Travel - Globetrotter Magazine - Issue 5

From the Editor

Trevor Claringbold

With summer just around the corner, if you haven’t already, now is the time to start planning your upcoming trips. As always, we have plenty of inspiration for you in this issue, with glorious tropical beaches, a city break on the very edges of Europe, and a historic getaway that was a favourite of Beethoven, amongst others.

But, talking to many destinations and travel insiders in recent weeks, there are also a wealth of new and interesting trends for this year.

We mentioned in the previous issue the drive towards more experiential travel, where the destination is not so important, but what you can do when you are there is the driving factor. This is true for both staycations and overseas trips. Health travel has also grown in the type of opportunities it now offers, with combined hiking and wellness trips, or a kayaking-and yoga partnership for example. And film tourism has also seen an increase, with people travelling to visit places from their favourite film and TV locations.

As always, different destinations suddenly come to the fore as well. Gleaming new resorts are springing up on the Saudi Arabian coast of the Red Sea, for example, and off-grid getaways to remote regions of Canada have also begun attracting more young travellers – believed to be as a result of the BBC’s ‘Race Across the World’ TV series.

Are you the type of traveller who loves somewhere new and different? Or someone who prefers the safety of a tried and tested destination? Let us know your travel plans via our social media pages!

Happy travels!

Loch Tay, Scotland

Meet The Team

John is our Marketing Manager and Star Wars fan. He loves travelling to sunny places as long as the meals available don’t involve fish. Defines himself as a holidaymaker, not a traveller.

Anca is our Art Director and photo fanatic. She likes snow but is a lover of water and swiming as well, hence why she prefers warmer destinations for travelling.

Brittany takes a huge interest in environmental well-being and is educated in wildlife conservation. She loves meeting new people from all walks of life and has made it her mission to connect with many different cultures around the world.

Polina loves books, snakes and travelling. She collects early editions of classic novels, and will spend hours searching second hand bookshops. Her favourite destination? Anywhere with a nice pool!

Brittany Nagora

Polina Rudichenko

Anca Precub

John Plaskett

8 A Taste of Bruges

CONTENTS

IN THIS ISSUE...

32 Vienna’s Vivacious Neighbour - Behind the scenes -

Brittany Nagora and Callum Browne take a quick trip to the capital of West Flanders, and experience some great flavours...

62 Discovering Winchester

Anca Precub experiences the delights on offer during a weekend stay in the picturesque city of Winchester.

74 New Brunswick - Land of Lobsters -

How much can Lobsters really impact a region? It’s a strange question and Trevor Claringbold heads to Canada in search of the answer.

Find out what it’s like to film a TV episode that reveals a little known marvel in Austria. Trevor Claringbold goes behind the scenes.

12 Around Loch Lomond

We circumnavigate one of Scotland’s most famous lochs, and discover an amazing variety of intriguing locations, before heading out on the majestic waters themselves.

20 Baku Beyond

The Azerbaijani capital is on the extreme edge of Europe, and is little known to most British travellers. So what surprises does it hold? We find out.

A Taste of Bruges

AS CAPITAL OF WEST FLANDERS, THE CITY OF BRUGES IS ONE OF THE MOST VISITED CITIES IN BELGIUM. THE PICTURESQUE MEDIEVAL STREETS, AND QUAINT CANALS DRAW VISITORS ALL YEAR ROUND.

IT HAS ALWAYS HAD A REPUTATION FOR IT’S FOOD AND DRINK, AND THIS CAN TAKE MANY FORMS, AS BRITTANY NAGORA AND CALLUM BROWNE DISCOVER.

Don’t plan on watching your waistline when visiting this appetizing little city; you’ll be glad you didn’t. Beer, chocolate, waffles or frites: all these foods represent a part of Belgian history, and whether you’re looking for a sweet or salty treat, you can indulge your taste buds in delicious Bruges.

Within this charming medieval town, you will feel welcome, welkom, bienvenue, and willkommen. Bruges is an inclusive, multilingual attraction where cultures meet and mix to create an experience unique to Belgium.

CHOCOLATE!!!

Chocolate and sweets can be found on almost every street in the centre of Bruges, and their meticulously arranged window displays make it difficult to get anywhere without blinking and finding yourself inside yet another chocolate emporium.

Despite the number of chocolatiers present throughout the city though, every one has something different to offer, be it large trays of glossy pralines ordered in regimental rows, impressive artistic statue-like creations, or even 18+ designs for those travelling with a special someone. Every form of Belgian chocolate can be sourced from somewhere in Bruges.

Those who want to get involved more directly in their chocolate adventure can try out the Belgium Chocolate Workshop on Ezelstraat. This fun and informative chocolate making class teaches you the art and science of Belgian style chocolate making, by producing your own tray of personalised pralines, as well as some freestyle decorating of mendiants.

You may also be lucky enough - or unfortunate enough, depending on your anxiety levels - to be picked to assist in making the batch of fresh ganache for the group. With knowledgeable and helpful instructors, all the equipment and ingredients ready on arrival, and a very fashionable apron waiting for you, any chocolate fan will enjoy this experience.

BEER!!!

The Belgians have a beer culture to rival any of their neighbours, and Bruges is a champion for offering choice. From bars and pubs, large and small, obvious or tucked away, to multiple breweries within the city itself, and a dedicated beer museum, Bruges has enough to keep any beer connoisseur busy for weeks.

The bars of Bruges have draught selections to put even the most extravagant British pubs to shame. Impressive copper taps stretch the length of the bar with inviting dew, dripping down the plethora of beer labels to choose from. From lagers and pilsners, to traditional dark doubles and sweet triples, to Abbey beers and local ales, the range of cold refreshing nectars to sample and enjoy is near endless. With every flavour of establishment to pick from, be it trendy student spots with great music, or relaxing basement pubs with wise landlords, you’ll find a spot to match your vibe.

Additionally, for those wanting to expand their understanding of beer beyond the use of their tastebuds, the Bruges Beer Experience is an interactive, multisensory journey through the history of beer and brewing. With your tablets in hand, you will wander through walls of historic labels and signs, displays of brewing artifacts and interactive games and quizzes. You’ll find samples of hop and barley varieties to touch and smell, a selection of common aromatics to take in, and even a giant yeast strain to inspect. Every exhibit cues a prompt on your tablet to play a video or audio track, to guide you through what’s before you.

As you near the end of the bier museum, you will find a fun area to explore at your leisure, with exhibits like an interactive globe, a circlet of Trappist abbey beers and even a green screen camera where you can climb into a traditional beer cart and take some happy snaps.

Once you finally run out of things to do and see, you’ll be guided into the museum’s bar and gift shop where tastings are offered and your happy snaps from the beer cart can be produced as personalised beer labels for a bottle of local Bruges triple. The Bier Museum is a must for any true beer fan.

FRITES!!

With all this beer on hand, it’s inevitable that you’ll eventually be looking for a food accompaniment to complete the day. For this, the people of Bruges turn to Frites. Crispy golden Belgian fries are served up across the city, with their traditional condiments of ketchup and mayonnaise. Lovers of the noble potato will be well served on the streets of Bruges, guided to carby bliss by the scent of fresh frites just waiting for you.

WAFFLES!!!

The final foodie must-try in Bruges is the ubiquitous Belgian waffle. With stalls around the city centre serving fresh from the iron waffles and numerous topping options, your only struggle will be to not eat your own bodyweight in these crunchy and soft, sweet, warm desserts. Whether you order a simple chocolate drizzle, or an Instagram friendly tower of strawberries, cream and sauces, you’ll spend the rest of your life trying to reproduce the authentic Belgian waffle. Unfortunately, there’s simply no way to truly match the taste and experience of a Belgian waffle – and it’s not a secret they are going to give away!

AFTER YOU’VE EATEN!!

When you’re finally done making your personal trainer cry, Bruges has plenty more to offer travellers. From the dominating Belfry tower and it’s 366 steps, to the ominous Torture Museum, there’s something to interest everyone. Boat trips on the canals are incredibly popular, and a visit to one of the famous lace shops is a must.

Art lovers can take in the Salvidor Dali Museum, while military history buffs can take a short trip out to the port of Zeebrugge to witness the WWI Zeebrugge Raid memorial. Lastly, architecture fans are spoilt for choice across Bruges, medieval guildhalls and cathedrals, quaint townhouses, impressive academies, and modern statements all come together to make up Bruges’s unique style.

If you’re needing a break from walking the stone streets, the Markt hosts a fleet of horse drawn carriages, offering eclectic tours of the town centre and a chance to rest weary feet. The accommodation options are also greatly varied, including quirky themed B&Bs, old-world hotels and more. Your stay can be tailored to you, and no two travellers will experience the same Bruges.

A Wet Weekend around Loch Lomond.

Let’s be clear. If you’re visiting Scotland in April, chances are you will encounter rain. But, as Trevor Claringbold finds out, there is plenty of natural beauty still to be found under those grey clouds.

Just a few miles out of Glasgow, north of the Clyde estuary, the town of Balloch sits at the southern end of Loch Lomond. It’s a quiet, pleasant town, surrounded by a few gentle hills typical for Scotland’s lowlands. However, travel just 22 miles to the northern tip of the loch, and you are already unmistakenly into the Highlands, with impressive peaks on all sides.

Loch Lomond is the largest lake in Great Britain by surface area, and its unique location spanning the transition from lowlands to highlands has made it a favourite for visitors and locals alike. It is long and narrow, with a sprinkling of islands that are home to all manner of wildlife.

The best way to really get a feel for the loch is to take one of the relaxing cruises, which not only know all the best places to see, but are blessed with friendly, knowledgeable crews who are keen to share their local knowledge. Even on a chilly, wet April’s morning, a trip with Cruise Loch Lomond was entertaining, informative, and fun. Meandering around the islands in the south of the loch, we were fortunate to see one of the first ospreys of the new season. These huge birds make their homes in the trees surrounding the loch, and there is a keen rivalry amongst the boats to be the first to see one after their winter migration.

waters ahead of us. The highlands are a magnet for hikers, climbers, and even mountain bikers, with an extensive network of paths and trails. When the weather is good, the views from the top of these mountains are spectacular, with glorious views of the loch, and beyond.

As we cruise further north, the mountains begin to appear out of the low-laying clouds, reflecting in the serene

Nearby is Ben Lomond, which at 974 metres is the most southerly of the Munro mountains in Scotland. Take great care if you are planning on climbing any of the mountains beyond the safe lower paths. Take local advice, and if possible go with a registered guide.

