GetHiroshima Mag Autumn 2016

BE MORE THAN A TOURIST

Seasonal

Going Out

Visitors

Destinations

Festivals

Dining & Nightlife

Maps

Autumn Adventures

Autumn Colors

Events

Sights

Shopping

Shimane

Art

Getting Around

Fashion

THE AUTUMN ISSUE 2016

11

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getting around

Streetcar lines Hiroden Line #1 (Hiroshima Station > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #2 (Hiroshima Station > Miyajima-guchi) Hiroden Line #3 (Hiroden Nishi Hiroshima > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #5 (Hiroshima Station > Hijiyama-shita > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #6 (Hiroshima Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #7 (Yokogawa Station > Hiroden Honsha mae) Hiroden Line #8 (Yokogawa Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #9 (Hatchobori > Hakushima) Astram Line (Hondori > Koikikoenmae)

Asa Zoo

Meipuru~pu bus

(Kamiyasu)

Limousine bus (Hiroshima City > Hiroshima Airport) ori

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World Heritage Route (boat) (Peace Park > Miyajima)

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Chorakuji

Matsuyama Super Jet Ferry

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JR Ferry and Matsudai Ferry to Miyajima

Tomo Obara

Nakasuji

Transport Museum

Tomochuo

(Chorakuji)

Ozuka

JR Train Lines Nishihara

Astram Line fares vary according to distance.

Koikikoenmae

¥190~480

Big Arch Stadium

Gionshinbashikita

Ushita

Station JR

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Hiroshima Station

Katei Saibansho-mae Shukkeien-mae Jogakuin-mae Kamiyacho Higashi

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Hiroden Honsha mae

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The flat fare for inner city travel on the streetcare is ¥160 (child ¥80)

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Hiroshima Port

Miyajima

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The fare for travel on Miyajima bound streetcars varies according to distance. (¥260 to Miyajima)

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Museum of Art

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Big Wave

Hakushima

Yokogawa Station JR

Yokogawa Station

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Kabe Line

Mitaki JR

Mitaki Temple

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Fudoin Temple

Fudoinmae

(Koikikoenmae)

GetHiroshima Mag Issue 11 September, 2016 Circulation 10,000 copies Published quarterly by GetHiroshima Next issue December, 2016 Printed by Hiroshima Chuo Printing Co., Ltd. Motoaki Tahara

WELCOME I say it every year, but autumn in Japan is just great.

The clear blue skies and pleasant tolerable warm days and cool nights of the season are our reward for tolerating freezing winters, sticky monsoons seasons and howling typhoons (OK, typhoons are often part and parcel of autumn). Autumn is known here as the time for reading, eating and exercise.

Amazon takes care of the first and we’ve got the latter two covered. As well as our usual dining listings, we have a new regular feature on Hiroshima’s hearty helping of Michelin-starred eateries. Work off some of those calories by ziplining or shooting arrows in the woods out in the countryside. It’s also an amazing time to travel and we try to tempt you to explore the Iwami region of our northern neighbor, the land of myth, legend and spectacular sunsets, in Shimane Prefecture. Goto Izumi talks with one of our longest contributors and this issue’s “Face of Hiroshima”, Charlie Rose, to whom we say goodbye this autumn.

Thanks, Charlie for adding unbounding energy and support to the GHmag & best of luck with the next stage of your journey.

Editor-in-chief Paul Walsh Editorial assistance JJ Walsh Kismet Cordova

Cover: Charlie Rose Photo: Junpei Ishida

RIP Mac The sudden closing of legendary watering hole, MAC Bar, came as a shock to many here in Hiroshima, as well as to the bar’s worldwide diaspora. However, just before going to print we received the news that Mac himself had passed away. Hiroshima and the world has lost an incredible soul. He was a true original and will be remembered for many, many years to come.

We were lucky to have him and he will be deeply missed.

Paul Walsh

Design team NININBAORI http://nininbaori.co.jp/ Art Direction: Judith Cotelle Contributors Kismet Cordova Judith Cotelle Goto Izumi Matt Jungblutt Matt Mangham Charlie Rose JJ Walsh Photography Judith Cotelle www.jud-hiroshima.com Jumpei Ishida Charlie Rose http://charlieroselovelove.com/ Mish Vampiro Photography http://www.mishvampiro.com JJ Walsh Goto Izumi Paul Walsh

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CONTENTS 02 / Getting Around 03 / Welcome 04 / Contents 05 / GetHiroshima Picks 06 / Festival Focus 09 / Kagura 28 / City Maps 34 / Events 35 / Art 42 / Place Listings 46 / Eat The Day! 54 / Matt’s Moment

FEATURES 10 / Koyo Autumn Leaf Viewing Our guide to the gorgeous autumn colors in the countryside and near the city.

12 / Autumn Adventures Fly and shoot through the trees this autumn.

16 / The Road To Iwami Rural beauty, dramatic coastlines and spectacular folk culture across the border.

33 / GetHiroshima Awards 2016 Show some love for your favorite local spots.

36 / Orizuru Recycle Project Gifts that are easy on the environment and respectful of worldwide wishes for peace.

38 / Hiroshima Street Fashion Local kids take a bow.

48 / Eating The Stars Working through Hiroshima’s Michelin starred restaurants. It’s a tough job, but someone’s got to do it.

50 / Goto Izumi’s Deep Hiroshima Goto Izumi dives into Hiroshima’s burgeoning guesthouse scene.

52 / Hiroshima People Our fashion correspondent, Charlie Rose, talks about life lived in Japan.

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GetHiroshima picks You’ve been to the Peace Memorial Park and Miyajima. What next?

PEACE PAGODA

FAN FANTASTIC

KAGURA

Walk up Mt Futaba from Tōshō-gū shrine along a path that takes you under 100 red torii gates through an old growth forest to great views from the Peace Pagoda at the top.

Love for the Hiroshima Carp is unequivocal.

Baseball fan or not, a home game is always memorable. Soccer lovers can enjoy the Japanese stadium experience at a Sanfrecce game.

Ancient myths and folktales performed in extravagant costumes to frenetic drum rhythms, complete with dry ice, fireworks and exploding cobwebs.

City center shows at Kenmin Bunka Center every Wednesday night (p. 9)

MITAKI TEMPLE

EAT!

SHIMIZU GEKIJO

Cure Kyoto “temple fatigue” and calm the soul in the gorgeous verdant grounds of Mitaki Temple, 20min walk up the hill from Mitaki station (3 stops from Hiroshima on the Kabe Line).

Okonomiyaki is both a meal and a culinary performance. Oysters and tsukemen cold noodles in spicy dipping sauce are also local specialities. Wash it all down with some great local sake.

Step into the world of Japanese vaudeville performed by itinerant troupes with very loyal fans.

3hr shows at 12pm & 6pm (¥1900) or catch the 1hr finale for just ¥1000. http://bit.ly/shimizugekijo

SHUKKEIEN GARDEN

ISLAND HOP

OUT ON THE TOWN

Wander through the miniature landscapes in this city center garden or take a seat by the lake and watch the koi carp, turtles and birds. Lovely rain or shine.

Hiroshima Port is the gateway to the islands of the Inland Sea. Sleepy Ninoshima is the nearest. Don’t have great sea legs? Stroll the Ujina waterfront or walk over to Moto-ujina island.

We urge you to eat, drink, and yes, make merry with Hiroshima people. It’s only then that you can get a real appreciation of what a special place Hiroshima is and truly feel its message of peace.

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2016

/05

autumn Festivals With moon-viewing, brush-worshipping, candle-lighting, sake-sampling, fire-walking, baby-beating, rock-riding and, of course, harvest festivals that come with a healthy dose of dragon-slaying, matsuri come thick and fast during the autumn months.

Starting with the handcrafted boats of Miyajima’s Tanonmo-san, autumn is packed with celebrations, some age-old, others more recent, but all colorful and exuberant. September is the time to look up to the harvest moon, to reflect and enjoy tsukimi-dango sweets, and also of Kumano’s thank you to the calligraphy brush that has brought them fame. Autumn shrine festivals follow the harvest and local kagura dance troupes get very busy. In November, demons beat children in Onomichi and Hiroshima’s businesses court Ebisu.

TANOMO-SAN / 9/1 - MIYAJIMA

A little known, but delightful festival on Miyajima. Around 5pm locals start to assemble carrying little handcrafted tanomo boats, complete with passengers fashioned out of sweets to Shinomiya Shrine in Momiji-dani Park. Once blessed, the boats are carried to Itsukushima Shrine from where they are set afloat.

KUMANO BRUSH FESTIVAL / 9/23 - KUMANO

Kumano to the east of Hiroshima city has been a center of calligraphy fude brush production for over a century. Every year they give thanks with ritual brush-burning, giant calligraphy painting, brush dances, higan-bune boat spinning. This is one of our favorite local festivals. Kagura performances the night before.

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EBISU-KOU / 11/18-20 - HIROSHIMA CITY CENTER

Commonly known as Ebessan, this festival dates back over 400 years. The cherry chubby, fish-bearing Ebisu looks after commerce and is one of Japan’s most popular gods. Thousands line up to have brightly-colored komazarae rakes blessed and toss cash into a huge barrel at Ebisu Shrine. Lots of stalls and kagura shows too.

SHIRAKAMI-SAN / 10/28-29 - HIROSHIMA CITY CENTER

Shirakami Shrine on Peace Boulevard is one of HIroshima’s oldest, once marking the location of a rocky outcrop in the sea before the city expanded southward via land reclamation. The shrine’s autumn festival is very atmospheric and features kagura performances performed before an enthusiastic crowd on both nights.

BETCHA MATSURI / 11/1-3 ONOMICHI

On the final day of this 3-day festival, three fearsome masked demons parade the streets of Onomichi, beating and poking people with ceremonial rods and bamboo whisks to bring them good health, intelligence and fertility. It’s a great place to get photos of screaming babies being offered up by laughing parents.

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2016

/07

SANNOSE BONOMAI MATSURI / 10/9 SANNOSE, SHIMO-KAMAGARI ISLAND A community festival begun in 1980 to attempt to revitalize a community facing depopulation which draws on the town’s medieval history as an important port of call of Korean emissaries making their way to the imperial capital by sea. Local children perform folk dances the night before the main event, an 8 hour grand period parade.

|| 9/1 Tanomo-san, Miyajima (Page 6) || 9/9-11 Miyajima Mantoe Candle Festival,

Daishoin Temple, Miyajima 18:00-21:00 || 9/15 Moon Viewing Tea Ceremony, Shukkeien Garden 16:00-19:3 || 09/17 Sankeien Garden Moon Viewing,

Next to Hiroshima Airport, Mihara 18:15-20:40 || 9/17 Setoda Kangetsu-kai Moon Viewing, Setoda,

Ikuchijima island 17:00-20:30 || 9/17-18 Isonomiya-Hachiman-jinja Shrine

Festival Parade, Takehara 12:00-16:30

FUDOMYO FIRE WALKING RITUAL / 11/3 - DAIGAN-JI TEMPLE, MIYAJIMA

|| 9/19 Respect the aged tea ceremony & concert,

Shukkeien Garden 10:00-13:00 || 9/23 Kumano Fude Brush Festival (Page 6)

A large group of priests in colorful robes begin a drawn out ceremony that plays out in front of the Holy Fire Hall within the precincts of Daigan-ji Temple across from the public exit of Itsukushima Shrine. At around 2pm a large fire is lit and the priests, followed by members of the public, cross the ashes.

|| 9/24 Hiroshima Kagura Day, basement in front of

Hiroshima Station 12:30-14:00, 16:00-17:30 || 9/25 Hiroshima Kagura Day, basement in front of

Hiroshima Station 11:00-12:30, 14:30-16:00 || 10/8 Onomichi Akari Candle Festival,

Onomichi temples, Onomichi 18:00-21:00 || 10/9 Korean envoy parade reenactment, Sannose,

Shimo-Kamagari Island, Kure 10:45-15:00 (Page 7) || 10/10-11 Saijo Sake Matsuri (Page 8)

DAISHO-IN FIRE WALKING RITUAL / 11/15 - DAISHO-IN TEMPLE, MIYAJIMA © Lance Cpl. Benjamin Pryer

Arrive ahead of time to ensure a good view of this Shingon Buddhist ritual at Daisho-in Temple on Miyajima. Sutras are chanted from 11am and crowds gather before 1pm for the ritual lighting of the pyre of cypress branches. Around 2pm the head monk and mountain priests, followed by members of the public, make the walk across the embers.

SAIJO SAKE MATSURI / 10/8-9 - SAIJO, HIGASHI-HIROSHIMA CITY Thousands throng the narrow streets of Saijo’s brewery district to celebrate and sample (a lot of) the town’s highly ranked sake. The main tasting area is the Sake Hiroba in a local park for which you have to pay for admission, but there’s lots going on around town, mostly centered on food and drink.

Tip: Buy your return train ticket on arrival.

GRAND INOKO MATSURI / 11/5-6 - HIROSHIMA CITY CENTER A contemporary interpretation of the traditional Inoko Matsuri children’s festival in which a huge rock is suspended by ropes hung from a ring of bamboo stalks in Fukuromachi Park in the center of Hiroshima City to create an impressive art installation. Music and fun starts on Saturday, but the main action is from mid-afternoon on Sunday.

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|| 10/15 Children’s Kagura & Shishimai Lion Dance,

Toushougu Shrine 11:30-13:30 || 10/15 Kikka-sai Chrysanthemum Festival, Bugaku

court dance & music, Itsukushima Shrine,

Miyajima 17:00 || 10/16 Traditional music concert, Shukkeien Garden

10:00, 14:00 ¥2000, 12:30 free || 10/23 Sanno-jinja-sai, Bugaku court dance & music at

Sanno Shrine, next to Itsukushima Shrine,

Miyajima 10:00 || 10/22 (18:00~) 10/23 (10:00~) Ogashira Jinja Shrine,

Ono-cho, Hatsukaichi

(Taiko & kagura from 18:00 on 10/23) || 10/28-29 Shirakami-san (Page 7),

Shirakami-san Shrine, Peace Boulevard || 10/29-11/13 Chrysanthemum display,

Hiroshima Castle || 10/29-10/30 Takehara Bamboo Candle Festival,

Honmachi, Takehara 17:00-21:00 || 11/1 Betcha Matsuri, Ikkuya-jinja Shrine, Onomichi

(Page 7) (18:00~) 11/2 (11:00) 11/3 (07:30-18:30) || 11/1-11/13 Chrysanthemum display,

Shukkeien Garden || 11/3 13:00 Daiganji Firewalking Ritual,

Daigan-ji Temple, Miyajima (Page 8) || 11/3 Chrysanthemum viewing tea ceremony,

Shukkei-en Garden || 11/5-11/6 Grand Inoko Festival, Fukuromachi Park,

Hiroshima (Page 8) || 11/13 Maple viewing tea ceremony,

Shukkei-en Garden || 11/15 Daishoin Firewalking Ritual, Daishoin Temple,

Miyajima (Page 8) || 11/18-11/20 Ebisukou, Ebisu Shrine, Chuo-dori St,

Hiroshima (Page 7) www.gethiroshima.com/events

kagura spectacular folk theater for the masses

A giant, multicolored, eight-headed serpent writhes back and forth across the stage, attacking and entwining a sword-wielding hero. Engulfed in smoke, sparks spitting from its multiple jaws, the beast bites, spins and leaps, occasionally snapping at young children brave enough to come to the front of the stage. The hero, of course, eventually triumphs, severing each of the heads in turn, to the delight of the audience.

