Magasin Västerbotten #6 ENGLISH edition summer 2018

VOLUME 3 | NUMBER 6 | SUMMER 2018 | About Västerbotten and everything from the pulse of the city to mountain summits and deep sea bays.

ENGLISH EDITION

“MY LIFE IS WHERE THE REINDEERS ARE” SUMMER SUMMITS

– quest to reach the summits

FISHING FOR REAL SOME OF THE BEST CHEESES IN SWEDEN

Mountain Hiking – The magnificent mountain world of Hemavan Tärnaby

UMEÅ TEEMS WITH CULINARY HOT SPOTS UNIQUE ACCOMODATIONS MAGASIN VÄSTERBOTTEN |

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J A F P

O K R U

H O A R

N MH/ PLE

13 APR - 16 SEPT, 2018

I R O F E

CTE OK THE AR 13 MARCH - 9 SEPT, 2018

TUE-THU + SAT-SUN 10-17. FRI 10-21 WWW.BILDMUSEET.UMU.SE

TUE-THU + SAT-SUN 10-17. FRI 10-21 WWW.BILDMUSEET.UMU.SE

ECOVISIONARIES

JOCHEN LEMPERT

15 JUNE – 21 OCT, 2018 TUE-THU + SAT-SUN 10-17. FRI 10-21 WWW.BILDMUSEET.UMU.SE

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15 JUNE – 21 OCT, 2018 TUE-THU + SAT-SUN 10-17. FRI 10-21 WWW.BILDMUSEET.UMU.SE

Contents 32 Unique Accomodations Grand hotels and small hotels with a cosy atmosphere, wilderness camps, the bird’s nest, Sami huts, lighthouses and pilot’s cottages, these are just some examples to be discovered and enjoyed!

30 CULINARY

HOTSPOTS IN UMEÅ

LIFE WITH REINDEERS

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– Discover Sami culture

30 CHEESE!

– Some of the best cheeses in Sweden can be found in Västerbotten

4 EDITORS LETTER 5 INTRO: We were blessed with the best! Eating gnats, Stieg

Larsson’s hometown, Björnlandet, City shopping compact style, Challenging hikes, Outdoor swimming deluxe, Hike in the footsteps of royalty, Yoga retreat, Get a greeter, The clatter of hooves, Summer Summits, Christ in the mountain, Animals up close, Top class cuisine

12 SOME OF THE BEST CHEESES IN SWEDEN 14 “MY LIFE IS WHERE THE REINDEERS ARE”

– Discover Sami culture with reindeer herder Margret

16 A SWEDISH ‘FIKA’ PLEASE!

18 FISHING FOR REAL 22 UMEÅ TEEMS WITH CULINARY HOT SPOTS 24 MOUNTAIN HIKING – The magnificent mountain world of Hemavan Tärnaby

30 DISCOVERY 32 UNIQUE ACCOMODATIONS 34 WINTERLAND

Photography: Andreas Nilsson, Ina-Theres Sparrok, Ted Logardt

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EDITORS LETTER

Have a "Västerbotten Experience" in Lapland.

An enticing, year round destination located in the arctic region of northern Europe, in the Swedish part of Lapland. We offer our guests a chance to experience a unique landscape boasting with experiences that change in accordance with the seasons of nature.

BRIGHT NIGHTS AND DARK SKIES In summer, the sun hardly sets in Västerbotten. Thanks to our bright nights during the summer months of June and July, more solar energy is produced here than most parts of the earth during that period. The solar energy creates an incredible diversity in the ecosystem. Combined with our Right to Public Access, this makes the landscape of Västerbotten a luscious foraging area where our visitors are welcome to enjoy the pleasures provided by nature.

The dark skies of our long autumn season and winter nights makes Västerbotten in Lapland one of the best places on earth to experience the northern lights, aurora borealis. The dancing lights can be seen both in the darkness of our vast nature areas and when visiting any of our towns where nature is always just around the corner.

Västerbotten – the sky is not a limit, it’s an opportunity!

We recommend a summer day in our We recommend a summer day in our luxurious life in nature. luxurious life in nature.

Photographer: Carl-Johan Utsi

Welcome to the luxurious nature existence, where the mountain valley’s natural life opens for both nature focused adventures and an inner peace.

Here everyday life remains simple. The meeting with villagers and other visitors is part of the small-scale and genuine village life – many of whom share their best tips on excursions and activites – ranging from the children’s story trail to the valley’s local activities, culture, excursions or perhaps fishing for char and trout in Vojmån / Vaimuojeänuo (Hjärtälven) or other watercourses.

A luxury life in nature begins at www.kittelfjall.com Warm welcome!

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INTRO

WE WERE BLESSED WITH THE BEST!

(but we’re more than happy to share)

Photography: Sam Hedman

A long coastline with a seemingly endless horizon. A vast expanse of unexploited inland with mile upon mile of forest and wilderness. A cruelly beautiful and wild mountain world that attracts just as many visitors during the winter as in the summer months. Water, forest, mountain... Very few other regions can boast of having all of this. We truly are blessed. However, we’re more than happy to share. Visit us to enjoy all of our blessings, large and small. For example, summer hiking in our fantastic mountains. Fill our valleys with small red tents at the foot of soaring mountain sides and listen to the sounds of silence.

Welcome. We in Västerbotten were blessed with the best, if we do say so ourselves. [FB]

EDITORIAL

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Magasin Västerbotten is an independent magazine

Fredrik Berndes [FB], Anna Granlund [AG]

Andreas Nilsson, Hemavan Fly, Ina-Theres Sparrok, Johan Gunséus, Sam Hedman, Ted Logardt, Thea Holmqvist, Paulina Holmgren, Lena Magnusson, Patrick Trägårdh, Per Jarl

produced by GILLA Produktionbyrå AB and publis-

ART DIRECTOR Fredrik Berndes.

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Anna Granlund [AG], Beatrice Bergqvist [BB] Fredrik Berndes [FB], Sam Hedman [SH], Ted Logardt [TL]

EDITORIAL CONTACT Magasin Västerbotten Storgatan 67, 903 30 UMEÅ, Sweden mail@magasinvasterbotten.se www.magasinvasterbotten.se

hed by PLENTY Publishing AB. No responsibility can be accepted for unsolicited contributions.

Opinions submitted by individual contributors do not necessarily represent those of the magazine’s publisher or editor. Magasin Västerbotten is printed on uncoated paper, Amber Graphic 100 g (interior) and Amber Graphic 240 g (cover).

The cover is matt laminated.

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INTRO

Björnlandet

Eating gnats

The waves and squalls mix with the swells and happy gurgles of the rapids. Count on the odd cold shower and keep your mouth shut at the imminent risk of a mouthful of gnats.

Tasty! Organisers: byskeaventyr.se, forsranning.com, forsknackarna.se

In the midst of Åsele’s Lappish territories lies Björnlandet National Park. The park was established in 1991 and is the only national park in Västerbotten.

The park’s forests are mostly comprised of old pines. The most common age of trees is around 180 years old, although some are considerably older. In summer 2017, the park was expanded to twice its original size. Björnlandet is considered to be among the world’s most valuable ancient forests. [FB] www.nationalparksofsweden.se/choose-park---list/bjornlandet-national-park

Challenging hikes

Photography: Per Jarl

The Marsfjäll mountains, ranging approximately 100-150 km from Vilhelmina, offer beautiful but challenging hikes.

This nature reserve contains everything from open mountainside to birch forests and ancient woodlands. The area has a wealth birdlife including grey goose, crane, whimbrel and ruff, so a good pair on binoculars is recommended.

The park is also home to bears, so tread carefully while in the area. [AG]

Stieg Larsson’s hometown

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Umeå’s central shopping area is comprised of a large pedestrianised area around Kungsgatan with the city shopping centres MVG and Utopia. Rådhusesplanaden between Umeå Central Station and Umeå Town Hall offers a wide range of shopping from beauty products and interior design to exclusive designer clothing. Along Skolgatan, shopping is dominated by the Saga Shopping Centre – a collection of specialist boutiques.

Umeå quite simply offers city shopping in compact style. [FB]

Outdoor swimming deluxe

Photography: Sam Hedman

One of Västerbotten’s most famous sons is undoubtedly author and journalist Stieg Larsson (1954-2004), who grew up in Umeå. His Millennium Trilogy has so far sold a total of 80 million copies and has been translated into 50 languages. Protagonist Lisbeth Salander is said to be based on a typical Umeå girl.

