DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020 EDITION by Globelite Travel Marketing Inc

TRAVEL AND LIFESTYLE

WINTER 2019/2020

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DS TABLE OF CONTENTS >>

VOLUME 24, ISSUE NO. 6

JUDI SCHARF

DANCE ME ON THE DANUBE Drift along the Danube with Crystal River Cruises. BY JUDI SCHARF

THE ROADS TO WELLNESS Plan a healthy getaway at any of these Québecbased venues. BY LAURA BYRNE PAQUET

NATURE AT ITS FINEST Spend blissful days on the islands of Sanibel and Captiva. BY BRUCE SACH

A FOOD-LOVER’S FANTASY Savour culinary delights in beautiful surroundings in the Florida Keys. BY STEVE WINSTON

DELIGHTS FOR THE ENTIRE FAMILY Discover a variety of attractions in Central Florida’s Polk County. BY STEVE WINSTON

NORDIK SPA-NATURE

COVER: Designed to glorify the Habsburg Empire, the Karlskirche, or St. Charles Church, is one of the greatest buildings in Vienna, Austria. Graphia/Shutterstock.com

6 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

A WORLD OF EXCITING ADVENTURES From its historical fishing villages and downhome cookin’ to its world-famous beaches and virgin wilderness, Northwest Florida never disappoints.

THE BEACHES OF FORT MYERS & SANIBEL

BY STEVE WINSTON

5 WAYS TO SEE ST. AUGUSTINE DURING NIGHTS OF LIGHTS Be dazzled by St. Augustine’s annual Nights of Lights festival. BY VANESSA CACERES

FLORIDA’S NATURAL SIDE Jackson County exudes the quiet Southern charm of Old Florida. BY STEVE WINSTON

ESCAPE THE CANADIAN COLD Check out these warmer U.S. destinations. BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS

TRAVEL SLEUTH

NATURE VIVE

Add a little whimsy to your travel plans. BY JANE STOKES

CELEBRITY TRAVEL CORNER A conversation with Gino Vannelli. BY CHRIS RYALL

EXPLORING PANAMA Venture beyond the city lights of Panama City into a world of wonders. BY STEVE GILLICK

TRAVEL GALLERY News you can use. BY CYNTHIA DAVID

STEVE GILLICK

WINTER 2019/2020 DREAMSCAPES 7

ESSENTIAL GUIDES

FOR YOUR VACATION GETAWAY Travel Guide to California CaliforniaTravelGuide.travel

Travel Guide to Florida FloridaTravelGuide.travel

Travel Guide to Canada CanadaTravelGuides.ca

DREAMSCAPES TRAVEL AND LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE is published by Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. Visit dreamscapes.ca to view this issue of our magazine in its entirety and to link easily to editorials, advertisers, contest information, as well as previous issues. LETTERS TO THE EDITOR We’d like to hear from you. Readers are always encouraged to submit emails to editor@dreamscapes.ca. PUBLISHING Joseph P. Turkel

PUBLISHER ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

EDITOR EXECUTIVE EDITOR COPY EDITOR EDITOR-AT-LARGE CONTRIBUTING EDITORS ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION MANAGER DIRECTOR OF IT

ENJOY INSIGHTFUL WRITING, BRILLIANT PHOTOGRAPHY, AND DETAILED INFORMATION ON TRAVEL TO THESE PREMIER DESTINATIONS.

CONTROLLER PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER

Valerie Saunders Donna S. Vieira Judi Scharf Anne Champagne Jane Stokes Cynthia David Ilona Kauremszky Mark Tzerelshtein Julia Wall Mike State Gloria Mungo Joseph P. Turkel

CONTRIBUTORS

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8 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

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DANCE ME ON

THE DANUBE

MY HUSBAND AND I DISEMBARK OUR FLIGHT FROM TORONTO TO VIENNA, A TOUCH WEARY AND BLEARY-EYED, WHEN WE SPOT OUR CRYSTAL RIVER CRUISE REPRESENTATIVE; SHE TAKES CARE OF EVERYTHING AND PRESTO, WHISKS US AWAY TO A COMFY BUS, EN ROUTE TO THE DANUBE RIVER AND THE DOCKED CRYSTAL RAVEL.

By Judi Scharf

10 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

nd so unfolds a well-choreo-

white and greenish tones along with con-

graphed, seamless entry. Alena,

temporary furnishings create a modern,

the cruise director, welcomes us

crisp ambiance. Facing us is the focal point,

in the lounge and in minutes she has

the grand ﬂoor-to-ceiling window taking

photos and our ID cards ready. As we are

up almost the entire wall. We’ve never seen

ushered into our cabin, we see the luggage

anything like this before. The large upper

already placed atop our bed. One glance

glass piece opens to diﬀerent positions and

about and I begin to feel light and easy. The

can slide down beside the lower glass base

suite is airy, spacious and inviting. Grey,

thereby forming a kind of “balcony.”

We happily note there’s ample room to

ticular voyage there are 70 staﬀ and 80 pas-

walk about so we won’t clumsily be

sengers! (With 55 cabins, the total capacity

bumping into each other. We even have a

is 106 passengers.) Friendly, attentive

small walk-in closet for storage! The king-

service that goes above and beyond is

size bed looks alluring with its cosy duvet

simply the norm here. This remarkable care

and luxurious linens. But the bathroom in

and attention to detail move all along,

soft grey and white truly delights us; a

smoothly and graciously in a kind of steady

double vanity and glassed-in shower are

background chorus.

welcome treats.

On board, we simply have no concerns.

I soon realize I’m feeling at home and

Everything is already considered and done

relaxed. My walk has a deﬁnite bounce in its

with us in mind. Most of the excursions, the

steps as we proceed to explore the boat itself.

wines and liquor, gratuities, transfers to and

OPPOSITE: Sailing through the Iron Gates, a series of four gorges between Romania and Serbia, is breathtaking. BELOW: Flanked by elegant, older buildings, Budapest streets on the Pest side are lively and teeming with pedestrians. Judi Scharf

The Crystal Ravel resembles an elongated, thin barge, with a white and glass, sleek exterior. Amazingly within, there’s space for a workout room, spa, launderette, indoor pool, lounge and restaurants. Light spills in everywhere from the large windows. Like a magnet we are drawn outdoors where we discover what will become our favourite space, the Vista Deck. Feeling like our own personal deck, many seating areas sport comfortable couches, chairs, lounges and tables that seem to be waiting for us, blankets at hand for chillier evenings. Two large canopied areas and umbrellas provide much-welcomed shade. The atmosphere is certainly ultra-luxurious, but also unpretentious. Amid the modern, elegant public spaces the prescribed “smart casual” dress lends a friendly, relaxed tone. REMARKABLE CARE We quickly recognize the outstanding feature is the superb service. The waiters are mature, of Eastern European descent and adept at anticipating and fulﬁlling our needs before we even perceive them. Everyone addresses us by our names. We are impressed to encounter executive chef Chris Albersdorfer nightly as he frequents the tables in the Waterside Restaurant checking on the dining experiences. And all passengers are thoroughly indulged in their own suites, serviced by both a cabin steward and a personal butler! On this par-

WINTER 2019/2020 DREAMSCAPES 11

from the airport, and meals are all included.

lesser-known route that promises new dis-

During the Waterside Restaurant’s free-ﬂow

coveries. Even Vienna, a city we’ve visited

seating, ever-changing breakfast and lunch

previously, presents an unexpected but

buﬀets that incorporate local cuisine and

unique experience. On a Crystal tour,

fresh ingredients are always enticing; full-

Vienna’s Jewish Heritage, we are privileged

course dinners elegantly served between 7

to visit the artist, Arik Brauer’s home and

and 9 p.m. prove to be outstanding, night

gallery where his granddaughter meets us,

after night. The Bistro Ravel oﬀers light fare,

recounts Arik’s story and shares and inter-

desserts and ice cream during the day but

prets his paintings with us. Her respect

most nights (reservations required) it pres-

and love for her grandfather is almost pal-

ents an incredible tasting-menu dinner that

pable. Arik Brauer, a child Holocaust

we so love we return to savour it again.

survivor who incredibly remained in Vienna throughout the war, is today in his

LESSER-KNOWN ROUTE BELOW: The Parliament Buildings of Budapest look almost magical, all lit up at night. Judi Scharf OPPOSITE: The modern, airy suite’s focal point is the large window; the upper piece opens to diﬀerent positions and can slide down beside the base piece forming a kind of balcony. Crystal Cruises

12 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

90s, and stills paints daily!

