Gethiroshima Mag Autumn 2014 by GetHiroshima

BE MORE THAN A TOURIST

Seasonal

Going Out

Visitors

Life

Island Hopping by bike Festivals & Kagura Wagashi sweets

Dining & Nightlife Events Art

Pull-out maps Sights Transportation

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THE AUTUMN ISSUE 2014

KeMBY˙s

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I N T E R N A T I O N A L

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Looking for high quality food in a casual atmosphere? Kemby’s has all the bases covered with a great selection of tapas, pasta and Tex Mex, as well as gourmet sausages, seafood and their famous burgers.

Owner Prakash prides himself on his excellent wine selection, and is happy to help you make the right choice. As well as a full drink list, Kemby’s also has a very good selection of imported bottled craft beers.

Whether you are in the mood for a meal, you want to shoot some pool, or just shoot the breeze with the bilingual staff and friendly regulars, great nights start at Kemby’s.

Good food, Good people, Good atmosphere 17:30-00:30 Sunday-Thursday 17:30-01:00 Friday-Saturday

facebook.com/kembyshiroshima twitter.com/KembysHiroshima

Naka-ku, Otemachi 2-9-13 082-249-6201 map p.26 [A-3] 9

Hiroshima Restaurants > KeMBY’s OK!

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Map p.26 [C-2] 7

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WELCOME

GetHiroshima Mag Issue 3 September xx, 2014 Circulation 5,000 copies Published quarterly by GEC Next issue December 1, 2014 Printed by Hiroshima Chuo Printing Co., Ltd. Motoaki Tahara Editor-in-chief Paul Walsh

Cover: Welcome to the Autumn edition of the GetHiroshima magazine. These months between summer and winter always bring a refreshing change to Hiroshima. We hope this season brings recovery and positive change to the city as the landslide disaster still weighs heavy on many people’s minds. As the magazine goes to print, 72 people have died and more than 800 people have been evacuated from their homes in north of Hiroshima city.

Ippei Toge Photo: Junpei Ishida

ゲットヒロシマ秋号へようこそ夏が終わり、秋到来。この季節は毎年、広島に気持ち新たな新しい風を運んできてくれます。先日、広島を襲った土砂災害では多くの尊い命が犠牲となり、

Our hearts go out to the people living in these affected communities. If you would like to help, please join a volunteer clean-up group, or make a donation to the Red Cross (redcross.org). See volunteer stories (#muddybootchallenge) and up-to-date information on the situation at gethiroshima.com

いまだ行方不明の方もいらっしゃるなど被害は甚大です。後ページにも記してありますが、７２名が死亡し、８００名以上の方々が、広島市北部の自宅から避難をしている現状です。多くの被災者の方々が避難所で不安な時を過ごしています。あなたの気持ちを行動に。そして、今、我々にできること。ボランティア清掃グループへの参加、赤十字への寄付や募金など。ゲットヒロシマの記事の中にも、土砂災害ボランティアに

As autumn is a time for new beginnings, you may find a newfound optimism here as rice is harvested, and many fruits, seafood and vegetables are at their best. Since afternoons and evenings are cooler, people enjoy more hearty meals, warm sake and savory nabe stews. It is a wonderful time for communities to gather together for harvest festivals, school sport days, and when many people take time to walk, hike and enjoy the outdoors. Please take time to sit on a riverbank for a picnic, cycle around Hiroshima’s islands and spend time anywhere with a view of the colorful bursts of autumn leaves complimented by bright blue sky. Some evenings, taiko drums can be heard coming from neighborhood festivals accompanying the classic tale of good verses evil at colorful Kagura performances.

ついての情報が載っていますので、是非ご確認ください。さて、秋は、新たなはじまりの季節。お米の収穫、多くの果実、海の幸や山の幸など、どれも最高の状態でいただくことができる贅沢なシーズンです。朝晩の冷え込みは徐々に厳しくなっていきますが、心が温まる食べ物、芳醇なお酒、皆でつつく鍋などの楽しみが待っています。また、収穫祭、亥の子祭りや運動会など、仲間と集い、感謝を分かち合い、一緒に時間を共有するには最高の季節でもあります。自然を満喫できるウォーキングやハイキングなどのアウトドアに、家族や仲間同士で時間をとってみてはいかがでしょうか？川岸に座りピクニックをしたり、瀬戸内に点在する島々をサイクリングして、秋の澄んだ空、そして、紅葉を楽しんでみましょう。五感を潤し、満たしてあげる贅沢な体験になることでしょう。そして忘れてはいけないのが、我らが神楽。ほら、夕

Be curious, get out and find something new, smile at those around you, and enjoy yourself this season. jjwalsh

方、耳をすませば、遠くから太鼓の音がきこえていませんか？伝統的な物語と目に鮮やかな衣装を楽しみましょう。さあ、外に出て、行動してみましょう。いつの時も、子ども心を忘れずに好奇心旺盛に。ヒロシマの秋をめいっぱい楽し

Design team NININBAORI http://nininbaori.co.jp/ Art Direction: Judith Cotelle Katsuyoshi Kunimasa Norimitsu Maki Ryouta Kumagai Illustration Naomi Leeman http://www.naomileeman.com/ Sales, PR and marketing GEC World/GetHiroshima Tomomi Saito Rio Sekimoto Contributors Goto Izumi Matt Mangham JJ Walsh Paul Walsh Tim Buthod Leah Daugherty Kimiko Oku Rio Sekimoto Photography Judith Cotelle http://judhiroshima.tumblr.com hirofoto Jumpei Ishida Goto Izumi Mish Vampiro Photography http://www.mishvampiro.com Florence Nobuko Smith http://instagram.com/flogently JJ Walsh www.flickr.com/photos/hiroshimagab Special thanks to Ippei Toge and our generous sponsors. Find us online www.gethiroshima.com www.facebook.com/GetHiroshima https://www.flickr.com/photos/gethiroshima/sets/ @GetHiroshima on Twitter & Instagram Tag us with #gethiroshimamag All rights reserved © GetHiroshima 2014 As far as we are aware all info correct at time of going to print. If you see something that has changed, we’d really appreciate you letting us know at info@gethiroshima.com

みましょう。

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TO ADVERTISE CALL : 082-299-2953

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Warning/Disclaimer GetHiroshima and GEC World will not accept liability for any damages caused by the contents of GetHiroshima Mag, including, but not limited to any omissions, errors, facts or false statements. Opinions or advice expressed in GetHiroshima Mag are not necessarily those of GetHiroshima or GEC World.

CONTENTS Features 04. 06. 08. 09. 10. 22. 35. 36. 38. 39. 43. 49.

welcome your best shot must see gethiroshima picks news and shopping sport

11.

pecha kucha Passionate Hiroshima in 400 seconds.

12. koyo autumn leaf viewing The must-do activity in autumn how best to enjoy Hiroshima’s autumn colors.

14. festival focus This is the season for autumn shrine festivals and the 400 year old Ebessan festival which takes over the city center.

Tailgating Japanese style by Tim Buthod, Carp baseball and Sanfrecce soccer games

17. kagura

regional map events kids listings Art matt's moment

18. hiking sandan-kyo gorge

23. 8 page pull-out city guide maps and language

Discover the hidden gem of Japanese theater. Beautiful walk through stunning natural scenery is just a bus ride away.

20. okonomiyaki Everything you need to know about Hiroshima’s soul food.

31. trail running Leah Daugherty shares her favorite local trails (walking permitted too!)

32. island hopping the tobishima-kaido Discover bridges, sleepy fishing ports, orange groves and concubines on Hiroshima’s other bike route.

44. wagashi Matt Mangham explores Japan’s sweet side.

46. goto izumi's deep hiroshima Your guide to one of Japan’s endangered species the venerable Junkissa coffee shop.

48. hiroshima people Local hair dresser, Ippei Toge, sees his trade as a tool for doing good, both at home and abroad.

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2014

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Your Best Shot Thank you to Florence Nobuko Smith for submitting this lovely capture at Mitaki Temple. If you would like to be featured in one of our upcoming issues, please contact us at bestshot@gethiroshima.com Photo credit Florence Nobuko Smith - Texan in Hiroshima, Pecha Kucha Hiroshima organizer, lover of art and life. http://instagram.com/flogently

Volunteer Cleanup Hiroshima Landslide area Volunteering to help the cleanup project in the northern suburbs of Hiroshima city officially began on August 23rd and they expect to need volunteers until October. It is very satisfying to spend a day shoveling mud and moving stones to areas where the heavy machinery can pick it up. Alternatively clear mud/rocks from resident’s homes who have applied for volunteer assistance. There is a range of work you can do from holding the bags for people to fill, to helping tidy smaller areas, to filling bags with smaller rocks in piles. You need basic Japanese to be able to follow directions, but once you are assigned a group, it’s easy to just follow what the group does. To register, write your name, address (volunteering is officially limited to Hiroshima residents only), and cell phone number. You are then given volunteer insurance, assigned to a group of 10 in order of when you arrived. The group is asked to choose a leader, given tools and then shown to an assigned work area. You have water breaks regularly and a lunch break. There are unofficial volunteers helping out in the areas as well, but it’s probably best to officially register for safety/organisation reasons. Bring your lunch, clothes that cover arms/legs, work boots/rubber boots, lots of water to drink, mask, work gloves and a hat. You can borrow tools and rubber boots (up to size 27cm) and get some supplies from the volunteer center. Arrive by 8:30am if you want to be allowed to volunteer, they turn away volunteers most day from around 10am. Numbers of volunteers seem to be limited for safety reasons. All volunteers are asked to evacuate the area if it rains or there are other indications of danger. Asa-minami-ku volunteer center is closest to JR Omachi train station (along the Kabe line), a 20 minute train ride from Hiroshima station. See maps, pictures and updated information on gethiroshima.com. Volunteer & inspire: Join the #DirtyBootsChallenge Volunteer Information Center (Sogo Fukushi Senta) Contact (JP) 09:00-17:00 Tel: 080-2931-3142 or 080-2931-3242 Hiroshima City, Asa-Minami-ku, Nakasu 1-1-38-13

MIYAJIMA

MUST SEE PEACE MEMORIAL PARK AND MUSEUM Most visitors to Hiroshima are here, first and foremost, to learn about the A-bombing and its aftermath, and the Peace Memorial Park and Museum is the place to do that. By no stretch of the imagination can the museum be described as fun, but you should set aside an adequate amount of time (at least an hour) to make your way through the two wings, as well as time to process the experience. You will find hope as well as tragedy here. Hiroshima endured the unendurable and has rebounded. The museum serves, not only to document and preserve the memory of the event and those it affected, but also to promote its appeal for the abolition of nuclear weapons. Hiroshima’s commitment to spreading that message is evident in the nominal ¥50 admission charge.

Go Deeper

The island of Itsukushima - or Miyajima as it is more commonly known - is quite simply, divine. It’s very trees, rocks and sands deemed sacred since times from which only myth and legend remain, Miyajima’s main attraction is Itsukushima Shrine, built over the water in the 12th century so as not to impinge on the island’s sacred soil. All Shinto shrines have a torii gate through which the gods housed within are to be approached. The gate to Itsukushima is an iconic image that has adorned the front of many a guidebook since being designated as one of the nihon sankei, “three great scenic views of Japan”. “Great view” status brings great crowds. However, most visitors stick to the area between the ferry terminal and Itsukushima Shrine. Follow the main route to Itsukushima Shrine and try to catch the great torii gate both in its “floating” state at full tide and at low tide when you can walk right up to it, marvel and feel its bulk. Then, head off and explore the side streets and park trails. Visit the One Thousand Mat Senjyokaku Pavillion and Daishoin Temple, and try to make the trip up to the summit of mythical Mt Misen. Late afternoon, the crowds melt away and just before sunset, lanterns light up and Itsukushima Shrine and the 5 storey pagoda are illuminated. The atmosphere is quite special.

Shukkei-en

tcar

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A delightfully compact reconstruction of a “circular tour style garden” designed by warrior tea master Soko Ueda in 1620. The central lake is populated by koi, turtles and heron. Explore the narrow paths. Monthly cultural events are held here.

“Carp Castle” is a 1958 reconstruction of the original Edo-era castle built by Terumoto Mori in the late 16th century. It houses a mildly interesting museum and has a viewing platform. Despite its pleasant grounds, visitors who have come from Himeji may not be too impressed.

Mt Misen © Mish Vampiro Photography

Torii Gate © Mish Vampiro Photography

e Stre

Walk

SHUKKEI-EN GARDEN

HIROSHIMA CASTLE

A sudden return to the hustle and bustle of the city center can jar the senses and the grounds of the Peace Park provide a buffer, both spacial and emotional. Here, you can sit quietly beneath trees that defied fears that “nothing would grow for 75 years” and which brought hope to the devastated populace. You may be approached by nervous school children on school trips, wishing to ask you a few simple questions in halting English. The contrast of their smiling, happy faces with what you have seen in the museum lifts your heart.

Station

Beaten tracks

Shukkei-en Garden © Mish Vampiro Photography

Senjyokaku Pavilion © Mish Vampiro Photography

12 hour se r u o c l e d o m

Hiroshima Optional Tours offer private tours by friendly and knowledgeable licensed guides. For more details of these and other tours check out HiroshimaTours.info [en]

Riverside Breakfast

• Nagataya • Caffe Ponte • Kanawa Oyster Boat

Stree t

car

• Flex Hotel • Kyobashi • Riverside cafes Streetcar

Peace Park

Walk

Lunch at Peace Park

Boat to Miyajima

GetHiroshima picks

MITAKI TEMPLE

HIROSHIMA CARP

Beautiful and atmospheric at any time of the year. Whether you consider yourself spiritual or not, the dense greenery and flowing water will calm the most harried traveler. Highly recommended, even for those suffering from from Kyoto “temple fatigue”. Mitaki Station is 10min by train from Hiroshima on the Kabe Line, from where it is a 20 minute walk up the hill. Gate closes at 5pm.

You can catch Hiroshima folk at their most relaxed and ebullient at a Carp baseball game. Carp fans are known for their exuberance (and boundless optimism). Baseball fan or not, taking in a game at Mazda Stadium is a memorable experience. See more about our local heroes and how to see a game on page 22.

KAGURA Futabayama hike

Ancient myths and folktales performed in extravagant costumes to frenetic drum rhythms. Kagura evolved from sacred dances performed by priests into a folk art that involves whole communities. Without a car, you have to be quite motivated to access the northern heartland of kagura, but there are performances at Hiroshima Kenmin Bunka Center near the A-bomb Dome at 7pm every Wednesday for ¥1000. http://kagura.tank.jp/ [ja] (See p.17 for more on Kagura)

Futabayama view

OUT ON THE TOWN

Toshogu Shrine

After learning about all that Hiroshima endured, it can be tempting to give in to the urge to hole up in your hotel. Resist that urge and get out into this fun city to eat, drink and, yes - make merry, with its people. Only then, can you get a true and full appreciation of what a special place Hiroshima is.

PEACE PAGODA, FUTABA-YAMA As you come into Hiroshima Station on the shinkansen, you may notice the bulbous, silver Peace Pagoda on top of Mt Futaba. The walk up the mountain, starting at Toshogu Shrine and winding up through a forest under 100 or so red torii gates, is worth the effort and you are rewarded with a commanding view of the city and surrounding islands from the top.

• Torii Gate & Itsukushima Shrine • Daisho-in • Mt Misen • Snacking on Omotesando Shopping Street

Miyajima

Train

Only have one day in Hiroshima? We feel sorry for you as you are going to miss so much! However, if it can’t be helped, here’s one way to “do” Hiroshima in just 12 hours or so. It’s pretty full on and you’ll probably be exhausted when you sink into your train seat to head back to your digs. Sure you don’t want to stay the night?

LAST TRAINS Carp

Photos © JudHiroshima

• Kanawa • Roopali • Sarii-chan Station Dinner

• To Tokyo: NOZOMI: 19:58 / Non-NOZOMI: 18:56 • To Osaka: NOZOMI: 22:13 / Non-NOZOMI: 21:58 • To Fukuoka (Hakata): NOZOMI: 22:50 / Non-NOZOMI: 22:28 Train schedules do change so we highly recommend you double check the above information.

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2014

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NEWS HALFPRICE TO SHIMANE’S “CITY OF WATER” Tired of the crowds on Japan’s well beaten“Golden Route”? Why not get your own glimpses of unfamiliar Japan in one of the region’s hidden gems, the castle town of Matsue? Don’t tell the locals, but prove you’re not Japanese by showing your passport to the bus driver and get the kids price that’s a 50% discount on the normal one way fare making the 3 hour ride only ¥2050. Buses leave Hiroshima Bus Center and Hiroshima Shinkansen Station throughout the day.

S PIERRE, THE MAZE DETECTIVE Pierre, The Maze Detective is a recently published a-maze-ing book illustrated by Hiroshima’s Hirofumi Kamigaki. Founder of Hiroshimabased IC4 Design, Kamigaki, dreams big. He hopes that his latest project, a book will be seen by 6 billion people! Kamigaki, who likes to be known as Hiro (Hero?!) became a freelance designer in 1998 and now works with four staff members out of a third floor office on the hip café street Jizo Dori. Many Hiroshima residents and tourists passing through will have unknowingly seen his company’s work around town. The logo and design of Stick Sweets Factory cafés and Michan Okonomiyaki Honten, the colorful wall mural at Hiroshima Airport and the cute characters of the 2013 Sweets Exposition are all theirs. Hiro’s work has a unique style. Benjamin Le Mar eloquently points out on the IC4 Facebook profile that “(Hiro’s) ability to meticulously craft his unfathomable landscapes of whimsy and humor to thoughtful expressions of design make him and his team of designers a force to be reckoned with.” Their work is often commissioned for local advertising campaigns, magazine

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g n i p hop and websites, and recognition is spreading worldwide. International projects include illustrations for Mercedes and Google and several awards have been won. Hiro will never forget the day when a telephone call came from New York Times Magazine, asking to use the IC4 Infrastructure illustration on their front cover in 2009.