Stieg Larsson combined skilful storytelling with an uncompromising stance on human rights and democracy, gender equality and the struggle against nationalism – watchwords that we here in Umeå carry proudly forward into the future. [FB]

City shopping compact style

Why not test wild swimming in giant caves, glacial pools and waterfalls? The mountains of Västerbotten are just as magical in summer as in winter. In the Hemavan-Tärnaby area for example, you can enjoy genuine mountain bathing in Ruttjebäcken, while in the same area at Solberg you can sunbathe on sandy beaches that, with their spectacular views of snow-tipped peaks, are far more exotic than anything in Spain.

And, as if that weren’t enough, the fishing is great in the lake at Nuolpen! [AG]

INTRO

Hike in the footsteps of royalty

Photography: Sam Hedman

Kungsleden, the King’s Trail, stretches for 450 km through the Swedish mountains and is one of the world’s great hiking trails. From Hemavan in the south to Abisko in the north, the trail offers beautiful alpine experiences and a wide variety of natural surroundings. Start in Hemavan and hike the 78 kilometres to Ammarnäs. Here are a few suggestions for suitable daily stages. [FB]

Kungsleden passes through the majestic Syterskalet.

Photography: Yogastudion i Umeå

Yoga retreat Do you dream of taking a break, opening your senses and recharging your batteries? If so, perhaps a yoga retreat is the ideal model.

“We were looking for a location for a yoga retreat close to Umeå, somewhere in beautiful natural surroundings with an ecological profile. As soon as we arrived in Granö Beckasin, we realised that we had found what we were looking for,” explains Maria Bergmark, founder and manager of Yogastudion in Umeå.

Here, you have the chance to practice yoga and meditation, and to eat and sleep well.

The programme includes restorative yoga, yoga nidre and meditation, and you will stay in either the eco-hotel or in one of the bird's nest up among the trees – in the midst of nature, with full hotel standards.

“We are delighted that Yogastudion has chosen to collaborate with Granö Beckasin! Yoga is a perfect match for us. We have peace and quiet, a beautiful and harmonic environment with views across the Ume River and a desire for our guests to open their minds,” says Annika Rydman, CEO of Granö Beckasin. [AG]

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INTRO

Foto: Ted Logardt

Get a Greeter!

– BOOK A PERSONAL GREETING

Global Greeters is a global network of hosts looking to share their love of a particular place on Earth. Here you will get to know more about Greeters in Skellefteå, Västerbotten.

This is how it works . A greeter will take you around town for a couple of hours, telling you about this and that and giving you a personal introduction to the place. At no cost. That’s a fine example of local hospitality.

— To me it felt natural, Viveca Söderlund says, explaining why she is now one of Skellefteå’s Greeters. When I was a child we lived in many different places around the world and we always learned the location of the best beaches and markets from the locals.

WHY BECOME A GREETER? An important part of Viveca’s motivation lies

in meeting new people.

— I’m curious about new people and these encounters are enormously rewarding. Last time around I met a lovely couple from Poland, whom I would of course never have met if not for my role as a Greeter.

The couple had travelled by car through large parts of northern Scandinavia and had a good grasp of many of the important sights to see in Swedish Lapland.

— They had marked Sarek, Treehotel and Icehotel on the map, so it was great to show them what Skellefteå had to offer. We went up Falkberget Mountain, amongst other places, which they really enjoyed.

MATCHING As a Greeter, you create your own online profile on the website, in which you specify your areas of interest, in order to make your match with various visitors as rewarding as possible.

— I actually have a broad spectrum of inte-

rests, but nature first and foremost. I feel that the natural environment has so much to offer, not least in our part of the world. Our history, culture and geography is all rooted in the natural environment.

If you are visiting and would like to book a Greeter, this can be done on the same website.

DISCOVER YOUR DESTINATION Being a Greeter also means that you have every reason to discover all the experiences available close to home.

— On a sunny winter day or an amazing summer night, things can just fall into place, however at other times, you will have to be more creative. It’s easy to forget that we live in a fantastic place, even when the weather is a bit grey and dreary. Skellefteå and Västerbotten has so much to offer. [TL]

Photography: Fjällhästen

The clatter of hooves

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Experience Västerbotten from horseback this summer. From coast to mountains across the entire region, there are excellent opportunities to set off on an adventure in the company of a four-legged friend. Västerbotten’s various riding tour organisers offer everything from mountain rides lasting several days to shorter half-day tours. Get in touch with one of the yards: Enhörningens hästgård, 073-083 53 08, Vindeln, Sunnadalens islandshästar, 0935-300 50, Vännäs, Backfors Gård, 070663 2890, Bjurholm, Ammarnäsfjällens Islandshästar, 070-243 20 47, Ammarnäs, Fjällhästen, 0952-60 300, Ammarnäs, Horse Adventures, 070-557 75 21, Kåge, Camp Caribo, 073-836 30 17, Kusmark. [FB]

INTRO

SUMMER SUMMITS 2018 This

Photography: Hemavan fly

years que st starts on July 7th . As a start ing event, a g uided tour is arranged. M ore inform ation is available at hemavanta rnaby.com

Summer Summits – quest to reach the summits nothing less than a success

Summer 2017 was a fantastic summer during which one left the house each day to check off one more box on the list of summits.

Locals and visitors alike were intent on experiencing the summer with likeminded souls in the mountains around Hemavan-Tärnaby.

Summer Summits began on 8 July. The summit checklist included 11 peaks totalling 14,000 metres to be scaled and checked off

on the summit list before 8 October, a period of 93 days. Having climbed at least four summits (or two for children up to 15 years of age), the checklist could be handed in at Hemavan Tärnaby Tourist Office or Naturum

Photography: Hemavan fly

Hemavan Tärnaby is home to a large number of summits that are ideally suited to hiking tours. Accessible, nearby and in beautiful mountain surroundings.

Prior to summer 2017, the Summer Summits competition was launched to attract more people to the mountains. A concept that can only be described as a resounding success!

Vindelfjällen to be entered in a lottery for a gift voucher.

Those who have been particularly active and visited eight summits during summer 2017

have earned the right to purchase a special enamel summit badge. From among these hardy souls, a Summit Champion was chosen.

In the final analysis, large numbers of visitors have taken part and climbed the area’s summits. In fact, considerably more than the organisers dared hope for.

The #sommartopparhemavantarnaby hashtag has been used over 500 times on Instagram. The photographs show a wonderful mixture of people of all ages. The aim was never to hold a competition to find the best, but rather to encourage everyone, irrespective of age or level of expertise, to get out and explore the summits.

One can only say that this aim was more than fulfilled and it whets the appetite for summer 2018, when it will be time once again to conquer the summits. Summer Summit will begin on 7 July so grab your checklist and your hiking boots, and begin to check off those peaks! [FB]

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INTRO

CHRIST IN THE MOUNTAIN

Photography: Thea Holmqvist /Gold of Lapland

– Christ shall appear three times ...

ANIMALS UP CLOSE

THE BIG FOUR Lycksele Zoo is Sweden’s northernmost animal park. The zoo specialises in Nordic fauna. Here, you will find many exciting animals, including Sweden’s big four – the wolf, the bear, the wolverine and the lynx – as well as musk ox, bison, elk, roe deer, reindeer, red deer, wild boar and more. lyckseledjurpark.se MEET THE KING OF THE FOREST It can be a little overwhelming, even unreal, to meet these gigantic animals up close, but this is an entirely natural part of any visit to Älgens Hus. The opportunity to pet the moose is what makes the Älgens Hus experience unique, but the entire visit to the park will be an exciting adventure, irrespective of your age. algenshus.se LLAMA AND CAMEL Mickelbo Farm, in Mickelträsk (40 km from Umeå), is a mini-zoo with both Swedish farm animals and more exotic creatures such as yaks, llamas and camels. There is also a farm shop and café serving tasty home-produced food. mickelbo.se FACE TO FACE IN THE WILDERNESS Imagine how it would be to leave the stress and hubbub behind you for a couple of days, to breathe in the fresh air of the forest and meet its four-legged or winged inhabitants face to face – in the role of nature photographer. Västerbotten is the perfect place for just such a pursuit. danielnordgren.com, connylundstrom.com, wildlifelapland.com

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It was on 28 November 1946 and miner Johan Olofsson was working as usual blasting ore at a level of 107 metres. Just before midnight, having fired his final charge, he ended his shift. A few

hours later, more precisely at five o’clock the following morning, Albert Jönsson began his shift, taking over where Johan Olofsson left off.

