Gethiroshima Mag Spring 2014

Seasonal

Going Out

Visitors

Life

Hanami Festivals Sports

Dining & Nightlife Events Art & Cinema

Pull-out maps Sights Transportation

Shopping Leisure Kids

Meet BOM Hiroshima’s real tourism ambassador

THE SPRING ISSUE 2014

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01

KeMBY˙s I N T E R N A T I O N A L

Tapas, Bar & Restaurant

Looking for high quality food in a casual atmosphere? Kemby’s has all the bases covered with a great selection of tapas, pasta and Tex Mex, as well as gourmet sausages, seafood and their famous burgers.

Owner Prakash prides himself on his excellent wine selection, and is happy to help you make the right choice. As well as a full drink list, Kemby’s also has a very good selection of imported bottled craft beers.

Whether you are in the mood for a meal, you want to shoot some pool, or just shoot the breeze with the bilingual staff and friendly regulars, great nights start at Kemby’s.

Good food, Good people, Good atmosphere 17:30-00:30 Monday-Thursday 17:30-01:00 Friday-Saturday

facebook.com/kembyshiroshima twitter.com/KembysHiroshima

Naka-ku, Otemachi 2-9-13 082-249-6201 map p.29 [A-3] 12

Hiroshima Restaurants > KeMBY’s OK!

Happy Hou!!r 17:30-19:30 All alcohol

¥ 2 0 0 OF F

European & South American food & drinks Lunches from ¥590 15:00-19:00 Happy hour drinks and tapas ¥300 All-you-can-drink deals From ¥1000 for 60min Any time of day Open 09:00-23:00 L.O.

Credit Cards accepted 0 8 2- 5 0 2-7 4 6 6

Map p.29 [C-2] 7

COUPON Show this magazine ad for

FREE CAKE WITH LUNCH 10% OFF DINNER (over ¥1000)

International DJ bar Open till 5am 365 days of the year No cover Sunday-Thursday ¥1000 cover Friday & Saturday (incl 1 drink) Happy Hour ¥300 drinks 18:00-21:00 Music requests OK! No cover for ladies Fridays All night all-you-can-drink ¥3800 (Excludes Saturday)

Credit cards accepted 0 8 2-2 4 6 -5 8 0 0

Map p.29 [C-4] 3

COUPON Show this magazine ad for

FREE ADMISSION ON FRIDAY AND SATURDAY and ¥3800 ALL-YOU-CAN-DRINK ANY NIGHT OF THE WEEK!

WELCOME

GetHiroshima Mag Issue 1 March 1, 2014 Circulation 7,500 copies Published quarterly Next issue June 1, 2014 Printed by Hiroshima Chuo Printing Co., Ltd. Motoaki Tahara http://www.chuo-print.com/ Editor-in-chief Paul Walsh

Welcome to Hiroshima, and to the first GetHiroshima Mag!

So why, after nearly a decade and a half online, are we starting a magazine? Isn’t print dead?

Although New Year is traditionally the time for resolutions and new starts, here in Japan, the new year doesn’t really get going until spring. Winter’s cold grip, felt so keenly through the walls of Hiroshima dwellings, starts to loosen, and people come out of hibernation. Leaving the heated carpets and kotatsu tables, we all slowly become active once more. The start of April, marked by the beautiful cherry blossoms, is a fresh start for students, college graduates and the many people transferred to new workplaces. You can literally see a spring in everyone’s step, and good humor and goodwill abound in equal measure.

Well, we certainly hope print isn’t dead! We feel that in this, the age of the app, there is still a desire for the feel of paper in hand, flicking through pages in a cafe, or on a streetcar.

And so, it seems appropriate that spring marks the start of a new adventure for GetHiroshima.

GetHiroshima began as a kind of online notebook of its two founders’ discoveries when they were looking for reasons to stay in the city. Launched in the spring of 2000, the fact that we are still here is proof enough that we did find plenty of ways to spice up our lives! The site seems to have become a useful resource that is not only relied upon for information, but used as a means of bringing people of different nationalities and backgrounds together in fun and meaningful ways.

In 2004, the GetHiroshima Map grew from the inspiration of a friend. She wanted to help lost-looking tourists on street corners find their way around the city more easily.

We wanted to provide an easy to use introduction to the Hiroshima that we know and love. To help newcomers scratch the surface, and hopefully get a sense of what it is like to live here, rather than just pass through.

Our unashamed aim is to inspire visitors to go beyond Peace Park and Miyajima; To make them stay a day or two longer than planned, or at least make them regret having to leave.

We also hope Hiroshima’s active international community will also find it of interest, and perhaps be inspired to contribute.

In this first issue, amongst other things, we look at how to fully enjoy the fleeting, but beautiful sakura cherry blossom season, as well the many festivals around the region. We look at Hiroshima’s signature dish - the savory layered okonomiyaki - and explore gloriously grimy ramen shops.

Read on to find out where to view 17th century hina dolls and buy tattoo inspired leatherware, where you can catch the Oslo Philharmonic or groove the night away to space disco.

There would be no GetHiroshima - site, map or mag - if it were not for the energetic and passionate people who have changed the face of Hiroshima’s social scene in the years since we embarked on our journey. Our work is an ongoing thank you for keeping us here for almost 20 years. In this issue they are represented by local bar owner, and unofficial tourism ambassador, Tsuyoshi “BOM” Mitsuyuki.

So, flick through our pages and make the effort to check out the new and unfamiliar. You never know where and with whom you might end up! That’s the fun of Japan, and it is none more so than here in Hiroshima. Get out there and Get Hiroshima!

Design team NININBAORI http://nininbaori.co.jp/ Katsuyoshi Kunimasa Norimitsu Maki Judith Cotelle Ryouta Kumagai Sales, PR and marketing GEC World/GetHiroshima Tomomi Saito Saki Herbert Contributors Tim Buthod Goto Izumi Matt Mangham Haruhiko Oyama Benjamin Soar JJ Walsh Paul Walsh Rod Walters Photography AG http://www.flickr.com/photos/kaikos-ag Judith Cotelle http://judhiroshima.tumblr.com Jumpei Ishida Goto Izumi hirofoto Tori Maas Mish Vampiro Photography http://www.mishvampiro.com JJ Walsh Rod Walters Special thanks to Tsuyoshi “BOM” Mitsuyuki and our generous sponsors.

Find us online www.gethiroshima.com www.facebook.com/GetHiroshima http://gethiroshima.tumblr.com @GetHiroshima on Twitter & Instagram Tag us with #gethiroshimamag All rights reserved © GetHiroshima 2014

Paul Walsh As far as we are aware all info correct at time of going to print. If you see something that has changed, we’d really appreciate you letting us know at info@gethiroshima.com A word about prices

Cover:

All the prices quoted are correct at time of printing, but are liable

Tsuyoshi “Bom” Mitsuyuki Photo: Junpei Ishida

to change.

Japanese sales tax increases from 5% to 8% in April 2014, so price increases are likely across a range of items and services.

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Warning/Disclaimer GetHiroshima and GEC World will not accept liability for any damages caused by the contents of GetHiroshima Mag, including, but not limited to any omissions, errors, facts or false statements. Opinions or advice expressed in GetHiroshima Mag are not necessarily those of GetHiroshima or GEC World.

03

welcome

05

Your Best Shot

07

Must See

08

GetHiroshima Picks

09

Shopping

10

News

19

Spring Festivals

21

Sport/ Hiroshima Carp and Sanfrecce Why does Hiroshima love the Carp so much,

CONTENTS

and why you should too.

By Tim Buthod 25

Features

Kampai!

Hiroshima Sake Guide

By Haruhiko Oyama 34

Hidden Miyajima

41

Events

43

Cinema

45

Kids

46

Listings

51

Art

52

Inside/Out You mean there are cycling laws?!

55

Everyone Loves Hanami Getting the most out of Hiroshima’s beautiful cherry blossom season.

17

Festival Focus Hiroshima launches into spring at the massive 3 day Flower Festival.

23

Hiroshima Okonomiyaki

By jjwalsh

Everything you need to know

Hiroshima People/: BOM

about Hiroshima’s soul food.

By Paul Walsh 56

11

35

Matt’s Moment

Across The Water Spring in Matsuyama: the gateway to Shikoku.

By Rod Walters

26

8 page pullout

37

Ramen Gird your loins and join our ramen explorer.

City guide

By Matt Mangham 39

Goto Izumi’s Deep Hiroshima Let Hiroshima’s bohemian queen take you on a trip.

By Goto Izumi 53

A book and a Coffee Dead trees and coffee beans, A match made in heaven.

By Matt Mangham

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/04

Your Best Shot

Thank you to Tori Maas for submitting this lovely capture of the Kintai-kyo Bridge in Iwakuni, illuminated during cherry blossom season.

If you would like to be featured in one of our upcoming issues, please contact us at bestshot@gethiroshima.com Photo credit Tori Maas tori.maas203@gmail.com

Miyajima

MUST SEE Peace MEMORIAL park and museum Most visitors to Hiroshima are here, first and foremost, to learn about the A-bombing and its aftermath, and the Peace Memorial Park and Museum is the place to do that. By no stretch of the imagination can the museum be described as fun, but you should set aside an adequate amount of time (at least an hour) to make your way through the two wings, as well as time to process the experience. You will find hope as well as tragedy here. Hiroshima endured the unendurable and has rebounded. The museum serves, not only to document and preserve the memory of the event and those it affected, but also to promote its appeal for the abolition of nuclear weapons. Hiroshima’s commitment to spreading that message is evident in the nominal ¥50 admission charge.

Go Deeper

The island of Itsukushima - or Miyajima as it is more commonly known - is quite simply, divine. It’s very trees, rocks and sands deemed sacred since times from which only myth and legend remain, Miyajima’s main attraction is Itsukushima Shrine, built over the water in the 12th century so as not to impinge on the island’s sacred soil. All Shinto shrines have a torii gate through which the gods housed within are to be approached. The gate to Itsukushima is an iconic image that has adorned the front of many a guidebook since being designated as one of the nihon sankei, “three great scenic views of Japan”.

“Great view” status brings great crowds. However, most visitors stick to the area between the ferry terminal and Itsukushima Shrine. Follow the main route to Itsukushima Shrine and try to catch the great torii gate both in its “floating” state at full tide and at low tide when you can walk right up to it, marvel and feel its bulk. Then, head off and explore the side streets and park trails. Visit the One Thousand Mat Senjyokaku Pavillion and Daishoin Temple, and try to make the trip up to the summit of mythical Mt Misen. Late afternoon, the crowds melt away and just before sunset, lanterns light up and Itsukushima Shrine and the 5 storey pagoda are illuminated. The atmosphere is quite special.

12 hour se r u o c l e d o m Station

Shukkei-en

r

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Walk

Shukkei-en Garden A delightfully compact reconstruction of a “circular tour style garden” designed by warrior tea master Soko Ueda in 1620. The central lake is populated by koi, turtles and heron. Explore the narrow paths. Monthly cultural events held here.

Hiroshima Castle “Carp Castle” is a 1958 reconstruction of the original Edoera castle built by Terumoto Mori in the late 16th century.

It houses a mildly interesting museum and has a viewing platform. Despite its pleasant grounds, visitors who have come from Himeji may not be too impressed.

Mt Misen © Mish Vampiro Photography

Mt Misen © Mish Vampiro Photography

ca eet

Str

Beaten tracks

Shukkei-en Garden © Mish Vampiro Photography

Senjyokaku Pavilion © Mish Vampiro Photography

A sudden return to the hustle and bustle of the city center can jar the senses and the grounds of the Peace Park provide a buffer, both spacial and emotional. Here, you can sit quietly beneath trees that defied fears that “nothing would grow for 75 years” and which brought hope to the devastated populace. You may be approached by nervous school children on school trips, wishing to ask you a few simple questions in halting English. The contrast of their smiling, happy faces with what you have seen in the museum lifts your heart.

Hiroshima Optional Tours offer private tours by friendly and knowledgeable licensed guides.

For more details of these and other tours check out HiroshimaTours.info [en]

Riverside Breakfast

Stre

• Nagataya • Caffe Ponte

etca

r

• Flex Hotel • Kyobashi • Riverside cafes

Streetcar

• Kanawa Oyster Boat

Peace Park

Walk

Lunch at Peace Park

Boat to Miyajima

GetHiroshima picks

Mitaki Temple

Hiroshima Carp

Beautiful and atmospheric at any time of the year. Whether you consider yourself spiritual or not, the dense greenery and flowing water will calm the most harried traveler. Highly recommended, even for those suffering from from Kyoto “temple fatigue”. Mitaki Station is 10min by train from Hiroshima on the Kabe Line, from where it is at 20 minute walk up the hill.

You can catch Hiroshima folk at their most relaxed and ebullient at a Carp baseball game. Carp fans are known for their exuberance (and boundless optimism). Baseball fan or not, taking in a game at Mazda Stadium is a memorable experience.

See more about our local heroes and how to see a game on page 21.

Kagura Ancient myths and folktales performed in extravagant costumes to frenetic drum rhythms. Kagura evolved from sacred dances performed by priests into a folk art that involves whole communities. Without a car, you have to be quite motivated to access the northern heartland of kagura, but there are performances at Hiroshima Kenmin Bunka Center near the A-bomb Dome at 7pm every Wednesday from April 2 at for ¥1000. http://kagura.tank.jp/ [ja]

Futabayama hike

Futabayama view

Out On The Town

Toshogu Shrine

After learning about all that Hiroshima endured, it can be tempting to give in to the urge to hole up in your hotel.

Resist that urge and get out into this fun city to eat, drink and, yes - make merry, with its people. Only then, can you get a true and full appreciation of what a special place Hiroshima is.

Peace Pagoda, Futaba-yama As you come into Hiroshima Station on the shinkansen, you may notice the bulbous, silver Peace Pagoda on top of Mt Futaba. The walk up the mountain, starting at Toshogu Shrine and winding up through a forest under 100 or so red torii gates, is worth the effort and you are rewarded with a commanding view of the city and surrounding islands from the top.

Only have one day in Hiroshima?

We feel sorry for you as you are going to miss so much! However, if it can’t be helped, here’s one way to “do” Hiroshima in just 12 hours or so. It’s pretty full on and you’ll probably be exhausted when you sink into your train seat to head back to your digs.

Sure you don’t want to stay the night?

• Torii Gate & Itsukushima Shrine • Daisho-in • Mt Misen

Carp

• Snacking on Omotesando Shopping Street • Kanawa • Namaste

Train

Dinner

• Sarii-chan

Station

LAST TRAINS

Miyajima

Photos © JudHiroshima

• Tokyo: NOZOMI: 19:58 / Non-NOZOMI: 20:26 • Osaka: NOZOMI: 22:17 / Non-NOZOMI: 21:58 • Fukuoka (Hakata): NOZOMI: 22:50 / Non-NOZOMI: 22:28 Train schedules do change so we highly recommend you double check the above information.

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/08

g n i p p Sho

M

by JJ Walsh

iyajima’s little momiji-manju maple leaf-shaped sponge cakes are Hiroshima’s signature omiyage souvenirs; boxes of which domestic tourists are obliged to take home for family, friends and co-workers. They are traditionally filled with sweet bean paste but now come filled with everything from cream cheese to chocolate. Find them all over Miyajima and Hiroshima- particularly yummy eaten warm with a cup of green tea.

International visitors can find a good variety of packable souvenirs at SunMall or along the covered Hondori shopping arcade. High quality brushes for makeup, art or calligraphy are mostly still handmade in the town of Kumano in Hiroshima. It’s estimated that Kumano brushes supply 80% of all brushes made in Japan. If you can’t make it out to Kumano itself, there is a Kumano brush shop next to the Daiso ¥100 Shop on the Hondori covered arcade near Peace Park.

Visitors also rave about Daiso itself. Great for cheap yet interesting souvenirs. Bargain packs of green tea, Japanese snacks, sweets and unique items can be found here, each for just over ¥100.

For something more quirky, the shops in the station have an interesting selection of keychains and trinkets- how about Godzilla chowing down on okonomiyaki, Ultraman karate chopping a maple leaf cake or a box of Hiroshima Station mints?

Photo © Mish Vampiro Photography

Handmade in Hiroshima Inspired by, and an inspiration for, tattoo artists, designer and craftsman Kitazaki-san AKA Chelsea Leather Art Work fashions one-of-a-kind made-to-order leather goods. He is very active online and his English is good. Reach out to him through his blog, Facebook Page, Twitter and Instagram feeds where you can view his latest projects and get insights into the painstakingly intricate carving, detailing and dyeing process that results in these beautiful items http://chelsea-leather-art-work.com/ [en]

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© Chelsea Leather Art Work

NEWS SAYONARA AI-YU-ICHIBA

HIROSHIMA’S NEW HOSPITALITY BRIGADE If a phalanx of red-vested volunteers make a beeline for you next to time you get off the shinkansen, don’t worry, they are there to help. Hiroshima Omotenashi Tai, snappily rendered into English as “Hiroshima Big-Heart Omotenashi Volunteers”, aim to provide a smiley welcome and to smooth the, not always clear, path from station to destination. Have you experienced their hospitality? Let us know at feedback@ gethiroshima.com.

GET ONLINE AND SURF FOR FREE! Hiroshima Free Wi-Fi Free online access provided by the local government in 7 locations. Registration and access possible on the spot. Convenient hotspots in the Peace Museum and the International Conference Center (also in the Peace Memorial Park) which has a lounge with many English publications to browse.