By Emma Sakamiya

There are plans for an English version of Pierre, The Maze Detective, however, the Japanese version makes a beautiful souvenir and appreciation of the work put into the illustrations is plain to see for speakers of any language.

The minute attention to detail in Hiro’s work means that projects are extremely time-consuming and tailoring designs to clients’ needs is a must. While taking on each new challenge with enthusiasm, Hiro’s burning ambition has been to illustrate a picture book. This dream bore fruition when publisher Nagaoshoten approached him just over two years ago. IC4’s intricate designs seemed an obvious choice for use in their proposed maze book. Over two years, Hiro saw the book illustrations as a labor of love and, in addition to regular work, spent almost every waking hour of his free time completing the project. The book, written by local author Chihiro Maruyama (in Japanese), follows maze detective Pierre’s adventures as he traverses towns, mountains and the sea in pursuit of Phantom Thief Mr. X who has stolen the maze stone from the museum and thus changed the normal world to a maze world. It is not specifically a children’s book. All ages can get enjoyment from the challenges set. ‘Advanced players’ can follow the hints in the text to follow a route taken by Mr. X. while younger players may be content to search for hidden treasure boxes and other items in a ‘Where’s Wally?’ type way.

http://ic4design.com/ More images: https://www.behance.net/gallery/ 16338241/PierreTheMAZEDETECTIVE

pecha kucha

TIPS Pecha Kucha Nights (PKN) do something quite remarkable they make presentations fun. The key is the signature PKN format. 20 slides, changing automatically every 20 seconds; No ifs, ums, ers or buts. A worldwide phenomena, PKNs have been held in over 700 cities. Starting, as it did, in Tokyo back in 2003, PKN was a long time coming to Hiroshima. But in the autumn of 2011, former Hiroshima residents Derrick Tran and Koji Sakamoto did just that, hosting two well-attended PKNs at Southern Cross. Unfortunately, the following summer Derrick and Koji announced that work commitments had made it impossible to give future events the attention they need and were looking to pass on the baton. Just when it seemed the Pecha Kucha train had left Hiroshima for good, creative artisan Mendel Jonkers, Florence Smith and Koji Shinoto announced that they would be relaunching the event in early 2013 at The Shack Bar & Grill. The new team made it a priority to try and “share the love” by moving the event to a new venue each time, and all have been well-attended and fun. The “Big Special” at the Blue Live on the Ujina waterfront in May featured professional entertainers who showcased their talents in addition to their 20x20 presentations.

who complain that Hiroshima is a boring place lacking in energy with the challenge that they just haven’t met the right people yet, the people who make Hiroshima what he likes to call “Heroshima”. By making the events as bilingual as possible, Mendel and his team endeavor to give as wide an audience as possible The thing I love about PKN events is that presenters and audience are very much on on the same level. Presenters are generally easy to approach after their talks and, with many past and future presenters in the audience, it’s a great place to meet some very interesting people. In this respect, I personally prefer the more intimate PKN and felt putting presenters on stage at “Big Special”, while making for a great show made it more of a passive experience for viewers.

TIPS FOR PKN SUCCESS • Decide what’s important. Make that your focus. • Start with pen & paper • Tell a story • Aim to inspire and/or entertain PKN isn’t a work event • Go for strong images rather than text • Practice • Don’t sell • Practice • Relax there’s a lot of good will in the room • Practice

This autumn, you have the chance to check out both styles of PKN. PKN 9 is at Hiroshima BEE darts bar on September 7 and another big one to celebrate the 10th PKN Hiroshima is planned for November 29. I’ll be at both, why not join me? If you’d like to find out more about PKN Hiroshima or are interested in taking part check out their Facebook Page or drop them a line.

Presentations so far have ranged from showcasing architectural work (the bread and butter of the original events dreamt up by the Tokyo-based founders of Klein Dytham architecture) to pro-wrestlers throwing each other around the venue while delivering their own take on Hiroshima’s message of peace. PKN Hiroshima has always been about giving Hiroshimabased people a platform to share their passions, whatever they may be. “When you hear people talk with great passion about something they really love, no matter how boring the subject may initially appear, they leave a lifelong impression and really reach your heart” says main organizer Mendel. He answers those

More details https://www.facebook.com/PechaKuchaHiroshima pkn.hiroshima@gmail.com

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2014

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Kono michi ya yuku hito nashi ni aki no kure All along this road not a single soul only autumn evening comes Basho (1694)

Koyo

MIYAJIMA Tens of thousands of people descend on Miyajima during November to enjoy the autumn colors in Momijidani (Maple Valley) and around Daishoin Temple. The red bridge at the entrance to the valley is a favorite spot for a “classic” autumn shot. Further up in the valley the leaves are equally gorgeous, and Shinomiya Shrine looks amazing framed by the golden and crimson leaves. Sometimes the crowds can be overwhelming, but it is surprising how easy it is to find relative calm by hopping off the main path. Those that hike up Mt Misen can be rewarded by some picture postcard views and pockets of splendid solitude. Best viewing: Mid to late November

MITAKI TEMPLE The top spot for enjoying the autumn leaves within the city limits. Beautiful at any time of the year, Mitaki is particularly stunning when the leaves turn. Fallen leaves litter the pathways and lie cradled in the hands of some of the hundreds of statues that silently watch over the verdant grounds. You are unlikely to have the place completely to yourself, but, visit on a weekday, and you may well come close. Don’t leave it too late however, as the hillside temple falls into shadow fairly early in the afternoon. Best viewing: Mid to late November

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How things have changed since Basho’s day. Vermillion, orange, russet, gold the colors of autumn are still spectacular, but on some days, thousands of tourists head out of town to stroll under glorious canopies of maple, poplar, beech and other trees from late October through November. On the busy weekends, the narrow leaf strewn trails fill with large numbers of enthusiastic leaf-watchers, some in their Sunday-best and others seemingly equipped for a day in the Alps. Weekdays are better. Bring a sweater, wear walking shoes if you have them, and don’t forget your camera. Hiroshima JR Station usually has an easy to read information board indicating the state of the leaves each day to help you decide where to go.

SHUKKEIEN GARDEN

TAISHAKUKYO GORGE

YOSHIMIZUEN GARDEN

Very pretty at any time of the year, autumn colors further enhance this garden central enough to pop in for a quiet interlude in a day in the city. Informal tea ceremonies are held daily during the “Momiji Matsuri” at the end of November when there are extended opening hours and the red leaves are illuminated after dark. Best viewing: Mid November to mid December

Taishakukyo is another lovely spot. 15km of trail and natural features that include a 40m high natural limestone arch that straddles the path, but access requires your own transport. 3h 25 min from Hiroshima to Tojo Station by JR Kibi Line OR 2h from Hiroshima Bus Center to Tojo by bus. 20 min from Tojo Station to Taishakukyo. Best viewing: Late October to early November

This lovely private Japanese garden in Kake with beautiful autumn colors only opens the second and third weekends of November. A worthy stop off on the way to Sandankyo Gorge or a destination in its own right. 15 minutes drive from Togouchi interchange on the Chugoku Expressway

GOKURAKUJI TEMPLE SANKEIEN GARDEN Sankei-en doesn’t have the history of Shukkeien in the city center, but this expansive garden located right next to Hiroshima Airport has its own very pretty “maple valley”. Kids enjoy feeding koi carp in the lake here too. Best viewing: Late October to late November

SANDANKYO GORGE Hit this 16km long ravine in the north of the prefecture at the right time and the mix of the various autumn colors is simply gorgeous (see what I did there?). Even out of season, however, this is a lovely trail and well worth a trip for nature lovers. Please note that weather can change quickly up here, and even early snowfalls are possible so it pays to be prepared, however nice the weather may be in the city. Best viewing: Late October to mid November

Gokuraku-ji is a mountaintop temple in Hatsukaichi City originally established in the early 8th century and rebuilt in the 16th century by Mori Motonari. Many of the leaves on trees in the temple precinct and around the nearby lake turn a deep bright red in November and there are good views out over the sea. 30 minute drive Rt 2 up Rt 433 from Hatsukaichi City or a 90min2hr hike from Hatsukaichi JR Station Best viewing: Early to mid November

TSUTSUGA OICHO GIANT GINGKO TREE Many people make the trip out to this one single tree in the grounds of Otoshi Shrine in Akiota City. This is no ordinary tree, however. Said to be over 1000 years old, this gnarled gingko tree is 8m around and almost 50m tall, and at the beginning of November the leaves turn the most incredible shade of yellow and carpet the ground. 5 minutes drive from the Togouchi interchange on the Chugoku expressway, this is another place that can be visited on a (self powered) trip to Sandankyo Gorge. Best viewing: Mid November

BUTTSUJI TEMPLE Buttsuji Temple is the head temple of a branch of Rinzai Zen. The mountain temple complex in Mihara City has a history that goes back over 600 years and today many people study Zen there. The leaves here are absolutely stunning in the autumn and attract many, many people to view them. 40min bus ride from JR Mihara Station to the Buttsu-ji Temple bus stop Best viewing: Early to mid November

OZEKIYAMA KOEN PARK This riverside hillpark, a former northern getaway for Hiroshima’s nobility located just outside the center of Miyoshi City attracts many visitors in the middle of November when the entire mountain blazes red. Best viewing: Mid November

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autumn Festivals

FESTIVAL FOCUS: Kumano Brush Festival 9/23 熊野 The small town of Kumano, tucked in the hills about 18km east of Hiroshima city, has been a center for handmade calligraphy brush or fude production for well over a century. Every year on the national holiday which commemorates the autumn equinox, the town celebrates the brushes which have brought it (some) fame and (considerable) economic fortune. Fude are, of course, the stars of the show. Crowds gather to watch the dramatic painting of a giant canvas with an oversized brush. Brushes whose work is now done, are cremated en masse, their souls released with the billowing smoke. Passers-by stroke the soft bristles of giant brushes suspended above the steep stone staircase to Sakakiyama Shrine where women in costume perform brush dances. The shrine is also host to an impressive autumn ritual in which local men spin a large higan-bune (“equinox boat”) fashioned from bamboo. This boat has been

hauled through the streets of the town before being pulled up the steep steps that lead up to the shrine. After the higan-bune is spun around, excited children crowd the boat to grab sweets cast from deck. Among the stalls selling brushes are those selling the usual grilled and skewered festival fare, and on the stage set up in the school playground middle aged women dance hula and little girls twerk to hip hop. Kumano’s Fude Matsuri has always been one of our favorite local festivals. The people are always welcoming and with plenty to keep the eyes occupied, it is an excellent way to spend the day if in Hiroshima on September 23. The night before the festival a preopening event is held at which kagura performances can be seen.

Hiroshima Brush Museum Sakakiyama Shrine Brush Museum Sakakiyama Shrine

Kumano

KUMANO

Kumano Post Office

Kure

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If you miss the festival, but want to find out more about the brushes made in Kumano, the Fudenosato Kobo Brush Museum in the town center is open every day except Mondays. admission ¥600 for adults and ¥250 for Under 18s. Kumano is 45 minutes by bus from Hiroshima Bus Center and 35 minutes from Kure JR Station. Take a bus bound for Kumano-hagiwara.

Ebisu-kou 胡子大祭 November 18-20 Commonly known as Ebisu-kou or Ebessan, the Ebisu Taisai 胡子大祭 dates back to the early days of the castle town that grew into modern Hiroshima. The chubby, fish-bearing and ever smiling Ebisu is one of Japan’s most popular kami in its huge parthenon of gods. Unsurprising as the guardian deity of fishermen, Ebisu is the kami of good fortune in both the figurative and literal sense. The festival centers on Ebisu Shrine which is tucked inobtrusively between the LABI and Mitsukoshi department stores in the covered Ebisu-dori arcade (map p.26 [C-3]). A huge wooden barrel sits in front, into which people throw money, mostly loose change, but you’ll always spot some folding money in there too. Some say that you can get a good idea of how the local economy is doing by taking a quick look at the number of 10,000 yen bills. Indeed, it is local business owners that take Ebisu-kou most seriously. Stalls lining the streets do a brisk trade in brightly decorated rakes called komazarae which business people hope that, after receiving the appropriate blessing at the shrine, will help them rake in profit. They come in all sizes, from small enough to attach to a car mirror to ones almost as long as their purchasers are tall. You will, of course, find all the usual festival stalls lining the streets around the shrine and along the main Chuodori Street selling food, drinks and enticing kids with colorful games. Chuo-dori is closed to traffic one night when kagura performances are held on an openair stage.

Shirakami-san 白神さんの秋祭り October 28-29 Shirakami Shrine, located right downtown next to the ANA Crowne Plaza Hotel on Peace Boulevard (map p.26 [B-3]) at a busy intersection, is one of the city’s oldest shrines. It is thought that the white paper referred to in its name was used to alert boats of the outcrop of rocks that stood where the shrine is today before land reclamation work began to extend the city southwards. The shrine’s annual autumn festival is held on the nights of October 28 and 29. The shrine buzzes with activity as locals and people on their way home from work drop in to pay their respects. The street is lined with festival stalls and the Sakabara Kagura Troupe perform on a makeshift stage.

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autumn Festivals

|| 9/6-7 Sankeien Moon Viewing, 18:15-20:30 || 9/8 Shukkeien Garden Moon Viewing Tea Ceremony, 15:00-19:30 || 9/12-14 Miyajima Candle Festival Mantoue, Daishoin Temple, 18:00-21:00 || 9/13 Isonomiya-hachiman-jinja Shrine Festival, Takehara, 15:00-21:00 || 9/15 Respect for the aged Tea Ceremony, Shukkeien Garden, 10:00 || 9/20 The 39th Toyohira Kagura, ToyohiraWing, Toyohira Dongrimura, Kitahiroshima, 17:10|| 9/22 (18:00-) 23 (10:00-17:00) Kumano Brush Festival, Sakakiyama- jinja Shrine, Kumano || 10/4 The 66th Geiseki Kagura, Chiyoda General Gymnasium, Kitahiroshima, 12:00|| 10/4-5 Fukuda Shishimai Lion Dance Festival, Fukuda-cho, Takehara, 14:30|| 10/11 Hiroshima Toshogu Shrine Children's Kagura & Shishimai Lion Dance, 13:00-18:00 || 10/19 (10:00, 12:30, 14:00) Traditional Japanese Music Concert, Shukkeien Garden || 10/19 Korean Envoy reenactment Parade, Sannose, Shimokamagari Island, 10:45|| 10/25 (18:00-) 26 (10:00-) Ono Festival, Ogashira Shrine (taiko/ kagura on Eve of the festival), Hatsukaichi || 10/25-26 Takehara bamboo candles, Honmachi, Takehara, 17:00-21:00 || 10/27 Sandankyo Momiji Festival, Akiota-cho, 11:00-16:00 || 10/28-29 Shirakami-san, Shirakamisha Shrine, Hirohima || 11/1 The 50th Oasa Kagura Festiva, Oasa Junior High school Gymnasum, Kitahiroshima, 16:00|| 11/1 (18:00-) 11/2 (11:00-) 11/3 (7:30-18:30) Onomichi Betcha Matsuri, Ikkyu-jinja Shrine, Onomichi || 11/2 Tojo “Otoori” Edo Period Procession, Tojo-cho, Shobara, 12:00|| 11/3 Daiganji Firewalking Festival, Daiganji Temple, Miyajima, 13:00|| 11/3 Chrysanthemum Viewing Tea Ceremony, Shukkeien Garden, 9:30|| 11/8-9 Grand Inoko Festival, Fukuromachi Park || 11/9 Maple viewing tea ceremony, Shukkeien Garden, 10:00|| 11/11-16 Chrysanthemum Exhibition, Shukkeien Garden, 9:00-17:00 || 11/15 Daishoin Firewalking, Daishoin Temple, Miyajima, 11:00|| 11/15 & 30 Jinseki Kogen Kagura Festival, Koshinji Temple, Jinsekikogen-cho, 13:00|| 11/15-16 Toyohira Soba Festival, Michi no Eki Toyohira Dongurimura, Kitahiroshima, 10:00-15:00 || 11/16-30 Daishoin Momiji Matsuri, Daishoin Temple, Miyajima, 8:00-17:00 || 11/18-20 Ebisukou, Chuo-dori Street, Alice Garden and so || 11/23 Tibetan Goma Fire Ritual, Daishoin Temple, Miyajima, 13:00Find more about these events and more at www.gethiroshima.com/events

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1. Daiganji Firewalking Festival, 2. Onomichi Betcha Festival, 3. Takehara Bamboo Candles, 4. Grand Inoko Festival

Kagura

The hidden gem of Japanese theater

Going to see traditional Japanese theater such as kabuki, bunraku and noh is all very well, but for the uninitiated it can often be something to be endured as much as enjoyed. Kagura, however, is different. Ironically, some of the factors that have kept kagura on the fringes of Japan’s cultural radar, notably the tendency for performances to be held on makeshift stages rather than in permanent theaters and performed by amateur troupes, also enhance its accessibility. Kagura is a diverse art form with a variety of performance styles. Kagura performed in northern Hiroshima and the Iwami region of Shimane is characterized by energetic dances performed in elaborate (and heavy) costumes, accompanied by stirring rhythms. Kagura festivals can last many hours and go long into the night. Most of the tales performed come from the same fairly narrow canon of legendary tales involving demons, monsters and heroes portrayed in Japan’s other, now more reified theatrical forms. While there is a good chance you won’t really get what’s going on most of time, exciting fight scenes, dry ice, fireworks and lightning fast costume changes should keep you entertained. It doesn’t hurt that it’s perfectly acceptable

Wednesday Night Kagura Different troupes perform two kagura pieces every Wednesday night on stage at Hiroshima Kenmin Bunka Center (Rijo Kaikan, map p.26 [A-3]). Admission is only ¥1000 and basic translated synopses of the pieces to be performed available in English. Stick around until the end to get up on stage and try on some of the costumes and masks and get some great souvenir photos. Doors open at 18:30, the first of two shows (separated by a short interval) starts at 19:00 and things wrap up at 20:45.

at most shows to eat snacks washed down with beer, sake or shochu. Kagura troupes were long tied to Shinto shrines. Today, however, they are generally independent and as likely to perform in a public hall or shopping mall as at a shrine festival. In Midori in Akitakata (about 1 hour from Hiroshima City) there is even a “Kagura Dome” where over 20 troupes take turns in performing at a facility which also has restaurants, a hot spring and accommodation. The art form is going through something of a resurgence in popularity and all the local troupes have loyal followings. Vocal shows of appreciation of favorite actors and particularly impressive moves adds to the atmosphere. For me, kagura is best enjoyed outside, and better yet, on a stage set up in the grounds of a shrine, sat among avid fans. The most authentic experiences are at small rural festivals, though these can be hard to find. However, during autumn, there are several opportunities to enjoy kagura at shrine festivals in and near Hiroshima city center.