The dust had settled after the previous night’s blasting and Albert was surprised by what he saw. On the rock wall before him, an image of Christ had emerged, picked out in white quartz-sericite against the darker chlorite-quartzite. Albert went to fetch one of his workmates who confirmed the vision. The news spread like wildfire and the local newspaper, Norra Västerbotten, published the image. People made the pilgrimage to Kristineberg, descending to the 107-metre level and then climbing 13 metres up a vertical iron ladder to admire the figure.

The image faded and the space was eventually filled in with gravel, but the event was never forgotten and was linked to a late-nineteenth century prophecy by a Vilhelmina woman. The prophecy said that Christ would appear and that there was a land where an image of Christ was buried in the bowels of the earth. The prophecy did not foretell when, but said that he would appear three times prior to Judgement Day. The Kristineberg event was the first of these appearances.

In the mining community of Kristineberg, the name of which comes not from this event but the name of early settler Karl Hultdin’s wife Kristina, life went on at its usual, leisurely pace and work in the mine continued. Until 1968, when a marble slab from a Kristineberg supermarket was turned over, only to reveal a dark image of Christ against the white background. Christ has appeared for the second time...

The ecumenical underground church of Saint Anna lies only metres from the place where the image of Christ appeared and here you can listen to the story, sense the mystery and experience the fantastic atmosphere. [BB]

INTRO

The Wilderness Road

Photography: Lena Magnusson

– Enjoy the spectacular mountains of Västerbotten in Lapland from the comfort of you car.

The Wilderness Road is one of Sweden’s highest roads and connects Jämtland with Västerbotten in Lapland. The naturally beautiful and

wild road passes through the Village of Stora Blåsjön and over the mighty high plateau of Stekenjokk as it winds into Southern Lapland.

The first part of the Wilderness Road, through the Valley of Ströms Vattudal and further towards Gäddede is a beautiful stretch of road dotted with waterways the attract anglers from across the globe.

Just a few hours’ drive up the mountain you will find the mighty waterfall of Hällingsåfallet, Swedens Grand Canyon. Hällingsåfallet plunges down a 45 meter high abyss and continues down Sweden’s longest canyon. Close by Hällingsåfallet you will find the unique the

underwater river of Bjurälven, Sweden’s longest underwater cave and the cave Korallgrottan. Here you can get a guided tour inside the cave and the nearby nature reserve and karst formation, the largest in Scandinavia.

The most spectacular part of the Wilderness Road is over the high plateau of Stekenjokk and opens in the beginning of June to the middle of October. During the rest of the year, the snow cover is too deep for the road to be open. Up here you can normally ski until midsummer. When the road opens in June, the depth of the snow can be up to 6 meters. The Wilderness road is one of the few places where you have direct access to the higher mountainous areas from the road and gives you the possibility to go mountain hiking on four wheels.

TOP-CLASS CUISINE

We are mighty proud of our natural flavours. Those that are founded on a natural balance in which fantastic produce has been allowed to grow at its own pace and on its own terms. Our characteristic ingredients carry all of the distinct flavours of our open agricultural landscape, wetland marshes and dense forests. Sometimes, these manifest themselves in a reindeer lichen fritter accompanying a lightly smoked venison tart at one of Västerbotten’s top restaurants. Or it might be something as simple as a mug of hot chocolate and a sandwich of home-baked bread and a generous slice of Västerbotten cheese, eaten in a snowdrift as the winter sun warms from a clear blue sky. What all of our natural flavours have in common is that they all draw their energy from pure, fresh natural surroundings – something that can only reinforce your experience of Västerbotten. [AG]

Restaurant tips:

Angelini, Umeå Bistro Le Garage, Umeå Borgafjäll Hotell, Borgafjäll Bryggargatan Bistro & bar, Skellefteå Fleetwoods Matsal, Hemavan Gotthards Krog, Umeå Hunger & Törst, Umeå Hemavans Wärdshus , Hemavan Invito Ristorante, Umeå Juliette, Umeå Köksbaren, Umeå Nannas Kök & Bar, Hemavan Rex Bar & Grill, Umeå

Bryggargatan Bistro & bar, Skellefteå Photography: Paulina Holmgren

Restaurang 6:e våningen, Skellefteå Restaurang Nygatan 57, Skellefteå

Runt Hörnet, Umeå Rådhuskällaren, Umeå Stadskällaren, Skellefteå Stiftsgården, Skellefteå Tapas Bar Deli, Umeå TC Bar & Restaurang, Umeå Tärnaby fjällhotell, Tärnaby Virisen, Tärnaby Wild River, Mårdseleforsen Älvtåets ekokrog, Umeå

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Some of the best cheeses in Sweden WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY: TED LOGARDT

On the slope leading down to the lake, 37 cows are grazing. Some are drinking water on the shore. The grass is green and if you are standing out in the yard, the view of Lake Storkågeträsket is second to none. No, the rural romanticism cannot be ignored. Then again, this is where the life of one of Sweden’s most well renowned cheeses begins.

T

he facade of the farmhouse dairy is a plastered white. The front door is deep red with a stainless steel plate displaying the company name. Pär and Johanna live in the nearby house. They would have it no other way. They also make some of the best cheeses in Sweden. All the awards that the couple and their cheeses have won, attest to that. Gold medal upon gold medal in the Swedish Championship. Silver and bronze.

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Farming entrepreneurs of the year. The People’s Choice Award. Words of praise from several other fashionable outlets.

However, more than anything, you realise upon meeting Pär and Johanna that cheese making is about love. Love of the place, of the process and of the product.

– You could say that we have condensed our lives – everything we know and stand for; the beautiful life at a farm in the northern forestland, into a cheese.

A JOURNEY OF INSPIRATION – But we don’t make just one cheese, we make three, says Johanna, welcoming us inside the dairy. The Svejdan Gårdsost (Farm Cheese) is described as a hard cheese with small holes, inspired by Swedish cheesemaking traditions. The Svedjan Rustik (Rustic) is a blue cheese with a full, pleasant taste and soft texture, whilst the Smedjan Blå (Blue) is a rich blue cheese with a creamy texture.

"We use morning milk and 500 litres is made into three hard cheeses."

The story of Svedjan Ost began in 2009. Back then, Pär and Johanna were involved in a different kind of farming. But the world around them changed so did the conditions for life on the farm.

– We were not really sure which way to go, says Johanna. We had briefly looked into cheesemaking, but it wasn’t more than that.

The couple still decided to go on a journey of inspiration together with Eldrimner — the national centre for artisan foods.

– And then, on a farm in southern France, the penny dropped. That’s exactly how we wanted to live. The French way of supporting their cheese tradition felt natural and was also directly transferable to our natural conditions up in the far north.

CHEMICAL PROCESSES With the support of French master cheesemaker, Michel Lepage and Eldrimner, led by Bodil Cornell, Pär and Johanna began their journey towards becoming cheesemakers.

– We immediately decided that we wanted to make a long-term investment and grow slowly. At our own pace.

Making cheese is actually quite complicated and a lot of it is about chemical processes, explains Pär. It took us about two years to fully understand how things are connected.

What happens to the taste at various stages and how that affects the final product.

– The milk is of course highly important, Johanna continues. We use morning milk and 500 litres is made into three hard cheeses.

– And it’s all interconnected actually. The animals.

The dairy. The care. The farm. The history. The buildings. The cultural landscape. All of this affects your experience of the flavour, which is why you couldn’t make Svedjan cheese anywhere but here.

CULTURAL EVENTS IN THE BARN There is also a barn in the yard, Göte’s hay barn. There, Johanna and Pär have been organising cultural events every summer since the early 2010’s. Sometimes, there has been theatre, other times music.

– Every year we hold an art event called ‘KOnstHAGEN’ with an open house, an arts and crafts exhibition and of course Swedish fika.