Staying beside Loch Lomond also gives great opportunities to head out to explore further afield. There are ferries from the village taking you out to the nearby island of Inchcailloch, and you are perfectly placed to travel to other parts of the National Park, and beyond.

A few miles to the south is Dumbarton Castle, which, with the rain still persisting, seemed like a good place to get some cover. It sits high up on what is known as Dumbarton Rock, a 240 feet tall granite mound, which has been strategically important since the Iron Age, overlooking the estuary of the mighty River Clyde. Early inhabitants were already of sufficient standing to be trading with the Romans, and the 5th Century structure remained as a fortress until it succumbed to Irish-based Vikings in 871.

The castle has associations with many of the Scottish Kings, and it was also the place where Mary Queen of Scots considered a safe haven before her eventual escape to France. Today visitors can feel much safer, although you can still climb the White Tower Crag to spot any invaders! You can also tour the impressive Georgian era Governor’s House, and tour the artillery fortifications, with more grand views over the river.

Keen to see more of the region, and with clear blue skies in the distance, we headed west towards them along pretty winding roads. There are picturesque stone bridges, gently rippling streams, and imposing dark stone country houses. We arrive at the small waterside town of Inverary, a town founded in the mid-1700’s by the Campbell clan. The iconic, white-painted Georgian buildings line the quayside, with

busy antique shops and atmospheric pubs. The town sits on the edge of Loch Fyne, a long, narrow inlet from the sea. The hills on the opposite side give a stunning backdrop to the deep blue waters, and brightly coloured fishing boats.

The austere looking Old Jail and Courthouse, set back from the main street, has been converted to an award-winning museum, bringing to life the tales of a medieval prison, up to the 19th Century. There is also a worthwhile walk to nearby Inverary Castle, the home of the Dukes of Argyll. There are many marked paths through the extensive grounds, with the highest rising to over 800 feet, and giving spectacular views.

Continuing our tour, we head past the sparkling waters of Loch Awe, towards the snow-capped peaks in the distance. Rough, hilly fields with Aberdeen Angus cattle, and the occasional small crofters stone cottage, and swathes of colourful gorse bushes create that perfect stereotypical image of Scotland. Around 20 minutes from the northern end of Loch Lomond, the road turns tightly to cross an old 19th Century stone bridge to the village of Killin. There is a roar from the turbulent waters, and where the broad river splits around some small islands, it creates a wild, spectacular set of rapids.

These are the Falls of Dochart, and the little island in the centre is known as Inchbuie. Legend has it that it was the traditional burial ground for the Macnab Clan – although

crossing to the island to bury someone may well have put further lives in danger!

The falls themselves are mesmerising, with the pounding noise and constant spray adding to the rumbling you feel through the ground, making sure it touches all of your senses. The water thunders under the bridge, and on down the valley to feed the glorious Loch Tay. Take care on the bridge, as it is quite narrow, and used by traffic too, but there are also great views from both banks for 100 yards or more upstream.

When you have eventually seen the falls, and probably photographed them from every conceivable angle, pop into the warm and inviting Falls of Dochart Inn, right beside the falls, for a warm drink or some hearty food.

Even when the weather is uncertain, the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park is a region the keeps on giving. A weekend isn’t really enough, but in truth a month would still leave you wanting more. Whatever time you have, get out, explore, meet the locals, and make a note of all the places they tell you to see next time! You’ll be glad you did.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

In the village of Balmaha, there are a number of excellent self catering cottages, many with views across the Loch.

The ones we stayed in were simply called ‘The Cottages’, and are spacious, well equipped, comfortable and beautifully laid out with large patio doors facing the water, and a balcony with seating. The have their own private parking area, and are just a couple of minutes walk from the centre of the village.

They, like many in the village, are owned and managed by the Oak Tree Inn, which has 42 rooms between the inn itself and various village buildings. It also happens to offer a superb breakfast.

The Oak Tree Inn is in the heart of Balmaha, right beside Loch Lomond. It is a large, extremely popular pub and restaurant, which is full of that traditional Scottish hospitality. It has twice won the award for Scotland’s Best Pub, as well as the prize for Family Inn of the Year. It also doubles as the village shop, and an ice cream parlour!

The Oak Tree Inn is also rightly proud of its sustainability record, with more than 240 solar panels powering much of the site, and EV charging points for visitors.

The cuisine is some of the best traditional pub food, prepared like you have never tasted before. Don’t miss the outlandish Oak Tree Classic Burger, which is about the same height as your pint glass!

The restaurant is always busy, so it is advisable to book in advance if you are planning to eat here.

www.theoaktreeinn.co.uk

USEFUL LINKS:

LOCH LOMOND CRUISES

www.cruiselochlomond.co.uk

LOCH LOMOND AND THE TROSSACHS TOURIST OFFICE

www.lochlomond-trossachs.org

VISIT SCOTLAND

www.visitscotland.com

THE COTTAGES, BALMAHA

www.theoaktreeinn.co.uk

DUMBARTON CASTLE

www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/ dumbarton-castle/

FALLS OF DOCHART INN

www.fallsofdochart.co.uk

HIPCAMP LAUNCHES A NEW DARK SKIES MAP FILTER FOR STARGAZERS

Outdoor stays specialist, Hipcamp, has launched a useful new map filter highlighting the best camping and glamping spots to enjoy dark skies. Designed to accommodate the growing interest in Astro tourism, the map makes it possible to search out places to stay with low light pollution, which is perfect for stargazing.

Using the map in dark sky mode you can select places to stay, and it even recommends specific places to book your trip for during key astronomical dates. From Dark Sky Reserves to luxury glamping, to hammock stays sleeping under the stars, or going back to nature in a treehouse – there are lots of ways to enjoy the UK’s darkest skies and celestial wonders. Hipcamp has suggested a few of the best:

SEEING THE MILKY WAY FROM THE WYE VALLEY STARGAZERS GLAMPING IN HEREFORDSHIRE

This Wye Valley location offers lotus bell tents set in the mature gardens of a Georgian country house. The views take in the Welsh mountains, open fields and forest, with starry night skies particularly joyful as each tent has its own telescope powerful enough to view the Milky Way and transparent ceiling panels so you can view the stars from your bed.

CELESTIAL FAMILY STAYS AT CLEDAN VALLEY IN POWYS, WALE S

Nestled amidst the tranquil landscapes of Powys within the Cambrian Mountains, this family-run site offers a sanctuary enveloped by meadows, woodlands, and a nearby stream. The selection of outdoor activities is extensive, from biking and hiking to boating on Lake Clywedog by day, to stargazing by night.

WI-FI FREE NIGHTS UNDER THE STARS AT MILTON FARM HIDEAWAY, SUFFOLK

Tucked away in the idyllic countryside of Suffolk, Milton Farm Hideaway offers a unique opportunity for guests to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with nature under the vast starlit skies. With no Wi-Fi available, visitors can truly immerse themselves in the tranquillity of the surrounding landscape and gaze up at the celestial wonders above, accommodated in giant bell tents and a cosy shepherd’s hut.

WILD HAMMOCK CAMPING AND STARGAZING IN WALES

For adventurous souls seeking an unforgettable stargazing experience, Wild Hammock Camping in Wales offers the perfect retreat. Located in the heart of Snowdonia National Park, this secluded campsite provides guests with the opportunity to sleep under the stars in hammocks suspended between towering trees. With no light pollution to obscure the view, visitors can marvel at the brilliance of the night sky and perhaps even catch a glimpse of the Milky Way.

TREEHOUSE STAYS UNDER THE STARS AT THE BLUE POOL, DORSET

For a one-of-a-kind experience, check out The Blue Pool in Dorset, where you can go back to nature and spend a night in a charming treehouse. Nestled among the treetops and surrounded by the natural beauty of the heathland, the treehouses offer panoramic views of Poole Harbour. It’s an enchanting retreat, perfect for couples seeking a romantic getaway.

DISNEY CRUISE LINE GOES WORLDWIDE FOR ‘25

Disney Cruise Line has announced a new, extended programme for 2025, including, for the first time ever, European sailings to the Mediterranean and Northern Europe on board the Disney Fantasy.

The Disney Fantasy will be visiting the Mediterranean from May to late July, including Barcelona, Rome, Malta and a special 12-night sailing to the Greek Islands. From late July to September, the ship will sail from Southampton in the UK offering 3, 4 and 5-night sailings to numerous destinations including Spain, Norway and around the British Isles.

If you are looking further afield, the Disney Wonder will once again embark on adventures to Alaska from Vancouver, Canada, encountering the breathtaking natural beauty of the last frontier, with excursions to

NEW ACCESS FEE TO ENTER VENICE COMES INTO FORCE.

Starting on 25th April this year (2024), visitors to the ancient city of Venice will have to pay a €5 ‘Access Fee’ on the busiest days. There are exemptions for anyone merely transiting the port or train station, but it will apply to everyone visiting the main tourist areas of the historic island.

For this year, it applies mostly to special event days, holidays, and summer weekends, but it is widely expected to be expanded to more days in the future. The fee applies

INTRIGUING NEW PROGRAMME OF EVENTS FOR THE NORFOLK BROADS

Fancy having a conversation with a family of owls in the dark? Discover which fungi, insects and plants glow under UV lights, or follow in the footsteps of Norfolk naturalist Ted Ellis, on a shoreline beachcomb? The Broads Authority has just released its programme of events for this spring, summer and autumn, including two evening wildlife explorations at Barton Broad suitable for wheelchair users.

There are a series of walks with Broads Rangers, where they share their knowledge of boating, nature and the Broads, including a summer solstice walk, dawn chorus walk, a visit to the picturesque hut (eel set) of former eel catchers.

Join a wild foraging walk around How Hill Nature Reserve, followed by a three course summer afternoon tea, or an evening walk discovering the bats and moths that live around the reserve. Or opt for a guided walk to look at mushrooms, find out about fungi and scream with the spores! You can even explore the fascinating world of UV

Alaska’s majestic glaciers and gold mining relics. And four Disney Cruise Line ships will sail from Florida to different Caribbean destinations.

Disney’s prices include full board meals, inclusive entertainment on board, taxes, fees and port charges.

For more information visit disneycruise.co.uk

from 8.30am to 4.00pm on all the relevant days. The Access Fee is apparently being introduced to deter visitors on the busiest days, and enhance the environmental protection for the historic city. It will not apply if you have accommodation booked within the island, or to the outlaying islands such as Murano.

You should pay online before you travel, and ensure you have the QR code or voucher (which are named and nontransferable) to hand on arrival.

