GetHiroshima Mag Spring 2017 by GetHiroshima

BE MORE THAN A TOURIST

Seasonal

Going Out

Visitors

Destinations

Festivals

Dining & Nightlife

Maps

Iwami

Hanami

Events

Sights

Miyoshi

Go-shuin-cho

Art

Getting Around

Sanko-sen

THE SPRING ISSUE 2017

getting around

Streetcar lines Hiroden Line #1 (Hiroshima Station > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #2 (Hiroshima Station > Miyajima-guchi) Hiroden Line #3 (Hiroden Nishi Hiroshima > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #5 (Hiroshima Station > Hijiyama-shita > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #6 (Hiroshima Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #7 (Yokogawa Station > Hiroden Honsha mae) Hiroden Line #8 (Yokogawa Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #9 (Hatchobori > Hakushima) Astram Line (Hondori > Koikikoenmae)

Asa Zoo

Meipuru~pu bus

(Kamiyasu)

Limousine bus (Hiroshima City > Hiroshima Airport) ori

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World Heritage Route (boat) (Peace Park > Miyajima)

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higa

Yasu

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Bish

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Oma

Chorakuji

Matsuyama Super Jet Ferry

ichi

Furu

JR Ferry and Matsudai Ferry to Miyajima

Tomo Obara

Nakasuji

Transport Museum

Tomochuo

(Chorakuji)

Ozuka

JR Train Lines Nishihara

Astram Line fares vary according to distance.

Koikikoenmae

¥190~480

Big Arch Stadium

Gionshinbashikita

Ushita

Station JR

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Shinkansen Station Hiroshima Station JR

¥110

Hakushima

Hiroshima Station

Katei Saibansho-mae Shukkeien-mae Jogakuin-mae Kamiyacho Higashi

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isu

c a-

i-m

Matoba cho

Hatchobori

Okonomi-mura mae

Nisseki byoin mae

Hiroden Honsha mae

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Minami machi 6-chome

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The flat fare for inner city travel on the streetcare is ¥160 (child ¥80)

¥160

Moto-Ujina-guchi

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Ujina 2-chome

Hiroshima Port

Miyajima

Matsuyama

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The fare for travel on Miyajima bound streetcars varies according to distance. (¥260 to Miyajima)

i-m

ina

Eba

Miyajima-guchi

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h ac

Takano-bashi

Funairi-kawaguchi-cho

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Shiyakusho-mae

Funairi-saiwai-cho

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Museum of Contemporary Art

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Fukuro-machi Chuden-mae

Mazda Stadium

Hondori Peace Park

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Tate-machi

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ak i nb(Atom hi i ac h i-m mac r i nna Fu i-ho ir na Fu Ge

Kamiyacho Nishi

Funairi-minami-machi Miyajima Guchi JR

Line

Hakushima Line, All Destinations,

Bus Center

h -c

Tokaichi machi

Nishi Hiroshima Station JR

Sanyo Main

Shin-Hakushima Johoku

Kencho-mae

Betsuin-mae

(Ushita)

Museum of Art

Yokogawa 1-chome e

in nL

Big Wave

Hakushima

Yokogawa Station JR

Yokogawa Station

(Fudoinmae)

Hakushima

Shin

Kabe Line

Mitaki JR

Mitaki Temple

Fudoin Temple

Fudoinmae

(Koikikoenmae)

GetHiroshima Mag Issue 13 March, 2017 Circulation 10,000 copies Published quarterly by GetHiroshima Next issue June, 2017 Printed by Hiroshima Chuo Printing Co., Ltd. Motoaki Tahara

WELCOME Spring is here, or at least, on its way. It’s a fantastic time to be in Japan and in Hiroshima. Ume plum blossoms accompany hina matsuri doll displays as winter gives its final gasps. The sakura cherry and equally beautiful peach blossoms follow. Then come the warm temperatures and blue skies of May. Hiroshima is bracing itself another record setting tourist season, so while, as always, we urge you to enjoy the charms of the city and sights of Miyajima, we also encourage you strike out and head into the hinterland. This issue, our focus is to the north. We were pleasantly surprised by Miyoshi, an area we had hitherto overlooked and are sure you will enjoy it too. Ohnan looks astoundingly pretty in spring, while exploring the hot spring corridor to Hamada and the dramatic Iwami coast is a great way to get off the beaten track. Those with time on their hands should consider taking the last opportunity to enjoy viewing this lovely part of Japan through the windows of the Sanko-sen single track train line which is seeing its final hanami season.

Editor-in-chief Paul Walsh

春もすぐそこまで迫り、日本、そして広島を訪れる絶好の機会です。冬の終わりを告げるように、ひな祭りと共に梅の木が花を咲かせます。後に続くように、桜や桃の花も咲き誇り、5月の青空と暖かい季節がやってきます。今年は、例年に加え、観光客の増加が見込まれる中、日頃から発信している広島市の魅力や宮島の名所ももちろん、普段とは違う魅力を発見できる場所に、少し足を延ばしてみるのもオススメです。それが、いま注目の北部エリア。今回の取材によって、私たちはこれまで見逃してきた三次に心行くまで驚かされました。春に驚くほど美しくみえる邑南町、温泉回廊で賑わう浜田の探索や、目に焼き付くほど絶景の石見海岸などは、都会から離れて、ゆっくりした時間を過ごすにはうってつけの場所。この春は、来春に廃線が決定している一両編成の三江線の車窓から見える、この美しい景色を眺める最後の機会です。

Paul Walsh

Editorial assistance JJ Walsh Kismet Cordova Ayaka Terao Design team NININBAORI http://nininbaori.co.jp/ Art Direction: Judith Cotelle Contributors Kismet & Damien Cordova Amy Jensen Isaacs Goto Izumi Matt Jungblut Matt Mangham Alex Rey Linda Sue jjwalsh Noriko Yamamoto Photography Judith Cotelle Jumpaei Ishida Goto Izumi Matt Jungblut Kazuyuki Nakano Alex Rey Linda Sue Hanako Suzuki Mish Vampiro jjwalsh Paul Walsh

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GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

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CONTENTS 02 / Getting Around 03 / Welcome 04 / Contents 05 / GetHiroshima Picks 06 / Festival Focus 09 / Kagura 24 / News 25 / Art 26 / Okonomiyaki 28 / City Maps 33 / Place Listings 38 / Eat the day! 54 / My Town 55 / Matt’s Moment

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FEATURES 10 / Hanami in Hiroshima Everyone’s favorite time of year. Your guide to enjoying the cherry blossom in Hiroshima.

40 / Go-shuin-cho Beautiful, traditional and meaningful mementoes of your time in Japan. Linda Sue

12 / Miyoshi: Dolls, yōkai, origami and sharks Finding off the beaten track gems in the north of Hiroshima prefecture.

44 / All aboard! Last call for the Sanko-sen This time next year, one of the region’s most picturesque train lines will be closed. Catch it while you can. Yamamoto Noriko.

16 / Exploring Iwami Take the hot spring corridor through the mountains to the Japan Sea coast.

48 / Goto Izumi’s Deep Hiroshima Goto Izumi goes in search of a Hiroshima counter-culture.

20 / Colors of Ohnan Ohnan in Shimane prefecture bursts into bloom during spring.

52 / Eating the stars Hiroshima’s only 3 Michelin star restaurant. Surely you can’t go wrong. Matt Jungblut

GetHiroshima picks You’ve been to the Peace Memorial Park and Miyajima. What next?

PEACE PAGODA

FAN FANTASTIC

KAGURA

Walk up Mt Futaba from Tōshō-gū shrine along a path that takes you under 100 red torii gates through an old growth forest to great views from the Peace Pagoda at the top.

Love for the Hiroshima Carp is unequivocal. Baseball fan or not, a home game is always memorable. Soccer lovers can enjoy the Japanese stadium experience at a Sanfrecce game.

Ancient myths and folktales performed in extravagant costumes to frenetic drum rhythms, complete with dry ice, fireworks and exploding cobwebs. City center shows at Kenmin Bunka Center on Wednesdays from April. (See p. 9 for more details).

MITAKI TEMPLE

EAT!

SHIMIZU GEKIJO

Cure Kyoto “temple fatigue” and calm the soul in the gorgeous verdant grounds of Mitaki Temple, 20min walk up the hill from Mitaki station (3 stops from Hiroshima on the Kabe Line).

Okonomiyaki (p.26) is both a meal and a culinary performance. Oysters and tsukemen cold noodles in spicy dipping sauce are also local specialities. Wash it all down with some great local sake.

Step into the world of Japanese vaudeville performed by itinerant troupes with very loyal fans. 3hr shows at 12pm & 6pm (¥1900) or catch the 1hr finale for just ¥1000. http://bit.ly/shimizugekijo

SHUKKEIEN GARDEN

ISLAND HOP

OUT ON THE TOWN

Wander through the miniature landscapes in this city center garden or take a seat by the lake and watch the koi carp, turtles and birds. Lovely rain or shine.

Hiroshima Port is the gateway to the islands of the Inland Sea. Sleepy Ninoshima is the nearest. Don’t have great sea legs? Stroll the Ujina waterfront or walk over to Moto-ujina island.

We urge you to eat, drink, and yes, make merry with Hiroshima people. It’s only then that you can get a real appreciation of what a special place Hiroshima is and truly feel its message of peace. GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

/05

Spring Festivals Hina doll displays, glorious cherry blossoms, festival-packed Golden Week, Shinto and Buddhist rites, and the first fireworks of the year: Spring is a great time for festivals around Hiroshima, and, weather permitting, many wonderful days out are to be had.

Temperatures may still be low, but when “Girl’s Day” comes around on March 3, we know that the worst is behind us and spring is on its way. Beautiful dolls that feature in the generally private Hina-matsuri, are displayed publicly in historical towns throughout the month. A visit to Miyajima at this time of year may well coincide with rituals at either Itsukushima Shrine or Daishoin Temple. Less traditional, but hugely attended, is the three day Flower Festival; one of many events that vie for your attention during Golden Week.

KIYOMORI FESTIVAL / 3/26 - MIYAJIMA

Miyajima pays tribute to the the 12th century samurai clan leader Taira-no-Kiyomori, the man responsible for Itsukushima Shrine’s stunning design. A Heian period costume parade makes its way from the ferry terminal, through Itsukushima Shrine, and ends at Kiyomori Shrine. Starts at 12 noon.

KINTAIKYO BRIDGE FESTIVAL / 4/29 - IWAKUNI

The return from the capital Edo, of the local lord and his retainers is re-enacted in an elaborate costume parade over Iwakuni’s impressive 5-arch Kintai Bridge. Samurai shooting display, lots of food stalls and a huge flea market make this festival a great way to kick off the Golden Week holidays.

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FLOWER FESTIVAL / 5/3-5 - HIROSHIMA

Over a million people flood into Hiroshima for the Flower Festival when Peace Boulevard is taken over by parades, stalls and stages. Paradeless Day 2 feels least crowded, but the yosakoi dance parade on Day 3 provides great photo opportunities. Don’t miss the candle display in Peace Park after dark.

MITAMA FESTIVAL / 5/26-28 - GOKOKU-JINJA SHRINE (5/28 CHILDREN’S SUMO)

This 3-day festival for the souls of the war dead enshrined at Gokoku-jinja Shrine, was first held on 1975 on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of Showa Emperor Hirohito’s reign. Saturday night is the highlight with dances featuring a hundred “shrine maidens” as well as Japanese taiko drumming and kagura.

BENTENJIMA FIREWORKS FESTIVAL / 5/27 18:40-20:30 - TOMO-NO-URA, FUKUYAMA

Summer comes early to Tomo-no-ura with the region’s first big fireworks display of the year. A visit to this medieval fishing port is highly recommended at any time of the year. The usually sleepy town is busier than usual, but it’s a beautiful show. (30 min by bus from Fukuyama JR Station ) GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

/07

MIMI EAR FESTIVAL / 3/3 - OYAMA SHRINE, INNOSHIMA, ONOMICHI Since 1956, March 3 has also been “National Ear Health Day” (in Japanese “ear” is mimi, and “three” is mi, so 3/3 is…) At Oyama Shrine on Innoshima, worshipers visit the shrine of the god of healthy ears, which is adorned with giant ear pillows, through a giant ear cut-out. Kagura dance, Japanese drumming and hula performances too. Starts at 13:30

HINA DOLL FESTIVALS / TOMO-NO-URA, TAKEHARA, MIYAJIMA March 3 is Hina Matsuri or “Girls’ Day” when households blessed with daughters put up elaborate displays of ornamental hina-ningyou dolls in medieval court dress. In early spring, Tomo-noura, Takehara and Miyajima display antique dolls to the public in historical buildings - a worthwhile addition to a visit to these fascinating places. © Ruma views

FIRE WALKING RITUAL / 4/15 - 11AM - DAISHO-IN TEMPLE, MIYAJIMA © Lance Cpl. Benjamin Pryer

Arrive ahead of time to ensure a good view of this Shingon Buddhist ritual at Daisho-in Temple on Miyajima. Sutras are chanted from 11am and crowds gather before 1pm for the ritual lighting of the pyre of cypress branches. Around 2pm the head monk and mountain priests, followed by members of the public, make the walk across the embers.

DOWNTOWN SAKE FESTIVAL / MID MAY - ALICE GARDEN, HIROSHIMA An excellent opportunity to try a wide range of Hiroshima’s top quality sake produced by its many small breweries. You can buy a strip of 5 tickets, but most people go for the all-you-can-try refillable sake cup (a nice little souvenir) and the atmosphere gets increasingly lively as the night goes on.

