2012_september_inspiredbeauty

Autumn Winter 2012

REPORT 6 ECO HEDONISM

MOOD BOARD

Eco Hedonism combines sustainability with the mys?cal and hedonis?c. It is all about craBing a new luxury in parallel with nature by mixing organic, synthe?c and engineered elements to form contemporary hybrids.

NATURE LUXE AESTHETICS

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This fundamentally means raw+luxury, or raw+performance, and a new breed of products will capture these extremes and contradicLons.

The catwalk design for the most recent Lanvin runway show was a great example; A weeping willow tree provided the backdrop, with lighLng and smoke creaLng an eerie, foggy atmosphere that spoke of nature and a luxe environment.

An interesLng beauty concept is the proposed FloaLng Gardens Spa. Set to be built this year near Amsterdam’s city centre, the FloaLng Gardens Spa is a sustainable spa and wellness development.

Originally developed by Studio Noach founders Kizito Musampa and Michel Kreuger, together with Dutch architect Anne Holtrop, the floaLng concept features a hi-­‐tech sustainable climate system and is made from GreenRexwall, a form of recycled polystyrene. The exterior walls are covered in an insulaLng layer of plants, created by verLcal garden expert Patrick Blanc, which aids the conversion of CO2, meaning it can literally "breathe" oxygen. The island plans to include a bu[erfly habitat. www.studionoach.nl www.anneholtrop.nl www.ver?calgardenpatrickblanc.com

MOOD BOARD

HAIR STYLE

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In the next 18 months, we expect to see curly hair come through most strongly in terms of hairstyling. Adding texture and shape, curls with a formed shape rather than so ^ and loose will be key. InnovaLve styling products will be important for achieving these glossy, formed waves.

Dry shampoo, for instance, will be replaced with serum-­‐based hair products. Expect to see a revival of electrical hair tools such as heated curling tongs and new tools such as rotaLng barrel hairdryers.

For updo hairstyling, autumn/winter 2012/13 will focus on effortless and organically-­‐formed buns and wraps. For example, we are inspired by stylists at the recent Antonio Marras runway show who opted for a romanLc style where hair was pinned into one dishevelled roll. Flyaway hair pieces were le^ to fall around the roll.

We also expect to see men with curly hair experimenLng with more direcLonal ways to wear it. Curls will be placed at the front of the head, creaLng an effect almost like a fringe, while the back and sides are le^ short.

Great products will be important to enhance hair shape, definiLon and hold.

The brushed-­‐forward shape will also be a key style for men with straight hair. Hair will be layered with long and short lengths to form a heavy finish at the front. The most commercial look will focus on shorter layers on the front teamed with a dry texture and plenty of movement.

HAIR COLOUR

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Nature-­‐inspired colours will influence hair colours in the Eco Hedonism trend with brune[es and darkest reds more of a focus than blond.

We will start to see deep, earthy brown tones as direcLona,l and techniques will focus on layering mulLple colours to create an intense, mulL-­‐tonal effect. Colour is rich, healthy and three-­‐dimensional.

Expect to see consumers returning to professional salons for colouring treatments in the next 18 months, as colour should look expensive and luxurious. Wavy hair will be a great way to show off the different tones.

We will however start to see warmer blond tones emerging, both for men and women, and this will focus on cloudy light browns or sandy colours in smoky tones – an update to the sun-­‐bleached blonds we are seeing right now.

The blue undertone reds that are so popular right now will so^en, updated with a more natural bronze tone. Crimson reds and deep gingers will offer a more direcLonal look, however, and auburn shades will be key, adding low-­‐lights to brune[e hair.

Eye Makeup

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By autumn/winter 2012/13 we will start to see a growing trend for earthy, autumnal tones, which will be parLcularly important for eye colours. Expect to see green hues ranging from verdant and khaki to sharp lime (for the more daring consumer) and vibrant olive appearing on the eyes.

Eye colour should be worn with two or three colours blended together, while the rest of the face is le^ natural. For a more commercially-­‐wearable look, line eyes with a green pencil. This look will make a good alternaLve to the classic black eyeliner.

