GetHiroshima Mag Autumn 2015 by GetHiroshima

BE MORE THAN A TOURIST

Seasonal

Going Out

Visitors

Life

Festivals

Dining & Nightlife

Maps & Getting Around

Shopping

Autumn Leaves

Events

Sights

Hiking

Deep Kure

Art

Sake Town Saijo

SUP

THE AUTUMN ISSUE 2015

Streetcar lines Hiroden Line #1 (Hiroshima Station > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #2 (Hiroshima Station > Miyajima-guchi) Hiroden Line #3 (Hiroden Nishi Hiroshima > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #5 (Hiroshima Station > Hijiyama-shita > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #6 (Hiroshima Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #7 (Yokogawa Station > Hiroden Honsha mae) Hiroden Line #8 (Yokogawa Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #9 (Hatchobori > Hakushima) Astram Line (Hondori > Koikikoenmae)

Asa Zoo (Kamiyasu)

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Limousine bus (Hiroshima City > Hiroshima Airport)

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Meipuru~pu bus

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Bish

Chorakuji

World Heritage Route (boat) (Peace Park > Miyajima)

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Oma

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Furu

Matsuyama Super Jet Ferry

Tomo Obara

Nakasuji

Transport Museum

Tomochuo Ozuka

¥190~480

Big Arch Stadium

Gionshinbashikita

Ushita

Hakushima

(Fudoinmae)

Yokogawa Station JR

Kencho-mae

Betsuin-mae

Tera-machi

Hiroden nishi Hiroshima

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Hiroshima Station JR

Hakushima Line, All Destinations,

¥110

Hakushima

Hiroshima Station

Shukkeien-mae Jogakuin-mae Kamiyacho Higashi

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Hondori Peace Park

Okonomi-mura mae

Funairi-minami-machi

Nisseki byoin mae

Hiroden Honsha mae

Minami machi 6-chome

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The flat fare for inner city travel is ¥160, (child ¥80)

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¥160

Moto-Ujina-guchi Hiroshima Port

Miyajima

Matsuyama

The fare for travel on Miyajima bound streetcars varies according to distance. (¥260 to Miyajima)

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Museum of Contemporary Art

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Mazda Stadium

Matoba cho

Hatchobori

Tate-machi

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Katei Saibansho-mae

Bus Center

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Nishi Hiroshima Station JR

Sanyo Main

Museum of Art

Yokogawa 1-chome e

(Ushita)

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Yokogawa Station

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Big Wave

Shin-Hakushima

Kabe Lin

Mitaki JR

Mitaki Temple

Miyajima Guchi JR

Fudoin Temple

Fudoinmae

(Koikikoenmae)

JR Train Lines

Nishihara

Astram Line fares vary according to distance.

Koikikoenmae

JR Ferry and Matsudai Ferry to Miyajima

(Chorakuji)

Peruvian, Spanish & Mexican Food & Drinks Lunches from ¥600 15:00-19:00 Happy hour drinks and tapas ¥350

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International DJ bar Open till 5am 365 days of the year No cover Sunday-Thursday ¥1000 cover Friday & Saturday (incl 1 drink) Happy Hour ¥350 drinks 20:00-22:00 Music requests OK! No cover for ladies Fridays

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CONTENTS

WELCOME For a brief couple of days this summer, Hiroshima was the focus of global attention during the commemorations of the 70th anniversary of the A-bombing. Normality returned as quickly as the world’s media packed up their equipment and Hiroshima’s citizens continued with their lives; lives that embody the city’s message of peace, every day of the year, year after year. Now, summer is past and autumn is upon us. Arguably Japan’s best season, it’s time to get out and enjoy the gift of life to the full. Hit the festivals, enjoy the events. And don’t forget to hit the trails (or the rivers) to make room for all the great food and sake! Paul Walsh

02/ Transport Map 03 / Welcome 05 / GetHiroshima Picks 13 / Kagura 14 / Fashion & Shopping 20 / City Maps 25 / Sponsors 30 / Events 31 / Art 38 / Matt’s Moment

FEATURES 06 / Koyo Autumn Leaf Viewing The sakura of the autumn, our guide to Hiroshima’s autumn colors. 08 / Festival Focus A packed festival season includes a period parade resurrected after a 200 year hiatus and a modern take on a traditional children’s ritual. 17 / SUP City Gonna have some fun on Hiroshima’s waterways.

Cover: Ryuji Nishikawa “Magic Island” Photo: Junpei Ishida

18/ Sake Town Saijo One of Japan’s top sake production centers is only a short train ride away. 32/ Goto Izumi’s Deep Hiroshima: Deep Kure Discover ‘the real Japan’, warts and all in the backstreets of Hiroshima’s neighbor. 36 / Hiking Mt Gokuraku-ji Follow in the footsteps of pilgrims past to a historic temple, great views, a beautiful lake and a nice hot bath.

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GetHiroshima Mag Issue 7 September, 2015 Circulation 5,000 copies Published quarterly by GEC Next issue December, 2015 Printed by Hiroshima Chuo Printing Co., Ltd. Motoaki Tahara Editor-in-chief Paul Walsh Design team NININBAORI http://nininbaori.co.jp/ Art Direction: Judith Cotelle Katsuyoshi Kunimasa Norimitsu Maki Ryouta Kumagai Contributors Izumi Goto Matt Mangham Charlie Rose http://charlieroselovelove.com/ JJ Walsh Yuki Imai Kanae Matsuzaki Kaho Matsuda Seira Yoshimoto Nami Watanabe Yuki Okano Chika Ikeda Yuka Fujimoto Kokoro Kasai Shizuka Ishibashi Photography Judith Cotelle www.jud-hiroshima.com Jumpei Ishida Mish Vampiro Photography http://www.mishvampiro.com JJ Walsh

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All rights reserved © GetHiroshima 2015 As far as we are aware, all info correct at time of going to print. If you see something that has changed, we’d really appreciate you letting us know at info@gethiroshima.com Warning/Disclaimer GetHiroshima and GEC World will not accept liability for any damages caused by the contents of GetHiroshima Mag, including, but not limited to any omissions, errors, facts or false statements. Opinions or advice expressed in GetHiroshima Mag are not necessarily those of GetHiroshima or GEC World. No content published in Get Hiroshima can be reproduced, republished, retransmitted or redistributed without permission.

GetHiroshima picks You’ve been to the Peace Memorial Park and Miyajima. What next?

PEACE PAGODA

FAN FANTASTIC

KAGURA

Walk up Mt Futaba from Toshogu shrine along a path that takes you under 100 red torii gates through an old growth forest to great views from the Peace Pagoda at the top.

Love for the Hiroshima Carp is unequivocal. Baseball fan or not, a home game is always memorable. Soccer lovers can enjoy the Japanese stadium experience at a Sanfrecce game. Page 30.

Ancient myths and folktales performed in extravagant costumes to frenetic drum rhythms, complete with dry ice, fireworks and exploding cobwebs. See page 13 for more details.

MITAKI TEMPLE

EAT!

SHIMIZU GEKIJO

Cure Kyoto “temple fatigue” and calm the soul in the gorgeous verdant grounds of Mitaki Temple, 20min walk up the hill from Mitaki station (3 stops from Hiroshima on the Kabe Line).

Okonomiyaki is both a meal and a culinary performance. Oysters and tsukemen cold noodles in spicy dipping sauce are also local specialities. Wash it down with some great local sake.

Step into the world of Japanese vaudeville performed by itinerant troupes with very loyal fans. 3hr shows at 12pm & 6pm (¥1900) or catch the 1hr finale for just ¥1000. http://bit.ly/shimizugekijo

SHUKKEI-EN GARDEN

ISLAND HOP

OUT ON THE TOWN

Wander through the miniature landscapes in this city center garden or take a seat by the lake and watch the koi carp, turtles and birds. Lovely rain or shine. Regular cultural events on page 12.

Hiroshima Port is the gateway to the islands of the Inland Sea. Sleepy Ninoshima is the nearest (20min). Don’t have great sea legs? Stroll the Ujina waterfront or walk over to Moto-ujina island.

We urge you to eat, drink, and yes, make merry with Hiroshima people. It’s only then that you can get a real appreciation of what a special place Hiroshima is and truly feel its message of peace. GetHiroshima / Autumn 2015

/05

Kono michi ya yuku hito nashi ni aki no kure All along this road not a single soul only autumn evening comes Basho (1694)

Koyo

How things have changed since Basho’s day. Vermillion, orange, russet, gold the colors of autumn are still spectacular, but on some days, thousands of tourists head out of town to stroll under glorious canopies of maple, poplar, beech and other trees from late October through November. On the busy weekends, the narrow leaf strewn trails fill with large numbers of enthusiastic leaf-watchers, some in their Sundaybest and others seemingly equipped for a day in the Alps. Weekdays are better. Bring a sweater, wear walking shoes if you have them, and don’t forget your camera. Hiroshima JR Station usually has an easy to read information board indicating the state of the leaves each day to help you decide where to go.

MIYAJIMA Tens of thousands of people descend on Miyajima during November to enjoy the autumn colors in Momijidani (Maple Valley) and around Daishoin Temple. The red bridge at the entrance to the valley is a favorite spot for a “classic” autumn shot. Further up in the valley the leaves are equally gorgeous, and Shinomiya Shrine looks amazing framed by the golden and crimson leaves. Sometimes the crowds can be overwhelming, but it is surprising how easy it is to find relative calm by hopping off the main path. Those that hike up Mt Misen can be rewarded by some picture postcard views and pockets of splendid solitude. Best viewing: Mid to late November

MITAKI TEMPLE The top spot for enjoying the autumn leaves within the city limits. Beautiful at any time of the year, Mitaki is particularly stunning when the leaves turn. Fallen leaves litter the pathways and lie cradled in the hands of some of the hundreds of statues that silently watch over the verdant grounds. You are unlikely to have the place completely to yourself, but, visit on a weekday, and you may well come close. Don’t leave it too late however, as the hillside temple falls into shadow fairly early in the afternoon. Best viewing: Mid to late November

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SHUKKEIEN GARDEN

Very pretty at any time of the year, autumn colors further enhance this garden central enough to pop in for a quiet interlude in a day in the city. Informal tea ceremonies are held daily during the “Momiji Matsuri” at the end of November when there are extended opening hours and the red leaves are illuminated after dark. Best viewing: Mid November to mid December

TAISHAKUKYO GORGE

Taishakukyo is another lovely spot. 15km of trail and natural features that include a 40m high natural limestone arch that straddles the path, but access requires your own transport. 3h 25 min from Hiroshima to Tojo Station by JR Kibi Line OR 2h from Hiroshima Bus Center to Tojo by bus. 20 min from Tojo Station to Taishakukyo. Best viewing: Late October to early November

GOKURAKUJI TEMPLE

YOSHIMIZUEN GARDEN

This lovely private Japanese garden in Kake with beautiful autumn colors only opens the second and third weekends of November. A worthy stop off on the way to Sandankyo Gorge or a destination in its own right. 15 minutes drive from Togouchi interchange on the Chugoku Expressway

TSUTSUGA OICHO GIANT GINGKO TREE

SANKEIEN GARDEN

Sankei-en doesn’t have the history of Shukkeien in the city center, but this expansive garden located right next to Hiroshima Airport has its own very pretty “maple valley”. Kids enjoy feeding koi carp in the lake here too. Best viewing: Late October to late November

