DREAMSCAPES Travel & Lifestyle Magazine

TRAVEL AND LIFESTYLE

HISTORIC

HYDERABAD

THE BEAUTY OF LAGUNA BEACH AEGEAN GEMS MEXICO’S PUEBLOS MAGICOS

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FALL 2019

DS TABLE OF CONTENTS >>

VOLUME 24, ISSUE NO. 4

8

TAKE OFF TO HOT HYDERABAD This historic city, the fourth largest in India, is a rich melting pot.

BY ILONA KAUREMZSKY

12

ARTSY LAGUNA BEACH Protected wilderness and miles of prime west coast oceanfront make this California community a magnet for artists.

BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS

14

DARK SKY PARKS AND PRESERVES Starry heavens in all their celestial glory can be viewed in many rural areas across the USA.

BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS

18

CRUISE THE AEGEAN SEA Explore two ancient countries on board a Celestyal Cruise.

BY BRUCE SACH

STEPHEN SMITH/MYCOMPASS.CA

VISITLAGUNABEACH.COM

COVER: Charminar, Hyderabad’s principal landmark, was built in 1591.

Photo: Aravind Teki/Shutterstock.com

4 DREAMSCAPES FALL 2019

© CAROLE JOBIN

MICHAEL ERDLE, TORONTO, ON

WINNER OF A

CRUISE TO ICELAND AND GREENLAND COMPLIMENTS OF

TOURISME LAURENTIDES

I was very excited to be the lucky winner of Dreamscapes Travel & Lifestyle Magazine’s contest to sail with Adventure

21

22

CELEBRITY TRAVEL CORNER A conversation with one of Canada’s iconic skaters, Kurt Browning.

outdoor-loving 27-year-old daughter was thrilled to join

BY CHRIS RYALL

passengers with utmost care and attention. The Adventure

TRAVEL SLEUTH Every fall, the North American landscape magically transforms into a grand display of vibrant colours.

BY JANE STOKES

25

Canada from Iceland to Greenland this past summer. My me on this adventure cruise. The ship’s crew treated all the Canada team made every minute aboard and ashore a pleasure! All of the excursions were so well-planned and executed. Some of the memories of the trip-of-a-lifetime include: the first sight of the coast of Greenland from the deck of the Ocean Endeavour; gliding past massive icebergs in Prince Christian Sound; kayaking up to the face of an

MIXING IT UP IN MEXICO Dubbed “The Soul of Mexico,” the state of Michoacán boasts a long history and vivid culture.

BY E. LISA MOSES

ancient glacier as it slides into the sea; cycling among the multicoloured buildings in the communities of Qaqortoq and Nuuk; learning about Greenland’s history, geology and wildlife from on-board experts; the “polar plunge” on the last day of the voyage. Most of all, I was struck by the raw

28

TRAVEL GALLERY

beauty of the rock and ice and have a new respect for the

News you can use.

Inuit and Vikings who carved a living out of this forbidding

BY CYNTHIA DAVID

land over the centuries. — Michael Erdle FALL 2019 DREAMSCAPES 5

DREAMSCAPES TRAVEL AND LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE is published by Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. Visit dreamscapes.ca to view this issue of our magazine in its entirety and to link easily to editorials, advertisers, contest information, as well as previous issues.

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR We’d like to hear from you. Readers are always encouraged to submit emails to editor@dreamscapes.ca.

PUBLISHING Joseph P. Turkel

PUBLISHER ASSOCIATE PUBLISHERS

EDITOR EXECUTIVE EDITOR COPY EDITOR EDITOR-AT-LARGE CONTRIBUTING EDITORS ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION MANAGER DIRECTOR OF IT CONTROLLER PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER

Sandra Kitchen Valerie Saunders Donna S. Vieira Judi Scharf Anne Champagne Jane Stokes Cynthia David Ilona Kauremszky Mark Tzerelshtein Julia Wall Mike State Gloria Mungo Joseph P. Turkel

CONTRIBUTORS

Cynthia David | Ilona Kauremszky Josephine Matyas | E. Lisa Moses Chris Ryall | Bruce Sach | Jane Stokes ADVERTISING SALES CORPORATE OFFICE

Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. 3 Bluffwood Dr., Toronto, Ontario M2H 3L4 Tel: 416-497-5353 or 1-888-700-4464 Fax: 416-497-0871 | dreamscapes.ca Email: dreamscapesmagazine@rogers.com ADVERTISING SALES REPRESENTATIVES

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Copyright © 2019 The contents of this magazine may not be reproduced without the written permission of Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. The opinions in this magazine are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the views of Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. Publications Mail Agreement 40047932.

TAKE OFF TO

HOT HYDERABAD HYDERABAD SIZZLES ON ANY GIVEN DAY.

By Ilona Kauremszky

T

his capital city of the southern state of Telangana offers exoticaseeking travellers a manageable,

stress-free experience of India, where food, culture and original treasures come together as shining gems in a country fuelled by extreme contrasts.

I had left behind the whirring din of Delhi’s cacophony, where I had luxuriated in splendour at the palatial ITC Grand Bharat Gurgaon, fit for the wellness and golf gods, to seek out rich urban pleasures in one of India’s fastest evolving cities: Hyderabad. It wasn’t easy.

Despite the fine amenities at my regal retreat located outside New Delhi’s southwestern border, the otherworldly experiences of India called out to me. I was off to encounter a fabled city, dubbed Hyberabad for its profusion of tech heavyweights.

Google,

Amazon

and

Facebook have headquarters in this city, which offers a slower pace of life compared to Delhi’s maelstrom.

A CITY OF CONTRASTS After a two-hour flight from Delhi on board a new airline, a pace of life far different from Delhi’s blurring blare presents itself.

8 DREAMSCAPES FALL 2019

Situated along the Musi River surrounded by hilly terrain and man-made lakes, the historic city is gifted in contrasts. The Old City dates back over 400 years in a new state that was only formed in 2014. The capital is the fourth largest city in the country and comprises folks from a rich melting pot.

