no 2 oaxen classics blossoming delicacies the crazy sea urchin man the interior
the farm • the wine • the people
WELCOME TO OUR GREEN OASIS
editorial
SWEET HARVEST TIME
T
wenty-one years have passed since we started our own small vegetable garden next to the restaurant out on the island of Oaxen. Naturally, we maintained our interest in local and home-produced food when we moved into town three years ago. The small vegetable garden has now been replaced by a significantly larger plot, our very own Oaxen Farm. In this lush oasis a few kilometres from the restaurant, we have spent the year small-scale farming and growing lots of interesting vegetables, herbs and root vegetables that are now important constituents in our food creations. Do not miss the article further on in this issue where our talented gardener and chef Emil talks about the previous growing season.
The philosophy and the love of the cre-
ative process and the sustainable and ethically produced raw ingredients, are integral to what we do. We never cease to marvel at the diversity of species that can be found here just outside our door. In addition to the crops from Oaxen Farm, we have, as in all seasons, gone out into the woods and fields with a focus on discovering new plants and flavours. Autumn’s abundance of delicious vegetables, mushrooms, fruits and berries is pure bliss for us striving to avoid unnecessary transportation and to reduce the impact on the environment. The range of natural and organic ingredients is the best imaginable at this time of year. And much of what you enjoy when you visit our restaurant has actually
grown and flourished here on Djurgården, or in the immediate vicinity of the city.
As the autumn storms
roll in and the sea temperature falls, another treasure chest opens. During the cold winter months, fish and shellfish taste better than at any other time of the year. A real champion of the delicacies of the sea is the mad Scotsman Roderick Sloan, who delivers sea urchins and clams to us at Oaxen Krog & Slip. Read about him and Susanne Grefberg, who delivers delicacies from Gotland, as well as other interesting articles in this second issue of the Oaxen magazine.
you are one of our treasured frequent guests or just visiting us for the first time, we want to ensure that you have as genuine an experience as possible in all respects. An experience that you will remember and that will stay with you for a long time. In the magazine you are currently holding, we want to give you an insight into our life’s work and our passion through inspiring stories and personal portraits. Enjoy!
Regardless of whether
Agneta Green & Magnus Ek and all their staff
Follow Oaxen Farm on Instagram
Those of you who are interested in following our horticultural endeavours and the journey our vegetables make from farm to table, should definitely check out #oaxenfarm on Instagram or watch our videos at oaxen.com/oaxen-farm/.
PRODUCED BY: GLORY DAYS • EDITOR: PÅL JOHANSSON • PROJECT MANAGER: MARTINA CISSIG • ART DIRECTOR: LOVE ENEROTH • EDITORIAL PHOTOS: ERIK OLSSON, LINNEA LINDBLAD
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BLOSSOMING DELICACIES FROM GOTLAND
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ust outside the small village of Lokrume, in northern Gotland, you will find Grefsta farm, where Susanne Grefberg has specialized in the cultivation of edible flowers and plants for the past 15 years. Today she has about 130 different varieties of flowers in her range, several of which we serve in our dishes. In addition to flowers, she also cultivates herbs, shoots, buds, berries and fruit on her farm, which grow wild, as well as in greenhouses and out in the open.
Grefsta, in its current guise, originates from Susanne’s long fascination for the Gotland countryside and all its colours, smells and flavours. Previously, she worked with plants purely for decoration, and taking the step to becoming a supplier of flowering delicacies was a natural progression. With the new business focus, many new ideas were born, as well as the challenge of marketing the delicacies from Gotland’s natural larder to top restaurants.
– When we first told people about the island, there were few people who knew about it. However, after a few years the first crime novel from Gotland was published and more people could relate to the landscape here, albeit with bloody overtones. Now, products from Gotland are very reputable and sought after by a large number of chefs. Since spring 2016, our products can also be purchased from a wholesaler in Stockholm. Naturally, the aim is to deliver as much of the produce as possible freshly harvested. Every day is unique, and as most of the produce is grown outdoors, the work is very much dictated by the weather. – In the summer, the best time to pick is in the evenings when it is cooler but still dry, as wet plants are more perishable. On Gotland, the summer lasts well into October, so many plants, including herbs, are still growing then. Two of the favourites this autumn are all the succulent berries and our fabulous truffles.