SANDANKYO GORGE

Gokuraku-ji is a mountaintop temple in Hatsukaichi City originally established in the early 8th century and rebuilt in the 16th century by Mori Motonari. Many of the leaves on trees in the temple precinct and around the nearby lake turn a deep bright red in November and there are good views out over the sea. 30 minute drive Rt 2 up Rt 433 from Hatsukaichi City or a 90min2hr hike from Hatsukaichi JR Station Best viewing: Early to mid November

BUTTSUJI TEMPLE

Hit this 16km long ravine in the north of the prefecture at the right time and the mix of the various autumn colors is simply gorgeous (see what I did there?). Even out of season, however, this is a lovely trail and well worth a trip for nature lovers. Please note that weather can change quickly up here, and even early snowfalls are possible so it pays to be prepared, however nice the weather may be in the city. Best viewing: Late October to mid November

Buttsuji Temple is the head temple of a branch of Rinzai Zen. The mountain temple complex in Mihara City has a history that goes back over 600 years and today many people study Zen there. The leaves here are absolutely stunning in the autumn and attract many, many people to view them. 40min bus ride from JR Mihara Station to the Buttsu-ji Temple bus stop Best viewing: Early to mid November

Many people make the trip out to this one single tree in the grounds of Otoshi Shrine in Akiota City. This is no ordinary tree, however. Said to be over 1000 years old, this gnarled gingko tree is 8m around and almost 50m tall, and at the beginning of November the leaves turn the most incredible shade of yellow and carpet the ground. 5 minutes drive from the Togouchi interchange on the Chugoku expressway, this is another place that can be visited on a (self powered) trip to Sandankyo Gorge. Best viewing: Mid November

OZEKIYAMA KOEN PARK

This riverside hillpark, a former northern getaway for Hiroshima’s nobility located just outside the center of Miyoshi City attracts many visitors in the middle of November when the entire mountain blazes red. Best viewing: Mid November GetHiroshima / Autumn 2015

/07

autumn Festivals

kumano brush festival

9/23

The small town of Kumano, in the hills about 18km east of Hiroshima city, has been a center for handmade calligraphy brush or fude production for well over a century. Every year on the national holiday which commemorates the autumn equinox, the town celebrates the brushes which have brought it (some) fame and (considerable) economic fortune.

The shrine is also host to an impressive autumn ritual in which local men spin a large higan-bune (“equinox boat”) fashioned from bamboo. This boat has been hauled through the streets of the town before being pulled up the steep steps that lead up to the shrine. After the higan-bune is spun around, excited children crowd the boat to grab sweets cast from deck.

Fude are, of course, the stars of the show. Crowds gather to watch the dramatic painting of a giant canvas with an oversized brush. Brushes whose work is now done, are cremated en masse, their souls released with the billowing smoke. Passers-by stroke the soft bristles of giant brushes suspended above the steep stone staircase to Sakakiyama Shrine where women in costume perform brush dances.

Among the stalls selling brushes are those selling the usual grilled and skewered festival fare, and on the stage set up in the school playground, middleaged women dance hula and little girls twerk to hip hop. Kumano’s Fude Matsuri has always been one of our favorite local festivals. The people are always welcoming and with plenty to keep the eyes

Hiroshima Brush Museum Sakakiyama Shrine Brush Museum Sakakiyama Shrine

Kumano

KUMANO

Kumano Post Office

Kure

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occupied, it is an excellent way to spend the day if in Hiroshima on September 23. The night before the festival a preopening event is held at which kagura performances can be seen. Kumano is 45 minutes by bus from Hiroshima Bus Center and 35 minutes from Kure JR Station. Take a bus bound for Kumano-hagiwara. If you miss the festival, but want to find out more about the brushes made in Kumano, the Fudenosato Kobo Brush Museum in the town center is open every day except Mondays. admission ¥600 for adults and ¥250 for Under 18s.

Toorigyosairei

Tsuruhane Shrine

Toshogu Shrine

Hello Work

Tetsudo Hosp. You Me Mart

Outward journey (from Toshogu Shrine at 11am) Return journey (from Nigitsuu Shrine at 12am)

Station West elevated bridge

Nigitsuu Shrine

N Myojoin Temple

Grand Via Hotel

Hiroshima Station

10/10

The Toorigyosairei [通り御祭礼] parade was first held in 1666 on the 50th anniversary of the death of Tokugawa Ieyasu, who is credited with unifying Japan’s warring states and was the first of Tokugawa shoguns who presided over the 250 year Edo period. According to historical records, hundreds of thousands of people lined the approximately 4km route between Hirose and Toshogu Shrines to view the spectacle of 2000 people, carts, palanquins and a giant portable mikoshi shrine making its way through the castle town. The parade took place every 50 years on 3 more occasions, but has not been held since 1815. This year, the tradition is to be revived and the parade will be held once again on October 10 in commemoration of the 400th anniversary of Ieyasu’s death.

Kubota, priest at Toshogu is hoping that it will be able to negotiate the low-hanging electricity wires that their predecessors didn’t have to contend with.

Even the spirit of the great shogun has to comply with police regulations, so the out and back parade route has been shortened to approximately 1km between Toshogu and Nigitsu shrines. Organizers are, however, going to great lengths to replicate the processions of old in as close detail as possible. Period costumes for around 500 soldiers, samurai, feudal lords, magistrates, children playing kabuki, musicians and kirin lion dancers are being designed by referring to prints dating from 1764 and 1815. A large hana-guruma carriage has been reconstructed, upon which will sit a large woven basket containing an elaborately crafted artificial floral display which will stand some 2m tall - Shunji

When I mention that I’ll be sure to be at the parade as it’s unlikely I’ll be around in 2065, Kubota smiles and says, “Well, it’s been such an effort to resurrect the parade, it seems a shame to wait until almost everyone has forgotten about it again. We’re hoping that if this year’s festival is a success, we’ll get approval to hold the parade every 5 or 10 years. We’d like to to become one of Hiroshima’s big regular events, like the Flower Festival.”

The main guest is the 800kg mikoshi portable shrine which will require around 60 people to carry it along the route and up and down the steep slope to and from Toshogu Shrine. Although the surrounding shrine was completely destroyed, the mikoshi miraculously survived the A-bombing intact. It is, says Kubota, in this 70th year after the A-bombing, an appropriate symbol that connects Hiroshima’s long pre-bombing history with the resilience of its people evident in the city’s recovery.

The parade will make it’s way between Toushougu Shrine and Niigitsu Shrine 11:00-11:40 and the return journey will be between 12:30 and 14:00. GetHiroshima / Autumn 2015

/09

TANOMO-SAN / 8/25 MIYAJIMA / 18:00-21:00

photo © Hatsukaichi Tourism Division

A little-known, but delightfully colorful festival on Miyajima. Itsukushima gets all the press, but Shinomiya Shrine in Momiji-dani (Maple Valley), with its moss covered stone torii gates and steps, is absolutely gorgeous. It is here that, at around 6pm, local islanders bring little handcrafted Tanomo boats, complete with passengers - little dolls fashioned from sweets - to be purified. These miniature boats are then set afloat on the sea and towards the shore opposite a couple of hours later. Miyajima’s sacred status meant that agriculture on the island has traditionally been forbidden as was the worship of the rice god Inari. Tanomo-san was a way of making offerings to Inari on the shore opposite Itsukushima Shrine.

SHIRAKAMI-SAN / 10/28-29 PEACE BLVD / 18:00-21:00 Shirakami Shrine, located right downtown next to the ANA Crowne Plaza Hotel on Peace Boulevard (map p.26 [B-3]) at a busy intersection, is one of the city’s oldest shrines. It is thought that the white paper referred to in its name was used to alert boats of the outcrop of rocks that stood where the shrine is today before land reclamation work began to extend the city southwards. The shrine’s annual autumn festival is held on the nights of October 28 and 29. The shrine buzzes with activity as locals and people on their way home from work drop in to pay their respects. The street is lined with festival stalls and the Sakabara Kagura Troupe perform on a makeshift stage.

EBISU-KOU / 11/18-20 HIROSHIMA / 18:00-21:00 Commonly known as Ebisu-kou or Ebessan, the Ebisu Taisai 胡子大祭 dates back around 400 years. The chubby, fish-bearing and ever smiling Ebisu is the god of good fortune, and, understandably, is very popular. People cast cash offerings into a huge barrel that sits in front of Ebisu Shrine. Thousands line up to pay their respects at the shrine and have brightly decorated komazarae rakes, sold from stalls nearby, blessed so they can work their magic and rake in profit over the coming year. There are all the usual festival stalls selling food, drinks and enticing kids with colorful games. The main Chuo-dori St is closed to traffic one night and kagura performances are held on an open-air stage.

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Grand Inoko Festival

A 1.5 ton rock suspended by 88 ropes held by 88 bamboo canes that circle a city center park is the focal point of the The Grand Inoko Festival (Oo-inoko-matsuri), a community run festival that blends tradition with contemporary art and includes a touch of matsuri madness. Inoko, are young boar, around Hiroshima, on the day of the boar children go around their neighborhoods calling out wishes for health and prosperity, chanting the words, “Inoko, inoko, inoko mochi tsuite, hanjose, hanjose!” while bouncing a decorated weight on the ground in front of each house. The Grand Inoko Festival takes this community element and brings it to the city center, where people from all neighborhoods can come together.

11/7 & 8 Fukuromachi Park

immovable rock finally leaves the ground is quite thrilling. As the sun goes down, the installation is illuminated to great effect and contemporary music and dance performances which draw heavily on traditional art forms begin. Food and drinks are available from various stalls, and the very reasonably priced local take-zake sake served in bamboo cups helps loosen everyone up for the opportunity to “ride the rock” while the crowd wishes you health and prosperity.

Day one usually involves live stage performances, but the main event is on Sunday. After kids make the rounds of neighboring streets in the morning, the work of attaching the 88 ropes to the rock and hoisting it off the ground begins around 3pm. Everyone is welcome to join in the work, and the moment when, after much effort, the seemingly

Shobara IC Miyoshi IC Ha

BIHOKU HILLSIDE PARK

Takata IC

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Chiyoda JCT

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HIROSHIMA PREFECTURE

Hiroshima Kita JCT Hiroshima Kita IC

Free entry

Over 65s free

BIHOKU HILLSIDE PARK

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Free parking on free entry days and for Year Pass holders. *Only applicable to vehicles with seniors 9/21

Bihoku Park Office: 4-10 Mikkaichi-cho Shobara City, Hiroshima Pref. 727-0021 Tel: 0824-72-7000 http://www.bihoku-park.go.jp

Sanyo Main Line

Sany

Hiroshima Airport

Hiroshima JCT 2

Hiroshima

Access: 90 min from Hiroshima to Chugoku Expressway Shobara IC then 5 min to Park North 2015 2 Entrance or 10 min to Park Central Entrance. Kure Line

