Travel - Globetrotter Magazine - Issue 6

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From the Editor

With summer just around the corner, if you haven’t already, now is the time to start planning your upcoming trips. As always, we have plenty of inspiration for you in this issue, with glorious tropical beaches, a city break on the very edges of Europe, and a historic getaway that was a favourite of Beethoven, amongst others.

But, talking to many destinations and travel insiders in recent weeks, there are also a wealth of new and interesting trends for this year.

We mentioned in the previous issue the drive towards more experiential travel, where the destination is not so important, but what you can do when you are there is the driving factor. This is true for both staycations and overseas trips. Health travel has also grown in the type of opportunities it now offers, with combined hiking and wellness trips, or a kayaking-and yoga partnership for example. And film tourism has also seen an increase, with people travelling to visit places from their favourite film and TV locations.

As always, different destinations suddenly come to the fore as well. Gleaming new resorts are springing up on the Saudi Arabian coast of the Red Sea, for example, and off-grid getaways to remote regions of Canada have also begun attracting more young travellers – believed to be as a result of the BBC’s ‘Race Across the World’ TV series.

Are you the type of traveller who loves somewhere new and different? Or someone who prefers the safety of a tried and tested destination? Let us know your travel plans via our social media pages!

Happy travels!

Meet The Team

John is our Marketing Manager and Star Wars fan. He loves travelling to sunny places as long as the meals available don’t involve fish. Defines himself as a holidaymaker, not a traveller.

Anca is our Art Director and photo fanatic. She likes snow but is a lover of water and swiming as well, hence why she prefers warmer destinations for travelling.

Brittany takes a huge interest in environmental well-being and is educated in wildlife conservation. She loves meeting new people from all walks of life and has made it her mission to connect with many different cultures around the world.

Polina loves books, snakes and travelling. She collects early editions of classic novels, and will spend hours searching second hand bookshops. Her favourite destination? Anywhere with a nice pool!

East Coast Mountains, Taiwan
Brittany Nagora Polina Rudichenko
Anca Precub
John Plaskett

8 Victoria Falls

Brittany Nagora reminisces about a trip to one of Africa’s most iconic landmarks.

12 Cypsela

Can a Spanish campsite really be described as 5-Star? Trevor Claringbold takes the family to find out…

22 Windsor - A Royal Retreat

For most, Windsor is known for it’s impressive castle. Trevor Claringbold investigates what other delights this impressive town hides.

34 Taiwan: Land of Discovery - Behind the scenes -

Find out what it’s like to film a TV series in the Far East. Trevor Claringbold goes behind the scenes.

64 Luxury Hideaways on the Dalmatian Coast

Anca Precub sets her sights on Croatia as she investigates two little known islands on the Dalmatian Coast.

82 Destination Zero Waste - Tunisia

How can we be more conscious and impactful with where and how our travels benefit a country? Liu Batchelor travelled to North Africa to find out.

ON THE COVER

Kornati region in Croatia
Taken by Anca Precub

Regular Features

18 Check In Travel News from around the world.

33

Your Photos

Send us your favourite travel photo and we’ll feature it with the story behind it.

42 Through the Lens

With so much beauty on display, taking photos in Dordogne can be harder than it sounds!

58 Travel Tech

Anca Precub tests out tech devices that will make travel easier and more enjoyable.

62 Meet the Team

A spotlight on presenter, Liu Batchelor.

79 Smart Pack

What to pack for your trip? Useful travel accesories for everyone.

91 Polina’s Travel Bookcase

Must read books while laying in the sun, (or even cozying up to a fireplace). 8

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Globetrotter Magazine 2 Fremantle Road Folkestone Kent, CT20 3PY, Uk www.globetrottertv.com

Editorial email: magazine@globetrottertv.com

General Enquiries: info@globetrottertv.com

Tel: 00 44 (0)1303 850801

Editor Trevor Claringbold

Art Director & Deputy Editor Anca Precub

Graphic Designer John Plaskett

Advertising Executive Emma Plaskett

Artwork and Design Kudosmedia www.kudosmedia.org

Editorial Integrity: Whilst some trips featured in this publication are sponsored by organisations or hotels in the destination, those organisations have no input into the editorial content, which is wholly and uniquely the impartial work of our writers.

All material is Copyright

Mosi-oa-Tunya ‘The Smoke That Thunders’

BRITTANY NAGORA REMINISCES ABOUT A TRIP TO ONE OF AFRICA’S MOST ICONIC LANDMARKS.

The stunning waterfall that forms the international boundary between Zimbabwe and Zambia may have been christened Victoria Falls in 1855 (born from the Scottish explorer David Livingstone’s tribute to Queen Victoria), but the name Mosi-oa-Tunya – or ‘The Smoke That Thunders’originates from the early 19th century (Ma)Kololo people of Southern Africa and is still used today by the Lozi in the area. The Victoria Falls, and the National Park that protects the rainforest surrounding it and a portion of the Zambezi River, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. So, if you’re looking for adventure, this is the place to find it.

ONE DECADE AGO, ON THE 17TH JANUARY 2014, I ARRIVED IN VICTORIA FALLS.

I initially saw a glimpse of the waterfall from above, before landing on the Zimbabwean side of Victoria Falls. As I stared out from my window seat, the spray from the Falls caught my eye. Our altitude made the waterfall appear pocket-sized and almost unremarkable at the time, although pleasant to look at as the mist floated gently above the gorge.

Once settled into our accommodation, my travel companion and I set out on rented bicycles to make our way over to the heart of the Victoria Falls National Park. Pedalling past the lush landscape, engaging in brief encounters with baboons, was a raw and welcome excitement as the exhilaration of facing African wildlife without barriers had never been a possibility. Coming into close contact with these commanding yet beautiful creatures, I quickly learned that human-wildlife interactions were the norm, especially for those residing in communities close to national parks.

Locals recounted how just one week prior to us arriving, a large rhino had wandered past the shops through the town. A few days in, it also dawned on me that each species I crossed paths with seemed to be carrying

out their own personal errands, much like you or I would each day. They had their regular routines and ventures to attend to, as did we, all while enjoying a sunny day. The balance between species felt natural, although I had never experienced it before, and for moments like those in the cohabited town, I felt as though the baboon and I were equals. Truly wonderful.

As we approached the waterfall, just out of sight, I had to rely on my other senses to anticipate what I was about to experience. My heart started beating, beating, beating. The excitement I felt began building more urgently with each step closer until the intensity of the roaring Falls drowned out my other senses. I quickened my pace, and the ‘thunder’ echoed louder in my ears. Even without a visual aid, I could gauge that the sheer size of the falls was beyond my comprehension; the sound was enormous and dwarfed both myself and initial expectations entirely. Skipping steps, my stride was more hurried than ever to see the sound that was vibrating in my ears. I pushed past the dense rainforest’s vegetation and was met with a vista so indescribable; I was unexpectedly overcome by emotions, and I felt myself holding back tears. Victoria Falls: a symphony of sounds and awe.

I momentarily lost control of my breath as I was stunned into silence. It was the most overwhelming beauty I had ever seen, and Victoria Falls still holds a cherished place in my memories due to the true rush of emotions and grandeur I experienced that day.

As we continued along the path through the rainforest and towards the Zambian border, we arrived at our end destination - Rainbow Falls. The spray and mist drenched us from head to toe and we delighted in the moment alongside other visitors to the Falls.

UP-CLOSE AND PERSONAL

In the following days spent exploring, we walked, swam, white water rafted down, and flew over Victoria Falls encountering many local species, including the camera-shy warthog, brightly coloured blister beetles, and the remarkable 1500-year-old baobab, Adansonia digitata, dubbed ‘The Big Tree’ - accurately named might I say. Victoria Falls’ diverse ecosystems provided a refuge for wildlife and several conservation efforts were underway within the national parks and protected areas to preserve the region’s native heritage and natural beauty.

Our safari trek through the Stanley and Livingstone Private Game Reserve allowed us to see an incredible slew of animals in their natural habitat, from the comfort of an open-roofed 4x4. Apart from Africa’s ‘Big Five’, the area supported a wide variety of other animals, including waterbucks, kudus, zebras, giraffes, as well as foraging primates like the vervet monkey and a wealth of bird species. The highlight of our journey though was encountering a herd of African bush elephants, Loxodonta africana, during their evening meal.

We halted our progress along the path to avoid disturbing them, but our approach caught the attention of the alpha bull who emerged from the bush and confronted us in a protective stance. I lifted my camera and began to snap photos furiously, captivated by the immense creature poised to charge. Fortunately, a light beep of the horn startled the elephant, and he swiftly turned on his heels back into the bush, leaving both parties unharmed.

Similarly, the black and white rhinoceroses in the area exhibited incredible liveliness, particularly one youthful individual who proved to be the most playful among them. As we traversed the trails leading from the expansive grasslands, the adolescent rhino barrelled up to the back of our vehicle, darted through the bush alongside us, and swiftly emerged in front of us. Despite its youth, it was surprisingly fast, effortlessly matching our speed; not to mention its sheer size relative to our 4x4.

Our final animal encounter surpassed even my wildest

fantasies. As part of a daring conservation project, that day I had the opportunity to stroll alongside not one, but two wild lionesses accustomed to human presence. These magnificent felines moved with a commanding grace, each step a testament to their strength. I respectfully paraded behind them, with a walking stick in one hand and my other firmly petting the lion’s back. My heart raced with a blend of excitement and caution while the guide’s words echoed in my head—keep up with the lions, avoid sudden movements, and, most importantly, tap the stick to distract them if their focus turns to you.

Anyone familiar with cats knows they can be playful yet unpredictable; lions are no different. The lionesses glanced around, but never directly back at me, although even the slightest twitch of their tails kept me on my toes as our group ventured deeper into the heart of their territory. I was amazed at how the lions placed their trust in people enough to allow us such close proximity.

Overall, this encounter deepened my commitment to conservation efforts and inspired me to pursue a career dedicated to safeguarding our natural world. Every animal interaction I had was more unique than the next and affirmed the importance of education and responsible stewardship in preserving biodiversity.

A DIP IN THE RIVER

…the Zambezi River that is. In our last venture, we braved ‘the biggest, meanest white water in the world – the mighty Zambezi River, in nothing more than a rubber raft’ with a group of burly South Africans and our spirited leader, affectionately nicknamed ‘Sausage’ by the other Shearwater Rafting guides.

After completing thorough safety instructions, we set out and carefully descended the mountain slope with our paddles in hand, heading toward a calm starting area to launch into the rapids. Initially uncertain and needing persuasion from my travel companion to try white water rafting, my nerves were sky-high. Not only do the 24 rapids range in grades and intensity, but the conditions change with the seasons; flooding is common in the rainy season between November to April, which we experienced first-hand on our visit. It led us to skip over rapids like No. 6 ‘Devil’s Toilet Bowl’, No. 9 ‘Commercial Suicide’ and No. 10 ‘Gnashing Jaws of Death’, and instead opted for the marginally calmer No.12A, B & C ‘Three Ugly Sisters’, No.17 ‘Judgement Day’ and the Largest Rapid No.18 named ‘Oblivion’.