•

Enjoy Svedjan cheese Svedjan Cheese is on the menus of several restaurants in Sweden. If you would like to buy some to take home with you, you can find Svedjan Cheese in several ICA supermarkets, at the Burträsk market hall, as well as at Nygatan 57’s Skafferi and Stadskällaren in central Skellefteå. The best place to get it, however, may well be the country store in Storkågeträsk, a stone’s throw from the farmhouse dairy.

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Photography: Ina-Theres Sparrok Photography: Sam Hedman

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“The knowledge I and my family bear is something that can’t be googled,”

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“My life is where the reindeers are” – Discover Sami culture with reindeer herder Margret in Kittelfjäll

WORDS: ANNA GRANLUND

M

argret Viklund Fjällström lives in Kittelfjäll with her husband and two children.

Margret’s family have lived here for generations – and all have been reindeer herders for as long as Margret can remember.

Here, people live their lives based on the changing seasons and the needs of the reindeer. During the winter, the reindeer are found in the woodland on the border between Västerbotten and Västernorrland, while in summertime they remain up in the mountains around Kittelfjäll, where they require constant monitoring and control so that they do not set off in the wrong direction. To a large extent, the weather decides and there is no choice but to follow – if, for example, there is a great deal of cloud, the reindeer will move westwards and if, like this year, there is a great deal of snow, then support fodder will be required. During the winter months Margret also works as a manager at the Hotel Kittelfjäll, meaning that every day off she must travel to wherever the reindeers are to work with them.

THE EIGHT SEASONS OF THE REINDEER HERDER Margret takes her holidays in May, when the hotel is closed and she has a chance to recharge her batteries in the mountains – even if it isn’t a holiday as most of us would understand it. Spring is a time of intense activity for the reindeer herder, when they must guard the reindeer during calving up in the mountains. However, it is also a time to recover; there is plenty of daylight and a great deal of joy in greeting the newborn calves.

The life of the reindeer herder is actually governed by eight different seasons, with the most hectic periods of the year falling in spring, when the reindeer must be moved and when it is time for calving – with herders working day and night for several days – and then another peak in October-November, when it’s time to separate the reindeer that will go to slaughter and round up those that have scattered and lost the herd.

LIVING WITH HISTORY The area around Kittelfjäll has several sites of historical interest to Sami culture, although these are far from easy to find. This is because the Sami have learnt over

many generations to leave no trace behind them. In areas such as Silisen, efforts are therefore being made to preserve and maintain cabins, huts, milking pens, corrals and other structures for future generations – as well as the knowledge of what they were used for. At Silisen during the summer it is possible to take a tour of these places with knowledgeable guides.

Passing on their knowledge to future generations is extremely important to Margret and her family: “The knowledge I and my family bear is something that can’t be googled,” says Margret, whose own history has been inherited in stories passed down through the family, and by following the reindeers.

LIVING AS SAMI TODAY The greatest challenge facing Margret and her family today is nature itself, and that it is no longer the same as it once was. Climate change causes both winters with little snow and, like this year, winters that never seem to end. Changes in forestry practices reduce natural fodder, wind turbines affect how the reindeer roam and predators are both increasing in population and moving closer and closer to communities. Margret remains hopeful for the future however, and the Sami recently won a court case to prevent further wind turbines from being constructed – meaning that their reindeers can continue to roam their traditional routes. There are also a number of prejudices regarding Sami culture, for instance that all Sami have reindeer. However, there are many, many Sami in Sweden today who live by other means but who still bear their common heritage.

DREAMS FOR THE FUTURE Margret’s own dream for the future is to be able to continue managing her reindeer herd so that they can be passed on to her children and grandchildren. And that reindeer husbandry as a business takes on a more important role in society. That all Sami should be able to speak the Sami language is also high on her wish list, as today far from all are able to do so: “A culture with a living language is a strong culture,” believes Margret, who thinks that it should be just as natural to choose to learn Sami in school as Swedish.

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A SWEDISH ‘FIKA’ PLEASE!

At work, I perfunctorily pour a cup of coffee from a pot that has stood far too long. It’s an old habit that sees a great many cups consumed over the course of the day. However, after my visit to Rost Kaffe and the Costa’s Roastery in Umeå, and a trip to Budha’s Coffee Roastery in Lycksele, I’m finished with all that. Coffee is something to be savoured.

WORDS: ANNA GRANLUND PHOTOGRAPHY: ROST KAFFE

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nna-Karin Gustafsson and Daniel Gonzalez run the restaurant Rost in the Utopia Shopping Centre, but have also opened Rost Kaffe as a complement and an oasis where they can let their enthusiasm for good coffee run wild: – At the lunch restaurant we work under pressure with a focus on food but at Rost Kaffe, we have the opportunity to put a little more time and care into the coffee we serve, explains Anna-Karin. Daniel chips in: – Lots of people complain about the lousy coffee on offer at work but they drink it anyway. If you drink a really good cup coffee, you don’t need to drink it as often, because the taste lasts much longer.

According to Daniel’s theory, instead of continuously throwing away old coffee and brewing new, it would be cheaper to buy a coffee mill and a quality coffee maker, grind your own beans and drink fewer cups of quality coffee.

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COFFEE – A CRAFT Probably not many people are aware that coffee begins life as a fruit, nor that a healthy coffee tree can bear fruit for approximately 30 years. Just like wine, where in the world the tree grows is significant; if it stands on a slope, in sunshine or shade, at what altitude – these and many more factors affect the taste of the beans. Then of course, there are a variety of roasting and brewing methods to choose from.

At Costa’s Roastery, the scent of freshly roasted coffee hangs heavy in the air. Costa himself has a distinct philosophy when it comes to his work. He always strives to find the best coffee beans cultivated by the most skilful growers. And by paying top price for the beans, he contributes to the long-term success of the growers and their families. On the question of where the best growers are

to be found, in Costa’s opinion they are in places such as Brazil, Panama, Ethiopia and India. One of Costa’s many disciples is Budha Sutedja, who has now branched out to open his own micro-roastery, café and shop in Lycksele. There he selects and blends beans and tests various roasting methods – with everything noted in a logbook so that previous roastings can be compared with new. The

aim is to continuously learn more and to be able to keep the entire process in-house, from selecting the beans to serving the customer their steaming cup of coffee: "A perfect cup of coffee must have a good balance between sweetness, bitterness and salt."

Budha is heavily invested in ensuring that everything is organic and that the people of Lycksele enjoy their coffee. When Budha chooses his own favourite coffee, it is a bean with the same origin as Budha himself; a coffee from Sulawesi in Indonesia: – It’s a unique coffee, spicy, fruity and well-balanced.

WORTH KNOWING: When coffee is ground, because oxygen is mixed with the ground coffee, the beans “die”. So, brew it immediately after grinding. If you buy readyground beans, the packet should be no more six months old.

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Fishing for real!

THERE ARE MANY TOP CLASS RIVERS IN VÄSTERBOTTEN, SEVERAL OF WHICH ARE CLASSIFIED AS WILD SALMON RIVERS. SUCH A CONCENTRATION OF SALMON WATERS CANNOT BE FOUND ANYWHERE ELSE IN SWEDEN - AND THE CROWN JEWEL IS BYSKE RIVER, WITHOUT A DOUBT, HOWEVER, YOU NEED TO EARN YOUR BYSKE SALMON.

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY: TED LOGARDT

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he Byske River is a formidable fly fishing river. Just consider the fact that the river has an impressive drop of 38 metres in the last 11 kilometres before reaching the sea — and one fishing licence covers a river stretch totalling 100 kilometres – two banks! The Byske River is also very accessible. Roads run along the north side of the river and forest roads run along large parts of the south side.

– But don’t think that you can just walk out there and catch a Byske salmon, smiles Andreas Andersson, dedicated salmon fisher, born and raised by the Byske river.

EARLY SUMMER FISHING

Salmon season begins in late May. – If there’s a strong flow of water, you need to get down to the fish, says Andreas.

The rule of thumb is ‘the deeper the better’ and the whole point of

sink-line fishing is to ‘hang’ the fly as close to the salmon as possible.

– You can’t just go with the heaviest that you’ve got and hope for the best.

You have to keep check on your gear.

