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SPLIT.KNIT a project by Giannakopoulos Ioannis T., Bagordaki Marianna, Xiaqing Ji, Yingjie An
B PRO BARTLETT PROSPECTUS AD Research Cluster 2 2019-20 Architectural Product(ion) tought by Stefan Bassing & Federico Borello The Bartlett School of Architecture | UCL ii
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CONTENTS
00 _INTRODUCTION
_00.A | Research Objective
_00.B | Key References 10
06
03
_SPLIT.KNIT STARTUP 142
_03.A | Internal Organisation
144
_03.B | Customisation
146
_03.C | Delivery
150
01
_KNIT FORMING TECHNOLOGY 16
_01.A | Knitting Technology
18
04
_DESIGN PROPOSALS 152
_01.B | Knit Forming Categories
24
_03.A | Co - Working Office
154
_01.C | Weft Knitted Textiles Structures
26
_03.B | Olympic Games Tokyo 2021
172
_01.D | InLay Knitting Technique
28
_Figures Appendix
210
02
_INITIAL RESEARCH 30
_02.A | Material Behavior
32
_02.B | Small Scale Prototypes
62
_02.C | Product Design
the Pringle the Leaf the Diamond
66 86 126 iv
00
_INTRODUCTION
_00.A | Research Objective
WHAT ?
/a collection of space organizers
TO WHOM?
/for everyone
PRODUCT QUALITIES?
"Welcome to the world of Split.Knit."
Split.Knit project explores the synergy between knitted fabric membranes and active bending fiberglass rods as boundary supporting material. Additionally, the innovative trajectory that this study examines in the field of knitted structures, is their ability to be transformed according to users' needs. Traditional knitting techniques are revisited and enhanced through contemporary computermachine logics as medium for the exloration of their space making capacities in the context of flexible knitted structures for interior and exterior spaces of multiple scales. As a result of the research, is raised up a Rental Company of Space Organisers - Split.Knit Company- in order to introduce to future customers its pre-fabricated products or its ability to give smart customized solutions for a variety of architectural scenarios and demands.
Specifically, this research focuses on the deep understanding of knitting technology and aims to create flexible structures / products that may addressed to all and respond to different needs.Thus, among others, it is expected for Split.Knit products to be truly transformable, rabidly assembled on site, to custom- fit to any space, to be lightweight and so, portable products.
/ Transformability of products / Lightweight structures / Assembly - Reassembly capacities / Replacement without any site damage / Rapid fabrication with no waste / Advanced aesthetic results
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_00.A | Research Objective
_Split.Knit Innovation ; Transformability Transformability is the key aspect of Split.Knit products. Comparing to all existed tensile structures, this project focuses not only to advanced aesthetic results but also to the architectural functionality of each product. Thus, the family of objects that this research aims to conclude with, will be designed in a way to adapt to a range of scenarios and scales. This ambition will be achieved by manufacturing flexible products that can change its shape according to users' needs.
Fig01| Material Equilibria by Sean Ahlquist
Fig03| Isoropia by CITA
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Fig02| Hybrid Tower by CITA
Fig04| Split.Knit maquette, transformability feature
Fig05 | Sample of transformable knitted fabric
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_00.B | Reference no1 | Nike™ Flyknit™ Racer
The basic idea behind the Flyknit Racer was to produce a shoe that had the form-fitting qualities of a sock but also the static structure of a sneaker. So, Nike hired a team of engineers to reprogram a knitting machine customarily used to make sweaters and socks, in order to produce a single 2D upper piece that is made from colored yarn of varying elasticity, thickness, and strength. The result is a form-fitting, almost seamless shoe that weighed less and used less material than any other shoe available at the time. 1 However, our main interest in this project is oriented to the use of Flywire Cables on the upper that cradle the foot for locked-down support. These ultralightweight cables are customizable through the laces and hug the arch for a dynamic, supportive fit2. As such, by translating this technique into the field of structural systems, our purpose is to use similar materials for supporting and transforming our structures.
Adam Jane, “Material Matters: Nike Flyknit”, August 03 2016 John Kim, "A convergence of art and technology- NIKE Flyknit collective", FEB 16 2016
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2
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Fig06 | Form-fit qualities of a Sock
Fig08 | basic color yarns
Fig09 | sketchy representation of the Flywire lacing support structure
Fig07 | Variation of Nike's own polyester yarn
Fig10 | close-up detail of the differents knits of the shoe
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The ultra-lightweight knit upper fits like a second skin. Using a data-informed construction process, Nike had achieved the precision level necessary for the perfect placement of materials for support, stretch, and breathability all in a single piece for a more precise fit3. Different types of knit patterns are used within a single Flyknit upper. Certain areas have a tighter weave to give the foot more support, while other areas are designed to have more loose knits in order to be more flexible or breathable. This is supposed to be another important principle for the fabrication of our final models. The suitable combination of yarns and knits at specific areas could transform a soft membrane, to a strong structure.
https://sneakerssneak.wordpress.com/2014/06/28/one-ofthe-best-nike-game-changer-flyknit-technology
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Fig11 | Footwear Engineering
Fig12 | Supporting areas | tighter knits
Fig14 | Supporting areas [ different direction of knitting in order to ensure stabilitily both on x and y axis ]
Fig13 | Breathable areas | loose knits
Fig15 | Locking yarns’ area
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_00.B | Reference no2 | CITA_Isoropia
tubular
_Bending-Active Membrane Hybrids Isoropia, [which in Greek means balance, equilibrium, and stability] is a 35m long structure made from 41 custom CNC knitted patches of up to 7m length for the 2018 Venice Biennale Installation. Similar to the Nike™ Flyknit™ Racer knitting technology, in this project, it is used high-strength fiber materials in order to make bespoke textiles on the CNC knitting machine. Again, multiple knitting methods and techniques are used in different areas according to the shape requirements or functional reasons.
piquet lacoste
However, Isoropia in order to approach the architectural scale is setting the textile membrane in structural equilibrium with bend glass fiber rods of varying thickness and strength. This efficient strategy will be explored and outlined in our project as well. interlock
Fig16 | CNC knit_different structure
1 2
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https://yuliyasinke.com/Isoropia https://kadk.dk/en/case/isoropia
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Fig18 | small scale conceptual model
Fig17 | Type of Knits
Fig19 | flexible textile structure
Fig20 | CITA-Isoropia overall appearance
Fig21 | Morphogenetic process
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01
_KNIT FORMING TECHNOLOGY
_01.A | Knitting Technology
In order to better grasp the use of knitting technology, we need to have a deep understanding of the development of the knitting, including from hand knitting to machine knitting, as well as the analysis and comparison of different types of knitting, so as to obtain relevant knowledge and apply it to the project as required. Therefore, this chapter mainly extracts the relevant knowledge from bibliography for research and analysis. Fig01 | Hand Knitting
Knitting; is a method of manufacturing a fabric by inter looping yarns and it is the second most important method of fabric formation. It can be defined as a needle technique of fabric formation, in which, with the help of knitting needles, loops are formed to make fabric. Fabric can be formed by hand or machine knitting, but the basic principle remains the same i.e. pulling a new loop through the old loop.1 Hand Knitting; is a form of knitting, in which the knitted fabric is produced by hand using needles, and each stitch is manipulated individually across the row. 2
Fig02 | Domestic Knitting machine
Domestic Knitting machines; are analog knitting machines, that were produced from the 1970’s to the 1990’s, which generate a fabric similar to Hand Knitting, but much faster. These machines work an entire row of loops in a single movement.3 Industrial Knitting machines; more technologically advanced knitting machines which aim at increasing the gauges available, expanding the number of loop-forming systems, by automating the knitting process.4
textechdip.wordpress.com/contents/welcome-to-knitting/ www.vam.ac.uk/articles/the-history-of-hand-knitting 3 Vikki Haffenden, “Translating Between Hand and Machine Knitting”, Crowood, 2018 4 T. Cassidy, S. Grishanov, “Advances in Apparel Production”, 2018 1
2
Fig03 | Industrial Knitting machine
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_01.A | Knitting Technology _Analog Knitting Machine These machines are low-cost machines which are mainly used for small-scale production. The most interesting feature is that they demand a deep understanding of the knitting methods' logic, and their outcome is handcrafted-like. As well, in order to achieve the desired results, presice strategic plan and concentration are needed, before and during the knitting process. _Computer Programmed Knitting Machine This is a non-conventional and simultaneously interesting example which can convert a common analog Knitting Machine to digitally handled one. This can happen by hacking the machine and replacing the original floppy disk with Arduino UNO + AYAB + Shield Sandwich. Then, through connecting the machine with the computer via USB, you can program the knitting process via Python in real time.2
Fig04 | Analog Brothers KH 940 Knitting Machine
This method is mentioned as a medium transition from the analog machine handing to the full computer-controlled one, minimizing the cost of using a CNC Knitting Machine.
Analogue Knitting Machine
_CNC Knitting Machine Generally, CNC Knitting Machines are industrial machines which work in the same way as the domestic ones. The essential differences have to do with the automation, speed, cost, size, and power consumption. They are widely used in the garment industry where knitwears made on huge automated machines such as Stoll or Shima Seiki. In knitting in Architecture, the most eminent references such as the Textile Material Systems of Sean Ahlquist3 and Achim Menges4 or the knitted structures of Jenny Sabin5 Studio, etc., use CNC Knitting Machines in order to accomplish their demanding textile material results and their complex geometries.
1 Barandvskaya Yuliya, “Knitflatable Architecture: Pneumatically activated preprogrammed knitted textile spaces”,ITECH M.Sc. Thesis, University of Stuttgard, 2014-15 2 makezine.com/2017/07/27/learn-lingo-machine-knitting/ 3 materialarchitectures.com/ 4 achimmenges.net/?page_id=18307 5 jennysabin.com/
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Cost Production
Manufacturing time
Opportunites
Design Complexity
Machine Cost
Machine Learning
Fig07 | Knitting machines' Comparison
Ayab Shield
Arduino UNO
Fig05 | Computer Programmed Brothers KH 930 (Internal floppy disk of the machine is replaced with Arduino and Ayab)
Computer Programmed Knitting Machine
Fig06 | STOLL 14 gauge v-bed weft-knitting machine with 82” needle bed
CNC Knitting Machine
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The knitting machine we choosed to explore is the most popular machine which is used at home knitting. Knitting machine has many useful parts that help designers to make fabric with designed patterns efficiently, and we can put the punchcard with the informa_01.A tion of patterns into the knitting machine and we can knit the fabric | Knitting Technology | Manual Knitting Machine we want. Brother Knitting KH 940 Machine
a b c Fig08 | Diagramatic representation of our analogue Knitting Machine
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_YARN TENSION UNIT feed and thread the yarn to the carriage.
_K CARRIAGE feed the yarn and change the tension. make the needles work through the movement of hand.
_ROW COUNTER
_NEEDLE BED The needles above the needle bed are moved automatically by moving the carriage, so that yarns are interspersed with each other to generate fabric.
_TABLE CLAMPS
_ACCESSORIES:
f d
a
e b c
g
h
i
a | extension rails b | cast-on comb(long) c | cast-on comb(short) d | 1/1 needle pusher e | claw weight f | 1×3 transfer tool g | 2×3 transfer tool h | 1×2 transfer tool i | latch tool
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_01.A | Knitting Technology | CNC Knitting Machine STOLL 14 gauge v-bed weft-knitting machine
Fig09 | STOLL 14 gauge v-bed weft-knitting machine
Fig10 |automated production
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Fig11 |computer controled
Fig12 |double-bed
yarn tensioners yarn carriers
on-board display
high roller with rotation control
computer controled needle selection
on/off
knitting area
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_01.B | Knit Forming Categories
_Warp & Weft Knitting1 & 2 Knitting technology is divided into two large fields; Warp and Weft knitting. The main difference between them is the direction of loops that they are fabricated from. While in Warp knitting loops are formed vertically, in Weft knitting they are formed horizontally. Weft Knitting; A horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread and the thread runs in the horizontal direction. The fabric structure is different from one from another. Weft knitted fabrics are widely used. Warp Knitting; Each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different thread and the number of thread used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the numbers of loops in horizontal row.
Fig13 | Warp Knitting
By comparing those two categories from the perspective of elasticity, weight, or how easily the shape of the final piece could be controlled, we concluded to involve Weft knitting technology. Fig14 | Weft Knitting
1 Brother Knitting Machine Manual, “How to use Knitting Machine KH-940” 2 textilelearner.blogspot.com/2014/07/difference-between-plain-knit-fabric.html
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Warp Knitting Formation
Weft Knitting Formation
Forming of Loops
Elasticity
Shrinkage Properties
Aesthetic Result
coarse / default shape fabric
thin / in shape fabric
Fig15 | Comparison of Warp and Weft Knitting Technique
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_01.C | Weft Knitted Textiles Structures
_Plain Knitting & Rib Knitting1 & 2 In the field of Weft knitting are included a variety of knitting techniques. These pages focus on the most common ones; Plain and Rib Knitting technique. Plain Knitting; Plain knitting is also called ‘’Singleknit’’. It is produced by the needles of only one set of needle bed with all the loops intermeshed in the same direction. Rib knitting; Rib knitting is also called ‘Double-knit’’. Rib requires two sets of needles operating in between each other so that wales of face stitches and wales of back stitches are knitted on each side of the fabric. Rib fabrics are knitted on machines with two sets of needles. By comparing the properties of those techniques we realized that for the creation of lightweight and flexible structures it might be preferable to use the Plain Knitting technique.
Fig16 | Plain Knitting Garment
Fig17 | Rib Knitting Garment
1 Brother Knitting Machine Manual, “How to use Knitting Machine KH-940” 2 textilelearner.blogspot.com/2014/07/difference-between-plain-knit-fabric.html
Fig18 | Plain Knitting
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Fig19 | Rib Knitting
Plain Knitting
Rib Knitting
Construction
one set of needles
two sets of needles
Appearance
right & wrong face
double face
Curling
Thickness | Weight
Extensibility
Lengthwise
Widthwise
Area
Fig20 | Comparison of Plain and Rib Knitting
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_01.D | InLay Knitting Technique
_ InLay Knitting Technique 1+2 Inlay technique is commonly used to introduce yarns that could not be directly knit due to their stiffness or fragility, and it is typically accomplished using special yarn feeders.1 Generally, this method is used for to knitting textiles for: a | aesthetic purposes, as a pattern, giving the textile 3dimentional pattern perception b | extra support, protection, strength, and tightness to the textile structure as it was mentioned to the Nike Flyknit Racer Reference [Chapter _00.B Reference no1 | Nike™ Flyknit™ Racer pp. 12-16]
Fig21 | blue line = inlay material
c | shape-changing or any other Transformation like Fig18. Elastic Stretch and Recovery can be achieved by pulling the thread of the inLay yarn, the textile can be compressed and then by leaving it to relax again.2 d| handle, as users can take decisions about their textiles by transforming it as they desire. Transformation and user handle are the main aspects that inspired the "Split.Knit ©", as it is obvious in the next Chapters.
