GetHiroshima Mag Spring 2016

BE MORE THAN A TOURIST

Seasonal

Going Out

Visitors

Destinations

Festivals

Dining & Nightlife

Maps

Ninoshima

Hanami

Events

Sights

Setouchi Art Triennale

Sports

Art

Getting Around

Onan

THE SPRING ISSUE 2016

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Streetcar lines Hiroden Line #1 (Hiroshima Station > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #2 (Hiroshima Station > Miyajima-guchi) Hiroden Line #3 (Hiroden Nishi Hiroshima > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #5 (Hiroshima Station > Hijiyama-shita > Hiroshima Port) Hiroden Line #6 (Hiroshima Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #7 (Yokogawa Station > Hiroden Honsha mae) Hiroden Line #8 (Yokogawa Station > Eba) Hiroden Line #9 (Hatchobori > Hakushima) Astram Line (Hondori > Koikikoenmae)

Asa Zoo (Kamiyasu)

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World Heritage Route (boat) (Peace Park > Miyajima)

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Matsuyama Super Jet Ferry

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Nakasuji

Transport Museum

Tomochuo Ozuka Koikikoenmae

¥190~480

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Mitaki JR

Mitaki Temple

Miyajima Guchi JR

Fudoin Temple

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JR Train Lines

Nishihara

Astram Line fares vary according to distance.

Big Arch Stadium

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JR Ferry and Matsudai Ferry to Miyajima

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WELCOME Here we are embarking on the 3rd year of our mission to give the intrepid sojourner a head start in getting under the skin of our hometown. It’s great to see that we have more writers contributing to this issue than any so far. If you would like to join our growing team of contributors, or if you have any comments on how we are doing and how we can improve, please get in touch via the email address below. We would love to hear from you.

GetHiroshima Mag Issue 9 March, 2016 Circulation 10,000 copies Published quarterly by GetHiroshima Next issue June, 2016 Printed by Hiroshima Chuo Printing Co., Ltd. Motoaki Tahara

この街の勇敢な滞在者の皆さんに、ホームタウン の裏側まで知るための有利な情報を与えるとい う私たちのミッションも、3年目となりました。嬉 しいことに、今号ではこれまで以上に多くのライ

In this issue, as well as our regular looks at the region’s festivals and the hanami cherry blossom season, Matt Jungblut explores the city’s growing craft beer scene, we talk to Hiroshima’s bohemian queen Goto Izumi and local residents share some of their favorite spots in which to eat, drink, sing and canoodle. We also look further afield because as much we love this city, there is so much good stuff around the region. The Setouchi Art Triennale is a year-long festival of art and culture spread over 12 Inland Sea islands and Onan is a hidden rural gem in the middle of the Chugoku mountains across the border in Shimane Prefecture. Oh, and before you go, don’t forget to check out Matt’s Moment at the back of the mag; someone has clearly been smoking the shirako over the winter.

ターの皆さんに寄稿頂いています。もし寄稿に興 味がある方、その他コメントやより良くなるため のアドバイスなどありましたら、下記のアドレスへ メールをお願いします。あなたの感想をぜひお聞 かせください。 今号では、いつもの地域の祭りと花見についての 情報と合わせて、マット・ヤングブラットが盛り上 がりを見せる街のクラフトビアのシーンを探り、 広島のボヘミアンクイーン、ゴトウイズミさんと 地元の人たちが、食べたり、飲んだり、歌ったり、 まったりできるお気に入りの場所を教えてくれま す。さらに今回、この大好きな街と同じくらい地 域周辺にはたくさんのいいところがあるので、範 囲を広げて見てみましたよ。瀬戸内国際芸術祭 は、1年を通して瀬戸内海の１２の島で繰り広げら れるアートとカルチャーの祭り、邑南町は、中国

Paul Walsh

山地の真ん中、島根県との境に位置する隠れた 田舎の宝石です。そうそう、最後に、この冊子の

Cover:

後ろにあるMatt’s Momentをチェックするのを

Goto Izumi Photo: Junpei Ishida

作っていたみたいですよ。

忘れずに。この冬の間、誰かさんが白子の燻製を

Editor-in-chief Paul Walsh Design team NININBAORI http://nininbaori.co.jp/ Art Direction: Judith Cotelle Katsuyoshi Kunimasa Ryouta Kumagai Contributors David Billa Jade Brischke Kismet Cordova Damien Cordova Judith Cotelle Goto Izumi Matt Jungblut Matt Mangham Alex Rey Charlie Rose JJ Walsh Photography Judith Cotelle www.jud-hiroshima.com Jumpei Ishida Charlie Rose http://charlieroselovelove.com/ Mish Vampiro Photography http://www.mishvampiro.com JJ Walsh Special thanks to Kismet Cordova, Matt Jungblut and JJ Walsh for their invaluable editorial assistance.

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All rights reserved © GetHiroshima 2016 As far as we are aware, all info correct at time of going to print. If you see something that has changed, we’d really appreciate you letting us know at info@gethiroshima.com Warning/Disclaimer GetHiroshima will not accept liability for any damages caused by the contents of GetHiroshima Mag, including, but not limited to any omissions, errors, facts or false statements. Opinions or advice expressed in GetHiroshima Mag are not necessarily those of GetHiroshima. No content published in GetHiroshima can be reproduced, republished, retransmitted or redistributed without permission.

GetHiroshima / Spring 2016

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CONTENTS 02/ Getting Around 03 / Welcome 04/ Contents 05 / GetHiroshima Picks 06 / Festival Focus 09 / Kagura 24 / City Maps 28 / Place Listings 32 / Events 34 / Fan Fantastic 35 / Art 36 / Fashion & Shopping 44 / Eat the day!

46 / Matt’s Moment

FEATURES 10 / Hanami in Hiroshima Everyone’s favorite time of year. Your guide to enjoying the cherry blossom in Hiroshima.

12/ Setouchi Triennale David Billa provides a local’s eye view of this ambitious art festival.

15 / Better Beer in Hiroshima Matt Jungblut gives you the low down on Hiroshima’s emerging craft beer scene.

18 / Ninoshima Hiking, biking, paddling and beachcombing on a historical island just a 20 minute ferry ride away.

20 / Onan Beautiful scenery, country villages and gourmet food well off the beaten path in Shimane Prefecture.

38 / Hiroshima’s Bohemian Queen: Goto Izumi Our Deep Hiroshima correspondent talks about her music, life, work and entertainment.

42 / Goto Izumi’s Deep Hiroshima Just how “deep” do GetHiroshima’s writers go?

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GetHiroshima picks You’ve been to the Peace Memorial Park and Miyajima. What next?

PEACE PAGODA

FAN FANTASTIC

KAGURA

Walk up Mt Futaba from Tōshō-gū shrine along a path that takes you under 100 red torii gates through an old growth forest to great views from the Peace Pagoda at the top.

Love for the Hiroshima Carp is unequivocal.

Baseball fan or not, a home game is always memorable. Soccer lovers can enjoy the Japanese stadium experience at a Sanfrecce game.

Ancient myths and folktales performed in extravagant costumes to frenetic drum rhythms, complete with dry ice, fireworks and exploding cobwebs.

City center shows at Kenmin Bunka Center every Wednesday night (p. 9)

MITAKI TEMPLE

EAT!

SHIMIZU GEKIJO

Cure Kyoto “temple fatigue” and calm the soul in the gorgeous verdant grounds of Mitaki Temple, 20min walk up the hill from Mitaki station (3 stops from Hiroshima on the Kabe Line).

Okonomiyaki is both a meal and a culinary performance. Oysters and tsukemen cold noodles in spicy dipping sauce are also local specialities. Wash it all down with some great local sake.

Step into the world of Japanese vaudeville performed by itinerant troupes with very loyal fans.

3hr shows at 12pm & 6pm (¥1900) or catch the 1hr finale for just ¥1000. http://bit.ly/shimizugekijo

SHUKKEI-EN GARDEN

ISLAND HOP

OUT ON THE TOWN

Wander through the miniature landscapes in this city center garden or take a seat by the lake and watch the koi carp, turtles and birds. Lovely rain or shine.

Hiroshima Port is the gateway to the islands of the Inland Sea. Sleepy Ninoshima is the nearest (p.18).

Don’t have great sea legs? Stroll the Ujina waterfront or walk over to Moto-ujina island.

We urge you to eat, drink, and yes, make merry with Hiroshima people. It’s only then that you can get a real appreciation of what a special place Hiroshima is and truly feel its message of peace.

GetHiroshima / Spring 2016

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Spring Festivals Hina doll displays, glorious cherry blossoms, festival-packed Golden Week, Shinto and Buddhist rites, and the first fireworks of the year: Spring is a great time for festivals around Hiroshima, and, weather permitting, many wonderful days out are to be had.

Temperatures may still be low, but when “Girl’s Day” comes around on March 3, we know that the worst is behind us and spring is on its way. Beautiful dolls that feature in the generally private Hina-matsuri, are displayed publicly in historical towns throughout the month. A visit to Miyajima at this time of year may well coincide with rituals at either Itsukushima Shrine or Daishoin Temple. Less traditional, but hugely attended, is the three day Flower Festival; one of many events that vie for your attention during Golden Week.

KINTAIKYO BRIDGE FESTIVAL / 4/29 - IWAKUNI

The return from the capital ,Edo, of the local lord and his retainers is re-enacted in an elaborate costume parade over Iwakuni’s impressive 5-arched Kintai Bridge. Samurai shooting display, lots of food stalls and a huge flea market make this festival a great way to kick off the Golden Week holidays.

FLOWER FESTIVAL / 5/3-5 - HIROSHIMA

Over a million people flood into Hiroshima for the Flower Festival when Peace Boulevard is taken over by parades, stalls and stages. Paradeless Day 2 feels least crowded, but the yosakoi dance parade on Day 3 provides great photo opportunities. Don’t miss the candle display in Peace Park after dark.

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KIYOMORI FESTIVAL / 3/20 - MIYAJIMA

Miyajima pays tribute to the the 12th century samurai clan leader Taira-no-Kiyomori, the man responsible for Itsukushima Shrine’s stunning design. A Heian period costume parade makes its way from the ferry terminal, through Itsukushima Shrine, and ends at Kiyomori Shrine. Starts at 12 noon.

MITAMA FESTIVAL / 5/29-31 - GOKOKU-JINJA SHRINE

This 3-day festival for the souls of the war dead enshrined at Gokoku-jinja Shrine, was first held on 1975 on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of Showa Emperor Hirohito’s reign. Saturday night is the highlight with dances featuring a hundred “shrine maidens” as well as Japanese taiko drumming and kagura.

BENTENJIMA FIREWORKS FESTIVAL / 5/30 18:40-20:30 - TOMO-NO-URA, FUKUYAMA

Summer comes early to Tomo-no-ura with the region’s first big fireworks display of the year. A visit to this medieval fishing port is highly recommended at any time of the year. The usually sleepy town is busier than usual, but it’s a beautiful show. (30 min by bus from Fukuyama JR Station ) GetHiroshima / Spring 2016

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MIMI EAR FESTIVAL / 3/3 - OYAMA SHRINE, INNOSHIMA, ONOMICHI Since 1956, March 3 has also been “National Ear Health Day” (in Japanese “ear” is mimi, and “three” is mi, so 3/3 is…) At Oyama Shrine on Innoshima, worshipers visit the shrine of the god of healthy ears, which is adorned with giant ear pillows, through a giant ear cut-out. Kagura dance, Japanese drumming and hula performances too.

Starts at 13:30

HINA DOLL FESTIVALS / TOMO-NO-URA, TAKEHARA, MIYAJIMA March 3 is Hina Matsuri or “Girls’ Day” when households blessed with daughters put up elaborate displays of ornamental hina-ningyou dolls in medieval court dress. In early spring, Tomo-noura, Takehara and Miyajima display antique dolls to the public in historical buildings - a worthwhile addition to a visit to these fascinating places. © Ruma views

FIRE WALKING RITUAL / 4/15 - 11AM - DAISHO-IN TEMPLE, MIYAJIMA © Lance Cpl. Benjamin Pryer

Arrive ahead of time to ensure a good view of this Shingon Buddhist ritual at Daisho-in Temple on Miyajima. Sutras are chanted from 11am and crowds gather before 1pm for the ritual lighting of the pyre of cypress branches. Around 2pm the head monk and mountain priests, followed by members of the public, make the walk across the embers.