Our voyage begins in Vienna, Austria,

We are surprised to learn that Esztergom

sailing along the Danube south to Belgrade

was actually the ﬁrst Hungarian capital, the

and back to Vienna, stopping in Hungary,

seat of the early kings and that nearby

Croatia, Serbia and Slovakia. For us it is a

Visegrad was where royalty resided in the

summers. Esztergom is a charming town on

concert by the local music students; the

the Danube. Today it is renowned as the

spirit of Croatia shines through.

location of the centre of the Hungarian Catholic Church. The imposing beautifully

SUBLIME SAILINGS

domed Cathedral of Our Lady of Assump-

Back on the Crystal Ravel, relaxing on deck

tion (also known as the Basilica) contains

is simply heavenly. As we settle into our

an inspiring High Altarpiece, the largest of

lounges, we feel the caressing breezes and

its kind painted on a single canvas. We also

the warming sun while scenes dance by on

marvel at the old (AD 1506–1519) Bakócz

both sides of the river to the boat’s gliding

Chapel with its intricately carved wood; this

rhythm. We think to ourselves, what a won-

chapel was painstakingly taken apart and

derful, carefree way to travel! We watch the

numbered so it could be perfectly rebuilt

ever-shifting panoramas and never have to

and incorporated into the Basilica.

pack or unpack as we visit historical cities

As the boat approaches Vukovar, Croatia, we are moved by the sombre bullet-riddled

in diﬀerent countries; we simply walk in once the boat docks.

watch tower and the large, simple white

One sun-ﬁlled day we sail to the Iron

cross emerging along the water’s edge.

Gates, a series of four gorges between

Vukovar, like so many cities along the

Romania on one side and Serbia on the

Danube, has known countless wars,

other. The scenery is breathtaking; lush,

destruction and rebuilding throughout its

treed mountains running down to the river.

history. As recently as 1991, when Vukovar was besieged after the breakup of

TUMULTUOUS PAST

Yugoslavia, death and devastation crippled

Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, has known

the city. But today the war scars are healing

wars and decimation in its turbulent his-

and people are out enjoying the Old Town,

tory; it’s been destroyed 44 times and been

which is gradually being restored. In Eltz

the capital of ﬁve diﬀerent states. The vast

Palace we visit the fascinating Municipal

Kalemegdan Fortress complex ﬁgured into

Museum and are also treated to a lovely

that stormy past. There are vibrant areas in

TOP: Modern, inviting and airy, the Waterside Restaurant oﬀers enticing breakfast and lunch buﬀets as well as elegantly served, scrumptious dinners nightly. CENTRE: This is but a small section of Novi Sad’s bustling and lively market. BOTTOM: Bratislava’s Old Town with its cobblestoned streets, old architecture and many squares is a delight to explore on foot. Judi Scharf

St. Mary’s, the bustling, large market area, and the many interesting streets. Novi Sad’s past is also ﬁlled with periods of destruction and renewal. Coming from peaceful Canada it’s so diﬃcult to imagine the hardships of war and its aftermath being repeated; we are touched by the people’s courage and determination. Budapest, Hungary’s capital, is an exquisite city we’ve visited before. This time we encounter a new “dark” side when we depart Budapest at night. Atop Buda’s hills, the grand, old palaces and buildings are lit and aglow while the lower Pest side’s Parliament Buildings, Chain Bridge and other structures gleam and twinkle casting a dreamlike spell. We’re captivated in a kind of slow dance, locked in place on the deck, mesmerized the city to explore from Bohemian artist quarters to classy boutiques and shops. But for us

Daytime ﬁnds us in Bratislava, Slovakia’s

the highlight is the evening concert we attend

capital, where we love walking about. The

of a Serbian band that combines old, tradi-

many squares in the Old Town are brim-

tional folk music with a modern twist and

ming with people and we notice lots of

soon enough the audience is on its feet, clap-

children playing and running. It strikes us

ping enthusiastically. To top oﬀ the evening,

that we hear more children’s laughter here

returning to the Crystal Ravel we are greeted

than we have anywhere else. We chance on

by wafting aromas. We can’t resist the mouth-

a wine-tasting festival being held; bands,

watering canapes of chicken schnitzel and

local vendors, wines and food enhance the

potato salad, graved lox with mustard and dill

warm, convivial mood.

sauce, eggs and caviar, goulash soup and mini skewers of fruit that await us.

And too soon it seems we return to our starting and now ending point, Vienna. An

Serbia’s second largest city, Novi Sad, the

evening at the Opera House attending a

“new garden” was aided by the Austrian

Mozart concert seems a ﬁtting closing to

Empire

and

our Danube cruise. The music and

craftsmen here; a kind of “cultural ﬂow-

entrancing memories dance in our minds

ering” ensued earning Novi Sad the moniker

and vividly linger on.

who

sent

intellectuals

of a “Serbian Athens.” We soak in the lively environment as we tour this lovely city to experience the Old Town’s vivid architecture; Freedom Square ﬂanked by City Hall and the Roman Catholic Parish Church of

14 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

until the last enchanting views slip away.

TRAVEL PLANNER For more information on Crystal River Cruises, visit crystalcruises.com.

THE ROADS TO

WELLNESS

By Laura Byrne Paquet

THE AUFGUSS RITUAL AT NORDIK SPA-NATURE IN CHELSEA, QUÉBEC, WAS ONE OF THOSE RARE SPA EXPERIENCES THAT ALMOST DEFIES DESCRIPTION.

fter meandering through one of the spa’s thermal circuits—sweating in a sauna, gasping in a cold shower,

then unwinding in a chair—I heard the soft gong that alerts guests that another Aufguss ceremony was about to begin. Like medieval pilgrims in flip-flops and white robes, guests came from all points of the sprawling property to congregate on benches arranged along three sides of the Finlandia sauna. A Nordik staffer named Laura explained she would be using snowballs infused with essential oils during the ritual. The sauna doors closed, pop music began to play and Laura took a large snowball from a wooden bucket and placed it on a bed of hot stones. As the crystals sizzled, she began an energetic dance, snapping a white towel above her head to distribute waves of peppermint scent. As the 15-minute performance continued, the scent changed to mango, the temperature rose and my eyes drifted closed. At some point, Laura added a second towel and danced even faster. I could barely

16 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

move, so I had to admire her energy. Suddenly, it was done, and I wasn’t the only one blinking dazedly in the fog. Nordik says the ritual is rooted in German traditions. My knowledge of European towel-waving ceremonies is limited, so I don’t know how much was tradition and how much was modern Canadian invention, but I can say that it was hypnotically relaxing—a description that could apply to the entire Nordik property. Set among rocky outcrops on a forested ridge overlooking the Ottawa Valley (you can see Parliament Hill on a clear day), it oﬀers restaurants, a beer garden, treatment rooms, hammocks, hot tubs and a dimly lit saltwater ﬂoatation pool called Källa that made me feel like an extra in Cocoon. Nordik is among the best places to unwind in the Outaouais region of West Québec, but it’s far from the only one. The spa is next to Gatineau Park, a 361-square-

MARVELLOUS MONTEBELLO

kilometre wilderness enclave that offers

In Montebello, about 80 minutes east of

everything from historical sites to back-

Chelsea, Kenauk Nature oﬀers travellers

country camping. On a day trip, try the

more ways to enjoy the outdoors. On a

2.5-kilometre hiking trail around Pink

recent fall day, the only human sounds on

Lake. Despite its name, the lake is actually

the preserve’s Whiteﬁsh Lake were the faint

a gorgeous blue-green on sunny days, due

splashes of our kayak paddles. Low grey

to algae.

clouds seemed to snag on the tips of the sur-

OPPOSITE: Bota Bota in downtown Montréal is perfect for a mother/daughter getaway. Bota Bota ABOVE: Situated on a forested ridge overlooking the Ottawa Valley, Nordik Spa-Nature is located in Chelsea, Québec. Nordik Spa-Nature

WINTER 2019/2020 DREAMSCAPES 17

LEFT: Hike the 2.5-kilometre hiking trail around Pink Lake in Gatineau Park. Laura Byrne Paquet BELOW: Snowshoe along groomed trails at Kenauk Nature. Kenauk OPPOSITE: A variety of outdoor winter activities await guests at the Fairmont Le Château Montebello resort. Fairmont Le Château Montebello

rounding spruces, and the occasional hoot

runs some recreational programs in the pre-

of a loon echoed across the water. My cell

serve, such as an oﬀ-road Land Rover

phone screen read “no service.” It felt as

experience. The enormous log hotel also has

though we were light years from any human

extensive sports facilities on its own prop-

habitation, but we were within sight of a

erty, including hiking trails, an indoor pool

luxurious cottage and less than half an hour

and a curling rink. After a day of knocking

from a grand resort.

yourself out, you can unwind with a drink

Kenauk Nature encompasses 263 square

beside the lobby’s massive, six-sided stone

kilometres, including some 60 lakes. In 1929,

ﬁreplace. The hotel recently completed a

it became a private wilderness playground

$17.5-million renovation project that fresh-

for members of the posh Seigniory Club,

ened the decor while retaining much of the

which evolved into today’s Fairmont Le

property’s rustic charm.