1 L. Albaugh, S. Hudson, L. Yao, “Digital Fabrication of Soft Actuated Objects" 2 Sadhan Chandra Ray, "Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology", Woodhead, 2011
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Fig22 | Samuel Hall | Knitted Textile Design with the use inLay technique
HORIZONTAL INLAY
VERTICAL INLAY
DIAGONAL INLAY
Fig23 | InLay Knitting Technique' categories
Fig24 | Phases of transformation
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02
_INITIAL RESEARCH
_02 | Chapter Introduction
MATERIAL BEHAVIOR
Prior to designing any of the final Split.Knit products, it was crucial to experiment, comprehend, and then control all the properties of our materials. To achieve this, it was thought as mandatory to deal with both physical and digital explorations. Thus, this chapter dealt with:
/understanding of yarn’s properties
PATTERNS
/ creating complex patterns
Material Behavior; focuses on the deep understanding of the knitting technology by testing a variety of yarns and their possible combination in order to compose complex patterns with loose or strong stitches. Patterns; working on multiple techniques both with manual and CNC knitting machines the aim is to create complex patterns with loose or strong stitches in a variety of colors. Product Design; it was set up a digital code that successfully simulates all material behaviors that were gained from physical prototypes. In this way, it was built up a strategy that could produce faster and more accurate design proposals. The conclusion was three Products; Pringle, Leaf and the Diamond.
PRODUCT DESIGN
/simulation & design
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_02.A | Material Behavior_Manual Knitting DENSITY 3
Wool
90cm
= 390 rows
Fig01 | Digital Textile Simulation
extension
3 cm Fig02 | Physical Knitted Textile
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Fig03 | Stressed Textile
DENSITY 7
In all experiments further down the dimensions of the knitted piece in a relaxed position is 90cmX90cm. The aim of these two-dimensional explorations is the deep understanding of the effect that the density of knits has for the softness or the hardness of the final piece.
90cm
= 290 rows
Both from digital and physical representation it is obvious that the differentiation on densities effects not only the number of horizontal rows but also the length of the final extension.
Fig04 | Digital Textile Simulation
Fig05 | Physical Knitted Textile
55 cm
Fig06 | Stressed Textile
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_02.A | Material Behavior_Manual Knitting DENSITY 3
Lycra
90cm
= 950 rows
Fig07 | Digital Textile Simulation
extension Fig08 | Physical Knitted Textile
90 cm
Fig09 | Stressed Textile
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DENSITY 7
90cm
= 960 rows
Fig10 | Digital Textile Simulation
Fig11 | Physical Knitted Textile
110 cm
Fig12 | Stressed Textile
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_02.A | Material Behavior_Manual Knitting DENSITY 3
Wool & Lycra
90cm
= 950 rows
Fig13 | Digital Textile Simulation
extension
25 cm
Fig14 | Physical Knitted Textile
Fig15 | Stressed Textile
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DENSITY 7
90cm
= 960 rows
Fig16 | Digital Textile Simulation
Fig17 | Physical Knitted Textile
90 cm
Fig18 | Stressed Textile
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_02.A | Material Behavior_Manual Knitting DENSITY 3
Wool & Lycra
TA TB TA TB TA TB TA TB TB TA TB TA TB TA
extension Fig19 | Digital Textile Simulation
TA [Type A] : wool and lycra | ROWS 50 TB [Type B] : lycra | ROWS 50
_ Wool & Lycra in stripes This is the first attempt on having a more complex knitted pattern with the use of a manual knitting machine. There is an alternation of stripes fabricated only with lycra, or wood and lycra together. This experiment aimed to confirm the success of the
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90cm
= 850 rows
TA
digital code that was computed for the simulation of the material behavior. As is shown from the comparison of the Digital Textile Simulation diagram and the Physical Knitted Textile, the curly curves are simulating properly the relaxed stripes of wool&lycra yarns.
Fig20 | Physical Knitted Textile
82 cm
Fig21 | Stressed Textile
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_02.A | Material Behavior_Manual Knitting Patterns
_Rip Pattern Having the previous linear pattern as a guide, this experiment examines the possibility of importing to the "pattern process" the dynamic of techniques that have to do with the modification of the needles on the bed of the knitting machine. Thus, the linear pattern is enriched with linear rips that are fabricated by removing one needle of the machine and locking the stitch to the nearest needle. These rips could be used later on as a design tool in order to create breathable areas between stronger knitted patterns.
Fig22 | Stripe Pattern
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Fig23 | Stripe & Rip Pattern
Fig24 | Rip technique
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_02.A | Material Behavior_Manual Knitting Patterns
_Plain Rib Knitting with Punch Cards As our final design proposals is expected to include a collection of colorful patterns, this study focuses on this direction. Thus, a Punch Card tool is used. How it works? A Punch Card is a map of cells and each cell represents a unique stitch. When the expected pattern is projected to the Punch Card, the influenced cells are converted to holes. By feeding up properly the knitting machine with the Punch Card, each hole activates the right needle.
Fig25 | Brother Knitting KH 940 + Punch card feeding mechanism
Pattern sketch Holes for pattern Holes for machine use
Fig26 | Punch Card
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Fig27 | Expected Pattern
Fig28 | Physical Punch Card
Fig29 | Front Face
Fig30 | Back Face
Fig31 | Repetition of Pattern
However, this process is characterized as limited due to each Punch Card has a standard pattern size which means that repetition cannot be avoided.
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_02.A | Material Behavior_Manual Knitting Patterns
_Plain Rib Knitting with Punch Cards While the previous sample could not achieve our goal for seamless patterns, the next attempt was to use a pattern that when it is repeated, the result will be a continuous pattern. Even the deformation of this linear pattern could give interesting aesthetic results.
Fig32 | Brother Knitting KH 940 + Punch card feeding mechanism
Pattern sketch Holes for pattern Holes for machine use
Fig33 | Punch Card
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Fig34 | Expected Pattern
Fig35 | Physical Punch Card
Fig36 | Relaxed State of Textile
Fig37 | Deformation of the Textile
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_02.A | Material Behavior_Manual Knitting Transformability
_Inspired by inLay technique Being inspired by the efficient mechanics of Flyknit Nike, the purpose from now on is to implement the inLay technique to our products. This approach will empower our primary goals; the parameter of transformability. To do so, it is used as inLay material an elastic rope. By stretching or relaxing the elastic rope, the whole structure could be actively transformed.
Fig38 | Transformation Concept Diagram
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Fig39 | Elastic Rope Locks
Fig40 | Elastic Rope
Fig41 | Physical Knitted Textile - Transformation Concept
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_02.A | Material Behavior_Manual Knitting Transformability
INLAY / between knits
_From inLay to inLace Instead of using the inLay technique as it is commonly known- by inserting the elastic rope in between knits-, we are proposing to replace the influenced stitches by holes (inLace). In this way, there could be better control over the shape and the final result will be more accurate. Fabrication of holes; Similar to the creation of Rip Pattern, the holes are fabricated while knitting the piece by deactivating and activating again the right needle on the knitting machine. Fig42 | In-Lay Technique
INLACE / between holes
Fig43 | In-Lace Technique
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Fig44 | Knitted Holes
Fig45 | Holes Knitting Technique
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_02.A | Material Behavior_CNC Knitting From Manual To CNC knitting
_From Manual To CNC knitting Due to the limitations we faced with the use of Manual Knitting machine, we decided to shift our focus to CNC Knitting and to a to a more rapid, efficient and automated way of production.
Fig46 | Brother Knitting KH 940 + Punch card feeding mechanism
Among others, one of the most important advantage that CNC knitting machine offeres to our research is the chance of creating bigger knitted pieces, and complex patterns. The complexity of patterns is adressed not only to the combination of different stitches, but also to the use of any color we wish to any position into the fabric. domestic use
1hour for 50cm*50cm
< 900 mm
manual operation
simple 50
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Fig47 | STOLL 14 gauge v-bed weft-knitting machine
WORKPLACE industrial use
SPEED 20mins for 50cm*50cm
SIZE OF RESULT < 3800 mm
MACHINE’S SET UP digital control
PATTERN complex AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
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_02.A | Material Behavior_CNC Knitting patterns
_Workflow CNC Knitting requeres a different process from Manual Knitting, 01. At first, the user needs to choose all yarns he wish to use for the future knitted piece. HqPDS Symbol Map
02. Then, he needs to test the yarns on the selected CNC knitting machine (each machine is unique) with the use of a standard digital map as a ruler,
200 needles * 200 rows
03. in order to finally define the Unit Sizes that refer to the selected yarns. This step is one of the most important steps of the whole process and underlines the success of the final knitting. 04. Next goal is to create the new digital map (CAD file) which includes all information that gained from step 03, plus the aesthetic pattern that is expected to be seen on the final product. This map is organised by a collection of symbols and each symbol represents a unique characteristic for the stitch. 05 - 07. The CAD file is finally imported to the machine, and the expected pattern is manufactured by an automated way of production.
01. Select yarn (ex. Lycra)
04. Create the symbol map
Fig48 | CNC Knitting workflow 52
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02. Sample on CNC Knitting Machine
05. Import the file to the machine
Size of sample 28cm * 17.5cm
Size of each stitch: 7.14 needles * 11.4 rows / each 1cm²
03.Define Unit sizes
06. Automated fabrication
07. Produce the fabric
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_02.A | Material Behavior_CNC Knitting patterns
_CNC Knitted Experiments In order to achieve more complex patterns to our Knittings, we shifted our focus to CNC Knitting. So, as we mentioned before our experiments started by defining properly the Unit Sizes of each yarn. Thus, by keeping the same needles and rows for our samples, we realised the different behavior and measurements of all selected yarns. On the following pages, there are attempts on multiple densities and patterns.
Fig49 | HqPDS Software interface
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Knit View of sample in HqPDS
front knit front knit 200 needles * 200 rows
wool
lycra
wool+lycra
Size of sample:
Size of sample:
Size of sample:
30cm * 21cm
28cm * 17.5cm
16.5cm * 8.5cm
Size of each stitch:
Size of each stitch:
Size of each stitch:
6.66 needles * 9.52 rows/ each 1cm²
7.14 needles * 11.4 rows/ each 1cm²
12.1 needles * 23.52 rows/ each 1cm²
Fig50 | Defining Unit Sizes for the selected yarns.
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_02.A | Material Behavior_CNC Knitting patterns
front knit
(30cm) (30cm)
Expected Pattern
HqPDS Symbol Map
density: 400 density: 460
Yarn: Wool
Fig51 | Tests on wool and Lycra at different densities
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Yarn: Lycra
Yarn: wool + Lycra
front knit
(30cm) (30cm)
Expected Pattern
HqPDS Symbol Map
yarn: wool yarn: lycra
Yarn:
stripe A: wool stripe B: lycra
Yarn:
stripe A: lycra stripe B: wool+lycra
Yarn:
stripe A: lycra(black) stripe B: wool+lycra
Fig52 | Tests on wool and Lycra at same densities
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_02.A | Material Behavior_CNC Knitting patterns
(50cm) (50cm)
Expected Pattern side ; front side ; back
HqPDS Symbol Map 359 needles * 580 rows front knit bed back knit bed
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Knitted piece
(50cm)
Expected Pattern
(50cm)
side ; front side ; back
Knitted piece
HqPDS Symbol Map 359 needles * 580 rows front knit bed back knit bed
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_02.A | Material Behavior_CNC Knitting patterns
(50cm) (50cm)
Expected Pattern side ; front side ; back
HqPDS Symbol Map 359 needles * 580 rows front knit bed back knit bed
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Knitted piece
(50cm)
Expected Pattern
(50cm)
side ; front side ; back
Knitted piece
HqPDS Symbol Map 359 needles * 580 rows front knit bed back knit bed
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61
_02.B | Small Scale Prototypes
RELAXED CONDITION
_In-Lay small Physical Models Explorations Through exploration and experimentation with physical models, using lycra textile, 2 mm thickness rods, and 2 mm thickness elastic ropes, a series of new tensile knitted component was created. These components were classified into Types [see next page pp.68-69]
a
Focusing on the 3 different material elements, rods is a compressive structural element while textile and elastic rope are tensile. On example a, on Type 2 component, the transformable bending initiates by the pulling of the elastic rope which stresses the fabric which in turn bends the outline rod. On example b, the 2 "Leaf"-like components interact with each other since they have a common connection point on their top. Therefore, apart from their individual bending [like example a], the bending of one affects the other, as well.
b
On example c, the elastic rope acts differently. By pulling the ropes, the rods are firstly affected, and then the textile is stressed. On example d, the elastic rope pulling point is in the middle of the structure and the transformation is happening underneath the structure. From these prototypes, the "Leaf" [Type 2] prototype was selected for further research and exploration.
c
d 62
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STRESSED CONDITION
TRANSFORMATIONS
IN-LACE GRAPH
Type 1
Type22 Type
Type 1 Type 1
Type x2 2 Type 2 2Type
Typ
Prototype
Element
Type 3
Combination Prototype Prototype
Relaxed state Element Element
Type 1 Type 1 Type 1
Element
Type 2 Combination Combination Combination
Type
Relaxed stateRelaxed state
Element Element Element
Prototype
x3 3 TypeType 3 Type33 Type
Stressed state CombinationCombination
Prototype Prototype Prototype
Type 1
Type 2 Type 2 Type 2
Type 3
Type 4
Type 4
Stressed stateStressed state
RelaxedRelaxed state Relaxed state state
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_02.B | Small Scale Prototypes Design Typologies TYPE 1
PROTOTYPE
COMPONENT
COMBINATION
RELAXED STATE
STREESED STATE
64
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TYPE 2
TYPE 3
TYPE 4
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65
_02.C | Product Design; the Pringle
66
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67
_02.C | Product Design; the Pringle Digital Explorations_Simulation RELAXED CONDITION
In this digital testing, the aim is to observe different transformation cases based on different in-lay graphs in a faster way than producing them all physically. The products' structural behavior, is a derivative of the digital simulation with "Kangaroo II" plugin for "Grasshopper". a
In the following digital exploration diagrams, the Placeholder represents the compressive rods, while the "InLace" graph represents the transformable factor of the tensile elastic ropes.
b
Square
"InLace"
c
_Square Rod Place-Holder [ Type 1 ] In this digital catalog , a variety of deformations caused by different "Inlace" graphs, depict the diversity of transformations, while some useful conclusions can be drawn. d
68
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
STRESSED CONDITION
TRANSFORMATIONS
IN-LACE GRAPH
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
69
_02.C | Product Design; the Pringle Digital Explorations_Patterns
The texture that was created for this product expresses the curvature of the pringle-form geometry in different deformation states, with a variation of colors and lines. This diagram correlates the performances of the partition wall component with the corresponding pattern.