This is the thrilling conclusion to Yamata-noorochi, a crowd-pleasing tale from Japanese mythology, often performed as the finale at kagura festivals and competitions.

Kagura is a diverse art form with a variety of performance styles. That performed in northern Hiroshima and Iwami in Shimane is characterized by energetic dances in elaborate (and heavy) costumes, accompanied by stirring rhythms. While

you may not understand the dialogue, the exciting fight scenes, lots of dry ice, fireworks and lightning-fast costume changes keep the uninitiated entertained.

In Hiroshima city, kagura is most often seen at autumn shrine festivals. Every Wednesday, however, troupes come in from the countryside to perform at Kenmin Bunka Center near the A-bomb Dome. Non-Japanese readers are provided with basic English outlines of the two pieces to be performed. There’s also an opportunity to check out the masks and costumes up close and get some souvenir snaps after the show.

Those who would like to delve deeper into the world of kagura should make a trip out to Monzenmura Kagura Village in Midorii in Akitakata. Here, around 20 troupes take turns in performing in the “Kagura Dome” and the facility also has restaurants, shops, a hot spring and accommodation.

H I R OSH IMA K AGURA I N HIROSHIM A CITY CE N TE R Every Wednesday Night at

∼Hiroshima Prefectural Citizen’s Culture Center∼ (Rijo Kaikan Kenmin Bunka Center)

AUTUMN / WINTER Sept 7, 14, 21, 28

Oct 5, 12, 19, 26 Nov 2, 9, 16, 30 Dec 7, 14, 21, 28

300m from Peace Memorial Park Admission: ¥1,000 Doors open: 18:00 First performance: 19:00-19:40 Intermission: 19:40-20:00

November 23 (Wed)

Second performance: 20:00-20:40

Autumn Grand Joint Performance

http://www.rccbc.co.jp/event/kagura/

Open: 12:00, Start: 13:00, Close: 17:00 / admission ¥2000

GetHiroshima All seats unassigned. Tickets on sale from 17:00 on day of performance.

Photo session with players and costumes on stage / Autumn 2016after the show from 20:40

/09

Kono michi ya yuku hito nashi ni aki no kure All along this road not a single soul only autumn evening comes Basho (1694)

Koyo

How things have changed since Basho’s day. Vermillion, orange, russet, gold the colors of autumn are still spectacular, but on some days, thousands of tourists head out of town to stroll under glorious canopies of maple, poplar, beech and other trees from late October through November. On the busy weekends, the narrow leaf strewn trails fill with large numbers of enthusiastic leaf-watchers, some in their Sunday-best and others seemingly equipped for a day in the Alps. Weekdays are better.

Bring a sweater, wear walking shoes if you have them, and don’t forget your camera.

Hiroshima JR Station usually has an easy to read information board indicating the state of the leaves each day to help you decide where to go.

MIYAJIMA Tens of thousands of people descend on Miyajima during November to enjoy the autumn colors in Momijidani (Maple Valley) and around Daishoin Temple. The red bridge at the entrance to the valley is a favorite spot for a “classic” autumn shot. Further up in the valley the leaves are equally gorgeous, and Shinomiya Shrine looks amazing framed by the golden and crimson leaves.

Sometimes the crowds can be overwhelming, but it is surprising how easy it is to find relative calm by hopping off the main path. Those that hike up Mt Misen can be rewarded by some picture postcard views and pockets of splendid solitude.

Best viewing: Mid to late November

MITAKI TEMPLE The top spot for enjoying the autumn leaves within the city limits. Beautiful at any time of the year, Mitaki is particularly stunning when the leaves turn. Fallen leaves litter the pathways and lie cradled in the hands of some of the hundreds of statues that silently watch over the verdant grounds. You are unlikely to have the place completely to yourself, but, visit on a weekday, and you may well come close. Don’t leave it too late however, as the hillside temple falls into shadow fairly early in the afternoon.

Best viewing: Mid to late November

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SHUKKEIEN GARDEN

Very pretty at any time of the year, autumn colors further enhance this garden central enough to pop in for a quiet interlude in a day in the city. Informal tea ceremonies are held daily during the “Momiji Matsuri” at the end of November when there are extended opening hours and the red leaves are illuminated after dark.

Best viewing: Mid November to mid December

TAISHAKUKYO GORGE

Taishakukyo is another lovely spot. 15km of trail and natural features that include a 40m high natural limestone arch that straddles the path, but access requires your own transport. 3h 25 min from Hiroshima to Tojo Station by JR Kibi Line OR 2h from Hiroshima Bus Center to Tojo by bus. 20 min from Tojo Station to Taishakukyo.

Best viewing: Late October to early November

GOKURAKUJI TEMPLE

YOSHIMIZUEN GARDEN

This lovely private Japanese garden in Kake with beautiful autumn colors only opens the second and third weekends of November. A worthy stop off on the way to Sandankyo Gorge or a destination in its own right. 15 minutes drive from Togouchi interchange on the Chugoku Expressway

TSUTSUGA OICHO GIANT GINGKO TREE

SANKEIEN GARDEN

Sankei-en doesn’t have the history of Shukkeien in the city center, but this expansive garden located right next to Hiroshima Airport has its own very pretty “maple valley”. Kids enjoy feeding koi carp in the lake here too.

Best viewing: Late October to late November

SANDANKYO GORGE

Gokuraku-ji is a mountaintop temple in Hatsukaichi City originally established in the early 8th century and rebuilt in the 16th century by Mori Motonari. Many of the leaves on trees in the temple precinct and around the nearby lake turn a deep bright red in November and there are good views out over the sea. 30 minute drive up Rt 433 from Hatsukaichi City or a 90min-2hr hike from Hatsukaichi JR Station.

Best viewing: Early to mid November

BUTTSUJI TEMPLE

Hit this 16km long ravine in the north of the prefecture at the right time and the mix of the various autumn colors is simply gorgeous (see what I did there?). Even out of season, however, this is a lovely trail and well worth a trip for nature lovers. Please note that weather can change quickly up here, and even early snowfalls are possible so it pays to be prepared, however nice the weather may be in the city.

Best viewing: Late October to mid November

Buttsuji Temple is the head temple of a branch of Rinzai Zen. The mountain temple complex in Mihara City has a history that goes back over 600 years and today many people study Zen there.

The leaves here are absolutely stunning in the autumn and attract many, many people to view them. 40min bus ride from JR Mihara Station to the Buttsu-ji Temple bus stop Best viewing: Early to mid November

Many people make the trip out to this one single tree in the grounds of Otoshi Shrine in Akiota City.

This is no ordinary tree, however. Said to be over 1000 years old, this gnarled gingko tree is 8m around and almost 50m tall, and at the beginning of November the leaves turn the most incredible shade of yellow and carpet the ground. 5 minutes drive from the Togouchi interchange on the Chugoku expressway, this is another place that can be visited on a (self powered) trip to Sandankyo Gorge.

Best viewing: Mid November

OZEKIYAMA KOEN PARK

This riverside hillpark, a former northern getaway for Hiroshima’s nobility located just outside the center of Miyoshi City attracts many visitors in the middle of November when the entire mountain blazes red.

Best viewing: Mid November GetHiroshima / Autumn 2016

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Autumn Adventures Words /Photos : Paul Walsh & jjwalsh

“Deep in the meadow, hidden far away A cloak of leaves, a moonbeam ray Forget your woes and let your troubles lay And when it’s morning again, they’ll wash away Here it’s safe, here it’s warm Here the daisies guard you from every harm Here your dreams are sweet and tomorrow brings them true Here is the place where I love you.”

- Suzanne Collins, The Hunger Games

Forge deep into the mountains surrounding Hiroshima and you can discover some great adventures. Hiking is great, but why not raise the thrill level this autumn with some zipline action or shooting arrows in the woods?

zipline adventure osorakan

by Paul Walsh

Osorakan in the north of the prefecture is Hiroshima’s highest mountain and is best known for snow sports (including the world igloo building championships, would you believe). The mountain is also popular with hikers between April and November. The resort offers some out-of-season fun & games like ziplining. The standard 6 line course makes for a fun (and more exciting than expected) half-day activity that can add some extra zip to a trip to nearby Sandan-kyo Gorge.

(which got us a zipline discount) and were up bright, early and ready for the 9am session. It was only when we were undergoing our introduction to the harnesses, pulleys and safety precautions delivered via a mixture of Japanese, body language and hands on demonstration - that I really started to think about what we were about to do. This was Japan, not New Zealand, I thought. How scary could it be? They offer a joshikai discount for groups of young city women for goodness sake.

I accompanied my 9 year old and 13 year old kids on the zipline course in the middle of May. The weather and the views were gorgeous, but the bugs were biting, so I advise covering up and taking your favorite repellent. We stayed in one of the simple, but nice log cabins at the campsite

We started off on a dummy line for practice. My son and I were too tall. “Japan!” I scoffed to myself, secretly relieved that this was going to be a breeze.

Boring, but a breeze. I even started rehearsing my online gripes about being charged almost ¥3000 for six boring trundles across the slopes.

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We started off on the 70m Shinnyuzan Line. The kids sailed across the slope while I got a little spun around and slid up the finish ramp on my butt.

Like I said, a breeze. The second line, named after Sandan-kyo Gorge, was a little longer and we were challenged to reach out and touch a tree as we whizzed past it. My son nailed it, throwing in a little pose over the final few meters before landing lightly on his feet. Me, well I didn’t quite manage to touch the tree, or even to let go of the harness actually. Whatever.

On line three, the instructor invited us to twist the harness so that we would spin as we flew and have to right ourselves as we neared the end. …..OK. My twists didn’t really work. Faulty equipment obviously. Now halfway through, the kids were

having a blast, the instructor was entertaining and, although I wasn’t doing the prettiest zipping a line had ever seen I was having a good time.

Then, they had to go and ruin everything. After the exhilarating “Sarutobi” or “Monkey Jump” Line, named after a chasm in Sandan-kyo, it was up to the start of Juppozan Line, 10m above the ground.

Erm, chotto matte. Not only that, it was time to “mix things up a bit”. We switched our harnesses so that we would hang from our backs as we flew through the air, arms outstretched like Superman.

Err, OK. “1, 2, 3” and off went my son.

“1, 2, 3” and off went my daughter screeching with delight.

“1, 2, 3” and “Oops...”

Let’s try that again.

“1, 2, 3”, “Oops”.

It wasn’t my fault that my harness didn’t feel tight enough and my brain was telling my legs that if they left the platform I would plunge to my death.

Was it? By this time my kids were looking very puzzled from the other side of the gully. I tightened

the harness and “1, 2, 3” I was off. Not quite a leap of faith as a reluctant tumble of resignation. “You totally panicked didn’t you?” said my son. “Just one more to go”, I thought.

The final line is the longest at 106m and gives you the opportunity to show off all your skills and come up with your own flying style. The instructor flipped the harness and hung upside down like Spiderman. The kids reprised the Superman. I hit everyone with a kind of dead bug being swept across the floor stylee.

6 zips was more than enough for me and I had no complaints about the price once we were done. My kids loved the experience and were eager to try the “secret” advanced course. I found it surprisingly challenging, but also had a great time and have no hesitation in recommending the Osorakan Zipline Adventure. I’ll never diss a joshikai again.

Details Restrictions Height 120cm+ Weight 25kg-120kg No sandals (sneakers recommended) Prices Adults ¥3500 Children (Junior High School and younger) ¥2300 ¥300 discount if you stay at the campsite next to the course or are in a group of 4 or more women over 18 years old. ¥600 discount if you are a group of 4 or more women who are camping!

Schedule Three sessions on weekends and holidays 09:00, 12:00 and 15:00 Two sessions on weekdays 10:00 and 14:00 Access You have two choices of route after exiting the Chugoku Expressway at Togochi IC onto Route 191.

Going via Uchigutotouge [ 内黒峠 ] is only 17km from Togochi IC, but is an adventure in itself. The road is very narrow, steep and many, many tight turns and precipitous drop offs, without guard rails in many places. Continuing further along 191 past picturesque Mt Shinnyuzan before looping back to Osorakan along a two lane forest road is 33km, but will only take around 10-15 minutes longer than the shorter, more treacherous, route.

The 2016 Zipline season runs until November 3 http://www.osorakan.co.jp/summer/zipline.html [ja]

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saiki international archery land

It’s always been a secret desire of mine to run through the trees, letting arrows fly. So, when a friend mentioned that there was a dedicated forest archery center near Hiroshima, run by friendly people who speak excellent English, I knew I had to go and try it out.

Saiki Kokusai Archery Land is in Hatsukaichi, the same “city” in which the island of Miyajima is located. Hatsukaichi, however, covers a huge area that extends well into the mountains inland, and Archery Land is very much in the countryside.

Located about an hour’s drive from Hiroshima city center and offers half-day and full-day courses for (almost) all ages and abilities.

The staff are very welcoming and skilled at getting everyone set up (kids from 6 and up are very welcome too), teaching the basics and making sure everyone is armed with the necessary safety and shooting skills before heading off to the woods.

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by jjwalsh

Amazingly, Archery Land is open almost every day of the year - so whether you want to get your Katniss on in the depths of winter, shooting through snow laden trees, or Robin Hood it in autumn, or even tramp through in rain gear on a soggy summer day like we did, the facilities are open to you.

First, head up to the check-in area (if you have a large group it’s recommended to book in advance) and everyone gets geared up with arm-guards, bows, arrows and holsters. The staff will help you choose the best gear for your size and ability.

Then it’s off to the main practice field where the staff instruct you how to hold the bow, nock your arrows, point and shoot. It was a surprise to me how difficult it was to get the perfect positioning although many of the younger archers in our group picked it up almost immediately, attaining perfect form in a very short time. The staff were very supportive and encouraging and after a few rounds

of shooting and practicing safe arrow retrieval, we were given the all-clear to commence independent archery time.

