Goa Streets - Issue 21 by Goa Streets

Ianos : Living it up • pg 3

Mango scam • pg 10

Shigmo

A riot of colour

Calangute unplugged • pg 12

s Plu ete pl / com event d/ e foo ghtlif ni ide gu

Easter in Goa 17 • Goan Art in Macau 18 • Weaver’s last sigh 22

Parish Churches of Goa Goa’s whitewashed parish churches stand tall in their NeoRoman grandeur, most of them a few centuries old. Here are some architectural gems from villages and cities all over Goa.

ALDONA, Bardez - St. Thomas the Apostle

CORLIM, Tiswadi - St. John the Eloquent

(Photographs by Pantaleao Fernandes)

BADEM, Bardez - Our Lady of Miracles

GOA VELHA, Tiswadi - St. Andrew the Apostle CHICALIM, Mormugão - St. Francis Xavier ANJUNA, Bardez St. Michael the Archangel

AGASAIM, Tiswadi -St. Lawrence the Martyr

CANSAULIM, Mormugão - St. Thomas PANCHWADI, Ponda St. Anthony

COLVA, Salcete Our Lady of Mercy

BENAULIM, Salcete - St. John the Baptist

CURTORIM, Salcete St. Alex

LOUTULIM, Salcete Saviour of the World

NAVELIM, Salcete - Our Lady of the Rosary CHANDOR, Salcete Our Lady of Bethlehem

ASSOLNA, Salcete - Our Lady, Queen of Martyrs

MARGÃO, Salcete Holy Spirit

BHATPALE, Canacona St. Francis Xavier

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Ladies Night

With DJs Tanya & Sunil on Acoutics At The Park on Holiday beach, Calangute @ 8 pm +919823827828/+918322267600

Thursday with The Streetlight People At Mix Bar & Grill, Arpora @ 8 pm +919223415333

Baga Chic:

Photographs by Arun Pavaratty

Mar 28

Living it up at Ianos

Thursday Night Live

@ Sol Bar and Restaurant Jazz at its best with Gerold Heitbaum and Smoking Chutney featuring Gerold Heitbaum (guitar), Chrystal Farrell (vocals), Benoy Rai (guitar), Sancho Menezes (keyboards), Colin D’Cruz (bass) & Bosco D’Souza (drums) At The Sofala, Bhattiwaddo, Nerul @ 8 pm to 11.30 pm +918550919222.

The name Ianos is Greek in origin,being the God of all beginnings and transitions.

Tranquil Thursday

With Subhan Shah At Casino Carnival, Salcette @ 8 pm +918322871303

Thursday Night

With DJ Soft Harmony At Fiplees Restaurant, Benaulim @ 8 pm +919822153545

Silent Disco

With DJs Mr.E & Flakey At Alpha Bar, Canacona @ 8.30 pm +919823593484

View of the psychedelic interiors at Ianos

Juno Reactor- Live in Concert At Hill Top, Vagator @ 7 pm +9183223952591

Mar 29

Live & Wired

With Axel At L’Orange Restaurant & Events, Candolim @ 8 pm +919823291413

Freaky Friday

With DJ Spike At White House Restaurant & Bar, Dona Paula @ 8 pm +918322453839

Friday Blast

With DJs Pinaki, Lorenz & Alistair At Club Cabana, Arpora @ 8 pm +919158257000

Ladies Night

With The Valentinos, DJ Ashton & VDJ LRF At down The Road, Panjim @ 8 pm +918087649050

Friday Night Live

With Static Age At Clube Harmonia de Margao, Margao @ 8 pm +918322714818

Frisky Fridays

With DJ Rinton At SinQ beach club, Candolim @ 8 pm +919552100700

By Goa Streets

onsidering that Goa is the undisputed party capital of India, and that Baga is the undisputed party capital of Goa, one would expect a surplus of sleek and stylish upscale nightspots. Surprisingly, however, there aren’t that many around. For this reason, Ianos, the newest party hotspot in Baga, is a particularly noteworthy addition to the northern beach belt’s after-dark scene. Watch out for a looming, white structure on your left as you drive down to Baga from the Calangute junction, with a wide open porch leading to the reception at the entrance. There you will be greeted by the beauty and the beasts – actually a charming hostess and the tough-looking bouncers behind her. Gates open at around 8.30 pm and the cosy, cool, dark interiors welcome you to relax either at the ground level or the premium lounge on the upper level. Entry charges are Rs 1000 per couple, but men can also go there as ‘stags’ by paying the same entry, which gets you unlimited beverages of house brands on the lower level (Editor’s question: what do all you dudes out there think about having to share the ‘stag’ title with animals of various species?). There’s free entry for single ladies or groups of girls with unlimited drinks on the house! Talk about a ladies bar! Sounds like discrimination, but it’s

turn to page 5

music & nightlife | 03 Ianos: living it up

Mar 30

Mar 2

With DJ Jay At Woodbourne resort & Country Club, Nuvem @ 3 pm +919657487431/+918322791001

At Shiva Valley, Anjuna @ 5 pm +918805930568

Easter Pool Party

Saturday Sizzle

With Rainbow Factory At Molly Malone Irish Pub, Mapusa @ 8.30 pm +918322276255

world view | 06

Magical Easter Ball

Obama-Netanhayu love fest

At Woodbourne Country Club, Nuvem +919326103411

Saturday Night Market Party At Boutique House, Arpora @ 6 pm

food | 07 Dining with the Masters

Saturday Nights

With The Swingers At Fantasia no Cantinho de vovo, Panjim @ 8 pm +919822179662

Easter Bash

feature | 10

Featuring DJs Ryan N, Rohan Peddy & Spike Spike At White House Restaurant & Bar, Dona Paula @ 8 pm +918322453839

Counterfeit mangoes

exploration | 12 Calangute unplugged

Mar 31

Easter Party

Featuring DJs Ryan N, Navin, Jay & Kiran At Club Margarita, Colva @ 8 pm +919823259008/+918322789728

Retro Night

With DJ Mauris At Cape Town Cafe, Calangute @ 8 pm +919657593449

what’s on | 13 Everything there is to do

Bollywood Night

cover story | 14

With DJ Spike At White House Restaurant & Bar, Dona Paula @ 8 pm +919822169881/+918322453839

Smooth Sunday

With Kenni At Martin’s Corner, Betalbatim @ 8 pm +918322880413

Shigmo

The Happy Bunny Project

easter feature | 17

Featuring DJs Arnold, Kan-i, Russell and Many Others At Jacksons Beach Cafe, Candolim @ 8 pm +919881654895

The celebrations

Music Fever

arts & entertainment | 18 From Goa to Macau

With Subhan Shah At Casino Carnival, Cavelossim @ 8 pm +918322871303

Digital Jukebox

With Henry At Cafe Mojo pub & Bistro @ 8 pm +918322426666

feature | 21

feature | 22

Marijuana in Goa

Goa’s last weaver

Mar 1

Beach Grind

At Our Shack, Vagator @ 12 pm +919167878311

Ride with us

literature | 23 The Nurse & her Nose

give back | 26 Books for kids

At Cafe Lilliput, Anjuna @ 5 pm +918322274648

Psy Trance Party At UV Bar, Anjuna +919822153440

Trance Party

Karaoke Night

At The Park, Candolim @ 7 pm +918322267600

Mar 3

Trance Party

At 9 Bar, Vagator @ 5 pm +919623102102/+918322273368

Live Music

At German Bakery, Anjuna @ 7.30 pm. +919096058775

Upto Mar 30 Happy Hours

At Cafe Mangii, Panjim @ 11.30 am to 6 pm +919370898848/+918322230773

Upto April 30 Every Monday

Tamarin Restaurant

Rodden & Anselm play acoustic guitar and flute with a popular play list At Tamarin Restaurant, Calangute @ 7.30 pm

Every Sunday

Tamarin Restaurant

“Richard Goes Solo” with his retro 60’s & 70’s set At Tamarin Restaurant, Calangute @ 7.30 pm

Every Thursday

Tamarin Restaurant

Maxie - Bosa Nova and Latin sounds with guitar At Tamarin Restaurant, Calangute @ 7.30 pm

Up to May 25

Saturday Sundown

At Martin’s Corner, Betalbatim @ 8 pm to 11.30 pm +918322880061/+918322880413

Karaoke Night

Hosted by KDJ Pierre At Sweet Chilli, Sinquerim From 8 pm to 12 am +918322479446/+918325625693

Upto May 28

Retro and All Time Hits

With DJ Aggie At Radisson Blu Resort, Cavelossim @ 9 pm +918326726666/+918326726677

Up to May 31

Beer, BBQ & Blues

Veeam & the Highway Stars to perform live. At Sweet Chilli, Sinquerim, Candolim. From 8 pm to 11 pm +918322479446/ +918325625693/ +919890651163/ +919860182932

On-going

Shivers Garden

Restaurant & Sports Bar At Candolim @ 7.30 pm +919860698281 Wed: Bingo Nite Sat: Dance Nite & Live football broadcast Sun: Sunday Roast (2 pm)

Music & Nightlife 5

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Zeebop

Specialized in Sea food At Utorda Beach @ 7.30 pm 0832-2755333 Mon: Frankston one-mand band Tue: jimmy Jazz Wed: Brian Bones Thur: Newton & Nezz Fri: David Boggie Sat: Disco Nite

Fort Aguada Beach Resort At Sinquerim, Candolim @ 7.30 pm +918326645858 Mon: Haydn & Natasha Tue: Mac Dorado Wed: Haydn & Natasha Thur: Flying Colours Fri: Shine on Duo Band Sat: Anslem

Martin’s Corner

Authentic seafood and Goan cuisine along with entertainment with live music every week. At Betalbatim @ 8 pm. +918322880061 Mon: Savio Tue: Bryan Ivor-one man band Wed: Francis Paul Thur: Duo by Savio & In front Fri: Karaoke by Johnny Sat: Shane. Sun: Kenny

Fernando’s Nostalgia

Goan soul in Goan food At Raia @ 7 pm +918322777054/ +918322777098/ +919822103467 Tue: Brian Bones Thur: Evergreens by Cedric Live Fri: Jazz/swing/ Retro by Tania & Andre Sat: Oldies but Goldies by Friendly Brothers Sun: Nostalgic Moods by Saxy Aggie

Night By Night Every Monday Karaoke Night

Retro, Rock n Roll & Old School

With DJ Saby Fernandes spinning Retro, Rock n Roll At Resort Rio, Tambudki, Arpora From 8 pm to 10.30 pm +919552538203/+919011015959

Wednesday Nights

Featuring DJs David and Ashley At Kamaki, Baga @ 7.30 pm +91 9923093408/+918322276520

DJ Roy Yod Live

At Saturdays, Varca @ 9.30 pm to 1 am +918326695066/+918326695025

Every Thursday Rock n Roll

Relive some of the best moments of Rock n Roll At Sweet Chilli, Sinquerim @ 7.30 pm +91 9820820254

Thursday Grill and Games Music, games & barbeque At Soul Souffle, Verna @ 7 pm to 10 pm 2782100, +91 9764694321

Thursday – Go Retro

At Café Mojo, Panjim @ 10 am to 11.30 pm +919850980091/+919860010061

Retro Revolution

Retro, country & slow rock with the Valentinos, Elvis on guitar & Edgar on keyboards At down the Road, Old Patto Bridge, Panaji @ 9 pm onwards +91 8087649050

Karaoke Night

Live Filipino Band performance At O’ Goa, Hotel Fidalgo, Panjim @ 7.30 pm. 2226291

Live Filipino Band performance At O’ Goa, Hotel Fidalgo, Panaji @ 7.30 pm +918322226291

Every Tuesday

Every Friday

At Café Mojo @ 10 am to 11.30 pm +91 9850980091/ +91 9860010061

At 9-Bar Vagator @ 5 pm Beer, BBQ n Blues Friday Nights Featuring live entertainment by Veeam and the Highway stars. Unlimited beer coupled with set menus containing BBQ options starting @ INR 650/- per person for a package that includes, food, beverages and entertainment.