_Solid Geometry The 6 different "Pringle" components represent the same component in 6 different stressed conditions.
_Curvature Analysis Through "Mesh Curvature" 1 plugin in "Grasshopper", a colored mesh that represents the curvature analysis of the mesh geometry is generated for all of the 6 "Pringle" condition states.
_Remapping in the Meshface Grid Informed by the count of meshfaces of the mesh geometry, the curvature analysis is further analyzed on the meshface grid, occupying the closest to the average curvature color in each mesh-face domain. According to the final pattern style, stripes, ribs, etc. need further computational processes.
_Final Pattern In these diagrammatic renderings, the patterning is mapping to specific behavior of the fabric in each component.
1 "Mesh Curvature" plugin by Petras Vestartas https://www.food4rhino.com/app/mesh-curvature
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STRESSED CONDITION
RELAXED CONDITION
TRANSFORMATIONS
SOLID GEOMETRY
CURVATURE ANALYSIS
REMAPPING IN THE MESHFACE GRID
FINAL PATTERN
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
71
_02.C | Product Design; the Pringle Physical Prototypes_Transformability
_Instruction Card & Tools In order to import the inLace technique and the elastic rope into the future Pringle prototypes, it is mandatory to be used a Notation Map that defines the specific position that each hole should be knitted. Each position is specified by the intersection of two imaginary lines; the needle and the row line.
100
0
needles
For the fabrication of the physical models, it is used a collection of tools that includes: a Brother Knitting machine KH940, cones of yarns, needles, extra weights, a punching machine, rods, stops, an iron and a Stitching machine.
100
rows
holes position Fig53 | Holes Position Notation Map
72
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
Fig54 | Tools for protorypes
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
73
_02.C | Product Design; the Pringle Physical Prototypes
y _Physical Prototype 1 This prototype explores the combination of two different ways of controlling the final geometry.
x
On X axis, the manipulation of the shape is made with material properties. While the whole fabric is mainly knitted with lycra, there is a thick stripe in the middle of it which is knitted with a combination of wool and lycra together. This gives a push to the frame to be stressed directly from the fabric itself. On Y axis, the manipulation of the geometry is made with the inLaced elastic rope. That was the first try to offer the chance to the user to make his own desitions on the product by stretching and relaxing the elastic rope. On the next pages, one could observe the remarkable difference that this approach provokes. As it concerns the shape of the knitted piece, it was knitted in a rectangular shape and then it was cut the unnecessary pieces.
Axis x | Material properties Axis y | inLace technique
Physical Representation Technical Analysis
0
20
Lycra 470 rows Tension 5
Wool & Lycra 50 rows Tension 5
Lycra 470 rows Tension 5
holes position
74
Fig55 | Technical representation of holes' position and horizontal rows
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49 holes Fig56 | Cutting off the unnesessary pieces
Fig57 | Keeping a circular frame along with an offset for the stitching part
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
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_02.C | Product Design; the Pringle Physical Prototypes
Fig58 | Deformation Technical Diagram
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AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
Fig59 | Deformation of the Physical model
Fig60 | InLace technique and yarns in detail
Fig61 | Knitting Process
Fig62 | Inserting the elastic rope in between holes
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
77
_02.C | Product Design; the Pringle Physical Prototypes
_Physical Prototype 2 There is a differentiation between this prototype and the previous one in two parameters: a | In this study, it is used a different inLace graph that has four connection points to the frame. Thus, from a technical point of view, it was necessary to recalculate and re-define the proper position of the holes onto the fabric. b | The final circular shape of the knitted piece was produced directly from the machine by activating or deactivating the right amount of needles from the bed of the knitting machine.
Fig63 | Holes after knitting process finishes
Physical Representation Technical Analysis
20
52 45 38 31 24 17 10 3 3 10 17 24 31 38 45 52
Fig64 | Technical representation of holes' position and horizontal rows
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Fig65 | Knitting in process
ending pont of knitting
8 45 52
45 holes
reduce needles
add needles
starting pont of knitting Fig66 | Shaping Technique
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
79
_02.C | Product Design; the Pringle Physical Prototypes
_02.C | Product Design; the Pringle Physical Prototypes
Fig67 | Capture 1sec after anchoring the last point
Fig68 | Capture 5sec after anchoring the last point
_Physical Prototype 3 This prototype explores the potential of anchoring the knitted piece onto the frame. The position of anchor points affects the fiberglass rodes by transforming the whole shape.
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Moreover, the deformation of the linear pattern close to the anchor points could give advanced aesthetic results.
Fig69 | Deformation of Pattern
Fig70 | Deformation of Pattern in detail
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
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84
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85
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf
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87
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Digital Explorations_Simulation RELAXED CONDITION
a
Triangle
"InLace"
b
_Triangular Rod Place-Holder The placeholder of this product is a triangle, having different rod geometry from the one that "Pringle" had. Testing different "InLace" graphs digitally on a common placeholder, a variety of opportunities can emerge based on different transformable parameters.
88
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
c
STRESSED CONDITION
TRANSFORMATIONS
IN-LACE GRAPH
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
89
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Digital Explorations_Pattern
Perpective Perpective view view
_Curvature Analysis Pattern Similar to the "Pringle", the pattern on this model is based on the curvature analysis of the geometry. However, the difference between them is that the pattern this time is organized by regions of colors and not with lines as before.
solid geometry solid solid geometry geometry
Top view TopTop view view
curvature curvature curvature analyseanalyse analyse
Fig71 | Solid Geometry
solid solid geometry geometry
apply to apply mesh apply to on mesh to fabric mesh on fabric on fabric
knit i
Fig72 | Curvature Analysis
curvature curvature analyse analyse
apply a
TopTop view view
Fig74 | Plan | Solid Geometry
solid geometry solid solid geometry geometry 90
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
Fig75 | Plan | Curvature Analysis
curvature curvature curvature analyseanalyse analyse
Fig76 | Plan | Remapping in the meshface grid
apply to apply mesh apply to on mesh to fabric mesh on fabric on fabric
knit i
knit in practice
Fig73 | Remapping in the meshface grid
apply to mesh on fabric
Fig77 | Plan | Leaf Pattern
knit in practice
Fig78 | Leaf Pattern
knit in practice AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
91
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Fabrication
_1:1 Scale Model in Detail Despite the fact that its dimensions depend on the range of the transformation, we could estimate them to 3m height X 1.4m width and 2m height and 1.8m width in relaxed and full stressed position respectively.
Fig79 | Back & Front View
On the next page, there is a detailed diagram of all parts that configure the final product. They will be all emphatically analyzed through this section.
relaxed state
stressed state
Fig80 | Side View
relaxed state
Fig81 | Perspective View
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AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
stressed state
knitted piece
50
0m
m
upper node
rods' nodes
580mm
middle node
m
0m
86
11cm*2
8.5cm*6
7cm*3
glass fibre rods
base
elastic rope
Fig82 | Leaf Component in Detail
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
93
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Typology of Patches
_efficiency of knits The knitted piece is organized into loose and strong knits according to the specific demands that each area requires. For example, next to the frame or holes, were used stronger yarns than other areas. This means that the design of the pattern does not reflect only to aesthetic parameters, but mostly on functional ones. Thus, stripes next to the holes are getting thicker as going down, because bottom holes need more support than the upper ones. Furthermore, while our ambition is to produce one single knitted piece, this seems unfeasible -in this phase of the project- because we are currently using a manual knitting machine. As a consequence of this, the knitted piece is split into patches which in the end are stitched together. On the following pages is illustrated the technical analysis of each patch.
function breathable areas selection of yarn lycra
function supporting area for the frame/ holes selection of yarn wool + lycra Fig83 | Knits' organization
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AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
TYPE 4
TYPE 3
TYPE 2
TYPE 1
TYPE 2
TYPE 3
Fig84 | Typology of Patches
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
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_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Technical Analysis of Patches_Type1 (-) (+) 100 90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90 100
needle bed of the machine reduce needles
add needles
0
(-)
1 3
4
5 9
11
6
7
8
13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29
12
30
31
32
33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 59 51 53 55 57 59 61
36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 58 60 62
63
64
65 67 69 71 73 75 77 79 81 83 85 87 89 91
66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 90 92
93
94
95
96
97 99 101 103 105 107 109 111 113 115 117 119 121 123
98 100 102 104 106 108 110 112 114 116 118 120 122 124
125
126
127
128
129 131 133 135 137 139 141 143 145 147 149 151 153
130 132 134 136 138 140 142 144 146 148 150 152 154
155
156
157
158
159
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161
162
163 165 167 169 171 173 175 177 179 181 183 185
164 166 168 170 172 174 176 178 180 182 184 186
187
188
189
190
191 193 195 197 199 201
192 194 196 198 200 202
Fig85 | Technical analysis of crucial knits
96
10
14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28
reduce needles
KNIT
(+)
2
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
add needles
20 rows
ROW
NEEDLE
MATERIAL
KNIT
ROW
NEEDLE
MATERIAL
KN
0
0
lycra
41
416
72 (-)
lycra
82
1
20
36 (-)
lycra
42
416
72 (+)
lycra
83
2
20
36 (+)
lycra
43
436
72 (-)
lycra
84
436
72 (+)
lycra
85
0
3
40
50 (-)
lycra
44
4
40
50 (+)
lycra
45
456
71 (-)
lycra
86
5
60
61 (-)
lycra
46
456
71 (+)
lycra
87
6
60
61 (+)
lycra
47
476
71 (-)
lycra
88
7
80
69 (-)
lycra
48
476
71 (+)
lycra
89
69 (+)
lycra
49
496
70 (-)
lycra
90
8
80
9
100
77 (-)
lycra
50
496
70 (+)
lycra
91
10
100
77(+)
lycra
51
516
69 (-)
lycra
92
516
69 (+)
lycra
93
11
120
83 (-)
lycra
52
12
120
83 (+)
lycra
53
536
68 (-)
lycra
94
13
140
83 (-)
lycra
54
536
68 (+)
lycra
95
14
140
83 (+)
lycra
55
556
68 (-)
lycra
96
15
160
82 (-)
lycra
56
556
68 (+)
lycra
97
82 (+)
lycra
57
576
67 (-)
lycra
98
16
160
17
180
81 (-)
lycra
58
576
67 (+)
lycra
99
18
180
81 (+)
lycra
59
583
67 (-)
lycra
100
19
200
81 (-)
lycra
60
583
67 (+)
lycra
101
20
200
81 (+)
lycra
61
603
66 (-)
wool+lycra
102
21
220
80 (-)
lycra
62
603
66 (+)
wool+lycra
103
22
220
80 (+)
lycra
63
623
65 (-)
wool+lycra
104
23
240
79 (-)
lycra
64
623
65 (+)
wool+lycra
105
643
64 (-)
wool+lycra
106
24
240
79 (+)
lycra
65
25
260
79 (-)
lycra
66
643
64 (+)
wool+lycra
107
26
260
79 (+)
lycra
67
659
63 (-)
wool+lycra
108
27
280
78 (-)
lycra
68
659
63 (+)
wool+lycra
109
28
280
78 (+)
lycra
69
679
63 (-)
wool+lycra
110
29
300
77 (-)
wool+lycra
70
679
63 (+)
wool+lycra
111
30
300
77 (+)
wool+lycra
71
699
62 (-)
wool+lycra
112
31
320
76 (-)
wool+lycra
72
699
62 (+)
wool+lycra
113
32
320
76 (+)
wool+lycra
73
719
61 (-)
wool+lycra
114
33
340
75 (-)
wool+lycra
74
719
61 (+)
wool+lycra
115
34
340
75 (+)
wool+lycra
75
739
61 (-)
wool+lycra
116
35
356
74 (-)
wool+lycra
76
739
61 (+)
wool+lycra
117
36
356
74 (+)
wool+lycra
77
759
60 (-)
wool+lycra
118
37
376
74 (-)
lycra
78
759
60 (+)