DOWNTOWN SAKE FESTIVAL / MID MAY - ALICE GARDEN, HIROSHIMA An excellent opportunity to try a wide range of Hiroshima’s top quality sake produced by its many small breweries. You can buy a strip of 5 tickets, but most people go for the all-you-can-try refillable sake cup (a nice little souvenir) and the atmosphere gets increasingly lively as the night goes on.

MIBU NO HANA TAUE RITUAL RICE PLANTING / 6/7 - KITA-HIROSHIMA This revived rice planting ritual, an hour by car north of central Hiroshima, is said to have roots in the middle ages. Colorfully decorated bulls and saotome (rice planting maidens) in kimono and wide-brimmed sugegasa hats plant rice seedlings in time with the music performed by drummers and flautists.

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|| 2/20-3/21 Hina Doll Festival, Tomonoura || 2/11-3/21 Hina Doll Festival, Takehara || 3/3 Mimi (ear) Festival, Oyama Shrine,

Innoshima Island || 3/6 Hina-nagashi, Otake || 3/8 Memorial service for kitchen knives,

Daisho-in Temple, Miyajima || 3/12-3/13 Hiroshima Port Festival, Ujina || 3/19-4/3 Hina Doll Festival, Miyajima || 3/20-4/3 Izuwa Hina Doll Festival, Onan, Shimane || 3/20 Momo peach blossom tea ceremony,

Shukkei-en Garden || 3/24-4/3 Illuminated cherry blossom night

viewing, Shukkei-en Garden || 3/27 13:00~ Kiyomori Festival, Miyajima || 4/2,3 4/9,10 Illuminated cherry blossom night

viewing, Hiroshima City Botanical Gardens || 4/3 Cherry blossom tea ceremony,

Shukkei-en Garden || 4/2,3 4/9,10 Illuminated cherry blossom night

viewing, Hiroshima City Botanical Gardens || 4/8 11:00 Birth of Buddha memorial service,

Daisho-in Temple, Miyajima || 4/10 Hanamomo Peach Blossom Festival,

Kaizumi, Onan, Shimane || 4/15 11:00 Fire walking ritual,

Daisho-in Temple, Miyajima || 4/15 17:00 Toukasai ceremony and medieval

court dances, Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima || 4/16-4/18 Noh Performances,

Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima || 4/23-24 Onomichi Port Festiva || 4/29 Kintai Bridge Festival, Iwakuni || 4/29 Ritual tea picking, Shukkei-en Garden || 5/3-4 Takehara Bamboo Festival, Takehara || 5/3-5 Hiroshima Flower Festival || 5/5 Baby crying sumo, Gokoku Shrine || 5/14-15 Fukuyama Rose Festival, Fukuyama || 5/18 09:00 Empress Suiko memorial ceremony &

medieval court dances, Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima || 5/20 Sanou Mountain King Festival, Onomichi || 5/21-22 Ji-no-hi Festival, Onan, Shimane || 5/28 19:00 Mitama Festival, Gokoku Shrine || 5/28 Benten-jima Island fireworks festival, Tomonoura || 5/29 10:00 Children’s sumo, Gokoku Shrine www.gethiroshima.com/events

kagura spectacular folk theater for the masses

A giant, multicolored, eight-headed serpent writhes back and forth across the stage, attacking and entwining a sword-wielding hero. Engulfed in smoke, sparks spitting from its multiple jaws, the beast bites, spins and leaps, occasionally snapping at young children brave enough to come to the front of the stage. The hero, of course, eventually triumphs, severing each of the heads in turn, to the delight of the audience.

This is the thrilling conclusion to Yamata-noorochi, a crowd-pleasing tale from Japanese mythology, often performed as the finale at kagura festivals and competitions.

Kagura is a diverse art form with a variety of performance styles. That performed in northern Hiroshima and Iwami in Shimane is characterized by energetic dances in elaborate (and heavy) costumes, accompanied by stirring rhythms. While

you may not understand the dialogue, the exciting fight scenes, lots of dry ice, fireworks and lightning-fast costume changes keep the uninitiated entertained.

In Hiroshima city, kagura is most often seen at autumn shrine festivals. Every Wednesday, however, troupes come in from the countryside to perform at Kenmin Bunka Center near the A-bomb Dome. Non-Japanese readers are provided with basic English outlines of the two pieces to be performed. There’s also an opportunity to check out the masks and costumes up close and get some souvenir snaps after the show.

Those who would like to delve deeper into the world of kagura should make a trip out to Monzenmura Kagura Village in Midorii in Akitakata. Here, around 20 troupes take turns in performing in the “Kagura Dome” and the facility also has restaurants, shops, a hot spring and accommodation.

H I R OSH IMA K AGURA I N HIROSHIM A CITY CE N TE R Every Wednesday Night at

∼Hiroshima Prefectural Citizen’s Culture Center∼ (Rijo Kaikan Kenmin Bunka Center)

SPRING SEASON: April 6, 13, 20, 27 May 4, 11, 18, 25 June 1, 8, 15, 22, 29

300m from Peace Memorial Park Admission: ¥1,000 Doors open: 18:00 First performance: 19:00-19:40 Intermission: 19:40-20:00 Second performance: 20:00-20:40 http://www.rccbc.co.jp/event/kagura/ All seats unassigned. Tickets on sale from 17:00 on day of performance.

Photo session with players and costumes on stage after the show from 20:40

Hanami

Hana no kage / aka no tanin wa / nakari keri Under the cherry-blossoms, None are utter strangers.

- Issa

Everything seems better when the cherry blossoms are in bloom. This fleeting season signals the end of winter and is eagerly awaited. Even commuting to work becomes a pleasure along roads and riverside paths trimmed with pink. Just about everyone makes a point of making time for at least one hanami picnic under the trees, and in the more popular spots it’s hard not to make friends.

Of course, cherry blossom viewing or hanami is all about meditating on the transience of life while admiring nature’s beauty, but the top spots can get crowded and, as the sake starts to flow, get quite lively. If it is peace and quiet you seek, pack a lunch and claim one of the many riverside clumps of trees too small to be designated as a “spot”. Alternatively, head for the hills in search of wild yama-zakura.

HOW TO HANAMI Basho-tori People often claim the best spots early in the morning, and if you plan to hit a popular spot with more than a few people you might want to follow suit. Blue sheets are ubiquitous, but any sheet wrought in plastic works like it has a force field around it.

Pro tip: Respect the sheet by removing your shoes.

Be flexible The weather can be exceedingly fickle at this time of year, so if you find yourself in the cherry blossom zone on a gorgeous day, drop all your other plans and make that your hanami day.

Layer up You can get some beautiful sunny days during hanami season, but it gets pretty chilly in the late afternoon and after dark.

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Treat yourself Convenience store bento lunches are all very well, but hanami is only once a year, so why not splash out on a nice “hanami bento” from a “depa-chika” in the basement of a department store or from local favorite Musashi? If you are still struggling to appreciate the Japanese bento, pick up a selection of bread, cheese, cold cuts and perhaps a nice bottle of wine.

Sake Don’t waste your money on cheapo firewater. High quality local jizake brews are reasonably priced and will impress your neighbors.

Trash bags One of the uglier sides of hanami season is the huge amount of trash that gets left behind in parks and on riversides. Don’t contribute to the problem.

mitaki temple

ryuo park

TRACK THE BLOSSOMS The “Cherry Blossom Front” makes its way up from Japan’s southern islands.

Forecasts calculated according to the Arrhenius equation are watched carefully, particularly by companies that make and sell bento lunches, for whom the ideal (most profitable) season is one that peaks around the end of the first week of April, when everyone has settled into the new work and school year.

Opening: March 27 Full bloom: April 5 (Forecast at date of publication) http://sakura.weathermap.jp/ [ja]

eba yama park

TOP 5 CITY HANAMI SPOTS Peace Park

Shukkei-en Garden Hiroshima Castle

NIGHT SAKURA Hijiyama Park

Hakushima Kuken-cho

Shukkei-en Garden

HANAMI DAYTRIPS cherry blossom

Miyajima Best known for its autumn colors, there are also some lovely cherry blossom spots on the sacred island. Our top recommendations are often surprisingly peaceful.

With a bit of luck you and the deer may have them to yourselves.

• Yogai-zan Hill • Along Uguisu Nature Trail • Tahoto Pagoda overlooking Itsukushima Shrine • Omoto Park

Kintai-kyo Bridge in Iwakuni

ushita park night time hanami

oshiba park

supermarket

futabayama hakushima kuken-cho

chuo park

hiroshima castle

shukkeien garden

© Hiroaki Kaneko

MISSED THE CITY CENTER BLOSSOMS?

peace park

hijiyama park

Japan Mint (Itsukaichi)

Yogai-zan, Miyajima

Haji Dam (Yachiyo)

higashi senda park

GetHiroshima / Spring 2016

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setouchi triennale Words / Photos: David Billa http://setouchiexplorer.com

When is it?

• Spring: March 20-April 17 • Summer: July 18-September 4 • Autumn: October 8-November 6

Ozuchishima from Ogijima

The Setouchi Triennale is has become one of Japan’s major art festivals and the first instalment of the 2016 event takes place in the east of the Seto Inland Sea this spring. I invite you

Where is it?

12 islands and 2 ports in Kagawa and Okayama Prefectures.

The two ports are Uno (Tamano city) and Takamatsu.

The twelve islands are: • Inujima • Megijima • Naoshima • Ogijima • Oshima • Shodoshima • Teshima • Shamijima (Spring only) • Awashima (Fall only) • Honjima (Fall only) • Ibukijima (Fall only) • Takamijima (Fall only)

to come and discover some amazing art in an even more amazing setting.

Every three years, more than a hundred artworks are installed on several islands in the Seto Inland Sea, but the Triennale is about more than just art. It also aims to showcase the beauty of the Inland Sea and its wonderful islands. With many of these islands facing a depopulation crisis, the keyword here is revitalization. Following the example of Japan’s most famous ‘art island’, Naoshima, art is being used to attract people to the islands and to help reinvigorate them.

WHAT IS THERE TO DO AND TO SEE? Sounds great, but I care about the art

I often say, you may come for the art, but it’s the islands and the people you meet that you’ll love.

The art itself is quite accessible so you don’t have to be a contemporary art to appreciate it. Above all, however, the Triennale is an excellent window on Japanese rural life. The islands each have their own unique and fascinating culture, a gentler pace of life and some of the nicest people you’ll meet. All this against one of the most beautiful and underrated backdrops in Japan.

Naoshima Pavilion

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too. What can I expect?

I haven’t seen the, as yet to be unveiled, new art pieces yet, but here’s what to expect based on past and permanent artworks from previous years, island by island.

Ogijima

ogijima Ogijima is simply my favorite island in the area, and one of my favorite spots in Japan. The village is one of Japan’s cutest and its people are some of the nicest. The art here is great, and much of it has a strong connection to the island and its culture. Ogijima is also probably the greatest revitalization success of the Triennale. Since 2010, the population of the island has actually increased (unthinkable only a decade ago), and it is slowly becoming a place full of life and activity.

Art­w ise, the stunning Ogijima’s Soul welcomes you as you set foot on the island. Onba Factory has been one of the cutest and most heartwarming Triennale projects since its beginning. Memory Bottle is both beautiful and a reminder that these islands are places where people live, not just settings for artworks. Akinorium is a very soothing and relaxing space made of sounds generated by bamboo. Also, I can’t wait to see Brazilian artist Oscar Oiwa’s new work, which should be a permanent installation.

Wallalley

Memory Bottles

teshima I love Teshima for its beautiful landscape and its wonderful and fun-loving people. Add some of the Triennale’s best art and it is clear that it should be near the top of your list. I consider the Teshima Art Museum to be one of the most amazing buildings in the world and Shinro Ohtake is currently creating a new large scale installation on Teshima. Make sure to visit the tiny village of Kō, on the south side. It’s not easily accessible, but usually houses some great, often moving, pieces that can only be seen during the festival.

Karato on Teshima

Yokoo house

shodoshima The second largest island in the Seto Inland Sea has much to offer, quite a little world in itself, and it would require several pages to detail them all. I love the fact that in whichever direction you look, you see either the sea or the mountains, sometimes both. As far as art is concerned, the valley of Hitoyama and Nakayama always has some “fan favorites” with its giant bamboo building that changes shape and name every three years, as well as some Straw Art (a form of art that’s becoming popular all over Japan). A lot of the art on Shōdoshima involves local communities, at least that’s the way it was three years ago. Also, Takeshi Kitano fans can’t miss his Anger from the Bottom.