It was raining quite hard by the time we were ready to go into the forest, but luckily we were prepared with rain gear and keen to try some archery in the wild, so we ventured in.

Far from spoiling the experience, the rain added to the sense of adventure and we even had some low hanging mist around the trees as we searched for our targets. The targets were spaced out around walking trails next to mountains and streams.

There was talk of Katniss, Robin Hood and even Rambo as we did our short loop course of just over 12 targets, which took us almost two hours at a leisurely pace. The five of us took turns shooting at each target, an exchange of supportive and encouraging comments followed before we collected our arrows and we all ambled on to the next target.

We had some awesome sharp shooters in the group, but as for me, I seemed to be getting worse as time went on. Note to self: pack a thermos of strong coffee and some good chocolate next time.

Luckily, we didn’t lose any arrows despite some poorly executed shots falling short and ending up in the quick-flowing stream below. As luck would have it, our group’s sharp shooters were also quick of foot saving us from being light of wallet.

I would heartily recommend a day of archery at this range to anyone looking to enjoy some of Hiroshima’s natural assets in an adventurous way.

Prices are very reasonable and there are English speaking staff at the facility too. Don’t forget to check the weather and pack appropriately for a few hours out in the elements.

Prices Field Course/Target Course (No time limit) ¥4000 (¥3500 Junior High School and under) Includes instruction Archery Experience (1 hour) ¥2500 (¥1800 Junior High School and under) Field Archery and BBQ Set (reservations required) ¥5000 (¥4000 Junior High School and under) The BBQ Set includes onigiri rice balls, chicken, beef, river fish and vegetables.

BBQ Set Only ¥2160 per person Opening Hours 09:00-18:00 everyday of the year except December 28-January 3 500 Tsuda, Hatsukaichi-shi, Hiroshima-ken 738-0222 〒 738-0222 広島県廿日市市津田５００ archeryland.com 0829-72-0437 Access Take Route 2 to Jigozen, just east of Miyajima. Then follow Route 30 as far as the Saiki-ku branch of the Hatsukaichi City Office where you take a right to reach Archery Land.

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the road to iwami Locals know Hamada for its beaches. It’s where we head for long, relatively white, stretches of sand and to frolick in the waves during the summer months. However, there is much more to Shimane Prefecture’s Iwami district, of which Hamada and Ohnan are a part. It is an area of Japan steeped in myth, and tales of gods and monsters are enacted at festivals by local kagura troupes. Its rural scenery has been largely unchanged for centuries, and if ancient shrines, hearty food, hot springs, dramatic coastlines and stunning sunsets are what you seek, the Iwami region is for you. Only a short drive from Hiroshima via the mountains of Ohnan, why not take the road to Iwami this autumn.

Top: Hamada Right: Kagura Bottom: Sea of clouds

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Gotsu

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HAMADA The most efficient way to explore Hamada is by car. You can be in the mountain onsen resorts in just over an hour and at the beach in around 90 minutes. No car?

Although Ohnan is a little tricky to get around under your own steam, much of Hamada is easily accessible by public transport and, for the more motivated, by bicycle or even on foot.

Hiroshima-Hamada Bus Hiroshima Shinkansen Station (15min later from Hiroshima Bus Center)

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For Ohnan: Local buses run between Mizuho IC and Koboku No Mori (6 a day on weekdays, 2 at weekends 짜200) http://www.town.ohnan.lg.jp/ohnanbus/img/ohnan/24.pdf [ja]

(red=express bold=free WiFi = Free for JR Rail Pass holders) Hiroshima-Hamada 짜3030 (one way), 짜5340 (round trip) Hiroshima-Mizuho IC (Ohnan) 짜2010 (one way) GetHiroshima / Autumn 2016

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Pick up maps and pamphlets at the Tourism Association at Koboku no Mori garden (below Craft-kan). http://www.ohnan-kanko.com/english/ E-mail: inbound@onantown.onmicrosoft.com

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step back in time & into nature at ohnan’s ancient shrines Temple and shrine fatigue is common among Japan visitors who move from city to city, ticking off the historical sites in their guidebooks. A surefire way to cure this affliction is, wait for it, more shrine visits. Here, however, I’m talking about shrines deep in Japan’s hinterland; in places that attracted worshippers centuries before the construction of the wooden buildings that became characteristic of Shinto. These shrines are green oases, surrounded by towering trees and giant boulders, accessed by moss-covered paths. It is these natural features that inspired awe in Japan’s ancient peoples. And when you take a few minutes to quietly take in the atmosphere, it is easy to appreciate why.

Ohnan’s rural shrines are worthy destinations in themselves and often offer fantastic views (read lots of steps and steep trails). They also serve as great points of interest that provide structure to country drives and bike rides through the beautiful inaka countryside. Set out early as you are sure to keep stopping to snap photos and explore interesting nooks and crannies along the way.

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suwa-jinja 諏訪神社 Suwa-jinja shrine, located on a small hill in the Yakami district, dates back to around 1100 years ago. A sub-shrine of one of Japan’s oldest shrines, Suwa Taisha in Nagano Prefecture, the god Takeminakata-no-kami is said to have been brought here to help bring a then untamed landscape under cultivation. Suwa-jinja is known for its many “1000 year old” cedar trees that line the approach and are dotted around the shrine grounds. Whether they are actually quite that old or not, they are truly impressive. Up to 5 meters in diameter and almost 30 meters in height, roots sprawling, many adorned with shimenawa ropes with paper shide streamers attached, some co-joined as if in some kind of eternal marriage, their scale simultaneously takes the breath away and calms the soul. One wonders about the changes that these silent guardians have witnessed and it’s saddening that several trees have succumbed to violent storms in recent years.

Look for the funa-ishi or “boat rock” in the rear of the shrine grounds. This rock, which looks more like a giant ladle to me, is said to have attracted many visitors when it was discovered in the mountains and was thought so impressive that it was moved over snow and ice to be dedicated to the shrine. The shape of funa-ishi is similar to that of the boat ridden by the Seven Gods of Fortune, so it is believed that rainwater that collects in the rock may have special properties.

Go Slow For those not in a hurry, I highly recommend leaving the car at Koboku no Mori herb garden, packing some snacks and taking a stroll down to Suwa-jinja via the many narrow farm roads that make their way through the patchwork of farm fields in the Ohochi Basin. Walk back, or take a local bus from Yakami.

NEARBY: DANGYOKEI GORGE

Dangyokei is not only a lovely place for a stroll over interesting rock formations alongside gushing waters, but one of the area’s best places to enjoy the autumn colors.

KOBOKU NO MORI

This botanical and herb garden is at the center of Ohnan’s visitor facilities, complete with a greenhouse to help you start your own garden.

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shizuiwaya-jinja 志都岩屋神社 Onamuchi and Sukunahiko lived in Shizu no iwaya; how many generations that have been passed by?

This beautiful mountain shrine is one of several places that lays claim to being the location mentioned in Japan’s oldest existing collection of poetry, the Man’yōshū. The Man’yōshū dates from around the 7th century and whether this is indeed the place where gods once resided, the great kagami-iwa (Mirror Rock), against which the stately shrine is built has been revered since prehistoric times. It is certainly impressive and is but one of a collection of rocky outcrops, all individually named, that protrude from flank of Mt Misen above. The rocks are all linked by a somewhat rough but walkable trail that passes through deep primordial forest of cedar, Japanese cypress, fir and asian oak. The light cast through the canopy and onto the rocks and foliage is just gorgeous. Close your eyes and imagine yourself back in the land of myth and legend. A 20 minute walk will take you to the 606m summit which offers fantastic views. The walk is short, but quite steep in places, so why not fill your bottle from the spring next to the shrine for a natural boost. The water is said to be highly effective against all kinds of maladies, so you might like to take some home with you too.

NEARBY: KUKI GINZAN SILVER MINE RUINS

This area doesn’t give up many of its secrets without a knowledgeable guide, but the river is very pleasant and GetHiroshima’s kids enjoyed skateboarding up and down the quiet road. To reserve a guide contact inbound@onantown. onmicrosoft.com/.

OHNAN RYOKOU MURA

The great pool is only open here in the summer, but it is a nice place to camp and BBQ. Plus, kids can enjoy a bit of bouldering and skating on the half-pipe.

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2016

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Tatsuiwa-jinja 龍岩神社 If you are going to make a habit of checking out Japan’s shrines and temples, you are going to have to do some climbing. The approaches to rural shrines in particular almost always involve some steps. Tatsuiwa-jinja in the Yairoishi area of Ohnan, however, demands adherents negotiate 443 steps before making their appeals to the gods. The climb can be dizzying, but does leave one with a real sense of accomplishment and stopping to enjoy the views through the trees over the neighboring village is an excuse to catch your breath on the way up.

The shrine itself is fairly small and of simple construction. The main point of interest, and original object of devotion, is the huge rock immediately behind the shrine building after which the shrine is named. Tatsu and iwa mean ‘dragon’ and ‘rock’ respectively and it is said that the rock looks like the head of a dragon, which, if you squint from the right angle, I guess it does. Speaking of names, the name of the neighboring village is Yairoishi which means ‘eight-colored rock’, named for the different hues of the Tatsuiwa. A small depression in the top of the rock is used for Shinto weather divination - if the hollow is filled with water on the shrine’s annual feast day on April 3rd, rain will be plentiful in the coming growing season. If it’s dry…

NEARBY: UZUI STATION

Uzui Station is on the picturesque Sankou-sen train line that runs between Miyoshi and Gotsu. The line runs high over a mountain valley, in the middle of which stands the station. You have to climb 116 stairs to reach the platform 30m above the valley floor.

KANDANI RICE TERRACES

On a list of Japan’s 100 top rice terrace locations, the winding road up the side of the mountain takes you through steeply stacked rice paddies and past traditional farmhouses all the way to tiny and picturesque Kaizumi Village.

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eat in ohnan

AJIKURA Ohnan’s pride and joy. Locally-sourced vegetables and wagyu beef prepared Italian-style and served in rustic-chic surroundings, Ajikura is the embodiment of Ohnan’s farm-to-plate ethos. Lunch courses are particularly good value. Reservations required for dinner.

Restaurant Irodori The casual appearance of this restaurant attached to Kiri-no-yu Onsen belies the quality of the fare on offer. You’ll find lots of hearty homestyle meals here, many made with local ingredients.

Choose and pay for your meal at the ticket vending machine and pass the tickets to the friendly staff.

Cafe Kamuri This informal restaurant is right next to Koboku no Mori over which the window seats offer nice views.

On the menu are Japanese and Japanese-style western dishes, plus burgers made with local premium beef and pork. Herb teas and lavender ice cream are made with herbs grown at the garden next door.

Jomonmura An eccentric Japanese Aladdin’s cave of antiques and hand sculptured objects adorn this cozy cafe with a stunning view over the Ohochi Basin from the shaded terrace in front. Delicious & healthy Japanese homestyle buffet dining features local vegetables. Coffee, tea & sweet sets also available.

Komejirushi A lovely cafe serving delicious drinks, organic sweets next to a river. A relaxing space with a stylish, rustic design, the floor to ceiling windows make you feel like you are sat in the woods. The excellent selection of local products also on sale look more like art exhibits than souvenirs.

Gelataria Cafe Mui Ice cream from local dairy & homemade gelato using local fruit has made Café Mui a must-stop favorite in Ohnan. Located across from the Koboku- no Mori herb garden, the soft-serve ice cream and desserts are made using their non-homogenized and additive-free fresh local milk.

stay in ohnan

Ikoi no Mura Shimane Sitting at the highest point of the Ohochi basin the rooms at Ikoi no Mura have excellent views, making it one of the best, and most comfortable, places to view the unkai “sea of clouds” phenomena. The view from the onsen hot spring is fantastic whether the clouds cooperate or not.

Kiri no Yu Onsen A great place to base yourself on a trip to Ohnan, especially if relying on public transport. Local buses run here from the express bus stop at Mizuho IC and it is right across the road from Koboku no Mori and near most of Ohnan’s visitor facilities. Nonstaying guests can also use the onsen.

Minpaku Staying with a local family is a great way to experience Japanese culture. Ohnan has good number of welcoming hosts with many years of experience catering for visiting skiers. Accommodation is often more simple than the other two lodgings, but very homely and you’ll be very well fed.

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iwami kagura 石見神楽 A kagura performance is a must see on a visit to this part of Japan. As we describe on page 9, it’s a highly entertaining and accessible artform. The Iwami region takes huge pride in its kagura tradition and you’ll see posters, murals, and souvenirs everywhere. There is even a large mechanical clock in front of Hamada Station which comes to life every hour, animated figures reenacting the slaying of the 8-headed serpent from the tale of Orochi. Many troupes perform and compete against each other throughout the year and most of the big kagura competitions are held in large concert halls. For the visitor, however, watching kagura at a local festival where the sake flows freely is always a memorable experience.

© 浜田石見神楽社中連絡協議会・アイ企画

In the Iwami region there are two main kinds of kagura. At more rural festivals you may encounter the slower roku-choshi style which gives an insight into an older, more traditionally “authentic” style of folk dance. More common, however, is the dynamic, high tempo hachi-choshi kagura with its special effects and incredible battle scenes. Some kagura festivals in Hamada go on all night, but shorter shows are held for visitors every weekend at which you can be guaranteed to see some of the most popular tales performed. Plus, you often get to take souvenir photos at the end!

hamada kagura schedule Sept 3 Sanku Shrine / 19:30-20:30 Over 16 Sept 3 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Sept 4 Aquas / 13:00-15:00 Sept 10 Asahi-sou, Asahi Onsen / 20:30-21:30 Sept 10 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Sept 11 Aquas / 13:00-15:00 Sept 11 Hamada Yuhi “Sunset” Park / 13:0015:00 Sept 17 Aquas / 13:00-15:00 Sept 17 Asahi-sou, Asahi Onsen / 20:30-21:30 Sept 17 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Sept 18 Aquas / 13:00-15:00 Sept 18 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Sept 19 Aquas / 13:00-15:00 Sept 24 Asahi-sou, Asahi Onsen / 20:30-21:30

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Sept 24 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Sept 25 Aquas / 13:00-15:00 Oct 1 Asahi-sou, Asahi Onsen / 20:30-21:30 Oct 1 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Oct 8 Asahi-sou, Asahi Onsen / 20:30-21:30 Oct 8 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Oct 9 Hamada Yuhi “Sunset” Park / 13:00-15:00 Oct 9 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Oct 15 Asahi-sou, Asahi Onsen / 20:30-21:30 Oct 15 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Oct 22 Asahi-sou, Asahi Onsen / 20:30-21:30 Oct 22 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Oct 23 Murodani-no-tanada Rice Terraces Autumn Harvest Festival / 09:30-15:00 Oct 23 Aquas / 13:00-15:00

Oct 29 Asahi-sou, Asahi Onsen / 20:30-21:30 Oct 29 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Nov 5 Asahi-sou, Asahi Onsen / 20:30-21:30 Nov 5 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Nov 6 Aquas / 13:00-15:00 Nov 12 Asahi-sou, Asahi Onsen / 20:30-21:30 Nov 12 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Nov 13 Aquas / 13:00-15:00 Nov 13 Hamada Yuhi “Sunset” Park / 13:00-15:00 Nov 19 Asahi-sou, Asahi Onsen / 20:30-21:30 Nov 19 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Nov 26 Sanku Shrine / 19:30-20:30 Nov 26 Mimata Onsen / 20:00-21:00 Dec 3 Sanku Shrine / 19:30-20:30

Taking it slow in Shimane I was at one of Hiroshima’s favorite seaside escapes, Hamada in Shimane. I had pedaled along the coast, wondered at the rock formations at Tatami-ga-ura, marveled at the cliffs and sweeping white beaches from Akabana headland before enjoying delicious fresh seafood and a relaxing bath at Senjoen, overlooking Kokufu Beach. My brief for the rest of the trip, however, was to go beyond the beaches, to take in onsens, museums, rice terraces, mountain hikes, to watch kagura and try paper making. Unfortunately, mechanical gremlins, had rendered my bicycle unrideable.