For all the details and to pay the fee, visit: https://cda.veneziaunica.it/en

lights and biofluorescence at Barton Broad.

Biofluorescence is a unique phenomenon where certain organisms emit light in different colours. This guided walk will uncover this captivating natural phenomenon up close. With UV torches you will see how fungi, insects and plants come alive with vibrant hues of green, blue, red, purple, orange, and more.

For these events and many more, see the Broads Authority’s Eventbrite webpage: https://www.eventbrite.com/o/broadsauthority-29218269141

Reveal Nature

BAKU BEYOND

At the beginning of this century, Baku was somewhere that most people had hardly heard of. Since then, Azerbaijan’s capital has been popping up all over the place, hosting major athletics events, the Eurovision Song Contest, and even one of the newest Grand Prix’s on the Formula One calendar.

But how does it rate as a tourist destination? Trevor Claringbold has been to find out.

Baku is just about as far east as you can go in Europe, without falling off the edge into the Caspian Sea. As a country, Azerbaijan forms a natural land bridge between Russia to the north, and Iran to the south, yet also draws many influences from both east and west. Wander the busy streets of the capital, and it’s hard to determine which direction has shaped the city the most over the centuries.

One thing that is certain, however, is that Baku is fast switching from being a trend follower, to trend setter, as a wealth of highly individual modern buildings are springing up right across the city’s skyline.

Hotels, exhibition centres, sports venues, museums, and entertainment halls are all being created within a massive building and regeneration programme. So, is it in danger of losing its historic identity?

Absolutely not. Visit Baku today, and what you will see is a city justifiably proud and protective of its history, whilst embarking on what will become the next stage of that journey. The stunning new structures will impress visitors of the future, in the same way as today’s tourists marvel over the magnificent remnants of the past.

Nowhere is this more apparent than in the old city. The teardrop shaped walled enclave is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And as you walk through the 12th Century main gate, it’s not only a feeling that you are being transported back in time, but also that you are crossing continents. Modern Baku is not unlike many other eastern European cities, but here in the walled city there is a distinct essence of Asia in the days of the old Silk Road.

The magnificent Palace of the Shirvanshahs is one of Azerbaijan’s most important historical buildings. Built in the early Middle Ages for the region’s ruling family, it was restored as a museum in 2003, and includes a mausoleum, bath houses and mosque.

Close by is the iconic Maiden’s Tower. The structure is almost 30 metres high, but perhaps more impressive is that it also descends 15 metres below the surface. It was completed in the 12th Century, but it’s foundations and lower floors are much older. Its original purpose is somewhat uncertain, with the most widely accepted theory being that it was a Zoroastrian Fire Temple. They believed that there were seven steps to heaven, and the tower has the requisite seven fire exits on the top.

Whatever its origins, it is undoubtedly one of the most popular attractions in the city. Climb the ancient stone steps to the rooftop platform, and you are blessed with spectacular views of the old city and its surroundings, as well as the majestic boulevard and glistening waters of the Caspian Sea.

Even outside the old city walls, there are countless architectural beauties lining every street. But the wave of modern buildings are also making their mark. The trio or skyscrapers known as the Flame Towers have become a symbol not just of the city, but of Azerbaijan – which is know as the Land of Fire. The tallest one stands at almost 600 feet high, and all three are covered entirely with more than 10,000 LCD luminaries which create captivating moving graphics of flames, the Azerbaijani flag, and pouring water after dark each day. The constantly evolving images are mesmerising to watch, and can be seen from the far reaches of the city.

In a broad, open green space on the hill behind the old city stands another architectural masterpiece, the Heydar Aliyev Centre. The gleaming white building with its flowing lines was designed by British-Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid, and is named after a former Azerbaijani president. Inside it houses a large conference centre, a gallery and museum. It’s an interesting place to visit, but moreover is yet further testament to the forward-thinking nature of this ancient land. Baku is a city very much proud of its past, but definitely not stuck there.

An array of striking modern structures have springing up over the last decade or so, including a new National Stadium and a vast aquatics centre.

By contrast, just along the road is another modern building, but with a definite nod to the past. And just by the shape of the building, there is no mistaking what it houses. The National Carpet Museum house a staggering 10,000 artefacts, dating back to the 14th century. It also dedicates space to showing how carpets were made, in the prosperous days of the silk road.

The carpets, as with many things in Azerbaijan, have a definite influence of both Asia and the Middle East. The same is true of the unique fusion found in the many excellent restaurants, where the cuisine is delicious, but like nowhere else I have ever visited.

On the outskirts of the city is a temple that also emphasises that meeting point of different cultures. The pentagonal, 17th century Atashgakh Fire Temple looks like a small castle, and served as a place of worship for Sikhs, Hindus, and Zoroastrians.

Small cells for the monks surround a central courtyard, where a covered altar, and an ‘Eternal Flame’ made this a popular pilgrimage stop on the ancient trade routes.

This whole region is littered with these natural gas escapes from the ground, which provide small but constant flames. They can even be seen by the roadside as you travel around. In most cases these are hardly noticeable, but at nearby Yanar Dag the flames can jet three metres into the air, earning it the name of ‘Fire Mountain’.

It was only discovered in 1950, when accidentally lit by a local shepherd. Such places do make it easy to see why Azerbaijan is known as the Land of Fire! The one at the Fire Temple, however, is no longer natural. The gas reservoir that supplied it ran out in 1969, so since then it has been fed by a man-made gas link.

The gas flames are not the only example of strange natural phenomenon here. Even more bizarre are the mud volcanoes, such as the ones at Lökbatan. Azerbaijan, along with Gobustan and the Caspian Sea, are said to be home to around 300 of the estimated 700 mud volcanoes on the planet.

When you first arrive, it’s hard to comprehend the landscape that surrounds you. A strange aroma fills the air, and wisps of steam float gently into a clear blue sky. Below them, everything for as far as the eye can see is the same greybrown colour, with slippery mounds, sinister looking pools, and small hillocks all gently emitting intermittent bubbles of mud. Some are miniscule, while others look like they are waiting to swallow an unsuspecting human in a sci-fi movie.

Azerbaijan is not your typical tourism country, any more than Baku is your traditional city break. But that is the charm of them both, and probably the best reason for visiting.

Come here to be surprised, and expect to leave with more questions than you answered while you were here. There is a lot more to Baku than meets the eye, and it is a destination that is changing fast. But if your idea of the perfect city-break is somewhere that most of your friends won’t know about, and you’ll be talking about for years to come, then Baku is for you.

UsefUl InformatIon

AZERBAIJAN TOURIST BOARD www.tourismboard.az

AZERBAIJAN AIRLINES: www.azal.az

SHIRVANSHAH PALACE: www.icherisheher.gov.az

MAIDENS TOWER: www.travelinbaku.com/en/blog-detailed/29

HEYDAR ALIYEV CENTRE: www.heydaraliyevcenter.az/#main

AZERBAIJAN CARPET MUSEUM: www.azcarpetmuseum.az/en

ATASHGAKH FIRE TEMPLE: www.ateshgahtemple.az/en/

YOUR PHOTOS

Been somewhere captivating ? Done something amazing ?

Email us your journeys to magazine@globetrotter.com or tag us on Instagram using #globetrottermag and you could have your image shown here in a future issue.

Sheradon Dublin - @sheradon.travelarchive on Instagram

This sunset photo was the result of many trips made to the same lovely beach side restaurant, over the period of my ten day holiday in Side, Turkey. I initially noticed the view as I sat down for my first meal there, and throughout the evening boats would appear on the horizon, only to disappear from sight as they sailed far out to sea.

The weather was always great, but not the blazing sunset that one always hopes for. So, I returned three times to this restaurant with the hope to capture the image you see here. It was only on the last evening that everything came together; great weather with no cloud cover, a single boat on the horizon, and the restaurant not yet busy. I had time to find a good location overlooking the sea from the clifftop without being in the way of the staff.

Every time I look at this image I remember that holiday, and the great time I had travelling that part of the world.

Vienna’s Vivacious Neighbour - Behind the Scenes -

With the second series of ‘Amazing Spa Towns of Europe’ due to hit your TV screens soon, Trevor Claringbold goes behind the scenes as the film crew arrive in Austria.

The grand capital cities of Europe draw visitors from across the world. They stand as shining examples of architecture, culture, entertainment and so much more. But as with anything that shines brightly, they tend to cast a shadow over anything nearby.

That is probably the reason why most people outside of Austria have probably never heard of Baden bei Wien.

A pleasant 25 minute tram ride from the centre of Vienna takes you to the heart of this captivating little town, where you alight in the neo-classical Josefsplatz. Two former bathhouses immediately set the scene for this elegant, traditional spa town. The imposing columns of the Frauenbad line one side of the Platz, although the lavish interior is now home to the world renowned Arnulf Rainer Museum, with artworks peppered amid the former baths. In the centre of the Platz is the Josefsbad, where a delightful domed rotunda leads you into what is now a popular restaurant and meeting place.

Baden bei Wien is a town best explored on foot. Most of the main sights are fairly close together, and it’s easy to find your way around. Much of the town centre is pedestrianised, with rows of gorgeous buildings from the early 19th century that were built after a huge fire destroyed many of the streets in 1812. The regeneration provided the opportunity to create wider streets and a large main square, which has given the town a bright, appealing atmosphere.

As you walk into the Hauptplatz, your eyes are drawn to the 20-metre-high Trinity Column, with its intertwining mass of carved details. This square has changed little since the early 1800’s, when the ruling Hapsburgs would have looked out from the Emperor’s House that overlooks it, during their summer breaks. It was also the residence of the last Austrian Emperor, during the First World War.

A small street next to the Town Hall leads to one of the most visited places in the town centre – Beethoven’s House. Like many of the notable and noble families of the day, Beethoven would come here as a summer retreat. He enjoyed ‘taking the waters’, and would mix with benefactors and patrons. The apartment he rented in a coppersmiths house, and where he wrote a substantial part of his famous 9th Symphony, has now been turned into a unique museum, and one of the few that show the everyday life of the composer. It’s fascinating to see the interactive audio exhibits, but such things are not the easiest to convey on film.

Of course, we were here mainly to tell the story of Baden bei Wien as a spa town. In 1926, the Thermalstrandbad was built in just 16 weeks. After the end of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Austria itself had no coastline, so this huge outdoor lido was designed in an art deco style to resemble the bathing establishments of the former Austrian Adriatic resorts. There are a number of pools, stretching for over 5000 square metres, fronted by a large sandy beach. On a bright sunny day, it really does evoke an atmosphere of those past times, and when you watch this in the finished programme, you will see our presenter (Ellen Coughlan) having fun in the pools, relaxing, and enjoying the summer ambience.