Shodoshima Community Project

The Light of Shodoshima

“The Star Anger” by Kenji Yanobe

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naoshima

Inujima This small island takes some effort to reach, but it houses the fascinating Seirensho Art Museum

by Hiroshi Sambuichi, one of my favorite architects (he’s based in Hiroshima if I’m correct). More a giant installation than a museum, located in an abandoned copper refinery which becomes part of the art itself, it’s a pretty unique experience.

This may come as a surprise, but if you have already visited Naoshima and are short on time, you can skip it as all the art on the island is permanent and can be visited at any time. The only real advantage of going during the Triennial is financial (it’s cheaper to visit with a Triennale “Art Passport”). If you do go, don’t miss the Chichu Museum which is simply mind blowing. On the other hand, I find the Art House Project a bit underwhelming. I’m not a huge fan of the Benesse House Museum either, which is a nice museum but which could be located anywhere, it just happens to be on Naoshima. I do like most of the outdoor art though, and I can’t wait to see the brand new Naoshima Hall by Hiroshi Sambuichi.

Inujima

oshima This island is pretty unique in the whole Seto Inland Sea as it houses a hospital for Hansen’s disease survivors. Visiting the island is important, not for its art, but because you can learn about an important, but largely unknown, part of Japan’s recent history.

shamijima A tiny “former” island (it became attached to Shikoku due to land reclamation when the Great Seto Bridge was built), but, especially if you come by car, make sure you make the detour, as it will certainly have some nice, small installations.

uno port Three years ago Uno had some pretty interesting photography and always has some large scale outdoor sculptures.

Naoshima streets

Distant Memory / Teshima

Takamatsu Port In 2013, one of the high points of the festival was Bengal Island where artists and craftsmen from Bangladesh (plus a few Japanese and an American) worked, shared their skills and culture in this temporary village. This year, a similar project (most likely in the summer session) will take place involving people from several Asian countries. I expect it to be just as welcoming and important.

megijima I’m not a huge fan of Megijima. Still, Mecon, Equipoise and Presence of Absence are very interesting artworks.

Liminal-Air-Core in Takamatsu

LET’S TALK ABOUT MONEY FOR A MINUTE All of this is not free. Indoor installations usually have a ¥300 entrance fee and museums cost ¥500-¥2000.

This can add up quickly, so I recommend purchasing an Art Passport which is valid for all three seasons and grants one time access to every installation and indoor artwork, as well as serious discounts on the museums. The Art Passport is available for ¥4000 until March 19 and for ¥5000 once the event begins.

Passes for individual seasons also usually become available once the event starts.

A 3-day Triennale ferry pass, valid on most ferries, is also available for ¥2200 (a round trip from Takamatsu to Teshima alone will cost about the same). For prices, conditions and more info check out the official website http://setouchi-artfest.jp/en/.

Uno no Chinu

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And, with all that being said, I hope I’ll run into you somewhere on a Setouchi island this coming Spring.

Enjoy!

better beer in hiroshima:

a guide to the local craft beer scene Words: Matt Jungblut / Photos: Paul Walsh & Judith Cotelle

At my first enkai (Japanese drinking party) many years ago, as my glass of Sapporo neared the bottom, one of my co-workers topped off my beer with an Asahi. When I commented on this mixing of two different brands, the bespectacled man looked back at me and said, “It’s all beer, isn’t it?” After a while I accepted the fact that, in Japan, he was more or less correct. Thankfully things are changing and excellent domestic and imported microbrews are now available, if you know where to look.

ee r h ir o s h im a b ee r p io n Two random events were key to the development of Hiroshima’s beer scene: Takashi Fukumoto tried an imported Hoegaarden beer and his wife chose beer over burgers. Mr. Fukumoto had been in the restaurant business, and even did a work study program in Australia, while trying to decide what sort of establishment to open. When he returned to Hiroshima, he was torn between starting a hamburger place or pursuing his interest

in world beers sparked by that first Hoegaarden.

His wife suggested that he go with the beer. Lucky for us, he did.

In 2007, Golden Garden was established.

The original idea behind this bar was not as a microbrew brew bar, but rather as a bar where different sorts of beers from around the world would be available, whether they be Belgian

ales, German, wiezen, British porters, and so on. The bar is a quiet, dark and cozy room on the second floor of a building just off of Chuo-dori. It has the feeling of a tiny ‘brown-cafe’ style Dutch or Belgian pub. While Golden Garden still features many European drafts and bottles, Japanese and foreign microbrews have also started to be featured on the ever changing beer list - on GetHiroshima’s most recent visit, we had a draft Orange Chocolate stout from Japan’s first unofficial microbrewery, Kanazawa’s Sankt Gallen.

As these Japanese microbrews grew in popularity, Fukumoto decided to add another bar, one that featured only Japanese microbrews, and that, in short, is how Raku came to be.

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Raku Beer, has a decidedly different atmosphere from Golden Garden. It is airy, bright, smoke free, and very clean looking. Pressure valves top the nearly two dozen taps along the copper covered wall behind the bar, giving it something of a laboratory feel. Each and every glass is rinsed and cleaned again before the servers carefully pour the beers.

There is always a Yona Yona ale on the hand pulled cask system, which also often features another guest beer, most recently a fine oyster stout.

On the main taps, there’s a constantly rotating assortment of Japanese beers, often featuring breweries such as Osaka’s great Minoh - run by two sisters, the aforementioned Sankt Gallen, nearby Daisen-G, even closer Kure Kaigun beer, as well as others from the nearly 200 different Japanese microbreweries. The styles range from wiezens, porters, stouts (Minoh’s is world class), smoky rauch brews (Fujizakura Height’s Rahou has won awards globally), fruity beers in a lambic style, and even an occasional barley wine. If you are looking to try a variety of Japanese microbrews on draft, Raku has one of the best selections in Japan.

Kentaro Mitsuba (aka Ken) used to manage Raku, but his interest in American microbrews (and sports) led him to open his own place, Hangout, a year and a half ago. Tucked away in an alley on the other side of Chuo-dori, Hangout has heartier American IPAs, West Coast session ales, and potent Californian barley wines, along with NFL and NBA games on the TV. Ken also adds some appealing Japanese micros and even the occasional German draft, usually different from what you will find at the two bars already mentioned. He also keeps a small, but well stocked, fridge featuring such beers as San Diego’s Ballast Point and Northern California’s Lagunitas. They are not cheap, but you’ll remember that taste the next time you’re at a convenience store, choosing between Kirin and Suntory.

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For those of you who would just prefer bring microbrews home (or to my house, please), the wonderfully named Kimura’s Liquorland, near the prison in Yoshijima, supplies many of the establishments mentioned in this article. Many are not cheap and filling a case of beer could easily run nearly twenty thousand yen, but to be able to find a better selection of microbrews within a three hour drive would be impossible (It also makes you realise that that the markup in some bars is really not that much). Two other places worth mentioning are the chain Yamaya and the liquor shop in Aeon Mall in Gion, which carry several foreign and domestic microbrews as well as a selection of imported food. Finally, Yamato-ya in Ebisu-cho, along with an extensive collection of wines, sake and shochu, usually has a few regional microbrews.

Phi’s

Across town, behind Book Off on Rijo-dori, is Beer Pub Phi’s, owned by friendly Masao Kobayashi.

Mr. Kobayashi’s pub features three house drafts (including that Hoegaarden again), and an interesting selection of rotating drafts, recently featuring an amazing German Plank whisky barrel aged wiezen - often at special prices, making for some of the best beer bargains in the city. Phi’s also keeps an assortment of intriguing, and usually high end bottles of microbrews including Mikeller, Stone, and some of the best (and priciest) small batch Black Isle beers available in the region. One of my favorite features of Phi’s is the “Belgium conversation”; if you start chatting about beer with Mr. Kobayashi, eventually the topic of Belgian beers will come up. If you seem interested enough, he’ll send out one of his staff to move the colossal television that dominates the back of the room, to reveal a secret stash of remarkable blondes, dubbels, and saisons in a hidden refrigerator. Phi’s customers also seem to be the most outgoing of all of these bars, making this a nice place to stop by if you are on your own.

While you’re in the neighborhood of Phi’s, you might want to stop by Kemby’s, run by Prakash Lamichhane, where, in addition to international beers on tap, he keeps a refrigerator stocked with

a variety of foreign microbrew bottles, including Green Flash’s over the top hoppy IPA’s. Make sure to check the price, to avoid sticker shock later.

Conami

Some other restaurants that also have microbrews are Graffity in Fukuro-machi, Sanche in Hakushima and Conami in Yagenbori. Graffity stocks Rogue and Brooklyn along with their Coronas and Tecates.

Sanche is a teppanyaki place run by the affable “Patch”. He keeps three Japanese micros on tap, usually Daisen-G’s weizen, Hideji Beer’s lager and Nagisa’s excellent pale ale, at the best prices around. Sanche also offers all you can eat and drink specials, and is completely covered in purple Sanfrecce soccer team paraphernalia, looking like a great place to watch a game. Finally Conami is a smoky wine bar in the drinking district that usually features Minoh’s stout or double IPA on draft, as well as some bottled beer. Conami also has some of the funniest wall art we encountered on our wanderings.

Sanche

My favorite beers in Japan are actually probably those made by an exceptional delivery guy who shares his home-brew at our local neighborhood yakitori shop. Still, having traveled as far as Fukuoka’s Beer Paddy and Sapporo’s legendary Mugishutei to enjoy good beers, it’s reassuring to know that Hiroshima’s craft beer community is passionate and growing.

Special thanks to Karl Warsop for his help in researching this article. / See p.28 for map locations.

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ninoshima 似島 Ninoshima is perfect for a spring day-trip. It’s only a 20 minute ferry ride from Hiroshima Port, but stepping onto Ninoshima is like stepping back in time and for such a small island, it has plenty to offer the active explorer.

hiroshima’s “little fuji” Ninoshima is dominated by 278m Mt. Aki-nokofuji. The “little Fuji of the Aki region” which can be seen from many parts of Hiroshima city, stands directly opposite Hiroshima Port and making the hour long climb to the top is literally one of the highlights of a trip to Ninoshima. The trail takes you through narrow streets, orange groves, bamboo forests and between rocky outcrops to spectacular views over the city, neighboring Toge-shima Island and out to the shadowy clusters of Inland Sea islands to the south.

Access and getting around Ferries leave about once an hour throughout the day from Pier #5 at Hiroshima Port in Ujina. Adult ¥440, Child ¥220 Bicycle ¥160 (pay as you board) Ninoshima has amazingly good bilingual signage to its mountain trails and other attractions. Pick up the excellent bilingual map on the ferry or download it from here http://bit.ly/ninoshimamaps and it’s hard to go wrong.

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wartime and baumkuchen The history of now sleepy Ninoshima is intrinsically linked to Japan’s wartime past. At the start of the SinoJapanese War, a quarantine station was built on the island to process returning soldiers. The island is dotted with remnants of wartime. There are also memorials to the many of the 10,000 A-bomb victims transported to Ninoshima for treatment who did not survive. Among a number of Germans interned on Ninoshima during WWI was confectioner Karl Juchheim who made the first baumkuchen cake baked in Japan during his “stay.” Juchheim remained in Japan and started a successful confectionary company that is still in business today.

cycle island Ninoshima is relatively traffic-free and the 16km road that circles the island is great for biking.

Other than one steep climb at the southern end of the island, the road is relatively flat and the picturesque northern section is completely closed to cars, though keep an eye out for anglers as it’s a popular fishing spot. No bike? Pack a bento and do the loop on foot!

kids playground Active kids will enjoy clambering up Aki-no-kofuji, cycling and looking for shells on the beaches, but they will LOVE the adventure playground in the grounds of the Seinen-no-ie center on the former site of the quarantine station and the giant roller slide and zip-line above. The seawater pool and water slide don’t open for swimming until the summer holidays, but the kayaks available for rent from April are one of Hiroshima’s best kept secrets.

beaches Ninoshima isn’t known for its beaches, but ignore those in the southwest which tend to be covered in nautical detritus and you’ll find some gorgeous sandy coves with crystal clear water on the east coast. Great for a paddle as the temperatures start to rise.

warning As the temperatures rise, the hills of Ninoshima come alive with all kinds of cool-looking bugs and yes, snakes. Some of them venomous. I have noticed a lot of creepy-crawlies from early June, especially on the lesser trodden Mt Shimotaka trail. Keep your eyes peeled, tell someone where you are going and have a mobile phone if at all possible. In Japanese, but here are some photos of some the wildlife you might encounter http://bit. ly/ninoshimadanger

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SPONSORED ARTICLE

onan

slow life & gourmet food in hidden japan Although only just over an hour’s drive north of Hiroshima city, you can’t get much more off the beaten track than Onan.