Tuesday – Country Rock

Retro & all Time Hits

Retro hits played by DJ Aggie At Radisson Blu Resort, Cavelossim @ 9 pm onwards +918326726677 / +91 8888061199

Tuesday Night

With the electrifying Miramar Free entry At down the Road, Old Patto Bridge, Panaji @ 10 pm onwards. +91 8087649050

Every Wednesday Ladies Night

At Soul Souffle, Uddear, Verna @ 8 pm +918322782100/+919404312100

Cosmopolitan Ladies Nite At Butter, Panjim @ 8 pm +918308838888

Jam Session

A musical adventure with Goa’s one & Only Zezhinio At Sweet Chilli, Sinquerim @ 7.30 pm +91 9820820254

Trance Party

Friday – Old School

At Café Mojo, Panaji @ 10 am to 11.30 pm +91 9850980091/ +91 9860010061

Every Friday/Saturday DJ Nights

At Capiz Bar, Grand Hyatt @ 10.30 pm. +918323011125

DJ Sindhiya Performing Live At Club Margarita, Colva @ 8 pm to 11.30 pm +91 9823259008, +918322789745

Every Saturday

Saturday Karaoke

Karaoke session with KDJ Pierre At Sweet Chilli, Sinquerim @ 7.30 pm 9820820254

from page 3 the women who add that electric buzz to any nightspot. At first sight, veteran Mumbai party regulars might be forgiven if they think they’ve wandered back into their favourite hangout Rock Around The Clock back home in Bandra, but then, there are many nightclubs which are similarly designed. There’s an open dance floor with seating all around and the DJ’s cabin to one side. A staircase in a corner leads up to the premium lounge upstairs and a well-like gallery from where you can look down onto the dance floor below from all four sides. The dark brown wood finish all over with comfortable brown sofas and tiny framed photos of elegant women give Ianos a very chic look. Expect very commercial music here, with DJ Nix, ex of Mambos, Tito’s, et al, controlling the proceedings from the DJ’s pavilion with his specialty hip-hop and house hits. Even if the dance floor is full, there’s plenty of open space to groove around the two bars on the two levels. While downstairs is for those wanting to let their hair down and party till you get full value for your thousand bucks, upstairs is a bit more upscale, so to say, with premium champagnes and whiskeys on offer at a decent price, plus some great global cuisine. How come you never noticed this place, you’ll ask yourself. It only started on January 18 this year, that’s why. The fun, in other words, has only just begun. The good thing is it’s open every night from 8.30 pm onwards right up to 4 am most days. In other words, at Ianos you can party till you drop. A venture of Ianos Hospitality Services with its HQ at Gera’s Imperium at Patto Plaza, Panjim, the Ianos at Baga is named after the son of the owner Franky Fernandes. The name Ianos is Greek in origin, being the God of all beginnings and transitions. We got chatting with Rosario D’Souza, the tall, affable and much-travelled general manager of the nightspot. “We’re a proper clubbing venue and global cuisine party spot,” he says of his baby. Having worked in party hotspots in Mumbai, the UK and Scotland, besides at the Fidalgo in Panjim in earlier years, Rosario brings a wealth of experience to Ianos. You can feel the difference when you interact with the staff to order a drink. Warm, friendly and helpful would be the words to describe them. Don’t worry if you get a bit loud after a few drinks – the staff understands you’re enjoying yourself. But if you start getting fresh with the ladies, well, we told you about the beasts at the entrance. Being in Baga, Ianos pulls in a lot of tourists, both domestic and foreign, who simply walk in. A lot of local

party goers from the coastal area also hang out here during the week. “We’re looking at highend clients and we want them to be happy when they visit Ianos,” says Rosario. As with other happening nightclubs, Ianos too has various theme nights on different days of the week. Monday and Tuesdays are for commercial club and house music. Wednesdays are Bollywood nights with Hindi music. Thursdays is ladies theme night (with extra enticements for ladies), while Friday and the weekend is for the latest hiphop and house music. Though they play classic rock favourites in the opening hours, classic rock is not really on their menu, says DJ Nix. Ianos also hosts private parties and corporate bashes with a full-fledged menu, and also events – with the Easter event promising to be a big draw. They’re also going to be open during the day too, soon, while a new menu will be introduced in April. Right now there’s a selection of global cuisine with Goan Chicken Peri Peri, English-style Fish N Chips, Falafel for those looking out for some Mediterranean, as also fusion dishes like Parmesan Panko Chicken, which brings together Italian and Japanese flavours. The cuisine is truly one of the highlights at Ianos. But arguably the music is even better, what with DJ Nix, winner of the All-India Battle of the DJ’s in 2008, at the console. Go, don your Greek toga and check it out. 

6 World View

Obama and Netanyahu: Dissecting the Love Fest By Steven Gutkin

t doesn’t take an Einstein to know that Barack Obama and Benjamin Netanyahu, despite the strong ties between their countries, have never cared much for each other – to the point where Netanyahu barely attempted to hide his preference for Obama’s opponent Mitt Romney in the last U.S. election and where Obama found it difficult even to accommodate an audience with Netanyahu when the Israeli leader visited Washington. Why then, one might ask, did Obama choose to make Israel his first foreign trip since being re-elected last November? Obama may be a lot of things, but stupid is not one of them. This trip was an admission that his first strategy for dealing with the Israeli-Palestinian conflict – a gentle attempt at even handedness rather than a blanket Israel-right-or-wrong policy – failed miserably. There’s been no progress whatsoever in achieving Mideast peace since Obama’s famous 2009 speech in Cairo in which he called for a new beginning between the United States and Muslims around the world. The message this time around was pretty much the exact opposite: Israel, I’m with you. If reaching out to Arabs yielded no results, could reassuring Israelis of American love do any better? History has shown that Israeli leaders who feel confident of American support are more apt to compromise (see Yitzhak Rabin and Bill Clinton). Israelis hated a particular passage in Obama’s 2009 Cairo speech in which he suggested that Israel came about as a result of the Nazi Holocaust. They indignantly pointed out that Theodor Herzl, the founder of modern Zionism, died decades before World War ll, and that the Jewish attachment to Palestine dates back to the Bible, not Mein Kampf. This time around, here’s what Obama had to say about Jewish claims to the Holy Land: “More than 3,000 years ago, the Jewish people lived here, tended the land here, prayed to God here. And after centuries of exile and persecution, unparalleled in the history of man, the founding of the Jewish State of Israel was a rebirth, a redemption unlike any in history. Today, the sons of Abraham and the daughters of Sarah are fulfilling the dream of the ages — to be ‘masters of their own fate’ in ‘their own sovereign state.’” In truth, the issue is highly debatable. Whether there would have been an Israel without the murder of 6 million Jews during WWll is an open question. Still, Obama’s change of strategy started paying dividends almost immediately. One Israeli daily wrote that Obama “had us at shalom”. Veteran Israeli columnist Nahum Barnea said Obama had made a real “breakthrough” in his relationship with Israelis. And a group of young Israelis cheered him when a heckler interrupted his main Jerusalem speech to demand the release of convicted American Jewish spy Jonathan Pollard. With the love fest in full swing, Obama suddenly ventured into somewhat riskier territory, telling Israelis what they may not necessarily have wanted to hear: Palestinians, too, had rights. “Put yourself in their shoes — look at the world through their eyes,” he said. “It is not fair that a Palestinian child cannot grow up in a state of her own, and lives with the presence of a foreign army that controls the movements of her parents, every single day.” “Neither occupation nor expulsion is the answer,” Mr.

Obama said. “Just as Israelis built a state in their homeland, Palestinians have a right to be a free people in their own land.” At this point came what was perhaps Obama’s most candid statement during his two-day visit to Israel and the Palestinian territories. While explaining his motives, he acknowledged the reality – and the constraints – of U.S. policy on Israel. “Politically, given the strong bipartisan support for Israel in America, the easiest thing for me to do would be to put this issue aside (the Israeli-Palestinian conflict) and express unconditional support for whatever Israel decides to do,” he told the young Jerusalem audience. Indeed, after centuries of persecution culminating in the genocide of the Holocaust, the Jewish people not only find themselves with a strong country of their own but also a powerful lobby in Washington – one that no U.S. president can ignore. So will Obama’s visit to the Holy Land put Israeli-Palestinian peacemaking back on the table after years of inaction? Perhaps, but don’t hold your breath. In recent years, many Mideast watchers have argued that time is running out on a “two-state” solution to the conflict – mostly because of expanding Israeli settlements on land that is supposed to comprise a future Palestine and because of growing support for a “one-state” solution that would force Israel to choose between an apartheid-like reality or giving up its Jewish character, as the area’s Jewish and Muslim populations reach parity. I have thought about this issue a lot, and I’m no longer certain that time is running out. The Israeli occupation of the West Bank and East Jerusalem has lasted nearly half a century, and it can go on longer. It can be argued that Israel’s 2005 withdrawal from the Gaza Strip helped defuse the demographic time bomb by reducing the number of Palestinians under direct Israeli control (though others argue that the Gaza occupation never truly ended). Israel today is a high-tech powerhouse surrounded on all sides by enemies with missiles – and somehow life, normal life, always goes on. Streets recently ran a story on how Palolem in South Goa had been listed as one of the world’s top 10 “party” beaches by the news site Business Insider. Also on that list was Gordon Beach in Tel Aviv, despite its location just a few kilometres away from the strongholds of Hamas and Hezbollah. Can the status quo last? Yes it can. But it’s also true that the price for sustaining it will keep rising. The second Palestinian intefadeh was more violent than the first, and my bet is that the third will be more violent than the second. Upheavals in Syria, Gaza, Lebanon and Egypt ultimately add a new dimension to the threats facing Israel. And if one considers the current rates of intermarriage and assimilation of U.S. Jews – and the growing divergence in American Jewish opinion on official Israeli policy - it’s fair to ask whether Israel will be able to count on unconditional American support indefinitely. The occupation tears away at Israel’s moral fibre, exacerbates its isolation and ultimately threatens its status as a Jewish democracy. In the end, yes, the occupation can go on longer. But it’s no way to live.  Steven Gutkin, Streets’ Chief Advisor, worked for more than two decades as an international news correspondent in various countries around the world, including a six-year stint as the Associated Press bureau chief for Israel and the Palestinian territories.

The Lowdown Goa Streets takes this opportunity to wish all of our readers a very happy Holi and a peaceful, meaningful Holy Week. We chose this week’s cover on Shigmo because of the holiday’s status as a uniquely Goan festival – mired in so much history, tradition and colour. Also note our feature on Easter, and all the wonderful ways we have to celebrate it here in Goa. In this issue, we’d also like to draw your attention to a couple of Streets “scoops”, most notably our exclusive interview with artist Ted Mesquita, who has brought his unique brand of creativity to our fellow former Portuguese colony of Macau, or our piece on the last handloom weaver in all of Goa. On these pages, we also take you inside the world of pot use in Goa and we warn you about mango vendors who promise one thing but deliver another. Also take a look at our World View piece on the Mideast conflict, written by someone who covered it himself for years, our sensual short story, and our column on sex and relationships. That’s in addition to an unusual food event in South Goa, and a moving story on a group of Goans making a real difference in the world of children and books. This is a season of celebration and reflection. A time of joy and family and fun. We hope our comprehensive listings on everything there is to see, do and eat in this state will continue to be of use to both Goans and visitors to Goa. We hope you enjoy reading this edition of Goa Streets! And we hope we are living up to our promise of being… Way Ahead. The Goa Streets Team

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Mar 28

FOOD

www.goastreets.com/food

Scallop jere mere (left) and Vegetable cutlet at Park Hyatt.

Seafood Barbecue At Morisco, Sinquerim @ 7 pm +918326645858

Mar 31

Smooth Sunday

With Kenni At Martin’s Corner, Betalbatim @ 8 pm +918322880413

Easter Bake Fest Bakes, Cakes & Goodies At Caculo Mall, Panjim @ 3.30 pm to 7 pm +919890009011

Time 11am-12 midniht non stop food service, open everyday. Home delivery: 0832-2411959 & 976415986 Caterin Service Contact: Mr. Roland Rodrigues @ 989042440

Sunday Brunch

With Multi Cuisines At Global Shore Restaurant, Porvorim @ 12.30 pm +919373113205/+918323267033

Easter Brunch

At Cafe Azul, Cidade de Goa, Vainguinim @ 12 pm +918322454545

Gastronomic extravaganza At Goa’s Grand address At The Dining Room, Grand Hyatt, Bambolim +918323011125

Masters of Food and Wine A contemporary taste of Goa By Evelyn Lourenço

hen in Rome, do as the Romans do and when in Goa, do as the … Well, how ’bout a new twist on that one? When in Goa, do as the Goans do, but with some kalamata olives, peppercorn and quail. That’s an example of what the Park Hyatt has added to traditional Goan cuisine to turn it into some kind of modern culinary drama. It’s all part of the Park Hyatt Masters of Food and Wine, a worldwide event designed by the hotel chain to pay tribute to local culture, ingredients and flavours. Before I continue, and in the interest of full disclosure, I attended this Masters of Food and Wine event along with my husband, Streets Editor José Lourenço. What you are reading is not a typical Streets food review, which would generally be done anonymously with the publication paying the bill. In this case, José and I were invited – and yes, wined and dined, literally. I am pleased to report the results were happy. At the Park Hyatt in South Goa’s Arossim

village, their signature Goan restaurant Casa Sarita played centerstage, presenting “contemporary” Goan cuisine set against local culinary traditions, directed by Chef Edrige Vaz. An eclectic menu paired with wines from the Fratelli Wine cellars promised to make for an exciting dinner. The four-course meal set off with appetizing soup options: Potato with spinach and kalamata olives or Prawn with coriander and peppercorn. The latter was served up with a solitary steamed prawn, with a dash of coriander and peppercorn. Potato stock soup was then poured on top of the prawn. Now this was no flavour bomb in a traditional Goan sense. Instead, it was more of a subtle pleasure in a traditional European sense – a point driven home by the great ceremony with which it was served, as if we were in some kind of French chalet. Lilting fado music in the background pleasured the ears, as we sipped the 2012 Chenin, a white wine with fresh aromas of melon and guava, with a hint of lemongrass. “The mouth explodes with fresh clean acidity which cuts through the succulent

mouthful of delicious flavour,” promised the wine label. Our British guests at the table included hotelier Simon Hayward, financial consultant Kevin Hull and their companions. They certainly enjoyed the soup, with explosions of laughter accompanying those in their mouths. A little bell rang demanding attention from the hotel’s Executive Chef, Saulo Bachhilega, and Chef Vaz, who outlined the night’s reworking of traditional Goan cuisine. One of the options for the first course was a Vegetable cutlet, with young coconut, red spinach and herbs salad with tempering dressing. I chose the Scallop jere mere, mango and chilli sauce, cabbage and coconut salad roll. Its presentation was lovely, with the cabbage and salad tucked into a compact little roll. Scallops are not easily available in Goa and have to be imported. These marine mollusks taste close to crab meat, with the texture smooth and delicate. The Chef had infused the Scallop jere mere well with mango and chilli sauce, dabbed in spots on the plate around the scallop and roll. turn to page 9

