Travel - Globetrotter Magazine - Issue 1

From the editor

Welcome to the very first issue of Globetrotter Magazine!

Globetrotter Magazine is the new name for Pro Traveller, and if you’ve been a reader of that publication over the last fifteen years, then you’ll quickly realise that all of your favourite features are still here under our new name.

Regular items such as Travel Tech, Books for the Beach and CheckIn will still bring you all the latest news and products, and there will be even more in-depth articles on destinations from around the world.

As you’ll probably guess, however, the new name also means we are now working much more closely with our colleagues at Globetrotter Television, bringing you unique behind-the-scenes insights into how those amazing travel programmes are filmed, and brought to your screens. Discover the secrets of the production teams on location, and read exclusive interviews with the presenters and crew. There will even be sneak previews into brand new programmes!

The new magazine will also be more inclusive, inviting Globetrotter readers and viewers to submit their own travel photos and videos. The best ones will be shared in the magazine and on our social media.

If you haven’t already subscribed, just go to the www.globetrottertv. com website, and click on the magazine page. Enter your details, and the new magazines will come directly to your inbox, absolutely free. Make sure you tell your friends too!

Happy Travels, Trevor Claringbold

Meet the Team

John is our Marketing Manager and Star Wars fan. He loves travelling to sunny places as long as the meals available don’t involve fish. Favourite destination: Anywhere warm with unlimited drinks.

Anca is our Art Director and photo fanatic. She likes snow but is always cold so prefers to travel to warm places where there’s a pool, lake, sea or body of water where she can swim. Fun fact: she owns over 15 vintage cameras.

Emma leads our advertising department and enjoys travelling with her family. Any sunny location with a sandy beach is high on her list of dream destinations.

Chloe is our Graphic Designer. With an interest in photography, art, travel and nature, she brings fresh ideas to our designs every day. She is also training to be a Forest Bathing guide.

John Plaskett

Anca Precub

Emma Plaskett

Loch Awe, Scotland

Chloe Clover Oates

CONTENTS

IN THIS ISSUE...

38 Aqui Terme

Chiara Fogliati introduces you to one of the Amazing Spa Towns of Europe

8 This is Central America

Guatemala, El Salvador and Nicaragua via the Gringo Trail

19 Exploring Exmoor

Adam Jacot de Boind looks at a staycation as a year round option

26 Hiking Europe

Going behind the scenes with Globetrotter Television while they film a new series in Europe

19

46 A different side to Florida

John Plaskett finds out that Florida has more to offer than just beaches and theme parks

52 Brittany- The perfect Family Gateway

A family getaway with a twist.

58 Serenity in the Scillies

Choosing a destitation just because of its name? Why not?

68 Gastronomy and more in the Midi-Pyrenees

A relaxing saunter through one of the lesser known, but truly delightful French backwaters,

74 Stopover- Innsbruck

You can do so much with a 24 hour stay - we’ll show you what one Alpine town has to offer

ON THE COVER

Regular Features

14

What to pack for your trip? useful travel accesories for everyone

22

Anca

GET IN TOUCH

Globetrotter Magazine 2 Fremantle Road Folkestone Kent, CT20 3PY, Uk

www.globetrottertv.com

34 Through The Lens

Explore a new location each issue through the images caputured there

Editorial email: magazine@globetrottertv.com

General Enquiries: info@globetrottertv.com Tel: 00 44 (0)1303 850801

Send us your favourite travel photo and we’ll feature it with the story behind it

50 Check In Travel News from around the world

66 Polina’s Books For Beach

Must read books while laying in the sun, (or even cozying up to a fireplace).

Editor Trevor Claringbold

Graphic Designer Chloe Louise Clover Oates

Art Director Anca Precub

Marketing Manager John Plaskett

Advertising Executive Emma Plaskett

Artwork and Design Kudosmedia www.kudosmedia.org

Editorial Integrity: Whilst some trips featured in this publication are sponsored by organisations or hotels in the destination, those organisations have no input into the editorial content, which is wholly and uniquely the impartial work of our writers.

All material is Copyright Globetrotter Media

Forget the North, Forget the South...

This is...

CENTRAL AMERICA

‘Ah yeah, the ‘Gringo Trail…’ said my friend when I told him I was about to go on a whistle stop tour of Central America. Mildly condescending…. he was referring to the string of most frequently visited places in Latin America by foreigners…. I intended to visit many of these places, which are popular for good reason, but with a little local help I like to think my trip to the three central American countries of Guatemala, El Salvador and Nicaragua as the ‘off piste’ Gringo

trail…’

Political and civil unrest in the 1980s kept most tourists away from Central America for a long time. Even my brother who lived and worked in Venezuela for many years in the 90’s was

every corner are cultural projects, street food vendors and many stunning graffiti pieces, from artists such as Pulido or Dopezilla - a character born in the capital - so worth taking a picture with if you see the ‘drugged lizard.’ You may also spot examples of goat graffiti in the city - a reminder of the lost

Under the streets of Guatemala’s bustling capital lies another, much older city: the Maya metropolis of Kaminaljuyú. Kaminaljuyú had a lagoon, but when it dried up the Mayans

The three-mile earthen mound that snakes today through Guatemala City, ‘the great Montículo de la Culebra’ is considered to be the largest pre-Hispanic architectural work in Mesoamerica. It is believed that the mound was also built for ceremonial purposes, since the figure worshiped by almost all pre-Hispanic cultures was the serpent. After the Spaniards arrived in the 1500s, they constructed their own aqueduct on top of the original 2000 year old

The Pinula Aqueduct is one of the first hydraulic architecture works made after the transfer to the new capital of Guatemala. The growth of the city caused the partial destruction of the aqueduct in 1917 and 1918, also destroyed

American road trip.

The streets of downtown Guatemala city are alive with colourful lifelike Pinatas; the colourful papier-mâché figures filled with small toys or sweets. They may have been invented in Mexico, but the Guatemalans do them so well. Around

hillocks of the “Kaminaljuyú archaeological park on Guatemala City’s north side.The two structures were declared historical monuments in 1966; being associated with the Valley of Guatemala from the pre-Hispanic and colonial times.

Park

of the Cerrito del Carmen

One of the only green places in the the Historic Center. Eli says the Park of the Cerrito del Carmen used to be place for drug addicts and prostitutes but in 2009 the government cleaned it up and now its a place where people come to relax and look at views across the city.

In colonial times it was just a grass land and a transition point. But the chapel itself, the Hermita del Carmen, with its sombre baroque elements, was built in 1620 and is older than the city, built in 1776. The history of the Cerrito del Carmen is closely linked to that of the founding of the Guatemalan capital.

It was the starting point of when the capital was moved from the Panchoy Valley to the Ermita Valley. After the earthquakes of 1917 and 1976 the chapel was rebuilt, hence its lack of consistent style.

Che Guevera’s home

Che Guevera lived in the historic centre and at the Pension Meza. Now there is a small display there and you can even book to sleep in his room. Guevara’s Latin American road trip culminated in Guatemala city.

By this point he had seen so many injustices and in 1954 he joined the Guatemala army, the year when a CIA-orchestrated coup ousted the Guatemalan government of Jacobo Arbenz Guzman, a former army colonel whose policies attempted to narrow the chasm betwen the country’s tiny elite and its impoverished peasants, quashing a 10-year effort to build a democratic state.

Under a succession of military rulers who took power after the coup, Guatemala descended into three decades of a brutal civil war in which as many as 200,000 people died, many of them Maya and peasants killed by security forces, before the government and guerrilla forces signed a peace accord in 1996. The Guatemalan government’s brutal repression campaign was one of many carried out in the name of fighting communism in Latin America during the Cold War, often with implicit or explicit approval from the US government.

The Metropolitan Cathedral

Cross over the central plaza in the historic centre and there are twelve stone pillars framing the entrance to the imposing Metropolitan Cathedral.

Following a project by the Catholic Church they have the names of victims of the civil war engraved in gilded letters on them. For now, the pillars are the only testament to those who died or disappeared.

Efforts to bring about justice for the human rights violations during the war have increased in recent years, but a culture of impunity for military and political elites continues. In 2013, former dictator Efrain Rios Montt was convicted of genocide,

but the ruling was overturned just days later. The retrial has been suspended. Meanwhile, the Guatemalan Forensic Anthropology Foundation continue to study bones discovered in mass graves dating back to the country’s civil war.

GUATEMALA

Written before Guatemala’s volcano, Volcán de Fuego erupted- please check the Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) for travel advice.

The lady in her confectionary store flicks on her chocolate fountain machine and dips an array of frozen fruits into it, letting the sauce solidify, then hands me a chocolate dunked banana. It’s delicious. Much better than a standard ice lolly. And much needed as I stroll around the streets of Antigua, with its iconic statues of deities, lions and mermaids all dotted around the Guatemalan city.

The colonial city in the central highlands of Guatemala is located in a valley surrounded by three volcanoes, of which only Fuego is now active. The Spanish Baroque-influenced buildings come in nine different colours, due to its UNESCO World Heritage status, granted for its history, beauty and ruins of colonial churches.

When I arrived it was Constitution Day (May 31) and some sort of ‘ non smoking’ day. School children were playing in marching bands - not just traditional tunes, but the likes of Daft Punks, ‘Get Lucky’ as they paraded through the Arco de Santo Catalina, a covered walkway which originally linked the convents on either side of the street.

In the central park in Antigua Guatemala’s main square, I spot a plaque, shedding some light on the origins of the nickname of ‘Antigüeños.’ So the myth goes, they are known as Panzas Verdes (green bellies) because of all the avocados they ate. The

A hike up the 337 steps of El Calvario is a great way to take in views of the town toward Volcán Agua and to admire the impressive Cerro de la Cruz, one of the city’s three volcanoes. Just make sure you pick a cloud free day! Nearby a small fruit stall sells us salted mango, which I suck on as I look out from the prominent cross at the head of the lookout point, devoted to the city’s patron saint, Santiago (St James).

plaque was placed there by the California Avocado Society to recognise the contribution of Antigua Guatemala to the development of the avocado industry in California, thanking them for giving them the advocate seed.

CHICHICASTENANGO

I travel north west to Chicchicastenango, ‘the city of nettles,’ approximately 140 kilometres north-west of Guatemala City, its known for its traditional K’iche’ Maya culture. At an altitude of 1965 meters, it’s flanked by vast, sloping valleys and vast mountain peaks.

We stop first at the Church of Santo Tomás, where the Maya religious book the Popol Vuh was found. This narrates the origin of mankind. A Mayan ceremony is taking place, incense fills the air, but the offerings are a combination of Catholic and Mayan, with K’iche’ Maya priests on occasion, burning a chicken for the gods.The 400-year-old church is built atop a Pre-Columbian temple platform, and the 18 steps originally leading to a Mayan temple stand for one month of the Maya calendar year.

Next to the church is the colourful market of Chichicastenango strung out along a myriad of tiny streets. Well known for its famous market days on Thursdays and Sundays where vendors sell handicrafts, food, flowers, pottery, wooden boxes, condiments, medicinal plants, candles, pom and copal (traditional incense), cal (lime stones for preparing tortillas), grindstones, pigs and chickens, machetes, and other tools. Vivid textiles bedecked the stalls and local Mayan women wore rich embroidered dresses, carrying their wares on their heads.

The town boasts one of the most beautiful and colourful cemeteries in the world, with with vibrant, richly painted gravestones, painted in the favourite colour of the deceased. I watch in silence as many Masheños (citizens of Chichicastenango) who choose to celebrate life and death the same ways that their Mayan ancestors did burn fires and incense and offer prayers to the gods .

LAKE ATITLAN

Not far from Chichicastenango is Lake Atitlan, a volcanic crater in Guatemala’s southwestern highlands. The largest lake in the country at 130km2 and 340m deep, its framed by three volcanoes. Eli tells me there is a weird phenomenon when at 4pm - every day - no boats will take to its waters as the current suddenly becomes very strong.

Set on a natural balcony overlooking Lake Atitlan there is also a market not intended for tourists, called Solola. Held on Tuesday’s and Friday’s it draws crowds of traditionally dressed Mayans from all over the highlands to trade in fruits, vegetables, fish, flowers, handicrafts, textiles, and live animals.