Located in Shimane, Japan’s least visited prefecture, it is an excellent place to escape the crowds and get a real taste of rural Japan. Comprised of a group of farming communities linked by narrow valleys, the area is dotted with medieval hilltop castle sites and ancient shrines. An exploration of Onan, along its rivers, among its rice terraces and into its gorges, conjures images of the Japan of old.

The town is also looking to the future. While much of rural Japan is threatened by a shrinking and aging population, Onan is bucking the national trend. “We make raising children easier!” proclaims the town’s mascot, ‘Onan Sho’, modelled on the giant Ōsanshōuo salamander that inhabits local rivers. It may not exactly trip off the tongue, but the waiving of school fees and other incentives are attracting young families and the under 18 population is on the rise.

Further, by boosting its reputation for premium organic produce and gourmet cuisine, the town hopes to provide reasons for this new generation to stick around. Onan is also proving to be an attractive destination for “I-turn” entrepreneurs who are trading city life for the simple pleasures of the countryside.

There is in Onan, a vitality and optimism rare in many of Japan’s picturesque, but dwindling rural communities.

Many of Onan’s visitor facilities, such as Koboku-no-mori Herb Garden, eateries and onsen hot springs, are concentrated on the rim of the O-hochi Basin. It is from here that you may see the Unkai sea of clouds early on spring and autumn mornings, if conditions are right.

Gotsu

Hamada

Shimane Pref.

Onan Mizuho IC Chiyoda JCT

Hiroshima Pref.

Pick up maps and pamphlets at the tourist office at Koboku-no-mori Herb Garden (below the craft shop). English speaking staff Mon-Fri from April.

English content is also coming to http://www.ohnan-kanko.com/

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Hiroshima

seasonal events / matsuri Izuwa Hina Doll Festival / March 20 - April 3

Hana Momo Peach Blossoms / April 10

Ji-no-hi-matsuri / May 21-22

Over a thousand traditional hina dolls displayed in local shops and private houses. An excellent opportunity to peek behind those garden walls.

Beyond the gorgeous Kandani rice terraces, tiny Kaizumi village is ablaze with deep pink peach blossom and fields of bright yellow rapeseed flowers.

The highlights of this 650 year old festival are the parading of giant, brightly colored umbrellas and dynamic Iwami Kagura dance at Kamo Shrine.

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Koboku-no-mori Herb Garden This fragrant herb garden is a great example of Onan’s commitment to organic farming. Restaurant Kanmuri (open from mid-March) overlooks the garden.

Kiri-no-yu Onsen Onsen hot spring with indoor and outdoor baths.

There is also an informal canteen-style restaurant attached where you can sample Iwami wagyu beef among other Japanese fare.

Satoyama Italian AJIKURA The embodiment of Onan’s farm-to-plate rural revitalization project. Local vegetables and wagyu prepared Italian-style and served in a relaxed, but stylish atmosphere. Reservations in English OK.

Jomon-mura An eccentric Japanese Aladdin’s cave with a stunning view. Enjoy a hearty Japanese homestyle buffet or Japanese tea and sweets on the terrace or inside.

Uzui Station 20m above a mountain valley floor on the picturesque Sankou-sen train line that runs between Miyoshi and Gotsu, you have to climb 116 stairs to reach the platform. It’s quite a sight!

Gelateria Café Mui Fresh ice-cream made with 80% cow’s milk produced and pasteurized nearby, located just across the road from Koboku-no-mori Herb Garden. They offer soft-serve and cakes too.

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Noboricho Junior High School

Onaga Primary School

Hiroshima Bank

Shukkeien-mae

do

ONAGAMACHI

Katei Saibansho-mae

DANBARAHINODE

/25

ta

Shukkeien-mae

eb

KAMINOBORICHO

ri hima -do

OSUGACHO

i i-dor

ori ae-d

MATSUGAWA PARK

PARCO SHINKAN

MACHI

ri do aam Hi

DAN

Hijiyamashita

9 Molly Mallone’s

Merchant of Venice Sky Walk

7 6 i Washington Hotel

sh

Escalator 8

5 Golden Garden

OKONOMI MURA

DON QUIJOTTE

Koba 6

Namiki-dori

H

iya

ma

Chuo-dori

Hij

11 Raku Beer

Bourbon 3 Square

Hijiyamabashi

bas

hi

7 Mac

Bon Voyage 3F Enryuji Temple (Tokasan)

DANBARAYAMAS

2 Choi Choi Ya H

BILLY THE KID

H

3 Danbara Conami Shopping Center

DANBARAMINAMI

New King 10

H

namiki / nagarekawa area

4 Centre Point

Micks 9

Tropical Bar Revolución 13

FUKUROMACHI PARK

DANBARA

2 Chante!

1 Bar Edge

18 Youin

2

H

26\

H H

-d o

ba

MINA

Butsudan-dori

Hangout

mi

H

HIJIYAMA PARK

SHINTENCHI PARK

Kinzagai-dori

ALICE GARDEN

uru

2 Yamatoya

12 Sake no Sakana

a

Takeya Primary School

Danbara-1chome

H

KIRIN BEER

Ts

HIROSHIMA BANK

MOMIJI BANK

MITSUKOSHI

i i sh sh ga ba Hi ima Ebisu 2 Popeye sh Ebisu-dori Shrine ro Hi Ebisu-dori Ebisu-dori

Kanayama-cho

Yagenbori-dori

nbor Yage

T

hi

as

ob

h ais

Ekim

ori

wa-d

reka

Naga

MATOBACHO

Ebisu-cho

NISHIKANIYA

Hiroshima Mall

shigaw

Shopping Center

HIGASHIKOJINMACHI

NISHIKOJINMACHI

a

18

LABI

PARCO HONKAN

TSURUMICHO Hakuri Tabai Hanbey 6 Fuji Grand

H

Matoba-cho

H

/ Densha-dori HAioi-dori Yanagibas hi

PARK Kinzagai-dori

B

H

aw

ashi

H

i

hi

kog

Inarioh

Hondori

b

Ake 7

bas

2 ori

-d ono

H

HIGASHIHIRATSUKACHO 3 Cinetwin Hondori H Chano-ma 1 HIRATSUKA

or

KOJINMACHI

E

H

Inari-machi

Kyoba

TANAKAMACHI

-d

H

6 Hatchoza

NISHIHIRATSUKACHO

ATAGOMAC

HIGA

Enkobashi-cho

i

ash nkob

jin

FUKUYA

Southern Cross YAYOICHO 12

KAWACHO

H

ENKOBASHICHO Hana Hostel

Ko

INARIMACHI

YAGENBORI Tate-machi

H

MATSUBARACHO

Kyobashi

TENCHI

ae

Hiroshima Bank

H

KANAYAMACHO

H

En

Hiroshima Bank

Momiji Bank

WAKAKUSACHO

Hiroshima Station

Fukuya

14

H H Kanayama-cho

Mitsukoshi abi

CHI

i

KYOBASHICHO

HASHIMOTOCHO

H

RIKAWACHO

10

H

7

or

Kam iy bas anagi hi

HASHIMOTOCHO PARK

EBISUCHO

6

-d

H

Hatchobori Ebisu-cho

ku

3 Hotel Flex

Memorial Cathedral for World Peace

NOBORICHO PARK

ri

ho

H

H

JR HIROSHIMA STATION

Jo

H

TOBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

NOBORICHO

a-do

SHINKANSEN

H

jiy

Haku s

TEPPOCHO

ashi

Saka

H Noboricho Primary School

i

H

Noboricho Junior High School

KAMI NOBORICHO PARK

H

Hiroshima Bank

or

ri

Jogakuin High School

Jogakuin-mae

-d

H

ae

Jogakuin Junior High School

H

ba

Ek o- ima ha e sh i

station area

Nagarekawa-dori

A

Fu

17

im

5

KAMIOSUGACHO

SHUKKEIEN GARDEN

13

Ek

6

3

B Cinematographic and Audio-visual Library

H

11 Tennis courts

3

C

Legal Administration Office

ri

n-do

Jona

YMCA

H

H

Chokakuji Temple

Jogakuin-mae

KYUGUCHIMON PARK Chuo Police Station Prefectural Office East Office

Momiji Bank

16

Enryuji Temple (Tokasan)

H

5

Jogakuin High School

Shukkeien-mae

Jogakuin Junior High School

H

H

Noboricho Junior High School

KAMI NOBORICHO PARK

KAMINOBORICHO

H

KANAYAMACHO

YAYOICHO

hi

ebas

D

Saka

H

TOBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

3

H

or i

OSUGACHO

Hijiyamashita

8

3

JR

Fukuya

Hirosh Ban

H

H

Mato

MATOBACH

-d

Jo ho ku

1

H

2

MATSUGAWA PARK

Inari-machi

KYOBASHICHO

Kam iy bas anagi hi

H

Kyobashi

shi

Inarioha

INARIMACHI

i i sh sh ga ba Hi ima sh ro

H Yanagibashi

Hi

i

sh

iba

shigaw

a

D

Hijiyamabashi

rum

Kyoba

HIRATSUKA PARK

shi

Ts u

HIGASHIHIRATSUKACHO

NISHIHIRATSUKACHO

H

Hiroshima Bank

H H Kanayama-cho

HASHIMOTOCHO PARK

HASHIMOTOCHO

Noboricho Primary School Memorial Cathedral for World Peace

NOBORICHO

TEPPOCHO

H

Takeya Primary School

TSURUMICHO

TANAKAMACHI

i or -d ae

H

MIKAWACHO NAGAREKAWACHO

H

oro

er-d

met

13 im Ek

Fuji Grand Shopping Center

TAKARAMACHI

Momiji Bank

NOBORICHO PARK

Ebisu-cho

Hatchobori

Mitsukoshi Labi

dori

sha-

Den

Tokyu Hands

HATCHOBORI

E

EBISUCHO HORIKAWACHO

-dor i

bisu

Fukuya

i-do ri /

Tate-machi Aio

de)

arca

TATEMACHI

H

Hiroshima Municipal Hospital

Kencho-mae Prefectural Office (Kencho)

Kamiya-cho Higashi

1

KAMIYACHO 1

Hiroshima Bank

Bus 1 Center (3F)

SOGO

Mizuho Bank

Kamiya-cho Nishi Rijo 15 Kaikan Sun Mall Sumitomo Mitsui Bank

i

2 HANOVER PARK

FORMER BASEBALL STADIUM SITE

5

OTEMACHI 1

1

Hondori

Mitsubishi Tokyo Hondo r UFJ Bank 4F

red

i (co ve

HONDORI

ash

Outdoor 2 Family Pool Open July-August

Aioib ashi

11

Genbaku Dome-mae Hiroshima Naka Post Office

1

u oyas Mot shi ba

5 4

9

H

NAKAMACHI

/ Pe a

aku

FUJIMICHO

d/ Hy

ce B lv

H

Buts PARCO Hiroshima uda n-do Information ri Former ALICE SHINTENCHI Plaza 3 4 Bank of FUKUROMACHI GARDEN Japan Don Fukuromachi FUKUROMACHI Fukuro-machi YAGENBORI Quijotte SHINTENCHI Primary PARK PARK School H H

Crystal H

dori

a-o-

KOMACHI

Heiw

10 Plaza

1 Dormy inn Chuden-mae

H

Shirakami Shrine

10

H

OTEMACHI PARK 1

5

H

wab

PARK

TOKAICHIMACHI

HONKAWACHO

Honkawa-cho

9

PEACE PARK

12

a-oh ashi

Heiw

H

Kokutaiji High School

Hei

HIROSEMACHI

A

Tokaichi-machi

11 15

Honkawa Primary School

HONKAWA PARK

Ho nk bas awa hi

14

Tsuchiya Hospital

H

8 16

OTEMACHI

SEIBUKAGAN RYOKUCHI PARK

OTEMACHI PARK 2

Hiroshima Chuo Post Office Naka Ward Office

Kokutaiji Junior High School

15

Hij iya

ma ba

Ek

NISHITOKAICHIMACHI

1

5

DOBASHICHO

HONKAWACHO

NEKOYACHO

J-Hoppers

12

NAKAJIMACHO

4 Ikawa Ryokan

Bunka Koryu Kaikan

Aster Plaza

KAKOMACHI

Shiyakusho mae

KOKUTAIJI PARK

A

ri

/27

i

sh

ENOMACHI

ENOMACHI PARK

SAKAIMACHI Koami-cho Dobashi

KOAMICHO

2 KAWARAMACHI

Na Kan kajima zakib ash i

Funairi-machi

Kozaki Primary School Nakajima Primary School

Otemachi Commercial High School

Hiroshima City Hall

TAKEYACHO

C

ori

ae-d

a-do shim Haku ori

i

Shin-sum iyoshi bashi

HIGASHI SENDA PARK

Naga

o- ima GetHiroshima / Spring 2016 ha e

ri

Chuo

wa-d

reka

B

do

a-

am

nbor

Yage

ori

iki-d Nam

a)

