LTD, UNIT-2, MFG. OF OTHER TEXTILES 13 MT BLOCK NO.461, KADI, BORISANA, PRODUCTS N.E.C. AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT - 382728 SE LOCATION: MEHSANA, GUJARAT; ACK NO. 929 DATE 24/12/2018; MEM NO. 1094 MEM DATE 21/06/2016; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 05/10/2016 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MARCH 2019 33

Name of Undertaking/Address & Location

Item of Manufacture

Proposed Annual Capacity

PAGES

GUJARAT ALKALIES AND CHEMICALS LTD. HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (100%) 14000 TPA P.O. PERTOCHEMICALS, VADODARA-391346 SE LOCATION: VADODARA, GUJARAT; ACK NO. 950 DATE 26/12/2018; MEM NO. 1779 MEM DATE 06/10/2016; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 04/09/2018 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

VIRAT WEAVING PRIVATE LIMITED DENIM CLOTH, GREY CLOTH, 12500000 B-602, 6TH FLOOR, SHAPATH-4, SUITING CLOTH METERS OPP. KARNAVATI CLUB, S.G. HIGHWAY, AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT-380058 NU LOCATION: AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT; ACK NO. 964 DATE 27/12/2018; MEM NO. 1820 MEM DATE 05/12/2017; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 29/08/2018 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

RAJESHWARI WEAVETEX LLP WEAVING OF COTTON FABRIC 4125000 HOUSE NO. 07/88622, STREET NO.12-A, METRES BHAKTI NAGAR, STATION PLOT, GONDAL ROAD, RAJKOT, GUJARAT-360002 NU LOCATION: RAJKOT, GUJARAT; ACK NO. 1001 DATE 31/12/2018; MEM NO. 329 MEM DATE 07/03/2018; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 01/09/2018 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SHAMBHU TRCYILR MILLS (P) LTD PROCESSING OF CLOTH 26400000 KASHIRAM MILLS COMPOUND, METERS RANIPUR, NEAR RANIPUR BUS STAND, NAROL, AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT - 382405 NU LOCATION: AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT; ACK NO. 1005 DATE 31/12/2018; MEM NO. 458 MEM DATE 27/03/2018; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 04/08/1998

EXECUTIVE

PINAZ TEXFAB PVT. LTD. DENIM FABRICS 13200000 NO. 181 1 6 7, C/O, VENUS DENIM, OPP. COZY METERS HOTEL LANE, NAROL, AHMEDABAD-382405 NU LOCATION: AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT; ACK NO. 965 DATE 27/12/2018; MEM NO. 467 MEM DATE 27/03/2018; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 27/08/2018 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

UMIYA ENTERPRISE MANUFACTURING OF ALL 3325 METER NO 40, SWAMI AKHANDANAND SOC, NILKANTH TYPE OF GREY CLOTH MAHADEV RD, GHATLODIYA, AHMEDABAD SE LOCATION: GANDHINAGAR, GUJARAT; ACK NO. 851 DATE 11/12/2018; MEM NO. 1167 MEM DATE 08/08/ 2018; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 02/08/2014 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

BALAJI MULTIFLEX PVT. LTD. MFG. OF LAMINATED 15000 MT PLOT NO.1612, GIDC METODA, TALUKA LODHIKA, POLYESTER POUCHES RAJKOT, GUJARAT-360021 NA LOCATION: RAJKOT, GUJARAT; ACK NO. 920 DATE 18/12/2018; MEM NO. 1816 MEM DATE 16/11/2018; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 30/06/2018 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

BALAJI MULTIFLEX PRIVATE LIMITED MFG. OF LAMINATED NOT KNOWN PLOT NO.G 1612, G 1515 TO 1522-B, KALAWAD RD, POLYESTER POUCHES GIDC METODA, TAL LODHIKA, RAJKOT-360021 NA LOCATION: RAJKOT, GUJARAT; ACK NO. 922 DATE 19/12/2018; MEM NO. 1960 MEM DATE 05/12/2018; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 12/07/2002 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PIONEER EMBROIDERIES LIMITED SYNTHERIC OR ARIFICIAL 9000 TONS UNIT NO.21-25, 2ND FLOOR, ORIENTAL HOUSE FILAMENT YARN, WHETHER 3A, UDYOG, NAGAR, OFF SV ROAD LANE, OR NOT TEXTRISED HIGH OPP. MTNL, MUMBAI-400062 SE TENACITY, MULTIPLE/CABLED LOCATION: SIRMUR, HIMACHAL PRADESH; ACK NO. 958 DATE 26/12/2018; MEM NO. 89 MEM DATE 17/01/ 2018; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 25/02/2017 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

KURLON LIMITED MFG. OF RUBBERISED 7200 MT JALAHALLI CAMP ROAD, YESHWANTHPUR, COIR MATTRESSES BANGALORE-560022 NU LOCATION: BHIND, MADHYA PRADESH; ACK NO. 959 DATE 26/12/2018; MEM NO. 3640 MEM DATE 05/07/ 2006; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 31/03/2008 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SHRIJI POLYMERS (INDIA) LTD. HDPE CONTAINERS AND 408000000 PLOT NO. 8 & 9, MAKSI RD., NEAR CHAKOR PARK, PP CLOSURES NOS INDL. AREA, NIMANWASA, UJJAIN-456010 SE LOCATION: UJJAIN, MADHYA PRADESH; ACK NO. 1004 DATE 31/12/2018; MEM NO. 730 MEM DATE 24/05/ 2018; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 31/12/2008 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MARCH 2019 34

Name of Undertaking/Address & Location

Item of Manufacture

Proposed Annual Capacity

PAGES

MPD INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED MFG. OF SYNTHETIC RESINS 18000 TON 59 AND 63, SECTOR A, INDUSTRIAL AREA USED IN THE PAINT, PRINTING SANWAR RD, INDORE-452001 NU INK & ADHESIVE INDUSTRIES LOCATION: INDORE, MADHYA PRADESH; ACK NO. 931 DATE 24/12/2018; MEM NO. 1739 MEM DATE 05/11/ 2018; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 10/12/2018 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

KAMAL COTSPIN PRIVATE LIMITED COTTON YARN 16320 SPINDLES POST BOX NO.5, SHAH BAZAR, BURHANPUR-452331 SE LOCATION: BURHANPUR, MADHYA PRADESH; ACK NO. 903 DATE 17/12/2018; MEM NO. 1980 MEM DATE 06/12/2018; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 16/10/2018 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

HARITA SEATING SYSTEMS LTD. SEATS (LUXURY/SUSPENDED/ 450000 NOS NO.24 (OLD NO.8) HADDOWS RD, KNITTED) & ACCESSORIES CHENNAI-600006 SE LOCATION: PUNE, MAHARASHTRA; ACK NO. 970 DATE 27/12/2018; MEM NO. 1598 MEM DATE 09/09/1998; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 09/12/1998 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CLOTHING CULTURE LTD. READYMADE GARMENTS 1000000 PCS. C/14A, TRADE WORLD, KAMALA MILLS CASUAL/FORMAL SHIRTS, COMPOUND, SENAPATI BAPAT MARG, TROUSERS, SHORTS, LADIES LOWER PAREL, MUMBAI-400 013 NU DRESSES, CHILDRENWEAR LOCATION: THANE, MAHARASHTRA; ACK NO. 834 DATE 10/12/2018; MEM NO. 2307 MEM DATE 05/10/2012; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 15/10/2012

EXECUTIVE

RAS POLYTEX PRIVATE LIMITED (UNIT-II) PP/HDPE WOVEN SACKS/FABRIC 3900 MT B-BLOCK, 8TH FLOOR, VINAYAK PLAZA, TARPAULINE/TAPE (UN/LAMINATED) MALDAHIYA CROSSING, VARANASI-221002 NU LOCATION: CHANDOULI, UTTAR PRADESH; ACK NO. 820 DATE 03/12/2018; MEM NO. 1291 MEM DATE 29/ 08/2018; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 27/09/2017 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SONU EXIM PVT. LTD. READYMADE GARMENTS 300000 NOS. C144, HOSIERY COMPLEX, PHASE-II, GAUTAM BUDDHA NAGAR-201301 OT LOCATION: NOIDA, UTTAR PRADESH; ACK NO. 837 DATE 10/12/2018; MEM NO. 1916 MEM DATE 30/11/2018; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 03/08/2014 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ARVIND SMART TEXTILES LIMITED MFG. OF GARMENTS 3700000 PIECES MAIN BUILDING ARVIND LTD. PREMISES, NARODA ROAD, AHMEDABAD-380025 NU LOCATION: RANCHI, JHARKHAND; ACK NO. 819 DATE 03/12/2018; MEM NO. 758 MEM DATE 31/05/2018; PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON 01/11/2018 Advanced Material Division Of Arvind Ltd.: Arvind Advanced Materials is an ISO 9001: 2008 certified manufacturing facility of Arvind Ltd. producing high performance protective and industrial fabrics. The unit is located at Santej, in Tahsil Kalol of Gandhinagar District about 30 kms from Ahmedabad. The AMD offers quality monofilament, multifilament, and spun filtration fabrics. These fabrics are used for Kelly Bags, Filter press, Centrifuge, Anode Bags, Scheibler filters etc. Fabric width upto 3.20 mts. is available. The AMD business had clogged revenues of 487 crores last year and EBITDA was negative at 7 crores for the whole of year. According to Mr. Samir Agrawal - (Head) Strategy, Arvind Limited, "this business is on track to reach a good 800 crores to 900 crores run rate next year." "There are some really good things happening in our sites on advanced materials as well. In the human protection which is where we make specialty clothing for fire retardant fabrics, workwear, chemical biological production, etc. we are seeing some really stepped up traction in the US market. There are 4 main distributors who account for bulk of the market and with all 4 of them we are having initial orders which have been executed. So, that should help us unlock the US market which is a big segment for that whole product line in next 2 or 3 quarters. And similarly for composites, we have been producing a lot of different varieties of composites but in recent past we have started to move towards a much higher value added products which require better accuracy and more complicate profiles. So, we have tied up with an Italian company called Top Glass which has been working with us actively and the initial results are starting to come in," Mr. Agrawal said while speaking at the Post-Results Analysts and Investors Conference Call on February 07, 2019. "As far as I think, the margins are concerned for the AM, Advanced Material division it is going to scale up as we move forward. Again in Advance Material there are businesses which already at in excess of 16%-17% margin and there are businesses we are still losing because they are smaller in size. And we are spending a lot of disproportionate amount to set the business up. So, again in 800 crores there would be good amount of businesses which would be losing. So, blended margin could be at least what we are on this year or more but I think they are still not the peak margins. The peak margins could be as high as 15% to 16%," he added.

MARCH 2019 35

NCM-MARCH 2019 36

CLOIFF FASHION INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED GNO 5/2 PL NO 25/1 SAMARTHNGR BEHIND AUDITOR COL YOGESH.SHIVADE91@GMAIL.COM

CLASSICSTAR FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED 101/41-C COLONEL GANJ 208001 KANPUR MA8972790@GMAIL.COM

CHIRAG FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED 251, NEW CLOTH MARKET, O/S RAIPUR GATE 380002 AHMEDABAD NAGESH.N.SHARMA@GMAIL.COM

CANTONE COLORS PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO76, SHED NO 02, BOMMASANDRA INDUSTRIAL AREA, YARANDANHALLI ROAD 560099 BANGALORE ACMECOLORLAB@GMAIL.COM

CAMBRICS NON WOVEN PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT 2 JANVIPARK 57-1 NEAR RADHIKA PARK, OPP NARMADA PARK, 360001 RAJKOT BUSA_CA@YAHOO.COM

BRODEN TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED H.NO. 6H-31, B.H. COLONY, NEAR BALAGI HOSPITAL, 800026 PATNA BRODENTEXTILES@GMAIL.COM

BLUEGALAXY STYLIST HOSIERY PRIVATE LIMITED 2NDFLOOR 5 (OLD:1) SANTOSH PARK, KUMAR PARA ROAD, PS-DUMDUM JBAN62@GMAIL.COM

BLUEELK DESIGN PRIVATE LIMITED A-18 UGF/BACK SIDE BLK-A, SUBHASH PARK, UTTAM NAGAR, NEAR TRANSFORMERS 110059 NEW DELHI ADVOCATEMOHITKAUSHIIK@GMAIL.COM

BIGGATE TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED 1024, GANAPATHY MANAGAR 641006 COIMBATORE KART894@YAHOO.COM

BHILV FABRICS PRIVATE LIMITED # 539, 2ND BLOCK, 9TH MAIN, RAJAJINAGAR, 560010 BENGALURU SELVIMALAR04@GMAIL.COM

BEAL INDIA EXPORT PRIVATE LIMITED J-817, RIICO INDUSTRIAL AREA, SITAPURA 302018 JAIPUR BEALINDIAEXPORT@GMAIL.COM

BANUV APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED F-76, SECTOR -8, 201301 NOIDA KUMARABHISHEK9799@GMAIL.COM

BAAN EXIM PRIVATE LIMITED B/204, CANBANK SUBORDINATE STAFF CHS, PARWANA APT., SRIRAM NAGAR, BORIVALI (W) 400092 MUMBAI SMARTANURAG4U@GMAIL.COM

B&B FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED MADIYAWA, 647 B/H-119 A, JANKIPURAM GARDEN, 226021 LUCKNOW CAARPITGUPTA12@GMAIL.COM

ASTONISHING CARPETS AND FURNISHINGS PRIVATE LIMITED SR NO 26, CHANDRIKA PARK, PLOT NO 42, FLAT NO 303, LANE NO 8, DAHANUKAR COLONY KSSARAF9@GMAIL.COM

ASHARFI FABRICS PRIVATE LIMITED 218, WARD NO 20, 132103 SHIV NAGAR PANIPAT ABHINANDANJAIN901@GMAIL.COM

APV GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED D-116, BASEMENT DEFENCE COLONY, NEAR MAIN ROAD 110024 NEW DELHI ASINGH2770@YAHOO.COM

APPAREX EXPORTS PRIVATE LIMITED NO 91/1 FIRST FLOOR, RV ROAD BASAVANAGUDI 560004 BENGALURU VAISHSATYAM525@GMAIL.COM

ANCHI HANDLOOM AND TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO 11 FNO 102, SASHI APPT GAWANDE LAYOUT SUJATAKASWA@GMAIL.COM

AMTION TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED C/O ANOWARA BEGAM, HNO. 31, 1ST FLR, NN COMPLEX, AK AZAD ROAD, REHABARI, ULUBARI 781008 GUWAHATI-KAMRUP RAJUMONO65@GMAIL.COM

ALBERT EMBROIDERY TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED FLAT NO. 2501, FLOOR NO. 25, A WING ATHENA, RUSTOMJEE URBANIA CADEVMANISHETTY@GMAIL.COM

AL HUDA TEXTILE PRIVATE LIMITED #27/28, SAYEBAAN, 2ND CROSS, NRUPTHUNGA LAYOUT, NEAR INDIRA CANTEEN, RT NAGAR 560032 BANGALORE NOORULLA78620@GMAIL.COM

AJANTHA SILK MILLS PRIVATE LIMITED A-4004, 4THFLOOR,RADHE KRISHNA LOGISTIC PARK, SAROLI, NEAR BHARAT CANCER HOSPITAL, 395010 SURAT RANJIV@AJANTAEXPORTS.COM

AGULAR FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED D-101, ANAND PARK BUILDING NILEMORE, NALASOPARA WEST 401203 MUMBAI FELIXAARON.975@GMAIL.COM

ADY APPAREL PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO.-5, SHYAM INDUSTRIAL AREA, 201102 LONI GHAZIABAD PAWANMISHRA78@GMAIL.COM

83-HAUTE COUTURE FASHION & RETAIL PRIVATE LIMITED MORESHWAR BUNGLOW, DIVE, 308 (C), KBPATIL46@REDIFFMAIL.COM

New Textile & Allied Companies Registered with the Registrars of Companies in India (February 2019)

NEW COMPANIES

NCM-MARCH 2019 37

INDOMARK TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED HR, IND AMAR GR GAMRI, KAITHAL 136027 CSVISHALGOYAL@GMAIL.COM

IMPRESSIVE CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED PO NO 9/408-6 FIRST FLOOR, NH 544, ARAMKALLU, MANNUTHY 680651 THRISSUR IMPRESSIVE_CLOTHING@GMAIL.COM

IMMINENT IMPEX INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED OFFICE NO E 213, 2ND FLOOR SEC 30A, VASHI RLY STN COMPLEX VASHI 400703 NEW MUMBAI MCAFFAIRS21@GMAIL.COM

IBLINQ FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED H.NO.39, 03RD MAIN ROAD, VENKATESHWARA NAGAR, PATEL NAGAR 583101 BALLARI GOPIKRISHNA.BANDARI@GMAIL.COM

HYMPUDI CLOTHING PVT LTD D.NO.: 1-3-176/35/22/22, BHAGYALAKSHMI NAGAR, KAVADIGUDA 500080 HYDERABAD HYMPUDICLOTHINGPRIVATELIMITED@GMAIL.COM

HSK FABRIC PRIVATE LIMITED C-308, VESU SHYAM PALACE 395007 SURAT ACCOUNTS@GULMOHARFASHIONS.COM

HIPSTERWINGS APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED C/O SUNDER PAL, S/O SATROD KALAN H NO.1441, MAST NATH COLONY, TCP-2 125006 HISAR INFO@REGALHIPSTER.COM

HIMGANGA POLYMERS INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED G-24, PLOT NO. 05, R G COMPLEX -2, SECTOR-14, ROHINI 110085 DELHI HIMGANGAPOLYMERS@GMAIL.COM

HEMLINE CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED DOOR#6-40, FLAT 206(B) SRISANTHI SIGNATURE APARTMENTS, MARIKAVALASA 530048 VISAKHAPTNAM VASUNDHARAKSHETTY2006@GMAIL.COM

GRANTH FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED 3277/28, G/F, KAROL BAGH BEADON PURA 110005 DELHI CAUDITBANSAL@GMAIL.COM

GLPS FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED H NO 553/2 KATEMAN KATE OM SAI CONST JYOTI NGR CHI NCHPADA 421306 KALYAN DONGAREBALKRISHNA@GMAIL.COM

G-III APPAREL INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED NO.249, MAYUR COMPLEX, 3RD FLOOR, 14TH MAIN ROAD, 7 SECTOR, HSR LAYOUT, 560102 BENGALURU PRIYA@GIII.COM.CN

GARMERA CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED NO. 2 GALA NO. 25, FIRST FLOOR, SHAILESH INDUSTRIAL ESTATE 401105 NAVGHAR, VASAI EAST AKASHANDCO123@GMAIL.COM

GAINTEXTILE PRIVATE LIMITED 9/7, KAILASH NAGAR, GANDHI NAGAR 110031 DELHI MISHRA5412@GMAIL.COM

FYORD CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED 270/1 MANCHEGOWDANAKOPPAL 570017 MYSORE ROCROC7979@GMAIL.COM

FINE WEAVES (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED 14 BECHULAL ROAD 700014 KOLKATA FINEWEAVESOPC@GMAIL.COM

FEMINA TEX FAB PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO.22-23, OM TEXTILES PARK VIBH-2, VILLAGE: PARAB, TAL. KAMREJ, 394310 SURAT KANANIDHARAM@GMAIL.COM

ESPERAR IMPEX PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO 42 BLK.K SHOP, MOHAN GARDEN, UTTAM NAGAR 110059 NEW DELHI TANEJAA286@GMAIL.COM

ELBOURE DYESTUFF CORPORATION PRIVATE LIMITED 4055, B/H. OLD ANJUMAN SCHOOL, NEAR ROYAL TOWER ASTODIA ROAD KAKKUWALAAAMIR@GMAIL.COM

EKAMRA TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO-259 NEAR NAIDU SCIENCE COLLEGE, BRAHAMPURA 752056 KHORDHA SPROYASSOCIATES@GMAIL.COM

DOOARS JUTE TEXTILE PRIVATE LIMITED 454 KM ROY CHOWDHURY ROAD KOLKATA 700015 SASWATIR.90@GMAIL.COM

DIVASH TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED A56, VIRWANI INDL ESTATE WESTERN EXPRESS HIGHWAY, GOREGAON 400063 MUMBAI R_KARAN@REDIFFMAIL.COM

DHAKSHAN TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED NEW NO 337/1, OLD NO 114-B2, SALEM ROAD 637001 NAMAKKAL AUDITOR@KKPINDIA.COM

DCC RENUKA DRESSES PRIVATE LIMITED 460, EAST MANGALWAR PETH, 413002 SOLAPUR VCCHAVAN.SHIVAM@GMAIL.COM

DANIELLE MITCHELL TEXTILE PRIVATE LIMITED ROOM NO 1, KADAR CHAWL, SANGHANI ESTATE, HARIPADA ROAD RKKASSOCIATES2016@GMAIL.COM

DADZU APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED 69, RAJ VIHAR COLONY, PAPER MILL ROAD 247001 SAHARANPUR DADZU149@GMAIL.COM

CONSOLIDATED FOOTWEAR AND GARMENTS PVT LTD FLAT NO. II/1, 2ND FLOOR, LAKSHMI APT. DOOR NO.37/19, SEETHAMMAL RD, ALWARPET CASIDDHARTH.MAHAJAN@GMAIL.COM

COIMBATORE INTEGRATED TEXTILE PARK PRIVATE LIMITED 91 G5, LIONS CLUB STREET, SENTHIL NAGAR INFO@SVMINDIA.COM

NEW COMPANIES

NCM-MARCH 2019 38

ORLEAN EXIM INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED OFFICE NO E 213, 2ND FLOOR SEC 30A VASHI RLY STN COMPLEX VASHI, 400703 NEW MUMBAI MCAFFAIRS21@GMAIL.COM

OBAESPORTS AND CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO. 8A, KHASRA NO. 39 VISHNULOK COLONY, KP ROAD 226023 LUCKNOW VISHRAM.YADAV22@GMAIL.COM

NAHAR POLYMERS PVT LTD SHOP NO-35, JAYKAR SMRUTI AAREY ROAD, NEAR RAJASTHAN HALL, GOREGAON WEST, 400062 MUMBAI LALITENTERPRISE@YAHOO.COM

MUNDHRA FILAMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED VESU F/8, 1ST FLOOR, OFFIRA BUSINESS HUB NR. BHAGWAN MAHAVIR COLLEGE, V.I.P ROAD MUNDHRAVIKASH1984@GMAIL.COM

MRAGNAYANI EXPORTS PRIVATE LIMITED 1ST FLOOR, 759/1, GALI CHAKKI WALI KATRA NEEL, CHANDNI CHOWK 110006 DELHI FILINGBAZAARROC@GMAIL.COM

MPM FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED 841/1A3, 841/1B1A 638701 KANGAYAM, DHARAPURAM ROAD, POTHIYAPALAYAM PIRIVU TIRUPUR ACCOUNTS@MPMTEXTILES.IN

MONTESANO PEKISSIER FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED H NO: 1713, SORANTTO, MAPUSA, BARDEZ JUNGLEGYPSYFASHION@GMAIL.COM

MLRR FABRICS PRIVATE LIMITED H.NO:28/276, RAMESWARAM 516361 PRODDATUR MSL.PDTR@GMAIL.COM

MILL MERLI FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED C/O NIRU BARMAN, H/NO. 6, ARUNODAY PATH, HENGRABARI 781036 GUWAHATI CSBISHAL@GMAIL.COM

MDA FOOTWEAR PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO. 215/17 C/O A.A. FOOTWEAR 124507 BAHADURGARH SONEPAT MAXAMEDGEESLE@HOTMAIL.COM

MARE A PARTE IMPEX PRIVATE LIMITED M-80, GURU HARKISHAN NAGAR, FIRST FLOOR, PASCHIM VIHAR, 110087 NEW DELHI VIDUR.FASHION@YMAIL.COM

MANMODE BROTHERS EXIM PRIVATE LIMITED NIRMAL GANGA APPTS., PLOT NO.218, NANDANVAN MAIN ROAD, INDUSTRIAL AREA, 440009 NAGPUR GAURAVMANMODE06@GMAIL.COM

MAAKRUPA WEAVES PRIVATE LIMITED 1ST FLOOR, PLOT NO. 585, NEW GIDC KATARGAM, FULPADA ROAD 395008 SURAT SHREEMAA.IN@GMAIL.COM

LUGADA FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT-544/545, BHOOMI PLAZA KAKASAHEB GADGIL MARG, TILAK BHAVAN 20 400028 DADAR (W) MUMBAI CAJIGARGADA@GMAIL.COM

LONGITUDINAL BUSINESS QUIK GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED NO.186, 1ST FLOOR, BEHIND CMC, T DASARAHALLI HEERALALLBQUIK@GMAIL.COM