T e x t: linnea lindblad
Some of the delicacies from Gotland’s natural larder. Pickled plums, rose hips, sloes and rose mint.
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THIS IS OAXEN KROG & SLIP The genuine philosophy of sustainability, the instinctive feeling for both produce and interior décor, combined with personal commitment, right down to the smallest detail, permeates the entire business. Together Magnus Ek and Agneta Green have created a restaurant that has resonated around the world. Welcome to Oaxen Krog & Slip. Oaxen Slip Our bistro, Oaxen Slip, is suffused with the history and legacy
of the boat building industry from a time long past. In the restaurant, with its magical natural light from the panoramic windows, beautiful hanging boats and walls of corrugated iron, we serve our own interpretation of Scandinavian bistro food. Delicious and uncomplicated dishes to be shared with the people you love. A popular venue for leisurely lunches, cosy brunches or pleasant evening dinners. Regular tables are supplemented with community tables for one or more parties and drop-in seats at the bar for the more spontaneous guest.
Oaxen Krog The pleasantly peaceful Oaxen Krog, wholeheartedly
invites you to an unforgettable culinary experience in a secluded setting. This is where we preserve the origins and the philosophy of life on the island. We seek out and select our unique produce from our immediate neighbourhood to the outer limits of the Nordic region. High demands are placed on quality, taste, sustainable agriculture and humane animal husbandry. Playful and delicious compositions are created from the distinctive character and soul of the raw ingredients, which together with the drink and the setting provide an experience to remember.
A GASTRONOMIC TIMELINE
1990 Magnus Ek and Agneta Green’s shared journey
towards the gastronomic heights and top echelons of the restaurant world begins in Skåne, where their paths cross for the first time.
1994 The couple take over the summer restaurant
Oaxen Skärgårdskrog on Oaxen island outside Mörkö in Stockholm’s southern archipelago. They started to experiment at an early stage with the produce they found on the island.
2006 Oaxen’s good reputation spreads beyond
Sweden’s borders and the restaurant makes it on to the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, something they achieve five years in a row.
2008 The 35 meter long and 140 tonne
riverboat Prince van Orangiën becomes part of the business and the transformation from a home to a private hotel begins.
photo: mattias nilsson
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Hotel Prince van Orangiën As spring approaches, we welcome all guests on board our charming hotel boat Prince van Orangiën, on the other side of Beckholmssund. ”The Prince” was built in 1935 in Vahali te Gendt in The Netherlands and was originally the home of a shipowner that sailed around Europe with his dredging fleet. As the fourth owners, we have transformed the impeccably maintained vessel from a home to a unique and romantic small hotel. Here you will find individually decorated cabins with Carpe Diem beds, period features and materials such as oak, ebony, rosewood, Belgian slate and five kinds of marble with gold leaf. Prince van Orangiën is open April to October.
Oaxen Bakgård The Club Room
The cherry on the cake is Oaxen Bakgård (Oaxen
One floor up you will find the tastefully decorated club room with a mag-
nificent view of Saltsjön and the heights of Södermalm in the distance. The perfect dining room for those who are looking for some privacy, such as for business dinners, brunch with friends, an intimate wedding reception or a birthday celebration. The club room, which seats 14 people, is equipped with all the technology and facilities you may need for your business meeting or conference. Contact us and we will tailor the perfect event to suit your preferences.
2010-2011 After 17 years , their time out on the
island comes to an end and the restaurateurs head for a more central location in downtown Stockholm, which will enable year-round operations.
Backyard), which can pop up anywhere and at any time throughout the year. Sometimes you will find the Backyard on our terrace, where we fire up the wood burning oven and fill it with mouthwatering pizzas. Combined with cool drinks, lapping waves and good company, these evenings are not to be missed. As mentioned, Oaxen Bakgård can make a guest appearance where and when you least expect it – so keep an eye out for the next opportunity.
2013 The newly constructed period building in Nya Djurgårds-
varvet (Shipyard) is ready for occupancy, now with the addition of the Slip bistro. This year, Oaxen Krog & Slip receives Gulddraken (The Golden Dragon Award), as well as the prize for the Business Pub of the Year.
2011 On October 1, the last meal on the island is served. In December, the speciality grocer’s shop Oaxen Skafferi (Pantry) opens at Mariatorget, selling items such as homemade cured meats as well as hung and tenderized meat.