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|| 9/11-13 Miyajima Mantoe Candle Festival, Daishoin Temple, Miyajima 18:00-21:00 || 9/13 Tanomo-san, Miyajima (Page 10) || 9/20 Isonomiya-hachiman-jinja Shrine Festival Parade, Takehara 12:00-16:30 || 9/21 Respect the aged tea ceremony & concert, Shukkeien Garden 10:00-13:00 || 9/23 Kumano Fude Brush Festival (Page 8) || 9/23 Koto performance, Shukkeien Garden 13:00-16:00 || 9/26 Sankeien Garden Moon Viewing, Next to Hiroshima Airport, Mihara 18:15-20:40 || 9/26 Hiroshima Kagura Day, Yale Yale basement event space in front of Hiroshima Station Shows at 13:30-15:00, 17:00-18:00 || 9/27 Moon Viewing Tea Ceremony, Shukkeien Garden 16:00-19:30 || 9/27 Shukkeien Moon Concert, Shukkeien 18:30~ || 9/27 Hiroshima Kagura Day, Yale Yale basement event space in front of Hiroshima Station Shows at 11:00-12:30, 14:30-16:00 || 10/10 Toorigyosairei Parade, Toushougu Shrine (See page 9) || 10/10 Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kagura & Shishimai Lion Dance, Toushougu Shrine 11:30-13:30 || 10/10-11 Saijo Sake Matsuri, Saijo, Higashi-hiroshima (Page 18) || 10/11 Onomichi Akari Candle Festival, Onomichi temples, Onomichi 18:00-21:00 || 10/15 Kikka-sai Chrysanthemum Festival, bugaku court dance & music, Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima 17:00 || 10/17-10/18 Hiroshima Food Festival || 10/18 Traditional music concert, Shukkeien Garden 10:00, 14:00 ÂĽ2000, 12:30 free || 10/18 Korean Envoy parade reenactment, Sannose, Shimo-kamagari Island, Kure 10:45-15:00 || 10/24 (18:00~) 10/25 (10:00~) Ogashira Jinja Shrine, Ono-cho, Hatsukaichi (Taiko & kagura from 18:00 on 10/24) || 10/24-11/8 Chrysanthemum display, Hiroshima Castle || 10/25 Sekishu Ryu Tea Ceremony, Shukkei-en Garden 09:00-14:00 || 10/28-29 Shirakami-san (Page 10), Shirakami-san Shrine, Peace Boulevard || 10/31-11/1 Takehara Bamboo Candle Festival, Honmachi, Takehara 17:00-21:00 || 11/1 (18:00~) 11/2 (11:00) 11/3 (07:30-18:30) Betcha Matsuri, Ikkuya-jinja Shrine, Onomichi || 11/3 13:00 Daiganji Firewalking Festiva, Daigan-ji Temple, Miyajima 13:00 || 11/1-11/15 Chrysanthemum display, Shukkeien Garden || 11/3 Chrysanthemum viewing tea ceremony, Shukkei-en Garden || 11/7-11/8 Grand Inoko Festival, Fukuromachi Park, Hiroshima (Page 11) || 11/8 Maple viewing tea ceremony, Shukkei-en Garden || 11/15 Daishoin Firewalking Ritual, Daishoin Temple, Miyajima 11:00 || 11/18-11/20 Ebisukou, Ebisu Shrine, Chuo-dori St, Hiroshima (Page 10) Find more about these events and more at www.gethiroshima.com/events

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1. Daiganji Firewalking Festival, 2. Saijo Sake Matusuri, 3. Takehara Bamboo Candles, 4. Onomichi Betcha Festival

kagura spectacular folk theater for the masses

A giant, multicolored, eight-headed serpent writhes back and forth across the stage, attacking and entwining a sword-wielding hero. Engulfed in smoke, sparks spitting from its multiple jaws, the beast bites, spins and leaps, occasionally snapping at young children brave enough to come to the front of the stage. The hero, of course, eventually triumphs, severing each of the heads in turn, to the delight of the audience.

This is the thrilling conclusion to Yamata-noorochi, a crowd-pleasing tale from Japanese mythology, often performed as the finale at kagura festivals and competitions. Kagura is diverse art form with a variety of performance styles. That performed in northern Hiroshima and Iwami in Shimane is characterized by energetic dances performed in elaborate (and heavy) costumes, accompanied by stirring

rhythms. While you may not understand the dialogue, the exciting fight scenes, lots of dry ice, fireworks and lightning-fast costume changes keep the uninitiated entertained. In Hiroshima city, kagura is most often seen at autumn shrine festivals. Every Wednesday, however, troupes come in from the countryside to perform at Kenmin Bunka Center near the A-bomb Dome. Non-Japanese readers are provided with basic English outlines of the two pieces to be performed. There’s also an opportunity to check out the masks and costumes up close and get some souvenir snaps after the show. Mention “GetHiroshima” and get a ¥100 discount and get in for ¥900. Those who would like to delve deeper into the world of kagura should make a trip out to Monzenmura Kagura Village in Midorii in Akitakata. Here, around 20 troupes take turns in performing in the “Kagura Dome” and the facility also has restaurants, shops, a hot spring and accommodation.

Hiroshima Kagura in the City Center

10/7 prog. 1: Tsuchi-gumo / prog. 2: Yamata-no-orochi 10/14 prog. 1: Ichijyo-modori-bashi / prog. 2: Takiyasha-hime

Two Performances Every Wednesday until December 23 at

∼Hiroshima Prefectural Citizen’s Culture Center∼ (Rijo Kaikan Kenmin Bunka Center) p.23 [B-1/2]

10/21 prog. 1: Iwato / prog. 2: Jinrin 10/28 Performance suspended 11/4 prog. 1: Takiyasha-hime / prog. 2: Tsuchi-gumo 11/11 prog. 1: Shoki / prog. 2: Ohe-yama 11/18 prog. 1: Jinrin / prog. 2: Yamata-no-orochi

Admission: ¥1,000 (All seating is unassigned)

11/25 prog. 1: Ibaraki / prog. 2: Takiyasha-hime

Tickets sold on day of performance: from 17:00

12/2 prog. 1: Rasho-mon / prog. 2: Yamata-no-orochi

Doors open: 18:00

12/9 prog. 1: Anchin-kiyo-hime / prog. 2: Takiyasha-hime

First performance: 19:00

Photo session with players and costumes on stage after the show from 20:40

Intermission: 19:40-20:00 Second performance: 20:00

12/16 prog. 1: Yamato-takeru-no-mikoto / prog. 2: Takiyasha-hime

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2015

12/23 prog. 1: Jinrin / prog. 2: Tsuchi-gumo

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Get more out of Hiroshima’s main shopping street with this guide compiled by International Tourism & Business students from Yasuda Women’s University.

hondori shop

1- NAGATAYA

2- COUNTRY CAT

Retro, clean okonomiyaki shop. English menu, vegetarian dishes, take-out available. Mon & Wed-Fri 11:00~21:00 Sat: 10:30~21:30 Sun & hols: 11:00~21:00 Closed Tuesdays, 4th Wednesday of the month

Cute “country goods” like stuffed animals, stationary, character goods. 10:30-19:00 Closed Wednesdays

3- KUMANO BRUSH CENTER World class calligraphy, art & make-up brushes, made locally in Kumano 10:00-19:00

Rijo-dori

SUNMALL

A-bomb Dome Zucchini

ELK Cafe

4 6 5

Hondori Station

7- ANDERSEN Hiroshima’s favorite bakery is named after Denmark’s most famous son and serves as the Danish consulate! European style bakery, café & chocolaterie. High quality food-court upstairs. 1F 10:00~20:00 2F 11:00~21:30 (L.O. 21:00)

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8- MIYABI KIMONO SHOP Purveyor of kimono and accessories since 1957. Information in English too 10:00-19:00

9- MABUI HIROSHIMA OYSTER BAR Some of Hiroshima’s freshest oysters, both local and from around the world. English menu also includes Italian dishes. 16:00-01:00 (LO 24:00)

pping street 4- TAKUMI

5- CHA-NO-WA

Traditional crafts, charms, fans and other seasonal items from around Japan. SUNMALL 5F - 10:30-20:00

Matcha green tea drinks and sweets. The “chafe” is on the 2nd floor above the shop. Try the Green Tea Affogado (pictured). 1F 10:30-19:30 2F 12:00-19:00 (L0 18:30) Closed 3rd Wednesday of the month

6- TOYOMARU SUISAN SEAFOOD IZAKAYA Oysters are their speciality but they also serve meat, sashimi, salads, hama-yaki (baked shellfish, squid...), & desserts. Sunken horigotasu tables - Japanese style without the knee pain! Sun-Thu 16:00-01:00 Fri, Sat, hols 16:00-03:00

Himalaya Kitchen

Chuo-dori

12 10 Hondori Street

The Shack Bar and Grill

11 Namiki-dori

9 10- TAITO STATION GAME ARCADE 1F: UFO catchers 2F: Active video games 3F: Medal (token) games 6F: Purikura photo booths & cosplay 10:00-24:00

11- JUMP SHOP All kinds of stuff featuring your favorite characters from the world’s most popular manga, “Shukan Shonen JUMP” including ONE PIECE, Naruto and Bleach. Take a photo with Dragonball Z’s Son Gokuu. 10:00-19:00

12- TAGASHIRA HONPO Relaxing tea shop with many kinds of hoji-cha and matcha and sweets. Take-out OK 10:30-21:00

Illustrations: Seira Yoshimoto

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2015

/15

SHOPPING

hiroshima street fashion: fall collection

Words / Photos: Charlie Rose http://charlieroselovelove.com/

Japan is famous for its great style and forward sense of fashion and Hiroshima is no exception. Hiroshima boasts small local boutiques and used apparel outlets, as well as high-end brand shops. In this issue, I take it to the streets to show just how fashionable the average Joe and Jane can be, right here in lovely Hiroshima.

Name: Charles / Age: 28 / Country: United States Fashion Style: Casual Favorite Apparel Item: Orange Shoes / Purchased at: GU Other Items: Shirt: Kiranosuke / Pants: Uniqlo / Glasses: Uniqlo / Watch: Gift from the Adidas store

Name: Lorena Acosta / Age: 24 / Country: Paraguay Fashion Style: Classic & Chic Favorite Apparel Item: Leather Jacket / Purchased at: Index Other Items: Pants and Shoes: ZARA / Blouse: Comme ca ism / Accessories: Gifts from mamma and papa / Watch: Citizen / Belt: Gap

Name: Soushi / Age: 14 / Country: Hiroshima, Japan Fashion Style: Casual & Classic Favorite Apparel Item: Bowler Hat / Purchased at: Kuranosuke Other Items: Shirt: Kuranosuke / Vest: Kuranosuke / Pants: Dan / Shoes: Shoe’s Island

Name: Maho / Age: 27 / Country: Hiroshima, Japan Fashion Style: Casual Favorite Apparel Item: Brown Strap Watch / Purchased at: MARC BY JACOBS Other Items: Sweatshirt: GU / Overalls: 31 sons de mode / High Heels: Outlet Shoes / Rings: Snow

HIDDEN FASHION TREASURES OF HIROSHIMA Although less than a year old, this small, one-room, local production shop is making waves. With it’s highend boutique, yet down-to-earth, “feeling your roots” vibe, Eden is stocked to the brim in a ‘more than you could ever imagine could fit into one room’ way. It is packed with trendy, alternative clothing, jewelry, shoes, hats and art. The proud owner and designer of this funky little shop is Tomoyuki Kawada. He has a license in interior design and coordination and is an incredibly friendly and happy man. Feel free to stop by and check out this adorable shop in Tokaichi, just moments away from the Tenma River. Eden: 1F, 6-20 Nishi Tokaichi machi, Naka-ku Tel: 082-295-7654 map C p.23 [A-1] 1

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SUP city

Ryuji Nishikawa has a vision. A vision in which the six rivers that run through the city of Hiroshima become, once again, central to the lives of its people. Important in the development of the castle town, these waterways were also a playground. Kids used to swim in Hiroshima’s rivers and pleasure boats once plied the waters in front of the Industrial Trade Hall before it was transformed into the ruin now known as the A-bomb Dome.