I pulled out the map and reviewed my options. From a train station down the coast it would be an 8km walk up a single mountain road to the rice terraces of Murodani and, from there, a short walk to the top of Mt. Taima which promised great views. After initially balking at the distance and the time I would lose, I recalled my backpacking days when inaccessibility was a bonus and I wouldn’t think twice about wasting a day to bag a good view. Inspired by my former unfeasibly long goateed self, I headed for the train station.

After a short ride which offered tantalizing glimpses of deep blue sea, punctuated by dark rocky outcrops, I got off at deserted Orii Station. I grabbed water at the Nihonkai Drive In, a 24 hour unmanned rest stop full of vending machines selling drinks, noodles, rice balls, candy and breads with mysterious fillings to be consumed at dimly lit tables. There was a small shrine in the corner, perhaps to ensure safe passage for long distance truckers.

A short walk brought me to the well marked turn to Mt. Taima. I walked past some houses, rounded a bend and, “Boom!”, or should I say “Aaah!”, I was deep in the inaka countryside. The asphalt road that climbed steadily into the mountains was as lovely as a trail. It was warm, but the breeze was refreshing, swishing through the leaves of the tall trees that lined the road. I passed farmhouses with walls adorned with bright flowers, pausing occasionally to view the verdant valley and, once, to inspect a snake, its guts spilled by a farmer’s truck.

The road twisted and climbed. I stopped at what Google described as a grocery store. Unsure, I contented myself with a chilled bottle of water from the machine. An elderly gentleman told me I would see the rice terraces soon. A giant stone torii gate on the left signaled the road to Mt. Taima. An ultrarunner puffed by.

The valley began to open and the road rose above innumerable rice fields. Looking back, beyond Japanese rooftops glistening in a sea of swaying green rice seedlings, I could make out the Japan Sea, and, this being the Japanese countryside, a power station far down the coast, its chimneys tiny and white.

Unwittingly walking past the designated viewing area and continuing to the neighboring valley was the best mistake I made all weekend. After wandering among the rice fields, taking the same photograph over and over, I returned to the “official” area, expended even more pixels, and encountered another snake, this one very much alive. A sign to Mt Taima sent me past some apparently famous rocks, along a trail to a forest road which deposited me at Taima-jinja, a beautiful shrine that dates from 889 with a well tended rock garden at its entrance. It turned out that the 599m summit of Mt. Taima is where every TV and radio station in the region places their towers. I arrived at a hazy time of day, so the commanding views were not the best, but it must surely be an amazing place to watch one of the region’s stunning sunsets. I bid a family that had driven to the summit farewell and returned to the shrine where the groundskeeper urged me to forgo the hiking trail for the road as there had been a lot of bear activity. I took his advice, and was rewarded with a badger sighting.

I was soon back down at the Nihonkai Drive In enjoying an ice cream. Tired, but very happy. We miss so much of what Japan has to offer, flying up and down the country by shinkansen or cutting through the mountains in a car. Sometimes even a bicycle is too swift for the inaka. Japan is all about the side roads.

This was a gorgeous one, taken on a perfect day, but there are thousands of them, just as beautiful, just as fascinating awaiting discovery. Sometimes you just need to pick a target, slow down and enjoy the journey.

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HONKAWA PARK

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Prefectural Office (Kencho)

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DON 1 QUIJOTTE

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Vegan Cafe Hijiyamabashi

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New King 11

5 Centre Point Danbara Shopping Center

Micks 9

DANBARAYAMAS

DANBARAMINAMI

Choi Choi Ya 2

18

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BILLY THE KID

19 Youin 21 6 Hallelujah

Bar Edge

namiki / nagarekawa area

Bon Voyage Enryuji Temple (Tokasan)

H H

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FUKUROMACHI PARK

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1

3 H

30\

H H

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ALICE GARDEN

Fuji Grand Shopping Center

H

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i

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3 Yamatoya

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HIRATSUKA PARK Kinzagai-dori Hondori

Danbara-1chome

H

SHINTENCHI PARK

Kinzagai-dori

Kyoba

H

HIGASHIHIRATSUKACHO 3 Cinetwin Hondori

HIROSHIMA BANK

Yagenbori-dori

nbor Yage

i i sh sh ga ba Hi ima Ebisu sh Ebisu-dori 2 Popeye Shrine ro Hi Ebisu-dori Ebisu-dori

NISHIHIRATSUKACHO TANAKAMACHI

MATSUGAWA PARK

Nagarekawa-dori

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MITSUKOSHI LABI

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MOMIJI BANK

6 Hatchoza FUKUYA

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KANAYAMACHO

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NISHIKOJINMACHI

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EBISUCHO

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KYOBASHICHO

HASHIMOTOCHO

Ek

NOBORICHO PARK

Enkobashi-cho

ashi

2

B Cinematographic and Audio-visual Library

H

11 Tennis courts

3

C

Legal Administration Office

ri

n-do

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YMCA

H

H

Chokakuji Temple

Jogakuin-mae

KYUGUCHIMON PARK Chuo Police Station Prefectural Office East Office

Momiji Bank

Tokyu Hands

H

Enryuji Temple (Tokasan)

oro

er-d

met

14

H

5

Jogakuin High School

Shukkeien-mae

Jogakuin Junior High School

H

H

Noboricho Junior High School

KAMI NOBORICHO PARK

KAMINOBORICHO

H

KANAYAMACHO

YAYOICHO

hi

ebas

D

Saka

H

TOBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

3

H

or i

OSUGACHO

Hijiyamashita

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3

JR

Fukuya

Hirosh Ban

H

H

Mato

MATOBACH

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Jo ho ku

1

H

2

MATSUGAWA PARK

Inari-machi

KYOBASHICHO

Kam iy bas anagi hi

H

Kyobashi

shi

Inarioha

INARIMACHI

i i sh sh ga ba Hi ima sh ro

H Yanagibashi

Hi

i

sh

iba

shigaw

a

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Hijiyamabashi

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Kyoba

shi

Ts u

HIGASHIHIRATSUKACHO

NISHIHIRATSUKACHO

H

Hiroshima Bank

H H Kanayama-cho

HASHIMOTOCHO PARK

HASHIMOTOCHO

Noboricho Primary School Memorial Cathedral for World Peace

NOBORICHO

TEPPOCHO

H

ma ba

HIRATSUKA PARK

Hij iya

Takeya Primary School

TSURUMICHO

TANAKAMACHI

i or -d ae

H

MIKAWACHO NAGAREKAWACHO

aku

d/ Hy

FUJIMICHO

im Ek

Fuji Grand Shopping Center

TAKARAMACHI

Momiji Bank

NOBORICHO PARK

Ebisu-cho

Hatchobori

Mitsukoshi Labi

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De17 nsha -

HATCHOBORI

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EBISUCHO HORIKAWACHO

-dor i

bisu

Fukuya

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TATEMACHI

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Hiroshima Municipal Hospital

Kencho-mae Prefectural Office (Kencho)

Kamiya-cho Higashi

1 2

KAMIYACHO

Hiroshima Bank

Bus Center (3F)

SOGO

Mizuho Bank

Kamiya-cho Nishi Rijo Kaikan16 Sun Mall Sumitomo Mitsui Bank

i

Outdoor 1 Family Pool Open July-August

2 HANOVER PARK

FORMER BASEBALL STADIUM SITE

6 4

OTEMACHI 1 Hondori

Mitsubishi Tokyo Hondo r UFJ Bank 4F

red

i (co ve

HONDORI

ash

8

Aioib ashi

15

12

Genbaku Dome-mae Hiroshima Naka Post Office

1

u oyas Mot shi ba

5 4

H

NAKAMACHI

/ Pe a

4

ce B lv

H

Buts PARCO Hiroshima uda n-do Information ri Former ALICE SHINTENCHI Plaza 3 4 Bank of FUKUROMACHI GARDEN Japan Don Fukuromachi FUKUROMACHI Fukuro-machi YAGENBORI Quijotte SHINTENCHI Primary PARK PARK School H H

Crystal H

dori

a-o-

KOMACHI

Heiw

10 Plaza

1 Dormy inn Chuden-mae

H

Shirakami Shrine

H

OTEMACHI PARK 1

7

H

wab

PARK

TOKAICHIMACHI

7

HONKAWACHO

Honkawa-cho

9

PEACE PARK

12

a-oh ashi

Heiw

H

Kokutaiji High School

Kokutaiji Junior High School

Hei

A

Tokaichi-machi

12 16

Honkawa Primary School

HONKAWA PARK

Ho nk bas awa hi

14

Tsuchiya Hospital

H

8 19

OTEMACHI

SEIBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

OTEMACHI PARK 2

Hiroshima Chuo Post Office Naka Ward Office

ri

HIROSEMACHI

5

DOBASHICHO

HONKAWACHO

NEKOYACHO

J-Hoppers

13

NAKAJIMACHO

4 Ikawa Ryokan

Bunka Koryu Kaikan

Aster Plaza

KAKOMACHI

Shiyakusho mae

KOKUTAIJI PARK

A

NISHITOKAICHIMACHI

1

ENOMACHI

ENOMACHI PARK

SAKAIMACHI Koami-cho Dobashi

KOAMICHO

2 KAWARAMACHI

Na Kan kajima zakib ash i

Funairi-machi

Kozaki Primary School Nakajima Primary School

Otemachi Commercial High School

Hiroshima City Hall

TAKEYACHO

C

ori

ae-d

a-do shim Haku ori

i

Shin-sum iyoshi bashi

HIGASHI SENDA PARK

Naga

Ek o- ima ha e sh i

ri

Chuo

wa-d

reka

B

do

a-

am

nbor

Yage

ori

iki-d Nam

a) Ta Shopkanobas1 hi ping Stre et

B

Takanobashi

dori

jiy

i

i-dor

KAMISHINONOMECHO

SAKI

Ekim

dori

aw

i-dor mach Tera

shiba shi

hi ibas Meij

20

Jizo-

Sky Walk Escalator

HIJIYAMA

Hi

-dori

NBARAHINODE

ri

UNAIRIMACHI

3 Sum iyo

A

-do Ozu

AMIKANIYA

awa

Geibi Line

Rijo-

COSTCO

MAZDA ZOOM ZOOM STADIUM

yasug

e

Ky a( aw

nk Ho

tag

nsen

ONAGAHIGASHI ONAGANISHI

u-o

Shinka

Sanyo

ri do o-

ASHIKANIYACHO

on eb Ak

CHI

Onaga Primary School

Moto

Lin ain oM ny Sa

city center

C

onmachi

Junior High School

List of places CULTURE

PL ACES FE ATURED IN THIS ISSUE

1

A-Bomb Dome - Map C [B-1]

18

Vegan Cafe - Map B

1

Burajiru -Map C [B-3]

p.46

2

Children’s museum - Map C [A-2]

19

Viale - Map C [B-2]

2

Eight - Map B

p.47

3

Cinetwin Hondori - Map B

20

Warung Matahari - Map C [B-3]

3

Guesthouse Lappy - p.29 [F-3]

p.50

4

Former Bank of Japan - Map C [B-2]

21

Youin - Map B

4

Hiroto - Map C [C-3]

p.48

5

Gallery G - Map A

5

Japanese Hostel Roku - p.29 [D-2]

p.50

6

Hatchoza Cinema - Map B

6

K’s house - Map A

p.51

7

Hiroshima City International House - Map A

7

The Evergreen Hostel - Map C [A-1]

p.51

8

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art Map C [D-3]

8

Tsuruya Kinchinyado- Map C [A-1]

p.51

9

Hiroshima City Tourist Information - Map C [B-2]

1

Bar Edge - Map B

9

Waiku - Map B

p.47

10

Hiroshima International Center - Map C [B-2]

2

BBB - Map B

11

Hiroshima Museum of Art - Map C [B-1]

3

Bon Voyage - Map B

12

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum - Map C [B-2]

4

Bourbon Square - Map B

13

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum - Map A

5

Centre Point - Map B

14

International Exchange Lounge - Map C [A-2]

6

Hallelujah Kitchen & Bar - Map B

15

Orizuru Tower - Map C [B-1]

7

Kemby’s - Map C [B-2]

16

Rijo Kaikan Kenmin Bunka Center - Map C [B-1]

8

Koba - Map B

17

Salon Cinema 1/2 - Map C [B-3]

9

Merchant of Venice - Map B

18

Shimizu Gekijo - Map A

10

Molly Malone’s - Map B

19

Shukkeien Garden - Map A

11

New King - Map B

12

Organ-za - Map C [A-1]

13

Southern Cross - Map B

14

Tropical Bar Revolución - Map B

ACCOMMODATION

NIGHTLIFE

1

Dormy Inn - Map C [B-2]

2

Hana Hostel - Map A

3

Hotel Flex - Map A

4

Ikawa Ryokan - Map C [A-2]

1

Don Quijotte - Map B

5

J-Hoppers Hiroshima - Map C [A-2]

2

Outsider Book Nook / Global Lounge - Map C [C-1]