8 Food Grand Easter Sunday Brunch,

Nilaya Hermitage

At Goa Marriott, Panjim +918322463333

At Caravela, The Taj Holiday Village, Sinquerim @ 12 pm +918326645858

Specialises in Mediterranean cuisine using plenty of fresh sea-food and home grown organic vegetables. Also has a variety of Goan cuisine specialties and serves Indian curries upon request. At St. Joseph School Road, Arpora +91832 227 6792

Sumptuous Sunday Brunch

Fiesta

Sunday Brunch

At Latitude, Fort Aguada beach resort, Candolim @ 12 pm +918326645858

Based on contemporary European style of cooking. Signature dishes lobster au gratin, herb ricotta ravioli and death by chocolate At Saunta Waddo, Baga @ 11 am to 11.30 pm +918322279894/+918322281440

Easter Celebration At Hotel Grand Hyatt Goa, Bambolim @ 1 pm +918323011234

Le Poisson Rouge

A French alfresco Restaurant by Gregory Bazire offer imported wines Chile, Argentina, South Africa and Italy. House Speciality includes king prawns, roasted black pomfret, Goan sausages crump and kingfish. At Baga, Calangute @ 7 pm to 11 pm +91 9823850276/ +918323245800

April 1

Sizzling Pool side Barbecues At Latitude, Fort Aguada beach resort, Candolim @ 7 pm +918326645858

Casa Portuguesa

Housed in an 18th Century colonial house, it offers Portuguese cuisine along with some dishes reflecting Goan influences, complete with the pleasant ambience of Fado Music At Baga Rd @ 7 pm to 11 pm. +91 9822122960

Mar 6 to Mar 31

Lunch & Dinner Menu

With Multi Cuisine At Tito’s Retro Club, Calangute @ 12.30 pm to 11 pm +919822765002/+918322275028

Chef Soumyens Kitchen

Lunch & Dinner Menu

A fine dine continental restaurant by Chef Soumyen Chakraborty. Specialising in steaks, seafood and pastas; vegetarian options also available. At Luis Gomes Rd, Calangute @ 12 pm to 12 am +91 9226481417/+918322276160

With Multi Cuisine At Souza Lobo, Calangute @ 12.30 pm to 11.30 pm +919822120516/+918322281234

Lunch & Dinner Menu

With Multi Cuisine At Horizon Grill Restaurant, Candolim @ 12.30 pm to 11.30 pm +919822466682

Lunch Menu

With German Cuisine At Lila Cafe, Calangute @ 12.30 pm to 3 pm +919822150533/+918322279843

Lunch & Dinner Menu

With Chinese, Malaysian & Thai Cuisine At Pan Asian Bowl, Panjim @ 12.30 pm to 11 pm +919923499429/+918326455549

Dinner Menu

With Italian Cuisine At Tuscany Gardens, Candolim @ 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm +919922914663/+918326454026

Dinner Menu

Chef Edridge Vaz of Casa Sarita at Park Hyatt

Mar 20 to Mar 28

Corporate & Cocktail With Henry At Cafe Mojo Pub & Bistro @ 8 pm to 11.30 pm +918322426666

Mar 23 to Mar 31

Goa Marriott Easter Festival Sweets and other goodies available throughout the Easter week. At Goa Marriott, Panjim +918322463333

Mar 28 to Mar 31

With Multi Cuisine At I 95 Restaurant, Calangute @ 7.30 pm to 11.30 pm +919881301184/+918322275213

Easter Goodies

Break Fast, Lunch & Dinner Menu

At Santa Lucia, Siolim @ 7.30 am to 11 pm +919890451579/+918323162444

Lunch & Dinner Menu

With Multi Cuisine At Joecons Garden restaurant, Benaulim @ 12 pm to 11.30 pm +919822110511/+918322770077

Lunch & Dinner Menu With Multi Cuisine At The Upper House, Panjim @ 12 pm to 11.30 pm +918322426475

Mar 15 to Mar 30 Beers of the World

At Tease Bar & Pub, Panjim @ 6 pm to 11.30 pm +918326633636

At Cafe Azul, Cidade de Goa, Vainguinim +918322454545

Every Thursday

Seafood Night Market

Feel the pulse of a Grand Goan Carnival with special stalls with tempting fresh seafood, artefacts jewellery, clothes, pottery, and a lot more. Rs. 1800 + taxes per person Grand Hyatt, Bambolim @ 7 pm to 11.30 pm +918323011658/+917709004914

Every Sunday Bikini Brunch

Sunday BBQ Brunch @ Rs.950/With Unlimited Alcohol From 12.30 pm to 4.30 pm At The Park on Holiday Beach, Calangute +918322277600

Sunday Family Brunches Get in Rhythm with Ashley Live At Latitude, Vivanta by Taj, Panaji @ 12.30 pm to 3.30 pm +918326633636

Sunday Live Brunch

Enjoy a Sunday Live brunch with live stations, a live band, best of live entertainment and an unlimited flow of wines! There’s live entertainment for kids too, including magicians, balloon sculpting and face painting, etc. From 12:30pm to 03:30pm At Waterfront Terrace & Bar, Goa Marriott Resort & Spa +918322463333

Champagne Sunday Brunch

Enjoy brunch with French champagne with food from five interactive and live stations dishing out Asian, Italian, Middle Eastern, Indian Cuisine and desserts. Rs. 2200 + taxes (includes buffet, champagne, wines and select drinks) At Grand Hyatt, Bambolim @ 1 pm to 4 pm +918323011658/+917709004914

Oriental Sunday Brunch

Goa Marriott Resort & Spa hosts an Oriental Sunday Brunch featuring Pan Asian delicacies, including Thai, Malaysian, Chinese and Japanese cuisine! Savour live counter specialties including veg and nonveg sushi, Peking duck, dim sums, soups, and Thai curry, and scrumptious main courses dishes including rice and noodle preparations. Plus Oriental desserts, continental pastries, fruits and ice-cream and a complimentary round of wine, beer or a mojito. From 12:30pm to 03:30pm At Wan Hao, Goa Marriott Resort & Spa +918322463333

Baga, Calangute & around Thalassa

Greek and Mediterranean food by the sea. At Vagator beach @ 4 pm to 12 am +91 9850033537

After Seven

Offers French cuisine. The restaurant recommends dishes like camembert soufflé, warm squid in balsamic vinegar and rum, steaks and lemon infused prawns At Gauravaddo, Calangute @ 12 pm to 11.30 pm +918322279757

Infantaria

A Regular café which known for Breakfast and takeaway counter. At Baga @ 7.30 am to 12 pm +918323291290

J&A’s

Italian alfresco restaurant specialised in country style Italian cuisine & Pizzas. The restaurant recommends prawns and zucchini soup, Tuscan-style beef stew, Carpaccio and slivers of raw beef. At Baga @ 10 am to 11 pm +919823139488 Anjuna & around

Blue Tao

Specialised in Italian, Seafood, Organic Food At Anjuna beach Rd, Anjuna From 9 am to 11 pm +918975061435

Alcove Restaurant and Bar

Specialised in Chinese, Goan, Italian, North Indian, seafood, At Ozran beach, Anjuna @ 8 am onwards +918322274491/+918322273349

The German Bakery

Anjuna Bakery is an organic health food restaurant, which included some nonvegetarian items, which are healthy and necessary to keep your mind & body strong and sharp. At Market Rd Anjuna +91 9096058775

Baba au Rhum

Is a Coffee Shop At Kudachwaddo, Arpora @ 8 am to 4 pm +919822078759

Basilico

It’s a best place in North Goa for Italian Food At D’mello Waddo, Anjuna @ 6.30 pm to 11 pm +918322273721/ +918323953744/ +919822599130

Candolim Bomra’s

The food has a distinct Burmese soul but draws on and fuses influences from nearby regional cuisines of China, India, Laos and Thailand. At Souzawaddo, Candolim @ 6.30 to 11.30 pm. +91 9767591056

Beach House

Specialised in Goan, Portuguese, Seafood At Vivanta Holiday Village, Sinquerim @ 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm +918326645858

Barbeque and Grill

Specialised in North Indian, seafood, Grills, Live entertainment Seafood Bazaar is on Monday and Wednesday At Fortune select Regina, Candolim @ 7.30 pm to 11 pm +918323988444

House of Lloyds

Serves continental, seafood, goancuisine. The restaurant recommends: Goan roast pork, apple salad with tender greens, crispy sardines, stuffed crab and steaks At Saipem Road, Candolim @ 7 pm to 3 am. +91 9823032273

Cuckoo Zen Garden

Serves a wide variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian healthy food, as well as tasty and healthy herbal food & drinks. The Cuckoo Zen Garden opens from beginning of November to end of March. At Candolim @ 7 pm to 11 pm +91 9881773524

Tuscany Gardens

Italian restaurant by Avi & Line Shetty serves antipasti, secondi, pasta, pizzeria, dolci, risotto and insalate. At Fort Aguada Road, Don Hill Enclave, Candolim @ 12 pm to 11 pm +918326454026

Café Chocolatti

It’s a Coffee Shop, At Fort Aguada Rd, Candolim From 9 am to 7 pm +918322479340/+919326112006

A Reverie

Serves continental cuisine. Popular dishes are seared fillet steak tournedos, smoked Australian duck breast, insalata caprese, basil oil, baby bocconcini, smoked tuna, chicken liver pate. At Holiday street, Calangute @ 7 pm to 12 am. +919823174927 /+919823505550

Banyan Tree

Dine under the cool shadow of a 300-yearold Banyan Tree. Signature dishes: Spicy and sour prawn soup, crispy fried vegetables in roasted chilli sauce, Sweet water chestnuts in coconut milk. At Vivanta Taj Holiday Village, Candolim @ 12.30 pm to 10.30 pm +91832664 5555

Panaji & around Chulha

Indian Street food and Tandoor At Grand Hyatt Goa, Bambolim @ 3 pm to 11 pm +918323011504

Viva Panjim

Goan cuisine & seafood. Linda and Michael’s place has long been a favourite for those in search of very tasty Goan food. At Fontainhas, Panjim @ 12 pm to 11 pm +918322422405/ +91 9850471363

Food Review 9

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Goenchin

Specializes in Chinese and Thai cuisines. Both vegetarian and non-vegetarian items are available. At Mandovi Apts Panjim 12.30 pm to 11 pm +918322227614/ +918322464877

O’ Coqueiro

Goan Cuisine in Porvorim, made famous not just by its tasty food but also as the place where international criminal Charles Sobhraj was arrested. At NH 17 Rd, Porvorim @ 12 pm to 11 pm +918322417806/ +918322417271/ +918322417344

Pan Asian Bowl

Chinese, Malaysian & Thai cuisine. Some of the finest Asian food in Goa. At Miramar, Panjim @ 12.30 pm to 11 pm +91 9923499429/ +918326455547/ +918326455548

Bhojan

Offers pure veg thali for lunch & dinner. At Hotel Fidalgo, Panjim @ 7.30 to 11 pm +918322226291

Cantina Bodega

Pizzeria, bakery & cafe. Owner Vandana utilizes her expertise earned from her years as a top pastry chef in New York City. At Sunaparanta Centre for the Arts, Altinho, Panjim @ 10 am to 7 pm +91 9011662233

Delhi Darbar

Known for Tandoori, kebabs, biryanis & naans At M.G Rd Panjim @ 11.30 am to 11 pm +918322222544

Tea Cafe

Cakes, Coffee and other goodies. A newcomer to the Panjim cafe scene. At Fontainhas, Panjim @ 11 am to 7 pm +918322223050

Antonio D’silva

Specialised in Goan food, strictly for the sausage lovers. At velha, Panjim From 6 am to 9 pm +919822184433

Barista Lavazza Outlet

Barista Lavazza’s famous beverages like Flavoured Hot Coffee, Cold Coffee, Hot Tea, Ice Tea, Mojito, Smoothie, Ice Cream Shakes, Juices. In bites section we offer Sandwiches, Calzones, Muffins and Cakes. At Shop No. 15, 16, & 18, First Floor, Navelcar Trade Center, Opp. Azad Maidan, M G Road, Panjim +918322422130

Café Azul

All day dining restaurant offering buffet combo option. At Cidade de Goa, Vainguinim Beach @ 7 pm to 11 pm +918322454545

Upper House

Goan and continental cuisine. One of the tastier and more elegant restaurants of the capital. Good bar, too. At Panjim @ 12 pm to 11 pm +918322426475

Little Chocolate Box

Specialties include cupcakes (red velvet YUM), cakes (themed and otherwise), chocolates (of course) and brownies. At Kranti Nagar, Alto Porvorim Email id: lcbee91@gmail.com +919822984224

Doçaria

Coffee shop, beverage counter, cake shop, games centre, snack bar, dessert lounge At Cidade de Goa, Vainguinim Beach @ 24 hrs +918322454545

Fantasia

Fig & Olive

Flavours of the Mediterranean, Arabian & Italian. At Holiday Inn Resort, Cavelossim @ 9 am to 11 pm +918322871303

Spice Studio

Fast food & snacks, plus lively bar in the heart of Panjim. Check out the live music. At Panjim @ 9 am to 11 pm +918322226684

Goan dinner. Elegant outdoor restaurant in a well-appointed resort in the South. At Alila Diwa, Majorda @ 7 pm to 10.30 pm +918322746800

City Pride

Martin’s Corner

Specialised in Seafood At Opp. Vivanta by Taj, Panjim From 11 am to 11 pm

A Pastelaria

Bakery & Confectionery Gateaux, Pastries and Cookies. Chocolate and strawberry flavoured the mousses are soft and melting, a treat for the kids. Its maska all the way At Hotel Mandovi, Panaji From 9 am to 9 pm +918322426270/+918322426273