Hiroshima is perfectly suited to SUP. We not only have the rivers, but 300 or so remaining stone gangi steps provide easy river entry and exit access. Nishikawa sees Hiroshima’s “SUP City” potential as something unique in Japan. It’s also relatively easy to pick up, and makes for great exercise. Having to balance on the board means you have to engage just about every muscle in your body, and it can burn around the same amount of calories as running, but without the impact.

Nishikawa talks of black and white photos of smiling kids leaping into the water from high, rickety wooden platforms. Although Hiroshima has recovered, he says, in some respects there hasn’t been a complete restoration. A return to the rivers would be one indicator, he thinks, of such a restoration. Nishikawa has been running surf safaris from his little shop ‘Magic Island’ since 1992. Also a fan of snowboarding, as well as, wind and kite surfing it was inevitable that he would try his hand at Stand-Up-Paddle (SUP) after it started to appear in surf mags.

Nishikawa was so taken with the sport’s potential that he recently relocated his Magic Island base to Kusunoki-cho for ease of river access. Magic Island’s City SUP tours start with a brief explanation and warm-up, then head downstream to the A-bomb Dome and Peace Memorial Park. On returning to Magic Island, participants can get a shower and change clothes. For more experienced SUP-ers, Hiroshima’s network of waterways offer kilometers of urban paddling. Some also make the round-trip journey from the city center to Miyajima. It’s a good distance, but if you catch the tide right, it’s a lot easier a paddle than you might think. Nishikawa prefers that prospective SUP-ers

take a couple of his shorter city tours (during which he can explain local river traffic etiquette, for safety as well as to avoid getting shouted at) before sending them off on solo adventures. Next year, Nishikawa plans to hold an international SUP race here in Hiroshima. The idea conjures up images of a Monte Carlo style circuit, with supporters lining the riversides and cheering from windows of the apartment buildings that overlook them, all without the kind of traffic headaches that come with a run or cycle event. SUP offers visitors a unique vantage point from which to view the city. To residents it’s a way to get the most out of its particular geography and reconnect with its historic lifelines. Most of all, it’s great fun. So, why not get SUPing? Magic Island 1-15-4 Kusunoki-cho, Nishi-ku, Hiroshima-shi 〒733-0002 Map reference / Map p.20 [B/C-2] 082-234-1144 www.magicislandsurf.com www.facebook.com/MAGICISLANDSURF

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2015

/17

the sake town saijo

SPONSORED ARTICLE

Step back in time in Saijo’s sake district. Only 35 minutes by train from JR Hiroshima station, a day trip to Saijo in Higashihiroshima City is perfect for both the connoisseur and novice looking to learn more about this most Japanese of drinks.

Saijo produces some of Japan’s finest sake and much of it comes from the breweries clustered along “Saijo Sakagura-dori Street”, a short walk from Saijo JR station. Distinctive latticed walls guide you past red brick chimneys displaying the names of local brewers. Large sugidama cedar balls hang in front purveyors of quality sake.

Maekake apron

Trying premium sake for the first time is a revelation. It has a variety that rivals wine, and is just as drinkable. The sake world is, however, very down to earth and the best way to negotiate it is to taste, taste, taste. Sampling the different kinds of sake in the breweries is a highlight of a trip to Saijo and several breweries offer free samples on any given day.

Bishu-nabe

Looking for a souvenir? The sake enjoyed by President Obama on his Japan visit last year with its floating petals made of gold leaf hails from Saijo. Or, opt for one of many small batch boutique sake varieties that rarely make it out of Japan, and command high prices if they do. Maekake brewery aprons, with their striking designs make for a less fragile souvenir.

seasoned with sake. Originally enjoyed by sake brewers, it is a hearty, warming meal. If you need a break to clear your head, there are several nice cafes in the Sakagura-dori area where you can enjoy tea or coffee, accompanied by sweets, cakes and snacks, many of which are made with sake or sake by-products.

SAKE MATSURI 2015 (OCTOBER 10-11) Saijo celebrates its sake brewing heritage every October. More than 200,000 people come to watch the parades, tour the breweries, browse the stalls and sample around 1,000 varieties of sake in the “Sake Hiroba”.

Meals in Saijo’s eateries, start, of course, with a sake kampai. A local culinary speciality is bishunabe, a meat and vegetable hot pot, liberally

Access from JR Hiroshima station and from Hiroshima Airport

Hiroshima Free Wi-Fi now in Saijo

Higashihiroshima City

Hiroshima Miyajima -guchi Miyajima

HIROSHIMA AIRPORT



Saijo

Mihara

A-bomb dome Kure

From Hiroshima City (JR Hiroshima station) to Saijo in Higashihiroshima City, 35 minutes by JR train (Sanyo Line) From Hiroshima Airport to Saijo, 15 minutes by bus to JR Shiraichi station + 10 minutes by train from JR Shiraichi station.

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Get online for free at Higashihiroshima City Tourist Information Center (JR Saijo station 2F) and at Saijo Sakagura-dori Tourist Information Center (on Sakagura-dori street). Get tourism and dining information from the free “Adventure Travel on the Wi-Fi” app.

KeMBY˙s I N T E R N A T I O N A L

Tapas, Bar & Restaurant FREE

17:30-00:30 Sunday-Thursday 17:30-01:00 Friday-Saturday

Naka-ku, Otemachi 2-9-13 082-249-6201 map C p.23 [B-2] 8

facebook.com/kembyshiroshima twitter.com/KembysHiroshima Hiroshima Restaurants > KeMBY’s OK!

Happy Hou!!r 17:30-19:30 All alcohol

¥ 2 0 0 OF F

Good food, Good people, Good atmosphere Looking for high quality food in a casual atmosphere? Kemby’s has all the bases covered with a great selection of tapas, pasta and Tex Mex, as well as gourmet sausages, seafood and their famous burgers. Owner Prakash prides himself on his excellent wine selection, and is happy to help you make the right choice. Whether you are in the mood for a meal, you want to shoot some pool, or just shoot the breeze with the bilingual staff and friendly regulars, great nights start at Kemby’s.

h im a laya ki tch e n www.facebook.com/himalayakitchen

Authentic Nepalese and Indian curries and homestyle cuisine. Served in beautiful Okinawan ceramic dishes. Only the freshest vegetables, sourced from within Japan. Vegetarians catered for.

l u n ch m e nu • Daily special curry • Spicy chicken curry • Butter chicken curry • Spinach curry • Vegetable curry

¥650~¥1000 • Keema curry • Lamb curry • Nepalese dishes • Steamed stuffed "momo" dumplings

Curry comes with salad and rice or nan bread

Lunch: 11:30-15:00 / Dinner: 18:00-23:30

4 craft beers on tap / 80 international bottled beers Appetizers, salads, curries, tandoori and grilled dishes.

l u n ch d r i n k s Soft drinks from ¥150 Asahi Super Dry beer ¥300 Japanese craft beer ¥600

Show thi s a d and ge t a free la ss i Take out also available.

082-249-0630 / 5-15-2F Horikawa-cho, Naka-ku Map B p.22

City map

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F GetHiroshima / Autumn 2015

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10 Himalaya Kitchen

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TANAKAMACHI

Enkobashi-cho

INARIMACHI

Southern Cross YAYOICHO 15

HIGA

KAWACHO

ATAGOMAC

MATSUBARACHO

ash nkob

YAGENBORI Tate-machi

ENKOBASHICHO Hana Hostel

Inari-machi

n-do

KANAYAMACHO

CHI

Hiroshima Bank

TENCHI

Hiroshima Station

Fukuya

Kyobashi

WAKAKUSACHO

kog

uda

Hiroshima Bank

Momiji Bank

Buts

H H Kanayama-cho

Mitsukoshi abi

RIKAWACHO

KYOBASHICHO

HASHIMOTOCHO HASHIMOTOCHO PARK

EBISUCHO

Ebisu-cho

-d

Kam iy bas anagi hi

Memorial Cathedral for World Peace

NOBORICHO PARK

Hotel Flex

NOBORICHO Hatchobori

JR HIROSHIMA STATION

-d

TEPPOCHO

OSUGACHO

TOBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

SHINKANSEN

ri hima -do

Haku s

Saka

H Noboricho Primary School

ashi

Jogakuin High School

Noboricho Junior High School

KAMI NOBORICHO PARK

a-do

Hiroshima Bank

Ek o- ima ha e sh i

Jogakuin Junior High School

kuin-mae

kakuji mple

Shukkeien-mae

station area

Ekim

-d

KAMIOSUGACHO

SHUKKEIEN GARDEN

B HANOVER PARK

FORMER BASEBALL STADIUM SITE

Tennis courts

NAKAMACHI

/ Pe a

Legal Administration Office

YMCA

n-do

Jona

Prefectural Office East Office

Enryuji Temple (Tokasan)

oro

er-d

met

Jogakuin-mae

Chokakuji Temple

Jogakuin High School

Shukkeien-mae

Jogakuin Junior High School

Noboricho Junior High School

KAMI NOBORICHO PARK

KAMINOBORICHO

ebas

Saka

TOBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

or i

OSUGACHO

Hijiyamashita

Fukuya

Hirosh Ban

Mato

MATOBACH

-d

Jo ho ku

MATSUGAWA PARK

Inari-machi

KYOBASHICHO

Kam iy bas anagi hi

Kyobashi

shi

Inarioha

INARIMACHI

i i sh sh ga ba Hi ima sh ro

H Yanagibashi

iba

shigaw

Hijiyamabashi

rum

Kyoba

shi

Ts u

HIGASHIHIRATSUKACHO

NISHIHIRATSUKACHO

Hiroshima Bank

H H Kanayama-cho

HASHIMOTOCHO PARK

HASHIMOTOCHO

Noboricho Primary School Memorial Cathedral for World Peace

YAYOICHO

KANAYAMACHO

NOBORICHO

TEPPOCHO

ma ba

HIRATSUKA PARK

Hij iya

Takeya Primary School

TSURUMICHO

TANAKAMACHI

i or -d

Fuji Grand Shopping Center

MIKAWACHO NAGAREKAWACHO

aku

FUJIMICHO

d/ Hy

ce B lv

im Ek

TAKARAMACHI

Momiji Bank

NOBORICHO PARK

Ebisu-cho

Hatchobori

Mitsukoshi Labi

dori

sha-

Den

Tokyu 15 Hands

HATCHOBORI

EBISUCHO HORIKAWACHO

-dor i

bisu

Fukuya

i-do ri /

Aio

Tate-machi

de)

arca

Momiji Bank

KYUGUCHIMON PARK Chuo Police Station

red

TATEMACHI

Hiroshima Municipal Hospital

Kencho-mae Prefectural Office (Kencho)

Kamiya-cho Higashi

1 2

i (co ve

HONDORI

KAMIYACHO 1

Hiroshima Bank

Bus 1 Center (3F)

SOGO

Cinematographic and Audio-visual Library

Sun Mall Sumitomo Mitsui Bank

Mitsubishi Tokyo Hondo 3 r UFJ Bank 4F

Mizuho Bank

Kamiya-cho Nishi Rijo

Crystal

dori

a-o-

Heiw

10 Plaza

1 Dormy inn

KOMACHI

Buts PARCO Hiroshima uda n-do Information ri Former ALICE SHINTENCHI Plaza 9 4 Bank of FUKUROMACHI GARDEN Japan Don Fukuromachi FUKUROMACHI Fukuro-machi YAGENBORI Quijotte SHINTENCHI Primary PARK PARK School H Shirakami Shrine