While the majority are Hindu, there is a strong Muslim population due to its history as well as pockets of other minority communities. Describing the area’s religious tolerance, a great Nizam of the region once famously quipped, “Hindus and Muslims are

Collection, the new LEED Platinum hotel

like my two eyes ... how can I favour one eye

bursts from the stark horizon like a dazzling

over the other?”

diamond. The shape mystifies with its

Boasting a Nizam empire-rich past and

angular cuts, geometric windows and

once the largest princely state in India, this

ribbons of vertical green walls, all of which

city attracted many Muslim writers and

are patterns inspired by the world-famous

artists from Delhi who sought patronage

Kohinoor diamond widely believed to have

from the mighty Nizam of Hyderabad. The

been mined nearby.

dynasty ruled for two centuries until Indian

I finally have arrived. However, despite

independence in 1947. According to legend,

the temperature of 24 to 28 C forecasted for

the earliest ruler of the Qutb Shahi dynasty

my late-spring visit, a full-blown heatwave

chose

it

limits sightseeing excursions to morning

“Bhagyanagar” after a Bhagmati queen who

hours only. “You can cool down in the spa or

was an amorous dancing girl. She converted

by the pool later,” suggests a staff member

to Islam and took the name Hyder Mahal. The

describing a popular hotel pastime.

the

location

and

named

OPPOSITE: The Charminar landmark towers above the crowds. Ilona Kauremszky ABOVE: Exterior view of the ITC Kohenur, Hyderabad’s first eco-luxury business hotel, and part of the ITC Hotels Luxury Collection. Buddha Studios BELOW: The head doorman at the palatial ITC Grand Bharat Gurgaon. Ilona Kauremszky

city was renamed Hyderabad in her honour.

On the outskirts of Old Hyderabad,

CULTURAL TOURS

|amid IT firms and large-scale business

Another pastime is enjoying Hyderabadi

developments, one of the snazziest newest

hospitality. The hotel has a concierge service

grand lodgings of HITEC City stands out: the

for local activities and guided tours. One

city’s first eco-luxury business hotel, the ITC

morning I am off on a cultural tour to the

Kohenur. Part of the ITC Hotels Luxury

Old City. The enchanted Chowmahalla

FALL 2019 DREAMSCAPES 9

LEFT: View the marble throne and exquisite interior of the Chowmahalla Palace. OPPOSITE TOP: Handmade bangles of every description are highly revered in Hyderabad. Ilona Kauremszky

Palace was home to the last Nizam monarchy who used it to entertain guests.

You can view the marble throne and interiors bedecked in a collection of oddities ranging from glass-enclosed antique cars to Nizami princess’ gold- and silver-threaded khara dupattas worn at royal receptions.

We later scour an old street market, Laad Bazaar, for bangles, another highly revered item unique to Hyderabad. Hyderabadi bangles are handmade from lacquer, glass beads and sparkling stones rolled using traditional

techniques

practised

in

sidestreet studios.

Another morning, I sign up for a Food Sherpa trail, a curated guided foodie tour approved by the hotel. For newcomers who are apprehensive about the local street food scene,

this

culinary

tour

is

highly

recommended. No regrets. The city is known for biryani and haleem, and its blend of Mughlai and Arab cuisines.

By the Charminar, a city icon often compared to Agra’s Taj Mahal, we hobnob at an Irani chai fixture, Nimrah Cafe and Bakery in the shadow of the landmark, which towers over the bustling foot traffic.

The family business is now run by son Aslam, whose entrepreneurial spirit is evident at the patron-packed teahouse.

“Every day people come to see our service and quality,” he observes in English as he describes his Iranian tea method while I sample his melt-in-your-mouth shortbreadstyle Osmania biscuit.

At Chicha’s, the lunch atmosphere is subdued. That’s because the casual diner in the Lakdikapul area only intensifies late at night, which is another popular Hyderabadi pastime. “People dine late here,” laughs a local on the food scene. Here the decor is

10 DREAMSCAPES FALL 2019

unfussy but the cooking concentrates on original Hyderabadi dishes. I dive into the Shaadi Ka Red Chicken in a spicy tomato sauce with the house specialty, a mutton biryani in a satiating combo.

Then it’s back to the hotel with the inďŹ nity pool, which seems to call out my name. Glancing at the evolving landscape that morphed from an old dustbin into a hot IT bastion, I take the ultimate dip.

The new hot Hyderabad sizzles with possibilities.

TRAVEL PLANNER Air Canada (aircanada.com) and Air India (airindia.com) offer scheduled services between Canadian gateways and Delhi. For domestic departures to Hyderabad, the Indira Gandhi International Airport in Delhi opened the new Terminal 3, said to be the eighth largest in the world. I flew on the full-service Vistara Airlines, rated the best airline in India by TripAdvisor.

For customized land tours of Hyderabad and India, contact a Toronto-based Travel Industry Council of Ontario-registered travel consultant at Travel Pals India (travelpalsindia.com).

Canadians require a visa to visit India and can apply online for an e-Tourist Visa at indianvisaonline.gov.in. For more information, visit: India Tourism Office: incredibleindia.org Telangana Tourism Office: telanganatourism.gov.in

DS

FALL 2019 DREAMSCAPES 11

ARTSY

LAGUNA BEACH

THE FREEWAY SNAKING THROUGH LOS ANGELES IS A DOZEN LANES FROM ONE SIDE TO THE OTHER. MY BRAIN DIDN’T LIKE THAT MATH AND, AS IT TURNS OUT, MY GPS WAS NOT TOO HAPPY EITHER. THIS SEEMED LIKE A GOOD TIME TO PUNCH IN THE COORDINATES FOR A SANER CALIFORNIA BEACH TOWN EXPERIENCE: 33.5427° N, 117.7854° W., LAGUNA BEACH.

By Josephine Matyas

A

n hour’s drive down the Coast

nature” checked a lot of boxes for many

Highway (a.k.a. Highway 1), I

people. And it still does. Laguna Beach has

could feel my heart rate slow

kept its small-town heart but has managed

down, the sky seemed clearer and bluer and

to mix it with a relaxed, upscale lifestyle.

the pace of, well, everything felt healthier.