The roar of the Zambezi River filled the air as I gripped my paddle so forcefully that my knuckles turned white, my eyes widened with fear, and I ran off pure adrenaline. Amidst the chaos, Sausage’s voice cut through, shouting his final instructions as our raft approached the first set of rapids. The river churned and frothed ahead like a wild beast beckoning us into its jaws. My heart pounded in rhythm with the surging water, and I found myself sheepishly retreating inward like a turtle into its shell. The raft lurched forward, crashing into the whitewater, and a squall of spray rained down from the waves. Despite my adrenaline spike, I was relieved to have survived the first round as the raft bucked and twisted.

Confidence grew with each passing obstacle. I dug my paddle into the water repeatedly, my muscles straining, yet the raft began to glide smoothly over the water without a hitch. The Zambezi roared its challenge, and I, now emboldened, beamed in defiance. I felt like a Viking conquering each new height of the rapids. We surged forward, plunging into the tumultuous waters, and our laughter and shouts mingled with the river’s thunderous roar. We eventually reached a calm area where the river slowed, allowing us to catch our breath. Jumping out of the raft, we clung to its sides, enjoying the current as it let us flow effortlessly down the Zambezi.

I glanced around at my fellow rafters, their faces reflecting their own mix of emotions from the experience. As we emerged, breathless and triumphant, I knew this adventure would be etched into my memory forever—a testament to the thrill of facing nature’s raw, untamed power head-on. Well worth every second.

USEFUL LINKS:

VICTORIA FALLS TOURISM www.victoriafallstourism.org

SHEARWATER RAFTING www.shearwatervictoriafalls.com/experience/ white-water-rafting

STANLEY AND LIVINGSTONE

PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

www.south-african-lodges.com/lodges/the-stanleyand-livingstone-at-victoria-falls/

W.H.C, UNESCO (2024) MOSI-OA-TUNYA

VICTORIA FALLS, UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE CENTRE. whc.unesco.org/en/list/509

CYPSELA

A 21st Century Camping Trip to the Costa Brava

Can a Spanish Campsite really be described as 5-Star?

Trevor Claringbold takes the family to find out…

If you’ve ever driven around the coast from the south of France into northern Spain, you’ll know what a sudden and dramatic change it is – particularly in the height of summer. Gone are the seemingly endless traffic queues of the French holiday period, the vast wetland areas and lakes, and the flatlands and sand dunes that stretch for as far as the eye can see.

Cross the Mediterranean end of the Pyrenees and it’s not just the language that changes. Warm yellow rocks surround rugged, picturesque bays, winding country roads are pleasant and peaceful, and gloriously scented pine forests lead down to steeply sloping sandy beaches. Welcome to the Costa Brava.

Of course, this region has long been a favourite of British visitors. It was one of the first regions to succumb to the mass influx of the package tours back in the 1960’s, but now there is a whole new breed of traveller discovering its charms... and a completely different way for families to enjoy it.

Twenty-first century campsites are a world away from the rough fields, poor sanitation, leaky tents and caravans of days gone by. Many today are more akin to complete resorts, with modern facilities, top class entertainment, and a wide choice of clean, spacious, self-catering accommodation.

This was our first trip to Spain with Canvas Holidays, staying at a site called Cypsela around 25 miles east of Girona. First impressions were very good, with a swift, efficient check in, and a friendly welcome from the Canvas Holidays staff that showed us to our accommodation.

Cypsela is a large, five-star site, yet never felt overcrowded or noisy. The broad avenues meander through a forest of pine trees – many of them over 100 years old. This creates a gloriously natural feel, not to mention a delightfully fresh aroma to accompany breakfast on your private veranda.

We opted for one of the Select 3-bedroom mobile homes, which was ideal. Inside it’s well equipped, with a fully fitted kitchen, air conditioning, and plenty of room in the lounge area. The bedrooms are a little tight for space, but with such a charming resort, you’re never likely to be spending lots of time there! Everything worked as it should, everything was clean, and the whole ambience was just right.

Outside you have a wide decking area, with table and chairs nestling under the dappled cover of the pine canopy. There is also an easy to use gas barbecue, and ample space to park your car off the road.

If you can tear yourself away, there are, of course, plenty of other attractions within the resort. First stop for most people is the huge pool area. With a 500-metre square main pool, a smaller paddling pool for the younger visitors, diving boards, and spectacular four-lane water slide, there is plenty to occupy the whole family. There are ample sunbeds, even at busy times, an ice cream kiosk, children’s play area, and a large garden area with volleyball and tabletennis tables.

If you can tear yourself away, there are, of course, plenty of other attractions within the resort. First stop for most people is the huge pool area. With a 500-metre square main pool, a smaller paddling pool for the younger visitors, diving boards, and spectacular four-lane water slide, there is plenty to occupy the whole family. There are ample sun-beds, even at busy times, an ice cream kiosk, children’s play area, and a large garden area with volleyball and table-tennis tables.

And this is just one area. On the other side of the resort is another large sports complex, which includes boules, basketball, and even a football pitch. Everything at Cypsela has a feeling of quality, from the food in the restaurant, to the evening entertainment.

As someone who travels regularly, and especially with a family, it was also particularly encouraging to get a sense that every visitor was genuinely a valued guest, and not just another customer. Nothing seemed too much trouble for any member of staff, either site staff or the dedicated Canvas team.

Even the prices on site were no more expensive than what you’d expect to pay outside. Indeed, we actually checked some of the on-site supermarket prices against those in the nearby town, and found the Cypsela ones to be cheaper. Now that’s a welcome surprise!

If you’re heading out, there is a free shuttle bus to the beautiful sandy beach nearby, which takes just five minutes. Clear blue seas await, with immaculate, pale sand for as far as the eye can see. In the height of the summer holidays, there was always plenty of space, whichever direction you chose.

For the more adventurous, there is a full programme of trips and activities available from Cypsela, including boat trips, scuba diving, kayaking, paddle surfing, and snorkelling. There is a small town just ten minutes walk along the road, with a range of shops and restaurants, or the main town of Pals just a fifteen-minute drive away.

Further afield, trips to Girona, Barcelona, or even up into the Pyrenees are also popular, but it was the small town of Pals itself that took us by surprise. After a strenuous afternoon relaxing on the beach, we planned to take a cursory look at the nearby town before heading back for dinner. Parking in the small car park on the edge of town, we treated ourselves to ice creams and began to wander up the winding, narrow street.

We were totally unprepared for what turned out to be one of the most charming Spanish hilltop towns I’ve ever had the pleasure to explore. And explore is what you need to do, because every twisting, turning little street has a different delight to witness.

Both the castle and the church date back to the 9th Century, and the towers, walls, and fortified houses followed over the next few hundred years. Crossing the medieval square, under Gothic stone arches, and climbing the steep cobbled road leads you up to several panoramic viewpoints. With the sun beginning to set, it is the ideal place to survey the glorious countryside of the region. In the distance the coastline glistens, and the Medes Islands break the horizon.

As we head back for our last night at Cypsela, and relax over dinner under the stars, it makes the whole family even more determined that this will definitely be a place we’ll return to.

For me, Girona has always been an airport. For longer than I care to remember I’ve seen it on plane tickets,

itineraries, and airport departure boards. Until now, I’ve never really given much thought to the city that gave the airport its name. So, being so close, a chance to redress that was most welcome.

The modern city lies predominantly on the west bank of the Rio Onyar, but for most visitors it’s the historic old town that’s the prime focus. Enclosed by high city walls, the labyrinth of narrow streets rise steeply from the east bank, and are crowned by a range of impressive buildings that act as a mirror to Girona’s history.

That history stretches back to pre-Roman times, and the more you wander, and take note of the eclectic mix of architectural styles, the more it becomes apparent that this is a city with more influences than most!

As the Roman city of Gerunda, it was a vital fortress on the Via Augusta. Following the Moorish invasion, it became an Arab town for over two centuries, with plenty of Arabic reminders still visible. There is also significant evidence of a six hundred year long Jewish presence. More recently, it was attacked several times by the French during the Napoleonic wars, and by the 18th Century Girona had been besieged no less than 21 times.

Yet it’s this bizarre mixture that makes it such a delight to explore. The lower streets have all manner of small independent shops to delve into, and the wider Rambla Libertat is lined with pavement cafes, and a vibrant, cosmopolitan feel. Climb the narrow alleyways, and stone stairways, and you’ll discover a world that has changed little over the centuries.

The undoubted centrepiece is the dramatic gothic Cathedral, with its magnificent facade, and mighty flight of seventeenth century steps that provide a superb view across the city from the top. Inside, the nave has the largest single span of any in the world at a staggering 22 metres, giving an immense sense of space.

The old city is not huge, and you can easily meander around almost every street in an hour. It’s worth taking your time, however, and admiring the details, the many different styles, and just trying to imagine what it was like for those who walked these very streets as far back as the Roman times. As you head back down to the river, take a moment to admire the multi-coloured buildings that struggle to maximise every inch of space by extending out over the water.

Girona is a delightful place to visit, either if you’re staying on the Costa Brava, or indeed in its own right. After all, it does have a very convenient airport!

USEFUL LINKS:

CANVAS HOLIDAYS www.canvasholidays.co.uk

COSTA BRAVA TOURISM www.costabrava.org

THREE NEW SAILINGS REVEALED BY FRED OLSEN CRUISE LINES

Explorers looking for their next adventure can take advantage of three new shorter sailings as part of Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines 2025 world cruise. The Bolette begins her maiden 106-night world voyage in January 2025, departing from Southampton on 6th January.

Guests can embark on a 56-night ‘Exploring South America and the Pacific Islands’, where they will be able to see some of the world’s most breath-taking panoramas including the differing landscapes of Chile, witness the Moai statues on Easter Island and discover lesser-known gems like Robinson Crusoe Island.

On 3rd March, Bolette will depart on a 29-night ‘Australian and South African Discovery’ cruise from Sydney, where guests will enjoy chances to encounter fascinating nature and wildlife and explore iconic sites such as the Opera House, Uluru and the Great Barrier Reef in Australia before exploring the changing landscapes of Reunion Island and search for the Big Five in South Africa.

Alternatively, the 21-night ‘Scenic Vistas and Diverse Cultures of Africa’ cruise, leaving Cape Town on 1st April, will see guests explore the vast landscapes of the Namib Desert, witness Senegalese folklore and tribal cultures and experience the remoteness of the subtropical island of Jamestown, St Helena.

For further information visit: www.fredolsencruises.com/ world-cruises-and-grand-voyages

CAIRNGORM MOUNTAIN LAUNCHES EXCITING NEW MOUNTAIN CARTING

Cairngorm Mountain in Scotland is launching a thrilling new mountain carting experience from July 2024. Ideal for both adults and teenagers, the new experience will run throughout the school holidays and on weekends from the summer season, bringing adrenaline-fuelled downhill rides of almost 2km.

The first ride of its kind in Scotland, the mountain carting experience will be led by an experienced guide with two sessions daily throughout the season. Suitable for those aged 14 or over, the sessions will include an exciting ride to the top of the trail in the back of an off-road ‘Unimog’ vehicle, offering views at over 900 metres above sea level before the thrill of the downhill challenge begins.

The mountain carting trail twists and turns through 1.9km, heading downhill to finish back at the base station. Riders will be given equipment and training, with the whole session guided by experts and lasting around 45 minutes.

CEO of CMSL, Susan Smith, commented: “Our exciting new mountain carting adds another adrenaline-fuelled experience to our summer offering – visitors are really going to love it! This is just one of a number of great new plans in the pipeline for the resort, with an exciting

and major expansion of our play park coming later in the summer.”