Select SSID “Hiroshima_Free_Wi-Fi” Seattle’s Best Coffee Fuss-free access, a smoking section which can be a pleasure for some and pain for others, plus a couple of outdoor tables.

Starbucks Coffee 4 city center locations. Email confirmation is required so you have to pre-register before you hit the coffee shop. Once signed up, you can surf at branches all over Japan.

Go to http://starbucks.wi2.co.jp/ [en] Restaurants, cafes and bars Look for the Free WiFi logo on our maps and ads for places that invite you to log on to their WiFi with their password.

The ramshackle, but utterly charming market, which grew out of the post war black market around Hiroshima Station, finally succumbed to the wrecking ball at the end of 2013.

The market, some of whose tenants began selling as children after losing their parents to the A-bomb, was a living repository of the history of Hiroshima’s rise from the ashes.

It will be replaced by a shiny 46F apartment block and an 11F shopping center.

Meipuru~pu Hop-on, Hop-off

Hiroshima Sightseeing Loop Bus pass ¥400 ¥200 a ride / Day JR Pass OK! Stops at all the sights • A-bomb Dome & Peace Memorial Park • Shukkeien Garden & Prefectural Art Museum • Hiroshima Museum of Art & Castle • Contemporary Art Museum • Shopping district Departs from Hotel Granvia Hiroshima Station Shinkansen Exit, every 30min 09:00-17:30 English speaking guide: Free guides meet the 10am & 1pm departures at A-Bomb Dome.

March-July 18/September 1-November (Saturdays) July 19-August 31 (Saturday, Sunday & Holidays)

PADDLE, BIKE AND HIKE ON ETAJIMA Sea to Summit races start in a canoe, transfer to a bike and finish with a dash to a mountain top. Usually tackling a big peak, this Etajima version to be held June 1, may appeal to novices as it finishes on 408.1m Mt. Hotai. http://bit.ly/seatosummit2014 [ja]

Sakura Meipuru~pu March 25 - April 4* Easiest way to Hijiyama Cherry Blossoms!

Buses until 19:30 between Hiroshima Station Shinkansen Exit and the Contemporary Art Museum. *Dates may change depending on blossom timing.

fish” ramen each spring, and it makes its final outing this year. Veggie Ramen NANA, gyoza and fried itameshi rice are available at branches of Kagetsu Arashi from March 5. http://bit.ly/veggieramen [en]

NEW VIEWING PLATFORM ON MT MISEN VEGETARIAN RAMEN! Local architect Hiroshi Sambuichi has done a lovely job in creating a new viewing platform on the summit of Mt. Misen on Miyajima. Helicopters lifted equipment and materials to the 535m high site over several months. The 3 storey structure harmonizes well with the surroundings and uses sweet smelling locally sourced hinoki cypress.

We don’t usually recommend heading to shopping malls to eat, but vegetarians may want to make the effort for this rare chance to enjoy tasty, meat free ramen and gyoza fried dumplings. For the past 8 years, the Kagetsu Arashi Ramen chain has been serving a special “No pork, no chicken, no

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

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SAKURA Everyone loves Hanami

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A

Photo: View over the city from Peace Pagoda, Mt Futaba-yama.

In the middle of March, as winter is loosening its grip, people start paying attention to the ends of the branches of the still leafless cherry trees that line Hiroshima’s rivers and roads. As the buds swell from green to pink, everyone, from old ladies to young punks, start getting excited about the cherry blossom season.

how to TIPS hanami

BASHO-TORI People often claim the best spots early in the morning, so if you plan to hit a popular spot with more than a few people you might want to follow suit. Blue sheets are ubiquitous, but any sheet wrought in plastic works like it has a force field around it. Pro tip: Show proper respect for the blue sheet and remove your shoes before stepping on it.

LAYER UP You can get some beautiful sunny days during hanami season, but it gets pretty chilly in the late afternoon and after dark.

SE A SO N

wh e n hiros hima comes aliv e

L

TREAT YOURSELF Cheap convenience store bento lunches are all very well, but hanami is only once a year, so why not splash out on a nice “hanami bento” from a “depa-chika” in the basement of a department store or from local favorite Musashi? If you are still struggling to appreciate the Japanese bento, pick up a selection of bread, cheese and cold cuts and perhaps a bottle of nice wine.

No one will mind!

Sake anterns are hung and food stalls

is often central to the experience - so

start to pop up at the top hanami

an extended hanami season can be

spots which have the most cherry

hard on the liver.

trees and are spectacular around

the mankai full bloom stage. Ostensibly, hanami

If it is peace and quiet you are looking for, pack

is an opportunity to admire nature's beauty and

a lunch and seek out one of the many riverside

contemplate its impermanence, but the most

clumps of trees too small to be designated as

popular places can become cramped and, as the

a “spot”. Or, alternatively, head for the hills in

sake starts to flow, get quite rowdy. You do see

search of wild yama-zakura.

people sitting quietly enjoying their bento boxed

There’s nothing better with which to toast the blooms than Japan’s national tipple. Don’t waste your money on the cheapest, high quality local jizake brews are reasonably priced and will impress your neighbors.

TRASH BAGS One of the uglier sides of hanami season is the huge amount of trash that gets left behind in parks and on riversides.

Don’t contribute to the problem; take your trash away with you

lunches, but drinking copious amounts of alcohol

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/12

TO P 5 S P O T S Peace Park

Shukkei-en Garden

Hijiyama Park

Unlikely to be a big party, but this centrally located Japanese garden has many varieties of cherry blossom in an array of shades of pink. Cherry blossom season is a popular place for couples to have their wedding photos taken in traditional dress. They also light up the sakura after dark The bank of the Motoyasu River which, flows alongside Peace Memorial Park, is a very popular hanami spot. Things can get pretty lively here, but it’s always worth being mindful of where you are.

Combine a day of blossom appreciation and snacking at the food stalls with a visit to the Contemporary Art Museum (manga library too). Explore the winding park trails and enjoy city views. There is a playground and a climbing area for kids.

Hakushima Kuken-cho

Hiroshima Castle

cher r y b l o s so m ushita par k night time hanami

o shib a par k

A little way outside the city center, but the blossoms are gorgeous. Great for large groups and families. The adventurous might like to climb over Futaba-yama, taking in the blossoms at the Peace pagoda on the way.

The castle may be a reconstruction, but it still provides a beautiful Japanesque backdrop to any hanami picnic.

Relaxing along the waterfilled moat under the cherry blossoms can’t be beat.

s uper mar ket mitaki templ e f utab ayama hakus hima kuken-cho

r yuo par k

chuo par k

hir o shima cas tl e

s hukkeien gar d en

Missed the city center blossoms?

Japan Mint

Haji Dam peace par k

hij iyama par k higashi send a par k

Not a place to picnic, but the grounds of the Hiroshima branch of the Japan Mint in Itsukaichi burst with the colors of some 56 varieties of cherry blossom. The grounds open to the public for a week or so when the blooms are at their best, usually from the middle of April.

The lake at Haji Dam, up in Yachiyo, is about an hour by car from the city center. At a higher elevation, the 6000 or so cherry trees tend to bloom later than in the city and can sometimes hang on until Golden Week. Even if you miss them, it’s still a great place to visit in spring. eb a yama par k

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There are few experiences in Japan more beautiful than being surrounded by cherry blossom petals dancing on a soft breeze.

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/14

sUgoi!

To really impress (or freak out) your Japanese friends, sit quietly in the middle of your blue sheet with your eyes closed and when you feel all the eyes of your party on you, recite the following tanka by 12th century poet Saigo. “negawaku wa, “Hopefully, may I die

tr ac k th e b los soms

Sapporo

TBC

The “Cherry Blossom Front” makes its way up from Japan’s southern islands. Forecasts, calculated according to the Arrhenius equation, are watched carefully. Bento boxed lunch companies are particularly attentive. For them the ideal season is one that peaks around the end of the first week of April, once everyone has settled into the new work and school year which starts April 1.

Niigata http://sakura.weathermap.jp [ja]

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3/26 3/31

4/5

4/15 4/10 4/5 3/31

3/25

3/25

haru shinan In the month of "Kisaragi"

3/20

sono kisaragino Around the time of the full

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4/20

4/10

hana no moto nite Under cherry blossoms in spring,

mochi zuki no koro” moon.”

4/25

4/20

4/10 4/15

Osaka Fukuoka

4/25

3/20

Nagoya

3/24

Tokyo

3/25

As of 2/21

Sendai

4/12

City of

Water

Hiroshima, on a delta with six rivers fanning into the Seto Inland Sea, often describes itself as a City of Water. The potential of its riversides has, until recently, been largely overlooked. The banks are now, however, coming to life; impromptu BBQ parties are common and every year more outdoor cafes pop up.

On a sunny day, Caffe Ponte’s terrace, Kanawa’s oyster boat or a patch of grass next to the Motoyasu River are all perfect places in which to decompress after a visit to the Peace Museum or to simply while away some time.

Cafes with outdoor and indoor seating along the Kyobashi Riverside, between Hiroshima Station and the city center, provide a nice break on a walk in or out of the city.

The riverbanks, just north of Peace Memorial Park provide a rare opportunity (in Japan) to experience the feeling of real grass between your toes as pleasure crafts of various shapes and sizes and people on stand up paddle boards cruise by.

Down by the gateway to the Inland Sea, you can find trendy cafes in Ujina where you can lounge horizontal, Hawaiian themed dining overlooking Kannon Marina, and visionary architecture surrounded by green grass at the art recycling facility in Yoshijima.

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/16

Spring Festivals

T

he Hiroshima Flower Festival dates

If they are not off somewhere for the extended

from 1977 and, attracting over one

holiday many local people will head into the city

and a half million people every

center for at least a few hours over the course

year, is one Japan’s biggest Golden

of the event, but you are unlikely to hear them

Week events. In spite of this, it is the festival that

raving about it.

Hiroshima folk are most ambivalent about.

That said, the Flower Festival does have a happy For 3 days a good stretch of Peace Boulevard is

atmosphere - coinciding as it does with a long

closed to traffic and taken over by parades, stalls

holiday and some of the first really warm days

and stages. Every year a handful of domestic sing-

of the year - and you’ll find people of all ages

ers, musicians, pop groups and comedians that

and all walks of life on Peace Boulevard. So, if

range from reasonably well known to superstar

you find yourself in Hiroshima city during Golden

appear on the main stages. Most of the other

Week it is worth braving the crowds and seek-

performances tend to be amateurs, community

ing out something fun, interesting, or just plain

and school groups presided over by local MCs.

bizarre.

Festival focus hiroshima Flower Festival 5/3-5/5

TIPS • Most of the big hotels along Peace Boulevard open the restrooms in their lobbies to the public.

• Day 3 is parade free, which means that the 100m wide Peace Boulevard is open to pedestrians and feels far less crowded than day 1 and 2.

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F l o wer Fes t i va l S c h e d u le

MAY 5

|| Pedestrian access to most of Peace Boulevard

|| Kinsai Yosakoi dance parade A stream of amateur dance groups, colorfully costumed and brightly made up, make their way along Peace Boulevard stopping to dance periodically in front of large crowds.

MAY 3

|| International performance, Carnation Stage

|| Yosakoi performances, Carnation Stage

|| Opening ceremony 12pm

|| Kagura, Carnation Stage A great springtime opportunity to see these entertaining regional folk dances, which feature whirling heroes and demons battling to the death to frenetic drum beats, under the stars.

|| Yosakoi final, Carnation Stage

The official schedule had not been released at the time of going to print.

This is based on previous years and liable to change.

|| Flower Festival Parade || Main guest on the Carnation Stage || Skate World skate park, bands & DJs The alternative Flower Festival right behind the main stage.

MAY 4

|| Skate World skate park, bands & DJs

|| Flower Candle Matsuri View Peace Memorial Park from a different perspective, illuminated by hundreds of candles. If you won’t be here for the August commemorations, take this opportunity to pay your respects by creating and displaying your own candle.

|| Flower Candle Matsuri

Routine Block Party © AG

F l o w er C a nd l e Matsuri Ge tH i ro s h im a F lo w e r F e sti va l Hi gh li ght s ~~ Night kagura on the main Carnation Stage after dark on day 1. ~~ The makeshift skate park with DJs, rock, funk and reggae bands playing on the back of a truck beside the Motoyasu River. ~~ The international and regional food stalls - there always seems to be a party in front of the Okinawan stall! ~~ Spotting that year’s most popular inflatable that all the kids are demanding.

It’s amazing how quickly the streets empty after the sun sets, but don’t miss the beautiful candle display that illuminates the Peace Memorial Park, which creates a more contemplative atmosphere. If you are not going to be in Hiroshima on August 6th, it is a perfect opportunity to reflect and pay your respects.

~~ The craft beer tent. ~~ The local Hiroshima sake tent. ~~ Little ad hoc bars that spring up in front of shops on the streets that lead to Peace Boulevard. ~~ The Routine clothing boutique block party. ~~ Colorful costumes, huge flags, pounding music and energetic yosakoi dance groups on the final day make for great photographs.

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/18

Other Festivals KIYOMORI FESTIVAL / 3/20 - 12PM

Miyajima pays tribute to the the 12th century samurai clan leader Taira no Kiyomori, the man responsible for Itsukushima Shrine’s stunning design, with a Heian period costume parade that makes its way from the ferry terminal, through Itsukushima Shrine and ends at Kiyomori Shrine.

Place: Miyajima

FIREWALKING AT DAISHOIN / 4/15 - 11AM

Photo © JudHiroshima

Arrive early to get a good view of this biannual rite in the precinct of beautiful Daisho-in Temple on Miyajima. Members of the public are also welcome to tread the ashes.

Place: Miyajima, Daisho-in Temple

KINTAI BRIDGE FESTIVAL / 4/29 The return from the capital Edo of the local lord and his retainers is re-enacted in an elaborate costume parade over Iwakuni’s impressive 5-arched Kintai Bridge. Samurai shooting display, lots of food stalls and a huge flea market make this festival a great way to kick off the Golden Week holidays.

Place: Kintaikyo, Iwakuni

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Photo © JudHiroshima

MITAMA FESTIVAL / 5/23-25

|| 2/22-3/16 Hina Matsuri, Tomonoura || 2/8-3/23 Hina Doll Displays, Takehara historical district || 3/8 Memorial Service For Kitchen Knives - Daishoin Temple, Miyajima || 3/9 Hina-nagashi Otake || 3/21-4/3 Miyajima Hina Meguri || 3/30 10:30-18:00 Momo peach blossom tea ceremony, Shukkeien Garden || 4/4-6 Matsuyama Spring Festival, Matsuyama || 4/6 09:00-15:00 Sakura cherry blossom tea ceremony, Shukkeien Garden || 4/8 Buddha’s birthday festival - memorial service, Daishoin Temple, Miyajima 11:00

The highlight of this 3-day festival to assuage the souls of the war dead enshrined in Gokoku-jinja Shrine which began in 1975 on the occasion of Showa Emperor Hirohito’s 50th birthday is on Saturday night, with a series of dances featuring a hundred “shrine maidens” waving bells and lanterns. You can also see taiko drumming and an unusual form of kagura dance. Children’s sumo is held the following day.

Place: Gokoku-jinja, Hiroshima

|| 4/15 Tokasai Medieval court dance and music, Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima 5pm || 4/16-18 Noh Performances, Miyajima || 4/26-27 Onomichi Port Festival || 4/26-5/6 Satsuki Festival, Exhibition of Daishoin Temple treasures. Calligraphy, mandala and flower arrangements. Daishoin Temple, Miyajima

MATSUYAMA SPRING FESTIVAL / 4/4-6

|| 4/29 Kintai Bridge Festival, Iwakuni || 4/29 Kure Port Fair || 5/3 Awashima Shrine Festival Shinto ceremony dedicated to the patron deity of women, “Awashima-san.”

Awashima Shrine 11:00 || 5/3-4 Takehara Festival, Takehara historical district || 5/3-5 Hiroshima Flower Festival || 5/3-18 Tomonoura Tourism Tai Ami (Traditional Sea beam net-fishing) 90 min boat tour, Tomonoura, Fukuyama.

Monday-Saturday: 13:30, Sundays & Holidays: 10:30, 13:30 Adults ¥3000, Children ¥1500 Reservations: Fukuyama-city Tourist Association 084-926-2649 || 5/5 Baby crying sumo contest, Gokoku-jinja Shrine || 5/10 18:00-20:00 Noh performances at Jodoji Temple, Onomichi, Onomichi Takigino (Onomichi) || 5/17 Sanou Mountain King Festival, Onomichi Held on the first weekend in April when the weather is getting warmer and the cherry blossom is in bloom. Sunday is the best day. A parade of the feudal lord and his warriors starts around 11am at the castle and heads through the city centre, creating a very photogenic spectacle. Costumes from other periods are represented too. Meanwhile, in the castle park, there are entertainments and stalls serving Ehime’s latest ‘B-Class Gourmet’ foods.