Cafe Mojo

Arguably Panjim’s best pub. Innovative, fun and lively. At Salida Del Sol Hotel, Panjim All day. +91 9850980091

Down the Road

Pub and a Multi Cuisine restaurant, often with live entertainment. A favourite Panjim hotspot. At Old Patto Bridge, Panjim, @ 11 am to 11 pm. +91 9823173757

Barbeque

Joint popular with celebrities and just about everyone else. Serves Goan cuisine. At Betalbatim @ 11 am to 11 pm +91 9822166996/ 2880061

Casa Sarita

Offers a blend of Indian and Portuguese culture. Signature dishes include chouris pao, prawn curry & Goan fish curry. At Park Hyatt, Cansaulim @ 6.30 pm to 11 pm +918322721234 Goan Cuisine in a favourite landmark restaurant featuring very good food and a great collection of “nostalgic” antiques At Raia, Salcete, Margao @ 11 am to 11 pm +918322777098/ +918322777054/ +91 9822103467/ +91 9822151296

Upper Deck

Coffee shop offerings traditional coffee along with light snacks and drinks. At Radisson Blu Resort Goa, Cavelossim Beach @ all day 6726666

Shandong

Mum’s Kitchen

Marbella

Alfama

Well known for fado evenings At Cidade de Goa, Vainguinim Beach @ 7.30 pm to 11 pm +918322454545

Margao & around

Lucio

Specialty restaurant serving GoanPortuguese cuisine. At Radisson Blu Resort Goa, Cavelossim Beach @ 11 am to 11 pm +918326726666

Cafe Mardi Gras

24 hrs cafe serving seafood, Goan, North Indian, Coffee & snacks At Holiday Inn Resort, Cavelossim @ All day +918322871303

China Gate

Dedicated Chinese Cuisine At Fatima High School, Margao @ 12 pm to 11 pm +918322704655

Act Two ushered in the Quail cafreal, sweet potato bhaji, tamarind glazed shallot. Cafreal in Goa is synonymous with Chicken Cafreal, a dish brought into Goa by African soldiers in colonial times. Quail is a small bird, also not regularly found in Goa. Quail has a strong smell, which is subdued by tempering it with the right amount of spices so as not to take away from its taste. Cooking time is also important, as overcooked quail tends to get leathery. The usual potato in the bhaji was replaced by sweet potatoes (konngam) lending a novel taste to the bhaji, which otherwise kept to the traditional recipe. The shallot was glazed with tamarind, a tangy and crunchy kick on the side. A 2012 Shiraz Rosé from the Fratelli cellars accompanied the first course. According to the makers, this blend is ‘deeply ruby in colour with aromas of plum, blackberry and spice with subtle hints of typical earthiness and coffee on the nose.’ It is a medium bodied wine with a soft supple mouthfeel. My mouth felt good alright.

Fernandos Nostalgia

Beach Front Grill enables a guest to choose from a display of seafood, Meats & vegetables and have them cooked to his/ her liking. At Cidade de Goa, Vainguinim Beach @ 7 am to 11 pm +918322454545 Among the best upscale Goan cuisine in Panjim, drawing from Goa’s Christian and Hindu traditions. At Panjim-Miramar Rd @ 11 am to 11pm +91 9822175556

from page 7

Asian-cuisine restaurant with fine dining ambiance At Radisson Blu Resort Goa, Cavelossim Beach @ 11 am to 11 pm 6726666

Morjim & Around The restaurant is located beachside, with full service extending to the sun bed area. Complete with lounge music giving the place a relaxed, creative, beach vibe. At Morjim. +91 9158881185/ +918326450599

Sublime-Fusion Restaurant

Sublime is set in the charming beachside, offering innovative and eclectic cuisine. At Vithaldas Waddo Morjim. +91 9822484051/ +91 9923608674

Canacona Sirocco

Fine dining restaurant serving Mediterranean Cuisine At Lalit, Canacona @ 5.30 pm to 11 pm +918322667777/ +918322667711

Corta’s

Goan cuisine beach shack restaurant At Lalit, Canacona @ 12.30 pm to 11 pm. 2667777/2667711

Canacona

Multi-cuisine serving breakfast, Lunch & dinner At Lalit, Canacona @ 7.30 am to 11 pm 2667777/2667711

VeriFeni

Bar offering a variety of cocktails, Exotic fenitails, wines, beers, spirits, liqueurs and cigars. At Lalit, Canacona @ 12.30 pm to 12 pm 2667777/2667711

The sea bass fillet of the main course was soft and succulent with its original taste coming through strongly, untouched by sauces or masalas. The acrid lemon berry curry with ground coconut was rich and blended well with the fish. To complement the fish and curry, a cup of rice stood aside. So there you had the traditional fish-curry-rice with its elements completely deconstructed and presented anew. Though the rendering was new, the taste was essentially traditional Goan. Rice sannas with caldinho acted as the vegetarian option for the main course. Sannas, steamed rice cakes, are a Goan favourite at feasts and weddings, going well with sorpotel. But here was a new kid on the block, the sannas being made of rawa (semolina) instead of rice. The sannas were topped with a spice topping and then fried. Went well with the caldinho, which was served up in a small calce, a shot glass. Alle belle parfait, semi dried coconut, jaggery sauce closed the dinner as dessert. Alle belle usually is served as a pancake stuffed with jaggery and grated coconut, called chun. But these tiny alle belle cones were served up with palm jaggery sauce, with a scoop of icecream garnished with coconut shavings. A feni cocktail with mystery spices added a sweet pungent end to the dinner tale. The Brits at our table flinched at the feni’s powerful presence, but at my side, Kevin Hull, a burly and hearty bon vivant from Cambridge, quaffed it in a single gulp, urging on his mates to do likewise. (You can take the Brit out of Britain, but you can’t take Britain out of the Brit). Goans are accustomed to hearty eating, with large plates filled generously, as any Goan party buffet will demonstrate. This evening’s event was more of a minimalist experience of studied refinement – which, as much as anything else, marked the dinner as contemporary and not traditional. But this experiment at Casa Sarita was a delightful deconstruction, proving that Goan cuisine, like any of the other arts, can be constantly improvised to bring fresh tickles to the senses. After all, Goan cuisine itself is the result of centuries of improvisation and innovation, a culinary jugalbandi, between the East and the West. 

10 Feature Photographs by Arun Pavaratty

Mango Alert By Joseph Zuzarte

he King of Fruits sits on a plate before you. As your knife sinks into the pulp, you are drooling, but you scoop some into your mouth and your taste buds sound an alarm. Is it really the King on your plate, or an imposter? The topnotch mancurad mango you bought at the market could well be a lookalike variety, palmed off to you by unscrupulous vendors. As all mango lovers know, there’s something deeply disappointing about biting into a mango that fails to live up to its promise. Selecting the right mango to eat has long been a Goan obsession. Back when there were no markets, the norm was to grow your own mangos. Usually people would plant the seed of a mango which they had eaten and liked. Or they would ask the owner of the tree, which had yielded a succulent mango, for a ‘graft’ of that specific variety, which they would

Beware: Unscrupulous vendors hawk fakes

A housewife makes a bargain over early season mangoes at the Panjim Municipal market

then plant in their yard. And then they would watch the tree grow. A few years later, the first mangoes would appear. At times they would be as good as the fruit of origin. Or perhaps even better. More often, they were a little worse, in which case they would graft a branch of the new tree with another branch of a different tree and plant the resultant graft, and maybe get a great tasting mango at some point in the long process. All this explains the bewildering variety of mangos now available in Goa. With the markets here, only a few diehards bother to grow their own mango trees anymore. Call it instant gratification, Goan-style. Why wait years to eat a good mango?

But do you really know what mango you’re eating? Is it really a premiumquality ‘mancurad’ which has been sold to you? Chances are that when you go to a market these days, the vendor will try to convince you that his mangos are ‘mancurads’, the magic variety most desire, even though his may be a different type altogether. More than 77 mango varieties have been recorded in Goa, incluing a large variety of ‘mancurads’ too. The Bardez version is slightly different from the Salcete kind and so on. In recent years, scientists at the Indian Council for Agricultural Research (ICAR) station at Old Goa have worked to develop a standard ‘mancurad’ plant, which has then been widely disbursed to Goan growers. The idea is to create the perfect mango of this variety, which could then be grown by farmers in large quantities and exported. “We have collected different ‘mancurad’ types from all over: Siolim, Madkai, South Goa, Bicholim, etc, and planted them in our farm for comparison,” says Dr AR Desai, senior research scientist at ICAR, who has been studying mangos for decades. During his research, he discovered that the famous Ratnagiri ‘hapus’ (aphonso) mangos are actually derived from Goan ‘mancurads’. In neighbouring Maharashtra they have standardized the ‘aphonso’ and grown this variety on a large scale. When these mangoes are harvested they can be packed and exported, because most of them are of the same size, colour and taste.

Feature 11

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Fruit sellers display the prized Mancurad mango at the Panjim Municipal market

Which is not the case with Goan ‘mancurads’, which though similar, differ in size, colour and taste from one orchard to another, though they’re all arguably ‘mancurads’. “Everybody who comes here asks for ‘mancurad’ only,” says Sanjeev Mayekar, the Bardez Zonal Agricultural Officer, about people taking saplings to plant in their properties. Yes, there are still people who follow the old Goan tradition of planting a mango tree on their property. While they buy the right plant, they don’t really know what to do next, says Mayekar. “A lot of the people are not planting in ideal conditions,” he says. “Most people plant either in the front or back yard which also have flower and other trees on account of which they irrigate the area all the time, which is not good for mango trees,” he says. So the ‘mancurad’ tree does not grow properly, and though it does give fruit, it’s not quite the fruit which would have been given in ideal conditions. “There are a lot of things,” says Mayekar. “You have to do precision farming. The trees need a lot of sunlight and should be planted at least 15 meters apart. You should water them only during the summer months of the first three years, after which they should get water only during the monsoon. After harvest they should get water and manure, so that you get flowering for the next season,” he says, explaining the many factors which go into good mangos. Ratnakar is a mango trader in Candolim who plucks the mangos from trees and sells them to retail vendors. As his workers climb a huge mango tree, he says, “This variety actually has no name. It’s like a ‘malgesh’, but it is a cross-breed. Today people don’t take care of their trees like in the old days, so the quality of the mangos is also not very good. We don’t sell directly, but to the vendors who then tell the customers whatever name they fancy. Today people don’t know anything. What they want to know is how many mangos they can get for 100 rupees, the more and bigger the better,” he says. There are mango varieties which are

A consignment of ‘mancurads’ was sent to Europe, but there were no repeat orders because of a simple problem: All the mangoes were not the same. - Dr. A. R. Desai Scientist at ICAR,Ela large and sweet and could also pass off as ‘aphonso’ or ‘mancurad’ or ‘hilario’, the other variety which is hugely popular with Goans. Being an agricultural researcher himself, Mayekar has grown a variety called ‘ratna’ in his property at Bicholim. “It’s good. It’s big. It’s a cross between ‘aphonso’ and ‘neelam. It gets most of its character from ‘aphonso’, but grows late in the season like ‘neelam’ and also has a long shelf life,” he says. A true mango connoisseur, however, will always be able to tell the difference between these varieties and an authentic mancurad, aphonso or hilario. These newbies may be decent enough, but still have a hard time matching the depth of flavor of the elites. In earlier years, mangos were grown for different purposes. To eat as a table fruit, for trade, for making jams and squashes, for making pickles, to be dried and used as a spice in food and so on. So what is good for the table was not good for the pickle,

and so on. In this way the ‘monserrate’ (or ‘musrad’ as it is locally called) variety is used for making jams, while pickles are made from the ‘karel’ variety of mango. According to Dr AR Desai, while Goa was a hotspot for developing mango varieties during the Portuguese era, it is somewhat lagging behind in exploiting this natural advantage when it comes to exporting mangos to lucrative markets in Europe and West Asia. “We tried exporting with the Department of Agriculture and the Goa government a few years ago. A consignment of ‘mancurads’ was sent to Europe, but there were no repeat orders because of a simple problem: All the mangoes were not the same,” Dr Desai explains. “Because we needed a large quantity, we sourced the best ‘mancurads’ from orchards all over Goa, but though they were all ‘mancurads’, they differed slightly in skin colour, in size and also taste. So the buyers in Europe were not convinced they were the same mangos. I feel the Goan government should set up a

A mango plucker at work

mango development council to propagate scientific planting of a good ‘mancurad’ variety so that mangos of a standard quality are produced on a large scale which could then be exported. It has been done in Maharashtra with the Ratnagiri ‘aphonso’,” he says. It’s not uncommon on Goan Streets to see vendors with baskets full of luscious, juicy mangos. Stop and ask them what type they are, and pat will come the reply “Mancurad”! To be fair, though, there are also many vendors who are honest enough to tell you it’s a ‘malgesh’ or a ‘monserrate’. Besides which there are many buyers who know their ‘mancurad’ from a ‘hudgo’. So get yourself a few mangos and start learning. For starters, a ‘mancurad’ should be only yellow – there should not be even the slightest blush of orange or pink on its shoulders (which also explains the origin of the name mancurad, believed derived from the Portuguese ‘mal corada’, or poorly coloured). It should not be spongy inside. It should be fibrous just under the skin but no more, and it should be devilishly delicious. 

12 Exploration

Calangute Unplugged By Sanket Sharma

alangute may not be the most beautiful beach in Goa (OK, we’ll go out on a limb and simply state categorically that it is NOT), but with Candolim and Baga on either side, it might just be the most populated one. Despite the congestion, dirt and general mayhem, it still, believe it or not, boasts hundreds of indulgences for a tourist. Below are Sanket Sharma’s suggestions for how to get the most out of it on Rs 500.

