Gentlemans Diary Magazine · The Design Issue by Gentlemans Diary Magazine

GENTLEMANS DIARY MAGAZINE.

T H E

D E S I G N

I S S U E

G E N T L E M A N S â&#x20AC;&#x2C6; D I A RY â&#x20AC;&#x2C6; M A G A Z I N E

design is not just what it looks like and feels like design is how it works

Cover Photo

Nikos Papadopoulos

Editor in Chief and Creative Director

Nico Louris Art Director

Pasquale Karatzezo Public Relations and Advertising

Maria Parma Contributors

Christoph Musiol Bodo Ernle Helena Narra Benjamin Becher Nikos Papadopoulos Kelly Filiou Manos Jojos Ioanna Karagiorgou Konstantinos Theofanidis Ruggiero Cortellino Zina Charkoplia Theodoros Filippas Spiros Ntaikos Stratis Andreadis Chryssa Calikiopoulou Pa n o s Va r o u h a s Va g e l i s L i a k o s Alexis Nikou Yiannis Charalambopoulos

Special Thanks to

Christoph Musiol

GENTLEMANS DIARY MAGAZINE.

contents e d i t o r â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s l e t t e r 8 essentials 11 the root of design 23 craftsmanship 29 brandenburg paradise 31 z i n aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s v i b e 33 a bag should be salty 49 harbour stories 61 the italian dream 75 jungle city 91 nikos papadopoulos 99 abstract situation 111 groom it up 121 organizer and addresses 128

GENTG LE EM NA TN L ES M DAI N A SR YD IMAARGYA . ZINE

e d i t o r ’s l e t t e r

De·sign (noun) {dih-zahyn} purpose or planning that exists behind an action, fact, or object

Design is something that can be found everywhere even if most of us can’t see it, but that doesn’t change the fact that design affects all of us - our daily lives. To convince you about that, think about a pen - just a normal writing pen. The fact that no one is thinking about the pen when writing is a manifest of great design. If the design of that object wouldn’t be perfect, it would disturb us - we would think about it. If we apply that in every aspect of our lives, only then we get close to how much design surrounds us. We created “The Design Issue” just as an act to remember that design is fundamental, especially to those who seek for aesthetics and perfection. Because if aesthetics are the car and perfection is the destination, then design is the wheel of that car. And remember: this is an endless roadtrip and that’s exactly the beauty in it.

Louris Nico Louris Editor in Chief

GENTLEMANS DIARY MAGAZINE.

aesthetics as a way of living

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

t o d a y First row 1. Flos Gun Bedside Lamp designed by Philipp Starck 800 € 2. Byredo Parfums M/Mink Eau de Parfum 100ml 98 € Second row 4. Meisterstück Solitaire Pen by Montblanc 1.280 € 5. Yellow Gold Cufflinks by Brioni price on request

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

Zepellin Air Speaker Dock by Bowers and Wilkins 600 â&#x201A;Ź

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

First row 1. Cashmere Blanket by Armand Diradourian 2.355 € 2. Camouflage Sneaker by Valentino 490 € Second row 4. Louis Vuitton Limited Edition Harcover Book by Visionaire 1.750 € 5. Leather Holdall Bag by Givenchy 1.815 €

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

The Urushi bicycle project by Vanhulsteijn 32.000 â&#x201A;Ź

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

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N M O V E M E N T O W N . ( G R E E C E ) W O R L D W I D E .

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND W H AT PAT H LED YOU TO S TA R T A DESIGN AGENCY? WE WANT TO MAKE THE WORLD A BETTER PLACE: B E E T R O O T ’ S C R E AT I V E M I S S I O N I S T O M I N I M I Z E INTERFERENCE BETWEEN HUMANS AND THINGS T H AT A R E I M P O R TA N T.

I N W H I C H W AY S C A N D E S I G N A F F E C T O U R D A I LY LIVES? I N E V E R Y P O S S I B L E W A Y. T O D E S I G N I S T O ATTEMPT TO CONTROL THE INTERFACE BETWEEN HUMANS AND ANYTHING WE COME ACROSS I N C L U D I N G O T H E R H U M A N B E I N G S . I T M AY B E P O S I T I V E O R N E G AT I V E , E N H A N C I N G O R D I M I N I S H I N G , C L E A R O R D I S O R I E N T I N G B U T I T H I G H LY A F F E C T S O U R P E R C E P T I O N O F O U R C O M M U N I C AT I O N TA R G E T.

"BEETROOT DESIGN" SOUNDS INTERESTING AS A N A M E . T H E S T O RY B E H I N D T H AT N A M E ? THANK YOU. WE WERE, AND STILL ARE, VERY FOND OF A NOVEL BY TIM ROBINS CALLED “THE JITTERBUG PERFUME” IN WHICH THE BEETROOT IS DESC R I B E D A S T H E M O S T I N T E N S E V E G E TA B L E W I T H A DISTINCTIVE PERFUME, PERMANENT COLOR AND PA S S I O N AT E “ AT T I T U D E ” A S I T L I T E R A RY R E A C T S UNDER PRESSURE BY “BLEEDING”. ALSO IN THE B O O K T H E R E I S A P R O V E R B T H AT G O E S L I K E T H I S : “ A S T O R Y T H AT B E G I N S W I T H A B E E T R O O T, E N D S W I T H T H E D E V I L . T H AT I S A R I S K T H AT W E S H O U L D TA K E ” , H E N C E O U R N A M E : B E E T R O O T.