Place: Matsuyama

DOWNTOWN SAKE FESTIVAL / MID MAY

|| 5/17-18 Fukuyama Rose Festival, Fukuyama || 5/18 Memorial Service for Empress Suiko Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima 09:00 medieval court dances and music || 5/31 Benten-jima Island Fireworks Festival, Tomonoura || 5/23-25 Mitama Festival, Gokoku-jinja Shrine

An excellent opportunity to try a wide range of Hiroshima’s top quality sake produced by its many small breweries. You can buy a strip of 5 tickets, but most people go for the all you can try refillable sake cup (a nice little souvenir) and the atmosphere gets increasingly lively as the night goes on.

Place: Alice Garden, Hiroshima

|| Late May Shobu “Sweet Flag” Tea Ceremony, Shukkeien Garden || 6/8 Mibu-no-hana-taue Rice Planting Ritual, Kitahiroshima-cho || Mid-June Tea picking ceremony, Shukkei-en Garden Find more about these events and more at www.gethiroshima.com/events

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/20

SPORT

Local Heroes The Hiroshima Toyo Carp

by Tim Buthod

T

Don’t tell the sumo association, but baseball is Japan’s real national sport and Carp fans are some of the country’s most passionate. hink Japanese folk are reserved? A visit to Hiroshima’s ballpark will cure you of that misapprehension. The baseball is OK, but the real appeal of a Hiroshima Carp game is the ebullient and ever optimistic crowd. Whether a baseball fan or not, seeing a game here is an experience you will not soon forget.

From the thousands of fans in red and white team colors, to the brass bands and personalized chants for each player, all culminating in a

traditional release of red jet balloons in the 7th inning stretch, a ballgame in Hiroshima is a three-hour, 360-degree spectacle where you’ll see Japan at its most exuberant.

Though the quality of play is not quite major league level, it isn’t too bad, and the Carp are on an upswing, having reached the postseason in 2013 for the first time since 1991. The Japanese game lends itself to dramatic turns, so there is plenty to keep a seasoned fan entertained. More importantly, fan or not, you can’t help but be swept up in the excitement of the Carp faithful as they cheer on their boys.

21\

Hiroshima ♥ Carp

Practical matters

The love people have in Hiroshima for the Carp and its players stems from the historical ties between the community and the team. Whereas most teams in Japan were established by companies for promotional purposes, the Carp were originally founded and funded by citizens of Hiroshima. Mazda now sponsors the team, but the community spirit remains. The Carp may have struggled in recent years, as richer teams from Tokyo and Osaka have taken advantage of the free agent system to collect the best players, but the team has rebounded in the last few years after drafting some top players, especially pitchers. Last season the Carp made it to the second stage of the Central League playoffs before losing to the powerhouse Yomiuri Giants in Tokyo. Expectations are high this year for the Carp to build on that success and go even further.

Mazda “Zoom-Zoom” Stadium is about 10 minutes’ walk east of Hiroshima Station (south gate), but it’s worth allowing more time because the walk is good fun in itself. Tickets run from ¥1600 up, and it’s usually possible to get cheap seats at the stadium (look for signs saying メインゲート “main gate” or 当日券 “tou-jitsu-ken” on weeknights.

On holidays or before a big game (against the Giants or Tigers, say), you would be well advised to get tickets in advance. The Carp website is all in Japanese and tricky to navigate, so it’s probably easiest to go to the stadium (look for signs saying 正面ゲート “shoumen gate” or 前売り 券 “mae-uri-ken”) or a convenience store. Most convenience stores have an electronic ticket console where you can buy event tickets. Again it’s in Japanese, but if you go at a quiet

time the staff will usually help you out. You use the touch screen to select the date and location of the tickets, and the machine prints a bill which you pay at the register. The store prints and gives you the tickets on the spot for a small service charge.

Spring baseball schedule

Central League Games

4/2 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Yakult Swallows 4/3 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Yakult Swallows 4/4 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Yokohama Baystars 4/5 14:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Yokohama Baystars 4/6 13:30 Hiroshima Carp vs Yokohama Baystars 4/11 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Chunichi Dragons 4/12 14:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Chunichi Dragons 4/13 13:30 Hiroshima Carp vs Chunichi Dragons 4/15 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Hanshin Tigers 4/16 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Hanshin Tigers 4/17 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Hanshin Tigers 4/25 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Yomiuri Giants 4/26 14:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Yomiuri Giants 4/27 13:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Yomiuri Giants

APRIL

MAY

4/1 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Yakult Swallows

5/3 13:30 Hiroshima Carp vs Yokohama Baystars

*all games at Mazda “Zoom Zoom” Stadium unless stated otherwise

Pre-season games MARCH 3/8 Hiroshima Carp vs Yakult Swallows (in Fukuyama) 3/9 14:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Yakult Swallows 3/23 14:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Fukuoka Softbank Hawks

SANFRECCE

Stadium access: Astramline monorail 36min/¥470 from Hondori to Koikekoen-mae (end of the line)

Hiroshima may LOVE the Carp, but two consecutive league championships have made the local soccer team a rival for its affection. Sanfrecce start their 2014 J-league campaign in March, but will also be vying to get through the group stage of the Asian Football Conference Champions League for the first time this spring.

20 minutes by bus from Yokogawa Station Bus Stand #4 (¥360) 25 minutes by bus from Hiroshima Bus Center Stand #4 (¥390)

5/4 13:30 Hiroshima Carp vs Yokohama Baystars 5/5 13:30 Hiroshima Carp vs Yokohama Baystars 5/9 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Chunichi Dragons 5/10 14:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Chunichi Dragons 5/11 13:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Chunichi Dragons

Interleague Series Games 5/25 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Seibu Lions 5/26 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Seibu Lions (in Miyoshi) 5/27 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Seibu Lions [Back up game in the event of a prior game being cancelled due to bad weather.]

5/28 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Chiba Lotte Marines 5/29 18:00 Hiroshima Carp vs Chiba Lotte Marines

Sanfrecce Hiroshima Home Game Spring Schedule Asian Football Conference Champions League 3/19 Sanfrecce Hiroshima vs FC Seoul 4/23 Sanfrecce Hiroshima vs Central Coast Mariners

J League Division 1 Sanfrecce’s home ground is the 50,000 seater Edion Stadium some way out of town. It is rarely anywhere near full, but pick a weekend on a nice day and you’ll find a good, friendly and testosterone free atmosphere. Advance tickets start at ¥2000 for adults and ¥500 for kids and can be had at convenience stores or the team’s offical shop on the 8th floor of the Edion “Honkan” electronics store in downtown Hiroshima.

What’s in a name?

San is three in Japanese and frecce arrow in Italian. The international amalgam refers to a local legend referenced in Akira Kurosawa’s samurai epic Ran. Local warlord Motonari Mori is said to have demonstrated the power of unity to his three sons by showing how individual arrows are easily snapped, but when three are combined they can withstand any pressure.

3/8 Sanfrecce Hiroshima vs Kawasaki Frontale 3/29 Sanfrecce Hiroshima vs Tokushima Vortis 4/12 Sanfrecce Hiroshima vs FC Tokyo 4/26 Sanfrecce Hiroshima vs Kashima Antlers 5/6 Sanfrecce Hiroshima Yokohama F Marinos Postponed until July if either team makes it into the quarter finals of the Asian Champions League.

5/10 Sanfrecce Hiroshima vs Shimizu S Pulse (if either team makes it into the quarter finals of the Asian Champions League, this game will be on 5/9)

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/22

Y ou h a v e n' t d o ne h iro sh im a if you h a v e n' t d o ne

Hiroshima Okonomiyaki!

O

konomiyaki, a savory pancake cooked on an iron hotplate, containing egg, chopped vegetables,

meat and/or seafood is found all over Japan.

In Hiroshima, this dish is beefed up by adding noodles and lots of veggies. Rather than mixing all the ingredients together, as in the more common Kansai or Osaka style, here in Hiroshima

is likely to be at the top of any Japanese tourist’s list of things to do in Hiroshima.

While it is fun to mix up your ingredients and cook them on your own hot plate, which is possible at many restaurants serving Kansai style okonomiyaki, here in Hiroshima, the cooking is the preserve of the professional chef, and watching the process right before your eyes is like watching a live cooking show.

they are layered. The whole thing is topped with a savory-sweet sauce.

Where to eat

Locals are very proud of their contribution to Japanese cuisine, and regional rivalry, while good natured, is strong.

Be prepared to be quizzed about whether you prefer your okonomiyaki Hiroshima or Kansai style. Sitting shoulder to shoulder at the counter of a small okonomiyaki joint, especially if you give the local lingo a try, is one of the best places for the outsider to connect with Hiroshima folk.

Okonomiyaki is often described as “Japanese pizza”. The name literally means “cook it how you like it”, and you select toppings to add to the standard ingredients to create your personal favorite version of the dish. That’s where the analogy ends however, as the finished dish, while round and flat(ish), tastes nothing like pizza. Sometimes described as Hiroshima’s “soul food”, okonomiyaki began to be widely eaten in the years during and after the war when rice was in short supply, and people added extra ingredients to simple wheat pancakes and street stalls selling okonomiyaki sprang up all over the city. Today, there are said to be about 2000 okonomiyaki shops, and a visit to at least one of them

O F T H TO P E TO P PI 1.

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With so many places to choose from, where is one to start?

Micchan is probably the most famous, and there are several “Micchan” shops in the city center run by various branches of the family. They often have lines of customers outside waiting for their turn at the grill, which is generally a good sign. Very popular with domestic and oversees tourists is Okonomi-mura (Okonomi Village) which houses 27 little stalls on 3 floors. Okonomiyaki-kyowakyoku Hiroshimamura (Okonomiyaki Republic) has another 6, and Ekimae Hiroshima Okonomi-hiroba (on the south side of Hiroshima Station) has 13 more. This is just the tip of the okonomi iceberg, however. A fun way to make your choice is to leave it up to serendipity and ask a local. Every Hiroshima-ite has their own favorite and most will view it as a matter of pride to share them with newcomers.

How to order All Hiroshima okonomiyaki starts with the basic niku-tama, consisting of pork, eggs, cabbage between two thin crepes.

Your first choice is which kind of noodles to add - thin soba noodles or thicker udon noodles. State your preference by asking for “niku-tama-soba” or “niku-tama-udon”. If you are really hungry you can opt for a double helping of noodles.

Next, choose any additional “toppings”. These are as likely to go inside as they are to go on top and usually include extra green negi onions, seafood, mochi rice cake, cheese, korean kimchee, shiso perilla leaf, natto and, sometimes, even jalapeno peppers. In winter, it is also common to see local oysters offered as a topping.

Vegetarians While the eggs rule it out for vegans, at first glance okonomiyaki appears to be promising option for hungry vegetarians. Chef’s are generally happy to leave out the pork slices if you ask for niku-nashi (without meat), but most places do use lard and a kind of grease that includes pork stock. Shaved dried fish flakes or dried squid pieces are also likely to find their way into your meal. Strict vegetarians should head to Nagataya next at the very end of the Hondori shopping arcade near to the A-bomb Dome; here they have a good appreciation of vegetarianism and are happy to accommodate vegetarian customers.

How to eat Okonomiyaki is traditionally eaten hot (very hot) off the teppan grill with a metal spatula (hera). The inexperienced diner who takes up the challenge may find their okonomiyaki is dried to a crisp by the time they are finished. It is by no means rude to ask for a small plate and chopsticks; try for a laugh by saying nekojita nanode o-sara to o-hashi o kudasai (I have a cat’s tongue, so please give me a plate and chopsticks).

It isn’t necessarily a problem to linger at the counter and have some drinks, but be aware of your surroundings. If it is busy and people are waiting to eat, you will be expected to vacate your seats soon after you are done eating.

Aonori (dried seaweed)

Okonomiyaki sauce

Eggs

Soba or udon noodles

A walk on the wild “sides” Sliced pork

Most okonomiyaki shops will have a range of side dishes that can be whipped up on the teppan. You can play it safe and go for something like asparagus wrapped in bacon (bekon no aspara maki), or go for something a little more adventurous.

Kaki Oysters Uni horen Sea urchin grilled with spinach Shirako Fish sperm Horumon-yaki Grilled beef or pork offal Takowasa Chopped raw octopus marinated in wasabi Ika no Shiokara Fermented salty raw squid meat and guts (great with sake or shochu) Ika-natto Slimy natto fermented soy beans with raw egg and squid topped with green onions and wasabi

Bean sprouts

Negi green onions

Ichiriki Sister and brother team cooking up tasty okonomiyaki with a touch of garlic. Let them know if you are on a big date night.

Tempura crisps

11:30-14:00, 17:30-22:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-233-0181 map p.31 26

Nagataya Great Okonomiyaki and plenty of space to sit, a stone’s throw away from peace park.

Chopped cabbage

Mon-Fri 11:00-20:30 (L.O.), Sat 11:00-21:00 (L.O.), Sun, hols 10:30-20:30 082-247-0787 map p. 29 [A-3] 30

Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki Affable, soccer-loving okonomiyaki-ist serving Hiroshima’s favorite dish and drinks near Hiroshima Station 11:30-14:30, 17:00-23:00 Closed Saturdays 082-236-7303 map p.30 [D-3] 33

This is a pretty standard okonomiyaki, but most shops will have their own recipe with different ingredients and combinations.

Dried fish powder

Batter

Kampai!

H

Haruhiko’s Spring Picks

iroshima is one of Japan’s top sake producers and its local breweries collect a good number of prizes every year. People often get nervous at the mention of sake, but, as with wine, the variety in both taste and quality is huge and well worth exploring.

There are around 60 sake breweries round Hiroshima prefecture, many of them small

artisanal breweries making limited batches of premium sake largely by hand. The price of high quality sake isn’t usually much more than that of a reasonable bottle of wine, so there is no reason to stick to the really cheap stuff. Limited supply also means that very little leaves the shores of Japan, making a visit to Hiroshima an excellent opportunity to sample sake that overseas connoisseurs can only dream of.

Here, Haruhiko Oyama, whose family has been in the sake business for over a century, runs the excellent Yamato-ya sake, wine and liquor store, introduces us to the world of Hiroshima sake. Things can get quite cerebral when talking about sake, but as any brewer will tell you, the best way to find the perfect brew for you, is not to think, but to drink!

Yamatoya’s guide to Hiroshima sake The Hiroshima region is one that is bounded by the mountains and the sea. To the south is the Seto Inland Sea and it’s mild climate, while the Chugoku mountains in the north receive chillier weather. This environmental range is reflected in the great variety of Hiroshima’s sake; Sweet to dry, crisp to full bodied.

Sake brewers have traditionally created sake that complements the foods available in the local area. Thus, on the Inland Sea coast brewers tend to produce sake with a gentle nose and clean finish that goes well with local fish and seafood. Likewise, sake made in the mountains tend to be richer with more umami that complement the stronger tastes of preserved foods characteristic of those areas.

25\

Houken (宝剣), located to the west of Hiroshima in the coastal town of Nigata, produces a fresh tasting junmai sake made with Hiroshima Hattan-nishiki rice that perfectly complements seafood and fish. This sake is eagerly awaited each year, and this year’s is as good as ever. Catch it while you can! 1800ml ¥2625, 720ml ¥1312.

Rice is, of course, a key ingredient in sake production, and Hiroshima is known as the producer of varieties well suited to sake production such as Hattan-nishiki and Senbon-nishiki. Just as wine made with different grapes has different flavors, it is fun to compare the flavor profiles of sake made with different kinds of rice.

We have an expression, “Where you find no good water, you’ll find no good sake” (Meisui naki tokoro ni ryoushu nashi) and the water used in sake production (shikomi mizu) is just as important as the rice. Hiroshima is truly blessed with great water and it is the key to the region’s prestige as a center for high quality sake. Breweries often offer tastes of their shikomi mizu and I highly recommend trying it along with their sake when on a brewery tour.

by Haruhiko Oyama / Yamato-ya translation by Paul Walsh

For the fuller taste of the mountains, try Shinrai (神雷) from the highlands of Jinseki Kougen, north of Fukuyama city, where sake has been produced for 300 years. Shinrai’s Blue Label Tokubetsu Junmai is made with Senbon-nishiki rice and goes well with meat and mountain vegetables such as mushrooms and the like. 1800ml ¥2600, 720ml ¥1350.