With environmental rangers who oversee the protection of the site and can offer insights into its unique nature, visitors can also learn about the Cairngorms and Scotland’s mountain environment.

To find out more, visit www.cairngormmountain.co.uk/ mountain-carts

GO QUEST ADVENTURES ANNOUNCES NEW LAUNCH AND EXCLUSIVE OFFER TO MARK ANNIVERSARY

elf-guided city trail company, Go Quest Adventures celebrated its second anniversary recently with the launch of a new Quest, reimagined website and app as well as a limited time only discount code for Quest-goers.

Turning city streets into adventure playgrounds, Go Quest Adventures is a hugely popular interactive walking treasure hunt with a twist. Since its inception it has already established Quests in 23 cities across the UK.

As part of their birthday celebrations, the city trail company has announced Exeter as its latest Quest to be unlocked giving tourists, as well as those who live in the area, the opportunity to explore and experience all that ‘the country’s greenest city’ has to offer including the Quayside, Northernhay Gardens, Britain’s narrowest street and a House That Moved.

The interactive two-three hour experience is perfect for groups of all sizes and is accessed via a free app with a competitive leaderboard and monthly prizes. During a Quest, teams work together to solve clues, puzzles, and challenges that encourage them to explore local streets, learn about the city’s history and uncover secrets whilst witnessing beautiful landscapes and creating long lasting

memories with friends, family, and colleagues along the way.

Go Quest Adventures has also overhauled its app and website which has just launched featuring a new look and feel and seamless user journey, as well as a special birthday promotion. Those who book during the month of June will receive a 20% discount on all Quests across the UK using the code BIRTHDAY20 upon checkout.

For more information on Go Quest Adventures, or to book, visit https://goquestadventures.com/

WALK JAPAN LAUNCHES THE KYOTO: MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA

Walk Japan has launched a new Kyoto: Mountains to the Sea tour, exploring Kyoto Prefecture, a bucolic rural region, where the contrast with Kyoto’s urban landscape could not be more stark. Yet, it is here that much of the sublime foods and crafts the city is famed for have been sourced for over a millennia.

Kyoto: Mountains to the Sea is a fully guided, eight-day tour that ventures through Kyoto’s backcountry. This lovely countryside is where the pace of life is still measured by seasons, and a multitude of colourful festivals throughout the year. Here, however, visitors, both Japanese and from overseas, are few and far between.

The tour follows ancient trails, once vital for commerce and communication, that weave their way through valleys and over high passes until culminating on the rugged Sea of Japan coast at Amanohashidate, rightly considered one of Japan’s three classic vistas. En route, it passes through little-known villages and aside historic temples and shrines, some grand and some very rustic.

Accommodation each night is in Japanese inns, where friendly hosts provide warm welcomes and mouthwatering meals composed of locally sourced and grown ingredients. Try a taste of Kyoyasai heirloom vegetables, Miyama ayu sweetfish, Tanba buri yellowtail, and saba mackerel.

For this and other walking tours in Japan, visit: Kyoto: Mountains to the Sea - Walk Japan Guided Tours

WIZZ AIR ANNOUNCES NEW ROUTE FROM GATWICK TO VARNA, BULGARIA

Wizz Air has announced a new summer route from London Gatwick to Varna in Bulgaria. The flights will be operated three times per week on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, adding to five existing flights per week from Luton. Between the two airports, Wizz Air will be serving the London – Varna connection daily.

Varna is the historical maritime capital of Bulgaria, and the nation’s third-largest city. Situated on the coast of the Black Sea, it is a combination of port, naval base and seaside resort with an array of attractions for UK travellers. Its 32km long coastline offers more than 22 beachesmaking it a perfect alternative destination for a holiday this summer.

History lovers can explore the city’s Archaeological Museum and Roman Thermae Baths - the largest in Bulgaria, and the fourth-largest of their kind in Europe. With WIZZ Flex fares, passengers can cancel their flight up to three hours before departure without any fee and receive 100% of the fare immediately reimbursed in airline credit.

COLDITZ CASTLE REOPENS WITH A NEW EMOTIONAL TOUR

After two years of intense planning and a six-month closure for conversion work, Colditz Castle near Leipzig has reopened with a new emotional tour. Across an area of approximately 1,300 m², three areas of the once magnificent hunting lodge are now open to the public for the first time. In the Cellar House, Castle Chapel and Prince’s House, visitors can view more than 300 exhibits and experience immersive scenes from 500 years’ of the castle’s history. It covers both the glamourous and darker times, including when Colditz served as a prisoner of war camp, a mental asylum, and a hospital. The eventful stories from these chapters are now brought to life with augmented reality.

The tour focuses on two particularly defining eras, as visitors are taken back to the Renaissance in 1520. At that time Frederick the Wise used Colditz as a hunting lodge. Today, however, only a few elaborately painted coffered ceilings are testimony of this time. A new HistoPad recreates scenes of the elector’s daily life as well as the magnificent design of the rooms.

The other key area of the tour is World War II. From 1940 Colditz Castle was a prisoner of war camp for high-ranking officers of the western allies. Prominent prisoners kept here at Oflag IV C included the nephews of both Winston Churchill and the British King at the time, George VI. The many impressive prisoner escape attempts are regarded, particularly in Great Britain, as legendary, and have become popular thanks to the TV series and book “The

Colditz Story”. Through these stories, Colditz Castle has become a symbol of freedom. The tour recreates ten of the more than 300 escape attempts and brings them to life in a unique way.

The Castle is open until November 2024, and then from Spring 2025. It is not suitable for wheelchairs due to the nature of the historical building.

For further information visit: www.schloss-colditz.de

B r i g h t S a n d s

W a r m M e m o r i e s

A d v e n t u r e o f a L i f e t i m e

OPENING AUGUST 1

WINDSOR - A Royal Retreat -

Recent research tells us that more and more travellers are taking extra short breaks to supplement their traditional holidays. And with good reason, it seems. A quick trip away with the family can be both enjoyable and educational, as well as a much-needed escape from the wealth of depressing news that seems to surround us at the moment.

So how do you fancy a weekend exploring the Royal Parks, taking a cruise on the Thames, admiring historic buildings, and shopping in the shadow of His Majesty’s back garden? A trip to London then, right? Well, no.

A few miles upstream, the area around Windsor offers a far more relaxed, and less crowded option, in a truly delightful setting. Of course, Windsor itself is known around the world for its famous castle, and naturally that’s a focal point for most people coming here. But there is a whole lot more to captivate the visitor, both in the town, and in the surrounding area.

Windsor, on the south bank, and Eton, across the historic bridge on the north bank of the Thames in Berkshire, are both easily explored on foot – and that’s probably the best way. With a web of intriguing narrow streets, enticing alleyways, and riverside paths, it’s a delight to just wander and soak up the quintessentially English atmosphere.

Even if you’re not visiting the castle, it’s impossible to avoid it. The gloriously imposing structure overlooks the whole town, and dominates the landscape from almost every direction. That’s no bad thing, however, since it’s certainly one of the most aesthetically pleasing fortifications in the country.

The main street skirts the castle walls, and is, as you would expect, a mass of tourist shops and well-known food and drink chains. But for all that it still has an unmistakable, appealing buzz about it. Take a look above the glass frontages and brand names, though, and you’ll get a far better impression of the buildings that Kings and Queens have looked down on for centuries from their royal residence across the street.

The 17th Century Guildhall, just along from the castle, was built by local boy Christopher Wren. There is a story that the local councillors didn’t trust the design, which only had pillars around the outside, and a large unsupported area in the centre. Ever the diplomat, Wren therefore added columns in the centre, but made them so that they didn’t quite reach the ceiling – thereby reinforcing his plan, but with a safeguard in place for the council. Take a look and you will see that the tiny gap still exists to this day.

On Castle Hill, adjacent to the fortified entrance, the cobbled road and quaint shops add to the character of the area. Amid the narrow lanes, which have been here almost as long as the Substantial defensive walls, the ambience is enhanced by random characters in their period costumes. Seeing Queen Elizabeth I, casually flicking through the postcard rack outside a local shop, certainly adds something to your visit!

Across the street is the railway station that Queen Victoria once regularly used. Now, though, the platforms have been moved a few hundred yards further along the line, and the fabulously ornate 19th Century structure is now home to an attractive indoor shopping centre. The pretty market stalls, traditional sweet shops, and cafe in the old ticket hall make for a unique experience. At the far end is one of the original old steam locomotives, now preserved immaculately for all to see.

Along the waterfront there are pleasant gardens and parks from which to enjoy the river. As befitting a Royal Borough, there are majestic white swans supported by choruses of ducks. But for the best view of the Thames take a trip on one of the many river cruisers, and let the scenery pass you by accompanied by an informative and topical commentary.

There’s only one bridge across the River Thames here – a busy viewing platform that is supposedly pedestrian-only. That doesn’t mean you are totally safe, however, as there seemed to be a constant stream of pushbikes hurtling across like missiles. The risk is worth it, however, as stretching up the hill on the north bank is the equally appealing town of Eton.

Unlike Windsor, Eton is essentially one long medieval street, lined with alluring independent shops, which lead up to the famous college at the top. It has an air of the past about it; of days when cucumber sandwiches and ginger beer were the fast food of their day, and schoolboys in shorts and caps would play jolly japes on each other. As you’ll appreciate, dear reader, this was not a poor area.

Even today, it has an elegant and refined feel that difficult to pinpoint. A sense of quality, one might say.

A trip on the excellent, open-topped City Sightseeing Bus gives a wider view of this, and the surrounding area. Taking in both Windsor and Eton, it also encircles large expanses of Windsor Great Park, drops in on the Legoland theme park, and even obligingly stops for photos at the end of the ‘Long Walk’ – the mile long, dead straight broad avenue of trees leading directly to the castle. An interesting, and often amusing commentary imparts a lot of information along the way, and highlights places of interest that might otherwise be missed.

Windsor Great Park is vast, with many picturesque settings and attractions. A few miles south of Windsor, in the heart of the park, is the Savill Garden. The 35 acres of ornamental gardens and woodlands lie across a gentle valley, which offers some magnificent, colourful vistas, and idyllic walks. It’s cleverly planted so that there are seasonal delights no matter when you visit, and even if the weather is inclement you can take shelter in the warm Queen Elizabeth Temperate House, and enjoy the Mediterranean warmth.

Whatever your personal likes and interests, there is ample to excite and occupy you in the Windsor area. It’s easy to hire your own boat, go cycling, take carriage rides, or just relax and wander. It’s undoubtedly family friendly, with many of the activities and places of interest appealing to the younger generation. After all, if it’s good enough for the King....

WHERE TO STAY

The Runnymede-on-Thames - Egham, Surrey, TW30 0AG www.therunnymede.co.uk

Runnymede was the location for one of the most significant events in English history – the signing of the Magna Carta. When King John met his Barons, and put his mark on the document in 1215, it had a significant influence on rights and freedoms not just in this country, but ultimately throughout the known world.

That in itself should be a good enough reason to come and stay here, especially with the family, but there is another. The Runnymede-on-Thames.

Regular readers will know I am not always a fan of British hotels, which often seem left behind by their international counterparts. The Runnymede-on-Thames is an exception of the highest order.