14 Ta Shopkanobas hi ping Stre et

B

Takanobashi

dori

jiy

i

i-dor

KAMISHINONOMECHO

SAKI

Ekim

dori

aw

i-dor mach Tera

shiba shi

hi ibas Meij

17

Jizo-

Sky Walk Escalator

HIJIYAMA

Hi

-dori

NBARAHINODE

ri

UNAIRIMACHI

3 Sum iyo

A

-do Ozu

AMIKANIYA

awa

Geibi Line

Rijo-

COSTCO

MAZDA ZOOM ZOOM STADIUM

yasug

e

Ky a( aw

nk Ho

tag

nsen

ONAGAHIGASHI ONAGANISHI

u-o

Shinka

Sanyo

ri do o-

ASHIKANIYACHO

on eb Ak

CHI

Onaga Primary School

Moto

Lin ain oM ny Sa

city center

C

onmachi

Junior High School

List of places

Map A: p.26 Map B: p. 26 Map C: p.27

CULTURE

HE ALTH & BE AUT Y 1

Cleo Hair International - Map C [B-1]

2

Family Pool - Map C [B-1] (Open July - August)

3

Green Arena Gym & Pool - Map C [B-1]

1

A-Bomb Dome - Map C [B-1]

6

Kanawa ASSE - Map A

4

Higashi-ku Sports Center (Big Wave) - Map p.25 [D-1]

2

Children’s museum - Map C [A-2]

7

Kanawa Kaki Meian - Map A

5

Laff Hair Design - Map C [B-1]

3

Cinetwin Hondori - Map B

8

Kissui - Map C [B-2]

6

M’n Chiropractic - Map A

4

Former Bank of Japan - Map C [B-2]

9

Micks - Map B

5

Gallery G - Map A

10

Mokuren Okonomiyaki & Teppanyaki - Map A

6

Hatchoza Cinema - Map B

11

Nagataya Okonomiyaki - Map C [B-1]

7

Hiroshima City International House - Map A

12

Otis! - Map C [A-2]

8

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art Map C [D-3]

13

Rojiura Teppan Kotaro - Map C [C-3]

1

Global Lounge - Map C [C-1]

9

Hiroshima City Tourist Information - Map C [B-2]

14

Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki - Map A

2

Popeye Media Cafe Ebisu-dori - Map B

10

Hiroshima International Center - Map C [B-2]

15

Tokaichi Apartment - Map C [A-1]

3

Popeye Media Cafe Hondori - Map C [C-1]

11

Hiroshima Museum of Art - Map C [B-1]

16

Viale - Map C [B-2]

12

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum - Map C [B-2]

17

Warung Matahari - Map C [B-3]

13

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum - Map A

18

Youin - Map B

14

International Exchange Lounge - Map C [A-2]

15

Rijo Kaikan Kenmin Bunka Center - Map C [B-1]

16

Salon Cinema 1/2 - Map C [B-3]

17

Shimizu Gekijo - Map A

18

Shukkeien Garden - Map A

ACCOMMODATION

INTERNE T

FASHION SHOPPING 1

Baby the stars shine bright - Map C [B-1]

NIGHTLIFE PL ACES FE ATURED IN THIS ISSUE 1

Bar Edge - Map B

2

Bon Voyage - Map B

1

Chano-ma - Map B

p.45

3

Bourbon Square - Map B

2

Chante! - Map B

p.43

4

Centre Point - Map B

3

Conami - Map B

p.17

5

Kemby’s - Map C [B-2]

4

Ginzo - p.24 [B-2]

p.45

1

Dormy Inn - Map C [B-2]

6

Koba - Map B

5

Golden Garden - Map B

p.15

2

Hana Hostel - Map A

7

Mac - Map B

6

Hakuri Tabai Hanbey - Map B

p.42

3

Hotel Flex - Map A

8

Merchant of Venice - Map B

7

Hangout - Map B

p.16

4

Ikawa Ryokan - Map C [A-2]

9

Molly Malone’s - Map B

8

Hotel 55 - p.24 [B-4]

p.43

5

J-Hoppers Hiroshima - Map C [A-2]

10

New King - Map B

9

Obscura Coffee Roasters - Map C [B-2]

p.45

6

Washington Hotel - Map B

11

Organ-za - Map C [A-1]

10

Phi’s - Map C [B-2]

p.17

12

Southern Cross - Map B

11

Raku Beer - Map B

p.16

13

Tropical Bar Revolución - Map B

12

Sake no Sakana - Map B

p.44

13

Sanche - p.24 [C-2]

p.17

14

Takanobashi Arcade - Map C [B-3]

p.43

15

Teranishi Coffee Honten - Map C [C-3]

p.44

RESTAUR ANT & CAFES SHOPPING

1

Artcafe ELK - Map C [B-1]

2

Choi Choi Ya - Map B

3

Graffity Mexican Diner - Map C [C-2]

1

Outsider Book Nook / Global Lounge - Map C [C-1]

4

Kanak - Map C [B-2]

2

Yamatoya - Map B

5

Kanawa (Kaki-fune) - Map C [B-2]

kanak Delicious, healthy, additive-free Indian food right next to Peace Park. Excellent lunch sets. Indian pub-style atmosphere at night with many a la carte dishes to choose from as well as curry meals.

Curry lunch sets from ¥780 Free refills of rice/nan at lunch Vegetarian, vegan and Halal food.

A la carte Kids sets ¥500 ~¥590 (ex tax) Party room available

Lunch 11:00-15:00 (L.O. 14:30) Dinner 17:00-22:30 (L.O. 22:00) 082-236-7308 Map C p.27 [B-2] 4

Dormy Inn

Hana Hostel

On Peace Blvd, very close to Peace Memorial Park. Free WiFi in all rooms. Free washing machine. Great traditional bath.

Single: ¥6500, Double: ¥9000, Twin: ¥11,500 082-240-1177 map C p.27 [B-2] 1

Clean and friendly. 3min from Hiroshima Sta. Common lounge and kitchen. Dorm beds from ¥2500, Private twin rooms from ¥3200/person.

No curfew, Free LAN/WiFi, Rental cycles 082-263-2980 map A p.26 2

Hotel Flex

Ikawa Ryokan

Stylish riverside hotel, rates include breakfast Singles ¥6825, Doubles from ¥11,555 The upper floor suites are really cool.

082-223-1000 map A p.26 3

Cozy, home-like atmosphere.

Japanese and Western rooms. Coin laundry.

S from ¥5940 / Twin ¥9720 / Tr ¥14,580 Quad ¥17,280 / Breakfast ¥756 www.ikawaryokan.net info@ikawaryokan.net 082-231-5058 map C p.27 [A-2] 4

J-Hoppers Hiroshima

Washington Hotel

Friendly base in an interesting neighborhood near Peace Park.

No curfew, Kitchen, Rental cycles Dorm beds from ¥2500, Private rooms from ¥3000/person map C p.27 [A-2] 5 082-233-1360

Hospitality, amenity and security right in the heart of Hiroshima.

All rooms equipped with great bathrooms and separate lavatory. WiFi in all rooms

Restaurants displaying this sign have a special English guide to ordering and getting the most out of your Hiroshima Okonomiyaki experience.

http://washington-hotels.jp/hiroshima/ 082-553-2222 map B p.26 6

Artcafe ELK 2nd floor cafe near Peace Park. Good sandwich lunches, drinks, vegetarian menu. Ask about vegan and gluten free dishes and their vegan desserts. International exchange spot.

10:30-22:00 (L.O. 21:30) 082-247-4443 map C p.27 [B-1] 2F 1

Cafe Lente

Find out more about Hiroshima's favorite dish at http://okonomiyaki.or.jp/

Escape the Miyajima crowds at this beautifully designed cafe. Wooden terrace. Great view of the floating torii gate, especially after dark.

From 11:00 Located along the water inlet between Kiyomori Shrine & Miyajima Aquarium.

Choi Choi Ya

Graffity Mexican Diner

Shiho serves Hiroshima tsukemen, yaki-ramen (fish stock base), side dishes and drinks in a relaxed atmosphere.

Eat, drink or both at the counter or a street-side table.

Can get quite lively late at night.

20:30-03:00 Closed Sundays & hols that fall on a weekday map B p.26 2

Homemade Mexican and US style foods in this family run-diner.

Micks

Mokuren Okonomiyaki & Teppanyaki

Lively and friendly izakaya. Casual atmosphere with good food, Japanese & western. Great selection of local sake.

11:30-14:00 (L.O. 13:20), 18:00-24:00 (L.O. 23:00) 082-243-3669 map C p.27 [C-2] 4F 3

Sun-Thur 18:00-3:00, Fri, Sat, days before Hols 18:00-5:00 Closed Wed 082-249-6231 map B p.26 9

Traditional and creative Hiroshima Okonomiyaki and a wide range of grilled teppan dishes on the 6th Floor of the Full Focus building across from Hiroshima JR Station. Local oysters, sake and ice cold draft beer too.

10:00-23:00 (L.O. 22:30) 082-568-7850 map A p.26 10

Nagataya

Otis!

Great okonomiyaki and plenty of space to sit, a stone’s throw away from Peace Park. Excellent understanding of vegetarian needs.

Tex Mex and home-cooked food for meat eaters & vegetarians. Their vegetarian menu is one of the best in the city & includes vegan and gluten free dishes. Kids very welcome. Eclectic BGM & live music.

11:30-22:30 (L.0.)

082-249-3885 map C p.27 [A-2] 12

Mon-Fri 11:00-20:30 (L.O.) Sat 11:00-21:00 (L.O.) Sun, hols 10:30-20:30 (L.O) (Closed Tue & 4th Wed) 082-247-0787 map C p.27 [B-1] 11

Rojiura Teppan Kotaro Young grill master Kotaro serves delicious seasonal dishes & drinks just off Peace Blvd.

Sarii-chan Okonomiyaki

17:00-02:00 (L.O. 01:30) Closed Tuesdays 082-249-1953 map C p.27 [C-3] 2F 13

Affable, soccer-loving okonomiyaki-ist serving Hiroshima’s favorite dish and drinks near Hiroshima Station.

11:30-14:00, 17:00-23:00 Closed Saturdays 082-236-7303 map A p.26 2F 14

Tokaichi Apartment

Warung Matahari

Quirky smoke free cafe in Tokaichi with some very interesting seating options. ¥850 set lunches served 16:30.

Excellent Indonesian cuisine prepared by Balinese chef Surasna. Vegetarian and Halal friendly. If you like it really spicy, ask Surasna to let you have it!

17:30-22:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 34 082-240-2082 map C p.27 [B-3] 17

11:30-23:00 (lunch L.O. 16:30) Closed Tuesdays 082-231-9865 map C p.27 [A-1] 1F 15

Youin 陽陰 washoku bar Cheerful and mild-mannered “Take” Shimosaka has created something quite remarkable. Youin is relaxed enough to just enjoy a few drinks, but also offers some quite excellent Japanese cuisine which would be crazy to pass up. Take’s skill is immediately evident on presentation of the meticulously prepared Kyo-ryori dishes of his native Kyoto and modern washoku. The flavors he draws out of his seasonal and all-natural ingredients are simply exceptional.

082-249-7129 / 2F Nakagawa Bldg, 8-11 Nagarekawa-cho, Naka-ku 20:00-05:00 Map B p.26 18 facebook.com/youin.hiroshima

Bar Edge

Bon Voyage

Small underground club with a good sound system.

International bar with counter and 2 discount rooms in which to chill. Nice cocktails and some great food too.