6

Washington Hotel - Map B

3

Yamatoya - Map B

Map A: p.30 Map B: p.30 Map C: p.31

SHOPPING

EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS RESTAUR ANT & CAFES

HE ALTH & BE AUT Y

1

Artcafe ELK - Map C [B-1]

1

Family Pool - Map C [B-1] (Open July - August)

• Police 110

2

Choi Choi Ya - Map B

2

Green Arena Gym & Pool - Map C [B-1]

• Fire and Ambulance 119

3

Graffity Mexican Diner - Map C [C-2]

3

Higashi-ku Sports Center (Big Wave) - Map p.28 [D-1]

• 24 Hour Hiroshima Hospital Information in English Freedial

4

Kanak - Map C [B-2]

4

Laff Hair Design - Map C [B-1]

0120-169912

5

Kanawa (Kaki-fune) - Map C [B-2]

5

M’n Chiropractic - Map A

• 24h Emergency pediatric hospital (Funairi Byoin)

6

Kanawa ASSE - Map A

6

Square Salon - Map C [B-1]

082-232-6195

7

Kanawa Kaki Meian - Map A

• Multilingual Interpreting Service (Trio-phone)

8

Kissui - Map C [B-2]

082-247-9715

9

Micks - Map B

10

Miyabi-tei - Map A

11

Mokuren Okonomiyaki & Teppanyaki - Map A

12

Nagataya Okonomiyaki - Map C [B-1]

1

Global Lounge - Map C [C-1]

(09:00-23:00)

13

Otis! - Map C [A-2]

2

Popeye Media Cafe Ebisu-dori - Map B

• Resident Consultation & Interpreting Service

14

Rojiura Teppan Kotaro - Map C [C-3]

3

Popeye Media Cafe Hondori - Map C [C-1]

082-241-5010

15

Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki - Map A

• Immigration Information Center 0570-013-904

16

Tokaichi Apartment - Map C [A-1]

• Human Rights Counseling Center for Foreign Citizens

17

Teppan-ya Tyson - Map A

082-228-5792

32\

09:00-19:00 (April-September)

INTERNE T

09:00-18:00 (October-March) • TELL English counseling service 03-5774-0992

BEST OF

HIROSHIMA

AWARDS 2016 Show some love for your favorite restaurants, bars, and other spots in the city by casting your votes in the inaugural GetHiroshima "Best of Hiroshima" awards.

Visit http://gethiroshima.com/best2016/ to vote.

Winners will be announced in the winter issue of GetHiroshima Mag. THE CATEGORIES Best Okonomiyaki Best Japanese Food Restaurant Best Western Food Restaurant Best Non-Japanese Asian Food Restaurant Best Vegetarian-friendly Restaurant Best Café Best Dessert Best FIne Dining “Date Night” Restaurant Best OVERALL Restaurant Best Foreigner-friendly Bar

Best Swanky Bar Best Casual Bar Best Place to Dance Best Live Music Venue Best Festival/Event Best Import Store Best Kids Spot Best Daytrip Destination Best Cherry Blossom Viewing Spot Best Baseball Team

To vote and join our lucky draw, go online to http://gethiroshima.com/best2016/ No registration required, though be sure to enter your email to qualify for the lucky draw.

One ballot per IP address.

Enter your email address for the chance to win one of 10 ¥2000 vouchers good for department stores all over Japan!

SUBMISSION DEADLINE OCTOBER 31 201 6 http://gethiroshima.com/best2016/

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2016

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EVENTS HIROSHIMA SUNDANCE 2016

HIROSHIMA FOOD FESTIVAL

MIYAJIMA CROSS COUNTRY

f September 4

f October 29-30

f November 27

f Tsutsumigaura Beach Park, Miyajima

f Hiroshima Castle and Central Park

f Miyajima

For two days the streets and paths around Hiroshima Castle

Another local running event with a misleading name, all but

and Chuo Central Park are lined with around 300 stalls

100m of this “cross country” are on road. Nonetheless, it’s a

serving up local specialities from every part of the prefec-

corker of race with the out-and-back 15km course taking up

ture. If the weather is good, expect huge, hungry crowds.

and down some killer hills and giving runners a look at the

Vegetarians are advised to eat before they go.

little-visited beaches on back side of Miyajima. Entries are open until October 3 for 3km, 6km and 15km events.

HIROSHIMA CASTLE CHRYSANTHEMUM EXHIBITION f Late October-mid November

Hiroshima’s biggest “beach” party at Tsutsumigaura Beach

f Hiroshima Castle Grounds

Park on Miyajima. A day of live music, DJs, dance shows and sports, plus international food and drink stalls.

HIROSHIMA OKTOBERFEST

HIROSHIMA INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL

http://www.hicat.ne.jp/home/kawamoto/

HIROSHIMA FREIGHT TRAIN FESTIVAL f October 09:30-15:30 f Hiroshima rolling stock depot

(Hiroshima Sharyo-sho)

f November 11-13

This annual event flies under the radar, but is a must for

f September 5 - 15

f Motomachi CRED, 11F Pasela 11

train geeks and a good alternative for people worried about

Week days : 15:00 - 21:00 Holidays : 11:00 - 21:00

http://hiff.jp/en/

losing their kids at the Food Festival.

f Former Baseball Stadium Park

The beers aren’t cheap, but it’s free admission to the site

TAKEHARA SHOKEI-NO-MICHI CANDLE FESTIVAL

where there you’ll find German beers, food, a smattering of

f October 25-26, November 2-3 17:00-21:00

Japanese craft brews and, of course, Oompha bands.

f Takehara Historic Preservation District

http://hiroshima-oktoberfest.jp/

Takehara with its well preserved Edo-era merchant houses

(Opposite the A-bomb Dome)

makes for a very pleasant day trip at any time of the year, but the streets look particularly pretty when illuminated by candlelight. The main event is October 25 & 26, but a smaller area will also be illuminated on November 2 & 3

GRAND INOKO FESTIVAL f November 8-9 f Fukuromachi Park

This contemporary interpretation of the traditional “inoko” local festival still enacted by children in Hiroshima neighborhoods, a giant stone is suspended by the nothing more than a ropes hung from a ring of bamboo stalks to create an impressive art installation - on which you can bounce and swing! Music and fun starts on November 8, but the main action and the lifting of the rock happens from mid-afternoon on November 9. Not to be missed if you are in Hiroshima on this weekend.

BOTANICAL GARDENS ILLUMINATED f Saturday & Sundays September 10 - 25

09:00-21:00 f Hiroshima City Botanical Gardens

(Hiroshima-shi Shokubutsu-koen) Free shuttle buses to and from JR Itsukaichi Station Adult ¥510, Junior High and younger free

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ART

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

Hiroshima Museum of Art

Well-designed building in Hijiyama hilltop park. Interesting

One of the largest art museums in Western Japan with a

Works by Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso and many more great

sculptures and statues are dotted around the outside of the

large collection of Japanese nihonga painting, traditional

modern European painters in this small, but perfectly

museum that can be viewed for free. Map C p.31

Asian art crafts and 1920s and 1930s art. Map A p.30 13

formed museum near Hiroshima Castle. Map C p.31 11

10:00-17:00 Admission to the collection exhibition: Adult

09:00-17:00 Admission to the permanent collection Adult

09:00-17:00 Admission to the general exhibition: Adult

¥370, College students ¥270, High school students, seniors

¥510, College students ¥310, High school students and

¥1000, Seniors ¥500, College & high school students ¥500,

¥170, Junior High School and younger free.

younger free.

Junior high school and elementary school students ¥200

082-264-1121 https://www.hiroshima-moca.jp/

082-221-6246 http://www.hpam.jp/

082-223-2530 http://www.hiroshima-museum.jp/

8

Admission until 30 minutes before closing. Special exhibition charges vary and usually include admission to permanent collections. Closed Mondays (unless National Holiday when closed the following business day).Hiroshima Museum of Art and Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum open everyday during special exhibitions.

EXHIBITIONS

Kaii Higashiyama: Nature, Men and Towns

1945±5

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

Sept 17 - Oct 30 / Adult ¥1300 College/High School ¥900

Jul 30-Oct 10 / Adult ¥1030 College ¥720 High School ¥410

Junior/Elementary School ¥600 Gallery G Map A p.30 5

Junior High School and younger free

Private art space opposite the Prefectural Art Museum which holds weekly free exhibitions by local artists, designers and artisans. 082-211-3260 Tiger Tateishi & Yuichi Yokoyama Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art Shunsuke Matsumoto, Landscape with the Diet Building 1942 Collection: Iwate Museum of Art

Masterpieces from the Art Collection of Yasunari

Oct 28-Jan 22, 2017 Vibrant Green,1982 Nagano Prefectural Shinano Art Museum / Higashiyama Kaii Gallery

Kawabata Hiroshima Museum of Art

Anno’s Picture book telling stories

Sept 3 - Oct 16 / Adult ¥1300, College/High School ¥1000,

Hiroshima Museum of Art

Junior High School and younger ¥600 / Includes admission

Oct 22-Dec 11 / Adult ¥1200, College/High School ¥900,

to the general exhibition of modern european art. Some of

Junior High School and younger ¥500 / Includes admission

the exhibited National Treasures will be changed during the

to the general exhibition of modern european art.

period of the exhibition.

Tiger Tateishi, Red-Tiger Super Express, 1964 ©Tiger Tateishi Courtesy of YAMAMOTO GENDAI

M.C. Escher, the Master of Trompe L’oeil : Mysterious World of Prints Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum Nov 11-Dec 25

(National Treasure) Gishu 1771 by Yosa Buson, Kawabata Foundation

Mitsumasa Anno, Anno’s The Tale of the Heike © Kuso - Kobo

M. C. Escher, Reptiles 1943 HUIS TEN BOSCH Art Museum All M.C. Escher works © Escher Holding B.V.-Baarnthe Netherlands

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2016

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Orizuru Recycle Project: Prolonging Wishes for Peace Words / jjwalsh

FANO fan http://www.fano.jp/ ¥2700

The orizuru origami crane holds special significance in Hiroshima. The poignant story of the young Sadako Sasaki who folded cranes in the hope that it would help her recover from radiation-induced leukemia touched people across Japan and around the world, helping to make the orizuru a symbol of hope and peace. The Peace Memorial Park receives some ten million cranes each year, sent by groups from around Japan and the world.

While for many years, older cranes were incinerated, in 2002 it was decided that they should be stored, but storage space soon became an issue. In order to extend the life of the cranes and, in turn, the wishes of those who had taken the time and made the effort to fold and send them, a recycling project was launched. The project also aimed to reduce environmental impact and provide work opportunities for people with disabilities.

There are now more than 30 companies and organisations involved in the project recycling and repurposing the paper cranes into products such as business cards, fans, stationery, paper clay, jewelry and even clothing.

Blue “inori” earrings ¥756

The city is only able to recycle around 50% of the cranes it receives, but if visitors drive demand, that situation may improve. We would love to see this recycled peace crane paper used in making peace cranes and lanterns on August 6th which would help to close the loop, reducing waste while compounding wishes for peace upon more wishes of peace.

You can purchase a variety of these recycled orizuru products at the Peace Memorial Museum, Rest House information center and the Orizuru Tower gift shop.

Blue “inori” earrings ¥756

36\

Peace Memorial Park Coasters http://senbaduru.com/

Orizuru recycled postcards made by people with disabilities ÂĽ378 http://www.orizuru.npo-jp.net Scented Paper Crane Envelope & Postcard http://matsudaseitai.com/product_turu/

Hiroshima Peace Park Notebook, pen & bookmark set http://senbaduru.com

Tsuruhime paper clay http://www.tsuruhime.jp/ Hiroshima Peace Park Notebook, pen & bookmark set http://senbaduru.com

Hiroshima Peace Park Notebook, pen & bookmark set http://senbaduru.com

A-bomb Dome Pop-up Craft ÂĽ500 http://senbaduru.com

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2016

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FASHION

hiroshima street fashion: Kids Collection

Words / Photos: Charlie Rose http://charlieroselovelove.com/

emma, 13

Favorite subject: Humanities, History, and Geography / Current Style: Casual / What do you love about your style? It’s really easy but it still looks really good. / Favorite item: My pink jersey because I like how it contrasts with my black shorts. / Favorite place to shop in Hiroshima: I really like shopping at H&M or GAP because they have things that I really like and would wear. / Favorite place in Hiroshima: Hondori / Favorite thing to do in Hiroshima: I love to go to Hondori with my friends and do puri-kura and karaoke because I love my friends and it’s really easy to get there by bus!

himawari, 10

Favorite subject: Art / Current Style: Girly, Pop Style / What do you love about your style? How girly it is. / Favorite item: Matching friend bracelet because my friends also have the same bracelet. Plus it’s cute and fashionable. / Favorite place to shop in Hiroshima: Aeon Mall / Favorite place in Hiroshima: Aeon Mall / Favorite thing to do in Hiroshima: I love going shopping.

38\

The way we dress can be an excellent means of self-expression that is so important for development, none more so than in our formative years. It’s fun too. So, this issue, let me introduce some of Hiroshima’s younger residents.

sean, 11

Favorite subject: Library time! / Current Style: Snoopy/Peanuts themed clothing, sporty, colorful checkered clothing, and jeans. / What do you love about your style? The way the above styles go together. / Favorite item: My Puma athletic jacket with a Snoopy T-shirt because it has bright neon colors that make me stand out. I like the Snoopy T-shirt because he’s my style and my favorite character. He has a good sense of humor. / Favorite place to shop in Hiroshima: Uniqlo / Favorite place in Hiroshima: Miyajima / Favorite thing to do in Hiroshima: Hanging out with friends and family in the city.

soshun, 9

Favorite subject: Math / Current Style: Fancy, yet casual / What do you love about your style? It’s simple and clean. / Favorite item: My hat because it balances my fashion style out nicely. I think it’s cool! / Favorite place to shop in Hiroshima: Aeon Mall Fuchu (formerly Soleil) / Favorite place in Hiroshima: I like visiting temples and Shinto shrines. / Favorite thing to do in Hiroshima: Playing sports. I like soccer, swimming, and skiing.

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2016

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FASHION

hiroshima street fashion: Kids Collection hidden fashion treasures of hiroshima 5cinq A small boutique, mostly specializing in locally designed children’s clothing, 5cinq is every fashion conscious parent’s dream and worth a trip out to Kure. Owner Tomomi Kitani is welcoming and always impeccably dressed, reflecting the overall classic but fashionable vibe of her store. Tomomi has spent a short time overseas and she welcomes basic English greetings!