TIKAL

If you’re short on time, the easiest way to reach Tikal, Guatemala’s UNESCO site of Mayan temples and the largest excavated archaeological site in the Americas, is by taking an early flight from Guatemala City. Landing 400 km away in Flores, set in the country’s third largest lake, Petenitza, in the northern lowland Petén region and a gateway to Tikal. After breakfast by the lake, I spent the day exploring the once flourishing royal city of 90,000 inhabitants - abandoned in the 11th century and quickly reclaimed by the jungle.

Archaeological excavations which began in the 1950s unearthed several pyramids and royal palaces. From the visitors’ centre we hike along a track leading into the forest and the animals are quick to make an appearance. A russet coloured coatimundi, a tropical raccoon, crosses our path

sniffing the ground for insects and fallen fruit. Shortly afterwards our guide points to the treetops where a family of black howler monkeys are slowly swinging through the canopy. Later on as the magnificent pyramids come into view, he stops at a tree root and points out a nesting tarantula.

The area is also famous for chicleros trees. We see scars in trees where the chicle gum is extracted, and used to make chewing gum.

As well as the many towering temples we explore, there are hundreds of mounds everywhere, pyramids left to become overgrown with grass and trees, as they’ve not been investigated yet. As I reach the North Acropolis, my guide Julio Tot tells me to start clapping, the sound pings around me echoing off the multitude of steps like firing bullets.

Back at the visitor centre, a model shows how the site would have once looked. Only the elite lived in the palaces. Farmers lived in thatched houses on the outskirts of the city, eventually they moved away and lived simpler lives, more akin to the maya we see now.

SMART PACK

WHAT THE SMART TRAVELLERS ARE TAKING ON THEIR TRIPS

As you can imagine, with our team regularly travelling the world, we are always in need of good backpacks, and often receive the latest ones that are sent for review. Every so often, though, one comes into the office that has all the staff fighting for it.

The sleek styling of the Gomatic Travel Pack quickly catches the eye, but it’s once you delve beneath the water-resistant exterior that you begin to appreciate why this bag stands out from the crowd.

To begin with, the main compartment, unusually for a backpack, is expandable. Unzip the extendable section, and you have 30L instead of a 20L for when you need more space.

We tested the pack on a recent trip to Scotland, and that extra capacity was very useful for the warm jumpers we needed!

Inside, there are two main compartments, including a sleeve for a good sized laptop, as well as various other useful pockets and holders that are perfect for general travel bits and bobs, or for those important items of travel tech. There is also a rigid case for protecting glasses or similar, a shoe compartment, retractable key tab, and hidden pockets to keep valuables secure.

On the outside there are more storage options, top access, and a magnetic bottle holder – a very useful feature as it snaps closed and out of the way when you’re not using it.

And the clever strap system allows you to switch from backpack to briefcase for those times when you need to make a different impression.

On our test trip, it held enough clothes for a cold weather three day trip, a spare pair of shoes, a 17-inch laptop, washbag, reading glasses, and all the usual extras you would need for a busy weekend break. It was still comfortable to carry, with the well positioned and padded straps, and attracted more than one comment from fellow travellers asking ‘Where did you get your backpack?’

www.gomatic.co.uk/products/the-gomatic-travel-pack

The Gomatic Travel Pack

If your travels tend to involve outdoor activities, such as hiking, climbing, camping or orienteering, then getting good quality kit that is both lightweight and compact is often a key requirement. This new bit of equipment from RUGD is certainly something to consider.

The power bank stores enough energy to recharge devices 2 – 3 times, and the fast charge option will top up the latest Apple, iPads, and Samsung devices to 50% in just half an hour. It also has both USB-A and USB-C ports, and can use both at the same time.

The light has both a super bright mode, and night light option, with 6 powerful LED’s, as well as SOS functionality.

The unit comes with a handy carabiner, so it can be clipped on clothing, or the inside of your tent, and it is certified ‘waterproof, dustproof and shockproof.’ And at less than 10cm square, it won’t take up much of that valuable packing space.

Find out more at www.rugdlife.com

No matter how much of an expert you are at packing, chances are there will always be something that needs ironing before that special night out, or trip to a posh restaurant while you’re on holiday. If you’re lucky enough to be in a good quality hotel, you may have one in your room. If not, it’s off to reception to see if they can lend you one. That’s why more and more travellers are opting to take their own.

And it’s usability – don’t opt for one that works only on 220-240v if you are visiting a country that runs on 110v, for example.

The PRYM Mini Steam Iron is one of the best we’ve found, without it costing a fortune. Its light weight and compact size make it easy to pack, but the powerful steam function is very efficient, even on thicker fabrics such as denim. It can switch between 220v and 110v, so it works globally, and it even comes with its own cute little measuring cup and carrying bag. There are a few key points to consider when choosing a travel iron; its weight – airline weight restrictions are getting tighter so the lighter the better. How well it works – light weight is good, but not if it doesn’t actually iron!

We were very impressed after testing it on a trip around Europe recently, although do compare different retailers, as prices seem to vary quite a bit amongst different online outlets.

RUGD Power Brick Portable Battery & Camping Light

PRYM Mini Steam Iron

AMAZING NEW 3D WOODEN WORLD MAPS

These stunning 3D wooden maps launched on Kickstarter, and consist of 55 self-assembly pieces each. They are easy to put together, taking less than an hour. This lastest edition includes additional wooden inscriptions, names of locations on the map in any language, giftkeychains and illuminations.

There are different sizes to choose from too, and you can pick from Medium, Large, Extra Large, or an Extra-extra Large!

We really like these, and especially the feel of quality. The maps are hand-made from birch plywood, using three layers which are available in natural, gray, blue colors or any other color of your choice! They are made with high quality techniques and eco-friendly materials, and feature a particularly nice option whereby you can mark all countries you've visited or future destinations that are on your bucket list. The maps have tiny holes, so that you can simply put a pin in any location in the world.

The world’s 15 most popular sightseeing marvels, such as the Taj Mahal, Big Ben, and Eiffel Tower, are also available as beautiful push pins.

For the ultimate style, there is even an option to illuminate the continents using neon RGB LED lights which glow in seven main light options. You can regulate the brightness of the light using a compact remote control. The trendy stylish design makes it a unique wooden wall décor for your home, office or as a gift for those enthusiastic travellers!

Key features:

- All pieces are handmade of birch plywood.

- Wooden wall compass, planes and boats are included.

- Includes special sticky tape / double-sided removable adhesive that doesn't ruin your walls.

- Although it is not a true geographical map, in that they can't include every country or island, if you wish to have certain islands or country included just let them know and they will add it. Now that’s good service!

Find out more at www.enjoythewood.com

Exploring Exmoor

Adam Jacot de Boinod looks at a staycation on the moors as a year-round option

With staycations on the rise, Exmoor is the place to connect with nature. My stay was at Holnicote House, part of the Holnicote Estate. It’s set amongst the foothills of Exmoor in the Brendon Hills, just beyond the stunning presence of Dunster Castle and the seaside town of Minehead. All of which is in sight of Dunkery Beacon, the highest point on the moor as it beams down benignly from miles before.

The hotel specialises in walking holidays and expert guided hiking is on offer with cheery leaders who know the routes, adapt to rambling ability and predict the weather. The building itself is a country house with chalet-like cottages.

My one was perfect, warm and cosy. The décor is rustic, tasteful and not over elaborate. None of the chintzy cushions you might expect to go with the predictable clinking of the breakfast cutlery.

The service was warm and unceremonious.

Out on the moors there’s a sensuory overload. The hills roll, the valleys swoop down and the moss-backed trees and neatly-trimmed hedgerows all boast an ancient history of their own. Curly trees stand alongside tall, straight conifers as they resemble a Tolkein landscape of the mystic and the mythical. The colours are synchronised with green pastures, yellow gorse and blue sea and sky, with the brown heather turning purple in the summer.

There is the music of the dawn chorus

and bleating lambs

There is the music of the dawn chorus and bleating lambs, sheep dogs and farm machinery and above all the mesmeric trickle of the streams as they evolve into rivulets and then rivers, collecting the proceeds of other streams on their route. They come down from the steep ravines that inspired Coleridge, who lived locally, so much that he wrote Kubla Khan, a poem unique and years ahead of its time.

The communities are thankfully still vibrant with village halls, village schools and children roaming freely amongst the scarecrows made out of straw. It is the communities, and not just the National Trust, that act as custodians of a region which after all has been there forever.

I have been at many different times of the year but none surpass the emergence of Spring. All is blowing, sprouting and bursting with life and vitality. Lambs gambolling, Exmoor ponies grazing nonchalantly and at ease, horses out on their treks, crows gathering, birds of prey hovering. There are stags, herons, pheasants, bunnies, wagtails and otters.

It is wonderful to watch the sheep chewing on their green diet amongst their young as they develop their independence. Exmoor is truly a walker’s paradise. I recommend following the many beaten tracks, especially the trails alongside the streams, be they Weir Water by Robbers’ Bridge or Badgworthy Water in ‘Lorna Doone Country’, a walk that starts at at Cloud Farm at Malmsmead.

They are walks close by Oare Church where people see the marks on the wall and famously swear they’re the bullet holes from the famous Lorna Doone novel by RD Blackmore.

For a really remote church there’s the one at Culbone which was a steep coastal walk down for me but well worth it as it is thought to be the smallest parish church in England. Everywhere are fords and ancient, narrow bridges. There’s a charming toll bridge at Porlock Weir where I had to move a stone away and knock on the door to donate my 50p.

Exmoor is truly a walker’s paradise

I suggest starting with smaller intimate valleys before confronting the width of the moor and the scope of the Bristol Channel. Further along, past County Gate, down at Watersmeet the rivers come torrentially together and flow out to Lynmouth. While up above, from the cliff top views, I was able to look right across the Channel and see the Welsh town of Barry very clearly.

Exmoor is also fantastic riding country whatever your ability. I entered the previous century in the form of the farmyard at Exmoor Riding . It’s a holistic centre for horses. They are barefooted, have bitless bridles and treeless saddles to enable me to have more contact and greater comfort with the horse.

Experiencing the moor on horseback adds a new dimension. I got to be taken uphill, transported over bogs and led further into the moor proper than I would have reached with any ease by foot.

The other animals didn’t feel the need to run away and the views were improved as I got to see over the strong hedgerows and stonewalls.

There was a fascinating interchange as I rode past four wild ponies as they looked on with a seemingly bemused air and it really made me see it all from their point of view.

It’s so refreshing to see the landscape respected to the extent that there is no sign of litter. And it’s all so isolated. I barely saw another soul.

It’s the best …I felt like a real explorer.

Good to know!

HF Holidays offers a 3-night Self-guided Walking holiday at Holnicote House in Selworthy. Prices start at £285 per person and include full board ensuite accommodation, use of the Discovery Point with access to a large variety of maps and route cards, and relaxed evening activities. To book call 0345 470 7558 or visit hfholidays.co.uk

R A V E L

TT E C H

AirSnap Pro & AirSnap - your go to for the musical lovers

I don’t know about you, but when I go travelling I always need to have my music with me. Either on the train, plane, car or when hiking, I do love to add my own background music to the scenery that I’m going through.

That being said over the past couple of years I have been struggling to find a case that will hold my AirPods safely.

I used to have a rubber one that served me well for about a week until it started falling apart. Now I got the chance to test some of the products from TwelveSouth and one of those is answering my needs perfectly.

Another great feature of this case is that I can charge my AirPods without even removing them from it, plus it also works via wireless charging.

The company also provides an AirSnap Pro version that is compatible with the AirPods Pro, made out of either leather or twill that also comes with an S-clip to secure them to your bag and an extra wrist strap that can offer an additional carrying solution.

Both cases are available in both a twill or leather option and there are multiple options of colours for both of them.

Price ranges from £20- £40.

I can honestly say that since I started using mine I have been very happy with the overall style and quality of this product. I can spot my AirPods from a mile away and I can finally stop worrying about breaking or damaging the case.