082-248-8146 map B p.26 1

Mon-Thur, Sun 18:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00-04:00 082-249-2380 map B p.26 3F 2

Bourbon Square

Centre Point

Relaxed counter bar near Shintenchi Park. Great selection of bourbon, whiskies and fresh fruit cocktails. Plus some of the best tasting draft beer in the drinking district.

Mon-Sat 18:00-03:00, Sun 18:00-24:00 082-242-3668, map B p.26 2F 3

Nagarekawa bar catering to a late night crowd that prides itself on its whiskey selection. DJs spinning at weekends, good source of local nightlife info.

Tue-Thur 20:00-03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00-05:00, Sun 20:00-01:00 map B p.26 5F 4

Koba Rock loving BOM is one of Hiroshima’s most welcoming and entertaining bartenders. He whips up some very tasty food too.

Kemby’s www.facebook.com/kembyshiroshima High quality food in a casual atmosphere. Kemby’s has all the bases covered with tapas, pasta,Tex Mex, gourmet sausages, seafood and their famous burgers. Owner Prakash prides himself on his wine list and is happy to help you make the right choice.

The full drink menu includes international beers on draft and a selection of imported craft beers. Happy hours 17:30-00:30 selected alcohol ¥200 off Sun-Thur 17:30-24:30 (Food L.O. 23:30) Fri & Sat 17:30-01:00 (Food L.O. 24:30) / 082-249-6201 map C p.27 [B-2] 5

18-00-01:30 (L.O), Closed Wednesdays 082-249-6556 map B p.26 3F 6

Mac Legendary Hiroshima watering hole with massive CD collection.

18:00-late Closed Sundays 082-243-0343 map B p.26 2F 7

Merchant of Venice

New King

Chilled out drinking space with subdued lighting offering some interesting Japanese themed cocktails at the bar counter or in the darts lounge.

19:00-04:00 (L.O. 03:30) Closed Mondays 082-240-1155 map B p.26 3F 8

Trendy and Pink, 2F bar run by the guys behind local hip men’s underwear boutique.

21:00-05:00 082-247-4487 map B p.26 2F 10

Organ-za Bohemian queen, Goto Izumi's avant guard center of operations. Great decor, food, drink and bizarre stage shows.

Tue-Fri 17:30-01:30 (L.O.), Sat 11:30-01:30 (L.O.) Sun 11:30-23:30 (L.O.) Closed Mondays 082-295-1553 map C p.27 [A-1] 2F 11

Molly Malone’s

www.facebook.com/mollymaloneshiroshima Hiroshima’s authentic Irish pub. Great beer, great food, great service. The place to watch Premier League soccer.

Tues-Thurs 17:00~01:00 / Fri 17:00~02:00 / Sat 11:30~02:00 / Sun + Nat Hol 11:30~24:00 / Closed Monday / 082-244-2554 map B p.26 4F 9

Tropical Bar Revolución Nobu’s popular 8F hangout, friendly and relaxed complete with balcony.

Southern Cross Spacious ex-pat bar particularly with an antipodean theme. Room to breathe in a smoke free atmosphere. www.facebook.com/southerncrosshiroshima 18:00-01:00 082-236-3396 map B p.26 4F 12

Outsider Book Nook/Global Lounge Used English books to buy or exchange. Internet, cafe & meeting place. Lunches daily, bar from 19:00 Fri & Sat.

18:00-03:00~04:00 Closed Sun, hols map B p.26 8F 13

Mon-Thurs 12:00-21:00 Fri & Sat 12:00-23:00, Closed Sun, hols 082-244-8145 map C p.27 [C-1] 1 1

Yamatoya

Cleo Hair International

Produced in limited quantities yet reasonably priced, a bottle of Hiroshima's top quality local Japanese sake makes for a great souvenir. www.piconet.co.jp/yamatoya/

Pamper yourself in this state of the art beauty salon on the 9th floor of the PACELA shopping center.

09:00-22:00 Closed Sundays 082-241-5660 map B p.26 2

10:00-20:00 082-511-2470 map C p.27 [B-1] 9F 1

Laff Hair Design Ippei’s skills and service have made him a huge hit among Hiroshima’s international community.

082-504-7636 (English line) map C p.27 [B-1] 5

M’n Chiropractic Dr. Naoki Morimoto trained in the US, speaks English and is highly recommended by one of our writers. Consultation & treatment ¥5000/ session http://mnchiropractic.jp/ Appointments by reservation only 080-962-5091 map A p.26 3F 6 Wed afternoon,Thurs, Sun & Nat Hols

Visit us online

Media Cafe Popeye Hondori / Ebisu-dori So much more than Internet in 2 city centre locations Internet access (PC), Free soft drinks, Shower rooms available (additional charge), Overnight stay OK Open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week Popeye Ebisu-dori map B p.26 2 Popeye Hondori map C p.27 [C-2] 3

gethiroshima.com

EVENTS SUPER BURLESQUE

CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL

f May 22, Open 19:00/Start 20:00

f April 16-17

f Organza

f Former site of the baseball stadium opposite A-bomb Dome

Hiroshima’s underground queen Goto Izumi (p.40) joins the “Cabaret Japonesque” burlesque extravaganza in Tokaichi..

Adv ¥3000 Door¥3500 (+ 1 drink order) Izumi Goto (Hiroshima) Cherry Typhoon (Kyoto) Safi(Tokyo) Lou on the Rocks (Berlin)

CONNECT SAKAGURA-DORI ART FESTIVAL

f Hiroshima City Botanical Gardens

f March 13-21

YOKOGAWA FUSHIGI ICHI & WONDER CARNIVAL

Art, music and sake among

f April 26

the breweries of Saijo in

Neighborhood street festival with fun & games, cheap food

Higashihiroshima.

and drink and a public cosplay event.

http://www.art-connect.me/

ST PATRICK’S DAY PARTY

SKATE WORLD

f March 17

YOGA PEACE

f Molly Malone’s

f April 23-24

Live music, special drinks and giveaways. No cover charge.

Two days of yoga practice and seminars on the sacred island of Miyajima. http://www.hiroshima-yogapeace.com/

YOKOGAWA INTERNATIONAL CHARITY ART FESTIVAL f April 24 (Opening party 4/23 18:00) f Seed Art Laboratory, Yokogawa

http://www.yokogawa-art.org

f May 3-May 5 f Hiroshima Flower Festival

A delightfully incongruous oasis of anarchy within the squeaky clean Flower Festival. A DIY mini skate park, bands and DJs playing on a truck right behind the main Carnation Stage.

MUSIC MAN WITH A MISSION f April 13, 19:00 f Blue Live

¥4300 + one drink order

ILLUMINATED SAKURA CHERRY BLOSSOMS f March 24-April 3 f Shukkei-en Garden f April 2, 3, 9, 10

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PUFFY 20TH ANNIVERSARY TOUR f April 17, 17:00 f Club Quattro

¥5400 + one drink order

OUTDOOR

FARMERS MARKETS

GANSU INTERNATIONAL HIKING GROUP OUTINGS

HIROSHIMA MINATO MARCHE

f March 16

f Ujina Port, Ujina

f March 6 & 20, April 3 & 17, May 1 & 15

Kōriyama Castle Ruins in Aki-Takata City f Early April

Hiking & Hanami on Sagi island (Mihara city) f Early May

REGULAR CLUB NIGHTS

Mt. Oyorogi (Shobara City)

EASY SKANKING

https://gansunetwork.wordpress.com/

f every 2nd Tuesday f Centre Point / Dancehall, Reggae

YOAKEMAE EASTERN YOUTH, ZAZEN BOYS f April 24

HIBA-YAMA SKYLINE TRAIL RACE f May 17

ALL OR NOTHING

Beautiful 99% trail races over 18.5km and 9km with some

f every Friday

killer climbs. (Entry deadline April 13)

f Centre Point / Punk, rock, garage, soul, etc

HIROSHIMA OSORAKAN TRAIL RACE

EURASIAN SUITE

f May 29

f Bar Edge / Soul, Jazz, Old school House

f Club Quattro

¥4000 (¥4500 door) + one drink order

f every 4th Thursday

Hiroshima’s first trail ultra marathon. A tough 60km course with 4100m of elevation gain and a 20km version for begin-

COMPACT

ners. (Entry deadline April 22) http://osorakan-trail.com/

f every 3rd Wednesday f Bar Edge / Electro, House, Techno

SEA TO SUMMIT f May 21-22

WHAT ABOUT WEDNESDAY?

f Etajima Island

f every 3rd Wednesday @ Centre Point

Good intro to adventure style racing. Early entry recom-

POLYSICS

mended if you’d like to reserve a kayak.

ULTRA HAZE

f May 22, 17:00

http://www.montbell.jp/

f every 2d Sunday

f 4.14

¥3800

f Bar Edge / Techno, Dubstep, Drum n’ bass, Reggae

KIDS TOMICA LAND IN HIROSHIMA f March-19-27 10:00-16:30

THE CLUB ROCKS f every 3rd Friday f Bar Edge / Rock, Soul, House

f NTT CRED Hall, Motomachi CRED, Pacela 11F

SOUL FOOD

Much-loved Tomica die-cast toy car playland in Pacela.

f every last Thursday @ Centre Point / Soul, Funk

¥600 (¥700 door)

IN DA DINING SOIL&”PIMP”SESSIONS f May 27, 18:00

FLEA MARKETS

f every last Friday f Lotus (March, May) f Bar Edge (April) / Hip-Hop, Soul, House

f Club Quattro

SENDA WASSHOI FLEA MARKET

¥4300

f March 20 (March 21), April 3 (April 24), April 17

IZMICAL

(April 24), May 8 (May 29), May 22 (May 29)

f every 4th Friday @ Bar Edge / Eclectic dance

f Higashi Senda Park

Date in () alternative date in case of cancellation due to bad

DUBWAY

weather

f every 3rd Friday @ Mugen 5610 / Dub

KINTAI-KYO BRIDGE FESTIVAL FLEA MARKET

Go to gethiroshima.com/events for more details about these and many more events.

f April 29

GetHiroshima / Spring 2016

/33

SPORT

Fan fantastic Hiroshima Carp baseball and Sanfrecce soccer games are great opportunities to see locals letting their hair down. In the bleachers or in the back of a taxi, sports talk is always great for breaking the ice.

SANFRECCE They’ll probably always be runners up in the hearts of locals, but Sanfrecce are without a doubt, the best football team in Japan right now. They have won the J-League title 3 times in the last 4 seasons. Unfortunately being the best team in the league doesn’t get you the best home. A 35 minute ride out of town to a stadium built for athletics that’s so big even a crowd of 35,000 doesn’t fill it.

Sanfrecce’s vociferous fans do their best to create an atmosphere though. Club and supporters have been lobbying for the purpose-built stadium they deserve. Hopefully they will get it soon.

Alex Rey

HIROSHIMA TOYO CARP

Photo by m-louis.® under a Creative Commons BY-SA 2.0 license www.flickr.com/m-louis/

Watching the Hiroshima Carp at Mazda “Zoom Zoom” Stadium is one of Hiroshima’s greatest spectacles. Baseball fan or not, you won’t easily forget the experience.

Tickets start at ¥1700 for general admission in the upper deck infield. Hardcore fans are to be found in the “Performance” zone, with its band and male cheerleaders in traditional garb. Most regular fans, however, opt for ¥2100 lower right deck seats which have a good atmosphere and plenty of opportunity to meet locals. Make sure to buy a pack of Carp balloons (¥400 for a pack of 4) from one of the roving vendors to set off in the seventh inning stretch when thousands of them fill the air.

Carp Home Game Schedule All games played at Mazda Stadium unless stated.