08.00 am, Rs 500 Kick off your day at the erstwhile ‘Queen of Goan Beaches’ with a walk on the sands. Get here early to take a morning stroll. Starting from the northern end of the beach, you can walk down south, encountering a line of shacks enroute. Although this is one of the most crowded beaches, you can still find some peace early in the morning. And with peace (and an extra early arrival), you can also glimpse a really beautiful sunrise – as while Calangute has changed dramatically over the years, the sun has not! This beach inspired the Konkani classic song ‘Conguttche Praier (On Calangute Beach)’ by the famed composer Cris Perry, sung by the legendary Lorna. After a brisk walk, you can then get back on the streets of the beach town. A bottled water is all you need for your walk. Total expense, Rs 15

09.00 am, Rs 485 Once you are on the streets (the Goa Streets in Calangute, if you will), stroll on over to Calangute Circle. By now, you are probably a bit hungry. Instead of going to any of the ‘shacks’, try a little South Indian food. Plantain Leaf is a short stroll from the Circle. The prices are moderate and the food delicious. A platter of onion utthapam costs around Rs 80, and a beverage about 30 bucks. If you are a big breakfast person, you should also get yourself a plate of idli. That would run up another 60. Of course, breakfast is the most important meal of the day, and this repast should be good enough until late in the afternoon. Total expense, Rs 170

11.00 am, Rs 315 A good day in the sun is what you are looking at from here on. So put on your sunscreen and sunglasses and pick up another bottle o’water. Once out, you should start walking towards the west, follow the route back from where you came. A string of shops display a lot of goodies, right from second hand books, to furniture, clothes, handicraft items, pretty much everything is available. Here you will encounter the Tibetan market, with an abundance of variety that is very well priced. On offer are Tibetan-made artifacts, jewellery, precious stones and other items. Whether you shop or not, you can spend a lot of time here. Then head back out and walk further west. Once more your vista includes a lot of shops and restaurants with people of all stripes seated outside under an umbrella, quaffing beer and other delights. It is a sight to behold, and as you take in the sights, slowly cruise your way north to the other village, Baga, and back. Total expense, Rs 15

02.30 pm, Rs 300 Back in C’gute, drop into the Infantaria to get some lunch. The risotto here is lovely. It might make a little dent on this mini budget, but it’s worth it. This meat/fish/vegetable-based Italian rice dish will set you back by around Rs 160. Infantaria is pretty well known to tourists and locals alike, so you may not get a seat right away. Be prepared to wait a bit. They also have a lot of offers, like the occasional 5 beers for Rs 100, and happy hours. (If you go for the 5-beer offer, you might want to end your Calangute excursion right now – and perhaps have someone carry you home). Total expense, Rs 160

3.30 pm, Rs 140 The next couple of hours should be spent in a little quiet and peace, where you don’t burn off too much energy. For this you can hop on a bus or walk to the Calangute Mall. From here, it’s an easy stroll to Literati, a store which sells both old and new books. This book store is placed in a old Indo-Portuguese house, and has a quaint ‘dusty library’ kind of charm. They have a seating space inside the house as well as outside in the veranda. You can stroll through and pick a book in which you can indulge for the next hour. Next, head for Art Chamber, an eclectic art gallery situated to the east of Calangute. Here you can check out a lot of local artwork, including performances and paintings. Your creative mind now satiated, saunter out into a local snack bar, there’s plenty around, and order a cup of tea and local bhaji pav. Total expense, Rs 30

06.30pm, Rs 110

You can start heading back towards Baga beach again. Along the way you will find Cavala’s, a popular seaside resort. On the weekends, this place is jam packed and buzzing with live music. A perfect family entertainment spot, once here you can just let go, and enjoy a big bottle of beer. Young and old can be seen chilling out, dancing and singing and having a gala time. The music is mostly old ‘classic’ and with an element of nostalgia. Stay for a while and chat up some new friends. The sun is now setting and it’s time to hit the home road. Total expense = Rs110

09.00 pm, Rs 0

13 Thursday, March 28, 2013

Mar 27 to Mar 29 Pakhwaj Workshop At Kala Academy, Panjim @ 9.30 am to 9.30 pm +918322420453

Mar 28 to April 10 Shimgo Festival

28/03/2013 - Ponda 29/03/2013 - Pernem 30/03/2013 - Panjim 31/03/2013 - Mapusa 01/04/2013 - Vasco 02/04/2013 - Bicholim 03/04/2013 - Sanquelim 04/04/2013 - Valpoi 05/04/2013 - Curchorem 06/04/2013 - Sanguem 07/04/2013 - Margao 08/04/2013 - Quepem 09/04/2013 - Cuncolim 10/04/2013 - Canacona

Mar 28

Cricket Coaching Camp

At Multipurpose HS Ground, Borda, Margao @ 7 am to 9 am & 3.30 pm to 5.30 pm

Workshop on Professional Photographers, Graphic Designers, Wedding & Event Planners At NVI House, Mapusa @ 10 am +919423886969

Mar 30

Sethu Workshop

At Menezes Polyclinic, Altinho, Panjim @ 9.30 am to 12.30 pm. +918326513747

Of Hills and Churches

Heritage Walk organised by Bookworm At St.Sebastian Chapel, Panjim @ 8 am to 10 am. +917709311929

Workshop cum interactive Session on

Healthy Hundred Facilitated by Dr Kunda Silimkhan, MD At The International centre Goa, Dona Paula @ 4 pm to 7 pm +918322452805-10

Mar 31

The Happy Bunny Project 2013 At Jackson’s beach cafe @ 3 pm

April 1 to April 8

Kayaking & Training Program 2013

Every Tuesday Zumba Fitness

Learn a variety of rhythms including salsa, merengue, samba, flamenco, reggae and more from Zumba fitness instructor Cecille Rodriguez. At Grand Hyatt Goa, Bambolim From 6 pm to 7 pm +918323011603/ +918323011604

Every Thursday Aqua Zumba

Zumba in the water. A water-based workout for cardio-conditioning and bodytoning At Grand Hyatt Goa, Bambolim From 10 am to 11 am +918323011603/ +918323011604

Every Friday

Free Swimming Guidance

Organised by Walter Macarena At International Center Goa, Dona Paula from 5 pm to 7 pm +919822911161

Every Sunday

Tailoring Classes

Near Holy Family School, Porvorim From 3 pm to 6 pm 919765731003

Everyday

Yoga for the Body, Mind & Soul

By Ms. Hoor Girglani Monday to Friday At International Centre Goa, Dona Paula @ 8 am to 9.30 am 5 pm to 6.30 pm +919765404391/ +918322452805-10

Want to be Fit & Healthy

Presented by Calburn Fitness Solutions in association with the ICG At The International Centre Goa, Dona Paula. +919811511595/ +919823578880

Tuk Tuk

From apparel to jewellery, bags to accessories, everything at Tuk Tuk is handpicked from across India. At A104, Pereira Plaza, Opp.Hospicio, Margao @ 10.30 am 1 pm & 4.30 pm to 6.30 pm +919049017182

At Vasco and Panjim +919422056037

Monday & Friday

April 1 to April 30 Upto Mar 31

Martial Arts, Fitness, Health & Selfdefence Trainer: Vincent Rosario, Introductory Fee: Rs. 400 per month At The International Centre Goa, Dona Paula @ 5.15 pm to 6.15 pm +919823696138

At Nusi Wockhardt Hospital, Cuncolim +918326684444

Spice Farms

Up to May 1

Elephant rides, authentic Goan cuisine, mini bird sanctuary and a boat to row or paddle. At Arla Bazar Keri, Ponda For reservation call: +918322340329 or Email: tropicalspice@rediffmail.com

4th Annual Windsurfing Camp At Hawali beach, Dona Paula +918806150022/+919145462146

Well Women Health Check-up

Yoga Classes

At Art Escape-Resort, Benaulim From 7.30 am to 8.30 am & 5 pm – 6 pm +919881568756/+919323590051

Taekwondo Sessions

Tropical spice plantation

Sahakari Spice Farm

Guests are entertained by folk dances, elephant rides, art of climbing the tall betel nut palms and swinging from one stalk to the other. Lunch in earthen pots and banana leaves. At Ponda Belgaum highway, Curti. Call: +918322312394 or Email: info@sahakarifarms.com

Savoi Plantation

Offers traditional Goan Saraswat cuisine served in mud pots and banana leaf plates along with seasonal fruits grown in the plantation. At Ponda For reservation call: +918322340272/ +919423888899 or Email: savaiplantation@rediffmail.com

Water sports Scuba Diving

Attractive corals, coloured and beautiful, shells and fishes all invite exploration. At Scuba Diving India, Alfran Plaza, M.G. Rd, Panjim @ 9 am to 5 pm. +918326711999

Barracuda Diving India

Pool parties and underwater celebrations among other water sports activities. At Sun Village Resort, Baga, Arpora & Chalston Beach Resort, Calangute 2269409/ +91 9822182402

Dive Goa

A dive shop and training centre established by Ajey Patil - marine engineer, naturalist, raconteur and PADI certified dive instructor. At O’ Pescador Resort, Dona Paula,

Panjim +91 9325030110

Dolphin Sighting Trip

Four to five hours trip includes Bbq, Free beers and soft drinks. Also offers No See – No Pay policy as far as dolphin sighting is concerned. Sinquerim – Baga beach stretch +91 9822182814/+918326520190 or Email: johnsboattours@gmail.com

Goa Aquatics

Ancestral Goa

A center for Preservation & Promotion of Art, Culture & Environment started by Maendra J. A. Alvares. At Big Foot, Loutolim @ 9.30 am to 6 pm 2777034, info@ancestralgoa.com

Casa Araujo Alvares

Goa`s first automated sound and light museum. A 250 year old mansion showcasing traditional inheritance. At Loutolim @ 9.30 am to 5.30 pm 2777034

Goa Science Centre & Planetarium

Exhibits and playthings which provide means to experience and explore science while playing with them. Entertaining shows on wonders and magic of night sky @ planetarium. At Goa Science Centre, Miramar, Panjim @ 10 am to 6 pm. 2463426

Courses LANGUAGES

Alliance Francaise

Learn French courses, Panjim 2420049/ +91 9922813950

St. Britto

Big Foot Cross Museum

Houses 80 classifications of crosses of around the world. At Big Foot, Loutolim @ 10 am to 5 pm 2777034

@ Panjim, Vasco, Margao Waltz, Jive, Cha Cha-cha, Tango, Viennese Waltz, Salsa +91 9823014397

Dance for Life Academy Mapusa 9823765523

Jason and Sylvia dance academy

Hip/Hop, Bollywood, Latin American, Jazz Ballet for Kids Panjim/Mapusa 9822161652/9822151614

Snaden Shawn dance and aerobics Learn dancing Mapusa 9890163433/7798609859

Nritya Sankul

Margao 9823936483/9689468712

Asha Shivam

Odxel Beginner’s German language course

COOKING

Theresa’s Cookery Classes Margao +91 9970037242

Cooking Classes for foreigners Detroit Institute +91 9822131835.

Taengs Cookery Classes Margao. +91 9822585944

Fatima Menezes E Moniz Cooking classes, Raia. 2776035

2734589. Margao

Ethnographic museum that preserves its universality in its collections of artifacts representing the culture of ancient Goa. At Goa Chitra, Mondo-Waddo, Benaulim @ 9 am to 5 pm +91 9850466165/ 6570877, Email: goachitra@gmail.com

Dr. Martin & Dance Illusions Team

Don Bosco Provincial House

Splashdown

Goa Chitra

Monday to Saturday Viennese Waltz, Foxtrot, Cha Cha Cha, Jive, Margao. 2715906/ 9921039537

Kalangan

Cynthia Dsouza Cooking Classes

Museums

Cyrus Da Costa Dance Classes

Learn French, Mapusa 2293812/ +91 9049018214

Offers Scuba Diving Equipment retail at competitive international price. At Little Italy, Opp Tarcar Ice Factory, Calangute. +91 9822685025 Water Park that boasts of 5 pools, a variety of slides, flumes and other interesting features. At Splashdown Waterpark, CalanguteAnjuna +91 9637424023/024, 2273008,

Dance

Verna. 2783281

Bertha Pereira Cooking Classes Vandana’s Bakery Classes Caranzalem. 2462163

Meena’s Cooking Classes

Margao. 2735191 Porvorim. 2410357

Dance Illusions Panjim 9823014397

Fatima’s Ballroom Dance Classes Margao. 2786191

Maxie’s Guitar and Dance Classes Panjim. 2230178

Osler Furtado Dance Classes Porvorim. 9822481695

Simply Ballroom,

The Western Dance Academy Vasco. 2528272

Raeconz

Porvorim. 9923826572

Music

Rhythm House Margao. 2714299

Caranzalem. 2462163

Binow Zacharia music classes

GESTO Culinary & Hospitality Academy

B X Furtado and Sons

Margao, 2730873

Porvorim. 9822386385 Margao. 2715719

Branca’s Cooking Classes

Pilar Music School

David Furtado Dance & Aerobics

Bondo Percussion

Panjim. 9822131835

@ Panjim, Mapusa, Porvorim, Candolim, Aldona and Saligao. Learn Salsa, Jive Waltz for Adults & Bollywood, Hip Hop & Contemporary dance for kids. +91 9975914195

Fatima Moniz

Cooking courses, Margao. 2776035/ +91 9370275702

Pilar. 2218595

Porvorim. 6452492

Brianne Music Classes St. Cruz. 9503968920

Diniz’s Piano Practice Parlour Panjim. 2430943

Gabriel Music Classes Calangute. 9850463544

14 Cover Story

Shigmo Springs Goa to Life By Ashley do Rosario

irst we burst into a riot of colour. Then deafening cymbals, festive drums, carnival-style processions and tableaux rock our state, as Goa celebrates the festival of Shigmo or Shigmotsav. Sure, the spring festival of Holi is celebrated throughout India, and Shigmo is essentially the Goan version of it. But there is something extraordinary about this particular festival – with ancient and modern influences combining to create an explosion of artistic jubilation. Lavish parades, intricate floats, drums and brass bands are some of the outward manifestations of the celebration that began March 27 and goes on for 14 days. But the significance of Shigmo extends well beyond rituals; its unique traditions speak volumes about what Goa was like before the arrival of European colonialists, and about Goa’s identity as a post-colonial melting

Printed and published by Marisha Dutt for and on behalf of Free Voice Media Pvt Ltd at Gomantak Pvt. Ltd. Plot no. 4/4A, Corlim IDC, Tiswadi Goa, 403 110. Editor: José Lourenço. Regd. Office: 711/32, Green Hill, Socorro, Porvorim 403 501. Editorial Office : H. No. 133, Mae De Deus Vaddo, Sangolda, Bardez, Goa 403 511. (R.N.I. registration no. applied for and under process).