Kagura at Shrine Festivals 9/13 Nihyakuhatsuka Honen Shimin-sai, Hatsukaichi Tenmangu Shrine, 14:00-17:00 10/13 Kannon-jinja Shrine Autumn Festival, Saeki-ku, 18:00 10/18 Waseda-jinja Shrine Autumun Festival, Ushita, 18:30 10/18 (18:00)-19 (17:00) Sorasaya Inari-jinja Shrine Autumn Festival, Honkawa map p.26 [A-2] 10/19 Misasa-jinja Shrine Autumn Festival 10/20 Gokoku-jinja Shrine Autumn Festival 10/25 Ogashira-jinja Shrine Reisai Festival, Ono Hatsukaichi, 18:00 10/28-29 Shirakamisan Autumn Festival, Peace Boulevard, 19:00-21:30 11/18-20 Ebisu-kou Festival, Chuodori St (see gethiroshima.com) map p.26 [C-3]

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hiking sandan-kyo

Left: Kurobushi Right: 1. Tatsu-no-kuchi 2. path 3. Saru Tobi 4. path 5. Sandanki

The mouth of this beautiful gorge is only an 80 minute bus ride from the city center, but once between its sheer cliffs, surrounded by verdant vegetation and hearing the rush of the crystal clear water over rocks itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to grasp that very few people had ever penetrated Sandankyo Gorge until a little over a century ago. What is more difficult to understand is why, other than for a few short weeks between late October and early November when large numbers of autumn leaf watchers make the trip, Sandankyo is rarely overrun. Sandankyo makes for a wonderful hike. The nature of the out and back trail (much of it surfaced with rough concrete) makes it very difficult to get lost and, although it does undulate, is very doable for anyone of reasonable fitness. The prime goal for many is Sandandaki - the three step waterfall for which the gorge is named - which makes the hike a full day commitment. However, many of the trailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highlights can be seen on a walk as far as Kurobuchi (about 50min each way). There are a few small shops (which serve some food and will hold onto baggage for a small fee) and a bathroom (not the only one, but certainly the nicest on the trail) at the entrance to the gorge where the bus drops you off. Here, nonguests can also use the worn, but nonetheless charming, Sandankyo Hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hot spring bath before taking the bus back to the city.

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Hijiriko Lake 聖湖

1.1km

0.5km

Ryumon Torrent 龍門

Middaki Falls 三ツ滝

Sandandaki (Three-step falls) 30m waterfall that gives the gorge its name. Makes for a wonderful backdrop to a souvenir photo. Absolutely gorgeous when the trees are sporting their autumn colors. It’s about a 2.5hr walk from the gorge entrance to here.

2.7km

Nidandaki (Two-step Falls) 15m waterfall. The second step collapsed back under the weight of a torrential downpour in 1988. Only accessible by the boat from Sarutobi.

1.5km WC

1.5km

WC WC

Sarutobi (Monkey Jump)

Deaibashi

A pilot pulls a small boat between 20m high rocks that stand only 2m apart at some points to view Nidandaki falls (¥400 round trip).

→ Road to Mt Shinnyu (4km) WC

3.3km

2 2.2km

Tatsu no kuchi (Dragon Mouth Torrent) 竜の口 Shimaidaki Falls (Sister Falls) 姉妹滝

0.5km

Kurobushi (Black Abyss) About 1 hour walk from the gorge entrance. Continue on foot or ring the bell to call the boat to get a great look at the cliff face (¥300 one way/¥500 return). A tea house sells noodles, rice balls and drinks.

Akadaki (Red Falls) 赤滝

Nagabuchi 長淵 WC

Entrance Sandankyo Hotel

Time guide • Entrance to Kurobushi 50min one way (3.7km) • Entrance to Sandandaki via Sarutobi & Nidandaki 5hrs round trip (approx 19km) • If you manage to catch one of the buses that run between the gorge entrance and the parking near Deaibashi it should take about 2hrs to loop Sandandaki,Sarutobi, Nidandaki and back. • The whole 12km trail from gorge entrance to Hijiriko Lake can take up to 5hrs one way. Access Buses to Sandankyo leave from Hiroshima Bus Center (Platform #7). Express buses (¥1440 one way) take about 80min while local buses (¥1230 one way) take well over 2hrs. The 08:18 express bus arrives at the gorge at 09:33 and the 15:00 departure from Sandankyo will get you back at 16:20 (apart from that local buses leave at 15:30, 16:30 and 17:55). For an early start the 06:10 local bus from Hiroshima will get you to the gorge just before 08:30. 19:10 is the last departure from Sandankyo taking you as far as Kabe JR Station from where local trains depart for Hiroshima.

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Y ou h a v e n' t d o ne h iro sh im a if you h a v e n' t d o ne

Hiroshima Okonomiyaki!

konomiyaki, a savory pancake cooked on an iron hotplate, containing egg, chopped vegetables,

meat and/or seafood is found all over Japan. In Hiroshima, this dish is beefed up by adding noodles and lots of veggies. Rather than mixing all the ingredients together, as in the more common Kansai or Osaka style, here in Hiroshima they are layered. The whole thing is topped with a savory-sweet sauce.

Where to eat

Locals are very proud of their contribution to Japanese cuisine, and regional rivalry, while good natured, is strong. Be prepared to be quizzed about whether you prefer your okonomiyaki Hiroshima or Kansai style. Sitting shoulder to shoulder at the counter of a small okonomiyaki joint, especially if you give the local lingo a try, is one of the best places for the outsider to connect with Hiroshima folk. Okonomiyaki is often described as “Japanese pizza”. The name literally means “cook it how you like it”, and you select toppings to add to the standard ingredients to create your personal favorite version of the dish. That’s where the analogy ends however, as the finished dish, while round and flat(ish), tastes nothing like pizza. Sometimes described as Hiroshima’s “soul food”, okonomiyaki began to be widely eaten in the years during and after the war when rice was in short supply, and people added extra ingredients to simple wheat pancakes and street stalls selling okonomiyaki sprang

O F T H TO P E TO P PI 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Extra ne gi chop ped gre en onio Cheese ns Mochi ri

ce cake ried dri ed squid Shiso pe rilla lea f Ikaten F

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up all over the city. Today, there are said to be about 2000 okonomiyaki shops, and a visit to at least one of them is likely to be at the top of any Japanese tourist’s list of things to do in Hiroshima. While it is fun to mix up your ingredients and cook them on your own hot plate, which is possible at many restaurants serving Kansai style okonomiyaki, here in Hiroshima, the cooking is the preserve of the professional chef, and watching the process right before your eyes is like watching a live cooking show.

NGS

With so many places to choose from, where is one to start? Micchan is probably the most famous, and there are several “Micchan” shops in the city center run by various branches of the family. They often have lines of customers outside waiting for their turn at the grill, which is generally a good sign. Very popular with domestic and oversees tourists is Okonomi-mura (Okonomi Village) which houses 27 little stalls on 3 floors. Okonomiyaki-kyowakyoku Hiroshima-mura (Okonomiyaki Republic) has another 6, and Ekimae Hiroshima Okonomi-hiroba (on the south side of Hiroshima Station) has 13 more. This is just the tip of the okonomi iceberg, however. A fun way to make your choice is to leave it up to serendipity and ask a local. Every Hiroshima-ite has their own favorite and most will view it as a matter of pride to share them with newcomers.

How to order All Hiroshima okonomiyaki starts with the basic nikutama, consisting of pork, eggs, cabbage between two thin crepes. Your first choice is which kind of noodles to add - thin soba noodles or thicker udon noodles. State your preference by asking for “niku-tama-soba” or “niku-tama-udon”. If you are really hungry you can opt for a double helping of noodles. Next, choose any additional “toppings”. These are as likely to go inside as they are to go on top and usually include extra green negi onions, seafood, mochi rice cake, cheese, korean kimchee, shiso perilla leaf, natto

and, sometimes, even jalapeno peppers. In winter, it is also common to see local oysters offered as a topping.

Vegetarians While the eggs rule it out for vegans, at first glance okonomiyaki appears to be promising option for hungry vegetarians. Chef’s are generally happy to leave out the pork slices if you ask for niku-nashi (without meat), but most places do use lard and a kind of grease that includes pork stock. Shaved dried fish flakes or dried squid pieces are also likely to find their way into your meal. Strict vegetarians should head to Nagataya next at the very end of the Hondori shopping arcade near to the A-bomb Dome; here they have a good appreciation of vegetarianism and are happy to accommodate vegetarian customers.

How to eat Okonomiyaki is traditionally eaten hot (very hot) off the teppan grill with a metal spatula (hera). The inexperienced diner who takes up the challenge may find their okonomiyaki is dried to a crisp by the time they are finished. It is by no means rude to ask for a small plate and chopsticks; try for a laugh by saying nekojita nanode o-sara to o-hashi o kudasai (I have a cat’s tongue, so please give me a plate and chopsticks). It isn’t necessarily a problem to linger at the counter and have some drinks, but be aware of your surroundings. If it is busy and people are waiting to eat, you will be expected to vacate your seats soon after you are done eating.

Aonori (dried seaweed)

Okonomiyaki sauce

Eggs

Soba or udon noodles

A walk on the wild “sides” Most okonomiyaki shops will have a range of side dishes that can be whipped up on the teppan. You can play it safe and go for something like asparagus wrapped in bacon (bekon no aspara maki), or go for something a little more adventurous.

Sliced pork

Kaki Oysters Uni horen Sea urchin grilled with spinach Shirako Fish sperm Horumon-yaki Grilled beef or pork offal Takowasa Chopped raw octopus marinated in wasabi Ika no Shiokara Fermented salty raw squid meat and guts (great with sake or shochu) Ika-natto Slimy natto fermented soy beans with raw egg and squid topped with green onions and wasabi

Bean sprouts

Negi green onions

Mokuren Okonomiyaki & Teppanyaki Traditional & creative okonomiyaki on 6F of the Full Focus Bldg in front of Hiroshima Stn. Local oysters & sake. Ice cold draft beer. Left out of the elevator, look for the pink counter on the left near the back. 10:00-23:00 (L.O. 22:30) 082-568-7850 map p.27 [D-2] 14

Tempura crisps

Nagataya Great okonomiyaki and plenty of space to sit, a stone’s throw away from Peace Park. Excellent understanding of vegetarian needs.

Chopped cabbage

Mon-Fri 11:00-20:30 (L.O.), Sat 11:00-21:00 (L.O.), Sun, hols 10:30-20:30 082-247-0787 map p.26 [A-3] 15

Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki Affable, soccer-loving okonomiyaki-ist serving Hiroshima’s favorite dish and drinks near Hiroshima Station. 11:30-14:30, 17:00-23:00 Closed Saturdays 082-236-7303 map p.27 [D-3] 27

This is a pretty standard okonomiyaki, but most shops will have their own recipe with different ingredients and combinations.

Dried fish powder

Batter

SPORT

carp & san frecce Words and photos by Tim Buthod

One of the greatest spectacles in Hiroshima is a baseball game at Mazda Zoom-Zoom Stadium. Carp fans go all out for their team. They arrive armed with caps, clappers and balloons, and then they go wild, singing, chanting and dancing for the better part of three hours. The stadium is conveniently located just ten minutes east of Hiroshima station. If the Carp are at home while you are in town, it’s an experience not to be missed. In this issue Tim Buthod explains how you don’t have to actually be in the stadium to enjoy the atmosphere and make friends.

TAILGATING JAPANESE STYLE Since Japanese ballparks are not surrounded by massive parking lots the way parks in North America are, you might think tailgating before a game would be impossible. But Japanese ingenuity has proven that you don't need a pickup truck to have a few cold beers in the sun before a ballgame. Hidden in the alleys between Hiroshima station and Mazda Stadium is Yukitomo Liquors, a tiny momand-pop shop that explodes into a makeshift beer garden on game days. Until the stadium was built five years ago, Yukitomo was just a struggling neighborhood shop, the kind that have been disappearing in recent decades as convenience stores flooded the landscape. Now it is a minor landmark, featured several times on local TV and attracting Hiroshima fans and out-oftowners alike. According to owner Shoso Yukitomo, the two keys were low prices and a parking lot. Business picked up with the arrival of the new stadium, but the shop was still tucked away off the beaten track. People suggested to Yukitomo that he could do more business if he offered a place to drink as well as simply selling drinks. Fortunately the family also owned the parking lot across the street. All it took was a few picnic tables, beer crates and beach umbrellas, and Yukitomo had a beer garden. By keeping facilities modest, he is able to keep prices low. A 350ml can of beer, which would cost about ¥225 at the convenience store around the corner goes for ¥198 on game days at Yukitomo. The real reason the lot is packed on game days, is not the small discount on beer. It's the lively atmosphere of the fans and the owner himself. A Carp fan since they were founded in 1950, he is only too eager to show his

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customers his collection of home run balls from the old, old stadium where the Carp played back then, not to mention autographs of stars from the Carp's glory days in the 1970s and 80s.

Carp Home Game Schedule Carp fans have responded, and the place is buzzing on game days, especially when the Tigers are in town. Yukitomo's son lived in Osaka, so he makes the gesture of adding Tigers goods to all of the Carp paraphernalia decorating the tiny space. Even if you don't like baseball or beer, this shop is worth a detour, a flash of local color that you could never find in any museum. Asked about the Carp's prospects this year, he said, "We'll win it all, won't we?" Yukimoto Liquors 行友酒店 2-4-26 Nishikaniya, Minami-ku, 732-0804 Hiroshima Google map: http://goo.gl/maps/pTrlH

EXCITING NEWS! The Carp are one of six teams in the Central League, one of two leagues in Japan. At the end of the regular season, the top three teams in each league advance to the the Climax Series to determine which team goes on to the Japan Series. At this writing the carp are in third place, which would give them the last playoff spot, but they only trail the first-place Giants by two games. Anything can happen. The key is the higher-ranked team plays all its games at home. Last year the Carp finished third, then upset the second-place Tigers in Osaka before falling in a heartbreaking sweep to the Giants in Tokyo. Hiroshima fans are looking forward to a better result this time around. The Climax Series usually opens in early to mid-October.

All games at Mazda “Zoom Zoom Stadium” starting at 18:00 unless otherwise stated Sept 9, 10, 11 vs Chunichi Dragons Sept15, 16, 17 vs Yomiuri Giants Sept 19, 20 (14:00 start), 21 (13:00 start) vs Yokohama Baystars Ticket info in English at http://www.gethiroshima.com/carpticketguide/

Hiroshima’s pro football team also have a passionate following. They are not known for the most exciting play, but they are two-time defending J League champions. Catch them at Edion Stadium, a 35 minute ride (¥480) out of town on the Astram Line from Hondori Station.