WHICH HAVE BEEN YOUR FAVOURITE PROJECTS ALL THESE YEARS AND WHY? E V E R S I N C E W E S TA R T E D W E D E C I D E D T O N E V E R A C C E P T A C O M M I S S I O N T H AT D O E S N O T G I V E A S A N O P P O R T U N I T Y T O C R E AT E S O M E T H I N G W E F E E L R I G H T A N D E N J O Y T H E C R E AT I V E P R O C E S S A N D T H I S I S T H E E T H O S B Y W H I C H W E O P E R AT E A N D W I L L C O N T I N U E T O O P E R AT E . S T I L L W E H AV E A S O F T S P O T F O R O U R S E L F - I N I T I AT E D P R O J E C T S LIKE OUR MANGEL WURZEL LIMITED EDITION POSTERS AND BOOKS OR “THE GREEK MONSTERS” EXHIBITION ETC, AS THESE PROJECTS ARE UNOBSCURED EXAMPLES OF WHO WE ARE AND W H AT W E D O .

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE DESIGN LANDS C A P E I N Y O U R C O U N T RY G R E E C E C O M PA R I N G T O THE EUROPEAN? UNLIKE SOME OTHER EUROPEAN DESIGNERS, GREEK DESIGNERS ARE EXPERIENCING A VERY FINE MOMENT IN MODERN GREEK HISTORY WHERE WE NEED TO PROVE OUR COUNTRIES’ ACTUAL WORTH I N A G L O B A L S C A L E . T H I S I S A G R E AT O P P O R T U N I T Y F O R U S A L L T O D E M O N S T R AT E T H AT C O N T E M P O R A RY G R E E K D E S I G N D O E S S TA N D R I G H T N E X T T O T H E M A N Y S P L E N D I D N AT I O N A L P R O D U C T S A N D SERVICES, GREECE HAS TO OFFER. GREEK COMMUN I C AT I O N D E S I G N I S V E RY M U C H F O C U S E D O N T H E “IDEA” AND THE “CONTEXT” AS OPPOSED OF B E I N G M A I N LY A V I S U A L A F FA I R . M O S T O F T H E D E SIGN OUTCOMES ARE BEING DRIVEN BY A CONCEPT T H AT C A N B E D E S C R I B E D W I T H A F E W W O R D S B E FORE EVEN BEING VISUALIZED. THIS IS QUITE APP R O P R I AT E SINCE “LOGOS” (REASON, TA L K , SPEECH) WAS AND STILL IS A VERY STRONG ELEM E N T I N O U R C U LT U R E . G R E E K D E S I G N I S F O C U SED, COMPREHENSIBLE AND “TO THE POINT”.

I T S E E M S T H AT T H E " G R E E K M O N S T E R S E X H I B I T I O N " I S A WAY T O E X P R E S S T H E A RT I S T I C V E I N I N S I D E O F Y O U . W H Y D I D Y O U S TA R T A P R O J E C T L I K E T H AT ? W E W O U L D R AT H E R L E AV E O U R W O R K T O D O T H E TA L K I N G B U T I T M U S T B E S A I D T H AT “ T H E G R E E K M O N S T E R S ” I S C E R TA I N LY N O T A D I S P L AY O F A R T NOR WAS IT EVER CONCEIVED OR PRESENTED IN T H I S W A Y. T H E C L O S E S T W E E V E R G O T T O A R T I S V I A O U R T W O E X H I B I T I O N S AT T H E A . A N T O N O P O U L O U A R T G A L L E RY I N AT H E N S , W H E R E W E W E R E I N V I T E D T O D E M O N S T R AT E O U R R E A C T I O N T O T H E C H A L L E N G E O F C R E AT I N G D E S I G N S T H AT C O U L D B E D I S P L AY E D I N A N A R T G A L L E R Y A S A R T. “THE GREEK MONSTERS” EXHIBITION WAS A PROJ E C T W E C R E AT E D I N R E S P O N S E T O T H E I N V I TAT I O N O F T H E R E D D O T F O U N D AT I O N I N B E R L I N , A S T H E W I N N E R S O F T H E R E D D O T C O M M U N I C AT I O N DESIGN “AGENCY OF THE YEAR” AWARD. WE DECID E D T O C R E AT E A N I N S TA L L AT I O N ( N O W T U R N E D INTO A FULL SCALE EXHIBITION) OF RE- DESIGNED MONSTERS FROM THE GREEK MYTHOLOGY IN VAR I O U S F O R M S , C O U P L E D B Y T E X T S T H AT P R E S E N T E D T H E M A S P O E T I C R E P R E S E N TAT I O N S O F T H E PRINCIPLES, PRACTICES AND ETHOS OF COMMUNIC AT I O N D E S I G N . I N A W AY “ T H E G R E E K M O N S TERS” EXHIBITION IS A M U LT I FA C E T E D THREE-DIMENSIONAL VISUAL MANIFESTO.

W H AT I S G O O D D E S I G N F O R Y O U ? T H E I N V I S I B L E O N E . T H E D E S I G N T H AT B E C O M E S ONE WITH THE MESSAGE. GOOD DESIGN IS WHEN T H E I D E A , P R O D U C T O R S E R V I C E T H AT I S B E I N G C O M M U N I C AT E D G R A S P S , Y O U A S D I R E C T LY A S P O S S I B L E . A N D I T TA K E S G R E AT D E S I G N T O D O J U S T T H AT ! A N D T H E P E R F E C T C I T Y T O C R E AT E G O O D D E SIGN? A N Y P L A C E W I T H A G O O D TA X P O L I C Y F O R D E S I G N ENTERPRISES AND FAST ACCESS TO THE INTERNET WOULD DO!

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

WHICH ICONIC LOGO WOULD BE A REAL CHALLENGE TO REDESIGN? I N O R D E R T O A N S W E R T H AT, W E W O U L D H A V E T O KNOW THE REASON “WHY” WE WOULD REDESIGN A N I C O N I C L O G O . Y O U C A N N O T M E R E LY R E D E S I G N SOMETHING JUST BECAUSE IN NEEDS A “FACEL I F T ” . L O G O S A R E C O M M U N I C AT I O N S D E V I C E S A N D I N S O M E C A S E S T H E Y A R E S T R O N G C O M M U N I C AT I O N D E V I C E S . A LT H O U G H T H E H Y P O T H E S I S O F P I CKING-UP A FEW ICONIC LOGOS AND JUST TOYING AROUND WITH THEM IS A TEMPTING ONE, WE WOULD RESIST PROVIDING A SOLID ANSWER ON THIS ONE. OH, NEVER MIND: THE NIKE “SWOOSH” BECAUSE IT’S PERFECT!