Thursday, March 28, 2013

pot of three great religions. Shigmo kicked off with the Gulalotsav Indeed, you don’t have to be Hindu to on Wednesday, March 27, where people have a great time during Shigmo. make merry by throwing vermillion-red The festival brings an end to a lull in and other coloured powder and spray Goa’s tourism event calendar, coming water at each other). This year, the after six weeks of the sombre Lent season Tourism Department is hoping the festival following the Carnival. will attract at least one lakh tourists to the Goa’s state government state. is leaving no stone Both Carnival and Shigmotsav schedule unturned to ensure Shigmo, as they are This year, the Shigmo Float that the festival is given celebrated in the state, Parade will be held in Goa’s the right boost and have a common feature – cities, towns and villages as momentum that will last that of village level khells per the following order: till the end of the season or impromptu street in May. plays accompanied by 28/03/2013 - Ponda Top Goan industrialist, traditional instruments 29/03/2013 - Pernem Srinivas Dempo, who and singing. has for years headed The similarities, 30/03/2013 - Panjim the Panjim Shigmotsav historians say, is a 31/03/2013 - Mapusa Committee, is all geared testament to the for the celebrations. inculturation of 01/04/2013 - Vasco “Our effort is to make Christianity in Goa, 02/04/2013 - Bicholim sure that Goa’s rich culture which adopted local 03/04/2013 - Sanquelim prevalent in the villages customs by merging them gets showcased through into Western Christian 04/04/2013 - Valpoi Shigmo so that everyone, traditions. 05/04/2013 - Curchorem including the tourists, can Tomazinho Cardozo, 06/04/2013 - Sanguem see and appreciate,” says a well-known theatre Dempo. artiste-cum-politician who 07/04/2013 - Margao Goa’s government, was Speaker of the Goa 08/04/2013 - Quepem despite being straddled Legislative Assembly in the with near empty coffers, mid-1990s, agrees. 09/04/2013 - Cuncolim has set aside nearly Rs 20 According to him, Khell10/04/2013 - Canacona million (two crores) which Tiatrs (a local Goan form it will spend on the festival of street theatre) has its through the next 14 days. origins in the age-old Shigmo celebrations. The government had spent an almost Khell was performed since the preequivalent sum on the state-sponsored Portuguese era, says Tomazinho, adding Carnival parades in major towns of Goa as that the Carnival inspired by the colonial part of its efforts to give tourism a boost turn to page 16 through the state’s ‘cultural’ extravaganza.

Cover Story 15

16 Cover Story

from page 15 rulers adopted this practice of enacting these plays for the Carnival float parades. Tomazinho also explained that the origins of the traditional Khell-tiatrs traces to neighbouring Karnataka’s classical dance Yakshagana (a dance form based on old Hindu tales). It has a narrator (Sutradhara) and Kodangi (a jester). In the government-sponsored parades of today, village-based cultural groups from across the state are invited to participate. These parades are held in all the major towns of the state and also in some villages as well. The Shigmo parades begin with a brass band reminiscent of the Maratha conquerors. It is closely followed by a series of Kunbi (considered an aboriginal Goan tribe) folk-dances performed by tribal women from Goa’s villages, bedecked in bright-coloured costumes and gold. The parade also has artistically designed tableaux, which depict various scenes picked from Hindu mythology. In Goa’s villages however, Shigmo is essentially a festival of the masses, meant to say good-bye to the winter. It is celebrated on a full moon day in March, the month of Phalguna which is the Hindu Calendar’s last month. It commences with ‘Naman’, an obeisance paid to the gods by villagers

from the ninth moon day to the full-moon day. Villagers are required to shun nonvegetarian food and all indulgences like alcohol and other intoxicants for all these days. From the 11th to the 15th moon day, many groups of villagers wear their most colourful dress and set out in a festive mood. They dance in the streets waving multi-coloured flags, cloths and dwajas (column-like red polka dotted festoons). Flute blowing and drum-beating accompany the troupes as they make their way in a procession to the village temples. There, in the temple courtyards, they dance and sing folk songs, to the beats of drums. On the 5th day of these celebrations is ‘Rang Panchami’, the day of real rejoicing which is practised differently in each village. The most common celebration of ‘Rang Panchami’, however, involves the profuse use of ‘Gulal’ (Pink-coloured powder), symbolising rejoicing. People throw ‘gulal’ at each other as a show of full-hearted greetings. According to historian Anil Naik, Shigmo is proof that Goans were a funloving people even before the European colonial powers arrived. Shigmo, according to Anil, is not just a unique form of entertainment. “Shigmo is also a cultural exhibition of Goa’s history - from time immemorial to the present day.”

Brightly coloured and decorated umbrellas, draped poles all rising in unison to the beat of the festive drums with men and women in elaborate costumes, representing various deities, are the hallmarks of the Goan Shigmo parades. “We want to ensure that Goa’s tradition and culture are brought out from the villages and shown to tourists who come here. Our job is to bring to the fore the real Goa with the Shigmo,” says Goa Tourism Minister Dilip Parulekar. The government outsources organisation of the cultural parades to committees of citizens from Goa’s towns, like the one headed by Srinivas Dempo for Panjim. The committee headed by Dempo organises by far the grandest of all Shigmo parades in Goa, with participation of maximum number of village groups from across the state, an extravaganza befitting

Panjim’s status as the state’s capital. Various folk groups consisting of women and men dancers, attired in traditional costumes, perform vibrant, traditional dances along the famed 18th June Road in Panjim. At the parade, these folk-group performances are interspersed with Romtamell - groups that move along the route dancing to traditional Goan drum beats. The grand finale of the Shigmo parade, however, is the line-up of artistically designed and beautifully lit up floats based on themes picked from the Hindu mythology. If you are in Goa this time of the year, don’t forget to make it to one of these Shigmo parades, lest you miss out on the rare opportunity to see what the real Goan culture is all about, rarely seen in the usual tourist hangouts along the coast. 

Easter Feature 17

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Easter’s Here:

Stay on the Roller Coaster

By Goa Streets

t’s as if Goa’s fun quotient were manic depressive, a kind of roller coaster ride of wild mood swings. First you have the “season” when a sizeable portion of our planet converges on this tiny state and turns it into a playground. Then you have the monsoons when the skies turn gray and businesses shut their doors. In between, you have holidays of great revelry, like Christmas and Carnival, followed by periods of extreme introspection, like Lent. Stay on the roller coaster, dear reader, as it rises to another festive peak. Bohemian dinners, all nighters at the pubs and clubs, family parties and general revelry will soon be here again. After six weeks of sombre spiritual cleansing during the season of Lent, when Goa’s famous party scene virtually comes to a standstill, this global tourist destination is gearing up to unleash another two months of what it’s best known for – partying. But first, of course, comes Holy Week, when Goa’s Christians mark Maundy Thursday, Good Friday (marking the Crucifixion of Christ) and Easter Sunday (the day Christians believe Christ resurrected) by thronging churches for prayer services. The midnight services of ‘Easter Vigil’ and Easter itself will be followed by what every Goan celebration entails – food, song and dance. This year, Holi (Shigmotsav), another big festival of Goa’s Hindu majority, coincides with the Easter season, accentuating the festive air in the state (see Cover Story). For many Goans, Easter will be a family affair – lunch with close relatives followed by a night of dance and revelry at a traditional Easter Ball. It is also a time when Goans go shop-hopping for pastries

and other Easter goodies at the busy confectionery shops. “Obviously business soars during the Week,” says Cedric Vaz who runs the decades-old ‘Mr Baker’ pastry shop in the heart of Panjim next to the Garcia de Orta garden. Easter eggs in varied sizes, hot-cross buns, cakes and a few other Easter goodies get sold briskly off the counter, he adds. For the visitor, Goa has a big dose of fun and partying for Easter, what with the scores of hotels, resorts, pubs, clubs and other night spots lining up special programs. “This Easter Sunday we open the alcohol flood gates,” announces Club Margarita to advertise the Easter event of the nightspot in Colva, a famous coastal village in South Goa. “If you were here last year, you’d know…” says Club Margarita’s manager Ashwin Gaonkar, adding it will be a night planned to go absolutely “mental”. Club Margarita, he says has DJs Ryan Nogar, Navin, Jay and Kiran lined up to rock the console for the night and Edmar Hendricks to set the mood. “With that kind of a DJ line-up, I don’t think partying can get any better,” he adds, exhorting the party crowd to drive down to South Goa for a treat of some pulsating tunes this Easter. A number of other clubs and nightspots like Club Margarita located at beach-side locations and the cities have specials planned for Easter as well. If you are down with your family and kids, there’s fun for them too. Several of Goa’s starred hotels are offering Easter events for families. The Grand Hyatt at Bambolim will host a ‘Kids Easter Party’ with fancy Easter goodies at its Confeitaria, prepared by Chef Nicole and her team. The celebrations on Easter Sunday include a special brunch and Bebo’s Kids party from 4:30 pm to 7:00 pm at the Palace Lawns, where kids can join the Easter egg hunt, decorate Easter eggs, enjoy a magic show, paint faces like their favourite character and toss around in the bouncing castle. So, get into your partying shoes and let your hair loose. Of course, if you are a devout Catholic, you might feel you have to earn all that through the mandatory soul searching and cleansing of Holy Week. If not, just party on! 

Easter Bake Fest

Bakes, Cakes & Goodies At Caculo Mall, Panjim @ 3.30 pm to 7 pm +919890009011

Grande Hyatt

Bebo’s Kids Easter Party At Bambolim, from 4.30 pm to 7 pm 0832 3011658, 7709004914

Grand Easter Sunday Brunch, At Goa Marriott, Panjim +918322463333

Easter Parties Mar 30

Magical Easter Ball

At Woodbourne Country Club, Nuvem +919326103411

Easter Pool Party

With DJ Jay At Woodbourne Resort & Country Club, Nuvem @ 3 pm. +919326103411

Easter Bash

Featuring DJs Ryan N, Rohan Peddy & Spike Spike At White House Restaurant & Bar, Dona Paula @ 8 pm +918322453839

Mar 31

Easter Party

Featuring DJs Ryan N, Navin, Jay & Kiran At Club Margarita, Colva @ 8 pm +919823259008/+918322789728

Easter Brunch

At Cafe Azul, Cidade de Goa, Vainguinim @ 12 pm +918322454545

Easter Celebration

At Hotel Grand Hyatt Goa, Bambolim @ 1 pm +918323011234

April 1

Sizzling Pool side Barbecues At Latitude, Fort Aguada beach resort, Candolim @ 7 pm +918326645858

Mar 23 to Mar 31

Goa Marriott Easter Festival

Sweets and other goodies available throughout the Easter week. At Goa Marriott, Panjim +918322463333

ARTS&ENTERTAINMENT

www.goastreets.com/arts&entertainment

Thursday, March December 28, 2013 13, 2012

Mar 28

Upto April 30

Swarasumananjali - Natyageet At Kala Academy, Panjim @ 6 pm to 10 pm +918322420450/+918322420451

Indian Classical Music At Art Escape, Benaulim @ 7.30 pm +917350400655

“The Konkani Sahitya and Bhansha Seva Awards 2012

Everyday

Ruchika’s Art Gallery

At Goa State Museum Hall, Patto, Panjim @ 5 pm +918322437385

Ruchika`s Art Gallery displays fine arts, performing arts and new forms of art. Opp. Goa Marriott Resort, Miramar. From 10.30 am to 6 pm +918322465875/ +919850571283/ +919881836400

Mar 30

Bare feet Easter Grind 2013 At G.g’s beach bar N grill, Mobor @ 9 pm

Mar 31

Classical Live Fusion

Galleria Ralino

At Guru Bar, Anjuna @ 7 pm +918322273319/ +919823383257

Mar 31

Pojisanv

At Headland Sada, Vasco +919673172391

April 2

Child’s Play (India) Foundation Presents

the Bager Trio in a benefit concert The ensemble is formed by Jonathan Bager (flute) and his sons Jeremy (bassoon) and Frederic (piano). At The Kala Academy, Panjim @ 6.30 pm

Mar 22 to April 22

An Exhibition: The Pepper Cross At Kerkar Art Gallery, Calangute @ 6.30 pm +918322276017

Feb 23 to Mar 30

Painting Art Gallery At Souza towers, Panaji +918322228370

Kerkar Art Gallery

Installations and sculptures and paintings by Dr.Subodh Kerkar. It also showcases works by contemporary artists from all over India. At Gauravaddo, Calangute From 10 am to 7 pm +918322276017

Casa Popular

At Municipal Market, Panaji +918322262135

Xavier centre of historical research

With particular emphasis on contemporary cultural and social issues affecting the State of Goa. At B B Borkar Rd, Porvorim +918322417772

Art Escape

Art Escape Goa is a knowledge sharing our of home experience through learn-bydoing workshops which include painting, Pottery, photography, theatre, dance, films, yoga, recycling & waste Management. At Art Escape, Benaulim +919892286666/+919881568756/ +919323590051

Art in the City of Sin Theodore Mesquita in Macau

By José Lourenço

he 2nd edition of “The Script Road – Macau Literary Festival” was held from March 10 to 16 at Macau, a former colony of Portugal. Script Road was backed by the Cultural Affairs Bureau of Macau and the Macau Foundation. Ponto Final, a Macau-based weekly partnered the event. The participants included writers Bi Feiyu, Hong Ying, Angolan author Jose Eduardo Agualusa, Portuguese writers Rui Zink and Ricardo Araujo Pereira, Luis Cardoso from East Timor and Brazilian writer Mauro Munhoz. Films and music were represented by filmmakers like Wiseman Wang and Ivo Ferreira, the Portuguese folk band Dead Combo, fado singer Camané and Croatian singer Ines Trickovic. Two artists-in residence exhibited their works at the Fundacao Oriente galleries: Theodore Mesquita from Goa and Chen Yu from China. Mesquita, an award winning Goan artist whose work bears strong Latin influences, was invited to the Macau festival by the Festival Director Ricardo Pinto, owner of the Ponto Final newspaper.