Sanfrecce Home Games Sept 3 vs Urawa Reds (Yamazaki Nabisco Cup) 19:00 Sept 13 vs Gamba Osaka 19:00 Sept 20 vs Albirex Niigata 19:00 Sept 27 vs Vissel Kobe 15:30 Oct 18 vs Nagoya Grampus 16:00 Nov 2 vs Omiya Ardija 16:00 Dec 6 vs Vegalta Sendai 15:30

Pullout Guide A language

B CITY CENTER MAP

C TOKAICHI NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE D NIGHTLIFE MAP

E getting around HIROSHIMA

←Iwakuni

UJINA

←Kyushu

NINOSHIMA

Takehara→ Onomichi→ Osaka→

KURE

MIYAJIMA ETAJIMA

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A language DIRECTIONS Where’s ...? ...wa doko desu ka? ...はどこですか? straight massugu 真直ぐ right migi 右 left hidari 左 far tooi 遠い near chikai 近い

1 2 3 4 5

ichi 一 ni 二 san 三 shi (yon) 四 go 五

6 roku 六 7 shichi (nana) 七 8 hachi 八 9 kyu 九 10 ju 十

50 goju 五十 100 hyaku 百 1,000 sen 千 10,000 ichi-man 一万

turn magatte 曲がって

Yen en 円・￥

AROUND TOWN

EATING & DRINKING

Castle shiro 城 (Buddhist) Temple o-tera お寺 (Shinto) Shrine jinja 神社 Museum myuujiamu ミュージアム Ferry ferii フェリー Train densha 電車 Bus basu バス Taxi takushii タクシー Street car / tram shiden 市電 Bicycle jitensha 自転車 I’m afraid I’m in a hurry sumimasen ga, jikan ga nai'n desu すみませんが、時間がないんです。

(To call the waiter / waitress) sumimasen! すみません！ We’ll start with a draft beer toriaezu nama biiru kudasai とりあえず生ビール下さい One beer nama biiru o hitotsu 生ビールを一つ Two beers nama biiru o futatsu 生ビールを二つ Three beers nama biiru o mittsu 生ビールを三つ Four beers nama biiru o yottsu 生ビールを四つ Can you give me some water, please? o-mizu wo moratte mo ii desu ka? お水をもらってもいいですか I’ll have another one mou ippai もういっぱい / Cheers! kampai! 乾杯！

SHOPPING Do you have…? … ga arimasu ka? ..がありますか？ Please kudasai ください Please (do me this favor) onegaishimasu お願いします Thank you arigato ありがとう How much is this? kore wa ikura desu ka? これはいくらですか？ Do you accept credit cards? kurejito kaado o tsukaemasu ka? クレジットカードを使えますか? This one please Kore ni shimasu これにします。 What's the most popular (thing) here? ichiban ninkina mono wa nan desu ka? 一番人気な物は何ですか Pocket Warmer kairo カイロ Souvenir omiyage おみやげ

24\

What do you recommend? osusume wa nan desu ka? おすすめはなんですか？ I can’t eat … … o taberemasen ...を食べれません。 That’s really delicious! sugoku oishii (Hiroshima dialect: bari umai!) すごくおいしい！ I can’t eat 〜. 〜 taberu-koto ga dekimasen ○○たべることが、できません。 Listing the things (below) you can’t eat. Crossing your hands in the shape of an 'X' helps communicate more clearly that it’s a no-go. wheat 小麦 (komugi) / meat 肉 (niku) pork 豚肉 (buta-niku) / nuts ナッツ (nattsu) / fish 魚(sakana) / eggs 卵 (tamago) / allergy アレルギー (allelugi) / seafood 海産物 (kaisanbutsu) / dairy products 乳製品 (nyuseihin) / soy 大豆 (daizu) What's the most popular (food) here? ichiban ninkina tabemono wa nan desu ka 一番人気な食べ物は何ですか Do you have any seasonal specialties? kisetsu no ryouri arimasu ka? 季節の料理ありますか

List of places CULTURE

22 23 24

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

A-Bomb Dome - Map B [A-3] Children’s museum - Map B [A-2] Cinetwin Hondori - Map B [B-3] Former Bank of Japan - Map B [B-3] Gallery G - Map B [C-2] Hatchoza Cinema - Map B [C-3] Hiroshima City International House - Map B [E-3] Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art Map B [D-4] Hiroshima City Tourist Information - Map B [A-3] Hiroshima International Center - Map B [B-4] Hiroshima Museum of Art - Map B [B-2] Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum - Map B [A-3] Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum - Map B [C-2] International Exchange Lounge - Map B [A-3] Salon Cinema 1/2 - Map B [B-4] Shimizu Gekijo - Map B [E-3] Shukkeien Garden - Map B [C-2]

25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32

NIGHTLIFE

1 2 3 4 5 7 8 9 10

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Dormy Inn - Map B [B-4] Hana Hostel - Map B [E-3] Hotel Flex - Map B [D-2] Ikawa Ryokan - Map C J-Hoppers Hiroshima - Map C K’s House - Map B [D-3] Reino Inn Peace Park Hiroshima - Map B [A-4] Washington Hotel - Map B [C-3]

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

RESTAUR ANT & CAFES

45bis “Awa“ - Map B [B-3] Barcos - Map B [C-4] Bar Edge - Map B [C-4] Bar Swallowtail (Yagenbori) - Map B [C-3] Bon Voyage - Map B [C-4] Cafe Spice - Map B [C-3] Centre Point - Map B [C-3] Enjoint Bar Cover - Map B [C-4] Kemby’s - Map B [A-3] Koba - Map B [B-3] La Luna - Map B [C-3] Lime Cay - Map B [C-3] Mac - Map B [C-3] Mambos - Map B [C-4] Molly Malone’s - Map B [C-3] Mugen ∞ 5610 - Map B [C-3] New King - Map B [C-4] Southern Cross - Map B [B-3] The Shack Bar and Grill - Map B [B-3] Tropical Bar Revolución - Map B [C-3]

SHOPPING 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

45 quarante-cinq -Map B [B-3] Artcafe ELK - Map B [A-3] Cafe Cinnamon - Map C Caffe Ponte - Map B [A-3] Chamonix Mont Blanc - Map B [C-3] Choi Choi Ya - Map B [C-4] Cusco Cafe - Map B [C-2] Galley - Map B [B-3] Graffity Mexican Diner - Map B [B-3] Kanak - Map B [B-3] Kanawa ASSE - Map B [E-2] Kanawa Kaki Meian - Map B [E-2] Kanawa Oyster Boat - Map B [A-4] Mokuren Okonomiyaki & Teppanyaki - Map B [D-2] Nagataya Okonomiyaki - Map B [A-3] Namaste Hiroshima Station - Map B [E-2] Ninnikuya Manao - Map B [B-3] Organ-za - Map C Otis! - Map B [A-4] Pasta La Vista - Map B [A-3] Pimiento - Map B [C-3]

INTERNE T

1 2 3 4 5

IACE Travel - Map B [B-3] Little Twitter - Map B [B-3] Outsider Book Nook / Global Lounge - Map B [B-3] Travel With - Map B [C-3] Yamatoya - Map B [C-3]

Global Lounge - Map B [B-3]

JUNKISSA

1 2 5

ACCOMODATION

Plus Minus - Map B [C-4] Porta Porte - Map B [B-3] Robatayaki Jindaiko - Map B [C-3] Rojiura Teppan Kotaro - Map B [C-4] Roopali - Map B [E-2] Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki - Map B [D-3] Sprout - Map B [A-2] Tinto - Map B [B-3] Tokaichi Apartment - Map C Warung Matahari - Map B [B-4] Zucchini: bar and cucina - Map B [A-3]

Fuji - Map C Nakamura-ya - Map C Chamonix Mont Blanc - - Map B [C-3]

WAGASHI

Miyoshino - Map B [C-2]

EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS

• Police 110 • Fire and Ambulance 119 • 24 Hour Hiroshima Hospital Information in English Freedial 0120-169912 • 24h Emergency pediatric hospital (Funairi Byoin) 082-232-6195 • Multilingual Interpreting Service (Trio-phone) 082-247-9715 09:00-19:00 (April-September) 09:00-18:00 (October-March) • TELL English counseling service 03-5774-0992 (09:00-23:00) • Resident Consultation & Interpreting Service 082-241-5010 • Immigration Information Center 0570-013-904 • Human Rights Counseling Center for Foreign Citizens 082-228-5792

HE ALTH & BE AUT Y

1 2 3 4 5

Cleo Hair International - Map B [B-2] Family Pool - Map B [A-2] (Open July - August) Green Arena Gym & Pool - Map B [A-2] Laff Hair Design - Map B [A-3] Roots - Map B [B-4]

Map B: p.26-27 Map C: p. 28 Map D: p.29

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2014

/25

YOKAGAWASHINMACHI

isa

B City center map Yokogawa-1chome

dori ashi

32 4 15 2

OTEMACHI

Sun Mall

OTEMACHI

Hiroshima Bank

Hondori

KAMIYACHO 1 3

PEACE PARKSumitomo Mitsui Hondori Bank

Ho nk bas awa hi

Shukkeien-mae

Legal Administration Office

Shukkeien

Jona

n-do

Tennis courts

Jogakuin

Jogakuin Junior H High School Junior Jogakuin-mae High School H Jogakuin High School KAM

KYUGUCHIMON PARK

Kencho-mae

shim

Haku

u oyas Mot shi ba

Mizuho Bank

Ho nka w basRijo hi a Kaikan

DOBASHICHO

HONKAWA PARK

u oyas Mot shi ba

Kamiya-cho HONKAWA PARK Nishi

KOAMICHO

SOGO

u-o

Dobashi

SHU

shim

a) Ky

u-o

a) aw

tag

ENOMACHI PARK Tenm SAKAIMACHI bash aHonkawa i Primary Koami-cho School Hirod en Tenm a HO bashi

Honkawa Genbaku Dome-mae Primary Hiroshima School Naka HONKAWACHO Post Office

NEKOYACHO

GARD

Chuo N Police Station Chokakuji KYUGUCHIMON YMCA Temple Hiroshima H Kencho-mae Nobor Prefectural Prefectural PARK 7 Chuo Naka Prim Office Office Post Office Police Station Sch Chokakuji East Office (Kencho) Momiji SOGO YMCA Temple Bank H Noborimachi Prefectural Prefectural TEPPOCHO Kamiya-cho HATCHOBORI Primary Office Office Kamiya-cho Higashi School East Office 1 Momiji (Kencho) Nishi Memoria Mizuho NOBORICH Cathedra Bank Bank Rijo Tate-machi Hiroshima for World Pe NOBORIMAC TEPPOCHO Kamiya-cho Kaikan Bank Sun HATCHOBORI PARK Tokyu Higashi Mall KAMIYACHO Bus Center (3F)

Genbaku Dome-mae

Bus 1 Center (3F)

ashi

tag

Aioib

Immigration Office SHUKKEIEN

ashi

KAMIHATCHOBORI

Hiroshima Municipal Hospital Jogakuin-mae

H Hiroshima Municipal Hospital

H Aioib

Teishin

a-do

i-dor mach Tera

Honkawa-cho

Detention Center

Immigration Office

HANOVER PARK

HANOVER PARK HONKAWACHO

ENOMACHI Honkawa-cho

Cinematographic and Audio-visual Jo nanLibrary do Tennis courts

Tokaichi-machi

Hospital Katei Saibansho-mae

hind o Gion S

Cinematographic and Audio-visual Library

kiw

Hakushima

Detention Center

Hiroshima Castle

Legal Administration Office

TOKAICHIMACHI

To Hakushima Teishin Primary School Hospital

OTEMACHI PARK 1 H

dori

NISHITOKAICHIMACHI

dor

Outdoor Family Pool Open July-August

SORAZAYA PARK

sen

Gokoku-jinja Shrine

Tera-machi

Outdoor 2 Family Pool Open July-August

HIGASHI HAKUSHIMACHO

oku Hakushima -

KAMIHATCHOBORI

Sorazayabashi

Rijo-

HIROSEMACHI

HONKAWACHO

Joh

Johoku

Motomachi Senior High School

Gokoku-jinja Shrine

Hirose Primary School

shi

Hakushima Primary School

ink

NISHI HAKUSHIMACHO

CHUO PARK

MACHI

HIGASHI Sa n HAKUSHIMACHO yo Sh

-do

Motomachi Primary School

Nakahiro Sora ohashizayabashi

NAKAMACHI

ine

oku

Hiroshima Castle

CHUO PARK

-dori

SORAZAYA PARK

Joh

in L

Gion S

Te nm

Jonan

MOTOMACHI

Motomachi Primary School

TERAMACHI HIROSE KITAMACHI HIROSEKITA PARK

Motomachi Senior High School

MOTOMACHI

Betsuin-mae

MACHI

hind o

aw a

AMACHI

Sh Yoko in g aw bashi a

Nakahiro Junior High School

Johoku

a-do

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Sumitomo Mitsui Tate-machi Bank

TATEMACHI

Mitsubishi Tokyo Hondo Tokyu ri (c UFJ Bank 4FAio ove Hands

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NOBORIMACHI Mitsukoshi HASHIM PARK Ebis Labi u-do ri Hatchobori EBISUCHOHASHIMOT

) shadori Fukuya 6 Hiroshima 18 Information

HORIKAWACHO

awa

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Ebisu-cho B utsu H dan H -dor Mitsukoshi 17 Former ALICE i SHINTENCHI Plaza Kanayama Bank of EbFUKUROMACHI Labi GARDEN Mitsubishi Tokyo Hondo is KA u r Japan i 3 Fukuromachi dori (cov 5 UFJ Bank 4F 10 Don Hirosh FUKUROMACHI eFukuro-machi Momiji EBISUCHO red YAGENBORI Quijotte SHINTENCHI Primary arca PARK HONDORI Ban OTEMACHI 20 PARK Bank FUNAIRIMACHI PEACE PARK de) School 5 19 H PARK 1 HORIKAWACHO 4 H H 24 H H KAWARAMACHI NAKAMACHI B Heiw PARCO utsu HiroshimaShirakami 1 1 14 Tsuchiya a-oh dan Shrine a Information s Hospital hi dori Crystal 15 Former ALICE SHINTENCHI Plaza 9 YAYOIC Plaza 6 NAKAJIMACHO 12 8 H MIKAWACHO NAGAREKAWACHO H 4 Bank of FUKUROMACHI GARDEN H 9 KANAYAMACHO Japan 2 Enryuji Funairi-machi Don Fukuromachi FUKUROMACHI 12 Heiw Temple Fukuro-machi NISHIHIRATSU YAGENBORI SHINTENCHI Quijotte Primary Bunka a-o(Tokasan) H PARK dori PARK Koryu 23 4 16 SEIBUKAGAN H 7 School / Pe Kaikan ace H TANAKAMACHI RYOKUCHI PARK Blv20 Chuden-mae d/ H Na H Hya 8 H H Kan kajima ku m 10 zakib 11 13 NAKAMACHI e H t Heaiw er-d Shirakami OTEMACHI shi 29 Tsuchiya oro AIRI a-oh 6 H 17 2 OTEMACHI Shrine ash 14 Hospital MACHI 5 KOMACHI PARK 2 Aster i 10Crystal H Plaza YAYOICHO Plaza AKAJIMACHO 22 MIKAWACHO H H 13 Kozaki NAGAREKAWACHO HHiroshima FUJIMICHO KAKOMACHI 5 i Primary Chuo or Enryuji School -d Post Office 3 Kokutaiji ae Heiw Temple 8 NISHIHIRATSUKACHO im Nakajima High School k a E -o-d (Tokasan) 19 HOtemachi1 Primary TSURUMICH Naka o Ward ri SEIBUKAGAN H Shiyakusho School Commercial Office / Pea Fuji Grand TANAKAMACHI RYOKUCHI PARK ce B mae High School Shopping lvd Chuden-mae / Hy Center H unairi-honmachi aku H HIGASHIHIR T met Kokutaiji 7 H Pr e r-do OTEMACHI Junior KOKUTAIJI S ro Hiroshima H HIRATSUK High School OTEMACHI PARK Shin-sum City Hall iyosh PARK KOMACHI PARK bashi 2 i TAKARAMACHI H

TATEMACHI

Sum

iyosh

Otemachi Commercial High School

26\

Hiroshima Chuo Post Office i

ibash

sh ijiba

Shiyakusho mae

Naka Ward Office

Hiroshima City Hall

FUJIMICHO Ta Shopkanobas hi ping Kokutaiji Stre et High School

KOKUTAIJI PARK

TAKEYACHOe-d

Ek Takanobashi

Kokutaiji Junior High School

HIGASHI SENDA PARK

TSURUMICHO Fuji Grand Shopping Center

Takeya Primary School

Peace Pagoda

Kinko Inari Shrine

MT. FUTABAYAMA

Toshogu Shrine

HIKARIGAOKA FUTABANOSATO

YAMANECHO

Tetsudo Hospital

HIKARIMACHI H

DEN

KAMIOSUGACHO

-d

ashi

OSUGACHO ho

i 14

ONAGAN

ATAGOMACHI

Enkobashi-cho

KOJINMACHI

bas

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HIGASHIKOJINMACHI

Matoba-cho

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NISHIKANIYA

Danbara-1chome

Hijiyamashita

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wab

HIJIYAMA PARK

-do

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DANBARA

shigaw

Ozu

COSTCO

ash i

do aam Hi

Kyoba

RATSUKACHO

MAZDA ZOOM ZOOM STADIUM

jiy

nsen

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Lin

MINAMIKANIYA MATSUGAWA PARK

Shinka

ish

Ekim

H Yanagibashi

Hiroshima Mall

MATOBACHO

ae-d o

INARIMACHI

ashi

NISHIKOJINMACHI

kog

Inarioh

ENKOBASHICHO

Kyobashi

Inari-machi

HIGASHIKANIYACHO

MATSUBARACHO

shi koba

Ek o- ima ha e sh i

KYOBASHICHO 27

WAKAKUSACHO

hima nk

Hiroshima Bank

MOTOCHO

Hiroshima Station

Fukuya

Kam iy bas anagi hi

al al eace

-d

JR HIROSHIMA STATION

TOBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

KAMI NOBORIMACHI PARK

Onaga Primary School

Hiroshima Bank

SHINKANSEN

Saka

MINOBORICHO

a-cho

Noborimachi Junior High School

TOCHO PARK

Futaba Junior High School

Supermarket Hiroden Streetcar Post Office Astram Line Monorail Tourist Info Covered arcade 짜100 Bicycle Parking Foreign Currency Exchange Public Bath International ATM Airport Bus DANBARAHINODEPlay area Meipuru~pu bus Hiroshima Free Wi-Fi H Hotel

Sky Walk Escalator Danbara Shopping Center

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2014

DANBARAYAMASAKI

/27

C TOKAICHI Kerala Shokudo

Honkawa - Tokaichi - Dobashi

Mitsuboshi Yatai Despite the fact that the area between the Honkawa River, that runs down the western edge of Peace Memorial Park, and the tram line that joins the Tokaichi and Dobashi streetcar stops is only a few hundred meters from Hiroshima’s city center- it has a distinctly laid back and somewhat rough and ready shitamachi downtown atmosphere. Rents tend to be lower here and places run by young, trendy and sometimes bohemian owners rub shoulders with old school coffee shops, eateries and bars. We’ve picked out a few places to start with, but don’t be afraid to be adventurous - just don’t forget to pack your phrasebook!

Babaji Nobuishi

Kizunaya

Aioi-dori / Densha-dori Ride Diner

Tokaichi-machi

Watchtower

18 Organ-za 30 Tokaichi Apartment

Honkawa-cho

28 Sprout

France-za

Honkawa Primary School

Ichiriki

Teramachi-dori

Dan Dan

HONKAWA PARK

Columbo

Fujii Toys

Dobashi Koami-cho

Fujii Wholesale Toys

taga

wa)

Nakamura-ya

yu-o

3 Cafe Cinnamon

1 Fuji

J-Hoppers 5

4 Ikawa Ryokan

Heiwa-o-dori / Peace Boulevard

28\

Hon

nice nonsense books

kaw

a (K

Dobashi Onsen

Photo © Hirofoto

D nightlife map Hiroshima After Dark, nagarekawa

Hiroshima has its fair share of hip cafes, hole in the wall drinking dens, “live houses” with fistfuls of bands every night, and bars popular with mixed international and local crowds. It also has a small, but passionate underground club scene. You won’t find big trendy clubs like in Tokyo and Osaka, but the music on offer is diverse and you can stumble upon some fun parties. Everything is pretty close together, so you can channel the funds you save on cab fares into having a great time. Best of all, in bar and club spaces as intimate as they are in Hiroshima, you have to work pretty hard not to meet people. Although there are fun places dotted all around the city, most nightlife is concentrated in and around the Nagarekawa “entertainment district”. The largest in western Japan, Nagarekawa’s maze of narrow streets is packed with buildings, stacked with floors that are, in turn, packed with tiny bars. It can be overwhelming, so use our recommendations as a starting point and see where the night takes you.