If you don’t, you’ll always hit the bottom or worse, hook the salmon wrong. The risk of this happening is particularly high if you sweep the fly quick and deep. Picture keeping the rod high and cast narrow angles.

According to Andreas, you must actively adapt your fishing to the environment and current conditions.

– If I don’t I have the energy to switch lines when switching fishing spots, I might as well go home and go to bed, he laughs.

When the water has become slightly warmer and the flow is less intense, it might be time to sweep the fly closer to the surface in a more traditional manner.

– A tip then is to fish the fly as quickly as possible.

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”– You know, he continues, one thing remains the same. You still have to earn your Byske salmon. That’s just the way it is. A Byske fisher can never grow soft, you have to have a strong head and an iron will.”

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NOT FOR EVERYONE

The river fishes very well throughout all of June. July on the other hand often means bathing weather with water temperatures a tad too high. It makes fishing a lot more difficult and things won’t usually pick up until after a real summer downpour. In August, the temperature normally goes down and schools of smaller salmon will then enter the river. In addition to casting heavy sinking lines, a Byske fisher must be prepared to wade deeply.

Not always of course and not at every spot, but the Byske River is tough, particularly early in the season. This means that the Byske River is not for everyone. On the other hand, few fish warm a weary fly fisher’s heart like a silver shimmering Byske River salmon.

A POSITIVE TREND

In recent years many rivers in northern Sweden have seen an increase in salmons running the rivers, and Byske is no exception. The Byske personality Anders Cederberg recalls how things used be: – Thirty years ago, we totalled 13 salmon fishers active in the Byske River. Back then we met at Landfors. That used to be our point of departure. Sometimes, one of us had seen a fish and that really caught the attention of everyone else in the group. That was the level of things. The river was long and the fish were few. That made its mark on the fishing.

– You know, he continues, one thing remains the same. You still have to earn your Byske salmon. That’s just the way it is.

A Byske fisher can never grow soft, you have to have a strong head and an iron will. Yes, sometimes you must be almost foolhardy. It’s often cramped near the water, with trees and shrubbery in the way.

– Yeah, you know, Anders smiles and scratches his head, there are simpler salmon rivers than Byske, but none more rewarding when everything is right.

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OTHER FINE FISHING IN VÄSTERBOTTEN

Burträsket – Pike lake with Sweden’s most northerly stock of pikeperch.

Hemavan Tärnaby – The summer months offer many different kinds of fishing including flowing streams and rivers, arctic char lakes above the tree line and fishing from a boat. The best spots for fishing include lakes and outflows, river promontories and deeper sections.

Kittelfjäll – Vojmån is home to some of Sweden’s best freshwater trout fishing. This is a fish best caught with fly rod or casting. If you’re lucky you may even catch extremely large brown trout.

The Kittelfjäll area is home to hundreds of small lakes and streams that all offer good game fishing.

Kåge River – Top-class sea trout fishing (spring and autumn). This is Västerbotten’s “newest” wild salmon river, only achieving that status in 2014.

Lögde River – One of Sweden’s finest salmon and sea trout

waterways. During certain periods the river may even offer high-class freshwater trout fishing. The river is a 200 km-long woodland river that rises in Gransjön near Vilhelmina and runs out into Nordmaling Bay. Stora Bygdeträsket – Västerbotten’s largest lake and a natural fishing hotspot for large pike.

Svartbäcksträsket – Fly fishing lake with large, wild brown trout.

Vindelälven - This is one of Sweden’s few unregulated national rivers and moreover a nationally famous sport fishing venue.

Apart from grayling you can also hook salmon and brown trout.

The rapids in Vindeln, from Renforsen and downstream, are good fishing spots. Öreälven – A river that runs from Stöttingfjället, west of Lycksele, and runs out to sea at Nordmaling. In its lower reaches the river meanders considerably and here you will find a large number of cut-off oxbow lakes. The river harbours a large number of sea trout and salmon numbers have increased over recent years.

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Umeå teems with culinary hot spots WORDS: ANNA GRANLUND

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Over recent years, Umeå has become a culinary city to reckon with, a fact that is made especially conspicuous by the number of restaurants available to visit and the impossibility of getting a table on a Friday or Saturday night without a booking. It is also very much apparent from the increased standards and quality-consciousness that are very much the common threads weaved through Umeå’s restaurant trade.

nother reason behind this increased range is the ever-increasing interest and awareness among Umeå residents when it comes to food and drink. This can be attributed to a number of factors, including Umeå’s growth as a city, its healthy entrepreneurial climate and experience as 2014 European Capital of Culture, all of which have been positive in increasing interest in Umeå as a destination.

Quite simply, Umeå feels increasingly like a mini metropolis; the behaviour one see’s in large cities, with people out and about in restaurants and bars even on weekdays, is now visible here as well.

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– Where previously couples ate dinner at home, they now go out to a restaurant, says Mia Karlsson Jonsson of Rex, by way of an example. She feels that the people of Umeå are getting better at going out. Lars and Per Åkerlund of Open-Closed in Väven believe that the restaurant is now seen as a meeting place like any other, where one can enjoy a positive experience even during the week.

These two gentlemen, who have run delicatessen Duå for ten years, are also the subject of considerable praise from many of the city’s restauranteurs – they are seen as two of the major inspirations behind the increased interest of Umeå residents in food and drink.

Both Anders Samuelsson at Gotthards and Peter Stenmark who runs Köksbaren and Le Garage say that the brothers’ love of quality produce, and their dedication to conveying this passion, has been crucial, even if there has clearly been a generally increased interest throughout Sweden, driven by the media in various food programmes and the explosion in niche cookbooks.

Jörgen Engdahl at Hunger & Törst also speaks of the enthusiasm for the local, the genuine and typically northern.

– We have a richly stocked larder of raw ingredients all around us, which in itself increases awareness; people have game in the freezer

1. Even if Köksbaren is first and foremost a meat restaurant, it does serve fish and other dishes. 2. Rådhuskällaren has an impressive range of over 120 different beers. 3. Hunger & Törst.

4. Lars, Per with staff offer a warm welcome to Open-Closed.

at home, berries picked on their doorstep and mushrooms from their last trip to the mountains. Quite simply, people want to know here the food they are consuming comes from.

One thing that many Umeå restaurants have in common is an interest in locally sourced and grown, organic produce, as well as the use of new techniques in the kitchen. But of course, they all have their own niche that they believe in.

At Gotthards, they look to challenge themselves by preparing food that has never been made before. Their goals are to focus on green produce in many of their dishes and to capture an ethnic element by using unexpected spices that provide unusual flavour combinations.

The menu is change on a monthly basis and has a strong emphasis on sustainability in terms of preparation, with each raw ingredient used in its entirety.

As an example, Köksbaren has opened Vinrum, a chambre separée for up to six diners. Those who book this room can look forward to an individual, holistic concept that will leave nobody unmoved. The menu they are offered is always a surprise, although it will always consist of dishes that excite and challenge the chefs. Aims are high, with Peter Stenmark speaking in terms such as “no limits” and “Umeå’s best dining hole!”.

Otherwise, they continue along their chosen paths, with Köksbaren an excellent meat restaurant with a strong social aspect and Le Garage a proud family restaurant serving French bistro cuisine with a Swedish twist.

At Rex, they also harbour high ambitions. When the restaurant celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2016, they were able to offer Umeå Town Hall in its entirety to the city’s residents. In addition to the Rex brasserie, the heart of the business and now Umeå’s oldest restaurant, there are now conference facilities, a floor for private parties, Rådhuskällaren – a craft beer pub taking inspiration from the USA, Canada and Denmark – and Juliette, a café during the daytime, transforming into a bistro and spacious cocktail bar catering for an adult clientele in the

evenings. At night one is met by jazz tones and a lighter, more luxurious menu of oysters and champagne, cheese and charcuterie, duck liver pate on toast and much more.

The latest addition to the group is Runt Hörnet, which also includes Invito and Allstar, serving cold side dishes, somewhat larger than starters but smaller than main courses. The idea is to allow customers to test a number of dishes. The menu changes weekly and dishes are seasonal.