LAZIM APPAREL PRIVATE LIMITED NO-885, FIRST FLOOR JANTA FLATS FLAT 110093 NEW DELHI MRMENTERPRISES004@GMAIL.COM

KHEMKA TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED MAIN ROAD NO. 30/2, SRK COMPLEX 1ST FLOOR, MANGAMMANAPALYA 560068 BANGALORE APARNA@VERFAB.COM

KATISNESO APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED J-3/71, GROUND FLOOR DDA FLATS, KALKAJI 110019 DELHI COMPLIANCE@ENTERSLICE.COM

KAMUNI TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED H. NO. 3-5, P.S. GOUD COMPLEX S.V. NAGAR, NAGARAM, KEESARA MANDAL 500083 RANGAREDDI DGDHAR1@GMAIL.COM

KALPTREE FASHION AND LIFESTYLE PRIVATE LIMITED 9/108, GEETA COLONY PIYUSHJAINDELHI@GMAIL.COM

JUNAID GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED 5/H/22, BHUKAILASH ROAD KIDDERPORE 700023 KOLKATA ASHOKKUMARSAHA1976@GMAIL.COM

JPBG INTERNATIONAL PVT LTD C-SF 202, GREEN VELLY, OPP DEVINE, ENGLISH SCHOOL, NIKOL NARODA ROAD, 382350 AHMEDABAD JAYANTIPATEL1274@GMAIL.COM

JORKK CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED C/O GULAB DEVI, P.N.11, KAMLA NEHRU NAGAR NEAR NH8, AJMER ROAD 302021 JAIPUR JORKKINDIA@GMAIL.COM

JHUNJHUNWALA TEXYARN LIMITED SHOP NO. 31, PHASE 1, JAGGI COLONY 133001 AMBALA CITY HSJHUNJHUNWALA@GMAIL.COM

JBBSA GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED P.S. HABRA DISTT. NORTH 24 PARGANAS KASHIPUR 743271 HOWRAH BARTABHIM@GMAIL.COM

JALGAON WEAVERS ASSOCIATION C/O. JASMINE COTEX PRIVATE LIMITED, GAT NO.71/2/2, VILLAGE TURKHEDA 425002 JALGAON S_MANDORA@YAHOO.CO.IN

ITRH CLOTHINGS PRIVATE LIMITED 17 A/46 WEA KAROL BAGH 110055 NEW DELHI MOHITRAICH@GMAIL.COM

IRAL IMPEX AND TRADERS PRIVATE LIMITED 944/3, OFFICE NO. 38, IIIRD FLR, GALI NO. 3, NAI WALAN, KAROL BAGH 110005 NEW DELHI CORP_SOLUTION@HOTMAIL.COM

NEW COMPANIES

NCM-MARCH 2019 39

SMG POLYMERS PRIVATE LIMITED C/O MANO RANJAN KUMAR BAGMALI 844101 HAJIPUR VAISHALI APTDEEPO@GMAIL.COM

SIXYARDS FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO 446 100 FT ROAD, AYAPPA SOCIETY MADHAPUR, HYDERABAD 500081 KIRAN@MADHEES.COM

SHYAMRATAN METALS & POLYMERS PRIVATE LIMITED C/O MUKESH KUMAR JALAN, TIRANGA CHOWK, TUNDI ROAD MUKESHJALAN11111@GMAIL.COM

SHREE SARVALOKA TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED 76/6, V.P. CHITHAN NAGAR VEDARPULIYANKULAM 625006 MADURAI PTMMADURAI@GMAIL.COM

SHOOLEIN GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED SHOP NO - 2, ASHAPURA CHS LTD SECTOR 19 AIROLI 400708 NAVI MUMBAI VARUNMODINIFT@GMAIL.COM

SHIVDURGA CLOTHINGS PRIVATE LIMITED FLAT NO. 431, PLOT NO. 50, PARSHAV VIHAR, I.P EXTENSION, 110092 DELHI KUNALMALHOTRA23@GMAIL.COM

SEVEN SYLVESTER GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED ROOM NO 1, KADAR CHAWL SANGHANI ESTATE, HARIPADA ROAD, 400086 GHATKOPAR MUMBAI RKKASSOCIATES2016@GMAIL.COM

SETWORTH KNITTING (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED NO.4, HIRA NAGAR FOCAL POINT STREET 141010 LUDHIANA SETWORTHKNITTING@YAHOO.COM

SELVI FABRICS PRIVATE LIMITED 20, MAIN BAZAAR STREET VIRUDHUNAGAR 626001 SELVIFABRICSVNR@GMAIL.COM

S-BRO APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED 200A, OPPOSITE MUNCIPAL SCHOOL POLLACHI ROAD, DHARAPURAM 638656 ERODE RAMESHKV2020@GMAIL.COM

SAYA COLOUR FRAGRANCE PVT LTD TF/44-45, RUDRAX COMMERCIAL CO. OP. - II GIDC, NR GAYATRI RESTAURANT, VATVA 382445 AHMEDABAD AC@SAYAGROUP.COM

SATYA KNITS PRIVATE LIMITED LUDHIANA 296, INDL AREA, JANAK PURI 141001 LUDHIANA COMPLIANCE2022@GMAIL.COM

SARVAA FASHION OVERSEAS PRIVATE LIMITED 7-A , SHIVAJI NAGAR, INSIDE UDAIPOLE, 313001 UDAIPUR SHARAD@SARVAAFASHION.COM

SAFURA & SONS HOSIERY PRIVATE LIMITED 43R BEDIA DANGA MASJID BARI BYE LANE 700039 KOLKATA KADIRMSD@GMAIL.COM

SAARYA FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED FL NO-304, OMKARA RESIDENCY KHANDAGIRI 751030 BHUBANESWAR SUPRIYASONY05@GMAIL.COM

ROSSARI SPECIALITY CHEMICALS PRIVATE LIMITED 201 A & B, ACKRUTI CORPORATE PARK, NEXT TO G.E. GARDENS, LBS MARG, KANJURMARG WEST SUNIL.CHARI@ROSSARIMAIL.COM

RITELAM TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED SF NO 332/2, THUDIYALUR MAIN ROAD, IDIGARAI VILLAGE 641022 COIMBATORE RAGUMANINDIANSTEEK@GMAIL.COM

REWOLF IMPEX PRIVATE LIMITED 115-B, FIRST FLOOR, EMPIRE STATE BUILDING NR. WTC, RING ROAD, 395002 SURAT DILIPGEHLOT09@GMAIL.COM

REAUX FOOTWEARS PRIVATE LIMITED HOUSE NO. 8755, GALI NO.14 SIDHI PUR 110005 NEW DELHI GULFAIZSHAIKH123@GMAIL.COM

RATHNALOKA GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED JH KERE POST RLP FARMS NEAR BELUR ROAD 573217 HASSAN CHANDANHL1988@GMAIL.COM

PRINTFLY APPAREL PRIVATE LIMITED 114-1 915, SCHEME, INDORE PRINTFLYINDORE@GMAIL.COM

PRATULYA FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED FLAT I-602, 6TH FLOOR, YASHPARADISE CHS, SECTOR 8A, AIROLI 400708 NAVI MUMBAI SACHINDHANE@ICLOUD.COM

POTTER GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED 1ST FLR,ROYAL COMMMERCIAL COMPLEX, GANDHI CHOWK, DHROL, 361210 JAMNAGAR POTTERGARMENTS.PVT.LTD@GMAIL.COM

POLYMERPONICS AGRITECH PRIVATE LIMITED 2ND LN, LP-124/2/5 2-FR, FL-3, 28/12A BEDIA DANGA, 700039 KOLKATA AVIKKEDIA2017@GMAIL.COM

PIYANJALI POLYMER INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED G NO. 2997/1B/1, MANGALWEDHA,TAL. MANGALWEDHA, DIST. SOLAPUR DDRAJPUT91@GMAIL.COM

PAVONE POLYMERS PRIVATE LIMITED 36/1/1/1/1, C/O. SUNIL KUMAR, FL NO. B/C-25, KARAN ASHIYANA SOMNATH NAGAR 411014 PUNE VIBHARAI96@GMAIL.COM

PAPLUTAPLU CLOTHING (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED 5/101/D, PIRMURAD, MUNSHI TEKRA, DHOLKA SUPPORT@PAPLUTAPLU.COM

OWRBAVITH IMPEX PRIVATE LIMITED NO.343/P, COONOOR ROAD OOTY 643001 NILGIRIS SANKARESTHER@GMAIL.COM

NEW COMPANIES

NCM-MARCH 2019

EMAIL: MOHAMEDRAFI94@E-ILSHIN.COM

(LIAISON OFFICE): RICHMOND ROAD, RICHMOND TOWN, BANGA LORE

CHANGSHU ILSHIN TEXTILES MANUFACTURING LTD

LIST OF FOREIGN FIRMS REGISTERED DURING FEBRUARY 2019

ZUNA APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED 395, RAJESHWARI NAGAR GOVINDASHETTY PALYA ROAD, ELECTRONIC CITY 560100 BANGALORE PRUTHVIROCKSU@GMAIL.COM

ZOOBEERA HOSIERY AND JEANS MANUFACTURING PRIVATE LIMITED WARD NO.07, PS+PO HARSIDHI AJAYKUMAR17592@GMAIL.COM

ZENTAUR APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED DLF PHASE-I A-36/19, FIRST FLOOR, 122002 GURUGRAM VIDURBHATIA97@GMAIL.COM

YOU AND I FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED IX-6999 PREM GALI ASHOK GALI MAHABIR CHOWK GANDHI NAGAR 110031 NEW DELHI CATAJENDERBHARDWAJ@GMAIL.COM

WELFLEX POLYMER INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED #24, 1ST MAIN, DOLLARS SCHEME, NANDINI LAYOUT, BANGALORE SMSHETTY@CANARAHYDRAULICS.COM

VUNIK INTERNATIONAL PRIVATE LIMITED 602, NAURANG HOUSE, 21, KASTURBA GANDHI MARG 110001 NEW DELHI CAPRADEEP1912@GMAIL.COM

VS TRANEXIM PRIVATE LIMITED A-107, SECTOR 63, 201301 NOIDA YOGESH.GAMBHIR@KGDATAFORMS.CO.IN

VISHWAJEET COTTON INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED H NO. 478 DHAPEWADA CSMOREDALIYA@GMAIL.COM

VENTEX NONWOVEN PVT LTD SRI GANAPATHI RENGANATAR THPPOVANAM, TANAKANKULAM ROAD, THIRUNAGAR 625006 MADURAI VENTEXNONWOVEN19@GMAIL.COM

VEERBHADRA TEXTILE INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED 322, B-20 BHAWARKUNWA ROAD VASUNDHARACORPORATE@GMAIL.COM

URMISH GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED A-96, G/F VIKAS PURI 110018 DELHI ADITYA.KUMAR2521@GMAIL.COM

UNIGRO TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED R NO. 08, SIDDIQUI MANZIL, CHOUDHRI MAHALLA, KALYAN 421301 ADMIN@GGIGARMENTEX.COM

UDYAAN DESIGNER STORE PRIVATE LIMITED M-52, DELTA 3, GREATER NOIDA 201308 UDYAANDESIGNERSTORE@GMAIL.COM

TRIRATNA HANDLOOM KRAFT (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED C/O AKULA CHARAN NANDI AT/PO-MANIBANDHA, P.S-BADAMBA TRIRATNAHANDLOOM@GMAIL.COM

TONCHI POLYMERS PRIVATE LIMITED C/O 96 CTSN 1/96 RSN 693/B,C PARVATI NAGAR WATER TANK TILAKWADI 590006 BELGAUM PRAKASH.ENERZI@GMAIL.COM

THIKHAAL TEXTILE PRIVATE LIMITED FLAT NO. 1, GALI NO. 12 1/5802, FIRST FLOOR 110032 BALBIR NAGAR NORTH EAST ARPITJAIN.JAIN89@GMAIL.COM

TEXTILEFAIRY CONSULTANCY PRIVATE LIMITED G-1 HARIOM BUILDING, PHASE-7 AZAD NAGAR, GHODBUNDER RD 400607 THANE PRAVEEN.KANWAR@TEXTILEFAIRY.COM

SWALOK TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO. 77, SRINIVASAPURAM PADMAVATHIPURAM VILLAGE, TIRUCHANUR RD 517503 CHITTOOR LOKANATHKASTURI@GMAIL.COM

SVPA EXPORTS PRIVATE LIMITED A - 41, SECTOR-7, 201301 NOIDA SVPAEXPORTS@GMAIL.COM

SUS GARMENT ARTISANS ASSOCIATION S NO 8/2/2, SHREE GANESH GRACELAND, FLAT A-203, NR HOTEL SHIVAR GARDEN, RAHATANI 411017 PUNE VRISHALIH@GMAIL.COM

SURASHAR CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED 113-D, ATUL TOWER CHS LTD. MATHURADAS EXTN ROAD, KANDIVLI (WEST) 400067 MUMBAI NEERAVSURA@GMAIL.COM

SUMARJUN CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED HOUSE OF SRI RAGHUPATI SINGH, NR N.H-84 BESIDE FITNESS GYM CENTRE, DALSAGAR 802116 BUXAR SUMARJUNCLOTHING@GMAIL.COM

SUKRITI GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED HOUSE NO. 717, SECTOR 14, 121317 GURGAON SUKRITI.GGN@GMAIL.COM

STYLESBRO CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED 17, HARICHAND MILL COMPOUND, OFF LBS ROAD, VIKROLI WEST, 400079 MUMBAI MANTHAN.HARIA@GMAIL.COM

NEW COMPANIES

NCM-MARCH 2019 41

OFIT FASHION INDIA LLP 5-32-880, ROAD NUMBER 8, HAL COLONY GAJULARAMARAM ROAD, IDA JEEDIMETLA 500055 HYDERABAD JEEVANKUMAR0514@GMAIL.COM

NAIIRA TEXTILES LLP FN/ 603 PANVELKAR CLASSIC MORIVALI PADA ALTON 421501 THANE AVIKKEDIA2017@GMAIL.COM

MUKANCHAND GAUTAMCHAND FABRICS LLP 25A, 4TH FLOOR, PLOT NO:1/3 SHREENATH BUILDING, OLD POST OFFICE LANE, JOSHIWADI, KALBADEVI ROAD MANISH.GC@GMAIL.COM

MONTIGO FASHION LLP B-259, SANJAY BLDG NO. 5, MITTAL INDL ESTATE, A K ROAD, ANDHERI EAST, 400059 MUMBAI VIKAS_KHETAN@HOTMAIL.COM

MALEKAR CLOTHING LLP SR. NO. 213/2 BHEKRAI NAGAR, FLAT NO. B 505,SHANKAR SUMAN SANKUL, 412308 PUNE PRIYA770978@GMAIL.COM

M R MOR FABRICS LLP 5 PANCHRATAN COMPLEX BEDLA ROAD 313001 UDAIPUR SURESHCGOYAL01@GMAIL.COM

KRITI TEX FAB LIMITED LIABILITY PARTNERS HIP MAJURA GATE MAIN ROAD, CENTRAL ZONE LOGIN.RANJEET@GMAIL.COM

KAVITA FASHIONS LLP 401 SUN INDUSTRIAL ESTATE SUN MILL COMPOUND LOWER PAREL WEST 400013 MUMBAI KADEL@CGINDIA.COM

KARROM BOY FASHION LLP RAGHUBAR PURA NO-2, GANDHI NAGAR X/2942, G/F, GALI NO. 5 110031 DELHI PARVEENJAIN36.PJ@GMAIL.COM

INNSAEI DESIGNS LLP VASANT KUNJ, 9304, SECTOR C, POCKET-9, 110070 NEW DELHI SAYA.INDIA.SALES@GMAIL.COM

INDUS GARMENTS LLP PHASE 1 B-127, OKHLA INDUSTRIAL AREA 110020 NEW DELHI SKLAKHINA1947@GMAIL.COM

GREENLITE POLYMERS LLP SHOP NO.617, RAMA EQUATOR, SURVEY NO.150 & 151, PLOT NO.1, 2 & 8, PIMPRI 411018 PUNE BS.SHUBHAM.SRIVASTAVA94@GMAIL.COM

GCM GARMENTS LLP NEW DELHI - 110008. 28/18, WEST PATEL NAGAR, 110008 NEW DELHI AMITANUKRITI@GMAIL.COM

GAURANGA TEXFAB INDIA LLP MUNI KI RETI, GALI NO-2,SHISHAM JHARI 249137 RISHIKESH INFO.GAURANGATEXFAB@GMAIL.COM

ESPEEDY AUTO POLYMERS LLP KALIYAR ROAD, BAHADRABAD BICHPADI, BAHADAR PUR SAINI, 249402 HARIDWAR DINESH.TANDON@REDIFFMAIL.COM

DVNP EXIM LLP OFF AIRPORT ROAD, SHASTRINAGAR, YERWADA SKY LOFT, CREATICITY MALL, OPPOSITE GOLF COURSE 411006 PUNE CASHALINI11@GMAIL.COM

DINFAB FASHIONS LLP OLD HANUMAN LANE, KALBADEVI ROAD OFFICE - 21, FIRST FLOOR, PLOT 76/86, LAXMI BHAVAN 400002 MUMBAI DINFAB11@YAHOO.COM

DEV CLOTHING LLP RAJKOT OPP TALUKA SCHOOL SADAR BAZAR 360001 RAJKOT DEVCLOTHINGLLP@PRARTHNAGROUP.COM

DEORO FOOTWEAR LLP NEAR NANGLOI CHOWK 1/17 RUKMANI VATIKA, MAIN ROHTAK ROAD, NANGLOI 110041 NEW DELHI RAMRATANLITES@GMAIL.COM

CRAFTBYNAARI TEXTILES LLP SODALA, F-108, SHYAM NAGAR EXT, 302019 JAIPUR NAVEENKUMARSHARMA022@GMAIL.COM

BRANDWIDTH APPAREL LLP PHASE 1, NH 8, IMT BAWAL PLOT NO. 135, SECTOR-3 123501 REWARI BHARGAVA2U@GMAIL.COM

BACHRAJ TEXFAB LLP 276 SHAMAL DAS GANDHI MARG (PRINCESS STREET) 1ST FLOOR, SITARAM SADAN," D" BLOCK ANIL@BACHRAJ.COM

AVRELLE APPARELLS LLP GAUTAM BUDDHA NAGAR E -8 SECTOR 39 201301 NOIDA NITIN.JOSHI@SHIVCRAFT.COM

ATUL GARMENTS LLP SECTOR-15 ROHINI 58 SHIVAM APARTMENT, 110085 NEW DELHI SINGHMOHAN.NEGI@GMAIL.COM

ASIMA CONSULTING LLP 6 STG, HSR L/O, 46 RING ROAD, 4L, WEST WING, FERHILL GARDENS, 560034 BANGALORE KG.MOHAN@OUTLOOK.COM

ASHVA TEXTILES LLP TAL- BHUDARGAD G NO. 227, TIKKEWADI 416209 KOLHAPUR AVINASHCHAMP17@GMAIL.COM

ARIES CLOTHING LLP KANJIRAPPALLY LAKAYIL, CHENAPPADY PO 686520 KOTTAYAM KOTTAYAM@NORTHREPUBLIC.IN

LIST OF LIMITED LIABILITY PARTNERSHIP (LLP) FIRMS REGISTERED DURING FEBRUARY 2019

NEW COMPANIES

NCM-MARCH 2019 42

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1. Yarn 24/2 composition 100% cotton different colors and finishes to knitting 2. Yarn 24/2 composition 97% cotton - 3% polyester different colors and finishes for knitting 3. Yarn 24/2 composition 40% viscose – 30% polyamide – 25% polyester – 5% cashmere for knitting

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Surface Modification of Cotton Using Slaughterhouse Wastes Granch Berhe Tseghai, Lodrick Wangatia Makokha Ghent University, Department of Materials Engineering

Abstract: Cotton dyeing using reactive dyes is one ofthe major water polluter; this is due to large amount of dye and salt remaining in effluent. Recent adverse climate change and its associated effect to human life have lead to search for more sustainable industrial production. Cationization of cotton to improve its affinity for reactive dye has been earmarked as a major solution for dyeing of cotton with no or less salt. Synthetic cationizing agents of ammonium salt have already been com mercialized. However, in nature there are proteinous products which are rich in amino and ammonium salts which can be carefully harnessed to be used as cationizing agent for cotton. The hoofs and horns have successfully been used to cationize cotton so as to improve cotton affinity to the dye. The cationization action of the hoof and horn extract on cotton was confirmed by dyeing the pretreated fabric without salt and comparing it with conventionally dyed and untreated salt free dyed fabric. UV-VIS absorption results showed better dye absorption (62.5% and 50% dye bath exhaustion percentage for cationized and untreated respectively) while K/S values of treated samples were similar to conventional sample. Keywords: cationization, cotton, proteinous products, reactive dyes. IN'IRODUCTION DYEING is .one of the essential processes of materials for value addtt.Ion. Among the industrial sector, Textile industry has been one of the largest dye intensive industries in the world. Cotton is the world's most widely used natural fiber being cheap, versatile in application and easily available. For cotton dyeing, anionic dyes have been used very often and they are, by consumption, the most important textile dyes. The coloration of cotton and its colorant of choice, anionic dyes, require vast amounts of salt for efficient dye utilization and fastness requirements. As a result, large amount of salt is discharged in the dye bath effluent [3], [4], [10]. Therefore, an alternative approach to cut on salt consumption and improve dye utilization is important. Processes that consume less dye and salt are more sustainable and less polluting. Many academic researchers and industry professionals have developed

alternative methods for more sustainable coloration practices of cotton. However, many of these improvements have not been commercialized and may require large capital investments, and/or increased processing costs. Additionally, none of these innovations provide a fully sustainable method for the coloration of cotton goods. Cationized cotton had presented itself as one of the most viable and sustainable alternatives to conventional reactive dye applications to cotton. However, cationization using synthetic agents is not also sustainable alternate as the chemicals are non- biodegradable, toxic and expensive [3], [7], [10]. Presence of much amount of salt in the wastewater leads toÂˇ impairing the delicate biochemistry of aquatic life, destructiv attack on pipes due to the formation of alumino-sulhato complexes which swell and crack concretes, hydrogen sulphide gas liberation under anaerobic conditions when sodium sulphate is

used as electrolyte, dissolution of such sulfides and subsequent bacterial oxidation causes harmful sulphuric acid and higher Biological Oxygen Demand, Chemical Oxygen Demand, and Absorbable Oxygen Halides [11], [12]. Finally, if the effluent must be treated, i.e. desalinated, the additional cost of this processing step makes the desalination unattractive just from an economical point of view. Even with all the environmental drawbacks of utilizing fiber anionic dyes on cellulose, their use is unparalleled for cotton to add value [19], [20], [24]. To present a viable sustainable alternative to anionic dyes requires that similar colors and similar fasmess properties be maintained while improving the ecological aspects of cellulosic coloration. At an academic level, several improvements and technological advancements have been made and suggested, however, the practicality of many of these improvements is questionable.