wool+lycra
119
38
376
74 (+)
lycra
79
779
59 (-)
wool+lycra
120
39
396
73 (-)
lycra
80
779
59 (+)
wool+lycra
121
40
396
73 (+)
lycra
81
799
59 (-)
wool+lycra
122
E
MATERIAL
KNIT
ROW
NEEDLE
MATERIAL
KNIT
ROW
NEEDLE
MATERIAL
KNIT
ROW
NEEDLE
MATERIAL
lycra
82
799
59 (+)
wool+lycra
123
lycra
83
819
58 (-)
wool+lycra
124
1172
45 (-)
wool+lycra
164
1540
29 (+)
wool+lycra
1172
45 (+)
wool+lycra
165
1556
29 (-)
lycra
84
819
58 (+)
wool+lycra
wool+lycra
125
1192
44 (-)
wool+lycra
166
1556
29 (+)
lycra
wool+lycra
85
839
57 (-)
lycra
86
839
57 (+)
wool+lycra
126
1192
44 (+)
wool+lycra
167
1576
28 (-)
lycra
wool+lycra
127
1212
43 (-)
wool+lycra
168
1576
28 (+)
lycra
1212
43 (+)
wool+lycra
169
1596
27 (-)
lycra
lycra
87
859
57 (-)
wool+lycra
128
lycra
88
859
57 (+)
wool+lycra
129
1232
42 (-)
wool+lycra
170
1596
27 (+)
lycra
lycra
89
864
57 (-)
wool+lycra
130
1232
42 (+)
wool+lycra
171
1616
27 (-)
lycra
lycra
90
864
57 (+)
wool+lycra
131
1252
41 (-)
wool+lycra
172
1616
27 (+)
lycra
lycra
91
884
56 (-)
wool+lycra
132
1252
41 (+)
wool+lycra
173
1636
26 (-)
lycra
lycra
92
884
56 (+)
wool+lycra
133
1257
41 (-)
wool+lycra
174
1636
26 (+)
lycra
lycra
93
904
55 (-)
wool+lycra
134
1257
41 (+)
wool+lycra
175
1656
25 (-)
lycra
lycra
94
904
55 (+)
wool+lycra
135
1277
40 (-)
lycra
176
1656
25 (+)
lycra
lycra
95
924
54 (-)
wool+lycra
136
1277
40 (+)
lycra
177
1676
24 (-)
lycra
lycra
96
924
54 (+)
wool+lycra
137
1297
39 (-)
lycra
178
1676
24 (+)
lycra
lycra
97
944
53 (-)
wool+lycra
138
1297
39 (+)
lycra
179
1696
24 (-)
lycra
lycra
98
944
53 (+)
wool+lycra
139
1317
38 (-)
lycra
180
1696
24 (+)
lycra
lycra
99
964
52 (-)
wool+lycra
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1317
38 (+)
lycra
lycra
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964
52 (+)
wool+lycra
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1337
37 (-)
lycra
181 182
1697 1697
24 (-) 24 (+)
lycra lycra
lycra
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969
52 (-)
wool+lycra
142
1337
37 (+)
lycra
183
1717
23 (-)
wool+lycra
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23 (+)
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wool+lycra
102
969
52 (+)
wool+lycra
143
1357
37 (-)
lycra
184
wool+lycra
103
989
51 (-)
lycra
144
1357
37 (+)
lycra
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1737
22 (-)
wool+lycra
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22 (+)
wool+lycra
1757
21 (-)
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104
989
51 (+)
lycra
145
1377
36 (-)
wool+lycra
105
1009
50 (-)
lycra
146
1377
36 (+)
lycra
187
wool+lycra
106
1009
50 (+)
lycra
147
1397
36 (-)
lycra
188
1757
21 (+)
wool+lycra
1777
20 (-)
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wool+lycra
107
1029
50 (-)
lycra
148
1399
36 (+)
lycra
189
wool+lycra
108
1029
50 (+)
lycra
149
1419
35 (-)
lycra
190
1777
20 (+)
wool+lycra
lycra
191
1797
19 (-)
wool+lycra
1797
19 (+)
wool+lycra
wool+lycra
109
1049
49 (-)
lycra
150
1419
35 (+)
wool+lycra
110
1049
49 (+)
lycra
151
1420
35 (-)
lycra
192
wool+lycra
111
1069
48 (-)
lycra
152
1420
35 (+)
lycra
193
1817
18 (-)
wool+lycra
wool+lycra
194
1817
18 (+)
wool+lycra
1838
17 (-)
wool+lycra
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112
1069
48 (+)
lycra
153
1440
34 (-)
wool+lycra
113
1089
48 (-)
lycra
154
1440
34 (+)
wool+lycra
195
wool+lycra
114
1089
48 (+)
lycra
155
1460
33 (-)
wool+lycra
196
1838
17 (+)
wool+lycra
197
1858
17 (-)
lycra
wool+lycra
115
1109
47 (-)
lycra
156
1460
33 (+)
wool+lycra
wool+lycra
116
1109
47 (+)
lycra
157
1480
32 (-)
wool+lycra
198
1858
17 (+)
lycra
199
1878
16 (-)
lycra
wool+lycra
117
1129
46 (-)
lycra
158
1480
32 (+)
wool+lycra
wool+lycra
118
1129
46 (+)
lycra
159
1500
31 (-)
wool+lycra
wool+lycra
119
1149
46 (-)
lycra
160
1500
31 (+)
wool+lycra
wool+lycra
120
1149
46 (+)
lycra
161
1520
30 (-)
wool+lycra
wool+lycra
121
1152
46 (-)
lycra
162
1520
30 (+)
wool+lycra
wool+lycra
122
1152
46 (+)
lycra
163
1540
29 (-)
wool+lycra
200
1878
16 (+)
lycra
201
1878
16 (+)
lycra
202
1878
16 (+)
lycra
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_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Technical Analysis of Patches_Type1_Holes Technique (-) (+) 100 90
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20
10
0
10
20
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90 100
needle bed of the machine add needles (-)
add needles (+)
20 rows
HOLE_ 1&2
HOLE_ 3&4
HOLE_ 5&6
HOLE_ 7&8
HOLE_ 9&10
HOLE_ 11&12
Fig86 | Defining the exact position of each hole into the fabric
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HOLE
ROW
NEEDLE
1
308
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2
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0
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611
0
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HOLE TECHNIQUE
Technical Analysis of Patches_Type1_Ripping Technique (-) (+) 100 90
80
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50
40
30
20
10
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90 100
needle bed of the machine
RIP
RIP_ 1→ 8
RIP_ 9→14
RIP_ 15→18
RIP_ 19→22
RIP_ 23→24
RIP_ 25→26
ROW
NEEDLE
MATERIAL
1
280→360
63→66 (-)
wool+lycra
2
280→360
47→50 (-)
wool+lycra
3
280→360
31→34 (-)
wool+lycra
4
280→360
16→19 (-)
wool+lycra
5
280→360
16→19 (+)
wool+lycra
6
280→360
31→34 (+)
wool+lycra
7
280→360
47→50 (+)
wool+lycra
8
280→360
63→66 (+)
wool+lycra
9
580→640
47→50 (-)
wool+lycra
10
580→640
31→34 (-)
wool+lycra
11
580→640
16→19 (-)
wool+lycra
12
580→640
16→19 (+)
wool+lycra
13
580→640
31→34 (+)
wool+lycra
14
580→640
47→50 (+)
wool+lycra
15
840→940
31→34 (-)
wool+lycra
16
840→940
16→19 (-)
wool+lycra
17
840→940
16→19 (+)
wool+lycra
18
840→940
31→34 (+)
wool+lycra
19
1120→1220
31→34 (-)
wool+lycra
20
1120→1220
16→19 (-)
wool+lycra
21
1120→1220
16→19 (+)
wool+lycra
22
1120→1220
31→34 (+)
wool+lycra
23
1380→1520
16→19 (-)
wool+lycra
24
1380→1520
16→19 (+)
wool+lycra
25
1680→1780
16→19 (-)
wool+lycra
26
1680→1780
16→19 (+)
wool+lycra
RIPPING TECHNIQUE
Fig87 | Defining the exact position of rips
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
99
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Technical Analysis of Patches_Type2 (-) (+) 100 90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90 100
needle bed of the machine
KNIT add needles
reduce needles
0 0 0 1 2 2 2 (+) 3 4 4 4 3 5 5 5 6 6 6 7 7 7 8 8 8 9 9 10 9 10 10 11 12 11 11 12 12 13 13 14 14 13 14 15 15 16 16 15 16 17 17 18 18 17 18 19 19 20 20 19 20 21 21 22 22 21 22 23 23 24 24 23 24 25 26 26 25 25 26 27 28 28 2727 28 29 29 30 30 29 30 31 31 32 32 32 33 31 33 34 34 35 33 35 36 36 36 37 37 38 38 35 38 39 39 40 40 37 40 41 41 42 42 39 42 43 43 44 44 41 44 45 45 46 46 43 46 47 47 48 48 45 48 49 49 50 50 47 50 51 51 52 52 59 52 51 54 53 53 54 54 53 56 55 55 56 56 55 58 57 57 58 58 57 58 59 59 60 60 59 60 61 61 62 62 61 62 63 63 64 64 63 64 65 65 66 66 67 67 68 68 65 66 69 70 70 67 69 68 71 72 72 69 71 70 73 74 74 71 73 72 75 75 76 76 73 74 77 78 78 75 77 76 79 80 80 77 79 78 79 80 81 81 82 82 81 83 82 83 84 84 83 85 84 85 86 86 86 85 87 87 88 88 87 88 89 89 90 90 89 90 92 92 91 91 91 92 94 94 93 93 93 94 96 96 95 95 98 98 97 97 95 96 99 99 100 100 97 98 101 101 102 102 99 103 103 104 104 100 101 102 106 106 104 105 105 103 108 108 106 107 107 105 110 110 108 109 109 107 112 112110 1 11 1 11 109 111 114 114112 1 13 1 13 113 114 116 116 115 115 115 116 118 118 117 117 117 118 120 120 119 119 119 120 122 122 121 121 121 122 124 124 123 123 123 124 126 126 125 125 125 126 128 128 127 127 130 130 129 129 127 128 132 132 131 131 129 130 134 134 133 133 131 132 136 136 135 135 133 134 138 138 137 137 135 136 140 140 139 139 137 138 139 140142 142 141 141 141 142144 144 143 143 143 144146 146 145 145 145 146 148 148 147 147 147 148 150 150 149 149 149 150 152 152 151 151 151 152 154 153 153 153 154 154 156 156 155 155 155 156 158 158 157 157 157 158 160 160 159 159 162 162 161 161 159 160 164 163 163 164 161 162 166 165 165 166 168 167 163 167 168 164 170 169 165 169 170 166 172 171 167 171172 168 170 174 174 173 169 173 172 176 176 175 171 175 174 178 178 177 173 177 175 176 180 180 179 179 178 182 182 181 177 181 179 180 184 184 183 181 183 182 186 186 1 85183 1 85 184 1881 87 188 1 87 185 186 1901 89 190 1 89 188 192 1 91 192 1 91187 194 1 93 194 1 93 189 190 196 1 95 196 1 95 191 192 198 1 97 198 1 97 193 200 200 1 99 1 99 194 202 202 195 201 201196 197 198 203 203 204 204 199 200 201 202
(-)
1
1
3
reduce needles
Fig88 | Technical analysis of crucial knits
100
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
ROW ROWKNITNEEDLE KNIT
0
0
0
1
20
1
20
2
2
20 rows
3
40
3
4
40
4
5
60
5
6
60
6
7
80
7
8
80
8
9
100
9
00
00 lycra
0 lycra
41 lycra
420 41
41 83 (-) 420
1 9 (-) 20
20 lycra 9 (-)
36 (-) lycra
42lycra
420 42
0 42 420
2 20
200 lycra
36 (+) lycra
43lycra
44043
84 (-) 440 43
44044
0 44 440
0 0
16 (-) 40 3 0
40 4
23 (-)60 5 0
60 6
340 34
35
360 35
36
360 36
37
380 37
38
380 38
39
400 39
40
400 40
460 46
0 46 460
lycra 0 456
71 (+) lycra
lycra
87
8 88087
47lycra 48lycra
480 47
86 (-) 480 47
lycra 86 (-) 476
71 (-) lycra
lycra
88
8 88088
480 48
0 48 480
lycra 0 476
71 (+) lycra
lycra
89
500 49
87 (-) 500 49
lycra 87 (-) 496
70 (-)lycra
lycra
90
500 50
0 50 500
lycra 0 496
70 (+)lycra
lycra
91
8 90089 9 90090 9 92091
92 93
lycra 0 120
lycra 83 (+)
53 lycra
540 53
89 (-) 540 53
lycra
94
lycra 44 (-) 140 lycra 0 140
lycra 83 (-) lycra 83 (+)
54lycra 55 lycra
540 54
0 54 540 90 (-) 560 55
lycra 0 536 lycra 90 556 (-)
68 (+)lycra 68 (-)lycra
lycra
95
lycra
96
lycra 48 (-) 160 lycra 0 160
lycra 82 (-) lycra 82 (+)
56lycra
560 56
68 (+)lycra 67 (-) lycra
97
580 57
lycra 0 556 lycra 90 (-) 576
lycra
57 lycra
0 56 560 90 (-) 580 57
lycra
98
lycra 52 (-) 180 lycra 0 180
81 (-)lycra lycra 81 (+)
0 58 580 91 (-) 600 59
lycra 0 576 lycra 91 583 (-)
67 (+)lycra 67 (-) lycra
lycra
99
9 98098 9 100099
lycra
100
10 1000 100
101
10 1020 101 10 1020 102
200 20
340 33
46lycra
lycra
200 19
34
61 (-)lycra
lycra
20
33
8 86086
lycra 23 (-) 60
69 (-) lycra
19
320 32
86
69 (+)lycra 68 (-)lycra
180 18
32
lycra
lycra 0 516 lycra 89 536 (-)
18
320 31
71 (-) lycra
lycra 88 (-) 516
180 17
300 30
lycra 85 (-) 456
0 52 520
160 16
31
85 (-) 460 45
88 (-) 520 51
17
30
8 86085
460 45
520 52
16
300 29
85
45lycra
520 51
160 15
280 28
lycra 50 (-) lycra 50 (+)
52 lycra
15
29
lycra 16 (-) 40 lycra 0 40
51 lycra
0 140 14 48 (-) 160 15
28
lycra
lycra 83 (-)
44 (-) 140 13
280 27
72 (+)lycra
lycra 77(+)
140 14
27
8 84084
lycra 0 436
44lycra
lycra 40 (-) 120
140 13
260 26
84
lycra 0 100
14
26
lycra
lycra 77 (-)
13
260 25
72 (-) lycra
lycra 35 (-) 100
0 120 12
240 24
8 84083
lycra 84 (-) 436
35 (-) 100 9
120 12
25
8 82082
83
49lycra 50lycra
12
24
82
lycra
lycra 69 (+)
80 8
0 100 10
240 23
lycra
72 (+)lycra
lycra 0 80
0
40 (-) 120 11
23
72 (-) lycra
lycra 0 416
lycra 69 (-)
120 11
220 22
416 lycra 83 (-)
lycra 61 (+)
100 10
22
KN ROW KN
lycra 0 60
11
220 21
KNIT
lycra 29 (-) 80
29 (-)80 7
10
21 add needles
KNIT KNIT NEEDLE ROW MATERIAL NEEDLENEEDLE MATERIAL NEEDLE MATERIAL MATERIAL ROW NEEDLE MATERIALROW KNIT ROW MATERIAL
0 160 16 52 (-)180 17 0 180 18 56 (-)200 19 0 200 20 59 (-)220 21 0 220 22 62 (-)240 23 0 240 24 65 (-)260 25
0 260 26 68 (-) 280 27 0 280 28 71 (-)300 29 0 300 30 73 (-)320 31 0 320 32 75 (-)340 33 0 340 34 77 (-)360 35 0 360 36 79 (-)380 37 0 380 38 81 (-)400 39 0 400 40
lycra 56 (-) 200 lycra 0 200 lycra 59 (-) 220 lycra 0 220 lycra 62 (-) 240 lycra 0 240 lycra 65 (-) 260 lycra 0 260
lycra 68 (-) 280 lycra 0 280 wool+lycra 71 (-) 300 wool+lycra 0 300 wool+lycra 73 (-) 320 wool+lycra 0 320 wool+lycra 75 (-) 340 wool+lycra 0 340 wool+lycra 77 (-) 356 wool+lycra 0 356 lycra 79 (-) 376 lycra 0 376 lycra 81 (-) 396 lycra 0 396
58lycra 59lycra
560 55
580 58 600 59
60 60 lycra 600 61 620 61 lycra lycra 62lycra 620 62 80 (-) lycra 63lycra 640 63 80 (+) lycra 64lycra 640 64 79 (-) lycra 65lycra 660 65 79 (+) lycra 66lycra 660 66 79 (-) lycra 67lycra 680 67 79 (+) 680 68 lycra 68 78 (-) lycra 700 69 lycra 69 78 (+) lycra 70 700 70 wool+lycra 77 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 71 720 71 77 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 72 720 72 76 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 73 740 73 76 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 74 740 74 75 (-) wool+lycra 75 wool+lycra 760 75 75 (+) wool+lycra 76 wool+lycra 760 76 74 (-) wool+lycra 77 wool+lycra 780 77 74 (+) wool+lycra lycra 78 780 78 74 (-) lycra lycra 79 800 79 74 (+) lycra lycra 80 800 80 73 (-) lycra lycra 81 820 81 73 (+) lycra
81 (-)lycra lycra 81 (+)
0 60 600 91 (-) 620 61
0 620 62 91 (-)640 63 0 640 64 91 (-)660 65 0 660 66 91 (-)680 67 0 680 68 91 (-)700 69 0 700 70 91 (-)720 71 0 720 72 90 (-) 740 73 0 740 74 90 (-) 760 75 0 760 76 89 (-) 780 77 0 780 78 89 (-) 800 79 0 800 80 88 (-) 820 81
lycra 0 583 wool+lycra 91 603 (-) wool+lycra 0 603 wool+lycra 91 (-) 623 wool+lycra 0 623 wool+lycra 91 (-) 643 wool+lycra 0 643 wool+lycra 91 (-) 659 wool+lycra 0 659 wool+lycra 91 (-) 679 wool+lycra 0 679 wool+lycra 91 (-) 699 wool+lycra 0 699 wool+lycra 90 (-) 719 wool+lycra 0 719 wool+lycra 90 (-) 739 wool+lycra 0 739 wool+lycra 89 (-) 759 wool+lycra 0 759 wool+lycra 89 (-) 779 wool+lycra 0 779 88 (-) wool+lycra 799