Pre-season 3/5 (13:00) vs Seibu Lions 3/6 (12:30) vs Seibu Lions 3/10 (13:00) vs Yakult Swallows 3/12 (13:00) vs Yokohama DeNA BayStars 3/13 (13:00) vs Yokohama DeNA BayStars (in Fukuyama) 3/21 (14:00) vs Softbank Hawks

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Central League 3/25 (18:00) vs Yokohama Baystars 3/26 (14:00) vs Yokohama Baystars 3/27 (13:30) vs Yokohama Baystars 4/1 (18:00) vs Yomiuri Giants 4/2 (14:00) vs Yomiuri Giants 4/3 (13:30) vs Yomiuri Giants 4/5 (18:00) vs Yakult Swallows 4/6 (18:00) vs Yakult Swallows 4/13 (18:00) vs Chunichi Dragons (in Kure) 4/13 (18:00) vs Chunichi Dragons 4/14 (18:00) vs Chunichi Dragons 4/22 (18:00) vs Hanshin Tigers 4/23 (14:00) vs Hanshin Tigers 4/24 (13:30) vs Hanshin Tigers 4/29 (18:00) vs Chunichi Dragons 4/30 (14:00) vs Chunichi Dragons 5/1 (13:30) vs Chunichi Dragons 5/6 (18:00) vs Yokohama DeNA BayStars 5/7 (14:00) vs Yokohama DeNA BayStars 5/8 (13:00) vs Yokohama DeNA BayStars 5/17 (18:00) vs Yakult Swallows 5/18 (18:00) vs Yakult Swallows 5/19 (18:00) vs Yakult Swallows 5/24 (18:00) vs Yomiuri Giants 5/25 (18:00) vs Yomiuri Giants 5/26 (18:00) vs Yomiuri Giants

Sanfrecce J-league Home Games 3/12 (13:00) vs Shonan Belmare 4/1 (19:30) vs Vegalta Sendai 4/15 (19:30) vs Albirex Niigata 5/8 (16:00) vs Sangan Tosu 5/13 (19:30) vs Kashiwa Reysol 5/21 (16:00) vs Gamba Osaka (postponed to 6/22 if Sanfrecce make the last 16 of the Asian Champions League)

AFC Champions League 3/16 (18:00) vs Buriram United (Hiroshima Koikikoen Rikujo Kyogijo) 5/4 (19:30) vs FC Seoul (Hiroshima Koikikoen Rikujo Kyogijo)

ART

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

Hiroshima Museum of Art

Well-designed building in Hijiyama hilltop park. Interesting

One of the largest art museums in Western Japan with a

Works by Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso and many more great

sculptures and statues are dotted around the outside of the

large collection of Japanese nihonga painting, traditional

modern European painters in this small, but perfectly

Asian art crafts and 1920s and 1930s art. Map A p.22 13

formed museum near Hiroshima Castle. Map C p.23 11

10:00-17:00 Admission to the collection exhibition: Adult

09:00-17:00 Admission to the permanent collection Adult

09:00-17:00 Admission to the general exhibition: Adult

¥370, College students ¥270, High school students, seniors

¥510, College students ¥310, High school students and

¥1000, Seniors ¥500, College & high school students ¥500,

¥170, Junior High School and younger free.

younger free.

Junior high school and elementary school students ¥200

082-264-1121 http://www.hiroshima-moca.jp/

082-221-6246 http://www.hpam.jp/

082-223-2530 http://www.hiroshima-museum.jp/

museum that can be viewed for free. Map C p.23

8

Admission until 30 minutes before closing. Special exhibition charges vary and usually include admission to permanent collections. Closed Mondays (unless National Holiday when closed the following business day).Hiroshima Museum of Art and Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum open everyday during special exhibitions.

EXHIBITIONS

Dinh Q. Lê: Memory for Tomorrow Exhibition changes

The 62nd Japan Traditional Kōgei - Art Crafts -

March 19 - May 15

Exhibition

Adult ¥1030, College ¥720, High school & Seniors ¥510

Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

Gallery G Map A p.22 5

Yutaka Edogawa, Bowl with Silver and Overglaze Enamel Decoration, Takamatsunomiya Memorial Prize

Until March 13 / Adult ¥700 High school/college ¥400

The Last Impressionists: 1900-1920s Paris

Private art space opposite the Prefectural Art Museum which holds weekly free exhibitions by local artists, designers and artisans. 082-211-3260

Dinh Q. Lê, Untitled (Paramount), 2003. Collection: Ann and Mel Schaffer Family, New York Photo courtesy: Bellevue Arts Museum, WA

Venice: Five Centuries of the World’s Most

The 400th Anniversary of Death of Tokugawa

Alluring City from the Museum of Fine Arts,

Ieyasu. History and Treasures of the Tokugawa

Boston

Shogunate: Peace Reigns over the Land

Hiroshima Museum of Art

Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum

April 9 - June 12 / Adult ¥1400 High school/college ¥1000

April 1 - May 29 / Adult ¥1200 High school/college ¥700

Elementary/junior high ¥600

Hiroshima Museum of Art Until 27 March, 2016 / Adult ¥1300 Senior, high, college ¥1000, Elementary, junior high ¥600

Canaletto “San Giorgio Maggiore: from the Bacino di San Marco” about 1726–30 Bequest of William A. Coolidge 1993.34 Photograph @2016 Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

Emile Claus’ ‘Coucher de Soleil sur la Lys’ (1911) _ COLLECTION PARTICULIÈRE, COURTESY GALERIE PATRICK DEROM, PHOTO © GALERIE PATRICK DEROM

GetHiroshima / Spring 2016

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SHOPPING

hiroshima street fashion: Graduation Edition

Words / Photos: Charlie Rose http://charlieroselovelove.com/

Just as people change as they move through different stages of life, so does their fashion.

Japan is no exception, and here, moving on from one fashion style to another is described as “graduating” from one look to another. In this issue, some unique individuals tell us about how their fashion has evolved.

runa / feminine, flirtatious

BE FO RE

Age: Secret / Occupation: Part-­t ime worker / Current Style: Feminine, Flirtatious / Former Style: Girly, Lolita Fashion I’ve changed my look gradually as I’ve gotten older. I used to love girly clothes, especially the ribbons and fluffy skirts of Lolita Fashion which people don’t wear everyday. I really wanted to dress like fantasy characters :) Now, I usually wear clothes that are ‘feminine’ and ‘monotone’, but I still like girly fashion so I usually add girly accessories.

Where do you like to go shopping in Hiroshima? PARCO.

momonori / [blesscode] bangya

BE FO RE

Age: 17 / Occupation: High School Student / Current Style: BLESSCODE Bangya* / Former Style: No specific style I used to just wear whatever I wanted because I didn’t care about following one particular style. Now that I care more about about fashion, I wear bangya which I think looks cute.

Where do you like to go shopping in Hiroshima? INGNI.

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maikaruma / [avelchain] bangya

BE FO RE

Age: 18 / Occupation: High School Student / Current Style: AvelChain Bangya* / Former Style: Gothic Lolita I switched to my current look as I wanted to be seen as more mature. I loved and miss looking like a doll, but I do like that I do look more mature now.

Where do you like to go shopping in Hiroshima? Sun Mall.

* BANGYA Derived from BANGYARU or “Band Girl” Japanese equivalent of a devoted Visual Kei “fangirl” whose dre ss is directly affected by the style of the band she idolizes.

hidden fashion treasures of hiroshima Purveyor of Lolita fashion since the late 80s the branch of ‘BABY, the Stars Shine Bright’ located on the 4th floor of Sun Mall on the Hondori shopping arcade, will take your breath away. But don’t worry, it will quickly be replaced with wonder, amusement and pure curiosity as you start to peek and poke about. This store carries two lines, the softer Sweet Lolita ‘BABY, the Stars Shine Bright’ and the more gothic and punk influenced ‘ALICE and the PIRATES’, though both are, as you’d expect, hyper-girly with a dash of princess. / map C p.27 [B-1] 1

‘baby, the stars shine bright’ staff: Nobuko / Age: 20 Line Modeled: ‘BABY, the Stars Shine Bright’

Neko / Age: Secret ♥ Line Modeled: ‘ALICE and the PIRATES’

GetHiroshima / Spring 2016

/37

photo: Murasaki

hiroshima’s bohemian queen

goto izumi Words: Paul Walsh / Photos: Junpei Ishida

I was lying in a tent, weary from 2 days of Bob Marley covers, when I first encountered Goto Izumi. Drawn out by a highpitched, childlike voice backed by the simplest of percussion and a plodding bass guitar, I fell in love with her misfit trio, Nekomushi, on the spot. One thing led to another, and a year later, it was me plucking that bass. Clad in juban and wielding her trusty accordion like a weapon, Goto Izumi pulled her theatrical sideshow, inspired by the theater of Terayama Shuji and the ero-guro manga of artists like Maruo Suehiro, all around Japan. Then, on our return from the 2007 SXSW festival in the US, she pulled the plug. It was the end of Nekomushi. Goto Izumi, however, was only just getting started.

Almost 10 years on, Goto Izumi has established herself as the undisputed queen of Hiroshima’s tightly-knit avant-garde community. In February she simultaneously released her 8th and 9th solo albums during the 8th anniversary celebrations of the opening of her live music cafe, Organ-za. In those 8 years she has taken over an entire building, creating a safe-haven for many who fall outside Hiroshima’s largely conservative mainstream. Although when she meets people for the first time, she usually says something like, “I make my way in the world as a musician while running a cafe”, Goto Izumi is also a writer, a promoter and MC, she has dabbled in film, hosted her own radio show, she has recently entered the world of burlesque.

And, of course, she’s GetHiroshima’s Deep Hiroshima correspondent.

So, what, to her mind, is it that she really does?

“Basically I try to continually be creative. The music, the restaurant, film, cabaret, writing, it’s all the same as far as I’m concerned.

It’s all about continuing to put things out into the world that people enjoy - to keep entertaining.”

I recall always being impressed by her work ethic during the Nekomushi days. Whether playing to a packed house or just a handful of people, she always insisted that every show was different and hated the idea that a paying customer might see something she had done before. “Actually,” she says, “I’ve finally come to appreciate that if you create something that people respond to, there’s nothing wrong with treating your audience to it again. I’ve grown into a performer who can do the same show twice,” she laughs. “I was definitely more edgy and uncompromising when I was younger - everything had to be new and it had to be full on. I was fine that only those who ‘got’ what I was doing were able to appreciate it. I’m more pragmatic now.”

Would she describe herself as more of an entertainer, rather an artist? “Yes, I care too much about whether people ‘get’ what I’m doing! I only do what I want to do and on my own terms, but I definitely want to entertain a wide audience. I view all my creations, no matter how off-the-wall, as entertainment products and if the audience doesn’t understand the show, I have failed as an entertainer.

I ask how her music has evolved over her 9 albums. “Well, my music is now more accessible.

This may have lost me those early hardcore fans, but on the plus side, I now reach a wider audience.

That said, my songs are still very much Goto Izumi songs and I hope this sets them apart.” Indeed the songs on her latest album Hajime kara nai hazu no shiawase ongaku (Soundtrack to delusions of happiness), sometimes jaunty and sometimes longing, are replete with trademark melancholy and a dark humor. The voice, while still distinctly Goto Izumi, is more confident, like it is catching up with the timbre of the antique accordion which accompanies it.

looking to adapt a Cherry Typhoon-penned Goto Izumi Murder Mystery to be taken overseas. You can sense the excitement when Izumi talks of these collaborations, she obviously gets a thrill out of the challenge of working with someone so talented.

Of burlesque Izumi says,”The more I heard about the scene and its history, the more I wanted to get involved. I love that it can be sexy, but it is not designed merely to titillate men, that it’s so open to women of all body types. When I was in Montreal it seemed like every woman you met was doing burlesque in their free time! The female/ male ratio is about 60/40 at Organ-za’s burlesque events and they are great fun.”

Izumi has toured extensively overseas since that first trip to SXSW in 2007. Despite the language barrier, she manages to enthrall audiences around the world and I’ve seen her move people to tears. She puts this down to her focus on the desire to entertain. If you make that effort to get your feelings across whether that be through the voice, the music or the way you move and look, the audience will reciprocate and a connection can be made.

We turn to Organ-za. Izumi wanted her own space since she was 20 years old and was continually preparing, learning and saving all the while during the Nekomushi years. “I wanted to create the kind of place where I wanted to play and where could host other artists, a space that just didn’t exist in Hiroshima. I’d been playing music for years and had cut my teeth working in bars and restaurants, so it made sense to combine all these aspects. Organ-za is a cafe, a bar, a restaurant, a live music venue, a theater and even a kind of community space. It’s all these things at once, and that’s fine. That’s me. I’m not a pro-musician nor a pro-restaurant manager, but I am a pro at combining all these disparate aspects. That’s my talent.” And how about the expansion, taking over the entire building with a cafe below Organ-za at street level and a second live space and gallery above? “All according to plan,” she says with a cheeky smile.

