FOOD & BEVERAGE
Cooking Sous-vide by Jordan Cameron
Jordan Cameron Sous Chef 403-287-4150 jcameron@glencoe.org
S
ous-vide (French for under vacuum) has become a common term on many menus and may not be familiar to most people. Although the technique has been used in professional kitchens since the 70s, it has really gained popularity in the last decade and is becoming more accessible for use by the home cook. In general, Sous-vide refers to food that is packed in a vacuum bag or tightly plastic wrapped and cooked in a temperature controlled water bath. The most common way of controlling the temperature is with an immersion circulator. Immersion circulators were initially designed for laboratory work where precise temperature control was needed, up to 1/10°C. Cooks began buying
Cooking a whole egg in a water bath for 30 minutes provides a vivid illustration of the potential of Sous-vide. Egg yolks and whites contain many different types of protein and each one sets at a slightly different temperature. Changing the water temperature by a single degree can significantly alter the texture of the egg. A
A: At 63ºC an egg has a just set, with a nearly translucent white and runny yolk.
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B
B: B y 65ºC the yolk, while translucent, is fully set and will hold its shape when cut.
these circulators for their own experiments and started to achieve results that weren’t possible with conventional kitchen equipment. Sous-vide also offers advantages for cooking tougher cuts of meat at a much lower and slower temperature than a typical braise. 24 and 48-hour cooking times are not uncommon for lamb shanks or beef short ribs. 60°C is hot enough to break down the connective tissue that makes these cuts tough and yet low enough to avoid forcing moisture out of the meat and making it taste dry. It’s possible to cook a short rib for two days and still serve it at medium! Because there is no vapour or aroma escaping during the cooking process, all the flavour stays in the food. Garden fresh vegetables, such as carrots, cooked with just a bit of butter or olive oil and salt will take on an incredibly intense flavour. It's also possible to hold a piece of cooked meat or fish at the proper doneness, until it is needed, for 30 minutes or more. The food will stay hot and not overcook. Like any other technique or piece of equipment there are drawbacks, particularly if it’s used improperly. For the avid foodie, cooking Sous-vide can feel sterile or clinical. It clearly takes more skill to grill a steak to medium rare than to set a thermostat to 54°C and drop in a bag. The lack of aroma, while advantageous in regards to flavour, may cause your guests to wonder if you have even started dinner yet. Green vegetables typically don’t fare well with slow cooking and will turn bitter and olive coloured. It is also important to make sure the food is handled safely as some bacteria thrive in the oxygen deprived environment Sous-vide creates. Only pristinely fresh ingredients should be used and cooking for more than an hour below 60°C is not recommended. Once the food is cooked, it should be used immediately or chilled in ice water and stored under refrigeration. In the last few years, many different equipment options have become available to the home cook. Some of the most popular include the Anova Precision Cooker ($440, amazon. ca), Polyscience Creative Series Immersion Circulator ($936, amazon.ca) and the Sous-vide Supreme Water Oven ($470, amazon.ca). They can be used with any pot or heatproof plastic container and will effectively heat 10-20 litres of water. Small vacuum sealers are now available almost anywhere that kitchen appliances are sold. One of the barriers to home cooks experimenting with Sous-vide is the initial investment required. While the cost of precision cookers can be quite steep, there are ways to mimic the technique using items you would find in most home kitchens.