Château Montebello resort. In 2015, Kenauk’s new owners—who bought the property from

URBANE MONTRÉAL

Fairmont—began developing additional

For those who want a healthy vacation with

amenities, such as a 14.6-metre climbing

big-city frills, Montréal is less than two

wall, more cottages and a ﬂoating sauna.

hours east of Montebello.

Fairmont Le Château Montebello still

Get your bearings by hopping on a bike

with Spade & Palacio Tours. Company cofounder Danny Pavlopoulos delights in showing visitors corners of the city that visitors seldom see. These include ruelles vertes—back alleys that have been turned into lush gardens tended by neighbours. Pavlopoulos also took our group to a stand called Les Filles Fattoush at the Jean Talon Market, where we picked up an impromptu picnic of Syrian specialties such as hummus, pitas and mtabal (a dip of roasted eggplant, tahini, olive oil and garlic). Spade & Palacio also oﬀers city walking tours throughout the year. From spring through fall, you can try stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) in the St. Lawrence River with KSF Montréal. I was a bit nervous about the whole idea, due to fear of falling into the chilly waters. However, my worries were misplaced. When we arrived at KSF’s location in suburban LaSalle, we put on rental wetsuits, which

TRAVEL PLANNER If you plan a trip to the Outaouais region between January 31 and February 17, be sure to check out Winterlude, Ottawa’s unique winter celebration. For more information, visit: Tourisme Montréal: mtl.org/en Tourisme Outaouais: tourismeoutaouais.com Bota Bota: botabota.ca/en Fairmont Le Château Montebello: fairmont.com/montebello Kenauk Nature: kenauk.com Nordik Spa-Nature: lenordik.com/en Spade & Palacio Tours: spadeandpalacio.com Winterlude: ottawatourism.ca/events/Winterlude

kept us all quite warm. And even though I was indeed the first of my group to tumble into the water—while getting onto the board from the dock—I managed to haul myself back aboard with some patient guidance from our instructor. During our time on the river, everyone in our group pitched into the river at least once. But within an hour, we were so confident on the wide boards that we even tethered to anchors and tried a bit of basic SUP yoga. Despite my worries, I was hooked—it was a marvellous core workout. To ease any workout-related aches and pains, you could try the thermal circuit at Bota Bota, a spa on a converted ferry/showboat permanently moored in the St. Lawrence River downtown. Bota Bota, which overlooks Moshe Safdie’s landmark Habitat housing complex and the 19th-century buildings of Old Montréal, has an utterly different vibe from rural Nordik. However, it offers the same escape from the ordinary. And isn’t that the goal of any healthy getaway?

WINTER 2019/2020 DREAMSCAPES 19

A Special Feature Section

From old-world charm to flavourful dining, Florida sets the stage for a host of amazing experiences.

PHOTO: St. Augustine, Ponte Vedra & The Beaches VCB

NATURE at its finest BY BRUCE SACH

ust a short drive over the causeway

hectare island where the ancient, white,

from Fort Myers, Sanibel Island is sur-

wooden water tower is home to a local

rounded by the warm waters of the Gulf

osprey couple. Much to our delight, we also

of Mexico. Here, visitors begin bliss-ﬁlled

spotted gopher tortoises near their burrows

days searching for the ultimate seashell

at the base of the water tower.

souvenir the tides have deposited on the

Returning to Captiva Island, our captain

island’s sun-kissed shores and end their

crossed the shallow Pine Island Sound.

evenings watching spectacular sunsets and

Along the way, legions of dolphins accom-

stargazing. It’s all part of Mother Nature’s

panied us as if to say goodbye. Little did they

endless bounty that awaits you.

quieter communities on Sanibel. “We’ve seen

know we have planned many more return

Birding is spectacular on Sanibel, which

it all—playful dolphins, lumbering manatees

visits to these tranquil Gulf coast gems.

is regularly frequented by pelicans, sand-

and seabirds dive-bombing into the Gulf

pipers and ospreys. At the J.N. “Ding”

waters. Sometimes it appears as if the ﬁsh are

Darling National Wildlife Refuge, we

trying to ﬂy and the birds are trying to swim!”

observed migratory birds on a sandbar in

Visitors to Sanibel Island inevitably

the estuary leading into the Gulf of Mexico

make their way to its sister island, Cap-

and Pine Island Sound. Among them were

tiva. Here, as on Sanibel, visitors collect

double-crested cormorants, great blue

shells, adopting the Captiva Crouch to

herons, roseate spoonbills, egrets, white

scoop up the precious collectibles that

ibis and a large ﬂock of white pelicans.

gather on the western-facing Gulf-side

Ottawa resident Robin Fyfe has witnessed

shores of the island.

even more incredible activities near his vaca-

From Captiva Island, we embarked on a

tion home on Bowman’s Beach, one of the

one-hour cruise to Cabbage Key, a tiny 40-

22 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

TRAVEL PLANNER

Discover the wondrous beauty of The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel at FortMyers-Sanibel.com. TOP: Natural beauty awaits you on Sanibel Island and the surrounding cays. ABOVE: Roseate spoonbills can be seen on Sanibel Island year-round. The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel

A food-lover’s

FANTASY

BY STEVE WINSTON

he Florida Keys are a foodie magnet

serve seafood that was in the water only an

(you’re only 160 kilometres from Cuba),

and with good reason. Here, you

hour before as well as good ethnic dishes.

where the ﬂavours are outstanding.

can ﬁnd a colourful, tropical culi-

Lorelei Restaurant & Cabana Bar offers

nary vibe with interesting local specialties

waterfront dining, live music, breath-

KEY WEST

and beautiful surroundings in which to

taking sunsets and delights such as

Key West restaurants range from conti-

enjoy them.

smoked fish dip or conch fritters. Islam-

nental to casual. Just minutes from Key

Ubiquitous to the islands is a shellﬁsh

orada also boasts Pierre’s, an elegant

West, Bobalu’s Southern Café is a cool

called conch (“konk”). Similar to calamari in

Victorian vision on the beach with inter-

culinary experience, featuring American

texture, it bursts with ﬂavour and can be

national specialties.

comfort food and seafood in a very funky, aquatic-themed atmosphere. The water-

served on the shell as conch steak and fritters or in salads and soups. Another local

MARATHON

front Conch Republic Seafood Company

favourite is the Key lime, found in everything

Well-known for its conch fritters, Keys Fish-

boasts its seafood is “from our boats to your

from pies to salad dressings and drinks.

eries is one of those classic open-air ﬁsh

table.” And that’s clearly obvious in such

houses overlooking the water. The Butterﬂy

unique specialties as hogﬁsh.

KEY LARGO

Café at the Tranquility Bay Beach House

Renowned for the “best Key lime pie in

Resort, on the other hand, uses local

Florida,” the Fish House has been a Keys

seafood and produce to oﬀer what it calls

favourite since 1982 and has the awards to

“tropical world cuisine”—a collection of

prove it. Local Florida lobster and stone crab

eclectic dishes found along the world’s

are also great here and the atmosphere is

coastlines.

Restaurant at Baker’s Cay Resort highlights

LOWER KEYS

Keys seafood along with just-picked fruit

Square Grouper Bar & Grill is a Lower Keys

and herbs from its own gardens.

landmark, known for its artsy ambiance, homemade desserts and seafood specialties

ISLAMORADA

such

Restaurants on Islamorada prepare and

Cuban/Caribbean fare, try Coco’s Kitchen

24 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

ﬁsh

TRAVEL PLANNER

Plan your Florida Keys getaway at ﬂa-keys.com.