67 (+)lycra lycra wool+lycra 66 (-) wool+lycra
wool+lycra 66 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 65 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 65 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 64 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 64 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 63 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 63 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 63 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 63 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 62 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 62 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 61 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 61 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 61 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 61 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 60 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 60 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 59 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 59 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 59 (-) wool+lycra
102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122
9 92092 9 94093 9 94094
9 96095 9 96096 9 98097
10 1040 103 10 1040 104
10 1060105 106010 106 108010 107 108010 108 1100 10 109 1100 11 110 1120 11 111 1120 11 112 1140 11 113 1140 11 114 1160 11 115 1160 11 116 1180 11 117 1180 11 118 120011 119 120012 120 1220 12 121 1220 12 122
KNIT
ROW
MATERIAL
KNIT
ROW
NEEDLE
MATERIAL
KNIT
ROW
ra
82
820
ra
83
840
0
wool+lycra
123
1240
64 (-)
wool+lycra
164
1640
0
wool+lycra
87 (-)
wool+lycra
124
1240
0
wool+lycra
165
1660
36 (-)
ra
84
840
wool+lycra
0
wool+lycra
125
1260
63 (-)
wool+lycra
166
1660
0
ra
wool+lycra
85
cra
86
860
86 (-)
wool+lycra
126
1260
0
wool+lycra
167
1680
35 (-)
lycra
860
0
wool+lycra
127
1280
62 (-)
wool+lycra
168
1680
0
cra
lycra
87
880
85 (-)
wool+lycra
128
1280
0
wool+lycra
169
1700
33 (-)
lycra
cra
88
880
0
wool+lycra
129
1300
60 (-)
wool+lycra
170
1700
0
lycra
cra
89
900
84 (-)
wool+lycra
130
1300
0
wool+lycra
171
1720
32 (-)
lycra
cra
90
900
0
wool+lycra
131
1320
59 (-)
wool+lycra
172
1720
0
lycra
cra
91
920
83 (-)
wool+lycra
132
1320
0
wool+lycra
173
1740
31 (-)
lycra
cra
92
920
0
wool+lycra
133
1340
58 (-)
wool+lycra
174
1740
0
lycra
cra
93
940
82 (-)
wool+lycra
134
1340
0
wool+lycra
175
1760
30 (-)
lycra
cra
94
940
0
wool+lycra
135
1360
56 (-)
lycra
176
1760
0
lycra
81 (-)
wool+lycra
136
1360
0
lycra
177
1780
29 (-)
lycra
ERIAL
NEEDLE
NEEDLE
MATERIAL
cra
95
960
cra
96
960
0
wool+lycra
137
1380
55 (-)
lycra
178
1780
0
lycra
cra
97
980
80 (-)
wool+lycra
138
1380
0
lycra
179
1800
27 (-)
lycra
1400
54 (-)
lycra
180
1800
0
lycra
98
980
0
wool+lycra
139
cra
99
1000
79 (-)
wool+lycra
140
1400
0
lycra
181
1820
26 (-)
lycra
cra
100
1000
0
wool+lycra
141
1420
52 (-)
lycra
182
1820
0
lycra
cra
101
1020
78 (-)
wool+lycra
142
1420
0
lycra
183
1840
25 (-)
wool+lycra
+lycra
102
1020
0
wool+lycra
143
1440
51 (-)
lycra
184
1840
0
wool+lycra
77 (-)
lycra
144
1440
0
lycra
185
1860
24 (-)
wool+lycra
cra
+lycra
103
+lycra
104
0
lycra
145
1460
49 (-)
lycra
186
1860
0
wool+lycra
+lycra
105
1060
76 (-)
lycra
146
1460
0
lycra
187
1880
23 (-)
wool+lycra
+lycra
106
1060
0
lycra
147
1480
lycra
188
1880
0
wool+lycra
+lycra
107
1080
74 (-)
lycra
148
1480
0
lycra
189
1900
22 (-)
wool+lycra
+lycra
108
1080
0
lycra
149
1500
47 (-)
lycra
190
1900
0
wool+lycra
+lycra
109
1100
73 (-)
lycra
150
1500
0
lycra
191
1920
21 (-)
wool+lycra
+lycra
110
1100
0
lycra
151
1520
45 (-)
lycra
192
1920
0
wool+lycra
+lycra
111
1120
72 (-)
lycra
152
1520
0
lycra
193
1940
20 (-)
wool+lycra
1540
wool+lycra
194
1940
0
wool+lycra
1040 1040
48 (-)
+lycra
112
1120
0
lycra
153
44 (-)
+lycra
113
1140
71 (-)
lycra
154
1540
0
wool+lycra
195
1960
19 (-)
wool+lycra
+lycra
114
1140
0
lycra
155
1560
43 (-)
wool+lycra
196
1960
0
wool+lycra
69 (-)
lycra
156
1560
0
wool+lycra
197
1980
18 (-)
lycra
+lycra
115
1160
+lycra
116
1160
0
lycra
157
1580
41 (-)
wool+lycra
198
1980
0
lycra
+lycra
117
1180
68 (-)
lycra
158
1580
0
wool+lycra
199
2000
17 (-)
lycra
1600
40 (-)
wool+lycra
200
2000
0
lycra
+lycra
118
1180
0
lycra
159
+lycra
119
1200
67 (-)
lycra
160
1600
0
wool+lycra
201
2020
16 (-)
lycra
+lycra
120
1200
0
lycra
161
1620
39 (-)
wool+lycra
202
2020
0
lycra
+lycra
121
1220
66 (-)
lycra
162
1620
0
wool+lycra
203
2040
16 (-)
lycra
+lycra
122
1220
0
lycra
163
1640
37 (-)
wool+lycra
204
2040
0
lycra
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
101
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Technical Analysis of Patches_Type3
(-) (+) 100 90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90 100
KNITKNITROWROWNEEDLE NEEDLEMATERIAL MATERIAL
NEEDLE MATERIAL KNITKNIT ROWROWNEEDLE MATERIAL
KN
needle bed of the machine reduce needles
add needles
0
(-)
1
(+)
2
3
4
5 9
11
6
7
8
13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27
3 5 7 9
29
13
15 17
7
11 13
14
12
33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 59 51 53 55 57 59 61
185 187
Fig89 | Technical analysis of189crucial knits 191 193 195 197 199 201
102
10 14
0 12 4 6 8 12
0 2 4 6 8 10
12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28
30 16 16 18 18 32 19 19 20 20 36 21 21 22 22 38 23 23 24 24 40 25 25 26 26 42 27 27 28 28 44 30 30 29 29 46 31 31 32 32 48 33 33 34 34 50 35 35 36 36 52 37 37 38 38 54 39 39 40 40 56 41 41 42 42 58 43 43 44 44 58 45 45 46 46 60 48 48 47 47 62 49 49 50 50 63 64 51 51 52 52 65 66 54 54 53 53 56 56 67 68 55 55 69 70 57 57 58 58 71 72 60 60 59 59 73 74 62 62 61 61 75 76 64 64 63 63 77 78 66 66 65 65 79 80 68 68 67 67 81 82 70 70 69 69 83 84 71 71 72 72 86 85 73 73 74 74 87 88 75 75 76 76 89 90 77 77 78 78 91 92 79 79 80 80 93 94 81 81 82 82 83 83 84 84 95 96 85 85 86 86 97 98 87 87 88 88 99 100 90 90 89 89 101 102 91 91 92 92 103 104 93 93 94 94 105 106 96 96 95 95 108 needles 107 add needles 97 97 98 98 109 110 99 99 111 112 100 100 101 101 113 114 102 102 115 116 104 104 103 103 117 118 106 106 105 105 119 120 108 108 107 107 121 122 109 109 110 110 123 124 112 112 111 111 125 126 114 114 113 113 116 116 115 115 127 128 118 118 117 117 129 130 120 120 119 119 131 122 122 132 121 121 133 124 124 134 123 123 135 136 126 126 138 125 125 137 128 128140 127 127 139 130 130 129 129 141 142 132 132 131 131 143 144 134 134 133 133 145 146 136 136 135 135 147 148 138 150138 137 137 149 151 140 152 140 139 139 153 142154 142 141 141 144 155 156 144 143 143 146 146 145 145 157 158 148 148 147 147 159 160 149 149 150 150 151 151 162 161 152 152 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184 31
reduce
3
5
9
11 15 17
1
10
186 188 190 192 194 196 198 200 202
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
20 rows
8 KN 8
0
0
1
1
42
wool+lycra 41 420 420 49 (-)49 (-) wool+lycra KNIT ROW NEEDLE MATERIAL wool+lycra 42 420 420 26 (-)26 (-) wool+lycra
2
2
20 0 20
60 (-)60 (-) 0 wool+lycra wool+lycra 0 lycra
43
wool+lycra 43 41 440 440 416 50 (-)50 72(-)(-)wool+lycra lycra
3
3
40 40 1
34 (-)34 (-)36 wool+lycra 20 (-) wool+lycra lycra
wool+lycra 44 4442 440 440 416 28 (-)28 72(-)(+)wool+lycra lycra
8 82 8 83
4
4
40 2 40
45
5
5
wool+lycra (-)(-)wool+lycra 45 43 460 460 436 51 (-)5172 lycra (-)(+)wool+lycra wool+lycra 46 46 44 460 460 436 31 (-)3172 lycra
8 84 8 85
6
6
60 3 60 60 4 60
60 (-)60 (-)36wool+lycra 20 (+) wool+lycra lycra 25 (-)25 (-)50 wool+lycra 40 (-) wool+lycra lycra 60 (-)60 (-)50 wool+lycra 40 (+) wool+lycra lycra 16 (-)16 (-) 61wool+lycra 60 (-) wool+lycra lycra
wool+lycra 47 47 45 480 480 456 52 (-)5271(-) (-) wool+lycra lycra
8 86 8 87
60 (-)60 (-)61wool+lycra 60 (+) wool+lycra lycra 9 (-) 9 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 80 69 (-) lycra
wool+lycra 49 49 47 500 500 476 53 (-)5371(-) (-) wool+lycra lycra
7
7
8
8
9
9
10
10
11
11
12
12
13
13
14
14
15
15
16
16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40
0 0 60 (-)60 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra KNIT ROW NEEDLE MATERIAL 20 20 46 (-)46 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra
80 5 80 80 6 80 100 7 100 100 8 100
41
wool+lycra 48 48 46 480 480 456 30 (-)30 71(-) (+) wool+lycra lycra 50
48 (-)48 (-)69 wool+lycra 80 (+) wool+lycra lycra 120 2 (-) 2 (-) 77 wool+lycra 9 120 100 (-) wool+lycra lycra 120 120 38 (-) 38 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 10 100 77(+) lycra
51
140 4 (-) 4 (-) 83 wool+lycra 11 140 120 (-) wool+lycra lycra 140 140 30 (-) 30 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 12 120 83 (+) lycra 160 9 (-) 9 (-) 83 wool+lycra 13 160 140 (-) wool+lycra lycra
54
160 160 22 (-)22 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 14 140 83 (+) lycra 180 17 180 14 (-) 14 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 15 160 82 (-) lycra 18 180 180 16 (-)16 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 16 160 82 (+) lycra 19 200 200 19 (-)19 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 17 180 81 (-) lycra 20 200 200 10 (-)10 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 18 180 81 (+) lycra 21 220 220 23 (-)23 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 19 200 81 (-) lycra 22 220 220 5 (-) 5 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 20 200 81 (+) lycra 23 240 240 27 (-)27 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 21 220 80 (-) lycra 24 240 240 0 (-) 0 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 22 220 80 (+) lycra 25 260 260 30 (-)30 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 23 240 79 (-) lycra 26 260 260 4 (-) 4 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 24 240 79 (+) lycra 27 280 280 33 (-)33 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 25 260 79 (-) lycra 28 280 280 8 (-) 8 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 26 260 79 (+) lycra 29 300 300 36 (-)36 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 27 280 78 (-) lycra 30 300 300 12 (-)12 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 28 280 78 (+) lycra 31 320 320 39 (-)39 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 29 300 77 (-) wool+lycra 32 320 320 15 (-)15 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 30 300 77 (+) wool+lycra 33 340 340 42 (-)42 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 31 320 76 (-) wool+lycra 34 340 340 18 (-)18 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 32 320 76 (+) wool+lycra 35 360 360 44 (-)44 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 33 340 75 (-) wool+lycra 36 360 360 20 (-)20 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 34 340 75 (+) wool+lycra 37 380 380 46 (-)46 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 35 356 74 (-) wool+lycra 38 380 380 22 (-)22 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 36 356 74 (+) wool+lycra 39 400 400 47 (-)47 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 37 376 74 (-) lycra 40 400 400 25 (-)25 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 38 376 74 (+) lycra
52 53 55 56 57 58
wool+lycra 50 48 500 500 476 30 (-)30 71(-) (+) wool+lycra lycra 50 (-) 50 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 51 49 520 520 496 70 (-) lycra (-)(+)wool+lycra wool+lycra 52 50 520 520 496 31 (-)3170 lycra wool+lycra wool+lycra 51 (-) 51 (-) 53 51 540 540 516 69 (-) lycra (-)(+)wool+lycra wool+lycra 54 52 540 540 516 31 (-)3169 lycra wool+lycra 55 53 560 560 (-)(-)wool+lycra 536 52 (-)5268 lycra wool+lycra 56 54 560 560 (-)(+)wool+lycra 536 31 (-)3168 lycra 53 (-) 53 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 57 55 580 580 556 68 (-) lycra wool+lycra 58 56 580 580 (-)(+)wool+lycra 556 31 (-)3168 lycra
59
59 57 600 600 576 60 60 58 600 600 576 61 61 59 620 620 583 62 62 620 620 60 583 63 63 640 640 61 603 64 64 640 640 62 603 65 65 660 660 63 623 66 66 660 660 64 623 67 67 680 680 65 643 68 68 680 680 66 643 69 69 700 700 67 659 70 70 700 700 68 659 71 71 720 720 69 679 72 72 720 720 70 679 73 73 740 740 71 699 74 74 740 740 72 699 75 75 760 760 73 719 76 76 760 760 74 719 77 77 780 780 75 739 78 78 780 780 76 739 79 79 800 800 77 759 80 80 800 800 78 759 81 81 820 820 79 779
wool+lycra 52 (-)5267(-)(-)wool+lycra lycra wool+lycra wool+lycra 30 (-)30 (-) 67 (+) lycra