It’s stylish, efficient, and immensely impressive, and yet still manages that most difficult of balances – it still feels homely and instantly comfortable. It’s set in a prime riverfront location, amid its own pleasant gardens, within easy reach of the M25 and Heathrow Airport (neither of which are a noise issue). There are outdoor play areas for the children, astro-turf tennis courts, as well as a top quality spa and wellness area, with a gorgeous pool.

The bright, spacious rooms are well appointed, extremely comfortable, and those overlooking the river have the most delightful view to wake up to in the morning.

I have to give high praise too for the ‘Left Bank’ restaurant, not just for the food, which was indeed excellent, but also for the unique welcome. Often hotel restaurants can appear confusing when so many offerings are cooked to order, but in a buffet style. Personally, I like this format, but I know others get nervous of ‘doing the right thing’. So, it was very pleasant to be welcomed on our first night, shown all the various ‘stations’, and how they operated. Perfectly done, in

a friendly, helpful manner. And I have to say the cuisine lived up to the expectations in every sense.

To emphasise the child-friendly nature of the hotel, at the weekends there’s a special Ducklings Dinner (Ducks being the hotel’s symbol), when children can help the chef build their meal.

Being on the Thames, the hotel has two unique offerings that are a bit special. Firstly, the ‘Hot Tug’, which is the ultimate ‘must try’ treat. It’s essentially a hot tub which is a small boat on the river. The wood fired burner heats the water to a balmy 38 degrees, and you relax in the hot tub as you cruise down the Thames. When filled, your shoulders are at water level both inside and outside the tug.

For the more traditional, the Runnymede-on-Thames also has its own small boats to hire. They hold up to 6 passengers, are easy to drive, and the environmentally friendly electric engines mean you can silently cruise along this most attractive part of the River Thames. You can even arrange a picnic basket to complete the magical adventure.

As you will have gathered, I was very impressed with the Runnymede-on-Thames... very impressed indeed. Perhaps the best testament is to explain that traditionally I would balance things with mention of a couple of niggles, or things that were not quite up to scratch. In this case, however, I couldn’t think of any.

YOUR PHOTOS

Been somewhere captivating ? Done something amazing ? Email us your journeys to magazine@globetrotter.com or tag us on Instagram using #globetrottermag and you could have your image shown here in a future issue.

Andrew Lewis - @andrewmlphotography on Instagram

My wife and I went to Killarney’s beautiful Lake Hotel for a little holiday together after we got married. This beautiful area is surrounded by mountains and lakes which was a welcome change from the flat regions where we currently reside in the UK.

These were taken during our stay, hiking around the Muckross Lake. The first is of Torc Waterfall just around the corner of the Killarney National Park. The second one is one of the lakeside views of the mountains as we trekked around the area. It is hard not to come by a stunning view while hiking around the lakeside and would highly recommend the Lake Hotel for some wonderful spa experiences and gorgeous fine dining food.

Location: Killarney, Kerry, Ireland

TAIWAN

- Behind the Scenes -

The Globetrotter team have many years of experience travelling the world, and in excess of 100 countries between them, so it’s rare to be faced with a trip to somewhere that none of them have any real knowledge of. With the prospect of a filming trip to Taiwan, however, they were faced with a destination that was a complete mystery.

Of course, everyone had preconceptions, having visited other Asian countries, but, as Trevor Claringbold discovers, Taiwan was a land full of surprises.

The first of these surprises is waiting for us as we land, after a 14-hour flight via Bangkok. We are greeted by our instantly-likeable guide, Lily, who has news that there has been an earthquake in the southeast of the country, so a large part of our trip has been changed. We have had filming trips changed in the past due to hurricanes and transport issues, but this is our first earthquake!

Taiwan is right on the unstable geological feature known as the ‘Ring of Fire’, which circles the Pacific, and as such is quite familiar with such natural occurrences. For our small team, however, it is a note of uncertainty we could do without.

Arriving late in the evening, we leave the capital, Taipei, for later in our trip, and head an hour southeast to the town of Miaoli for a night at the Zhuo Ye Cottage. After a long, tiring journey, the last thing we really want to do is start filming, but we need to capture the moment our presenter, Hayley, arrives and gets her first sight of the amazing rooms. Twenty minutes later, footage captured, and it’s time for a wellearned sleep!

The next morning, my first view of Taiwan in the daylight was nothing short of breathtaking. The giant window in my room, which has a sumptuous roll-top bath in front of it, looks out over the expansive surrounding forests. And the walk to breakfast meanders through picturesque dark wood cabins, lined by a gently trickling stream, and brightly coloured floral displays. As an introduction to a new country, this already had the wow-factor.

Our first few days will be travelling down the west coast towards Tainan, and although this is not the most scenic part of the country, it has more than enough to have us constantly reaching for our cameras.

There are large expanses of wetlands, many of which are stopping off points for migrating birds. Filming with a keen bird watcher gave us some expert insight, although it is always difficult when the guest assumes you all know which bird is which. He will call to us excitedly to say that a particular bird is getting ready to take to the sky, and we are desperately hunting the hundred-metre wide lake, to find that one bird amongst a thousand others!

Seafood is, of course, a big thing in this region, and we were invited to film our presenter hunting for oysters. Sounds straightforward enough, until you realise that she is hunting with her feet, sliding them through the mud in the bottom of special oyster-pools, hoping to find some of the tasty shellfish. That also meant we were standing knee deep in this muddy water to film it. Not the most glamourous part of our job, but the hardest thing as a cameraman is trying not to laugh out loud and ruin the shot when something funny happens… as it often does on our trips!

The area is also home to vast salt pans, with tiny pyramids of salt neatly lined up in each one. They have even built a salt ‘igloo’ which is a great attraction for the casual visitors. Not far away there is a salt museum, with its own salt mountain that you can climb to the top of!

Taiwan is already providing us with all manner of things that we would not have expected, and I haven’t even mentioned the giant illuminated boot in a local park, an alleyway so narrow it is officially called ‘Breast-Touching Passage’, or the complete, immaculate railway station, that is maintained for the Instagram generation – you can go and sit or lay on the tracks, as no trains can get here after a viaduct collapsed! This is a wonderfully bizarre country.

Tainan City is the old capital, and is equally fascinating. Filming in any religious buildings is always a bit nervewracking for us. Making sure we are respectful, careful, and as unobtrusive as possible has to be balanced with making sure we get good footage to show the viewers what is here. I’ve lost count of the amount of times over the years that we’ve been tutted at by locals in a cathedral – even when we have full permission to be there. Here, however, it is totally different.

The lavishly decorated temples fill your senses from the moment you approach them. Bright hanging lanterns, huge murals, heady aromas, and lashings of gold from floor to ceiling give us so much to film, we almost forgot we need some shots of the presenter! And the atmosphere is so welcoming and relaxed. Everybody wanted to greet us, proud to show off their glorious buildings. Members of the public are even pointing out things we should see. The whole experience is totally endearing, and yet another unexpected aspect of this small island.

Elsewhere in Tainan you should visit the imposing Anping fortress, and the Anping Treehouse that has been totally encapsulated by the ever-expanding roots of a Banyan tree, before having a refreshing cup of tea at the Narrow Door Café – as long as you are able squeeze down the alleyway and through the tiny entrance. We were here to see the Taiwan Lantern Festival (see separate panel), before heading inland to the mountains of the interior.

As the road begins to climb, the landscape changes dramatically. Before long we are surrounded by hillsides covered with row after row of neatly manicured tea bushes, stretching for as far as the eye can see. High up on a mountain ridge, we stop to find out more at Sheng Le Farm – an awardwinning tea producer in the heart of the Alishan National Scenic Area, which also does exquisite tea tastings.

We are filming 9-year old Atti, who has recently passed her qualifications to perform a special traditional tea ceremony. Yes, they take their tea very seriously! Being surrounded by a presenter, guide, and a full camera crew doesn’t seem to bother her at all. She remains calm, incredibly precise, and totally unphased as she goes through the intricately timed procedure.

The setting is incredible, with a panoramic backdrop across the tea fields that cover the mountain. At exactly the right moment, Atti gently lifts the small pot and pours the tea, and smoothly hands it to Hayley. In the warm sun, we are willing Hayley to hurry up, to we can finish filming and also try a cup! It is worth the wait, and possibly the most delectable cup of tea I’ve ever tasted.

The Alishan National Scenic Area is managed by the indigenous community, and is known not just for its tea production, but for the magnificent natural beauty. Come in the spring, and there are the vivid pinks of the cherry blossom, contrasting with the dark greens of the tea plants and surrounding forests. It includes the National Forest Recreation Area, where you can visit the ‘Elephant Tree Trunk’ and the ‘Third Generation Tree’, as well as an impressive array of flora and fauna.

The colourful little Forest Railway trundles up the hillside, through the shade of the trees, to one of the viewpoints. Close to the station is an eye-catching raised walkway, that stretches out high above the ground, giving a canopy-level view for those brave enough to walk out on it. The whole area will leave you marvelling at the magical scenic backdrops, whilst you take in the clear air and gorgeous forest aromas. We are staying at the sumptuous Alishan House Hotel, high up in the centre of the region. Its observation deck gives breathtaking views across the mountains, and we were lucky enough to be there in time to capture the most amazing sunset. Alishan National Scenic Area includes Mount Jadethe highest mountain in southeast Asia, so we are also keen to capture a wonderful sunrise.

Bright and early the next morning, while it was still dark, we find ourselves trekking to the nearby summit, with all of our camera gear, keen to get those awe-inspiring shots. We find a place with clear views across the valley, and set up the cameras, including a nice time-lapse. As it begins to get light, the sky is clear in the chilly morning air, and other tourists slowly and almost silently began to find their own viewing spots.

After an hour, and with the sun due to appear at any moment, a small bank of clouds began form in the worst possible place, and fifteen minutes later it was completely

blocking the sunrise. The different lights, and constantly changing colours on the nearby mountains is still awesome, but we all still trundle back down the mountain for breakfast feeling somewhat disheartened.

As well as the scenic delights, it is pleasing to have ample opportunities to interact with the indigenous people, and lean more about their life and traditions. An interesting visitor centre and impeccably manicured gardens give us a reason to visit, but meeting the people, enjoying their music an dancing, and being shown around traditional houses really helps us feel connected to these warm and hospitable communities.

Probably the most memorable moment is when one of the residents explains the tradition that when a family member passes away, they are buried under the floor of the home. He then points to a place on the floor near where we are standing, turns, and walks away!

As we move on, the scenery becomes even more dramatic. After a stop at the gloriously tranquil Sun Moon Lake, with its network of cycling and hiking paths, and overlooked by the stunning 43-metre high Ci-En Pagoda dominating the nearby hillside, the road twists and turns through deep ravines and rocky cliffs of the Taroko National Park.

Pausing to film on a gently swaying rope bridge, high above a broad river gorge, sets us new challenges. Trying to stand mid-bridge, holding a camera steady while Hayley and a guide walk towards us, rocking the bridge with every step is not easy!

Our trip culminates back in the north, in the area around the capital, Taipei. The city itself is loud, busy and colourful, as you would expect a major Asian city to be. A trip to the top of the Taipei 101 tower, once the highest building in the world, is a must – although for safety the observation deck is surrounded by thick glass, so photographing or filming through it is not ideal. Make sure you also experience one of the packed night markets, which are wonderfully atmospheric, and offer a bizarre array of goods and a vast selection of food.