MIBU NO HANA TAUE RITUAL RICE PLANTING / 6/4 - KITA-HIROSHIMA This revived rice planting ritual, an hour by car north of central Hiroshima, is said to have roots in the middle ages. Colorfully decorated bulls and saotome (rice planting maidens) in kimono and wide-brimmed sugegasa hats plant rice seedlings in time with the music performed by drummers and flautists.

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|| 2/10-3/20 Hina Doll Festival, Takehara || 2/18-3/20 Hina Doll Festival, Tomonoura || 3/3 Mimi (ear) Festival, Oyama shrine, Innoshima Island || 3/5 Hina-nagashi, Otake || 3/8 Memorial service for kitchen knives, Daisho-in Temple, Miyajima || 3/11-3/12 Hiroshima Port Festival, Ujina || 3/18-4/3 Hina Doll Festival, Miyajima || 3/19-4/2 Izuwa Hina Doll Festival, Ohnan, Shimane || 3/24-4/9 Illuminated cherry blossom night viewing, Shukkei-en Garden || 3/26 Momo peach blossom tea ceremony, Shukkei-en Garden || 3/26 Kiyomori Festival, Miyajima || 4/1,2 4/8,9 Illuminated cherry blossom night viewing, Hiroshima City Botanical Gardens || 4/2 Cherry blossom tea ceremony. Shukkei-en Garden || 4/2 Miyoshi Sakura Matsuri, Ozekiyama Park, Miyoshi || 4/8 11:00 Birth Of Buddha memorial service, Daisho-in Temple, Miyajima || 4/9 Hanamomo Peach Blossom Festival, Ohnan, Shimane || 4/15 11:00 Fire walking ritual, Daisho-in Temple, Miyajima || 4/16-4/18 Noh Performances, Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima || 4/22,23 Onomichi Port Festival || 4/29 Kintai Bridge Festival, Iwakuni || 4/30 Ritual tea picking, Shukkei-en Garden || 5/3,4 Takehara Bamboo Festival, Takehara || 5/3-5 Hiroshima Flower Festival || 5/5 Baby crying sumo, Gokoku Shrine || 5/20-21 Fukuyama Rose Festival, Fukuyama || 5/18 09:00 Empress Suiko memorial ceremony & medieval court dances, Itsukushima Shrine || 5/21 Sanou Mountain King Festival, Onomichi || 5/21-22 Ji-no-hi Festival, Ohnan, Shimane || 5/26,27,28 Mitama Festival, Gokoku Shrine || 5/27 Benten-jima island fireworks festival, Tomonoura || 5/28 10:00 Children’s sumo, Gokoku Shrine www.gethiroshima.com/events

kagura spectacular folk theater for the masses

A giant, multicolored, eight-headed serpent writhes back and forth across the stage, attacking and entwining a sword-wielding hero. Engulfed in smoke, sparks spitting from its multiple jaws, the beast bites, spins and leaps, occasionally snapping at young children brave enough to come to the front of the stage. The hero, of course, eventually triumphs, severing each of the heads in turn, to the delight of the audience.

This is the thrilling conclusion to Yamata-noorochi, a crowd-pleasing tale from Japanese mythology, often performed as the finale at kagura festivals and competitions. Kagura is a diverse art form with a variety of performance styles. That performed in northern Hiroshima and Iwami in Shimane is characterized by energetic dances in elaborate (and heavy) costumes, accompanied by stirring rhythms. While

you may not understand the dialogue, the exciting fight scenes, lots of dry ice, fireworks and lightning-fast costume changes keep the uninitiated entertained. In Hiroshima city, kagura is most often seen at autumn shrine festivals. Every Wednesday, however, troupes come in from the countryside to perform at Kenmin Bunka Center near the A-bomb Dome. Non-Japanese readers are provided with basic English outlines of the two pieces to be performed. There’s also an opportunity to check out the masks and costumes up close and get some souvenir snaps after the show. Those who would like to delve deeper into the world of kagura should make a trip out to Monzenmura Kagura Village in Midorii in Akitakata. Here, around 20 troupes take turns in performing in the “Kagura Dome” and the facility also has restaurants, shops, a hot spring and accommodation.

H I R OSH IMA K AGURA I N HIROSHIM A CITY CE N TE R Every Wednesday Night at

∼Hiroshima Prefectural Citizen’s Culture Center∼ (Rijo Kaikan Kenmin Bunka Center)

SPRING SEASON: April 5, 12, 19, 26 May 10, 17, 24, 31 June 7, 14, 21, 28

300m from Peace Memorial Park Admission: ¥1,000 Doors open: 18:00 First performance: 19:00-19:40 Intermission: 19:40-20:00 Second performance: 20:00-20:40 http://www.rccbc.co.jp/event/kagura/ All seats unassigned. Tickets on sale from 17:00 on day of performance.

Photo session with players and costumes on stage after the show from 20:40

Hanami

Hana no kage / aka no tanin wa / nakari keri Under the cherry-blossoms, None are utter strangers. - Issa

Everything seems better when the cherry blossoms are in bloom. This fleeting season signals the end of winter and is eagerly awaited. Even commuting to work becomes a pleasure along roads and riverside paths trimmed with pink. Just about everyone makes a point of making time for at least one hanami picnic under the trees, and in the more popular spots it’s hard not to make friends. Of course, cherry blossom viewing or hanami is all about meditating on the transience of life while admiring nature’s beauty, but the top spots can get crowded and, as the sake starts to flow, get quite lively. If it is peace and quiet you seek, pack a lunch and claim one of the many riverside clumps of trees too small to be designated as a “spot”. Alternatively, head for the hills in search of wild yama-zakura.

HOW TO HANAMI Basho-tori People often claim the best spots early in the morning, and if you plan to hit a popular spot with more than a few people you might want to follow suit. Blue sheets are ubiquitous, but any sheet wrought in plastic works like it has a force field around it. Pro tip: Respect the sheet by removing your shoes. Be flexible The weather can be exceedingly fickle at this time of year, so if you find yourself in the cherry blossom zone on a gorgeous day, drop all your other plans and make that your hanami day. Layer up You can get some beautiful sunny days during hanami season, but it gets pretty chilly in the late afternoon and after dark.

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Treat yourself Convenience store bento lunches are all very well, but hanami is only once a year, so why not splash out on a nice “hanami bento” from a “depa-chika” in the basement of a department store or from local favorite Musashi? If you are still struggling to appreciate the Japanese bento, pick up a selection of bread, cheese, cold cuts and perhaps a nice bottle of wine. Sake Don’t waste your money on cheapo firewater. High quality local jizake brews are reasonably priced and will impress your neighbors. Trash bags One of the uglier sides of hanami season is the huge amount of trash that gets left behind in parks and on riversides. Don’t contribute to the problem.

mitaki temple

ryuo park

TRACK THE BLOSSOMS The “Cherry Blossom Front” makes its way up from Japan’s southern islands. Forecasts calculated according to the Arrhenius equation are watched carefully, particularly by companies that make and sell bento lunches, for whom the ideal (most profitable) season is one that peaks around the end of the first week of April, when everyone has settled into the new work and school year.

Opening: March 28 Full bloom: April 6 (Forecast at date of publication) http://sakura.weathermap.jp/ [ja]

eba yama park

TOP 5 CITY HANAMI SPOTS Peace Park

Shukkei-en Garden Hiroshima Castle

NIGHT SAKURA Hijiyama Park

Hakushima Kuken-cho

Shukkei-en Garden 3/24-4/9

HANAMI DAYTRIPS cherry blossom

Miyajima Best known for its autumn colors, there are also some lovely cherry blossom spots on the sacred island. Our top recommendations are often surprisingly peaceful. With a bit of luck you and the deer may have them to yourselves. • Yogai-zan Hill • Along Uguisu Nature Trail • Tahoto Pagoda overlooking Itsukushima Shrine • Omoto Park

Kintai-kyo Bridge in Iwakuni

ushita park night time hanami

oshiba park

supermarket

futabayama hakushima kuken-cho

chuo park

hiroshima castle

shukkeien garden

MISSED THE CITY CENTER BLOSSOMS?

peace park

hijiyama park

Japan Mint (Itsukaichi)

Yogai-zan, Miyajima

Haji Dam (Yachiyo)

higashi senda park

GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

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dolls, yĂ´kai, origami and sharks in miyoshi

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Rural Miyoshi in the north of Hiroshima Prefecture is perhaps unlikely to be top of the list on a first visit to Japan, but, if you are serious about getting off the beaten track or looking for a country break, the area has a good deal to recommend it. As so often the case in the Japanese countryside, it’s not just the sights, but the unexpected that make for great memories. On one occasion we found ourselves face to face with a huge, thankfully caged, wild boar. On another, eating lunch in a lively karaoke bar with beer-drinking octogenarians. Aim for the tourist attractions, but be open to whatever you might come across along the way.

In days gone by, its position at the confluence of the three major rivers made the town of Miyoshi a significant trading station. Miyoshi’s commercial center may now be looking a little worn, but the well preserved historical district across the Tomoe Bridge is quite pleasant. Many traditional merchant houses remain, and, along with interesting shops and some nice cafes, you’ll also find sellers of Miyoshi Ningyo dolls for which the town has been known since the mid-seventeenth century. The 1000 cherry trees in Ozekiyama Park overlooking the Go-no-kawa River is the place for local hanami parties during cherry blossom season. It is also in this area where, legend has it, a local samurai was visited by an encyclopedic parade of terrifying yōkai for 30 nights. References to the Inou-mononoke-roku in which the story was later published can be found around the city. There are plans to build a yokai museum, but, for now, ghosthunters have to content themselves with a few exhibits in the Jusaburo Tsujimura Doll Museum which is, unfortunately, an English free zone. Miyoshi’s history actually goes much further back than the Edo period. The Fudoki-no-oka history park contains a large number of burial mounds at least 1400 years old. The attached museum has some great displays, but, again, lacks explanation in English. The grounds, however, are a lovely place for a stroll. For a truly local experience, drop in at karaoke cafe ‘Hana Uta’ just outside the park gates for udon noodles and a singsong.

Converted sake brewery Himiko-kura Akaneko is another atmospheric place to eat. Only open at weekends, it is the homebase of Ugawa Hiroki, author of the popular manga Asagiri-no-miko (‘Shrine of the morning mist’) set in Miyoshi. The restaurant which serves shabu-shabu and other Japanese food and local sake, hosts a monthly event for cosplayers and photographers every 2nd Sunday. Miyoshi is a great destination for families. Little ones unable to partake of the free samples at the winery can hit the playground opposite (there are even a few alcohol-themed things to play on so they don’t feel too left out). North of the city center, the Kimita Origami Museum, housed in a former elementary school, is delightfully quirky. So too, are the oversized roadside cartoon characters which Miyoshi seems to have in abundance. Hirata Farm and Funo Fruitland offer fruit-picking, a favorite Japanese family outing, year round. Also in the winery area is the nicely designed Okuda Genso Sayume Museum. The permanent exhibition displays dramatic landscape paintings by locally-born Nihonga artist Okuda Genso and beautiful ceramic dolls created by his wife Sayume. There are also a couple of interesting special exhibitions being held there this spring (see Page 25). With the Toretta Miyoshi, which has a farmers market, bakery, buffet restaurant and outdoor seating, also in this area you can spend a few pleasant hours here. For those without a car, the 09:45 highway bus from

Hiroshima Bus Center (bound for Miyoshi) makes a stop at the winery area at 11:25 and you can return to Hiroshima from here at 15:45. The fare is ¥1490 one way (departure times and price correct at time of writing). The further you get away from Miyoshi town the more beautiful the scenery becomes. Following along the Go-no-kawa River by car, on the soon to be no more Sanko train line (see page 44), or by bicycle, is lovely. The intrepid can try out kayaks at the Go-no-kawa Canoe Park Sakugi and the 60m Joseidaki Falls are impressive. Route 456 passes old shrines fronted by aged stone torii gates and tiny farming villages tucked into steep valleys on its way to Kannose Gorge. Make sure to stop at the Mori-no-izumi Hot Spring to soak in its silky smooth alkaline waters and the aforementioned origami museum. What about those sharks? Despite being far from the coast, Miyoshi was always able to secure a supply of seafood by river transport. As shark meat, procured from the Japan Sea, takes considerably longer to spoil than other fish, it became the meat of choice for sashimi and at celebratory meals. Visitors from outside the area are often surprised as the word wani means alligator in standard Japanese, but is actually the local word for shark around here.

GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

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卑弥呼蔵主催コスプレイベント

central miyoshi

Himiko-kura Aka-neko

kimita area

ozekiyama park

sakugi area

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fudoki-no-oka park

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Hirata Fruit Farm Miyoshi Fudoki no Oka Park & Folk History Museum Miyoshi Prefectural Park Okuda Genso Sayume Art Museum Torreta Miyoshi Hiroshima Miyoshi Winery Miyoshi Sports Asobi no Okoku Kingdom of Play Miyoshi JR/Bus Station Miyoshi Historical Distric Ozekiyama Park Go-no-kawa Canoe Park Sakugi Joseidaki Falls Kawa-no-eki Josei Michi-no-eki Yumeland Funo Funo Fruitland Kimita Mori-no-izumi Hot Spring Kimita Origami Museum Kannose Gorge

To Matsue

2 3 18

4 5 6

375

7 8

Sa n ko

9 17

Lin

11 12

Gobira

456

Sakugiguchi 12

Koyodo

17 18

14 54

Shikijiki 1 2

Tokorogi

Funasa

Awaya Nagatani

10 Ozekiyama

Miyoshi

Nishi-Miyoshi

Yatsugi

p Ch u goku Ex res s

Gei

To Hiroshima

e Li n bi

To Shobara

183

Shiwachi

11 12

Shimo-Wachi

Miyoshi Historical District Hōgenji Temple Tōchiya “Awayuki” (sweets) Himiko-kura Aka-neko Atelier Momento (dolls) Matsumoto (dolls) Piglet (sweets) Hakuran Shuzō (sake brewery) Mugi Mugi Cafe Miyoshi Community Center Fuukisha Shōhei Honke (sweets) Jusaburo Tsujimura Doll Museum Shōrinbō Temple

Kamisugi 2

Shiomachi

Kami-Kawatachi Mirasaka 卍

i ukue n L

2 3

卍

Ozekiyama Park

卍

Ozekiyama

7 8 10

375 6

卍卍

Bingo-Yasuda

Kisa 45

184

卍

1 卍卍

p chi Ex

卍

i om On

s res

Miyoshi Historical District

Kajita Konu

To Fukuyama

Miyoshi To Higashihiroshima To Onomichi

GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

/15

exploring

iwami

An area steeped in myth where dance troupes in dazzling costumes and fearful masks reenact tales of gods and monsters. Rural scenery and rhythms of life largely unchanged after centuries. Dramatic coastlines, ancient shrines, traditional food prepared with the freshest ingredients, mountain hot springs and stunning sunsets. Iwami can seem worlds away from city life, but in under 2 hours from Hiroshima you can be relaxing in a hot spring or enjoying fresh seafood with an ocean view. Wherever you base yourself, a good deal of what Iwami has to offer can be covered by car in a relatively short time. So, choose your own adventure and explore Iwami this spring.

Top: Hamada sunset Right: Ohnan Bottom: Kagura in Hamada

16\

SENJOEN

MISUMI SUNSET PARK

Okami

Mihomisumi

GARO

Sufu

Orii

HAMADA SUNSET PARK 9

Hamada

Nishi-Hamada MT. TAIMA

SEKISHU WASHI CENTER 9

MISUMI PARK & SHRINE

F re e Highw ay

SANKU SHRINE

MURODANI-NO-TANADA RICE TERRACES

“KAGURA SHOP” KUWANOKI

HAMADA Iwami coastline The beaches along Hamada’s Japan Sea coast are a big draw in the summer. Although in spring most visitors are surfers or fishermen, those not confined by the Japanese convention of going to the beach only during the short swimming season can have the white sand beaches virtually to themselves. Iwami Seaside Park is great for families with a lovely campsite and cottages for rent. Headland walking paths have dramatic views of the rugged coastline. Surfers should head to Kokufu Beach where, at Senjoen hotel, you can also enjoy a bath with an ocean view and a tasty local seafood lunch. Between Kokufu and Iwami Seaside Park is Tatami-ga-ura, a stretch of seabed elevated by an earthquake over a century ago; the interesting geological feature, fossils and rock pools are fascinating. At the eastern edge of Hamada, across the road from beautiful, protected Hashi Beach, is the Shimane Aquas Aquarium, most famous for its beluga whales. It also has a large play park where kids can blow off steam. West along ‘Sunset Drive’ Route 9 is Misumi, home to the excellent Sekishu Washi Center (Japanese paper museum), which has superb

18\

English explanations. Spending an hour making your own paper to take home is highly recommended. Nearby Misumi Shrine is very atmospheric, and in early May the hillside is ablaze with colorful azaleas. Stop in at either Misumi or Hamada rest stops along Route 9 to grab something to eat and gaze at amazing sunsets. Visitors to the Misumi stop can also try and catch an iconic pic of the local train passing in front of the sea. Quaint art gallery Garo sells local pottery and has a lovely old-style Japanese coffee shop. A few kilometers inland, you can spend hours staring out over the Murodani rice terraces. Iwami Kagura Die hard fans of this exciting folk art can watch the full repertoire of 33 traditional tales over two days in Kanagi, March 18 & 19. Those with less stamina can catch 60 minute shows every Saturday in Hamada city’s atmospheric Sanku Shrine for just ¥500. Seeking out the “Kagura Shop” in the Kinta-no-sato complex in Kanagi is also worthwhile, where you can see people embroidering the spectacular costumes by hand. If staying in Hamada city, check out the mechanical kagura clock in front of the station and pop into the little mom and pop kagura-themed izakaya, named ‘Kagura’, around the corner.

Onsen Both of Hamada’s two main onsen “areas”, Asahi and Mimata, are very close to exits on the Hamada Expressway. They may look a little rundown from the outside, but the water is wonderful. The highly alkaline nuru-nuru ‘slippery’ water that leaves the skin sube-sube ‘velvety soft’ is like a beauty treatment. All of Asahi’s four hot spring facilities and Mimata’s two most retro baths are open to daytrippers. The Kanagi Kanko Hotel in Mimata offers 4 hour daytime stays in a Japanese-style room where you can enjoy a 10 course course-seasonal kaiseki meal and use their beautiful bathing facilities for around ¥5000 per person (reservations 3 days in advance required).

Pick up maps and pamphlets at the Hamada Tourism Association near Hamada JR Station. 186 http://www.kankou-hamada.org/

OHNAN

KOKUFU BEACH

TATAMIGAURA IWAMI SEASIDE PARK SHIMANE AQUAS AQUARIUM

Uyagawa

Gotsu

Hashi Shimoko

Kushiro Gotsuhonmachi

amada IC

Chigane

® 幸せのバブルリング

Kawahira

(ETC only)

o Li nk Sa

See p.44 for more about the Sanko Line

Kanagi IC

MIMATA ONSEN

Springtime is gorgeous in Ohnan; just look at our feature on page 20. There is an onsen and shared bath (open to daytrippers as well as overnight guests) a short drive from Mizuho IC. The sharedbath at Ikoi no Mura isn’t technically a hot spring, but offers spectacular views. Kiri no Yu, opposite Koboku no Mori garden, has outdoor herbal baths to enjoy. The attached Restaurant Irodori offers hearty Japanese food in a casual atmosphere. The more refined Ajikura, which serves outstanding Italian dishes, is just a short walk away. Another lunch option is the healthy Japanese buffet at Jomonmura which has a wonderful terrace overlooking Ohochi Basin. Be sure to also sample the delicious gelato at Gelateria Cafe Mui too. Pick up maps and suggested itineraries at the tourist information center at Koboku No Mori. Kawado

ASAHI ONSEN

Asahi IC Tazu

HAMADA Iwami-Kawagoe

DRIVING GUIDE Hamada Station

Aquas

11km (20 min)

10km (20 min)

Kagura Shop Kuwanoki

Mizuho IC

*All times & distances approximate

in) m

5km (15 min)

KIRI NO YU ONSEN

Asahi Onsen

Koboku no Mori

JOMONMURA

in) (15 m 9km

70km (80 min)

18km (15

10k

Mimata Onsen

y Exp

min

)

22km (30 min)

Ham

Misumi Shrine

Hiroshima

105km (100 min)

Mizuho IC

OHNAN

KOBOKU NO MORI GARDEN

ITALIAN RESTAURANT AJIKURA

DANGYOKEI GORGE

IKOI NO MURA SHIMANE

Pick up maps and pamphlets at the Tourism Association at Koboku no Mori Garden (below Craft-kan). http://www.ohnan-kanko.com/english/ E-mail: inbound@ohnan.onmicrosoft.com

20\

Gohongi Cafe

colors of Ohnan

Nature in Ohnan doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t waste any time once temperatures start to rise after the long winter. From mid-March, the whole area bursts into bloom. Tsubaki camellia flowers litter the grounds of Suwa Shrine as the cherry trees start to blossom. Mountainside kobushi magnolias glisten from afar, while daffodils and wildflowers border the roadsides. Life-sized police statues keep watch over fields of rapeseed. And then there is the bold, glorious peach blossom. As spring progresses and the surrounding greenery deepens, the flowers look ever more striking, none more so than against clear blue skies. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a wonderful time to explore the area.

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/21

hana momo (peach blossom) matsuri 花桃 april 9

Kaizumi [川角] is known as the “Closest Village to Heaven”, not only for its elevation, but for the fact that the average age in the tiny community is north of 80. After winding up through the Kandani [神谷] rice terraces, you pop out of a tiny tunnel to find yourself on a mountaintop. Below, hundreds of peach trees, covered with pink and white blossoms, growing on terraces carpeted with bright yellow rapeseed flowers. The planting of the 2000 or so trees began 10 years ago as part of a revitalization effort involving local residents and nearby schools. Kaizumi is one special place and well worth the effort to get there. With food stalls, chindon-ya marching bands and lots of visitors, the festival is Kaizumi’s liveliest day of the year. The blossoms can, of course, be enjoyed in the days before and after too.

22\

ji-no-hi matsuri 次の日祭り may 21-22

This two-day 650 year old festival centered on Kamo Shrine in Asuna [阿須] coincides with the rice planting season. The rites to ensure health and a bountiful harvest begin on the first day with the parading of giant brightly colored umbrellas up and down a narrow street lined with festival stalls. Watching the participants struggle to not only keep their umbrellas upright, but to also avoid bringing down low-hanging electricity lines is quite exhilarating. Kagura dance follows at the shrine. On day two, there is ritual rice planting, fun, games and children’s kagura shows.

GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

/23

S W E N STRETCH THE PAIN AWAY

For those of us internalizing daily tensions or travel related stress leading to stiff muscles, I recommend trying a session at Hiroshima stretch. At first, the friendly and well-trained staff do a short consultation and follow this up with an observational analysis to point out trouble spots. I tried the 60 min session and asked them to

work on stiff shoulders, but didn’t think I had any major issues. The staff, however, then pointed out imbalances in my stance worth working on. The session started like a regular massage but involved more active participation on my part as it went on. The studio is bright and cheerful with pop music playing and the whole facility has the feel of a training center for elite athletes. Some parts of the session were a bit painful, but it was quite an education and I felt much less stiff, healthier and more relaxed by the end. The owner and his staff were friendly, knowledgeable and speak English well. Walk-ins are welcome, but as they are popular, I’d recommend calling or popping by to reserve a slot in advance.

NATURAL, LOCAL, HANDMADE M.SAITo Wood WoRKs (yes, it is written like that) produces simple, beautiful and lightweight crockery and kitchen utensils from solid mountain cherry, chestnut and mulberry trees sourced from the forests of Aki-ota in the north of Hiroshima Prefecture where his workshop is located. Find a range of products at Mono Koto Store or online at www.msaito.net [ja] / Map C p.31 [C-2] 3

Mention GetHiroshima for a ¥5000 60min session (standard price ¥6500) Map C p.31 [B-2]

Free admission

HIROSHIMA LOCAL GOURMET

F E S TA

Sat

7 201

10:00~17:00

& Sun

9 April

70+ food and product booths & entertainment http://www.gourmet-fes.com [JP]

Former site of the Hiroshima municipal baseball stadium

24\

(opposite A-bomb Dome)

ART

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

Hiroshima Museum of Art

End of year holidays: 12/27 to 1/1

End of year holidays: 12/25-1/1

End of year holidays: 12/29 to 1/2

Well-designed building in Hijiyama hilltop park. Interesting

One of the largest art museums in Western Japan with a

Works by Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso and many more great

sculptures and statues are dotted around the outside of the

large collection of Japanese nihonga painting, traditional

modern European painters in this small, but perfectly

museum that can be viewed for free. Map C p.31 [d-3] 7

Asian art crafts and 1920s and 1930s art. Map A p.30 12

formed museum near Hiroshima Castle. Map C p.31 [B-1] 10

10:00-17:00 Admission to the collection exhibition: Adult

09:00-17:00 Admission to the permanent collection Adult

09:00-17:00 Admission to the general exhibition: Adult

¥370, College students ¥270, High school students, seniors

¥510, College students ¥310, High school students and

¥1000, Seniors ¥500, College & high school students ¥500,

¥170, Junior High School and younger free.

younger free.

Junior high school and elementary school students ¥200

082-264-1121 https://www.hiroshima-moca.jp/

082-221-6246 http://www.hpam.jp/

082-223-2530 http://www.hiroshima-museum.jp/

Admission until 30 minutes before closing. Special exhibition charges vary and usually include admission to permanent collections. Closed Mondays (unless National Holiday when closed the following business day).Hiroshima Museum of Art and Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum open everyday during special exhibitions. Ukiyo-e Exhibition of Monsters and Ghosts

SPECIAL EXHIBITIONS

April 24-June 11

Hiroshima Museum of Art Masterpieces from Musée des Beaux-Arts, Reims Feb 11-Mar 26 / Adult: ¥1300, High school & college ¥1000, Gallery G Map A p.30 4

Elementary & Junior high school ¥600 / Includes admission to the general exhibition of modern European art.

Private art space opposite the Prefectural Art Museum which Sōma no furudairi: Princess Takiyasha and the Huge Skeleton by Utagawa Kuniyoshi

holds weekly free exhibitions by local artists, designers and artisans. 082-211-3260

Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art Setoda-cho, Ikuchijima Island, Onomichi city 09:00-17:00

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

Hirayama Ikuo: Prayer for peace

Tadashi Tonoshiki: The Source of a Compelling

March 18 - May 21 / Adult ¥900, High School & College ¥400,

Reversal

Junior High and younger free

March 18 - May 21 / Adult ¥1030, College ¥720, High school and

L’ Avenue de l’Opéra ou Place du Théâtre Français Camille Pissarro 1898, Reims, Musée des Beaux-Arts ©MBA Reims 2015/Christian Devleeschauwer.