Like many Southern California beach com-

Pint-sized Laguna Beach (population hovers

munities, Laguna Beach would have you

around 25,000, compared to four million of

digging deep into your pockets. My pockets

the behemoth to the north) includes 89

are not nearly flush enough to buy property,

respite and recharge. The Surf & Sand

square kilometres of protected wilderness

but, as it turns out, Laguna Beach was the

Resort called to me with a main level deck

and 11 kilometres of prime west coast

perfect place to visit and soak up that Cali-

boasting a fabulous view of the beaches, a

oceanfront, riddled with 30 picturesque

fornia beach town vibe.

background soundtrack of the waves, spot-

coves and beaches. When the Big City

ting of dolphins and whales, as well as a

started to rattle my brain, Laguna Beach was

ART IS EVERYWHERE

watermelon margarita that tasted like

just what the doctor ordered.

It’s no surprise that, in a town founded by

summer in a glass.

Rattled brains or not, in the early years,

creative spirits, the arts are everywhere. A

For decades, visitors have come to Laguna

Laguna Beach was a magnet for amateur

stroll along the main street is a real find of

Beach to see a performance of the Pageant of

artists and weekend painters who came to

galleries and artisan workshops, many

the Masters. The unique 90-minute show

capture scenes of its coastal beauty. It didn’t

with creations echoing the influence of sea

takes place under the stars in an outdoor

take long for the town to gain a reputation

and sky. I’m not known for my shopping

amphitheatre just minutes from downtown.

as a plein air artists’ getaway. Stepping out-

stamina, so every so often I need to step

Described as “living pictures,” the Pageant

side the studio and painting “as one with

away from the storefronts for a bit of

started in 1933 as a way to draw people to a

12 DREAMSCAPES FALL 2019

LEFT: The Surf & Sand Resort boasts a fabulous view of the beaches and a background soundtrack of the waves. BELOW: A performer gets into character at the Pageant of the Masters. VisitLagunaBeach.com

guided eco-walk at Heisler Park. The deep waters, tide pools and hidden sea caves are home to a density of marine life including lobsters, sea urchins, bottlenose dolphins, whales, sharks and massive underwater kelp forests, a basic building block of the local art festival. It became wildly popular

PULL OF THE OUTDOORS

and now runs nightly in the summer (week-

Exploring the outdoors seems to be a nat-

There is a “protect and preserve” mindset

ends through the rest of the year). A

ural way of life in most iconic California

to this part of the coastline. The waters and

turntable stage, meticulous costumes and

beach towns. After a delicious lunch of

shoreline of Laguna Beach are designated a

makeup, theatrical lighting and a 28-piece

salmon and salad al fresco at The Ranch at

State Marine Reserve, meaning no collec-

orchestra all contribute to seamlessly

Laguna Beach—a chic property tucked away

tion of rocks, shells, animals or sea life is

inserting a living character into a 2D tableau

in a forested canyon and a member of the

permitted. Our guide reminded us to “take

recreation of works of art. As part of the illu-

exclusive National Geographic Unique

only memories.” Mine were of a breath-

sion, the transformed cast member must sit

Lodges of the World due to its conservation

taking beach town, with no tangled freeway

completely still for 90 seconds. The Pageant

efforts—I found my way to the beach for a

in sight.

ocean ecosystem.

DS

is a source of artistic pride for Laguna Beach, enough that each summer more than 140 cast members take their places to help create

TRAVEL PLANNER Plan your Laguna Beach getaway at visitcalifornia.com and VisitLagunaBeach.com.

dozens of picture settings.

FALL 2019 DREAMSCAPES 13

DARK SKY PARKS AND PRESERVES EDITORIAL & PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS

W

here city lights glow, stars have

Great Basin National Park in Nevada is

almost disappeared from view.

home to what some astronomers are calling

However, in many rural areas

the last true dark skies in the United States.

across the United States, it’s still possible to

The park is also part of the National Park

find observatories and stargazing opportu-

Service’s Night Skies Program, with some

nities to embrace the night-sky experience.

campsites specifically designed to enhance

In Vermont, one of the best spots for

stargazing, with enough room for tele-

stargazing is New Discovery State Park in

scopes and tripods. During most summer

the Groton State Forest. The park has seven

nights, the Milky Way is visible to the naked

remote campsites for the ultimate dark-sky

eye, as are thousands of constellations,

experience. For a guided night-sky adven-

planets, nebulas and galaxies. nps.gov/grba

ture, check out the hosted astronomy events

tions. Kitt Peak National Observatory (near

On the Hawaiian island of Maui, the tall,

at Elmore State Park and Button Bay State

Tucson) boasts one of the world’s largest

dormant volcano of Mauna Kea is home to

Park. vtstateparks.com

arrays of telescopes, a visitor centre and

Haleakalā National Park, a sacred landscape

Starry heavens can also be viewed in all

nighttime stargazing program perched atop

featuring spectacular stargazing opportuni-

their celestial glory with only minimal intru-

a panoramic mountaintop. Flagstaff’s

ties and considered an outstanding

sion of artificial light at several remote Texas

Lowell Observatory—where Pluto was dis-

astronomical site due to low humidity, clear

parks. In the southwestern part of the state, Big

covered in 1930—still displays the original

skies and a lack of light pollution. There are

Bend National Park—the largest International

photographic telescope. On clear evenings,

13 working telescopes and only select tour

Dark Sky Park to date—has been awarded Gold

they bring out portable telescopes for public

companies are permitted to bring guests to

Tier designation by the International Dark-Sky

viewings. Also, Grand Canyon National Park

this mountaintop. Options include Mauna

Association (IDA) for skies that are “free from

was recently designated an International

Kea Summit Adventures and Arnott’s Lodge

all but the most minor impacts of light pollu-

Dark Sky Park. visitarizona.com

& Hiking Adventures. gohawaii.com

tion.” Measurements by the National Park

Utah is home to more accredited

In Bend, Oregon, Wanderlust Tours

Service Night Sky Team show that the Big Bend

International Dark Sky Parks and Commu-

offers Moonlight & Starlight Snowshoe

region offers the darkest measured skies in the

nities than any other destination on the

Tours and Moonlight & Starlight Canoe

lower 48 states. Big Bend hosts a stargazing

planet. Compass Rose Lodge, in Huntsville,

Tours. The Alvord Desert, in southeastern

program throughout the year and activities

has a brand-new observatory with starwalk

Oregon, offers some of the lowest light pol-

include night hikes and telescope viewing.

tours. The Canyon Country Discovery

lution in the continental USA, excellent for

visitbigbend.com

Center, in Monticello, has a twice-monthly,

a limitless star-filled sky. Other remote

Arizona prides itself on protecting the

public Dark Sky Discovery Series open

Oregon locations, perfect for celestial obser-

night-sky experience for future generations.