Taiwan is also known for gold, and the New Taipei City Gold

Museum will offer you the chance to pan for your own gold, wander through a genuine gold mine, and even take a huge gold ingot home… if you can lift it through the arm hole in its glass case! Trust me, we’ve tried!

Our final stop is one that we’ve all been looking forward to throughout our tour of Taiwan. The pretty town of Pingxi is known across Asia for one thing – lanterns. People come here from far and wide to make and launch these illuminated lanterns, some for spiritual reasons, some to make a wish or celebrate something, or, like us, just to marvel at this magical spectacle. There are busy shops selling the lanterns, or even allowing you to make your own. Outside, people set them off from the railway track that runs right through the main street – even though this is officially banned.

Every so often, the distant horn of and approaching train will sound, getting louder as it nears the street. The crowds part and the train eases slowly through, so close that you can touch it. The moment it passes, the tracks are once again hidden by crowds of people.

We were fortunate to witness a large group who had come here to set off more than 100 lanterns in one go. It was a beautiful, spectacular, almost emotional sight, and the perfect way to mark the end of our trip full of surprises.

TAIWAN LANTERN FESTIVAL

If you only come to Taiwan for one reason, make it the Taiwan Lantern Festival. This huge, lavish annual event moves to different locations around the country each spring, and attract not just tens of thousands of visitors, but also the President and heads of government.

Groups from across Taiwan build all manner of brightly illuminated structures, which will leave you spellbound. Walk through tunnels of lights, marvel at towering copies of Taiwanese landmarks, and gaze in awe at the many animated displays that combine light with elements such as fountains and waterfalls.

In the centre is a mammoth stage, with music and dancing shows, marching bands, acrobatic displays, and a crazy performance with large fire sticks! This is an even that will stay in your memory forever, and give you enough Instagram photos to last a lifetime. Find out about the next event at:

https://eng.taiwan.net.tw/#sectionLantern

TAIWAN TOURISM BOARD https://eng.taiwan.net.tw/

ALISHAN NATIONAL SCENIC AREA www.ali-nsa.net

ANPING TREE HOUSE www.twtainan.net/en/attractions/detail/4486

NEW TAIPEI GOLD MUSEUM https://www.gep-en.ntpc.gov.tw/

TAROKO NATIONAL PARK www.taroko.gov.tw

ALISHAN HOUSE HOTEL www.alishanhouse.com.tw

Dordogne through the lens

Stretching from the Loire Valley in the north, to the foothills of the Pyrenees in the south, the Dordogne is one of the most popular French regions for British visitors.

The lush green valleys and honey-coloured stone houses are perhaps what we expect an idyllic rural landscape to look like, and with a peppering of quaint hilltop villages and colourful floral adornments, it really is the quintessential picturesque retreat.

Gorgeous little pavement cafes serve the region’s famous paté de foie gras, walnuts and truffles, washed down with local wines or Cognac.

And as you head deeper into the heart of the region, amid steep limestone gorges topped with medieval castles, the sense of tranquillity is only broken by the sound of birdsong and the rippling of the water.

And if proof were needed that the Dordogne has endured the test of time, just head one of the area’s cave systems and you will see amazing wall paintings that show this area has attracted people since prehistoric times.

The picturesque town of Sarlat can trace its roots back to the 9th century, and the founding of a Benedictine abbey. Today, the Sainte-Marie Church hosts an indoor food market, and has a glass elevator in the bell tower which offers panoramic city views.

The medieval and renaissance yellow sandstone buildings are a photographer’s dream, and best seen in the morning sunshine.

ABOVE: Market days in Sarlat are Saturday and Wednesday, with a wide range of stalls selling local delicacies like foie gras and cheese.

LEFT AND ABOVE: Don’t miss the impressive Hotel St Clar, with its wonderful turret tower, and the last remaining part of the ramparts. The Rue de la Republique and the Rue des Consuls are also worth exploring for their stately mansions.

ABOVE: Perched on a hilltop, 150 metres above the Dordogne Valley, the idyllic medieval fortified village of Domme was built to see enemies approaching, and to have the high ground in case of attack.

ABOVE: Constructed in 1281 at the behest of the French King Philip III, Domme served as a key strategic defence in the Hundred Years War between England and France. It was eventually captured by the English in 1346.

ABOVE: Domme is listed as one of the prettiest villages in France. As well as its picturesque streets and gardens, you can also visit the Grotte de Domme; a 450 metres long cave deep under the centre of town, filled with stalactites and stalagmites.

The village is a slightly bizarre mix of beautiful and sombre sights. Wander through colourful rose gardens, before witnessing the prison graffiti etched into stone walls by The Knights of the Templars who were imprisoned and sentenced to death here in the early 14th century.

ABOVE:

Rising in the Massif du Sancy, in Auvergne, the Dordogne crosses almost 500km of south west France on it’s way to join the Garonne, and eventually the Atlantic.

In 2012, the Dordogne river basin was recognized by UNESCO for its outstanding setting and natural heritage, and was added to the World Network of Biosphere Reserves.

Along its length it is overlooked by stunning villages, chateaus and castles.

Thirty kilometres north of Sarlat, close to Montignac, are the world-famous Lascaux Caves. They are renowned for their spectacular stalagmites and stalactites, and the world’s most famous prehistoric cave paintings.

There are many mysteries in the caves, and a lot of signs and symbols in the caves which we do not know the meaning of. The paintings are almost all of animals - in fact there are more than 100 animals, but only one man. There are no paintings of flowers, trees or countryside.

They date to about 17,000 years ago, when the predominant food was reindeer, but whilst there are various deer on the walls there are no reindeer amongst them.

Its breathtaking cliff-side setting has made Rocamadour one of France’s most important tourist destinations, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

TOP LEFT:

The sacred city of Rocamadour is said to be a place where miracles happen. It is both a place of legend and history, where old stone houses, majestic towers and a castle keep cascade down the cliff into the Alzou Canyon.

TOP RIGHT:

The main street is entirely car-free, and the 216 steps that make up the Great Staircase separate the lower town from the complex of religious structures that are set halfway up the cliff.

BOTTOM LEFT:

The Sanctuary, made of 8 chapels, is built around a central courtyard. It is known as the Cité Réligieuse complex, and is accessed via the Grand Escalier staircase. It includes the Chapelle Notre-Dame, with its Black Madonna statue, and the Romanesque-Gothic Basilica of St-Sauveur.

BOTTOM RIGHT:

Rocamadour has been a crucial pilgrimage site on the ‘Way of Saint James’ for hundreds of years. The sacred city boasts 4 beautiful arched stone gates: Porte Basse, Porte du Figuier, Porte Salmon and Porte Hugon.

LV ETAnca Precub puts the latest gadgets, gizmo’s, and travel tech to the test!

IS THE FUJI X-T50 THE MOST PERFECT TRAVEL CAMERA TO DATE?

I THINK SO. AND A RECENT TRIP TO THE MOUNTAINS OF ROMANIA PROVIDED THE PERFECT OPPORTUNITY TO PUT IT TO THE TEST.

Apart from finding the perfect accommodation, transport, activities to do on holiday and delicious meals, one other important aspect is to have the right camera that will help you capture your adventures.

with a new one which is the Real Ace that offers a slightly reduced saturation which is ideal for everyday shooting.

T E C H

I thought I would try out the newest Fujifilm camera and lens combo : The Fuji X-T50 paired with the 16-50mm lens. This camera promises a blend of advanced features, portability, and stunning image quality, making it an ideal companion for travellers.

The Fuji X-T50 is a testament to sleek design and robust construction. Weighing in at just under 500g, it’s lightweight and compact, perfect for slipping into a backpack or even a large pocket. Despite its small size, the camera feels solid and well-built, with a textured grip that provides a secure hold, that made me feel confident when taking pictures from top of the cliffs or even from a moving car.

The camera keeps the retro-inspired aesthetic that can be found in other similar models, using dials that can be used to change your shutter speed, exposure compensation and aperture ring on the lens, as well as a new addition: a film simulation dial that contains 20 options to select from. This model comes

Equipped with a 24.2 MP APS-C sensor, the X-T50 delivers stunning image quality that rivals much larger and more expensive cameras. The dynamic range is commendable, capturing both highlights and shadows with impressive detail. Fuji’s renowned colour science ensures that images straight out of the camera are vibrant and true to life.

Most of the images I took on this trip haven’t been edited at all, except maybe a crop here and there. the quality of the images straight out of the camera is something that Fuji is well known for, so that was no surprise.

The camera also features a tillable and touch screen that makes using the camera in certain situations a lot easier, but without eliminating the viewfinder that could help in those sunny conditions.

Battery life is solid, allowing for a full day of shooting on a single charge, which is essential for travellers who may not have constant access to power. Additionally, the camera’s built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth make it easy to transfer images to a smartphone or tablet for quick sharing on social media.

I found myself using just one battery per excursion, and I still had some left when arrived home which was perfect as it allowed me to quickly transfer the files onto my phone.

I was also impressed that when using the camera from the car or in a cable-car, the in-built body stabilisation was working a charm. All of the images were in focus, and if

you didn’t know it was taken from a moving vehicle you wouldn’t have guessed.

if you need to shoot some videos, don’t be afraid, as the camera packs internal video recording up to 6k- 30fps. as well as F-Log options, and a variety of video making tools that are a videographer’s dream. The focus tracking is one of the nicest ones I ever used, and it detects people and faces that are even quite far away.

The new 16-50mm lens is a perfect companion for this model as it’s a compact lens that doesn’t lack quality, with an aperture of F2.8-4.8, and weather resistance added. The focus is quite seamless, so you don’t have to worry if you are planning to use it for video purposes, and the zoom is internal, so it keeps the small factor that matches the X-T50 perfectly.

Up in the mountains I even set the camera on a tripod and took some self-portraits using the Fujifilm app on my phone, and the whole experience was quite straightforward.

I must say, even though I do have a range of digital cameras that I own, this little Fuji has really impressed me. Quality, ergonomics and versatility all in a small portable body that won’t break my back on holiday. I think this is the camera every traveller should have with them on holiday.

MEET THE TEAM! Spotlight on…

Liu Batcherlor

Liu has been part of the Globetrotter team since 2018, fronting shows such as Summer in the Black Forest, and series 2 of Its More Fun in the Philippines. She is also a keen environmentalist, and recently visited Tunisia to see some travel related projects there - as you can see from her article in this issue. We found a quiet moment to ask her more about her love of travel.

When did you first discover a passion for travel?

Despite family holidays growing up, my first ‘proper’ travelling experience was going to Brazil on my gap year. I stayed with a friend’s family in Rio as a base - which gave me a good ‘grounding’ and chance to learn the culture and customs, to then be able to travel north and south on ‘micro’ trips one my own; giving me that sense of freedom and independence, but knowing I could go back to Rio at any point if needed.

What are the good and bad points of travel presenting, against travelling for fun?

Although on camera it may look all glamourous, presenting trips often involve a very packed schedule - so we often don’t get a chance to fully savour a location, or have a ‘beach day’. However, the flip side to this is that we get to see so much amazing stuff in a short time - so I wouldn’t change it!

Are there particular people that stick in your mind from your travels?

For me the best bit of any trip is meeting amazingly passionate local people, who just want you to love their destination as much as they do. And to be honest, there are

so many of them, it’s hard to pick just one person.