T H I S AT T I T U D E F O R Q U I T E S O M E T I M E N O W : W E BELIEVE IN “OPEN SOURCE” DESIGN AND WE E N J O Y C R E AT I N G C O M M U N I C AT I O N D E S I G N G E N E T I C C O D E S R AT H E R T H A N F I X E D A P P L I C AT I O N S . C A N Y O U L I S T U S 5 I N S P I R AT I O N S O U R C E S T H AT Y O U T U R N T O W H E N I N N E E D O F C R E AT I V E I N S P I R AT I O N ? 1 LIFE OUT OF THE OFFICE, LIKE SPENDING TIME W I T H F R I E N D S A N D F A M I LY, H A V I N G H O B B I E S A N D ACTIVITIES, VISITING PLACES, SPENDING TIME IN N AT U R E E T C . 2 P R E - D I G I T A L E R A C R A F T S M A N S H I P, W H I C H I S A H U G E I N S P I R AT I O N F O R P R O B L E M S O LV I N G 3 A B S T R A C T A R T, F O R F I S H I N G P R O C E S S E S O F T H I N K I N G A N D F O R I N V E S T I G AT I N G T H E L I M I T S O F C O M P R E H E N S I B I L I T Y. 4 TEAMWORK. WORKING IN BEETROOT IS A TEAM S P O R T. W E TA L K T O E A C H O T H E R A L L T H E T I M E , WE CHALLENGE EACH OTHER’S WORK, WE DISCUSS P R O B L E M S O P E N LY A N D W E A B O L I S H PAT R O N A G E O F A P R O J E C T O R A N A S P E C T O F I T, O N T H E GROUND T H AT GETTING TOO PERSONAL WITH Y O U R C R E AT I O N C O M P R O M I S E S Y O U R O B J E C T I V E NESS. WE ALL WORK ON THE SAME PROJECTS O F T E N A L L O W I N G O U R T E A M M AT E T O F I N I S H W H AT W E S TA R T E D O R T H E O T H E R W AY A R O U N D . I T ’ S H E A LT H Y A N D K E E P S U S O N T H E E D G E . 5 S L E E P, T H A T A L L O W S U S T O R E B O O T A N D S T A R T W I T H A T R U LY F R E S H M I N D . 1 3 . W H AT P L A N S D O Y O U H AV E F O R T H E F U T U R E ? O U R P L A N I S T O M A I N TA I N O U R Q U A L I T Y A N D GROW EVEN MORE, BUT WORK LESS. THIS IS POSSIB L E B Y C A R E F U L P L A N N I N G A N D P R O P E R A L L O C ATION OF RESOURCES, BUT RUNNING A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS IN THE MIDST OF AN ECONOMIC CRISIS DID NOT ALLOW US TO HAVE THE TIME TO SIT D O W N A N D W O R K O U R E X PA N S I O N I N D E TA I L . O U R P L A N F O R T H E F U T U R E I S T O D O J U S T T H AT. . . A S WELL AS EVERYTHING ELSE!

T H R O U G H T H E PA S T F E W Y E A R S Y O U W O N M A N Y AWARDS AS AN AGENCY INCLUDING THE RED DOT AGENCY OF THE YEAR AWARD IN 2011. YOUR N E X T TA R G E T ? WINNING AWARDS WAS NEVER OUR GOAL NOR WILL IT EVER BE. WE DO SUBMIT OUR WORK IN CONT E S T S A N D PA R T I C I PAT E I N F O R U M S , E X H I B I T I O N S E T C . B E C A U S E W I N N I N G M E A N S W E G E T A G R E AT EXCUSE TO VISIT SOME PLACE, MEET OTHER DESIGNERS, PROMOTE OUR WORK AND EXCHANGE KNOWLEDGE. A PA RT FROM KEEPING O U R S E LV E S AND OUR C L I E N T S H A P P Y, T H AT I S A N O N G O I N G G O A L ; O U R NEXT BIG THING WILL BE A BRAND NEW BEETROOT B A S E . O V E R T H E PA S T T H R E E Y E A R S , W E H AV E B E COME BIGGER AND WE CAN USE SOME EXTRA S PA C E A N D A L S O W E W O U L D L I K E T O D E V E L O P SOME SELFI N I T I AT E D PROJECTS FOR WHICH S PA C E I S A K E Y E L E M E N T, L I K E A B E E T R O O T E D U C AT I O N A L P L AT F O R M , A BEETROOT MEETINGS C A F É E T C . W H AT W O U L D B E Y O U R D R E A M C R E AT I V E P R O JECT? O H , W E C A N D R E A M W I T H A N Y C R E A T I V E B R I E F. T H AT I S O N E O F T H E R E A S O N S , P E O P L E H I R E U S . W E C A N D R E A M F O R A M I N I S T RY C A M PA I G N , A B A N K , A P R O D U C T F O R A N I D E A , Y O U N A M E I T. I N GENERAL WE LIKE PROJECTS WITH A SIGNIFICANT S O C I A L FA C T O R A S W E B E L I E V E T H AT T H E M O R E P E O P L E D E S I G N G E T S T O , T H E M O R E I S L I K E LY F O R T H E S E P E O P L E T O U N D E R S TA N D I T S C R E AT I V E P R O C E S S A N D T H E N S TA R T A P P LY I N G T H I S K N O W L E D G E IN OTHER ASPECTS OF THEIR LIVES. ALSO DESIGN GETS BETTER WHEN MANY PEOPLE INTERACT WITH IT AND MORE SO WHEN IT IS OPEN TO EVERYONE W H O M I G H T W A N T T O H A V E A G O W I T H I T. O U R D E S I G N S T R AT E G Y H A S S H I F T E D A L O T T O W A R D S