TOP LEFT: Dine at the stunning Calusa Restaurant at Baker’s Cay Resort on Key Largo. Baker’s Cay Resort TOP RIGHT: The Florida Keys are known for delicious, fresh seafood selections. VISIT FLORIDA

causal and friendly. The stunning Calusa

tacos.

For

authentic

DELIGHTS for the entire family BY STEVE WINSTON

or a memorable family vacation,

LEGOLAND Hotel and LEGOLAND Beach

Lakeland Linder International Airport. It’s

consider Central Florida where

Retreat, the new hotel will feature LEGO-

the second-largest event of its kind in the

you’re only 45 minutes from

themed decor.

world and the whole family will be amazed

Orlando’s theme parks and from the Tampa International Airport. This natural wonder-

LEGOLAND, however, is just one of many great attractions in Central Florida.

at the daredevil aerobatics of the renowned U.S. Air Force Thunderbirds.

land features 554 lakes and more than 600

Safari Wilderness Ranch, for example,

Where to stay? Accommodation options

kilometres of nature trails. And Central

was named among the “10 Best Safaris in the

range from the luxurious Streamsong

Florida (Polk County) is ﬁlled with popular

U.S.” by Fodors.com. Here you can book a

Resort & Spa, with three of the top golf

family attractions, including a world-class

tour by kayak, camel or safari vehicle. The

courses in North America, to teepees at the

theme park of its own.

Circle B Bar Reserve was listed among USA

rustic Westgate River Ranch Resort and

LEGOLAND Florida Resort reignites the

Today’s “Top 50 Places to See Wildlife” and

Rodeo, the largest dude ranch east of the

child in all of us, with more than 50 rides,

attracts hikers, photographers, painters and

Mississippi River.

shows and attractions. The park itself is an

nature-lovers from around the world.

immersive experience in brilliant techni-

Built by a Dutch immigrant in 1929, Bok

color and best expressed with shouts of joy

Tower Gardens is a unique attraction fea-

as kids view spectacular architectural LEGO

turing beautiful landscapes, hiking trails, a

marvels displayed throughout themed

boardwalk and a 62-metre “singing tower”

zones, among them The Great LEGO Race,

carillon with some bells weighing several

an incredible virtual-reality rollercoaster.

tons. At Florida Southern College in Lake-

The resort’s newest attraction, The LEGO Movie World, just opened in spring 2019.

land, there are 13 extraordinary buildings designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.

And April 2020 will see the opening of the

If you love airplanes, visit Central Florida

third lodging choice on the property—Pirate

from March 31 to April 5 to attend the 46th

Island Hotel. As with the existing

annual SUN ’n FUN Aerospace Expo at the

26 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

TRAVEL PLANNER

Let your imagination go wild on a Central Florida getaway at VisitCentralFlorida.org. TOP LEFT: A colourful world of wonder awaits visitors at the LEGOLAND Florida Resort in Winter Haven. Courtesy LEGOLAND Florida Resort TOP RIGHT: Bok Tower Gardens is a unique attraction featuring a 62-metre “singing tower” carillon. Courtesy of Bok Tower Gardens

A world of

EXCITING ADVENTURES BY STEVE WINSTON

orthwest Florida encompasses 10

parks here oﬀer camping, on both coastal and

cuisine. Local specialties include grouper

counties, ranging from historical

inland sites, where you can get up close and

throats, boiled peanuts and oysters. Also

ﬁshing villages in the east to the

personal with Florida wildlife.

capturing the region’s Southern heritage are

renowned sugar-white sand beaches on the

At Florida Caverns State Park in Mari-

beautiful old mansions such as the planta-

Gulf of Mexico. Here, where high-rises and

anna, explore an amazing subterranean

tion-style Gregory House (circa 1840s) in

crowds don’t exist, walkable small towns

system of caves featuring incredible rock

Torreya State Park.

with friendly people and interesting shops

formations and green ponds. Hike a beau-

Northwest Florida is simply packed with

still thrive.

tiful trail to the waterfalls at Falling Waters

stunning natural beauty, restaurants fea-

State Park or along any of the two dozen

turing down-home cookin’, amusements for

other trails in Northwest Florida.

the whole family and exciting discoveries

Mother Nature has blessed this region everywhere you look. Play golf on a beautifully manicured course in the morning, and

Observe dolphins rollicking in the Gulf

paddle or hike through virgin wilderness

of Mexico surf from the numerous white-

and unique ecosystems in the afternoon.

sand beaches or sand dunes along the coast,

Roam through towns like Apalachicola or

or up-close on board one of many ﬁshing

Marianna, where history lives on in classic

boats or charters. Try your hand at paddle-

old buildings. Or let the gentle breeze

boarding, surfboarding, kayaking or rowing.

embrace you as you lounge on the world-

For divers, there are a half-dozen watery

famous beaches of South Walton. Explore crystal-clear natural springs— 20 C year-round—at Ponce de Leon Springs

old-fashioned enjoyment!

TRAVEL PLANNER Discover a world of adventure in Northwest Florida at ExploreNWFlorida.com.

caves and offshore artificial reefs to explore. And fishing, both inland and on the Gulf, has been popular here for generations.

State Park or Merritt’s Mill Pond by boat or on

Take time to cruise the country roads and

a snorkelling or swimming excursion. Survey

discover scenic little towns ﬁlled with one-

nature from the bluﬀs at Torreya State Park on

of-a-kind

the Apalachicola River. In fact, a dozen state

restaurants serving Southern and coastal

28 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

with every bend in the road as well as plain

shops

and

locally

owned

TOP LEFT: Bike on a powder-soft beach in Franklin County. Franklin County TDC TOP RIGHT: Jackson Blue Springs. Explore Northwest Florida

5 WAYS TO SEE ST. AUGUSTINE of Lights during Nights BY VANESSA CACERES

here’s no better way to see St.

1. A trolley tour. Every night at 6 p.m., Old

Lighthouse and Maritime Museum fea-

Augustine shine than during the

Town Trolley oﬀers its famous Nights of

tures a spectacular view of the lights at the

26th annual Nights of Lights fes-

Lights tour. New this year is a Fast Track

top. Be ready to climb 219 steps.

tival. From now until February 2, millions

Pass for priority check-in.

5. Horse-drawn carriage tours. The

of tiny white lights dazzle and brighten

2. Enjoy the view from the water. A har-

Tasting Tours has nightly tours with a

America’s Oldest City, covering St. Augus-

bour tour from St. Augustine Eco Tours

horse-drawn carriage and a bottle of bou-

tine’s

architecture,

oﬀers a unique way to enjoy Nights of

tique wine to share. Private carriage rides

sidewalks, rooftops, hotels, public spaces

Spanish

Colonial

Lights on board six- or 12-passenger

and family-oriented Roadster Rides with

and the Bridge of Lions, for a 20-block light

boats. Other boat cruises include Florida

the Grinch are also available.

show. Nights of Lights has been listed

Water Tours, Scenic Cruise, Red Boat

among the world’s top 10 holiday light dis-

Water Tours, the schooner Freedom and

plays by National Geographic. Take in the Nights of Lights at Plaza de la

the Black Raven, which also stages a pirate show.

Constitución in front of the plaza’s Christmas

3. Take oﬀ on the train. Ripley’s Big Red

tree. Or head over to the Bridge of Lions to

Christmas Train Nights of Lights Tours

gaze at the lights’ reﬂections on the water.

take you to see the lights and includes a

Several holiday-themed events take place during Nights of Lights. Here are ﬁve extra special ways to enjoy St. Augustine this holiday season:

30 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

VIP pass on the weekends for priority check-in. 4. A view from above. The famous historical, and supposedly haunted, St. Augustine

TRAVEL PLANNER

Plan to light up your holiday getaway in St. Augustine at FloridasHistoricCoast.com. TOP LEFT: Take a horse-drawn carriage tour through the Colonial Quarter of St. Augustine. TOP RIGHT: The Lightner Museum glows during the Nights of Lights festival. St. Augustine, Ponte Vedra & The Beaches VCB

Florida’s

NATURAL SIDE BY STEVE WINSTON

ou won’t ﬁnd high-rises, crowds or

Northwest Florida’s

traﬃc in Northwest Florida’s

ﬁrst AgriTourism Trail

Jackson County. Instead, plenty of

features U-picks, far-

scenic villages such as Marianna, Graceville

mers’ markets, fresh

and Malone are waiting to be discovered.

produce stands and

Take time to browse around eclectic bou-

farm-to-table specialties. Become an olive-

experience and delightful surprises at every

tiques and antique shops. Tour Old Florida

oil tester for a day at Green Gate Olive Grove.

turn, remember Jackson County.

homes and even underground caverns.