Okuda Genso Sayume Art Museum

seniors ¥510, Junior High and younger free Prayer procession In the Holy Place of Lourdes, France 2008

Miyoshi city (see Page 12)

Hand, 1976 Collection of Shimonoseki City Art Museum

Fukuyama Museum of Art

April 1 - May 28 / Adult 1300 yen, High School & College

Morimura Yasumasa Exhibition Until April 2

School & College ¥500, Junior High and younger free

¥900, Junior High and Elementary School ¥500

MORIMURA, Yasumasa «MNB53 On Photographs Vol-3» 1981, Fukuyama Museum of Art

France and Britain: Art for a New Age 1817-1917

1st March - 16th April / Adult ¥1000, Pair ticket ¥1800, High

San Giorgio Maggiore by Twilight, Claude Monet 1908 © National Museum of Wales

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

Yamashita Kioshi: The wandering genius painter

«Fireworks,NAGAOKA» paper-mosaic picture 1950.

09:30-17:00 Closed 2nd Wednesday of the month

09:30-17:00, Closed Mondays except 3/20 when closed 3/21, Adult ¥300, High school and younger free

GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

/25

You ha v en' t d o n e hir oshima if you ha v en't d o n e

Hiroshima Okonomiyaki! Okonomiyaki, a savory pancake cooked on an iron hotplate, containing egg, chopped vegetables, meat and/or seafood is found all over Japan. In Hiroshima, this dish is beefed up by adding noodles and lots of veggies. Rather than mixing all the ingredients together, as in the more common Kansai or Osaka style, here in Hiroshima they are layered. The whole thing is topped with a savory-sweet sauce.

Locals are very proud of their contribution to Japanese cuisine, and regional rivalry, while good natured, is strong. Be prepared to be quizzed about whether you prefer your okonomiyaki Hiroshima or Kansai style. Sitting at the counter of a small okonomiyaki joint (especially if you give the local lingo a try) is one of the best places for the outsider to connect with Hiroshima folk. Okonomiyaki is often described as “Japanese pizza”. The name literally means “cook it how you like” and you can create your own personal okonomiyaki by selecting toppings to add to the standard dish. That’s where the analogy ends however, as the finished dish, while round and flat(ish), tastes nothing like pizza. Described as Hiroshima’s soul food, okonomiyaki began to be widely eaten in the years during and after the war when rice was in short supply, and people

TO P

OF TH E TO P PI

NGS

1. E xtra neg i chopp 2. C ed gree heese n onion s 3. M ochi rice cake 4. Ik aten Frie d dried 5. S squid hiso pe rilla lea f

added extra ingredients to simple wheat pancakes and street stalls selling okonomiyaki sprang up all over the city. Today, there are said to be about 2000 okonomiyaki shops, and a visit to at least one of them is likely to be at the top of any Japanese tourist’s list of things to do in Hiroshima. While it’s fun to mix and cook okonomiyaki on your own hotplate (often possible at Kansai style restaurants), here in Hiroshima, the cooking is left to the professionals. Watching the chef from the counter is like having front row seats at a cooking show.

How to order All Hiroshima okonomiyaki starts with the basic niku-tama, consisting of pork, eggs, cabbage between two thin crepes. Your first choice is which kind of noodles to add - thin soba noodles or thicker udon noodles. State your preference by asking for “niku-tama-soba” or “niku-tama-udon”. If you are really hungry you can opt for a double helping of noodles. Next, choose any additional “toppings” - as likely to go inside as they are on top. Common choices include green negi onions, seafood, mochi rice cake, cheese, korean kimchee, shiso leaf and natto. In winter, local oysters are also often available.

Vegetarians While the eggs rule it out for vegans, at first glance okonomiyaki appears to be promising option for hungry vegetarians. Chefs are generally happy to leave out the pork slices if you ask for niku-nashi (without meat), but most places do use lard and a kind of grease that includes pork stock. Shaved dried fish flakes or dried squid pieces are also likely to find their way into your meal. Strict vegetarians should head to Nagataya at the very end of the Hondori shopping arcade near the

A-bomb Dome; here they have a good appreciation of vegetarian orders and can cook up a completely vegetarian okonomiyaki. Also be aware that Otafuku okonomi sauce contains oyster extract. Seek out shops that use Carp sauce or offer Otafuku’s “From 1 Year Old” (issai kara) sauce.

How to eat Okonomiyaki is traditionally eaten hot (very hot) off the teppan griddle with a metal spatula (hera). The inexperienced diner who takes up the challenge may find their okonomiyaki is dried to a crisp by the time they are finished. It is by no means rude to ask for a small plate and chopsticks. To get a laugh, make your excuses with the expression nekojita nanode. Literally “I have a cat’s tongue” which means you can’t take hot food. It isn’t necessarily a problem to linger at the counter and have some drinks, but be aware of your surroundings. If it is busy and people are waiting to eat, you will be expected to vacate your seats soon after you are done eating.

Aonori (dried seaweed)

Okonomiyaki sauce

Eggs

Soba or udon noodles

Sliced pork

Bean sprouts

Negi green onions

A walk on the wild “sides” Most okonomiyaki shops will have a range of side dishes that can be whipped up on the teppan. You can play it safe and go for something like asparagus wrapped in bacon (bekon no aspara maki), or go for something a little more adventurous.

Tempura crisps

Gyūtan Beef tongue Kaki Oysters Uni horen Sea urchin grilled with spinach Shirako Fish sperm

Chopped cabbage

Horumon-yaki Grilled beef or pork offal Takowasa Chopped raw octopus marinated in wasabi Ika no Shiokara Fermented salty raw squid meat and guts (great with sake or shochu) Ika-natto Slimy natto fermented soy beans with raw egg and squid topped with green onions and wasabi

This is a pretty standard

Dried fish powder

okonomiyaki, but most shops will have their own recipe with different ingredients and combinations. Batter

Mitaki Temple

City map

OSHIBAKOEN

OSHIBA

MISASAKITAMACHI

MITAKIHONMACHI

OSHIBA PARK “Koutsuu Traffic Land”

JR MITAKI STATION

Mit

iba

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MITAKIMACHI

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JR YOKOGAWA STATION

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Yokogawa-eki

inkansen

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HAKUSHIMA KITAMACHI

YOKAGAWACHO

Shin-Hakushima San yo

YOKAGAWASHINMACHI

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TERAMACHI HIROSE KITAMACHI

Jonan-

dori

CHUO PARK

Hirose Primary School

Tera-machi SORAZAYA PARK

HIROSEMACHI

FUKUSHIMACHO

Outdoor Family Pool Open July-August

KAMITENMACHO

ashi

Tera m

MIYAKOMACHI

TOKAICHIMACHI

dori

ori Hiros eb

Legal Administration Office Cinematographic and Audio-visual Library

achi-

NISHITOKAICHIMACHI

Aioi-d

Aioib

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Hiroshima Naka Post Office

HONKAWACHO

SAKAIMACHI

Hirode Tenm n a bashi

KANNONMACHI Nishi-Kannon-machi

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PEACE PARK Motoy asugaw

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Tsuchiya Hospital

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Hiroshima Bank Sumitomo Mitsui Bank

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28\

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Kamiya-cho Nishi Mizuho Bank Rijo Kaikan Sun Mall

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Prefectural Office (Kencho)

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Honkawa Primary School

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Kencho-mae

Bus Center (3F)

Genbaku Dome-mae

Honkawa-cho

Tenma-cho Fukushima-cho

Hiroshima Municipal Hospital

FORMER BASEBALL STADIUM SITE

ENOMACHI PARK

n-do

HANOVER PARK

Kannon-machi

Jona

Tennis courts

HONKAWACHO

Tokaichi-machi

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HIGASHIKANNONMACHI

Immigra Offic

KAMIHATCHOBO Gokoku-jinja Shrine

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Hiroshima Castle

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MT. MITATE

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SHIN USHITA PARK

HIGASHI-KU SPORTS CENTER (BIG WAVE)

Kohei bash

USHITA PARK

Supermarket

Hiroden Streetcar

Post Office

Astram Line Monorail

Tourist Info

Covered arcade

Â¥100 Bicycle Parking

Foreign Currency Exchange

Public Bath

International ATM

Airport Bus

Play area

Meipuru~pu bus

Hiroshima Free Wi-Fi

Hotel

Futaba-no-sato walk

Hiroshima Jogakuin University

USHITAASAHI Ushita Primary School

USHITAWASEDA

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HAKUSHIMA NAKAMACHI PARK

HAKUSHIMA 3 NAKAMACHI

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HAKUSHIMA Ikari Shrine KUKENCHO

USHITHIGASHI

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Peace Pagoda

Kinko Inari Shrine

HIGASHI AKUSHIMACHO

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Teishin Hospital

Onaga Tenmangu Shrine

MT. FUTABAYAMA

Nigitsu Shrine

MT. ONAGA

YAGAMACHI

Toshogu Shrine

Kokuzenji Temple

HIKARIGAOKA

Shokoji Temple

FUTABANOSATO Detention Center

ORI

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HIJIYAMA PARK Hijiyamashita

Geibi Line

Danbara-1chome

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Kyobas

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dan

AWACHO

ENKOBASHICHO

a kog

Momiji Bank

Enkobashi-cho

bas Enko

Kyobashi

H H Kanayama-cho Hiroshima Bank

MATSUBARACHO

EBISUCHO

Hiroshima Bank

Ekim

Ebisu-cho

ukoshi

Hiroshima Station

Fukuya

KYOBASHICHO

HASHIMOTOCHO

WAKAKUSACHO

NOBORICHO PARK

a-do

Kam iy bas anagi hi

Memorial Cathedral for World Peace

NOBORICHO

utsu

-d

Ek o- ima ha e sh i

Noboricho Primary School

TEPPOCHO

NCHI

ori

JR HIROSHIMA STATION

SHINKANSEN

TOBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

KAMI NOBORICHO PARK

Haku shim a-do

uji le

ebas

Saka

Heiw

Noboricho Junior High School

Onaga Primary School

Hiroshima Bank

Shukkeien-mae

ONAGAMACHI

Katei Saibansho-mae

DANBARAHINODE

/29

6 4

Jogakuin Junior High School

Jogakuin High School

Jogakuin-mae

-d

Hiroshima Bank

SHINKANSEN

OSUGACHO Zetsumetsu-Kigishu Jo

-d

WAKAKUSACHO

H 15

3 Hotel Flex

ATAGOMAC

Hiroshima Station

Fukuya

Kam iy bas anagi hi

Memorial Cathedral for World Peace

Sheraton Hotel

JR HIROSHIMA STATION

TOBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

KAMINOBORICHO

ri hima -do Haku s

TEPPOCHO

ashi

Saka

H Noboricho Primary School

ba H

Noboricho Junior High School

KAMI NOBORICHO PARK

Hakata Ramen Michimaru

Shukkeien-mae

station area

Hiroshima Bank

HIGA

MATSUBARACHO

Ek o- ima ha e sh i

KAMIOSUGACHO

SHUKKEIEN GARDEN

Hana Hostel ENKOBASHICHO 2

NOBORICHO

NOBORICHO PARK Hatchobori

HASHIMOTOCHO PARK

Ebisu-cho

Inari-machi

Inarioh

ashi

i i-dor

PARCO SHINKAN

PARCO HONKAN

Fuji Grand Shopping Center

ALICE GARDEN

TSURUMICHO

Takeya Primary School

OKONOMI MURA

MACHI

uru

ae-d

ri do aam jiy

Butsudan-dori

HIJIYAMA PARK

DAN

Hijiyamashita

9 Molly Mallone’s

Merchant of Venice Sky Walk

Escalator 8

7 i Washington Hotel

DON 1 QUIJOTTE

Chuo-dori

Tropical Bar Revolución 12

FUKUROMACHI PARK

Hij

Koba 7

iya

Namiki-dori

Bourbon 3 Square

Vegan Cafe Hijiyamabashi

bas

New King 10

4 Centre Point Danbara Shopping Center

Micks 7

DANBARAYAMAS

DANBARAMINAMI

Choi Choi Ya 4

BILLY THE KID

Aitsuki 1

namiki / nagarekawa area Enryuji Temple (Tokasan)

-d o H

30\

19 Youin 18 5 Hallelujah

Bar Edge Bon Voyage

MINA

DANBARA

KIRIN BEER

HIRATSUKA PARK Kinzagai-dori Hondori

6 Yamatoya

shigaw

HIGASHIHIRATSUKACHO 3 Cinetwin Hondori

Danbara-1chome

Kinzagai-dori

Kyoba

TANAKAMACHI

SHINTENCHI PARK

Yage

i i sh sh ga ba Hi ima Ebisu sh Ebisu-dori 2 Popeye Shrine ro Hi Ebisu-dori Ebisu-dori

YAYOICHO

NISHIHIRATSUKACHO

-d

MATSUGAWA PARK

LABI

HIROSHIMA BANK

Yagenbori-dori

nbor

MITSUKOSHI

FUKUYA

Kanayama-cho

MOMIJI BANK

5 Hatchoza

Suiren Bar & Dining

h ais

Ekim

ori

wa-d

reka

Naga

MATOBACHO

Ebisu-cho

NISHIKANIYA

Hiroshima Mall

/ Densha-dori HAioi-dori Yanagibas hi

YAGENBORI Tate-machi

KAWACHO

INARIMACHI KANAYAMACHO

CHI

Matoba-cho

TENCHI

NISHIKOJINMACHI

RIKAWACHO

HIGASHIKOJINMACHI

kog

Hiroshima Bank

Momiji Bank

EBISUCHO

b Ake 6

bas

jin

H H Kanayama-cho

Mitsukoshi abi

-do

ono

KOJINMACHI

Kyobashi

Nagarekawa-dori

Enko

ori

a-do

KYOBASHICHO

HASHIMOTOCHO

Enkobashi-cho

ashi

B Cinematographic and Audio-visual Library

10 Tennis courts

Legal Administration Office

n-do

Jona

YMCA

Chokakuji Temple

Jogakuin-mae

KYUGUCHIMON PARK Chuo Police Station Prefectural Office East Office

Momiji Bank

Enryuji Temple (Tokasan)