To purchase these and many, many more varieties of sake from Hiroshima and beyond, visit Yamato-ya. The staff don’t speak a lot of English, but they really pull out the stops to help you find something special. Also check GetHiroshima.com for news of their semi-regular sake and wine tastings. Map p.29 [C-3] 7

Pullout Guide A PEACE MEMORIAL PARK

B CITY CENTER MAP

C TOKAICHI NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE D NIGHTLIFE DISTRICT MAP E LOCAL TRANSPORT GUIDE HIROSHIMA

←Iwakuni

UJINA

←Kyushu

NINOSHIMA

Takehara→ Onomichi→ Osaka→

KURE

MIYAJIMA ETAJIMA

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/26

A PEACE PARK

Aioi-

Aioib

dori

ashi

/ De

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i Genbaku Dome-mae

Honkawa Elementery School Peace Museum

HONKAWACHO

A-Bomb Dome

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Peace Clock Tower

Ky u-o ta

ga

Memorial Tower to the Mobilized Students

a(

Peace Bell A-Bomb Memorial Mound

Hypocenter Shima Hospital (A-bomb Disaster Marker)

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HONKAWACHO PARK

Peace Stone Lantern

The Figure of the Merciful Goddess nk aw a-b of Peace (Kannon) as hi

Children's Monument in Memory Peace Monument of the Korean Victims of the A-bomb Peace Fountain A-bombed Gravestone

Ho

Zucchini 25 4 Laff Hair Design hi

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asu otoy

M

30 Nagataya 3

Artcafe ELK

Caffe Ponte

Rest House (Hiroshima City Tourist Association)

Nakajima District (A-bomb Disaster Marker)

34 OTEMACHI

Tsukiakari

Hiroshima Monument for the A-bomb Victims

Flame of Peace Pond of Peace

Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims

Cenotaph for the A-bomb Victims

Monument of the A-bombed teachers and students of National Elementary Schools

Heiw

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Phoenix Trees exposed to the A-bomb

12 Kemby’s Fountain of Prayer

Statue of Peace “New Leaves”

a-do

Friendship Monument

PARK SIDE HOTEL

Motoyasugawa

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum

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Peace "Watch" Tower

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A-bomb monument of the Hiroshima Municipal Girls High School

ashi

29 Kanawa Oyster Boat

List of places CULTURE

19 20 21

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

A-Bomb Dome - Map B [A-3] Children’s museum - Map B [A-2] Cinetwin Hondori - Map B [B-3] Former Bank of Japan - Map B [B-3] Gallery G - Map B [C-2] Hatchoza - Map B [C-3] Hiroshima City International House - Map B [E-3] Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art Map B [D-4] Hiroshima City Tourist Information - Map B [A-3] Hiroshima International Center - Map B [B-4] Hiroshima Museum of Art - Map B [B-2] Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum - Map B [A-3] Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum - Map B [C-2] International Exchange Lounge - Map B [A-3] Salon Cinema 1/2 - Map B [B-4] Shimizu Gekijo - Map B [E-3] Shukkeien Garden - Map B [C-2]

22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

2 3

6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

RESTAUR ANT & CAFES

18 19 20 21

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Appreciate - Map C Bistro 45 - Map B [B-3] Caffe Ponte - Map B [A-3] Cafe Cinnamon - Map C Chamonix Mont Blanc - Map B [C-3] Chelsea Cafe - Map B [F-2] Cusco Cafe - Map B [C-2] Graffity Mexican Diner - Map B [B-3] Kanak - Map B [B-3] Namaste Danbara - Map B [E-4] Namaste Hiroshima Station - Map B [E-2] Organ-za - Map C Otis! - Map B [A-4] Pimiento - Map B [C-3] Pinkerton’s souk - Map B [C-2] Porta Porte - Map B [B-3] Ristorante Al Mandolino - Map B [B-3] RIVA - Map B [C-3]

2 3 4 5

Cleo Hair International - Map B [B-2] Cleo Hair International (Hatchobori) - Map B [C-3] Green Arena Gym & Pool - Map B [A-2] Laff Hair Design - Map B [A-3] Roots - Map B [B-4]

INTERNE T

1

Global Lounge - Map B [B-3]

R AMEN

2

5

Comfort Hotel Hiroshima - Map B [B-4] Comfort Hotel Hiroshima Otemachi - Map B [A-4] Dormy Inn - Map B [B-4] Hana Hostel - Map B [E-3] Hotel Flex - Map B [D-2] Ikawa Ryokan - Map C J-Hoppers Hiroshima - Map C K’s House - Map B [D-3] Reino Inn Peace Park Hiroshima - Map B [A-4] Sejour Fujita Hotel - Map C Washington Hotel - Map B [C-3]

1

1

4 1

HE ALTH & BE AUT Y

NIGHTLIFE

1

ACCOMODATION

Roopali - Map B [E-2] Shanti Vegan Cafe - Map B [C-3] Sprout - Map B [A-2] Tinto - Map B [B-3] Warung Matahari - Map B [B-4] Wordsworth- Map B [C-3] Zucchini: bar and cucina - Map B [A-3] Ichiriki - Map C Kanawa ASSE - Map B [E-2] Kanawa Kaki Meian - Map B [E-2] Kanawa Oyster Boat - Map B [A-4] Nagataya - Map B [A-3] Plus Minus - Map B [C-4] Robatayaki Jindaiko - Map B [C-3] Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki - Map B [D-3] Tsukiakari - Map B [A-3]

22 23 24 25 26

45bis “Awa“ - Map B [B-3] A.M. - Map B [C-4] Barcos - Map B [C-4] Bar Edge - Map B [C-4] Bar Swallowtail (Yagenbori) - Map B [C-3] Bon Voyage - Map B [C-4] Cafe Spice - Map B [C-3] Centre Point - Map B [C-3] Chinatown - Map B [C-3] Cloud5 - Map B [C-3] Enjoint Bar Cover - Map B [C-4] Kemby’s - Map B [A-3] Koba - Map B [B-3] Lime Cay - Map B [C-3] Log - Map C Lotus - Map B [B-3] Mac - Map B [C-3] Mambos - Map B [C-4] Molly Malone’s - Map B [C-3] Mugen ∞ 5610 - Map B [C-3] New King - Map B [C-4] Roxis - Map B [C-3] Sacred Spirits (Cafe Jamaica) - Map B [B-3] Southern Cross - Map B [B-3] The Shack Bar and Grill - Map B [B-3] Tropical Bar Revolution - Map B [C-3]

SHOPPING

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Green Coffee - Map B [E-4] Hanawine - Map B [C-2] IACE Travel - Map B [B-3] Little Twitter - Map B [B-3] Outsider Book Nook / Global Lounge - Map B [B-3] Travel With - Map B [C-3] Yamatoya - Map B [C-3]

3 4

King-ken - Map B [A-4] Sanghai Souhonten - Map B [C-2] Takobouzu - Map B [D-3] Yakiniku Nishisandai - Map C

COFFEE AND BOOKS

1 2 3 4 5 6

Maruzen - Map B [C-3] Junkudo / Roman Cafe Jr - Map B [D-2] Academy Books - Map B [B-3] St Marc Cafe - Map B [C-3] Kinokuniya / Cafe Posh First - Map B [B-2] nice nonsense books - Map C

EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS

• Police 110 • Fire and Ambulance 119 • 24 Hour Hiroshima Hospital Information in English Freedial 0120-169912 • 24h Emergency pediatric hospital (Funairi Byoin) 082-232-6195 • Multilingual Interpreting Service (Trio-phone) 082-247-9715 09:00-19:00 (April-September) 09:00-18:00 (October-March) • TELL English counseling service 03-5774-0992 (09:00-23:00) • Resident Consultation & Interpreting Service 082-241-5010 • Immigration Information Center 0570-013-904 • Human Rights Counseling Center for Foreign Citizens 082-228-5792

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

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GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

10

DANBARAYAMASAKI

/30

C TOKAICHI Kerala Shokudo

Honkawa - Tokaichi - Dobashi

Mitsuboshi Yatai Despite the fact that the area between the Honkawa River, that runs down the western edge of Peace Memorial Park, and the tram line that joins the Tokaichi and Dobashi streetcar stops is only a few hundred meters from Hiroshima’s city center- it has a distinctly laid back and somewhat rough and ready shitamachi downtown atmosphere. Rents tend to be lower here and places run by young, trendy and sometimes bohemian owners rub shoulders with old school coffee shops, eateries and bars. We’ve picked out a few places to start with, but don’t be afraid to be adventurous - just don’t forget to pack your phrasebook!

Babaji Nobuishi

Kizunaya

Aioi-dori / Densha-dori Ride Diner

Tokaichi-machi

Watchtower

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Photo © Hirofoto

D NAGAREKAWA Hiroshima After Dark

Hiroshima has its fair share of hip cafes, hole in the wall drinking dens, “live houses” with fistfuls of bands every night, and bars popular with mixed international and local crowds. It also has a small, but passionate underground club scene. You won’t find big trendy clubs like in Tokyo and Osaka, but the music on offer is diverse and you can stumble upon some fun parties. Everything is pretty close together, so you can channel the funds you save on cab fares into having a great time. Best of all, in bar and club spaces as intimate as they are in Hiroshima, you have to work pretty hard not to meet people.

Although there are fun places dotted all around the city, most nightlife is concentrated in and around the Nagarekawa “entertainment district”. The largest in western Japan, Nagarekawa’s maze of narrow streets is packed with buildings, stacked with floors that are, in turn, packed with tiny bars. It can be overwhelming, so use our recommendations as a starting point and see where the night takes you.

Kanayama-cho

Aioi-dori / Densha-dori

Tate-machi

Ebisu-cho

1 Maruzen MITSUKOSHI

FUKUYA

3

Kinzagai-dori

24

Sacred Spirits

Ebisu Shrine

Ebisu-dori

Ebisu-dori

5 Chamonix Mont Blanc 32 Robatayaki Jindaiko

KIRIN BEER

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Washington Hotel 11 DON QUIJOTTE

14

18

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Koba 13

Chuo-dori Sera Bekkan Hotel

RIVA

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8 Center Point

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Cloud 5 10

Roxis 22 Barcos 3 18 Mambos

Sejour Inn Nagarekawa

New King 21

20 Shanti Vegan Cafe

BILLY THE KID

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PARCO HONKAN

The Shack Bar and Grill

SHINTENCHI PARK

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Chinatown

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PARCO SHINKAN

6 Travel With

FUKUROMACHI PARK

Blue Wave Inn

St Marc Cafe 4

25

Hotel PAO

Wordsworth

Academy Books

23

24 7 Yamatoya

LABI

Southern Cross

HIROSHIMA BANK

MOMIJI BANK

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

Heiwa-o-dori / Peace Blvd / Hyaku meter-

doro

/32

E GETTING AROUND

Streetcar lines Hiroden Line #1 (Hiroshima Station > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #2 (Hiroshima Station > Miyajima-guchi) Hiroden Line #3 (Hiroden Nishi Hiroshima > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #5 (Hiroshima Station > Hijiyama-shita > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #6 (Hiroshima Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #7 (Yokogawa Station > Hiroden Honsha mae) Hiroden Line #8 (Yokogawa Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #9 (Hatchobori > Hakushima) Astram Line (Hondori > Koikikoenmae)

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Transport Museum

Tomochuo Ozuka

¥180~470

Big Arch Stadium

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JR Ferry and Matsudai Ferry to Miyajima

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Hidden Miyajima:

Yogai-zan

Mt Yogai is one of our favorite places on Miyajima. The small hill that overlooks Miyajima’s ferry terminal has a quiet park in which you’ll find simple Imase Shrine and some picnic tables shaded by large cherry trees. Despite its historical significance, you will always find more deer up here than people - even during cherry blossom season when the blooms are lovely.

Mt Yogai was the site of Miyao Castle, a decoy fort built by the great warlord Motonari Mori during the tumultuous warring states period. Motonari Mori used the purposely poorly defended fort to lure his rival, Harutaka Sue, into a vulnerable position as a precursor to the Battle of Itsukushima in 1555. This was the only battle to ever take place on the island and much blood was spilt. Extensive purification rites had to be performed after the battle and the victory established the Mori clan domination of western Japan. Sitting quietly looking out over the water it is easy to imagine the Sue men, unaware of the coming attack, doing the same all those years ago.

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/34

AcroSs ThE Water Matsuyama on Shikoku Words / Photos by Rod Walters

Matsuyama on Shikoku is easily accessible by ferry, and it’s a city with a very different atmosphere from Hiroshima.

Matsuyama Castle is the most obvious attraction. It sits on a wooded mountain right in the middle of the city.

Built in 1603, it’s one of the prettiest castles in Japan, with fantastic views over the city and the surrounding mountains.

Inside, there are interesting architectural exhibits, and displays of armour. The expansive grounds within the moat are the venue for festivals and events throughout the year—the Omikoshi Sōneri in autumn features the distinctive omikoshi and danjiri from various parts of Ehime. In spring, the top of the mountain is pink with cherry blossoms, which form a backdrop to the feudal costume parade.

Dogo Onsen is the oldest hot spring in Japan, with a recorded history of over 1,000 years. The current Honkan building was built in 1894 in the Meiji period, making this year its 120th anniversary. This delightfully complex structure is said to be the inspiration for the bathhouse of the gods in the Miyazaki animation Spirited Away. Entering the historic baths and taking a dip is a fascinating experience.

But the water’s notoriously hot, so after a couple of minutes’ immersion you may feel a bit spirited away yourself.

To mark the anniversary of the present Honkan building, Matsuyama is holding the year-long Dogo Onsen Art festival. One room in each of ten hotels and ryokan has been given over to renowned artists from Japan and overseas to decorate as they please. The Yayoi Kusama and Nobuyoshi Araki rooms are likely to be popular with visitors from overseas. You can book a room for the night, or sit and imbibe tea during the day. Throughout the year, starting from April, there will be shadowgraphs and other entertainments in the Dogo area.

Shikoku is known as a holdout of Japanese tradition, and as Shikoku’s biggest city, Matsuyama is the ideal place to enjoy a bit of old Japan. Here, people need little excuse to dress up in kimono or yukata, and there are several establishments that are happy to initiate foreign visitors into the joys of traditional costume. Geisha entertainment is still a popular pastime, and prices are reasonable for a couple of hours of tea and charming games. If geisha aren’t your cup of tea, there are plenty of other stylish cafés to explore around Dogo and the castle.

Author’s Profile: Rod Walters has spent more than half his life in Japan.

He’s an inbound tourism consultant with Knowledge Travel Partners. He offers custom and package tours through ShikokuTours.com.

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Dogo Onsen

Matsuyama Castle

Dogo Onsen

Geishas

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/36

Ramen I

t’s hardly news that Japanese cuisine has devised a number of dishes that inspire fanatic devotion. Visitors may be surprised, though, to find that one of the abiding Japanese food passions is ramen, a dish that may (or may not) be Chinese in origin, and that in many places is still associated with cheap

Words / Photos by Matthew Mangham

blocks of dried, starchy noodles. Forget the starvation rations of your student days, though. Real ramen routinely gives rise to partisan shouting matches and the kind of glassy-eyed foodie who puts people to sleep with his recitations of the seemingly infinite variety of soups, toppings and noodles.

Hiroshima is no exception. You’ll see ramen signs everywhere you look. The difficulty for the traveler is deciding which of the hundreds of counters to visit, and so we’ve put together a short list of some popular choices in and around the city center, as well as suggestions for tsukemen and shirunashi tantanmen, two diverging branches on the family tree.

YAKINIKU NISHISANDAI 2-6-11 Sakai-machi, Naka-ku Map p.31 4 tel: 082-291-3296 hours: 17:00 to 23:30, closed first and third Monday Located in the Sakaimachi neighborhood west of Peace Park, the first thing you’ll notice about Nishisandai is that it’s uncharacteristically attractive for a place adored by ramen aficionados. The restaurant is primarily devoted to grilled meat and vegetables, which you cook yourself over a tabletop flame while the master keeps watch, calling out gruffly if anything is burning. The meat is excellent, dipped in the master’s own sauce and eaten hot from the fire. There are plenty of familiar items on hand, but if you’re feeling brave, here’s your chance to try tongue or the chewy beef offal called horumon. Delicious! If you decide to go this route, allow 3-5000¥ for each person, and don’t forget to try the beef tendon stew (530¥). It’s easiest to tell them what you want to spend and ask for recommendations ( “osusume kudasai ”).

But for 600¥ they serve a classic bowl of ramen. Pale noodles drift in a clear, simple shoyu broth, an old-school assari style soup. Dressed with beansprouts and slices of the braised, lightly seasoned pork called chashu, this ramen is about clean flavors and the texture of the noodles, an able foil for the heavier tastes of the grill. It’s not an uncommon style, but it’s becoming rare to find it done this well. Younger ramenheads have gone chasing bolder flavors, thicker soups, and an ever-expanding menu of toppings. But it all started with a bowl like this one.

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TAKOBOUZU 8-6 Kyobashi-cho, Minami-ku Map p.30 3 TEL: 082-261-664 8 Hours: 11:15 to 14:00, 17:30-23:00, holidays when he feels the need No English, but a ver y friendly master, accustomed to ser ving travelers from around the world who stay at the nearby hostel.

Walking into this place, once you’ve found it, you’re in more familiar ramen territory. Takobouzu looks as though little has changed, or been replaced, since the master first fired up the stoves 36 years ago. It’s a personal favorite.

Takobouzu means The Bald Octopus. Before opening, a priest was consulted to help work out a name for the new shop.

After some back and forth, a light came into the priest’s eyes and he said, “Why not call it the Bald Octopus?” Oddly enough (you do have to wonder if booze wasn’t in the mix somewhere) the master agreed. And here we are. The shop is long and narrow, with heaped boxes and assorted junk at the rear that make it an adventure reaching the tiny toilet.

There are no tables, only a row of stools along the battered tin counter. It’s not much to look at. But the kitchen is clean, the atmosphere is just right, and we’re not here for the scenery anyway. The ramen is excellent.

The ramen (650¥) starts with a tonkotsu shoyu broth, made by simmering pork bones and fat, thinned with a little chicken stock and blended in your bowl from two large pots. It’s not heavy, but more complex than the soup at Nishisandai. The master studied kampo, traditional Chinese herbalism, and says his broth has been doctored to be

‘warming’ to the body. You can feel it, a ghostly presence of spice deep beneath the other flavors that creeps into your bones on a chilly day. The noodles are very good, made to exacting standards especially for the shop, toothsome without being tough. Ask if he has his own homemade noodles, too. He doesn’t advertise them, but sometimes has flat, Canton-style noodles (850¥) that he makes himself, and they’re wonderful. The mabodofu, a rich, spice-laden tofu dish, is also terrific here (650¥). Accompany them with a beer and maybe a side dish of crisply fried senjigara, or pork stomach (450¥), and you’re guaranteed to walk out happier than you came in.