You can almost hear the sounds of battle

Explore the natural beauty of Merritt’s Mill

at the Civil War battleﬁeld in Marianna.

Pond and along wilderness trails. Although Jackson County is still recovering

Some say nocturnal visitors lurk at the 1914 bridge on the Bellamy Bridge Heritage Trail.

from Hurricane Michael, many hotels, restau-

During the winter and spring seasons,

rants, nature trails, campgrounds and the

the beautiful Gene Prough Center for the

Florida Caverns State Park have reopened.

Arts at Chipola College stages a variety of

Rivers like the Chattahoochee and the Chipola,

interesting performances and the college’s

along which runs the beautiful Chipola River

sports teams play to enthusiastic crowds.

Greenway, are ﬂowing freely again.

So, if you’re looking for an Old Florida

TRAVEL PLANNER

Discover all there is to see and do in Jackson County at VisitJacksonCountyFla.com. PHOTO: Tour underground caverns near Marianna. Jackson County

ESCAPE THE CANADIAN COLD EDITORIAL & PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS

s there anything more Canadian than chatting about the weather? As winter approaches—with its plummeting temperatures, icy roads and snowdrifts— chatter turns to where to go to escape the cold. Luckily, many warmer U.S. destinations are within easy driving range or accessible via short flights. Florida is a perennial favourite among Canadians looking to escape winter’s chill. The Sunshine State offers a few off-thebeaten-path adventures like Crystal River, located on “Florida’s Nature Coast.” From November through March, manatees migrate from the Gulf of Mexico to the warmer rivers and bays, where visitors have the opportunity to observe these gentle creatures up close. To the south, Tampa’s outstanding food scene attracts millennials seeking a fun escape with friends while young families in search of kid-friendly options enjoy the Florida Aquarium’s penguins, river otters and lemurs. For those who yearn for a complete disconnect, Sanibel Island and neighbouring Captiva—just off the coast of Fort Myers— are known for sunsets, excellent shelling, fishing, sumptuous resorts and a barefoot luxury vibe. Boasting clear blue skies and temperatures hovering around 24 C, it’s no wonder Orlando—the Theme Park Capital of the World—is the ideal family destination. Take advantage of special Deals Made for Canadians at VisitOrlando.ca, which include discounts at major theme parks. visitflorida.com Situated in the southwest corner of Utah, St. George is less than a two-hour drive from McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas.

St. George is the warmest destination in Utah, boasts 12 golf courses and is central to the state’s Red Rock Golf Trail. New for this winter, the Advenire luxury hotel will open in historic downtown St. George. The upscale Marriott Autograph Collection property connects guests to nature and the outdoor lifestyle of southern Utah. St. George also provides access to Zion National Park as well as Red Cliﬀs National Conservation Area and Snow Canyon State Park, which oﬀer endless hiking, mountain biking and water recreation. Red Mountain Resort is a renowned spa resort perfect for a wellness renewal. redrockgolftrail.com; redmountainresort.com In the heart of the mid-Atlantic region, Virginia is a quick getaway for winter-weary

Canadians. There are more than 300 wineries, nearly 300 craft breweries, an assortment of artisanal cideries and nearly 70 distilleries, many of which are located in picturesque natural settings, and complement Virginia’s legendary fresh seafood. Nicknamed the Oyster Capital of the East Coast, the state features eight distinct oyster regions. Enjoy the outdoors during Virginia’s mild winter months on a peaceful hike in the scenic mountain ranges, on a whale-watching excursion or at one of Virginia’s more than 200 public golf courses. virginia.org South Carolina’s seductive Low Country is where crabbing, lighthouses and sweeping sand dunes studded with swaying sea oats form part of the landscape. A short drive from the historical antebellum city of Charleston, the town of Beaufort is so well preserved that ﬁlm scouts have pegged it for many movies, including The Prince of Tides, The Big Chill and Forrest Gump. southcarolinalowcountry.com In southern Arizona, Tucson and small towns like Tubac, Bisbee and Sierra Vista are a sure bet for warm temperatures, excellent hiking opportunities, fantastic birding and world-class museums such as the ArizonaSonora Desert Museum and the Pima Air & Space Museum. Averaging more than 300 days of sunshine a year, Arizona’s Phoenix/Scottsdale region is another popular wintertime destination for snowbirds. Known for such posh resorts as the historic Arizona Biltmore, Sanctuary Resort & Spa and the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess, Scottsdale’s world-class golf, shops, galleries, restaurants and entertainment are just minutes away. visitarizona.com DS PHOTO: Saguaro National Park, Arizona.

Discover more information on travel to the USA at visittheusa.ca.

WINTER 2019/2020 DREAMSCAPES 33

DS TRAVEL SLEUTH >> BY JANE STOKES

CHECK INTO A DIFFERENT WORLD

ABOVE: Enjoy the view from an all-window “bedroom-capsule” bolted to the mountainside at the Skylodge Adventure Suites in Peru. Nature Vive OPPOSITE TOP: Spend the night in a drainpipe at the Dasparkhotel in Ottensheim, Austria. Dasparkhotel OPPOSITE BOTTOM LEFT: Stay on board a vintage 727 aircraft at the Hotel Costa Verde in Costa Rica. Hotel Costa Verde OPPOSITE BOTTOM RIGHT: Enter the world of the famous Trojan horse at La Balade des Gnomes in Heyd, Belgium. La Balade des Gnomes

34 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

SLEEP IN A DRAINPIPE, a grotto, on a

little drama will also do the trick. Indeed,

bookshelf or even inside a Trojan-like

some hotels are betting that all of the extro-

horse. To capture and hold our attention,

verts, enthusiasts and quirky characters

hotels of merit work hard to create special

among us are constantly in search of a

identities, usually focusing on the most

travel caper at least as good as the last one.

pleasing aspects involving comfort, service,

Utterly devoted deep-sea divers, for

atmosphere and visual appeal. Mind you, a

instance, marvel at the thought of plunging

to the ocean-ﬂoor entrance of the Jules’ Undersea Lodge oﬀ Key Largo in the Florida Keys. Mountain climbers in Peru increase their adrenalin rush by climbing or zip lining up to an incredible dreamland known as Skylodge Adventure Suites, where three all-window “bedroom-capsules” are bolted to the mountainside. Auto enthusiasts at the V8 Hotel in Germany’s auto capital Stuttgart wake up well rested inside racing cars from England, France and Italy. And when travelling in our own country during the winter, We the North get to prove our metal by checking into the all-frozen Ice Hotel in Québec City. Priced from high-end premium to pay as you wish, only you know if a specific hotel is likely to fascinate you. Guests are also choosing to sleep inside bookcases, urban drainpipes, prehistoric grottos and the replica of a historical horse. Try these on for size: Read all night: If in Japan, and if you’re just crazy about the countless perspectives found in books, spend a night or two at a cost-saving hostel called Book and Bed Tokyo. Bed cubicles, both single and double, are cut right into the shelves of this book-

Caveman romance: If you’re passionate

ago wartime hardships in your bubble bath.

store-themed environment, where each

about piecing together the evolution of

Other guest room themes include trolls,

cubbie includes a book light, curtain,

mankind, step into a 9,000-year-old cave

monks, vineyards and dreamland on the

clothes

home in Matera, Italy. The premium hotel

moon. labaladedesgnomes.be/en/Home

hanger,

Wi-Fi

and

slippers.

bookandbedtokyo.com

Le Grotte della Civita has restored 18 grottos with heritage guidance on materials and

Sleep with polar bears: Our best chance to

Drainpipe dreams: Save money by staying

shapes, all of which originate from ancient

see these white giants is right on the

at the Dasparkhotel in Ottensheim, Austria,

dugouts in the rockface. Today, each cave

Hudson Bay shoreline of Churchill, Mani-

where right on the lawn you’ll see sewage

guest room is sumptuous and utterly

toba. For those who crave eﬀortless 24-hour

pipes segmented into individual bedrooms,

charming. legrottedellacivita.com

viewing, book a tour with Frontiers North Adventures to stay a few nights in the

each one with a secured entrance and electricity. For this, “pay as you wish” although