March through November. In Kanub,

vation, include Crater Lake, Mt. Hood or

The desert setting has several sites perfect

the Adventure Tour Company offers a

Dixie Butte. traveloregon.com

for night-sky observation due to the inky

S’mores

black skies, dry climate and higher eleva-

visitutah.com/places-to-go/dark-sky-parks

and

Star

Gazing

Discover more information on travel to the USA at visittheusa.ca.

14 DREAMSCAPES FALL 2019

DS

tour.

PHOTO: Kitt Peak Observatory in Arizona.

CRUISE THE

AEGEAN SEA LOOKING FOR A RELAXING, EFFICIENT WAY TO VISIT GREECE AND TURKEY HIGHLIGHTS IN A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME?

By Bruce Sach

O

ur cruise with Celestyal Cruises certainly fit the bill. The on-board services and meals offered by an

international crew were outstanding.

DELOS I was sitting in the theatre at the Delos island UNESCO site just a few miles from the neighbouring island of Mykonos, a centre for jetsetters from around the world.

The contrast could not have been greater.

The theatre, which could sit an estimated 5,500, sat empty, and this sacred island had only snakes and rats as inhabitants. At its height, Delos had a population of 30,000 in the early centuries BC and was considered the Manhattan of Antiquity.

How so? First, as a sacred site of Greek mythology and then, as a tax-free international port, Delos attracted attention from around Asia, Europe and Africa. It was truly a multicultural and multi-denominational society where, for example, the Poseido-

of Apollo. As a major offering, Macedonian

glorious this decrepit theatre must have been.

niastes League of Beirut and the Italian Society

King Philip (Alexander the Great’s father)

It was only when the Persians were finally

thrived. In short, it was the place to be!

built a massive laneway to demonstrate his

defeated that Athens gained importance as a

The island became known as a holy site

devotion to Apollo, thereby showing off his

new political, cultural and progressive force

for Hellenic cultures as legend stated that

wealth and power to the rest of humankind.

in the Hellenic world. By fighting in that war,

Apollo and his sister Artemis were born and

Our guide Vasilika explained the impor-

its ordinary citizens gained the right to full

raised here. So, over the centuries, pilgrims

tance of devotion to Dionysus, which led to

citizenship. So, democracy, another Greek

left offerings, large and small, at the Temple

the invention of theatre, a reminder of how

invention, was born.

18 DREAMSCAPES FALL 2019

BELOW: Oia, in all its splendour, is a typical town on the island of Santorini. RIGHT: The famous windmills of Mykonos. © Carole Jobin

Santorini, regardless of the time of day or

the crowds. Although Oia is a very heavily

night, is dramatic, to say the least. That’s

visited tourist town, our meal cost less than

because bleached, whitewashed towns, like

an ordinary meal at a local pub back home.

Fira and Oia, perched on top of a huge

In the less busy western part of town, we

caldera, appear like fine layers of snow

came upon a delightful Greek woman, Iota,

dumped on the dark, rocky cliffs.

and her tiny shop, where she sold quirky

Hard to say which, between Fira and Oia,

pottery. Another worthwhile stop was the

is the most spectacular. Both are immacu-

Atlantis bookstore, one of the best you’ll

lately white, topped off with the insanely

likely encounter anywhere in the world.

perfectly blue domes of numerous Greek And then began the decline of Delos.

Orthodox churches.

Both Santorini towns are bursting with art galleries, more so in Oia than in Fira, it

Today, it sits in splendid isolation, as jet

Oia was perhaps our favourite, although

seemed. Both towns feature stunning views

planes take off and land at nearby Mykonos.

we did our best to avoid the pricey part of

created by the volcanic eruption that

town where high-end shops like Dior,

occurred here in 1650 BC and spectacular

SANTORINI

Givenchy, Versace and Comme des Garçons

sunsets are almost guaranteed.

We spent two full days in what is easily one

line pure marble streets. Instead, we chose

Who can resist a trek along a live vol-

of the favourite islands for first-time visi-

to spend our time at a terraced restaurant,

cano? Although Nea Kameni hasn’t erupted

tors to Greece. The approach by boat to

Petrosia, for shade, a great view and to avoid

since 1950, it still smokes away and scaling

FALL 2019 DREAMSCAPES 19

RIGHT TOP: Lions stand guard at Delos, near Mykonos. RIGHT BOTTOM: The theatre at Ephesus, Turkey, has hosted modern-day musicians like Sting and Elton John. © Carole Jobin

it makes for an interesting, albeit challenging, hike in 30 to 40 C weather. Our excursion inevitably included a dip in the ocean at a spot between the two volcanic islands of Nea Kameni and Palea Kameni.

Here, hot springs in the ocean allowed us to easily swim from the cold refreshing waters to hotter thermal currents (and mud) in a jiffy. Many returned to the boat sporting faces painted with thermal mud.

For history lovers, a visit to Akrotiri is in order. More than one expert believes Santorini and Akrotiri are the site of the famed Atlantis.

TURKEY The final excursion on our Aegean Sea cruise brought us to Turkey where people recommended a visit to the ancient ruins of Ephesus near Kusadasi. Were they right!