SHANGHAI SOUHONTEN

K ARABU TSUKEMEN

KING-KEN

4-14 Hatchobori, Naka-ku, across from Cusco Café, a five minute walk nor th of Fukuya. Map p 29 2 TEL: 082-221- 0537 Hours: 10:30 -21:00 Monday through Friday, 10:3020:00 Saturday Closed Sundays and national holidays

8-13, Kakomachi, Naka-ku TEL: 082-24 4- 0888 Hours: 11:00-15:00 / 17:00- 0:00, irregular holidays

3-14, 3-chome, Otemachi, Naka-ku, Map p.29 1 TEL: 082-249-3646 Hours: 11:00-15:00, 17:00-20:00 Monday through Friday 11:00-15:00 Saturday & National Holidays), closed Sundays

A word of warning: Shanghai Souhonten is not for the fussy or faint of heart. For forty years squealing schoolgirls have been driven to the far side of the street by the sheer impact of the odors billowing from the shop’s steam vents.

This little shop is a good choice for anyone visiting the Peace Memorial Museum. Just a five minute walk south of Peace Park, across from Astel Plaza, Karabu is one of a small chain of restaurants serving tsukemen, a dish which has become a local favorite in recent years.

When you push open the door the first impression is of grime. Decades of oily smoke have blackened the walls and ceiling, and only the counters and a few scattered tabletops are kept clean. The scent of the tonkotsu (pork bone) soup hangs heavy, and if you wear glasses, they’ll fog over momentarily. Best not to make any sudden moves until your vision clears.

Tsukemen is terrific. There seems to be some foodie controversy over where the dish originated, but whatever the true story is, many Hiroshima locals are comfortable laying claim to tsukemen as a local specialty. If you haven’t tried it, it’s a plate of noodles without soup, covered with vegetables, usually cabbage, sliced green onion and steamed bean sprouts and slices of chashu pork. On the side, you’re given a bowl of fiery, deep red dipping sauce that tastes strongly of chilies and sesame. I’ve been to a few different places, and never yet met a plate of noodles I didn’t like.

Tantanmen is another ramen cousin, a Japanese take on Sichuan dan dan noodles. The original version is served in a soup that can be blisteringly spicy, but a shiru-nashi, or no-soup version has become popular, and that’s what you’ll find at King-ken. There are a couple of locations in town, but the easiest for travelers to find is on the street running between the river and Denshadori (the main north-south streetcar line) south from Peace Boulevard, which serves as the southern boundary of Peace Park. Look for the Sunroute Hotel on Peace Boulevard and head south from the main entrance.

The only trick here is that you’ll be ordering from a ticket machine by the door. Put money in the machine, press the buttons for your selections, then take the paper tickets that are dispensed and hand them to the staff behind the counter. They’ll help if you ask, but if you want to go it alone the top row of buttons, marked 1 to 4, is for the noodles (580¥). 1 is the least spicy, 4 the most. I recommend asking the staff for a poached egg, or onsen-tamago (50¥), and rice (100¥) on the side. For another 250¥, they’ll add celery and green onion.

This shop is attractive but small, with a low counter set beneath the windows facing the street and a short wraparound counter looking into the kitchen. It shouldn’t be difficult getting in unless you arrive with a large group.

The menu is posted above the cash register. They do ramen, gyoza dumplings, fried rice, beer and oden, which consists of boiled eggs, fish cake, slices of daikon radish and other suspicious bits simmered in a soy-flavored broth. I won’t say anything about their oden; I took one look at the evil, black liquid in the vat and shrank back, invoking the name of God. I take a seat and order the chashu ramen (750¥) and dumplings (400¥), then glance around at my fellow diners.

They hang silent over their bowls, avoiding eye contact. Dark panels overhead show dense, clustered rows of Chinese characters, and a chubby, leering caricature races along the wall at full tilt bearing a steaming bowl of noodles. My own bowl arrives. I watch it warily while I eat my dumplings.

They’re good.

I throw a little black pepper over it and dive in. The broth is rich and dark, tonkotsu heavily sauced with soy. Substantial, but still a soup rather than the gravy-thick, buttery mess served in some places. A whisper of garlic? The noodles, slightly thick, take on the broth without turning to paste.

The pork is rough, as if it has been sawn rather than sliced.

It’s all strangely satisfying. A few beansprouts and fragrant shreds of menma (fermented bamboo shoot) round it out.

Karabu’s staff struck me as somewhat indifferent to the prospect of customers on the day I went, but the tsukemen itself (from 550¥) was a notch above average, mainly because of the noodles, dense and chewy and flavorful enough to go head to head with the sauce. You order the dipping sauce on a scale running from zero to thirty, though if you decide you want to crank up the heat there’s a pot of spice on the counter. There’s a self-service water cooler by the door if, for some unfathomable reason, you choose to forgo the cold beer that tsukemen cries out for. The sauce may end up in places it doesn’t belong, which is why you’ll see a box of tissues. Not an ideal lunch choice if you’re wearing white. Otherwise, dig in and enjoy.

This stuff is fantastic. True to the name, there’s no soup in the bowl, but there is a spicy sauce topped with noodles and ground pork. Instructions on the counter tell you to stir the noodles into the sauce at least thirty times, until no visible liquid remains. If you’ve ordered the egg, swirl the noodles in it and take your first bite. One of the characteristic flavors of the dish is sanshou, which is the Japanese version of Sichuan pepper. If you’ve never had this before, the sensation may be startling. It’s not spicy in the usual sense, but causes an odd tingling in the tongue and lips that has been described as similar to touching your tongue to the terminals of a battery, or a small shot of Novocain, which seems unfair until you learn it was once used as a remedy for toothache. If you like it and want more, there’s a shaker full of the stuff, marked with a large S, on the counter. If you prefer conventional spice, you’ll also find sliced red pepper.

No reason, of course, that you have to limit yourself to one or the other. Subtlety isn’t the point here.

When you’re done with the noodles, throw the rice and any remaining egg in the bowl, stir to coat with the lingering sauce, and finish your meal. Wonderful. A beautiful little lunch that has only taken twenty minutes out of your day.

Now get back out there!

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

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G

goto izumi's deep hiroshima

by Goto Izumi

translation by Paul Walsh

vol.

1

uidebooks never give you

Let me introduce myself, dear readers of English.

In this first edition, let me take you on a tour of

the info you really want -

I am Goto Izumi. A musician that plays accordion,

my avant garde home base, only 5 minutes across

you know, the really good

promotes live music, performances and shows. I

the river from the A-bomb Dome. Hiroshima

stuff. It’s hardly surprising,

am also the humble proprietor of an off the wall

Castle > A-bomb Dome > Organ-za. An essential

I guess. People who know this stuff are few to

gathering space. I have taken it upon myself to

stop on any cultural tour of the city!

start with, and more often than not, they’d rather

introduce you to the really good stuff. You won’t

keep it to themselves. So, dear reader, you are in

find high class, sophisticated, 5 star Michelin

luck! The GetHiroshima Mag is packed with really

whatevers here. What you will get, however, is

good stuff - the kind of info you don’t get in your

my Hiroshima. Real Hiroshima, straight from the

average guidebook. Yes, my friend you are very

underground.

lucky indeed!!

The really good stuff. IT’S A SMALL WORLD!!!!

Welc ome t o G o t o I z um i Head quar t er s ! ! !

1st ground floor Tokaichi Apartment (11:30-23:00) Cafe & Bar Smoke-free Lunches served right through until 5pm and we have some funky seating options you won’t find anywhere else. We invite you to relax in the loft - do make sure to have a go at bumping your head on your way up!

Our most popular dish, by the way, is “Dessert With A Face”.

a va il a bl e * Fre e Wif i i s ce s. A sk ou r in a ll th e sp a s swor d! st a ff fo r th e pa Goto Izumi http://gotoizumi.net International performance artist. Goto Izumi promotes avant garde events, is the owner of Organ-za, works in radio, as an MC and also makes films. Her greatest love, however, is discovering underground culture that tickles her fancy.

Organ-za（ヲルガン座）1-4-32 Tokaichi-cho, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi / 082-295-1553 http://www.organ-za.com / organzainfo@gmail.com

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2nd Floor Organ-za (17:30-26:00) Cafe & Restaurant Bar Smoking OK This is the heart of the building, open until 2am. With all kinds of weird bits and bobs around the place, just walking through the door is a bit of an adventure. Choose from our many seating options as suits your mood. Here you can catch some “unique” shows that you are unlikely to see anywhere else, so be sure to check the schedule. Our website is only in Japanese, so I recommend you drop me an email to find out what’s going on. There are also some pretty unique characters among our regulars!

3rd Floor France-za Free Space Smoke-free or Smoking Ok depending on the event This intimate space is used for everything from private parties to shows by some of Japan’s top underground musicians. I also open up the bar occasionally. Ask me about any “special” events we might have.

4th Floor Haikyo Abandoned Gallery Smoking OK Enjoy the work of independent artists, free of charge.

Completely unchanged since the landlord lived here, it’s a bit like being on the set of a horror movie. Entry is prohibited outside of exhibitions, but if you’d like special access, please speak to our staff. We do, however, advise against visits in the dead of night, as we hear some very strange sounds coming from up there…

Why not join me, Goto Izumi, in exploring authentic Hiroshima culture!

It’s where you’ll find the best of Hiroshima!!

Let’s enjoy deep Hiroshima!!!

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/40

EVENTS INTERNATIONAL FAMILY EASTER EGG HUNT

ORCHID FESTIVAL

f April 20

LIVE MUSIC OSLO PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTR A

f March 1-9 09:00-16:30

f March 14 19:00-21:30

f Hiroshima City Botanical Gardens

f Ueno Gakuen Hall

¥6000~12,000 Students ¥4,000

ST PATRICK’S DAY PART Y

POLYSICS

f March 17

Live music, drink deals and green clothes at Molly Malones.

ILLUMINATED SAKUR A CHERRY BLOSSOMS f March 28-April 5

f Senda Park

f March 27 19:00 (18:30 open)

Join local families in a fun park - all welcome. www.facebook.com/groups/HiroshimaInternationalFamilies/

f Namiki Junction

SK ATE WORLD

f May 13, 19:00

f May 3-May 5

f Aster Plaza

f Right behind the main Carnation Stage, between the

¥9300/¥8300

Peace Museum and the Motoyasu River A DIY mini skate park and bands and DJs playing on a truck,

f Shukkei-en Garden

BRIAN SETZER ORCHESTR A

Open until 20:00 Sunday - Monday-Thursday and until 21:00 Friday-Sunday. Admission until 30min before closing.

FLEA MARKETS SENDA WASSHOI FLEA MARKET

f April 5, 6, 12, 13

f March 9 & 23, April 13 & 27, May 11 & 25

f Hiroshima City Botanical Gardens

OTAGAWA RIVER FLEA MARKET

16:30-21:00. Admission until 30min before closing.

f March 8 & 9, April 12 & 13, May 10 & 11

YOGA PE ACE

08:00-15:00

f April 26-29 Photo © AG

Skate World is a delightfully incongruous oasis of anarchy within the well scripted and squeaky clean Flower Festival

SHIMANAMI ANTIQUE MARKET, ONOMICHI f March 8 & 9, April 12 & 13, May 10 & 11

MIYA JIMA TRIATHLON

MOTO-UJINA-GUCHI FLE A MARKET

f June 29

f March 15 & 16, April 19 & 20, May 17 & 18

2.5km Swim, 55km Bike, 20km Run

09:00-15:00

SAK A SUNDAY MARKET

Photo © hiroshima yoga peace

f March 16, April 20, May 18

Four days of yoga practice and seminars on the sacred island of Miyajima. http://www.hiroshima-yogapeace.com/ [ja]

KINTAI-K YO BRIDGE FESTIVAL FLEA MARKET

CONNECT: SAIJO SAKE BREWERY ARTS FESTIVAL f March 16-23 11:00-16:30

Hiroshima based artists decamp to sake brewing center Saijo in Higashi-hiroshima City to meld art with music in some atmospheric brewery spaces.

Free admission www.art-connect.me/ [ja] www.facebook.com/connect.moc/

The “Hatsukaichi Traverse Miyajima Power Triathlon Woodman” (phew!) has the most spectacular race start in Japan - from beneath the floating torii gate on Miyajima. The bike and run take you up into the mountains to also make it one of the toughest. http://www.cci201.or.jp/ta/top.htm f April 29, Iwakuni

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FARMER’S MARKETS HIROSHIMA MINATO MARCHÉ

Support DJs: Satoshi(PMC), Acchan, Mycoplasma, Sasaki Adv ¥2500 (w/1drink) Door ¥3500 (w/1drink)

EUR ASIAN SUITE f every 4th Thursday f Bar Edge

f March 2 & 16, April 6 & 20, May 4 & 18

[ENJOINT ]

09:00- 15:00 f Hiroshima Port, Ujina

f May 4

COMPACT

f Sacred Spirits (Cafe Jamaica)

f every 3rd Wednesday

Guest DJ Masashi Osaku, ¥2000 (w/1drink)

f Bar Edge

ROUTINE 12 ANNIVERSARY PART Y

ULTR A HAZE

f May 4, 22:00

f every 2d Sunday

f Mugen 5610 (Gorudo)

f Bar Edge

HATSUK A-NO-ICHI MARKET f March 20, April 20, May 20 08:30-10:30

HIKING There are many hiking trails within easy reach of the city center. Why not join the friendly GANSU International Hiking Group on one of their monthly outings. http://hirosanfromhiroshima.wordpress.com/ [en] f 3/2 Mt. Yasumi-yama (Kure) & Japanese Apricot Blossoms f Early Apr Hiking in/around Hiroshima City & Hanami party f Late Apr Mt. Mado (Saiki Ward, Hiroshima City) f Late May Kuroboya Valley (Fukutomi Town, Higashi-Hiroshima City)

CLUBBING

Exporter of Norwegian space disco Prins Thomas and strong line up of local DJs lead the celebrations of ROUTINE’s 12 years in the business of helping Hiroshima’s menfolk look their best.

FROIDE f every 3rd Friday f Enjoint Bar Cover

THE CLUB ROCKS f every 3rd Friday f Bar Edge

NEW WORLD f every 4th Friday f Sacred Spirits (Cafe Jamaica)

SOUL FOOD f every last Thursday

Special Guest DJ: Prins Thomas Support DJs: SLEEPY EYE, SHIMOMURA, SATOSHI, ABU Adv: ¥3500, Door: ¥4500 http://soundcloud.com/prinsthomas http://www.routine-net.com/

f Centre Point

[MODIF Y #3]

SURGE&COA JAZZTRONIC MIX CD RELE ASE TOUR

RED BULL NIGHT

f March 29, 22:00

f May 31

f Bon Voyage

MANTLE f March 1 f Border

Tattoo & music event, Adv: ¥1000 Door: ¥2000

f Sacred Spirits (Cafe Jamaica)

IN DA DINING f every last Friday f Lotus (March / April) - Bar Edge (May)

f every last Saturday

MID NIGHT TAMASHI

Adv: ¥3,000 W/1D (Limited to 200) Guest DJ: Y.Sunahara / Techno

f every 2nd Thursday f Bar Edge

GOOD TIMES

¥1500 / All genre

f March 29, 23:00 f Bar Edge

IZMICAL

¥1500 (w/1drink) Reggae, Hip Hop, R&B, Dancehall & Bass

f every 4th Friday f Bar Edge

WEST WOOD PARK

Eclectic dance

f April 4 f Enjoint Bar Cover (Techno)

f Mugen 5610 (gorudo)

DEADSTOCK f March 14, May 9

f April 13

¥2000 (plus one ¥500 drink order) www.soundcloud.com/jazztronik/

DUBWAY

f Mugen 5610 (gorudo)

HONDUB Jah Love Is Sweeter Sound System Selectors and live shows, Adv: ¥1500 Door: ¥2000

REGULAR NIGHTS CR AZ Y SE X Y COOL

f Enjoint Bar Cover

Bass Music

COA f March 28, May 23

f every Thursday

f Enjoint Bar Cover

f Club G

House, garage

f Enjoint Bar Cover

E ASY SK ANKING

CAPSULE

House, Techno, Trance

f every 2nd Tuesday

f every 3rd friday

f Centre Point

f Sea Cake Style

f April 28

DUBWISER

f Sacred Spirits (Cafe Jamaica)

f every 2nd Wednesday

Go to gethiroshima.com/events for more details about these and many more events.

Guest: DJ SURGEON, Live: CRZKNY (Techno)

f Agit

RE:SORT f April 25

DEPTH

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/42

CINEMA

h i ros h i m a C it y C i n e m a

by Benjamin Soar

I n d e p e n d e n ts Local company Johakyu is taking on the multiplexes and bucking worldwide trends by opening independent cinemas in the heart of the city center.

HATCHOZA Beautifully refurbished cinema, slap bang in the city center at the top of Fukuya department store, that makes going to the movies special again. Hatchoza has 2 screens; The larger can host 3D films and seats 170 people, the smaller seats 70. There’s a cafe-bar in the foyer offering beer, wine and snacks okay to take into the theatre.