Jogakuin High School

Shukkeien-mae

Jogakuin Junior High School

Noboricho Junior High School

KAMI NOBORICHO PARK

KAMINOBORICHO

KANAYAMACHO

YAYOICHO

ebas

Saka

TOBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

do ri

OSUGACHO

Jo ho ku -

Hijiyamashita

Fukuya

Hirosh Ban

Mato

MATOBACH

MATSUGAWA PARK

Inari-machi

KYOBASHICHO

Kam iy bas anagi hi

Kyobashi

shi

Inarioha

INARIMACHI

i i sh sh ga ba Hi ima sh ro

H Yanagibashi

iba

shigaw

Hijiyamabashi

rum

Kyoba

HIRATSUKA PARK

shi

Ts u

HIGASHIHIRATSUKACHO

NISHIHIRATSUKACHO

Hiroshima Bank

H H Kanayama-cho

HASHIMOTOCHO PARK

HASHIMOTOCHO

Noboricho Primary School Memorial Cathedral for World Peace

NOBORICHO

TEPPOCHO

Takeya Primary School

TSURUMICHO

TANAKAMACHI

i or -d ae

Fuji Grand Shopping Center

Momiji Bank

NOBORICHO PARK

Ebisu-cho

Hatchobori

Mitsukoshi Labi

dori

sha-

Den

HATCHOBORI

EBISUCHO HORIKAWACHO

-dor i

bisu

Fukuya

i-do ri /

Tokyu 15 Hands Tate-machi Aio

de)

arca

TATEMACHI

Hiroshima Municipal Hospital

Kencho-mae Prefectural Office (Kencho)

Kamiya-cho Higashi

1 5

KAMIYACHO

Hiroshima Bank

Bus Center (3F)

SOGO

Mizuho Bank

Kamiya-cho Nishi Rijo Kaikan14 Sun Mall Sumitomo Mitsui Bank

2 HANOVER PARK

FORMER BASEBALL STADIUM SITE

7 5

OTEMACHI 2 Hondori

Mitsubishi Tokyo Hondo r UFJ Bank 4F 4

red

i (co ve

HONDORI

NAKAMACHI

oro

er-d

met

12 Ek

MIKAWACHO NAGAREKAWACHO

aku

FUJIMICHO

d/ Hy

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/ Pe a

ash

Outdoor 1 Family Pool Open July-August

Aioib ashi

Genbaku Dome-mae Hiroshima Naka Post Office

u oyas Mot shi ba

6 4

Crystal Plaza

dori

a-o-

Heiw

KOMACHI

Buts PARCO Hiroshima uda n-do Information ri Former ALICE SHINTENCHI Plaza 5 3 Bank of FUKUROMACHI GARDEN Japan Don Fukuromachi FUKUROMACHI Fukuro-machi YAGENBORI Quijotte SHINTENCHI Primary PARK PARK School H H

1 Dormy inn Chuden-mae

Shirakami Shrine

OTEMACHI PARK 1

wab

PARK

Tsuruya Guesthouse 6

TOKAICHIMACHI

HONKAWACHO

Honkawa-cho

PEACE PARK

a-oh ashi

Heiw

Kokutaiji High School

Hei

HIROSEMACHI

Tokaichi-machi

11 14

Honkawa Primary School

HONKAWA PARK

Ho nk bas awa hi

Tsuchiya Hospital

OTEMACHI

SEIBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

OTEMACHI PARK 2

Hiroshima Chuo Post Office Naka Ward Office

Kokutaiji Junior High School

TAKARAMACHI

Hij iya

ma ba

NISHITOKAICHIMACHI

DOBASHICHO

HONKAWACHO

NEKOYACHO

J-Hoppers

NAKAJIMACHO

4 Ikawa Ryokan

Bunka Koryu Kaikan

Aster Plaza

KAKOMACHI

Shiyakusho mae

KOKUTAIJI PARK

/31

ENOMACHI

ENOMACHI PARK

SAKAIMACHI Koami-cho Dobashi

KOAMICHO

2 KAWARAMACHI

Na Kan kajima zakib ash i

Funairi-machi

Kozaki Primary School Nakajima Primary School

Otemachi Commercial High School

Hiroshima City Hall

TAKEYACHO

ori

ae-d

a-do shim Haku ori

Shin-sum iyoshi bashi

HIGASHI SENDA PARK

Naga

o- ima GetHiroshima / Spring 2017 ha e

Chuo

wa-d

reka

nbor

Yage

ori

iki-d Nam

a) Ta Shopkanobas hi ping Stre et

dori

jiy

i-dor

KAMISHINONOMECHO

SAKI

Ekim

dori

i-dor mach Tera

shiba shi

hi ibas Meij

Takanobashi

Jizo-

Sky Walk Escalator

HIJIYAMA

-dori

NBARAHINODE

UNAIRIMACHI

3 Sum iyo

-do Ozu

AMIKANIYA

awa

Geibi Line

Rijo-

COSTCO

MAZDA ZOOM ZOOM STADIUM

yasug

Ky a( aw

nk Ho

tag

nsen

ONAGAHIGASHI ONAGANISHI

u-o

Shinka

Sanyo

ri do o-

ASHIKANIYACHO

on eb Ak

CHI

Onaga Primary School

Moto

Lin ain

oM ny Sa

city center

onmachi

Junior High School

Excellent Japanese cuisine served in stylish, smoke-free surroundings with traditional Japanese motifs. Our English speaking staff are ready to welcome you on the 7th floor of the Sheraton Grand Hiroshima Hotel.

• Luxurious sushi bar • Intimate Teppanyaki grill • Spectacular Kaiseki meals • Relaxing bar perfect for pre-dinner cocktails or a nightcap • Private rooms for groups large and small,

Miyabi-tei

Lunch Set Menus

Dinner Set Menus

Lunch 11:30-14:00 (L.O.)

Sushi ¥2,057~

Sushi ¥5,000~

Dinner 17:00-21:00 (L.O.)

Teppanyaki ¥3,500~*

Teppanyaki ¥8,800~

Kaiseki ¥2,571~

Kaiseki ¥5,657~

Smoke-free Miyabi-tei Bar 17:00-23:30 (L.O.)

Delicious a la carte options also available. Reservation / Tel: 082-262-7111 / map A p.30

HALLELUJAH KI TC HE N

B AR

www.facebook.com/hallelujah.kitchen.bar

Have a drink and some light food while enjoying the reggae, ska and rocksteady soundtrack or enjoy a full dinner. Western and Japanese food (fish, meat, salads, pasta etc is available). The staff don’t speak a lot of English, but are very friendly and welcoming and there’s a good chance you’ll find yourself laughing with them until well into the early hours. 18:00-05:00 Closed on Monday | Tel: 082-247-0199 Nakagawa bldg II 1F, 8-11, Nagarekawa-cho, Naka-ku, Map B p. 30 5

kanak Delicious, healthy, additive-free Indian food right next to Peace Park. Excellent lunch sets. Indian pub-style atmosphere at night with many a la carte dishes to choose from as well as curry meals. Curry lunch sets from ¥780 Free refills of rice/nan at lunch Vegetarian, vegan and Halal food. A la carte Kids sets ¥500 ~¥590 (ex tax) Party room available

Lunch 11:00-15:00 (L.O. 14:30) Dinner 17:00-22:30 (L.O. 22:00) 082-236-7308 Map C p. 31 [B-2] 6

English Menu

available at no extra charge.

* Weekday only

List of places CULTURE

RESTAUR ANT & CAFES

PL ACES FE ATURED IN THIS ISSUE

A-Bomb Dome - Map C [B-1]

Aitsuki - Map B

3Tree American & Italian Dining - Map C [B-3]

p.38

Children’s museum - Map C [B-2]

Artcafe ELK - Map C [B-1]

Hakata Ramen Michimaru - Map A

p.38

Former Bank of Japan - Map C [B-2]

Ayur - Map p. 29 [D-3]

Nakashima - Map p.29 [D-2]

p.52

Gallery G - Map A

Choi Choi Ya - Map B

Suiren Bar & Dining - Map B

p.39

Hatchoza Cinema - Map B

Graffity Mexican Diner - Map C [C-2]

Zetsumetsu-kigushu - Map A

p.48

Hiroshima City International House - Map A

Kanak - Map C [B-2]

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art Map C [D-3]

Micks - Map B

Hiroshima City Tourist Information - Map C [B-2]

Miyabi-tei - Map A

Hiroshima International Center - Map C [B-2]

Mokuren Okonomiyaki & Teppanyaki - Map A

Hiroshima Museum of Art - Map C [B-1]

Nagataya Okonomiyaki - Map C [B-1]

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum - Map C [B-2]

Otis! - Map C [A-2]

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum - Map A

Rojiura Teppan Kotaro - Map C [C-3]

International Exchange Lounge - Map C [A-2]

Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki - Map A

Rijo Kaikan Kenmin Bunka Center - Map C [B-1]

Tokaichi Apartment - Map C [A-1]

Salon Cinema 1/2 - Map C [C-1]

Teppan-ya Tyson - Map A

Shimizu Gekijo - Map A

Vegan Cafe - Map B

Shukkeien Garden - Map A

Warung Matahari - Map C [B-3]

Youin - Map B

map p. 28 & 29

ACCOMMODATION SHOPPING 1

Dormy Inn - Map C [B-2]

Hana Hostel - Map A

Don Quijotte - Map B

Hotel Flex - Map A

Fleur Bleue - Map C [C-3]

Ikawa Ryokan - Map C [A-2]

Hiroshima Mono Koto Store - Map C [C-2]

J-Hoppers Hiroshima - Map C [A-2]

Tayama Bungu - Map C [B-2]

Tsuruya Guesthouse - Map C [A-1]

Outsider Book Nook / Global Lounge - Map C [C-1]

Washington Hotel - Map B

Yamatoya - Map B

NIGHTLIFE

HE ALTH & BE AUT Y

Bar Edge - Map B

Family Pool - Map C [B-1] (Open July - August)

Bon Voyage - Map B

Green Arena Gym & Pool - Map C [B-1]

Bourbon Square - Map B

Higashi-ku Sports Center (Big Wave) - Map p.28 [D-1]

Centre Point - Map B

Hiroshima Stretch - Map C [B-2]

Hallelujah Kitchen & Bar - Map B

Laff Hair Design - Map C [B-1]

Kemby’s - Map C [B-2]

M’n Chiropractic - Map A

Koba - Map B

Square Salon - Map C [B-1]

Merchant of Venice - Map B

Molly Malone’s - Map B

New King - Map B

Organ-za - Map C [A-1]

Tropical Bar Revolución - Map B

b map p. 30

map p. 31

EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS

• Police 110 • Fire and Ambulance 119 • 24 Hour Hiroshima Hospital Information in English Freedial 0120-169912 • 24h Emergency pediatric hospital (Funairi Byoin) 082-232-6195 • Multilingual Interpreting Service (Trio-phone) 082-247-9715 09:00-19:00 (April-September) 09:00-18:00 (October-March)

INTERNE T 1

Global Lounge - Map C [C-1]

Popeye Media Cafe Ebisu-dori - Map B

Popeye Media Cafe Hondori - Map C [C-2]

• TELL English counseling service 03-5774-0992 (09:00-23:00) • Resident Consultation & Interpreting Service 082-241-5010 • Immigration Information Center 0570-013-904 • Human Rights Counseling Center for Foreign Citizens 082-228-5792

GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

/33

Dormy Inn

Hana Hostel

On Peace Blvd, very close to Peace Memorial Park. Free WiFi in all rooms. Free washing machine. Great traditional bath. Single: ¥6500, Double: ¥9000, Twin: ¥11,500 082-240-1177 map C p.31 [B-2] 1

Clean and friendly. 3min from Hiroshima Sta. Common lounge and kitchen. Dorm beds from ¥2500, Private twin rooms from ¥3200/person. No curfew, Free LAN/WiFi, Rental cycles 082-263-2980 map A p.30 2

Hotel Flex

Ikawa Ryokan

Stylish riverside hotel, rates include breakfast Singles ¥6825, Doubles from ¥11,555 The upper floor suites are really cool. 082-223-1000 map A p.30 3

Cozy, home-like atmosphere. Japanese and Western rooms. Coin laundry. S from ¥5940 / Twin ¥9720 / Tr ¥14,580 Quad ¥17,280 / Breakfast ¥756 www.ikawaryokan.net info@ikawaryokan.net 082-231-5058 map C p.31 [A-2] 4

J-Hoppers Hiroshima

Tsuruya Guetshouse

Friendly base in an interesting neighborhood near Peace Park. No curfew, Kitchen, Rental cycles Dorm beds from ¥2500, Private rooms from ¥3000/person map C p.31 [A-2] 5 082-233-1360

More than a guesthouse, Tsuruya has a lovely cafe bar looking out to the Ota-gawa riverside near Peace Park. Great place to trade travel tales and meet locals of all nationalities. Full bar, good coffee & light food. Dorm beds ¥3000. 08:00-22:00 / 082-240-1177 map C p.31 [A-1] 6

Washington Hotel

Aitsuki あい月

Hospitality, amenity and security right in the heart of Hiroshima. All rooms equipped with great bathrooms and separate lavatory. WiFi in all rooms http://washington-hotels.jp/hiroshima/ 082-553-2222 map B p.30 7

Modern izakaya with traditional Japanese touches run by husband and wife team. Horigotatsu seating so you can sit Japanese style in comfort. Save room to round off your meal with Niigata style hegi-soba. 18:00-24:00 (L.O 23:30) Closed Tuesday, 082-231-9865 map B p.30 1F 1

Artcafe ELK

Ayur

2nd floor cafe near Peace Park. Good sandwich lunches, drinks, vegetarian menu. Ask about vegan and gluten free dishes and their vegan desserts. International exchange spot. 10:30-22:00 (L.O. 21:30) 082-247-4443 map C p.31 [B-1] 2F 2

English-speaking Katsu’s modern washoku bistro won the GH best Japanese restaurant award for its warm welcome and imaginative combinations of local ingredients. ¥4000 omakase chef selections or a la carte. Reservations recommended. 18:00-23:00 Closed Sunday map 29 [D-3] 2F 3

Cafe Lente

Choi Choi Ya

Escape the Miyajima crowds at this beautifully designed cafe. Wooden terrace. Great view of the floating torii gate, especially after dark. From 11:00 Located along the water inlet between Kiyomori Shrine & Miyajima Aquarium.