52 (-)52 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 67 (-) lycra 30 (-)30 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 67 (+) lycra 51 (-)51 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 66 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 29 (-)29 (-) wool+lycra 66 (+) wool+lycra 50 (-)50 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 65 (-) wool+lycra 28 (-)28 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 65 (+) wool+lycra 49 (-)49 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 64 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 27 (-)27 (-) wool+lycra 64 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 48 (-)48 (-) wool+lycra 63 (-) wool+lycra 26 (-)26 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 63 (+) wool+lycra 47 (-)47 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 63 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 24 (-)24 (-) wool+lycra 63 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 46 (-)46 (-) wool+lycra 62 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 23 (-)23 (-) wool+lycra 62 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 44 (-)44 (-) wool+lycra 61 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 22 (-)22 (-) wool+lycra 61 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 43 (-)43 (-) wool+lycra 61 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 20 (-)20 (-) wool+lycra 61 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 41 (-)41 (-) wool+lycra 60 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 19 (-)19 (-) wool+lycra 60 (+) wool+lycra 40 (-)40 (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 59 (-) wool+lycra
9 88 9 89
9 90 9 91
9 92 9 93
9 94 9 95
9 96 9 97
10 98 10 99 10 100 10 101 10 102 10 103 10 104 10 105 10 106 10 107 11 108 11 109 11 110 11 111 11 112 11 113 11 114 11 115 11 116 11 117 12 118 12 119 12 120
39
396
73 (-)
lycra
80
779
59 (+)
wool+lycra
121
40
396
73 (+)
lycra
81
799
59 (-)
wool+lycra
122
OW
NEEDLE
MATERIAL
KNIT
ROW
420
49 (-)
wool+lycra
82
820
20
26 (-)
wool+lycra
83
40
50 (-)
wool+lycra
40
28 (-)
wool+lycra
60
NEEDLE
MATERIAL
KNIT
ROW
NEEDLE
MATERIAL
17 (-)
wool+lycra
123
840
38 (-)
wool+lycra
124
1240
1 (-)
wool+lycra
1240
22 (-)
wool+lycra
84
840
15 (-)
wool+lycra
125
85
860
36 (-)
wool+lycra
126
1260
1 (-)
wool+lycra
1260
24 (-)
51 (-)
wool+lycra
86
860
13 (-)
wool+lycra
wool+lycra
127
1280
3 (-)
wool+lycra
60
31 (-)
wool+lycra
87
880
80
52 (-)
wool+lycra
88
880
35 (-)
wool+lycra
128
1280
26 (-)
wool+lycra
12 (-)
wool+lycra
129
1300
4 (-)
80
30 (-)
wool+lycra
89
900
wool+lycra
33 (-)
wool+lycra
130
1300
27 (-)
wool+lycra
00
53 (-)
wool+lycra
90
900
00
30 (-)
wool+lycra
91
920
10 (-)
wool+lycra
131
1320
6 (-)
wool+lycra
31 (-)
wool+lycra
132
1320
29 (-)
20
50 (-)
wool+lycra
92
920
wool+lycra
8 (-)
wool+lycra
133
1340
8 (-)
wool+lycra
20
31 (-)
wool+lycra
93
40
51 (-)
wool+lycra
94
940
29 (-)
wool+lycra
134
1340
31 (-)
wool+lycra
940
6 (-)
wool+lycra
135
1360
10 (-)
40
31 (-)
wool+lycra
wool+lycra
95
960
28 (-)
wool+lycra
136
1360
32 (-)
wool+lycra
60
52 (-)
60
31 (-)
wool+lycra
96
960
5 (-)
wool+lycra
137
1380
11 (-)
wool+lycra
wool+lycra
97
980
26 (-)
wool+lycra
138
1380
34 (-)
80
wool+lycra
53 (-)
wool+lycra
98
980
3 (-)
wool+lycra
139
1400
13 (-)
wool+lycra
80
31 (-)
wool+lycra
99
1000
24 (-)
wool+lycra
140
1400
36 (-)
wool+lycra
00
52 (-)
wool+lycra
100
1000
1 (-)
wool+lycra
141
1420
14 (-)
wool+lycra
00
30 (-)
wool+lycra
101
1020
22 (-)
wool+lycra
142
1420
37 (-)
wool+lycra
1020
1 (-)
20
52 (-)
wool+lycra
102
wool+lycra
143
1440
16 (-)
wool+lycra
20
30 (-)
wool+lycra
103
1040
20 (-)
wool+lycra
144
1440
39 (-)
wool+lycra
40
51 (-)
wool+lycra
104
1040
3 (-)
wool+lycra
145
1460
17 (-)
wool+lycra
40
29 (-)
wool+lycra
105
1060
18 (-)
wool+lycra
146
1460
40 (-)
wool+lycra
60
50 (-)
wool+lycra
106
1060
5 (-)
wool+lycra
147
1480
19 (-)
wool+lycra
60
28 (-)
wool+lycra
107
1080
16 (-)
wool+lycra
148
1480
42 (-)
wool+lycra
1080
7 (-)
80
49 (-)
wool+lycra
108
wool+lycra
149
1500
20 (-)
wool+lycra
80
27 (-)
wool+lycra
109
1100
14 (-)
wool+lycra
150
1500
43 (-)
wool+lycra
00
48 (-)
wool+lycra
110
1100
9 (-)
wool+lycra
151
1520
0 (-)
wool+lycra
1120
12 (-)
wool+lycra
152
1520
44 (-)
wool+lycra
00
26 (-)
wool+lycra
111
20
47 (-)
wool+lycra
112
1120
11 (-)
wool+lycra
20
24 (-)
wool+lycra
113
1140
11 (-)
wool+lycra
1140
12 (-)
wool+lycra
40
46 (-)
wool+lycra
114
40
23 (-)
wool+lycra
115
1160
9 (-)
wool+lycra
60
44 (-)
wool+lycra
116
1160
14 (-)
wool+lycra
1180
7 (-)
wool+lycra
60
22 (-)
wool+lycra
117
80
43 (-)
wool+lycra
118
1180
16 (-)
wool+lycra
80
20 (-)
wool+lycra
119
1200
5 (-)
wool+lycra
00
41 (-)
wool+lycra
120
1200
18 (-)
wool+lycra
00
19 (-)
wool+lycra
121
1220
3 (-)
wool+lycra
wool+lycra
122
1220
20 (-)
wool+lycra
20
40 (-)
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
103
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Technical Analysis of Patches_Type4
KNIT KNIT
(-) (+) 100 90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90 100
needle bed of the machine reduce needles 1
11
4 6
00
7
8
11 22 33 44 55 66 77 88 99 10 10 11 11 12 12 13 13 14 14 15 15 16 16 17 17 18 18 20 20 19 19 21 21 22 22 23 23 24 24 26 26 25 25 27 27 28 28 29 29 30 30 31 31 32 32 33 33 34 34 35 35 36 36 38 38 37 37 39 39 40 40 41 41 42 42 43 43 44 44 45 45 46 46 47 47 48 48 49 49 50 50 52 52 51 51 53 53 54 54 56 56 55 55 58 58 57 57 59 59 60 60 62 62 61 61 64 64 63 63 65 65 66 66 68 68 67 67 69 69 70 70 72 72 71 71 74 74 73 73 76 76 75 75 78 78 77 77 80 80 79 79 82 82 81 81 83 83
13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 59 51 53 55 57 59 61 63 65 67 69 71 73 75 77 79 81 83 85 87 89 91 93
12
30 32 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 58 60 62 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 90 92 94 96
97 99 101 103 105 107 109 111 113 115 117 119 121 123
98 100 102 104 106 108 110 112 114 116 118 120 122 124
Fig90 | Technical analysis of crucial knits
125
126
127
128
129 131 133 135 137 139 141 143 145 147 149 151 153
130 132 134 136 138 140 142 144 146 148 150 152 154
155
156
157
158
159
160
161
162
163 165 167 169 171 173 175 177 179 181 183 185 187
104
10
14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28
95
reduce needles
(+)
2
3 5
9
add needles
0
(-)
164 166 168 170 172 174 176 178 180 182 184 186 188
189 190 AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL 191
193 195 197 199
192
194 196 198 200
add needles
NEEDLE NEEDLE
MATERIAL MATERIAL
KNIT KNIT
ROW ROW
NEEDLE NEEDLE
MATERIAL MATERIAL
00
00
11(-) 11(-)
wool+lycra wool+lycra
42 42
420 420
12 12(-) (-)
wool+lycra wool+lycra
11
20 20
13 13(-) (-)
wool+lycra wool+lycra
43 43
440 440
34 34(-) (-)
wool+lycra wool+lycra
22
20 20
13 13(+) (+)
wool+lycra wool+lycra
44 44
440 440
12 12(-) (-)
wool+lycra wool+lycra
33
40 40
15 15(-) (-)
wool+lycra wool+lycra
45 45
460 460
34 34(-) (-)
wool+lycra wool+lycra
44
40 40
10 10(+) (+)
wool+lycra wool+lycra
46 46
460 460
12 12(-) (-)
wool+lycra wool+lycra
55
60 60
17 17(-) (-)
wool+lycra wool+lycra
47 47
480 480
34 34(-) (-)
wool+lycra wool+lycra
66
60 60
77(+) (+)
wool+lycra wool+lycra
48 48
77
KNIT 80 80
88
80 80 0 100 100 1 100 100 2 120 120 3
99 20 rows
ROW ROW
10 10 1111 12 12 13 13 14 14 15 15 16 16 17 17
120 120 4 140 140 5
140 140 6 160 160 7
ROW MATERIAL 19 19(-) (-) NEEDLE wool+lycra wool+lycra
55(+) (+) 0 21 21(-) (-) 20 33(+) (+) 20 23 23 (-) 40 (-)
11(+) (+) 40 24 24 (-) 60 (-) 11(-) (-) 60 26 26(-) (-) 80
wool+lycra wool+lycra 0 lycra wool+lycra wool+lycra 36 (-) lycra wool+lycra wool+lycra 36 (+) lycra wool+lycra wool+lycra 50 (-) lycra wool+lycra wool+lycra 50 (+) lycra wool+lycra 61 wool+lycra (-) lycra wool+lycra 61wool+lycra (+) lycra wool+lycra wool+lycra 69 (-) lycra
49 49 50 50 51 51 52 52 53 53 54 54 55 55 56 56 57 57
160 160 8 180 180 9
22(-) (-) 80 27 27(-) (-) 100
wool+lycra 69wool+lycra (+) lycra wool+lycra wool+lycra 77 (-) lycra
58 58
180 180 10 200 200 11
44(-) (-) 100 28 28 (-) 120 (-)
wool+lycra wool+lycralycra 77(+) wool+lycra 83wool+lycra (-) lycra
60 60
200 200 12 220 220 13
55(-) (-) 120 29 29 (-) 140 (-)
220 220 14 240 240 15
59 59
480 480 12 12(-) (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra KNIT ROW NEEDLE MATERIAL 500 500 33 33(-) (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra wool+lycra wool+lycra 72 (-) lycra wool+lycra wool+lycra 42 416 72 (+) lycra 520 520 1111(-) (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 43 436 72 (-) lycra 540 43632 32(-) (-) 72 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 44 540 lycra 540 45610 10(-) (-) 71 (-)wool+lycra wool+lycra 45 540 lycra 560 560 31 31 (-) (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 46 456 71 (+) lycra
41
500 500 520 520
416
12 12(-) (-)
32 32(-) (-)
560 476 99(-) (-) 71 (-)wool+lycra wool+lycra 47 560 lycra 580 47631 31(-) (-) 71 (+)wool+lycra wool+lycra 48 580 lycra 580 580 8 8 (-) (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 49 496 70 (-) lycra
KN
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
61 61
600 49630 30(-) (-) 70 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 50 600 lycra 600 600 7 7 (-) (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra 51 516 69 (-) lycra 620 516 91 91(-) (-) 69 (+)wool+lycra wool+lycra 52 620 lycra
wool+lycra 83wool+lycra (+) lycra wool+lycra 83wool+lycra (-) lycra
62 62
620 536 29 29(-) (-) 68 (-)wool+lycra wool+lycra 53 620 lycra
94
63 63
640 536 28 28(-) (-) 68 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 54 640 lycra
95
77(-) (-) 140 30 30 (-) 160 (-)
wool+lycra 83wool+lycra (+) lycra wool+lycra wool+lycra 82 (-) lycra
64 64
640 556 55(-) (-) 68 (-)wool+lycra wool+lycra 55 640 lycra
96
65 65
660 556 27 27(-) (-) 68 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 56 660 lycra
97
240 240 16 260 260 17
88(-) (-) 160 31 31(-) (-) 180
wool+lycra 82wool+lycra (+) lycra wool+lycra 81wool+lycra (-) lycra
66 66
660 576 44(-) (-) 67 (-)wool+lycra wool+lycra 57 660 lycra
98
67 67
680 576 25 25(-) (-) 67 (+)wool+lycra wool+lycra 58 680 lycra
99
99(-) (-) 180 32 32(-) (-) 200
wool+lycra 81wool+lycra (+) lycra wool+lycra 81wool+lycra (-) lycra
68 68
680 583 22(-) (-) 67 (-)wool+lycra wool+lycra 59 680 lycra
100
27 27
260 260 18 280 280 19
69 69
700 58324 24(-) (-) 67 (+)wool+lycra wool+lycra 60 700 lycra
101
28 28
280 280 20
99(-) (-) 200
wool+lycra 81wool+lycra (+) lycra
70 70
700 603 61 700
00 66 (-)wool+lycra wool+lycra wool+lycra
102
29 29
300 300 21
32 32(-) (-) 220
wool+lycra wool+lycra 80 (-) lycra
71 71
720 603 22 22(-) (-) 66 (+)wool+lycra wool+lycra 62 720 wool+lycra
103
30 30
300 300 22
10 10(-) (-) 220
wool+lycra wool+lycra 80 (+) lycra
72 72
720 623 22(+) (+) 65 (-)wool+lycra wool+lycra 63 720 wool+lycra
104
31 31
320 320 23
33 33(-) (-) 240
wool+lycra 79wool+lycra (-) lycra
73 73
740 623 21 21(-) (-) 65 (+)wool+lycra wool+lycra 64740 wool+lycra
105
32 32
320 320 24
1111(-) (-) 240
wool+lycra 79wool+lycra (+) lycra
74 74
740 643 44(+) (+) 64 (-)wool+lycra wool+lycra 65 740 wool+lycra
106
33 33
340 340 25
33 33(-) (-) 260
wool+lycra 79wool+lycra (-) lycra
75 75
760 643 19 19(-) (-) 64 (+) wool+lycra wool+lycra 66 760 wool+lycra
107
34 34
340 340 26
1111(-) (-) 260
wool+lycra 79wool+lycra (+) lycra
76 76
760 659 66(+) (+) 63 (-)wool+lycra wool+lycra 67 760 wool+lycra
108
35 35
360 360 27
34 34(-) (-) 280
wool+lycra wool+lycra 78 (-) lycra
77 77
780 659 17 17(-) (-) 63 (+)wool+lycra wool+lycra 68780 wool+lycra
109
36 36
360 360 28
12 12(-) (-) 280
wool+lycra 78wool+lycra (+) lycra
78 78
780 679 88(+) (+) 63 (-)wool+lycra wool+lycra 69 780 wool+lycra
110
37 37
380 380 29
34 34(-) (-) 300
wool+lycra 77wool+lycra (-) wool+lycra
79 79
111
38 38
380 380 30
12 12(-) (-) 300
wool+lycra 77wool+lycra (+) wool+lycra
80 80
800 679 15 15(-) (-) 63 (+)wool+lycra wool+lycra 70800 wool+lycra 800 699 1111(+) (+) 62 (-)wool+lycra wool+lycra 71 800 wool+lycra 12 12 (-) (-) 820 820 wool+lycra wool+lycra 72 699 62 (+) wool+lycra
18 18 19 19 20 20 21 21 22 22 23 23 24 24 25 25 26 26
92
93
112
39 39
400 400 31
34 34(-) (-) 320
wool+lycra 76wool+lycra (-) wool+lycra
81 81
40 40
400 400 32
12 12(-) (-) 320
wool+lycra 76wool+lycra (+) wool+lycra
82 82
820 719 19 19(+) (+) 61 (-)wool+lycra wool+lycra 73820 wool+lycra
114
41 41
33 420 420
340 34 34(-) (-)
75wool+lycra (-) wool+lycra wool+lycra
83 83
(-) 61 (+)wool+lycra 74840 wool+lycra 840 719 1111(-) wool+lycra
115
34
340
75 (+)
wool+lycra
75
739
61 (-)
wool+lycra
116
35
356
74 (-)
wool+lycra
76
739
61 (+)
wool+lycra
117
36
356
74 (+)
wool+lycra
77
759
60 (-)
wool+lycra
118
37
376
74 (-)
lycra
78
759
60 (+)
wool+lycra
119
38
376
74 (+)
lycra
79
779
59 (-)
wool+lycra
120
39
396
73 (-)
lycra
80
779
59 (+)
wool+lycra
121
40
396
73 (+)
lycra
113
Fig91 | Knitted Patces
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
105
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Strategy of the Fabrication of the Knitting Piece
Fig92 | Final Knitted Piece
106
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
KNITTING PROCESS
set up needles on the knitting machine
knit holes for inLace
knit the expected pattern
STITCHING PROCESS
connect patches with pins
stitch patches with stitching machine
remove the pins
Fig93 | Knitting Process
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
107
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Active Bending GFRP Rods
_Efficiency of the frame The structure of the frame was one of the most challenging parts of the fabrication process because of the complex demands of the product. In order to achieve the goal of "transformability" to the final piece, it was important to think about a smart frame that could be synchronically as strong as flexible.