The bronze tones that are popular now will progress into autumn/winter 2012/13, but will be updated with a reddish orange Lnt for a hazy look. Powder eyeshadows with a metallic sheen will be important, replacing the creamy textures we are seeing now for that luxe-­‐but-­‐natural look. www.aveda.com www.maybelline.com

NAILS

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New nailpolishes will start to innovate with new ingredients, instead of extreme nail-­‐art finishes, and we forecast a strong return to solid block nail colours.

In Hyperculture, we menLoned the use of gold ingredients in skincare products and here we see gold begin to filter through to nail colours. We love Rococo’s Gold Leaf Nail Varnish, which is made from 24ct gold. Again, it's all about acheiving a luxury edge to more natural colours and finishes.

We’re also seeing a growth in the market for non-­‐toxic nail colours, free from harmful chemicals. The Organic Pharmacy recently introduced its new non-­‐toxic nail colour collecLon. Comprising 29 shades, the formulas do not contain DBP, formaldehyde and toluene, which are usually found in nail varnishes. www.spacenk.com www.theorganicpharmacy.com

LIPS: BROWN-­‐TONED REDS

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As we move into autumn/winter 2012/13, bright lip colours will start to get much darker. Reds will deepen into rich cranberry hues with a mahogany or brown undertone. The trend for ma[ lip textures will conLnue, replacing glossy or sheer textures. Colour is strong, punchy and highly-­‐pigmented.

We will also begin to see natural cosmeLcs brands bringing out be[er natural colour formulaLons with stronger pigments and longer-­‐lasLng finishes.

Aveda’s ecologically-­‐sound cosmeLcs line is made of natural materials. The brand’s latest line, Uruku make-­‐up, has been produced in collaboraLon with the Yawanawa tribe in Brazil. The Uruku Color Gloss features 100% plant and mineral-­‐derived colour and is infused with organic oils and bu[ers to help moisturise the lips. All the products also come in environmentally-­‐friendly packaging.

Bare Minerals’ innovaLve Pre[y Amazing Lipcolor is infused with minerals and comes in eight shades, ranging from strawberry and coral pink tones through to bright petal pink and vibrant red. The creamy texture promises to deliver a strong velveteen colour with a "comfortable, longwearing finish". www.aveda.com www.bareescentuals.com

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There is also a growing trend for highly sophisLcated natural products. Referred to as "hybrid naturals", brands will start to incorporate natural ingredients produced in a technologically-­‐advanced way or combined with "scienLfic boosters" that improve their effecLveness.

Mineral make-­‐up brand Bare Minerals launched its first skincare line comprising six products made with groundbreaking ingredients. It features Bare Minerals' 100% Rare Minerals AcLve Soil Complex, a blend of highly beneficial macro and micro minerals extracted from mineral-­‐rich soil. These minerals are said to provide skin-­‐ renewing benefits, such as delivering faster cell turnover, visibly smaller pores, increased luminosity and so^er, smoother, younger-­‐looking and more-­‐energised skin. This complex is also high in anLoxidants to protect skin against free radicals. All products are formulated without syntheLc fragrances, arLficial oils and parabens.

Dr Andrew Weil for Origins Mega-­‐Mushroom Skin Relief line features Dr Weil’s Signature Six ingredients, including hypsizygus ulmarius and cordyceps plus reishi mushroom and lily bulb extracts to promote healthier skin.

Crème de la Mer’s latest product, The Radiant Serum, uses laminaria saccharina, a brown algae, to Lghten pores and smooth skin texture. This potent illuminaLng treatment serum also includes a brightening ferment to give skin luminosity and a blue algae life ferment to renew skin’s elasLcity.

Developed by the Dead Sea Laboratories, internaLonal skincare brand Ahava launched its first make-­‐up line last year, formulated with minerals and algae. Containing only natural minerals and pigments, the collecLon comprises four cosmeLc products: Dead Sea Algae Rich FoundaLon, Dead Sea Algae Light FoundaLon, Dead Sea Algae Powder Compact and Make-­‐Up Loose Powder