For most visitors here, that is exactly what it is like, but, enjoyable though it is, we are here to work. Whenever we arrive at such places, the first question is to decide which of the crew will go into the water, and which will film from the side. In a warm, pretty pool like this, everyone wants to go into the invitingly clear water. Surprisingly, there are not so many volunteers when it comes to the cold, less glamourous pools we also have to feature sometimes!

There is not much relaxing, as we have only limited time, so to the casual onlooker it can arrear quite humorous. The team in the water will film all the close up bits in each place, and then quickly hide behind a fountain or suchlike, so that the crew on the side can film the presenter without her being surrounded by cameras! It’s like a waterborne game of hide and seek.

A more modern, but equally appealing pool complex can be found closer to the town centre, at the Römertherme. The large main pool is split in two by a bridge, with one end enhanced by water jets, jacuzzi pools, etc. It is all protected by the largest self-supporting glass roof of any thermal pool in Europe. Outside there are further hot and cold pools, fountains, and a large grassed are to relax. The complex also boasts saunas and an extensive wellness area, making the most of the healing thermal waters.

Just along the road is the site of the town’s first thermal spring, known as the Roman Spring. Today, the old Kurhaus – now Baden’s Casino – stands over it, and it was here that Empress Maria Therisia founded what has evolved to become the delightful Kurpark. The extensive gardens stretch from the edge of the town centre, all the way up the hillside, with gloriously manicured gardens, cafes, seating areas, music stages, and fountains. The original thermal buildings still sit grandly on one side, and it is, without doubt, one of the most picturesque historical gardens in Austria.

As the path meanders its way up the increasingly steep hillside before us, as a film crew it gives mixed feelings. We know that on the way up, and from the top we will get some great views. But it also means we need to carry the heavy gear up there first!

It’s worth it though. The park gives a multitude of wonderful, colourful backdrops for the presenter to stroll past, and from the top there are magnificent views across the town. The 64 metre tall spire of St Stephens Church stands tall above the other buildings. The 14th century Gothic style church was where another famous composer, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, premiered his ‘Ave Verum’, when he visited Baden bei Wien in 1791.

The Kurpark is not the only park here. On the outskirts of the town is the large Rose Garden, laid out in 1960 on the grounds of the former moated Weikersdorf Castle. There are a staggering 30,000 rose bushes here, representing over 900 varieties. Each year, the ‘Baden Rose Days’, in June, draw visitors from far and wide for the swathes of colour, and heady aromas. As much as we would love to sit and relax, marvelling at the colourful blooms, however, we have one last challenge.

High above the town are the ruins of Rauheneck Castle. Built in the 12th century it was originally quite an extensive structure, although the only substantial part that still stands nowadays is the unique triangular tower. It is about 2.5km from the centre of Baden bei Wien, and a well-marked, if slightly rough path spirals up to the top of the 1,142 ft high hill. Assuming you are not taking heavy cameras, backpacks and tripods, it will take you about an hour.

On the summit, the 25-metre high tower can be explored, although the interior can be quite dark in places, adding to the mystique of the place. Try and ignore any strange sounds as you climb the steep steps – it is probably just the ghost of the builder, who is said to be condemned to haunt the castle for all eternity. Assuming you make it safely past him, the 360-degree panorama from the top is breathtaking.

Baden bei Wien has been a revelation. It wraps you up in its bright, welcoming atmosphere, and invites you to revel in the slower, gentle pace of life. It’s a place where it’s hard not to feel calm, and somewhere that you will leave feeling refreshed and invigorated. Not that you will ever want to leave.

The Park Hotel

WHERE TO STAY.

Perfectly located overlooking the Kurpark, the Park Hotel is just a few minutes walk from the town centre, the casino, or the Römertherme. The spacious, modern rooms are well furnished, very comfortable and well equipped, and those overlooking the park have balconies to make the most of the views. If you are driving, there is a small private car park, and the public areas are bright and inviting, including a relaxing library and a bar.

www.atthepark.at

WHERE TO EAT.

Heuringen – Klaudia Zierer

The term ‘Heuringen’ refers generally to a wine tavern, and is an abbreviation of ‘heuringer wein’, or ‘this year’s wine’. There are a number of these establishments in Baden, typically being the wine taverns associated with particular vineyards in the region. In this case Harald Zierer runs the vineyard, and his sister, Klaudia, runs the ‘Heuringen’ near the centre of town.

It is a wonderfully atmospheric setting for dinner, reached through an arched alleyway, with various articles associated with viniculture leading you to a vibrant outdoor seating area.

There choice of food is limited, but beautifully cooked, but this is all about a true Austrian ambience and a feel-good evening of wine, food, and good company, that won’t break the bank. Definitely something that you should try if you are visiting Baden bei Wien.

www.weingut-zierer.at

Heurigen – Franz Schwabi

A second option for a wine tavern, at the opposite end of the town, and very similar to the one mentioned above. A large garden at the rear is ideal for warm evenings, and inside is a large, traditional Austrian style bar and restaurant, with carved wood and an inviting aroma of freshly cooked regional cuisine.

www.weingutschwabl.at

UsefUl InformatIon

BADEN BEI WIEN TOURISM OFFICE

www.baden.at

BEETHOVEN’S HOUSE

www.beethovenhaus-baden.at

ROSE GARDEN

www.tourismus.baden.at/rosarium-1

RAUHENECK CASTLE RUINS

www.tourismus.baden.at/ausflug-baden

RÖMERTHERME

www.roemertherme.at

THERMAL STRANDBAD

thermalstrandbad@baden.gv.at

ARNULF RAINER MUSEUM

www.arnulf-rainer-museum.at/en

SIARGAO through the lens

Hidden away in the extreme east of the Philippines, with the mighty Pacific Ocean crashing onto its beaches, Siargao is largely off the beaten track for tourists. The one exception are the surfing and kite-surfing community, who discovered it’s excellent wind and wave combinations some years ago, and have made it a bucket-list trip.

There are breathtaking opportunities for island hopping to idyllic white-sand beaches, where palm trees shade the perfectly clear waters. Around the coast, rock pools, cave swimming and cliff jumping are all popular, but the interior of this island is relatively untouched by travellers.

It’s a vibrant, friendly island, with a true feel of this eclectic country. And, as you can see, it’s a photographers dream!

The most popular surfing area is known as ‘Cloud 9’, which has a substantial three-level wooden viewing tower built on the end of a long pier that stretches out into the deep blue waters of the Pacific.

Cloud 9 is great for all ages and abilities, as the waves are perfect, but the sea is shallow, so even beginners need not worry. And there are plenty of instructors available to provide lessons.

ABOVE: A traditional Filipino boat sits on a serene beach on Daku Island- one of the popular stops on the island hopping tours.

MAIN PHOTO AND ABOVE: The Magpopongko Rock Pools create a bizarre landscape fronting onto the ocean, with rough rock floors and deep pools. The larger rocks attract crowds of younger visitors, keen to show off their flamboyant jumps into the surrounding waters.

ABOVE: A beautiful spot to have lunch, overlooking the sea on Daku Island.

ABOVE: A magnificent seafood platter, served by the families who actually live on this tiny island, and cater for the visiting tourists. Their children go to school each day by boat!

ABOVE: The tiny Guyam Island is the perfect example of what most people imagine, when they think of a desert island. It is almost a perfect circle, with glorious white sand beaches, and palm trees filling the centre. It takes around 15 minutes to walk right around it.

ABOVE: A lone coconut sits in the sand of Guyam Island. If you are lucky, the locals will cut you a fresh one to eat while you are there.

BOTTOM AND RIGHT: The small port of General Luna is where many of the island hopping tours depart from, but when you return at sunset it is also full of the local fishing boats. The market of the harbourside has a large hall where the fishermen bring their catches to sell, and they are happy to tell you about the many unusual, colourful fish that we are not familiar with.

LEFT: The clear blue waters that gently lap the soft sandy beaches are safe and clean to swim in, and it is often easy to see the marine life gently going about its business.

The beautiful Siargao Bleu Resort and Spa is one of many excellent hotels on the island, who make considerable efforts to instigate environmentally considerate practices. Almost all food is sourced on the island, for example, and all single use plastics are banned.

For more information on Siargao, watch Series 1 of Globetrotter Television’s ‘It’s More Fun in the Philippines’ on Amazon’s Prime Video, or visit www.itsmorefuninthephilippines.co.uk/siargao

TAnca Precub puts the latest gadgets, gizmo’s, and travel tech to the test!

A Must-Have Companion for Every Adventure!

In the age of wanderlust and digital storytelling, the role of photography in travel has become more pivotal than ever. Every journey is a journey waiting for memories to be woven into captivating narratives, and the right camera can be the thread that binds them together.

and user-friendly interfaces, they’re ideal for both seasoned photographers and novices alike. Whether you’re capturing a vibrant sunset or a spontaneous moment of joy, they ensure that every shot is effortlessly composed and flawlessly executed. There’s only one ‘on’ button and the shutter button - it doesn’t get any easier than that. There is also a black and white feature that you can add to the camera by using a computer.

R A V E L T E C H

Enter CampSnap cameras, the ultimate travel companion for adventurers of all kinds. With their innovative features and compact design, these cameras are revolutionizing the way we document our journeys. Here’s why they’re an essential addition to your travel arsenal.

Portability: One of the foremost concerns of any traveller is the bulkiness of traditional cameras. CampSnap cameras address this with their compact and lightweight design, making them effortlessly portable. Whether you’re backpacking through rugged terrain or exploring urban landscapes, they fit snugly into your pocket or bag, ensuring you never miss a moment.

Durability: Travel can be unpredictable, with adventures often leading to environments that are less than camerafriendly. These cameras are built to withstand the rigors of the road, boasting durable exteriors that can endure bumps, drops, and even water splashes. From sandy beaches to misty mountaintops, these cameras are ready to accompany you wherever your wanderlust takes you.

Ease of Use: While some cameras come with a steep learning curve, these cameras prioritize simplicity without compromising on functionality. With intuitive controls

Colours: There are a variety of colours to choose from that will suit either your destination or the outfits you decide to wear on your holiday. Plus adding a splash of colour to the camera will make you stand out from the crowd and can be a conversation starter.

No Digital Display: Whilst you might be worried that you can’t see the picture that you just took on the back of the camera, I’m telling you this is probably one of the best things about this camera. Having the feel of a film camera but with literally hundreds of images available at a click of a button, and without the added cost of developing film after the holiday, this camera will ensure that you are more present in your holiday, and you pay more attention to what is in front of you instead of what is showing up on a digital screen.