Open 11:00-19:00 (Closed Tuesdays) 2-2-19 Naka-dori, Kure-shi, HIroshima-ken 0823-27-5020 cinq@rondon.ocn.ne.jp

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Kan awa Proud producers of Hiroshima’s delicious oysters since 1867, the next chapter in Kanawa’s history begins at their new oyster boat restaurant next to Peace Memorial Park.

Ka k i fu ne Oys te r Boat Private gourmet experience

Premium cuisine, river view

on the Wakyu floor.

on the Seto floor.

Oyster, seafood or “best of Hiroshima” omakase courses.

Lunch ¥6480~ Dinner ¥12,960~ Reserv required, 1 course / customer

Fried oyster, oyster rice and sashimi lunches ¥3024~ 8 dish oyster selection ¥4860, full oyster banquet ¥12,960

Lunch: 11:00-14:30, Light meals: 14:30-17:00, Dinner: 17:00-22:00 (L.O.21:00) 5min walk from A-Bomb Dome (082-241-7416) Map C p.31 [B-2] 5 We welcome telephone reservations in English.

H ir os h im a’ s s fr es h es t oy st er Kanawa’s oysters are farmed in offshore waters that meet strict regulations.

Kaki Meian Oyster Bar Enjoy raw oysters with a glass of wine.

11:00-22:00 (L.O. 21:30) 6F Hiroshima Station ASSE Building (082-263-7317) map A p.30 7

ASSE Kanawa Casual setting, same great food.

11:00-22:00 (L.O. 21:30) 6F Hiroshima Station ASSE Building (082-263-3296) map A p.30 6

Kanawa Hiroshima Airport Compare oysters from around the world!

08:00-L.0 20:00 3F Hiroshima Airport (0848-86-8330)

English menus and ma jor credit cards accepted at all locations - www.kanawa.co.jp

Excellent Japanese cuisine served in stylish, smoke-free surroundings with traditional Japanese motifs.

Our English speaking staff are ready to welcome you on the 7th floor of the Sheraton Grand Hiroshima Hotel.

• Luxurious sushi bar • Intimate Teppanyaki grill • Spectacular Kaiseki meals • Relaxing bar perfect for pre-dinner cocktails or a nightcap • Private rooms for groups large and small,

Miyabi-tei

Lunch Set Menus

Dinner Set Menus

Lunch 11:30-14:00 (L.O.)

Sushi ¥2,057~

Sushi ¥5,000~

Dinner 17:00-21:00 (L.O.)

Teppanyaki ¥3,500~*

Teppanyaki ¥8,800~

Kaiseki ¥2,571~

Kaiseki ¥5,657~

Smoke-free Miyabi-tei Bar 17:00-23:30 (L.O.)

Delicious a la carte options also available.

Reservation / Tel: 082-262-7111 / map A p.30

HALLELUJAH KI TC HE N

&

B AR

www.facebook.com/hallelujah.kitchen.bar

Have a drink and some light food while enjoying the reggae, ska and rocksteady soundtrack or enjoy a full dinner. Western and Japanese food (fish, meat, salads, pasta etc is available). The staff don’t speak a lot of English, but are very friendly and welcoming and there’s a good chance you’ll find yourself laughing with them until well into the early hours.

18:00-05:00 Closed on Monday | Tel: 082-247-0199 Nakagawa bldg II 1F, 8-11, Nagarekawa-cho, Naka-ku, Map B p. 30 6

kanak Delicious, healthy, additive-free Indian food right next to Peace Park. Excellent lunch sets. Indian pub-style atmosphere at night with many a la carte dishes to choose from as well as curry meals.

Curry lunch sets from ¥780 Free refills of rice/nan at lunch Vegetarian, vegan and Halal food.

A la carte Kids sets ¥500 ~¥590 (ex tax) Party room available

Lunch 11:00-15:00 (L.O. 14:30) Dinner 17:00-22:30 (L.O. 22:00) 082-236-7308 Map C p. 31 [B-2] 4

English Menu

available at no extra charge.

* Weekday only

10

Dormy Inn

Hana Hostel

On Peace Blvd, very close to Peace Memorial Park. Free WiFi in all rooms. Free washing machine. Great traditional bath.

Single: ¥6500, Double: ¥9000, Twin: ¥11,500 082-240-1177 map C p.31 [B-2] 1

Clean and friendly. 3min from Hiroshima Sta. Common lounge and kitchen. Dorm beds from ¥2500, Private twin rooms from ¥3200/person.

No curfew, Free LAN/WiFi, Rental cycles 082-263-2980 map A p.30 2

Hotel Flex

Ikawa Ryokan

Stylish riverside hotel, rates include breakfast Singles ¥6825, Doubles from ¥11,555 The upper floor suites are really cool.

082-223-1000 map A p.30 3

Cozy, home-like atmosphere.

Japanese and Western rooms. Coin laundry.

S from ¥5940 / Twin ¥9720 / Tr ¥14,580 Quad ¥17,280 / Breakfast ¥756 www.ikawaryokan.net info@ikawaryokan.net 082-231-5058 map C p.31 [A-2] 4

J-Hoppers Hiroshima

Washington Hotel

Friendly base in an interesting neighborhood near Peace Park.

No curfew, Kitchen, Rental cycles Dorm beds from ¥2500, Private rooms from ¥3000/person map C p.31 [A-2] 5 082-233-1360

Hospitality, amenity and security right in the heart of Hiroshima.

All rooms equipped with great bathrooms and separate lavatory. WiFi in all rooms http://washington-hotels.jp/hiroshima/ 082-553-2222 map B p.30 6

Artcafe ELK

Cafe Lente

2nd floor cafe near Peace Park. Good sandwich lunches, drinks, vegetarian menu. Ask about vegan and gluten free dishes and their vegan desserts. International exchange spot.

10:30-22:00 (L.O. 21:30) 082-247-4443 map C p.31 [B-1] 2F 1

Escape the Miyajima crowds at this beautifully designed cafe. Wooden terrace. Great view of the floating torii gate, especially after dark.

From 11:00 Located along the water inlet between Kiyomori Shrine & Miyajima Aquarium.

Choi Choi Ya

Graffity Mexican Diner

Shiho serves Hiroshima tsukemen, yaki-ramen (fish stock base), side dishes and drinks in a relaxed atmosphere.

Eat, drink or both at the counter or a street-side table.

Can get quite lively late at night.

20:30-03:00 Closed Sundays & hols that fall on a weekday map B p.30 2

A spacious family-run diner serving homemade Mexican and US style foods. Great fresh salsa, highly rated margaritas and a good selection of tequila.

11:30-14:00 (L.O. 13:20), 18:00-24:00 (L.O. 23:00) 082-243-3669 map C p.31 [C-2] 4F 3

Micks

Mokuren Okonomiyaki & Teppanyaki

Lively and friendly izakaya. Casual atmosphere with good food, Japanese & western. Great selection of local sake.

Sun-Thur 18:00-3:00, Fri, Sat, days before Hols 18:00-5:00 Closed Wed 082-249-6231 map B p.30 9

Traditional and creative Hiroshima Okonomiyaki and a wide range of grilled teppan dishes on the 6th Floor of the Full Focus building across from Hiroshima JR Station.

Local oysters, sake and ice cold draft beer too.

10:00-23:00 (L.O. 22:30) 082-568-7850 map A p.30 6F 11

Nagataya

Otis!

Great okonomiyaki and plenty of space to sit, a stone’s throw away from Peace Park. Excellent understanding of vegetarian needs.

Mon-Fri 11:00-20:30 (L.O.) Sat 11:00-21:00 (L.O.) Sun, hols 10:30-20:30 (L.O) (Closed Tue & 4th Wed) 082-247-0787 map C p.31 [B-1] 12

Tex Mex and home-cooked food for meat eaters & vegetarians. Their vegetarian menu is one of the best in the city & includes vegan and gluten free dishes.

Kids very welcome. Eclectic BGM & live music.

11:30-22:30 (L.0.)

082-249-3885 map C p.31 [A-2] 13

Rojiura Teppan Kotaro

Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki

Young grill master Kotaro serves delicious seasonal dishes & drinks just off Peace Blvd.

17:00-02:00 (L.O. 01:30) Closed Tuesdays 082-249-1953 map C p.31 [C-3] 2F 14

Affable, soccer-loving okonomiyaki-ist serving Hiroshima’s favorite dish and drinks near Hiroshima Station.

11:30-14:00, 17:00-23:00 Closed Saturdays 082-236-7303 map A p.30 2F 15

Tokaichi Apartment Quirky, smoke free cafe in Tokaichi with some very interesting seating options. ¥850 set lunches served until 16:30.

11:30-23:00 (lunch L.O. 16:30) Closed Tuesdays 082-231-9865 map C p.31 [A-1] 1F 16

Vegan Cafe

Teppan-ya Tyson Tasty okonomiyaki, teppan dishes and a fun vibe in Okonomi Monogatari Ekimae Hiroba near Hiroshima Station. Mitsumura-san trained under okonomiyaki master Lopez, so look for double yolks and try the jalapeño toppings.

11:00-23:00 082-568-7838 map A p.30 6F 17

100% vegan food made with fresh local vegetables and all natural seasonings. Our multi-dish set meals are heavily influenced by traditional Buddhist temple cuisine.

12:00-17:00 Tuesday-Sunday. Reservations recommended.

082-247-8529, map B p.30 3F 18

Warung Matahari

Bar Edge

Excellent Indonesian cuisine prepared by Balinese chef Surasna. Vegetarian and Halal friendly. If you like it really spicy, ask Surasna to let you have it!

17:30-22:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-240-2082 map C p.31 [B-3] 20

Small underground club with a good sound system.

082-248-8146 map B p.30 1

Youin 陽陰 washoku bar Cheerful and mild-mannered “Take” Shimosaka has created something quite remarkable. Youin is relaxed enough to just enjoy a few drinks, but also offers some quite excellent Japanese cuisine which would be crazy to pass up. Take’s skill is immediately evident on presentation of the meticulously prepared Kyo-ryori dishes of his native Kyoto and modern washoku. The flavors he draws out of his seasonal and all-natural ingredients are simply exceptional.

082-249-7129 / 2F Nakagawa Bldg, 8-11 Nagarekawa-cho, Naka-ku 20:00-05:00 Map B p. 30 21 facebook.com/youin.hiroshima

BBB

Bon Voyage

All teams welcome at Ayaka’s “Baseball Baka Bar”. Ballgames on screen, an original cocktail for every team, OK to BYO food, and a $30 all night all-you-drink deal.

The menu is in US$ so check her daily rate for ¥ prices!

20:00-03:00 (from 17:30 if there’s a night game) Closed Monday, 082-541-7288 map B p.30 2

International bar with counter and 2 discount rooms in which to chill. Nice cocktails and some great food too.

Mon-Thur, Sun 18:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00 082-249-2380 map B p.30 3F 3

Bourbon Square Relaxed counter bar near Shintenchi Park. Great selection of bourbon, whiskies and fresh fruit cocktails. Plus some of the best tasting draft beer in the drinking district.

Mon-Sat 18:00-03:00, Sun 18:00-24:00 082-242-3668, map B p.30 2F 4

Centre Point Nagarekawa bar catering to a late night crowd that prides itself on its whiskey selection. DJs spinning at weekends, good source of local nightlife info.

Tue-Thur 20:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00-05:00, Sun 20:00-01:00 map B p.30 5F 5

Kemby’s www.facebook.com/kembyshiroshima High quality food in a casual atmosphere. Kemby’s has all the bases covered with tapas, pasta,Tex Mex, gourmet sausages, seafood and their famous burgers. Owner Prakash prides himself on his wine list and is happy to help you make the right choice.

The full drink menu includes international beers on draft and a selection of imported craft beers. Happy hours 17:30-00:30 selected alcohol ¥200 off Sun-Thur 17:30-24:30 (Food L.O. 23:30) Fri & Sat 17:30-01:00 (Food L.O. 24:30) / 082-249-6201 map C p.31 [B-2] 7

Koba

Merchant of Venice

Rock loving BOM is one of Hiroshima’s most welcoming and entertaining bartenders. He whips up some very tasty food too.

Chilled out drinking space with subdued lighting offering some interesting Japanese themed cocktails at the bar counter or in the darts lounge.

19:00-04:00 (L.O. 03:30) Closed Mondays 082-240-1155 map B p.30 3F 9

18-00-01:30 (L.O), Closed Wednesdays 082-249-6556 map B p.26 3F 8

New King Trendy and Pink, 2F bar run by the guys behind local hip men’s underwear boutique.

21:00-05:00 082-247-4487 map B p.30 2F 11

Organ-za Bohemian queen, Goto Izumi's avant-garde center of operations. Great decor, food, drink and bizarre stage shows.

Tue-Fri 17:30-01:30 (L.O.), Sat 11:30-01:30 (L.O.) Sun 11:30-23:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-295-1553 map C p.31 [A-1] 2F 12

Molly Malone’s

www.facebook.com/mollymaloneshiroshima Hiroshima’s authentic Irish pub. Great beer, great food, great service. The place to watch Premier League soccer.

Tues-Thurs 17:00~01:00 / Fri 17:00~02:00 / Sat 11:30~02:00 / Sun + Nat Hol 11:30~24:00 / Closed Monday / 082-244-2554 map B p.30 4F 10

Tropical Bar Revolución Southern Cross Spacious ex-pat bar particularly with an antipodean theme. Room to breathe in a smoke free atmosphere. www.facebook.com/southerncrosshiroshima 18:00-01:00 082-236-3396 map B p.30 4F 13

Don Quijote Huge discount store open every day until 5am.

Snacks, groceries, alcohol, medicines, souvenirs, cosmetics, electronics, costumes, household & sporting goods; you name it, they have it!

10:00-05:00 082-543-6711 map B p.30 1

TAX FREE 8%

Nobu’s popular 8F hangout, friendly and relaxed complete with balcony.

18:00-03:00~04:00 Closed Sun, hols map B p.30 8F 14

Outsider Book Nook/Global Lounge Used English books to buy or exchange.

Internet, cafe & meeting place. Lunches daily, bar from 19:00 Fri & Sat. Mon-Thurs 12:00-21:00 Fri & Sat 12:00-23:00, Closed Sun, hols 082-244-8145 map C p.31 [C-1] 2 1

Yamatoya

Laff Hair Design

Produced in limited quantities yet reasonably priced, a bottle of Hiroshima's top quality local Japanese sake makes for a great souvenir. www.piconet.co.jp/yamatoya/ 09:00-22:00 Closed Sundays 082-241-5660 map B p.30 3

Ippei’s skills and service have made him a huge hit among Hiroshima’s international community.