Chuden-mae

Reino Inn Peace Park

Hondori

35 5 Kaikan 19 OTEMACHI 1 13

OTEMACHI 22 PARK 1

u oyas Mot shi ba

Genbaku Dome-mae Hiroshima Naka Post Office

Outdoor 2 Family Pool Open July-August

Aioib ashi

PEACE PARK

a-oh ashi

Heiw

Kokutaiji High School

ash

PARK

TOKAICHIMACHI

HONKAWACHO

Honkawa-cho

Tsuchiya Hospital

OTEMACHI

SEIBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

OTEMACHI PARK 2

Hiroshima Chuo Post Office Naka Ward Office

Kokutaiji Junior High School

wab

HIROSEMACHI

Tokaichi-machi

20 33

Honkawa Primary School

Ho nk bas awa hi

HONKAWA PARK

HONKAWACHO

DOBASHICHO

NAKAJIMACHO

4 Iwaka Ryokan

Bunka Koryu Kaikan

Aster Plaza

KAKOMACHI

Shiyakusho mae

KOKUTAIJI PARK

Hei

J-Hoppers

NEKOYACHO

Ichiriki

NISHITOKAICHIMACHI

ENOMACHI

1 PARK

SAKAIMACHI Koami-cho Dobashi

KOAMICHO

2 KAWARAMACHI

Na Kan kajima zakib ash i

Funairi-machi

Kozaki Primary School Nakajima Primary School

Otemachi Commercial High School

Hiroshima City Hall

TAKEYACHO

Shin-sum iyoshi bashi

HIGASHI SENDA PARK

/23

a-do shim Haku ori

a) Ta Shopkanobas hi ping Stre et

Takanobashi

Naga

o- ima GetHiroshima / Autumn 2015 ha e

Chuo

wa-d

reka

nbor Yage

ori

iki-d Nam

ori

ae-d

Ekim

dori

i-dor mach Tera

shiba shi

hi ibas Meij

dori

jiy

i-dor

KAMISHINONOMECHO

SAKI

Jizo-

Sky Walk Escalator

HIJIYAMA

-dori

NBARAHINODE

UNAIRIMACHI

3 Sum iyo

-do Ozu

AMIKANIYA

awa

Geibi Line

Rijo-

COSTCO

MAZDA ZOOM ZOOM STADIUM

yasug

Ky a( aw

nk Ho

tag

nsen

ONAGAHIGASHI ONAGANISHI

u-o

Shinka

Sanyo

ri do o-

ASHIKANIYACHO

on eb Ak

CHI

Onaga Primary School

Moto

Lin ain oM ny Sa

city center

onmachi

Junior High School

List of places CULTURE

SHOPPING 1

IACE Travel - Map C [B-1]

Nagataya Okonomiyaki - Map C [B-1]

Outsider Book Nook / Global Lounge - Map C [C-1]

Organ-za - Map C [A-1]

Pokemon Center - Map C [B-1]

A-Bomb Dome - Map C [B-1]

Otis! - Map C [A-2]

Travel With - Map B

Children’s museum - Map C [A-2]

Pasta La Vista - Map C [B-2]

Yamatoya - Map B

Cinetwin Hondori - Map B

Plus Minus - Map B

Former Bank of Japan - Map C [B-2]

Porta Porte - Map B

Gallery G - Map A

Robatayaki Jindaiko - Map B

Hatchoza Cinema - Map B

Rojiura Teppan Kotaro - Map C [C-3]

Cleo Hair International - Map C [B-1]

Hiroshima City International House - Map A

Saishoku Kenbi - p.20 [A-1]

Family Pool - Map C [B-1] (Open July - August)

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art Map C [D-3]

Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki - Map A

Green Arena Gym & Pool - Map C [B-1]

Hiroshima City Tourist Information - Map C [B-2]

Shabuzen - Map B

Higashi-ku Sports Center (Big Wave) - Map p.21 [D-1]

Hiroshima International Center - Map C [B-2]

Siete - Map A, Map C [C-1]

Laff Hair Design - Map C [B-1]

Hiroshima Museum of Art - Map C [B-1]

Sprout - Map C [A-1]

Magic Island - Map p.20 [B/C-2]

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum - Map C [B-2]

Tinto - Map C [B-2]

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum - Map A

Tokaichi Apartment - Map C [A-1]

International Exchange Lounge - Map C [A-2]

Warung Matahari - Map C [B-3]

Salon Cinema 1/2 - Map C [B-3]

Zucchini: bar and cucina - Map C [B-1]

Global Lounge - Map C [C-1]

Shimizu Gekijo - Map A

Popeye Media Cafe Ebisu-dori - Map B

Shukkeien Garden - Map A

Popeye Media Cafe Hondori - Map C [C-1]

HE ALTH & BE AUT Y

INTERNE T

NIGHTLIFE FASHION SHOPPING ACCOMMODATION

Barcos - Map B

Bar Edge - Map B

Eden - Map C [A-1]

Dormy Inn - Map C [B-2]

Bon Voyage - Map B

Hana Hostel - Map A

Cafe Spice - Map B

Hotel Flex - Map A

Chinatown - Map B

Ikawa Ryokan - Map C [A-2]

Centre Point - Map B

J-Hoppers Hiroshima - Map C [A-2]

Ekimae Chelsea Drinks - Map A

Reino Inn Peace Park Hiroshima - Map C [B-2]

Kemby’s - Map C [B-2]

Washington Hotel - Map B

Koba - Map B

• Police 110

La Luna - Map B

• Fire and Ambulance 119

Mac - Map B

• 24 Hour Hiroshima Hospital Information in English Freedial

Mambos - Map B

0120-169912

Molly Malone’s - Map B

• 24h Emergency pediatric hospital (Funairi Byoin)

RESTAUR ANT & CAFES

EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS

Artcafe ELK - Map C [B-1]

New King - Map B

082-232-6195

Bakudan-ya Honten - Map C [C-3]

Southern Cross - Map B

• Multilingual Interpreting Service (Trio-phone)

Cafe Cinnamon - Map C [A-2]

The Shack Bar and Grill - Map B

082-247-9715

Caffe Ponte - Map C [B-1]

Tropical Bar Revolución - Map B

09:00-19:00 (April-September)

Chamonix Mont Blanc - Map B

09:00-18:00 (October-March)

Choi Choi Ya - Map B

• TELL English counseling service 03-5774-0992

Cusco Cafe - Map C [C-1]

(09:00-23:00)

Galley - Map B

• Resident Consultation & Interpreting Service

Graffity Mexican Diner - Map C [C-2]

082-241-5010

Himalaya Kitchen

• Immigration Information Center 0570-013-904

J-Cafe & Bar Motel - Map C [C-3]

• Human Rights Counseling Center for Foreign Citizens

Kanak - Map C [B-2]

082-228-5792

Kanawa (Open end of September) - Map C [B-2]

Kanawa ASSE - Map A

Kanawa Kaki Meian - Map A

Karşiyaka - Map C [B-2]

Mabui Hiroshima Oyster Bar - Map C [C-2]

Mokuren Okonomiyaki & Teppanyaki - Map A

24\

Map A: p.22 Map B: p. 22 Map C: p.23

Media Cafe Popeye Hondori / Ebisu-dori So much more than Internet in 2 city centre locations Internet access (PC), Free soft drinks, Shower rooms available (additional charge), Overnight stay OK Open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week Popeye Ebisu-dori map B p.28 Popeye Hondori map C p.29 [C-1] 3

kanak Delicious, healthy, additive-free Indian food right next to Peace Park. Excellent lunch sets. Indian pub-style atmosphere at night with many a la carte dishes to choose from as well as curry meals. Curry lunch sets from 짜780 Free refills of rice/nan at lunch Vegetarian, vegan and Halal food. A la carte Kids sets 짜500 ~짜590 (ex tax) Party room available

Lunch 11:00-15:00 (L.O. 14:30) Dinner 17:00-22:30 (L.O. 22:00) 082-236-7308 Map C p.23 [B-2] 12

Artcafe ELK 2nd floor cafe near Peace Park. Good sandwich lunches, drinks vegetarian menu. Ask about vegan and gluten free dishes and their vegan desserts. International exchange spot. 09:30-21:00 (Until 22:00 Fri & Sat, 18:00 Wed) 082-247-4443 map C p.23 [B-1] 1

Cafe Cinnamon

Cafe Lente

Closed Tues. Charming little blue cafe worth seeking out for great food and drinks. 11:30-15:00, 18:00-22:00 Closed Tuesdays 082- 942-3424 map C p.23 [A-2] 3

Escape the Miyajima crowds at this beautifully designed cafe. Wooden terrace. Great view of the floating torii gate, especially after dark. 11:00-21:00 Closed Tuesdays Located along the water inlet between Kiyomori Shrine & Miyajima Aquarium.

Chamonix Mont Blanc

Choi Choi Ya

Venerable kissaten since 1955, now with a British connection.

08:00-24:00 082-241-2726 map B p.22 5

Shiho serves Hiroshima tsukemen, yaki-ramen (fish stock base), side dishes and drinks in a relaxed atmosphere. Eat, drink or both at the counter or a street-side table. Can get quite lively late at night. 20:30-03:00 Closed Sundays & hols that fall on a weekday map B p.22 6

Galley

Graffity Mexican Diner

3F casual French bistro overlooking Namiki-dori in the center of Hiroshima’s shopping district. Open for lunches, dinner and in between.

Homemade Mexican and US style foods in this family run-diner.

Lunch 12:00-14:00 Cafe 14:00-18:00 Dinner 18:00-24:00 (L.O. 23:30) 082-243-3669 map B p.22 8

11:30-13:20, 18:00-24:00 (L.O. 23:00) 082-243-3669 map C p.23 [C-2] 9

Karşiyaka

MABUI Hiroshima Oyster Bar

Kebabs and authentic Turkish dishes prepared by a Turkish chef near Peace Park. Vegetarian and Halal diners catered for. Belly dance shows at weekends. 11:30-14:30 (L.O. 14:00) 17:30-23:30 (L.O.22:30) 082-247-2202 map C p.23 [B-2] 16

Mokuren Okonomiyaki & Teppanyaki Traditional & creative okonomiyaki on 6F of the Full Focus Bldg in front of Hiroshima Stn. Local oysters & sake. Ice cold draft beer. Left out of the elevator, look for the pink counter on the left near the back. 10:00-23:00 (L.O. 22:30) 082-568-7850 map A p.22 18

Fukuromachi Super fresh oysters from Hiroshima waters and overseas - raw, fried, steamed, smoked and more! Well presented seafood, meat and Italian dishes. 11:30 - 24:00 (L.O 23:00) open everyday 082-249-2490 map C p.23 [C-2] 17

Nagataya Great okonomiyaki and plenty of space to sit, a stone’s throw away from Peace Park. Excellent understanding of vegetarian needs. Mon-Fri 11:00-20:30 (L.O.), Sat 11:00-21:00 (L.O.), Sun, hols 10:30-20:30 082-247-0787 map C p.23 [B-1] 19

Organ-za

Otis!

Bohemian queen, Goto Izumi's avant guard center of operations. Great decor, food, drink and bizarre stage shows.

Eclectic and ethnic music. Tex Mex, vegetarian, vegan and gluten free dishes available.