You can find more information on their website at www.twelvesouth.com

The AirSnap is a hardcase for the AirPods that not only is keeping them safe and protected, but also has an incorporated clip that can get attached to my bag and they come in a grey colour that is easy to spot at the bottom of my very full bag.

Anca Precub puts the latest gadgets, gizmo’s, and travel tech to the test!

AirFly Pro

For those of you travelling in pairs and love listening to music or podcasts together, I have the perfect solution. We all know that on a long airplane flight watching a movie is one of the favourite go to activities to pass the time. But what happens when you’re travelling with a friend and you both want to watch the same programme, or listen to the same audiobook or podcast.

Twelve South is coming to our rescue again with a small stylish device that is allowing you to connect 2 wireless headphones simultaneously. No matter how long your flight is and train journey, this device comes with a great 20+ hour battery life that could outlast even the longest international flight, which means you can binge watch all of your favourite series with your travel buddy without any worries.

You can also use the AirFly Pro to stream music from your phone to an Aux in in a car or a speaker. On a flight for example all you have to do is plug it into your seat’s headphone jack and then connect your AirPods or any wireless headphones you have.

The AirFly Pro comes with its own drawstring stylish pouch that can hold device as well as its charging cable, plus with a handy instruction booklet that explains how to connect it for the first time.

Price ranges from around £30-£55 and you can find more information on Twelve South website at www.twelvesouth.com

One thing I personally love when it comes to travelling is always meeting new cultures, learning about new traditions and one of my favourites: learning new languages, or at least how to say “thank you” and “hello”.

Not trying to brag, but I do know my way around a few languages, and even if that is helpful when I want to order a coffee, say hello or thank the waiter for my food, when it comes to asking for more information or directions, even I get a bit stuck.

And yes, it’s true that nowadays almost everyone speaks English, but what if you find yourself in a remote village in Italy, on top of a mountain in Austria, on the sea coast in Greece and the only people around only can communicate with you in their mother tongue?

Pocketalk- your portable translator

Well, that’s when this handy device comes in place. Pocketalk S is a two-way translator that offers you access to 82 languages at the touch of a button. It’s small sleek design fits in even the smallest pockets, has two built-in speakers and dual microphones with noise cancelling that will pick up your voice even in the busiest of environments.

Another cool feature is the conversion option, that will help you convert currency, length, and temperature.

Even if the Pocketalk will only work while having an internet connection, you can store up to 10,000 translations. So you can view past translations, tap on them and use them when needed.

In terms of charging it up, it uses a standard USB C cable connection, and once fully charged it has a 4.5 hour translation life span and a 2.5 day standby time. Plus it only takes only 105 minutes to charge, so that can be done while having lunch or while on your afternoon nap break.

There is also the Pocketalk Plus version, that supports the same amount of languages, but has a 40% larger screen and a better battery life.

The price ranges from £200-£250 and you can find more information on their website at www.pocketalk.com

The device also features a 8mp camera that will allow you to instantly translate text and signs, which I can see coming in so handy when you want to go to a restaurant that is less visited by tourists and the menus are only in the local language.

Despite its small size, the text is easy to read and the touch screen function is responsive. After you start it up you get to select the language you would need translating from/to and you are ready to go.

There’s an option to connect the translator to a wifi network, but you also get a complimentary 2 year cellular data plan that will provide you with coverage in over 130 countries and regions, after that you can actually use your own nano sim card as there’s a slot on the left hand side for it

Besides the translating capabilities, you can also use the Pocketalk as an educator, as you can practice learning another language via the “Role Play” function that covers common conversations from the airport, hotel, restaurant, sightseeing and shopping.

We are happy for items to be submitted for review, if they are of a technical nature, and serve a purpose for travellers. All items submitted will be reviewed by our team, and included in this column in a future edition.

Items are accepted on the basis that they will not be returned, and that our review will be fully independent. We will publish a contact website address with all reviews. Items should be sent to:

Travel Tech, Globetrotter Magazine, 2 Fremantle Road, Folkestone,

ALPE ADRIA TRAIL

MY WAY OF EXPLORING.

Three countries and one common trail. Experience hiking, gastronomic and cultural diversity of the Alpe Adria Trail that will impress you with its authenticity. 43 stages will take you from the foothills of Grossglockner in Austria, through Slovenia, to the Italian town of Muggia at the Adriatic Sea. Choose your very own stage and start your journey.

#ifeelsLOVEnia

#myway

#tasteslovenia

www.slovenia.info

Behind the Scenes with Globetrotter Television

HIKING EUROPE

THE ALPE ADRIA TRAIL

How often have you watched a travel documentary and been wowed by the places that the presenter finds themselves, or the things they do?

Then read on...

Maybe it was diving with sharks, or accompanying a zookeeper into a wild animal enclosure? Perhaps you held your breath as they crossed a swaying rope bridge, or jumped from a high cliff? Yet, have you ever paused to think about just how those scenes are actually captured, and what it takes to get that travel series onto your screens?

Imagine where the poor cameraman might be perched to film that cliff jump? Or the one that drew the short straw to film the presenter in the big cat enclosure, not knowing what might be creeping up behind him! Most filming trips are months in the planning to try and ensure everything will run smoothly once the filming begins. But there are always a thousand things to be done, and issues to be solved along the way.

Let us take you behind the scenes on Globetrotter Television’s most recent filming trip, for a new series called ‘Hiking Europe’. It follows the 750km Alpe Adria Trail from one of the highest points in Austria, through Slovenia and Italy to the Adriatic Sea.

The route crosses some of Europe’s tallest mountains, navigates fast moving rivers, and is packed with all manner of activities. An experienced and dedicated hiker would expect to complete the full trail in around 42 days, but they don’t have to carry 15kg of filming gear!

We drove to the start point at the famous Grossglockner glacier via the spectacular, twisting, High Alpine Road, giving us a teasing insight into the magnificent scenery to come. We reached the glacier just as the sun was setting, and after a brief look at the start point our small team headed to the nearby town of Heiligenblut, arriving at the cosy National Park Lodge for the night.

Heiligenblut is known as the ‘Mountaineers Village’, and as we woke the next morning and took our first look out of the windows in daylight, it was easy to see why. The most perfect alpine view stretched in all directions, with a white church perched on a rocky outcrop, a glistening stream meandering through the perfectly green valley floor, and a backdrop of stark, imposing mountains with the sun kissing the summits. If ever inspiration was needed to get out and start the trail, this was it.

The Alpe-Adria Trail is not just a hiking route, it’s an adventure. It has been cleverly thought out, and designed to take in a diverse range of landscapes, places of interest and activity options. It skirts mountain ridges, follows river valleys, and visits picturesque towns and villages. It also throws in plenty of surprises, as we found out on our very first stop outside of Heiligenblut.

As the path descends into a lush green valley, a few log cabins sit alongside the shallow river which dances over rocks and boulders. Tall, thin waterfalls sprinkle down from the mountain, and meander through the trees to join the river. Monika Rosler is waiting to greet us, and introduce our presenter, Esme, to ‘gold panning’!

In such a glorious location, Esme thoroughly enjoyed her lesson, sitting comfortably on the river bank with her feet in the stream to keep her cool in the hot sun. Behind the camera, however, spare a thought for two of our camera operators… Anca is perched on an uncomfortable rock filming from the middle of the stream, and Chloe is trying to stop herself from sliding down the slippery river bank!

Rivers, lakes, and water generally feature heavily on the route, and a few miles further along was one of the most awe-inspiring stages of the first few days. In the heart of the Hohe Tauern National Park is a 2.5km path that climbs the Groppenstein Gorge. It clings to the cliff edges, passes raging rapids, crosses tiny bridges and demonstrates the raw power of Mother Nature with three imposing waterfalls.

It was a tough climb, especially with all the camera gear, but worth every step. It’s one of those places you just want to film every inch, although it proved challenging to keep the lenses

free of spray from the cascading water, and the deafening noise made it hard to hear what the presenter and guide were saying.

In contrast, our overnight stop that night was the very essence of tranquillity. The Alexander Alm is a traditional mountain hut, high on the mountainside above Lake Millstadt. It provides hikers and cyclists with good home-cooked food, and basic accommodation. If you are hiking the route on a budget, these huts are the perfect choice, and have their own unique atmosphere that bonds you to your fellow hikers. With a location such as this, after a welcome sleep, we were all up before dawn to film the sunrise as it lazily poked its head up from behind the distant mountains.

This region of southern Austria is known as their lake district, and many of the stages drop down to take in waterside walks and quaint little towns along the way. Towns such as Gmund, with its eclectic community of artists and galleries amid the pretty coloured streets and lanes. Wander around the sculpture gardens, drop in on a craft workshop, or time your visit for one of the many festivals or exhibitions.

On the lakes there are also an array of activities to divert you from your hiking; kayaking, paddle boarding, sailing, or just taking advantage of the crystal clear waters for a refreshing swim.

If you’re someone that lives for great views, this is definitely the trail for you, as the stunning panoramas come at you constantly – even when you least expect them. Perhaps none more so than the moment you emerge from the woodland trail near Tarvisio, expecting some relaxing forest bathing, to be confronted with the most immaculate emerald green Lake Fusine stretching out before you, perfectly reflecting the gleaming white mountains beyond it. A real ‘wow’ moment, and one of those locations that makes our job easy. The only difficulty is having to stop filming and move on, when you always want to shoot more!

Over the border, in Italy, filming from the summit of Monte Lussari was much more challenging. At almost 1800m above sea level, even using the cable car for the filming equipment left a fair way to climb in the 30 degree heat. However, once we got our breath back, we were all transfixed by the breathtaking 360-degree views from the peak.

From here, you can see all three countries, and in the tiny hamlet clinging

precariously to the mountain a hundred metres down from the top, the priest gives a mass in all three languages to acknowledge this important tri-nation region. Filming on a mountain is hard enough, but filming on water is always the most complicated. Heading south from the Slovenian town of Kransjska Gora, we cross the dramatic Vršič Pass, and meet our travelling companion for the next few stages of the route – the Soča River.

Although we had a few glimpses of it at the bottom of the mountain pass, our first real encounter was in a narrow gorge cut by the fast moving waters, and where we were to film Esme navigating the stretch on a kayak. It looked beautiful, with the tall, sheer rock faces, and absolutely clear waters sparkling under a clear blue sky.

Nature wasn’t going to make things easy for us, however. The very few viewpoints along the cliffs were both difficult to reach, and uncomfortable to rest on with a heavy camera. But we managed to get two of the team in position, well stocked with water and sun cream! As a reasonably experienced kayaker, I was to go on the water with a small waterproof camera, to get shots from close quarters. After fixing a number of GoPro’s to the kayaks of Esme and the guide, and hiding voice recorders on them both in the waterproof bags.

I set off ahead to find little nooks in the rock face where I could ‘hide’ with my kayak, so that the land based cameras couldn’t see me. It was a major effort to stay in place, as in the fast moving, swirling water, mini whirlpools were trying their best to move me along or turn me upside down.

After an hour of intense filming, we had enough to use, and myself and the guide were finally allowed to celebrate with a quick bit of excitement down through the rapids!

A little farther downstream, it was back in the water for a slightly more relaxing rafting trip, with an equally complex set up, before rounding off the day of activities by jumping off a mountain… strapped to a paraglider.

Of course, the trail itself carries on through the Soča valley, alongside these escapades, so you can just watch all the fun on the river as you hike past… but where’s the fun in that?!

Even as the trail slowly leaves the high mountains behind, weaving between Italy and Slovenia as it edges closer to the Adriatic Sea, it still manages to integrate so many interesting

places to visit, and sights to see. The first moment the shimmering blue waters of the Adriatic Sea pop into view, as you reach the cliff top defences of Duino Castle, is a pivotal moment.

Although there are still a fair number of stages, and even more kilometres left to go until you reach the end point at Muggia, the mere sight of the sea gives you the impression that the end is sight. And walking the trail along the cliff tops has a whole new feel after all the mountains.

Naturally, to the viewers watching, and to our friends and family at home, we’re all on holiday having a great time, with barely a thought of work. There’s no denying we love our job, but I’ll let you into a few secrets.