But this fact just shows how much there is to learn and inspire if you take the time to meet the locals and immerse yourself in their lives, for even a short while.

What is the scariest moment whilst travelling?

As a small child, I was travelling to Italy with my mum for a ski holiday. We had to transfer via the city underground, and it was a really busy commuter day. The train pulls in, we wait for loads of people to get off, my mum then says to me ‘on you get Liu’ as she reaches to put the luggage on ...but as she does, the doors close around the bags!! She pulls them out, expecting the doors to reopen ...but they don’t ...and the train begins to pull out of the station!

With just my now tear soaked giant elephant teddy, and handful of Italians trying to comfort me with broken English - I’m on my way to who knows where, as my mum runs down the station shouting, ‘my bambino, my bambino’!!

Skip forward 10mins as we pull into the next station, and I’m greeted by two huge Italian police men, with guns. A further 15mins later my mum arrives to the station to pick me up... only to find me and a load of burly policemen drawing ponies and rainbows and playing teddy catch!!!

We then had to rush off...to catch another train!! Hahaha!

What country is top of your bucket list, and why?

Mongolia. I’d love to experience first-hand the colours and textures of the remote wilderness, and experiencing somewhere so different from our typical travels.

How do you plan your outfits when you go on a filming trip?

I can’t claim to be any sort of fashionista - so for me the priority when packing is always to ensure I’ve got the correct items to be able to fully embrace whatever activity we’re doing; be that wetsuit, hiking boots or culturally respectful items.

If you could do a ‘double headed’ travel show with any celebrity, who would it be?

Probably Bruce Parry - who did the series ‘Tribe’. He doesn’t shy away from fully immersing himself in a culture and their activities, and I loved how in the series he really got under the skin of why and how remote communities live the way they do.

What do you do with all the down time on your trips?

Haha...what down time?! It seldom happens. But when we do have an afternoon or some time off, you’ll normally find me in the sea or the swimming pool. I love being in the water.

What is the one activity that you have never tried, that you would love to film on a trip?

Swim with humpback whales in the wild...or similar large animals ...or maybe great white sharks??!! Or any kind of bizarre Bruce Perry-esk cultural activity or ritual that I’ve never heard of!

What is the first thing you do when you get home from a filming trip?

Put on the kettle for a good cup of English breakfast tea! And water my plants!

You can see Summer in the Black Forest and It’s More Fun in the Philippines on the Globetrotter TV website at www.globetrottertv.com

Luxury Hideaways on the Dalmatian Coast

When I’m trying to choose a summer destination with crystal clear water, delicious food, luxurious accommodation and a lot of relaxing downtime, I must admit, Croatia has not really been on my radar, says Anca Precub.

However, that was quickly going to change as I headed to two of its’ unique islands…

LOŠINJ - ISLAND OF VITALITY

After arriving at Zadar Airport, I didn’t expect to then be boarding another plane. However, it apparently that is the quickest, and probably the most lavish way of getting to the accommodation. This time, the plane is significantly smaller, and the pilot was also doubling up as a steward, which surprised all of us (he even had a secret drawer full of snacks and drinks!).

In order to get to the island of Losinj, you have the option to either use a more conventional mode of transport such as a boat, or if you are staying at the Boutique Hotel Alhambra, (or one of their villas), you can opt in for a quick 15 minute private jet transfer.

I understand that this might not be the most sustainable way of travelling, but I believe it is something that needs to be done at least once in a lifetime, especially if you want to feel like a celebrity!

The flight, although short, does allow you to view many of the Croatian islands from a unique perspective, and, if you’re lucky enough to fly on a sunny day, it is truly a feast for your eyes.

The island of Losinj is the 11th largest island in the Adriatic sea by area, and one of the longest (at 33km), but with a width that varies from around 0.25 to 4.75km.

The Hotel Boutique Alhamba is situated in Cikat Bay, in Mali Losinj - which translates to “small village”. It was going to be my home for the next few days, and what a home it was! Surrounded by nature; with glorious pine trees on one end, and amazing views of the Cikat Bay on the other, it is a location that will take your breath away.

The hotel is comprised of 2 villas that have been restored into grand accommodation, whilst still retaining much of their original charm. Villa Alhambra, where I am staying, dates back to 1912, and is decorated with a retro-classical style in mind, whilst the Villa Augusta, which is next door, is brimming with an art nouveau style that lacks no opulence.

My room had a beautiful view across the bay which, if you didn’t know where you were, could have you convinced that you had landed in some far-flung exotic paradise. The turquoise colour of the water and the Mediterranean vegetation will instantly ease you into holiday bliss.

The accommodation also features the Alfred Keller restaurant that, amongst the many awards it has received over the years, has been awarded one Michelin star and 16.5 Gault & Millau points. Every dish is carefully crafted using local produce, whilst still maintaining a sustainable, everchanging menu using the freshest of seasonal ingredients. Of course, a perfect dining experience is not complete without a perfect wine pairing, and at Alfred Keller you can certainly take advantage of that. The wines are meticulously selected to complement each dish, and they combine a mix of Croatian, Balkan and even French vintages that respect the winemaking history, and combine old and new technologies to result in the perfect taste.

Chef Michael Gollenz says he cares about traditional food, but is nonetheless always trying to introduce innovation into his cooking. The dishes he served us were both delicious and incredibly presented. (And if you visit, make sure to try the Adriatic fish fillet panroasted fennel kulen!).

If, at first glance, you think there’s not much to do in Mali Losinj, you couldn’t be further from the truth. When the village was established, it quickly became the largest and most developed marina in the Adriatic Sea, but nowadays this island attracts people under the “island of vitality” motto.

Whilst staying at Alahambra, you will be spoiled for choice by the various holistic treatments, and a long list of activities undoubtedly enhance your holiday. Forest therapy in the pine forests that surround the property, tea ceremonies with local herbs from the island, relaxing massages inspired by the Vienna Philharmonic no less, various skincare treatments and many more body and spa treatments are just a few.

If you were to pick only one, I would definitely suggest the inhalation bar (Kurhaus), that is located in the spa area of the hotel, and is available for all guests. This is a practice that started in 1892 when aristocrats were visiting Losinj in search of healing treatments. It consists of breathing in fine mists of sea water and medicinal aerosols, which in return is designed to help with breathing and general well-being.

Whilst the Hotel Boutique Alhambra features an indoor pool and spa area, you also have the option of an outdoor area with sun loungers that are located right at the front of the accommodation. If you’d rather have a swim in an outdoor pool, you can head to the nearby accommodation that is part of the same chain, the Hotel Bellevue.

Bellevue has a more modern, minimalistic look, and besides the outdoor pool it also features an award-winning spa area and an indoor heated pool. Some of the suites even feature a terrace with a hot tub, and there is a beach area directly onto the bay.

The spa is spread over 2500 square meters, and amongst the facilities you can benefit from various massages, hydro facilities, steam room, sauna, plunge pool, cry sauna and you can even opt for a full check-up with reputable doctors and nutritionists.

After all the swimming and walking, you also have a few options in terms of food. Take your pick from a pool, lounge and beach bar for those wanting a more casual meal or snack, to a newly opened Italian restaurant that features classical Italian recipes which are elevated with contemporary cuisine, and even a award winning Michelin-recommended Japanese restaurant.

This time, I opted for some Japanese cuisine at Matsunoki, where executive Chef Orhan Cakiroglu made me fall in love with his dishes. The presentation was on point, the taste was something out of this world, and every single dish was designed with fresh ingredients combining traditional and contemporary styles; introducing Mediterranean ingredients that are sourced locally . As we enjoyed the food so much, my travel companions and I even indulged in a sushi making session, where we learned from the best how to create the

Losinj doesn’t lack in holiday activities, from bike riding trails, swimming, various hiking trails, and some diverse tourist attractions. And if you want to make good use of the perfect blue waters, there are various water sports and boat tours that can be arranged straight from your accommodation.

For me, a trip into the main part of the city of Mali Losinj gave me the opportunity of an afternoon of exploring.

The city features a long natural harbour, surrounded by green hills, sprinkled with town houses. The main promenade is lined with impressive 19th century sea-captain houses, and there’s a variety of local restaurants and souvenir shops, including a shop that features local produce.

After a wander around the windy streets, and enjoying an icecream in the sun, I headed to the Museum of Apoxyomenos, which is quite unique and focused on one single exhibita bronze statue of Apoxyomenos that was discovered in 1997. The statue dates to either 2nd or 1st centuries B.C. and features an athlete cleaning his body from oil, sweat and sand after exercise or competition.

The museum walks you through the discovery, and the entire process of recovering the large statue from the sea. It allows the visitors to immerse themselves into a variety of rooms meant to stimulate all the senses. My favourite, apart from the one in which the statue is displayed, is where you can watch a documentary about how the statue survived so many years under the water with so little damage, where everything is carpeted to give a sense of how the statue was protected by marine organisms such as shell creatures, grass and fossils. Definitely a unique museum in my book!

Even though it was a short stay, Mali Losinj has a special charm that will definitely stay with me for many more years to come. The fresh air and hospitality of my hosts, plus the amazing food and scenery makes this the perfect destination for anyone that is after a relaxing holiday, away from loud environments, full of luxuries and wonderful sunshine. Losinj you are truly an island full of vitality.

ISLAND HIDEAWAY - DUGI OTOK

Less than 1,5 hours from Zadar is probably one of the best kept secrets of Croatia’s Dalmatian coast; a secret that I was going to fall in love with as soon as I stepped foot on the small harbour village of Zaglav.

Dugi Otok is the largest island in this part of Dalmatia, and unsurprisingly its name translates to “Long Island” as it’s 45km long. It’s well known for its orchards, vineyards and beaches, but with only 1500 residents is the perfect destination for those wanting a more relaxed holiday away from the usual tourism trail.

Even in the summer months, the island is a perfect oasis of peace and quiet, but with plenty of activities for those who are a bit restless.

My home for the next few days was the Vila NAI 3.3. This impressive building is nestled in a 500-year-old olive grove that is not only designed to hide you from the outside world, but which also produces award winning oil that has won a multitude of global awards.

Apart from the beautiful surroundings, the unique hotel was designed by Nikola Basic, one of the most sought-after avant-garde architects. From far away you can barely tell there’s a luxurious abode hidden under the yellow stones and vegetation, but the infinity pool and generous terraces give it away.

The hotel has only 8 rooms, spread out in a semicircle which allows each guest a high level of privacy. Every room has a private path that leads straight to the saltwater infinity pool, from where there are incredible views across the Adriatic Sea to the small neighbouring islands.

The hotel has only 8 rooms, spread out in a semicircle which allows each guest a high level of privacy. Every room has a private path that leads straight to the saltwater infinity pool, from where there are incredible views across the Adriatic Sea to the small neighbouring islands.

The hotel also features a small outdoor gym and a spa area, which has a smaller, saltwater pool that is illuminated by the skylight, and is the perfect place to relax. Adjacent to the jacuzzi, there’s a Finnish sauna and a private massage room where guests can enjoy various treatments – many of which feature olive oil from the estate. For those who prefer a more active holiday, there is also a private tennis court on site.