COULD YOU DESIGN SOMETHING QUICK FOR GENTLEMANS DIARY MAGAZINE? — ( A L I N E I S T H E S H O RT E S T ( Q U I C K E S T ) WAY B Y WHICH TWO POINTS CAN BE CONNECTED)

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

THE ONASSIS CULTURAL CENTRE in Athens

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

THE GREEK MONSTERS EXHIBITION during Belgrade Design Week

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

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G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

FASHION IS FOR ME

my obsession my passion WHEN I AM BLOGGING I

a m s t re s s e d a n d I e a t a l o t o f c h o c o l a t e T R AV E L L I N G A R O U N D T H E W O R L D I U N D E R S T O O D T H AT

i t s o n e o f t h e t h i n g s t h a t ke e p s m e a l i v e a n d f u l l o f e n e r g y . I l o v e t o g e t e x p e r i e n c e n e w a d v e n t u re s a n d m e e t i n t e re s t i n g p e o p l e MY FAVORITE SHOPPING SPOT IS

Soho in NYC

MY NEXT FLIGHT WILL BE TO

Pa r i s n e x t w e e k M Y L AT E S T O B S E S S I O N I S

working on my shoe line for a Japanese brand M Y L AT E S T P U R C H A S E I S

my new Celine bag MY FAVORITE HIGH HEELS ARE

pigalle by Christian Louboutin, classic and sexy I COULDN'T LIVE WITHOUT

my iPhone 5

A TRUE LADY SHOULD HAVE IN HER WARDROBE

a chanel 2.55 bag THE IDEAL GENTLEMAN IS

the one who is smart, sexy, stylish and he knows who Balmain is I LIKE MY MAN TO DRESS

l i ke J o h a n n e s H u e b l ( l u c k y O ) THE BEST PLACE IN THE WORLD IS

t h e C h e e s e c a ke f a c t o r y l o l IN THE FUTURE I WANT

to love again

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

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G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

S A LT Y B A G I S A N U P C Y C L I N G C O M PA N Y F O C U S E D O N PA S S I N G O N T H E U N I Q U E S T O R I E S F R O M E A C H S A I L T H AT M A K E S U P T H E I R P R O D U C T S . I T W A S F O U N D E D B Y C H RY S S A , S T R AT I S , S P I R O S A N D PA N O S A N D I S L O C AT E D I N C O R F U , G R E E C E . COLLECT DISCARDED AND RETIRED SAILS THEY FROM THE GREEK SEAS AND UPCYCLE THEM INTO C A R E F U L LY D E S I G N E D , L O N G - L A S T I N G B A G S & A C C E S S O R I E S . E A C H S A LT Y B A G C O M E S W I T H I T S O W N U N I Q U E S T O RY T H AT L I V E S O N . A S A N U P C Y C L I N G C O M PA N Y T H E Y R E A L LY L I K E R E D E F I N I N G W H AT M O S T P E O P L E T H I N K O F A S T R A S H O R R U B B I S H . T H E Y TA K E DISCARDED AND RETIRED SAILS AND GIVE THEM A NEW LIFE AND NEW VALUE. E V E RY S A LT Y B A G I S D E S I G N E D T O B E R E U S E D O R T O E N D U P A S S O M E T H I N G E L S E , B E S I D E S T R A S H , AT SOME POINT IN THE FUTURE. T H E Y A L S O M A K E E V E RY AT T E M P T T O S O U R C E L O C A L LY, F O R E X A M P L E : T H E L E AT H E R I S C H O S E N F R O M S M A L L P R O D U C E R S WITH A LONG HISTORY OF CAREFUL AND ARTISINAL PRODUCTION. AS WITH THE SAILS, OVER TIME, IT A G E S N AT U R A L LY. T H E W E B B I N G T H E Y U S E I S F R O M A B E LT M A K E R WITH AN 80- YEAR OLD HISTORY OF PRODUCING E X C E L L E N T P R O D U C T S I N M E TA M O R P H O S I , AT T I C A . E A C H S A LT Y B A G I S M A D E F R O M S A I L S T H AT L I V E D MOST OF THEIR LIVES IN GREECE AND THE MEDITERRANEAN. EVERY SAIL COMES WITH ITS OWN UNIQUE STORIES W H I C H T H E Y TA K E C A R E T O G AT H E R A N D B E Q U E AT H TO ITS NEW OWNER. N O T W O S A LT Y B A G S A R E A L I K E . T H E R E A R E DIFFERENCES IN TEXTURE, COLOUR, STITCHING AS WELL AS AGING DEPENDING HOW HARD, AND HOW O F T E N E A C H S A I L W A S U S E D . C E R TA I N S A LT Y B A G S C O M E W I T H C R E A S E S O R M A R K S O N T H E M . R AT H E R THAN BEING SEEN AS DEFECTS WE LIKE TO THINK OF THEM AS THE WORDS THE WINDS HAVE WRITTEN O N T H E S A I L T H AT H E L P M A K E U P E A C H S A LT Y B A G ’ S U N I Q U E S T O R Y.