This area is intimately tied to Greek history and has biblical connections. To our great surprise, a modern-day event has convinced many that Mary, Jesus’s mother, lived

The harbour was closed by AD 600 and the

and possibly died in Ephesus. A German nun

area ended up covered in mud, which kept it

accurately predicted the location of the

well-preserved. As visitors walk from the

Just as Delos gained and lost its moments

Virgin Mary’s home and she was later beati-

upper to the lower town, they are amazed at

of glory, so goes the story of Ephesus. In the

fied when her visions proved to be accurate.

the still evident beauty of the Greco-Roman

second century AD, it was a busy harbour

This most peaceful and wooded area of our

site. The Gate of Hercules separates the upper

and 300,000 people lived here. Today, it is

trip has become a pilgrimage site for both

and lower towns and frescoes bearing the

considered Europe’s most complete clas-

Christians and Muslims. Historical fact con-

original colours can be viewed.

sical metropolis although only a portion of

Sting and Elton John perform where St. Paul once preached!

firms that John the Apostle and St. Paul also

Statues to Nike (Victoria for the Romans)

the city has been excavated. It is considered

lived in the Ephesus area and it was here that

and Medusa are easily spotted near the

the best-preserved and grandest of Turkey’s

St. Paul enraged local silversmiths by

site’s ultimate masterpiece, the Library of

classical ruins. DS

declaring to the population it was wrong to

Celsus (AD 115), the third largest library in

worship idols. And why were his ideas dis-

the ancient world. At the very bottom of the

ruptive? Ephesus was an important harbour

site is one of the finest theatres in the

and pilgrimage centre, especially for those

Greco-Roman world, capable of seating

who honoured the goddess Artemis.

25,000 spectators. Today, musicians like

20 DREAMSCAPES FALL 2019

TRAVEL PLANNER For more information on this and other itineraries offered by Celestyal Cruises, visit celestyalcruises.com.

DS CELEBRITY TRAVEL CORNER >> BY CHRIS RYALL

VAN HALEN’S HIT SONG, “JUMP,” would personify Kurt Browning’s life and how he conducts it. Combining athleticism with unbridled passion, the four-time Canadian and four-time World Champion figure skater is in the Guinness World Records as the first person to land a quadruple jump in competition. Browning achieved this amazing feat at the 1988 World Championships in Budapest.

Jumping has been an integral part of Browning’s life since he was a toddler.

While growing up in Caroline, Alberta, he had to make a choice between playing hockey or figure skating. His father couldn’t afford both. Inspired by watching Toller Cranston on TV, Browning loved doing jumps and chose figure skating.

Q&A

At 53, he still performs around the world with Stars on Ice and other specials. In addition to his skating repertoire, Browning has been a choreographer, commentator, judge, mentor and producer for TV networks and skating productions. Browning’s latest venture is Head Judge for the popular returning CBC series, Battle of the Blades, which pairs hockey players with figure skaters in a highstakes figure-skating competition.

Awards and accolades have followed him throughout his career including the Lou Marsh Trophy for top Canadian Athlete, Order of Canada and inductions into Canada Sports Hall of Fame, Skate Canada Hall of Fame, World Figure Skating Hall of Fame and a star on Canada’s Walk of Fame.

Though Browning participated in the 1988,

WHAT’S THE MOST MAGICAL OR GREATEST MOMENT IN YOUR CAREER? Defending my title in Halifax at the 1990 World Championships with 10,000 people singing O Canada as loud as they could. To come from such a terrible year and weird injury, I just didn’t expect it to happen the way it did. It was beyond compare.

FAVOURITE CITY TO SKATE IN? There’s something about Halifax. I don’t really understand why. We have now, for a couple of decades, started Stars on Ice in Halifax.

They’re amazing. There were 16 standing ovations in one figureskating show.

WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO BRING BACK FROM TRIPS? I collect hats. Sometimes when I have a hat from a place, I put it on and I am transported back to that trip.

FAVOURITE FAMILY HOLIDAY DESTINATION? The four of us love Universal Studios. For some reason, we all resonate really well there. We get along, we like the lines and we love the Harry Potter series.

WHERE WOULD YOU HAVE YOUR LAST BEER? There’s a bar in Hogwarts (Wizarding World of Harry Potter, Uni-

PHOTO: COURTESY OF CBC

KURT BROWNING GETTING A JUMP ON LIFE 1992 and 1994 Olympics, a medal was his one elusive career achievement.

Married since 1996 to Sonia Rodriguez, a dancer with the National Ballet of Canada, Browning has two sons, Gabriel and Dillon. It’s unlikely they will follow in their father’s footsteps, which is fine with Browning. Just being a dad is priority No. 1. “I’m kind of wallowing in ‘Dad-ville’ right now,” says Browning.

Browning is content jumping and gliding from family, skating and TV responsibilities while still executing a perfect and graceful landing.

versal Studios) called the Hog’s Head and, if I were to have the last beer of my life, I would want to have it there. I would banish all the tourists, fill it with wizards and drink my last beer surrounded by magical fun.

HOW DO YOU RELAX? I like being on a lake. I like to jump off the dock into the water, have friends around, have a little sun on my face, play catch, and water ski and swim. That’s my nirvana.

EVER VISITED A SPA? I get work done on me like a car gets maintenance. I’m often getting that kind of attention but it’s usually really painful! They are digging a muscle out, straightening it out or putting it back in your body.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT CANADA? I love its diversity. I love that we have four seasons, but I think I just love the way Canadians ‘are.’ One of the best things about Canada is its people.

ANY DREAM DESTINATIONS? In the back of my mind I have this silly idea that someday I’m going to pick three or four amazing waterfalls around the world and I’m going to go see them and the countries they are in. DS

FALL 2019 DREAMSCAPES 21

DS TRAVEL SLEUTH >> BY JANE STOKES

EYE-POPPING

FALL TRIPS PACK YOUR SNEAKERS, TAKE A WALK AND BREATHE IT ALL IN.