For example, on screen you’ll see Esme having a nice relaxing morning in a wellness centre, leisurely trying the different pools, relaxing on the beds, and so on. Behind the scenes we were running really late, and that whole section was filmed in 17 minutes. As director, it was a matter of ‘Get in, swim, relax, get out and on to the next one’! And food… our hosts gave us some amazing meals, but somehow always managed to serve us huge portions just before we were about to run up a mountain!

Personally I always love to see the many different accommodation options, and the trail provided some glorious places, albeit with a few local ‘quirks’… such as the apartment that had a clear glass window from the living room into the bathroom for some reason. Not ideal when there are four of us sharing, but a blanket held up with two of our tripods solved the problem.

Even though technically we were travelling the Alpe Adria Trail for work, however, we all thoroughly enjoyed the trip, and two of our team have already talked about going back again to take a more leisurely look. Whether you have the time to hike the entire trip, or just select part of it for a shorter break, it is a truly magnificent route that is guaranteed to impress.

You can see the results of our filming in Globetrotter Television’s new series ‘Hiking Europe – The Alpe Adria Trail’, on Sky Channel 186. For more details follow us on Facebook at ‘Globetrotter Television UK’, or visit www.globetrottertv.com

YOUR PHOTOS

Been somewhere captivating ? Done something amazing ? Email us your journeys to magazine@globetrotter.com or tag us on Instagram using #globetrottermag and you could have your image shown here in a future issue.

Tharshan Balenthiran

@thejournalofanexplorer

Location: Skógafoss Waterfall, Iceland

“For me, this photo represents what travelling is all about. Having grown up in London my whole life, I caught the "travelling bug" going on an interrailing trip in Europe when I was 20, and this just made me realise how little of the world I had experienced growing up.

On this journey, Iceland has definitely been the highlight with its stunning array of landscapes, and has shown me how beautiful the world can be if you venture into the unknown.”

VERSAILLES

...THROUGH THE LENS

Above : The Royal Gates of Versailles, recreated 200 years after being torn down during French Revolution, with 100,000 golden leaves.

Below : The Royal Courtyard, with a statue of Louis XIV erected by Louis Philippe in 1837. This would have been the grand first entrance to Versailles that Royal Guests would have encountered over the years.

Surviving the French Revolution of 1792 relatively unscathed, Versailles stands as a stunning monument to the Ancien Regime. The palace began life as a hunting lodge, built by Louis XIII due to the abundance of game in the surrounding forests. It was architected into a Chateau by Louis XIV, and became a place of leisure and grand parties, until finally in 1682 becoming the main residence for the French Court. The Palace, the Gardens and the Park cover more than 800 hectares, just 20 miles from Paris.

Some famous parts of interest include the Petit Trianon, occupied at different times by both Marie Antoinette and Madame du Pompadou, and of course the Hall of Mirrors, consisting of 357 mirrors, which with its’ 30 painted compositions on the vaulted ceiling by Le Brun. Versailles is also known for its gardens, with over 50 fountains, and 600 water games.

Above : One of the many corridors of Versailles, where behind the gilding were often secret entrances to private hallways for Royals to remain hidden from visitors. Many were rumoured to have been used for illicit liaisons.

Below : The ornate Royal Chapel, constructed in 1710, was designed by Jules Hardouin-Mansart in the style of Gothic Architecture.

Above : The famous Hall of Mirrors is a grand Baroque style gallery, where the Treaty of Versailles was signed in 1919, ending WWI. Three hundred and fifty seven mirrors adorn the seventeen arcades, and the thirty compositions by Le Brun are designed to illustrate the reign of Louis XIV.

Above : A Royal bedchamber, with brocades, fabric made with gold and silver thread. The King and Queen would have had separate apartments.

Above Right : The ornate ceilings were painted by leading artists of the day.

Right : The view across the gardens from one of the royal apartments.

Above : Known as the Lake of the Swans, this fountain depicts the chariot of Apollo, The Sun God, as he emerges from the water ready for his daily flight above the Earth. The gilded lead masterpiece was made by Tuby, and took two years to construct. It was installed at Versailles in 1671.

Below : Made of bronze, lead or marble, Versailles has a stunning collection of 386 statues, making it the largest open air sculpture museum in the world. Engineers of the day were challenged to bring the 6,300 cubic metres of water to the 1,600 water jets each hour, resulting in the most significant advance in hydraulic techniques since Roman times.

Laying at the four crossroads of the garden’s principal alleys are the four main fountains of Versailles They are dedicated to the four seasons, and were built in the 1670s. There is a viewpoint at the end of the Latona’s Parterre from where all four fountains can be seen at once.

The statue of Bacchus, the Roman God of wine and revelry was created by André Le Notre.

Images Taken using a Canon 1200D and the Tamron 28-300mm

Acqui Terme

The recent Globetrotter Television series on the Amazing Spa Towns of Europe opened many people’s eyes to these unique places. But what’s it like to live in one of these towns?

Writer and local journalist, Chiara Fogliati gives her view of one of them…

Set amid rolling hills around 50 miles northwest of Genoa, Acqui Terme is a quiet town in the province of Alessandria. With less than 20,000 inhabitants, it’s not a big place. Yet it’s one of the most popular tourist destinations in southeastern Piedmont.

With its endlessly gushing hot thermal waters, Acqui Terme has been a popular place to visit for more than two millennia. The highly sulphurous, natural hot and cold springs are classified as ‘First Super Category’, and nowadays lend themselves to a wide variety of spa treatments. But that’s not the only reason to visit this amazing little town.

Its urban area is surrounded by the magnificent Langhe Hills, from where you can enjoy a magnificent view of the vineyards, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014. The town is highly regarded for its location, for the rich food and wine traditions, and also for its history, exhibitions, sporting and cultural events.

Since Neolithic times Acqui Terme has seen numerous important historical moments, which have all left their mark. Many significant signs have been wonderfully preserved over the years, and are still visible today.

According to legend, the city was chosen by Greek colonists, who originally settled here precisely for the thermal waters. These had already been evaluated as incredibly therapeutic

Vada Sabatia (Vado Ligure, not far from Savona), making the city a very important political and economic hub. It is no coincidence that the major attractions of Acqui Terme date back to this period, and are still the main sights to see today.

Perhaps the most impressive are the remains of the Roman Aqueduct, which brought drinking water to the city cisterns and pools. The Aqueduct still dominates the view from the top of the Charles-Albert Bridge, as it crosses the Bormida River. From here, you can easily reach the two kilometre cycle track, and pedestrian path that runs alongside the river.

and advantageous to health. The original town dates back to the end of the 2nd and the beginning of the 1st centuries BC, when it acquired the Latin name, ‘Acqui Statielle’, in honour of the Ligurian Statielli tribe who inhabited the area. They were defeated by the Romans, despite being a barbarian population supposedly at peace with Rome. However, this was the reason why, shortly afterwards, that the Senate granted them compensation to make amends.

Following the Roman conquest, some incredibly important communication routes were opened, such as the ‘Via Emilia Scauri’ that connected Derthona (present-day Tortona) and

Not far away is the attractive Roman thermal pool. This was extremely innovative and modern for that time, being a heated pool that could be accessed comfortably from all sides, filled with thermal water that flowed from the biggest source in the city through an ingenious underground connection system. Closer to the city centre, the Roman Theatre is a far more recent discovery, but still worthy of a visit.

Despite their ancient origins, most of the structures in use today have been built since the late 1800’s. The Bollente is the main thermal spring in the heart of the city. It is surrounded by an impressive monument in the neoclassical style, built in the mid-1870s’. People come with all kinds of containers to collect the water, or to just breathe in the aromas.

The thermal water flows at a steaming 74.5 degrees, rich in sulphate, chlorine, magnesium, potassium and hydrogen sulphide. It was used to heat the thermal tanks, (inside what is now the Grand Hotel Nuove Terme), and some public buildings through a district heating system.

After the decline of the Roman Empire, the transition period between the Ancient World and the Middle Ages was particularly important in the city from an architectural point of view, with the so-called era of ‘Late Antiquity’ giving us some of the most characteristic structures. As well as the sumptuous homes of the wealthiest Acqui families, with their majestic doors and ornate facades, many of the most important religious buildings were also built during this era Just outside the main town centre, inside another neoclassical

styled structure, is the Fontanino. There is no mistaking the highly sulphurous, egg-smelling water which flows down with its characteristic strong diuretic properties, as the sulphur in the water is so highly concentrated that you can smell it from almost a mile away!

And if you are touring the historic buildings, don’t forget the open-air theatre. It is located among the restaurants and little local shops of the historic tourist centre, that offer the typical products of the area. The theatre is home to a variety of shows and concerts during the summer season.

Sitting in a commanding position at the top of a broad, cobbled street, the impressive Cathedral of Saint Mary of

the Assumption is characterized by three naves developed along its nine spans. The building has undergone a number of renovations and transformations over the centuries, but is home to important and valuable works of art. Most notable are the crypt – where every pillar is uniquely decorated - and the stunning Triptych of Bartolomé Bermejo, commissioned by an important Acquese citizen living in Spain. It’s a truly amazing work, with the left panel depicting the Birth of the Virgin, and St. Francis receiving the stigmata. On the right panel is The Purification, and St Sebastian, whilst the central panel represents The Virgin of Montserrat with the Child and the Donor.

As well as many cow’s and goat’s milk cheeses, such as “Robiola di Roccaverano DOP”, a creamy cheese made with a raw dough and no rind, that contains at least 50% goat’s milk. It is even better if served with its “soul sister” “Cugnà”, which is the particular mustard of Piedmont, made with grapes, quince apples, pears, apples, some toasted and chopped hazelnuts and walnuts, orange and lemon peel, sugar, a little bit of crumbled cinnamon and cloves. And of course, you shouldn’t forget the desserts:

“Baci di Dama”: two hazelnut biscuits with a layer of dark chocolate in the middle.

“Brutti ma Buoni”: biscuits prepared with both sweet and bitter varieties of almond in the dough, and whose look is quite ugly, even if the taste is incredibly good! (That’s why we can literally translate their name as “Ugly but Good”).

“Paste di Meliga”: crumbly biscuits made with corn flour.

“Krumiri”: biscuits whose original recipe is top secret!

EATING AND DRINKING

Acqui Terme is also known for its rich culinary tradition, which includes recipes that are handed down from generation to geeration. Here are some that are worth seeking out:

“Bagna Cauda”: a sauce made with anchovies, oil and garlic that has to be served hot.

“Bollito Misto”: different meat cuts boiled with vegetables and served with a mustard sauce.

“Tajarin”: a special variety of pasta, whose dough is prepared with fresh eggs and with a shape similar to spaghetti (but a little bit larger and thicker), served with different types of sauce (mushrooms, tomato or the typical “Ragù”).

Wines: The wines of the area are recognized as especially high quality, in particular the “Barbera d'Asti”, the “Barbera del Monferrato”, the “Dolcetto d'Acqui” (all red table wines), and the “Brachetto d'Acqui”, a sweet wine, perfect at the end of a meal with the desserts mentioned above.

“Bonet”: a dark chocolate pudding.

“Amaretti biscuits”: incredibly soft biscuits baked with the inside part of an almond.

SHOPPING:

Many of the foods and wines above can be found along the main shopping streets in the town centre. The Corso Italia, Via Mazzini, Via Garibaldi and Corso Bagni are the best places to head to, and where you’ll find a whole array of interesting shops to explore.

THE THERMAL ESTABLISHMENTS:

As its name suggests, the city offers an excellent choice of thermal spa and wellness treatments, which are recognized as high-level spa treatments.

They are good for both curative purposes (especially arthrosis, rheumatism, airways diseases, gynecological and dental problems) and beauty purposes (such as massages, Turkish baths, pressotherapy, and mud therapy).

There are also relaxation rooms, swimming pools, a Roman bath, chromo-aroma therapies, a Finnish sauna, solarium, a moving water pool, cervical waterfalls, hydro-massages in salsobromoiodic water, and much more. At the time of writing, changes of ownership means that not all facilities are open, so do check before you visit.