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

S A LT Y R U L E # 1 W E L O V E M A K I N G B A G S T H AT Y O U L O V E . S A LT Y R U L E # 2 G O O D D E S I G N I S I N N O VAT I V E MAKES A PRODUCT USEFUL IS AESTHETIC M A K E S A P R O D U C T U N D E R S TA N D A B L E IS UNOBTRUSIVE IS HONEST IS LONG LASTING I S T H O R O U G H D O W N T O T H E L A S T D E TA I L I S E N V I R O N M E N TA L LY- F R I E N D LY IS AS LITTLE DESIGN AS POSSIBLE S A LT Y R U L E # 3 IF YOU HAVE TO USE DISPOSABLE PLASTIC USE IT AS M U C H A S P O S S I B L E B E F O R E Y O U T H R O W I T A W A Y. S TA R T B Y W R I T I N G Y O U R N A M E O N T H E N E X T DISPOSABLE PLASTIC CUP YOU ʽLL USE. USE IT UNTIL IT ʽS BROKEN. S A LT Y R U L E # 4 G R A B O N T O W H AT I S E S S E N T I A L . Ι T I S T H E B E S T W AY T O M I N I M I Z E B O T H W A S T E A N D B A D TA S T E . S A LT Y R U L E # 5 THINK OF WASTE AS FOOD S A LT Y R U L E # 6 M A K E P R O D U C T S T H AT C R E AT E M AT E R I A L L O O P S . O R T H AT E N D U P A S S O M E K I N D O F F O O D F O R N AT U R E . S A LT Y R U L E # 7 B E A U T Y I S W H AT H A P P E N S W H E N E V E RY T H I N G W O R K S A S IT SHOULD. LETʼS SAVE BEAUTY AND BEAUTY WILL SAVE US BACK. S A LT Y R U L E # 8 UPCYCLING IS SEEING THE GLASS NOT HALF EMPTY OR H A L F F U L L , B U T F U L L O F A I R A N D W AT E R A N D POTENTIAL.

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

S A LT Y R U L E # 9 NOTHING IS WASTE. EXCEPT THINGS PRODUCED IN THIS ROOM. (PLACED ON OUR OFFICE'S WC WALL) S A LT Y R U L E # 1 0 I F A S T O RY I S W O RT H H E A R I N G M A K E S U R E T O PA S S I T ALONG. S A LT Y R U L E # 1 1 U S E C O L O U R W I S E LY. C H O O S E T H E L AT T E R B E T W E E N S H O U T I N G A N D WHISPERING. S A LT Y R U L E # 1 2 THE WORLD DOES NOT NEED ANOTHER BAG. W E M A K E S U R E T H AT Y O U B U Y M U C H M O R E T H A N T H AT. S A LT Y R U L E # 1 3 DONʼT DESIGN FOR THE SAKE OF THE FORM. DESIGN FOR THE SAKE OF THE STORIES. S A LT Y R U L E # 1 4 TRY AND USE LESS. TRY TO DO MORE. S A LT Y R U L E # 1 5 A W I S E LY M A D E P R O D U C T H A S M O R E T H A N P R E S E N T T E N S E - I T A L S O H A S A PA S T A N D A F U T U R E O N E . S A LT Y R U L E # 1 6 TA K E F E E D B A C K S E R I O U S LY. S A LT Y R U L E # 1 7 USE YOUR VOICE AND POWER TO DO GOOD. S A LT Y R U L E # 1 8 D I S R E G A R D A R U L E I F I T L E A D S T O H O R R I D R E S U LT S . S A LT Y R U L E # 1 9 E V E R Y S A I L ' S G O T A S T O R Y - S P R E A D I T.

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

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P H O T O G R A P H E R C H R I S T O P H M U S I O L

M O D E L S L U C A A N D N I S

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

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F I N A N C I A L A N A L Y S T T O O N E O F F A S H I O N D E S I G N E R S U P C O M I N G H A D A T A L K W I T H R U G G I E R O C W E F O U N D E R A N D C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R O F T H E A B O U T H I S W O R K , H I S A M B I T I O N S A N D T H E

T H E M O S T T A L E N T E D I N I T A L Y . O R T E L L I N O , T W O I T A L I A N B O Y S , M O D E R N G E N T L E M A N .

O N LY B Y H E A R I N G T H E T I T L E O F T H E B R A N D W E I M A G I N E A V E RY C L A S S I C I TA L I A N S T Y L E A N D K I N D O F “ G E N T L E M A N “ B R A N D . I S T H AT T R U E ? I N M Y O P I N I O N , E L E G A N C E I S A N I N N AT E AT T IT U D E T H AT Y O U C A N N O T B U Y, W H I C H F I R S T A F FECTS THE MOOD OF A PERSON AND HIS BEHAVIOR AND THEN HIS OUTFITS. BEING A GENTLEMAN IMP L I E S A C E R TA I N K I N D O F N AT U R A L AT T I T U D E T H AT I S E X P R E S S E D O N A D A I LY B A S I S . T H E B R A N D E X PRESSES A CONCEPT OF RELAXED ELEGANCE, SINCE WE WANT OUR GARMENTS TO BE WORN EAS I LY, W I T H O U T A N Y S U P E R S T R U C T U R E , A N D W I T H A N A B S O L U T E LY N AT U R A L AT T I T U D E T H AT D I S T I N GUISHES OUR MAN.

A CHILD MY RAIDS BETWEEN HIDES, PROTOTYPES, MODELS AND COLORS. THIS ENVIRONMENT HAS R E S U LT E D I N A S T R O N G PA S S I O N F O R R E S E A R C H AND THE PRODUCT PLACED WITHIN A BUSINESS C O N T E X T. S O I C O N D I E R M Y S E L F A S A P R O D U C T MANAGER WITH A STRONG SENSITIVITY TO AESTHETICS AND DESIGN. A R E T H E R E A N Y D E S I G N E R S T H AT Y O U F I N D I N T E RESTING AND WOULD LIKE TO FOLLOW THEIR PAT H ? P E R S O N A L LY, I R E A L LY A P P R E C I AT E T H E W O R K O F T O M F O R D , F E AT U R I N G A N E L E G A N T, A B S O L U T E LY MODERN STYLE WITH NO COMPROMISES. AND THEN PRADA, BUT MORE AS AN EXAMPLE OF A C O M PA N Y T H AT P E R F E C T LY E M B O D I E S T H E P R O T O T Y P E O F A G L O B A L C O M P A N Y.