thickness: 7mm length: 580mm soft part
Thus, it is suggested a combination of different thicknesses of rods in order to achieve the expected active bending of each component. Stronger and thicker rods are used on the bottom, while softer and thinner as going to the top. Further down will be analyzed all connection points of the structure. From nodes in between the rods to the base.
thickness: 8.5mm length: 500mm
flexible part
thickness: 11mm length: 860mm
strong part
Fig94 | Combination of rods
108
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
tension from stretching the elastic rope
thickness: 7mm
soft part
length: 580mm
tensile force from fabric
flexible part
tensile force from fabric thickness: 8.5mm length: 500mm
strong part
thickness: 11mm length: 860mm
Fig95 | Active bending component
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
109
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Nodes_Base
Rod
part a
Base
part b
part c
110
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
h1
a = 70 mm h1= 5,5 mm
a
part a| holding rods
b r h2
b = 20 mm r = 5,5 mm h2= 10 mm
R R = 7 mm
part b| flexible rotation
h’
r’ h’= 500 mm r’ = 7 mm
part c| weight R’
R’ = 55 mm Weight = 1,5 kgr
Fig96 | Technical Representation of Base parts
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
111
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Nodes_Middle Node
Rod
Node
Elastic Rope
112
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
a
a = 15 mm
R
R = 55 mm
Fig97 | Technical Representation of Middle Node
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
113
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Nodes_Frame Node T4
T3
T2
T1
114
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
type 4 rod 7mm
R3
T4
rod 7mm
L = 80 mm R3 = 4,50 mm L
R2 type 3 rod 8.5mm T3
R3
L
rod 7mm
L = 80mm R2 = 5,25mm R3 = 4,50mm
type 2 rod 8,5mm
rod 8,5mm
R2
T2
L = 80mm R2 = 5,25mm L
R1
type 3 rod 11mm
T1
L
R2
rod 8.5mm
L = 80mm R1 = 6,50mm R2 = 5,25mm
Fig98 | Technical Representation of Frame Nodes
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
115
_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Nodes_Upper Node
Rod
Node
Elastic Rope
116
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
L L = 24 mm
R1
R1 = 4 mm
Fig99 | Technical Representation of Upper Node
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_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Strategy of Assembly on Site
Step01; insert the elastic rope into rods
Fig100 | "Leaf" Component
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Step02; insert the rods from two sides of the fabric
Step03; stretch the fabric and connect the two lines of rods on top
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
Fig101 | tools; a. glass fibre rods, b.knitted fabric, c.elastic rope, d.elastic rope(rods), e.stopper
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_02.C | Product Design; the Leaf Strategy of Assembly on Site_Aggregation
knitted fabric
insert the rods
insert the elastic rope
_from single Leaf to multiple The Leaf component is taking its final form by pulling the inLace elastic rope. The whole structure is finished when the components were aggregated to the expected position. In this case, their organization is based on an imaginable pentagon. connect the nodes and stretch the rope 120
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semi-relaxed state
relaxed state stressed state
2
3
1
4
5
Fig102 | Aggregate the Final Design proposal
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_02.C | Product Design; the Diamond
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_02.C | Product Design; the Diamond Transforbability & Assembly
_Diamond Design Comparing to the other two products (the Pringle and the Leaf), the Diamond Product is getting more complex. It is formed both by rigid and flexible parts and it has as well two inLaces rather than one. Moreover, because of its linear outline, this product could be concidered as a Unit that could be aggregated in an faster and efforteless way. Furtheremore, what is really important for this product is that its aggregations produce less gaps than the ones of the other two Split.Knit products.
Fig103 | Tranformability feature on Diamond
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Transformation
Fig104 | Stages of Diamond's transformation
Assembly
GFRP rod
nodes
elastic rope
state 1
state 2
state 3
Fig105 | Assembly & function
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_02.C | Product Design; the Diamond Methodology of Aggregations
_Strategy All types of aggregations focus not only to the connection process but also to the feature of transformability. This means that all aggregations have the foldable feature in addition to inlay, which gives to the transformation objective even more potentials.
point to point
The first type of connecting two Diamond components, is with the use of a flexible but strong node in-between them in order to rotate over 360O. The second, could be a connection in the whole length of a fiberglass rode. However, the aggregation of more Split.Knit Diamonds may demands a combination of the types of connections. So through this process, can be produced a variety of installations which may adapt to multiple scenarios and demands.
Fig106 | Typologies of aggregations
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edge to edge
edge to edge on 3+ components
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_02.C | Product Design; the Diamond Design Typologies
AGGREGATION LOGIC
TYPE OF CONNECTION
edge to edge
edge to edge
point to point edge to edge
edge to edge
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RELAXED CONDITION
TYPOLOGY
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_02.C | Product Design; the Diamond Pattern Design
_Pattern Design based on the reaction diffusion system The expected pattern we aim to knit for the Diamond product is based on a mathematical model called reaction diffusion1. With a creation of an advanced code in C++, we finally concluded to 3 different patterns for this product. On the next pages someone could see as well how a pattern is finally formed on the actual Diamond geometry.
Fig107 | Solid geometry
1
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reaction–diffusion_system
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Fig108 | Type 1. Liner pattern
Fig109 | Type 2. pattern based on the bend forces
Fig110 | Type 2. pattern based on the height
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_02.C | Product Design; the Diamond Pattern Design
Fig111 | Solid geometry
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Fig112 | Reaction Diffusion Analysis
Fig113 | Remapping in the meshface grid
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_02.C | Product Design; the Diamond Nodes
Fig114 | Upper Node
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Fig115 | Middle Nodes
Fig116 | Base
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03
_SPLIT.KNIT STARTUP
_03 | Philoshophy
STARTUP
/ internal organisation
STANDARD PRODUCTS
Split.Knit is a Rental Space Organizers Startup based in London and its vision is to offer to clients all over the world, custom-fit products for any kind of space they want to organize and transform (from working spaces, to large scale events). In detail, this company offers to future customers a variety of products. Someone has the chance to choose his preferable design from a list of Standard and Customized Products. Split.Knit Standard products are the Pringle, the Leaf and the Diamond which were examined in Chapter_02. At the same time, those products could be partially customized in order to adapt to specific demands. On the other hand, someone could create as well a product from scratch by using an interactive configuration online platform at Startup's website. (www.splitknit. wordpress.com)
/ Pringle, Leaf, Diamond
CUSTOMIZED PRODUCTS
/ interactive configuration platform
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_03.A | Split.knit internal organisation Departments
_Company's Strategy
DESIGN
Split.Knit Company is organized into 3 separate but totally linked departments: a. The Design Department, which is responsible to design not only the geometry of each product but also its pattern for the knitting piece. b. The Fabrication Department which is totally linked with the Design Team, since all designs are based on the feedback of both Digital Fabrication Studies and Physical Testing. c.And the Delivery Department which is finally organizing all parts of our products into delivery KITS.
STANDARD PRODUCTS
CUSTOMIZED PRODUCTS
/ Pringle / Leaf / Diamond
PRODUCT DESIGN / Define scale / Select fiberglass rods / Design nodes
PATTERN DESIGN / Select function of fabric / Select yarns / Select colors / Select pattern - Curvature Analysis - Reaction Diffusion
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(Fabrication) (Delivery)
FABRICATION
DIGITAL FABRICATION
PHYSICAL TESTING
/ Material behavior simulations - Yarns - Active bending rods - InLace / Preparing CAD files - CNC knitting machine - SLS printing
/ 1:1 Prototypes
DELIVERY
STANDARD PRODUCTS
CUSTOMIZED PRODUCTS
S / M SIZE
M / L SIZE
(Design) KIT BAG
KIT PACKAGE
/ Asseblied by 2-3 people
/ Asseblied by 4 or more
DELIVERY
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_03.B | Customisation Split.Knit Standard Products
_Interactive Configuration Platform As mentioned before, Split.Knit Company offers the possibility of customisation. By using this online platform of Interactive configuration, a customer could easily select his preferences and immediately see on the screen the result which is based on his choices. For all Standard Split.Knit products (which are the Pringle, the Leaf and the Diamond), we offer a partial customisation. As shown on the screnshot on this page, someone could choose his preferable geometry, the quantity of products for the final structure, the color of the pattern, the type of yarns' etc. At the end, on the middle white window it appears the estimated structure and final cost.
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_03.B | Customisation Split.Knit Customized Products
_Interactive Configuration Platform Just in case a customer wish to create a product from scratch, then he can use as well the same platform but in a different way. We offer the possibility to the user to upload a file with all site constrains, in order to compute properly the dimensions and the shape of the final proposal. At the same time, he should define as well some basic parameters as dimensions, yarns etc and see an estimation of the final model on the screen.However, because the estimation in this case may not adapt to customer's requirements, the design team could envolve and resolve any issues of the model.
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_03.C | Delivery Split.Knit Kits
KIT BAG small size
_Split.Knit Kits The very last facility that our company may offer, is the Delivery and Assemby facility. When the final model is finalized both by the Design and Fabrication Department, the Delivery and Assembly Department chooses the way that each product must be assemblied and delivered to the customer. For all Stanard Split.Knit Products and all small scale products, we suggest the KIT BAG. This bag is portable and lightweight and includes all necessary materials and instructions for an easy delivery and assembly by the user on site. For bigger scale products, we offer the option of KIT PACKAGE. This is a collection of packages that includes all necessary materials and instructions for an easy delivery and assembly by the user on site. In comparison to Kit Bag, this method requires more labor and the use of a vehicle for the delivery.
GFRP rods
assembly instruction stops
pre-fabricated textile connections elastic ropes
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KIT PACKAGE king size
elastic ropes
stops
connections
connections
GFRP rods
pre-fabricated textile
accessories box
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04
_DESIGN PROPOSALS
_04 | Chapter Introduction
In this Chapter Split.Knit StartUp is proposing two totally different Architectural Solutions in which its products seems applicable.
Co-Working Office
/ Standard Split.Knit Products
Olympic Games
The first Architectural Scenario focuses on CoWorking Offices since the modern era for offices is about open plan working areas with gentle divisions. As such, products like Split.Knit Products seem more than ideal for flexible environments and for soft divisions in between working spaces. However, for this scenario, are suggested a range of Split.Knit Standard Products because of their scale and their high ability on transformability. The second Architectural Scenario that Split.Knit StartUp proposes, is about Olympic Games in Tokyo that postponed to 2021. Even for large scale scenarios like this, Split.Knit Products are adaptable because of their ability to be used in multiple ways. Custom made knitted structures are used to frame different areas and events. These type of structures could be transferred to different locations effortlessly since they are lightweight, self-standing and could be assemblied/reassemblied easily. This gives an extra flexibility to events like this that aims to continually update its daily events and re-organise them at different locations.