Shiho serves Hiroshima tsukemen, yaki-ramen (fish stock base), side dishes and drinks in a relaxed atmosphere. Eat, drink or both at the counter or a street-side table. Can get quite lively late at night. 20:30-03:00 Closed Sundays & hols that fall on a weekday map B p.30 4

Graffity Mexican Diner

Micks

A spacious family-run diner serving homemade Mexican and US style foods. Great fresh salsa, highly rated margaritas and a good selection of tequila. 11:30-14:00 (L.O. 13:20), 18:00-24:00 (L.O. 23:00) 082-243-3669 map C p.31 [C-2] 4F 5

Lively and friendly izakaya. Casual atmosphere with good food, Japanese & western. Great selection of local sake.

Mokuren Okonomiyaki & Teppanyaki

Nagataya

Traditional and creative Hiroshima Okonomiyaki and a wide range of grilled teppan dishes on the 6th Floor of the Full Focus building across from Hiroshima JR Station. Local oysters, sake and ice cold draft beer too. 10:00-23:00 (L.O. 22:30) 082-568-7850 map A p.30 6F 9

Sun-Thur 18:00-3:00, Fri, Sat, days before Hols 18:00-5:00 082-249-6231 map B p.30 7

Great okonomiyaki and plenty of space to sit, a stone’s throw away from Peace Park. Excellent understanding of vegetarian needs. Mon-Fri 11:00-20:30 (L.O.) Sat 11:00-21:00 (L.O.) Sun, hols 10:30-20:30 (L.O) (Closed Tue & 4th Wed) 082-247-0787 map C p.31 [B-1] 10

Otis!

Rojiura Teppan Kotaro

Tex Mex and home-cooked food for meat eaters & vegetarians. Their vegetarian menu is one of the best in the city & includes vegan and gluten free dishes. Kids very welcome. Eclectic BGM & live music. 11:30-22:30 (L.0.) 082-249-3885 map C p.31 [A-2] 11

Young grill master Kotaro serves delicious seasonal dishes & drinks just off Peace Blvd.

17:00-02:00 (L.O. 01:30) Closed Tuesdays 082-249-1953 map C p.31 [C-3] 2F 12

Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki Affable, soccer-loving okonomiyaki-ist serving Hiroshima’s favorite dish and drinks near Hiroshima Station. 11:30-14:00, 17:00-23:00 Closed Saturdays 082-236-7303 map A p.30 2F 13

Tokaichi Apartment Quirky, smoke free cafe in Tokaichi with some very interesting seating options. ¥850 set lunches served until 16:30. 11:30-23:00 (lunch L.O. 16:30) Closed Tuesdays 082-231-9865 map C p.31 [A-1] 1F 14

Teppan-ya Tyson Tasty okonomiyaki, teppan favorites like beef tongue and a fun vibe in Okonomi Monogatari Ekimae Hiroba near Hiroshima Station. Mitsumura-san trained under okonomiyaki master Lopez, so look for double yolks and try the jalapeño toppings. 11:00-23:00 082-568-7838 map A p.30 6F 15

Vegan Cafe

Warung Matahari

100% vegan food made with fresh local vegetables and all natural seasonings. Our multi-dish set meals are heavily influenced by traditional Buddhist temple cuisine. 12:00-17:00 Tuesday-Sunday. Reservations recommended. 082-247-8529, map B p.30 3F 16

Excellent Indonesian cuisine prepared by Balinese chef Surasna. Vegetarian and Halal friendly. If you like it really spicy, ask Surasna to let you have it! 17:30-22:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-240-2082 map C p.31 [B-3] 17

Youin 陽陰 washoku bar Cheerful and mild-mannered “Take” Shimosaka has created something quite remarkable. Youin is relaxed enough to just enjoy a few drinks, but also offers some quite excellent Japanese cuisine which would be crazy to pass up. Take’s skill is immediately evident on presentation of the meticulously prepared Kyo-ryori dishes of his native Kyoto and modern washoku. The flavors he draws out of his seasonal and all-natural ingredients are simply exceptional. 082-249-7129 / 2F Nakagawa Bldg, 8-11 Nagarekawa-cho, Naka-ku 20:00-05:00 Map B p. 30 18 facebook.com/youin.hiroshima

Bar Edge

Bon Voyage

Small underground club with a good sound system.

International bar with counter and 2 discount rooms in which to chill. Nice cocktails and some great food too.

082-248-8146 map B p.30 1

Mon-Thur, Sun 18:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00 082-249-2380 map B p.30 3F 2

Bourbon Square

Centre Point

Relaxed counter bar near Shintenchi Park. Great selection of bourbon, whiskies and fresh fruit cocktails. Plus some of the best tasting draft beer in the drinking district. Mon-Sat 18:00-03:00, Sun 18:00-24:00 082-242-3668, map B p.30 2F 3

Nagarekawa bar catering to a late night crowd that prides itself on its whiskey selection. DJs spinning at weekends, good source of local nightlife info. Tue-Thur 20:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00-05:00, Sun 20:00-01:00 map B p.30 5F 4

Koba Rock loving BOM is one of Hiroshima’s most welcoming and entertaining bartenders. He whips up some very tasty food too.

Kemby’s www.facebook.com/kembyshiroshima High quality food in a casual atmosphere. Kemby’s has all the bases covered with tapas, pasta,Tex Mex, gourmet sausages, seafood and their famous burgers. Owner Prakash prides himself on his wine list and is happy to help you make the right choice. The full drink menu includes international beers on draft and a selection of imported craft beers. Happy hours 17:30-00:30 selected alcohol ¥200 off Monday-Thursday 11:30-00:30, Friday & Saturday 11:30-01:00, Sunday 11:30-23:00 / 082-249-6201 map C p.31 [B-2] 6

18-00-01:30 (L.O), Closed Wednesdays 082-249-6556 map B p.26 3F 7

Merchant of Venice Chilled out drinking space with subdued lighting offering some interesting Japanese themed cocktails at the bar counter or in the darts lounge. 19:00-04:00 (L.O. 03:30) Closed Mondays 082-240-1155 map B p.30 3F 8

New King Trendy and Pink, 2F bar run by the guys behind local hip men’s underwear boutique.

21:00-05:00 082-247-4487 map B p.30 2F 10

Organ-za Molly Malone’s

www.facebook.com/mollymaloneshiroshima Hiroshima’s authentic Irish pub. Great beer, great food, great service. The place to watch Premier League soccer. Tues-Thurs 17:00~01:00 / Fri 17:00~02:00 / Sat 11:30~02:00 / Sun + Nat Hol 11:30~24:00 / Closed Monday / 082-244-2554 map B p.30 4F 9

Bohemian queen, Goto Izumi's avant-garde center of operations. Great decor, food, drink and bizarre stage shows. Tue-Fri 17:30-01:30 (L.O.), Sat 11:30-01:30 (L.O.) Sun 11:30-23:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-295-1553 map C p.31 [A-1] 2F 11

Tropical Bar Revolución

Don Quijote

Nobu’s popular 8F hangout, friendly and relaxed complete with balcony.

Huge discount store open every day until 5am. Snacks, groceries, alcohol, medicines, souvenirs, cosmetics, electronics, costumes, household & sporting goods; you name it, they have it!

18:00-03:00~04:00 Closed Sun, hols map B p.30 8F 12

10:00-05:00 082-543-6711 map B p.30 1

Hiroshima Mono Koto Store

Tayama Bungu

Unique, high quality products from upcoming Japanese artisans and creators at reasonable prices. Feel free to browse or order a drink from the coffee bar. http://www.monokotostore.com/ 09:30-18:00 Closed Wednesdays, Thursdays 082-545-1115 map C p.31 [C-2] 3

Tayama Bungu has been selling quality Japanese stationery on Hondori shopping arcade since 1897. From sushi erasers & quality postcards to fountain pens that will make pen aficionados drool, including some Sailor originals. 10:00-20:00 3F Hondori Hills (above the Adidas on Hondori arcade) 082-248-2221 map C p.31 [B-2] 4

Outsider Book Nook/Global Lounge

Yamatoya

TAX FREE 8%

Used English books to buy or exchange. Internet, cafe & meeting place. Lunches daily, bar from 19:00 Fri & Sat. Mon-Thurs 12:00-21:00 Fri & Sat 12:00-23:00, Closed Sun, hols 082-244-8145 map C p.31 [C-1] 5 1

Produced in limited quantities yet reasonably priced, a bottle of Hiroshima's top quality local Japanese sake makes for a great souvenir. www.piconet.co.jp/yamatoya/ 09:00-22:00 Closed Sundays 082-241-5660 map B p.30 6

Hiroshima Stretch

Laff Hair Design

Relieve stiff muscles or travel stress at Hiroshima’s centrally located Stretch salon. Director Masamoto-san speaks English and has a deep understanding of how to help with muscle pain, sports injuries and posture. Mention GetHiroshima for a ¥5000 60min session map C p.31 [B-2] 3F 4 11:00-22:00 / 082-240-2077

Ippei’s skills and service have made him a huge hit among Hiroshima’s international community. 082-504-7636 (English line) map C p.31 [B-1] 5

M’n Chiropractic Dr. Naoki Morimoto trained in the US, speaks English and is highly recommended by one of our writers. Consultation & treatment ¥5000/ session http://mnchiropractic.jp/ Appointments by reservation only 080-962-5091 map A p.30 3F 6 Wed afternoon,Thurs, Sun & Nat Hols

Square Salon (Nail Salon) Japanese style nail care and nail art near Peace Memorial Park. Reservation by e-mail (English is OK): info@nail-square.com or come directly to the shop. Mon-Sat 10:00-19:30, Sun, Hols 10:00-18:30, closed Tue map C p.30 [B-1]3F 7

Media Cafe Popeye Hondori / Ebisu-dori So much more than Internet in 2 city centre locations Internet access (PC), Free soft drinks, Shower rooms available (additional charge), Overnight stay OK Open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week Popeye Ebisu-dori map B p.30 2 Popeye Hondori map C p.31 [C-2] 3

Stone of love and peace, the color of Caribbean waters. Blue Larimar, only found in the Dominican Republic. It is loved for its rare, natural beauty and highly prized by many for its reputed calming properties. Fleur Bleue is one of Japan’s foremost Larimar dealers with a large selection of stones at a wide range of prices. All of Fleur Bleue’s stones are ethically sourced and most of their finished pieces come with a certificate of authenticity. Browsers welcome.

http://fleur-bleue.jp/ www.facebook.com/Fleur.Bleue.4F/ Tel. 082-259-3535 4F 8-5 Komachi, Naka-ku, map C p.31 [C-3]

Larimar specialty shop in Hiroshima

11:00-18:00, close Mon, Tue

eat the day! Local residents share some of their favorite dining spots to keep you covered, morning till night.