W H AT W A S T H E S TA R T I N G P O I N T F O R Y O U T O C R E AT E “ T W O I TA L I A N B O Y S ” ? AFTER THE HIGH SCHOOL DIPLOMA, I STUDIED E C O N O M I C S I N M I L A N AT T H E L U I G I B O C C O N I U N I V E R S I T Y, W H E R E I E A R N E D A M A S T E R O F S C I E N C E I N A D M I N I S T R AT I O N , F I N A N C E A N D C O N T R O L . A F T E R G R A D U AT I N G , I B E G A N M Y C A R E E R A S A F I N A N C I A L A N A LY S T I N A L E A D I N G M A N A G E M E N T C O M PA N Y O F I N V E S T M E N T F U N D S . I REMEMBER THE YEARS SPENT IN MILAN AS INT E N S E A N D S AT I S F Y I N G , Y E A R S I N W H I C H A PA S S I O N F O R FA S H I O N I N C R E A S I N G LY G R E W I N S I D E ME, NOT AS A SIMPLE DESIRE TO OWN OBJECTS, B U T A S A D E S I R E T O C R E AT E A P E R S O N A L P R O J E C T IN THE FIELD OF MENSWEAR. SO MINE IS AN ECONOMIC, MORE COMMERCIAL E D U C AT I O N , B U T W I T H A S T R O N G I N C L I N AT I O N TOWARDS AESTHETICS AND DESIGN. A S I S A I D B E F O R E , AT T H E A G E O F 2 6 I H A D A VERY GOOD JOB IN MILAN, BUT I COULD NOT RESIST ANYMORE, I ALMOST DID NOT SLEEP FOR EXC I T E M E N T. I W O N D E R E D I F I C O U L D K E E P U P W I T H S TA R T I N G A N E X P E R I E N C E I N A V E RY C O M P L E X F I E L D A N D I N S U C H A PA R T I C U L A R M O M E N T. I N SIDE ME I WAS SUPER CONVINCED. I DECIDED TO S TA R T. AT 2 7 I F O U N D E D M Y C O M P A N Y, C O R D E S I G N , A N D T H E P R O J E C T S TA R T E D .

I F Y O U H A D T O S E L E C T O N E P I E C E T H AT W O U L D B E T H E O N LY P I E C E T H AT Y O U R C O M PA N Y W O U L D PRODUCE WHICH ONE WOULD IT BE? S U R E LY T H E B L A Z E R , I N A L L I T S F O R M S A N D E X P E R I M E N TAT I O N S , B O T H F O R I T S F I T A N D F O R T H E FA B R I C S A N D D E TA I L S U S E D . FOR WHICH KIND OF MAN ARE YOU DESIGNING FOR? AN ESTHETE. A FAST MAN IN THOUGHT AND ACT I O N , A D E T E R M I N E D A N D E D U C AT E D P E R S O N , ATTENTIVE TO HIS BODY AND MIND, A PERSON WHO O B S E R V E S A N D A N A LY Z E S , T R A V E L S A N D K N O W S HOW TO ENJOY HIS LIFE, IN ALL ITS ASPECTS. THE M A I N F E AT U R E I S T H E K I N D N E S S A N D C O U R T E S Y W I T H W H I C H H E A P P R O A C H E S D A I LY L I F E . T W O I TA L I A N B O Y S B E C A M E V E RY S U C C E S S F U L I N A SHORT AMOUNT OF TIME, HOW DO YOU FEEL A B O U T T H AT ? I A M V E R Y H A P P Y F O R S U C H A N A C H I E V E M E N T, B E C A U S E I B E L I E V E I N H A R D W O R K , I N C R E AT I V I T Y SET INSIDE A MODERN, ORGANIZED AND SIMPLIF I E D B U S I N E S S E N V I R O N M E N T. S TA R T I N G W I T H A N E W B R A N D I N A V E RY C O M P L E X M O M E N T AT G L O B A L L E V E L , F O R C O U N T L E S S M A R K E T A N D C O M M E R C I A L D Y N A M I C S , I S N E V E R E A S Y, Y O U N E E D A C L E A R V I S I O N O F Y O U R P R O J E C T, B U T ALSO D E F I N I T E LY A TA L E N T IN C R E AT I O N , A STRONG PLANNING AND SERIOUSNESS. I F W E H AV E A C H I E V E D S U C H R E S U LT S , T H I S M E A N S T H AT W E D I D A G O O D J O B A N D T H I S I S A F U R T H E R S AT I S FA C T I O N .

O B V I O U S LY Y O U H AV E A PA S S I O N F O R FA S H I O N . W H E R E D O E S T H I S PA S S I O N C A M E F R O M ? I C O M E F R O M A FA M I LY O F S T R O N G E N T R E P R E N E U R I A L V O C AT I O N . M Y FAT H E R W A S T H E F O U N D E R O F A LEADING EUROPEAN LEVEL SAFETY SHOES COMP A N Y. B U T I N T H E Y E A R S 8 0 A N D 9 0 T H I S C O M PA N Y P R O D U C E D C A U S A L S H O E S A N D S P O R T S , S O T H E C R E AT I V E P R O C E S S W A S V E R Y P R E S E N T. I R E M E M B E R A S