Granch Berhe Tseghai is with the Textile Engineering Department, Kombolcha Institute of Technology, Wollo University, Ethiopia (E-mail: mygranch@gmail.com) NCM-MARCH 2019 43

Surface Modification of Cotton Using Slaughterhouse Wastes In coming years, the textile industry must implement sustainable technologies and develop environmentally safer and efficient methods for textiles processing to remain competitive. Thus, seeking environmentally safer options to cut or reduce salt and improve dye utilization is important. The options to reduce salt are; process improvements, recycling the salt contaminated dye bath after dyeing, molecular engineering of anionic dye to have higher affinity and good wash off proper ties and, molecular modification of fiber to have greater affinity and attraction towards anionic dyes [11], [13]-[22]. For decades, no one really understood or appreciated the effects of the bath ratio of batch textile dyeing equipment because water, dye, and chemical use were of little concern. The liquor ratio, the mass or volume of water compared to the mass or volume of the fabric is now recognized as a very important and critical variable for processing as well as for the environmental impact of reactive dyed cellulose. Traditionally, liquor ratios ranged upward of 1:20 to 1:40 because color yield and salt utilization were not important. Typically, the amount of salt and alkali required for batch reactive dyeing are based on a concentration, therefore in order to maintain that concentration at higher liquor ratios requires much more salt and alkali than the same process run at a lower liquor ratio. In a continuing evolution in more sustainable anionic dye dyeing practices of cotton, many researchers have recognized that the greatest efficiency and utilization of dyestuffs can be obtained by modifYing cotton itself at a molecular level to contain a cationized charge and to utilize existing anionic dyestuffs. Several surfuce modification techniques can be used to alter the sutface charge on a substrate. There

Fig. 1: Cattle Hoof and Horn are many existing modification method, but there is no available constant classification yet. The suitable classification method is based on changes in fiber composition (chemical modification) or changes in fiber structure (physical modification) [5], [21]. Chemical modification techniques can include surfuce patterning, photo-bleaching, plasma treatments and cationization; the earlier three methods need high initial investment [9]. The process of modifying cotton by developing cation site on its surfuce without affecting its bulk property is called cationization. Modifying the cotton fibre to increase dye-fibre interactions is thus, best route to overcoming the lack of affinity for cotton of commercial reactive dyes, so that it can be dyed without salt. It was found that during cationization of cotton, etherification of primary hydroxyl groups on cellulose takes place [1], [13]. A number of processes have been proposed from early 1930s, till date to improve the substantivity of anionic dyes towards cellulosic fibres by introducing cationic sites on the fibres. Schlack was the frrst to report improved affinity of acid dyes towards cellulose modified through the introduction of aminated epoxy groups and then Rupin and Rupin studied the dyeability of cellulose towards direct and reactive dyes after pretreatment with glycidyltrimethyl ammonium chloride [3]. It was reported that the NCM-MARCH 2019 44

Glytac pretreatment improved the dyeability of cotton with reactive dyes in the presence of alkali and salt.W u and Chen [15] treated cotton with polyepichlorohydrin (PECH) dimethylamine which was manufactured by initial polymerization of epichlorohydrin, followed by amination with dimethylamine. The epichlorohydrin was polymerized in carbon tetrachloride using boron triflurideetherate as catalyst. The dyeability of treated cotton towards direct dyes was investigated and it was found that PECH-amine could improve the direct dyeability of modified cotton. In another work they have reported (Wu and Chen) [15] the effect ofPECHamine treatment on the reactive dyeability of cotton. It was found that the modified cotton can be dyed with selected low reactivity dyes under neutral condition using limited salt concentrations or with selected high reactivity dyes without salt. The effect of modification of cotton using various N- ethylolacrylarnide derivatives, viz. bis(N-methylol-2-cabamoylethyl) butylamine, N-(N,NO- dimethylol- 2cabamoylethyl) diethylamine and N-(N, NO- dimethylol-2-cabamoylethyl) dimethylarnine on acid dyeability has been investigated by El-kharadly et al [3]. Currently, there is a growing interest in the development of biodegradable cationizing agent in keeping with the requests of people for environmental protection. In tenllS of environmental friendly, cost, and ease of application, using bio product cationizing agent,

Surface Modification of Cotton Using Slaughterhouse Wastes is without a doubt the method of best choice for cationization of cellulose being biodegradable and renewable. Thus, this study has focused on cationization of cotton using bio products; cattle hoof and hom keratin hydrolysate. The figurative illustration of cattle hoof and hom is given in Fig. 1. Cattle hoof and hom have 93.3% crude protein, Keratin [25], which is a poly peptide (Fig. 2). Although it has been known for many years that these keratins differ markedly in amino acid composition, it has been shown only recently that this variability in composition is due to variations in their content of three constituent protein groups which have vastly different compositions [23]. The keratins appear to be built to the same plan with filaments (microfibrils), often aligned, of about 7â&#x20AC;˘0 nm diameter embedded in a non-filamentous matrix [14], [23]. The filaments appear to be composed of proteins (low sulphur) which are lower in sulphur content than the parent keratin, whilst the matrix contains two groups of proteins-one group is rich in cystine (high-sulphur proteins) and the other is rich in glycine and tyrosine (hightyrosine proteins) [16], [23]. Ethiopia is believed to have the largest livestock population in Africa. The estimates of the total cattle (Fig. 3), sheep, goat, donkey, horse, camel and mule population for the country are estimated to be about 53.99, 25.5, 24.06, 6.75, 1.91, 0.92, and 0.35 million respectively [6]. Livestock is a significant contributor to economic and social development in Ethiopia at the household and national level. The byproduct of these animals is simply disposed to the nearby environment without any treatment. Keratins are difficult to degrade by the common proteolytic enzymes and their disposal leads to environmental problems [2], [8], [18]. Moreover hoof and horns are hard keratin which has

Fig. 2: Primary structure of peptides

Fig. 3: Cattle in Ethiopia very slow decomposition, apart from that anything does not it hoof and hom even hyena, so that it pollutes the environment for long period of time releasing bad smell. If the waste could be used as a valuable resource, it could not only turn waste to treasure, but also reduce environmental pollution. 1his has been reported in many studies in relation to the application of the wa ste. However, no one has been conducted to study the hoof and hom proteinbased as dyeing auxiliaty. Cattle hoof and hom keratin will have good reactive properties and dyeing ability due to the presence of a large number of reactive amino hydrophilic polar groups (nucleophilic NCM-MARCH 2019 45

groups) within its molecular structures, so it is possi ble to synthesize a lcind of protein derivative agent, and this lcind of agent can be applied to cotton as a salt-free dyemg auxiliary for reactive dyes. Using locally available bio products such as animal hoof and hom as source of keratin hydrolysate to cationize cotton for salt free dyeing has dual advantage on the green economy by protecting tlte environment from the accumulation of the slaughterhouse wastes and by cutting the electrolyte in dyeing in effluent and wastewater. Many researchers have tried to cationize cotton using synthetic quaternaty ammonium salts to solve the limitations of cotton dyeing, but all

Surface Modification of Cotton Using Slaughterhouse Wastes

Experimental

Materials and Chemicals Full bleached cotton fabric with 21Ne warp and weft count, 58 ends per inch and 50 picks per inch was taken from EiTEX laboratoty. Cattle hoof and horn was collected from Bahir Dar slaughterhouse randomly. Chemicals used for extraction, cationization and/ or dyeing; NaOH, NaC03, H2S04, NaCL, NaSO4, Acetic acid, and water were used which are available in EiTEX laboratories. Red DCT reactive dye was employed.

Equipment/Apparatus For extraction, cationization as well as dyeing all dyeing accessories; pH indicator, thermometer, beakers, measuring cylinders and pipettes were used, as major and unique equipments the following were functional. 1. PerkinElmer UV/VIS Spectrometer Lambda 25 for measuring colour absorption 2. Gretag Macbeth COLOR-EYE 3100 for measuring reflectance, K/ S and CIE L*a*b* 3. FT-IR Spectroscopy PerkinElmer Ordinary washing and drying to remove impurities and dirt on the surface of hoof and hom using synthetic detergents and exposure to sunlight and then dryer was the first step and crushing by manual hammering to convert to small pieces. Hoof and horn keratin itself may not

60 59 58

Absorption Intensity (%)

the chemical they used can to give sustainable solution. Some are expensive, some are complex to synthesize, some chemicals need cross linlcing agents which in tum facilitate or release toxic chemicals. The agents are not the best greener approach and recommend using bio products but not looked over hoof and hom. Thus, this study fills the gap which is not covered by the many researchers in the globe.

57 56 55 54 53 52 51 0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

3000 3500

4000

4500

Wave Number (1/cm)

Fig. 4: FT-IR Curve of Cationized and Control (Untreated) be reactive with cellulose. In order for keratin must be dissolved and converted into the reactive keratin hydrolysate. Keratin protein was hydrolyzed by hydrothermal process; using NaOH at room temperature and 100Â°C for different time intervals. Extraction parameters were then optimized. Keratin hydrolysate was applied in the same processing techniques used for conventional dyeing and finishing of textiles. Pad-dry-cure was the technique that was employed to cationize cotton. The dyeing of cationized and untreated cotton was carried out by exhaust method. Ft-IR of cationized fabric, reflectance, colour strength and K/S of dyed samples were measured using Color eye 1500. The colour absorption was measured using UV/VIS spectrometer. Results and Discussion

Extraction of Keratin Hydrolysate Extraction was done at different temperatures for different time interval in differerent pH values and optimum NCM-MARCH 2019 46

extraction was found at room o temperature for 3 days and 100 C for 3-hour treatment with extraction efficiency 94% and 93% respectively using 20 g/l NaOH at pH>12.

Cationization The sample was impregnated in 40g/l keratin hydrolysate and was subjected to drying and curing at 100 and 135 degree centigrade for 4 and 3 minutes respectively. The peaks in FT- IR curve (Fig. 4) showed that there is a change in chemical composition after being cationized, thus the keratin hydrolysate was fixed to the fabric.

Dyeing with Dichloro Trazline (DCT) Red Reactive Dye Dyeing was carried out as per the conventional dyeing procedures at room temperature for one hour. Washing and soaping was done for both samples. The visual observation confirmed that colour yield was higher in the cationized sample as shown in Fig. 5. The K/S values measure using coloured eye computer colour matching

Surface Modification of Cotton Using Slaughterhouse Wastes also confirmed the colour yield was better in the cationized fabric as given in Fig. 6. Table 1 showed that there was no significant difference in the 'L*' (lightness) and the trichromacity coordinates of the treated and untreated samples. The cationized sample showed lower 'a*' value meaning redder and higher 'b*' value meaning bluer. The yellowness index was lower in the cationized fabric. The whiteness index was lower also which confirmed more dyes are retained in the cationized fabric.

Fig. 5: Dyed samples of Cationized and Conventional (using salt)

Absorption

The result showed that dye absorption is better in cationized cotton than the conventional method of reactive dyeing as indicated in Fig. 7.

K/S

UV/VIS Spectroscopy Result

3.6 3.4 3.2 3.0 2.8 2.6 2.4 2.2 2.0 1.8 1.6 1.4 1.2 1.0 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0.0 -0.2

400

450

500

550

600

650

700

Wavelength (nm) Wavelength (nm)

Fig. 6: K/S values of Cationized and Control (Untreated) after dyeing

Fig. 7: UV/VIS values The dye bath exhaustion percentage was calculated using (1) and obtained 62.5% and 50% for cationized and untreated respectively. %E = (A0-A1)*100/A0

(1)

A0 and A1 are the absorbencies at maximum wavelength of dye originally in the dye bath and of residual dye after dyeing respectively. Acknowledgment The authors thank EiTEX Chemistry CoC Chair (Asst. Prof. Adane Haile) and Wet Processing Lab attendants (Mahlet Wondwesen and Mitike Limenih) for providing the laboratory facilities.

Table 1 Color Eye Computer Colour Matching Details For D Standard 100 Colour Factors

Control Bleached Fabric

DCT Conventional

DCT Cationized

89.51

55.39

55.34

-1.09

46.07

43.92

3.78

-8.18

-7.74

70.96

33.65

32.98

75.24

23.31

23.26

30.41

30.05

0.3194

0.3851

0.3822

0.3386

0.2668

0.2695

Yellowness

7.05

38.89

36.97

Whiteness

57.15

74.68

72.29

NCM-MARCH 2019 47

Surface Modification of Cotton Using Slaughterhouse Wastes References: [1] Chaiyapat PA, Nantaya YA & Edgar AO (2002). Surface modification to improve dyeing of cotton fabric with a cationic dye. Coloration Technology, 118(1) 3539. [2] Omole D & Ogbiye A (2013). An Evaluation of Slaughterhouse Wastes in South-West Nigeria. American Journal of Environmental Protection, 2(3) 8589. [3] Chattopadhyay DP, Chavan RB & Sharma JK (2007). Salt-free reactive dyeing of cotton. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 19(2) 99-108. [4] Cook L (1994). Increase of cotton's apparel market share has caused salinity in textile effluent streams to become a major issue. Textile World, 66(9) 1530-1534. [5] Matthew JF (2012). Sustainable Cotton Dyeing. Fiber and Polymer Science, 1(1-234). [6] FDRE CSA (2013). Agricultural Sample Survey. Repor t on Livestock and Livestock Characteristics, Statistical Bulletin 505(3): 116. [7] Knudsen H & Wenzel H (1996). Environmentally friendly method in reactive dyeing of cotton. Science Technology, 33(6): 17-27. [8] Hua G et.el (2012). An Updated Nomenclature for KeratinAssociated Proteins (KAPs). International Journal of Biological Sciences, 8(2): 159-170. [9] Hyde K, Dong H & Hinestroza P (2007). Effect of surface cationization on the conformal deposition of poly-electrolytes over cotton fibers. Cellulose, 14(6): 615-623.

[10] Montazer M, Malek R & Rahimi A (2007). Salt Free Reactive Dyeing of Cationized Cotton. Fibers and Polymers, 8(6): 608-612. [11] Sabramarian M (2006). Influence of cationization of cotton on reactive dyeing. Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management, 5(2):8 [12] Wei MA, Shu-fen Z & Jin-zong Y (The proceedings of 3rd international conference on functional molecules). Development of functional polymers in modification of cotton for improving dyeability of reactive dyes. StateKey Laboratory of Fine Chemicals, DUT, Dalian, China, 11(6012): 69-75 [13] Ristic N & Ristic I (2012). Cationic Modification of Cotton Fabrics and Reactive Dyeing Characteristics. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 7(4):113-121. [14] Mokrejs P, Krejci O & Svoboda P (2011). Producing Keratin Hydrolysates from Sheep Wool. Oriental Journal of Chemistry, 27(4):1303-1309. [15] Hauser PJ & Tabba AH (2001). Improving the environmental and economic aspects of cotton dyeing using cationized cotton. Coloration Technology, 117(5): 282-288. [16] Karthikeyan R., Balaji S & Sehgal K (2007). Industrial applications of keratin. Journal of Scientific and Industrial Research, 66(1): 710715. [17] Blackburn RS & Burkinshaw SM (2002). A greener approach to cotton dyeing with excellent wash fastness. School of Textiles and Design, University of Leeds, 4(1): 47-52. [18] Rajvenkatesh S et.al (2013). NCM-MARCH 2019 48

Reduction of Salt in Reactive Dyeing of Cotton Fabric by Using Bio-Product. SSM College of Engineering, Unpublished Document. [19] Saleh S & El-Badry H (2013). Dyeing of Cationized Cotton Fabrics with Natural Dye Extracted from Acacia. International Journal of Textile Science, 2(2): 21-25. [20] Ali S & Hussain T (2009). Cationizing Efficiency and performance of Antimicrobial Agent on Cotton Fabric Dyed with Vinyl Silphon Based Reactive Blue Dye. Indian Journal of Fiber Textile Research, 34(1):274-278. [21] Shahidi S, Wiener J & Ghoranneviss M (2013). Surface Modification Methods for Improving the Dyeability of Textile Fabrics. Licensee In. Tech, 24(2000): 275-285. [22] Biswas S, Huang X & Nantz M (2010). Nucleophiliccationization reagents. Tetrahedron Letters, 5(13):1727-1729. [23] Swedish Chemicals Agency (2013). Hazardous chemicals in textiles. Report of a government assignment, 3(13): 1-114. [24] Wang X & Liu Y (2013). The dyeing dynamics and structure of modified cotton fabric with cationic chicken feather keratin agent. Textile Research Journal: 0(00).1-12 [25] WFAO (2001). Animal Feed Resource Information System. Retrieved November 05, 2014, from www.fao.org/AnimalFeed ResourcesInformationSystem.htrn. Tseghai, Granch Berhe, and Lodrick Makokha Wangatia. 2015. “Surface Modification of Cotton Using Slaughterhouse Wastes.” International Journal of Materials and Textile Engineering 9 (8): 3011–3015.

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Act responsibly with conviction: Textile sustainability firmly in sight In the age of climate change and environmental protection, the pressure on manufacturers, brands and retailers in the textile sector is growing. More and more consumers are calling for compliance with minimum social standards in the manufacture of their textiles. The OEKO-TEX® Association, together with Hohenstein as one of the founding members, has developed a comprehensive product portfolio to provide everyone involved in the textile value creation chain with the best possible security and extensive transparency. The product label MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® in particular offers a clear statement: the textiles labelled with it are manufactured under environmentally friendly and socially acceptable production conditions and offer safety regarding potential harmful substances.

A successful team, from left to right: Nicole Hajdu, (Environmental coordination assistant M&A), Christoph Larsén/Mattes (Management M&A), Jürgen Purc, Hohenstein, Gudrun Volm (Environmental coordination M&A) © Mattes & Ammann GmbH & Co

Consumers can immediately find out in which production facilities and countries the finishing of the textile article took place via the product ID or QR code on the end product. But MADE IN GREEN also benefits retailers and businesses that are searching specifically for socially responsible partners and suppliers along the textile supply chain. Here the OEKO-TEX® Buying Guide facilitates the selection of MADE IN GREEN labelled products. It is available for free at www.oekotex.com/products. The knitwear manufacturer Mattes & Ammann GmbH & Co. KG was one of the first companies to be found in the Buying Guide in the MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® section. This is no surprise as the principle of acting responsible with conviction is strongly anchored in the company philosophy of Mattes & Ammann. The family owned company from Swabia based in Meßstetten-Tieringen has made a name for itself as a manufacturer of

From the widely diverse product range of Mattes & Ammann GmbH for technical applications and the furnishings sector, functional knitwear for the production of hygiene products as well as the range of fabrics for the mattress industry were awarded with the MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® product label. © Mattes & Ammann GmbH & Co fine knitted fabrics for the automotive industry and the mattress industry. “When it comes to certifications in the NCM-MARCH 2019 49

areas of quality, environmental protection, occupational safety and social matters, we are a true business of con-

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Circular Knitting Operations at Mattes & Ammann®, Germany Werner Moser Sales Director Mattes & Ammann GmbH & Co © Mattes & Ammann GmbH & Co

viction,” reveals sales director Werner Moser, “and, most importantly, we live and breathe certifications.” Already in the summer of 2013, Mattes & Ammann was the first textile facility to be certified in the European Economic Area by Hohenstein according to Sustainable Textile Production STeP by OEKO-TEX® in order to be able to communicate their own sustainable production conditions to the outside world. In the summer of 2015, the company was one of the first companies in the B2B sector to receive MADE IN GREEN labels for its textile products for the hygiene market. In the meantime, the assortment of fabrics for the mattress industry has also been added. “We have practically doubled our production capacity in this area over the last years,” Moser adds. With currently around 270 employees and a total production area ofaround 36,000 square metres, Mattes & Ammann produces more than 46 million square metres of textile fabrics annually in circular knit-

ting, round knitting and warp knitting with sufficient scope for expansion. The traditional guiding principle is always in focus: “We set ourselves the goal of acting flawlessly in every respect. Alongside the quality concept, the environmental and social ethos also belong to this.” In fact, hardly any other supplier of the textile sector in Europe has certified its facility in the areas of quality, environment and operational safety so comprehensively. Moser explains: “It is our aspiration to always be one step ahead. For this reason, we always look for certification opportunities that suit us.” At Mattes & Ammann, one is convinced that the benefits of the certifications far outweigh the disadvantages. “Of course, you have to spend a lot of money to carry out a project like this, not to mention in-house infrastructure or work capacity requirements. However, for use, it has become clear that the certificates also pay off economically. It is not only the sales promoting aspect that comes into play, but also the potential to be able to account cost savings through the optimisation of inhouse processes such as goods flows.” Furthermore, sales director Werner Moser assumes that in the medium term, consumer awareness will change regarding the manufacturing conditions of textile products. “Today one can clearly see how the demand for articles NCM-MARCH 2019 50

produced under fair conditions is growing from year to year. We, as a company, have already made our advance contribution and are well equipped.” In the future, Mattes & Ammann will by no means want to let up in their own efforts to do the right thing. Werner Moser emphasises: “For us, Hohenstein with the product label MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® is the right partner when it comes to showing business partners and consumers demonstrable product safety and comprehensible transparency regarding value creation.”

MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® is a traceable consumer label for sustainable textiles. Each textile product awarded the label has a unique product ID and/or a QR code which enable the manufacture of the article to be tracked. Each product ID makes the different production stages visible along with the countries in which the textiles were produced. Mattes & Ammann® GmbH & Co. KG Fabriken feiner Maschenstoffe Brühlstrasse 8 | D-72469 Meßstetten-Tieringen Telefon 0 74 36 / 877-0 Telefax 0 74 36/18 95 Bildtelefon 0 74 36/877-20 | info@mattesammann.de

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Edward Crutchley and Colovos win the 2019 International Woolmark Prize Edward Crutchley and Colovos have been announced the winners of the menswear and womenswear 2019 International Woolmark Prize, presented at a star-studded event during London Fashion Week. Crutchley was also announced the winner of the Innovation Award, celebrating the most innovative or sustainable approach to systems production, materials, textile design or product design. The award, staged at Lindley Hall was judged by a highly esteemed panel, including Alber Elbaz, Tim Blanks, Laura Brown, Sinead Burke, Gwendoline Christie, Julie Davies, David Fischer, Colette Garnsey, Marc Goehring, Gert Jonkers, Floriane de Saint Pierre and Sara Sozzani Maino along with representatives from the International Woolmark Prize retail partner network.

2019 IWP Winners Edward Crutchley, Nicole and Michael Colovos. Edward Crutchley and Colovos were announced the winners of the menswear and womenswear 2019 International Woolmark Prize, presented at a star-studded event during London Fashion Week.

“There were 12 great designers today from around the world,” explained Alber Elbaz. “It was quite wonderful to see designers from places like Korea, China and Sweden, because sometimes in fashion we think everything happens in Paris, so this was a reminder that the world is big and fashion comes from everywhere around the world.” Menswear and Innovation Award winner: Edward Crutchley Hailing from the UK, unisex label Edward Crutchley’s work is grounded in an innate understanding and appreciation of artisanal textiles. “I think it speaks volumes that there is a such a clear consensus on the winner of the International Woolmark Prize this year for Menswear and Innovation,” said Tim Blanks.

Group photo of the judges "I don't think there's ever been a designer like Edward Crutchley in the competition. I find the whole idea of him being a winner and the figurehead of creative innovative use of wool in the fashion industry so exciting. I can't wait to see what's going to happen." By exploring global cultural references NCM-MARCH 2019 51

and aspects of material culture, Crutchley’s garments push the boundaries of form, silhouette and surface. Looking outside of traditional cultural signifiers to more sub-cultural references, Crutchley fuses a biker jacket with an 18th Century frock coat, reimagines the grungy tie-die on an

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES American college knit with the help of the head of Kyoto Guild of Shibori Masters and references the cowboy's role within America's identity. “This win means everything,” says Crutchley. “It has changed my life forever. It's going to change the way I design and approach everything. I'm incredibly flattered. “All of these references come together in a collection made from 100% Merino wool. I have used a wide range of techniques that celebrate the touch of the artisan. My approach to innovation within this collection has been very much focused on artisanal skills and how these can be celebrated and used in a relevant and modern way. Every fabric I have used is exclusive and developed solely for this collection.” Womenswear winner: Colovos Husband and wife duo Michael and Nicole Colovos' winning womenswear collection referenced classic wool sportswear and workwear throughout history yet updated this concept with modern proportions and patterning techniques. "Colovos’ work stood out for its quiet evidence," explained Floriane de Saint Pierre. "Its pure design aesthetics, genuine functionality and the amazing and innovative use of super-light wool, combined with the founders’ attention to sustainability, make them deserve this great award and recognition." Sourcing innovative wool fabrications with contemporary finishes that evoke the look and feel of denim and silk; comfortable, effortless and trans-seasonal wool fabrics were created. The tailored coats, pants and skirts are made from wool that is completely traceable, washable and colour- and shrink-proof. “Our goal was to create a luxury, modern collection with a fully sustainable proposition,” explained Michael Colovos.

“We are committed to principles of zero waste in manufacturing, so all production waste and end-of-life garments will be recycled to create new fabrics, a process that uses steam, heat and citrus to breakdown the fabric waste and create a new fibre to be spun into fully recyclable yarns.”

The International Woolmark Prize Chosen from more than 300 entrants from across the world, the 12 finalists at this year’s award were: ALBUS LUMEN – Australia; ANGEL CHEN – China; Brandon Maxwell – United States; CMMN SWDN – Sweden; Colovos – United States; DANIEL w. FLETCHER – United Kingdom; EDWARD CRUTCHLEY – United Kingdom; i-am-chen – Hong Kong; Nicholas Daley – United Kingdom; Willy Chavarria – United States; Yohei Ohno – Japan; and YOUSER – Korea. “What I love about the International Woolmark Prize for emerging designers is that it gives a sense of stability and support and that's so missing and rare in the fashion industry - the idea of being able to further designers' careers,” said Gwendoline Christie. Both Edward Crutchley and Colovos will each receive AU$200,000 to help support the development of their business. In addition, Crutchley will receive a further AU$100,000 for his Innovation Award win. Both winners will also receive ongoing industry mentor support, Woolmark certification for their winning collection and the opportunity to be stocked in some of the world’s most prestigious department stores and boutiques, including Boon The Shop, David Jones, Harvey Nichols, Hudson's Bay, Lane Crawford, LECLAIREUR, mytheresa.com, ORDRE, Parlour X and Takashimaya. “The International Woolmark Prize is an award for the future leaders of the industry, an industry that is rapidly changing to meet the demands of a changing consumer, climate and resource availability,” explained The Woolmark Company Managing Director Stuart McCullough. NCM-MARCH 2019 52

“The level of talent we saw today from all 12 designers was exceptional. Each and every one pushed the limits of the fibre, of their design and of the manufacturers they worked with.” The International Woolmark Prize is a talent development program which celebrates the world’s best emerging designers, providing them with ongoing mentorship from industry experts. This year’s entrants will join a prestigious alumni program, with 400 designers already benefitting from the award. For the first time, the International Woolmark Prize has connected with leading industry taste-makers as ambassadors for the award and we thank Amanda Parkes, Aquaria, Colin Firth, Tony Liu and Lindsey Schuyler from Diet Prada, Casey Spooner, Christine Centenera, Laura Jackson, Susanna Lau from Style Bubble and Simon and Kirsten Lock for their support. The Woolmark Company is pleased to have the support of Mr.Smith as the official hair partner, ELLIS FAAS as the official make-up partner directed by Michelle Dacillo and drinks by Vasse Felix for the final event. The Woolmark Company extends special thanks to the London Contemporary Choir for its performance at the final event. The Woolmark Company has also partnered with online wholesale platform ORDRE for a third year to present online showrooms for the International Woolmark Prize winners' and finalists' capsule collections to an invitationonly retail network and will allow wholesale orders to be placed.