Hide in a horse: In Heyd, Belgium, upscale

Tundra Buggy Lodge, where several special-

you might be pleasantly surprised by the

fantasy is created in 11 diﬀerent ways at La

ized all-terrain vehicles are linked together

comforts extended by an ergonomically

Balade des Gnomes. If spending your nights

optimized double bed, a Eurofoam mat-

in an all-wood Trojan horse replica caught

sleeping, a pleasant dining room and

tress, fresh linen sheets, lots of cushions,

your attention, climb right up into its

lounge for wildlife-spotting by day, and if

and carefully planned storage space.

underbelly to be pampered in a luxurious

you’re lucky, the northern lights at night.

dasparkhotel.net

two-storey suite while you read about long-

frontiersnorth.com/tundra-buggy-lodge

deliver

well-equipped

berths

for

WINTER 2019/2020 DREAMSCAPES 35

ABOVE: Step into a 9,000-year-old cave home at Le Grotte della Civita in Matera, Italy. Sextantio BELOW: Observe polar bears from the Tundra Buggy Lodge in Churchill, Manitoba. Daniel J. Cox

Pennsylvania railcars: Sooner or later,

nuity of early farming is invited to sleep in a

ardent train-history enthusiasts meet the

19th-century grain mill, now a luxury boutique

Pennsylvania Railroad, which, in the 1920s,

hotel. First impressions inside the ﬁve-storey

was the continental king. Today, your family

Cley Windmill include a grand circular sitting

can be fully accommodated at a reasonable

room, an open ﬁreplace and a beamed dining

cost in one of 38 stationary, multicoloured

room. Upstairs are several bedrooms with

cars of the Red Caboose Motel & Restaurant,

incredible views over the farmland, marshes

located an hour or so west of Philadelphia.

and sea. One of the most elaborate, the Old Cart

Families share beds and bunks in their very

Shed features vaulted ceilings, a sumptuous

own caboose, which is fully equipped with

four-poster bed, a modern kitchenette, plus a

private bath, refrigerator, microwave, cable

private staircase up to a cosy alcove, perfect for

TV, free Wi-Fi—and the reward of such a fun

reading or daydreaming. cleywindmill.co.uk

history lesson. redcaboosemotel.com Fire truck strange: In the Scottish HighCockpit in the jungle: Costa Rica’s tropical

lands between Inverness and Aberdeen,

ecosystem certainly stimulates the senses,

sleep on the wild side by overnighting in a

so imagine this: the nose of a 1965 Boeing 727

military-looking tent-on-wheels. It’s a vin-

aircraft protruding through the jungle vines

tage 1956 Commer Q4 hook-and-ladder

of a Paciﬁc Coast rainforest. Carefully hauled

vehicle, renovated to be comfortable with

to this spot by the upscale Hotel Costa Verde,

equally creative furniture and ﬁxtures by

the airframe is now a fully outﬁtted, two-

the owner of Inshriach Estate. His Beermoth

bedroom suite. Nearby as well is the hotel’s

Fire Truck guest room is a permanent ﬁx-

Cockpit Cottage, which can only be accessed

ture on the farm and reviews point out that,

by crossing a long suspension bridge over

for a low cost, you’re likely to get a really

the wilds to the front door. costaverde.com

good night’s sleep, unforgettable fresh-air mornings, and of equal value in the High-

36 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

Windmill in Norfolk: On England’s east

lands, distilleries that are very close by.

coast, anyone who feels drawn to the inge-

inshriachhouse.com/camping-in-style

DS CELEBRITY TRAVEL CORNER >> BY CHRIS RYALL

A PHILOSOPHICAL APPROACH TO

MUSIC AND LIFE LEGIONS OF FANS WORLDWIDE have enjoyed the pop, jazz, classical and soulful songs and performances by multiple Grammy-nominated and seven-time Juno award winner Gino Vannelli. Among his most notable fans—the late Pope John Paul II. At the Pope’s request, Vannelli performed for him at the Vatican, Parole Per Mio Padre (A Word to My Father), a tribute to Vannelli’s father Joseph. At 67, Vannelli retains his ﬁt shape and signature curly locks. His hits since the 1970s include People Gotta Move, I Just Wanna Stop, Living Inside Myself, Black Cars, Wild Horses and It’s Only Love. Though successful with pop music early in his career, Vannelli never limited himself musically and is equally adept at performing classical music with renowned orchestras. One of his

Q&A

GINO VANNELLI

proudest musical accomplishments came with the release of Canto in 2003 on which he sang songs in French, English, Italian and Spanish. Born and raised in Montréal, musical inﬂuences included his own father who sang with Montréal dance bands and trumpeters like Maynard Ferguson. Legendary drummer Buddy Rich was a favourite of Vannelli’s and drums were his instrument of choice when he was young. (Guitar and piano followed.) In 1974, after his ﬁrst big hit, People Gotta Move, Stevie Wonder invited Vannelli to be his opening act on tour. After years of commercial success but disenchanted with the record industry and his label at the time, Vannelli retreated from recording and touring to focus on a journey that took him

DID YOU EVER WANT TO BE SOMETHING OTHER THAN A MUSICIAN? In my youth, I was quite enamoured with the Royal Canadian Navy. I wanted to join and see the world. I also loved literature so much that I desired to become a literature teacher. FAVOURITE PERFORMANCES? There are a couple of performances I did with the Swedish Radio Orchestra. The song I sang for the Pope. Opening for Stevie Wonder at the start of my career was a real opportunity. He asked me personally, so that’s what made it diﬀerent. It wasn’t done through managers and agencies. WHAT’S SPECIAL ABOUT WHERE YOU LIVE IN OREGON? The Columbia River Gorge is a spectacle and should be considered one of the wonders of the world. The Columbia River snakes through a hundred miles of mountains that soar three to ﬁve thousand feet up. The hiking trails are amazing. FAVOURITE DESTINATIONS? I enjoy the Netherlands. I lived there for a couple of years. I have South American friends with whom I love spending time. I love the

around the world for a few years studying humanities, philosophies and world religions. Family, wellness and staying true to himself and his music keeps Vannelli focused and grounded. After living in Montréal, New York, Los Angeles and Amsterdam, he chose to settle with his wife Patricia into a small community along the spectacular Columbia River Gorge on the outskirts of Portland, Oregon. Slowing down is not in Vannelli’s repertoire. Planning a multi-country tour to promote his latest album, Wilderness Road, teaching Master Classes in voice, sound engineering and producing from his Oregon studio, and performing on stage, Vannelli continues to push the boundaries of his musical and literary genius.

coastal areas of California and Oregon as well as the California and Nevada deserts. I also love the Ozark Mountains. ANY DREAM DESTINATION? I think the world has so many incredibly beautiful places, but they mean less without someone you care about to share them with you. DO YOU CHAT WITH STRANGERS WHEN YOU TRAVEL? I always make it a point on planes, buses or trains to speak to my neighbour. I get to see how people really feel and think. WHAT ITEM DO YOU ALWAYS TAKE ON TRIPS? A Canadian-made Godin guitar. YOU HAVE AN INTERESTING MARRIAGE VOW WITH YOUR WIFE PATRICIA. Never say anything we both couldn’t take back. I wrote a song called Words Can Kill, so I believe once you venture into that dark territory of name-calling there’s a respect lost. Amazingly enough, to this day, we have both never even whispered a pained “please” or an oﬀhand “shut up” to each other. DS

WINTER 2019/2020 DREAMSCAPES 37

EXPLORING

PANAMA

THE MIXOLOGIST IN THE PALAPA BAR AT THE BUENAVENTURA GOLF & BEACH RESORT REVEALED ONE OF HIS TRADE SECRETS.

Editorial & photography by Steve Gillick

iguel Diaz lowered his voice

lime. You can smell the valley, feel the

and admitted he infuses his

forest and share in the tradition of the

drinks with the cultural mem-

locals drinking eucalyptus tea in the cold

ories of his travels. “They’re not just drinks.

38 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

mountains.”