EXCURSIONS AND SPORTS:

If you prefer sports and excursions, the city also offers a variety of attractive landscapes in the surrounding area. The hills of Langhe, the Apennines, the Val Bormida and the road along the Erro River leading to the town of Sassello, are all scenic routes suitable for both quiet walks and trekking. I particularly like the ”Sentiero delle Ginestre”, and the more adventurous bike excursions, which make excellent trips out of the city.

USEFUL LINKS:

The websites below provide useful information about tourism, the thermal and beauty spas events, hotels, shops and restaurants of Acqui Terme and the Monferrato.

The last website also has information for a special voucher that can give you some reductions in the price of holidays in Acqui Terme, called “Bonus Destinazione Acqui”.

www.piemontescape.com

www.monferrato.org

www.monferrato.org/eng/ turismo.comuneacqui.it/events

turismo.comuneacqui.it/bonus-vacanza-acqui-terme

‘Amazing Spa Towns of Europe’ is available to watch on

‘Amazing Spa Towns of Europe’ is available to watch on Amazon’s Prime Video, and on the Globetrotter Television website, where you can also see the full schedules for our programmes on Sky Channel 186.

A DIFFERENT SIDE TO FLORIDA

John Plaskett takes a look at a side of Florida far away from the traditional theme parks and beaches, as he looks ahead to the Players Golf Championship

The view from my hotel room is everything you would expect from a hotel in Florida. I have panoramic vistas of beautiful sandy beaches that quietly invite you to waste your days relaxing in the sun. As difficult as it is to deny my desires, however, I was here on a mission! To explore what else North East Florida had to offer.

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, it’s hard not to know where Florida is. On the South East coast of the United States of America, the Sunshine State is the tourist destination of choice for millions of people every year. The hot sun, endless beaches, theme parks and other attractions make Florida such a desirable location to escape too.

The North East of the state is not normally associated with the typical tourist experience, particularly as the theme parks of Orlando, are some distance to the south of here.

St Augustine, where I’m based is the oldest, European colonised city in America, having been founded in 1565 by Don Pedro Menendez. He was Spain’s most experienced Admiral, sent by King Phillip II of Spain.

At 452 years old it has quite an impressive history, having been the property, on and off, of both Spain and England throughout the centuries.

The city has done an amazing job of preserving that history, and is one of the only cities to have it’s own fully staffed Archaeological department. In fact, if you plan on building anywhere within the historic district you would have to pay for a full archaeological excavation before you begin.

There are so many stories to tell and there is no shortage of people willing to tell them. A popular favourite is to take a ‘Trolley’ ride through the sites. A train, driving on the road the trolley stops at points around the historic centre with a very detailed recount of all you could need to know.

Alternatively you can enjoy guided walking tours, one of which will specifically appeal to the ghost hunter in you, as you’re taken on a guided excursion to many of St Augustine’s most renowned ghost spots. All the stories we heard had harrowing tales of loss and unfortunate events. The one that gave me goose-bumps was the tale of a young, unidentified girl who died of yellow fever 200 years ago. She now can be seen playing in the cemetery that she is buried in, as well as at the town gates waving to locals to warn of upcoming disasters. I genuinely felt like she was next to me during recounting of this tale, and hope she hasn’t come home with me.

Castillo de San Marcos has been defending the city for over 300 years. It was originally a wooden fort as natural stone was difficult to come by. Eventually, due to the threat from the English in South Carolina, the fort was upgraded to a stone construction using a locally sourced material called Coquina - a limestone consisting almost entirely of shell fossils. It was originally overlooked as its light and porous nature made the builders feel it wasn’t up to the task of being used to construct a fort. However Coquina’s porosity made it perhaps the best material, as canon balls would be absorbed into the rock instead of shattering it. It is because of this, and its strategic position that the fort was never conquered.

Today the fort is open to visitors, who can experience guided tours which paint an incredible picture of North America’s oldest masonry fort. Its past tells of tales both noble and villainous, but for me, it’s most exciting history revolves around its dealings with pirates.

St Augustine’s connection with pirates is extremely colourful. Being the last stop before Spain for the treasure galleons filled with gold, it was the best place to maximise your plundering efforts. It was so treacherous that maps at the time gave the warning “Here there be pirates”.

Full blown criminals, Pirates, or Privateers like Sir Francis Drake, who operated under the banner of one of Spain’s enemies would wait and either capture the slow moving treasure ships, or destroy them and plunder the wreckage.

This history is celebrated now in the St Augustine Pirate and Treasure museum, which is a family friendly interactive museum filled with artefacts found from the time. It’s not a massive museum, but does contain some unique pieces on display, such as Blackbeard’s Blunderbuss, one of three remaining “Jolly Roger” flags, and Captain Thomas Tew’s original treasure chest - which is the only known authentic chest in existence.

It also has a nod to pirate movies, with the actual sword used by Captain Jack Sparrow from the Disney movies, as well as an audio experience of Blackbeard’s last battle. Being intrigued by the swashbuckling days of old I thoroughly enjoyed the visit, and felt the call in my heart to become a pirate myself… although perhaps something I’ll save for later in life.

Of course gold was not the only treasure to be found in St Augustine. For the city is also home to something much more

Sawgrass, in Ponte Vedra, is the historic home of THE PLAYERS Championships. The first thing you notice is the incredible scale and tranquillity of the area. Everywhere you look there are a team of workers preparing upgrades to the course ready for the next season… and they don’t seem to have spared any expense.

Visually speaking they’ve gone to the effort of rebuilding and resurfacing the greens, redesigning practice grounds and

precious. I’m speaking of course of The Fountain of Youth. Legend has it that the Governor of Puerto Rico, Juan Ponce de León, heard that supposed vitality restoring waters were in the St Augustine area, from a shipwreck survivor named Hernando de Escalante Fontaneda.

Of course the spring he found had no such qualities, and the Governor did eventually lose his battle against time. However today the fountain is very much still there and is now part of the Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park. The park encompasses the original 1565 site of St Augustine, and contains dwelling reconstructions from the now extinct Timucua Indian tribe, as well as gun and canon demonstrations, and the infamous fountain of youth… which I may have had a sip from.

All the museums and attractions here are a fun experience, with locals acting out scenarios with enthusiasm and accuracy. You get an incredible sense of pride from all the residents, here and their determination to see history preserved is a testament to this.

Heading north of St Augustine you’ll find another gem. But don’t be tempted by those beautiful beaches just yet. For before you get to the city of Jacksonville you will come across the home of one the worlds biggest sports. I am of course talking about golf.

have even gone so far to just put a new lake in between holes six and seven… you know, just because you can!

And if you’re a golfer, you’ll note that they’ve redesigned hole 12 to make it a more enjoyable par 4, and a new interactive activity called PwC’s First Tee Challenge – where you can try your luck at a replica of the infamous 17th Hole. It’s at this point I should point out that my golf skills need vast improvement.

Most Europeans would imagine that the food both here at Sawgrass, and in St Augustine, would be focussed on fast food. In fact, it is a veritable foodie’s paradise. Beautiful, elegant restaurants in St Augustine such as the Spanish ‘The Columbia’, provide the most tantalising food you could want, but still in the traditional American portion size of large. Despite the amount, you feel determined to eat all you have, because the taste in your mouth is something you never want to end.

And if you decide to head out to TPC Sawgrass during competition time, they source some of the best food from the region, spread out throughout the course from a Taste of JAX to Trucks on 10, and of course the Blue room VIP lounge.

If you want to attend in style, well, this will set you back a cool $5,000. For this you’ll get valet parking, concierge services, unlimited food and beverage from menus crafted by award-winning chefs, special access to private suites on

holes 17 and 18, a $500 shopping credit to apparel only available to ticket holders, and a special RFID badge so staff know food preferences and who your favorite players might be.

And if you’re travelling as a family, young people aged 18 and under can attend for free, as long as a paying adult accompanies them. Quite a familiar offer, however, and there is no limit to how many young people to adults, so one paying adult could bring any number of youths with them.

So whether you’re here for the golf, or for some unique American history, this region is certainly a must.

Wyndham Garden Sebastian www.wyndhamhotels.com

Four Points by Sheraton www.fourpointsjacksonvillebeach.com

Trolley Tours www.trolleytours.com/st-augustine

Fountain of Youth www.fountainofyouthflorida.com

St Augustine Pirate Museum http://thepiratemuseum.com

Ghost Tours of St Augustine www.ghosttoursofstaugustine.net

TPC Sawgrass https://tpc.com/sawgrass

World Golf Hall of Fame www.worldgolfhalloffame.org

HIKING IN THE CANARY ISLANDS: GOOD FOR THE MIND, BODY & SOUL

Imerse yourself arount the beautiful natural surroundings on the Canary Islands and hike along four approved nature paths which are part of the official spanish and european E7 trail.

Whether travelling on foot, by bicycle or even in a small 4x4, the Canary islands is a great place to get lost in nature. It’s the perfect spot to unwind and rediscover yourself.

Jean Guy Le Roux, a Canary Islands hiking guide says: “If you pay attention to the details of the path, you’ll see the environment a different way. Little by little you’ll feel more at one with the planet. Both physically and psychologically, it creates peace and an improvement in your state of mind. You can’t see it at the time, but it’s making changes inside you. For more information on the Canary Islands, please visit www.hellocanaryislands.com

SIGHTSEERS CAN NOW GO GREEN ON THE UK'S FIRST FULLY ELECTRIC COACH FOR GUIDED DAY TRIPS

British sightseeing company, Evan Evans Tours, has recently unveiled the UK’s first fully electric zero-emission coach for guided day trips. The plush, new electric motor coach will allow visitors to see iconic British sites in a more environmentallyfriendly way on select day tours from London.

It’s the first time that an electric coach has been used for guided day trips from the capital, representing a major breakthrough for London’s longest-established sightseeing company. Accelerating coach tours into a greener future, the new Evan Evans vehicle can travel up to 200 miles on a full charge and will be used on a range of day trips including the Buckingham Palace and Royal Windsor Tour, Warner Bros. Studio Tour and select London Day Tours

NORTH DOWNS WAY RIDERS’ ROUTE

Originally built in 1978, the North Downs way, running from Farnham in Surrey to Dover in Kent, has recently (last November) had a £300k revamp! It is now fully accessible to cyclists for the full route, running past many cafes and accommodation facilities to stay for the night.

The 153 mile trail was used by pilgrims travelling from Winchester to Canterbury Cathedral, and passes 8 castles as well as 3 Cathedrals, along with Neolithic sites, and Roman, Napoleonic and WWII fortifications. Boasting rolling green

hills, valleys and forests, the route is perfect for history and nature enthusiasts alike. Find out more at:North Downs Way Riders’ Route - Kent Downs

MONGOLIAN PRIME MINISTER ATTENDS OPENING OF LANDMARK “CHINGIS KHAN” MUSEUM

IN

The Prime Minister of Mongolia, L. Oyun-Erdene, attended the opening of the new Genghis Khan Museum in Ulaanbaatar. The new museum presents the history of Mongolian kings and nobles and nomadic Mongols from the Khunnu dynasty to the beginning of the 20th century.

Its opening represents the most significant development in the promotion of Mongolian culture and society for 30 years. Spanning a history of two-thousand years, the museum contains approximately 12,000 exhibits. 93 percent of these are original exhibits, and the rest are based on artefacts housed across ten national libraries and museums.

The accessibility of the museum exhibits is enhanced through extensive use of modern technology, including virtual reality. Each memorial has a QR code, which visitors can scan with their mobile phone to access additional commentary in Mongolian, English, and Russian.

Commenting following the ceremony, Mongolian Prime Minister L. Oyun-Erdene said:

“Not only will the extensive range of accessible exhibits help foster increased awareness of our country’s unique heritage among Mongolians – in particular younger generations – they

NEW ENVIROMENTAL FRIENDLY NORWEGIAN COASTAL VOYAGING

Discover the World is launching a new collection of Norwegian Coastal Voyaging using the most environmentally friendly ships sailing that coast with Havila – 2023 is also the 130th anniversary of the coastal route.