About The Woolmark Company: The Woolmark Company is the global authority on wool having relationships spanning the global textile fashion industries. It highlight Australian wool’s position as the ultimate natural fibre & premier ingredient in luxury apparel. The Woolmark logo is one of the world’s most recognised and respected brands, providing assurance of the highest quality, and representing pioneering excellence and innovation from farm through to finished product.

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METI Study Group on Improvement of Quality of Life Report Utilization of Digital Tools such as IoT in Lifestyle Products In November 2017, the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry (METI) established a Study Group for Higher Quality of Life through Utilization of IoT and Other Digital Tools Introduced into Lifestyle Products. Since then, the study group has held discussions and compiled the discussion results into a report. Concerning approaches to utilization of digital tools introduced into lifestyle products, the study group focused on developing such utilization from the perspectives of business-to-consumer (B-to-C) or business-to-business-to-consumer (B-to-B-to-C). They ascertained current situations of the “fashion tech” and “smart textile" sectors in particular. Based on this, the study group also held discussions on challenges and efforts in the near future, as well as potential directions and other issues further into the future. Summary of the Report by Study Group for Higher Quality of Life through Utilization of IoT and Other Digital Tools Introduced into Lifestyle Products Problem awareness As consumers’ sense of value and lifestyles change and the fourth industrial revolution advances, lifestyle products1 possess great potential to enhance our quality of life and contribute to the realization of the Connected Industries and Society 5.0 policies. To this end, industries should take advantage of IoT and other digital tools by introducing them into such products, collect and analyze data through the products, and provide new added value, such as solutions to challenges and customer experience, to consumers. Since a source of competitiveness for companies lies in their data utilization and provision of solutions, companies are required to take a global viewpoint and take new actions quickly rather than just extend conventional efforts.

Lifestyle products as broadly defined refer to products used by the people in their lives in general. However, lifestyle products as defined by the Study Group cover products under the jurisdiction of the Lifestyle Industries Division, including textiles, apparel and accessories, and daily miscellaneous goods. From the standpoints above, the study group focused on utilization of digital tools introduced into lifestyle products from the perspectives of B-to-C or B-

to-B-to-C, and ascertained the current situations thereof, in particular, fashion tech and smart textile. Based on this, it held discussions concerning future challenges, efforts to overcome them and future potential and directions.

The term “fashion tech” is a made-up phrase combining fashion and technology. This term represents overall efforts for proactive introduction of new digital technologies into the field of fashion so as to enhance productivity and make the added value of products and services higher. The term “smart textile" refers to clothing made of conductive fibers and other currentcarrying materials that permit wearers to acquire biological data, e.g., heart rate, cardiac electro gram, electromyogram and breathing rate, or to measure motion data, i.e., data on physical movement, making use of the expansion and contraction of fibers and other materials. Concerning smart homes, a demonstration project was implemented in fiscal 2017 in light of the review of challenges conducted at a review meeting held in fiscal 2016 by the Lifestyle Industries Division. These digital tools possess infinite potential that may cause fundamental changes in the existing concept of clothing that may drive industries to NCM-MARCH 2019 53

provide a variety of new services and solutions that would not normally be achieved under existing means. Fashion tech

Current situation of fashion tech As activities in the B to C sector, this report takes up (i) mass customization, (ii) proposal-based service, and (iii) information collection and sensing.

Mass customization refers to the practice of producing and selling made-toorder products with the same level of efficiency as in the case of the conventional mass production by using IoT and other technologies to link individual orders placed in accordance with consumers’ fashion tastes and body sizes with the production system. A proposal-based service refers to recommending products and coordination styles suited to consumers’ own needs and preferences after using AI and other technologies to analyze data related to consumers’ everyday lives and activities. Sensing refers to providing new services based on data on consumers’ use of products and their movements collected through a sensor installed in the product. Challenges for fashion tech *

When promoting the utilization of IoT, it is important not only to look

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES which utilizes IoT and other technologies, not only enables the provision of solutions in the form of products carefully tailored to individual persons’ body sizes and fashion preferences - ultimately, a product may be made for one particular customer alone - at prices similar to those of massproduced, ready-made products but also contributes to rationalizing prices (improving cost performance) and securing reliability and sustainability by minimizing discount sales and product disposal associated with dead stock through made-to-order manufacturing. Demand forecasting, proposal-based services and interactive communications between producers and users using AI and other technologies may enable the provision of solutions with higher added value.

from the viewpoint of improving business process efficiency or maximizing production and distribution processes but also to consider what solutions can be provided to customers and how that can be developed into a business model. *

To that end, it is important to conduct the following activities: (i) providing solutions from the standpoint of consumers, rather than the standpoint of business operators; (ii) providing new added value by actively promoting cross-sectoral cooperation; (iii) developing a new business model through the utilization of consumer data; and (iv) making efforts to secure and train workers in terms of both fashion and digital skills. It is important to secure a high level of design and fashion quality and make efforts to achieve results visible for consumers, rather than focusing only on utilizing digital technology.

Future vision of fashion tech *

Proposal-based services and demand forecasting using artificial intelligence (AI) and other technologies, coupled with mass customization, could fundamentally change existing business models in the apparel and other industries. The traditional apparel industry, which mass-produces standardized products based on demand projection in principle, has always faced problems such as excess supply and dead stock because of incorrect demand projection and other factors, so selling at a 60% sales rate is regarded as a great success in the textiles and apparel industry. Selling dead stock at a discount may undermine consumers’ confidence in prices. Disposing of dead stock increases environmental impacts. Some people doubt the sustainability of a business model predicated on discount sales and disposal of dead stock. In contrast, mass customization,

It is necessary to examine the effects of creating a sustainable supply chain that improves productivity, rationalizes prices and reduces environmental impact through mass customization and to promote fullfledged implementation into society.

are developing smart textiles in such fields as sports and healthcare with concrete applications, and quick commercialization and other concrete outcomes in mind, Japanese companies have difficulty finding concrete applications or customers and fail to achieve commercialization in some cases despite developing high-function materials and systems because of failure to incorporate customer needs. As a result, practical use in Japan has generally been lagging. *

Challenges for smart textiles *

Currently, most smart textile products are still in the development or demonstration stage, so it is necessary to promote practical use and diffusion of products and services.

Therefore, in addition to (i) developing element technologies, it is important to (ii) create solutions and develop business models, (iii) promote cross-sectoral cooperation and open innovation, (iv) identify fields of cooperation and competition, (v) promote international standardization, and (vi) promote Japan-France joint projects.

In particular, it is necessary to make clear the vision of an outcome in preparation for commercialization, develop a suitable business model and further promote such activities as cross-sectoral cooperation between textile, fiber and materials makers and a shift towards services.

Smart textiles

Current situation of smart textiles *

Textiles, fiber and materials makers and start-up companies are developing applications such as monitoring of elderly people, construction workers and drivers, management of athletes’ health conditions and analysis of their motions, and motion control for games. In addition, development is underway for fibers and textiles used in solar power generation for wearable devices. Japan’s advantage in smart textiles rests in product development that seeks to provide clothing with a smooth and comfortable texture while maintaining the performance of electrodes, which represent a key element of sensing technology. However, while foreign companies NCM-MARCH 2019 54

Compared with wristband-type and eyeglass-type wearable devices, smart textiles are easily made light and flexible. Smart textiles are also elastic and breathable, therefore, they put less stress on wearers when worn during everyday activities, so they have an advantage over those wearable devices in that they can be used to collect highly precise data over long periods of time.

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Holding of workshops and forums (Smart Textile Promotion Commission (tentative name)) by relevant business operators is effective in identifying fields of cooperation. Smart textiles are positioned as a strategic sector under the JapanFrance cooperation on textiles and fibers, so industries in both countries are expected to propose innovative development themes under bilateral joint development projects.

Future vision of smart textiles *

Smart textiles will open a new chapter in the history of clothing in that they incorporate a sensor which is an entirely new function to clothing.

Although it has traditionally been common sense that sensors are solid devices, flexible or elastic sensors are starting to be diffused. Therefore, it is a natural course of events that clothing is transformed into a sensor, following suit of such items as wristbands, eyeglasses and belts.

If smart textiles make it possible to constantly conduct precise measurement of physiological data and motion data in everyday life, the following applications may be realized in the future, for example, in addition to such services as monitoring of people and health condition management that are now under development: It will become possible for people to make choices and take actions for the future by using smart textiles to better understand their own physical conditions. For example, people will be able to perceive the deterioration in their condition through managing their physical conditions by smart textiles, and smart textiles may be used to improve the quality of sleep by accumulating sleeping condition data. The health conditions of elderly people may be remote-managed by family members and doctors. De-

velopment of new medical services based on longterm monitoring, such as disease prevention and detection of potential diseases, can also be expected. -

Smart textiles can be used to enhance training for professional sports players. In addition, they may enable ordinary people to receive training that reproduces motions of professional athletes through quantitative analysis of their ideal forms.

It will become possible to manage the condition of health in manual labor workplaces, as well as contribute to the improvement of the environment of office workplaces through measurement of stress conditions and fatigue levels.

Smart textiles may be used as a game controller to reflect the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s motions on the game display in real time or as a fashion item or a communication device that emits light or sound in response to physical touch. Moreover, smart textiles may be used to give games an increased sense of reality by applying electrical stimulus to the body, which feels like physical touch with an object, through weak electric currents flowing from electrodes. They may also be used as an actuator of artificial muscles in the rehabilitation process. Accumulation and usage of constantly and precisely measured big data concerning physiological conditions is expected to contribute to the progress of medicine and the development of various solutions. For example, disease symptoms, signs and mechanisms that have until now gone unnoticed may be discovered. The future of smart textiles has not yet attracted the attention of business operators and consumers. Smart textiles have infinite potential to provide new value that could further enrich or entirely change our lives. NCM-MARCH 2019 55

Challenges common to use of IoT and other technologies in lifestyle products

Improvement of the environment for utilization of data *

METI formulated the Contract Guidelines on Data Utilization Rights, which summarizes the principles for defining the rights concerning data created in relation to contract-based transactions. The guidelines are expected to be used to promote data utilization.

In the EU, the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) is scheduled to be put into force in May 2018. The GDPR provides for the protection of rights related to personal data owned by companies and for the provision of individualsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; rights to data transfer between companies (data portability).

Under these circumstances, it is possible that a business model based on the approach of merely accumulating personal data will become impractical. Therefore, it is essential for companies to develop a business model taking into consideration secondary utilization of data. For example, they should consider how to utilize acquired data and how to differentiate themselves from other companies.

A bill on special measures to improve productivity and a bill to partially revise the Unfair Competition Prevention Act, etc. provide for measures to support datasharing business operators and measures to protect against illegal data acquisition.

Support for start-up companies *

If start-up companies expand business through cooperation with large enterprises on an equal footing and repeatedly implement the proof of concept process, industrial rejuvenation is expected to proceed through the development of new business operators. Therefore, it is important to develop an environment that supports such activity.

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The New Energy and Industrial Technology Development Organization (NEDO) and the Small and Medium Enterprise Agency, among other organizations, provide support to start-up companies’ activities such as demonstration of new technologies. Technology development and other activities using this support are expected to promote practical use and create new markets. Equity investments by large companies in start-up companies possessing new technologies are expected to increase business operators entering new markets, thereby invigorating the markets.

The EU has decided: China can’t be trusted. The 58.9% duty on imported suede stays The 58.9% ad-valorem duty on imported suede leather that is made in China (customs codes: 4114 10 10 e 4114 10 90) stays active. The European Commission spreads the news via the publication of the Official Journal of the European Union, last Feb. 20th: the tariff, introduced in 2006, remains active as an antidumping measure to favor the community’s production. Process The European Commission, took all the necessary time to complete the expiry review (the re-examination of the duty once it is about to expire), of the duty: the process, which started in 2017, saw the British tanners’ association (Leather UK), supported by UNIC – Italian Tanners when consulted by the EC, represent the viewpoint of who believes that the duty is still a necessity. The types of leather that are in the purview of the duty also include oil-tanned mouton splits that are sold as “chamois leather”, one of the few products in the tanning segment to be B2C, meaning sold directly to the final consumer.

US to withdraw trade concessions under the Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) The US Trade Representative (USTR) has announced plans to withdraw India as a beneficiary developing country under the Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) program. Plans to review India’s eligibility for this program began in April 2018. These changes will be effective 60 days after notifications to Congress and the government of India are sent, and further processes are completed. Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) is a preferential tariff system provided by developed economies such as the US, EU, UK, Japan etc. to developing economies which means allowing imports with tariffs that are zero or low. The beneficiaries of GSP are around 120 developing economies. As of 2017, India and Brazil were the primary beneficiaries in terms of export volume realized under GSP. The Trump administration stopped duty benefits on exports worth $5.6 billion from India. The GSP withdrawal came after Trump called India a ‘tariff king’, saying that the government imposes enormously high tariffs on American products and the trade relationship is in favour of India. The USTR also began a review of India’s GSP status.

MESI’s tannery, Italy, (production capacity>1 million sheepskins/yr) which has most modern machinery & technologies and is a leader in chamois leather. The conclusions The commission recognized, at the end of the process, that the “repeal of the measure would have, most likely, increased the amount of imports from china, sold at a lower price than those made in Europe, and would have caused further damages on the Community’s industry. As a consequence, the profitability of the EU industry would have been put in serious peril”. The 58.9% duty remains.

This was after receiving complaints of trade barriers from India, from the dairy industry and manufacturers of medical devices. India’s decisions on data localization for all companies operating in India and tightening norms for FDI in e-commerce have intensified the situation. The GSP removal will leave a reasonable impact on India as the country enjoyed preferential tariff on exports worth of nearly $5.6 billion under the GSP route out of the total exports of $48 billion in 2017-18. Exports of readymade garments to the United States will be impacted with the withNCM-MARCH 2019 56

drawal of Generalised System of Preferences (GSP), Vice Chairman of NITI Aayog Rajiv Kumar has acknowledged. According to him, India must improve its export supportive system, and increase our efficiency and productivity in order to overall increase her exports. "I feel that India must not take any retaliatory step. No quid pro quo should be levelled. The United States has only removed the preferences. We also don't give any reference to them. Take it in your stride. We should use this in our trade facilitation. We must focus to improve our efficiency, infrastructure and logistics so that our market share does not decrease," he added.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Highlights From MAGIC February 2019 UBM Fashion’s biggest event of the year happened this February in Las Vegas. If you weren’t there, you missed out on tens of thousands of buyers, educational seminars, and performances by world famous artists. The success of MAGIC will only be magnified this August, when we unite on a singular campus to form ONE MAGIC. Tens of thousands of buyers showed up to the first MAGIC Las Vegas show of the season to write orders, fill their shelves and learn from industry experts while having some fun along the way. In addition to a highly curated floorplan that optimized the non-stop foot traffic, the MAGIC team created numerous events throughout the 3-day show that brought both retailers and brands closer together. Their relationship has never been stronger because MAGIC simplifies the complications of the buying process by providing personalized shows for each category of fashion. MAGIC places their exhibiting brands in the section of the show where they feel the brand would excel in. Take Maceoo for example, “We had a great spot that merged the identity of the brand between N:OW and MRket at PROJECT. We got 102 clients in one day and opened 28 new accounts. 102 clients in one day! We’re just killing it!” exclaimed Mehdi Raad, owner and designer at Maceoo. The detailed placement of brands allows buyers to find the right clothes that fit their style. UBM Fashion’s biggest event of the year brought together buyers from every corner of the globe, each searching for that unique and fresh style to showcase in their stores. One brand that has realized MAGIC’s reach and quality of buyers is BRAX, a veteran of the show, “You have retailers from around the world that come to MAGIC. We got buyers from Canada coming to us with 120 stores, we have a meeting to set up for another huge deal with people that we wouldn’t have seen if

The Las Vegas Convention Center

we didn’t come to the show.”says Rene Christopher, BRAX’s executive account manager. Elite stores like Barney’s, Nordstrom, Urban Outfitters, Dillard’s, and Free People were at MAGIC buying and filling their store shelves (and virtual ones) with exclusive collections of men, women and NCM-MARCH 2019 57

children’s clothing, shoes and accessories. The main reason why so many decide to come to MAGIC twice a year is because it’s where the fashion industry connects, communicates and conducts commerce on a larger scale than

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Exciting Events and Happenings On The Show Floor anywhere else. But MAGIC cares more than just your debits and credits and filling out line sheets; they care about your business’s internal growth and personal ROI’s. By holding events like panels from industry experts, concerts, happy hours and free product giveaways, companies going to MAGIC return smarter, happier, and richer! It’s about the experience which MAGIC provides that keep its people coming back for more. Below are some of the events that took place at MAGIC this February. Countless educational seminars were presented throughout the show to teach its audience about the everchanging fashion landscape. Talks about new age trends, transitioning to digital, and selling to the younger cohorts were among the topic from prominent companies and influencers like Complex, Highsnobiety, WGSN, and Raven Symoné. Crowds gathered to learn and ask questions about important facts and lessons on their malleable industry. One forum titled “How To Build A Brand That Millennials Love” spoke on where, how, and why the younger generation’s buy. Speaker Lizzie Eisenberg from Afterpay talked about how “millennials are more scared of credit card debt than they are of dying” while explaining why they’re different from their parent’s generation of buyers. What are the three components of a good party? Food, music, and libations; MAGIC had all three. Retailers and exhibitors got a chance to relax from the chaos of commerce to have a drink and some food everyday located throughout each show for a more laid back form of networking. During and

after each day of work, everyone got to enjoy concerts from well established artists both on the show floor and in Mandalay Convention Center’s (MBCC) premiere party venue LIGHT nightclub, where world famous rapper A$AP Ferg captivated the crowd well into the early hours of the morning at the PROJECT Party sponsored by Champion. The UK’s Jacob Banks and actress/singer Ashely Tisdale sang soulful melodies in both the MBCC and Las Vegas Convention Center respectively. Sustainability has been a main point of focus that the fashion industry has adhered to over the past several years and MAGIC wanted to highlight just a fraction of their brands who go the extra mile to be green. Down the main aisle of PROJECT WOMENS sat the Conscious Fashion Campaign display which showcased collections from brands who address the United Nation’s Sustainable Development goals. "The UN's campaign is dedicated to advancing fashion innovators that are addressing the world's most pressing issues. Here at MAGIC we get to unveil brands from all over the world to drive NCM-MARCH 2019 58

the needle towards conscious consumerism." says Kerry Bannigan who heads the Conscious Fashion Campaign for the UN. It gave retailers a chance to learn which booths were changing the world and taught some exhibitors how to reduce their carbon footprint a little bit more. Beginning in August 2019, MAGIC will be hosted under one roof, in one home, as one collective in the Las Vegas Convention Center. The decision to unify MAGIC was made to increase connectivity, cooperation and opportunity for its customers. Logistically, this means a shift from two venues to one. Fundamentally, it’s a new perspective and a sharpened commitment to building a singular, powerful experience for our entire industry. Unifying two marketplaces means heavier foot traffic and less time wasted for both buyers and exhibitors alike. “We actually have 3 booths at MAGIC and sending people to FN PLATFORM in LVCC takes up a lot of the day for us, so that would actually be ideal” says Jacqueline Brophy, national accounts manager at Joules,

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES right after she got wind of the news of the big move. Many retailers shop both venues and many exhibitors either have booths at both or shop at SOURCING to buy their materials. Commuting back and forth can be a time consumer and the decision to be able to relinquish that aspect of the show was an easy one for MAGIC. Informa is committed to reigniting the MAGIC ecosystem by investing in new experiences on the show floor, additional educational programs, year-round micro-events and initiatives that foster more business for our customers. The LVCC is also committed to improving their facilities by investing $860 million into an expansion and complete renovation, creating a state-of-the-art facility, which will make it the 2nd largest convention center in the world. In August, by investing more into the app we launched this February, ONE MAGIC will be fully mobile-supported, fully interlinked and equipped with bestin-class event technology. The MAGIC Las Vegas mobile app enables buyers to seamlessly navigate the new venue, locate relevant brands or products across all shows, and includes a convenient digital concierge service. Other features, such as matchmaking and expedited event entry complete the full complement of service enhancements customers can expect within the allnew mobile solution.

Las Vegas apparel industry gets attention at MAGIC show For two weeks each year, Las Vegas joins the likes of New York City and Paris as one of the world’s greatest fashion hubs. The biannual MAGIC fashion convention — which runs Tuesday through Thursday — will draw in nearly 78,000 industry experts from across the globe for one of the world’s largest fashion trade shows.

“During the week MAGIC is there … you’ve got a virtual, temporary fashion hub quality,” said Steve Lamar, executive vice president of the American Apparel & Footwear Association, a Washington-based trade association. “It certainly attracts the attention of the industry.”

minimum wage could incite apparel manufacturers and designers to move elsewhere, including nearby Nevada, said Will Duncan, executive director of North Carolina-based sewn-products industry networking association SEAMS.

But industry experts say Las Vegas’ apparel industry is far from being on par with the likes of New York City.

“That’s something Las Vegas could capitalize on,” he said. “I think there’s potential there where it could be a fashion hub.”

Opportunities to grow

The MAGIC convention also gives the city an advantage, Lamar said.

Las Vegas is “not really known” for its apparel industry, according to Timothy Ogburn, program support specialist for UNLV continuing education.

“It certainly attracts the attention of the industry,” he said.

The educational division at UNLV does offer a fashion design certificate program, but it’s the only one of its kind in the state, he said.

Lack of ecosystem

Lamar said he’s “not aware of natural design talent that’s out there” in Las Vegas. Nevada’s apparel manufacturing has been on the decline in recent years, according to data from the Nevada Department of Education, Training and Rehabilitation. In 2017, the average employment rate in this sector was less than one-sixth of what it was in 2006. Los Angeles’ rising cost of living and NCM-MARCH 2019 59

But the city has a long way to go.

According to a report from Los Angeles-based research company IBISWorld, Nevada made up only 0.1 percent of cut and sew manufacturers in the U.S. last year, while California accounted for 59 percent. Industry analyst Devin Savaskan said these factories tend to be located near major shipping areas. Landlocked Nevada’s lack of seaport access is putting it at a disadvantage. “While expected increased costs in California may encourage a few textile

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES mills and apparel manufacturers to relocate operations, the vast majority will still remain in major cities and major trade hubs,” Savaskan said. “This might make it difficult for Nevada to generate new business in the industry.” Houman Salem, founder and CEO of Los Angeles-based cut-and-sew manufacturer Argyle Haus of Apparel, said that is precisely the case for him.

Finding ways to cut costs in the industry will only become more pressing. The AAFA found 97 percent of all clothes sold in the U.S. were imported in 2018, and IBISWorld found revenue for the cut-and-sew manufacturing industry is expected to decline 2 percent nationwide over the next five years. That could mean limited growth opportunities for Nevada, Savaskan said. “This decline is expected to accelerate going forward,” he said. “Many companies are expected to continue to offshore operations to reduce wage costs in the face of declining revenue and profitability.” About UBM Fashions

Two years ago, Salem was ready to pack up his apparel manufacturing business and move it to Las Vegas. California had just seen its first minimum wage hike as part of 2016 state legislation, and Salem was looking for a more business-friendly environment nearby for his small business.

Uniting the most influential fashion retail decision makers and the world’s top fashion brands, UBM FashionOpens in a new window serves the $1 trillion+ global fashion industry through comprehensive marketplaces in New York, las Vegas (MAGIC), and most recently, Japan (MAGIC). Additionally, UBM serves as the leading organiser of Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Opens in a new window event in Asia. Our events cover all major fashion categories from men’s, women’s, and children’s apparel, accessories, and footwear to manufacturing resources and service providers.

Today, those plans are on hold; Salem said Las Vegas lacks the ecosystem necessary to run his business.

As the leading producer of world-renowned fashion tradeshows such as MAGIC, Coterie, PROJECT and FN PLATFORM, as well as established digital and media platforms, UBM aims to bring together great brands and retailers in superbly merchandised shows, provide superior customer service, and ultimately present end consumers with the best fashion products.