There aren’t any children’s films here, making Hatchoza perfect for adults. Amazingly luxurious seats - armchairs with loads of legroom - and gorgeous decor, make a visit to Hatchoza feel more like going to the opera, not just a film. The toilet labels are in beautiful (hard to read) Kanji characters - just remember, red for women and black for the men.

CINETWIN HONDORI Smaller cinema in a basement just off Hondori. Shows independent films usually about 5 years after they’ve been released overseas. Lovely seats again, but the screen is about half the size of Hatchoza screen 1.

SALON CINEMA

Hatchoza Cinema

There are two screens and comfortable armchair style seats at this cinema, located about a 10 minute walk from Peace Park. A nice feature at Salon and Cinetwin is that you can take in your own snacks and drinks.

Discounts ← FOR ALL Hatchoza, Salon and Cinetwin theaters Films starting after 18:00 ¥1000 Mens Day Monday ¥1000 (for men) Ladies Day Friday ¥1000 (for women) First of the month ¥1000 Couples Day is on the 22nd of every month ¥2000 (for any two people going in together)

C i n e p h i l es c h e c k!

THE CINEMATOGRAPHIC AND AUDIOVISUAL LIBRARY

TIPS

Local 広島人 tip

Johakyu’s monthly booklet “Endmark” has schedules and news about upcoming films.

It’s all in Japanese, but there are pictures and English titles. Pay for subscription, or pick one up around town in shop & dept store free flyer areas. Show it when you buy your ticket to get ¥300 off tickets (up to 3 tickets).

Mu lti p l e xes WALD 11 CINEMAS

The Cinematographic and Audio-Visual Library is a treasure trove of classic Japanese cinema. All in Japanese, but only ¥100 for 90 min of viewing.

Regular screenings of Japanese and international film classics for ¥500.

U ltr a- i n d i e YOKOGAWA CINEMA Seldom-seen art films, documentaries and occasional live music events on a narrow side street near Yokogawa Station. Yokogawa Cinema is a bit run down and English language films a rarity, but worth keeping an eye on our listings.

Standard multiplex located in the Aeon Shopping Mall in Fuchu. Overpriced snacks and they don’t allow free seating- choose your seat when buying a ticket. Quality sound and large screens, including several 3D screens.

The “Daddy” here is theater number 10, which seats 402 people. The mall is a short walk from Tenjingawa JR Station, or take a free shuttle bus from the shinkansen side of Hiroshima Station.

Discounts Late shows (after 20:30) ¥1200 First of every month ¥1000 Ladies Day every Wednesday ¥1000 Couples Day 22nd of every month ¥2000 a couple

Hatchoza Cinema

AEON CINEMA (FORMERLY WARNER MYCAL CINEMAS) On the 6th floor of a department store, 15 minutes walk from Peace Park, through Hijiyama Tunnel. Shows mostly Japanese films, 6 small theatres and 1 giant one.

Discounts Ladies day- Mondays ¥1000 Couples day- Wednesdays 2 people for ¥2000

43\

Hatchoza Cinema

HOTORI NO SAKUKO (AU REVOIR L’ETÉ) ほとりの朔子

THE HOBBIT: THE DESOLATION OF SMAUG

LA VIE D’ADÈLE

JEUNE ET JOLIE

アデル、ブルーは熱い色

17歳

ホビット 竜に奪われた王国

CAPTAIN AMERICA: THE WINTER SOLDIER キャプテン・アメリカ／ウィン ター・ソルジャー

f Salon Cinema f Salon Cinema

f Cinetwin Hondori, Wald 11

f March

Dir: François Ozon Cast: Marine Vacth, Charlotte Rampling, Géraldine Pailhas, and Frédéric Pierrot France, 2013 Drama, 94 min, R18+ French, German with Japanese subtitles

f March 1~

f Wald 11, AEON Cinema

f April 5~

Dir: Koji Fukada Cast: Fumi Nikaido, Mayu Tsuruta, Makiko Watanabe, Kanji Furutachi, Kiki Sugino, Taiga Japan, 2013 Drama, 125 min Japanese with English subtitles

f February 28~

Dir: Abdellatif Kechiche Cast: Léa Seydoux, Adèle Exarchopoulos, Salim Kechiouche France, Belgium, Spain, 2013 Drama, 179 min, R18+ French and English with Japanese subtitles

DALLAS BUYER’S CLUB

LUDWIG II

Dir: Peter Jackson Cast: Ian McKellen, Martin Freeman, Richard Armitage US, 2013 Adventure, fantasy, 161 min, PG-13 English with Japanese subtitles

ルードヴィッヒ

ダラス・バイヤーズクラブ

THE SECRET LIFE OF FILTH WALTER MITTY フィルス 『LIFE!』

f Wald 11 f April 19~

Dir: Anthony Russo, Joe Russo Cast: Chris Evans, Frank Grillo, Sebastian Stan US, 2014 Action adventure, 128 min English with Japanese subtitles

THE AMAZING SPIDERMAN 2 アメイジング・スパイダー マン2

f Salon Cinema

f Salon Cinema

f Wald 11, AEON Cinema

f Salon Cinema

f March 1~

f March 1~

f March 19~

f March

Dir: Jean-Marc Vallée Cast: Matthew McConaughey, Jennifer Garner, Jared Leto US, 2013 Biographical drama, 117 min, R English with Japanese subtitles

Dir: Marie Noelle, Peter Sehr Cast: Sabin Tambrea, Sebastian Schipper, Paula Beer Germany, 2012 Biographical drama, 130 min, G German with Japanese subtitles

Dir: Ben Stiller Cast: Ben Stiller, Kristen Wiig, Jon Daly US, 2013 Drama, 130 min, PG English with Japanese subtitles

Dir: Jon S. Baird Cast: Imogen Poots, James McAvoy, Joanne Froggatt, Jamie Bell, Jim Broadbent UK, 2013 Comedy, crime, 137 min, R18+ English with Japanese subtitles

NEBRASKA

PHILOMENA

SAVING MR BANKS

ネブラスカ ふたつの心をつ なぐ旅

あなたを抱きしめる日まで

ウォルト・ディズニーの約束

THE WORLD’S END ワールズ・エンド 酔っぱらい が世界を救う

f Wald 11, AEON Cinema f April 25~

Dir: Marc Webb Cast: Andrew Garfield, Emma Stone, Jamie Foxx US, 2014 Action adventure English with Japanese subtitles

BLUE JASMINE ブルージャスミン

f Cinetwin Hondori

f Cinetwin Hondori

f Wald 11

f February 28~

f March 15~

f March 21~

f Salon Cinema

Dir: Alexander Payne Cast: Bruce Dern, Will Forte, Bob Odenkirk, Stacy Keach, June Squibb US, 2014 Drama, 115 min, R English and Spanish with Japanese subtitles

Dir: Stephen Frears Cast: Judi Dench, Steve Coogan, Sophie Kennedy Clark, Mare Winningham UK, 2013 Comedy-drama, 98 min, PG-13 English with Japanese subtitles

Dir: John Lee Hancock Cast: Emma Thompson, Tom Hanks, Annie Rose Buckley US, 2013 Drama, 130 min, PG-13 English with Japanese subtitles

f April 12~

Here are some of the films showing in Hiroshima this spring.

Dir: Edgar Wright Cast: Simon Pegg, Nick Frost, Martin Freeman UK, 2013 Sci-fi comedy, 109 min, R18+ English with Japanese subtitles

f Cinetwin Hondori f May 10~

Dir: Woody Allen Cast: Cate Blanchett, Alec Baldwin, Peter Sarsgaard US, 2013 Comedy drama, 98 min, PG-13 English with Japanese subtitles

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/44

Kid’s Page

Further afield

Family Friendly Hiroshima

Hiroshima Castle

Hijiyama Park

Young children are much loved in Japan and kids can provide great opportunities for connecting with locals and Hiroshima offers plenty of fun for those with little ones in tow.

We’ve yet to meet a kid who doesn’t get excited by a castle, even if it is reconstructed. Try on a samurai helmet, peruse the museum, enjoy running around the grounds looking for turtles and koi in the moat. Adjacent Gokoku Shrine is interesting to walk through on the way to the outer walls with their sama shooting-spying holes.

Hiroshima Museum of Contemporary Art (HMOCA) has interesting sculptures surrounding the main building and throughout the hill park. The Manga (comic) Library has a modest section of English manga among their large collection. Wander the winding paths, good city views and playgrounds. The Skywalk escalator is pretty cool too (and conveniently drops you in front of a donut shop).

City Center While the center of Peace Memorial Park demands a more solemn demeanor, it’s fine for kids to run about in the greener parts of the park and along the riverbanks. North of the park, the grassy riverbanks widen. “Hanover Park” is to the right, which is a concrete space popular with local skateboard and BMXers. The Children’s Science Museum is highly interactive, fun & free of charge. Don’t miss the old steam locomotive next door.

Transportation Museum Adult transportation buffs will appreciate the models inside and kids will enjoy the interactive activities and crazy bikes out back. 25 min ride on the Astram (monorail) Line ¥390 (sit behind the driver for best view). Admission ¥500/¥170 (kids) + ¥200 to ride bicycles.

Toy Stores and Game Centers

Asa Zoo

Neverland 6F of the Edion electronics store (near Kamiyacho Nishi streetcar stop). Small play area, with lego , fun (and weird) gacha-gacha machines.

We have reservations about recommending zoos, but our kids have always enjoyed walking around this one. Quite spread out so it takes a few hours to see everything. Petting zoo, a playground and big grassy areas to enjoy too. 50 minutes by bus from Hiroshima Station (#9 in front of the South Exit) Admission ¥500/¥170 (kids)

Round 1 Multi-story game center with video games, puri-kura print club booths, karaoke, batting cages & more upper floors.

Kid-o-Kid (Bournlund) 6F Pacela shopping center.

Pay-as-you-go indoor play area for 6 months to 12 years.

Also room to run around on an outdoor terrace with a nice view of the castle.

Central Hiroshima has a lot of small public parks but the play facilities tend to be a little uninspiring. That said a few minutes on a slide or a swing set can bring fun and relief to parents and children. Look for the monkey icon on the map for playgrounds.

Peace City Scavenger Hunt Can you find all ten?!

Find a gacha-gacha machine 20pts (find a toy poo for a bonus 50pts / golden poo toy + 1,000pts!!)

A singer or musician performing along the riverside or under a bridge (good acoustics?)

- 20pts Samurai mask with a moustache in the castle - 20pts

45\

“Peace” written in 10 or more languages - 20pts Turtles (check the castle moat or in Shukkei-en garden) 10pts each Koi (carp) fish- 10pts each (golden or black koi + 50pts each) Wheely-treats: food cart vendors - 20pts each

Miyajima The island is a lot of fun for kids. Pet the deer, shell hunt on the beach, dress up like a samurai, enjoy the new aquarium, hike or cable car up Mt.Misen as well as the traditional sights.

Stamp rally station - 10pts each River Taxi, sightseeing boat, ferry or water craft - 10pts each Momiji-manju (maple leaf shaped cakes) - 10pts each

TOTAL:

kanak Delicious, healthy, additive-free Indian food right next to Peace Park. Excellent lunch sets. Indian pub-style atmosphere at night with many a la carte dishes to choose from as well as curry meals.

• • • • • •

Curry lunch sets from ¥790 Free refills of rice/nan at lunch Vegetarian & Halal food A la carte Kids sets ¥500 Party room available

Lunch 11:00-15:00 (L.O. 14:30) Dinner 17:00-22:30 (L.O. 22:00) 082-236-7308 Map p.29 [B-3] 9

Koba Rock loving BOM is one of Hiroshima’s most welcoming and entertaining bartenders. He whips up some very tasty food in his tiny kitchen too.

Read more about BOM in our Hiroshima People profile on page 55.

Organ-za

Food, drinks and music in our favorite avant guard hang out. Check proprietor Goto Izumi’s “Deep Hiroshima” on pages 39-40 for a tour of the cafe, mini-theater space and abandoned gallery that she also runs in the same Tokaichi building.

18:00-01:30 (L.O.) Closed Wednesdays 082-249-6556 map p. 29 [B-3] 13

Tue-Fri 17:30-01:30 (L.O.), Sat 11:30-01:30 (L.O.) Sun 11:30-23:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-295-1553 map p.31 12

Washington Hotel Yamatoya

Hospitality, amenity and security right in the heart of Hiroshima.

Make some top quality local sake your Hiroshima souvenir!

Read more about Hiroshima sake and see Oyama-san’s spring picks on page 25. www.piconet.co.jp/yamatoya/ 09:00-22:00 Closed Sundays 082-241-5660 map p.29 [C-3]

● All

rooms equipped with great bathrooms and separate lavatory. ● WiFi in all rooms. http://washington-hotels.jp/hiroshima/ 7

082-553-2222 map p. 29 [C-3] 11

Artcafe ELK 2nd floor cafe near Peace Park with good sandwich lunches, drinks, vegetarian menu. International exchange spot.

09:00-21:00 082-247-4443 map p. 27

Sakaimachi Baru Friendly little stand bar with reasonable wines and tasty tapas style food, just over the Honkawa Bridge from Peace Park.

18:00-24:00 Closed Sun, hols 082-233-0322 map p.31

MANCHESTER UNITED SOCCER SCHOOLS

Camps throughout Japan in 2014!

See our website for more information: http://japan.manutdsoccerschools.com

Appreciate

Caffe Ponte

Classy cafe with open terraces.

Live jazz every Thursday night (no cover).

Quality Italian dining at the picturesque edge of Peace Park.

11:30-24:00 Closed Tuesdays 082-532-5015 map p.31 1

Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00 Sat, Sun & hols 08:00-22:00 070-5679-9134 map p. 29 [A-3] 3

Cafe Cinnamon

Chamonix Mont Blanc

Closed Tues. Charming little blue cafe worth seeking out for great food and drinks.

Venerable kissaten since 1955, now with a British connection.

11:30-15:00, 18:00-22:00 Closed Tuesdays 082- 942-3424 map p.31 4

08:00-24:00 082-241-2726 map p. 29 [C-3] 5

Chelsea Cafe

Graffity Mexican Diner

Comfortable cafe serving bargain lunches on weekdays. Lively restaurant-bar in the evenings.

Owner is a whiskey enthusiast.

Homemade Mexican and US style foods in this family run-diner.

Mon-Fri 11:30-14:00, 17:00-03:00, Sat-Sun 17:00-03:00

082-236-6977 map p.30 [F-2] 6

11:30-13:20, 18:00-24:00 (L.O. 23:00) 082-243-3669 map p. 29 [B-3] 8

Namaste

Otis!

Hiroshima Station

Delicious Indian, Himalayan and vegetarian dishes on the 6th floor of the Hiroshima Station building.

Eclectic and ethnic music. Tex Mex, vegetarian, vegan and gluten free dishes available.

11:00-15:00, 17:00-22:00 (L.O.) 082-568-0045 map p.30 [E-2] 11

Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30 (L.O.) , Sun, hols 16:00-22:30 (L.O.) 082-249-3885 map p. 29 [A-4] 13

Pimiento

Pinkerton’s Souk

Spanish tapas and Italian dishes.

Friendly casual atmosphere.

Central location on Noborimachi park.

Cozy tea house with an Indian/SE Asian theme-amazing cakes and pies.

17:00-23:00 Closed Sun, hols 082-227-5880 map p. 29 [C-3] 14

Tues-Fri 11:00-20:00 (L.O.) Sat, Sun & hols 11:00-19:00 (L.O.) Closed Monday + 2nd and 4th of Sunday 082-227-1970 map p.29 [C-2] 15

Porta Porte

Ristorante Al Mandolino

Authentic Napoli style pizzeria with a view of the park out back.

One of Hiroshima’s original Italian restaurants-friendly, spacious and tasty.

11:00-15:00, 17:00-22:00 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-249-8010 map p. 29 [B-3] 16

11:30-14:00, 17:00-22:00 Closed Mondays 082-504-0435 map p. 29 [B-3] 17

Roopali

Shanti Vegan Cafe

Popular Indian eatery serving good, tasty food in generous portions.

Tasty Vegan food in the city center. Tastes good enough to take a meat eater.

11:00-14:30 (L.O.), 17:00-22:00 (L.O.) 082-264-1333 map p.30 [E-2] 19

11:30-20:30 (L.O.) 082-247-8529 map p. 29 [C-3] 20

Sprout

Tinto

Delicious extensive menu. 5 min walk from peace park. Pasta, pizza, fish, meat and veggie dishes.

Mediterranean dining bar open all day, with some great drink deals.

082-294-2019 map p. 29 [A-2] 21

11:30-24:00 Sun-Thurs, 11:30-01:00 Sat, Sun & hols 082-546-0007 map p.29 [B-3] 22

Warung Matahari

Wordsworth

Excellent Indonesian cuisine prepared by Balinese chef Surasna.

Vegetarians catered for.

Delicious salad, pasta, fish and meat dishes with good wines at reasonable prices.

17:30-22:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-240-2082 map p. 29 [B-4] 23

18:30-02:00 082-241-2433 map p. 29 [C-3] 24

Zucchini:

Plus Minus

bar and cucina

Lively, reasonably-priced tapas restaurant-bar next to Peace Park.