082-504-7636 (English line) map C p.31 [B-1] 4

M’n Chiropractic Dr. Naoki Morimoto trained in the US, speaks English and is highly recommended by one of our writers. Consultation & treatment ¥5000/ session http://mnchiropractic.jp/ Appointments by reservation only 080-962-5091 map A p.30 3F 5 Wed afternoon,Thurs, Sun & Nat Hols

Square Salon (Nail Salon) Japanese style nail care and nail art near Peace Memorial Park. Reservation by e-mail (English is OK): info@nail-square.com or come directly to the shop.

Mon-Sat 10:00-19:30, Sun, Hols 10:00-18:30, closed Tue map C p.30 [B-1]3F 6

Media Cafe Popeye Hondori / Ebisu-dori So much more than Internet in 2 city centre locations Internet access (PC), Free soft drinks, Shower rooms available (additional charge), Overnight stay OK Open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week Popeye Ebisu-dori map B p.30 2 Popeye Hondori map C p.31 [C-2] 3

eat the day!

Local residents share some of their favorite dining spots to keep you covered, morning till night.

breakfast

BURAJIRU ぶらじる

by Paul Walsh

The “Morning Set” or just moruningu as it is known in Japanese is a staple of Japan’s venerable kissaten coffee shops. I remember it being a revelation when I first discovered it on a long cycling trip around Shikoku back in the mid-90s. OK, so the coffee isn’t usually that great and they are often smoky, but these reminders of pre-Starbucks Japan will always have a place in my heart. If you feel the same, a visit to Burajiru (“Brazil”) is a must.

This is the cafe that, back in the late 1950s, launched a million moruningus. If you miss “set breakfast” time, go for some thick toast with jam.

Tel: 082-244-232 / Mon-Sat 7:00-20:00, Sun, hols 7:00-18:00 5-6-11 Ote-machi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi (on Takanobashi shopping arcade), map C p.31 [B-3] 1

lunch

SERA-NO-TOFU-YA 世羅のとうふ家

The rural town of Sera is famous for its gorgeous flowers, but the area also provides some delicious cuisine. If you don’t get particularly excited by tofu, Sera no Tofu-ya’s use of local ingredients to create an array of phenomenally diverse dishes (some including meat and seafood) will change your mind. My favorite is a square patty with a fluffy, vegetable-packed inside and crispy, tempura-battered outside.

Located just off the Hiroden streetcar track near Takasu Station in Nishi-hiroshima, Sera no Tofu-ya offers several excellent multi-course lunch sets for surprisingly low prices. Also check out their market for local tofu, produce, and prepared foods from Sera.

Tel: 082-507-1677 / 10:00-19:00 Lunch served 11:00-15:00 Closed Sundays 2-21- 13 Kogo-kita, Nishi-ku, Hiroshima (Located just southeast of Takasu Station)

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by Kismet Cordova

coffee

U-SHED

by jjwalsh

“Coffee with happy life” is U-shed’s motto and anyone who loves coffee will certainly be happy they made the trip south to this little cafe that shares space with organic clothing, funky knick-knacks and cactus plants. Hidden down a residential Ujina backstreet, the shop is beautifully designed and the young female barista pours some of the best espressos and lattes in Hiroshima. A full range of coffee drinks, some incredible homemade lemonade and some local gourmet chocolate, cookies & cakes as well as top-tier gelato. Everything we tried was so delicious, our group of 4 worked through almost the entire menu during a tasty break on a Sunday outing.

Tel: 082-258-5477 / 07:30-18:30 Closed Wednesdays 1-5-33 Ujina-kanda, Minami-ku Website: http://u-shed.jp/

drink & dessert

dinner

WAIKU わいく

by Judith Cotelle

Waiku is a small izakaya with a relaxed and casual atmosphere located in Fukuromachi, that serves o-banzai cuisine (small dishes), heartwarming oden, perfect for chilly autumn nights, and Japanese washoku cuisine that uses mainly local fish and vegetables. The very young staff and the décor made of light wooden tones and soft lights will make you feel right at home. They have a large selection of shochu and sake that they can recommend to pair with your food. You can sit at the counter or at tables.

Tel: 082-240-2050 / 17:30-24:00 Closed Monday Takata Bldg 2F, 1-9 Fukuromachi, Naka-ku, map B p.30 Website: www.waiku-hiroshima.com

EIGHT

9

by Charlie Rose

Eight is my go-to ‘After Work Date Night’ spot. After a long day at the office, sometimes you just want to kick off your shoes, lean back and cuddle up with a glass of wine. And eight is just the place. It has a clean, sleek, high-end club look, but without the ‘emptying your pocketbook’ effect. The center of the main room is home to an extensive collection of records that would be the envy of any music lover. Being able to enjoy desserts, snacks and a few drinks after dinner with great company and classic music, while lounging on pillow-like sofas is what keeps me coming back for more.

Tel: 082-545-5580 17:00-05:00 6F Leisure Building, Shintenchi, Naka-ku, map B p.30

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If you would like to share one of your favorite dining spots in a future issue send us a 100 word description with a photo or two to eattheday@gethiroshima.com GetHiroshima / Autumn 2016

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eating the stars Words / Photos: Matt Jungblutt

One of the nicest aspects of Hiroshima is that for such a relatively small city, we have a generous number of Michelin star restaurants; even better is that, at least when compared to many other cities, these restaurants are relatively affordable. When I arrived two and a half years ago, I made it my mission to eat at every starred restaurant in Hiroshima’s Michelin guide. There are sixteen stars with in the city of Hiroshima itself, so far I’ve had half of them. Half isn’t bad, considering that I’ve returned to a few multiple times. Then GetHiroshima made me a most interesting proposal… “How would you like to try them all, and get paid for it? You’d be our Michelin Man.” Body shape issues aside, I quickly accepted. My daughter once said, “Someday, I’d like to eat the moon.” Me, I’ll eat the stars.

Did you ever wish you had a private chef? A really good one? I have and it can be life changing.

Sadly downscaled, I don’t have one in Japan; In Hiroshima, however, we all have the next best thing, Chef Yoshiyuki Hiroto. He is able to take a suggestion and make it into a culinary reality that is not only slightly different to what you expect, but also better. Michelin lists Hiroto as a French restaurant, which is not exactly the case, as Hiroto is also very much Japanese at its core. And that core is very much the Birkenstock clad chef.

On my first visit, two years ago, after one of the best meals I’ve had in Japan, Chef joined us at the counter and made a confession. The meal had a few components that he would not have included for most of his guests, notably a brilliantly executed pressed squab, that paired wonderfully with a spicy Cabernet Franc. Chef divulged that he had overheard me speaking English in the background as my wife had made the reservation, and combined with our atypical wine request, he decided that we might have more adventuresome tastes than his regular customers. With this in mind, he ventured to use a few of his more daring recipes. As a good personal chef would do, he will discuss any aspect of the meal that you’d like, as well as a host of other food related topics. Over the course of seven visits, Chef has introduced us to where to find the best cheeses in the area, his favorite Tokyo restaurants, how his visits to Paris have become slightly disappointing, and his new favorite food trends - he highly recommends new Danish cuisine. We’ve also seen him playing with ideas that he’s yet to offer to patrons - a recent foie gras and sake experiment looked promising.

Occasionally, I’ve had to fight the urge to book dinner for the following evening, once having watched him prepare both granita and ice cream by hand

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for the next day’s guests as he offered advice on what to do with some foie gras I’d recently been gifted with. He recommends serving it on the dark bread offered at Andersen, by the way.

If it sounds as if we were given access to the inner workings of the kitchen, we were. The kitchen at Hiroto is completely open, in much the same way as a sushi counter or teppan restaurant, allowing you to see exactly what the the chef is doing. This creates an intimacy that is frequently missing from more pretentious high end restaurants. There are four seats at a beautiful counter made of a single piece of hardwood, but Chef can’t really recall what sort of wood it is exactly, but remembers that it’s heavy. These choice seats put you with a view of pretty much every part of the well organized and clean kitchen, allowing you to watch Chef and his ever present assistant move skillfully around the kitchen, and allowing them to be aware of exactly when you are finished with a course, need more bread, or a refill. There is also a dining area with tables for another twelve guests at modern wooden chairs around smaller private tables or one larger central table. Still, it’s the kitchen, which is roughly the same size as the dining area, that will draw your attention. Watching the two team members work separately for several minutes, one preparing sauces and checking the progress of later courses, as the other is deftly arranging vegetables on oversized white plates, and refilling someone’s wine; and then wordlessly arriving together at the preparation counter, in sync, one ladling an earthy truffle sauce over the vegetables as the other makes the arugula and asparagus stand just so. Some kitchens are noisy, cluttered, and chaotic places, that may be perfect for studying dominance hierarchy. This one has simple clean lines, is well organized, and calm, and with just

two people handling every aspect, although there is no question who is calmly guiding the entire process. There is a feeling of tranquility and quiet throughout the entire restaurant, without need for music or walls to hide the activities of the kitchen.

The cozy dark dining area - only the kitchen is undimmed - is seductive without being flowery and sweet, it is a straightforward and masculine sort of romance. And the staff knows when to step back and let you be, whether to enjoy your meal or the company of your partner or friends. As always though, with no more than a look, the restrained staff will immediately re-engage with you, the balance is welcoming yet no one is trying to be your new friend.

There is no menu, you choose a course level, by price, in advance, and Chef will design your meal.

We tend to opt for either of the two upper level courses, and have never been disappointed.

Usually at those levels there are between seven and nine courses including dessert. The menu varies by season, although much of it also changes daily depending on the availability of ingredients.

There is a constant balancing of French and Japanese influences, such as a recent second course of hamo (pike conger) paired with chilled fresh Japanese peach seasoned with a delicate sauce made from the fruit and fish, followed by a third course featuring lobster tails and fava beans, covered with a luxurious sauce made from the lobster roe and tomalley, which was then followed alternating fish, vegetable, and meat dishes. Regarding the meat dishes, Hiroto excels here with items that are both uncommon and magnificently flavorful, so having an audacious palate is well rewarded; our meals have included inoshishi (locally sourced wild boar) roast, the

aforementioned squab, and a sensational agneau de pré-salé (salt marsh lamb), while other patrons were dining on lovely looking, but less intriguing, beef tournedos (tenderloin).

Someday perhaps I’ll once again have daily nuisance of discussing what the evening’s dinner should be with another personal chef, but until then Hiroto is the perfect substitute.

The wine cellar is by no means extensive, but it has the right wines, at a variety of price points, although I frequently ask to have my courses paired with various recommended glass wines, allowing for more flexibility - four different glasses of wine paired throughout the nine courses generally runs much less than one bottle of good wine.

Chef is also very helpful when choosing a wine to pair with the day’s menu, also noting your personal preferences for future visits.

Hiroto ヒロト 4-17 Fujimicho Naka-ku - Map C p.31 [C-3] (Jizo-dori just off of Heiwa-dori) 082-247-9889

Chef Hiroto does not speak English, but you should not encounter too much difficulty making a reservation even if you have only basic Japanese. The quality service is evident even over the telephone.

You can also discuss any special accommodations, likes, dislikes, allergies, dietary concerns, or the occasion for the dinner at this time, and Chef will do his best to prepare for you. Reservations are a must, generally a day or more in advance to give Mr. Hiroto a chance to source the ingredients necessary, although it is sometimes possible to secure a table the same day if you allow them to decide a course for you. Of course, extraordinary requests might incur a higher charge, but you will be told that at the time of the reservation. When you are at the restaurant, other than choosing a wine and your after dinner beverage, you will not need to actually converse. You may, however, miss some of the finer points when the various courses are described to you.

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Rating* Atmosphere Uncluttered and spare. An open counter facing an open kitchen. Several intimate tables surrounding a larger one. Perfect for a romantic meal.

No evidence that children have ever been inside.

Staff are polite and completely free of attitude.

Ultra modern restroom with high end amenities.

No smoking.

Sound Hushed without being stifling. No piped in music, the focus is on conversation and the food. The kitchen is surprisingly quiet. A loud drinking party would be very out of place here.

Drinks and Wine Good selection of French wines, at fair prices.

Some after dinner cognacs and liqueurs. No cocktails in evidence, but there’s a bottle of Pernod that always catches my eye in the back of the kitchen.

Sparkling water and other beverages for drivers and nondrinkers.

Price The courses range from ¥5500, ¥8000, ¥10,500, to ¥13,000, including coffee and dessert.

Open Dinner from 18:00 until 24:00. Closed Mondays.

Handicap Access Street level, no major obstacles or stairs, slight step down in restroom. *What the Moons Mean Ratings range from one to five moons. One moon is awful or some major problem. Two moons, satisfactory, but not worth a long trip. Three moons, very good, worth making an effort to eat there.

Four moons, excellent, well worth making reservations far in advance. Five moons, life changing.

Recommended dishes If you have have a sense of adventure, by all means let Chef know in advance, and he will accommodate. If you are a bit more conservative in your tastes or are particularly squeamish about certain items, also let them know. The menu is decided daily, so I cannot recommend a particular dish.

The desserts are certainly not an afterthought, so save room.

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2016

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vol.

11

goto izumi's deep hiroshima

Guesthouse edition

Hiroshima is in the middle of a guesthouse boom. I’m not really a big fan of hostel style accommodation, but that could be because I’m not well versed in the ways of the guesthouse.

Maybe. With this is mind, I resolved to investigate Hiroshima’s burgeoning guesthouse scene, visiting some of Hiroshima’s funkiest little inns.

So, without further ado, let’s guesthouse!

case 1 "family" style

Japanese hostel roku ゲストハウス碌

[open since June 2014]

Roku is very lively and welcomes locals as well as hostel guests and could well be HIroshima’s most happening hostel. Highly recommended for younger travelers.

6-18 Hakushima Kukencho, Naka-ku / 082-221-6789 Map p.29 [D-2] 5 Special features • Guests and locals can mix at Roku’s “Cafe bar nana” • Special events held several times a month open to all Local Recommendations • Yokogawa and Tokaichi neighborhoods • English omikuji fortunes at HIroshima Gokoku-jinja Shrine • Oneness Coffee in Mikawa-cho

MAKO Guest House Lappy

[open since July 2012] Run by the friendly Mito-san and her rabbit, this was the only place I visited that offered stress-free tea ceremony and okonomiyaki cooking lessons.

1-7 Wakakusa-cho, Higashi-ku - Map p.29 [F-3] 082-569-7939 Special features Try an informal tea ceremony or cook up your own okonomiyaki for ¥500~

Mito-san 50\

Local Recommendations • Mitaki Temple • Futaba-yama (Peace Pagoda) • Sake in Saijo in Higashi-hiroshima

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case 2 "home ly style "

The evergreen hostel [open since June 2016]

Hazuki is full of energy and the place feels very lively. She’s sure to open to ideas from locals looking to collaborate.

case 3 "warm!" style

2F 2-4-17 Honkawa-cho, Naka-ku / 082-576-6611 - Map C p.31 [A-1]

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Special features Group hikes, parties and a co-working space are just some of the things Evergreen is planning. Sure to be beacon for locals looking to improve their English and a great place to get a sense of travel without leaving home.