“Until textile providers move, I need to be close to Los Angeles. … A factory cannot exist in the desert in Las Vegas by itself without a support system,” he said. “What also isn’t (in Las Vegas) yet is a labor force. Not at the critical mass I would need.” Companies moving in There isn’t much of a garment labor force in Las Vegas, “but that’s not to say (there) won’t be soon,” Salem said. “Word is getting out.”

Over 11,600 Bangladesh garment workers lose jobs and face repression A massive wave of protesting garment workers demanding an increase of minimum wages swept across Bangladesh’s garment industry in December 2018 and January 2019. State repression following the protest has resulted in arrests and mass terminations of workers in more than a hundred garment manufacturing units. According to an estimate provided by the IndustriALL Bangladesh Council (IBC), the national coordinating body of affiliates of IndustriALL Global Union, over 11,600 workers have lost their jobs.

A growing apparel manufacturing industry in Las Vegas could be a major source of job growth; Salem said he’d need to hire at least 50 people just at the factory level.

Many of them, particularly senior grade workers, were forcefully made to resign, for the companies to avoid paying higher wages and social security benefits. The terminations came in the wake of marginal wage increases announced after protests by garment workers.

He said there’s a good chance those employees will be needed in Las Vegas within the next year and a half.

Employers and the police have filed cases against over 3,000 unidentified workers and about 70 workers have been arrested, some of them released on bail. Earlier this year, one worker was killed and many injured in the protests.

“It’s gotten to the point where every year, I have to raise prices to meet new regulations (in California). It’s not sustainable,” he said. The plan is to “open a production line (Las Vegas) … We’re waiting to see how the economy shapes up. ”

Still weeks after the protests, many workers fear being arrested on false charges. Large numbers of workers have faced threats of physical violence by hired goons if they continue to demand higher wages. It is difficult for terminated workers to find new employment, as the biometric data linked to their employment records are used to identify workers and deny employment, based on their involvement in trade union activities and protests. NCM-MARCH 2019 60

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Current gross minimum wages in Bangladesh

Valter Sanches, IndustriALL Global Union general secretary said: “We are shocked to see the false cases, arrests, terminations and violent threats against workers unleashed by the employers and the state machinery. Employers and brands need to end the climate of fear among workers and establish a work environment which respects workers’ right to freedom of association and effective recognition of the right to collective bargaining.” Salauddin Shapon, secretary general of IBC, said: “The arrests targeted union leaders and office bearers with the tacit support of employers in order to cripple union activities. The harassment needs to stop immediately. Employers and the government should withdraw all false cases against workers, and all unjust terminations and suspensions should be withdrawn. Employers should pay wages as announced by the government.” Terminated and suspended workers were working for companies producing for global brands including H&M, Inditex, KiK, Voegele, LIDL, Mango, Next, Matalan, VF, Takko, ALDI, Marks & Spencer, Puma, Wal Mart, JC Penny, Tesco, Stanley Stella and many others. Bangladesh Government set to throw away Accord achievements

The Bangladesh Government is set to throw away the achievements of the Bangladesh Accord, which was a response to the Rana Plaza building collapse in 2013 that claimed more than 1000 lives.

Garment workers in Chittagong, Bangladesh in support for the Accord Rather than negotiate a responsible handover of Accord functions, the Government of Bangladesh is intransigent in insisting that the Accord leaves Bangladesh by a fixed date, regardless of whether there is a competent safety authority to replace it. Joint statement IndustriALL Global Union and UNI Global Union Following the Accord appeal against a court order to leave Bangladesh on November 30 2018, the Bangladesh Appellate Court has granted a number of extensions of time for the Accord, the Government of Bangladesh and employer’s association BGMEA to reach agreement with on how the Accord’s functions should be handed over. The Accord developed a detailed and responsible plan which was submitted to both parties in September 2018. The plan is based on transferring responsibility for inspection and remediation of Accord factories in stages, based on demonstrated capacity of the responsible government body, RCC, to take over these functions. The Government has consistently refused to accept any conditions for the handover of factories, claiming (without presenting any evidence) that the RCC has already met all readiness indicators which were developed by the ILO and agreed by the Government. Both the ILO and the European Commission have repeatedly stated that the RCC is far from being ready to take NCM-MARCH 2019 61

over the Accord functions. Nearly 200 international brands and retailers signed the 2018 Accord because there was still no adequate government regulation five years after Rana Plaza. Little has changed since then. The government’s claim to readiness is further undermined by its refusal to include any criteria in an agreed transition plan. With no transparency and no verifiable assurance that the unprecedented level factory safety achieved by the Accord will be maintained, global brands sourcing from Bangladesh cannot take the risk of a return to conditions that led to the collapse of Rana Plaza in 2013. The parties are due to appear again before the Appellate Court on February 18 to report the results of their negotiations. The union and brand representatives negotiating on behalf of the Accord have written to the Government and the BGMEA in a last ditch effort to reach agreement on a responsible transition plan. If the Government remains unwilling to provide credible assurances, the parties will need to report to the Court that no agreement was reached. It is unclear how the Court will react, but an abrupt decision that the Accord must immediately depart Bangladesh is a likely outcome. After more than 5 years of intensive work and investment through the Accord, which has resulted in an unprecedented level of safety in Bangladesh garment factories, it is extraordinary

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES that the Government is prepared to throw this away, to once again put the lives of its millions of garment workers in danger and to risk the reputation of the Bangladesh garment industry.

Canada and more than 8,00,000 members continent-wide, also demanded dropping charges against workers involved in demonstrations in December last year, as well as those charges that remained unsettled following the protests in 2016 demanding wage hike.

Why 50,000 Garment Workers in Bangladesh Went on Strike?

Saurav Sarkar’s report in “In These Times” portal gives the following details on “Why 50,000 Garment Workers in Bangladesh Went on Strike?: With the sixth anniversary approaching of the Rana Plaza building collapse that killed over 1,000 workers, conditions in the world’s second-largest garment export industry are tumultuous. Fifty thousand garment workers in Bangladesh went on strike for higher wages and were met with rubber bullets and tear gas. The minimum wage in the garment industry was recently raised 50 percent, but still stands at just $95 a month. Five thousand have been fired as a result of the strikes and property destruction the striking workers are accused of. Bangladesh’s highest court has ordered shut down the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, an innovative institution monitoring workplace health and safety created five years ago and the country's Supreme Court is deliberating on whether to confirm the order.. In response, activists have organized a week of solidarity protests in front of Bangladeshi government offices, including in Washington, D.C., New York, and London. The International Labor Rights Forum and Clean Clothes Campaign will also be delivering letters of protest to Bangladeshi government offices in cities around the world in addition to the eight cities where demonstrations were held. The groups are demanding living wages for garment workers, safe factories, and an end to repression against garment workers in Bangladesh. The two non-profits are encouraging participants to take pictures of their Made in Bangladesh clothing for social media. The Accord was established as the result of a legally binding agreement

between international brands - predominantly European - and Bangladeshi unions to address the issues that led to the Rana Plaza collapse in 2013, the worst industrial disaster in the history of the garment sector. For the past five years, the Accord has inspected factories and educated workers on workplace safety and their rights. The Accord inspected more than 2,000 factories employing more than two million workers and found over 150,000 safety violations. Eighty-five percent of violations from the Accord’s initial inspections were remedied, leaving at least half the factories far safer than before. It will be replaced by a govt body that collaborates with manufacturers and the international brands. Bangladesh’s government, while it recently raised the minimum wage in the garment industry, is notoriously pro-management. In 2013, 10 percent of the country’s Parliament was made up of garment manufacturers, and union officials have alleged that the government’s security forces have harassed, tortured, and even murdered worker activists. Global labour rights group demands release of arrested RMG workers The United Steelworkers, one of the largest unions in North America and Canada, has urged the Bangladesh government to release immediately all the garment workers and union representatives arrested on ‘trumped-up charges’ due to demonstration protesting against the inadequate minimum wage increase. The USW, the largest private sector union in North America with more than 2,25,000 members in NCM-MARCH 2019 62

‘We are deeply concerned about the repressive measures taken in the last two months against workers protesting against the wholly inadequate minimum wage increase announced in November 2018, as well as the unequal treatment of workers in different pay grades,’ Ken Neumann, national director for Canada of the USW, said in a letter. The letter was sent to Bangladesh high commissioner in Canada Mizanur Rahman on Jan. 29. The labour rights group said that for the past two months, garment workers had been taking the streets in massive numbers to demand a decent living wage for their work and the protests had been met with violence and repression by Bangladeshi authorities. The USW in its letter said that thousands of workers had been terminated by employers and dozens of charges had been filed against workers and leaders. Many workers had been arrested and remained in custody. ‘Recent developments in Bangladesh threaten progress that has been made in garment factory building safety since Rana Plaza, and undermine commitments to worker rights’. The USW urged Bangladesh to respect the rights of workers working in the RMG sector to living wages and to stop repression against the workers. ‘Respect of workers’ rights is fundamental to building a sustainable Bangladesh garment sector into the future,’ Neumann said. The USW also requested Bangladesh’s Supreme Court to lift the restraining order and ensure that the Accord on Building and Fire Safety in Bangladesh can continue its operations for the duration of the 3-year transition agreement or until the designated oversight committee determines that the Remediation and Coordination Cell is capable of taking over its tasks.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES National Sheep Association (NSA) stresses that wool is both high welfare and environmentally sustainable “WOOL IS the most sustainable fibre on earth” – that was the key message the National Sheep Association had for the National Trust when it announced it was searching for a 'more sustainable' garment for staff and members to replace its current reliance on synthetic materials. NSA encouraged the National Trust to use wool, and re-emphasised the animal welfare reasons behind shearing following suggestions from ‘animal rights’ groups that shearing sheep is cruel. Writing to the National Trust encouraging it to consider wool as a viable product for its fleece garments, promoting wool as a renewable, natural and reliable British product. NSA chief executive Phil Stocker commented: “The vast majority of sheep in the UK are extensively grazed on grass that grows on little more than sunshine, rain and soil nutrients. In doing so grassland soils sequester carbon and help combat global warming. I would argue that wool is the most sustainable fibre on earth and that it is the ultimate in renewable technology. "It seems ironic that we call that garment – the fleece – after a sheep fleece yet most ‘fleeces’ are manufactured from plastic materials and when washed contribute to polluting our oceans and environment. The truth is that British wool has largely become a by-product from sheep farming. Although there are specialist wool producers that buck the trend, most of the wool is shorn in the early summer to improve the welfare of the sheep and to prevent flies laying their eggs within the fleece and causing serious welfare problems.

Wool - the ultimate renewable fibre "Wool grows back naturally and by the winter the sheep has a well-insulated and protective weather proof coat. It seems to me that the interests and philosophy of the National Trust align perfectly with the properties of British wool and I’d challenge the Trust to either choose wool or invest in wool based garment development that could contribute significantly to the sustainability agenda.” This message followed NSA’s recent criticism of fashion companies such as ‘Boohoo’, which only last week stated that it would be removing all items containing wool from sale, only to revoke this move just days later following condemnation from the sheep industry as well as a wide group of consumers. Mr Stocker added: “Organisations should take more time to look closely at wool production and the sustainability credentials of the British sheep industry before making rash and uninformed decisions.”

Leading Chinese textile maker starts to build huge factory in Cambodia Xinhua reports from Phnom Penh that Shenzhou International Group Holdings, a leading Chinese clothing manufacturer, recently broke ground for the construction of a new USD150 million garment factory after operating in Cambodia for 14 years. Deputy Commander-in-Chief of the Royal Cambodian Armed Forces Lieutenant General Hun Manet and Chinese Ambassador to Cambodia Wang Wentian, attended the groundbreaking ceremony for the factory, dubbed Marvel Garment Co, inside the Phnom Penh Special Economic Zone on the western outskirts of Phnom Penh. Manet said the company’s expansion truly reflected its confidence in Cambodia’s peace, stability and development. “Cambodia has become a huge and successful base for the company to produce garments for Nike,” he said. “This new investment importantly contributes to helping developing Cambodia’s Industrial Development Policy 2015-2025”. Manet, who is also the commander of the Royal Cambodian Army, was confident that with support and incentive provided by the government in combinaNCM-MARCH 2019 63

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES tion with the firm’s successful experience, the garment maker would continue to grow stronger in years to come. “The company’s success has not only benefitted the company itself, but also contributed to boosting Cambodia’s economy and creating jobs for Cambodian people,” he said. Ma Jianrong, Chairman of Shenzhou International Group Holdings, said the firm had invested in Cambodia since 2005. “Through 14 years of operation here, we deeply appreciate the supportive policy made by the Cambodian government and the hard work and dedication to jobs by the people in this country,” he said. Sam Ma, an assistant to the general manager of Shenzhou International Group Holdings, said after over a decade in Cambodia, the firm had developed itself into the biggest textile manufacturer in Cambodia, with an export value of USD440 million last year and employing some 11,500 Cambodian workers. “On this basis, we decided to make full use of the factory’s experience in Cambodia to further expand the production capacity and facilities in Cambodia,” he said. The USD150 million factory is scheduled to be completed in March 2021.The assistant added that when completed, the factory will create 17,000 jobs. Nike’s Vice President Mark Griffie said Shenzhou has grown to be one of Nike’s largest and most important apparel suppliers. “The first shipment for Nike from Shenzhou Cambodia was in 2007. From that start 12 years ago, our business together in Cambodia has grown tremendously and today more than 3,000 Shenzhou employees in Cambodia produce products for Nike,” he said. “The majority of the Nike products manufactured here serve our customers in Europe.” “Cambodia has been an important country for Shenzhou and for Nike,” Griffie said. “With the new factory that will be built on this site, we look forward to continued growth together in Cambodia for many years to come.”

Chinese knitwear giant Shenzhou International Group Holdings has announced that construction is underway in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, on a new US$150 garment manufacturing facility. Shenzhou International Group Holdings Limited (“Shenzhou International”) and its subsidiaries (the “Group”) represent the largest vertically integrated knitwear manufacturer in China. The Group is principally engaged in the manufacture of high-end knitwear on an OEM basis. The Group is also one of the largest exporters of knitwear.

Nancy Pelosi’s red coat back on sale after its viral moment The red coat worn by House Speaker Nancy Pelosi that set the Internet ablaze is back on sale — for a price. The California Democrat wore the Max Mara garment in December after an explosive Oval Office meeting with President Trump. As she walked out of the West Wing after the heated discussion, she wore the rust-colored coat, sunglasses, and a smile.

(Photo Courtesy: AP, Andrew Harnik)

Twitter users had hoped they could purchase the outerwear, but it was part of a years-old line. The coat’s renewed popularity inspired Max Mara to give the coat a second run. “Following the viral success of Nancy Pelosi wearing Max Mara’s Fire Coat, the brand is excited to announce the reinstitution of this iconic style,” Max Mara said in a statement, according to HuffPost. “Designed in 2011 (FW 2012 collection), Ms. Pelosi wore it for the first time to attend the second inauguration of Barack Obama as President of the United States in January 2013, and again in December 2018 to attend a meeting with President Trump.” The cashmere and wool coat is selling for $2,990 on the designer’s website and in stores. It’s not clear whether it’s selling for the same price it did more than 5 years ago. NCM-MARCH 2019 64

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NEWS BRIEFS Conference On "Technology Options for Sustainable Growth of Indian Chemical Industry" held by UDCT Alumni Association (UAA) in Ahmedabad The UDCT Alumni Association (UAA) & the UAA Ahmedabad Chapter organised a 1-day Seminar on "Technology Options for Sustainable Growth of Indian Chemical Industry" on February 9, 2019 to celebrate the completion of 25 years of the UDCT Alumni Association (UAA)- Ahmedabad Chapter. The Silver Jubilee Seminar was held in the HT Parekh Hall of the Ahmedabad Management Association (AMA). Prof. M.M. Sharma, a world-renowned chemical engineering scientist and Former Director of ICT, Mumbai, was the chief guest of the programme. His Keynote Address covered the topic of Innovations in Chemical Industry. Incidentally, Prof. MM Sharma was the initiator and mentor of the foundation of the UDCT Alumni Association Ahmedabad Chapter which was inaugutated by him twenty five years ago. Prof. G.D. Yadav, Vice Chancellor, ICT, in his address at the openning session, made a presentation on "Green Chemistry & Engineering in the Safer & Benign Manufacture of Chemicals, Materials & Energy" and highlighted the key role of ICT being played in this area. He also gave details of the ICT's research activities and ambitious expansion plans including future ones. Prof. Yadav gave the following information related to the upcoming ICT campuses to the audience, most of whom were UDCT alumni. 1. Maharashtra Govt. has offered 203 acres land for ICT Marahthwada,

Prof. G.D. Yadav, Vice Chancellor, ICT, at the openning session, with a presentation on "Green Chemistry & Engineering in the Safer & Benign Manufacture of Chemicals, Materials & Energy" Jalna off-Campus. It was inauguration on May 4, 2018 by the Chief Minister of Maharashtra. 2. ICT Mumbai IndianOil Odisha Campus in Bhubaneswar, was inaugurated by Honâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ble President of India, on March 18, 2018. It is supported by the Indian Oil Corporation supports 3. This is the first example of Industry suppor ted campus. IIT Kharagpur has joined for Research and Innovation Centre Innovative programmes: Integrated M.Tech. (Trimester, 2 year internship), Executive M. Tech., and Ph D. programmes, involving intense industry interactions, will be offered. All the three campuses, mentioned above, will be Centres of Excellence in Research and Innovation. Prof. Yadav said that ICT was no longer just a Chemical Technology institute. ICT has successfully integrated Chemical Sciences, Engineering and Technology; Product Engineering, Materials Sciences and Engineering, Biological Sciences, Engineering and Technology, Energy Science and Engineering. The Institute is now leading in research in the fields of Green, Nano, Bio technologies. NCM-MARCH 2019 65

Prof. Yadav also talked about a number of research projects where Green Chemistry and Engineering were play a significant role in the development of sustainable processes and waste minimization. Prof. Yadav disussed several novel projects - undertaken and ongoing - at the ICT and highlighted the following key points: 1. Understanding role of pores, particles and interfaces will help in developing cleaner and greener processes. 2. Use of waste biomass, carbon dioxide, water, air and sunlight will lead to sustainability. 3. Nothing is waste but wealth and a systems engineering approach should be helpful in best use of materials and energy. Earlier, the programme started with the welcome speech by Shri Sanjay Shah, Chairman of the UAAAhmedabad Chapter, who briefed the delegates about the history of the Ahmedabad Chapter and also about it's activities. Shri Sanjay Shah said that the UAA and all of its Chapters in India and abroad were actively engaged in supporting ICT in all its endeavours. The

NEWS BRIEFS support was made possible through generous financial contributions especially from alumni and from industry. Shri Shah informed the audience that the Silver Jubilee committee of the Ahmedabad Chapter in charge of organising the one-day seminar was targeting a handsome donation to support two important projects that the UAA is currently involved with at ICT: 1. Upgradation of laboratory infrastructure to make it world-class; and 2. Supporting student welfare activities, including, providing loans, scholarships etc. to needy students. Shri Shah informed that already Rs. 65 lakhs target was achieved. He said that the student welfare activities would also be done by the UAAAhmedabad Chapter from part of the funds collected. Prof. Padma Devrajan, President of the UAA, in her speech gave details about the association and its activities. "Our Alumni Association is just 30 years old. We have about 6500 members and nine chapters across the country of which I must put on record that the Ahmedabad is one of the most active chapters we have," she said bringing cheers to all the members present in the hall. She also informed that UAA had six chapters across the world including two in USA. Prof. Devrajan announced that there was soon going to be a third chapter in the west coast of USA bringing the total overseas number to seven. Prof. Devrajan also informed that UAA was spearheading a very important activity at ICT, which is the introduction of short weekend refresher course on Chemical Technology practices. According to her the course curriculum was being finalised by her colleagues and would be ready soon. "Since 2018, we've started a student innovation competition where students are asked to submit an idea and make a three minute on-the-spot presenta-

Shri Sanjay Shah, Chairman of the UAA-Ahmedabad Chapter, giving his welcome address

Prof. Padma Devrajan, President of the UAA, delivering her speech "We have started inviting distinguished alumni so our students can interact with them. Students are so happy to connect to alumni. This kind of interaction charges them up not only personally but also towards their love for ICT. Unless we build up that love for the alma mater, or love for the Institute, initially, which turns into your alma mater, it does not work because it's very difficult to reach out to alumni and create the passion. We must create the passion inside and send them out. And that is what we are trying now as a new method." Prof. Padma Devrajan tion on their ideas. We are promoting innovation and in view of very encouraging response ICT is working on the idea to set up an Innovation Council," Prof. Devrajan informed.

instituting awards, providing loans to needy students, arranging factory visits etc. She exhorted members to come forward and help in whatever way it suits them.

Prof. Devrajan sought support from alumni for infrastructure development,

"ICT is growing and the number of students has expanded. We need your

NCM-MARCH 2019 66

NEWS BRIEFS

Prof. MM Sharma delevering Keynote Address on "Innovations in the Chemical Industry" support in summer internships and job placements. We have launched a mentoring program which has received reasonably good support but it requires institutional level support. Mentoring is another very, very important area where you can support from wherever you are." Prof. Devrajan urged members to participate in large numbers in the celebrations to be held in May to commemorate three decades of excellence on the occasion of UAA's completion of 30 years. Keynote Address on "Innovations in the Chemical Industry" by Prof. MM Sharma It was a proud moment for all those present in the hall to be in the company of Prof. MM Sharma who needed absolutely no introduction. Listening to him is always a treat and one has to be really lucky to have an opportunity for that treat. In his Address, Prof. Sharma traced the history of chemical innovation since the early 1850s to current innovations and emphasized utility of chemical industries in daily life. According to him soda ash - bulk of which (90% plus) in the country is made in Gujarat - was the first major innova-

Brief Profile of Professor MM Sharma Professor Man Mohan Sharma obtained Bachelor of Chemical Engineering (1958) from UDCT (ICT) and subsequently MSc (Tech) in 1960. He obtained PhD (Chemical Engineering) (1964) at Cambridge University with PV Danckwerts. In 1964, he returned to India as Professor at the University of Bombay, and later became Director of the University Department of Chemical Technology (UDCT), now ICT (Institute of Chemical Technology A Deemed University). He remained as Professor for 33 years at UDCT, along with 8 years as Director of this Institute. He has been honored by several universities including IITs by honorary doctorates. Professor Sharma made contributions to chemical engineering science and technology. His research interests include: Heterogeneous gas-solid-liquid reactions, Phase transfer and Solid catalysis, He has contributed extensively on the role of microphases in multiple reactions which he pioneered. He also became an independent Editor of Chemical Engineering Science at a young age. Prof MM Sharma's Research Tree presented on June 9, 2017 - at a function held at the ICT to celebrate his 80th birthday - mentions that he has guided 71 PhDs. These PhDs have guided 450 in turn 400 and in turn 50 totaling close to 1000 students. Professor Sharma is a recipient of a number of prestigious academic honours and awards including the 1977 Moulton Medal of the Institution of Chemical Engineers. He won the Leverhulme Medal of the Royal Society for his work on "the dynamics of multi-phase chemical reactions in industrial processes". Prof Sharma became the first engineering scientist from India to be honoured with Fellowship of Royal Society (FRS) in 1990. This is considered to be one of the highest honours after the Nobel Prize. He was awarded the Padma Vibhushan (2001), and Padma Bhushan (1987) by the President of India. He was INSA President (1989-90). tion in the history of chemical industry. The process developed then solved a major process drawback by replacing a polluting process. Hence, you may say that this was the first NCM-MARCH 2019 67

example of sustainable process way back in 1865. Prof. Sharma talked extensively about milestones in chemical engineering

NEWS BRIEFS like the development of Solvay process, Leblanc process, the contribution of chemist Wallace Carothers in inventing neoprene and nylon and many other major achievements of chemists. Dramatic innovations have taken place over the last 100 years leading to lower pollution, lower power consumption, lower installation costs and overall lower cost of production. The process development/improvement never ends. No technology is ever mature. So innovation is a continuing process.