Tue-Fri 17:30-01:30 (L.O.), Sat 11:30-01:30 (L.O.) Sun 11:30-23:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-295-1553 map C p.23 [A-1] 20

Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30 (L.O.) , Sun, hols 16:00-22:30 (L.O.) 082-249-3885 map C p.23 [A-2] 21

Pasta La Vista

Plus Minus

Stylish eatery near Peace Park which prides itself on its many pasta types & local ingredients. Smoke free at lunch. Vegetarian options.

Top quality yaki-niku on 1 F in retro Japanese surroundings, and stylish, modern lounge bar upstairs. Good range of local sake.

Lunch Mon-Fri 11:00-15:00 (L.O. 14:30) / Sat, Sun, hols 11:00-16:00 (L.O. 15:30) Dinner 17:00-24:00 (L.O 23:30) map C p.23[B-2] 22

17:00-06:00, Bar 19:00-06:00 082-236-8810 map B p.22 23

Porta Porte

Robatayaki Jindaiko

Authentic Napoli style pizzeria with a view of the park out back.

Long running establishment opposite Ebisu Shrine serving grilled meat, fish and vegetables.

11:00-15:00, 17:00-22:00 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-249-8010 map B p.22 24

17:00-23:30 (L.O.) 082-246-4873 map B p.22 25

Rojiura Teppan Kotaro

Saishoku Kenbi

Young grill master Kotaro serves delicious seasonal dishes & drinks just off Peace Blvd.

Completely vegetarian menu (some dishes contain eggs & dairy) 1500m from Nishi Hiroshima Station. Tofu based, hearty daily set lunches and veggie ramen too! 11:00-16:00 (lunch until 14:00, L.O. 15:00) Closed on Tue 082-271-3770 map p.20 [A-1] 27

17:00-02:00 (L.O. 01:30) Closed Tuesdays 082-249-1953 map C p.23 [C-3] 2F 26

Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki

Shabuzen

Affable, soccer-loving okonomiyaki-ist serving Hiroshimaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favorite dish and drinks near Hiroshima Station. 11:30-14:30, 17:00-23:00 Closed Saturdays 082-236-7303 map A p.22 28

Hearty and social, shabu-shabu is healthy, cookit-yourself dining treat for meat lovers. Plates of high quality beef or pork with plenty of veggies, rounded off with noodles. 17:00-23:00 (L.O. 22:00) Open everyday 082-240-1700 map B p.22 29

Siete

Sprout

Pleasant bistro with relaxed ambience. Good selection of wine & beer complements a Mediterranean menu or just drop in for a drink. Families welcome. 11:30-14:00 / 17:30-24:00 Closed Sunday 082-227-3456 map A p.22, map C p.23 [C-1] 30

Delicious extensive menu. 5 min walk from peace park. Pasta, pizza, fish, meat and veggie dishes. 082-294-2019 17:30-1:00(L.O.). Lunch Fri. Sat. Sun. Holiday 11:30-14:00(L.O.) - Closed on Wednesday map C p.23 [A-1] 31

Tinto

Tokaichi Apartment

Mediterranean dining bar open all day, with some great drink deals. Home made pizza.

Quirky smoke free cafe in Tokaichi. ÂĽ850 set lunches served 16:30.

11:30-24:00 Sun-Thurs, 11:30-01:00 Sat, Sun & hols 082-546-0007 map C p.23 [B-2] 32

11:30-23:00 (lunch L.O. 16:30) Closed Tuesdays 082-231-9865 map C p.23 [A-1] 2F 33

Warung Matahari

Zucchini: bar and cucina

Excellent Indonesian cuisine prepared by Balinese chef Surasna. Vegetarians catered for.

Lively, reasonably-priced tapas restaurant-bar next to Peace Park.

17:30-22:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-240-2082 map C p.23 [B-3] 34

11:30-15:00 (L.O 14:00) 17:00-24:00 (23:30 L.O) 082-546-0777 map C p.23 [B-1] 35

Bar Edge

Bon Voyage

Small underground club with a good sound system.

International bar with counter and 2 discount rooms in which to chill. Nice cocktails and some great food too.

082-248-8146 map B p.22 2

Mon-Thur, Sun 18:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00 082-249-2380 map B p.22 3

Cafe Spice

Chinatown

Relaxed SE Asian atmosphere amid the buzz of Nagarekawa

Well worn, but large dance venue in the depths of Nagarekawa, rented out by local promoters for live and club events. Check local listings for events 082-247-5270 map B p.22 5

18:00-03:00 082-246-7934 map B p.22 4

Centre Point

Eki-mae Chelsea Cafe

Nagarekawa bar catering to a late night crowd that prides itself on its whiskey selection. DJs spinning at weekends, good source of local nightlife info.

Drinks, tapas and meals. Good whiskey selection. Carp baseball games live on big screen.

Tue-Thur 20:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00-05:00, Sun 20:00-01:00 map B p.22 6

Monday-Saturday 17:00-03:00, Sunday 17:00-24:00 Tel/Fax 082-263-4330 map A p.22 7

Koba

La Luna

Rock loving BOM is one of Hiroshima’s most welcoming and entertaining bartenders. He whips up some very tasty food too.

International Food Bar with good music to relax, in comfortable surroundings Events every weekend

18-00-01:30 (L.O), Closed Wednesdays 082-249-6556 map B p.22 9

22:00-late Closed Sundays 082-241-6788 map B p.22 10

Mac

Mambos

Legendary Hiroshima watering hole with massive CD collection.

The place to dance to Latin music in Hiroshima. Salsa lessons every day and party nights every Friday and Saturday.

18:00-late Closed Sundays 082-243-0343 map B p.22 11

20:00-01:00 082-246-5809 map B p.22 12

New King Trendy and Pink, 2F bar run by the guys behind local hip men’s underwear boutique.

21:00-05:00 082-247-4487 map B p.22 14

Molly Malone’s

www.facebook.com/mollymaloneshiroshima Hiroshima’s authentic Irish pub. Great beer, great food, great service. The place to watch Premier League soccer. Tues-Thurs 17:00~01:00 / Fri 17:00~02:00 / Sat 11:30~02:00 / Sun + Nat Hol 11:30~24:00 / Closed Monday / 082-244-2554 map B p.22 13

Southern Cross Spacious ex-pat bar particularly with an antipodean theme. Room to breathe in a smoke free atmosphere. www.facebook.com/southerncrosshiroshima 18:00-01:00 082-236-3396 map B p.22 15

Tropical Bar Revolución Nobu’s popular 8F hangout, friendly and relaxed complete with balcony.

18:00-03:00~04:00 Closed Sun, hols map B p.22 17

The Shack Bar and Grill Spacious American-style bar amd grill on the Hondori covered shopping street near PARCO Department Store. Great for groups. Import bottled beers, week night drink deals, big menu and free pool table. Sun-Thurs 17:00-01:00, Fri & Sat 17:00-03:00 082-504-4170 map B p.22 16

Outsider Book Nook/Global Lounge Used English books to buy or exchange. Internet, cafe & meeting place. Lunches daily, bar from 19:00 Fri & Sat. Mon-Thurs 11:30-21:00 Fri & Sat 11:30-23:00, Closed Sun, hols 082-244-8145 map C p.23 [C-1] 2 1

IACE Travel Competitive prices, regular offers, and English speaking staff make IACE a popular choice for travellers. 082-240-2051 map C p.23 [B-1] 1

Travel With A.G. Tanaka will get you a great deal for your international and domestic travel needs. 10:00-20:00 (Sat, Sun, hols until 19:00) Closed Wednesdays 082-544-7718 map B p.22 4

Yamatoya

Cleo Hair International

Produced in limited quantities yet reasonably priced, a bottle of Hiroshima's top quality local Japanese sake makes for a great souvenir. www.piconet.co.jp/yamatoya/

Pamper yourself in this state of the art beauty salon on the 9th floor of the PACELA shopping center.

09:00-22:00 Closed Sundays 082-241-5660 map B p.22 5

10:00-20:00 082-511-2470 map C p.23 [B-1] 1

Laff Hair Design

Dormy Inn

Ippei’s skills and service have made him a huge hit among Hiroshima’s international community.

Great location. Single ¥6000 Double/Twin ¥10,000 (tourist discount)

082-504-7636 (English line) map C p.23 [B-1] 5

082-240-1177 map C p.23 [B-2] 1

Hana Hostel

Hotel Flex

“Hybrid inn” with knowledgeable staff near the station.

Stylish riverside hotel, rates include breakfast Singles ¥6825, Doubles ¥11,555≤

082-263-2980 map A p.22 2

082-223-1000 map A p.22 3

Ikawa Ryokan

J-Hoppers Hiroshima

Cozy, home-like atmosphere. Japanese and Western rooms. Coin laundry. S ¥5,940≤ / Twin ¥9,720 / Tr ¥14,580 Quad ¥17,280 / Breakfast ¥756 www.ikawaryokan.net info@ikawaryokan.net 082-231-5058 map C p.23 [A-2] 4

Hiroshima’s first backpacker guesthouse. Beds from ¥2300.

Reino Inn

Washington Hotel

Centrally located “Art & Culture” Hotel. Families and small pets welcome. Dorms ¥2700, singles from ¥3700 (¥2800 per person for 2 ppl), family rooms.

Hospitality, amenity and security right in the heart of Hiroshima. All rooms equipped with great bathrooms and separate lavatory. WiFi in all rooms

082-236-7003 map C p.23 [B-2] 6

http://washington-hotels.jp/hiroshima/ 082-553-2222 map B p.22 7

(Peace Park Hiroshima)

082-233-1360 map C p.23 [A-2] 5

The annual floating of lanterns on the Motoyasu River brought this summer’s commemorations of the 70th Mish Vampiro Photography http://www.mishvampiro.com

anniversary of the A-bombing to a close.

EVENTS PICK UP

YOKOGAWA ZOMBIE NIGHT

COMPACT f every 3rd Wednesday

2015 FIVB MEN’S VOLLEYBALL WORLD CUP

f Bar Edge / Electro, House, Techno

WHAT ABOUT WEDNESDAY? f every 3rd Wednesday @ Centre Point

ULTRA HAZE f every 2d Sunday f Bar Edge / Techno, Dubstep, Drum n’ bass, Reggae

FROIDE f every 3rd Friday f September 8-10 & September 12-13 @ Hiroshima

f Enjoint Bar Cover / House, Techno

Green Arena (Hiroshima Prefectural Sports Center) In the first round of the 2015 Volleyball World Cup 12

f October 31

THE CLUB ROCKS

national teams split into two groups play 30 matches over 5

Halloween has started to take off in Hiroshima and you

f every 3rd Friday

days. Two spots in the 2016 Olympic Games are up for grabs.

should check GetHiroshima.com for details about this year’s

f Bar Edge / Rock, Soul, House

parties and parades. Yokogawa is going zombie crazy with

HIROSHIMA OKTOBERFEST

movies, dress up, face-painting, parades and virtual reality.

MIYAJIMA “CROSS COUNTRY”

NEW WORLD f every 4th Friday f Sacred Spirits (Cafe Jamaica) / Techno, House

SOUL FOOD f every last Thursday @ Centre Point / Soul, Funk

IN DA DINING f every last Friday f Lotus (June / August) f September 11-23 / Weekdays 15:00-21:00, Sat,

f Bar Edge (July) / Hip-Hop, Soul, House

Sun, hols 11:00-21:00 A bit pricey, but very popular beer festival on the site of the

f November 29

IZMICAL

old baseball stadium opposite A-bomb Dome.