2014 On March 12, Oaxen Krog gets its first star in
the Michelin Guide and Oaxen Slip gets a BiB Gourmand. The building is nominated for the Stockholm Building of the Year Award and Oaxen Krog receives a new Gulddrake.
2015 Oaxen Krog is honoured
with its second Michelin star, something we are extremely proud of and which we also managed to maintain in 2016.
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WELCOME TO OUR GREEN OASIS
locally produced
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t e x t: på l j o h a n s s o n p o r t r a i t: L i n n e a l i n d b l a d farm photos: Erik Olsson
F
or a year now, Emil Grönlund has not only been a chef at Oaxen Krog & Slip, he is also our very own gardener. In total, during the spring and summer, he has spent 300 hours working on the 1,500 square meter Oaxen Farm, a few kilometres from the restaurant. – I have been interested in plants and cultivation since I was little, says Emil who four years ago got a small allotment in Kista with some friends. his genuine interest, Emil has also expanded the knowledge he obtained at Rosendal’s organic gardening course. The course spanned an entire growing season, ten months, and gave an introduction to organic and biodynamic cultivation. This is also the fundamental idea behind Oaxen Farm - organically and sustainably grown vegetables and herbs. – You have to have a long-term mindset, understand the cycle of the seasons and structure the work in the same way as on an actual small farm. We want to create organic cultivation completely free from pesticides, fertilizers and other toxins. Therefore, after a lot of planning and help from gardening experts, we have developed a schedule where we work according to a six-year growing cycle.
In addition to
Emil talks about the importance of crop cultivation and green manure in order to keep the soil fertile and grow the best possible crops. As different plants provide the soil with nutrients or deplete it of them, it is never good to cultivate one type of plant in the same place for several years. – For example, cabbage absorbs a lot of the nutrients from the soil, while beans have roots that bind nitrogen in the soil. So you have to know which crops to grow where, in order to get the best results and healthy, lush plants and vegetables that are full of flavour. There is no doubt that there has been a lot to do on Oaxen Farm over the years. When they started to lease the land two years ago, the site had lain fallow since the 1970s. It was overgrown and tractors and rotavators were needed in order for the 88 cultivation beds to take shape. After discussions and experimentation, they have found out which plants they want to work with. – We try to work with older Swedish varieties and this year we have cultivated
50 different vegetables and herbs. Our brassicas are something that have really succeeded. I am particularly proud of our sea kale, a perennial plant that normally grows wild and is quite difficult to cultivate. We have managed to grow about 15 plants and it will be interesting to see how they survive the winter. The first tender shoots that appear in the spring are used as white asparagus and taste incredible. has also led to inspiring and stimulating challenges for the chefs in the kitchen. – It is easy to sow and plant, but more difficult to manage and make full use of the crops. At one time, we found ourselves with an abundance of broad beans that we had to find a use for. The result was a delicious soy sauce with fermented beans and a broad bean flour, which we used to bake bread. In these situations, we chefs really get an outlet for our creativity and inventiveness, which is great fun.
Harvest time. Fresh broad beans, black radish and onions from Oaxen Farm.
Our own cultivation
summer is over, there is still a lot of work to be done. The last of the vegetables have to be harvested, the garlic has to be planted and the Farm has to be made ready for the winter. Cabbages, which can handle the cold and snow and also become milder and tastier, remain in the ground and are harvested as needed. And in just a few months, the 2017 growing season will begin.
Even though the
Meet Joakim, the heavy metal chef You usually find Joakim Lundblad in the
kitchen at Oaxen Slip, where he has been working as a chef for the past two years. He knew that the profession was his calling when he was just a child, as he spent a lot of time with his mother and grandmother cooking in the kitchen. He practised and worked towards his goal without any chef training after upper-secondary school, thanks to his culinary genes. – Food is my main interest and being able to work with it is wonderful. The best thing about my job is that no day is ever the same. It may sound like a cliché, but it really is like that. Music is his other great interest and as a former drummer he often goes to punk and heavy metal concerts. At home with his girlfriend, he enjoys vegetarian cooking and the flavours of the Middle East.