It’s all about the history and experience

To Miguel, exceeding expectations, as far

inside the drink.” And to prove his point, he

as the senses are concerned, was the ulti-

served us “Freshness of the Forest” in

mate takeaway for any visitor to Panama.

glasses covered in actual tree bark and

There’s no question that Panama City

moss. “This cocktail takes you into El Valle

can be the sole purpose of a trip to the

with its infusion of eucalyptus, blackberry

country, but not all travellers seek city-

purée, red wine, single malt scotch and

focused holidays. For some, the idea of

OPPOSITE: Geoffroy’s tamarin monkeys get ready to come on board the Gatún Lake Cruise. RIGHT: Chorro El Macho, the “Manly” Waterfall in El Valle de Anton.

disconnecting from skyscrapers and traffic jams and reconnecting with nature, the land and the people define their vacation as meaningful, interactive and memorable. They are continually discovering that there is a world of wonder out there. INTERACTING WITH NATURE Soberania National Park, about 25 kilometres outside of Panama City, is a wonderful escape for nature lovers, birders, photographers, walkers and joggers. They head for Pipeline Road where they only have to walk a few metres along the 17.5-kilometre path through the rainforest to see scarlet-rumped caciques, violet-bellied hummingbirds and some of the other 525 species of birds in the park. It’s not uncommon to hear a barking roar in the distance, only to witness a few minutes later a family of howler monkeys swinging through the canopy. And it’s not unusual to spot a mass of unkempt hair in the crook of a tree, and then realize that it’s a napping three-toed sloth. Michael Castro, our birding guide, told us that when he was a child, he and his grandfather would talk to the birds and name them. A colourful keel-billed toucan would become “Mr. Toucan,” and therefore more easily recognizable the next time they met. Michael related a prophetic moment when they spotted a graceful white hawk one day. “My grandfather put a hand over his heart and told me that when he died, he wanted to return as that hawk.” Michael continued to learn about birds and has mastered over 300 different bird calls. “My grandfather passed all that energy on to me.”

WINTER 2019/2020 DREAMSCAPES 39

ABOVE: Snail kite along the Gatún River. BELOW: A male three-toed sloth in Soberania National Park. TOP RIGHT: One of the pools at the Buenaventura Golf & Beach Resort. OPPOSITE RIGHT: Nineska serves welcome drinks prepared by Miguel Diaz, from the Palapa Bar, Buenaventura Golf & Beach Resort.

40 DREAMSCAPES WINTER 2019/2020

And our own energetic interaction with

INTO THE VALLEY AND BEYOND

nature continued on nearby Gatún Lake.

It should be noted, however, that Panama, a

Forsaking hiking for a motorboat, we sped

country slightly smaller than Ireland, is

past huge cargo ships plying the Panama

fairly easy to explore without a guide and

Canal before heading into a marshy area.

also with a limited knowledge of Spanish.

Docking on a small island, we encoun-

On a mission to ﬁnd the rare Panamanian

tered a troop of curious white-faced

golden frog, we caught a communal van at

capuchin monkeys. And when we stopped

Panama City’s bus terminal for the two-hour

at a neighbouring island, a family of Geof-

journey to El Valle de Anton.

froy’s tamarin monkeys, with their

On arrival we rented bicycles, naively

adorable pug-like facial expressions,

overlooking the fact that the town sits in an

climbed aboard our boat, scampered

extinct volcanic crater. Therefore, to visit

across the seat backs checking here and

Chorro El Macho (the Manly Waterfall), we

there for food, and finding none, hopped

had to walk our bikes up a steep incline in the

back into the dense island foliage. Great

34 C morning heat, but on arrival, the cool air

blue herons, hook-billed snail kites,

currents around the 35-metre waterfall

swooping magnificent frigatebirds and

proved to be heavenly. And then from the

even American crocodiles complimented

waterfall, it was a steep and, needless to say,

this amazing getaway.

fast bike ride downhill to Pozos Termales for

his “taste-of-the-country” drinks. But the sense of escape actually started as soon as we entered the lobby of the ﬁve-star property. On display were life-size, woven bird statues, traditionally used by the Embera people to celebrate their connection with nature. One wall featured a collection of power sticks, resembling walking canes with decorated heads, and used by the Caribe people to pay homage to their ancestors. And other lobby walls showcased handicrafts used by some of Panama’s eight indigenous groups. Inside the Palapa Bar, Miguel explained, a therapeutic mud bath. Photos and selﬁes of

the day at a grove of trees, gloriously

“Every drink I make captures the ﬁve

ourselves completely coated in the thick

crowned by a ﬂock of colourful chestnut-

senses, as well as a sixth. The sixth sense is

mud were de rigueur, before our long, blissful

mandibled toucans.

your attention; making you aware that you

soak in one of the warm thermal pools. Then it was another steep ride uphill to

are in a very special destination.” PARTING THOUGHTS

Panama is a world of wonders, brimming

the Zoological Park to ﬁnally see the elusive

Back at the Buenaventura Golf & Beach

with

golden frog. Local legend dictates that good

Resort, in the area known as Playa Blanca,

embrace adventure, peace of mind, cultural

luck will come your way if you lay your eyes

near Rio Hato in Coclé Province, Miguel the

interaction, nature appreciation and, ulti-

on the creature and, sure enough, luck

mixologist was tantalizing the guests with

mately, vacation satisfaction.

sixth-sense

opportunities

that

arrived at the end of our sweltering day of discovery, in the form of two ice-cold cans of Balboa beer. North of El Valle lies the city of Colón where Achiote Road in Fort San Lorenzo National Park is considered a mecca for birders and nature lovers. We spent a full day walking the trails, spotting over 60 species of birds and animals, and with our

TRAVEL PLANNER For more information, visit: Panama Tourism Authority: VisitPanama.com Colón: visitpanama.com/destino/san-lorenzo El Valle de Anton: visitpanama.com/destino/el-valle-de-anton Soberania National Park: visitpanama.com/destino/parques-nacionales Buenaventura Golf & Beach Resort: thebuenaventurahotel.com Gatún Lake Cruise: ecocircuitos.com

guide Michael leading the way, we ended

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reparations are underway for the performance of the once-in-a-lifetime Passion Play, held every 10 years in Oberammergau, Bavaria. With more than 2,000 local Bavarian actors participating, the play is set to exceed your expectations. From the beginning of May 2020 until October, the Oberammergau Passion Play will once again renew its centuries-old pledge to those travelling to the German small town from around the world. This spectacular event is only one of many you will experience on a 13-day itinerary organized by Connaissance Travel and Tours, which includes an excursion to Germany’s south, visiting the magniﬁcent Neuschwanstein Castle, an enchanting night in Oberammergau and a Danube River cruise along the Wachau Valley. Prices start at $5,890. ConnaissanceTravel.com/OberammergauPassionPlay2020

he Caribbean islands of Antigua and Barbuda are getting ready to welcome new visitors to their shores this winter as new construction continues to ramp up to satisfy the boom in tourism. A number of new properties are oﬀering great deals for the upcoming season. The Hodges Bay Resort & Spa, which opened its doors in December 2018, is a charming hotel nestled on 3.2 hectares between beautiful crystal-blue waters and lush tropical vegetation. Opened in May 2019, the Royalton Antigua Resort & Spa by Sunwing is a stunning 294-room resort situated on the white beach of picturesque Deep Bay. Scheduled to open in December 2019, the brand new Hammock Cove Resort & Spa by Elite Island Resorts will feature an adults-only, all-inclusive paradise oﬀering 42 beautiful private villas. visitantiguabarbuda.com

GNTO

ffective February 11, 2020, Air Canada will be offering a new mid-week flight between Toronto and Basseterre, on the Caribbean island of St. Kitts, to complement its existing Saturday service. The non-stop Tuesday service, aboard a 136-seat Airbus A-319, will operate until April 14, giving locals and visitors more options to visit this scenic Caribbean island during peak tourist season. The carrier is also all set to operate new non-stop flights from Toronto to Quito, Ecuador, this December. And in addition to its current service from Toronto, the airline will also be introducing nonstop service three times weekly effective June 2, 2020, between Montréal and Bogotá, Colombia, with special introductory fares starting as low as $795 return. aircanada.com

onsider a memorable expedition to the Arctic or Atlantic Canada in 2020 aboard an Adventure Canada ship. From the company’s Voyages of Discovery brochure, choose to celebrate spring in Costa Rica and the Panama Canal aboard the 48-passenger Panorama. The Mighty Saint Lawrence itinerary takes you from Québec City to Saint Pierre and Miquelon, while the new Atlantic Explorer expedition stops in three Atlantic provinces with two days of landings on Sable Island, famous for its wild horses, grey seals and the Ipswich sparrow. AdventureCanada.com