22 DREAMSCAPES FALL 2019

AUTUMN COLOURS are known to be so

among the grandest displays on the planet.

radiant in the hills and vales of the Great

Our highways and byways may take us

Lakes’ waterways. Linger long, enthusiasts

there, but this year, don’t just view it from

say, because very soon and for just a few

the car. Head right into the forests and help

fleeting weeks, this northeast showcase of

yourself to revitalizing health benefits, free

largely red and orange maple trees might be

of charge, compliments of nature.

Forests are uplifting, we’re told, because every organism—large or small, seen or hidden—thrives on a constant energy exchange, a cycle-of-life triggered by the sun. The only thing we have to do to receive the very same replenishment in this magical landscape is listen, observe and deeply breathe in the oxygen-rich air.

Although it may appear serene, at the micro-level, foresters tell us, all of this peacefulness is pumped.

Even dying leaves, for instance, are still working hard to support the next life cycle.

In September, peak colour periods can be

To begin with, the slow change in leaf

tracked on websites like TripSavvy.com and

chemistry seems to repel certain insects

TheWeatherNetwork.com. For some, the

from

branches.

most talked-about spots may be close

Throughout the fall as well, deciduous

enough for a day trip. For longer more invig-

leaves send all of their energy-rich chloro-

orating getaways, consider these.

damaging

bark

and

OPPOSITE: Sainte-Adèle. Tourisme Laurentides ABOVE: Fall colours at Agawa Canyon Wilderness Park. Agawa Canyon Tours BELOW: Fall on the Confederation Trail. Tourism Prince Edward Island

phyll down to the roots so it can be sent green disappears, red, orange and purple

AGAWA CANYON WILDERNESS PARK

leaves create a dazzling last hurrah.

On the northeastern shore of Lake Supe-

back to budding leaves next spring. As the

Autumn in the Northern Hemisphere

rior, the Agawa River cuts through two

will soon be making large swaths of Asia,

towering vistas soon to be covered in full-

Scandinavia, Iceland and Europe all trek-

blown colour, as captured in paintings by

worthy. Meanwhile, right here in North

the Group of Seven. The easy walking

America, we’ll be exposed to no fewer than

nature trails also offer 372 steps to a

85 red-leaf species dominated by maples,

lookout platform at the top of the gorge.

red oak, cherry and dogwood trees.

The park is accessible only on foot or by

Those who prefer to drive to view the

tour train (agawatrain.com) from Sault Ste.

best of this colourful spectacle might envi-

Marie. Best colour is usually late-Sep-

sion a far-reaching circle. Start on the north

tember and seasonal events are posted at

shore of Lake Superior heading eastward

algomacountry.com.

and then south along the waterways of Ontario and Québec as far as the Atlantic

NIAGARA PARKWAY

Ocean. Turn south again through Maine and

The awe one experiences viewing Niagara

Vermont (and maybe more of New England)

Falls is apt to increase multifold along “the

before heading westward, perhaps through

prettiest Sunday afternoon drive in the

New York State, into the American heart-

world,” according to Winston Churchill.

land. Then just past Chicago, make a grand

This winding road follows the steep and

turn northbound back to Lake Superior. Or,

deeply forested banks of the Niagara River,

for more in-depth discoveries, consider

flanked by a mixed-use path for pedes-

driving segments of that route every fall.

trians and cyclists. Autumn-colour density

FALL 2019 DREAMSCAPES 23

is usually at its finest between Queenston

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

trails of Catskill Park, a network suitable for

and Niagara-on-the-Lake. Events like the

The people of PEI are renowned for their

every level of walking, cycling and hiking?

Niagara Grape & Wine Festival are posted at

warmth, so it’s little wonder all of the water-

Cloaked in maples, red oaks, birch and

niagaraonthelake.com.

ways are also warmer than expected,

beech trees, the park is a half-hour drive

resulting in the “longest fall foliage period”

from Albany and Oktoberfest music, food

LAURENTIAN MOUNTAINS

in North America. Better still, trekking on

and drink entertain leaf-peepers over four

Just north of Montréal, countless road-

this island is bear-free, which adds a unique

weekends according to visitthecatskills.com.

ways lead to mountainous peaks and

measure of safety, and the forests are

trails where the resorts, recreation and

hunter-free mainly because there are no

public parks are most welcoming. The

deer or moose. From Nova Scotia connect

MISSISSIPPI PALISADES STATE PARK, ILLINOIS

Laurentian foothills actually begin in

by ferry or drive across the Confederation

On the southwest side of the Great Lakes sits

Eastern Ontario, climb to the highest

Bridge from New Brunswick. Come any

another colour bonanza as well as the

peaks near Québec City and soon descend

time in September for the PEI Fall Flavours

chance to lay your eyes on a legend. The

gradually in a kaleidoscope of colour all

Culinary Festival posted at tourismpei.com.

Mississippi River cuts through this park, reminding us of frontier discoveries,

the way to the Atlantic Ocean. The mountain-bound roads are well-signed along

CATSKILL PARK, NEW YORK

including the perpetual “palisades” drama

the north shore of the St. Lawrence River

Bright reds, amber and golden-bronze make

of riverside cliffs, caves, wooded ravines

as far as Labrador. Until mid-October, the

the Catskill Mountains a stand-out “must-

and rock formations. The Apple and Missis-

F.U.N. Fest in Sommet Saint-Sauveur is

see.” The full mountain range covers

sippi rivers converge on the parkland

one of many enticing events posted at

thousands of square kilometres so why not

located near Savanna, Illinois. Fall events

laurentides.com.

familiarize yourself first on the marked

are listed at visitnorthwestillinois.com.

BELOW: Greene County Farmers’ Market at Catskill Park, New York. www.GreatNorthernCatskills.com

24 DREAMSCAPES FALL 2019

DS

MIXING IT UP IN

MEXICO IN A DEPARTURE FROM MY TYPICAL BEACH VACATIONS IN MEXICO, I RECENTLY VENTURED INLAND TO EXPLORE THE SOUTH-CENTRAL STATE OF MICHOACÁN, DUBBED “THE SOUL OF MEXICO.”

ABOVE: Descendants of the ancient Purépecha tribe proudly preserve their culinary traditions and culture.