Whether you’re embarking on a solo backpacking adventure or a family road trip, these cameras promise to be your faithful companions every step of the way. Compact, durable, and easy to use they are the perfect blend of form and function, making them an indispensable addition to any traveller’s toolkit. So, before you set off on your next journey, don’t forget to pack your sense of adventure—and your CampSnap camera. After all, the world is waiting to be captured through your lens.

B r i g h t S a n d s

W a r m M e m o r i e s

A d v e n t u r e o f a L i f e t i m e

1

MEET THE TEAM!

Spotlight on…

Esme Todd

Esme Todd joined the Globetrotter team in 2022, as the presenter of our new Hiking Europe series. It was a baptism of fire, as her first trip was the 750km Alpe Adria trail, across the Alps from Austria to the Adriatic Sea. We caught up with her recently, to find out more about her love of travel, and memorable moments.

When did you first realise you had a passion for travel? I’d always found holidays exciting, but growing up I never had the passion to go travelling properly as such. Then in my early 20s I suddenly had the urge to go and try backpacking, so my boyfriend and I spent a few months at the start of 2020 (pre Covid!) backpacking in India and Australia. That really ignited my desire to visit lots of new places! I loved the freedom of exploring new destinations, and meeting people from all around the world. I especially love visiting places which are totally different to back home, but also places that have good vegetarian food!

What were your first thoughts when you heard you had been chosen to present Hiking Europe?

Honestly, I couldn’t believe that it could be an actual job - to go away to multiple countries, eat in nice restaurants, do fun (and sometimes scary) activities, and learn all about different places... and count this as work! It had been a goal of mine to film a travel show since I went backpacking, so ticking it off was a really big achievement for me.

What is the hardest thing about filming a travel programme?

Definitely the long hours! We would usually wake up around 7am, do a whole day of filming and travelling, have dinner and then be back in our individual hotel rooms at 10pm or so. Sometimes with TV it can take a long time to get just a few minutes of footage so that means working hard for long days. It’s all worth it, of course, and I’d do it again in a heartbeat!

Tell us about the place you most want to visit in the world, and why.?

I definitely couldn’t pick just one answer to this, so I’ll give you 3 dream trips.

1) Probably first place goes to SE Asia. I’ve never been to this part of the world, but I would love to visit Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia, Cambodia…loads of places!

2) I’d love to travel around both islands in New Zealand. We actually had a flight booked for there after Australia, but 2 days before we were due to fly, NZ closed their borders due to Covid.

3) A big USA road trip! The only places in the States that I’ve been to are NYC and Florida, so I’d love to see a lot of different states and national parks.

What has been your scariest moment, while travelling?

When I first arrived in India, in New Delhi, it was incredibly busy and overwhelming, and took a few days to get used to it. It was also the furthest place I’d visited (not including as a child), so it felt like quite a big trip, although thankfully I’ve never had any super bad experiences abroad.

Do you watch your own programmes?

Yes!! It’s like a trip down memory lane, and being able to see everything you did from the viewers perspective is really interesting to me. When you’re filming a travel show, often you’re in and out of places quite quickly, and because you’re working you don’t always fully absorb what you’re doing. So it’s actually great to be able to see what you might have missed. I don’t get particularly embarrassed watching myself present anymore, I’ve presented for many years now and have to watch footage all the time when editing showreels/ making content.

You must meet so many people whilst travelling. Tell us about someone who most sticks in your mind.

In India, we were staying at a hostel in a place called Pushkar. The hostel manager knew we were looking for things to do, so he offered to take us on a day trip on mopeds to visit the

“Aloo Baba”. He’s a 70+ year old man who lives out in the middle of nowhere, in a temple, and only eats potatoesgiving up all other forms of food is meant to eliminate the element of choice from your life. We visited him in the cavelike home he lives in, and got to feed the peacocks that live around him… He meditates a lot, and lives an incredibly simple but peaceful life. Google him, and you can see videos of all of this!

What is the one activity you most like to include in a trip?

I love horse riding, and was thrilled to be able to do it for season 1 of Hiking Europe, but I’d genuinely love to do more of it. I think it’s an amazing way to see the area. I also love to learn about the history of older places so anything to do with this is great... love a good museum!

You can see Hiking Europe on Sky Channel 186, and on the Globetrotter TV website at www.globetrottertv.com

Discovering WINCHESTER

Suggest a weekend break in Winchester, and chances are the first thing people will think about is the cathedral, but for me, this attractive city revealed so much more… says Anca Precub

I’ve arrived in Winchester on a rainy Friday morning, and even though I imagined the city was going to look bleak and quiet, to my surprise it was buzzing with people, both locals and tourists, having a stroll, popping into different shops, local coffee outlets and restaurants.

As I have no clue where to start and know nothing about this intriguing but charming place, my first stop is the Winchester Information Centre. As winners of the “Visitor Information Centre of the Year” award in 2023, this is the place where I can get all the info I need. Once you step inside you are greeted by the lovely tour guides, and you can browse through the local produce, gifts and souvenirs.

They suggest that as a first-time visitor, the best thing for me to do is to take one of their walking tours, which will give me lots of information about the city and its history, as well as making sure I don’t miss any of the must-see places.

There are a number of tours to choose from, themed around different topics and times of the year. As well as general city tours, you can opt for Abbey House, Hidden Waterways, Children’s Tours, or even Halloween.

My tour includes a riverside walk, and starts at the Winchester City Mill. It is one of the oldest watermills in the country, with a history dating back at least 1000 years.

My guide, Sue, then leads me to Wolvesey Castle, that is apparently one of the secret gems of the city, and one which even many locals are unaware of its exact location. From there we continue on, passing the house where Jane Austen spent the last 6 weeks before she died, before finishing the tour with a few suggestions of other places I should see during my stay.

I highly recommend the guided city tours, as they are a great way to see parts of the city that otherwise you might miss. They are the perfect way to get your bearings,, and of course

are full of information not only regarding historic events, but also suggestions from people that actually live in the city.

One of those suggestions was a place that makes history look fun. The 878 AD is an immersive experience that will allow you to see the world of the Anglo-Saxons and learn about how life was back then. The building itself is situated in a shopping mall, and you’d think is just a souvenir shop from outside. Once you step inside, however, you are transported back in time, complete with live performances from the actors to give you a feel of the topics they talked about, and what they did to pass the time.

The space is designed to cater for all ages, and there are even interactive areas that will get your thirst for knowledge fired up, including one where you can mint your own coin. As part of their immersive experience, the company also offers the option of installing an app on your phone, and following a trail map around the city, showing you how different various areas looked in the past. This is definitely an experience not to be missed, wether you are a history fan or not.

And talking about experiences, I have another suggestion that might be something a bit different when you think about visiting a new city. Escape rooms!

The Clue Capers caught my attention as they are quite unique compared to all the other escape rooms I have been in. They have an indoor escape room experience that has some incredible story lines attached, but what’s intriguing is that they also have 3 outdoor experiences that you can play around the city. As I don’t want to spoil your fun, I won’t give away a lot of information, but I can easily say that I had the most fun in ages with an escape room, and I can’t recommend them enough.

The high street is full of a mix of big chain shops as well as quirky small businesses that would cater for all tastes and budgets, and the same goes for the eateries. Something that particularly caught my attention was the multitude of architectural styles too. There are wonderful old buildings that have stood the test of time, that now have luxurious white interiors and sell you bath bombs, alongside new buildings that sell shabby chic furniture.

Clearly a visit to Winchester can’t be complete without a visit to its world-famous cathedral. This incredible building is one of the largest examples of medieval architecture in Europe. It encompasses a magnificent mix of Norman and Gothic styles, and stands tall as a testament to over a millennium of English history.

The exterior is adorned with intricate sculptures and gorgeous stained-glass windows, some of which have survived since the medieval era and offer a glimpse into the artistic prowess of the past. Once you step inside, its grandeur will leave you breathless. Visitors can explore on their own, but there are always guides on hand who are happy to answer any questions you might have.

You’ll be able to see the final resting place of Jane Austen, whose grave is a site of pilgrimage for literature enthusiasts, and is adorned with letters from tourists from all over the world.

For those interested in the cathedral’s role through the centuries, you can also join a guided tour to walk you through its history. The crypt, which often floods (as is the case on my visit!), also holds a striking sculpture by Antony Gormley that adds a contemporary touch to its ancient surroundings.

Make sure you check the cathedral calendar before you visit, as there are many events throughout the year, from traditional choral evensong services, to seasonal markets, concerts and exhibitions.

And whilst we are on the subject of legendary places, did you know that you can also see King Arthur’s Round table in Winchester? The Great Hall is one of the finest surviving halls of the 13th century. It’s all that remains of Winchester Castle, and is the room that was once used as a royal residence, a courtroom, stronghold, and most recently even as a movie location. It’s also the only piece of formal town planning in Winchester, since King Alfred laid out the street system.

The main reasons people visit The Great Hall, of course, is because of its connection to King Arthur’s legendary Round Table. It is believed that Edward I, whose court was often resident in Winchester, might have commissioned this table for a great banquet, as part of an Arthurian tournament.

If you’re not especially into history, trust me when I say that this city will awake something in you, and make you curious and hungry for more. Walking down the narrow streets, and stepping inside these glorious buildings will make you wonder how our ancestors lived their life in this beautiful place, because you can’t help but notice how history has put its mark everywhere. From the style of the buildings, to the cobbled streets and statues, Winchester combines the old and new in a blend that is hard to describe in words. So you’ll need to come here and feel it for yourself!

WHERE TO STAY

Winchester Royal

This hotel is only a short walk from the main town centre. The room I’m staying in has some beautiful furnishings, and it blends the modern with the classical style in a very harmonious way.

I also have a view of their beautiful garden, which is quite unique for a hotel placed in the heart of the city.

The rooms are 400 years old, but every amenity is modern, including the large luxurious bathroom with a freestanding bathtub.

The restaurant is decorated in the same style that combines the old with the new, and their breakfast is delicious. Their chefs try and use as many local products as possible, and combining that with the attention to detail and presentation results in truly delicious dishes.

www.winchesterroyalhotel.com

The Winchester Hotel and Spa

Situated towards the outskirts, but convenient for the train station, you have the Winchester Hotel and Spa. Their offering includes spa packages that boast luxurious treatments, as well as a swimming pool and hot tub.