Hunger & Törst, located in the classic Aschanska Villa beside the Umeå River and previous home of the restaurant Socialize, is now run by restaurateur Jörgen Engdahl. He is fulfilling his culinary dreams with a fixed three or five-course menu that changes each week. The restaurant quite simply chooses on behalf of the guest, to offer the very best seasonal produce. Despite the fixed menu, Jörgen emphasise that anyone with allergies or who doesn’t, for example, eat fish or meat should inform the staff and this can be resolved at the time; although naturally, if this is notified in advance the restaurant will be better able to surprise.

Each menu has a set drinks and wine package, although you are of course welcome to browse the range in the cellar. Aside from the fixed menus, cheese and wine is also on offer as well as a chambre separée for up to 22 guests, or simply a pleasant sojourn at the bar. The restaurant has also been known to invite different wine, cheese and beer producers to make guest appearances.

Open-Closed, the renowned cocktail bar that transforms delicatessen Duå into a campfire spot for a small but fortunate crowd of guests each Wednesday through Saturday evening, is constantly developing its bar.

This involves working hard on its unique expression, continuing to focus on excellent produce and, not least, its fine history. Because a cocktail menu that changes form every other week under the auspices of prize-winning bartenders Emil Åreng and Karl-Martin Edin, while remaining true to its style, can never do anything other than delight.

And another bonus is that you never know who you’ll run into at the bar.

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The trail leading up to Norra Sytertoppen from Viterskalsstugan is stony and quite steep in places. The view is fantastic. When lifting your gaze from the trail to enjoy the views, stand still. Otherwise it’s easy to stumble over a loose stone.

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Mountain Hiking – The magnificent mountain world of Hemavan Tärnaby

VÄSTERBOTTEN’S HIGHEST MOUNTAIN RANGE, WITH ITS GLACIERS AND HIGH ALPINE NATURE, IS SURPRISINGLY EASY TO ACCESS. NORRA STORFJÄLLET IS CERTAINLY WORTH TOURING FOR A FEW NIGHTS SPENT IN CABIN AND TENT. EXPERIENCE IT ALL DURING A COUPLE OF DAYS.

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY: SAM HEDMAN

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he mountains of Västerbotten, an area that has long been known as a white spot on the map. An often-overlooked range that many have yet to explore. Västerbotten is home to five major mountain-valley ranges, each with a unique character. For most of us, these may seem somewhat remote. It can be tricky to reach several of them without a car.

But of course, that’s what attracts increasing numbers of hikers. Discovering genuine, untouched wilderness.

The easiest to reach is Norra Storfjället. Västerbotten’s high-alpine region, complete with glaciers and the county’s highest peaks. Wild nature in the form of plants, animals and birds. This range is part of the Vindel Mountains Nature Reserve, one of Europe’s largest protected areas of natural beauty, covering 560,000 hectares of forest, mountain and water. The easiest way to get here is via Hemavan.

Hemavan is a tourist resort located 60 km from the Norwegian border on the E12 motorway. It can be reached from Stockholm by plane, from Umeå by bus or by driving. The resort is increasingly becoming a hiking hub for Västerbotten’s mountains. It is ideally located for resupplying, resting in a hotel or taking a shower after a hike.

It’s easy to hike into the wilderness directly from the Hemavan Airport or simply jump off of the bus along the E12, the Blue Highway. After a few kilometres of hiking, you will find yourself in the midst of magnificent mountain scenery with high peaks and glaciers. An excellent beginning to a couple of days hiking.

Kungsleden, the King’s Trail, begins in Hemavan and continues all the way to Abisko, some 400 kilometres to the north. One suggestion is to follow Kungsleden out of Hemavan, stopping along the way in cabins and spending a few nights camping.

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Wild nature in the form of plants, animals and birds. This range is part of the Vindel Mountains Nature Reserve, one of Europe’s largest protected areas of natural beauty. Here, glacier buttercups grow directly on the trail.

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There are two cabins on the mountains around Norra Storfjället where you can spend the night. Both are manned and are on the trail itself. The Swedish Tourist Association runs the two cabins, Viterskalsstugan and Syterstugan. Here, you can stay, buy food and shelter from bad weather. Many people use the cabins as a base for day hikes. In addition to the cabins, there are also a number of wind shelters located in the mountains. These are equipped with wooden bunks and wood-burning stoves for emergency situations. Wind shelters are useful in the wind and rain when you need to gather your energy and have a snack and a hot drink.

Norra Storfjället has Västerbotten’s highest peaks, Södra and Norra Sytertoppen. The norra, or northern, peak is highest at 1,768 metres above sea level. This is the one that everyone wants to climb, and a marked trail leads to it. The södra, or southern, peak is best accessed by hiking in through Kobåsen; a steep, narrow valley over the tree line above Hemavan.

This magnificent massif offers something for everyone. Were I to be visiting for the first time, I would probably choose a hike with overnight stays in the cabins and a couple of nights camping; a three to four-day hike with a little of everything and with Hemavan as the point of departure. Whether arriving by car, bus or airplane, it is then simply a matter of shouldering one’s backpack and setting off along Kungsleden and onwards through Viterskalet. After a night in the cabin, weather permitting, perhaps day two would be well spent climbing and descending Norra Sytertoppen before returning.

On day three, resume your hike along Kungsleden through Syterskalet then hike south along Tärnaleden, the trail that follows the Tärna River. Passing the Tärna Glacier, continue either past the wind shelter at Stabre or hike up towards Marinstugan, another small wind shelter. Either alternative will

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”There are three unmissable photo opportunities as you hike through the region. These are the Syter peaks, Syterskalet and a glacier.”

lead you along beautiful hiking trails.

The hiking trail past Marinstugan, the High Road or Vallentjåkke as it is called on the map, leads up along a more barren trail above the tree line and from the wind shelter this becomes a winter trail to Laisaliden. There is also a more demanding hiking trail across the Murtser peaks. If you want to hike the ridge, you can follow the trail straight back to Hemavan. It is also possible to hike down the winter trail, with its red cross markings, down to Laisaliden, from where you can end your hike by taking Drottningleden, the Queen’s Trail, back to Hemavan.

There are three unmissable photo opportunities as you hike through the region. These are the Syter peaks, Syterskalet and a glacier. Syterskalet is the first that must be documented. This is an impressive glacial trough with high peaks and vertical walls on both sides. Then, take a picture of the Syter peaks. A tip is to take a photograph while heading south along Tärnaleden, close to Stabre. From here, you can get both the north and south Syter peaks and the Tärna Glacier in one image.

I hope you find your way to the mountains of Västerbotten.

This is the mountain range for those who want a feeling of being the first to explore the wilderness, even though you know full well that many were here before you.

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A hiking tip: acquaint yourself with the history of the area Irrespective of which valley and massif you choose to visit in the mountains of Västerbotten, you will get the most from your hiking by doing a little historical research before your begin. This will make your trip that much more enjoyable. There may be experiences that one passes by, knowing nothing of them. Get your mind off of your blisters, tired feet and heavy pack. Learn a little about local history going back to ancient times. Even in the mountains, there are many hidden stories where people have trampled and traversed to trails for hundreds of years. Visit the Swedish National Heritage Board’s website and click on Fornsök. Here, you can look up the area of the mountains you intend to visit to discover old settlements and remains. Most of these are to be found close to waterways and in valleys. Places where it feels right to set up camp.

For further information If you would like to know more about hiking in the area, it would be appropriate to contact the Tourist Office in Tärnaby.

Their website is at www.hemavantarnaby.com. They will be happy to suggest literature and maps in preparation for your visit. The site also contains information about accommodation, flights and bus timetables. Another website worth visiting is www.vindelfjallen.se. This site offers information on the wildlife and nature around Norra Storfjället and the Vindel Mountains Nature Reserve.