Editorial & photography by E. Lisa Moses

M

ichoacán bares its essence in

(skeletal dolls). And nature adds to the mix

festivities and food, customs

with migrating monarch butterflies win-

and crafts—and a deep defer-

tering in El Rosario, rare hummingbirds

ence to a long history and vivid culture.

congregating

around

the

ruins

of

Testaments to its unique spirit of place are

Tzintzuntzan, and legendary white fish

Pueblos Magicos (historically significant

feeding the population around Lake

towns that offer visitors a “magical” experi-

Patzcuáro.

ence), local carnitas (pork delicacies) and

Our route followed in the footsteps of

artisanal offerings that range from pottery,

local hero Don Vasco de Quiroga, who in

woodcarvings and Purépecha Empire tex-

1536 became the first bishop of the newly

tiles to modern folk art such as catrinas

established diocese of Michoacán. He made

FALL 2019 DREAMSCAPES 25

it his mission to repair the extensive

centuries-old structures, feeds the architec-

behind two floors of arched doorways off a

damage to the area inflicted by Spanish con-

tural soul with a blend of Spanish

courtyard shaded by palms and other trop-

quistador Nuño de Guzmán and rebuild the

Renaissance, Baroque and neoclassical ele-

ical flora. In another lovely yard, the

natives’ livelihoods and lifestyles. His

ments.

historic

boutique Hotel de la Soledad offers guests

utopian dream led to the creation of hospi-

monuments are the Morelia Cathedral,

exclusive spaces for lunching and lounging.

tals, educational facilities and systems to

which dominates the skyline from afar, and

The Municipal Palace, originally home to

care for the poor. Around Lake Patzcuáro, he

the 18th-century aqueduct built during a

the Offices for the Regulation and Sales of

established collectives where highly trained

drought to bring water to the city.

Tobacco, boasts an octagonal courtyard.

Among

the

largest

Purépecha craftspeople passed their skills

I was enchanted by the secluded outdoor

And featuring sprawling stone terraces for

along to their descendants, who still believe

living and working spaces. A wide-ranging

surveying the city is the hacienda-style Villa

his spirit inhabits the lake.

network of serene open-air courtyards and

Montaña Hotel & Spa built high into a hill.

porticos greeted me when I stepped through

Adding to the city’s artistic sensibility are

MORELIA

the doors of stone buildings butting up

fashion-conscious residents favouring Euro-

The capital of Michoacán, this city of about

against busy city sidewalks. They revealed

pean chic. From babies to grannies, they strut

a million inhabitants has a distinct Euro-

restaurants, shops, galleries and schools.

their stylish stuff along boulevards, city

pean aura. Its historic centre, a renowned

For example, classrooms in the Michoacán

squares and streets. They dine for hours on

UNESCO World Heritage Site of some 200

University of Saint Nicholas of Hidalgo are

fine cuisine in elegant restaurants, many of which display local works of art. Imaginative chefs prepared intriguing dishes for our little group that included chocolate-grilled steak, chicharrón (fried pork rinds) and white refried beans. Meals were often accompanied by award-winning wines from Baja California and followed by shots of mezcal to help with digestion. A classic dessert was Pastel de Elote, a sweet corn cake.

PATZCUÁRO Designated one of Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos, Patzcuáro is about a 45-minute drive from Morelia. Famous for its Night of the Dead celebrations that are considered by UNESCO an Intangible Cultural Heritage, the town explodes every November with visitors, flowers, candles, markets and skeleton costumes to observe the festival.

The magic for me happened on an ordinary day around Plaza de Quiroga, the central square where families and friends congregate after work, kids and pets run

LEFT: Lake fishing in Patzcuáro. OPPOSITE TOP: The aqueduct in Morelia dates back to the 18th century.

26 DREAMSCAPES FALL 2019

around freely, and classical music plays quietly from discreet speakers beside each stone bench. At dusk, everyone pauses to watch the street lights go on in the park and the town.

Surrounding the square, arched porticos frame ancient stone buildings that have been converted into shops, restaurants and boutique hotels. The Casa del Naranjo hotel on a historic corner evokes the gracious aristocratic lifestyle. In its restaurant, a tall orange tree reaches for the sky from the floor, while a polished wood banister takes guests up to spacious, well-appointed rooms.

As a history and architecture buff, I was fascinated by the remains of 17th- and 18thcentury buildings that house art displays and host various artistic performances. A former convent, the Casa de los Once Patios (House of Eleven Courtyards) is now home to workshops where artists and craftspeople use time-honoured skills to create high-quality wares, and to shops where deals can be had. On a steep hill overlooking

specializing in traditional Purépecha dishes

Friday to cook a traditional community

the town centre is the Basilica de Nuestra

prepare meals in small village eateries, while

lunch, socialize and eat together in the old

Señora de la Salud—Patzcuáro’s patron saint

students from culinary arts schools come to

way. The air is fragrant with the aroma of

who some believe performs miracles. The

observe and learn. Specialties include home-

chicken soup boiling in a big cauldron, while

cathedral is also the final resting place of

made cheese and sour cream, atole (a thick,

rhythmic slapping sounds signify corn tor-

sweet, corn-based drink) and tarasca soup

tillas being made by hand. The families’

made with pinto beans.

community spirit and generosity extended

Don Vasco de Quiroga.

SANTA FE DE LA LAGUNA

Within the ruins of the courtyard of the th

to us, as they offered bowls of soup, cooked

An easy 27 kilometres down the road is an

16 -century Hospital de Indios financed by

vegetables, fruit and bottles of pop. All sum-

indigenous community where, in contrast

Bishop Vasco, several families gather every

ming up the true Mexican soul.

to the cities, residents take great pains to make time stand still. Descendants of the ancient Purépecha tribe proudly preserve their traditions and culture, from language and pottery-making to cuisine and clothing.