Kanayama-cho

Aioi-dori / Densha-dori

Tate-machi

Ebisu-cho

6 Hatchoza

MITSUKOSHI

FUKUYA

Kinzagai-dori

Ninnikuya Manao

5 Yamatoya

LABI

Southern Cross 18

HIROSHIMA BANK

MOMIJI BANK

Ebisu Shrine

Ebisu-dori

5 Chamonix Mont Blanc 24 Robatayaki Jindaiko

Sacred Spirits

Chinatown KIRIN BEER

Kinzagai-dori

1 1

45 quarante-cinq

Koba 10

Namiki-dori

7 Center Point

Chuo-dori

23 Porta Porte

Mac 13

Lotus

8 Galley

Bar Swallowtail

8 DON QUIJOTTE

Washington Hotel

Tropical Bar Revolution 20

FUKUROMACHI PARK

Mugen ∞ 5610

Lime Cay

Nagarekawa-dori

45bis awa

15 Molly Malone’s

SHINTENCHI PARK

Little Twitter 2

6 Cafe Spice

La Luna

Mambos Barcos 2 14 H

New King 17

Yagenbori-dori

PARCO HONKAN

The Shack Bar and Grill

Butsudan-dori

PARCO SHINKAN

Hondori

ALICE GARDEN

4 Travel With

BILLY THE KID

6 Choi Choi Ya 22 Plus Minus

5 Roots

Bon Voyage 5 Enryuji Temple (Tokasan)

3 Bar Edge

Enjoint Bar Cover H

-d m ae

H H

Ek i

H H

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2014

Heiwa-o-dori / Peace Blvd / Hyaku meter-

doro

/29

E GETTING AROUND

Streetcar lines Hiroden Line #1 (Hiroshima Station > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #2 (Hiroshima Station > Miyajima-guchi) Hiroden Line #3 (Hiroden Nishi Hiroshima > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #5 (Hiroshima Station > Hijiyama-shita > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #6 (Hiroshima Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #7 (Yokogawa Station > Hiroden Honsha mae) Hiroden Line #8 (Yokogawa Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #9 (Hatchobori > Hakushima) Astram Line (Hondori > Koikikoenmae)

Asa Zoo (Kamiyasu)

tor

ka Ta

Limousine bus (Hiroshima City > Hiroshima Airport)

iya

m Ka

Meipuru~pu bus

shi

iga asuh

ndai

amo

Bish

Chorakuji

World Heritage Route (boat) (Peace Park > Miyajima)

chi

Oma

ichi

Furu

Matsuyama Super Jet Ferry

Tomo Obara

Nakasuji

Transport Museum

Tomochuo Ozuka

¥190~480

Big Arch Stadium

Gionshinbashikita

Ushita

Hakushima

(Fudoinmae)

Yokogawa Station JR

Kencho-mae

Betsuin-mae

Tera-machi

Hiroden nishi Hiroshima

K hi-

him

k Fu

Line Shinkansen Station

c a-

i-c

a Ko

d u-

m Bo

ak ic nb(Atom hi Dobashi ac chi a i-m air n-m n Fu i-ho ir a n Fu Ge

ae m ome)

Kamiyacho Nishi

Hiroshima Station JR

Hakushima Line, All Destinations,

¥110

Hakushima

Hiroshima Station

Shukkeien-mae Jogakuin-mae Kamiyacho Higashi

-c

isu

h -c

i-m

Hondori Peace Park

Okonomi-mura mae

Funairi-minami-machi

Nisseki byoin mae

Hiroden Honsha mae

Minami machi 6-chome

ki-

iyu

h as

The flat fare for inner city travel is ¥160, (child ¥80)

a ug

k zo Fu ai- ae d -m ro Hi oin y nb Ke

e m ho -c e -3 om a h e in Uj -4-c om a in -ch Uj a-5 i in or Uj n-d iga a K

Ujina 2-chome

¥160

Moto-Ujina-guchi Hiroshima Port

Miyajima

Matsuyama

30\

The fare for travel on Miyajima bound streetcars varies according to distance. (¥260 to Miyajima)

i-m

ina

Eba

Miyajima-guchi

-c

i-2

h ac

Takano-bashi

Funairi-kawaguchi-cho

u ak

i-k

ina

Shiyakusho-mae

Funairi-saiwai-cho

ijiy

Museum of Contemporary Art

ita

jiy

Fukuro-machi Chuden-mae

c 1-

Mazda Stadium

Matoba cho

Hatchobori

Tate-machi

i-c

a ob

Katei Saibansho-mae

Bus Center

o ch

Tokaichi machi

Nishi Hiroshima Station JR

Sanyo Main

Museum of Art

Yokogawa 1-chome e

in nL

(Ushita)

Johoku

Yokogawa Station

Big Wave

Kabe Lin

Mitaki JR

Mitaki Temple

Miyajima Guchi JR

Fudoin Temple

Fudoinmae

(Koikikoenmae)

JR Train Lines

Nishihara

Astram Line fares vary according to distance.

Koikikoenmae

JR Ferry and Matsudai Ferry to Miyajima

(Chorakuji)

trail running Words and photos by Leah Daugherty

Hachijyouiwa Musubi Iwa 667m Mt Gongen ( 権現山 ) Gongenyama 700m Toriboshiyama ( 鳥帽子山 ) 631m

Iwakuni resident Leah Daugherty has thrown herself into the local trail running scene since arriving in Japan a couple of years ago and turned a few heads with victories in iconic events such as the Mt Fuji Climbing Race and the 88km Shizuoka to Yamanashi (STY). You don’t, however, have to travel far to find fantastic trails. Here she shares some of her favorite discoveries. Although Hiroshima can seem all hustle and bustle, there is no shortage of trails and great views in the mountains surrounding the city. On weekends, I love to jump in the car with my husband and dog and drive out of town in search of a new trail with a good view - we are yet to be disappointed! We love to run these trails, but they are all equally good for escaping the city for a hike or maybe a picnic with the fam and friends. Here are some of my favorite finds. They are of varying difficulty and all are located within a 2 hour drive of Hiroshima city.

point out the turn off road. Drive west on the small neighborhood road, keeping to the right at the forks. The road will become dirt and turn into the trail. You can park off to the side of the road.

Plateau” (in Japanese and English) which will take you to the Matsu-no-ki-touge trailhead. Either way I definitely recommend a stop at Ushiobara Hot Springs after your efforts!

Mt Jakuchisan (“Seven Falls”) and Mt Aki Kanmuri

Northern Hiroshima Mt Hibayama (比婆山) is about a 2 hour drive north of Hiroshima city and is part of the Hiba-Dogo-Taishaku Quasi-National Park. There are many campgrounds in the area however we camped at Kenmin-no-mori Ski Area (hotel lodging is also available here) and accessed the mountain through trails originating there. The area offers trails for all levels and is unique because many of the mountain summits are grassy and without dense vegetation. The result is some panoramic views!

Ono Wildlife Sanctuary (おおの自然観察の森) is less than an hour drive from Hiroshima city and has great views of Miyajima and Hiroshima city. There are streams, lakes and various gardens with flat walking paths as well as a nature center within the sanctuary limits. This is a great place to take young kids out for a picnic and afternoon in the outdoors. If your kids are older or feeling genki (energetic), you can hike up to the distinctive Musubi Iwa (むすび岩) that does look just like a musubi riceball. Musubi has great views of Miyajima and the surrounding area. For serious hikers, follow trails out of the park and along steep ridge lines that run west to Mt Gongen (権現山), east to Toriboshi-yama (鳥帽子山) and south. I’m yet to run into a dead end on these trails.

For those looking for a good climb, Asa-yama (阿佐山), the tallest mountain at Mizuho Ski Area provides a fun challenge. My husband and I enjoy running straight up the ski run and then continuing to the summit via the dirt tractor road once the vegetation gets too dense to trek through. There are trails at the top of the mountain that take you to adjoining mountains and down the backside of the Asa-yama however I haven’t had a chance to explore them yet. Running straight down the ski run is a great reward for your prior upward oriented effort!

“Seven Peaks” (Kouhira Renzan) 河平連山

Seven Peaks is just down the road from Ono Wildlife Sanctuary. It has an initial steep climb and then goes up and down a series of short climbs and descents as the trail crests the summit of seven mountains connected by a crescent shaped ridge line. The trail is only about a 4k in length but is a bit strenuous because of the steep climbing and descending. You can make a loop out of it by returning on roads. The trail offers more great views of Miyajima, Otake, and the mountains to the west and south. On Route 42 in Otake, keep an eye out for small billboards with seemingly hand-drawn mountains that

1337m Mt Jakuchisan (寂地山) and 1,338m Mt Aki Kanmuri (安芸冠山) are neighboring mountains on the Yamaguchi and Hiroshima border, about 1 hour and 15 minutes west of Hiroshima city. The network of trails in this area is extensive and connects the two mountains. Jakuchi Mountain (the tallest mountain in Yamaguchi Prefecture) is also known by many westerners as “7 Falls” because of the beautiful waterfalls that can be seen a short hike from the main trail head. The remaining trails follow various streams and meander through lush cedar forest. Hikers of all levels (including young kids) will enjoy this location. There are areas to have a picnic and camp ($10). Cabins are also available for rent for about $100. To reach the trailhead for Jakuchi and Kanmuri from Hiroshima, get off the Chugoku Expressway at Yoshiwa Interchange, take Rt 186 west. Turning right and continue past Ushiobara Hot Springs (潮原原温泉) the road turns to dirt and ends a little ways further up the mountain at the trailhead. You can park off to the side where the road dead ends. Alternatively, continue past the turn off for Ushiobara Hot Springs and take a right at the sign for “Kanmuri

These are just a few of my favorites. You’ll notice from any look at a map or the tantalizing road signs that point to mountains and highlands that Hiroshima’s hinterland is packed with mountains and crisscrossed by trails. Autumn is the perfect time of year to explore them.

Leah Daugherty is based in Iwakuni. She coaches runners of all abilities, donating all proceeds to charity. Find out more about Leah and her coaching sevices at http://soleendurance.com/

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Island Hopping by bike across the Tobishima Kaido

安芸灘とびしま海道

ycling is booming in Japan and, once off the main thoroughfares, there is plenty of great biking to be had in Hiroshima. The region offers great variety. You can ride along narrow valleys through small villages surrounded by rice fields, find mountain climbs that just won’t quit or cruise along beautiful winding coastal roads. The Shimanami Kaido cycle route which links Onomichi with Imabari on Shikoku via a series of impressive bridges has been getting a lot of attention recently, but just to the west is another islandhopping route popular with local cyclists in the know. The “Tobishima Kaido” has its own set of 7 bridges that link the Akinada Islands. There are many route options, but the “standard” out and back ride to historic Mitarai is very doable, at just under 50km (30 miles). The Akinada Islands are an oasis of rural calm. Here, you can escape the hustle and bustle of Honshu’s cluttered western seaboard and lose yourself in some of the region’s most beautiful scenery. The Akinada Ohashi Bridge whisks you from the shipyards and factories of Honshu to a Japan that has changed little in decades. The road, which meanders between clear blue water on one side and dark green hillsides covered with citrus groves on the other, passes small seaside communities and places of historical and cultural interest. It also offers some stunning views.

sannose 三之瀬

With a promenade from which to enjoy the view of the picturesque islets beyond the Kamagari Bridge and a string of restored cultural facilities, Sannose makes for a pleasant stop. Sannose was a favorite stopping off point for Korean envoys making the sea journey to the capital Edo. Looking at the replica of the banquets served on display in the Gochiso Ichibankan, part of the Shotoen complex of traditional dwellings converted into museums and gardens, one can see why. It is said that were the envoys to avail themselves of the hospitality of the local daimyo lords in consecutive years, the domain would likely go bankrupt. The same complex has, somewhat bizarrely, a museum of lighting through the ages, as well as a restored guard house and some nice Japanese gardens. Sannose also boasts two art museums and a museum devoted to insects.

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Visiting all the museums can be a little pricey, but the Hakusetsuro Edo-era tea house is well worth paying the ¥300 entrance fee. It is a small building with a narrow staircase and “ninja-style” hidden passages and moveable walls. On a warm day, you can feel like hanging out in the upstairs tatami mat room for hours. The admission charge also includes a pleasant (and relaxed) cup of matcha tea and a dainty sweet. Dining opportunities are limited on the Akinada Islands, but there are a couple of lunch places to eat here in Sannose. You can, however, stock up on calories at the Yamasaki convenience store under the bridge.

Beach Parks and KamiKamagari 上蒲刈 It’s autumn, so you won’t find people swimming at Tobishima’s three beach parks, nor will all the facilities be open. That said, it can still be pretty warm until late into the year and you’ll have the parks pretty much to yourself. Kajigahama and Koigahama beach parks are fairly basic, but Ken-min-no-hama has a beach ranked as one of the Japan’s top 100 and has more facilities which include an onsen hot spring bath. Officially, camping is only permitted at Koigahama, but this kind of area is perfect for discrete wild camping, just don’t tell anyone we told you so! Those who want to get out of the saddle and stretch their legs can access a network of hiking trails by making the steep climb to the top of 457m Mt Nanakunimi from the Walking Center.

BIKE KNOWLEDGE • When transporting bicycles by train they must be fully covered in a carryonbag called (rinkobukuro). These can be purchased at Montbell and Tokyu Hands in Hiroshima city center as well as at other large bicycle stores and cost from ¥3000¥-7000. • Bicycles should basically follow the same rules as cars. However, when turning right they are expected to act like pedestrians by using the crosswalk. • Bicycles are required by law to have a light, bell and a rear reflector. • While bicycle theft is still rare it is on the increase. You don’t need to be too paranoid, but it makes sense to lock up.

Mitarai 御手洗

The port town of Mitarai is a hidden gem with a fascinating history. Despite its historical significance and many well preserved buildings, there is a good chance that when you visit Mitarai, particularly if you go on a weekday you will have the place pretty much to yourself. It is difficult to imagine that this now sleepy town, with its maze of narrow streets, was once a vibrant entrepôt , through which some of Japan’s most important historical figures passed. Mitarai made an ideal stopping off point for ships making their way to and from Edo, and grew rapidly in the 17th Century serving the needs of the ships at anchor waiting for favorable tides and winds on which to move on. The carnal needs were satisfied by “women of pleasure” known as oiran despatched from the officially sanctioned “tea houses” (chaya). The largest, the Wakaebisuya, still stands today and has recently been restored enough to be opened to visitors.

Many young girls from the surrounding islands and further afield were sold by impoverished families into the service of Mitarai’s teahouses, working initially as kamuro who attended to the oiran. One story (the Haguro Densetsu) tells of a young kamuro being killed by an angry oiran who poured the boiling mixture used to blacken teeth down her throat. An indelible mark said to be a handprint made by the unfortunate kamuro as she fell can still be seen on the upper floor of the Wakaebisuya. Whether the story is based on fact or not, the lives of these women were often less fortunate and early deaths were common. The remains of Mitarai’s oiran have now been transferred to a plot of land just below the Rekishinomieruoka Park, which provides stunning views over the town, the small islands across the narrow strait, and out to the Shimanami Bridges to Imabari on Shikoku.

http://www.kurenavi.jp/html/download_pdf/pp_kurenavi_kanko_english.pdf

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Ocho 大長

Kashima

Just before arriving at Mitarai you will notice some huge warehouses on the waterfront bearing the mark of Ōchō Mikan. Ōchō Mikan have a well-deserved reputation for being some of the region’s best. During the autumn, most cyclists will stop at the warehouses to pick up a bag of delicious, fresh oranges, lemons and/or derivative local products before moving on to Mitarai, which is only a few minutes along the coast. If you have time, however, a detour into the small town is well worthwhile. In no way on the tourist track, Ōchō is a real working island town in all its unpolished, grimy glory. Wander around its backstreets and watch the initially stony countenance of the locals melt into a smile at a cheery konnichiwa! Ōchō may not have the historic pedigree of its more famous, and tidy, neighbor, but lovers of Showa Retro signage will find some great examples here, and the delightful Utsu Shrine dates back at least a thousand years and will delight photographers. Yagura Matsuri: 4th weekend of September

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1: Mitarai / 2: Roof tiles / 3: Mitarai / 4: Ocho / 5: Mikan / 6: Ocean views

Hiroshima Port (Ujina)

Tenjingawa

Saka

Mukainada

Mizushiri

Kaitaichi

Yano

Kure

Kurushima

Ochō

Ōchō

Ōsaki-Kamijima

Akashi

Okamurajima

Mitarai

Ōchō

Takehara

i▶

Sports park with a 13.2m high jungle gym.

Kakyō Kinen Kōen

Mikadojima

Kubi

Ōsaki-Shimojima

Tachibana

Ōhama

▲Mt.Noro 839m

Akikawajiri

Akinada

Toyoshima

▲Mt.Jyūmonji 309m

ita

Hiro

Akinada Bridge

Start of the “Tobishima Kaido”. Tolls for cars, but free for pedestrians & cyclists.

Okubijima

Shin-Hiro

Sannose

Walking Center●

▲Mt.Nanakunimi 457m

Kami-Kamagarijima

Deai no Yakata

Local products and light meals and snacks available.

Kenminnohama

Pleasant beach, onsen hot spring, an observatory and a chance to try ancient salt making.