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DISCOVERY

Discovery

SKRÅMTRÄSK MILLHOUSE This old millhouse has been meticulously renovated to retain the feeling and atmosphere that permeate its walls. Today, it is a delightful summer café in a genuine 1940s mill environment and serving delicious snacks from its own bakery, most of which are organic. They also sell organic flour ground in their own mini mill. skramtrask.se

BILDMUSEET UMEÅ Over the years, Bildmuseet has established itself as one of Sweden’s most interesting stages for the visual arts. As well as fascinating exhibitions, Bildmuseet also offers Umeå’s best views. In addition, entry is always free of charge. bildmuseet.umu.se

GUITARS – THE MUSEUM Umeå brothers Samuel and Michael Åhdén own one of the world’s largest private collections of guitars. Now, the whole world has a chance to see them. In total, there are around 500 exhibits on display accompanied by typical period items. guitarsthemuseum.com MUSEUM OF WOMEN’S HISTORY The Museum of Women´s History is unique in its discussion of issues of how gender relates to power, identity and history. kvinnohistoriskt.se NATURUM HEMAVAN Directly adjacent to Kungsleden’s western point of entry to the Vindelfjällen Nature Reserve lies Naturum Vindelfjällen-Hemavan and the fantastic botanical garden. Naturum offers visitors the chance to learn about the area’s exciting nature and culture. You can wander around the gardens yourself or take a guided tour. vindelfjallen.se OLOFSFORS BRUK Olofsfors Bruk is one of Sweden’s best-pre-

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SVANSELE WILDERNESS CENTRE In addition to quadbike riding, Svansele also provides the opportunity to visit one of Sweden’s largest wilderness museums. At 1,800 m2, the museum is divided into 11 rooms.

Pretty much every animal that belongs in a subarctic fauna is represented here – something like 600 species including bear, wolf and lynx. svansele.se

Photography: Ted Logardt

Finnfors Power Station Museum In 1908, a gleaming new power station went into service at Finnfors Falls. This was the first major hydro-electric construction project commissioned by the town of Skellefteå on the Skellefte River – and in its own way a demonstration of contemporary engineering art. This power station, now over a hundred years old, still stands intact with its generators, instruments and turbines. skekraft.se

served, genuine ironworks environments. The works are a cultural heritage site and classed as one of Västerbotten’s sites of national interest. olofsforsbruk.nu

Photography: Ted Logardt

The range of attractions, places of interest and experiences that Västerbotten has to offer grows every year. Museums, theatres and sites of historical interest combine with unique opportunities for overnight stays and wilderness experiences. Here are a few tips.

RISMYRLIDEN Built in 1825, today Rismyrliden is one of the region’s most appreciated excursions – a visit to Rismyrliden is like opening a door to the past. Once at the farm, you can participate in one of the many activities undertaken here, or simply enjoy the tranquil surroundings. rismyrliden.se

UMEÅ ENERGICENTRUM At Umeå Energicentrum, you can learn more about the development of electricity and its importance to Umeå. In the workshop, you can conduct a variety of experiments on the theme of sun, wind and water. An exciting destination for the whole family. Newly-developed adventure playground. umeaenergi.se

SAGABIOGRAFEN, ADAK Sagabiografen, the old cinema in Adak, is a fantastic destination and unique in its kind. Locked up, forgotten and abandoned for almost 25 years, the cinema in the municipality of Malå has been brought back to life and reopened.

An excursion for anyone with an interest in cinema, the film industry or why not simply in the genuine spirit of rural Sweden. sagabiografen.ac.se

VÄSTERBOTTEN MUSEUM A living museum for all ages. Stroll around the many exhibits, visit the popular open-air museum, enter a Sami camp or get creative in one of the workshops. Children have their very own creative workshop, Minimus. vbm.se

SLÖJDARNAS HUS Slöjdarnas Hus, located on the shore of the Vindel River in Vännäsby, sells handcrafts by local craftsman in birch bark, rattan, batik, ceramic, tissue, paintings, various styles of woodwork, crochet, knitting and much more. slojdarnashus.se SKOGSMUSEET (THE FORESTRY MUSEUM) A museum dedicated to the history of forestry, displaying the development of work and technology – from the axe and saw to the chainsaw and large forwarders and harvesters. The children’s corner emphasises learning through play and the appetite for discovery. skogsmuseet.se

WESTMAN’S CAFÉ A classic destination in Bygdsiljum that has been attracting hungry visitors since the 1930s. Wonderful green and pleasant alfresco service with delightful touches such as free-roaming peacocks. westmanscafe.se

Photography: Aisah Johansson/Gold of Lapland

DISCOVERY

Lycksele Djurpark Sweden’s most northerly zoo and fun park where you can have your own close encounter with some spectacular nordic animals. At Lycksele Djurpark there’s adventure, activities and discoveries for all ages.

You will meet many animals including musk ox, bear, wolf, seal and lynx. Make sure you

don’t miss feeding times and guided tours via the special train are available too.

A visit to Lycksele Djurpark is an adventure for all but children love the Lyckolandet fun park with its carousels, crafts and ropeways, electric cars, bumper boats etc. Little ones in particular will love the chance to pet the pigs or goats in the Children’s Zoo (Barnens

Djurpark) and horse rides are also available.

Winter sees the zoo transform into a magical Christmas park with the trees throughout the park creating a twinkling and shimmering wonderland. At its heart is Father Christmas himself. Call in and see him at his festive home to bring your Christmas spirit come alive. lyckseledjurpark.se

Photography: Johan Gunséus

Beautiful Klabböle provides tranquility and energy

Klabböle is situated a few kilometres west of Umeå on the south bank of the Ume River. From Umeå, it is within cycling distance or, for those with more time to spare, walking distance. The road there is an experience in itself and, once there, the area is beautiful, tranquil and a popular destination for day trippers. While you’re there, Umeå Energicentrum is well worth a visit, especially for families with children. In addition to guided tours of the old power plant museum, there is also an adventure playground and an experiment workshop to investigate – and, naturally, somewhere to get a snack. Umeå Energicentrum is open from mid-June until mid-August and entry is free. Learn more at Umeå Energi’s website. [AG]

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UNIQUE ACCOMODATIONS

Unique Accomodations

Västerbotten stretches from the mountains to the coast and offers a wealth of unique accommodation alternatives.

Grand hotels and small hotels with a cosy atmosphere, wilderness camps, the bird’s nest, Sami huts, lighthouses and pilot’s cottages, these are just some examples to be discovered and enjoyed!

Tjarn – time for reflection Photography: Tjarn.se

Some 40 minutes drive south of Umeå, on the beautiful Lögde River, we find Tjarn, a well-preserved nineteenth-century home framed by mountains, pasture and woodland. One could describe this as just another conference venue to visit but, as the winner of the Umeå Region Tourist Prize and nominations for the Grand Tourism Prize as well as the Nordic’s most inspiring meeting environment, we can but understand that we find ourselves somewhere a little different. For this is a secluded and quite different meeting place where it is difficult, if not impossible, not to find peace. With its kerosene lamps,

wood-fired stoves, outhouse and coffee decoction, one is transported back in time as the spirit is rocked to tranquility in an old rocking chair or hammock.

Bengt-Erik Hesse, the man behind both the renovation of the farm and its current incarnation, explains that the focus is on creating environmentally-friendly, relaxing social activities for individuals or groups, such as wood-fired saunas combined with river bathing, rowboat trips and electric-powered rafts for meetings and experiences, guided tours to forage for berries and mushrooms, fishing, handicraft, storytelling, and just simply relaxation … [AG]

Lotshuset Järnäsklubb is located 50 km south of Umeå, an old fishing village as far out on the Västerbotten coast as its possible to reach. Here you find one of Västerbottens best kept secrets, a hidden gem, Lotshuset Gästhem with its three rooms with bontiful views over the islets, outcrops and sea.

Lydig, Strömmer and Molin & Häggström, these are the names of the three beautifully decorated rooms at Lotshuset. The names have been taken from three old seafaring families, pilots whose descendants remain in the area but who no longer guide lost vessels through the waters off of the headland. The old pilot’s station was closed down in the 1960s, after which the building was administered by the Swedish Maritime Administration, who rented it out as a holiday home to retired military officers.

Since 2014, when Paula Quiñones returned with her husband to his mother´s home of Nordmaling and

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opened the pilot’s station as a bed and breakfast, anyone at all has the opportunity to spend the night in the old Lotshuset. Nowadays it's only possible to book the entire house.

– If we had known then what we were getting ourselves into, perhaps we would have waited until the summer of 2015 to open. However, both the pressure and curiosity were great from the beginning, so we worked our fingers to the bone day and night and managed to open for what turned out to be the beautiful summer of 2014. Since then, its been business as usual, explains Paula.

Lotshuset has been nominated and awarded prizes on a number of occasions and in summer 2015 won the prestigious Pillow of the Year Award, voted for by the guests themselves.