From the moment you step inside the accommodation, the hosts make you feel totally at home, and greet you with a delicious olive tea that I will be dreaming of for a long time to come. The owners, Goran and Nives Morović, made my travel companions and I feel as if we were visiting old friends, and the enthusiastically showed us around. Mr Goran was particularly keen to highlight his trophy room, with all the prizes his olive oil has won. Hearing his tales about what makes his olive oil so special, was fascinating.

In building this resort, the existing nature and landscape was always the most important consideration, and that’s showcased throughout the different elements of this accommodation. Natural products are combined with luxurious furnishings, all with an eco-friendly footprint in mind.

The rooms are elegantly furnished with a soft spot for Italian design, timeless furniture, marble bathrooms and the highest quality linen and toiletries. My room even featured a 4-poster bed and an electric fireplace, with plenty of room for storage, a desk area and a mini-bar.

Lounging by the pool would make you feel like you’re in a movie, and I wouldn’t have been surprised to see James Bond coming out of the water! The no-kids policy means that you can always rely on having a quiet relaxing afternoon, where the only sounds you’ll hear are from birds, the wind, or the chef asking what would you like to eat later in the day.

Talking about food, I must mention that there are two restaurants on site. One is situated inside the hotel, just off the reception area, and the other one outside surrounded by the islands signature yellowish rock. The latter is complete with two barbecue areas, where you can watch your food being prepared, using olive groves instead of charcoal to improve the taste of the meat.

The kitchen focuses on seasonal and fresh ingredients that are grown organically in the villa’s gardens. Fish arrives from the fishermen in the nearby village, and the chef said his food is designed to be delicious because he does not “cook a photograph” - instead his focus is on taste and freshness.

The menu is small, and the guests have no limitation in terms of the time they would like to have breakfast for example, as the comfort of their quests come first. The aim is that the restaurant will run in the future on a no-menu basis, where guests can chat with the chef when they arrive and pick what they would like to eat.

Another highlight, and one of my favourite things, was that the bread was freshly cooked on site before every meal, and it tasted absolutely delicious. Try it with the fresh olive oil that is always no older than 3 days.

If you ever get restless at the accommodation, even though I can’t imagine that happening, there are plenty of activities to do on the island. This is the home of the Telašćica Nature Park; one of the most populated groups of islands in the Mediterranean, with over 140 islands in a 300km2 area. You can visit some of them with a private yacht that allows you to enjoy a relaxed picnic, with more exquisite food provided

The island we chose to visit was also host to an old movie set that has been left behind, which made the landscape look even more interesting and authentic.

You can also opt for scuba diving or snorkelling, bike riding, fishing, olive harvesting, and even hunting in one of the three hunting grounds. If you love exploring, though, I would suggest a visit to the tallest lighthouse on the Adriatic, in Veli Rat. It was built in 1849, and is 42 meters high. Even though the size of it might be putting you off, climbing to the top is well worth the sweat, as the panoramic views from the top are incredible.

If you’re after more breathtaking views, make sure you also take in the newly opened visitors and educational centre in Sali, where watching the sunset is a whole new experience

from their newly build structure, and its 360 degrees views across the sea.

After all that exploring, you can end the night with either a relaxing massage, or by just enjoying an indulgent cocktail by the pool. And even the cocktails are carefully designed to each guests individual preferences.

A stay here is what everyone needs for the ultimate relaxing holiday. Delicious food designed to suit everyone’s personal tastes, a comfortable and luxurious accommodation and hosts that will make you feel so comfortable you’ll forget you are amongst strangers.

This magical island will have your heart, and for sure you will want to return. I know I do.

SMART PACK

It never fails to surprise us how often we see people on our travels who have spent a fortune on a quality camera and all the equipment, and then carry it around in a completely unsuitable bag that offers it no protection at all. However, if you want to rectify that, and choose a pack that not only is a perfect companion to your precision equipment, but is also stylish and well thought out, then the new Gomatic Luma range is certainly worth investigating.

The Luma is available in a choice of size and colour options, and has been produced in collaboration with well known photographer, Peter McKinnon. We’ve opted for the 18L one, which has a wonderfully slim profile, without sacrificing any storage capacity, and will be acceptable as carry-on luggage

for most airlines. It also weighs just 2.6 lbs.

From the outside, the design is sleek and made from good quality materials. There is a pocket for a drinks bottle, with magnetic selfclosing edges to keep it neatly closed when not being used. A neat little hideaway tripod boot can easily be deployed to carry one externally using the elasticated straps. And there are three different access points for the main compartment, with top and side zipped flaps, as well as another strong zip to open it fully.

The inside offers a number of adaptable dividers, so that you can create the perfect layout to suit your equipment. There is ample room for a sizeable DSLR, a number of lenses, and even an extra mirrorless camera as well. An additional section can

also be used for extra equipment, or perhaps for rain gear and those all important snacks.

There are also three smaller zipped internal pockets for small items, as well as a convenient pocket on the top of the exterior, which is ideal for storing spare batteries, memory cards, and small items that you might need to access quickly. And if you are taking your laptop, a dedicated pocket will hold devices up to 16-inches.

With adjustable straps and a padded, aerated back, this is also a very comfortable bit of kit – even when fully loaded. Overall, this is an impressive and very well designed backpack, and you can tell that a professional photographer has had a significant input into it’s creation. And it’s sure to get the right reaction from those around you the next time you go to reach for your camera!

Safety is never something to be taken lightly when it comes to children, and nowhere is this more crucial than around water. So making sure you have equipment that you can rely on is paramount.

This bright yellow, split-front example from Animal is a great choice. It features a nylon front zip, secure reflective patches to assist with being seen in the dark, and is easily adjusted to ensure that it fits perfectly for optimum safety.

There is an additional strap that connects between the legs so that it

Split-Front Kids Lifejacket by Animal

cannot slide off or raise up over the head. It is available in a choice of sizes to suit children from 3Kg upwards.

Perhaps the most pleasing thing is that it is both comfortable and stylish, meaning that children are more likely to be happy when wearing it! All round and excellent and trustworthy bit of kit that provides essential safety without having to compromise on comfort and ease of use.

Find more info here: www.animal.co.uk

Of course, we all hope that when we are out and about that we are not going to need something to keep the rain off, but similarly we all know that the chances are we will! This lightweight coat comes with its own drawstring carry case, and rolls into a very small, portable unit though, so it is ideal to keep it with you ‘just in case’.

Don’t let its simple appearance fool you, however, as the Pakka II has plenty of enviable features. Fully taped seams help make it fully waterproof in all but the heaviest rain – and even then, when we tested it there were no leakages. The foldaway hood is fully adjustable for the perfect fit, and there are two convenient zipped pockets on the outside.

On the inside are two more very useful large open pockets, which would be ideal for hiding away you map or suchlike, if you are caught in a sudden rain shower. They are even big enough to hold a water bottle, albeit not very comfortably.

We really like this item, and it is available in nine different colours, and a good range of sizes. There are also children’s and men’s versions, so you can have matching jackets for your whole family.

Find more info here: www.mountainwarehouse.com

Pakka II Womens Waterproof Jacket by Mountain Warehouse

A simple, inexpensive device, but one which can be very handy in a variety of travel scenarios, as well as when you get home.

Charged via a USB to type-C cable (included), the item sits around your neck, and has two LED torches – one in the end of each of the flexible arms. There are controls on each side - one is a simple on/off button, but which can be held down for a gradual dimming, and on the other is a button that cycles between bright, medium, or a soft amber light.

It is lightweight and comfortable to wear, enhanced by a padded, slip resistant cushion that rests on the back of your neck. It has a charging indicator,

Gritin LED Neck Reading Light

and a full battery seems to last for more than two hours of constant use on the brightest setting.

I have sat on long overnight flights more than once, and been asked to turn off the overhead lights as other passengers are trying to read. I have also stayed in

hotel rooms quite recently with trendy but very low atmospheric lighting. Having this handy bit of kit with me on both of these occasions would have been very useful!

Available from popular online market places and some airport shops.

There are, of course, a multitude of backpacks on the market, of all shapes and sizes, and all types of quality. If you are planning to use one for a purpose where you really need to rely upon it, however, then you need to take time and consider a number of factors.

Size – Is it big enough to take all that you need, plus have a bit of capacity for those bits you’d forgotten you need?

Flexibility – Does it allow you not only to store the bulk of your luggage, but also have easy access and additional pockets for the things you might need to get to more regularly, during a day’s hike, for example?

Comfort – Is it not just comfortable to wear, but also adjustable to suit your clothing or the load you are carrying?

Durability – Is it suitable for all weather conditions, and strong enough to withstand the job you want it to do?

Once you have assessed all of those, you are left with a far more limited choice. One that we particularly noticed recently is the Inca Extreme range from Mountain Warehouse. We put the 65-litre rucksack to the test, and found it to be excellent value for its mid-range price.

First impressions were that it was really well made, with a mass of useful features, and actually looks pretty stylish. The fabric has an anti-tear quality that from experience can be especially useful if you are trekking somewhere with brambles or sharp rocks along the route. It also boasts a full rain cover, which is conveniently stored in a hidden zipped pocket in the base.

There are a number of main access points, and plenty of additional pockets, as well as a number of bungee cords to attach items such as water bottles, torches, or walking poles.

It is a comfortable pack to wear, and this is aided by the fully adjustable straps, and a back that can be customised to suit your height and stature. There is also an air-flow system on the back, to help keep air moving between the pack and your back – thus helping maintain a cool, dry back. The waistband also has small zip-up pockets that will hold items such as a phone or keys, and keep the pockets in sight for added security.

Overall, a very comfortable, practical and well thought out rucksack, and available from:

www.mountainwarehouse.com

Inca Extreme 65L Rucksack by Mountain Warehouse

DESTINATION ZERO WASTE - TUNISIA -

One of the wonderful things about travelling is, of course, getting to experience new cultures, meet interesting people, and discover unexpected hidden gems.

But how can we be more conscious and impactful with where and how our travels benefit a country? And how can we do this whilst still maximising our visitor experience and opportunity to be fully immersed and inspired by everything a culture and community has to offer?

Liu Batchelor travelled to North Africa to find out.

At times it can feel hard to step off the typical tourism trail and find the ‘real’ people and life of a destination. Instead, we often find ourselves surrounded by other travellersall on the same excursions, to the same locations - while local communities, economies and environments struggle without the benefits our tourist dollar could bring.

With this in mind, I recently visited a great new environmental and social initiative called Destination Zero Waste Tunisia, to get a glimpse into what the future of more sustainable

travel excursions could look like. We visited Indinya Aromes, a grassroots social enterprise founded and run by product designer Simone Signoretta - who was supported by the programme.

As we arrived at the unassuming venue, far from the usual tourist track - we were welcomed by a super friendly young team, who served and then joined us for a delicious homemade lunch of local cuisine; a vibrant array of greens, reds and oranges, with fresh peppers, pulses, tomatoes and couscous. They shared openly their passionate stories of how the young business had provided them with work opportunities when they were struggling, and their keenness to make a difference, both environmentally and socially through the project. We also chatted candidly about culture and life within their community, and the obstacles and aspirations they faced.

As we ate, it was impossible not to notice the unique blue and green crockery and tableware - all of which was hand made from upcycled waste litter. These items were just a small selection of the products they sold in their local co-operative shop, along with fellow circular economy social enterprises. It was also a hint towards what our afternoon activity entailed!