The hotel has 96 comfortable bedrooms, and is also dog friendly - with rooms located on the ground floor that allow easy access to all amenities.

There is also a bar, restaurant and a terrace, and some rather lovely afternoon teas. Walking into the town centre from the hotel is easy, and only takes about 10 minutes. So it’s a perfect stay if you’d prefer to be a bit further away from the busy areas.

www.thewinchesterhotel.co.uk

PLACES TO GO FOR DRINKS/COFFEE/BRUNCH

Incognito

Well-known across the UK, these chains of bars are attracting tourists and locals alike. The quirky interior and décor is every Instagrammer’s dream, until the drinks start making their way to the tables.

Drinks are served in all kinds of unusual receptacles, which will certainly make you try more than one just for the wow factor. They also offer non-alcoholic beverages that are served in the same extravagant way.

Do pay attention when looking for this place, as from the outside you’d hardly tell it’s here. From experience, and if in doubt, ask a local… as they all know where it is!

www.incognitobars.co.uk

Cabinet Rooms

An independent family-run café bar for discerning grown-ups. Once you enter what feels like a small, cozy establishment you are made feel at home by the owners, who are usually behind the bar. To my surprise, the front room is not the only one where you can enjoy a drink.

I am invited to have a look around and, to my surprise, there is another large adjacent room and two themed rooms downstairs. One of them is called the Foreign Office, and is where the owners organise their secret film society events. There is also the Map Room for larger groups.

This is a place where you can come and enjoy a drink without the loud music, whilst supporting a space that is giving back to their community.

www.cabinetrooms.com

Coffee Lab Academy

Proudfoot & CO

This might not be to everyone’s taste but it’s definitely a must visit. They offer non-alcoholic drinks that are produced in a sustainable way by the owner. By using their collection of hundreds of old British cookbooks, they’ve designed innovative and sustainable ways of producing a variety of drinks and snacks.

Most of the produce is foraged locally by Eoghan, the owner, who has spent many years studying the different types of plants, and experimenting with foraging himself. You can also enquire about their foraging courses, where you’ll learn more about what goes into living a more sustainable lifestyle, and tackling climate change - one herb collected at a time.

www.proudfootandco.com

For coffee lovers this is the perfect spot. It opened more than six years ago, and they recently underwent an expansion that was designed to offer their clients a bigger variety of coffee specialities.

The also serve food such as salads, cakes, homemade pastries and bagels. The space is packed with people in line to grab their coffee and pastries at 9 o’clock on a Saturday morning, and I am lucky enough to find an empty table. The Coffee is delicious and wish I had the chance to try all the pastries!

WHERE TO EAT

The South Downs Social

From the outside you might think that this is a location designed just for cyclists, but once you step inside you quickly realise everyone is welcome. Designed as a bike café initially, this space is now also a cycling boutique and event hub, that attracts people of all ages and backgrounds.

You feel a strong community atmosphere here, with local craftspeople showcasing their work on the first floor, and all kind of generations meeting up for just a drink or some food.

Talking to the owner, Neil Wyatt, I learn that Winchester is a bit of a cycling hotbed, benefiting from great road, gravel and MTB in the area. It’s also the start and end point of two of the UK’s finest long distance off-road cycling routes, the King Alfred’s Way and the South Downs Way.

The place feels cozy, even though is quite spacious, and it can get busy very quickly. Their food and hot drinks are delicious, so no wonder people flood to this incredible place. www.southdownssocial.com

Kyoto Kitchen

When the owner flies more than seven hours and 3500 miles to meet and interview their new chef in 2022, you know this is a place that wants to offer their customers a genuinely authentic taste.

The restaurant is serving authentic Japanese dishes, and was established in 2012. In 2021 they won a Michelin plate award, and moved to a new location that is allowing them to also offer their customers not just delicious food, but truly a veritable Japanese dining experience.

The waiters are very knowledgeable and happy to help

explain any of the dishes if you are unsure, and the food is just out of this world - even for someone like myself that has yet to acquire the taste for this type of cuisine.

www.kyotokitchen.co.uk

The Chesil Rectory

If you want to take a step back in history, this is the ideal spot. The building in which this establishment is operating is now the oldest commercial propriety in Winchester, and has been a restaurant for the last 75 years.

The property was once owned by Henry VIII, who gifted the building to his daughter Queen Mary, known as the Mary Tudor. In 1554 due to her lavish wedding, she bequeathed the Chesil Rectory to the city of Winchester as part payment.

The building still holds much of its original character, with uneven floors, wooden beams and many other architectural features, but with classic and elegant furnishings throughout. The place is fully booked when I visit, and after tasting the food I can understand why.

As I chat with other diners on the table next to me, they tell me they are here to celebrate their anniversary, and came specifically to The Chesil Rectory, even though they don’t live in the city, because the food and atmosphere are excellent.

www.chesilrectory.co.uk

The Wykeham Arms

Arriving at the Wykeham Arms could trick you into thinking that you are stepping inside your everyday British pub, and that is partly true if you want to spend your evening in the pub section of the building. If you prefer to have a more relaxed evening then don’t despair, as they do offer that option in their restaurant area.

The restaurant is beautifully decorated throughout, and the food is very tasty. Think elevated pub dishes that will make you feel like you have stepped into a luxurious private restaurant.

The building itself has its charm, and it is said that Lord Nelson himself stayed here on his way to Portsmouth. In the mid 1900’s it became an avant-garde Fleur de Lys bar, as it was set right across the road from the Winchester’s thenfamous red light district.

www.wykehamarmswinchester.co.uk

Bangkok-bistro

If you haven’t realised how versatile Winchester’s food offering is, then I have one more suggestion for you. Bangkok Bistro offers authentic and regional Thai cuisine that is prepared by experienced Thai chefs.

The restaurant is bright and airy, and the staff are very helpful in suggesting dishes that I would like - given this was my first time was visiting a Thai restaurant. The ingredients are fresh, and even though the cuisine is not local, the chefs are using local produce as much as possible in their cooking.

www.bangkok-bistro.co.uk

VISIT WINCHESTER

www.visitwinchester.co.uk

WINCHESTER TOURISM GUIDES

www.winchestertouristguides.com

WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL

www.winchester-cathedral.org.uk

878 AD EXPERIENCE

www.878ad.co.uk

CLUE CAPERS

www.cluecapers.co.uk

THE GREAT HALL

www.historicwinchester.co.uk/great-hall-westgate-museum

SMART PACK

Animal

This is a very useful item for drying and changing, or just returning from a dip, whether its by the sea, or a pool. With a sumptuous 100% recycled fleece lining, the inside is warm and cosy, and a thin membrane between the fleece and the outer layer keeps any chilly winds firmly outside.

It is waterproof (tested to 2000mm), and with taped seams it basically means you are protected in all but heavy rain. The breathable outer polyester fabric has also been treated, so that drops of water will bead and roll off.

It is clear that a lot of thought has gone into this Parka, with a handy double entry ‘kangaroo pocket’, a full-length zip, and cleverly designed three-piece hood. Most importantly, it is very comfortable to wear generally, and use for changing. When you exit the

Mountain Warehouse

Fleece Picnic Mat

With summer coming thoughts turn to getting out in the better weather, either on a proper getaway, or maybe just an afternoon in the countryside or at the beach. Many of us would just grab an old blanket, for a picnic, or just to sit on.

But how often have you done this and then realised that the ground is still a bit damp? Or that the fine sand on the beach finds its way through the fluffy fabric?

The stylish Fleece Picnic Mat from Mountain Warehouse will answer your prayers, with a neat waterproof backing and a soft fleece top, it’s an invaluable accessory for your days out. It is lightweight, and folds neatly so that it takes very little space. It even has its own comfortable carrying handle, and the 100% polyester fabric means its also easy to clean.

At 120cm x 140cm, it is comfortably big enough for a couple of people, and your champagne and caviar.

You can find out more at: www.mountainwarehouse.com

sea on a chilly day, you really welcome that warm fleece hugging you on the inside, and that windproof layer giving you that added protection.

The only slight query is over the eyesight of the person at Animal, who decided this was ‘dark blue’. It is much closer to a teal colour… but in truth we actually quite like it!

Overall, it’s a really nice item, and one that will find favour with many.

You can find out more at: www.mountainwarehouse.com

Misty Womens Recycled Fleece Lined Parka

If you’re camping out, there are two main criteria for your sleeping bag. Firstly, you need the right one for your environment, especially with temperature in mind. And secondly, it is important to use one that feels comfortable.

This Mountain Warehouse Check Flannel Sleeping Bag is very much a warm weather item, rated for temperatures over 9 degrees, so it should be ideal for European summers for camping holidays, festivals, and suchlike. Moreover it is very comfortable, with its size and shape allowing for plenty of movement. They are made from a

Check Flannel Sleeping Bag by Mountain Warehouse

polycotton exterior, with a lovely soft cotton flannel lining, with a handy two-way slide zipper.

There is a choice of colours, although we particularly like this navy blue, with the blue checked interior. With careful rolling, it fits snugly inside its own carrying bag, making it very compact to transport. It also weighs just 2.8kg, so it is a good choice for hikers with already heavy backpacks.

Find more info here: www.mountainwarehouse.com

Aunno International Travel Plug Adapter

It always feels a bit strange buying something that you hope you will never have to use! But we all know that there will be days when having a good, compact, waterproof jacket with you will be a blessing. This lightweight coat comes with its own drawstring carry case, meaning it rolls into a very small, portable unit.

Don’t let its simple appearance fool you, however, as this jacket has plenty of enviable features. Fully taped seams help make it fully waterproof in all but the heaviest rain – and even then in our test it did a pretty good job. The

Travel adapters have progressed a lot in the last decade or so, from simple socket adapters, to real ‘everything to everything’ multi-converters. This stylish,compact unit from Aunno has inputs for UK, EU, US, Asian and Australian plugs, and you can plug it into the same.

It also has additional outputs, with two USB, and two USB-C sockets, to save you having to take additional converters for charging all of your devices. It has a built-in fuse and protection from overheating, as well as an intelligent IC

Pakka Waterproof Jacket

foldaway hood is fully adjustable for the perfect fit, and there are two convenient zipped pockets on the outside.

On the inside are two more very useful large pockets, which would be ideal for hiding away you map or suchlike, if you are caught in a sudden rain shower. We really like this item, and it is available in six colours, in mens and womens versions. There are also children’s versions, so you can have matching jackets for your whole family.

Find more info here: www.mountainwarehouse.com

chip to automatically adjust the power output depending on the device being charged.