3TREE AMERICAN & ITALIAN DINING

breakfast

by Kismet Cordova It’s finally happened. Authentic, delicious Western style breakfast has arrived in Hiroshima at 3Tree American & Italian Dining! This new Hawaiian-themed cafe restaurant in Takanobashi fills an egg-shaped void in Hiroshima with plenty of rich, comforting Hollandaise sauce. The fresh-baked croissant eggs benedicts and American omelets come in several varieties (my favorite being avocado and spinach), while the Italian-sourced Kimbo coffee is some of the best I’ve had in town. While you’re enjoying the breezy atmosphere composed of soft lighting and beachy décor dotted with postcard-quality photos, you can also try other classic dishes like coconut syrup pancakes and loco moco, as well as American dishes like roasted chicken leg and Louisiana jambalaya. Co-owner Minori’s perfect English and foreigner-friendly welcome really complete the aloha vibe. Tel: 082-236-9833 / Opening hours: 07:30-22:00 (L.O. 21:00) 2-4-11 Kokutaiji-machi, Naka-ku map B p.30 1

lunch

HAKATA RAMEN MICHIMARU 博多ラーメンみちまる by Matt Jungblut Ramen is taken very seriously in Fukuoka/Hakata, much like okonomiyaki is here. Ton-kotsu (pork based) is the only type to eat in Hakata. Outside the region shops tend to go with a thicker, oilier kotteri soup which is easier to make, but Michimaru’s broth is the delicate, and difficult to master, light assari broth. Noodles here have a different texture than most ramen, as they are Kyushu style. You can choose your noodle firmness as you would there. I tend to opt for the kona-otoshi literally “still dusty with powder”, extremely firm noodles, but if you aren’t specific, you’ll be fine. Near the station, Michimaru is as good as Fukuoka, and cheaper than getting on the shinkansen. Tel: 082-264-0064 / www.michimaru.jp Open Daily lunch 11:00-14:30, dinner 17:30-24:00 (Sunday lunch only) 2-8-15 Hikari-machi, Higashi-ku, map C p.31 [C-1] 2

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coffee

24/7 COFFEE&ROASTERS UJINA

by jjwalsh

One of the best cafe options on the waterfront in Ujina a few hundred meters east of Hiroshima Port. Lounge on the comfy raised futons, sit a table or relax on one of the two seat sofas, all with impressive Inland Sea views. Service is relaxed and friendly and the atmosphere stylish yet chill. Slow-pour coffees at three strengths made with beans roasted on the premises. Light dining options include fresh salads and a variety of savory cheesy toasts. For sweeter options, the Setouchi lemon pound cake and fluffy hotcakes are deliciously satisfying. Juices and some coffee-themed cocktails also available. English menu available. Tel: 082-250-0036 Opening hours: 11:00-23:00 (L.O. food 22:00, drink 22:30) 3-12-38 Ujina Kaigan, Minami-ku

TAKANOBASHI KIYOTAN たかのばし清耽

dinner

by Alex Rey Sandwiched between a konbini and mansion building, Takanobashi Kiyotan’s stylish front is slightly incongruous, but reflects the creative and beautifully presented Japanese dishes served inside. We started with smoked potato salad with pine nuts; a surprising remix of a humble dish, setting the tone for what followed; soba-manju with minced meat, in an excellent dashi soup, topped with fresh wasabi, lotus root and scallop tempura with fresh shiso and a wheat gluten (like a soft mochi) age-dashi. All were prepared with great care and all delicious. Slightly off the beaten track but recommended to anyone looking for quality Japanese cuisine.

late night

Tel: 082-246-8995 Opening hours: 18:00-24:00 (L.O. 23:00) close Sunday 5-17-1 Ote-machi, Naka-ku

SUIREN BAR & DINING

by Amy Jensen Isaacs

Suiren is an elegant place to finish up a night on the town. The low-lighting, lotus decor, and music give it a relaxed, romantic ambiance. You can sit in a quiet corner or get comfortable next to the wide windows to watch the busy streets below. It is the perfect environment for after-dinner drinks with a date or a girls’ night out. The friendly staff has limited English and the cocktails are fantastic. They also offer an early evening Happy Hour and a food menu. Suiren is located near the Tatemachi streetcar stop, above the Sukiya restaurant. The entrance is on the side-street near the Seattle’s Best coffee shop. Take the elevator to the 7th floor. Tel: 082-543-2921 Opening hours: 12:00-14:00 18:00-3:00 Tatemachi Chūō Bldg 7F, 2-1 Tate-machi, Naka-ku, map B p.30

If you would like to share one of your favorite dining spots in a future issue send us a 100 word description with a photo or two to eattheday@gethiroshima.com GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

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goshuincho 御朱印帳 beautiful reminders of your time in japan.

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Words and photos by Linda Sue

Go-shuin, shrine and temple stamps, make for wonderful souvenirs of your time in Japan and are an excellent antidote to ‘temple fatigue’.

I have lived in Japan for most of my life and have been fortunate enough to have traveled from one end of this beautiful country to the other. This, of course, means that I have visited a good number of the thousands of shrines and temples for which Japan is well known. It was, however, only about 4 years ago, when visiting a friend in the Tokyo area, that I first heard about go-shuin [御朱印] temple and shrine stamps. She showed me a ‘temple stamp book’ or shuin-cho [朱印帳] that she had bought on a trip to Kyoto in which she had collected stamps from the temples and shrines she had visited. Both the stamps and the book itself were incredibly beautiful and I was immediately hooked. I purchased my own shuin-cho at a shrine the very next day.

GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

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I have since filled up two of the regular books and one special shuin-cho on a pilgrimage I did in Shimane. Most large temples and shrines sell the books, and some have a beautiful design of that temple or shrine on the cover. I’ve seen the books priced between ¥1000 and ¥1500. There is also a fee for the go-shuin stamp which is almost like a piece of art, far more eleborate than a simple ink stamp. Typically, each stamp is ¥300. They are such great souvenirs to collect while traveling around Japan. They don’t take up much space, provide a record of your travels and many are beautiful enough to cut out and frame, so you can enjoy them every day. It’s also pretty cool to watch them stamp your book and then write the name of the temple or shrine over the stamps in Japanese calligraphy. Some places will do it right there in front of you, while others will take your book and hand you a number so you can come back later to pick it up. Some shrines and temples will allow you to take a photograph of the person stamping and writing in your book, but many do not, so please ask first. It is usually pretty easy to find the place where you can get your stamp, but I have been to temples and

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shrines where it is in another building way off to the side. If you are having a hard time figuring out where to take your book, just go up to where they are selling the lucky charms and ask “Go-shuin wa doko desu ka? ” I’ve also had a lot of luck with just showing someone my book and asking, “Shuin? ” Someone will point you in the right direction. Another thing I love about collecting these stamps is that it helped me to more fully appreciate the shrines and temples I visit. I have always found them fascinating and beautiful, but I will admit that I have been guilty of zipping through some of them pretty quickly. Handing off my book and being asked to come back after I’ve paid my respects has made me slow down and really enjoy the beauty that each place has to offer. While I do get very excited about my stamps and I am always eager to check out the style of each new stamp, visiting shrines and temples is not just about getting another stamp for my book. Please pay your respects by giving an offering and saying a little prayer, making a wish, or giving thanks. The offering can be whatever you feel like giving or whatever you can afford. Some people make

offerings of just a one yen coin and others put bills in the offering box. It doesn’t matter and nobody will be offended by the amount. Just please make sure you are putting Japanese currency into the offering box. Once you have placed your offering in the box, at a shrine you will ring the bell (if there is one), bow twice, clap twice, and then bow once while silently expressing feelings of gratitude. If you are at a temple, you can just bring your hands together and pray. Also, please keep in mind that there are some temples and shrines that do not offer go-shuin. Whether you live in Japan or you are just visiting, purchase a shuin-chō at the next temple or shrine you visit and start building your own unique keepsake from your adventures.

For more great insights into Japan from Linda Sue visit her website IwakuniFoodie.com and follow her @IwakuniFoodie.

GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

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Last chance to ride this picturesque single track line which follows the Gono-no-kawa River through the Chugoku mountain range.

The Sankō-sen Line connects Miyoshi in the north of Hiroshima prefecture (see our feature on page 12) with the town of Gōtsu on the Japan Sea coast. Running through the mountains alongside the region’s biggest river, the Go-no-kawa, the line provides a wonderful and relaxing opportunity to enjoy the rural scenery as the carriage trundles along. The full trip takes around 3.5 hours one way and departures are limited, but, with a little planning, travelers can stop along the way to enjoy country scenes close up, local food, hot springs and, now sleepy, historic towns. With the closure of the line scheduled for the end of March next year, this is the last chance to make a spring run and, of course, to catch the cherry blossom. Kagura Train / Between Kawado (川戸駅) and Tazu (田津駅) Stations / Photo by Ryouji Yamaoka Miyoshi-Gotsu / 108km / 35 Stations

all aboard! last chance for the By Noriko Yamamoto (Design Studio Shimaisha)

sanko-sen 三江線

ba ra

wa g ka

Sh ik

u iIw am

江津駅

Gotsu

Ta z

o wa d Ka

wa hi ra Ka

ne Ch iga

ch i

Go t

Line trip this spring.

stations to make the most your Sanko

su -h on

recommends stopping off at these

江 Go 津 ts u

Local expert Yamamoto Noriko

The port city of Gōtsu has a number of hotels, restaurants and shops. Walking to or from Gōtsu-honmachi Station (one stop from Gōtsu) along the atmospheric ‘Iraka Kaidō’ with its traditional buildings is a great way to start or round off your Sankō-sen journey. Catch Iwami Kagura shows at Palette Gōtsu opposite Gōtsu Station on 3/19, 4/23 & 5/28 at 11am & 3pm.

Iwami-kawamoto 石見川本駅

Iraka Kaido

Yamanobe Shrine 山辺神社 5min walk from Gotsu-honmachi Station This shrine dates from 652. It is said that any wish made on the negai-ishi stone that resembles a white dragon here will surely come true.

Shinei Zushi 新栄寿司 1min walk Sushi chef with 53 years experience. Soba and udon noodle dishes are good too.

Moe character Iwami Mie is waiting to greet you! The 09:57 train from Miyoshi gets to Iwamikawamoto at 12:09. Grab lunch before continuing on to Gotsu at 13:43, or, if taking the 16:25 back to Miyoshi, why not hit a hot spring and check out Choko-ji temple. Staff are on hand to help at the Omotenashi Welcome Salon 12-2pm, where 2 rental bikes are also available. Accommodation is available nearby at the Hotel Otogi.

Kawamoto Shokudo 川本食堂 5min walk Iwami wagyu beef with locally produced organic wild sesame sauce on rice. Ramen too.

Zaru-soba nigiri set ¥1000

11:00-14:00 17:00-20:00 / 0855-72-0021

Chikamoto Taishodo 近本大正堂 4 min walk from Gōtsu-honmachi Station Drop in at this much loved shop for sweet bean filled dorayaki cakes cooked today, over a wood fire, as they have been for over 100 years. 07:00-20:00 / Closed New Year’s Day only 0855-52-2058

Choko-ji Temple 長江寺 7.3km / 40min by bicycle / 20min by taxi Ask the priest to show you the bakutō no gyokuchin; an antique wooden headrest in the shape of a tapir’s head at this 15th century temple.

Mon-Fri 12:00-14:00 , 17:00-24:00 Sat 17:00-24:00 / Closed Sunday / 0855-72-1370 Yudani Onsen 湯谷温泉 7.3km / 40min by bicycle / 20min by taxi Next to Choko-ji Temple, samurai once bathed their wounds in this mildly acidic water.

Hot spring 10:00-20:00 Adult ¥540 / Child ¥280 Restaurant 11:00-14:00 , 17:00-19:30 Closed Mondays / 0855-72-2645

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ts ug a Uz ui

Iw am

ts ub ar a ma

Iw am

Us 潮 hi o

i an Sa wa d

Ha ma 浜 ha 原 ra

su bu ch i Ka

ts uk a

aw as hi Ik

Ku 口 ch 羽 iba

作木口駅

sakugi-guchi

iji

ku 作木 gig uc 口 hi

The cherry blossom station! Turn left and take a 2.3km stroll (turn around at the big red Shiki-bashi Bridge) along the sakura tree lined road with views of the river. For the local hot spring, said to have been discovered by a fox, turn right out of the station.

Ushio Onsen 潮温泉 5min walk Hot spring. Buffet lunches & accommodation by reservation. Hot spring Adult ¥420 /Child ¥210. Lunch ¥870 (reservations required) Closed: Every 2nd Wednesday / 0855-82-2212

Go bir a

潮駅

Ak a

Iw am

ya n

On ba ra

e Ta k

ro ha ra Ki

wa a mi 石 -k 見 aw 川 am 本 ot o

Ushio

Lunch 11:00-15:00 (Nov-May), (16:00 June-Oct) L.O. 30min before close / Closed Wednesdays

Mi 三 yo 次 sh i

Yudōfu (Chichi-dōfu-teishoku hot pot)

iya

Aw ay

Na ga

Kawa-no-eki Josei 川の駅常清 1km/15min walk

Oz ek

Josei-daki falls 常清滝 2km/20min walk

It’s a 2km walk to the impressive Joseidaki falls - cross the bridge and turn left. About halfway is Kawa-noeki Josei where you can sample local specialities like ayu sweetfish fresh from the river and homemade milk curd tofu hot pot. Head right for the canoe park where you can rent kayaks from ¥500.

Gonokawa Canoe Park Sakugi 江の川カヌー公園さくぎ 3.5km/45min walk Photos © Noriko Yamamoto, Kazuyuki Nakano, Hanako Suzuki GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

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goto izumi's deep 13 hiroshima

vol.

Hiroshima

” e r u t l u c r e t n u o c “

Hiroshima, a city that bears one of history’s deepest scars, is notoriously conservative. A testing ground, we often hear, for new products as marketers believe that if they can sell an idea to Hiroshima they can sell it anywhere. Is there space here then, for underground, non-conformist art. Hunt though I did, I must confess I did not uncover a thriving countercultural scene. I am happy to report, however, some seeds of potential which, with your permission, I would like to introduce here. All have differing approaches, notions of art and creation, but I was stuck that all, at some point, mentioned the strong influence of Mura-ya, a small bar in a Kyoto machi-ya. A timely reminder that one never knows how far ripples from even the tiniest pebble might reach and who they ho they might move.

exhibit 1 / zetsumetsu-kigushu [絶滅危惧種] / space: zetsumetsu-kigushu [絶滅危惧種]

In the jumble of narrow alleyways that make up the ‘Eki-nishi’ area next to Hiroshima Station, you will find Zetsumetsu-kigushu. Zetsumetsukigushu started life as a cluttered little 2 story shop run by a group of friends selling mostly vintage clothing and used books. 3 of those friends have gone their separate ways and it is now the base of operations and brand name of soft-spoken odd couple Kawamoto and Itoguchi. The first floor is packed, literally to the rafters, with garments, accessories and nik-naks from indie designers from around the country as well as with their own clothing designs. Products from the 16 indie brands featured at time of writing range from the ridiculously girly to uncompromising hyper-punk, all, considering they are all handmade and unique, sold at quite reasonable prices. The upper floor, accessed by a steep, narrow flight of steps serves as a studio and gallery space.