Itsukishima

M To ats uy

Itsukishima

Tennō

Kure Portopia

Koyaura

Tennō

(Kure Portopia)

Karugahama Yoshiura

Kawaraishi

Akiaga

Kamikurojima Shimokurojima

Kashiwajima

Ferries run between Takehara and Ocho several times a day taking between 30 and 40 minutes, but only the first (07:23) and penultimate (18:10) departures of the day stop at Mitarai. Four buses a day make the long (2hr 20min) journey from Hiroshima Bus Center (bus stand #5) to Mitarai via Kure departing at 10:03, 11:03, 16:45 and 17:35 and returning at 06:22, 07:23, 13:18 and 14:10. The fare is ¥2090 one way. If you’d like to stop at Sannose, get off at Shimokamagari Junior High School (shimokamagari chuu gakkou) from where Sannose is an 800m walk. Drivers should be aware that there is a ¥720 toll* (standard size car) to cross the Akinada Ohashi Bridge each way. * Show ¥1000+ receipt for free toll back

Shimo-Kamagarijima

Nigata

Not cycling?

JR Hiroshima Station

Prince Hotel Pier

(Fukikoshi)

Kirikushi

Kanawajima

Kirikushi

Etajima

▲Mt.Kumandake 400m

Koyō ・Former Naval Academy

Kure Port

Although well maintained, the Tobishima Kaido is still off the beaten track and shops and restaurants are few and far between please bear this mind when preparing for your ride. You should also carry a puncture repair kit.

・Bus Center

Tōgejima

Peace Park

▲Mt.Aki-no-ko-fuji 278m

Ninoshima Ninoshima

Bike Etajima! Over 100km of quiet roads. This route (marked in green) is 30km & takes about 2 hours.

hi-Hiroshima

ōmijima

▲Mt.Shindōzan 287m

Higashinōmijima

Kurahashijima

▲Mt.Hiyama 406m

NOTE am a▶

EVENTS OKTOBERFEST 2014 f September 5-15

HIROSHIMA INTERNATIONAL PE ACE MAR ATHON

YALE YALE CHIK A HIROBA FLEA MARKET

f Former Baseball Stadium Park

f November 3 (National Holiday)

f 9/20, 10-17:00

Week days : 15:00 - 21:00 Holidays : 11:00 - 21:00 The beers aren't cheap, but it's free admission to the site where there you'll find German beers, food, a smattering of Japanese craft brews and, of course, Oompha bands.

f Coca Cola West Stadium, Kannon Shinmachi, Nishi-ku

f Yale Yale, Hiroshima Station

PECHA KUCHA NIGHT HIROSHIMA VOL.9 f September 7, 18:00-21:30 f Dining Darts Bar Bee, ¥1000

Check out and meet some of the many people working hard to make Hiroshima a better place. Concise and entertaining presentations with plenty of "beer breaks" to give you time to chat with presenters and fellow audience members. See Page 11 for more about Pecha Kucha Hiroshima.

AUTUMN ORCHID E XHIBITION f October 25 - November 3, 9:00-16:30 f Botanical Gardens (Hiroshima-shi Shokubutsu Koen)

Closed : Every Friday Adult : ¥510 - Child : ¥170 - Senior : ¥170

THE 59TH FUKUYAMA CHRYSANTHEMUM E XHIBITION

The Peace Marathon may not actually be a “marathon" (the longest division is 10km) nor is it anywhere near the Peace Memorial Park, but around 12,000 people take part in the city's only public running event every year and it always has a festive atmosphere, whatever the weather. Entries are open until September 12. www.hiroshima-marathon.com

GR AND INOKO FESTIVAL

OHH!TOKU FLEMA f 9/21-26, 10:00-16:00 f Marina Hop, Kannon

OYAKO FLIMA f 9/21, 10/19, 9:30-15:00 f Kure Portopia Park,Event Street, Kure

f November 8-9

R AKUICHI MATSURI

f Fukuromachi Park

f 9/27-28, 10/25-26, 9:30-16:00

This contemporary interpretation of the traditional “inoko” local festival still enacted by children in Hiroshima neighborhoods, a giant stone is suspended by the nothing more than a ropes hung from a ring of bamboo stalks to create an impressive art installation on which you can bounce and swing! Music and fun starts on November 8, but the main action and the lifting of the rock happens from midafternoon on November 9. Not to be missed if you are in Hiroshima on this weekend.

f Kure Portopia Park,Event Street, Kure

COSQUER ADE

OHH!TOKU FES f 10/5, 10:00-16:00 f Marina Hop,Kannon

OTA-GAWA RIVER YUME HIROBA f 10/11-12, 12/13-14, 8:00-15:00 f Kawauchi, Asaminami-ku

f October 24 - November 14

f November 9, 10:00-18:00

UJINA MIYUKIMATSU NIJIHIROBA FLIMA

f Fukuyama Castle Park, Free

f Kyu-nichi-gin Former Bank of Japan Hiroshima Branch

f 10/19, 11/16, 8:00-15:00

http://cosquerade.com/

f Motoujina guchi, Prince Hotel, Niji hiroba, Ujina

PECHA KUCHA NIGHT HIROSHIMA VOL.10

FARMER’S MARKETS

HIROSHIMA FOOD FESTIVAL f October 25-26 f Hiroshima Castle and Central Park

For two days the streets and paths around Hiroshima Castle and Chuo Central Park are lined with stalls from far and wide serving up their local specialities. If the weather is good, expect huge, hungry crowds. Vegetarians are advised to eat before they go.

f November 29

TAKEHAR A SHOKEI-NO-MICHI CANDLE FESTIVAL

f December 1

f October 25-26, November 23, 17:00-21:00 f Takehara Historic Preservation District

Takehara with its well preserved Edoera merchant houses makes for a very pleasant day trip at any time of the year, but the streets look particularly pretty when illuminated by candlelight. The main event is October 25 & 26, but a smaller area will also be illuminated on November 2 & 3.

HIROSHIMA FREIGHT TR AIN FESTIVAL f October 26, 09:30-15:30

f Venue TBC

HIROSHIMA MINATO MARCHÉ

See GetHiroshima.com for details of what promises to be a special event.

f 9/21, 10/19, 11/16, 9:00-15:00

MIYAJIMA CROSS COUNTRY f Miyajima

Another local running event with a misleading name, all but 100m of this "cross country" are off road. Nonetheless, it's a corker of race with the outandback 15km course taking up and down some killer hills and giving runners a look at the littlevisited beaches on back side of Miyajima. Entries are open until September 30 for 3km, 6km and 15km events. http://www.hicat.ne.jp/home/kawamoto/hsrc/miyajima.htm

HIROSHIMA CASTLE CHRYSANTHEMUM E XHIBITION f Late October mid-November f Hiroshima Castle Grounds

MUSIC EL GR AN COMBO ¡VÍVELA! SALSA TOUR 2014 f September 3 f Club Quattro, ¥6500

“S.G.C.”VOL.41 10TH ANNIVERSARY f September 7, 17:30 f Club Quattro, ¥2000

HIKING

f Hiroshima rolling stock depot (Hiroshima Sharyo-sho)

This annual event flies under the radar, but is a must for train geeks and a good alternative for people worried about losing their kids at the Food Festival.

f Hiroshima Port Terminal, Ujina

Local alternative band night

CANNIBAL CORPSE

f September 21

f September 20, 18:00

f Mt. Ashitake “the Japan Pyramid” in Shobara City

f Club Quattro, ¥6900

http://hirosanfromhiroshima.wordpress.com/ [en]

FLEA MARKETS DYNAMIKU NOMINOICHI

JAZZ DUO PIANO & DOUBLE BASS f September 28 f New York Cafe, Oriental Hotel

21:00-21:30, 22:00-22:30, 23:00-23:30, ¥525

f 9/13-14, 10/11-13, 9:00-16:00

PUFF Y “SWAG,SWAG,SWAG” TOUR

f Kure Portopia Park,Event Street, Kure

f October 15, 18:00 f Club Quattro, ¥5400

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RIZE

DJ KTEE (Big Bang Recordings) DJ Bahn (BRAIN WASH / BROOKLYN PROJECTS) Shisha pipes and more ¥3500 (¥2500 with flyer) incl 1 drink

f every 2nd Tuesday

TOK YO SK A PAR ADISE ORCHESTR A

HALLOWEEN COSTUME PART Y

f every 2nd Wednesday

f October 30, 31, 18:00

f Club Chinatown

f October 27, 18:30 f Club Chinatown, ¥3900

f Club Quattro, ¥5400

25th Anniversary Live House Tour SKA ME FOREVER

STEREO RECORDS 9TH ANNIVERSARY f November 4, 18:00 f Club Quattro, ¥3500

OVERGROUND ACOUSTIC UNDERGROUND plus more

MONKE Y MAJIK f November 9, 17:00 f Aster Plaza

¥6500

CLUBBING (see map p.29 for venues)

f October 25 21:00-04:00

DENNOTEKI JOSHI-K AI (HALLOWEEN PART Y ) f October 25

f Agit

EUR ASIAN SUITE f every 4th Thursday f Bar Edge

COMPACT

Live Humpty & Dumpty, DJ: Aska, Chang B, JAH93, Judi, Okinu, Chiharu, Tomomi and more (come costumed!)

f every 3rd Wednesday

HALLOWEEN PART Y

WHAT ABOUT WEDNESDAY?

f October 31

f every 3rd Wednesday

f Guernica

f Centre Point

HALLOWEEN VS JAPANESE COSPL AY

ULTR A HAZE

f November 1

f Bar Edge

f Club Chinatown

NOT V PART YON

f September 6

f November 8

Guest DJ : YO*C , KITA / DJ : DJ RINN , okamOTO

DUBWISER

f Bar Edge, ¥1000

MODIF Y #5 f 流川Rootz

f Centre Point

f Club Chinatown

Guest DJs: 80KIDZ

f Bar Edge

f every 2d Sunday

FROIDE f every 3rd Friday f Enjoint Bar Cover

THE CLUB ROCKS f every 3rd Friday

THANK “DE ADSTOCK” IT’S FRIDAY

f Bar Edge

f September 12

NEW WORLD

f Enjoint Bar Cover (free) & Agit (¥1500)

f every 4th Friday

SE X Y CR AZ Y COOL 7 TH ANNIVERSARY

f Sacred Spirits (Cafe Jamaica)

f September 14

SOUL FOOD

f clubG

f every last Thursday

DJ Juicy and residents / ¥1000 (ladies get one free drink)

f Centre Point

KINGZ DISCO CAMP f September 14-15

NEW WORLD

f Rakan Kougen Highland, Yamaguchiken

f November 28

Reggae Dub Dancehall Festival

f Sacred Spirits, ¥3000 (adv) ¥4000 (door)

SPACE GATHERING

Takkyu Ishino (Denki Groove) DJ DIET (ROUTINE) & Residents new_world77@hotmail.com http://nwld.web.fc2.com/

f September 19 f Sacred Spirits, ¥2500 (incl 1 drink)

BURST f September 19

REGULAR NIGHTS

IN DA DINING f every last Friday f Lotus (June / July) - Bar Edge (August)

RED BULL NIGHT f every last Saturday f Bon Voyage

MID NIGHT TAMASHI f every 2nd Thursday f Bar Edge / ¥1500 / All genre

f Sacred Spirits

CR AZ Y SE X Y COOL

Tomo Hachiga (Tokyo), DJ I.P.U (Tokyo), Shinya (New World), Ton (Enjoint of Flat)

f every Thursday

IZMICAL

f Club G

f every 4th Friday

ESPUMA FOAM PART Y

SACRED SPIRITS

f September 22

f (almost) every Saturday

CAPSULE

f Guernica

f Cafe Jamaica, ¥1000 (incl 1 drink, 2 if enter before 24:00)

f every 3rd friday

REVITALIZE

LUSH

f October 3

f every 1st Saturday

f Sacred Spirits

f Mugen5160, ¥1000 (plus 1 drink order)

Guest DJs: GothTrad (DEEP MiDi MUSIK / Back To Chill) Meme (Back To Chill / ruby room)

E ASY SK ANKING

f Bar Edge / Eclectic dance

f Sea Cake Style

Go to gethiroshima.com/events for more details about these and many more events.

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2014

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Kid’s Page Family Friendly Hiroshima

Hiroshima Castle 広島城

Young children are much loved in Japan and kids can provide great opportunities for connecting with locals. Hiroshima offers plenty of fun for those with little ones in tow.

We’ve yet to meet a kid who doesn’t get excited by a castle, even if it is reconstructed. Try on a samurai helmet, peruse the museum, run around the grounds and look for turtles and koi in the moat. Samurai shows in Ninomaru outer citadel every Sunday at 13:30 & 15:00.

Mitaki Temple 三滝寺

Toy Stores and Game Centers

Shady, winding paths, good views and a few play areas at the top of the Sky Walk escalator. The Modern Art museum often has kid-friendly exhibits and (free) outdoor sculptures. The Manga Library is interesting and has some English books among - take a look at the famous Barefoot Gen series.

Senda Park 千田公園

Miyajima 宮島

Neverland on the 6F of Edion electronics store (near Kamiyacho-Nishi streetcar stop) has popular Japanese toys and a play area with Lego and lots gacha-gacha toy machines. Multi-story game center.

Kid-o-Kid on the 6F of Pacela shopping center (next to the Rihga hotel) is pay-as-you-play indoor fun (6mths12yrs). Also play area on Pacela’s outdoor terrace with a view of Hiroshima Castle.

Hijiyama Park 比治山公園

Next to the Naka-ku sports center (nearest streetcar is Hiroden Honsha-mae: have lunch in the classic tram diner), great roller slide, playground, picnic areas, trim trail and lots of room for running, skating, riding around and a field for ball sports. Join us here on the last Sunday of October for a Hiroshima International Family Halloween Party Picnic- bring your own lunch and some sweets to share for the trick-or-treating game. (¥1,000 per family donation to the BlinkNow.org project in Nepal : educating & supporting women and children in need).

Interesting jizo statues, beautiful colored leaves, fascinating temples, waterfalls and a bamboo forest make Mitaki-dera a great adventure for kids. Only a 20 min taxi ride from the city center or 20 min walk up the hill from JR Mitaki station. Free entry, but contributions welcome in donation boxes. Small cafe near entrance & basic restrooms but no other nearby services, so pack your own drinks and snacks.

Round 1 has video games: Mario Kart, drumming, dancing and shooting games, puri kura print club booths, private karaoke rooms, bowling & more.

Further afield

Central Hiroshima has a lot of small public parks but the play facilities tend to be a little uninspiring. That said a few minutes on a slide or a swing set can bring fun and relief to parents and children. Look for the monkey icon on the map for playgrounds.

There’s more to Miyajima than temples and shrines. Kids love to pet the deer, swim in the sea, hunt shells on the beaches, dress up like a samurai, splash in the streams, twirl the prayer wheels and seek out all the jizo statues at Daisho-in, take a cable car to the top of Mt.Misen, watch machines pump out “momiji-manju” cakes, and enjoy the aquarium. Plan for a full day of family fun on Miyajima island and you will not be disappointed!

TIPS

Check out GHJnr: We love to show the kids perspective too! Send us your writing + drawings about Hiroshima to info@gethiroshima.com

Peace City Scavenger Hunt River Taxi, sightseeing boat, ferry or water craft10 pts each

Can you find all ten?! Find a gacha-gacha toy machine 20pts (find a toy poo for a bonus 50pts / golden poo toy + 1,000pts!!) A street artist, juggler or musician - 20pts Samurai mask with a moustache (Hiroshima castle) - 20pts “Peace” written in 10 or more languages - 20pts

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Turtles & Koi (carp) fish (check the castle moat or in Shukkei-en garden) 10pts each

Momiji-manju (maple leaf shaped cakes)- 10 pts Find a gluten-free one + 50 pts

An A-bombed tree (50pts each) Wheely-treats: food cart vendors- 20pts each (say “hi”- these vendors are super friendly) Autumn leaves of different colors - 10pts each

TOTAL:

kanak Delicious, healthy, additive-free Indian food right next to Peace Park. Excellent lunch sets. Indian pub-style atmosphere at night with many a la carte dishes to choose from as well as curry meals. Curry lunch sets from ¥790 Free refills of rice/nan at lunch Vegetarian & Halal food A la carte Kids sets ¥500 Party room available

Lunch 11:00-15:00 (L.O. 14:30) Dinner 17:00-22:30 (L.O. 22:00) 082-236-7308 Map p.26 [B-3] 10

Artcafe ELK

Cafe Cinnamon

2nd floor cafe near Peace Park with good sandwich lunches, drinks, vegetarian menu. International exchange spot.

Closed Tues. Charming little blue cafe worth seeking out for great food and drinks.

9:30-21:00 /22:00 (Fri. and Sat.) 082-247-4443 map p.26 [A-3] 2

11:30-15:00, 18:00-22:00 Closed Tuesdays 082- 942-3424 map C p.28 3

Cafe Lente

Chamonix Mont Blanc

Escape the Miyajima crowds at this beautifully designed cafe. Wooden terrace. Great view of the floating torii gate, especially after dark.

Venerable kissaten since 1955, now with a British connection.

11:00-21:00 Closed Tuesdays Located along the water inlet between Kiyomori Shrine & Miyajima Aquarium.

08:00-24:00 082-241-2726 map p.26 [C-3] 5

Choi Choi Ya

Galley

Shiho serves Hiroshima tsukemen, yaki-ramen (fish stock base), side dishes and drinks in a relaxed atmosphere. Eat, drink or both at the counter or a street-side table. Can get quite lively late at night. 20:30-03:00 Closed Sundays & hols that fall on a weekday map p.26 [C-4] 6

3F casual French bistro overlooking Namiki-dori in the center of Hiroshima’s shopping district. Open for lunches, dinner and in between.

Graffity Mexican Diner

Namaste Hiroshima Station

Homemade Mexican and US style foods in this family run-diner.