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

Y O U R D R E A M S A N D G O A L S A B O U T T W O I TA LIAN BOYS? T O B E C O M E A L E A D I N G I TA L I A N B R A N D T H AT E X P R E S S E S T H E I TA L I A N E L E G A N C E I N A N A B S O L U T E LY R E F I N E D , M O D E R N A N D C O N T E M P O R A R Y W A Y. IF YOU HAD TO MOVE TO ANOTHER CITY WHERE WOULD YOU CHOOSE TO GO? I W O U L D D E F I N I T E LY L I V E A C O U P L E O F Y E A R S IN TOKYO. H O W W O U L D Y O U D E S C R I B E A G R E AT A C H I E VEMENT IN YOUR BUSINESS? TO BE RECOGNIZED AS ONE OF THE MOST INN O VAT I V E A N D I N T E R E S T I N G B R A N D S AT B O T H N AT I O N A L A N D I N T E R N AT I O N A L L E V E L . FASHION BECOMES MORE AND N O WA D AY S MORE D I F F I C U LT AND STRANGE. DO YOU T H I N K T H AT P E O P L E N E E D A L L T H AT K I N D O F STUFF? T H E D I F F I C U LT Y L I E S I N T H E FA C T T H AT TA S T E S A R E N O W A B S O L U T E LY F R A G M E N T E D , D U E TO AN INCREDIBLE PRODUCT OFFER. T H A N K S T O A C O M P L E T E LY G L O B A L I Z E D C O M M U N I C AT I O N , E V E R Y C O U N T R Y, E V E R Y P E R S O N C A N C H O O S E W H AT B E S T R E P R E S E N T S T H E I R PERSONALITY WITHOUT BEING SUBJECTED TO E S TA B L I S H E D C O D E S . T O D A Y, THE CONSUMER IS THE FIRST WHO MIXES ALL, DIFFERENT STYLES, DIFFERENT LOOKS, AND THIS LEADS TO A VERY STRONG P U S H F R O M B E L O W T H AT C O M PA N I E S M U S T B E A B L E T O G R A S P I M M E D I AT E LY. C O N S I D E R I N G T H AT T O D AY T H E C O N S U M E R I S I N F L U E N C E D N O T O N LY B Y F A S H I O N , B U T A L S O B Y M U S I C , A R C H I T E C T U R E A N D A R T, A L L T H I S A F F E C T S T H E C O N S U M E R ' S TA S T E S A N D P E R CEPTION ABOUT HIS PERSONAL AESTHETICS. D O Y O U T H I N K T H AT M E N A R E M O R E I N T E R E S TED IN STYLE THAN IN FASHION? T H R O U G H D R E S S I N G , M A N C R E AT E S A P E C U L I A R S T Y L E T H AT B E S T M I R R O R S H I S P E R S O N A LITY AND HIS CONCEPT OF PERSONAL AESTHETICS. S O , I W O U L D S AY T H AT H E I S M O R E I N T E R E S T E D I N C R E AT I N G A P E R S O N A L S T Y L E B Y U S I N G W H AT O N T H E M A R K E T B E S T S U I T S H I M . TELL US 3 K E Y- P I E C E S FOR A MODERN GENTLEMAN AN A B S O L U T E LY FLAWLESS BLAZER TO BE WORN ON ANY OCCASION, HANDMADE MOCCASINS, HIS FAVORITE PERFUME. A N D AT L A S T L E T S TA L K A B O U T A N D S H O E S ! H O W I M P O R TA N T COMPLETE THE PERFECT LOOK? I RECOGNIZE THE PERSONALITY THE SHOES HE WEARS, SO I L IMAGINE.

ACCESSORIES ARE THEY TO OF A MAN BY EAVE YOU TO

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P H O T O G R A P H E R N I K O S P A P A D O P O U L O S P H O T O G R A P H E R ’ S A S S I S T A N C E K E L L Y F I L I O U F A S H I O N M A N O S

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S T Y L I N G A S S I S T A N C E I O A N N A K A R A G I O R G O U

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M O D E L ( A C E M O D E L S )

C O AT E L E F T H E R I A D E S J A C K E T D I M I T R I S P E T R O U S H I R T D I M I T R I S P E T R O U S O C K S R I C K O W E N S S H O E S D I M I T R I S P E T R O U

Y I O R G O S

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

T R E N C H C O AT D I M I T R I S P E T R O U S H I R T C O M M E D E G A R C O N S T U R T L E N E C K P R A D A T R O U S E R S D I M I T R I S P E T R O U S O C K S R I C K O W E N S S H O E S D I M I T R I S P E T R O U

T O TA L L O O K D I M I T R I S P E T R O U

J A C K E T A N D T R O U S E R S Y I O R G O S E L E F T H E R I A D E S S H I R T M A I S O N M A R T I N M A R G I E L A S O C K S R I C K O W E N S S H O E S D I M I T R I S P E T R O U

T O TA L L O O K Y I O R G O S E L E F T H E R I A D E S

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A N D T R O U S E R S D E S G A R C O N S

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N A M A O F T H E F E A R T I S T I

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H C O V E R S F O R S O M E O F T H E M O S T I M P O R T A N T S O U T T H E R E ( I N C L U D I N G V O G U E ) . I O N P H O T O G R A P H E R S T R Y I N G T O I N C L U D E T H I S I N E V E R Y S H O T A N D E V E R Y E D I T O R I A L . ’ S S T E P I N S I D E H I S W O R L D .

YOU ARE ONE OF THE MOST EDITORIAL AND U N I Q U E G R E E K P H O T O G R A P H E R S , M R . PA PA D O POULOS WHICH IS THE STORY BEHIND THIS CAREER? I WAS BORN IN AUSTRALIA, RAISED IN THESSALONIKI AND STUDIED PHOTOGRAPHY AT THE G R A P H I C A N D F I N E A R T U N I V E R S I T Y I N AT H E N S . W H I L E T E A C H I N G P H O T O G R A P H Y AT T H E E U R O PEAN SCHOOL OF PHOTOGRAPHY ONE OF MY MAIN INTERESTS WAS ACHITECTURAL PHOTOGRAP H Y. AT T H E Y E A R 2 0 0 0 I H AV E D E C I D E D T O G E T I N T O FA S H I O N W H E R E I A M C U R R E N T LY W O R K I N G .

WHICH WAS THE BIGGEST MOMENT IN YOUR CAREER? S H O O T I N G F O R W M A G A Z I N E I N N Y. WHICH ARE THE INGREDIENTS A PHOTOGRAPHER N E E D S N O WA D AY S ? A PA R T F R O M B E I N G TA L E N T E D A N D C R E AT I V E A PHOTOGRAPHER MUST ALSO HAVE THE ABILITY TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT TEAM OF BOTH COLLAB O R AT O R S A N D M O D E L S . FA S H I O N N E E D S P H O T O G R A P H Y. D O Y O U T H I N K T H AT P H O T O G R A P H Y N E E D S A L S O FA S H I O N ? N O T R E A L LY. P H O T O G R A P H Y E X I S T S A S A N A R T F O R M W I THOUT FASHION AND NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND.