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AGNETA’S RETRO SHOW
text & photo: Linnea Lindblad
The Club Room These are Caryngo
chairs and were designed in 1955 by furniture designers Yngve Ekström and Carl Malmsten. Both of whom were very prominent in Swedish interior design during the first half of the 1900s. The chairs were found by Agneta at Jackson Antik in Stockholm.
The subdued and cosy lighting in the club room comes from the lamps designed by the Italian glass artist Paolo Venini. He was born in 1896 and was a leading figure in the production of Murano glass, which was manufactured on the island of Murano outside Venice. They are called onion lamps because of their shape and were purchased at Jackson Antik in Stockholm.
I
t was important for Agneta and Magnus to create a restaurant and hotel setting that was suffused with authenticity, and at the same time blended in with the industrial origins of the premises. When you are in Oaxen’s premises, you are surrounded by many retro finds, mostly of Scandinavian design, which Agneta has collected over the years.
– I am very fond of recycling and want to extend the lives of things. It was important to us that the restaurant should not feel new, which is why we were keen to add vintage furniture and details to the interior design. Join us for a retro tour around Oaxen Slip, Oaxen Krog, the Club Room and on board the historic hotel boat Prince van Orangiën.
interior
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oaxen Krog Agneta and Magnus found the chairs by chance when they were passing Wigerdals värld, an antiques dealer on Södermalm, two years before the opening. The old oak chairs is named Florida, designed and made by Sigge Wigell in Småland in the 1950s. They had previously been used in a coffee shop on the west coast. In their new guise they formed the basis for the design of the rest of the dining room. – When we found these chairs, we decided to buy them at once and there happened to be 32 of them. The dining table has a different story. Agneta found an unsigned table from the 1960s at Bukowski’s auction house, which was bought to serve as a model for the table that was eventually made in oak by the local carpentry workshop, Linjon, here in New Djurgården Shipyard. The original table was put to good use in the office instead. The tables are always decorated
with vases by the Swedish ceramist and designer Carl-Harry Stålhane. He began his career as a teenager in 1939 and is especially known for his soft, modern shapes and hare’s fur glaze. – I discovered Carl-Harry Stålhane’s vases on Tradera a few years ago, all of them were from the 1950s. I had previously bought Stålhane’s coffee cups, Entré, which are also in the dining room. – The silverware is also vintage, though it is still being produced today – Rosenholm from GAB, now Gense. The cutlery we bought is dated between 1920-1970, and we also have two wine coolers from the 1930s, by the same manufacturer.
oaxen Slip The cutlery at Oaxen Slip is from the Thebe range designed by the Swedish designer Folke Arström. They are a classic and timeless design with strict and clean lines, inspired by ancient Egypt. The range was reintroduced in 2014 to celebrate this popular design classic, but the ones we have here are all from the 1950s. – That time I nearly cleaned out Tradera, buying all the cutlery I could possibly find. It took some effort, but I am glad that I had the patience.
Prince Van Orangiën The fixed interior on board the hotel boat Prince Van Orangiën is original dating from 1935. In the details that have been added, Agneta went for a style that partly contrasts with the dark wood interior, but also preserves the authentic and genuine environment on board. The chairs in cabins 2,3 and 4
were designed in 1902 by the Dane Robert Wengler, a rattan design pioneer. These were among the very first purchases Agneta made many years ago while out on Oaxen island. – I came across five of them that we first started to use when we bought the ship in 2008. They match the interior perfectly, as it has the same dark tones.
The shell lamps in the Captain’s cabin are from the 1920s and were manufactured by the British company Supreme Lights. Agneta found these bargains on one of her shopping trips to England.
The theatre seats took up residence in Oaxen Slip after
trips to Amsterdam and London to get inspiration, which is where Agneta got the idea. These are in their original condition from the 1920s, purchased at an antique shop in London. – We needed to find a solution that would provide good access and plenty of seating. When I found these theatre seats, I knew that they were made for the purpose. Finding a table to match the theatre seats was another challenge. In the end, Agneta found these tables at an antique fair in Älvsjö. They had been used as school desks in Småland in the 1930–1940s. If you look closely at the worn linoleum surfaces, you can see the occasional ink stain from a bygone era.
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OUR WINE PHILOSOPHY
t e x t: L i n n e a l i n d b l a d
Fredriks Three autumn wines Sherry – preferably a mature Amontillado.
Wines from the Rhône Valley – soft,
spicy and robust red wines from the Syrah grape.