It was at Organ-za’s 4th anniversary celebration that Izumi first worked with Tokyo burlesque dancer Cherry Typhoon. It proved to be a fortuitous meeting and persuaded Izumi to move from cabaret and dip her toe into the world of burlesque. Izumi took part in Cherry Typhoon’s well received Burlesque Ninja Show at the Montreal Fringe festival in 2014 and they are

I ask her how she does it all. Her diary is a mess of appointments, obligations and projects and she never seems to take a day off. Where does that energy come from? “I don’t have a ‘hobby’ as such, I don’t need a break or a holiday, I get to do what I want to do most - my work. I always have so much to do, but that just means I am continually doing what I want to do. It’s a wonder to me that people don’t work more. Why do what you enjoy only when you are ‘off’? Why not always be ‘on’ doing what you enjoy?

vol.

9

g o to iz um i 's de ep hiroshima

星★ ★ ★ ★ ★ “deep” ranking OH MY NOOOOO! Can you believe it dear reader, little ol’ me on the cover! I must confess I feel as uncomfortable as I am honored. I am of course thrilled, but am I worthy dear reader? How much Goto Izumi can one publication take? So, this issue I cede the floor. Having shared many of my favorite places in these pages, just what do you speakers of the English tongue deem “deep”, I wondered. GetHiroshima writers have proffered some of their own deep spots to be judged by yours truly. So without further ado, in the parlance of your times, “let’s do this.”

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５ テル

eat the day!

In a new regular segment we ask local international residents to share some of

breakfast

their favorite dining spots to keep you covered, morning till night.

TERANISHI COFFEE HONTEN

by JJ Walsh

If you are tired of the big coffee chains and enjoy your toast sliced as thick as a good book, you’ll love this Japanese kissaten. Teranishi oozes old world charm and has a loyal clientele. Despite constant turnover, the staff and the main man behind the counter are incredibly welcoming and attentive. Expect to give your Nihongo a go as there is no English here, but order the moruningu setto (morning set) and you can’t go wrong - three doorstop-sized pieces of their signature additive and sugar free, melt-in-the-mouth bread topped with a selection of jams, plus a healthy salad and coffee for ¥800.

Tel: 082-249-3850 / 07:30-19:00 (Closed Sundays) Morning set available until 11am Near Fuji Grand Shopping Center in Takara-machi http://teranishi-coffee.com/ 6-15 Takara-machi, Naka-ku, map C p.27 [C-3] 15

lunch

SAKE NO SAKANA さけのさかな

An izakaya specializing in Setonaikai seafood and local vegetables with nice traditional Japanese wooden decor. I often go there for lunch as they offer very cheap options like a torikatsu set (breaded chicken) for only ¥350! or the aji-furai set (fried horse mackerel) for ¥550, both served with rice, pickles, shredded cabbage and a light broth soup. Their many other lunch sets available for from ¥600-¥980 include fried oysters, sashimi, anagoten-don (sea eel tempura on rice), and curry. It’s located between Nagarekawa and Yagenbori, just behind Mitsukoshi department store.

Tel: 050-5785-6024 / Lunch 11:30-14:30 Mushika Blg 1F 3-24 Ebisu-cho, Naka-ku, map B p.26

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by Judith Cotelle

12

coffee

OBSCURA COFFEE ROASTERS

A Metropolitan-style artisanal coffee shop in downtown Hiroshima, Obscura is run by 3 guys from Hiroshima who upped sticks and established a little coffee empire in the streets of trendy Sangenjaya in Tokyo. They have returned to spread some caffeinated love in their hometown. Obscura like to keep things simple, so here the focus is on pour-over coffee, carefully prepared with laboratory-like precision, in a quiet and stylish atmosphere (families note, this extends to asking you take your young kids elsewhere). A great place to chill, reflect or catch up on some reading or writing.

Tel: 082-249-7543 / 09:00-20:00 Closed every 3rd Wednesday of the month 3-28 Fukuromachi, Naka-ku, map C p.27[B-2] 9

dinner

GINZO

by Jade Brischke

It was that promise of a ¥100 drink bar that made me notice this izakaya-style restaurant in Yokogawa. Yes people, ¥100. I initially assumed only the first drink would be ¥100. Not so!

In fact, all drinks on the menu, except beer, are ¥100 (beer is ¥300). The only condition: order over ¥2000 worth of food. Easy-peasy as the food menu has a nice range of Japanese and Western inspired choices from raw ham to carbonara and favourites like kare age, conveniently separated into ¥300, ¥500 and ¥700 categories and which you order via a touchscreen at your table.

Tel: 082-532-2350 / 17:00-24:000 3-10-27 Yokogawa-cho, Nishi-ku, map p.24 [B-2]

drink & dessert

by Paul Walsh

CHANO-MA

4

by Damien and Kismet Cordova

Cozy and softly lit, Chano-ma provides service that is polite and foreigner friendly.

The entire cafe bar is covered in cushy bedding and mirrors. Local expats have nicknamed the place “Beyonce’s bedroom” due to the fluffy, white, and somewhat girly atmosphere. Best for date night or girls’ night out, Chanoma’s menu offers a diverse selection of cocktails, entrees and desserts. Our two favorite desserts consisted of creamy panna cotta with hoji-cha syrup topping and sweet adzuki bean soup. The green tea tiramisu was also a delicious twist on an old favorite. Lounging among plush white pillows while sipping on a fruity sangria and sharing some sweet bites is the epitome of what late night dessert should be.

Tel: 082-241-8555 / 11:30am-2am Located above the Cinetwin movie theater a block north of Hondori, look for the sandwich board on the street.

2F Hondori 2-19, Naka-ku, map B p.26 1

If you would like to share one of your favorite dining spots in a future issue send us a 100 word description with a photo or two to eattheday@gethiroshima.com GetHiroshima / Spring 2016

/45

Matt’s Moment a short season in a hiroshima

It’s springtime, and you’ve set your heart on Hiroshima, Queen of the Lemon Isles. Good for you! Let’s take a few moments to ensure you make the most of your time here. Ideally, you’ll begin by arranging transportation. Trains work, but can be limiting. Hovercraft, no. Taxis are a popular option, though you do hear unpleasant rumors. In the end, you’re probably best off walking. Most of the really good travel stories start with a sharp tug on the bootlaces, and that’s what we’re after.

You should arrive on a mild morning and supply the authorities with the necessary bribes. Looking around, you’ll find that others have come too. Take their photographs. If you like, you can ask them those 36 questions that are making the rounds recently, the ones meant to make strangers fall in love. Assuming you intend to fall in love with all of them (always the tactful choice), you should allow the better part of the morning, especially if you’ve fallen in with a chatty crowd.

And now you are smitten. Well done. It’s time for an adventure and luckily, as alive to the possibilities as you are, almost any experience will do. No need to overtax yourself this early in the game. The fact that you’re hungry simplifies things greatly.

Lunch! Just don’t order the shirako. It’s chilled sperm, flayed from the loins of some hapless fish (if you’re protesting silently that fish have no loins, you’ve missed the point, specifically the cold bowl of fishy semen), which is more adventure than you want on your first turn out of the gate. Since you’re part of a group, and all of you very much

46\

in love, you can taste from one another’s plates.

More photographs. That’s nice. These first hours are magic.

The guidebooks are spot-on about Miyajima. It’s wonderful. Again, walking is the best choice, at least until you come to the sea. Miyajima is an island, and in order to reach it you’ll need to seize the wrists and ankles of your new gang and form a human raft. The waters of the Seto Inland Sea are generally calm, and aside from the odd crab or inquisitive finless porpoise you shouldn’t have too much trouble from the wildlife. From Moto Ujina, prevailing springtime currents will likely carry you to Miyajima’s southern coast. Most of the famous World Heritage sights are on the far side of the island, but you’re fit, well-fed (one hopes) and by God you’re in love! A few quick photographs and off you run. Round to the right is probably best.

If you choose to go the other way you’re walking straight into headhunter territory.

Strolling through Miyajima’s main population center you’ll find all sorts of souvenirs, from illustrated tea towels and bamboo whirligigs to shamoji, a type of wooden war club employed to lethal effect by the bands of female pirates who preyed on merchant shipping around the island until the early 1970s. Itsukushima Shrine itself is lovely, and you should avoid allowing yourself to be swept along by the crowd. Linger a little. If the mood seems right, lounge insouciantly against one of the red columns for a memorable photograph or two.

If you’re lucky the tide will be in and the shrine will seem to float. Not enough to induce profound

(that never was)

seasickness, but a bottle of cold ginger ale will be welcome. During the popular Namitobi Festival in late May, the entire shrine casts off from the island and is driven at high speeds up and down the coast while young men in bearskin robes waterski behind, slashing at one another with shamoji until a lone victor remains.

As the sun sets on the oyster-infested sea, you and your rabble of sweethearts find your way to the ferry terminal. On the northeastern horizon, the lights of Hiroshima beckon. It’s time for a night out, and in Hiroshima that means the entertainment district of Nagarekawa.

Nagarekawa means “flowing river,” a reference to the 1926 collapse of the district’s central shochu tank. In the ensuing tragedy, as much as 250 million gallons of shochu swept through the area, wetting several thousand people nearly to their knees. The only fatality was the beloved pet of a Shikoku showgirl named Shizuka. She had a shaggy Shetland sheepdog named Schatzi. The shochu was shallow, but Schatzi was short. She sheltered atop a shipment of schnapps, shivering. The schnapps shifted, and Schatzi shlipped. Er, slipped. Of course, if you’ve seen the film Schatzi: Song of My Heart, starring Richard Gere, none of this will be news to you.

And this is where we part. You’ll have to find your own way through to morning and start again. Good luck to you, to all of you. Send a postcard, care of this magazine, and let me know how it all turns out.

Kan awa Proud producers of Hiroshima’s delicious oysters since 1867, the next chapter in Kanawa’s history begins at their new oyster boat restaurant next to Peace Memorial Park.

Ka k i fu ne Oys te r Boat Private gourmet experience

Premium cuisine, river view

Oyster, seafood or “best of Hiroshima” omakase courses.

Lunch ¥6480~ Dinner ¥12,960~ Reserv required, 1 course / customer

Fried oyster, tempura and sashimi lunches ¥2700-¥3024 8 dish oyster selection ¥4860, full oyster banquet ¥12,960

on the Wakyu floor.

on the Seto floor.

Lunch: 11:00-15:00 (L.O. 14:00), Dinner: 17:00-22:00 (L.O.21:00) 5min walk from A-Bomb Dome (082-241-7416) Map C p.27 [B-2] 5 We welcome telephone reservations in English.

H ir os h im a’ s s fr es h es t oy st er Kanawa’s oysters are farmed in offshore waters that meet strict regulations.

Kaki Meian Oyster Bar Enjoy raw oysters with a glass of wine.

11:00-22:00 (L.O. 21:30) 6F Hiroshima Station ASSE Building (082-263-7317) map A p.26 7

ASSE Kanawa Casual setting, same great food.

11:00-22:00 (L.O. 21:30) 6F Hiroshima Station ASSE Building (082-263-3296) map A p.26 6

Kanawa Hiroshima Airport Compare oysters from around the world!

08:00-L.0 20:00 3F Hiroshima Airport (0848-86-8330)

English menus and ma jor credit cards accepted at all locations - www.kanawa.co.jp

Beautifully presented Japanese kaiseki cuisine and Italian fare with commanding views of Peace Memorial Park on the 15th floor of the Sunroute Hotel.

VIALE

吉水 KISSUI

Original interpretations of Italian standards with an excellent wine

Multi-course traditional kaiseki lunches and dinners using the fresh-

selection.

est seasonal ingredients served in a relaxed atmosphere.

6 course dinner ¥4500

GetHiroshima Special Kaiseki Dinner ¥4500

Bagna càuda, antipasto selection, pasta, meat or fish, dessert, bread & tea or coffee.

Appetizer, sashimi, simmered dish, grilled dish, beef, rice, miso soup, pickled vegetables, wagashi dessert.

Set lunches from ¥1800, Antipasti, salad, pasta, bread, tea or coffee

Lunch Kissui-gozen Kaiseki ¥2800 (Weekdays), Seasonal Kaiseki ¥3900

(dessert buffet +¥380)

Fantastic value!

Lunch 11:30-15:00 (L.O. 14:00) Dinner 17:00-21:30 (L.O. 20:00) closed 2 irregular days a month

Lunch 11:30-15:00 (L.O. 14:00) Dinner 17:00-21:30 (L.O. 20:00) closed 2 irregular days a month

A la carte also available at dinner / Credit cards accepted / Non-smoking

Credit cards accepted / Tables, tatami and horigotatsu seating / Non-smoking

15F Sunroute Hotel, 3-3-1 Otemachi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi, Map C p.27 [B-2] / Kissui 8 082-249-5657 / Viale 16 082-244-3069