The deadline for entry to November 3rd’s Peace Marathon

f every 4th Friday @ Bar Edge / Eclectic dance

http://www.hiroshima-oktoberfest.jp/

will be long gone by the time this issue comes out, but entry

HIROSHIMA FOOD FESTIVAL

to this smaller (but more fun) run event on the island of

DUBWAY

Miyajima is open until October 5. Don’t let the name fool

f every 3rd Friday @ Mugen 5610 / Dub

you, it’s a road run, but the out and back 15km course is definitely a challenge. There are also 6km and 3km events,

SPORTS

and oyster stew too. http://www.hicat.ne.jp/home/kawamoto/

REGULAR CLUB NIGHTS SACRED SPIRITS

CARP HOME GAMES AT MAZDA “ZOOM ZOOM” STADIUM 9/8 (18:00) vs Chunichi Dragons, 9/9 (18:00) vs Chunichi Dragons, 9/10 (18:00) vs Chunichi Dragons, 9/15 (18:00) vs Yomiuri Giants, 9/20 (18:00) vs Yokohama DeNA BayStars, 9/21 (13:30) vs Yokohama DeNA BayStars, 9/25 (18:00)

f (almost) every Saturday

vs Hanshin Tigers, 9/26 (14:00) vs Hanshin Tigers, 9/27

f Cafe Jamaica, ¥1000 (incl 1 drink, 2 if enter before 24:00)

(13:30) vs Hanshin Tigers

Lots of food stalls and lots (and lots) of people in and

EASY SKANKING

around Hiroshima Castle and Chuo Central Park. Night

f every 2nd Tuesday

SANFRECCE HOME GAMES AT EDION STADIUM

kagura performances at Hiroshima Castle until 20:00 on the

f Centre Point / Dancehall, Reggae

9/12 (19:00) vs Montedio Yamagata, 9/19 (19:00) vs Sanga

f October 17 & 18 / 10:00-17:00

first day.

EURASIAN SUITE Go to gethiroshima.com/events for more details about these

f every 4th Thursday

and many more events.

f Bar Edge / Soul, Jazz, Old school House

30\

Tosu, 9/26 (15:00) vs Shimizu S-pulse, 10/3 (19:00) vs FC Tokyo, 10/17 (14:00) vs Kawasaki Frontale, 10/24 (14:00) vs Ventforet Kofu, 11/22 (13:30) vs Shonan Belmare

ART

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

Hiroshima Museum of Art

Well-designed building in Hijiyama hilltop park. Interesting

One of the largest art museums in Western Japan with a

Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso and many more works by great

sculptures and statues are dotted around the outside of the

permanent collection of over 4,800 works which include

modern European painters on display in this small, but

museum that can be viewed for free. Special exhibits and

Japanese nihonga painting, traditional Asian art crafts,

perfectly formed museum, very close to Hiroshima Castle.

the exhibits from the museum’s own collection displayed on

1920s and 1930s art, displayed on rotation. Right next to

Visit on a weekday and you may well have the whole place to

rotation along various themes. Map C p.23 8

Shukkei-en Garden. Map A p.22 13

yourself. Map C p.23 11

10:00-17:00 Admission to the collection exhibition: Adult

09:00-17:00 Admission to the permanent collection Adult

09:00-17:00 Admission to the general exhibition: Adult

¥370, College students ¥270, High school students, seniors

¥510, College students ¥310, High school students and

¥1000 Seniors ¥500 College & high school students ¥500

¥170, Junior High School and younger free

younger free .

Junior high school and elementary school students ¥200

082-264-1121 http://www.hiroshima-moca.jp/

082-221-6246 http://www.hpam.jp/

082-223-2530 http://www.hiroshima-museum.jp/

Admission until 30 minutes before closing. Special exhibition charges vary and usually include admission to permanent collections. Closed Mondays (unless National Holiday when closed the following business day).Hiroshima Museum of Art and Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum open everyday during special exhibitions.

EXHIBITIONS

Masterpieces of the Kyoto Municipal Museum of

KUNIYOSHI Show: UKIYO-e Artist of the Edo

Hiroshima Prefectural Museum of Art

October 31-December 23

Part 1: September 11-September 27, Part 2: September

Adult ¥1100, College & High school ¥700, Junior high &

28-October 18

elementary school ¥400 (Advance tickets ¥200 discount)

Adult ¥1100, College & High school ¥700, Junior high &

Transitions in the portrayal of the female form from the

elementary school ¥400 (Advance tickets ¥200 discount)

Meiji through the Showa Period shown via works from the

One of the last great masters of the ukiyo-e style of

Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art.

Art : The Allure of Kyoto, the Longing for Beauty

Gallery G Map A p.22 5

woodblock prints and painting active at the end of the Edo Period, Kuniyoshi Utagawa (1797-1861) known for his

Painters and their Palettes

eclectic, novel and humorous works inspired by a wide

Hiroshima Museum of Art

Private art space opposite the Prefectural Art Museum which

range of subjects. Ukiyo-e exhibitions can be a little dry,

September 5-October 18

holds weekly free exhibitions by local artists, designers and

but this show of around 200 of his representative works

Adult ¥1200, College & High school ¥900, Junior high &

artisans. 082-211-3260

has more than enough drama and humor to keep even the

elementary school ¥500 (Advance tickets ¥200 discount)

uninitiated interested.

Works by Picasso, Matisse and some of the leading

Picasso: The Genius Who Needs No Introduction

exponents of Western art in Japan on display alongside the

Fukuyama Museum of Art

palettes used by the artists.

September 19-October 18 / October 20-November 23 Closed Mondays (except National Holiday when closed the

Hiroshima Trilogy: 70th Anniversary of the Atomic

following day)

Bombing Part II A Bird’s-eye View of the World

140 works spanning Picasso’s entire career, shown over

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

two periods.

Utagawa Kuniyoshi, Sakata Kaidoumaru c.1836

October 10- December 6 A consideration of the significance of the bird’s eye view,

Hokusai and Riviere: Thirty-six Views Compared

taking art works featuring aerial views of Hiroshima as a

and the Hokusai Manga

starting point.

Kure Municipal Museum of Art October 10-November 23

Wonderland of Mitsumasa Anno’s Paintings

Closed Tuesdays (except November 3 when closed following

Hiroshima Museum of Art

day)

October 31-December 6

Henri Riviere’s “Thirty-six Views of the Eiffel Tower” along-

Works by Japanese illustrator and writer of children’s books,

side Hokusai’s “Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji.”

Mitsumasa Anno.

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2015

/31

vol.

g o to iz um i 's de ep hiroshima

呉

Outsider Town Kure

Greetings to you readers of the English language. It’s Goto Izumi, lover of the strange over the pretty. Exhausted Hiroshima’s tourist attractions? I invite you to a veritable wonderland only a short hop away. Not Miyajima, Onomichi, nor the Zoom Zoom stadium, this wonderland of which I speak is the town of Kure.

Words and photos by

Goto Izumi / translation

by Paul Walsh

For more photos and a detailed map of all the locations mentioned in this article go to http://gethiroshima.com/deepkure Kure is 30-45 minutes by Kure Line train from Hiroshima JR Station and about 40 minutes by bus from Hiroshima Bus Center.

Kure is so different from Hiroshima. Small, but with a singularly individual character. Forget the Yamato Museum and yatai street stalls, and head for the backstreets where the romance of the Showa era remains. The real Japan, warts and all. Here, I cover some shopping, amusement, dining, nightlife and haikyo “sights” you won’t find in your Lonely Planet. Information as rare as gold, gathered over 2 full days of exploration based on recommendations from kindred Kure experts and dredged from the dark recesses of the Internet. So, without further ado, “Let’s Maniac Kure Tour!”

SEE「見る」 GENSOUHOU-JI

KANBARA-YU

MIKITANI-I-IN

源宗坊寺 3-14 Shimizu, Kure-shi 〒737-0022 This temple, founded by an unordained priest in 1964, is filled with Buddhist statues fashioned out of concrete by the same priest. In no way a professional artist, the results are delightfully haphazard and childlike.

神原湯 5-7-20 Miyahara, Kure-shi 〒737-0024 A sadly, defunct bathhouse. You need to make a reservation to arrange a time to view it, but it’s worth it. The place has been left just as it was when it was in business. It’s like being on a Showa era film set. 0823-21-7576 (Japanese).

三木谷医院（みきたにいいん） 2-6-11 Hiroryotani Kure-shi 〒737-0123 From the outside, you’d swear this place was derelict but it is, in fact, a functioning hospital. Head up to the second floor, however, and you are in real haikyo territory. Say hello at the reception and they will let you have a look around.

32\

YWCA YWCA（わいだぶりゅしーえー） 3-1 Sawai-cho, Kure-shi 〒737-0028 Ask at the office to get a look inside this western style building built in 1948. It’s still used for occasional events and the staff speak English, so it’s possible to ask questions. The wooden building tilts in a beautifully worn way.

MELON-PAN HONTEN メロンパン本店（めろんぱんほんてん） 7-14-1 Hondori, Kure-shi 〒737-0045 Kure’s most famous bakery is no fancy patisserie. It’s pretty run down and the selection hasn’t changed in years. Nonetheless, it is hugely popular. Pick up a treat to take home. I can’t guarantee it’ll be to your taste, but it is very popular.

HOUSES CLUSTERED UNDER OVERPASSES 3 Sawai-cho, Kure-shi 〒737-0028 Right next to the YWCA, most of these living spaces, built illegally in the post-war chaos, are now empty and will surely soon be redeveloped.

TAKAHIKO SHOTEN 多賀彦商店（たがひこしょうてん） 1-7-19 Kaigan, Kure-shi 〒737-0823 A real old school toy shop. The owner may even do a little show for you using the toys - this almost got him run over by a car when I visited. Full of toys you’d never find in Hiroshima city.

BUY「買う」 SHOTENGAI 商店街（しょうてんがい） 1-7-19 Kaigan, Kure-shi 〒737-0823 Many neighborhood shotengai shopping streets remain in Kure, full of stuff you won’t see in department stores. Some are still quite vibrant, others far from it. I love the tiny, local places, but beginners can start at the central shotengai.

PLAY「遊ぶ」 ONDO-TOSEN FERRY 音戸渡船（おんどとせん） Kegoya, Ondo Japan’s shortest ferry ride has been running for 300 years! It takes 3 minutes to make the 120m journey across the Ondo Straight and costs only ¥70. I highly recommend taking this opportunity to reenact that scene from Titantic.

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2015

/33

OLIVE ONSEN オリーブ温泉（おりーぶおんせん） 1-12-38 Washou, Kure-shi 〒737-0041 Similar in Showa-retro style to Kanbara-yu. Olive Onsen, located in a residential area, is one of the increasingly rare public bathhouses that used to be found all over Japan. Try it out while you can. Adult ¥400

OOZORA-TAMA HOUDAI ATOCHI 大空山砲台跡（おおぞらやまほうだいあとち） Aga-cho, Kure-shi This wartime gun battery site is something of a low level haikyo, but it is a very quiet spot with good views, both in the day and at night. A good date spot perhaps. Mind you, it is not at all romantic.

EAT「食べる」 AKARENGA 赤煉瓦 1-11-13 Hiro-honmachi, Kure-shi 〒737-0125 This cafe-restaurant’s interior and the menu bring back memories of a bygone era. Koi carp swim in an indoor pond, the food showcase is splendid and the dishes tasty.

BRAZIL

KUWADA SHOKUDO

SANTOS

ぶらじる 4-12-19 Naka-dori, Kure-shi 〒737-0046 Kure’s No. 1 junkissa coffee shop. One can only imagine the dramas that have played out within these quiet walls. Easily accessible in the city center and serving junkissa standards. Fix your tie and ready yourself for a real Showa experience.