Port wine – the sweet fortified wine
that is perfect for rounding off a meal.
wine & spirit
wine & spirit
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The gilt-edged hotel If you are on the lookout for a
hotel stay with that little bit extra, you should take a look at the website, thehotelcollector.com. The website presents a few carefully selected small personally-styled hotels throughout Sweden, including our own hotel boat Prince van Orangiën. A common feature of the facilities highlighted is the friendly setting and authentic atmosphere that together create a unique, memorable hotel experience. The Hotel Collector’s Guide will be your guide in your search for unique hotel experiences, and help you find those little gems that are off the beaten track. Quite simply, it is intended for those looking for an experience rather than overnight accommodation.
than a thousand wines in the wine cellar at Oaxen Krog, four to five wines at a time are included in the wine package. It is constantly updated and carefully coordinated with the restaurant menu. The wines are replaced frequently whenever a dish or ingredient on the menu is being replaced. – Our focus is to offer a unique wine package for the perfect experience. We place great emphasis on selecting wines for our tasting menus. Many restaurants have more wines in their packages, but we feel there is a purpose in drinking the same wine with several different dishes. This enables the guest to better experience how the flavours change. Instead of us telling you what it should taste like, you get the chance to think about it and decide for yourself, which ultimately results in a more meaningful experience.
Among the more
Foto: Mattias Nilsson
A
beautifully composed meal requires a carefully chosen wine. Therefore, the winemakers we choose to work with are an essential factor in determining your overall experience with us. In this issue, we take a closer look at the wine cellar with Fredrik Horn, the restaurant manager at Oaxen Krog. Here you will find wines exclusively of European origin from France, Italy, Spain, Germany and Austria. All of these countries have a long tradition of wine-making, which for us is a prerequisite for a good product. – A good winemaker has extensive experience, and cares deeply about the craft and the provenance of their wines. The grape must be typical for the region and as wine is an agricultural product, it is important that these key flavour components are clearly recognisable in the wine. That is precisely what we want to offer our guests, says restaurant manager Fredrik Horn.
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THE CRAZY SEA URCHIN MAN
t e x t: L i n n e a L i n d b l a d photo: erik olsson
O
n the northernmost shores of Norway, close to the Arctic lies the small community of Nordskott and The Arctic Caviar Company. Here Roderick Sloan, also known as the mad Scot, has fished for marine delicacies for over a decade. The sea urchins, mahogany clams, razor clams and soft-shell clams you enjoy when you visit us at Oaxen Krog are all hand-picked from here.
supplier
when a Scotsman moved to Norway for the sake of love. Roderick Sloan had also been introduced to one of the ocean’s most prickly delicacies, sea urchins. At the time he was unaware that his two passions, for food and diving, would become his career, despite a bumpy start. – I came across sea urchins through my brother-in-law. He knew I was a diver and a chef and saw the potential in this area. A few years ago he switched careers, but I am still the crazy sea urchin man. I have a lot to thank my wife for. Were it not for her, I would never have answered that call from René Redzepi and would have become an engineer instead, how boring!
It all started
and owner of the distinguished Michelin star restaurant Noma, wanted Roderick to supply sea urchins for his restaurant. His career took a new turn and he never did pursue his engineering studies. Since then, he has provided the Nordic region’s most reputable restaurants with the ocean’s treasures, and has a workday without any fixed routines. – When you live where I do and do what I do, there is no such thing as a ”typical day”. We do not work on a nine to five or Monday to Friday basis.
The star chef
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The weather plays a major role in determining when I can and cannot fish. On the other hand, if a restaurateur calls on Sunday and wants fresh shellfish for the next morning, I will go out and get them. With hand-picked fishing, the quality of the fish is carefully controlled. Winter is considered to be the high season for shellfish, as they taste better than at any other time of year. – I have lived in Norway for many years now and the long dark winters do not get any easier, but on the other hand, that is when the shellfish are at their best, so you just have to grin and bear it! I would not trade it for anything, despite the challenges.
Sea urchins with their creamy texture and rich flavour were the gateway to the other clams he fishes today. That includes the mahogany clam, which has the longest life span in the world. The oldest that was found turned out to be over 400 years old. – Right now, I love diving for mahogany clams. They are the underwater version of potatoes. I also love the balance of living up north in the isolated wilderness and travelling around the world and educating people about the sea.