THROUGH YOUR PORTFOLIO THERE IS A BIG RANGE OF BLACK AND WHITE PHOTOS. IS IT BEC A U S E Y O U T H I N K T H AT C O L O R L E S S P I C T U R E S A R E M O R E D R A M AT I C ? B L A C K A N D W H I T E P H O T O G R A P H Y O F T E N O U T L INES A R E A L I T Y W H I C H I S U N D O U B T E D LY A G R E AT CASE STUDY!HOWEVER T H AT DOESN'T M E A N T H AT C O L O U R I M A G E S A R E N O T O F T H E SAME VALUE.

M R . PA PA D O P O U L O S A S W E K N O W Y O U H AV E T R AV E L L E D A L O T, W H I C H W A S T H E P L A C E T H AT WAS A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE FOR YOU AND YOUR CAREER AS A PHOTOGRAPHER? NEW YORK. ITS LIKE DISNEYLAND FOR A PHOTOGRAPHER!

W H AT M E A N S A S U C C E S S F U L I M A G E T O Y O U ? W H E N T H E I M A G E H A S A S U B S TA N C E O N I T S O W N AND THE POWER TO INSPIRE STRONG F E E L I N G S . U LT I M AT E LY, W H E N L O O K I N G AT I T, I T E L E V AT E S B O T H Y O U R S O U L A N D S P I R I T.

N O WA D AY S W H E R E T H E R E I S S O M U C H C O M P E T I TION OUT THERE, HOW HARD IS IT TO SUCCEED AS A PHOTOGRAPHER? VERY H A R D . A PA RT FROM BEING TA L E N T E D , A G O O D A G E N T I S E S S E N T I A L . T H E D I G I TA L M E T H O D FA M I L I A R I S E P H O T O G R A P H Y T O A G R E AT N U M B E R O F P E O P L E R E S U LT I N G T O A M A J O R C O M P E T I TION.HOWEVER SOMEONE WITH EXPERIENCE IN THE FIELD CAN TELL IF BEHIND THE IMAGE THERE IS KNOWLEDGE OF THE ACTUAL METHOD.

D O Y O U T H I N K T H AT A S T I L L I M A G E C A N C R E AT E STRONG FEELINGS? D E F I N I T E LY, M O R E S O T H E S T I L L I M A G E S F R O M W A R D O C U M E N TA R I E S HOW DOES IT FEEL WORKING FOR THE BIGGEST FASHION MAGAZINES? G R E AT ! I F Y O U A R E I N T H I S I N D U S T RY W O R K I N G F O R T O P M A G A Z I N E S W I T H T O P C R E AT I V E A N D T O P M O D E L S I S T H E U LT I M AT E G O A L .

C O U L D Y O U W O R K E F F E C T I V E LY W I T H O U T U S I N G D I G I TA L E D I T I N G ? S U R E LY, I W A S S H O O T I N G I N F I L M F O R Y E A R S . YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE? KEEP SHOOTING

C A N Y O U N A M E U S 5 L I T T L E T H I N G S T H AT C A N HELP AN ARTIST GET INSPIRED? A S N A P S H O T, A S O N G , A L A N D S C A P E , A TA S T E O F S O M E T H I N G A N D A N O U T F I T.

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

a b s t r a c t

s i t u a t i o n

P H O T O G R A P H E R P A S Q U A L E K A R A T Z E T Z O

Leather Boots by Tommy Hilfiger

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Suede Boots by Tommy Hilfiger

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G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

101

Leather Boots by Matchless

102

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

Leather Boots by Matchless

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104

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

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Brogues by Massimo Dutti

106

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

Leather shoes by Karl Lagerfeld

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G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

g r o o m

i t

u p

P H O T O G R A P H E R C H R I S T O P H M U S I O L H A I R A N D M A K E - U P B E N J A M I N B E C H E R ( N I N A K L E I N )

C L A Y T O N

M O D E L P Y L E ( K U L T

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M O D E L S )

G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

Body Moisturizer Oud Wood by Tom Ford 50 € Eau de Parfum Oud Wood by Tom Ford 225 €

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G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

Cold Plasma by Perricone MD 160 €

Citrus Facial Wash by Perricone MD 35 €

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G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

Shaving Cream by Acqua di Parma 50 €

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G E N T L E M A N S D I A RY M A G A Z I N E

Hair Pomade by Daimon Barber 18 €

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F a s h i o n We e k O r g a n i z e r London 6-8 Januar y 2014 Florence 7-10 Januar y 2014 Milan 11-14 Januar y 2014 Paris 15-19 Januar y 2014 N e w Yo r k 21-28 Januar y 2014

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G E N T L E M A N S â&#x20AC;&#x2C6; D I A RY â&#x20AC;&#x2C6; M A G A Z I N E

Addresses starck.com byredo.com montblanc.com brioni.com m r p o r te r. co m bowers-wilkins.com valentino.com visionaireworld.com g i v e n c h y. c o m vanhulsteijn.com beetroot.gr sgt.gr kwnstantinoshoes.gr christophmusiol.com bodoernle.com narra.cc alexandermcqueen.com zegna.com prada.com gucci.com falke.com b u r b e r r y. c o m louisvuitton.com armani.com lanvin.com fashionvibe.net saltybag.com twoitalianboys.it nikospapadopoulos.com t o m m y. c o m matchlesslondon.com massimodutti.com karl.com tomford.com acquadiparma.com perriconemd.com t h e d a i m o n b a r b e r. b i g c a r te l . co m dimitrispetrou.com yiorgoseleftheriades.gr comme-des-garcons.com maisonmartinmargiela.com rickowens.eu

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