And at just 120g, it’s not going to affect your baggage allowance unduly. In fact it will probably save you weight, as you won’t need to take so many other adapters!

Widely available via online shopping sites.

NEW BRUNSWICK Land of Lobsters

As Canada’s only officially bi-lingual Province, New Brunswick is a highly diverse land. But the one language everyone seems to speak is the language of the sea… and seafood… as Trevor Claringbold discovers, with a trip along the south east coastline.

Clambering up into the jaws of what is claimed to be the world’s largest lobster, and grinning stupidly for the obligatory photo, was certainly one of the more bizarre moments of my visit to Canada. This was, however, a week packed full of both lobsters, and surprises.

Flying into Halifax, Nova Scotia, a few hours drive brings me across the land bridge to the colourful streets of Moncton, New Brunswick. The city is perfectly placed within easy reach of both the Atlantic coast to the east, and the Bay of Fundy to the south. For two coastlines that are geographically quite close, they are very different in just about every other way.

For a relatively small city, Moncton has a remarkably eclectic blend of cultures that ranges from the indigenous Arcadian influence, through to German, Korean, and Italian inhabitants, as well as the British and French descendants. This mix is carried over into the food and drink too, as I discover during an enlightening foodie’s walking tour. This is a great way to not only get a real feel for Moncton, but also to sample a range of very tasty culinary outlets!

But I am keen to explore, and a short drive past pine forests, rivers and lakes, brings me to the pretty resort of Shediac. At first sight it seems a sleepy small town. A quaint main street lined with pretty timber buildings, and the locals wandering unhurriedly about their business. Yet behind the relaxing facade this is a busy working town – known as the Lobster Capital of the World.

The town’s most famous inhabitant will leave you in no doubt about this title. The eleven-metre-long sculpture claims to be the world’s largest lobster, weighing in at some 55 tonnes. The town has lobster processing plants, live-lobster tanks, and even a huge lobster festival each summer that has a 1000ft long table, and all-you-can-eat lobster on offer.

On the harbourside is an Eco-Centre, where you can learn about the life of a lobster in all of its ages and stages. You can also dip your hands in the touch tank, and even try holding a live lobster. If you’re lucky, you may even get to nestle one of the rare blue lobsters in your arms, and learn what it is that makes them this colour.

Of course, the two places you actually expect to see lobsters are in the sea, and on your plate, and Shediac Bay Cruises have great way to combine both. Hop on board for a delightfully informative and jovial two-hour cruise out around the bay, during which you will see how the lobster traps are used, how the lobsters are captured, and even cooked on board, before letting you try for yourself as a delicious, freshly cooked lobster completes the experience. Certainly, one of the most mouthwatering boat trips I’ve been on!

Lobsters may be king in this part of the world, but before you leave the eastern coast it’s perhaps time for some souvenir shopping. I’m a great believer in supporting local craftspeople – and especially those keeping traditions alive.

Marcia and Dave Poirier run Wild About Wampum. Wampum is the Native American word for ‘trade’, and centuries ago in this region that meant the small tubular beads that the Wampanoag Indians fashioned from the purple sections of the quahog clam shells. When the British arrived on these shores, a string of beads would sell to the settlers for 5 British Shillings – no insignificant amount in those days! Up until the late 1700’s, Wampum could even be used to pay tuition fees at Harvard University.

Marcia’s journey into shell jewellery began when she spotted a heart shaped design in a shell, and carved it out as a pendant. Over four years the couple developed better methods, and eventually progressed to producing the unbelievably beautiful and refined items that grace their shelves today. Only later did Marcia learn that what they were making was actually Wampum – continuing an art form that dates back hundreds of years.

The southern coast of New Brunswick couldn’t be more different. Dramatic cliffs, rocky outcrops, and wide river estuaries are all washed by the world’s highest tides. Nowhere is this more spectacularly in evidence than the towering Hopewell Rocks.

Towering, that is, when the tide is out! I’ve joined a tour hosted by an irrepressible bundle of fun, knowledge and enthusiasm called Anna-Marie Weir. She is an authority not just on the famous rocks, but on the whole Bay of Fundy coast, and seems to know almost everyone we encountered along the way. The tour is worked around the tides, so that you get the chance to walk on the seabed at low tide, and then come back later to witness the difference when 100 billion tonnes of seawater return – as it does twice a day.

Sneaking in the back gate of the Hopewell Rocks (because as I said, Anna-Marie knows everyone, and has purloined a spare key), we follow the winding path to the cliff top viewing platform. It’s an astonishing sight, as I find myself looking down onto majestic columns of dark red-brown

rock, topped with perfect mini-landscapes – complete with trees and shrubs.

The tide is out, revealing equally red-brown seabed, although the metal stairway leading down to the beach has warnings, and a large clock showing the time you need to be off the beach by to stay safe. As you set foot on the still-damp sand, the view is no less awe-inspiring, with a kind of rugged beauty that captivates the eye.

To fill the time until we return at high tide, our guide leads us along the road to the pretty fishing village of Alma, where once again lobsters are the prime attraction. At the Alma Lobster Shop there is an opportunity to hold some pretty huge examples, which reside in a tank in the gift shop. It is also a chance for Anna-Marie to give a lesson on how to completely strip a lobster using nothing but our bare hands, and various parts of the lobster itself, and then eat every last morsel of meat possible. It’s one of those impressive tricks that once learnt, you yearn to have an opportunity to show it off to your friends back home!

The road rises out of Alma heading into the dense forests of the Fundy National Park, with occasional glimpses of the sea glinting between the trees, and tales of bears and other creatures of the woods. We take a break at one of the many red covered bridges that dot this landscape, designed with a roof to stop the wooden roadway from rotting away in the damp climate, but they also served another purpose. The dark shadowy areas within would often play host to the amorous adventures of the local teenagers – giving them the nickname of ‘kissing bridges’!

At Cape Enrage, New Brunswick’s oldest operational lighthouse sits on top of the jagged cliffs, still warning sailors of the perilous rocks below. Alongside it is a very 21st Century zip-wire for anyone brave enough to have a go. The magnificent views in all directions – including straight down - are simply breathtaking, and the clear sea air simply encourages you to linger and marvel over your surroundings for as long as possible.

With the tide coming in, it’s time to head back to the Hopewell Rock, but this time there is to be no walking on the beach. The sea is now brown from the sediment below, and around four storeys high. It seems far more powerful, to the point of being almost menacing, whilst at the same time setting the heads of the rocks off in the most picturesque manner imaginable.

The Fundy Coastal Drive boasts mile after mile of wide sweeping bays and dramatic cliffs, with deep, mysterious caves hewn by the relentless waves, and a network of glorious forest paths.

Passing the Fownes Head viewpoint, it is time to say goodbye to the sea for a while, and head to the largest city on New Brunswick’s southern coast. It was French explorer Samuel de Champlain who first landed on the mouth of a mighty river in June 1604, and named both the harbour and the river St John, after St John the Baptist – whose saint’s day it happened to be.

After a century of French rule, St John passed to the British, and its importance as a trading post increased. The population swelled following the American Revolution, with 14,000 American supporters of the British arriving to settle the area with land grants from the Crown. In 1785 it was granted a Royal Charter and became Canada’s first city. By the mid 1800’s St John was the third largest city in the world.

Standing by the Victorian bandstand, it actually feels like the quintessential English market town, which is no surprise, really, since almost every street is named after a British city, or member of the Royal Family. Even the King’s Square and Queen’s Square are laid out in the shape of the Union Jack.

Head through the dark red doors and into the bustling City Market and you’ll immediately be struck by the sheer size of this intriguing building. Gazing up at the mass of carefully shaped roof timbers, a local gentleman commented that its design is based on an upturned ship’s hull. Apparently, at the time it was built, ships were the only thing this city knew how to construct on such a scale. So that’s exactly what they did!

The western end of New Brunswick’s Fundy coast opens up into the wildlife wonderland of Passamaquoddy Bay – named after the original Native American people who inhabited this region before the arrival of the Europeans. The bay is littered with islands, large and small, and shielded from the open sea by those called the Fundy Isles.

A small car ferry takes me on a half-hour crossing to Deer Island, to experience the idyllic scenery in a unique way. I’ve kayaked in many countries, and even tried a spot of yoga in one or two, but I’ve never before encountered a fusion of both.

The idea of ‘KaYoga’ is simple; blend the deeper sense of connection with the world around us that yoga brings, with the sense of peace and well-being that sea kayaking in these beautifully tranquil surroundings can instil.

After a restful yoga session, overlooking the refreshing ripples of a small bay, it’s time to don the lifejacket and slide the kayaks out into the deep blue waters. They look so serene, contrasted against the dark green backdrop of the surrounding forests. But don’t be fooled, though, as even in June, this water is only a couple of degrees above freezing.

The expert guide points out all manner of wildlife that our small group would have missed but for his well-trained eye. Bald eagles, seals and porpoises are all common in these waters, but the true beauty of this experience is simply the feeling of gliding smoothly and silently across the water, blending in with the natural world that surrounds us.

There is a sense of discovery, and even mystery about the excursion. Strange lines of dark posts stick out of the water in places, looking like the remains of some ancient ship that has lain here for centuries. In fact, they are used regularly by the local fishermen for nets. This is a totally enchanting landscape, and I would have loved to stay longer. But the final stop on my trip is waiting.

The small city of Saint Andrews occupies a narrow peninsular stretching out into Pssamaquoddy Bay. The wide streets rise gently from the water’s edge, each with a sprinkling of large, pastel-coloured homes set amid neatly trimmed gardens.

The aptly named Water Street runs parallel to the shore, and is lined with quaint, weather-boarded shops that have changed little in the last century. Each is painted in a different colour, enhanced by flags, or bright flowers in ornate hanging baskets, and all reminiscent of some pretty, colonial film set. If all cities were like this, nobody would ever want to leave, and peace would reign across the planet!

On the quayside are opportunities to join whale- watching boat trips. After enjoying the bay by kayak, I am eager for any excuse to head back onto the glistening waters, so I join an afternoon trip aboard the M/V Island Quest.

Gliding gently out of Saint Andrews harbour, and on to the open sea, we are treated to some revealing insights into both the islands around us, and the abundance of wildlife that inhabits the region. Finback, Humpback, Minke, and North Atlantic Right Whales are common, along with porpoises, seals and eagles, explains the captain. On deck, a marine biologist who doubles as a safety officer and hostess (now there’s a job you don’t see advertised often!), points out all kinds of sights, and answers questions.