With an emphasis on sustainability the ships have an energyefficient hull design and the world’s largest battery packs, charged from hydropower at the quay allowing the sip to sail

Newly opened to the public, the Ad Gefrin Anglo Saxon Museum and Whisky

Distillery is the perfect place to learn about the history of the 7th century Anglo Saxon Royal Court of Northumbria discovered at Yeavering. Originally discovered in the 1950s in the middle of pasture, archaeologists revealed large timber halls and a wooden grandstand.

A centre for international trade across Europe and cultural exchange, the Great Hall of the Royal Court was a place where women could own property! Visitors will be able to explore the history through immersive AV technology, as well as through the mediums of art, spoken word, music and dance. Featuring real artefacts borrowed from international museums and a full scale projection, this is the perfect place for a family day of learning.

For more information visit adgefrin.co.uk

for 4 hours with zero emissions. When battery power has been used the ship switches to LNG. This, together with efficient hybrid operation, means that CO2 emissions are cut by around 25% and NOx emissions are reduced by around 90%.

There are year-round departures for the full itineraries as well as the option to use the route as a hop on and off service. And there are some incredible excursions, including a glass bottomed canoe trip, which looks amazing!

Find out more at www. havilavoyages.com

Brittany…

The Perfect Family

Getaway?

The evolution in family holidays has never been greater than the last two decades, and nowhere is this more apparent than in the growing range of multi-activity campsites designed to cater for all ages. But how good are they for a typical family holiday, and what are the advantages and pitfalls of such a site?

A quick call to Canvas Holidays saw us booked into one of France’s finest sites – Domaine des Ormes, in Brittany. If you don’t like long continental drives, you can opt for the longer sea crossing to St Malo, from where it’s just half an hour by car. Or you can make a day of it from Calais, and stop off a few times to break up the four hour drive. We chose the latter, taking in a section of the glorious French coastline, and stopping in the delightful city of Caen to visit the impressive fortifications and old town area, before arriving at the campsite by teatime.

Domaine des Ormes is set in the grounds of an imposing 16th century chateau, and from the moment you head up the long driveway there is a feeling of quality. The check-in is quick, easy and friendly, and the short journey from there to our mobile home passed through the main centre of the ‘parc’,

giving a tantalising glimpse of the many things on offer for the coming days.

A large indoor-outdoor pool area, with waterslides and wave pools, overlooks a small valley where kayaks and pedalos are navigating a picturesque lake. Overhead, a zip wire flies across to a small fir woodland, where a canopy adventure course is lurking in the tree tops.

On the other side of the valley is the restaurant and food area, a small but well-stocked supermarket, and another large lake with a number of water sports options. Beyond that is the golf course, tennis courts, foot golf, horse riding, and more. This was definitely not going to be a boring week.

Even with all those activities, the parc has an air of relaxation and tranquillity. Our accommodation is a modern, wellequipped mobile home on the edge of the camping area, backing on to a forest where a number of trails are marked for hiking and cycling. The decking area has a table, seats, and gas barbecue, which was immediately put to work cooking the food we had brought with us. Sitting in the peaceful evening air, with just the chorus of birdsong to serenade us, we are already pleased with our chosen location.

The mobile home was clean, well-organised, and well stocked with all you will need for your stay. There is a microwave, fridgefreezer and cooker in the kitchen area, and the bathroom includes a good quality power shower. The bedrooms were a little tight for space, but putting the empty suitcases back in the car once you’ve unpacked helps to remedy this.

We had planned to alternate our days between staying on site, and visiting the local area, so the next morning, after an al fresco breakfast, there was only one place at the top of everyone’s itinerary… the pool.

There is no denying the ‘wow factor’ that immediately hits you as you walk into the giant glass building. The roof is so high that it allows the array of pools, slides and rivers to be surrounded by palm trees and all kinds or greenery. The largest of the pools gently slopes into the water from a kind of artificial beach, and is ideal for families with

children of different ages. Older children can go a bit deeper, whilst still in view of parents looking after babies or toddlers where tiny waves lap the shallowest area.

Every half hour the wave machine starts, drawing excited swimmers from all around the pool area. Once you’ve enjoyed this a couple of times, you also learn that the best time to go to the big slides is during the waves – as there are no queues. Not that we ever had to wait more than about 30 seconds.

Elsewhere there are other smaller pools, of different depths, and even a mini zip wire, all linked by a lazy river that you can swim around.

The river also links to the outside pools, which are surrounded by ample relaxation areas, sunbeds and grassed parkland. I think we visited the pools half a dozen times across the week, including an evening pool party, and never tired of it.

It may be the centre point, but the pool is far from the only excitement to be had. For the adrenaline junkies, the tree-top

adventure course not only winds its way precariously around a series or wires and ropes, high up in the woods, but also sees you crossing the lake twice in a similar fashion. It’s not for the feint hearted, but there is a full instruction briefing by the qualified instructors before you set foot on the first rope ladder, and they are on hand to assist throughout.

Elsewhere, there are more family orientated options, such as tennis, volleyball, and even a foot-golf course that is great fun. There are also bikes to hire, allowing you to make the most of network of paths in the surrounding area.

With all of this, and more, there is more than enough to keep you occupied all week. But it would be a shame to come all of this way and not take the chance to see what this delightful region of France has to offer.

Top of most people’s list is the iconic Mont St Michel. This tiny island-town is joined to the mainland by a narrow causeway, just half an hour from Domaine des Ormes. Its unmistakeable silhouette dominates the flat horizon as you approach. To preserve the area, the car park is some distance away, but there is a shuttle bus if you want. We chose to walk from the car park, which takes around 20 minutes, and gives great views as you approach.

The awe-inspiring abbey that tops the 80 metre summit dates back to the 8th century, when the Archangel Michael apparently appeared to Aubert, the Bishop of Avranches. The island was gradually covered in a mixture of medieval Romanesque and Gothic stone buildings that also reinforced its role as a fortification on the very edge of Normandy.

As France’s second most popular tourist attraction after the Eifel Tower, le Mont St Michel is always busy. Once on the island, the narrow, bustling main street winds its way steeply up between enticing shops, busy restaurants, and occasional glimpses out to sea. The ascent seems endless, as even

when you enter the gateway to the abbey that commands the summit, you are only just over half way! Stick with it, though, as not only is the abbey itself worth the effort, but the panoramic views from the top are truly mesmerising. When the tide is out, as it was when we visited, the sands stretch for miles. This is a magical place, and demands time to fully explore all the tiny lanes, alleyways, and pathways around the defensive walls.

Farther along the coast, the endearing port town of St Malo is the polar opposite of le Mont St Michel, with broad, bright boulevards and pavement cafes. Once inside the substantial city walls, the relaxed feel urges people to just amble amid the historic buildings, slowly taking in the chic, period atmosphere. Close to the main gate is the Duchesse Anne Creperie. Take a tip and try one of the gorgeous fruit and cream covered waffles, accompanied by a glass of the locally produced Duchesse Anne beer. The perfect aperitif before relaxing on the magnificent beaches.

Equally appealing, yet very different, is the wonderful citadel of Dinan. Full of old-world charm, the town is protected by almost 3 kilometres of immense 13th century stone walls, which surround the entire hill top. There are street after street of colourful, half-timbered buildings, intriguing little shops and quaint cottages adorned with cascades of flowers. It’s a photographer’s dream, and we also spotted a number of artists capturing the views on canvas.

A narrow cobbled street meanders down to the original port area, which sits at the end of the broad lower reaches of the River Rance. An old stone bridge marks the

whilst still making it a warm, friendly and comfortable place to enjoy. It makes the task of finding a holiday for a demanding family, and especially one with children of varied ages, very easy.

Without doubt, every member of our family would jump at the chance to return!

limit of navigable river for larger vessels, and from here it narrows and heads inland through pretty valleys, under the shadow of the former railway viaduct high above.

With so much to see around the area of Domaine des Ormes, as well as so much to do on the site itself, the only difficulties you will face are choosing what to do first. It’s a destination that will offer interest and excitement for all ages, without breaking the bank. The parc has an undoubtable air of quality,

Useful Info

Canvas Holidays: www.canvasholidays.co.uk

Tourist Information: www.brittanytourism.com

Ferries: www.brittany-ferries.co.uk www.poferries.com

S

erenity in the Scillies

I have a couple of confessions to make.

Firstly, until now, I had no knowledge of where the Scilly Isles were, let alone what treasures they might hold.

Secondly, when brainstorming ideas of where to take my seven year old girl in the Easter holidays, I purely chose the Scilly Isles because it sounded… well, silly (other possible candidates were the Isle of Man, Isle of Skye or Isle of Dogs).

Obviously any good travel journalist would never choose to visit a place based on its name.

But this time, at least, it paid off...

We opted for the Skybus to transport us by air from Exeter airport, over the craggy Cornish coastline for an hour, to St Mary’s, the largest of Scilly’s five isles.

As we descended, a variety of uninhabited pebbled pyramids cast doubts on how one could live here. It almost seemed too remote. I mean I wholly empathise with anyone wishing to escape the rat race and embrace everything wild that is nature. And so far, this archipelago was sporting a face of white sand framed by luscious green locks – so what’s not to love? But I was praying this place at least had some toilets and running water.

Would you try a destination just because of its name?

Emma Plaskett does just that!

Soon after landing we were greeted by an islander who drove us to our hotel, meandering secret lanes, dotted with adorably unique houses. Yes they did have cars, and yes it did feel like the set of Postman Pat. Everyone knew each other, and it turned out that by the end of the trip we would know them all as well.

Schooners Hotel, our haven for the next four nights, was thankfully situated in Hugh Town, the busiest part of St Mary’s. The benefit of this being we were only a stone’s throw from the beach, harbour, shops, pubs, restaurants and even a play park. There was certainly no need for public transport here (although a few taxis do inhabit the island). At only 2.5 square miles, everything was within walking distance, even by my standards.

In fact, we had somehow coincided our visit with the Walk Scilly Weekend, an annual event that magnetises keen hikers and birdwatchers - which I confess I am neither. However, given that I spend an unhealthy portion of my life driving, this was a surprisingly welcome opportunity to stretch my legs and inhale possibly the freshest air my lungs have ever known.

During the first evening meal at a local pub which, much to my daughter’s delight, had an indoor play area, I was invited to join the local GP and his wife to share a bottle of red, whilst they gleefully narrated their life journey of leaving the mainland for a life in Scilly

It wasn’t long before I could understand the lure of these islands - not just for their desert-like beauty, but the untainted spirit of its inhabitants. This was equally a breath of fresh air. Even my seven year old had made a bunch of new ‘best friends’ already.

The next day, after a hearty Schooners breakfast, we set off for a morning of rock pooling. Our friendly guide, Darren, from the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust, led us on an experience never to be forgotten. My girl not only managed to out-talk him but was extremely proud to be the first to find a shore crab, a goby fish and a starfish.

The view of the bay from the rocks was the definition of tranquillity. This was the ultimate retreat from tech, and brought back childhood memories of carefree beach life. No bikini body paranoia or instagramming selfies. Just good old-fashioned beachcombing.

Our guide led us to the charming Wheelhouse Guesthouse for a spot of tea and cake. We soaked up panoramic vistas of the bay, whilst sharing tales of our rock pool discoveries.

Lunch at the local Bavarian cafe, Strudel in Town, set us up for a gentle stroll to the local play park near the Garrisononce a frontline defence spot for England.

After an unnecessary amount of shell collecting, we dined in true British seaside style with fish ‘n’ chips on the beach before ending the day with a thrilling bat detective walk, ducking from pipestrelles amidst elm trees after dark.

A much needed night’s sleep in our family room motivated us for a boat trip to the neighbouring island of St Agnes.

A true birdwatcher’s paradise, St Agnes is all about seabirds (and especially puffins) and if you’re after isolation, you’ve got it. Those daring enough can cross the sandbar to the island of Gugh during low tide, and embrace a castaway life as the tide cuts off access to all exit points. At least you can make friends with the nine foot tall ‘Old Man’ stone and the Bronze Age Obadiah’s Barrow.

Alternatively, exercise a few social skills and meet some of the island’s artists such as Emma Eberlein, at Potbuoys Shop and Gallery. She upcycles beach finds, making creative use of pebbles, driftwood and even plastic bottle tops - a huge inspiration, even to the least creative types.