Local Recommendations • Irori Sanzoku restaurant (Iwakuni) • Okunoshima “Rabbit Island” • Kure and Onomichi

hazuki tetsu

Tsuruya Kichinyado つるや木賃宿

[open since July 2016]

case 4 "melting Pot" style

With a trio of well-heeled trendy lads who also like to DJ at the helm, Tsuruya should be a great jumping off point for nights out on the town and perfect for those who want to live it up a little. Ask about chartering a yacht or a Rolls Royce!

2-1-7 Honkawa-cho, Naka-ku / 082-942-5500 - Map C p.31 [A-1]

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Special features Great riverside location. Spacious enough to host parties, workshops and other gatherings. Tsuruya have some stylish events planned for the coming months.

Local Recommendations • Touring neighborhood shrines • Purple Tongue Bar (Nagarekawa)

K's House

1-8-9 Matoba-cho, Minami-ku / 082-568-7244 - Map A p.30

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[open since September 2008]

A great place to experience a true travelers’ hostel. I was surprised that not “everyone” is necessarily welcome, but have great respect for their refusal to compromise on their mission.

mayumi case 5 "cosy" style

Special features A true backpacker’s hostel with a real international feel.

Local Recommendations • Watching people go crazy on dance games in game arcades Warning and Tips from K’s House ❤ • We are not a business hotel or a place to crash out if you miss the last train after drinking.

• In the lounge and other shared areas guests must read the mood and act accordingly.

• We expect our guests to try and communicate in English as much as possible.

• Follow these guidelines and hostels can be a fun way to get an insight into backpacking and maybe even feel like you’ve taken an overseas trip without leaving you own country, or even city.

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2016

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life in japan — Charlie Rose — Words: Goto Izumi / Photos: Junpei Ishida

Charlie Rose’s street fashion pieces and boutique profiles have been a regular feature in GetHiroshima Mag. In her time in Hiroshima she has been a whirlwind of activity and we’re very sad to hear that she is moving on this autumn. Charlie reflected on her time in Japan with Goto Izumi.

I first met Charlie Rose back in 2014 at a Pecha Kucha Night where she talked about her clothing designs. To be honest, it was the presenter more than her designs to which I was initially drawn.

She just seemed to be such a lovely young lady. I wasn’t the only one. She was the center of attention, and from that day Charlie Rose started popping up here, there and everywhere.

How long have you lived in Japan?

Almost three and a half years.

Why did you come to Japan?

I’ve loved Japanese fashion since I was 13 years old when I saw a Harajuku magazine at my local library. I studied apparel design and merchandising management at college, but the US economy wasn’t so great when I graduated, so I came to Japan with the goal of gaining experience in the Japanese fashion world.

What expectations of Japan did you have before you came?

Whenever I saw Japanese people on TV in the US, they always spoke English. So, I expected everyone to be fluent in English.

Why did you choose Hiroshima?

When I interviewed in America for my first job in Japan, I requested to be sent to Tokyo. At the time, there were no positions available, so I was offered a position in Hiroshima. Looking back, I’m very happy about how things turned out. Hiroshima’s people and culture are beautiful, inside and out.

Every day here has been a real gift.

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What’s been the best thing about coming to Japan?

It’s common in the US to assume that people in Hiroshima hate Americans, so I was initially a little nervous. I was truly blown away by how kind and friendly the people here are.

Charlie Rose always appeared to be having the most wonderful time here.

Always surrounded by friends, at all kind of events. Modelling in magazines and appearing on TV. Selling drawings… I really thought she had found the key to the ideal life in Japan.

What challenges have you taken on while in Japan?

I’m actually a very shy person, but I made it a point to always say yes whenever someone mentioned an event or part-time gig. This has led me to being on TV and radio, modeling for magazines, giving presentations about my clothing brand, etc. All in Japanese. It was really difficult for me at times, but I’m so glad I was able to overcome my shyness.

I met a lot of wonderful people in the process and it proved to be great experience.

What’s your favorite place in Hiroshima?

My favorite place is Ruby made-to-order-dress shop. I’m so happy I got to work there with my sensei, Kura Tomomi. She’s been like my Japanese mother and I feel so blessed to have had a home away from home.

Although I’ve traveled a lot, I’ve never lived overseas. A day to day life in a foreign country is immensely appealing, but the prospect of mastering a new language and adjusting to new customs is, however, quite scary. I’ve always live here, so I have no idea if Japan is an easy place for people from overseas to get along in. Japan is safe, prices are currently low and the culture is interesting. Hiroshima

seems particularly popular among non-Japanese, so I’ve always thought it must be a good place.

What has been the toughest thing about living in Japan?

Appearance wise, I really look very much like a gaikokujin, so people tend to stare out of curiosity.

Many say that, after a while, you learn to ignore it, but I’ve never really learned how to tune it out so it can be a bit stressful at times. I’ve realized that even though I’ve gotten better at Japanese and making friends, no matter how long I live here, I’d always be a gaikokujin. No matter how good my Japanese got, I’d always be on the outside, looking in. This has been a difficult realization for me, but I’ve come to understand it.

What have you worked hardest at in Japan?

At the language. I didn’t know any Japanese when I arrived, so making friends has been difficult.

I really wanted to be able to communicate with Kura-san at Ruby, so I worked hard, and studied even harder. For the first couple of years I spent about 15 hours a week studying. Looking back now, I wish I’d studied more. *laughs* I was shocked when I heard that Charlie was returning to the US. Her life seemed so fun. She’s so popular, she’s made it, I thought. But, it is not as simple as it seems. Japan can be hard. I’m sorry about that, Charlie. As tough as things may have been, I hope you’ll think fondly of Japan.

Do you think Japan is an easy place to live for non-Japanese?

Yes and no. It’s different for every foreigner who comes here, but I think it’s really difficult for most.

The cultures is different, the food is different, the language is different which makes anything and everything a challenge. Daily life can be exhausting.

What skills have you acquired during your time in Japan?

Survival skills. With no ability to speak the Japanese language, everything was initially a HUGE struggle. It really felt sometimes like I was fighting a battle for survival. I think now I could probably live just about anywhere in the world and it would be a lot less stressful. I also set up my own company here, so I’ve learned something about hands on entrepreneurial spirit and not just what they teach you at University. Of course, I’ve also learned a bit of Japanese and improved my design and garment construction skills.

What advice would you give to people from overseas who want to make a go of it here?

Relax. Everything will be difficult, but that’s okay.

By coming to Japan, you learn about the whole world. You appreciate that everywhere has its own culture and way of thinking. Relax, enjoy the differences and perhaps you can make a new life for yourself. And don’t worry if you make a few mistakes along the way! Mistakes are how we learn. :) And the key to success in Japan?

Always say, ‘Hai! Shitai!’ ”Yes, I want to give that a go!” You have to be open to all the chances and new opportunities that come your way and be ready to work hard.

Charlie’s experience must be a common one, one with which Japanese living overseas can also surely empathize. Starting afresh somewhere new will always be a struggle. I’m impressed by those who leave the comfort of their own countries to try to make a life in Japan. I feel very lucky that I have crossed paths with some of them and, however far they may go, that they remain friends. Your friends and new adventures await your return.

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2016

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Matt’s Moment

Hagoromocho

Sitting with a group of travelers not long ago, I was asked with regard to Japan, “What’s the deal with this place?” I had no answer. Before coming to Japan I knew as much about the Land of Oz (Munchkins to the west, Winkies in the east, stay out of poppy fields) as I did about this country, and after sixteen years things haven’t improved as much as you’d think.

But however befuddled Japan sometimes leaves me, I love Hiroshima, especially my little corner of it. I live in Hagoromocho, a small neighborhood that stretches along the west bank of the Motoyasu river in Hiroshima’s central ward. Years ago the area was occupied by Bansho-en, a formal garden built by the Asano clan, the city’s former lords. The river was lined with pine trees and residents, many employed in the garden, would drape laundry on the branches to dry. Visitors were reminded of the magical shawl hung on a pine in the old story Tennyo no Hagoromo (the Shawl of the Celestial Maiden), and the little neighborhood acquired the name Hagoromocho (the cho means town or neighborhood).

The pines are gone and the riverbank, still natural when my wife was a child, isn’t now. The last remnant of Bansho-en survived until shortly after I arrived. The largest camphor tree I’ve ever seen stood by a pond. The wind in that tree, a survivor of both the atomic bombing and the fires that followed, sounded like the sea. Gray herons nested there, and the low, cautious whooping of owls announced nightfall. At the base of the trunk was a tiny Inari (fox) shrine of unknown age, and

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when plans were made to remove the tree some of the old folk warned of the misfortune that would certainly befall whoever wielded the saw, or even that the entire neighborhood might be plagued by a now homeless fox spirit. A petition went around, and phone calls were made to local television stations. But the tree came down in the end, dismembered gradually over days to leave a disquieting blankness in the air above the pond, which was filled to make space for apartments.

Hagoromocho today is an older neighborhood.

Burned to the ground in 1945, houses went up after the war, including our own. It was an affluent district, with bank presidents and post-war industrialists competing subtly (or less so) to build houses that were slightly grander or just visibly larger than the ones to either side. But as many of the children raised in those houses left, and their parents passed away, land along the river went on the market. Enterprising islanders from the Inland Sea soon realized that they could bring boats up the river, dock along the banks, and operate mainland businesses while still being within striking distance of home. And so the neighborhood got its first love hotels. Even those have had their day now, and are being abandoned and replaced by apartments. For the moment, though, we still have the Hotels Venus, France, and the Banana as neighbors.

This evening I head out. It’s a Monday in August, and the night is still warm. Wandering the streets of Hagoromocho, things are quiet. There’s the steady background hum of traffic on Route 2 two

bridges north of the house. Away from the main street, the houses have flower boxes out front.

Nothing fancy, just the frank, guileless sort of flowers you buy for 80 yen a pot at the hardware store. Some of the doors are propped open to encourage a breeze, and you catch glimpses of the life within. A man in a white undershirt smokes while sprawled in front of a television, an old woman tends to a tiny bird in a cage. The regulars are in their regular seats at the counter of the little okonomiyaki shop, and a short, beery burst of cheer rings out from the darts bar. All very companionable, very settled. Overhead, a heron gripes in prehistoric tones at the hiss and pop of storebought fireworks drifting from the river. You hear fewer fireworks this summer than you did ten years ago. The kids are growing up and leaving again, I suppose. Our autumn Inoko Festival has shrunk alarmingly, but there’s hope the new apartments coming in will bring young families.

As I turn left down a side street back toward the river, I chance upon the only music I hear tonight, coming through a slatted window screen. A child, moving resolutely through a practice piece on a piano. I don’t recognize the tune, but I recognize the playing from my own daughter’s lessons.

Lingering there in the street, I fall in love with Japan, or at least Hagoromocho, all over again. But I still couldn’t tell you what the deal is.

Words: Matthew Mangham Photo: Judith Cotelle

Beautifully presented Japanese kaiseki cuisine and Italian fare with commanding views of Peace Memorial Park on the 15th floor of the Sunroute Hotel.

吉水 KISSUI

VIALE Original interpretations of Italian standards with an excellent wine

Multi-course traditional kaiseki lunches and dinners using the fresh-

selection.

est seasonal ingredients served in a relaxed atmosphere.

6 course dinner ¥4500

GetHiroshima Special Kaiseki Dinner ¥4500

Bagna càuda, antipasto selection, pasta, meat or fish, dessert, bread & tea or coffee.

Appetizer, sashimi, simmered dish, grilled dish, beef, rice, miso soup, pickled vegetables, wagashi dessert.

Set lunches from ¥1800, Antipasti, salad, pasta, bread, tea or coffee (dessert buffet +¥380)

Lunch Kissui-gozen Kaiseki ¥2800 (Weekdays), Seasonal Kaiseki ¥3900

Fantastic value!

Lunch 11:30-15:00 (L.O. 14:00) Dinner 17:00-21:30 (L.O. 20:00) closed 2 irregular days a month

Lunch 11:30-15:00 (L.O. 14:00) Dinner 17:00-21:30 (L.O. 20:00) closed 2 irregular days a month

A la carte also available at dinner / Credit cards accepted / Non-smoking

Credit cards accepted / Tables, tatami and horigotatsu seating / Non-smoking

• Prices include all taxes and service. • Images are for illustration purposes, actual product may differ.

15F Sunroute Hotel, 3-3-1 Otemachi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi, Map C p.31 [B-2] / Kissui 8 082-249-5657 / Viale 19 082-244-3069

Hiroshima’s new landmark 13th Floor Observation Deck The crowning glory of Hiroshi Sambuichi’s innovative building design. Based on Japanese shrine design, walking out onto the open wooden constructruction is instantly soothing, and it offers a bird’s eye view of the A-bomb Dome and Peace Memorial Park, as well as views to Hiroshima Castle and the island of Miyajima. It’s the perfect place to enjoy the sunset with a beverage from the Akushu Wind Side Cafe and someone special.

12th Floor Orizuru Plaza The “orizuru” origami crane has come to symbolize wishes for peace all over the world. Here, friendly bilingual staff are on hand to guide you through folding your own orizuru to donate or take home as a momento. Send your creation, made with specially designed paper, into the 50m tall “Orizuru Wall” for an additional fee. The interactive digital displays are a playful means to introduce children to the idea of the peace crane and its connection to Hiroshima’s tragic history.

1st Floor Souvenir Select and Akushu Café The ground floor is open to all, free of charge.

Here you‘ll find a selection of around 1000 locally produced and themed gifts and the Akushu Cafe. The smoke-free cafe has pleasant terrace seating and offers snacks, light meals and sweets. The drinks menu includes quality coffee, as well as other hot and cold drinks. Alcoholic drinks available include local sake.

Admission: 18 years and over ¥1700 / 12-17 years ¥900 / 6-11 years ¥700 / 4-5 years ¥500 Purchase an inclusive “Throw-in Ticket” in the lobby for an additional ￥500 to throw your orizuru paper crane into the “Orizuru Wall” (or pay and additional ￥600 on the 12th Floor).

Located North-East side of Peace Park, just behind the Genbaku Dome, map C p.31 [B-1] 15 Open: 10:00-21:00 (until 9/22) 10:00-19:00 (from 9/23 - provisional) - www.orizurutower.jp