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W SMALL LUXURY HOTELS

estJet’s regional air service, WestJet Link, recently expanded its services to include non-stop ﬂights twice daily between Vancouver and Cranbrook, B.C., on board a 34-seat SAAB 340B aircraft. Each aircraft includes six seats in WestJet Premium, oﬀering passengers advanced boarding, no charge for two checked bags and seating at the front of the aircraft. Since its inception in 2018, WestJet Link has serviced Cranbrook, Lethbridge, Lloydminster, Medicine Hat and Prince George through the Calgary hub. This expansion into Vancouver is perfectly timed as the region prepares for its busiest time of year with inbound winter adventurers and outbound sun seekers. westjet.com

mall Luxury Hotels of the World recently welcomed ﬁve new hotels to its portfolio. The Lennox Miami Beach boasts original 1930s art deco design and 119 contemporary guest rooms with sweeping views of the city. In Jamaica, S Hotel Jamaica overlooks the famous Doctor’s Cave beach and exudes cool Caribbean vibes. At the oceanfront KASA Hotel Riviera Maya guests can revel in a Mayan clay bath day, relax on the beach or at the inﬁnity-edge pool, sail and play golf. In Tulum, the KASA Hotel Parota is a family-friendly boutique hotel set among uncrowded beaches and world-class restaurants. Situated in a stunning 19th-century Venetian-style palazzo, the romantic Vista Palazzo Lago Di Como in Lago Di Como, Italy, is among the most photographed structures on Lake Como. Nightly rates range from US$160 to $586. slh.com CANADIAN TOURISM COMMISSION

ave you ever wondered if you have what it takes to be a spy? The new and completely reimagined Spy Museum in Washington, D.C. immerses you in the undercover world of espionage and adventure. Armed with your personal secret cover identity and an RFID-enable badge, you can test your spy skills on a mission through the museum as you create a disguise, crack codes, pick locks, analyze intel and more. Along the way, view thousands of pieces of espionage gear, gadgets and other items on display. Tickets are available for purchase online. SpyMuseum.org

BAHAMAS PARADISE CRUISE LINE

ooking for a little diversion while in the Sunshine State? Book a fun two-night getaway any day of the week with the Bahamas Paradise Cruise Line between the Port of Palm Beach, Florida, and Grand Bahama Island. Once on board, you can dance the night away, dine to your heart’s content, roll the dice in the casino or sit back and enjoy amazing live entertainment ranging from Vegas-style shows to late-night comedians. You can also book a cruise-and-stay package if you prefer to spend more time in the Bahamas. Enjoy two nights at sea plus two or four additional nights on the island at one of the cruise line’s partner resorts. bahamasparadisecruise.com SAM KITTNER FOR THE INTERNATIONAL SPY MUSEUM

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C CTC

ne of the best places in the world to see the aurora borealis is in the Northwest Territories. The northern lights come out to play more than 200 nights a year, giving visitors ample opportunity to experience this breathtaking phenomenon. And there are a number of ways to do just that. Soak up the local culture and sample traditional food as the northern lights dance above you before you retire to your igloo for the night. Leave Yellowknife’s city lights behind as you ride a snowmobile to your wilderness cabin 30 minutes away. At Aurora Village just outside Yellowknife, savour a gourmet meal in a VITeepee before you settle into a heated outdoor seat to witness the greatest show on Earth. Or head out on an aurora photography tour with Sundog Adventures. It doesn’t get much better than this. spectacularnwt.com

uba is gearing up for its 2019/20 tourism season with a number of luxury resorts, resulting in 4,200 new hotel rooms ready to welcome tourists from Canada and around the world. In Havana, head to the new five-star urban resorts—Iberostar Grand Hotel Packard, Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski La Habana or the Sofitel Prado Malecón—to celebrate the city’s 500th anniversary with music, live performances and revelry. In Cayo Cruz, two new hotels include the Valentin Cayo Cruz and the Hotel Marina & Spa Cayo Cruz. In Holguín, the new five-star Iberostar Albatros Guardalavaca is an ideal choice. In Cayo Guillermo, the luxurious Cayo Guillermo Resort Kempinski features 245 rooms and suites, including six over-water villas. Nearby in Playa Playuelas, MGM Gran Muthu Rainbow Hotel was created for the LGBT community. GoCuba.ca

JESSON + COMPANY

F JAPAN NATIONAL TOURISM ORGANIZATION

n July 2020, Shinjuku will be at the centre of the Olympic Games. Often referred to as the Times Square of Tokyo, the area’s new National Stadium is undergoing a $1.26-billion rebuild for the upcoming Summer Games. This city within a city is known for its skyscrapers and ﬂashy billboards and its wide range of attractions, which include the charming winding alleys in the micro-neighbourhood of Golden Gai with its more than 200 bars and restaurants, the ever-popular Robot Restaurant featuring cabaret-style shows, Yayoi Kusama Museum and live jazz performances and whisky tasting at the Park Hyatt’s New York Bar. olympic.org/Tokyo-2020

ollowing a threeexpansion year project, the Musée Ingres has reopened its 19th-century building in Montauban, the birthplace of the French painter neoclassical Jean-August-Dominique Ingres. Situated in the heart of southwest France, this ﬂagship of French culture houses an exceptional collection of the master’s paintings and drawings, the largest outside of the Louvre Museum in Paris. In 2019/20, the museum will showcase four expositions: Dans l’atelier d’Ingres, from December 14, 2019 to June 7, 2020; Constellation Ingres Bourdelle, from December 14 to June 7; Un site très convoité, du château comtal au musée du XXIe siècle: le musée Ingres Bourdelle, from December 14 to June 7; and L’oeil de la machine 2019/Miguel Chevalier, from December 14, 2019 to December 15, 2020. museeingresbourdelle.com MUSÉE INGRES

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DS WEB LISTING >> Adventure Canada ..................................................................5 www.adventurecanada.com Avani Event Centre, ON ......................................................43 www.avanieventcentre.com Beaches of Fort Myers and Sanibel, FL ............................23 www.fortmyers-sanibel.com Best Western Hotels & Resorts ..........................................48 www.bestwestern.com/rewardsrush4 Cartier Place Suite Hotel, Ottawa ......................................17 www.suitedreams.com

CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE

arnival Cruise Line has officially welcomed its 27th ship, Carnival Panorama, which will now head to Long Beach, California, for its naming ceremony and inaugural sailing on December 11, 2019. It is the cruise line’s first new ship to be homeported on the West Coast in more than 20 years. In addition to a variety of long-time guest favourites, the new ship features a number of innovations including the first Sky Zone trampoline park at sea as well as a first-in-fleet culinary studio where guests can participate in hands-on cooking classes, tastings and other food-related activities hosted by the ship’s chefs. A wide range of staterooms and suites are available as well. carnival.com

Central Florida ......................................................................27 www.visitcentralflorida.org Courtyard by Marriott Ottawa East....................................19 www.courtyardottawaeast.com Crane's Beach House Boutique Hotel & Luxury Villas, FL......4 www.cranesbeachhouse.com Dukoral ..................................................................................47 www.dukoralcanada.com Fairmont Le Chȃteau Montebello, QC ..............................15 www.fairmont.com/quebec Florida Keys & Key West, FL ................................................25 www.fla-keys.com Jackson County, FL ................................................................32 www.visitjacksoncountyfla.com Jamaica......................................................................................9 www.visitjamaica.com Northwest Florida ................................................................29 www.explorenwflorida.com St. Augustine Ponte Vedra, FL ............................................31 www.floridashistoriccoast.com San Antonio, Texas ..................................................................2 www.visitsanantonio.com South Padre Island, Texas ....................................................13 www.sopadre.com/winter-texan

rom November 9 to January 12, 2020, the National Gallery on Trafalgar Square in London, England, invites you to explore Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece, “The Virgin of the Rocks,” in new ways. The Gallery features four distinct spaces. The journey begins in a landscape populated by Leonardo’s thoughts and ideas as he prepares to paint. In the Studio, you’ll discover how the masterpiece was painted and the lost composition hidden beneath the surface. In a room-sized experiment, you’ll see the dramatic eﬀects of light and shadow on Leonardo’s composition. Then ﬁnally, in an imagined chapel, you’ll come face to face with the original masterpiece. Tickets are available online. nationalgallery.org.uk

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Sunny Isles Beach Miami, FL ..............................................20 www.sunnyislesbeachmiami.com Trafalgar Tours ........................................................................3 www.trafalgar.com Travel Guide to California ......................................................8 www.californiatravelguide.travel Travel Guide to Canada ..........................................................8 www.canadatravelguides.ca Travel Guide to Florida ..........................................................8 www.ﬂoridatravelguide.travel Visit Florida ............................................................................21 www.visitﬂorida.com