Top quality yaki-niku on 1 F in retro Japanese surroundings, and stylish, modern lounge bar upstairs.

Good range of local sake.

11:30-01:00 (14:30-18:00 Cafe) 082-546-0777 map p. 29 [A-3] 25

17:00-06:00, Bar 19:00-06:00 082-236-8810 map p. 29 [C-4] 31

Robatayaki Jindaiko

Tsukiakari

Long running establishment opposite Ebisu Shrine serving charcoal grilled meat, fish and vegetables.

Japanese style grill. Delicious food in comfortable, natural surroundings.

17:00-23:30 (L.O.) 082-246-4873 map p. 29 [C-3] 32

11:00-24:00, Dinner 17:00-24:00 082-545-7777 map p. 29 [A-3] 34

A.M.

Bar Edge

Relaxed, comfortable and clean bar that caters for the very late night crowd.

Small underground club with a good sound system.

Tue-Sat 20:30-06:00, Sat 20:30-06:00 Sun 20:30-03:00 Closed Mondays 082-249-6677 map p. 29 [C-4] 2

082-248-8146 map p. 29 [C-4] 4

Bar Swallowtail

Bon Voyage

(Yagenbori)

International bar with counter and 2 discount rooms in which to chill. Nice cocktails and some great food too.

Hiroshima’s first backpackers bar welcomes domestic and international travellers.

21:00-06:00 082-246-9266 map p. 29 [C-3] 5

Mon-Thur, Sun 18:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00 082-249-2380 map p. 29 [C-4] 6

Cafe Spice

Centre Point

Relaxed SE Asian atmosphere amid the buzz of Nagarekawa

Susu’s bar: Interesting cocktails, DJ’s spinning at weekends, good source of local nightlife info.

18:00-03:00 082-246-7934 map p. 29 [C-3] 7

Tue-Thur 20:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 20:0005:00, Sun 20:00-01:00 map p. 29 [C-3] 8

Chinatown

Cloud 5

Former “cabaret” venue. Now one of Hiroshima’s biggest club/ event spaces.

Peter’s tiny hang out. Irregular hours, irregular people, conversation guaranteed. Eclectic music and board games.

082-247-5270 map p. 29 [C-3] 9

080-6308-2278 map p. 29 [C-3] 10

Enjoint Bar Cover

Kemby’s

Ton and Succhi pack a lot of fun into this tiny late night DJ bar.

English is limited but communication is rarely a problem here.

Spacious American-style restaurant-bar with pool and darts.

Closed Mondays 082-249-3917 map p. 29 [C-4] 11

082-249-6201 map p. 29 [A-3] 12

Lime Cay

Log

Relax with Reggae and Red Stripe in this chill little bar. Comfy sofas upstairs.

Stylish cafe-bar and gallery space popular with local creative types.

19:00-05:00 Mondays 082-546-1525 map p. 29 [C-3] 14

Weekdays 17:00-late Weekends 14:00late Closed Tuesdays 082-231-7022 map p.31 15

Lotus

Mac

Kick off your shoes and lounge in this hip zashiki style bar.

Awesome JBL sound

Legendary Hiroshima watering hole with massive CD collection.

18:00-late 082-246-1604 map p. 29 [B-3]

16

18:00-late Closed Sundays 082-243-0343 map p. 29 [C-3] 17

Mambos

Molly Malone’s

Fully licensed Latin American dance club.

18:00-01:00 082-246-5809 map p. 29 [C-4] 18

Hiroshima’s authentic Irish pub.

Great beer, great food, great service.

Mon-Thur 17:00-01:00 (L.O.), Fri 17:00-02:00 (L.O.), Sat 11:30-02:30 (L.O.) 082-244-2554 map p.29 [C-3] 19

Mugen

New King

5610(gorudo)

Hiroshima’s biggest dance club space.

Trendy and Pink, 2F bar run by the guys behind local hip men’s underwear boutique.

082-240-7788 map p. 29 [C-3] 20

21:00-05:00 082-247-4487 map p. 29 [C-4] 21

Roxis

Southern Cross

Wine, martinis, tapas and music

Popular ex-pat bar. Room to breathe in a smoke free atmosphere.

20:00-late Closed Mondays 082-247-5755 map p. 29 [C-3] 22

18:00-01:00 082-236-3396 map p. 29 [B-3] 24

The Shack Bar and Grill

Tropical Bar Revolucion

Big bar, big menu, happy hours, pool and darts.

Nobu’s popular 8F hangout, friendly and relaxed complete with balcony.

Sun-Thurs 17:00-01:00, Fri & Sat 17:00-03:00 082-504-4170 map p. 29 [B-3] 25

18:00-03:00~04:00 Closed Sun, hols map p. 29 [C-3] 26

Green coffee

hanawine

Great coffee, roasted on the premises, some fair-trade. Sample cup of coffee available with purchase.

Pleasant little open-fronted wine shop, small counter bar and tasty snacks.

12:00-19:00 Closed Sundays 082-264-7084 map p.30 [E-4] 1

12:00-22:00 082-222-6687 map p. 29 [C-2] 2

IACE Travel

Little Twitter

Competitive prices, regular offers, and English speaking staff make IACE a popular choice for travellers.

Original designs and made to order jewelry and leather creations to fit your style.

082-240-2051 map p. 29 [B-3]

12:00-20:00 082-243-6500 map p. 29 [B-3] 4

3

Outsider Book Nook/ Global Lounge

Travel With

300 English used books to buy or exchange. Average price ¥500

A.G. Tanaka will get you a great deal for your international and domestic travel needs.

Mon-Thur 11:30-21:00, Fri 11:30-23:00 Closed Sun, hols 082-244-8145 map p. 29 [B-3] 5

10:00-20:00 (Sat, Sun, hols until 19:00) Closed Wednesdays 082-544-7718 map p. 29 [C-3] 6

Cleo Hair International

Cleo Hair International

Pamper yourself in this state of the art beauty salon on the 9th floor of the PACELA shopping center.

(Hatchobori)

10:00-20:00 082-511-2470

10:00-20:00 Closed Mondays 082-962-4012 map p. 29 [C-3] 2

High caliber, full-service beauty salon in the design of a stylish New York apartment.

map p. 29 [B-2] 1

Laff Hair Design

Roots

Ippei’s skills and service have made him a huge hit among Hiroshima’s international community.

One-to-one VIP treatment at Kazue’s boutique salon.

Reservations only.

082-504-7636 (English line) map p. 29 [A-3] 4

082-541-0300 map p. 29 [B-4] 5

Comfort Hotel Hiroshima

Comfort Hotel Hiroshima

Reasonably priced downtown

(Otemachi)

business hotel S¥5775/Twin¥8400 From April S ¥6,000~/ Tw ¥8,800~

Business hotel handy for Peace

082-541-5555 map p. 29 [B-4]

082-545-7811 map p. 29 [A-4] 2

1

Park. S¥6500/Twin¥13,000 From April S ¥6,700~/ Tw ¥13,400~

Dormy Inn

Hana Hostel

Great location. Single ¥6000 Double/Twin ¥10,000 (tourist discount)

“Hybrid inn” with knowledgeable staff near the station.

082-240-1177 map p. 29 [B-4] 3

082-263-2980 map p.30 [E-3]

Hotel Flex

Ikawa Ryokan

Stylish riverside hotel, rates include breakfast Singles ¥6825, Doubles ¥11,555~

Japanese and Western rooms. Coin laundry. S¥5775~/ Twin¥9450~/ Tr¥14175~ From April S ¥5,940-/ Twin ¥9,720 / Tr ¥14,580

082-223-1000 map p.30 [D-2]

5

4

082-231-5058 map p.31 6

JHoppers Hiroshima

K’s House

Hiroshima’s first backpacker guesthouse. Beds from ¥2300.

Backpacker hostel 8min walk from Hiroshima Station. Dorms from ¥2500, Japanese style rooms (1-4 people) and ensuite western style rooms (1-3 people) ¥2700-¥5500 per person. Free Wi-Fi.

082-233-1360 map p.31 7

082-568-7244 map p.30 [D-3] 8

Reino Inn (Peace Park Hiroshima)

Sejour Fujita Hotel

Centrally located “Art & Culture” Hotel.

Families and small pets welcome. Dorms ¥2700, singles from ¥3700 (¥2800 per person for 2 ppl), family rooms.

More like staying in an apartment than a hotel. Dorms from ¥3000.

Well-appointed rooms from ¥5040.

Weekly & monthly rates avail.

082-236-7003 map p. 29 [A-4]

082-296-6511 map p.31 10

9

ARTS

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

Hiroshima Museum of Art

Well-designed building in Hijiyama hilltop park. Interesting sculptures and statues are dotted around the outside of the museum that can be viewed for free. Special exhibits and the exhibits from the museum’s own collection displayed on rotation along various themes.

One of the largest art museums in Western Japan with a permanent collection of 4,500 works which include Japanese nihonga painting, traditional Asian art crafts, 1920s and 1930s art, displayed on rotation. Right next to Shukkei-en Garden.

Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso and many more works by great modern European painters on display in this small, but perfectly formed museum, very close to Hiroshima Castle.

Visit on a weekday and you may well have the whole place to yourself.

10:00-17:00 (Open until 19:00 March 26-30 and May 3-6) Admission: Adult ¥360 College students ¥270 High school and seniors ¥170 (Junior high school and younger free) 082-264-1121 http://www.hiroshima-moca.jp/

09:00-17:00 (Open until 19:00 on Fridays until 3/31 and until 20:00 from 4/1 to 11/9) Admission: Adult ¥500 College students ¥300 High school and younger free .

082-221-6246 http://www.hpam.jp/

09:00-17:00 Admission: Adult ¥1000 Seniors ¥500 College & high school students ¥500 Junior high school and elementary school students ¥200 082-223-2530 http://www.hiroshima-museum.jp/

Admission until 30 minutes before closing. Special exhibition charges vary and usually include admission to permanent collections.

Closed Mondays (unless National Holiday when closed the following business day).Hiroshima Museum of Art open everyday during special exhibitions.

Atelier Bow-Wow: Micro Public Space February 15-May 6, Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art, Adult ¥1000, College ¥700, High school & seniors ¥500, Junior high school & younger free

Gallery G

White Limousine Yatai / The Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale, 2003

Private art space opposite the Prefectural Art Museum which holds weekly free exhibitions by local artists, designers and artisans. 082-211-3260

Morikazu Kumagai Exhibition March 8- April 20, Hiroshima Museum of Art, Adult ¥1200 High school ¥900 Junior high & elementary school ¥500

EXHIBITIONS

Morikazu Kumagai “Beans and Ants” 1958 private collection

51\

Exhibition of SEI-SEI-KAI Tradition and Future of the Japanese-style Painting April 17-May 25, Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum Adult ¥800 College & High school ¥500 Junior high & younger free

“Takenawa” MAKI Susumu

Ikuo Hirayama April 8-June 1, Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum Adult ¥1,100, College & Highschool ¥600, Junior High & Primary School ¥400

The 60th Japan Traditional Kogei - Arts & Crafts Exhibition February 26-March 16, Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum Adult ¥700 College & High school ¥400 Junior high & younger free

Box of kanshitsu with design in kinma. “Morning dusk” YABUUCHI Emi

Connect: Music and art in Saijo’s sake breweries March 16-March 23, Saijo, http://www.art-connect.me/

Hikaru Yamashita Solo Exhibition: A study of “Bookseller Atom” January 18-March 23, Tomonotsu Museum, Tomonoura, ¥500, Elementary school & younger free http://abtm.jp/

Yankee Anthropology April 26-July 21, Tomonotsu Museum, Tomonoura, ¥500 Elementary school & younger free, Closed Monday & Tuesday (except National Holidays), http://abtm.jp/

Photo © Gekkan Champ Road 提供：月刊チャンプロード

INSIDE / OUT Here we harness the wisdom of Hiroshima’s long term residents to try and answer those “What the...?!” questions.

what's deal with cycling the... in Hiroshima? by jjwalsh

Bicycles are everywhere in Japanese cities and Hiroshima is no exception. Cycling manners seem to have evolved separate from loosely enforced official rules and it can sometimes seem like the Wild West on the streets. Although the number of accidents involving bicycles has been steadily decreasing over the past decade, over 20% of traffic accidents in Hiroshima still involve cyclists. Cycle laws have been tightened recently and rogue cyclists are, on paper at least, liable for heavy penalties.

ROAD OR SIDEWALK? The police tell us that bicycles are classified as keisharyo light vehicles and, as such, should be on the left hand side of the road. The penalty for riding against the flow of traffic is up to 3 months in prison or a fine of up to ¥50,000

Seem clear enough? Not so fast. ~~If heavy traffic or road works make passage difficult or dangerous riding on a sidewalk is OK. ~~Bicycles are allowed on shared sidewalks, indicated by a bicycle and pedestrian shown in white on a blue sign. ~~Children 13 and under are allowed to cycle on the sidewalk, as are people over 70.

On the sidewalk ~~If on the sidewalk, cyclists must ride on the right, slowly and giving priority to pedestrians. ~~If there is no proper sidewalk, but a rosokutai pedestrian strip marked by a white line, cyclists can use the lane on the left side of the road, as long as you do not obstruct pedestrians.

the turn as would a pedestrian.

possible (look for the

~~Cyclists should always cycle as far left as possible - even in a bus only or left turn only lane.

bicycles without a kickstand, but others (Eg basement of PARCO department store) use bike racks. Use a lock to prevent someone trading up from a shopping bike.

mark on our maps). Some disallow

DON’T DRINK AND RIDE! Drunk driving rules apply to cyclists. The penalty for cycling under the influence is up to 5 years in prison or a fine of up to 1 million yen. Anyone who serves someone alcohol knowing they will be cycling later may also face punishment.

RENT OR BUY? Many hotels and hostels have bicycles for rent, but if you want to buy a bicycle while in Japan, consider a folding one you can travel with. On trains, bicycles must be completely enclosed in a bag.

LOOK NO HANDS! Talking on the phone, texting, wearing headphones, holding an umbrella, riding at night without a light and not using hand signals when turning are all prohibited by law and can result in fines of up to ¥50,000. Those riding 2 or 3 abreast or giving someone a a ride on the back can be fined up to ¥20,000.

LIGHTS AND HELMETS ~~Road traffic law stipulates a light in front and reflector in the rear. ~~Helmets are suggested for adults, but strongly recommended for children.

REMEMBER! In the event of an accident. whatever the circumstances, a car driver always bears most responsibility if he or she hits a cyclist and a cyclist shoulders most of the blame when hitting a pedestrian. The Hiroshima city government website cites cases where cyclists have had to pay up to 500 million yen in compensation for injury caused to pedestrians.

So, now you know the law, get out there, spin your wheels and be safe.

jjwalsh is a co-founder of GetHiroshima with 20 years of experience of life in Japan. If you have a question about life in Hiroshima email to insideout@gethiroshima.com

“FIXIES” All bicycles on public roads must have a front and rear brake. Riding fixed gear with brakes attached is not illegal, but is strongly discouraged.

On the road ~~When turning right at traffic signals, cyclists should make

DON’T FALL FOUL OF THE “BIKE POLICE” Parking rules are strict and bicycles are regularly hauled away. Use a paid parking facility (¥100/day) whenever

GetHiroshima / Spring 2014

/52

A Book and a Coffee Words / Photos by Matthew Mangham

Traveling can be hard work. We all know that. No one here is going to blame you if you skip that last shrine on the list in favor of settling down with a book and a coffee. In fact, we’re here to help. Whether you’re here for a month, or just have a few hours to kill around Hiroshima Station, we’ve got you covered. In order of preference, then:

Maruzen /

Junkudo Books /

Chamonix-Mont-Blanc

Roman Cafe Jr.

Maruzen: 7-8F, Tenmaya Bldg. 5-22, Ebisu-cho, Naka-ku, Map p.29 [C-3] 1 Hours: 10:00-22:00 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc: 3-17 Horikawa-cho, Nakaku, Map p.29 [C-3] 5 Hours: Always Open

Junkudo: 10F, Fukuya Ekimae-ten, 9-1, Matsubara-cho, Minami-ku, Map p.30 [D-2] 2 Hours: 10:00-21:00 Roman Café Jr.: Same as above Hours: 10:00-20:00

At the moment, your best option in the city center. Maruzen Bookstore takes up the 7th and 8th floors of the Yamada Denki building on the corner of Chuodori and the main streetcar street (Aioidori, though locals universally call it Denshadori, or Train Street). The English language books are shelved at the northernmost end of the 7th floor, to the left of the elevators. Continue left and around the corner to find the foreign language periodicals and children’s books. Maruzen has the most balanced selection of English books in town by a fairly wide margin. Classics, bestsellers, business and science are all given a place, along with the mandatory ‘On Japan’ section and a shelf devoted to fantasy and science fiction. There are a few books in French, and the periodicals section offers several French editions as well as a handful of German and Italian magazines.

When you’ve made a choice, find your way to the covered arcade section on the south side of the building, on the opposite side from the streetcars. Here you’ll find Chamonix-Mont-Blanc Café, open day and night since 1955.

Since the razing of The Pearl a few years ago, this is one of the last, great mid-century cafés in the downtown area.