Goa Streets’ Editor José Lourenço caught up with Theodore Mesquita to bring you an exclusive interview on his Macau experience. JL: What is the genesis of the works you created in Macau as Artist-in-Residence? TM: The paintings are a series around the number 13. We are in 2013, and part of my Latin self, my Catholic sentimentality dwelt on the 12 Apostles, Christ being the 13th figure. These 13 protagonists exemplify 13 qualities, like beauty, love, honesty, patience, lust... Then, being in Macau, I thought of using Chinese characters in the imagery. There was a bilingual (ChinesePortuguese) magazine there, called Macau, that based its monthly theme on Chinese characters. To a lay viewer it is just a character, only the Chinese will know what it means. So my paintings are based on three elements: the protagonist, the character and a meaning-laden landmark of Macau. These iconic elements include the MGM lion (after the MGM Casino in Macau), a caravel ship, architectural landmarks and more. They

Charlie & the Music Factory Live At Art Escape, Benaulim @ 7 pm to 11 pm +919323590051

Mar 11 to April 10

Thomas Stephens Konknni Kendr Konknni Basic Course in Roman Script At Porvorim From 2.15 pm to 5.15 pm

Mar 22 to Mar 31 ‘Pop’, Art Exhibition At Gallery Gitanjali, Panjim +918322435628

Mar 27 to mar 31

The Holy Week Retreat At Pedro Arrupe Institute, Raia @ 7 pm to 8 am +918805570108

April 2 to April 4

Summer Boot Camp At Heera Farm, Pernem +919422640141

Ruins of St. Paul Church at Macau

Arts&Entertainment 19

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Gallery Gitanjali

At Opp Panaji Inn, Fontainhas From 9 am to 9 pm. +919823572035

Carpe Diem

Carpe Diem, a newly opened art and learning centre in Majorda. At Majorda From 10 am to 6 pm +918888862462

Yemanja Art Gallery Painting Art Gallery At Betim, Reis Magos +918322416930

Persian Arts and Crafts At Taj holiday village, Sinquerim +918322479016

Surya Art Gallery

Here contemporary works of canvas paintings on Goan subject and art crafts are displayed. At Bandawalwada, Pernem +919404149764/ +919422064754

Chaku Arts and Crafts Painting Art Gallery At Vaddy, Candolim +918322279039

Mario’s Art Gallery Painting Art Gallery At Chandor, Salcete +919850460095

Panaji Art Gallery

Promotes Goan Art Figurative and individual works of artists. At Panaji Art Gallery From 9 am to 8 pm. +919822168703

Jupiter Arts

At Jamundas building, Sangolda. +918322650784

Exhibition of paintings

The Gallery displays paintings on canvas of original art & international print arts. It also showcases works by contemporary artists from India & abroad. At Arte Douro Art Gallery, Calangute from 9 am to 9 pm +9183222882266 / +919822147148

Menezes Braganza hall At Ferry wharf, Panaji +918322224143

Big Foot Art Gallery

Display of works by various artists from India and abroad. At Big Foot Art Gallery, Loutolim from 9 am to 6 pm +918322777034

Moksa Art Gallery

Displays of Contemporary Art are displayed by Salvador Fernandez. At Naika Vaddo, Calangute From 9.30 am to 8.30 pm +918322281121/+919326717386

Arte Douro Art Gallery

The Gallery displays paintings on canvas of original art & international print arts. At Porba Vaddo, Calangute From 9 am to 9 pm +919822147148

Picturesque

The museum displays works of Original Art & International print arts. At near Domino’s Pizza, Panaji From 9 am to 1.30 pm & 3.30 pm to 7 pm +919822124245

Rosem villa Art Gallery At Porvorim +918322276329

are all in water, indicating my connect with water, both in my journey from Goa to Macau as well as my metaphysical journey. I am always in water. You can either swim, float or drown. I believe I must either swim or drown. Everybody else is always floating or wading. JL: What was the viewer reaction to the nudes in your work? TM: Oh, they were quite enthralled by my work. Perhaps they are not used to seeing such figurative work. I spoke of images and what they say; of cognition and association. A work of art is a half truth, completed by the viewer with his varied perception, leading to a celebration of meaning. Love and hate. That’s all you remember. I love someone. Or I hate someone. People love my paintings or hate the characters within. One of my early works Corrigendum Terminus had a blind Pope with a pockmarked face, with a fish-on-a-rope and a nude woman in water, with her hands at her back. That work provoked anger in some of my friends. They protested - how can you paint the Pope thus! The works of my fellow artist-inresidence, a Chinese artist named Chen Yu, had a sense of greyness, probably expressing a halfway mood, sensing the smell of change. JL: What was your experience of the Festival in its various genres? TM: My overall sense of the Festival was that they really went to the people. There were concerts in the City centre, at venues that were open to the public. The first days are, as is the norm at such festivals, by invite, and then the rest of the festival is open to the public. Though it was basically a Literature Festival, many other creative genres like filmmaking, music and visual arts were explored. I met Ines Trickovic, a Croatian singer

who can’t speak Portuguese well, but sings beautiful Brazilian Portuguese songs, the bossanova and samba songs of Carlos Jobim and others. I partied with Ivo Ferreira, a Portuguese director, he wants to come to Goa. The Portuguese there have a great fascination for Goa. They love the colours that we paint our houses in – red, yellow, blue, green, and the sun and the light. JL: How was your interaction with Ricardo Pinto, the Festival Director? TM: Ricardo is an idealist, a dreamer, a man with great fruitful ideas which come to being. He is full of life, and very passionate. Ricardo met me in Goa some years back. Then this year he invited me to the Script Road Festival. He is the publisher of Ponto Final and also owns a book shop and an art gallery. He is of Portuguese origin, but has lived in Macau for most of his life. There is a possibility that the Script Road Festival may extend itself to be held in Goa through the Vice Versa Foundation, if a Lusophone connect can be built. JL: Was your residence in Macau particularly inspiring for your work? TM: I find any place inspiring. Because every place has human quotient. Everywhere there is a thriving, live, cultural quotient that attracts me. My work thrives on global culture. You can’t get lost anywhere today, everywhere there is a new global corporate stamp – there is Samsung and Sony everywhere – which is rather sad in a way. The human mind is deviant, constantly seeking to gain from consumer culture. I always thought of China in terms

of Communist ideology, but there is a tremendous commercial culture there that rivals India. China is the manufacturing hub of the world. JL: How is Macau local art compared to Cuba, the country you last travelled to as an artist? TM: China and Cuba? Cuba is still stuck in time. But times are changing, and if you catch the bus, you may still get a fleeting glance. JL: What is Macau’s connection to Goa? How has Macau evolved as compared to Goa, after colonial rule? TM: Macau has nothing in common with Goa, except for the Portuguese connection. You can’t compare Goa and Macau. Goa is the mother of a million ideals. After all my travels, I feel that there is no place like Goa anywhere in the world. The Goan mind is very creative, innovative and persevering. Many Goans live in Macau, and many hold influential positions. The Editor of Ponto Final newspaper is a Goan, Paulo Rego is of Goan origin. The strange thing is that they don’t talk much about Goa. There is a sense of loss, saudade, a sad memory for those who left Goa. Children of Goan parents say their parents didn’t speak of Goa except in the past tense. Portuguese people born in the 60s and 70s are keenly aware of the Goa connection. Portuguese people who live in Macau speak English very well. All of them have a fascination and love for Goa and want to build a connect. If it were not for the Portuguese, we would not have the Goa of today, with its Iberian connection and culture that has shaped our culture and influenced our way of thinking. We were the earliest to experience a East-West interaction. Macau has changed a lot in the last 20 years, most of the buildings have come up in this time. The majority of the population is Chinese, the ethnic Macanese are barely 5 percent. But the Macanese control the economy. There are a few powerful families that are very wealthy. Chinese girls are amazing, they all have access to Pierre Cardin,Gucci, everything. Macau rivals the West in haute living. Shops are choc-a-bloc with shoppers, 99 percent of them are Chinese, they are the most well dressed, most manicured. Macau is like a City of Sin. It makes its money largely from gambling. There’s a huge commercial culture there, there are no signs of Communist austerity. In Macau you can’t even smell Mao. 

A busy avenue in Macau

20 Art

Holy Week Fervour through the illustrations of two Goan artists

s the Lenten season draws to its climax in the Holy Week, villages all over Goa draw throngs of devout faithful to church services and reenactment of the ordeals of Christ. In these images by the celebrated cartoonist Mario de Miranda and artist Theodore Mesquita, we see the personages of characters like the Vicar, the band musicians, the mestre and confraria (fraternity) members gathering for processions, sermons and eventually the celebration of the risen Christ on Easter Sunday. Illustrations by Mario de Miranda from his book Goa With Love. Illustrations by Theodore Mesquita from the book ‘Images of Goa’ by Ben Antao.

Feature 21

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Marijuana. It’s a drug. It’s illegal. And it’s super prevalent in Goa – where many folks use it the way others enjoy an after-work drink. Its recreational use in Goa’s beach belts, especially among foreigners, has been going on since the 1960s hippie heyday. It’s no secret that among the Anjuna/Vagator/Arambol crowd, a joint is as common as a Kingfisher. What’s somewhat less known, however, is its wide use among regular Goans. Below, Streets correspondent Ashley Rosario takes a look at one such user and provides some insights into his world. We’re calling him Stephen. That’s not his real name.

“S

moking weed (marijuana) makes my mind freer and lighter than usual. I feel it helps me think more clearly on serious issues in life like making career choices,” says Stephen. In his twenties, Stephen is getting trained to be a professional dancer, and does not believe that his habit affects his life in any way. “No. I don’t think so,” Stephen, into his early twenties, shoots back when asked whether his indulgence has impeded his path to achieving any goal he may have set for himself, either in academics or generally in life. Like many marijuana users, Stephen got initiated into the habit because of peer pressure. “Obviously because a few friends of mine smoked, I too began doing it,” he told Streets. Was he reprimanded or confronted by his folks when they discovered his habit? “No, not really,” he reveals, adding that it was he himself who voluntarily revealed it to his mother. “Yes, my mom did try to talk me into giving it up but I guess she’s reconciled to it now. Very recently, she (mom) even took a couple of drags from my joint,” Stephen said. “I know that use of any substance is bad for your health in the long run. But I guess it’s okay for me because I do smoke and my body can take it. Maybe when I begin

The Goan Pot Habit to feel it’s affecting my health, I may kick the habit,” he says. Stephen says he smokes pot two or three times a day. Whether that officially makes him a drug addict is a matter of debate. Addiction is a user’s compulsive need to use drugs to function normally. When deprived, the user suffers from withdrawal. Although there is no specific data or survey conducted by health authorities on drug use in Goa, the practice is prevalent among Goan youth and a significant number of visitors. One student from a reputed College in North Goa revealed that weed and other lighter drugs are commonly done by students, especially the brighter ones. But, he admits, it is all done on the sly without the knowledge of authorities, who are otherwise very strict about drugs once they discover it.