Soda ash used to be manufactured using salt, limestone, sulphuric acid, and coal in the early 19th century. The process was was far from an ideal solution because of expense of its inputs and its polluting byproducts (including hydrogen chloride gas). The Solvay process or ammonia-soda process is the first example of sustainable process for the production of sodium carbonate (soda ash, Na2CO3).The ammonia-soda process was developed into its modern form by Ernest Solvay in 1865. Gujarat is home to caustic soda also. A number of caustic-chlorine plants. Dramatic innovations have taken place in this area. People have forgotten that Tata Chemicals first used to make caustic soda by causticization of soda ash (causticization of lime which was already present in the soda ash plant). From there we came to diaphragm cells and asbestos became a curse so we moved on to mercury cells. Brilliant! In the mercury cell process, sodium forms an amalgam (a 'mixture' of two metals) with the mercury at the cathode. The amalgam reacts with the water in a separate reactor called a decomposer where hydrogen gas and caustic soda solution at 50% are produced. The mercury process used the most electricity, but no steam was required to concentrate the caustic solution. However, the use of mercury demanded measures to prevent envi-

Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT) Founded on October 1, 1933, Institute of Chemical Technology, earlier known as University Department of Chemical Technology (UDCT), is India's premier teaching and research institute exclusively focussed on the chemical and allied industries. Declared as a Deemed-to-be University on September 12, 2008 by the Ministry of Human Resource Development, it was granted Elite Status and Centre of Excellence by the Maharashtra government in recognition of its stellar performance on part with institutes of national eminence in April 2012. ICT has been growing by leaps and bounds and has received many accolades. It is rated as the top-ranking institute under NAAC with an exceptional score of 3.77 and an A++ grade. The most recent laurels of ICT include its expansion with one new campus in Jalna, near Aurangabad, supported by the Government of Maharashtra with a grant of ~Rs. 400crores, and another campus at Bhubaneshwar (Odisha) supported by Indian Oil Corporation Ltd, with a grant of Rs. 500-crores. ICT conducts nine Under-Graduate programmes in Chemical Engineering; six branches of Chemical Technology (Dyestuff Technology; Fibres & Textiles Processing Technology; Food Engineering and Technology; Oils, Oleochemicals & Surfactants Technology; Pharmaceutical Sciences & Technology; and Polymer & Surface Engineering), and Pharmacy. In addition, it conducts 18 Post-Graduate and 29 Ph.D. programmes, amongst others. At the two new campuses ICT runs five-year Integrated M.Tech. programme with a unique model where the student spends alternate semesters in industry to gain handson training. An Executive M.Tech. degree is also a unique programme at the new campuses. The faculty is highly accomplished, with multi-disciplinary interests and decorated with national and international awards and honours. ICT has a glorious history, having produced many industrialists, academics, bureaucrats, Padma awardees, secretaries to Government Departments, directors of CSIR labs and over 500 first generation entrepreneurs.

The UDCT Alumni Association (UAA) The UAA was founded in 1989 with the idea of connecting alumni with their alma mater. UAA now has more than 6,400 members nine Chapters in India (at Ahmedabad, Ankleshwar, Aurangabad, Delhi-NCR Region, Hyderabad, Kolhapur Region, Pune, Tarapur and Vapi); and in China, Singapore, Thailand, UK and USA (in Atlanta and Houston). The Objectives of UAA are to foster fellowship and provide a forum to bring together alumni for their progress; Provide opportunities to alumni, students, teachers and nonteaching staff of ICT for academic and professional advancement; Help alumni contribute to development of ICT and society at large; and promote education and employment enhancing skills at ICT. Management of UAA is vested in a honorary Board of Governors (BOG) that gets renewed every two years. The UAA has an Advisory Council comprising very senior alumni and Past Presidents. Although the UAA is an independent body, it works in close liaison with ICT and its management. NCM-MARCH 2019 68

NEWS BRIEFS ronmental contamination. Also, mercury must be removed from the hydrogen gas and caustic soda solution.

The fate of mercury process was sealed due to incidents of mercury poisoning in Minamata and Niigata in 1972. Japan started switching to membrane cells, and today it has no more mercury cells in operation. Japan was the first major chlorine producing country to convert entirely to membrane cell technology. Later, we moved on to an extraordinarily innovative process of membrane cell technology. I want you to sing praises for membrane cell because it's truly extraordinary in many ways. The science and technology of membrane cell arose out of a space program in America. A type of membrane which allows sodium to go through and kicks out chloride so that you get caustic soda all the way up to strength well above 32% with no chlorine. So, you call it rayon grade. The concern over environmental problems associated with mercury cell plants initiated a revival of interest in the membrane-cell technology. Initial problems associated with membrane cells were steadily being alleviated in the early 1970s. The development of metal anodes negated problems associated with graphite anode erosion. The importance of fuel cells for the chlorine industry is known. Now we have caustic chlorine plants with the internal fuel cell. Electricity consumption is the key parameter to measure the competiveness of a chlorine plant, being electricity up to 60% of the variable production costs. With the most up to date electrolysis technologies, the electricity consumption can be considered close to the thermodynamic limit, leaving only a small space for further power savings. The two possible breakthrough toward the reduction of power consumption for the electrolysis are both related to the use of the hydrogen available in the plant. A fuel cell system that is com-

Reliving old memories: Prof. MM Sharma with his classmate (1958) Shri Shirish M. Parikh, Chairman, Macro Polymers Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad. Government Recognized Star Export House, Macro Polymers manufactures Synthetic Resin for Paints, Printing Inks, Wood Coating Lacquers and Adhesive Industries. Shri Shirish M. Parikh started the factory in 1962.

"My dear friends and dear alumni, chemical industry is a very charming industry. It is sometimes blamed unfairly. They say we are polluters. But we are also the persons who get rid of all the pollution. Let me give you the most outstanding example. H2S emissions coming out of natural gas and the petroleum refining operations were absolute nuisance. Those of you old enough who remember when you traveled to Europe and went past Middle East you could see flares. The whole sky was lit. The flares were up burning also H2S, and SO2 was being emitted. How that liabilities have been converted into an asset that all the sulphur today in the world is recovered sulfur and not mined sulphur. So much sulphur is recovered today that people are trying to invent new uses of sulfur like mixing with asphalt and many other uses. You look at the amount of sulphur that comes in Jamnagar. Every refinery has sulphur. Now how did it happen? The cross-process that when H2S is burned you get SO2. H2S reacts with SO2 but you didn't want any emission after this reaction of H2S and SO2. So there was a follow-on reactor which operated at lower temperature favoring thermodynamics and you have practically no emission. You walk past any refinery you will not smell any SO2 or H2S. So, this is where you see extraordinary innovations." Prof. MM Sharma pletely embedded into the electrolysis process, installed inside or close to the cell room, built in full compliance with the safety regulations and with customers technical standards, NCM-MARCH 2019 69

with a balanced tradeoff between the maximum system simplification and its safe performances. Other approaches are possible, such as the installation of fuel cells running on

NEWS BRIEFS Renaissance of the Fischerâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Tropsch process: Refineries have to move towards making more and more petrochemicals Petrochemicals are chemical products made from raw materials of petroleum or other hydrocarbon origin. Although some of the chemical compounds that originate from petroleum may also be derived from coal and natural gas, petroleum is the major source. The largest petrochemical industries are to be found in the USA and Western Europe, though the major growth in new production capacity is in the Middle East and Asia. There is a substantial Prof. MM Sharma interregional trade in petrochemicals of all kinds. World production of ethylene is around 110 million tons per year, of propylene 65 million tons, and of aromatic raw materials 70 million tons. Petroleum refineries are marvels of modern engineering. Within them a maze of pipes, distillation columns, and chemical reactors turn crude oil into valuable products. Large refineries cost billions of dollars, employ several thousand workers, operate around the clock, and occupy the same area as several hundred football stadiums. The U.S. has about 300 refineries that can process anywhere between 40 and 400,000 barrels of oil a day. These refineries turn out the gasoline and chemical feedstocks that keep the country running.

"Refineries have to move towards making more and more petrochemicals. There are precursors of naphthalene which you can get entirely from petroleum refinery and not from coal tar. A lot of naphthalene is imported in India. Similarly, huge quantities of toluene, styrene, PVC, acetic acid, methanol etc. are imported. All these products can be made in India," said Dr. Sharma. He cited the example of South Africa's largest refinery, Sasol, located at Sandton near Johannesburg. Dr. Sharma predicted that within five years, at least 30% of the total capacity in some of the refineries will be utilized for petrochemicals and within another two years thereafter, it will be 50-60%. Prof. Sharma also foresees renaissance of the Fischerâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Tropsch process which is a collection of chemical reactions that converts a mixture of carbon monoxide and hydrogen into liquid hydrocarbons. The current interest in FischerTropsch synthesis has grown up as consequences of environmental demands and changes in fossil energy reserves. Fischer-Tropsch is a desirable technology producing high quality end product: ultra-clean fuel or major chemical feedstock.

Fischer-Tropsch technology - overview

Source: Sasol Technology R&D

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NEWS BRIEFS Over the coming decade, demand for oil from the transportation sector – which accounts for about 50 per cent of total oil consumption – is set to reduce as a result of electric vehicles, biofuels, strict emission regulations and higher fuel efficiencies.

Some of the comments/observations made by Prof. MM Sharma in his Address are listed below: 1. The birth of chemical industry is related with the textile industry. Reverse osmosis has become a household name. How it has been made possible? Because you could make hollow fibre, and hollow fibre was the gift from textiles. Textile industry is the mother industry.

Crude demand will be driven by the chemical sector instead, at a rate of 4 per cent per annum – equivalent to more than half of total oil demand growth – through to 2035.

2. We are at a very advanced state globally of researchers approving a new stable catalyst capable of synthesizing methanol at low pressures using only hydrogen and carbon dioxide. This will change entirely the method of making methanol and making ammonia. All this is something very good that will happen.

The drivers behind petrochemicals demand, which is expected to more than double over the next 20 years, include population increase, improving living standards and demographic changes, particularly in developing economies in Africa and Asia. purified hydrogen form the chlorine plant. All these process developments are related to the title of sustainability but it has now become fashionable these days to talk but green chemistry. The sustainable part has been the integral part of chemical industry from the very beginning. Example of caustic soda, nitric acid, ammonia clearly show how process problems solving leads to more greener, cheaper and sustainable environment.

Source: Sasol Limited)

Prof. Sharma predicted that the most dramatic change in coming years is going to be that you will see most petroleum refineries will turn around and go from fuels predominantly to petrochemicals because fuel consumption will keep on coming down thanks to more efficient cars and electric vehicles. Now, this is what we call a revolutionary change that is going to come and therefore unlike earlier days, all refineries are now talking about going petrochemical.

Methanol is processed in huge factories at very high pressures using hydrogen, carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide from natural gas. There is a need for materials than can make methanol from clean sources under lowpressure conditions, while generating low amounts of carbon monoxide. The goal is a process that can be scaled up to the industrial level while remaining nonpolluting and carbon neutral. Imagine if you could synthesize methanol using hydrogen from renewable sources, such as water split by sunlight, and carbon dioxide captured from power plants and other traditional industrial smokestacks. Eventually we would also like to make higher alcohols, such as ethanol and propanol, which, unlike methanol, can be directly added to gasoline today. Research Scientists from Stanford University, SLAC National Accelerator Laboratory and the Technical University of Denmark, by combining theory and experimentation, have created a new nickel-gallium (Ni5Ga3) catalyst that could be used to convert hydrogen and carbon dioxide emissions into methanol. The tests have confirmed - “at high temperatures, nickel-gallium produced more methanol than the conventional copper-zinc-aluminum catalyst, and considerably less of the carbon monoxide byproduct.”

"The Kingdom of Heaven runs on righteousness, but the Kingdom of Earth runs on OIL!" Dr. Donald L. Miller Professor of History and an expert on World War II

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NEWS BRIEFS Technology Options for Sustainable Textile Processing Dr. AV Prasad Managing Director, Archroma India Pvt. Ltd.

Dr AV Prasad has Master’s degree in textile chemistry and a very impressive career. He started his career in the production department in Century Mills. He has been with Clariant and later with Sandoz. He grew from a technical executive to Vice President, Senior Vice President and to the Country Head in textiles. He was the Global Head of new business development handling innovation projects for alliances, joint ventures and collaborations. He has published more than hundred articles and presented more than hundred papers in major seminars. Excerpts of Dr AV Prasad’s speech at the Conference On “Technology Options for Sustainable Growth of Indian Chemical Industry” held by UDCT Alumni Association (UAA) in Ahmedabad I would like to take you to the journey of what’s happening in textiles and what are the challenges for the textile industry. Before I get into that, I just want to make you aware about Archroma. Many people would know Sandoz quite well. Many people would know Hoechst quite well. Many people would know BASF quite well and also a lot of companies in this domain. We have gone through this acquisition process in the last 20 years and a lot of consolidation has happened in this whole process. And now we are here as Archroma having five companies in our portfolio. Overall, we got very good products in the acquisitions including lot of leather chemicals and a few products mainly for the construction industry. First, I’ll show you a short video. What’s the problem of textiles? The whole value chain of textiles from the

Dr AV Prasad speaking on "Technology Options for Sustainable Textile Processing" Archroma is a global color and specialty chemicals company headquartered in Reinach near Basel, Switzerland. It operates with 3,000 employees over 35 countries and with 24 production sites. Its three businesses – Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, Packaging & Paper Specialties, and Coatings, Adhesives & Sealants – deliver specialized performance and color solutions to meet customers’ needs in their local markets, touching and coloring people’s lives every day, everywhere. Archroma was formed in October 2013 from the textile, paper and emulsions businesses of Clariant. Clariant itself was formed in 1995 as a spin off from Sandoz, a chemical company which was established in Basel in 1886. In 1997, Clariant acquired the speciality chemicals business of Hoechst, a German chemical company. Since then, Archroma has been growing organically and with its first acquisitions: – In May 2014: 49% in M. Dohmen SA, an international group specializing in the production of textile dyes and chemicals for the automotive, carpet and apparel sectors; – In July 2015: The global textile chemicals business of BASF; – In September 2017: An additional share of 26% in M. Dohmen, giving Archroma a controlling 75% participation in the M. Dohmen group. Through this direct lineage, Archroma has knowledge and experience of chemistry and industry spanning more than 130 years. fiber to the retail doesn’t end there. It’s also the recycling part at the end of the day. Everything is under squeeze. Everything is about profit making and you can see this in the video which is made by JP Morgan. This is a two hour movie - called True cost - which you can watch on YouTube. The movie shows to the college students and to the brands NCM-MARCH 2019 72

what we're doing to the environment and ecology by unethical means. How we are spoiling the environment. Everything has been captured very well in the film and I’ll just show you a small trailer of that. It shows what problems are happening in Bangladesh. This shows what is happening with the garment factories collapsing. It shows unethical means

NEWS BRIEFS in which the procedures are not being followed. The amount of pile of cotton waste like mountains lying around the world. And what do we do with that? Recycling of cotton is one of the biggest challenges because of two major reasons. One is that most of the fabric is dyed with reactive dyes which are covalently bound. You can destroy the chromophore but the covalent bond cannot be destroyed. So it doesn’t help you in the process of the first stage of recycling what is called ‘stripping’. And then the next stage is the dissolution part. The other big problem is the resins which we use there. They also cause a lot of problems because resins are also cross linking. We are coming out with new technologies where we are going away from the chemistry of reactive dyes. We’re looking at Sulfur dyes which can be stripped off easily as they don’t form the covenant bond. So, this helps in a way for the recycling. Then we need to find alternatives to resin which can be stripped and go forward. And in terms of various things, which we’re doing around as a company finding ways for every chemistry which is there, which we can make it more ecological. One of the big topics which we have been discussing is concerning the washing machines. As you know that earlier there was the use of various anionic detergents. We call AOS chemistry or SOS chemistry. But now there’s more of glucosides which are fully biodegradable and can be used for hand wash and home cleaning purposes. Most of these big companies like Procter & Gamble are good at changing the words that reflects the technology but this helps in a way. They claim that OECD method shows that 100% degradation takes place in 28 days. But normally our detergent which we use is not going beyond 85%. 15% still remains after 28 days, which we need to be treating today.

Mr. Satish Shah, Hon. Treasurer, UAA - Ahmedabad Chapter (Right) presenting a memento to Dr. AV Prasad, Managing Director, Archroma India Pvt. Ltd. We started off in the hand wash in a big way. But no textile mill has started using because of the cost. But you know it very well. It’s (glucosides) one of the best chemistries for the future. Let's now see the extent of pollution being caused in the textile industry. It is estimated that about 6 million tons of textile chemicals are used around the world. Around 20% of the pollution in the waste water segment is coming from the textiles and 5% of the total landfill is also coming from the textiles. The challenges: now you have zero discharge and you finally land up with the salt. And ash, if you have incineration. At the end of the day, there’s no solution to the ash, there’s no solution to the salt. You can put it in construction and a lot of other things. But there are a lot of things actually happening in our textile mills, where the people will find it more economical to do it that way. These are two big challenges which I see. I find Tirupur to be the best place where we see a lot of change has NCM-MARCH 2019 73

happened. They have learned the whole process by putting a lot of investment. But in the process, what happened, you know, when you go to a textile mill, a knitwear plant. the break even point for them is 16 tons a day of production without zero discharge. And none of them was actually at that level. And they are more or less collapsing. Bangladesh has an average size of 40 tons or 45 tons but Pakistan has got more. And there are bigger companies having up to 500 tons or more like Gildan, which is there in Honduras. These are huge companies. So, India then slowly, slowly expanded and came to a size of 25-30 tons, which is still a break even point higher than that 16 tons/ day level for without zero discharge unit. But when zero discharge is to be followed the break even is about 22 tons/day to make money otherwise they’re just servicing. The next point is that in India, the textile industry was never involved in garment making. It was all left for the tailors to do the business and gov-

NEWS BRIEFS ernment did not allow the large garment producers to come forward. Now there’s a lot of investment happening in Jharkhand and also in the Telangana area, where they’re trying to set up units by offering rebate system for the garment factories to match the labor costs of Bangladesh. But we don't know how long this rebate will continue. But there are big companies like Orient Craft, Arvind and Shahis wo are participating. We must also note that textile was never fully integrated in the value chain. If you remember of the pastmay be even before I started studying - we used to have 18 to 20% yarn production as our contribution to the world. We also had a good contribution in the weaving sector but processing was not bad at that time. We had hundred mills in Mumbai, another hundred mills in Ahmedabad. We were contributing at least 18 to 20% share (of processing) to the total fabric production in the country. But now it’s hardly four to five percent. The main reasons for this decline are: there’s hardly any innovation taken place, the plant size remain so low, wastewater problems exist everywhere, etc. Processors are under pessure everywhere. The whole ground water has gone ba in Ludhiana, Jodhpur, Surat and other places. There’s no CETP connection. They have to relocate. These are the biggest problems that the textile industry needs to solve. Otherwise, the industry will not survive for too long. The way things are moving in our industry, bigger ones (units) will grow and become more big and when this happens (big ones becoming bigger) then enter the bigger retailers who come into play and squeeze the price they have to pay. Walmart will not allow you to get a penny more than what they want to pay. They will feed you in order to make you big. But then when you are becoming big, they will try to start squeezing you and you can’t come out of the business.

These are the problems which one has to be looking at. The whole value chain has to be looked at from fiber to the consumer and then to the disposal part. In this whole chain, everyone has to contribute whether one is involved in fabric or in fiber production. Now, more or less, the synthetic fibres are going up globally. 55-60% is mostly synthetic and in future it’s going to be more. China is much more in terms of percentage than what India has. We have at least 50 or 55% of cotton still remaining in India. But this will slowly change. Let's look at the quality issues now. I was talking to Decathlon, one of the good polyester sourcing brands, only to be told that we have no good technology available even to process a good polyester fabric. People are still going to Korea and to Taiwan to get the right polyester. We have Surat for example, a big polyester hub but then buyers don't get quality. We are only for the local market. In case of polyester, there is a big demand for high quality fabrics. There’s a lot of need to make this possible in India. This situation needs to change and a lot of investment has to happen to bring the right kind of processing techniques in the country. For example, consider the whole process of weight reduction. There’s not a single unit which has got it a right way. Research and technology for polyester to get the right feel is lacking. There are challenges at every stage which we need to address if we want to survive being in India.

Other issues are related to the interest rate, the freight movement, the services available at ports we have, and others. You’ll be shocked to know that our GNPT port is at the 27th position in the world ranking of ports. 27th in the world! And we are talking about the economy! There are 5 ports in China that rank among the top 10. Shanghai is number one and the second is Singapore. Singapore is more of oil based. But then there are many in China. And they have achieved that very well. The transit time and the turnaround time are the critical parameters for any port. We were having around three weeks of turnaround time which is now squeezed to about a week. But in Shanghai, you have one day of turnaround time. And this is really very challenging now. Now let's talk about the innovations taking place around us in terms of game changing technologies. A number of topics have been addressed in the textile industry on the fabric part. Some innovations are driven by the feel of the fabric. We’re changing the feel of a substrate that is first thing. Second thing is making it possible to impart some functional comfort properties to the fabric. Either it’s more absorbent, or more comfortable to wear or it keeps the fabric cooler. The next thing is about the looks which may be combined with style and/or fashion.

However, we are much better than Bangladesh in terms of following the ethical ways to condust our businesses. We have better plants and are in a much better position overall.

Now the technological aspects come into play like nanotechnology, energy saving processes, ecology and so on. But in textiles, innovations are still vastly driven by the functionalities requirements for products like towel, home textile, technical textile, etc. It's all about functionality. In case of apparel also, the focus is enhancing the functionality.

We need to seriously address all the issues related with pollution in order to effectively control it. This can get us more business.

There is a question now that how to change consumers' habits to make them aware about the importance of saving the water usage in the house-

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NEWS BRIEFS hold washing machines. There’s a company in the US, they’ve launched a product called 'Ably'. You can google it on the kickstart.com, you’ll find it. They’ve come out with a T shirt which we don’t have to wash. It stays fresh, doesn’t absorb anything. That’s the way they’re promoting. And they call it Filium™ technology that makes natural fabrics repel liquids, stains, and odors. You can have a look at that. And this is good as a change. If this catches up, you can wear it maybe for about six months. You can go in the office or for the sports with the same t-shirt without washing because it doesn’t absorb anything. So, no sweat, no smell. If the sweat is absorbed, then only the smell comes. Now, let's see what is happening in terms of sustainability. What are the challenges and what innovations have come up recently. The first area is to know how the cotton or the fiber is being produced. Second is how the chemicals have been produced. Third is what are the harmful effects and the fourth how the consumer is affected. All these four areas are critical for us. The cotton production, as you know, involves an extensive use of harmful pesticides and also consumption of huge amounts of water. These things have to be dealt with. It is widely publicised that the health of the workers, who are handling pesticides, is adversely affected and they suffer from skin irritation and various diseases. The video "True Cost" shows exactly what is happening in say, Punjab when a farmer goes and sprays pesticides on the crop. And then what kind of disease he comes back with. Chemicals are also important. Every chemical which we make is important and requires thorough monitoring. At Archroma, we feed every production detail into the SAP so every chemical analysis is available on the database and the MSDS - Model Safety

Ably™ | Unbelievably odor & stain repellant natural apparel. Exclusively made with world's most advanced natural fabric technology Filium®.

Data Sheet. It’s online reflected and is available for everyone to examine. So that means if a customer wants the safety data sheets, it will be online and available at all the time. Now the way we buy the chemicals and the way we test the chemicals is also critical on account of the banned substances. Inditex and Zara are moving very strongly ahead with a lot of restrictions and most of the brands also have their own restrictions. Unfortunate part for the textile sector is that there are too many certifications. We have Eco test, we have Blue Sign and dozens of other certifications and REACH comes in on the top. All these certifications are increasing the cost of operation unnecessarily. So we need to get out of this complex web of certifications. When you look at the pharma industry with so much of complexity, they NCM-MARCH 2019 75

just have IPs and Pharmacopoeias (Drugs manufactured in India have to be labelled with the mandatory nonproprietary drug name with the suffix I.P. This is similar to the B.P. suffix for British Pharmacopoeia and the U.S.P. suffix for the United States Pharmacopeia). They can really run the business smoothly as there are very clear FDA regulations there. But where is the regulation in textiles? And that’s where all these certification agencies have to come forward and make one regulation across the board. Some people have to ban it also. So much of money for each product is to be paid. You’re paying thousands of dollars for certifications. How can we compete in this situation? This is another challenge which we need to overcome.

Another important area to explore relates to how we make the products and how we can have control over it.

NEWS BRIEFS And how can we actually then modify it because it’s always controlled. Once we know what are the ingredients inside, we keep on modifying it. Take for example the case of cotton processing. When cotton fabric undergoes processing, we get a weight loss of 6% to 7%. Where does the fiber go? In the waste water. How do we control it? No ways. You modify the process and go for enzyme technology which could be a cheaper one, less of harsh treatment, less of damages coming from caustic soda on the fabric and then lesser sludge generation. This is one thing which we all have to work on.

We use huge amounts of caustic soda in the textile processing in processes like scouring and mercerization etc. But when caustic soda has impurities like metal inside, we get pinholes and it also leads to higher degree of polymerization loss. The outdated caustic manufacturing process has really had a big effect on the textile processing. For example, the mercury cell based manufacturing plants in the past produced caustic soda which was contaminated with lot of mercury which was bad for peroxide and the environment. Even rayon grade caustic soda being offered today by some suppliers has a lot of zinc inside which leads to adverse results. As regards the certification, we need to find the way how can we harmonize the certifications. So many certifications exist and every certification keeps on adding more. And there seems to be no end. Not only this, the brands have their own certifications. So it becomes even complex for one processor who says I’m supplying to Zara, I’m supplying to Marks & Spencer, I’m supplying to H&M and I’m supplying to Walmart, but everyone has a different standard which makes the job of the processor burdensome and expensive. So, it becomes too complex for people to fully understand and comply. And that’s

why we get a lot of inquiries to help them to improve their processes. We, at Archroma, have introduced several innovations. I don’t want to talk about individual products here but only outline a few innovations to give you an idea about what we have done.