It’s a little worn and faded, but its aged elegance wins me over every time I visit. Head upstairs to the curved windows looking down on the arcade and across to the little shrine behind Mitsukoshi Department Store. On the menu, you’ll find coffees from ¥400, all good, along with sandwiches, pizza and more. An Englishman has married into the family, and if he’s there he can help navigate the menu, as well as tell you a little about the café’s history. A wonderful place.

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This is the choice if you’re near Hiroshima Station. Across from the south side of the station (the Shinkansen tracks are on the north side, so you’ll need to cross through the pedestrian tunnel out front), you’ll spot a blocky beige building with a large blue `F’ near the top. This is the Yale Yale (don’t ask, we don’t know either) Shopping Center. You’ll need to take another underground passage to reach it; look for the escalator leading down in front of the Station.

Junkudo Books takes up most of the 10th floor. The English offerings are mostly limited to a single aisle near the checkout, although there are also a few scattered through the arts section. There’s a small selection of magazines and newspapers, including Le Monde and the English language Japanese dailies, books on Japan beyond the periodicals, and then the fiction section. It’s also a good place to find manga in translation.

Continue down the aisle to the east end of the building, and you’ll find Roman Café Jr., an outpost of the original Café in Onomichi. Known for its wonderful, creamy lattes and cappuccinos (¥472), the counter along the window is an excellent place to sit with a coffee and your new book, or to gaze out over the city and river below. If you spot your train pulling in, you’ve missed it. Time for a second cup.

Kinokuniya / Cafée Posh First

Academy Books / nice nonsense books / CAFE Cinnamon nice nonsense books: 5-22 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku, Weekdays 12:00-16:30, Saturdays 14:00-19:00, Map p.31 6 Cafe Cinnamon: 3-4 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku, 11:3015:30, 18:00-22:30 (L.O.) Closed Tuesdays Map p.31 4 Although they have coffee at the delightful Cafe Cinnamon, you may be tempted to treat your taste buds with a refreshing, sparkling soft drink from their range of retro-Japanese labeled “ciders”. Dropping in here is worthwhile anytime, but if it can be timed to coincide with when “nice nonsence books” is also open, it’d be twice as nice. Located diagonally opposite from the cafe, it may not be a good place for English books, but you may find a little gem that takes you by surprise. If your timing is off, work your way through Cafe Cinnamon’s famous honey toast- a towering tribute to Showa-era kissaten coffee shops.

St. Marc CaféE Academy Books: 1-7 Hondori, Naka-ku Hours: 10:00-20:00, Closed New Year’s Eve/Day Map.29 [B-3] 3 St. Marc Café: 6-9 Horikawa-cho, Naka-ku Hours: 7:30-22:00, Map.29 [C-3] 4 Academy Used Books has at least two locations, but here we’re talking about the main store in the Hondori Shopping Arcade, on the west side of the arcade between Parco and Fukuya Department Stores. Two narrow floors crammed with the literary jetsam of a Japanese city. It’s a wonderful place to explore at length, thumbing through pre-war postcards and peering at the collector’s editions behind glass. Most of the English books are upstairs, near the front of the store. They’re replenished regularly, and the fun is in seeing what they have when you visit, and trying to guess where it might have come from. I’ve found a lot of gems here over the years. It’s the only bookstore in town where you’ll find a boxed concordance to Milton’s English poetry shelved alongside a copy of the unfairly overlooked Kin in Heat, with its cover illustration of plus-sized lingerie models pawing one another atop bedraggled sheets. Don’t miss it.

Standing in front of the bookstore, look right and you’ll spot the St. Marc Café, just across from H&M. The café became enormously popular some years back for its warm chocolate croissants (¥170), and while it doesn’t have a great deal of character (for that see Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, listed above) it’s a good example of a modern chain café, and remains a popular stop for young Japanese. The third floor is for smokers, but the second floor windows offer another great spot to sit down with a coffee (¥300 for a large standard blend) and watch the crowds swirl by on the arcade below.

Kinokuniya: 6F, AQUA Hiroshima Center-Gai, 6-27 Motomachi, Naka-ku, Map p.29 [B-2] 5 Hours: 10:00-20:00 Café Posh First: 3F, Sogo New Bldg, 6-27 Motomachi, Naka-ku, Map p.29 [B-2] 5 Hours: 10:00-20:00 Frankly, this is your least appealing option, though it will do in a pinch if you’re in the immediate area and pressed for time. Kinokuniya Bookstore is on the sixth floor of Sogo Department Store. In past years, Kinokuniya maintained a credible English language section, but recently they’ve cut back to a third of what they once had. There’s a good selection of Japanese literature in translation, and shelves of popular bestsellers. If you’re the lucky one to grab it, they even have a single copy of Cameron Diaz’s The Body Book. A few English language children’s books, shelved to the right of the checkout, round out their offerings. Who knows, you may find just what you were looking for. The stationery section is worth a look, too, if you’re interested in Japanese papers and journals.

From the checkout section, cross through to the new building and head down to the third floor. Here you’ll find Café Posh First (check the floor map by the escalator). Popular with young women, the main attractions here are the long list of coffees and the Afternoon Tea Set (¥1260), which includes tea, sandwiches, scones and cake served on a stacked tower of plates that will either delight you or make you feel acutely self-conscious, depending on how you’re built. I went with coffee (though I was told my choices were limited because there was ‘only one chef’), and stationed myself at the window counter, with its winsome view of the government offices across the way. Still, I’ve had that tea set before, and it is nice.

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Meet Hiroshima’s real Tourism Ambassador A couple of years ago, the prefectural government launched a tongue in cheek media campaign to boost domestic tourism to the area. Sharp-tongued comedian Hiroiki Ariyoshi played the prefecture’s tourism ambassador who headed the PR campaign under the slogan Oshii! Hiroshima-ken, which can be translated as something like, “Hiroshima Prefecture: Almost Famous!”

I’m not sure how effective the Oshii! campaign was, but where international visitors are concerned, Hiroshima is lucky to have a real, if unofficial, tourism ambassador working nightly in the center of the city. Rock fan, Tsuyoshi “BOM” Mitsuyuki, is the proprietor of Koba, a little bar equipped with a tiny kitchen in downtown Hiroshima, which has become something of an oasis for weary Japan travelers.

BOM has no hesitation in pronouncing, Hiroshima wa saikou na machi - “Hiroshima is the best!” - with a confidence that perhaps only a non-native can muster. For many of us, it’s hard to think of Hiroshima without BOM, but he actually grew up in Kobe, moving here in the late ‘90s. He says he was struck by the interconnected nature of Hiroshima’s tightly knit music, art and activist communities - not to mention their appetite for drinking - and the ease with which he was able find like-minded people. Kobe is well known in Japan for its Western influence, but he says he always felt a divide between the international population and the locals.

He was pleasantly surprised to find that divide absent in Hiroshima, where people of all nationalities were hanging out based on common interests and passions.

The thing about BOM is that he isn’t trying to do anything; he’s just being himself. That’s what has drawn people to Koba, since it opened in 2002, and kept them coming back.

BOM never set out to become a stop on Japan’s travel trail, but recommendations from local hostels, and then a coveted place in Lonely Planet’s Japan guide turned a trickle of international travelers into a steady flow.

An excellent host, BOM goes to great lengths to make new customers feel welcome and to keep his regulars entertained. Although his English has improved over the years, he has always had the uncanny ability to communicate in spite of language barriers and he is exceptionally welcoming to overseas travelers. A talented musician, BOM is a natural entertainer and he has developed quite a repertoire of party pieces that have customers in stitches. Hit it off, and he will likely give you a performance. For a real treat, ask where you can see Hiroshima Star Wars.

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A warning though. It is not unusual for travelers who pop in for a quick drink and a bite to eat just after opening to find themselves still laughing at the counter at 3am. BOM’s hospitality has resulted in many extending their time in Hiroshima, either so they can return for another night at Koba, or by being incapacitated by a well earned hangover!

Local tourism officials have been taxing their brains for years about how best to encourage overseas visitors to spend more time here in the city than it takes to view the Peace Museum, and how to turn one-off visitors into “repeaters”. The ”Koba effect” achieves exactly this (one customer turned friend has been back to Hiroshima 10 times in the past few years). So, what is BOM’s secret?

“You tend to get back what you put out”, he says. “Greet people in an open and friendly way and that is exactly how a new customer usually responds.” Not exactly rocket science, but it’s a message that other business owners wondering how to best receive Hiroshima’s increasing number of foreign visitors would do well to heed.

BOM is well aware that entering a new bar, hidden from the street, in Japan can be a little trepidatious. Visitors to Hiroshima in particular, may be nervous about how they will be received, as well as feeling somewhat morose after an afternoon learning about the A-bombing. If you want to get deep, he is more than willing. His main concern, however, is first to convey that the effort people make to come and visit Hiroshima is much appreciated, Second, that while the past should never be forgotten, we should take advantage of the fact that the universe has brought us together and look to the future. “If everyone in the world had the opportunity to sit down one on one to enjoy a drink or laugh together, war would be consigned to the past,” says BOM and he is providing just such an opportunity, one customer at a time.

Thanks to BOM and people like him, when visitors talk about Hiroshima after returning home, they focus not only on its tragic history, but also share tales of the vibrancy of the modern city, the positivity of its people, and of late night air guitar sessions.

Koba is officially open every day except Wednesday from 6pm to 2am serving drinks and delicious food. You may, however, find its doors open well after that, and BOM often also opens on Wednesdays just for drinks or live music.

Words: Paul Walsh / Photo © Junpei Ishida

Matt’s Moment “Recovering Hiroshima”

by Matthew Mangham

Well then, here you are. But where is that?

center and a major port on the Seto Inland Sea. They’ll certainly mention the food, the okonomiyaki, oysters and prizewinning sakes.

As always, it depends whom you ask. For reasons both obvious and less so, the name Hiroshima has a great many associations for different people. It’s a name with a story attached, far more familiar beyond Japan’s borders than the names of larger cities. Hiroshima’s name has become shorthand for destruction on a scale that mocks any response save despair.

What’s most important isn’t what they’ll tell you, but the pride in the telling. They’re passionate about their hometown here. I’ve known people who, on returning after time away, find themselves in tears outside Hiroshima Station at the sound of so many voices speaking the local dialect, every bit as piquant as the sounds of Brooklyn or Glasgow and associated in most of Japan with old gangster films.

I hope, though, that when you leave our city you’ll carry away more than a memory of grim museum exhibits, or tarnished plaques with images of shattered buildings.

Hiroshima survives, and a vital part of the city’s recovery, the recovery of its name, lies in the stories travelers take home with them, wherever home is. Not to forget what happened here, but to complete that story.

I love this city. Like any place, there are days when it will bring you to the brink. But when the local trio Perfume took the microphone at New Year’s Eve on NHK’s Red and White Singing Contest and asked, “Hiroshima, are you watching?”

I was on my feet, albeit unsteadily from the sake, shouting, “I’m watching! I’m here!” Embarrassing, of course, but this town gets under your skin. I came intending to stay one year.

That was fourteen years ago and I’m grateful to have found a home here.

So again, where are you? Ask a local and they’ll launch into a stock recitation of the city’s virtues. They’ll point to Hiroshima’s size, ideal for a well-ordered life. The triple blessing of mountains, rivers and sea. Dig a little deeper, and you’ll hear about the friendliness of the people.

They’re right about that. At its best, the local character is as boisterous and forward as Osaka’s, without that larger city’s potential for cold-bloodedness. You may hear about the drowsing feudal capital grown into a roaring industrial

But I do envy the traveler.

Frankly, there’s not much to see, in the Fodor’s sense of the word. The upside to that, of course, is that there’s no programmed itinerary to come between you and the town.

But don’t think for a moment that there aren’t experiences to be had. The guidebooks will lead you to the approved

tourist sites, tell you when the festivals are and how to find them. Locals will tell you more if you ask. But why stop there? After you’ve ticked off Peace Park and Miyajima (you will visit Miyajima, if you’re smart), go find Hiroshima yourself. I charge you with the task of recovering some small piece of Hiroshima to take home with you. The city really is the perfect size, so go wandering. Hop a streetcar and get off when things look interesting. Walk the streets until you find the right door to push open. Get yourself good and lost. There’s always a taxi around the next corner, or the one after that.

And relax. This isn’t Kyoto; you don’t have twenty things to see before nightfall. There’s no need to be on the far side of Tokyo thirty minutes from now. This is Hiroshima, so stake out a sunny spot on the river, or in a coffee shop overlooking Hondori, and let the world slide by for a while. Later, head out for a beer. Ask where’s good. Just don’t blame me when some local kidnaps you for the night, taking you to places you will never, ever find again if you go looking on your own.

That’s about it, really. We’re glad you’re here. Hiroshima is a work in progress and for the next day, or week, you’re a part of it. We all have our favorite places, that one view of the town that makes it so hard to leave. Get out there and find your own, then tell us about it. Go home and tell all of them, too. Tell them the best monument to Hiroshima is the sound of a city at night, playing the last grace notes of another day on earth. And enjoy yourself.

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45 bis awa | quarante-cinq bis awa |

Everyone is welcome at this roadside standing “bubble bar” and grill. Enjoy Champagne, wine, beer, etc with some char-grilled dishes, hot off the flames.

The charcoal grill brings out the full flavor of our high quality ingredients. Prices are so reasonable you could pop in every day.

menu includes

Charcoal Grill Yakitori Tapas

¥190~ ¥480~ ¥300~

address

1-18, Fukuro machi, Naka ku, Hiroshima tel

082.545.0450 business hour

17:00-23:30

45 | quarante-cinq |

A bistro in the heart of the city, 45 has a great selection of wine, including many varieties of Natural Wine or Vin Naturel, known as “Bio Wine” in Japan.

Pair a glass or two with dishes from our wide selection of foods on the menu.

Why not treat yourself to homemade Italian salsiccia sausages, Hiroshima oysters or some of our many dishes featuring locally grown vegetables.

Popular dishes

Salad Niçoise Homemade Italian sausage (pork, lamb, beef) Duck confit with potatoes

address

1-18, Fukuro machi, Naka ku, Hiroshima tel

082.545.1225 business hour

11:30-23:30

RIVA | riva |

RIVA, inspired by the 1958 film Hiroshima Mon Amour, is a 'Hiroshima Japanese Restaurant' serving local cuisine with a modern twist and a touch of Japanese omotenashi hospitality. Here at RIVA you will find reasonably priced, fresh interpretations of traditional dishes made only with local ingredients. A visit here is an excellent opportunity to experience the “taste of Hiroshima” .

Choose from seasonal courses, consisting of many beautiful small dishes of food, or order a la carte. Of course, we also have an excellent selection of local sake.

Emmanuel Riva homage course A la carte Sake address

1-17, Shintenchi, Naka ku, Hiroshima tel

082.545.5360 business hour

17:00-23:00

¥3980 ¥525~ ¥725~

¥680 ¥500 ¥1800

Kanawa Kakifune Oyster boat

“Hiroshima’s famous oysters, fresh and delicious”

Enjoy high quality cuisine and service to match, on a floating restaurant. Kanawa’s kakifune boat is one of the kind that once

PEACE PARK

used to ship oysters from local waters to markets in Osaka.

Lunch 11:00-14:00 (L.O.) Dinner Monday-Saturday 17:00-21:00 (L.O.), Sunday & National Holidays 17:00-20:30 (L.O.) Ote-machi 3 chome, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi (082-241-7416) Just south of Peace Memorial Park Map p.29 [A-4] 29

Kaki Meian Oyster Bar Oysters in season from Hiroshima and around the world. Enjoy a single raw oyster or choose from a variety of specialities that pair well with our wine and sake.

11:00-22:00 (L.O. 21:30)

ASSE Kanawa

Raw oyster & wine set

6F Hiroshima Station ASSE Building (082-263-7317)

¥1300 (plus tax)

map p.30 [E-2] 28

HIROSHIMA STAT

ION

A more casual dining space serving oyster dishes and other local specialities such as anago-meshi sea eel on rice and Takehara beef. Standard seating and Japanese hori-gotatsu style tables with sunken floor available.

11:00-22:00 (L.O. 21:30)

6F Hiroshima Station ASSE Building (082-263-3296) map p.30 [E-2] 27

Kanawa Hiroshima Airport Order local and internationally sourced oysters from a single serving and up. Beautifully prepared sashimi platters, nabe hot pots and stacked boxed meals and other dishes also available.

08:00-L.0 20:00 3F Hiroshima Airport (0848-86-8330)

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English menus and ma jor credit cards accepted at all locations.

www.kanawa.co.jp

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multipurpose hall)

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5. Former Bank of Japan Hiroshima Branch (1F

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Art (1F entrance)

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(1F International Exchange Lounge)

4. Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary

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3. International Conference Center Hiroshima

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Station (South Exit, Underground Plaza) (vicinity)

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lobby, 3F Museum shop vicinity)

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Honkawa Primary School

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1. Tap “settings”, open the Wi-Fi settings screen, and turn on the Wi-Fi option.

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How to sign up to use Hiroshima Free Wi-Fi

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(Bunka Koryu Kaikan) (1F front desk lobby)

2. From the list of wireless networks shown, select SSID “Hiroshima_Free_Wi-Fi”.

3. Follow the instructions. After agreeing to the Terms of Service, you can connect to the Internet easily after registering with just your name and email address.

© MICHELIN

Hiroshima City’s official free WiFi service

The official tourism website “Hiroshima Navigator” will open automatically from where you can go to any other site you want to visit.

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