It’s a fascinating tour, with stops to watch a colony of seals, marvel at a cliffside teaming with nesting birds, and see the huge nets that can farm some ninety thousand salmon – and

still have room to spare! As we cross the tidal whirlpools, where the waters from the bay meet the tides from the Bay of Fundy, we watch the lobster fishermen hauling in their catch.

Back in Saint Andrews, and after a sumptuous night at the Algonquin Resort, I was awake early to watch the sun rise across the bay. There is time to explore the nearby shops and gather the obligatory maple cream biscuits and maple syrup to take home.

I always enjoy chatting to the locals, and finding out their thoughts about the place they live. For Saint Andrews, as I suspected, nobody had a bad word to say. One suggested I visit a nearby horticultural delight, known as the Kingsbrae Garden. In fact, this is a collection of individual gardens that combine to offer an array of colour, foliage and unexpected treats.

With rose gardens, a labyrinth, a sculpture garden, orchards, a forest trail, perennials, ponds, and even a fully working one-third scale Dutch windmill, it’s a delight to just wander the many paths, enjoying the ever changing palettes and aromas. I felt a tinge of foolish glee as I wandered into the Children’s Fantasy Garden, with its magical teapot tree!

Sitting in the shade of a huge willow, the rest of the world seemed a million miles away. It’s been a long time since a trip has opened my eyes, and indeed my heart to a destination in quite the way this tour along the New Brunswick coast has. The scenery is stunning, the people are warm and welcoming, the food amazing, and the atmosphere is one of a region that is totally at ease with itself – and with the nature that it lives in harmony alongside. Oh, and it really does have the best lobsters in the world!

WHERE TO EAT

The Rossmount Inn, St Andrews

It’s not often that if you’re going to a restaurant in the evening, you join the owner on the shores of a lake in the morning to help forage for food. Yet that was exactly the experience I had with Chris Aerni of the Rossmount Inn. Chris is passionate about local ingredients, and that includes wild foods that he forages from the area around the prestige establishment. He was happy to explain his craft, and take diners on a tour of the restaurant’s own gardens too.

In the evening, the popular restaurant was busy and vibrant, without a single empty table – testament to Chris’s excellent reputation. The menu is amusingly separated into ‘land’ and ‘sea’, and if you are in this region make a point of coming here.

http://rossmountinn.com

WHERE TO STAY

The Algonquin Resort

This impressive resort in the heart of Saint Andrews has a feel somewhere between a colonial palace and a Scottish castle. From the moment you set foot into the white decor and dark wood reception, you sense the air of quality that has been a watchword here since 1889.

The hotel boasts indoor and outdoor pools, an 18-hole golf course, a delightful restaurant and a full spa and fitness centre. The 233 guest rooms reflect the Algonquin’s Victorian heritage whilst still offering all modern comfort and facilities, including flat screen televisions and free wifi.

Yet the Algonquin can’t be summed up just by facts and figures. It’s not just a hotel, it’s an experience. It’s the relaxed, elegant feeling as you sit on the terrace restaurant for your breakfast, and the quiet, unassuming way there is always a member of staff around just at the moment you need to ask something.

http://algonquinresort.com

The Chateau Moncton

A stylish, modern establishment overlooking the river, close the heart of Moncton. It’s within easy walking distance of the town centre shops and restaurants, and the new shopping mall is just across the road.

The rooms are comfortable and spacious, and the bright, airy restaurant and bar have views out onto the tidal river. The breakfast choice was reasonable, but easily pleased everyone who discovered the self-service pancake making machine!

www.chateaumoncton.ca

UsefUl InformatIon

ATLANTIC CANADA TOURISM

www.atlanticcanadaholiday.co.uk

CANADA TOURISM COMMISSION

www.keepexploring.ca

KAYOGA ON DEER ISLAND

www.seascapekayaktours.com

ISLAND QUEST MARINE WHALE WATCHING

www.islandquestmarine.com

KINGSBRAE GARDENS

www.kingsbraegarden.com

ROADS TO SEA TOURS

www.roadstosea.com

THE HOPEWELL ROCKS

www.thehopewellrocks.ca

WILD ABOUT WAMPUM

www.wildaboutwampum.com

SHEDIAC BAY CRUISES

www.lobstertales.ca

Polina’s Travel BOOKCASE

We all know that laying in the sun on a beach is one of the most relaxing things in the world, but sometimes that can make us feel a bit unsettled or bored.

Polina Rudichenko is here to bring you the solution

Lonely Planet Bird Atlas by Camilla de la Bedoyere illustrated by Josy Bloggs

Lonely Planet Bird

Atlas – by Camilla de la Bedoyere, illustrated by Josy Bloggs

Featuring amazing birds from all over the globe, this book is no ordinary encyclopaedia. It is published in the Lonely Planet Kids series, and is perfect for older children – although all ages will find it fascinating.

It features fold-out pages with endless facts and trivia about birds from every continent. From the flightless birds of Oceania to the owls of North America and penguins of Antarctica, this book covers the well-known and not-sowell-known birds of the planet; perfect for getting any child intrigued and fascinated. It also describes unique courtship displays, nest building techniques, and even how they hunt.

Not only is the book engaging with its’ bright colours, it includes masses of information, and a useful map with a pinpoint for each bird - perfect for learning whilst having fun!

PUBLISHED BY LONELY PLANET - ISBN - 978-1838699970

Stargazing Around the World

- A Tour of the Night Skyby Valerie Stimac

If you were intrigued by the Dark Sky trips in our ‘CheckIn’ news pages, this is the book to take it one step further. Including guides to dark-sky sites, stargazing hot-spot national parks, and places to see the aurora borealis and total solar eclipses for the next ten years, this almanac is perfect for both beginners and stargazing enthusiasts alike.

From Australia to the USA, from Iceland to Bolivia, this book can be used both as a destination finder and a general information guide- it really does contain everything you need to know about galaxies, stars, planets, and much more. But this guide is not only about the night sky. It includes key information, for example, about what equipment to rent at different stargazing sites, the best telescopes and binoculars, and indigenous myths about the stars from different areas, as well as information about the pioneers of space exploration.

With one hundred amazing sites from around the world, stunning astrophotography and details of observatories around the globe, this is a beautiful book for anyone who is amazed by the wonders of the world beyond planet Earth.

PUBLISHED BY LONELY PLANET - ISBN: 9781837581979

The D-Day Landings

- A Travel Guide to Normandy’s Beaches and Battlegrounds -

By Mary Ann Evans and Alastair McKenzie

June 6th this year marks the 80th anniversary of the most significant turning point of World War Two – the D-Day Landings. The largest seaborne invasion in history landed on the coast of Normandy, and over the next two months fought their way inland, leaving a mass of battlefields, military sites, war graves, and museums for the visitors of today to take in. But they cover a vast area, so a good guide book is essential.

Whether you are a history enthusiast seeking those significant combat zones, or a casual traveller just seeking to understand, and maybe pay tribute to the fallen, this guide will give you clear, easy to follow information for all the different regions and types of site.

Colour coding is useful for following the chronology of the actions, and the authors, who are experts on France and the Normandy Campaign, have peppered the text with human stories, and interesting snippets. A really useful guide, no matter what your reason for visiting Normandy.

PUBLISHED BY BRADT GUIDES – ISBN: 9781804691700

Flight-Free Europe

By Lonely Planet

Are you looking to live a more sustainable life, leaving a better world for future generations? Or are you just sick of check in queues, stressful security and sitting next to a screaming child for three hours in a stuffy metal cylinder? This book offers 80 European travel itineraries by bike, train or boat, but without ever having to set foot on a plane!

The inspiring itineraries are well laid out with maps, guides, and stopping off points, and whilst not for everyone, this book does offer a heart-warmingly different perspective on travel. We live in a fast paced, modern world, with the constant expectation of being able to do everything instantly, and with information at our fingertips.

This guide offers the alternative, and beautifully presents its benefits. With itineraries such as “An Icelandic Saga by Sea” and “Snow Train to the Alps”, it suggests trips to every corner of Europe, from beaches to mountains, from the edges of the Arctic to the islands of the Mediterranean. This book is for hikers, bikers and beach-loungers alike - just without the need to go to 30,000 feet on the way!

PUBLISHED BY LONELY PLANET - ISBN - 978-1837581719

The Travel Hack Handbook

By Lonely Planet

Are you going for a weekend getaway, or for six months of travelling? Are you looking to save your pennies, or is money no object? Whatever your circumstances, this book could help you mould your perfect trip wish cash to spare.

Lonely Planet’s travel experts have joined forces to bring you great hacks, money saving tips, advice for which mode of transport is best for which journeys (flying isn’t always best, especially if the airport experience sends you into a panic!), tricks to save time, tips for finding your perfect destination to begin with, a guide on how to avoid scams (which tourists are often more prone to falling for abroad) and much more.

It is compact but endlessly useful; and any anxieties you may have about travelling, this book covers them! Perfect for all ages, all destinations, and all budgets.

PUBLISHED BY LONELY PLANET - ISBN: 9781837580613

Saudi Arabia

By Grace Edwards

This is no ordinary country-travel guide- written by a female Middle East expert, Grace Edwards - who has decades of experience working in the Middle East as a cross-cultural business consultant amongst other notable roles in the world of business. It not only provides guidance for local etiquette and respecting the values of the country, but provides advice specifically for female travellers, such as where to sit on buses and taxis as well as rules on public displays of affection and dress code.

This guide book covers Saudi Arabia in a way never covered before in one book; it includes detailed maps, history, geography, climate, where to eat and stay, activities for those who like to have a relaxing time, as well as for thrill seekers. There are activities such as scuba-diving, mountain trekking, visiting sites of pre-Islamic rock art, and six rarely visited UNESCO World Heritage sites. It also has detailed sections on Riyadh, Jeddah, al Ula, Najd, Shammar, Hejaz, Asir, Sharqiyah,as well as Islamic and Nabatean cultures.

The book is colourful, informative and comprehensive, the perfect guide to take should you be travelling to the Kingdom. However, there will, of course, be travellers who will be against travel to a country where it is illegal to be a part of the LGBTQ+ community, or to be a woman pregnant before marriage - the latter being punishable by imprisonment, and the former by a capital sentence. Whilst we are not in the business of telling anyone what they should or should not do, this is certainly a country that you should do more of your own research before you decide to travel.

That said, Bradt are to be applauded for the best guide we have seen to date on a country that must be a difficult one to cover in the detail that Grace Edwards has. And even if you are not planning a visit, it actually makes a great read!

PUBLISHED BY BRADT GUIDES - ISBN: 9781784779337