We have our own Zero Discharge Plant in Pakistan and we are doing very well. Archroma's production site at Jamshoro, near Hyderabad, Pakistan, is operational since 1970, where dyestuffs for the local and international textile industry are produced. This plant plant combines flocculation, equalization, surface aeration, clarification, ultra-filtration and reverse osmosis. The resultant recovered water is returned for use in the production facility and so significantly reduces our demand from local water supplies. Every day, between 1,200 and 1,300 cubic meters of effluent is generated which passes through sustainable effluent treatment. Eighty percent of the water is recovered, the remaining water is lost through evaporation and results in 3 to 4 tons of dried sludge which is then incinerated. Incinerating the sludge creates steam, which is used in the production facility. The Sustainable Effluent Treatment facility operates with zero discharge, reduced steam energy and reclaimed water. We have launched EarthColors – A range of textile dyes made of agricultural waste and fully traceable from the source to the shop - which are made from the almond shells, saw palmetto, rosemary leaves, and other natural non-edible agricultural waste products that would otherwise be sent to landfill. For this new range of “biosynthetic” dyes, we procure various ingrdients and make a nice range of colors, which is getting very popular among many of the brands like Levi’s, and Patagonia. They’re really taking the storyline ahead quite well. EarthColors are designed to provide rich red, brown and green colors to denim & casualwear. NCM-MARCH 2019 76

EarthColors® is Archroma’s patented new method of synthesizing dyes to produce warm shades from nature. Archroma’s EarthColors® technology creates fully traceable biosynthetic dyes derived from natural waste products of the agriculture and herbal industries; leaving the edible part still available for food consumption. EarthColors® dyestuffs are bluesign® and GOTS approved products. Archroma’s effor ts to improve sustainability in the textiles industry reflect in its work in dyeing systems for denim under the brand “Advanced Denim”. Patagonia, one of the most forward thinking of the major clothes brands, was the first in 2015 to announce a new dyeing and manufacturing process developed using Archroma’s Advanced Denim technology. Advanced Denim uses dyestuffs that bond more easily to cotton, minimizing the resource usage of traditional dyeing of denim. As a result, Patagonia is using 84% less water, 30% less energy and emitting 25% less CO2 than conventional synthetic indigo denim dyeing processes.

Using the Advanced Denim concept with the sulfur dyes, we can save 90% water. It’s a slightly expensive than the Indigo process. But we have colors in sulfur which can replicate the Indigo with the right wash down effect. We have been able to successfully demonstrated the efficacy of the Advanced Denim technology. We have another innovation called Inkpresso® – A breakthrough system allowing textile digital printers to produce their inks on site - for digital printing. We have launched a new Digital Printing system where instead of transporting the liquid inks to the cus-

NEWS BRIEFS tomer premises, what we are doing is putting the purified powder dyes. And then we have the process and a machine to make the ink live and next to the digital machine. Fortunately, I was one of the patent holders for developing this in my global role. So this is really becoming a game changer in the digital space. And now the future would be that on the inkjet machines that you have online, put in a dyestuff on-site and you get the ink manufactured. But still the problem is still the pigment printing through the digital means. The binder systems still have to be improved. So there are a lot of companies working on that. This is a big project worldwide. Every ink manufacturer is trying to get the right binder system which doesn’t choke because one print head is costing 6000 euro and there are 128 print heads. You can imagine if out of 128 printheads, 28 go then its a lot of cost. And people are looking at getting the liability declarations on the print head. We have launched the Color Atlas, which is like the Pantone. Pantone had X gamut of shades. But we have now expanded that to a bigger gamut called Color Atlas where you can really put in a pdesign online and get the color separations. Color Atlas is an empowering color tool, one that would help you find the exact color you need for your specific application. The idea is to offer you options you’ve never even dreamed of, and the ultimate goal is to deliver your final choice with unparalleled accuracy, no matter the application. We cover a lot of gamut of shades. You can use your mobile device to take photos or use existing images to search the library to find matching colors via Color Atlas Online. The app Color Atlas Online offers dedicated color pages with dyeing recipes, technical support, and visual representation of similar colors. A lot of brands have started using this. We have the One Way- a sort of calculator which even blue sign has

Archroma's Inkpresso®: Bringing ink manufacture back to the printer More than 20 billion linear meters of printed textiles are produced every year. Currently, only around two percent of these are made using digital printing techniques. Introduced in November 2015, Inkpresso® is a pioneering system that Archroma believes will mark a turnaround in the textile digital printing market. Developed together with Ink-Situ, a Swiss technology provider, Inkpresso® will change the way inks are supplied to digital printers. The system brings together benefits that were unattainable so far in inkjet printing: Production flexibility, no shelf-life problems, a larger color spectrum and the possibility of an individual coloristic fingerprint. A major component of ready-mixed inks is water. This, however, leads to higher transport costs, increasing environmental impact and reduced shelf life. The Inkpresso system enables mixing of the required ink on site and on demand. The central component of the system is the Inkpresso Ink Formulation Unit (IFU), where eight color modules are available. The colors can be mixed to meet manufacturers’ specific needs – at any time. Depending on the size and complexity of the printing company, inks can be sent directly from the Inkpresso IFU to the printer through a piping system, or several printers can be supplied simultaneously using a special distribution unit. In addition, colors can be stored for several weeks in a storage unit. Inkpresso is driving the digital printing revolution by bringing ink manufacture back to the printers themselves. started using. It can calculate water, electricity and all the utility consumption plus the carbon footprint. The other major thing it can calculate is a BOD, COD ratios by which the elimination factor can be calculated. These things are really helping us to take our business online so that you can have a look at some of the commodities being offered online. We have also got Smartrepel® Hydro – Non-fluorine water repellent protection. SmartRepel® Hydro supports the increasing adoption of eco-advanced materials and production processes by textile producers and brand owners. It is a based on new generation of non-fluorine chemistry that meets criteria for PFC-free finishes and clothing: compliant with ZDHC MRSL and Oeko-Tex® standard; bluesign® approved. This new range is Archroma’s nature-friendlier protection that keeps cotton, polyester and polyamide textiles dry. The unique technology offers exceptional, durable water repellency and is not based on fluorine. SmartRepel® Hydro proNCM-MARCH 2019 77

duces a soft hand feel and outstanding breathability – the perfect long-lasting, high-performance finish for weatherproof garments. Another big innovation from Archroma is oxidized sulfur dyes with a wide range of shades that we can just pad dry or pad fix. There is no water consumption. We are working on this innovation to further improve it because this is going to be a game changer technology better than the pigment printing. In case of pigments, we still have to carry out some processes where we have to make the fabrics soft. We have to come out with softer binders and other things. Archroma's innovations include an aniline-free (below limits of detection) denim indigo dye. It provides a nontoxic way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue for denim and jeans. Currently, aniline impurities are an unavoidable element of producing indigo-dyed denim. Unlike other chemical impurities, aniline is locked into the indigo pigment during the dyeing

NEWS BRIEFS process and therefore cannot be washed off the fabric. These impurities are toxic to humans as well as to aquatic life. The Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 dye is one of the finest sustainable innovations for denim in addition to ‘Advanced Denim’ technology which uses up to 90% less water during the dyeing process. Being not indigo but sulfur based, ‘Advanced Denim’ is also an aniline free solution.

pur there is a lot of consumption of BPO still around which really needs an attention from the mill owners to stop using the BPO based detergents. Ethoxylate detergents are the best for efficiency but they are not good for the ecology. The processing houses still use lot of chlorinated solvents which contain a lot of BOD and COD and this needs to be addressed. I’m trying to work out with the companies around to see how we can help them so that they come out of this. I wanted to communicate through my presentation on what are going to be the next stages of innovations where we can contribute either in the form of a speciality product or in the form of an innovative process technology including the recycling part.

Archroma’s Double Black is an innovative concept for a superior level of black. Double Black is a synergy of dyeing technologies that creates stunning, deep black shades under any lighting conditions, with great flexibility and excellent wash-fastness.

The global apparel trade expanded for the second consecutive year in CY 2018 with YoY growth of -3%, following a 2% growth in CY 2017 in US$ terms and contractions reported earlier in CY 2015 and CY 2016. However, given the decline in two out of the last five years, the trade value in CY 2018 stood only -2% higher than the level seen in CY 2013. The positive trend during the last two years has been led by the strong recovery in apparel imports by the EU, which accounts for two-fifth of the global apparel trade (including the trade within EU) and reported a growth of 5.8% and 3.9% in apparel imports in CY 2018 and CY 2017 respectively, following a muted growth of 1.9% in CY 2016. Unilke the EU, apparel imports by the US remain muted with a 2% growth in CY 2018, though the trend has improved during the past two years.

The main problem with black is that it fades every time you wash the black and then you don’t get that same look of the black. So we have now come out with some techniques and some fixatives which can improve that. Double Black brings together in one process a sulfur black dyestuff, Diresul® Black RDT-2KS liq, and a reactive black dyestuff, Drimaren® Black CL-S, resulting in a superior level of deep black shades and enhanced performance for cellulose fibers. Double Black represents a significant improvement in the field of black shades for cellulose. It combines the high performance of sulfur blacks (perspiration/ light fastness, etc.) with the features of reactive blacks (shade flexibility, repetitive washing fastness etc.). As a result, a superior level of depths, tone flexibility and fastness is achieved. And all that is achieved without an increase in processing time because scouring and Diresul® black dyeing is carried out at the same time. Another problem that we want to overcome is to discourage and eliminate the use in Ethoxylates detergents/ BPOs. Some of the markets in India like Surat, Amritsar, Bhilwara, Jodh-

Global Apparel Trade: A Review

China - the world's largest apparel manufacturer and exporter, has been challenged by rising production costs in recent years. As a result, its apparel exports are now considerably lower than the peak level witnessed in CY 2014. Although China managed to arrest the pace of decline in its apparel exports in CY 2018, expanding global apparel trade resulted in a continued decline in its market share. Bangladesh and Vietnam remain the key gainers of the market released by China. Bangladesh's growth continues to be supported by the availability of low cost labour and competitive advantage in the form of lower import duties provided by some of the world's largest apparel importing countries. Bangladesh has been the key beneficiary of China's declining share in the EU. Vietnam, the third largest apparel exporter, on the other hand, has maintained growth in its stronghold market of the US. While Bangladesh hasn't been able to grow in Vietnam's key target market i.e. the US in the last few years, Vietnam continues to grow at a healthy pace in Bangladesh's key target market of EU also. In this context, signing of the proposed EU-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement (EVFTA) and full enforcement of the Comprehensive and Progressive Trans Pacific Partnership (CP TPP) would further strengthen Vietnam's positioningin the global apparel trade. India's apparel exports: After a double-digit de-growth for four consecutive quarters, India's apparel exports stabilised during Q3 FY2019,reportinga 14% YoY growth to US$ 3.6 billion. The growth is,however,mainly explained by a low base effect considering that India had reported a -19% YoY decline in apparel exports during Q3 FY2018 following a downward revision in export incentives after the transition to the GST regime. Thus, even after a recovery, India's apparel exports in Q3 FY 2019 remained lower than the averagequarterly exports during the past five years. Further, FY 2019 is expected to be the fourth consecutive weak year for India's apparel exports with a -4-5% de-growth (vis-a-vis 6.5% deNCM-MARCH 2019 78

NEWS BRIEFS growth in 10 M FY2019), following the 4% de-growth in FY 2018 and modest growth rates of 1% and 3% in FY 2016 and FY 2017 respectively.

ers are predominantly present, translated into a healthy growth for ICRA's sample during the current financial year.

Besides intense compettiive pressures from nations having a cost advantage over India and an inexplicable dedine in exports to the UAE, concerns arising from the US's allegations against certain export subsidy schemes in India, seem to be constraining the overallmomentum of the apparel export sector of India. Going forward,steps taken by the Government to address these concerns, besides impending developments in the international trade including the CP TPP and the EU-Vietnam FTA, remain crucial for the sector participants.

Besides, favourable currency movement and healthy growth in revenues facilitated an improvement in margins in the recent quarters, given the operating leverage inherent in the operations. Thus, despite higher raw material prices,the operating margins averaged -14% in the past six quarters, compared to aggregate operating margins of 9-12% during the fivequarter period ending June 2017. Supported by better margins, the aggregate interest cover for ICRA' s sample also improved, averaging 5.7 times in 9 M FY 2019 vis-a-vis s.o times in 9 M FY 2018.

Moreover, the movement in Indian currency vis-a-vis currencies of competing nations too will determine the relative competitiveness of the Indian players. This is particularly critical considering the cost advantages in terms of lower labor and financing cost that some of these nations enjoy. Nevertheless, ICRA notes that the Government's accommodative stance of reversing the reduction in export incentives has provided some interim relief to the apparel exporters. Financial performance of Indian apparel manufacturers:

Outlook: ICRA's sample comprising 13 large, listed, garment-manufacturing companies grew by 13% (YoY) in Q3 FY 2019, following the similar average growth rate during the previous four quarters. ICRA believes that presence in the niche and value-added product segments, together with access to an established client base has helped export-based companies to maintain revenu e growth, despite the increasing competitive pressures from peer nations. This, together with a revival in domestic demand, post transitory pressures of demonetisation and GST, particularly in metros and tier -1 markets where the larger listed play-

share of organised retail present significant growth opportunities for the domestic garmenting and retailing industry in the long term. However,the extent of growth for the domestic companies will be partly determined by their competitiveness vis-a-vis the international suppliers and the level of imports in the country. Although on a low base,apparel imports have risen by more than 50% in the current year,highlighting a potential threat to the domestic industry. However, large garment manufactures would continue to benefit from the economies of scale in a fragmented industry, which would also enable them to cater to the organised apparel sector, resulting in better realisations. Also, strong apparel brands would be in a better position to achieve growth in a fragmented industry and command premium pricing. While India has a large fibre base, the share of Indian garment exports has remained low a 3-4% in the global apparel trade. Going forward,s teps taken by the Government of India to address the concerns on the continuance of export subsidy schemes, will remain crucial f or the Indian apparel e xporters to capitalise on revived global apparel trade and loss of market NCM-MARCH 2019 79

share by China. Besides, the full implementation of the CP TPP as well as developments on the EVFTA will remain key determinants of the opportunities likely to be available to the Indian apparel exporters in the global market.Also,competitiveness of the Indian apparelexporters will remain contingent upon the movement in foreign exchange rates. Nonetheless, benefits under the Central schemes as well as several state textile policies, relaxed labour norms, and sharing of the Employee Provident Fund (EPF) burden as introduced under the textile policy,augur well for the competitiveness of the Indian apparel exporters. Highlights: Fabric Sector Trend In fabric production: Fabric production in India increased by -4% YoY to 51.9 billion sq.mtrs in 9 M FY 2019. Even though thegrowth appears moderated visÂˇa-vis 5% growth reported in FY2018, this is better than the average -2% growth reported during the past decade. There is a possibility that the growth during FY 2018 and 9 M FY 2019 has been partly driven by improved reporting by the unorganised segment post GST implementation. Besides, the growth has also been supported by revival in domestic demand in the downstream segments. The growth in some of the recent years had been constrained by multiple headwinds. Besides demandside pressures arising from subdued exports of apparels and fabrics, the sector experienced challenges owing to demonetisation as well as transition to the GST regime. The headwinds faced by the weaving segment were particularly strong, as the segment is highly fragmented and consists primarily of the unorganised segment.ICRA notes that the structuralchallenges for the Indian fabric industry remain, including very high fragmentation and lack of modernisation. Thus, the sustainability of the recent trend remains to be seen. Contd. On Page

NEWS BRIEFS TAI's International Textile Conference on “TEXTILE 4.0 – Second Edition” was a huge success Overwhelming Reponse for TAI, Mumbai Unit Conference held on February 7, 2019 at Hotel The Lalit, Mumbai TEXTILE 4.0 The Second Edition International Conference gets an overwhelming response from Indian Textile & Garment industry, same as the First Edition. The Textile Association (India), Mumbai Unit has the distinction of organising the international conferences on the emerging areas of Textile Trade and industry. During March 2018, TAI Mumbai Unit organised an international conference on “Textile 4.0; a first of its kind in Asia and perhaps the second in the world to bring home the concept and its relevance to global competitiveness. During Industry 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0, the technological developments were seen by leaps and bounds. The Industrial Revolution 4.0 in fact began in 2007.The new industrial revolution 4.0 is characterised by a confluence of emerging technology breakthroughs, including mobile connectivity, artificial intelligence, Internet of things, next-generation robotics, 3D printing, wearable and genetic engineering, nanotechnology, advanced materials, biotechnology and others. These technologies, combined and connected, will transform manufacturing and production systems with unprecedented speed and scope, impacting business models, economic growth, employment and sustainability. Hence, Industry 4.0 stands for intelligent production and new business models. The aim is on increasing productivity, flexibility and efficiency. Industry 4.0 or I 4.0 is already being implemented in India, through joint ventures & collaborations.

Chief Guest, Mr. Sanjay K. Jain, Chairman, CITI lighting the lamp. Standing (L to R): Mr. Rahul N. Mehta, Managing Director, Creative Casualwear Pvt. Ltd., Dr. M. R. Ravi, IAS, Commissioner for Textile Development & Director of Handlooms & Textiles Department, Government of Karnataka, Mr. Sanjay K. Jain, Chairman, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), Mr. Amir Sheikh, Senior Consultant, Gherzi Consulting Engineers Pvt. Ltd., Mr. Vilas Gharat, President, TAI, Mumbai Unit, Mr. G. V. Aras, Conference Chairman, Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI, Mumbai Unit.

Inaugural Address by Chief Guest Mr. Sanjay K. Jain, Chairman, CITI. After the successful event of March 2018, there have been queries from different parts of India to organise the Second Edition on the Textile 4.0. Since concepts were discussed in the earlier event, it was thought appropriate to take the Second Edition on the same theme with view to address implementation of it in different segNCM-MARCH 2019 80

ment of textile and apparel value chain. This was the background for this Conference Textile 4.0 - Second Edition. It was organised on 7th February 2019 at Hotel, The Lalit, Andheri (E), Mumbai. Inauguration function included Mr. Sanjay Jain, Chairman, CITI as Chief

NEWS BRIEFS Guest, Dr. M. R. Ravi, IAS, Commissioner for Textiles, Government of Karnataka as Guest of Honour and Mr. Amir Sheikh, Senior Consultant, Gherzi Consulting Engineers P. Ltd as Key Note Speaker. It was graced by Mr. T. K. Sengupta, National President, TAI, Mr. Vilas Gharat, President, TAI Mumbai Unit, Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman, TAI Mumbai Unit, Mr. G. V. Aras, Conference Chairman, Mr. T. K. Chandra, Conference Adviser and Mr. A. V. Mantri, Hon. Secretary, TAI Mumbai Unit. Mr. Vilas Gharat, President, TAI Mumbai Unit, welcomed the Chief Guest Mr. Sanjay Jain, President, CITI, Guest of Honour Dr. M. R. Ravi, IAS, the Commissioner for Textiles, Government of Karnataka and the Key-Note Speaker, Mr. Amir Sheikh, Senior Consultant, Gherzi Consulting Engineers P.Ltd, Speakers, sponsors and the delegates.

Guest of Honour Dr. M. R. Ravi, IAS, Commissioner for Textile Development & Director of Handlooms & Textiles Department, Government of Karnataka addressing the gathering.

Mr. V. C. Gupte, Chairman TAI and the Conference Convener briefed the retrospects of the conference held in March 2018 as preamble to the current edition of conference on the topic. He reiterated that the earlier version of our conference was to introduce the subject Textile: 4.0 and its relevance to the enhancement of competitiveness from the global perspectives. It also brought home to address some of the key challenges in terms of gaps, technology upgradation; use of IT enabled tools and robotics. His retrospects set the tone of the Conference. Mr. G. V. Aras, Chairman of the Conference briefed the coverage of the deliberations programmed in the current version. He emphasized that the topics are so chosen that the entire supply chain starting from spinning, weaving, knitting garmenting and processing would be deliberated upon in the context of Textile 4.0. He also reiterated that the expert speakers have been requested to collate with the Indian Textile industry with similar case studies of other developed/developing countries. Mr. Amir Sheikh, in his Key Note Ad-

Key Note Speaker Mr. Amir Sheikh, Senior Consultant, Gherzi Consulting Engineers Pvt. Ltd. addressing the gathering. dress briefed the context of global competitiveness interalia Textile 4.0. He emphasized that the automation, use of internet, robotics and artificial intelligence are key factors to prudently managing the manufacturing processes to achieve higher productivity and quality of the out puts. There is necessity of synergising the machines with artificial intelligence and as such the production machines should comply with the theology of Industry 4.0 or Textile 4.0. NCM-MARCH 2019 81

Dr. M. R. Ravi, Guest of Honour for the event highlighted the importance technological advancement and its interface with the industry and policy makers to achieve the envisaged goals of achieving international norms of productivity and quality. TAI Mumbai Unit has set has set a precedent of felicitating every year, the textile professionals for their outstanding contribution and who have achieved land mark in their journey in

NEWS BRIEFS Textile Industry. Mr. Suresh Kotak, Chairman, Kotak & Co. Ltd was bestowed with the Lifetime Achievement Award. Mr. Kotak contributed to Indian cotton Textile Industry over five decades in various capacities and contributed in the area of formulation of policies significantly. Mr. Rahul N. Mehta, Managing Director, Creative Casualwear Pvt. Ltd. was honoured with the Industrial Excellence Award. Mr. Mehta has long distinguished career & contribution in the garment industry. His outstanding performance in terms of creativity and professional management in the garment manufacturing is recognised all over the country, he is also a trainer and motivator. The awards were given by the Chief Guest and the Guest of Honour. The entire gathering greeted the awardees with standing ovation and applauds.

Mr. Suresh A. Kotak, Chairman, Kotak & Co. Ltd. receiving The Lifetime Achievement Award by the hands of Chief Guest Mr. Sanjay K. Jain

Mr. Sanjay Jain, Chief Guest of the function spoke the relevance of the theme of the conference and opined that TAI Mumbai Unit and CITI could jointly organise similar events in different Textile Clusters to promote the Textile 4.0 across the nation. Mr. Mantri proposed vote of thanks to all the dignitaries and participants for having attended the conference. Further, he also thanked the sponsors, supporters and all those who have contributed significantly for the success of the event. The first Technical Session-I covered the theme - ‘Textile 4.0- Implementation’. During this session, four papers were presented. Mr. Stefan Winter, Product Manager, Karl Meyer Digital Factory, GmbH presented on” KM.ON - Karle Meyer Digital Solutions”. He said the IT enabled system developed by Karl Meyer is made up of eight KM.ON solution categories together. The first apps and solutions cover the three areas of management, maintenance and Service. The three areas are K. Management which enables customer to look at the current production process, regardless of location and in real time. The production

Release of Book of Papers data is displayed on the dashboard. This helps in terms of process transparency by delivering the information and also supports decision making and planning with the valid database. Likewise, K. Maintenance supports customers in their own maintenance operation. The third category included K. Service is global and helps its customer to link with Karl Meyer. The remaining categories are being developed to support the digital factory of Karl Meyer. Mr. Jurgan Hanel, Head of Technology NCM-MARCH 2019 82

Technical Textiles, A. Monfor ts Textilmaschonen GmbH & Co.KG presented a paper on “Textile Coating Under the influence of Internet of Things”. He initiated his talk with introduction to different types of coating machines viz; knife coating, Foam Coating and Roller Coating. Four modules of versatile coating machines including multifunctional, knife coating, rotary screen printing and magnetic roller coating were listed to address the Textile 4.0. Modular Coating “Montex Allround” having the features of Internet of things, Industry 4.0

NEWS BRIEFS Compliant, Fully automatic features along with artificial intelligence was presented. Further, an important finishing machine having automated control system that can facilitate compliance to Textile 4.0 was discussed in the context of Montex Allround coating machine features. Mr. Samath Fernando, CIO, Hirdaramani Group & CEO, HONE Pvt Ltd, Sri Lanka presented a paper titled “RPA (Robotics Process Automation) and its impact to Apparel/Textile manufacturing Processes”. He discussed on use of robotics and modulation of the manufacturing processes and control of the process parameters in different stages of apparel manufacture. He stressed on control of process parameters to achieve higher productivity and quality in the apparel manufacture.