/ Standard and Custom Split.Knit Products
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_04.A | Co-Working Office Architectural Scenario
_Concept
PARTITION WALL
This Scenario focuses on Co-Working offices and the use of Split.Knit Standard products (Pringle and Leaf) for the successful organisation of these spaces. Therefore, the design proposals are categorized into two main typologies - "Partition Wall" and "Dome" or "Column". The former is to separate certain uses offering privacy and the latter is to organize and highlight a group of spaces. In each design typology, there is one specific transformable knitted tensile component, "Pringle" and "Leaf". The factor of transformability, along with the different number of iterations of these hybrid components can generate different aggregations The products can be adapted into higher or lower spaces, can occupy a larger or smaller area, and can be extended in length depending on the users' needs.
"DOME" & "COLLUMN"
Their lightweight material nature makes them practical and easy to assembly and reassembly on site. The "InLace" technique which was analyzed in former chapters, offers transformable features to these structures. Their flexibility makes them moveable and adaptable in any open-plan office space, and their textile color combination diversity can meet any aesthetic preference.
Fig01 | Design Proposals' Typologies
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_04.A | Co-Working Office
G
B
A
A C
D
F E
Fig02 | Different number of essential distinct uses inside an office space
Fig03 | Office space in Open-plan
D
D
A2
A1
A C
A2
A1
C
B B
Fig04 | classification of uses in groups A | Co-working spaces B | Meeting room C | Private office (director's) D | Recreation Area
In the diagrams Fig02, Fig03 above, a random number of different functions are organized on an open plan office space. In Fig04 the "Column" and "Dome" organizers, are grouped according to the needs of the office work policy creating clusters
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Fig05 | Lightweight Partition walls add privacy between uses A 1 | Co-working space | Type 1 A 2 | Co-working space | Type 2
of different uses which, in Fig05, are separated by partition walls, which can offer privacy. The dynamic open-form of these products, along with their transformable feature, preserve and
enhance the functionality and value of an open plan office, encouraging the division of a business into distinct working groups.
Fig06 | Co-working Space Groups (left), Meeting room (middle below), Private office (left below), Recreation Area (upper left)
Fig07 | Example of an office space configuration with "Dome", "Collumn" and "Partition wall" "Split.Knit ©" products
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_04.A | "Pringle" Component ; Partition Wall Space Divider
Fig08 | Front View | Solid Geometry
Fig09 | Front View | Curvature Analysis
Fig10 | Front View | Remapping in the Meshface Grid
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Fig11 | Top View | dividing Meeting area [left], Co-working space [right]
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_04.A | "Leaf" Component_"Column" & "Dome" Co-working Space
Fig12 | 5-leaf "Column" Co-working Space
Fig13 | 5-leaf "Column" Top View
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_04.A | "Leaf" Component_"Column" & "Dome" Co-working Space
Fig14 | 5-leaf "Dome" Co-working Space
Fig15 | 5-leaf "Dome" Top View
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_04.A | "Leaf" Component_"Column" & "Dome" Private Office Space
Fig16 | 4-leaf "Dome" Private Office Space
Fig17 | 4-leaf "Dome" Top View
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_04.A | "Leaf" Component_"Column" & "Dome" Meeting Room
Fig18 | 5-leaf "Dome" Meeting Room
Fig19 | 5-leaf "Dome" Top View
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_04.A | "Leaf" Component_"Column" & "Dome" Recreation Space
Fig20 | 6-leaf "Dome" Recreation Space
Fig21 | 6-leaf "Dome" Top View
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_04.B | Olympic Games Tokyo 2021 Architectural Scenario
_Concept
This Architectural Scenario aims to adapt to the requirements of a large scale event, Olympic games 2021 in Tokyo. So based on this scenario and Japanese culture, we used a range of Split.Knit Standard and Custom made products in order to organise events and necessary activities not only inside the arena but also in multiple spots around the city. Thus, areas like info points, souvenir markets etc are covered by large spans of knitted fabric and so, those areas are synchronically transformed into open and breathable areas. All structures are driven by the feature of "transformability" in order to give to the final proposal a multifunctional and dynamic character. Moreover, the colors of the knitted patterns are based on the typical Japanese colors like red and indigo as a indirect message of respect to the city of Japan.
STANDARD PRODUCTS
/ Pringle, Leaf, Diamond
CUSTOMIZED PRODUCTS
/ interactive configuration platform
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_04.B | Olympic Games Tokyo 2021 Design Typologies
CAVE _Categories
(medium scale)
In order to adapt to all scale scenarios and needs, Split.Knit Company Designed three families of products according to the scale of each area. The Line family of structures, is destined for large scale spaces and can be used in order to organise queues of people or like screen for projecting advertisments or the daily program of all sport arenas. This category of installations is basically formed by custom made products. The collection of Cave structures could possibly host medium scale gathering spaces like relaxing areas, gift shops, markets etc. In general, the form of this banch of structures is based on Split.Knit Diamond product.
LINE (large scale)
Lastly, the third group of models is dealing with small scale scenarios like small scale divisions or tiny spaces of shadow. These models are based on Split. Knit standard products; the Pringle, the Leaf and the Diamond.
UMBRELLA (small scale)
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_04.B | Olympic Games Tokyo 2021 Design Typologies
Cave
Umbrella
gift shop
dinning
resting
bench
lighting
symbol
queue
screen
bike park
Line Fig22 | Possible architectural scenarios linked to certain Design Typology
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Central Info Point
Fig23 | Structures on the Olympic Game's Map
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_04.B | Olympic Games Tokyo 2021 Large Scale Scenarios - Cave Typology
_Technique of Geometric Driven Aggregations In order to produce large scale aggregations and adapt to larger Architectural Scenarios Split.Knit Design Department suggested the Aggregate Technique. This technique requires a set of primitive 2D shapes with linear edges that are horizontally aggregated in a way to have at least one common edge. In most of the results, the interior edges of each shape into the aggregation are turned to the architectural frame which will support the upcoming product; fibreglass rods. InLaces are usually located close to rods. When the whole structure lifted up from the floor, then appears a complex istallation that could have a variety of versios only by changing the position of InLace into the knitted fabric. This means that from a simple base may be produced a range of dynamic and unique options. That's the importance of InLace into this technique.
D-1
Fig24 | Geometric driven aggregations
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D-2
D-3
D-4
D-5
D-6
D-7
D-8
rod inLace
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_04.B | Olympic Games Tokyo 2021 Central Info Point
B-1 _Fabric Decomposition From the "Geometric Driven Aggregations'" list on page 176-177, it was selected the D-6 model in order to host the Central Info Point of the Olympic Games 2021. However, due to the large spans of the fabric, it was needed to decompose it in patches. This happened because the CNC knitting machine, which was selected for the knitting part of this structure, could knit up to 3,8m length fabrics. Thus, Split.Knit Design and Fabrication Departments, created a unique code in order to decompose properly the fabric.
A-1
C-1
A-2
C-2
B-2 Fig25 | D-6 Proposal in patces
Fig26 | Central Info Point representation
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A1
A2
A3
A3 A2 A1
B1
B2
B3
B4
A-1
B5 B5 B4 B3
B-1
B2 B1
C1
C2
C3
C4
C5 C1 C2 C3 C4
C-1
C5
A1 A3
A2 A2
A3 A1 A3 A2 A1
B1 B1
B2 B2
B3 B3
B4 B4
A-2
B5 B5
B5 B4 B3
B-2
B2 B1 C1 C1
C2 C2
C3
C4
C5
C1 C2 C3
C-2
C4 C5
Fig27 | Patches stitched for larger pieces of fabric
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_04.B | Olympic Games Tokyo 2021 Central Info Point
_CNC Knit Pattern Structural Analysis Each pattern design is based not only to an advance aesthetic result but also to the mechanics of the fabric itself in the whole structure. Thus, each stitch of the fabric is enriched with certain features and parameters. The physical forces of each area of the fabric were analyzed in a way to produce a knit structure map with multiple areas of strong (reinforcement area) or loose knits (breathable area) in order to adapt to the mechanical and physical demands of the structure.
rods
auxiliary line
inlay
stitch line
pattern
holes
Fig28 | Expected Structural CNC Knitting Pattern navigation map in detail
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( 1 pixel = 1 stitch )
reinforcement knit stitch line breathable knit
tubular
piquet lacoste
Fig29 | Typologies of CNC knitted stitches
interlock
Fig30 | Pixel map of a single patch
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_04.B | Olympic Games Tokyo 2021 Central Info Point
B-1 A-1
C-1
C-2 A-2
B-2
step 01; ROD-1
step 02; ROD-2
step 03; ROD-3
Fig31 | Process of assebly on site
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step 04; WEIGHTS
step 05; ELASTIC ROPE
step 06
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_04.B | Olympic Games Tokyo 2021 Central Info Point
Fig32 | Cental Info Point Joints
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_04.B | Olympic Games Tokyo 2021 Large Scale Scenarios ; Diversity on Aggregations
_Break Similarity In order to avoid similarity on large scales scanarios by following the Aggregate Technique (mentioned on p. 176) this methodology suggests an geometrical driven aggregation with the use of multiple 2D primitive shapes. In this way the final complex proposal breaks similarity and the result is more interesting. VISITOR SERVICE CENTRE
OLYMPIC VILLAGE
MARKET
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_04.B | Olympic Games Tokyo 2021
EN
TR A
NC
E
Market of Olympic Games Village
SHADED EXTERIOR MARKET
ENTRANCE CONNECTION PATHWAY SHADED EXTERIOR MARKET
ENTRANCE
SHADED INTERIOR MARKET SHADED
EN
TR
AN
CE
EXTERIOR MARKET
rods rods_hide fabric outline inlace SHADED INTERIOR MARKET
Fig33 | Floor Plans
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Fig34 | Top View
Fig35 | Perspective View
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W 194
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_04.B | Olympic Games Tokyo 2021 Cultural Center
_Concept In genreal, Olympic's Cultural Center is one of the largest installations that Split.Knit StartUp suggests. The key expectetion for this proposal is to mimic the philosophy of a one/two story building with the use of complex knitted structures. Thus, this study aims to experiment at the crosspoint of a metallic scaffolding and a collection of lightweight knitted structures. In parallel to this, it is crucial to import the feature of transformability into a building scale project. Thus, the whole knitted installation is composed by smaller knitted structures for better control and efficacy. In this way, each structure could close or open according to topical demands. As a result of this process, the whole proposal could be totally open or closed or semi open ad libitum.
a
b
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c
Indoor reception desk
a
Outdoor Cinema
Japanese culture exhibition
b
Outdoor recreation desk
Olympic History exhibition
c
Garden
Fig36 | Masterplan 196
b
Fig37 | Transformability feature ; closed (top) and open (bottom) structure
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_04.B | Olympic Games Tokyo 2021 Cultural Center
04
05 07
08
06
03
09
02
01
10
01
Entrance
03
exhibition area 2
05
Teahouse
02
exhibition area 1
04
Souvenir Shop
06
Resting Area
Fig38 | 1st Floor Plan 198
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04 05
07
08
03
12
11
07
Olympic theme cafe
09
exhibition area 3
11
exhibition area 4
08
Olympic souvenir shop
10
reception
12
exhibition area 5
Fig39 | Ground Level
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_Figures Appendix
00 __Introduction Fig01 | https://www.tumblr.com/search/sean%20ahlquist Fig02 | https://www.archdaily.com/805969/hybrid-tower-cita-the-royal-danish-academy-of-fine-arts Fig03 | https://www.designboom.com/architecture/danish-pavilion-possible-spaces-venice-biennale-05-30-2018/
Fig09 | https://spanish.alibaba.com/g/stoll-cms-knitting-machines.html Fig13 | https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/knitted-fabric-9872774930.html Fig14 | https://www.thomasnet.com/products/warp-knit-fabrics-27311554-1.html
Fig06 | https://www.sneakerfreaker.com/articles/material-matters-nike-flyknit/
Fig16 | Barandvskaya Yuliya, “Knitflatable Architecture: Pneumatically activated preprogrammed knitted textile spaces”,ITECH M.Sc. Thesis, University of Stuttgard, 2014-15
Fig07 | https://fleetfeetcleveland.wordpress.com/tag/nike-flyknit-technology/
Fig17 | https://www.farfetch.com/uk/
Fig08,09 | https://www.sivasdescalzo.com/en/blog/flyknit-history-en
Fig18 -19| https://lifeiscozy.com/1x1-rib Fig22 | https://samuelhalldesign.wordpress.com/
Fig10 | https://www.freshnessmag.com/2015/12/04/nike-flyknit-technology-patents/
Fig23-24 | L. Albaugh, S. Hudson, L. Yao, “Digital Fabrication of Soft Actuated Objects"
Fig11-15 | https://www.sneakerfreaker.com/articles/material-matters-nike-flyknit/
02 _Initial Research
Fig16 | https://benjaminwells.eu/materialising-innovation Fig17 | https://arcspace.com/article/isoropia-materialising-innovation/ Fig18 -20 | https://yuliyasinke.com/Isoropia Fig21 | https://arcspace.com/article/isoropia-materialising-innovation/
Fig25,32,46 | Barandvskaya Yuliya, “Knitflatable Architecture: Pneumatically activated preprogrammed knitted textile spaces”,ITECH M.Sc. Thesis, University of Stuttgard, 2014-15 Fig47 | https://spanish.alibaba.com/g/stoll-cms-knitting-machines.html
03 _ Split.Knit Company 04 _Design Proposals
01 _Knit Forming Technology Fig01| https://krelwear.com/products/hand-knitting-experience?pr_prod_strat=collection_fallback&pr_rec_ pid=4328207482998&pr_ref_pid=4314529529974&pr_seq=uniform Fig02 | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyRARQCbB0E Fig03 | http://www.audiomania.lt/video/2619458/meet-kniterate-a-cnc-knitting-machine.html Fig04-05 | Barandvskaya Yuliya, “Knitflatable Architecture: Pneumatically activated preprogrammed knitted textile spaces”,ITECH M.Sc. Thesis, University of Stuttgard, 2014-15 Fig06 | https://taubmancollege.umich.edu/labs-workshops/ digital-fabrication-lab/cnc-knitting-machine
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Some of the Figures that we borrowed from the web or research papers have been edited by the authors. The rest that they are not referred on the Appendix are "Split.Knit" team's production.
AD RC2 | Architectural Product(ion) | UCL
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B PRO BARTLETT PROSPECTUS
MARCH ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN 2019-2020 THE BARTLETT SCHOOL OF ARCHITECTURE | UCL
AD RESEARCH CLUSTER 2
ARCHITECTURAL PRODUCT(ION) TUTORS | STEFAN BASSING & FEDERICO BORELO