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A kind of shop rare outside Toyko and one of a kind in Hiroshima, Zetsumetsu-kigushu has the air of a passion project. Almost totally devoid of the air of commerce, apropos of its name, which means ‘endangered species’, one wonders how the two young creators can afford to keep the place going. Kawamoto and Itoguchi currently work other jobs to allow them to open the store Friday, Saturday and Sunday. For now, the pair’s aspirations are limited to continuing to create and dream of getting to a point where they can quit their part-time jobs and focus on their brand. Standing in the confines of their own hidden world, I, for one, wish them the best of luck. Kawamoto and Itoguchi speak little English and are quite shy, but I have great hope that they will help lead a new cultural scene here in Hiroshima. Drop by their shop to discover designers and artists you won’t find in a mall or chain store (yet). Zetsumetsu-kigushu is open Friday, Saturday and Sunday 13:00-20:00 @zetsukigu https://www.facebook.com/zetsukigu map A p.30

GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

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exhibit 2 / [nuttsponchon] space: Cumulus

A little artistic space in the waterfront town of Onomichi, Cumulus is the studio and outlet of a creator who goes by the name of ‘nuttsponchon’. Nattsuponchon relocated to Onomichi a couple of years ago and his plain white studio is populated by his works (currently mostly clothing) and some of his favorite things. His “art” is not something easily categorized; it isn’t really a “thing” at all. Nuttsponchon himself, the culmination of the relationships he has developed through music, travel and love, can, in its own way, be described as art. Conversation with nuttsponchon is always stimulating and always brings unexpected insights. I’d love to see him shake up some kind of publicly funded or commercial art project which are all too often shackled by common sense. I have no doubt that nuttsponchon has the potential to blast a huge hole in society’s conventional assumptions. Nuttsponchon has spent a good amount of time overseas and speaks English well. I highly recommend you drop in a see him when you are next in Onomichi. It is an encounter that could spark realizations, fresh and profound. @nuttsponchon http://nuttsponchon.thebase.in/ Cumulus: 2-5-14 Kubo, Onomichi-shi, Hiroshima-ken 722-0045

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exhibit 3 / [[葉朗] Haro

Haro is an extremely likable fellow, but, an avid student and curator of underground culture, he has an uncompromising artistic compass. He is Hiroshima’s nascent counterculture’s greatest champion and harshest critic. Declare yourself an “artist” and you’d better be able to back it up. You might find him checking out this exhibition or that event, but you won’t catch him schmoozing and is often studiously aloof. Haro is my own cultural barometer; his presence at one of my own productions is always a sign that I’m on the right track. He is as tough on himself as he is on others. Currently working mostly with silk screen, he refuses to describe himself as an artist. That, he believes, is an appellation only deserved by those who make a living from their own work created on their own terms. Follow Haro’s compass online or check out his next curated TRADITIONAL HIROSHIMA DANCEFLOOR live music and culture market at Hiroshima Club Quattro on March 12. @Hello_86_ http://haroworks.blogspot.jp/

GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

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eating the stars Words and photos: Matt Jungblutt

“How would you like to eat at all of Hiroshima’s Michelin star restaurants? You’d be the Michelin Man.” Body shape issues aside, I quickly accepted GetHiroshima’s challenge. My daughter once said, someday she’d like to eat the moon. Me? I’ll eat the stars.

Hiroshima’s only three Michelin star restaurant has wonderful kaiseki cuisine; served as a set menu without substitutions or choice, although two price points are available. Quality of ingredients and preparation, not quantity make the difference between the two levels. Making a reservation at a week’s notice was remarkably easy compared to other Michelin ranked restaurants. We were seated at the main serving counter, next to another couple who had Mrs. Nakashima’s undivided attention throughout the entire evening, and we could occasionally see the chef, Mr. Nakashima at work in the semi-open kitchen. Our server quietly brought us each course with an explanation in Japanese about both the food and the antique crockery that the courses were presented on. Occasionally she brought additional photos or

52\

written explanations (in Japanese), and at one point a very large wasabi root, to give further detail to the meal. She also pointed out calligraphy on our trays and prints done by the chef himself. Our meal consisted of eight courses, starting with a skillfully grilled fish and seasonal vegetable appetizer; flowing to an excellent sashimi plate including squid wrapped sea urchin. The soup that followed came from a Taisho era recipe with a subtly complex broth that I wanted to ask the chef more about. The main protein, tachiuo, or scabbard fish, was again grilled perfectly, and this time presented on a tray with the aforementioned calligraphy, expressing the beginning of spring. Tofu skin porridge topped with crab and eggplant also had

a depth that I had more questions about. The chawanmushi (egg custard) had a citrus sauce that overpowered the softer shirako - the “anti-caviar” sperm sac of a codfish. Organic rice from an earthenware pot was quickly served, then a simple dessert; and the meal was complete. The food greatly impressed, yet we never felt the connection that we do with many restaurants. The chef frequently left the kitchen, his only interaction with us being when he told us not to photograph anything other than the food, and the hostess, Mrs. Nakashima remained in the kitchen as we said our goodbyes. Would it have been different had I never asked permission to photograph my meal? I wish I could know for sure.

Nakashima なかしま 10-4 Higashihakushimacho, Naka-ku, Hiroshima 082-225-3977 map p.29 [D-2] 3 Rating* Atmosphere Clean, bright, light colored wood, counter seating or a table for a small group. Not a place in which children or loud groups would be comfortable. Ultra modern restroom with high end amenities. No smoking. Sound Extremely quiet. Only sound is neighboring conversations or the server explaining the course to you. Recommended dishes Only set meals are available. Drinks and Wine Very good selection of sake and shochu. Sparkling water and other limited beverages for drivers and nondrinkers. Language Website shows some English, although we only heard Japanese spoken during our meal, and our server only spoke Japanese. The server will show an iPad and other photos of certain parts of the meal, as well as some written explanations - which again were in Japanese only. Price Two courses are currently available, a ¥10,000 and a ¥15,000 (both have a 13% tax + service charge added on, bringing the totals to ¥11,300 and ¥16,950). Drinks are reasonably priced. Open Dinner from 18:00-22:00, Saturdays from 17:00. Closed Sundays and most national holidays. Reservations are required. You are required to be seated by 19:30 - we witnessed Mr. Nakashima bluntly telling another customer, whose partner was late, to leave. Accessibility Street level, no major obstacles or stairs, restroom is very narrow, so that area is not wheelchair accessible.

*What the Moons Mean Ratings range from one to five moons. One moon is awful or some major problem. Two moons, satisfactory, but not worth a long trip. Three moons, very good, worth making an effort to eat there. Four moons, excellent, well worth making reservations far in advance. Five moons, life changing.

GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

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my town Hiroshima’s Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, picked up two of our Best of Hiroshima Awards in 2016 and Mark Gardiner has been at the helm since its very beginnings, 15 years ago.

How did you end up in Hiroshima? After studying and working in hospitality management in Ireland, Dubai and Korea, I was excited to hear about an opportunity to run a new Irish pub in Hiroshima being opened by the Taigeki Kaikan company. The day I arrived with our chef to meet the owners, happened to be in the middle of Ebisu festival. So, the city was bursting with people and there was a great atmosphere. It was a great first impression of the city. Many of those memorable nights out drinking in the city ended alongside long-timers at the iconic Mac bar. There is certainly a void now it’s gone. Did you ever think you’d settle in Japan? Japan might seem a long way away from the Ireland, but I actually had a family connection with Japan. One of my father’s cousins had fallen in love in Paris in the 1950s with a Japanese diplomat and emigrated to Tokyo. She went on to work for the Emperor as a interpreter when foreign dignitaries came to visit and translated his Haiku poems. I was able to meet her a few times in Tokyo before she passed away, she was a really interesting lady. We remember this building before Molly Malone’s, how was it built? Everything you see in the pub, the wood, glass, and all the memorabilia, was made in Australia, shipped here and reassembled piece by piece to create the Molly Malone’s we know today. How might someone describe Molly’s to a friend? A place to come and relax and find someone to talk to where you don’t have to worry about anything. We get conservative eaters and people who are overwhelmed by the unfamiliarities of Japan. Both visitors and residents crave a break sometimes. Japan can be an especially hard place to travel if you are by yourself. This is a place where there’s always someone to chat with.

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What do you get up to when you’re not at work? We spend a lot of our free time as a family in our neighborhood- our neighbors are really friendly. Our main Hiroshima activity is probably supporting the Hiroshima Carp. Actually, I’m a football fan, but our son has loved baseball since he was three and watched his first professional game. He practices baseball at the weekends and we go to support the Carp at the stadium when we can. Years ago, I tried to support Sanfrecce, but it was too much effort to get out and back to the Big Arch stadium. Plus, the atmosphere just can’t compare to a Carp home game at Mazda Stadium. Other than that, we are a pretty typical family and we like going to the Aeon Mall in Fuchu. The new LECT shopping center, near Shoko Center, is closer to home, so that could become a new favorite. I’ve also recently started playing Futsal again with a group of friends down at Pivox in Ujina, near the Prince Hotel, which is a good laugh.

How about local trips? If we have a weekend free, we might go up to Kobe as we have family there. When my mother visited recently we went to Daisen- we loved that! They have lots of nice B&B’s out there which you don’t see much of around Japan. Anything exciting on the horizon for Molly Malone’s? Our St Patrick’s Day celebration, coming up on March 17, is our biggest event of the year and, of course, we’ll have to commemorate our 15th anniversary in December. Oh, and try our best selling fish & chips which are specially priced between 5pm and 7pm Tuesday to Thursday to go with our happy hour drinks. If you’re visiting Hiroshima, please pop into Molly Malone’s to say hello. You will always find a friendly face and be able to relax here. Hope to see you soon!

Matt’s Moment a funeral

Last week my wife’s sister died. After a long and unevenly matched battle, her death was at once unsurprising and a shock. She could be difficult, and created a great deal of drama. At the end, she tried to bind every wound she’d inflicted, but her strength was gone. When she died, my wife cleaned and dressed her and made up her face, and the body was removed from the hospice to a funeral parlor. Attendants wheeled her simple white coffin into the room set aside for the wake. Her parents bent over her, stroking her face, speaking softly to her as though she were a sleeping, fevered child. Mementos were placed alongside her. Photographs, a paperback piano tutorial. She was covered with green and gold brocade, bricks of dry ice tucked beneath it, and the lid with its window above her face was fitted into place. Her husband and fourteen year old daughter stayed with her, keeping incense burning through the night. I’d like to talk about my niece, the same age as my own older daughter. But for the moment I’ll just say that she was entirely self-contained, politely answering inane questions about her studies and the funeral parlor’s bath facilities and otherwise keeping her own counsel. The funeral was small. Her husband had wanted only immediate family, but from our side several cousins insisted on saying goodbye. The coffin rested before a tall arrangement of lights, flowers and a dollhouse-sized temple where Amida waited at the gates. At the center stood a photograph of my sister-in-law, a pretty woman with long hair falling across her right shoulder, but already marked in this photograph by a sad weariness. We took our seats and two priests shuffled in to chant the service.

My sister-in-law had two sons, who for reasons not worth going into were estranged from the family years ago. I’ve never understood the brutality of their father’s ultimatum, but one day they were with us, two gangling boys, and the next they were gone. We hadn’t seen them since. Three days before she died they walked into their mother’s room. She seized their hands, asking forgiveness, almost the last words she spoke. I don’t know how they answered. Now the youngest appeared in the back row, 27 years old and hunched in his chair. His arms were drawn tight over his chest, his face dark and impassive. He sat three rows behind his half-sister and she never knew he was there. I felt a deeply irrational pride at how handsome he was, but when I turned for a second look, he was already gone. I won’t see him again. Perhaps he’d expected more people, a crowd to offer some anonymity. Perhaps it was something else entirely. But, however briefly, he had come. At the crematorium, we were invited to take our last look at her. Before the funeral my niece had worked furiously on a long letter, turned away from us with her head and knees pressed to the wall. Now she tucked it among the flowers that covered her mother’s body. In a low voice, a staff member intoned an order to pray and bow, and the doors of the furnace slid shut. The sound of flames came almost at once. It’s been a long time since I’ve experienced culture shock in Japan, but here it was. The family adjourned to a tatami room to eat bento and chat while the fire did its work. After ninety minutes, we were brought to a room where hot ash and bone lay on a slab. The piano tutorial was a bleached, curling fountain of ash alongside what remained of her ribcage. Everything else was gone. The flowers,

notes, even the doll that had been placed in the coffin. According to the old Chinese round of days, today was a tomobiki day, which means “pulling friends with you.” This is lucky for many purposes, but not for funerals. The doll would deflect any unwanted cosmic attention. My niece and her father took up long chopsticks and, together, placed the first bone in a ten inch high ceramic pot. We took turns, stepping forward to fish among the ashes for bone. Working from the feet toward the ruined skull, we placed the bones in the urn so that she was in something like an upright position, with vaulted fragments of skull placed last atop the pile. The attendant briskly and competently broke up larger pieces of bone in his fingers, pointing out items of interest. Her hands. A bone from her throat. A tooth or the bridge of her nose. At each revelation, her family leaned in for a closer look, nodding their heads. My niece tensed only slightly when he offered her mother’s jawbone, setting it before her like a jeweler laying out a string of pearls. My six-year-old was less controlled. She touched her own jaw, eyes wide, and hid behind her mother. But when our turn came she held my hand and watched as I gathered up two vertebrae and something I didn’t recognize. The urn was small. Despite the shrinking caused by heat, most of her simply didn’t fit. We were told the leftovers would be stored at a temple in Ishikawa Prefecture. The urn, wrapped in paper, was passed to my sister-in-law’s husband. He held it carefully, chest high. Abrupt, the end. In the parking lot, my father-inlaw stepped forward to bestow a few quick pats to the sides of the urn. It was clear how much he coveted it. But he and his wife climbed into their car and drove home, empty-handed. Words: Matthew Mangham

GetHiroshima / Spring 2017

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