With much patience, support and instruction, and plenty of laughs, by the end of the day I have my own glassware (albeit slightly wobbly by comparison!!). I also have a beautiful, unique pair of upcycled glass earrings, which I proudly wore for the rest of the trip. More importantly, I’d also fostered new friendships, experiences, insights, and lasting memories.

This Destination Zero Waste Tunisia programme - of which Indinya Aromes are involved, is spearheaded by the TUI Care Foundation; an independent organisation, but who work closely with holiday giant, TUI, to make these sorts of excursions and opportunities available to the wider tourist market. One of the current challenges with launching sustainable tourism solutions we vitally need, is implementing grassroots solutions with scale and exposure. This is where I find TUI Care Foundation’s approach interesting; supporting and connecting the startup projects - not just with tourists but also with each other in other counties and regions, in order to be able to share vital knowledge and best practice.

Back at the hotel later that evening, the social entrepreneurial spirit continued. We stayed at the beautifully restored Dar Ben Gacem boutique hotel, which had also received support from the TUI Care Foundation during COVID.

You’d be forgiven for mistaking this hotel for a museum. The walls and corners are adorned with traditional ceramics in every possible size and colour, intricate mosaics and carved white ceiling detail partner with intriguing artefacts. We had dinner with the owner; Leila Ben Gacem - a totally inspiring social entrepreneur with a big vision to use business as a force for good within her community.

The many ways she is putting this into action include providing both training and educational funding and support for school dropouts, working with local artisans to preserve cultural works, and founding a local business social co-operative (a first for Tunisia, where this type of business entity is not currently recognised) …as well as many more ideas in the pipeline! This is one amazing lady on a mission!!

The next day, we met some young women who I’m sure will be following in Leila’s footsteps. We joined the graduation ceremony for the TUI Futureshapers mentoring programme; designed to empower young women to turn social challenges into entrepreneurial opportunities. As we arrived, I was expecting to see a group of maybe 20 women … so imagine my surprise as we stepped into a huge lecture theatre to be greeted by an applause from rows and rows of around 200+ young ladies!!

After their graduation, the programme - supported by Mentor Arabia, the University of Monastir and TUI Care Foundation - culminates in a competition for funding and professional mentoring with TUI senior leaders. This supports the young women in kick starting their social businesses. My favourite business idea involved recovering fast-fashion textile cutting waste and turning it into low impact products for the construction industry - all whilst also providing valuable local jobs. A circular economy solution providing a triage of benefits!

What struck me about this trip was that, although waste is of course the core focus and a big problem with significant environmental impact - in this context it was being seen and utilised as an opportunity. It’s very hard to encourage communities to address (and governments to fund) environmental initiatives when there are still so many social and economic challenges facing them. But this programme flips the narrative; using environmental action as a catalyst to empower social and economic impact.

What I also found encouraging about the sustainable initiative we witnessed was that they don’t need to be, and often aren’t, technologically groundbreaking or original. What they are is innovative in their simplicity, accessibility and multidimensional impact. This makes solutions and

knowledge more easily transferable and adoptable to other regions with similar challenges.

Of course, the first challenge for many communities is awareness, knowledge and funding - but this is where I see the role of organisations such as the TUI Care Foundation being vital. They are the shepherds for the blueprint solutions; enabling new local initiatives to be implemented and to evolve more quickly, effectively and efficiently, within a structured framework that plays to the strengths and finds the balance between both grassroots solutions and mass tourism.

It’s inspiring to see how the TUI Care Foundation have already been making headway in their mission - with 5 Destination Zero Waste projects already in action in Cyprus, Curacao, Jamaica, Zanzibar (and Tunisia). They also lead more than 50 other projects in over 25 countries around the world, addressing environmental challenges including wildlife and marine conservation, deforestation and tree planting, farming and foot security, cultural preservation, and education. All of this is funded by voluntary £1 donations from TUI customers on holiday purchased - and its impressive to see they already have a 50% uptake rate from UK customers.

So clearly tourists are caring more and more about supporting sustainable action. The challenge for many is just knowing how to support - while also providing the opportunity for them to feel connected with the impact and communities for whom this support impacts. This is where I think experiences like Destination Zero Waste Tunisia have an important role to play.

And if, in doing so, we can provide richer, more fulfilling cultural experiences and connections - where tourists can meet and be inspired by local people like Simone and Leilathen it can only be a win-win for both people and the planet.

UsefUl InformatIon

IF YOU’D LIKE TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT INDINYA AROMES, ATTEND A WORKSHOP EXPERIENCE, OR PURCHASE SOME OF THE CIRCLE ECONOMY PRODUCTS, YOU CAN DO SO VIA THE LINKS BELOW www.indinya.com/ www.indinya.com/book-online www.instagram.com/indinya_aromes

INFORMATION AND BOOKING FOR THE DAR BEN GACEM BOUTIQUE HOTEL, IS AVAILABLE VIA: www.darbengacem.com www.instagram.com/darbengacem

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT TUI CARE FOUNDATION AND THE PROJECTS THEY SUPPORT, YOU CAN CHECK OUT THEIR WEBSITE OR THEIR SOCIAL MEDIA VIA: www.tuicarefoundation.com/ www.instagram.com/tuicarefoundation/ www.facebook.com/tuicarefoundation/ www.linkedin.com/company/tui-care-foundation

THE DESTINATION ZERO WASTE TUNISIA EXCURSIONS WILL ALSO BE AVAILABLE THROUGH TUI FROM 2025, AND AVAILABLE TO BOOK FROM NOVEMBER 2024. FOR MORE DETAILS VISIT: www.tui.co.uk/things-to-do/

Polina’s Travel BOOKCASE

We all know that laying in the sun on a beach is one of the most relaxing things in the world, but sometimes that can make us feel a bit unsettled or bored. Polina Rudichenko is here to bring you the solution

Amazing Train Journeys

Probably my favourite mode of transport whilst travelling abroad is the train. They are (usually) faster and more comfortable than cars, as well as allowing you to rest and eat whilst travelling (especially on sleeper trains!), making the overall time faster. Unlike on a plane, which whilst at 30 thousand feet you miss everything, on trains you can take in the countryside, towns and villages, mountains, seas, forests, lakes… without the stress of check-in’s and baggage allowance!

With this incredibly informative book, you will have everything you need to know to embark on an epic train journey, including logistics, travel time, ticket information, and making the most of the stops along the way. It even covers the train etiquette in each country.

It features fascinating journeys on every continent (except Antarctica), and has suggestions for all tastes, interests and budgets. With beautiful photographs and a logical layout, this book is the best inspiration you’ll ever find.

With bountiful options from the green wilderness and icy lakes of the Canadian Rockies, to the isolated desert of the Australian outback that you’ll encounter when travelling from Darwin to Adelaide on the Ghan, whatever your preference - this book has it covered.

Caving, Canyoning, Coasteering

Are you an experienced outdoorsman? Or do you just fancy a change from Europe’s beach resorts? Maybe you are looking for a holiday closer to home which is less stressful and expensive to get to? If so, this book is for you.

With beautiful photos and engaging text, this informative guide will take you to 30 outdoor activities across the UKfrom Cornwall to the Lake District, all the way to the Scottish Highlands. This book will advise what you should take, where to stay overnight, how to get there, and even the risk factors and skill level required for each activity.

The thrill- seeking activities include well-known ones, such as scuba diving (with seals), sailing, canyoning, caving, and whitewater rafting, as well as less mainstream activities such as fell running, bouldering, and surfski paddling.

So whether you are an adrenaline junkie looking for a hit from freediving, or just trying to get out of your comfort zone with tree climbing, this book is perfect for inspiring your next adventure- with no language barriers!

PUBLISHED BY BRADT – ISBN 978-17847-78927

Romania - Transylvania

With crystal clear lakes, rich green woodland and snow top peaks, Transylvania is one of the most intriguing, alluring, and yet undisturbed parts of Eastern Europe. The lush mountains can be mistaken for Switzerland, and the ancient, majestic cliff-top castles for Germany.

It is just as beautiful in every aspect as the Alps, but for most, travelling expenses such as food, drinks and accommodation are around half the price. Though Transylvania is best known for being the residence of Vlad the Impaler (whether he was a vampire or not), this untouched, full-of-culture landscape has so much more to offer, such as both rural homestays and high class hotels.

This Bradt guide is extremely comprehensive, with detailed maps, history, culture, economy, geography, as well as information on local cuisine, music and dance festivals. The book advises which season to go in for your preferences, what activities there are both outdoor and cultural, and what you will and won’t need to take with you (including, perhaps, the pepper spray for the bears!).

The name – Transylvania – will be familiar to most, but few really know much about the region. This guide will not only address that, but will probably inspire you to want to see it for yourself!

PUBLISHED BY BRADT – ISBN 978-17847-77241

Cycling in Surrey

Although it is lovely to experience travel abroad, we often forget that England, home, also has interesting, picturesque and exciting places to visit and activities to try.

This useful guide focuses, in detail, on a variety of cycling routes in Surrey. It includes a wealth of valuable information that will both enhance your cycling experience, and suggest routes that will be engaging and fulfilling.

This small but captivating book details 21 different routes, with easy to read, simple maps, as well as distance, length of time, difficulty and terrain of the routes. It also includes snippets of history, the geography of the area, the availability of facilities such as toilets, and even personal recommendations of where to eat and drink by the Author. It seems there are plenty of stunning country pubs on the routes in Surrey!

The routes themselves pass through forest, chalkland, and swathes of England’s green and pleasant

land. If you are keen to explore your homeland, see local wildlife, or you just love to cycle, this beautifully written book is a must-have. And unlike regular guides, when reading this one you feel as though you are chatting directly with the author, as the wonderful array of personal touches really bring it to life.

PUBLISHED BY BRADT – ISBN 978-1804-691359

Offbeat: North America

Are you tired of the large crowds of tourists at popular sights when on holiday? Of course, everyone wants to visit those ‘must see’ places, but there is a lot to be said for discovering somewhere that all those others miss.

If you considering visiting North America as your next destination, it may be tempting and easier to stay on the beaten track, with this book you will be inspired to reconsider that position.

From the Ghost Towns of Alberta to News York’s Staten Island, this guide is perfect for seasoned travellers and firsttime adventure seekers alike. It is no ordinary guidebook; it shows not only the maps, history and geography of the destinations, but tells you when during the year is best to go, gives tips of where to eat, and includes stunning colour photographs of each sight.

The well researched guide covers Canada, the U.S., Mexico and the Caribbean, and from hot, sunny getaways, to cold and snowy. With detailed information on one hundred intriguing and enticing under-the-radar getaways, this is the perfect place to start escaping those crowds.

PUBLISHED BY LONELY PLANET – ISBN 978-1-83758-2242

Adventure Travel Twins- England

History, geography and science are vital to a child’s education and development – so this children’s guidebook to England is aimed at 6–10 year-olds, and is a perfect way to get your youngster interested, but with an element of fun!

It follows the adventures of Millie and Marcus, as they set off on their own adventures, and even includes a ‘Find Me If You Can’ game.

The book is bursting with colourful illustrations, an easy to read large font and tonnes of facts about England – all presented in and engaging and simple to follow format.

It is the perfect book to get a child interested in the country that is England, and especially if you are off on a trip in the UK. It is educational without being overbearing, and is a magical book that will keep them wanting to read on.

INDEPENDENTLY PUBLISHED, AND AVAILABLE IN GOOD BOOKSHOPS AND ONLINE.

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