Don’t expect the same level of dining options here as on the other islands, however, although it’s hard to be disappointed by the Coastguard’s Café. It offers delicious lunch options sourced from local island and Cornish produce. It’s not every day that afternoon tea is set to a backdrop of emerald clifftops peering over azure waters.

There is a scattering of bed and breakfast accommodation on St Agnes, and even a campsite perfectly positioned overlooking the pristine bay. It’s perfect for exploring the stone maze and its surrounding mythical giant tors. Whilst here, a trip to Troytown Farm to sample their homemade ice cream is essential.

Returning to St Mary’s at the end of the day almost felt like Vegas in comparison to the sparse moors of her neighbour, St Agnes. But winding down with some tapas and a glass of wine at waterside restaurant, Dibble and Grub, whilst little one continued her search for shells on the shore below was a gratifying end to an energetic day.

The next day’s excursion was to Tresco, the second largest of Scilly’s isles and home to the worldrenowned Tresco Abbey Gardens. The threat of rain reminded us of our location, on the edge of the Atlantic, but thankfully the glorious sunshine held out in this sub-tropical paradise. Despite the presence of over 20,000 plant species here, my daughter seemed far more occupied trailing a golden pheasant which,

admittedly, was a natural wonder in itself.

Built in the 19th century, the gardens are home to some world class species, emanating from New Zealand and Burma to South Africa and Brazil. And with a Mediterranean climate, we were grateful to take shelter under swaying Canary palms; an allusion that we were anywhere but on British soil.

A half hour walk to the north of the island led to the New Inn pub, for a well-earned (and delicious, Sunday lunch.) With two castle ruins still to explore, we needed the energy. Both Cromwell’s and King Charles’ Castle played important roles in protecting the British Isles, particularly during the English Civil War – a gentle reminder that these islands were once not quite as peaceful.

After a short boat ride back to St Mary’s, we made the most of our last night by dining at one of the island’s most prominent hotels - Tregarthen’s. With views over the bay, and a children’s book corner, complete with a toy kitchen, our intentions of having an early night were kissed goodbye. Making the most of our last night was a good thing, though, as kissing goodbye to these magical islands the next morning was also going to be a struggle.

USEFUL LINKS:

www.schoonershotel.co.uk

www.scillyboating.co.uk

www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk

Spotlight on…

Life as a travel presenter is certainly never dull. So we took the chance to sit down with Ellen, and for once, she was the one answering the questions:

Ellen Coughlan

If you’re a regular viewer of Globetrotter’s television programmes – and if you’re not, why not? – then you’ll instantly recognise Ellen Coughlan as one of the most popular presenters.

Ellen was the very first presenter to join Globetrotter, and was immediately thrown in at the deep end with a trip to Iceland where she had to take part in a 5km fun run… at night, and in sub-zero temperatures!

Since then, viewers will have seen her travelling around the United States, climbing aboard a space shuttle, learning to shoot on a ranch, riding an Olympic bobsled run, and even surfing in New York City. Farther north, in Canada, Ellen ventured out into the choppy waters of the Atlantic in search of icebergs, crept quietly through a forest to watch the black bears settling down for the night, flew high above a lake on the country’s longest zip wire, and spent a night in a whisky distillery!

When did you first want to be a travel presenter? discovered a love for traveling from a young age when my parents used to take me on summer holidays. We would sometimes go abroad to Spain, or enjoy a staycation in Ireland, but I loved every bit about visiting new places. Even the excitement of buying new clothes for the trip and packing a suitcase was all part of the experience.

So, once I was old enough to travel with friends, I did, and spent a summer in Greece when I left school, and moved to Australia for a year after finishing university. After that,

Working in the media was always my goal, and at first my sights were set on radio presenting.

But it felt quite lonely on my own in a studio, and in my early 20’s the thought of being able to do what I loved, whilst seeing the world, became my new goal. So, I moved to London from Ireland to follow my TV presenter dream.

What is the hardest thing about the job?

The hardest thing is working long hours, finishing late at night, and starting very early in the morning on most days - but it’s easier to get out of bed when you do something you love. It doesn’t feel like work. It’s also difficult being away from loved ones for a few weeks at a time, but at least it’s easy to stay in touch these days.

What is the strangest thing you've been asked to do?

There have been so many! One that sticks out the most is getting ‘screeched-in’, in Newfoundland, Canada. Whilst filming in St John’s I was told that to become an honorary Newfoundlander I would have to get ‘screeched- in’! What’s that I hear you ask? Well, as I stood dressed in plastic bright yellow overalls (don’t ask) I was told by a local fisherman, ‘Repeat after me, deed I is me old cock, and long may yer big jib draw.’ Then he pointed a large, dead codfish directly at me, mouth first, and told me to kiss it, before instructing me to down a shot of ‘Newfoundland Screech’- a spiced rum that evolved from Newfoundland’s trade relationships in the Caribbean. The rum unsurprisingly was the best part!

Ellen comes across the strangest thingswhilstfilming.Whathasshe’s discoveredinthehole?

Most recently you may have seen her in the popular series on the ‘Amazing Spa Towns of Europe’, staying in a hotel featured in a James Bond film, and bathing in King Edward VII’s bathtub.

Ellen in Canada visiting Prince Edward Island, home to Anne of GreenGables.

EvenEllencan’tresistofaphotoof a spectacular sunset. Any guesses wherethisis?

If you could take your mum to just one place that you've visited, where would it be, and why?

I would take my mum to New York City, because I know she would love the big city and appreciate the electric atmosphere as much as I did. There was so much to do and see that we would probably need a full week, but I would certainly include a cycle ride in Central Park, a stop for lunch around Time Square, and a trip to enjoy the views from the Empire State Building.

What is the funniest memory you have whilst travelling?

We enjoyed some Tidal Bore Rafting in Nova Scotia, Canada, which was so much fun! The raft became stuck in the mud on the way out, and we had to jump into the murky water to push it into a deeper area. However, I started sinking in the muddy quicksand, as did the girl next to me. She tried to use me to pull herself up, which just pushed me down even further! I did eventually get out, and after the rafting, like excited children we got to slide down a large hill covered in wet mud; great fun, but I ended up sliding right into a poor man standing at the bottom of the slope, much to his and his friends amusement! Safe to say it wasn’t my coolest hour.

What do you do with all the time off during a filming trip?

There can be relaxing moments while filming, for instance Ellen gettingagoldleafmassage.

How do you know what to ask the people you interview on your trips?

I am usually interviewing someone about a particular location or local attraction, so I often lead the conversation with things that I am already curious about myself, as I know viewers might be asking the same questions. Once conversation is flowing it usually leads to more questions about why the place is so special and why tourists should visit etc. The best interviews are always more conversational and relaxed, rather than too structured.

There is usually no time off during a filming trip! We work every day, but we usually have so many exciting activities that it doesn’t feel too much like work. In the evenings, if we finish the filming early, myself and the rest of the crew usually go out for dinner and a drink or two... or three.

Where was your happiest moment? There are so many to choose from, but one of my happiest moments was filming on top of the Empire State Building. It was incredible; the views were breath-taking, and it was always on my bucket list, so that was a real pinch me moment. I never thought I would be filming a TV show in New York City, never mind on top of one of the world’s most famous landmarks.

What is the worst thing you've had to eat or drink?

Being a vegetarian in Texas wasn’t too much fun, especially as we were filming in a lot of steak houses. A lot of the time I was pretending to eat big juicy steaks, and once the camera went down, I would pass the steak to the camera man, John, to enjoy.

One day I asked a waitress if they have anything vegetarian for me, and looking quite annoyed. She came back with two bowls of boiled vegetables. Safe to say I was starving that day!

peopleisoneofthebestpartsofthe job.

What is the one item you never travel without?

Packing cubes! They keep my suitcase super organised, which is important when living out of it for weeks, and moving hotels every few days. I usually have one for trousers/ skirts, one for tops, another for dresses, etc. It keeps everything tidy, and it means there is no routing around for things as I know exactly where everything is.

If you would like to join Ellen on her journey’s, watch all the episodes on our website at www.globetrotter.com or catch up on Amazon Prime or Sky Channel 186

Ellen embraces her multitasking skills, presenting while streering a boat.

Polina’s BOOKS FOR THE BEACH

We all know that laying in the sun on a beach is one of the most relaxing things in the world, but sometimes that can make us feel a bit unsettled or bored. Polina is here to bring you the solution in the form of the best titles to take away with you on holiday.

Rolling Through the Isles by Ted Simon

A testament to modern Britain, this memoir of Ted Simons’ travels through the isles of the UK on a motorbike will have you hooked. Having travelled the globe twice after graduating from Imperial College, Ted returns to the country that raised him for a final trip, even going back to the site of his old school, as well as Trench Hall, where he spent two years as an evacuee, and finally retuning to his ranks of the RAF, where he completed his national service.

“Drifting through my childhood memories at home, I was captivated by images of the different, older England they suggested so vividly”, writes Ted. In this insightful journey, Ted aims to recapture those reminisces by “piercing the armour of contemporary society”, and by learning from locals the secrets of the places he rides to. Full of perceptions into history, geography, and nature, this nostalgic memoir of a man’s final adventure will have you laughing and crying.

Shape Of a Boy by Kate Wickers

An inspiring memoir by Kate Wickers, this book captures perfectly what it means to travel the world with your young family, about the perfect memories it creates, as well as the mishaps and setbacks.

Encapsulating the highs, lows and reality of distant travel, it will take you far and wide, from the jungles of Borneo, to the concrete jungles of Japan, to the cowboy towns of Latin America. Full of life lessons, this book is about bravery, perseverance , remorse and pure elation.

“Oh, but they won’t remember any of it!”. Well, Kate writes, “Might as well just stick them in a cupboard until they’re teenagers then”. With wit and humour, this read will teach you about the history and geography of the places visited, as well as the modern worlds’ need for conservationism. You will only regret the chances you don’t take in life; don’t let not being inspired by this book be one of them!

Climbers

by Peter Cossins

“Climbers” is a thrilling look into the obscure world of mountain biking. Drawing on the evolution of mountain-climbing, it looks chronologically into how the sport has developed through the years, and how these “men of the mountains” can conquer such immense challenges.

This thrilling read demonstrates the ardour of these men, including “elfin Italian” Marco Pantani, who, when asked why he rode in the Pyrenean mountains so fast during the 1998 Tour de France, said “To shorten my agony”. Using contemporary reports and exclusive interviews with high-profile riders, including female riders, this book looks into what it is like to compete in such “unforgiving terrain”. What drives these men to go to such extreme lengths to succeed? Find out in this epic odyssey of mountain biking, written by renowned journalist Peter Cossins, who has reported on the sport since 1993

The Ethical Traveller

by Imogen Lepere

Aligned with the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals, this book of 100 tips is the perfect companion to any traveller who is determined to keep the planet healthy. Whilst a lot of travellers worry only about the money it costs them to travel, this book makes you think deeper, and question the ethics of travel.

Whilst personally enriching, travel must also be useful for the communities visited, helping them grow and develop, instead of using their resources and dirtying their surroundings. Furthermore, the environmental costs of travel, for example long haul flights, cannot be ignored. Though it is sometimes difficult to question the way we have been brought up to think of travel, this book opens your eyes in an engaging and positive way.

Doused in heritage with old hamlets, drowsy villages and towns studding its hills, Southern France’s Occitania region only officially come into being in 2016 with the pairing of Languedoc-Roussillon and the Midi-Pyrenees, two historically Occitan regions, with a stack of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Food is still approached food and drink with reverence in the region and a whistle stop tour around four different departments of the Midi Pyrenees; Tarn, Gers, Tarn-etGaronne and Haute Garonne gives you plenty of opportunity to experience some of its best gastronomy.

Learn how Armangnac is produced

Armagnac Delord in Auch, Gers has a family history of 4 generations, starting in 1893 when travelling distiller and cellar master, Prosper Delord, went from farm to farm, transforming white wine into Armagnac.