The festival with flavours from all around the world Sharing a meal is the most natural way for people from different cultures to meet. That was the starting point for Oaxen Krog & Slip and the Stockholm Stadsmission food and integration festival, Folkfest, which was held in Nya Djurgårdsvarvet on September 16-17. Over two full days, visitors enjoyed flavours from all around the world where women from a variety of countries presented their cuisine and food culture. The team of cooks, who originated from places such as Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, Latin America and the Middle East, offered their culinary favourites and delicacies. The entire surplus was donated to the Stadsmissionen enterprise Källan in Fisksätra and their work with integration. – Our industry is very international in nature and therefore has the potential to provide employment for many women and men who have recently arrived in Sweden. This is a tremendous resource that we think Sweden should take advantage of, says Michelle Palmstierna, Operations Manager at Oaxen Krog & Slip, who in conjunction with Agneta Green is initiator of the Folkfest concept.
FOUR OAXEN CLASSICS
gastronomy
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t e x t: på l j o h a n s s o n photo: magnus ek
O
ver the years, many dishes have passed from the pots and pans in our kitchen and out onto your plates. Some dishes are culinary fads that could only be enjoyed for limited periods, while others have become more enduring features on the menu. Several of the dishes in the Oaxen Slip have become popular favourites – Oaxen classics that you really cannot get enough of. Here are some of them.
Grilled celeriac baked in whey with bleak roe and chives (Oaxen Slip)
A starter that is as simple as it is delicious. We start by barbecuing the celeriac before baking it in the oven with whey that has been fermenting at room temperature for one week. Before the soured whey is poured over the chopped celeriac, we make a delicious, creamy sauce with it. It is served with a dollop of bleak roe from Kalix and finely chopped chives.
Pilsner rye bread (Oaxen Krog) A favourite that has been around since our time on the island, this dark rye bread is cooked in a cast-iron pan for a caramelised touch. By popular request, here is the coveted recipe for this delicious creation to cook and enjoy with dinner this autumn and winter. Keep in mind that this recipe is for a very large quantity, so one-fifth of the recipe would be sufficient for home use. Unless of course you are going to throw a Swedish rye bread party.
Ingredients: 16 dl yoghurt 8 dl beer (lager, low-alcohol beer) 2 tablespoons burnt sugar 10 tablespoons bicarbonate of soda 16 dl RYE flour 4 teaspoons salt 16 dl golden syrup
Topside steak tartare with mustard mayonnaise, sour cream and sourdough croutons (Oaxen Slip)
Steak tartare Oaxen style. Swedish topside beef is roughly ground and seasoned with salt and pepper. It is served with mayonnaise seasoned with Dijon mustard and a sour cream made of cream that has been left out at room temperature and then mixed sour milk and salt. It is topped with sourdough croutons to give the dish a little crispiness.
Whole, grilled turbot with potatoes, horseradish and brown butter (Oaxen Slip)
A popular and spectacular dish to enjoy in the company of good friends. A threekilo turbot is grilled on the bone and served with freshly grated horseradish, brown butter and boiled potatoes. Simple, pure flavours that together form an unbeatable combination.
Method:
Mix all the ingredients together to form a smooth dough and then pour it into one or more greased baking tins. Bake in the oven at 184 degrees Celsius until the bread has an inner temperature of 96 degrees Celsius. Take the time to enjoy the aromatic smell of fresh bread that really melts in your mouth.
Meet Roji the go-to guy Roji Thomas is Oaxen Krog & Slip’s invaluable factotum, our own handyman. In addition to household chores like cleaning, laundry and dishwashing, he helps out with repairs and fixing electronics. Roji originally comes from southern India, where he had his own company in the construction industry. He came to Sweden via Switzerland, where he studied Hotel Management. So the Nordic winters were not a complete shock when he moved here with his wife and two children four years ago. – I still prefer the spring and summer to the cold and wind of winter. I will probably never get used to that. In his spare time he is a man of many talents. He runs a company that develops websites and for the past year has been producing travel documentaries from his native country of India. He has a great interest in food and for dinner at the weekends he likes to cook a moderately spicy southern Indian stew with a variety of beans, carrots and coconut milk. A newly discovered interest is fly fishing, which he tried out for the first time in Sweden.
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