Mr. Rahul N. Mehta, Managing Director, Creative Casualwear Pvt. Ltd., receiving The Industrial Excellence Award by the hands of Chief Guest Mr. Sanjay K. Jain

Mr. Vikas Sharan, Director-India Operations, Saurer Textile Solutions Pvt Ltd., spoke on “Sustainability in Spinning through Innovation, Artificial Intelligence and Internet of Things (IoT)”. He described the spinning system being supplied by Saurer with solutions for staple fibre processing from bale to yarn on sustainable management mechanism. He emphasized that the spinning systems address energy conservation, economics and ergonomics. Specifically, he illustrated the Carding machine - JSC 326, Zinser Speed Frame- 5A, Ring Spinning Frame -Zinser Impact -72 XL, Auto coner-ACX6 and Rotor Spinning system-Autocoro 9 having features to be Textile 4.0 compliant. The theology of his presentation was to reiterate developments of Saurer group to meet the challenges of Textile 4.0. The Second Technical Session-II was devoted to the Implementation of Textile 4.0 in Garment Manufacturing. Mr. Vikas Banduke, Vice President, Textile Engineering – Automation, A.T.E. Enterprises presented a paper on “How to make existing machines Compliant to Textile 4.0”. The paper attracted the attention of the gathering especially due to appropriate soNCM-MARCH 2019 83

NEWS BRIEFS lution to approach compliance to Textile 4.0. Microprocessors and Software systems which are ‘make specific’ call for replacement with the supply from the original manufacturer/supplier. M/ s A.T.E. have done inhouse R&D to replace with user friendly software incorporated to make the machines meet the requirement of the Textile 4.0. Mr. Vikas Banduke presented different case studies wherein the approach has yielded positive results proving the point that installation of new machines with high capital is not the only solution for compliance to Textile 4.0. Mr. Felix AK Pinto, Sales Director, South Asia, South East Asia and ANZ, X-Rite Incorporated presented a paper on “Next level of Virtualisation for Textile Industry, Total Appearance Capture from X-Rite”. He initiated his talk on the journey of X-Rite in assessment of appearance and colour on a substrate with special reference to textile fabrics. With advent of microprocessors and IT enabled software, the journey has been so fascinating that it is “simply seeing is believing”. As quality assurance and decision support system in colour management, he collated how these are compliant to Textile 4.0. Mr. Ronnie Hagin, CEO, Datatex Group presented a paper titled “Industry 4.0- Textile Reality from buzz to opportunity”. He started his deliberation with the background of Datatex as a software development and facilitation organisation since 1987. Industry 4.0 encompasses the robotics, Artificial Intelligence, Internet of things and interface with various types of manufacturing machines. Mechanization of the operations was the first step, while automation with IT enabled systems according to him has become a reality under the Industry Revolution Textile 4.0. Some of the case studies from different parts of globe wherin his company has been part was illustrated to bring home that Industry 4.0 or Textile 4.0 is a reality not simply a buzz word. In the last Technical Session which

The Distinguished Audience

covered the Risk Management two papers were presented. First paper was pertaining to price fluctuation of cotton and its management and another paper was on fluctuation in dollar price and its management. Mr. Badruddin Khan, Sr. Manager-Product Management Team, Multi Commodity Exchange of India (MCX) presented a paper on “Cotton Price Risk Management”. He discussed the concept of ‘commodity exchange’ in the context of different types of commodity markets including spot markets, forward markets and future Trading. He emphasized on future trading as means to manage risk of price variation within a specific time period. Transparency, security to the seller to contain with the price fluctuations, warehouse facilities, Hedging etc were illustrated with various examples based on the trading done under MCX. It was brought out that in addition to transparent system of Textile 4.0 using IT enabled Systems, MCX can be a better facilitator for trading of the commodity and manage risk especially the cotton which is a major raw material base for the textile manufacturing. Mr. Sajal Gupta, Head- Forex & Rates, Edelweiss Securities Limited made a presentation on ‘Managing Forex Risk in Extreme Volatility’. He initiated his presentation with the impact of dollar NCM-MARCH 2019 84

fluctuation on the overall business operations either in export or import of goods. He introduced the concept of benchmarking through strategic price for the foreign currency. In order to contain with the currency fluctuation, he presented, Edelweiss Hedge Optimiser Model to the audience. Available hedging tools for managing the forex risk especially during extreme volatility were presented. Business ethics through transparent management of forex risk, according to him is the acceptable solution even under extremely volatile market force conditions. Concluding Remarks The conference was well received with attendance of over 350 participants. The cross section of participation was Pan-India. The participants opined that the theme of the international conference was quite opt and time tested for moving forward to address challenges under Textile 4.0. In this pursuit, the conference organised by TAI Mumbai Unit presented the perspectives of industry 4.0 including the international opinion, Technology, Raw material base with stringent quality requirements for automated manufacturing technology and machine design and assembly with Software enabled operations to achieve the high quality, productivity and the future consumer demand.

NEWS BRIEFS Grasim Acquires Soktas India

LABORATORY First ISO 9001: 2008 Lab in Ahmedabad

Grasim Industries Limited (“Grasim”) has signed a definitive agreement to acquire 100 per cent equity shareholding of Soktas India Private Limited (“SIPL”), from its current promoters, for an enterprise value of Rs.165 crore, subject to net debt and working capital adjustments, as of the closing date. The transaction will be funded by the company primarily out of internal accruals. SIPL will become a wholly owned subsidiary of Grasim upon completion of the transaction.

For Your Yarn, Fabric, Garment, Dyes, Chemicals & Auxilliaries Testing needs.

SIPL is currently a wholly owned subsidiary of SÖKTAS Tekstil Sanayi ve Ticaret A.S., world renowned producer and marketer of fabrics, with its main facilities in Soke, Turkey. Soktas India a state of the art production facility exclusively producing shirting fabrics - was opened in 2008 to bring the best of European fashion to the Indian market. Their production centre is located in Kolhapur, augmented by a design showroom in Bangalore.

A/309, Ghantakaran Market, B/s. New Cloth Market, Sarangpur, Ahmedabad-380002. Ph. : (O) 22142128 (M) 98247 39293 E-mail : jyotilab4010@rediffmail.com

SIPL is in the business of manufacturing and the distribution of premium cotton fabrics. Its plant capacity is about 10 million metres per annum of finished fabric. SIPL sells premium fabrics in India under the ‘SÖKTAS’, ‘Giza House’ and ‘Excellence by SÖKTAS’ brands. The company is also a preferred supplier to leading Indian and global menswear brands. In fiscal March 2018, SIPL reported revenue and EBITDA of Rs.186 crore and Rs.31 crore respectively. Says Thomas Varghese, Business Head – Textiles, Aditya Birla Group, “The acquisition is in line with Grasim’s linen business strategy to strengthen its presence in the premium fabric market. Increasing disposable income, fashion and quality orientation of Indian consumers has resulted in an increase in the demand for premium fabric over the years. This acquisition is a compelling strategic fit, and further strengthens our leadership in the premium cotton and linen fabric market in India.” Grasim has a significant presence in India’s premium linen fabric market, through its leading brand ‘Linen Club’.

Rakumi Syoji Co., Ltd. We are specialty in making fabrics and accesories for curtain. Exporting to: EU, USA, Russia. 9-12 Mibufughidacho Nakagyuku, Kyoto-shi 604-8855 Kyoto, Japan Telephone+81 75 3135168 Fax+81 75 3135268

Under the Blanket, Black is as good as White! NCM-MARCH 2019 85

NEWS BRIEFS Trends In fabric production: (Contd. from Page) Fabric exports and Imports: The Indian fabric industry continues to cater primarily to the domestic requirements with fabric exports (excluding the supplies to apparel exporters) accounting for only -6% of the domestic production as against a much higher proportion of exports in other segments of the textile value chain like cotton yarn and apparels. Large domestic requirements, limited growth in production levels and low share of high - quality fabric,given the fragmented nature of the industry and old vintage of the machinery, explain the continued low share of fabric exports from India. Nevertheless, despite the low share of fabric exports with respect to production, the share of the fabric segment in Indias' total textile exports continues to be higher at-12%. Similar to exports, India's fabric imports also account for only 2% of the domestic production. Nevertheless, the industry has been challenged by a spurt in fabric imports post the transition to the GST regime. The imports of cotton-based and man· madefibre based woven fabric stood higher by 27% and 34% respectively during FY 2018. While the government has thereafter taken a corrective measure, whereby import duty on key types of fabrics was doubled to 20% in August 2018, fabric imports continue to increase at a high rate. The pace of growth,however,moderated to -15% YoY between September and December 2018 vis-a-vis 49% YoY growth between April and August 2018. Financial performance: In contrast to the industry production trends, the aggregate performance of 12 large fabric manufacturers in ICRA's sample has remained weak during the past nine quarters. The pressures on performance started with the demoneti sation drive in Q3

ORDNANCE CLOTHING FACTORY (Ministry of Defence, Govt. of India) Avadi, Chennai-600 054 Phone 044-26365000 Fax & 044-26381701 REQUEST FOR EXPRESSION OF INTEREST Ordnance Clothing Factory Avadi is one of the largest Garment Industries, Under Ministry of Denfence, Govt. of India, setup in 1961, exclusively for manufacturing the entire range of uniforms to cater to the needs of Armed Forces of India. As far as infrastructure facilities are concer ned, OCFAV is equipped with most modern, State-of-the-art Machineries and NABL accredited Textile Testing Laboratory and deployed with more then 2000 employees. This facilities OCFAV to manufacture highest quality garments in large quantity in shorter period of time. To make use of these unique facilities we invite the attention of ‘‘Garment Buying Houses". As part of product Diversification Program, we have developed most advanced version of BR Vest and Splinter Resistant Jacket. These products too are open for civilian markets. The most highlighted point to be mentioned here is that our R&D department which was engaged in design and development of troop-comfortable uniforms of armed forces are now readily available for civilian customers to meet their Products Development requirements with highest degree of perfection. Expression of Interest is invited from interested parties along with supporting documents for registration. For further details you may contact on the following Telephone. Phone 044-26365000 Fax 044-26381701. E-mail- ocfav.ofb@nic.in (P. SENTHILKUMAR) JOINT GENERAL MANAGER

davp/10201/11/0057/1819 FY 2017 and intensified during the transition to the GST regime. Thereafter, while the overall fabric production in the country is reported to have grown at a healthy pace, the growth in aggregate revenues of ICRA's sample remained tepid. In fact, the aggregate revenues in Q3 FY 2019 remained close to the five-year average quarterly revenues, despite raw material prices being significantly higher. Hence,the implied sales volumes of ICRA's sample in 9 M FY 2019 are es timated to have remained lo wer than the five-year a verage. The weakness in sales coupled with high cotton yarn prices over the past four quarters has brought the profitability of fabric manufacturers under pressure. As a result,the aggregate operating margins of ICRA's sample NCM-MARCH 2019 86

declined to 8.0% in Q2 FY2019 and further to 7.6% in Q3 FY2019, compared to the level of 11-12% during the pre-demonetisation period. Even though doubts on the production metrics reported by the sector remain, possibility of an inventory build-up cann ot be ruled out given the sgi nificant gap between industry-wide production tra jectory and implied trend in sale volumes of ICRA's sample. This could have in turn increased the dependence upon debt, in turn explaining the movement in interest cover, which declined to 2 times in 9M FY2019 from 2.4 times in FY2018. Outlook: Not withstanding the multiple challenges faced by the Indian weaving

NEWS BRIEFS

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NEWS BRIEFS industry in the recent past,the growth in fabric demand and hence production over the long term is expected to remain steady. This is expected to be driven by growth in the end-user industries of apparels and home textiles,which in turn would stand to benefit from India's large population base, rising disposable incomes, increasing share of organised retail and also the export opportunities. Within the highly fragmented weavnig sector, the players in the organised segments are likely to outperform th e overall growth in the sector. For the unorganised segment, the small scale and obs oles cence of the machinery remain the primary con straining factors which have impacted the productivity of the sector and quality of the fabric manufactured. Modernisation and increase in the scale of operations would be critical to improve productivity, quality and cost competitiveness of the domestic fabric, which, besides improving the direct fabric export opportunities, would also improve the availability of quality fabric at competitive prices for the domestic consuming industries and help them increase their share in global exports. (Courtesy: ICRA)

Tamilnadu Announces New Integrated Textile Policy 2019 Tamilnadu has a strong presence in textiles and the second largest contributor to the Indian Textiles Industry and predominantly cotton based. The State marks its overwhelming presence in all the sub sectors of the industry viz., Spinning, Handloom weaving, Power loom weaving, Processing, Knitwear, Apparel and Garmenting. Some of the textile products from Tamilnadu which are universally recognised for the excellent craftsmanship and their uniqueness are Kancheepuram Silk Sarees, Bhavani Carpet (Jamukalam), Madurai Sungadi Sarees, Coimbatore Kora Sarees, Paramakudi Sarees, Sa-

lem Silk Dhoties, Erode and Karur Home Textiles, Tiruppur Knitwear Garments, etc. Tamilnadu acts as the hub of textile exports from the country viz., Tiruppur for Knitwear Garments, Coimbatore for Yarn, Karur for Home Textiles and Chennai for Woven Garment exports. The State accounts for 19% of the Nation's Textile output with a robust network of all the sub-sectors of the Textile industry. Tamilnadu is the leading State in the Country in Textile sector with 46% of Spinning capacity, 60% of yarn export, 20% of Power loom capacity, 12% of Handloom capacity, 70% of Cotton Fabric Knitting capacity, 20% TUFs investments, direct employment to around 31 lakh people, more than Rs. 50,000 cr exports and 1/3 of textile business in the country. Tamil lnadu's Spinning Sector possess 60% of Spinning Mills in the Country and holds the number one position. Still, many of the Spinning Mills in the State are functioning with obsolete machinery and are not equipped with State-of-theÂˇar t technology.This is evident from the fact that the Spindle capacity of the State is only 46% and similarly, 35% of yarn is produced as against 60% of Spinning Mills in Tami lnadu.The cotton based Spinning Sector of the State is also now shifting attention to Man Made Synthetic Filament Yarn.

To help continue the growth, 2% Interest Subvention for investments on Technological Upgradation and NCM-MARCH 2019 88

Modernization in existing Spinning Mills will be provided for spinning sector under this policy with a vintage period of minimum 15 years on installed machinery. Handloom Sector Tamilnadu has the pride for its unique Handloom products like Silk Sarees, Cotton Sarees, Dhoties, Lungies, Towels, Furnishing Materials, etc. There are 21.46 lakh handlooms in India, of which 1.89 lakh handlooms are in the State providing employment to around 3.19 lakh handloom weavers. Tamilnadu occupies third position in the country in terms of number of handlooms installed and in production.

The following facilities will be extended to handloom sector: 1) Production of Sarees and Dhoties under Cost Free Distribution of Sarees and Dhoties Scheme and production of Uniforms Cloth Varieties under Free Supply of Uniforms to School Children, to provide continuous employment to people and pupils of Tamilnadu; 2) Scheme for Free Supply of Electricity to Handloom Weavers households @ 200 units bi-monthly to weaversâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; households; 3) Savings and Security Scheme with State contribution of 8 paise per rupee of wage earned by the co-operative handloom weavers, to encourage the savings habit; 4) Family Pension Scheme (Rs.1,000/ month for the nominee of the co-operative handloom weaver, deceased before attaining the age of 60 years;

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NEWS BRIEFS 5) Old Age Pension Scheme of Rs.1,000/- per month for the cooperative handloom weavers on attaining the age of 60 years;

Societies will be enhanced from the present 4% to 6% to reduce the interest burden of the Handloom Weavers Co-operative Societies;

6) Handloom Support Programme to support innovation and product diversiication in the handloom sector, with an allocation of Rs.40 crore;

16) To promote the sale of handloom cloth, increase of Rebate Subsidy Scheme allocation for co-operative sector from Rs.80 to Rs.150 cr/yr;

7) Life Insurance Scheme, under Pradhan Mantri Jeevan Jyoti Bima Yojana (PMJJBY), Pradhan Mantri Suraksha Bima Yojana (PMSBY) and Mahatma Gandhi Bunkar Bima Yojana (MGBBY) for the handloom weavers and ancillary workers;

17) Design Development, Products Diversi ication and introduction of new products based on other raw materials like Tussar Silk, Linen, Jute, etc., will be focused to cater to the needs of the market trends and demands;

8) To provide credit assistance to the handloom weavers under Weaver MUDRA Scheme of the Government of India;

18) To train, retrain and upgrade the weavers' skill, multi-level training in weaving, design development and processing including dyeing will be provided by dovetailing funds under Skill Upgradation Schemes from Tamilnadu Skill Development Mission;

9) Providing infrastructural facilities for the handloom clusters though Cluster Development Programmes under National Handloom Development Programme of the Government of India; 10) Hank Yarn Obligation to ensure availability of hank yarn to handloom weavers. Transport Subsidy, Depot Expenses and Hank Yarn Price Subsidy to handloom weavers on the purchase of hank yarn and silk yarn under Yarn Supply Scheme of the Government of India; 11) To protect the heritage of handloom varieties, support will be provided to register handloom varieties under the Geographical Indication Act, 1999; 12) Steps will be taken to register traditional products such as Thirubuvanam Sarees, Koorainadu Sarees, Kodalikaruppur Sarees and other suitable products under the Geographical Indication Act, 1999, to protect the heritage and weaving craftsmanship; consumers aware of genuine handloom products from fake ones through “Handloom Mark”, “Silk Mark” and “India Handloom Brand”; 14) The Government will focus on Weaver Centric Programmes and schemes beneitting both co-operative fold and outside co-operative fold weavers; 15) Interest Subsidy for Primary Handloom Weavers Co-operative

19) With an objective to develop the silk handloom industry, a Special Rebate for Silk will be provided to market handloom silk products of the cooperatives; 20) The State will encourage setting up of Silk Parks in prominent silk clusters viz., Kancheepuram, Salem, Arni and Thirubuvanam; 21) e-Marketing will be encouraged to expand the marketing opportunities of handloom products; 22) Handloom Census will be undertaken at regular intervals, in coordination with the Government of India, so as to formulate a suitable policy and devise need based programmes; 23) Credit support to handloom weavers will be provided for Production and Marketing, dovetailing funds from Government of India Schemes and NABARD.

Powerloom Sector Tamilnadu holds the second position in the country in terms of number of power looms installed. There are about 24.86 lakh registered power looms in India, of which, Tamilnadu has 5.63 lakh power looms with 10.19 lakh workforce. The State has 212 Power loom Weavers Co-operative Societies and these Societies are proNCM-MARCH 2019 90

ducing cloth required for the Cost Free Distribution of Sarees and Dhoties Scheme and the Scheme of Free Supply of Uniforms to School Children. The Ready-made Garments and Home Textiles sector, which are mainly focusing on international market are highly dependent on the Powerloom sector to meet their fabric requirement.

The following assistances are provided by the Government for the development of the Power loom sector: 1) Scheme for Free Supply of Electricity to Power loom Weavers @ 750 units bi-monthly for about 1.06 lakh Power loom units and Concessional power tariff to Power loom sector; 2) Production of Sarees and Dhoties under Cost Free Distribution of Sarees and Dhoties Scheme and production of Uniforms Cloth Varieties under Scheme of Free Supply of Uniforms to School Children to provide continuous employment to power loom weavers in co-operative fold and to fulill the clothing needs of the people and pupils of Tamilnadu; 3) 10% Credit Linked Capital Investment Subsidy for Power loom sector for investments on brand new shuttle-less looms under Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS); 4) To provide a world class infrastructure to integrate production chain, to fulill the business needs, to boost production and export, to overcome the bottlenecks in infrastructure and common facilities in brownield clusters, subsidy of 60% of the project cost with maximum ceiling upto Rs.50 crore under Modiied Comprehensive Power loom Cluster Development Scheme (MCPCDS) of the Government of India; 5) Insurance cover to the power loom workers under Universal Insurance Coverage Scheme of the Government of India with coverage of Rs.1,00,000/- to Rs.4,00,000/-; 6) 75% of the cost subject to the ceiling of Rs. 10,000/- per person under Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS);

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NEWS BRIEFS 7) Financial assistance such as life insurance cover, marriage assistance, educational assistance, maternity assistance, assistance for purchase of spectacles and pensionary beneit through the Tamilnadu Powerloom Weaving Workers' Welfare Board; 8) The State Government will continue to implement the Central schemes for the welfare and development of the power loom sector as a whole; 9) Implementation of PowerTex India, a Comprehensive Scheme for Power loom Sector Development launched by the GoI. 10) The Government of Tamilnadu will provide 10% additional Capital Subsidy, subject to Rs.4 lakh per loom for purchase of brand new shuttleless looms under ATUFS; 11) The Government of India is providing 10% Capital Subsidy for promoting brand new preparatory machines. The State Government will provide additional 10% Capital Subsidy subject to a ceiling of Rs.30 lakh per unit (2 Units of Warping Machines & 1 Unit of Sizing Machine); 12) The Government of India is providing 50% Capital Subsidy for in-situ upgradation of Plain looms to Semi Automatic Shuttle Looms, Semi Automatic Shuttle Looms to Shuttleless Rapier Looms, Plain Looms to Shuttleless Rapier Looms under PowerTex India. The State Government will also provide 10% additional capital subsidy under this scheme; export by creating world class infrastructure, 9% of project cost, with a maximum ceiling of Rs.9 crore will be provided as State grant similar to the grants provided under Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) under Modi ied Comprehensive Power loom Cluster Development Scheme (MCPCDS); 14) One Time Assistance of 25% of the project cost, with a ceiling of Rs.10 crore for setting up of Trade Facilitation Centre on PPP model will be provided, if encumbrance free land is available with the industry; 15) Power loom Census will be undertaken at regular intervals, in coordination with the GoI, so as to formulate a suitable policy and devise need based programmes;

Processing Sector:

Knitting, Apparel & Garmenting

There are 2614 Hand Processing Units (25% of total units in India) and 985 Power Processing units in Tamilnadu. The Government will focus on setting up of CETPs with ZLD facility in Textile Clusters both in the form of setting up of Green Field Textile Processing Parks with CETP and also setting up CETPs alone by interlinking existing dyeing units, to arrest pollution and to ensure environmental protection.

This sector is the final stage of the textile value chain and maximum value-addition takes place at this stage. Tiruppur is the biggest knitting cluster in India contributing 45% of total knitwear exports (>90% cotton based garments). It employs 6 lakh persons directly in more than 6000 Knitting and Garmenting units. Tiruppur accounts for Rs.10,000 cr domestic turnover and over Rs.25,000 cr in exports per annum. Chennai is also a major RMG Cluster.

1) 10% Credit Linked Capital Investment Subsidy for Processing sector under the ATUFS; 2) Financial assistance of 50% of the project cost, subject to a maximum ceiling of Rs.75.00 crore per project by the GoI for establishment of Processing Parks under Integrated Processing Development Scheme (IPDS). In addition, State Government financial assistance upto 25% of project cost, subject to a maximum ceiling of Rs.37.50 crore per project; 3) Under Integrated Processing Development Scheme (IPDS) for the establishment of Processing Parks, interest subvention of 5% will be provided for the credit availed towards 25% contribution of SPV; 5) Financial assistance in the form of 10% Capital Subsidy, with a ceiling of Rs.20 lakh per machine will be provided on purchase of Wider Width Fabric Printing Machines; 6) Financial assistance to create necessary infrastructural support - for promoting Erode as Textile Processing Printing Centre- will be provided; 7) Assistance of 15% Capital Subsidy will be provided for setting up of Efluent Treatment Plants (ETPs)/ Hazardous Waste Treatment Storage and Disposable Facility (HWTSDF) with ZLD, subject to a maximum subsidy of Rs.5 crore; 8) Support will be provided for R&D on PPP mode for efficient effluent management and for minimizing operational cost of CETPs and IETPs; 9) Processing Cluster will be promoted in Ramanathapuram district with Financial assistance under the IPDS.

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Incentives offered include: 1) 40% ofthe Project Cost, limiting to Rs.40 crore for setting up of Textile Parks. An additional grant upto Rs.10 crore per Park by the GoI for setting up of additional infrastructure including factory buildings; 2) 15% Credit Linked Capital Investment Subsidy (CIS) for investments in Garmenting sector under GoI's ATUFS. An additional 10% CIS to Garmenting units for benchmarked eligible machinery; 3) Implementation of GoI's Scheme for Production and Employment Linked Support for Garmenting Units; 4) Reduction in number of working days from 240 to 150 under section 80JJAA of Income Tax Act; 5) GoI will bear the entire 12% of Employee PF Scheme contribution of employer. Flexibility in Labour Laws to increase productivity; 6) For setting up of New Training Centres for Apparel and Textiles linked with ITIs, 25% Subsidy for machinery purchased, subject to a maximum ceiling of Rs.20 lakh per Centre will be given through Tamilnadu Skill Development Agency; 7) Assistance for setting up of Trainingcum-Production Centres at potential clusters.

There are host of other incentives for technical textiles and for infrastructure related investments. Also, for labour welfare activities and for training/skill development initiatives. To acheive ZLD, investments in CETPs and IETPs would be rewarded suitably.

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