Delicious Indian, Himalayan and vegetarian dishes on the 6th floor of the Hiroshima Station building.

11:30-13:20, 18:00-24:00 (L.O. 23:00) 082-243-3669 map p.26 [B-3] 9

11:00-15:00, 17:00-22:00 (L.O.) 082-568-0045 map p.27 [E-2] 16

Organ-za

Otis!

Bohemian queen, Goto Izumi's avant guard center of operations. Great decor, food, drink and bizarre stage shows.

Eclectic and ethnic music. Tex Mex, vegetarian, vegan and gluten free dishes available.

Tue-Fri 17:30-01:30 (L.O.), Sat 11:30-01:30 (L.O.) Sun 11:30-23:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-295-1553 map C p.28 18

Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30 (L.O.) , Sun, hols 16:00-22:30 (L.O.) 082-249-3885 map p.26 [A-4] 19

Pasta La Vista

Pimiento

Stylish eatery near Peace Park which prides itself on its many pasta types & local ingredients. Smoke free at lunch. Vegetarian options.

Spanish tapas and Italian dishes. Friendly casual atmosphere. Central location on Noborimachi park.

Lunch Mon-Fri 11:00-15:00 (L.O. 14:30) / Sat, Sun, hols 11:00-16:00 (L.O. 15:30) Dinner 17:00-24:00 (L.O 23:30) map p.26 [A-3] 20

17:00-23:00 Closed Sun, hols 082-227-5880 map p.26 [C-3] 21

Lunch 12:00-14:00 Cafe 14:00-18:00 Dinner 18:00-24:00 (L.O. 23:30) 082-243-3669 map p.26 [B-3] 8

Plus Minus

Porta Porte

Top quality yaki-niku on 1 F in retro Japanese surroundings, and stylish, modern lounge bar upstairs. Good range of local sake.

Authentic Napoli style pizzeria with a view of the park out back.

17:00-06:00, Bar 19:00-06:00 24 082-236-8810 map p.26 [C-4] 22

11:00-15:00, 17:00-22:00 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-249-8010 map p.26 [B-3] 23

Robatayaki Jindaiko

Rojiura Teppan Kotaro

Long running establishment opposite Ebisu Shrine serving grilled meat, fish and vegetables.

Young grill master Kotaro serves delicious seasonal dishes & drinks just off Peace Blvd.

17:00-23:30 (L.O.) 082-246-4873 map p.26 [C-3] 24

17:00-02:00 (L.O. 01:30) Closed Tuesdays 082-249-1953 map p.26 [C-4] 2F 25

Roopali

Sprout

Popular Indian eatery serving good, tasty food in generous portions.

Delicious extensive menu. 5 min walk from peace park. Pasta, pizza, fish, meat and veggie dishes.

11:00-14:30 (L.O.), 17:00-22:00 (L.O.) 082-264-1333 map p.27 [E-2] 26

082-294-2019 17:30-1:00(L.O.). Lunch Fri. Sat. Sun. Holiday 11:30-14:00(L.O.) - Closed on Wednesday map p.26 [A-2] 28

Tinto

Tokaichi Apartment

Mediterranean dining bar open all day, with some great drink deals.

Quirky smoke free cafe in Tokaichi. ¥850 set lunches served 16:30.

11:30-24:00 Sun-Thurs, 11:30-01:00 Sat, Sun & hols 082-546-0007 map p.26 [B-3] 29

11:30-23:00 (lunch L.O. 16:30) Closed Tuesdays 082-231-9865 map C p.28 2F 30

Warung Matahari

Zucchini: bar and cucina

Excellent Indonesian cuisine prepared by Balinese chef Surasna. Vegetarians catered for.

Lively, reasonably-priced tapas restaurant-bar next to Peace Park.

17:30-22:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-240-2082 map p.26 [B-4] 31

11:30-15:00 (L.O 14:00) 17:00-24:00 (23:30 L.O) 082-546-0777 map p.26 [A-3] 32

Bar Edge

Bar Swallowtail (Yagenbori)

Small underground club with a good sound system.

Hiroshima’s first backpackers bar welcomes domestic and international travellers.

082-248-8146 map p.26 [C-4] 3

21:00-06:00 082-246-9266 map p.26 [C-3] 4

Bon Voyage

Cafe Spice

International bar with counter and 2 discount rooms in which to chill. Nice cocktails and some great food too.

Relaxed SE Asian atmosphere amid the buzz of Nagarekawa

Mon-Thur, Sun 18:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00 082-249-2380 map p.26 [C-4] 5

18:00-03:00 082-246-7934 map p.26 [C-3] 6

Centre Point

Enjoint Bar Cover

Susu’s bar: Interesting cocktails, DJ’s spinning at weekends, good source of local nightlife info.

Ton and Succhi pack a lot of fun into this tiny late night DJ bar. English is limited but communication is rarely a problem here.

Tue-Thur 20:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00-05:00, Sun 20:00-01:00 map p.26 [C-3] 7

Closed Mondays 082-249-3917 map p.26 [C-4] 8

Koba

La Luna

Rock loving BOM is one of Hiroshima’s most welcoming and entertaining bartenders. He whips up some very tasty food too.

International Food Bar with good music to relax, in comfortable surroundings Events every weekend

18-00-01:30(L.O), Closed Wednesdays 082-249-6556 map p.26 [B-3] 10

22:00-late Closed Sundays 082-241-6788 map p.26 [C-3] 11

Lime Cay

Mac

Relax with Reggae and Red Stripe in this chill little bar. Comfy sofas upstairs.

Legendary Hiroshima watering hole with massive CD collection.

19:00-05:00 Closed Mondays 082-546-1525 map p.26 [C-3] 12

18:00-late Closed Sundays 082-243-0343 map p.26 [C-3] 13

Mambos Fully licensed Latin American dance club.

18:00-01:00 082-246-5809 map p.26 [C-4] 14

Mugen∞5610(gorudo) Hiroshima’s biggest dance club space.

Molly Malone’s Hiroshima’s authentic Irish pub. Great beer, great food, great service. The place to watch Premier League soccer.

082-240-7788 map p.26 [C-3] 16

Mon-Thur 17:00-01:00 (L.O.), Fri 17:00-02:00 (L.O.), Sat 11:30-02:30 (L.O.) 082-244-2554 map p.26 [C-3] 15

New King Trendy and Pink, 2F bar run by the guys behind local hip men’s underwear boutique.

21:00-05:00 082-247-4487 map p.26 [C-4] 17

Southern Cross Fun, spacious, smoke-free Kiwi-Aussie themed bar serving up beers and wines from New Zealand and Australia, meat pies, sausage rolls, steak sandwiches, beef/lamb burgers and other pub favorites. Check online for details of their live music events, theme parties, DJ nights, quizzes, big screen sports and special drink deals.

www.facebook.com/southerncrosshiroshima 18:00-01:00 082-236-3396 map p.26 [B-3] 18

The Shack Bar and Grill Spacious American-style bar amd grill on the Hondori covered shopping street near PARCO Department Store. Great for groups. Import bottled beers, week night drink deals, big menu and free pool table. Sun-Thurs 17:00-01:00, Fri & Sat 17:00-03:00 082-504-4170 map p.26 [B-3] 19

Tropical Bar Revolución Nobu’s popular 8F hangout, friendly and relaxed complete with balcony.

18:00-03:00~04:00 Closed Sun, hols map p.26 [C-3] 20

IACE Travel

Little Twitter

Competitive prices, regular offers, and English speaking staff make IACE a popular choice for travellers.

Original designs and made to order jewelry and leather creations to fit your style.

082-240-2051 map p.26 [B-3] 1

12:00-20:00 082-243-6500 map p.26 [B-3] 2

Outsider Book Nook/ Global Lounge Used English books to buy or exchange. Internet, cafe & meeting place. Lunches daily, bar from 19:00 Fri & Sat.

Travel With A.G. Tanaka will get you a great deal for your international and domestic travel needs.

Mon-Thurs 11:30-21:00 Fri & Sat 11:30-23:00, Closed Sun, hols 082-244-8145 map p.26 [B-3] 3

10:00-20:00 (Sat, Sun, hols until 19:00) Closed Wednesdays 082-544-7718 map p.26 [C-3] 4

Yamatoya

Cleo Hair International

Produced in limited quantities yet reasonably priced, a bottle of Hiroshima's top quality local Japanese sake makes for a great souvenir. www.piconet.co.jp/yamatoya/

Pamper yourself in this state of the art beauty salon on the 9th floor of the PACELA shopping center.

09:00-22:00 Closed Sundays 082-241-5660 map p.26 [C-3] 5

10:00-20:00 082-511-2470 map p.26 [B-2] 1

Laff Hair Design

Roots

Ippei’s skills and service have made him a huge hit among Hiroshima’s international community.

One-to-one VIP treatment at Kazue’s boutique salon. Reservations only.

082-504-7636 (English line) map p.26 [A-3] 4

082-541-0300 map p.26 [B-4] 5

Dormy Inn

Hana Hostel

Great location. Single ¥6000 Double/Twin ¥10,000 (tourist discount)

“Hybrid inn” with knowledgeable staff near the station.

082-240-1177 map p.26 [B-4] 1

082-263-2980 map p.27 [E-3] 2

Hotel Flex

Ikawa Ryokan

Stylish riverside hotel, rates include breakfast Singles ¥6825, Doubles ¥11,555≤

Cozy, home-like atmosphere. Japanese and Western rooms. Coin laundry. S ¥5,940≤ / Twin ¥9,720 / Tr ¥14,580 Quad ¥17,280 / Breakfast ¥756

082-223-1000 map p.27 [D-2]

www.ikawaryokan.net info@ikawaryokan.net 082-231-5058 map C p.28 4

J-Hoppers Hiroshima

K’s House

Hiroshima’s first backpacker guesthouse. Beds from ¥2300.

Backpacker hostel 8min walk from Hiroshima Station. Dorms from ¥2500, Japanese style rooms (1-4 people) and ensuite western style rooms (1-3 people) ¥2700-¥5500 per person. Free Wi-Fi. 082-568-7244 map p.27 [D-3] 6

082-233-1360 map C p.28 5

Reino Inn

(Peace Park Hiroshima) Centrally located “Art & Culture” Hotel. Families and small pets welcome. Dorms ¥2700, singles from ¥3700 (¥2800 per person for 2 ppl), family rooms. 082-236-7003 map p.26 [A-4] 7

Washington Hotel Hospitality, amenity and security right in the heart of Hiroshima. All rooms equipped with great bathrooms and separate lavatory. WiFi in all rooms http://washington-hotels.jp/hiroshima/ 082-553-2222 map p.26 [C-3] 8

ARTS

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

Hiroshima Museum of Art

Well-designed building in Hijiyama hilltop park. Interesting sculptures and statues are dotted around the outside of the museum that can be viewed for free. Special exhibits and the exhibits from the museum’s own collection displayed on rotation along various themes. Map p.27 8

One of the largest art museums in Western Japan with a permanent collection of over 4,500 works which include Japanese nihonga painting, traditional Asian art crafts, 1920s and 1930s art, displayed on rotation. Right next to Shukkei-en Garden. Map p.26 13

Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso and many more works by great modern European painters on display in this small, but perfectly formed museum, very close to Hiroshima Castle. Visit on a weekday and you may well have the whole place to yourself. Map p.26 11

10:00-17:00 (Open until 19:00 7/20 & 7/21, 10/12 & 10/13) Admission to the collection exhibition: Adult ¥370, College students ¥270, High school students, seniors ¥170, Junior High School and younger free 082-264-1121 http://www.hiroshima-moca.jp/

09:00-17:00 (Open until 20:00 on Fridays until 11/9) Admission to the permanent collection Adult ¥510, College students ¥310, High school students and younger free . 082-221-6246 http://www.hpam.jp/

09:00-17:00 Admission to the general exhibition: Adult ¥1000 Seniors ¥500 College & high school students ¥500 Junior high school and elementary school students ¥200 082-223-2530 http://www.hiroshima-museum.jp/

Admission until 30 minutes before closing. Special exhibition charges vary and usually include admission to permanent collections. Closed Mondays (unless National Holiday when closed the following business day).Hiroshima Museum of Art open everyday during special exhibitions.

Gallery G Map p.326 5

Guri and Gura 50th Anniversary Exhibition September 6 - October 13, Hiroshima Museum of Art Admission Fee: Adult ¥1,200, College & high school ¥900, Junior high & elementary ¥500

The World of Kenji Ekuan: A Great Master of Design Hiroshima Produced November 18 - December 23 Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

Masterpieces of the Pola Museum of Art : From Monet and Renoir to Picasso September 13 - November 9, Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum, Open :09:00-17:00 (20:00 on Friday) Adult ¥1400, College & high school ¥800, junior high & elementary school ¥500

Shigeru Ueki: A Centennial Retrospective September 9 - November 3, Closed Tuesdays except September 23 when closed the following day.Shimane Art Museum, Matsue, Adult ¥1000 College ¥600 School students ¥300

Private art space opposite the Prefectural Art Museum which holds weekly free exhibitions by local artists, designers and artisans. 082-211-3260

EXHIBITIONS

Pierre Auguste Renoir Girl in a Lace Hat 1891 Pola Museum of Art

Legendary Houses in Post War Japan October 4 - December 7, Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art, 10:00-17: 00 Open until 19:00 October 12 & 13, Adult ¥1030, College students ¥720, Seniors, high school students ¥510, Free admission on November 3 Soutarou Yasui Exhibition September 20 - November 16 Fukuyama Museum of Art

Doris Salcedo, Plegaria Muda (detail), 2008-2010 Photo: Patrizia Tocci Doris Salcedo: The 9th Hiroshima Art Prize Commemorative Exhibition July 19-October 13, Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art, Adult ¥1030, College students ¥720, Seniors, high school students ¥510

Hanasaku-jiisan Exhibition August 16 - November 16, Tomonotsu Museum 10:00-17:00, Closed Monday & Tuesday except September 17 & 24, October 15 and November 5 when closed the following day. ¥600 (Elementary school and under, disabled and senior patrons free) Traveling Artist Mitsumasa Anno October 25 - December 7 Hiroshima Museum of Art

Japanese Sword Exhibition October 11 - December 7 Fukuyama Museum of Art Shigeru Ueki: A Centennial Retrospective September 9 - November 3, Closed Tuesdays except September 23 when closed the following day, Shimane Art Museum, Matsue, Adult ¥1000 College ¥600 School students ¥300 Story of Chairs September 13 - November 9, Onomichi City Museum of Art, Adult ¥700, College, High school students ¥500, Under 16 free

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2014

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Wagashi

Japan's Sweet Side Words by Matthew Mangham / photos by jjwalsh

I've long been leery of wagashi, or Japanese sweets. I don't know if it was the "ampan" bean paste bun I first bought within hours of arriving in Japan, mistaking it for chocolate, or the experience not long afterward of biting into what looked like vanilla ice cream only to find a concealed core of beans. "Why the beans?," I thought. "Why would you do this to me? Why beans everywhere but in a hearty soup, redolent with garlic and onion, where they belong?"

So I shied away from wagashi, with the exception of Miyajima's wonderful Momiji-manju. The maple leafshaped cakes filled with beans, yes, but also custard, chocolate cream, cheese, apple and more. At least until this past week, when I finally took time to learn more. First, the word wagashi only exists because of the introduction of foreign sweets following the opening of trade with the Portuguese. Earlier still, the origins of many popular types of wagashi are traced to Japanese priests returning from China with favorite recipes, some modified in keeping with the monastic ban on meat. The meat in dumplings was replaced with beans. My soup question was answered.

The word itself can be misleading, if you take too narrow a focus. Often translated as Japanese confectionery,

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wagashi simply refers to sweets that are deemed Japanese in origin. As such, wagashi includes an array of very different foods, from fresh namagashi sculpted from moist bean and sweet potato paste to molded tablets of specially processed sugar, dense jellies flavored with green tea and fruits, and the homely dorayaki, a lump of rough adzuki bean jam sandwiched between two pancakes (no, I'm not clear either on what's essentially Japanese about pancakes, but let's leave that aside). It was only in the Edo period that wagashi began taking on its modern form, as new techniques flourished among confectioners competing to offer the most elegant or novel creations, often served in formal tea ceremonies. Today wagashi is everywhere, from old specialty stores catering to the most refined tastes, to the corner convenience store, where I bought that bean filled bun all those years ago. To learn more, I visited Kagura, a small shop in Hiroshima's Kogo neighborhood run by a young confectioner from Kure city. Mr. Myojin makes everything onsite. He also offers classes in making sweets, and that's why I came. I sat down at a table of eight, the only man in the room besides our teacher, and started with namagashi, the delicate sweets most closely associated with the tea ceremony. It felt more like pottery

than cooking. Rolling small lumps of colored bean and mountain potato dough in my hands, enclosing one within another until I had white ball with a green tint showing through one side. I then marked out 16 lines with a triangular tool, shaped petals with a blunt pin and, finally, used a wooden mold to shape the heart of a chrysanthemum. Well, mine wasn't very convincing, but Mr. Myojin's model was wonderful. In wagashi, seasonal presentation is paramount, and the colors and shapes may take the form of maple leaves in autumn, snowy peaks in winter, and clear pools filled with colorful fish in spring.

Next, I made kuzukiri. I was given starch from the root of the kudzu, a plant famous in America for swallowing vast tracts of southern forest. I dissolved it in water, filled the bottom of a pan two millimeters deep with the milky

solution, and set it in boiling water. In seconds it turned transparent and I submerged it in a bowl of ice water. I loosened the edges with a knife, lifted the square of jelly out by hand and folded it three times before cutting it into noodles and sliding them into a glass. The entire thing took less than two minutes. With a little brown sugar syrup, it was refreshing but hard to get at. My wife raised the glass and downed it like a shot. One interesting thing Mr. Myojin pointed out is that Japanese confectionery is virtually unique in using no oils or fats. Sugar is used sparingly if at all, and the sweets are best enjoyed in a quiet moment with a bowl of green tea. Healthy, in a word, and a far cry from the five-layer cream cakes and lurid yellow banana puddings my grandmother made, though Mr. Myojin assured me he liked western sweets as well.