桑田食堂（くわだしょくどう） 2-1-27 Chuo, Kure-shi 〒737-0051 There’s no way you’ll find a tourist in this eatery much-loved by locals. Pick what you want to eat from the showcase and order a drink. An oasis for the overworked salaryman.

サントス（さんとす） 2-5-18 Naka-dori, Kure-shi 〒737-0051 Another venerable junkissa. The “rice omlette curry” (omuraisu curry) served on a plate overflowing with sauce is very popular. Always delivered to your table by hand, sometimes with the server’s finger in it.

34\

HORAFUKI

CAFE DE NICE

KISSA MEXICO

ほらふき 2-7-12 Hondori, Kure-shi 〒737-0045 Nabe hot pot restaurant with fantastic ambience and unbelievable portion sizes. Understandably popular with locals, you’ll need a reservation. (0823-23-6620 Japanese)

カフェドゥナイス（かふぇどないす） 3-2-26 Naka-dori, Kure-shi 〒737-0046 I can’t quite get my head around this mysterious coffee shop. Only open at night and a secret haunt of local celebrities, they serve three kinds of coffee, “red”, “white” and “black”. I really wanted to try the “white”, but it was sold out.

喫茶メキシコ（きっさめきしこ） 3-8-13 Naka-dori, Kure-shi 〒737-0046 Kure’s deepest cafe in no way brings Mexico to mind. If the old lady is asleep, just wake her up. Anyone who braves the coffee has my respect. Clothes and exercise machines are piled up in the back. Stay away from unlabeled bottles!

ACAPULCO NO UMI

DAGASHI-YOKOCHOSAN-CHO-ME

DRINK「呑む」 OOMURA オオムラ 4-3-19 Naka-dori, Kure-shi 〒737-0046 Delicious draft beer of inestimable quality, poured using an antique machine. Once closed after the owner passed away, Oomura has been reopened by a loyal customer. Packed with beer lovers every night.

アカプルコの海（あかぷるこのうみ） 4-11-15 〒737-0046 Kure’s most colorful nightspot. Filipino ladies join you on arrival, but disappear after the kampai. Alone, a little intimidating, there is safety in numbers. Karaoke is free and the stage is marvellously gaudy. I had fun chatting with the ladies about their daily struggles.

駄菓子横丁三丁目（だがしやよこちょうさんちょうめ） 4-1-10 Hon-dori 〒737-0045 This bar, near Acapulco no umi, is also a traditional Japanese dagashi candy shop. The ¥500 seating charge includes all you can eat candy and they have some unusual drinks. I recommend asking the owner to prepare you something special.

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2015

/35

Hiking mt Gokurakuji Miyajima gets the attention and Mt Misen the crowds. However, across from the sacred island is another ancient pilgrimage route. The trail up to the historic temple atop 693m Mt Gokurakuji passes 500 year old trees and offers views over Miyajima and the Inland Sea. Continue to a beautiful lake, and finish with a soak in an onsen before getting driven back down the mountain for free

Gokurakuji Temple stands near the top of the mountain that bears its name. It is said that when the Buddhist saint, Gyoki, visited Miyajima Island in the mid-8th century, he looked across the water and saw a great shining cedar on the mountain. He sculpted this tree into a Senju Kannon (the thousand-armed goddess of mercy) and built a temple in which to store it. The founder of the Shingon sect, Kukai, also known as Kobo Daishi, is said to have consecrated the Kannon in 806. The great warlord Motonari Mori reconstructed the main hall and, though it has been repaired several times since, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dark wooden simplicity retains an air of antiquity. Behind the main temple are two collections of stone statues and the grounds are particularly pleasant in late October.

36\

The Gokurakuji-yama trailhead is just under 2km from Hatsukaichi Station and once on the trail it is regularly signposted (in Japanese). Stone markers also mark your progress, one 109m chou [丁] at a time (1). It’s 37 chou to the top, and, not far from the trailhead, a sign indicates it’s a 110 minute climb (2). The trail passes a viewpoint with a large pylon and crosses the expressway (3). From here you leave the crowded coastline behind. Passing signs saying 60, then 40 minutes to go, you begin to see large boulders. After a small shrine housing a Jizo statue on the left (4) and more good views, the trail climbs to a junction where a sign, pointing right, promises only 20 more minutes of walking (5). The trail flattens out through a beautiful stretch of forest, bringing you to a serene spot where a buddhist statue sits on top of a pile of large boulders (D). From here, stick to the main path, ignoring tracks heading down to the left, and you will come to the bottom of some stone steps up to a large temple gate (6). Pass through the gate and continue up more rough steps which bring you to Gokuraku-ji Temple (A). Although not at the summit, the viewing platform here offers the best views (B). You’ll also find simple toilet facilities and drink vending machines here.

wooden steps immediately to your right following the wooden sign 展望広場 0.1km (8). At the viewless summit there’s a sign to the lake 蛇の池 0.5km (9). Keep following these signs 0.4km, 0.3km, until you reach the 0.1km sign pointing left (10). Descending through the campsite brings you to the lake, full of lotus plants, colorful koi carp and turtles. Follow the path past the lake to the campsite reception. Head right along the road until you come to the entrance to Sakura-no-sato (さくらの里) on the left (11). The sign board here shows your current position (現在地) as a red bullseye, the cherry tree area in pink and our destination, Arcadia Village (アルカディア・ビレッジ), in yellow. Make your way down the leafy road (12) until you come to an open area. Look for a narrow path at the corner of open field on the left (there is another sign board similar to the one at the entrance here) (13). A wooden sign points back to the temple 1.5km and on to Arcadia Village 1.0km (20min). Follow this path, passing another wooden sign after 100m, and at the fork towards the top of the rise, take the path that goes over into the forest (straight and then immediate right). Follow the path through the forest, descend some steps after a sign saying 0.5km to go (14), until you come to two low, wide benches (15). From here you can go down the steps to the left which takes you through the adventure playground, or go straight - both take you to Arcadia Village (16).

From here you can head back down the mountain, or continue on to Jah-no-ike Lake (25min) and the Arcadia Village hot spring onsen resort (60min). Route finding from here can be a little tricky so make sure you have ample daylight remaining if continuing on.

front desk (¥550 for over 12, ¥310 for children up to 12). You can also buy a small wash towel for ¥150. There are a few different baths, as well as a nice outdoor rotenburo bath. Free buses leave from Arcadia Village at 09:00, 14:00 and 17:00 calling at Hatsukaichi City Hall and Miyauchi Kushido JR Station (30-45min). A restaurant is also open for lunch and dinner. Arcadia Village is closed the 1st and 3rd Thursdays of the month. Here, we have introduced the Hera course (平良コース), one of 3 hiking routes to the summit. You can, of course, drive or take the free bus up and down, but where’s the fun in that? For more photos and details go to http://bit.ly/ gokurakujihike

Arcadia Village has separate onsen baths for men and women. Put your shoes in a locker and buy bath tickets from a machine across from the

Head down the road behind the temple (F) until you come to some gates and a parking lot. Take the

693m WC

Gokurakuji Temple

Arcadia Village

Jah-no-ike lake

H TRAIL ACCESS

chi

cou

Trailhead

rse ou ra c

ou ac r a

kai

rse

Itsu

rse

in)

(12

From the tunnel exit count 4 rice fields on your left. The concrete path to the trailhead is directly opposite the 4th rice field. Pass close in front of a private house, follow a concrete wall and look

hi JR Hatsukaic WC

for a steep path on the right opposite a newly built house.

Route

GetHiroshima / Autumn 2015

/37

Matt’s Moment

A Season of Memory

Autumn takes such abuse as a moth-eaten metaphor for decline. “Knows’t thou not at the fall of the leaf” and so on. Here in Japan, the poets have done no better. My daughter’s learning an old thing at school that goes, “Deep in the mountains, I hear the cry of a deer tramping through maple leaves. Ah, how sad autumn is!” But from my desk, the curtains drawn against the blaze of late July, autumn looks more like triumph, however transient. What makes you feel more alive than turning a corner into a crisp, giddy breeze that sets your trousers flapping and your hands scrabbling for the collar of your jacket?

It’s all coming together! It never does. But within reasonable limits, time renders bad memories nearly as good as great ones, so I shrug and look to next year.

Not a season of decline, then, but perhaps one of memory? Autumn seems, somehow, more bound to the past than other seasons. If time is a wheel, autumn is where the rim has bent, giving a slow, steady thrumming to the cadence of the years. These are the months when tradition takes on its darkest, most enchanting aspect.

Yes, I know. You had to be there.

As a child, knowing exactly what the perfect autumn should look like, I never had one. Every year something was off. News of mad poisoners dosing the Halloween candy, a flush of late heat in November, my mother’s unhappy experiments with the holiday menu (to which novelty is no friend). My gleefully flatulent, Amway-selling cousin at Thanksgiving dinner, with God-knew-what flecking his sandy moustache. Probably Mom’s Ugandan peanut butter stew. But I never lost faith. I still haven’t. Just as the rest of the world is succumbing to thoughts of death, I always feel most hopeful. This is the year!

38\

One Saturday in 1987, though, I came very close. I was in Colorado, living with hippies in a town so brimming with hippies that wherever you went the talk was of whether the recent Harmonic Convergence had inaugurated a profound shift in global consciousness or whether it was a total bust and our present hell cycle was poised to roll on indefinitely.

Ignoring all this, I had bought a penny whistle. I did not know how to play it, but my housemate Jim Dobkowski suggested that the trees would teach me. That sounded like uncommonly good sense, so I headed up a trail into Boulder Canyon to seek instruction. I found a likely aspen, and sat beneath it. Jim had sent me off with certain provisions and I availed myself of them now, gazing across the foothills of the Rockies. Aspen leaves, in early fall, tremble at the slightest breeze in colors from gold to glowing reds to a startling orange that makes the hills look as if they were afire. My tree was one such, and I leaned back into it. I brought out my new whistle and played. I didn’t know what notes the holes made, or how they might relate to one another. I just sort of waggled my fingers up and down the thing and blew. My

whistle went, “Noodly-noodly-oodle.” I was happy. So was the girl who, unexpectedly, now sat cross-legged in the dirt with an enraptured smile. I nodded to her and played. A young Vietnamese man and his wholesome blond girlfriend from California (I know because they talked to me later, asking if I had tapes to sell) were next. Smiling, swaying people came and went, one woman breaking into wordless song from deep in her belly, and what could I do but play whatever the tree told me to? Noodly-oodly-oo. At one point perhaps nine or ten people lay scattered around me. Overhead, sleek clouds made for the high plains of Kansas with reckless speed. The wind in the canyon set the leaves shivering, and we were all painted in a shifting motley of sunlight and shadow. Someone gave me a dark, massive apple muffin, and it was good. Or so I remember it. From where I sit, sweating through a brutal summer in western Japan, it’s hard to imagine you in autumn, the wheel come round again. Ah well, I’ll get there. In the meantime, I hope you’re enjoying it. I hope your mornings have a thrill of cold in them. I hope your hands curl gratefully around the warmth of the day’s first coffee. I hope you’re out the door early enough to watch the sun throw shadows down the east-west streets, and hear the dawn birds call across the long hours to the dusk birds, driving the ancient engines of dark and light. Make memories, good or spectacularly bad. This is the year! You’re on the road! It’s perfect.

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