In 1932, this sons Gaston and Georges, created the House of Armagnac Delord Frères in Lannepax, gradually selling their Bas-Armagnacs from Gascony to the United States and since then the family has continued the Armagnac adventure.

In less than an hour from Toulouse you are amongst the vineyards of Froton, which is distinguished by its use of the black Négrette grape - which gives a fruity flavours of violet, blackcurrant, blackberry, raspberry and licorice with peppered notes to the wine. Over the centuries, Négrette, became exclusive to the Fronton appelation, which covers the departments of Tarn-et-Garonne and Haute-Garonne.

Chateau Bellevue La Foret is located 30 km north of Toulouse and one of the largest single privately owned wine estates in the Southwest of France. The unique Negrette grape is used to produce the red and rose Chateau Bellevue La Foret under the Fronton Appellation.

Wine is said to have first started being produced there in the Gallo roman period. But, its thought it was in the 12 century when the knights of St. John of Jerusalem brought the grape back from Cyprus and developed the vineyard.

Taste the wines and take lunch at the Maison des Vins & Tourism of Fronton at Château de Capdeville or at Château Caze at Villaudric - the oldest wine storehouse of AOP Fronton built in the end of the 18th century.

Chateau de Saurs - Lisle sur Tarn

At Armagnac Delord you can see many, many elegant bottles of blends ranging from three to more than 30 years old- as well as some vintages from the 1900 to now. The distillery is now a small family business run by two brothers, distilling using the traditional methods to produce a large range of high quality vintages. The whole bottling process..the labelling, wax sealing and gold embossing is done by hand by a team of two or three.

A tour of the facility includes a trip to “Paradise” which is where the oldest vintages are stored in glass jars, or Bonbonnes to keep them away from the light. After the armagnac grapes are vinified- they are distilled and stored in these cellars containing over 1000 barrels and a dozen oak tanks to age and protect the Armagnac.

The barrels have to be toasted french oak barrels to give it its colour and the finished products are blended to give different flavours- which of course, you can sample at the end ouf your tour.

Located about 50km from northeast of Toulouse the vineyard is owned by the Gineste de Saurs family, who have lived in the area since the fourteenth century. The estate is centred on the château, which was built in the mid 19th century. Most of the wines produced at the Château de Saurs are reds and sold through the family’s group of restaurants in Paris and Geneva and all the wines after the 2012 vintage are organic.

Castelanu de Montmiral 10 kms north of Gaillac

Located close to one of the oldest natural oak forests on France, Gresigne forest, the Château de Mayrague sits in rolling, wooded countryside on the slopes leading down to the Tarn river.

Built in the 13th and late 16th centuries, the Chateau de Mayragues is one of the few surviving examples of the local fortified architecture with an overhanging balcony running round the top of the building which served in ancient times as a defensive walkway. n 1980 Alan and Laurence Geddes bought the Mayragues when it was in a state of total ruin and restored it with the help of local craftsmen and using only traditional materials. In 1998 they won the Grand Prix of the Vieilles Maisons Françaises, and now Mayragues is listed as a Historic Building.

Learn more about how foie gras is produced

Terre Blanche, Saint-Puy, Gers is a former eighteenth century farm is now a craft cannery specialising in breeding, cooking and tasting ducks. Owner Christine Labatut will introduce you to the farm and show you how a variety of their delicious products are made.

The farm was created in 1982 and the ducks there are reared in the same way as they are in the middle ages. All spend their time in open-air Gascon farms for 14 weeks and then are force-fed whole corn for 12 days . The liver grows to make up about ten percent of animal. During the 12 days they put on 4kg-6kg - which they can loose it in three days if they aren’t killed. Christine says its a natural process- similar to migrating birds, who fill themselves up with food before they cross the sea.

In one day a wild duck can eat three times their body weight - before they fly. She also says the birds are fed in the same way a mother feeds her chicks, by placing the food down their necks, so the animals don’t suffer. Don’t miss out on the chance to taste the liver, before and after its cooked- just a sprinkle of salt to flavour it.

Visit the Victor Hugo market.

The famous Victor Hugo market is home to some of the best quality produce in the area and features over 100 stalls with fish, charcuterie, fruit and vegetables, bakeries, patisseries. Follow a visit with a walk around Toulouse, known for its unique architecture made of pinkish terracotta bricks, which earned it the nickname la Ville Rose (“the Pink City”). Despite this, it was blue that made Toulouse wealthy.

Varying shades of the colour can be seen everywhere on shutters, on lamp-posts, doors and, windows. The city was founded on the trade in pastel dye, between the mid-15th and mid-16th centuries.

Visit the historic cathedral at Ger, Auch- the birthplace of the legendary D’Artagnan.

A 1 hour drive west of Toulouse is Auch, ithe historic capital of Gascony, a region of bastide castles, vineyards and small villages.

The first stone of its UNESCO registered cathedral was laid in July 1489 but the cathedral was only consecrated around 60 years later - but even then it wasn’t completely finished, that happened almost two centuries later, with its classical facade dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. Inside there are three treasures, its great 17th century organ which is said to be one of the finest in the world for playing Baroque music, its 113 Renaissance choir stalls of carved oak- these feature more then 1 and a half thousand biblical characters and the 18 renaissance stained-glass windows by Arnaud de Moles. There is also an 18th-century archbishop’s palace, with a 14thcentury tower, adjoining the cathedral. Outside the cathedral is a statue dedicated to Louis XIV famous captain of the Musketeers Guard, D’artagnan.

Things to do in the Midi Pyrenees

Visit Moissac - Tarn-et-Garonne

Moissac - with its World Heritage cloister from 1100, is one of the prides of the Tarn-et-Garonne and a mecca of Romanesque art. There is no other example in the world of a cloister of the time that has survived so well. Moissac was and is still a major step on the road to St Jacques de Compostela and also the starting point for walks along the Canal des Deux Mers

Discover the medieval village of Cordes sur Ciel - Tarn

From the nearby hills looking onto the Cordes sur Ciel, you can see how this bastide town got is name. Until 1993, the town was called was Cordes, thought to mean rocky heights or a reference to Cordoba in Spain, famous then for its leather craft. That year, it was renamed Cordes-sur-Ciel, due to its height above the clouds, and a good place to watch for attacks. Now its classified as one of the Grands Sites Midi-Pyrénées Built in the early 13th century by the Count of Toulouse, the

town is considered to be the first of the bastides or fortified towns - in Southwest France. The first impression of Cordes is a thickset and austere appearance, from its military role - with stones are piled high for protection. You have to break through this first line of defence (there are five in all!), through the gateways of ‘les portes de l’Horloge, de la Jane or des Ormeaux’ to discover the hanging gardens, the fig trees and the almond trees. Higher still, is the central market square and the covered market, with the Middle Ages give way to the Renaissance.

Cordes became wealthy through merchants, who, thanks to trade in leather and cloth, built sumptuous houses from the late 13th century, with ostentatious facades demonstrating their wealth. In the 15 century it was pillaged as part of the Hundred Years’ War but because homes had been built within the original 13th-century ramparts, they escaped heavy damage during the religious wars at the end of the 16th century. Exploring the town you can see many examples of Gothic architecture as it evolved over the 13th and 14thcentury lining the main road. Useful

Stopover – InnSbruck

With more and more people avoiding crowded flights, and choosing to drive to destinations in Europe, the idea of building a ‘stopover’ into your holiday plans is becoming increasingly popular.

In this series, we’ll be recommending a different destination each issue, and giving a taste of what you can see and do with a 24-hour stay.

trevor clarIngbold vISItS an alpIne favourIte

We’re starting with a favourite of ours – the pretty Austrian town of Innsbruck. It’s a place we’ve stopped at a few times whilst heading back from Venice or the northern Adriatic coast. It’s conveniently close to the motorway that traverses the Alps, and if you leave after breakfast, you can reach the Channel ports by evening.

Nestled in the broad valley of the Inn river, and surrounded on all sides by mountains, Innsbruck is a picturesque, enchanting and lively town. The historic centre is full of character, but in no way feels old-fashioned in its appeal.

We were staying in the Hotel Faktorei, a friendly boutique hotel facing the river. It’s just a few minutes’ walk across the bridge to the Old Town area, which is busy with people enjoying the many shops and restaurants. The streets are lined with colourful, historic buildings, fronted with arched palisades that draw you in to satisfy your curiosity.

Right in the centre is one of the most photographed sights in Innsbruck, known as the Golden Roof. It dates back to 1500, and was created using over 2000 gilded copper tiles to celebrate the wedding of Emperor Maximilian I. The roof covers the balcony on the front of the building which was the residence of the Tyrolean Sovereigns, and from where they would look out over festivals and events in the square below.

Staying with the historical theme, a short distance away through a narrow lane are the sprawling white buildings of the Hofburg. This was the Imperial Palace, and is definitely worth a visit. It is one of the most important

cultural structures in the whole of Austria, and a guided route leads you through opulent state rooms, frescoed ceilings, art galleries, and the royal apartments as they would have been for Maria Theresa in the 18th Century, and Empress Elisabeth from the 19th.

A medieval towered gateway adjoins the palace, linking it to the gothic church. And if you happen to be here at meal times, the historic buildings also house the Siftskellar Restaurant – a popular local eating house that won’t break the bank.

A medieval towered gateway adjoins the palace, linking it to the gothic church. And if you happen to be here at meal times, the historic buildings also house the Siftskellar Restaurant – a popular local eating house that won’t break the bank.

Back in the main street, and there are a wonderful selection of shops and cafes to enjoy. It’s a bright, broad street, full of character, and a great place to sit and watch the world go by while you enjoy a slice of apple strudel. One of the most popular shops is the Swarovski Crystal store. It houses a dazzling display of sparkling creations, but if you really crave the ultimate ‘wow’ factor, then take a trip a few miles out of town to the Swarovski Crystal World.

Even as you approach, you have an overwhelming sense that you’re about to enter somewhere magical. You’re confronted with the face of a giant, laying and looking over a lake, as though he is guarding what lies beyond. As you edge past the giant, and into the cave like structure, you are immediately in a world where everything sparkles. What follows are 18 themed chambers, each blessed with dazzling displays that will have you struggling for endless superlatives. Marilyn Monroe’s dress, Elton John’s piano, a crystal dome, and an ice passage where it’s really snowing are just some of the mesmerising sights. No words will adequately convey the feeling of touring these chambers, so add it to your bucket list and see for yourself.

While you’re out of the main town, take a trip to the imposing, white castle of Ambras. Built In the 16th Century, it was the seat of power for the Counts of Andrechs, and closely associated with Archduke Ferdinand II. It is one of the most popular attractions in the Tyrol, and with good reason. Ferdinand was a prominent art collector, and the lower castle was built to house his collections. The Chamber of Art and Wonders is a delight, with all manner of intriguing, mystifying, rare, unique and curious items. It claims the title of being the world’s first museum. The main castle is picturesque, especially the inner courtyard, and surrounded by magnificent gardens that offer great views over the valley.

If you’re planning on visiting a few places during your stay –and you should – then buy an ‘Innsbruck Card’ from the tourist office (or other outlets around the town. This will not only get

you in to all the main places of interest, but also give you free travel on the town’s very efficient network of trams and busses.

Once you have a taste for it, Innsbruck is somewhere you’ll want to return to more than once, for its warm and inclusive welcome, and simply because there is just so much to see and do. There is a convenient airport on the outskirts of town, so you don’t have to wait until you’re driving past either.

Where to Stay:

The Hotel Faktorei is a beautifully converted 15th Century town house, that is now a well designed boutique hotel. It faces directly onto the river, just a few minutes from the Old Town centre, and the 12 individually designed rooms carefully combine modern and historic architecture.

In a town where parking isn’t easy, the fact that the hotel offers private, secure parking is a big plus if you are on a driving stopover.

They have friendly, helpful, English speaking staff, and we need to give a special mention to the gorgeous, individually cooked breakfasts – all made with organic, seasonal, locally sourced ingredients.

Useful Info:

Innsbruck Tourist Board: https://www.innsbruck.info/en/

Innsbruck Card : https://www.innsbruck.info/en/see-and-experience/innsbruck-cards.html

Ambras Castle: https://www.schlossambras-innsbruck.at/