We also stopped by Miyoshino, a small shop in the heart of downtown that opened in 1950. The shop is family owned and run. The interior is a cool, quiet space shaded by the plants outside the front window, where you can savor Miyoshino's own seasonal varieties of wagashi alongside a cup of matcha tea. The shop is also popular with locals that know it's here for its wonderful monaka, bean jam enclosed in crispy rice wafers. An excellent secret hideaway.

One last thing. If you'd like to try a sampling of Hiroshima's sweets shops, you may want to use the city's Hiroshima Sweets Taxi service. Picking up at Hiroshima Station and most of the city's hotels, they will send a driver to take you on a two hour circuit of seven well-known shops around town, offering both wagashi and western style sweets for 6,800 yen, for up to four passengers (but not the sweets themselves !) Longer courses are available if you want more time. Ask someone to arrange the cab for you if your Japanese skills are limited, but once you're in the cab, the route is fixed, so there shouldn't be any problems.

Kagura: Hours 9:30-6:30, closed Tuesday. Address: 2-11-18 Kogo-kita, Nishi-ku 733-0821 Telephone: 082 208 0877 Miyoshino Hours 10:00-7:00, closed Wednesday. Address: 8-3 Hatchobori Naka-ku 730-0013, p.26 1 Telephone: 082 221-3441 Hiroshima Sweets Taxi: Use any of these three telephone numbers to make a reservation (JP). The first two are good between 9am and 5pm, and the third is staffed 24 hours a day. 082-278-5522, 082-292-9000, 082-252-8180

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2014

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goto izumi's deep hiroshima vol.

純喫茶

Words and photos by Goto Izumi

translation by Paul Walsh

Junkissa

Some people know that I, Goto Izumi, am one of Japan’s foremost junkissa fans. Others, of course, haven’t the slightest idea. Anyway, on my travels around the country I always try and seek out and share with the world the delights of Japan’s junkissa. Why do do I do it? I like them, that’s why. So, what exactly is junkissa?

"I'm a big fan of junkissa"

Strictly speaking a junkissa (made up of the characters for pure (jun) and the abbreviation for coffee shop or kissaten (kissa)) is a cafe that does not serve alcohol. In other words, a cafe in the purest sense. These days, however, in common parlance the term junkissa refers to Japan’s remaining Showa-era old style coffee shops.

Oh, to hear a foreign visitor utter those words! Such a guy would surely be the toast of Japan’s women. It’s just something you never hear. How cool would that be? So, traveling menfolk, if you truly want to turn the heads of the fair ladies of Japan, take Goto Izumi’s advice and head straight for the junkissa. On taking your seat, say the following, “Hotto kudasai” ホットください

Unlike Starbucks, Tully’s or other modern coffee shop chains, junkissa brim with romanticism, drama, pathos, culture and history. You won’t find a macchiato or, heaven forbid, a Frappachino™ on the menu in a junkissa, but your be coffee may be accompanied by a boiled egg or a bowl of peanuts. Most junkissa welcome smokers and more often than not they will serve great food and desserts. It may be difficult for someone who hasn’t spent a great deal of time in Japan to fully appreciate the place that the junkissa has in my heart and in the hearts of those who love them, but if you profess to be a fan of Japan I heartily urge you take the opportunity to visit a junkissa or two.

This is how one orders a hot coffee in a junkissa. Should you want an iced-coffee “reikou” (レイコー) is the way to go. Get these key phrases down to mark you as a professional. Let’s now turn to Goto Izumi’s top 3 Junkissa picks...

Chamonix Montblanc 3-17 Horikawa-cho, Naka-ku, p.26 5 Nakamura-Ya 1-5-15 Sakai-machi, Naka-ku, p.28 2 Fuji 4-20 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku, p.28 1

Goto Izumi http://gotoizumi.net International performance artist. Goto Izumi promotes avant garde events, is the owner of Organ-za, works in radio, as an MC and also makes films. Her greatest love, however, is discovering underground culture that tickles her fancy. Organ-za（ヲルガン座）1-4-32 Tokaichi-cho, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi / 082-295-1553 http://www.organ-za.com / organzainfo@gmail.com

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Entry level junkissa

Intermediate level Junkissa

Expert level junkissa

Gorgeous Showa Paradise Junkissa

Classic High Class Junkissa

This is the one - a true Japanese Junkissa

Chamonix Mont Blanc

Nakamura-ya

Fuji

(シャモニーモンブラン)

(中村屋)

(ふじ)

An archetypal junkissa with drinks, food and desserts. Open long hours and in a great location. Somewhat unusually, Chamonix Mont Blanc has a full English menu and English speaking staff, making it the perfect introduction to Japan’s junkissa.

This place may not look like anything special from the outside, but step through the door and you find yourself in a completely different world to that outside. It’s like you’ve walked onto an opera set. The furnishings, from the seats to the chandeliers that hang from the ceilings, are all put together with a great sense of style. The coffee is really good here, and you can eat lunch for as little as ¥500.

Fuji has been in business in the same location for over half a century. There are no menus on the tables, only at the counter. The elderly couple that run the place speak not a lick of English. It is only good manners to master, at a minimum the phrases hotto kudasai (see p.46) and toire wa doko desu ka (Where is the toilet?) before moving up to this level. Fuji is a place to which very few tourists have ever ventured.

Izumi's menu recommendations

Croquette lunch (コロッケランチ) ¥500 A very hearty serving for such a low price. Many of the components of this set lunch are homemade and it’s a great opportunity to savor the taste of miso soup made just like your mum used to make. Coffee (コーヒー) ¥330 The price of coffee in Nakamuraya has remained unchanged for 30 years! They serve a really good cup of coffee and I love the specially ordered saucers which bear the shop’s name.

Cola (コーラ) ¥380 I love that this is served in the kind of glass that you rarely see these days. The lemon brings it up a level. Tropical fish ¥0 (only looking please) Displaying very expensive tropical fish in your kissaten was once a kind of status symbol, but it’s not something you see so often any more. This is the place to sip coffee while watching tropical fish - genuine Showa-chic.

Izumi's menu recommendations Italian Spaghetti ¥650 + tax What would usually be called Napolitan, a very typically Japanese spaghetti dish, but very tasty. It looks simple, but it also contains a good amount of vegetables and bacon. Purin A Ramoodo (Le Pudding A la Mode) ¥600 + tax The quintessential junkissa dessert. Chamonix Mont Blanc’s custard dessert is homemade and tastes great. It looks really cute too.

Other notable mentions Curry with breaded pork cutlet ¥800 + tax This is their most popular dish among customers from overseas Cream Soda ¥500 + tax A soft drink with a dollop of ice cream, The standard color is green. Uji-shigure ¥600 + tax Wonderful on a hot day. With lots of matcha green tea and sweet anko beans it’s a taste of Japan.

The time is now!

I truly believe from the bottom of my heart that Japan’s junkissa are the classiest of places. Due to the advanced age of most of their proprietors, these wonderful vestiges of Japan’s post war past are closing one after another. If your interest has been even slightly peaked by this introduction I urge you to go and try them out while they are still around. You won’t regret it, and who knows, the next time you find yourself in this part of the world, Japan’s junkissa may well be a thing of the past. — WWFJ (World Wide Fund for Junkissa)

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Not Just a Laff Hospitality おもてなし has become a buzz word in Japan as the country revs up to welcome increasing numbers of overseas tourists. In 2013, there were 10 million visitors from abroad and the latest target is for 20 million by the year of the Tokyo Olympics in 2020. We like to brag that Hiroshima has a particularly wonderful and welcoming community. The city's tragic history as well as Hiroshima's recent landslide disaster show how supportive people in our community are of one another. Government hospitality targets aim at making the country more accessible to visitors by creating bilingual maps and signs. Although we definitely agree that this is necessary, it's nice to hear that there are some Hiroshima locals reaching beyond translation. Ippeisan, the owner of Laff hair design, is a great example of someone thinking outside the box.

LAFF hair design (English) Tel: 082-504-7636 http://laff-hair.com/ p.26 [A-3] 4

those selfies around Japan. Honestly, if you haven't had the salon treatment in Japan- you're in for a treat! Laff has a great team and due to Ippei's international training and experience, they work with different hair types with ease. It is also one of the only salons to offer an al fresco haircut experience in their beautiful little garden. It's not only the quality of the salon that makes Laff unique, Ippei has always been passionate about being more than just a hairdresser. After growing up in Hiroshima, he did his training in Tokyo and London. He then came back to Hiroshima to open his own salon with his high school sweetheart at 'Laff' near Peace Park. Why 'Laff'? Ippei says he chose the name because it's cheerful and fun (like 'laugh'). He chose to set-up near Hiroshima's most visited spot in order to provide a service accessible to foreign visitors as well as Japanese. Laff is a great success, but Ippei is always thinking about ways to become more than "just" a hairdresser. Last year, he was offered a chance to volunteer in Cambodia. His experience at an orphanage seemed to be completely life changing. Upon his return, he had a keen sense that normal, modern lives are too wasteful, "we just don't need all this stuff!

On the surface, Laff is simply a great hair salon catering to both Japanese and international customers. A highly recommended stop if you want to become the envy of your friends back home by looking fab in all

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Cambodian youth he worked with. He is starting to envision a project that could help people in Hiroshima as well as Cambodia. As you may know, Japan is struggling with decreasing youth and increasing elderly. The imbalance is becoming more and more of a problem each year. In fact, many small towns across Japan are turning into "retirement villages" where the average age of residents is over 60. These areas are now a priority for "revitalization projects" to keep them from becoming ghost towns. Couple this with Ippei's desire to help underprivileged youth in Cambodia who are in great need of skilltraining, and you may be able to guess his plan. Ippei has an eye on renovating an old Japanese house in the countryside as a home stay and training base. This would not only provide a place for trainees to stay, but also provide a lively, quality salon service to people in a town on the brink of extinction. The Laff team is always thinking of ways to enjoy their working life, but also to connect the comfort and needs of the individual with a better community. I think it's a good omen that we talked of all of these exciting plans while sitting next to a beautifully lush Momiji tree in the Laff garden. It's quite a symbolic place to discuss sprouting new dreams.

He will make another trip back to this orphanage this year with his family and Laff crew, not only to volunteer, but also to establish stronger ties with some of the

Matt’s Moment “Summer's End” Words: Matthew Mangham / Illustration: Naomi Leeman

utumn in Hiroshima is a delight, but a jewel box of a season that arrives late and soon gives way to winter. If this is your first visit, you’ve chosen an excellent time, as there are

fewer travelers on the move and summer’s heat is becoming a fading memory.

One of Japan’s most spectacular destinations for autumn scenery is the island of Miyajima. Even before you consider the trees, the historic architecture is at its best in this season. The bright reds of Itsukushima Shrine, its famous torii gate shimmering on the water, and the shadowed recesses of Senjokaku hall glowering overhead. Be sure to make your way up to Daishoin Temple, where you’ll find some of the most beautiful views on the island. On Miyajima on November 15th, there’s a fire walking ceremony which starts around 11 am. The ceremony is a fun way to see Buddhism in action, a welcome change from stumbling through temples wondering what it all means. You're welcome, even encouraged, to get in line and join the hot coal walking ceremony for free. But let’s get back to those Miyajima trees. As the entire island is sacred, felling lumber is forbidden, so as a result, the flanks of Mt. Misen are blanketed in nearvirgin forest. You’ll see the full autumn palette here, from washes of rust and red, to veins of gold and silver. The real treasures are the Japanese momiji maples. Different creatures entirely from the great, shaggy trees I knew in Vermont, these are trembling little flares of color shading from green to scarlet and even dusty

purples. Momiji-dani koen is a prime spot. At the peak of the season in November, you should expect to share the view with quite a few others. In Hiroshima city, Mitaki Temple located northwest of downtown is another excellent place to savor a Japanese autumn. And likely to be less crowded even on weekends. The Japanese phrase “Shokuyoku no Aki”, is often translated as "Autumn is for eating". Seasonal favorites include Kurigohan (rice cooked with chestnuts), Kaki (persimmons) ripe to bursting, fat little Kabocha pumpkins, bubbling Nabe stews seething with meat and vegetables, and grilled silver Pacific saury served with grated daikon and miso soup. Fragrant Matsutake mushrooms are also a sought-after classic autumn flavor, but can be extremely expensive. Hiroshima’s famous oysters also shouldn’t be

missed. Don’t forget dessert, enjoy an array of wagashi with a cup of bitter matcha green tea. Wagashi shops outdo themselves trying to capture the essence of the season in chestnut-laden sweets. There should be more than enough to keep you well fed while you're in town. Nov 15th is also Shichi-go-san (7-5-3), a Shinto rite of passage for three, five and seven-year-old children. On this day, you may be rewarded by the sight of little ones decked out in kimono, clutching their parents' hands as priests offer prayers for their health and happiness. The kids are given a special treat on this day, a long, colorful paper bag filled with a stick of Chitose Ame (Thousand-year Candy) meant to symbolize long life. It's a great town, and a wonderful time of year. Enjoy your stay.

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45 bis awa | quarante-cinq bis awa | Everyone is welcome at this roadside standing “bubble bar” and grill. Enjoy Champagne, wine, beer, etc with some char-grilled dishes, hot off the flames. The charcoal grill brings out the full flavor of our high quality ingredients. Prices are so reasonable you could pop in every day.

menu includes

Charcoal Grill Yakitori Tapas

¥190 + tax~ ¥480 + tax~ ¥300 + tax~

address

1-18, Fukuro machi, Naka ku, Hiroshima tel

082.545.0450 business hour

17:00-23:30

45 | quarante-cinq | A bistro in the heart of the city, 45 has a great selection of wine, including many varieties of Natural Wine or Vin Naturel, known as “Bio Wine” in Japan. Pair a glass or two with dishes from our wide selection of foods on the menu. Why not treat yourself to homemade Italian salsiccia sausages, Hiroshima oysters or some of our many dishes featuring locally grown vegetables. Popular dishes

Salad Niçoise Homemade Italian sausage (pork, lamb, beef) Duck confit with potatoes

address

1-18, Fukuro machi, Naka ku, Hiroshima tel

082.545.1225 business hour

11:30-23:30

NINNIKUYA MANAO | ninnikuya manao | A real taste of Thailand prepared with authentic Thai ingredients and cooking methods. our Thai chef has worked in the kitchens of some of Bangkok’s most popular restaurants and prides himself in his use of super fresh herbs to create perennial Thai favorites like green papaya salad, tom yum soup, fresh spring rolls and massaman curry. Real Thai flavors right here in Hiroshima! menu includes

Green papaya salad Tom yum soup Gai yaang Vietnamese spring roll Green curry

¥1,080 + tax ¥1,480 + tax ¥880 + tax ¥380 + tax ¥880 + tax

address

Tatemachi build. 2F, 6-11, Tatemachi, Naka ku, Hiroshima tel

082.240.0229 business hour

11:30-14:00 / 17:30-23:00

¥680 + tax ¥500 + tax ¥1,800 + tax

“Hiroshima’s famous oysters, fresh and delicious”

Kanawa Kakifune Oyster boat

KAKI GOZEN (¥4,514 / inc. tax

and service charge) Lunch time only

Enjoy high quality cuisine and service to match, on a floating restaurant. Kanawa’s kakifune boat is one of the kind that once used to ship oysters from local waters to markets in Osaka.

PEACE PARK

Lunch 11:00-14:00 (L.O.) Dinner Monday-Saturday 17:00-21:00 (L.O.) Sunday & National Holidays 17:00-20:30 (L.O.) Ote-machi 3 chome, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi (082-241-7416) Just south of Peace Memorial Park Map p.29 [A-4]

KAISEKI Oyster course (lunch and dinner) ¥5,940 Various course menu available from ¥5,940

Kaki Meian Oyster Bar

Oysters in season from Hiroshima and around the world. Enjoy a single raw oyster or choose from a variety of specialities that pair well with our wine and sake. 11:00-22:00 (L.O. 21:30) One fresh oyster from ¥280 (+ tax),

6F Hiroshima Station ASSE Building (082-263-7317) map p.30 [E-2]

we have a lot of different kinds of oysters.

Raw oyster & wine set

HIROSHIMA STA TION

¥1300 (+ tax) 11

ASSE Kanawa

A more casual dining space serving oyster dishes and other local specialities such as anago-meshi conger eel on rice and Takehara beef. Standard seating and Japanese hori-gotatsu style tables with sunken floor available. 11:00-22:00 (L.O. 21:30)

6F Hiroshima Station ASSE Building (082-263-3296) map p.30 [E-2]

Enjoy a set includ ing steak from Tak eh ara (Hiroshima Pref.), tempura and oyster rice for ¥2 900 (+ tax)!

A AIRPORT

HIROSHIM

Kanawa Hiroshima Airport Order local and internationally sourced oysters from a single serving and up. Beautifully prepared sashimi platters, nabe hot pots and stacked boxed meals and other dishes also available. 08:00-L.0 20:00 / 3F Hiroshima Airport (0848-86-8330) those from the Compare Hiroshima oysters with 0 (+ tax) ¥250 plate er Oyst ! world the rest of

English menus and ma jor credit cards accepted at all locations. www.kanawa.co.jp

Enjoy the best al fresco dining experience in the city, on the Motoyasu riverside, opposite Peace Memorial Park. High quality Italian cuisine made with locally sourced produce. Sample Hiroshima's delicious oysters. Breakfast, lunches, coffee, cocktails and fine dining. Refresh yourself with a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. Why not enjoy one of our 10 kinds of delicious gelato by the river?

Weekdays 10:00-22:00 Weekends and holidays 08:00-22:00

A-BOMB DOME

PEACE PARK

su Motoya Bridge

Open from 07:30 every day in August 1-9-21 Otemachi, Naka-ku

Hondor

082-247-7471 www.caffeponte.com