Visitors can live the culture at a number of adobe-and-tile hostels owned and operated by local women trained in the hospitality business by the Michoacán tourism secretariat. At the pristine Hostal Tzipekua, for example, guests are treated like family, so

DS

TRAVEL PLANNER Michoacán’s capital, Morelia, is about an hour’s flight from Mexico City, the centre of the country’s flight universe. Commuter flights are offered by several airlines, including Aeroméxico (aeromexico.com) and Aeromar (aeromar.mx). On the ground, private tour operators offer a range of experiences and English-speaking guides. For those who favour “Spanish immersion,” inexpensive public buses also criss-cross the state. For more information, consult your travel agent or search michoacan.travel.

For hotel information, visit: Hotel Casa del Naranjo: hotelcasadelnaranjo.com Hotel de la Soledad: hoteldelasoledad.com Villa Montaña Hotel & Spa: villamontana.com.mx

they are never alone. Award-winning cooks

FALL 2019 DREAMSCAPES 27

DS TRAVEL GALLERY >> BY CYNTHIA DAVID

T BEACHWOOD RESORT

S

ituated in the heart of the Kawartha Lakes, just two hours northeast of Toronto, Beachwood Resort has been welcoming guests for more than 90 years to the peaceful shores of beautiful Buckhorn Lake, where the quiet surroundings are cloaked in a blaze of vibrant fall colours. The noise and activities of summer have been replaced with the scent of fresh crisp air and gorgeous trails perfect for strolls through Mother Nature’s lively palette await you. Here, you can enjoy lakeside lodgings year-round with flexible family, romantic or wedding packages as well as the use of all the on-site season-appropriate recreational activities at your disposal. In between, savour the fine country cuisine in the charming atmosphere of Frederick’s as you relax and take in a panoramic view of Lake Buckhorn. BeachwoodResort.com

he Arctic expedition company Adventure Canada has launched a new loyalty program, called League of Adventurers, to encourage repeat travel and celebrate its avid expeditioners. Repeat guests, and there are many, were recognized on an Ireland circumnavigation cruise. First-time guests are automatically entered into the loyalty program at the Adventurer level. Members booking their second to fifth expeditions gain Voyager status, which comes with a five per cent discount on future bookings, while members with six or more sailings achieve Explorer status, with benefits including a 10 per cent discount. Expeditions sailed within the last 30 years qualify for the League program; however, benefits only apply to 2019 bookings and onwards. adventurecanada.com

DAVID MINTY

A

brand new, $1 billion world-class terminal complex is expected to open this fall at the Louis Armstrong International Airport in New Orleans. Covering 90,300 square metres, the new terminal will replace the current facility and feature three concourses, 35 gates and a consolidated checkpoint to ensure an easier and more efficient security process. An in-line baggage system will allow passengers to drop off checked baggage at the ticket counter. The airport garage also provides 2,190 parking spaces plus surface parking. Gift and food shops representing local and American brands will be located in the centre aisle of each concourse.

Favourites include Shake Shack, Mondo, Leah’s Kitchen and Midway Pizza. flymsy.com

SHAW FESTIVAL

A

dd a dramatic twist to the holidays with a trip to the Shaw Festival in Niagara-on-the-Lake. Previews begin November 13 for Charles Dickins’ A Christmas Carol at the Royal George Theatre. Starring Michael Therriault as Scrooge, this holiday chestnut has sold out for the past two seasons. Continuing the festive magic, the Festival Theatre also presents Irving Berlin’s Holiday Inn, based on the famous film. Timeless tunes include Heat Wave, Blue Skies, Cheek to Cheek and White Christmas. Previews for this play begin November 16 and the season ends December 22. Just for the fun of it, sign up for Shaw’s two Beyond the Stage offerings: Tap Dance for Dummies and Holiday Inn Trivia. shawfest.com LOUIS ARMSTRONG NEW ORLEANS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

28 DREAMSCAPES FALL 2019

DS TRAVEL GALLERY >> BY CYNTHIA DAVID

DS WEB LISTING >> Adventure Canada ..................................................................3 www.adventurecanada.com

Best Western Hotels & Resorts ....................................16, 32 www.bestwestern.com

Cartier Place Suite Hotel, Ottawa........................................11 www.suitedreams.com

Dukoral ....................................................................................31 www.dukoralcanada.com

Jamaica ......................................................................................2 www.visitjamaica.com COURTESY GTAA

New Orleans, LA ....................................................................15

T

oronto Pearson is the first airport in Canada using technology to improve accessibility for travellers who are blind or partially sighted. Aira, a mobile phone app, connects passengers to a specially trained agent who works remotely to help them navigate through the airport. The app can be downloaded for free from Google Play or the Apple App Store. The service also works with Aira Horizon videoequipped smart glasses. torontopearson.com/aira

www.neworleans.com

Simcoe County, ON ................................................................6 www.experience.simcoe.ca

Trafalgar Tours ........................................................................7 www.trafalgar.com

L

ooking to experience something quirky and out of the ordinary this fall? Grab your camera and join in the fun as madness takes over the streets of Key West from October 18 to 27 when the city celebrates the 40th anniversary of the internationally renowned masking and costuming festival, Fantasy Fest. Themed “In Tune But … Off Key,” the event is an exotic extravaganza featuring masquerade balls, costume competitions, street fairs, performance art, glamorous galas and an over-the-top grand parade through part of Old Town, which nearly 70,000 spectators are expected to attend. Even pets in costume get to strut their stuff at the wacky, crowdpleasing Pet Masquerade on October 23. fantasyfest.com

VISIT CALIFORNIA

S

ometimes the best things about travel are the culinary delights we discover along the way. If you’re heading to California this fall, you’ll definitely want to check out the first-ever Eat + Drink Week taking place in West Hollywood from October 18 to 27. Highlights include a dozen eateries recently recognized in the 2019 California Michelin Guide as well as a host of other innovative chefs in the industry. The event will also showcase West Hollywood’s robust craft cocktail culture, featuring an impressive collection of hot spots ranging from Old Hollywood camp and A-list trendsetters to gritty back alley bars and swanky Boystown lounges. Throughout the event, restaurants will feature special menus and pricing. eatanddrinkweek.com

30 DREAMSCAPES FALL 2019

ROB O’NEAL/FLORIDA KEYS NEWS BUREAU/HO