– One couldn’t hope for a better recognition of what we’re doing,” says Paula Quiñones, with a grin covering her entire face. Her pride in a job well done is unmissable. [AG]

Photography: Andreas Nilsson

– unbroken seaview

UNIQUE ACCOMODATIONS

Granö Beckasin – a visit to remember

Photography: Patrick Trägårdh

Just think; living like a bird, high in the tree tops with a spectacular view over grandiose scenery.

This is now possible at Granö Beckasin which has hotel rooms, Bird Nests, safely built into strong hillside pine trees, all with a magical view of the river.

At Granö Beckasin there is the excellent Ekohotellet offering several refurbished cabins. There are also amazing campsites, all with views of the Umeälven river.

There are plenty of things for you to see and do in Granö Beckasin. Bike riding, canoe hire,

walking with huskies, moose safaris, golf and trail hikes. Tents, sleeping bags and other equipment you will need to take with you are available for hire and you can also buy a box of provisions.

Sjungaregården’s cultural centre (located near Granö -Beckasin) hosts new arts and crafts exhibitions every Saturday and other cultural events throughout the summer. Superb homemade snacks and crispy waffles are served in the beautiful old Västerbotten farmstead. granobeckasin.com

tional Swedish home cooking of the highest order and a fantastic spa treatment programme. It is easy to reach, too, situated in Åmliden, just outside Norsjö. Between the coast and the mountains, the wilderness of Västerbotten is where you can listen to the silence - a rare luxury indeed! kallan-hotell.se

Photography: Ted Logardt

HOTELL GAMLA FÄNGELSET Hotell Gamla Fängelset (Old prison) offers accommodation in a unique and historic building from 1861, which was the Västerbotten County Prison until 1981.The building is Umeå's oldest stone house and one of the few that survived the great fire of 1888, today a building memorial and carefully renovated to maintain the prison's original atmosphere. hotellgf.se

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LÖVÅNGER KYRKSTAD – HOSTEL AND CAMPING (The picture) Stay in a wood-built cottage in the church village in a historical and calm environment. The cottages, from the 18th century are renovated with good standards but all cottages have kept their old-fashioned charm. lovangerkyrkstad.se STENMARKS LANTBOENDE House for rent in the countryside, on a small farm close to the meadows and the forest. Up to 8 persons can stay in this house, with view over the lake and access to boat, canoe and bridge. On the farm also lives sheep and lambs, a dog used for moosehunting in the autumn, a rabbit, rooster and his hen and the cat with her kittens.

THE LIGHT HOUSE, BJURÖKLUBB On the very edge of the Swedish mainland is Bjuröklubb. An impressive nature reserve which hosts a wide varity of flora and spectacular views. Make the old light house your homebase for your corporate meeting. Let the northern wasteland trigger new ways of thinking. bjuroklubb.se KÄLLAN HOTELL SPA AND KONFERENS Tranquility, unequalled views over the forests of Västerbotten, tradi-

ELITE HOTEL MIMER In “Mimerskolan”, an old and venerable academic establishment, Elite Hotels of Sweden has created a fantastic 4-star hotel that has carefully preserved the feel of a bygone era. Walking up the red carpet that leads into the magnificent lobby, you and time stand momentarily still as history catches up and draws you into an entirely unique setting, a flamboyant and warm interior in the heart of central Umeå. elite.se STORA HOTELLET Stora Hotellet is a completely renovated iconic hotel established in 1895. The hotel is located next to the town hall and integrated with Väven, the city's new cultural arena. The hotel has been fully redeveloped around the modern and diverse travellers lifestyle and requirements. The hotel's restaurant, cocktail bar and lounge is destined to become the city's vibrant meeting point for hotel guests and local residents. storahotelletumea.se VILHELMINA KYRKSTAD, HOSTEL Vilhelmina Kyrkstad dates from a vanished age. This picturesque area is also home to the local heritage museum, craft house, Sami gallery art studio and grocer’s. The hostel is situated in a number of small, homely cottages that retain their nineteenth-century ambiance, most with open fireplaces and Vilhelmina wallpaper. stf.se VIKA – THE WILDERNESS CAMP BY THE VINDEL RIVER The Wilderness Camp is beautifully situated by the Vindel River and has been given the name Vikheden, or Vika for short, and is located right by a 4,000-year-old system of trapping pits for elk hunting. All buildings have been built to fit the environment, and with a plan to make everything as close to nature as possible. forsknackarna.se

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WINTER INSPIRATION

Winterland WE’RE ALL BEST FRIENDS

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY: THEA HOLMQVIST

The newly fallen snow dampens the sound of 56 energetic paws (closely followed by two sleds) pounding across it. Driving the leading sled is Morgan Liljemark who, with his wife, Lina, runs Wild Lapland. This outdoor adventure company uses the forest as its office, the wide lake as its arena and the 51 dedicated Alaskan huskies as the workforce.

It is Wednesday, just past 10 o’clock. Beside Lake Ruskträsket the air, chilled to -17°C, stings the cheeks and the sun seems to

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balance on the horizon. It always does in January when, for a few minutes, its rays can be easily discerned moving across the landscape.

The silhouettes of two dog sleds can be picked out in the distant mist. For Morgan, his voluntary Dutch helper Kitty and the 14 dogs, the trip is the high point of the day.

– The dogs are our best friends and we want to share this relationship with our visitors, he says. That is why we cater mostly for small groups because it allows people to really participate in everything we do, such as helping to attach the dogs to the sled at the start as well as gliding through the snowy landscape.

– The most important thing for us is that the guest gets a great experience. We want to maintain the personal and genuine touch

WINTER INSPIRATION

and really have good conversations with them. Not just say hello! Lina adds.

– That personal attention is maintained and remains paramount, no matter whether it’s a short day trip or longer overnight tour into the wilderness.

– Guests regularly thank them at the end of a trip but Morgan says they should be thanking guests.

– Without them we would not be able to do what we love doing most, he grins.

– It’s nice to give something back.

The group has stopped for a break.

Not to give the dogs a rest, mind you, they can run many more miles. It is this writer’s fault, wanting to take in

the breathtaking surroundings. The dogs look back, irritated and clearly wondering what is holding them up.

Morgan again: –It is not about the speed or exhilaration. It is about seeing the dogs doing what they long for more than anything - to run. And to be able to do it in this fantastic environment.

The sled is off again and the silhouettes are soon swallowed up by the thick forest. Within a couple of months the ice will be replaced by water. But Wild Lapland will be ready. For Morgan and Lina, its not only about sleds but also about canoeing, hunting, walking and fishing. wildlapland.se

Photo: auroraborealis.nu

MORE WINTER ...

AURORA BOREALIS Overnight stays under the northern lights and moon light. Get close to the magic of the northern lights; hear it crackle and watch it dance. Aurora Borealis will make it happen. They are an experience company that provides experiences for your senses. They are based in Ekorrsele near to the Vindel River, which runs through large parts of Västerbotten.

ALPINE SKIING The mountains of Västerbotten are among the very best in Sweden. Our mountains are characterised by vast, unspoiled expanses of child-friendly, accessible high alpine terrain with fantastic off-piste skiing. That snow guarantees are among the best in the country and that resorts are usually among the first to open for the season hardly makes matters worse. With major resorts Borgafjäll, Hemavan Tärnaby and Kittelfjäll at the forefront, you will find a broad variation of on-piste skiing, as well as a wide range of activities and services.

DEEP SNOW OR TRAIL? Västerbotten is a paradise for snowmobile adventures.

Whether on coastal sea ice or mountain powder dens, you can trust that conditions will be awesome. Here, there are thousands of kilometres of trails to follow.

And naturally, unimagined opportunities for cutting loose. Irrespective of which you choose, after a full day on a snowmobile you’ll feel it in your body, we promise.

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The “Västerbotten Experience” in Lapland

When you long for the outdoors and soft adventures in the Swedish nature. When history and culture draws your curiosity. When you want to enjoy our tranquillity and fresh air. Welcome to Västerbotten, from our coastline to our fjälls, the Västerbotten experience awaits you. #Northernlights #Midnightsun #culture #water #forests #fjell #snow #locals #sami #localingredients #gastronomy visitvasterbotten.se

#vasterbottenexperience #visitvasterbotten #visitvasterbotteninlapland

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