“There are a few who do the stronger, chemical stuff. But these are kids of rich parents. It’s unlikely that parents know about it,” he adds. Goa’s tryst with drugs dates back to the 1960s, to the days when the ‘flower children’, or hippies, arrived to discover the virgin Anjuna beach. There was a time in the 1970s and ’80s, when it was quite scandalous to have a family member into drugs. This doesn’t seem to be the case anymore, if Stephen’s account is anything to go by. Agrees Soter De Souza, a trained counsellor who worked for several years in drug and alcohol rehabilitation at the now defunct AshaBhavan centre in Tivim, a village in North Goa. “Drug abuse, from what I gather from various sources, has increased by leaps and bounds compared to what it was in the hippie culture days. What’s worse is

that it has gained acceptability in Goan society. People no longer get alarmed when they learn that X or Y from the neighbourhood is indulging in drugs,” Soter told Streets. Soter also lamented the lack of any significant rehabilitation centre for drug addiction in Goa. “Even the one run in Mapusa by the government has shut down. The one at Anjuna run by Kripa Foundation has high fees for admission and is beyond reach of many,” Soter adds. Although the use of banned substances has attained some level of tolerance and acceptability in society over the decades, the authorities haven’t altered their view since 1985, when the first anti-drug law (Narcotic Drugs and Psychotropic Substances Act) was enacted in the country. Penalties for drug possession and trafficking are stiff in India – generally 10 years in prison for any drug listed under the act, including marijuana. If you’re caught with fewer than 100 grams of marijuana, the fine is Rs 1 lakh and a prison term of six months. Marijuana and hashish are plentiful in Goa, along with other drugs including ecstasy, cocaine, LSD, magic mushrooms, Ketamine and, to a lesser extent, heroin. Recently, the federal government has begun talking of the need to check a seemingly “alarming rise” of drug abuse in the country, and formed a committee to help devise a new national policy. For better or worse, Goa may well find itself at the centre of these new efforts.

22 Feature

The last weaver Paliem artisan keeps a dying art alive

is rotated. Each rotation produces a length equal to the circumference of the wheel. So the number of rotations will determine the length of the material. This procedure is repeated 27 times to get a width of 27 inches which the kastti requires. This way Tilve

By Pantaleao Fernandes

f one ventures into a coastal village, the chances of spotting a coconut plucker or a toddy tapper going about their business of climbing coconut trees are high. However what’s missing is the good old Kastti, a red and white loin cloth. If you ask around, you will find that this traditional loin wear is no longer available in the market. So the hunt for the Kastti maker leads all the way to Pernem taluka, to the village of Paliem. Everybody knows the weaver in this village, and the house is easily located. As I near Baburao Babji Tilve’s workshop, I am greeted with a gentle rhythmic dakdak-dak, dak-dak-dak sound. And coming face to face with the traditional weaver feels as if time has been pushed back across several decades! I have travelled to most villages in Goa, and this is the only handloom weaver I have ever met. There he is sitting on a stool transferring long lengths of thread onto

small spools using a spinning chakra that could well have been from Mahatma Gandhi’s era! The Father of the Nation was well known for espousing this handloom to create khadi cloth, a strategy to defy the textile monopoly of the British rulers. The chakra thus embodies a noble and noteworthy Indian tradition, one that Baburao, being one of the last weavers, is keeping alive. Once the spools are full, he leaves the chakra aside and arranges the spools on the sidi, a ladder-like grid. Tilve then picks one string at a time, its colour depending on the sequence of design of the cloth and passes it through a giant comb. For the simple kastti that is being created, each inch requires 28 strings to be pulled through 28 notches of the comb. The ends of these 28 strings are tied in a knot before the strings are arranged on the rath (wheel) which

organizes the horizontal threads and this arrangement is wound on a piece of wood to form a beam (spool). The spool is transferred to the hatmag (handloom) where its longitudinal threads are interwoven with vertical strings using the babbin and a series of hand movements which produce a rhythmic dak-dak-dak, dak-dak-dak sound. Magically, the cloth gets created right in front of our eyes, its red earthy colour looking very vibrant. Once the beam runs out, the process ends. The

length of the beam depends on the quantities of kastti that are required to be produced. Speaking about his tradition Baburao Tilve, who is in his late fifties, opens up, “My father was a successful commercial weaver and I learnt the skills of weaving and design as his apprentice since my childhood. A huge demand for products like the kastti (loin cloth), valo (small towel), tuvalo (towel), chador (bed sheet), and the traditional gaudda sari ensured that my father had plenty of work not only for himself but for a horde of workers as we operated many handlooms.” He continues, “The Liberation of Goa opened the floodgates of India and cheap cloth woven by power looms around India made their appearance in Goa. The demand for locally produced handloom cloth diminished. Since the last two decades, we have been literally pushed out of our trade. The last decade has been the worst. I have shut off all the other hatmag and operate only one using a little help from my brother.” Baburao’s sons now help keep the home fires burning. Even though operating the handloom does not make economic sense, day after day, the hatmag weaves out its earthly red kastti. Only Tilve could explain the reasons, “This is a labour of love. The hatmag is my very life, the love for it runs in my blood. I can’t just give it up. I do it to pass my time, I do it out of passion, I do it out of love, and I’ll do it as long as I live!” 

Literature 23

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Fiction

Priscilla’s Nose By José Lourenço

“W

hen the sinus cavities in your head get infected, the fluid in them exerts pressure outward and they ache,” said Dr.Costa gently pressing Michael’s forehead with his fingers. Dr.Costa’s eyes sat deep in their sockets as if trying to distance themselves from the spectacles that perched precariously on the edge of his nose. They were greatly helped by the fact that Dr.Costa’s nose itself stretched out interminably from his face like a rocky ledge jutting out from a cliff, threatening to break off anytime and plunge to the floor of the clinic. The large nose truly dominated Dr.Costa’s face. Michael thought he resembled an escaped circus clown masquerading as the doctor, not having entirely succeeded in getting rid of his bulbous nose. Perhaps the real Dr.Costa with the normal nose was tied up in one of the medicine cupboards. “Priscilla!” the doctor called out. A young nurse entered the examination room. Dr.Costa rose and went to his cabin, leaving Michael to be attended by her. “I’m going to show you how to put nose drops, okay?” the nurse smiled. Michael nodded from his chair. She went to a cabinet to pick out a small bottle and returned to sit in a chair facing him. She was slim and clinically dressed and when she sat, the hem of her starched white uniform rose precisely to the midpoint of her knees. She also smiled clinically, Michael thought. Not severely, but clinically, as though her thoughts lay elsewhere and only her face went about its clinical duties. Perhaps the real Priscilla was also tied up in one of those medicine cabinets. “How do you usually put these drops?” she asked, offering him the bottle. Michael leaned his head back and positioned the tiny nozzle over his nostrils. He then carefully squeezed off a drop. The inner lining of his nose tingled in anticipation as usual, and when the drop fell his head slightly shuddered in tickled pleasure. He remained in that position for a few seconds. “No, that’s not the right way,” she intoned taking the bottle from him. Michael looked at her through slightly watery eyes and decided that her

cheekbones were quite striking. High cheekbones always brought drama to a face. They drew attention to her eyes which however weren’t entirely there. The soft black-brown orbs seemed to be clinical in their absence. ‘Watch how it should be done.” She leaned her head back as Michael had done and eased a drop into her nose. Michael made two observations almost simultaneously. Her neck was one of the most beautiful he had ever seen. A slim ridge rose above the abyss of her cleavage, soaring from the dip between her collarbones to the curving cliff of her chin. And her nose. Small, pert and perfectly formed. Her nostrils, barely slits at its base, were now visible to him. They flared slightly, parting to receive the nose drops. The drops fell and he watched a flush spreading around her neck followed by an almost imperceptible twitch of her bosom. He smiled at the lovely sight and felt a warmth rise in his own belly. Then she suddenly leaned forward and bowed her head, keeping her face inclined downward. Her head was now poised just above Michael’s lap and an instant surge of electricity swept through his groin and blew through his brain. Then again, just as abruptly, she lifted her head and sat back, flushed pink with the rush of blood to her face. “The drops must enter the sinus cavities in your forehead and below your eyes, okay?” she explained, her lips still reddened. “Else they will just go down your throat and not reduce your nasal congestion in any way.” Michael nodded dumbly, his heart still pounding. “Now, when you blow your nose, how do you normally do it?” she asked Michael, leaning forward again. He pinched both nostrils with a thumb and forefinger. “No no, that’s wrong,” she shook her head. He saw that her ears were small and as perfect as her nose. They stood out shamelessly naked, clad only in a pair of earrings that clung to them, being too small to dangle. She pressed her forefinger to one side of her nose and blew gently through the

other nostril. He felt her delicate breath on the hair of his forearms. Then she released her finger and did the same to the other side. She repeated the demonstration, blowing gently through alternate nostrils. “Never blow by pressing both nostrils at the same time,” she warned. “That pressure can drive the infectious bacteria deeper into the throat.” Then she suddenly stopped speaking and just looked at Michael. He watched as she seemed to struggle to control some emotion or sensation. Her cheeks flushed and her perfectly formed nose quivered. She parted her lips and closed them again. She remained that way for a few seconds, with watery narrowed eyes, a hand poised in midair, her open mouth and upturned nose trembling and waiting. And then she sneezed. It wasn’t a loud deafening roar like his father’s, nor was it a long squeal like his sister’s with a smaller squeak rebounding at the end. It wasn’t even a cough sneeze like his own. It was a ‘kchickk’ sneeze. She suppressed the full impact of her nasal explosion, causing her face to turn red,

her cheeks and ears ablaze. She had barely recovered when her nose quivered again. She shut her eyes, clamped her thighs together and sneezed again. And again. And again. Her body jerked helplessly in her chair as sneeze after sneeze rocked her. Dr.Costa turned his head from the journal he was reading and frowned. Priscilla finally slumped in her chair and smiled sheepishly at Michael. A few strands of hair had come loose from her tight bun and hung disheveled across her forehead. A few droplets from her had sprinkled on his face and hands, but he made no attempt to wipe them. She tucked in her stray locks, smoothened her dress and picked the bottle of nose drops from the floor. She wiped her eyes and then pressed a tissue to her wet nostrils, dabbing at them carefully to avoid another wave of tickles. As Michael walked down the stairs, he could not stop thinking of Priscilla. He remembered her while gargling his throat that night and also thought of her as he blew his nose before going to bed. 

24 Hot Streets

He won’t wear my ring Dear Acaricia May I have been married for over 22 years now, and one thing about my husband has always puzzled me. He is a very loving spouse, takes good care of me and our kids and has a great sense of humour. But the thing that baffles me is that he simply refuses to wear his wedding ring. He wore it for a few months after we got married, and then stopped wearing it. He says he feels uncomfortable wearing it. He doesn’t wear any other rings either. For some months some years back, he even stopped wearing a watch! He doesn’t suffer from any skin allergy. Why does he not want to wear the wedding ring that I gave him? I always wear mine faithfully. Do you think he doesn’t want to be marked as unavailable or, worse yet, could he be having an affair? Juanita, Mapusa.

The

Corner

Dear Juanita

A ring does not a relationship make. If he is a good man, he is worth his weight in gold, ring or no ring. Unless he’s given you other concrete reasons to doubt his faithfulness, perhaps the actual reason behind his no-ring policy could be more benign. Lots of people, have a phobia for rings or, for that matter, jewellery of any kind. Sufferers of this kind of claustrophobia can go to the extent of even avoiding crash helmets! Some persons irrationally worry that their fingers may start swelling up if they wear rings. If you really feel strongly about this, however, you may want to choose the right moment and let him know. Don’t pick a time when you’re arguing or

there’s tension in the air. Find a loving moment, perhaps when the two of you are cuddling in bed. The conversation could go something like this. “Sweetie, I know you love me and I love you. But when you leave the house without your wedding ring – a symbol of our bond – it makes me feel you don’t want other women out there to think you’re married. I wear my wedding ring as a badge of

honour, a sign for the whole world to see that I share my life with you. Could you do the same for me?” Maybe that’ll do the trick and get that ring back on Mr. Naked Finger’s hand. However, there’s something else you need to keep in mind, Juanita. A wedding ring does not guarantee a stray-free husband. In fact, lots of women out there are more attracted to men with wedding rings, especially those looking for a good time without major commitments. Anyway, if it really is the ring he hates, you could try something else. How about a tattoo with your name? If you take this option, don’t put it on his forehead! Love, Acaricia May If you have questions about love, relationships and sex, write to Acaricia May at acariciamay@goastreets.com

Cool summer therapies At Sukho Thai

ukho Thai, Mumbai’s most popular foot spa, launched 3 outlets in Goa by December 2012 and is gaining a strong foot hold here. This summer, Sukho Thai offers the cool new summer special foot therapies which includes the ravishing ‘mango scrub’ therapy and the revitalizing ‘Signature’ Thai therapy. The rejuvenating Mango scrub therapy is a first of its kind exotic fruit-based therapy. It boasts of providing natural benefits from the seasonal fruit, a rich source of vitamin A. It’s priced at Rs 3000 and the 90-minute therapy includes fifteen minutes of foot scrub with the mango extract, followed by 45 minutes of Thai foot massage and 30 minutes of back, head and shoulders massage. Exotic fruits served after therapy tickle your taste buds and flush the toxins away. The oils, fragrances and the slip on footwear and change over therapy pants are all made and imported from Thailand especially for Sukho Thai guests. The first outlet is at Calangute beach road and Sukho Thai has two more outlets, one at Baga and the other in Tito’s Lane again in Baga. The fourth outlet in Goa will shortly come up near Panjim. Sukho Thai is India’s largest foot massage spa chain, operational since September 2010 with its first outlet in Mumbai. It has gained popularity in

quick time among patrons who battle stress and a busy lifestyle. The word ‘Sukho’ is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘Sukh’ which stands for happiness and ‘Thai’ is adapted from Thailand. Sukho Thai Founder and Director Mr Shailesh Patil says: “Hours of dancing till the wee hours of morning can create a lot of stress for the body. Our feet hold the key to relaxation. Sukho Thai Therapies are thus best suited as they help relax, rejuvenate and also sooth the senses. Sukho Thai has also introduced exciting offers. You can walk into any outlet on a ‘Lucky Wednesday’ and avail the ‘buy one get one free’ offer on any 60-minutes therapy. There also are special ‘happy hours’ on weekdays from Monday to Friday (12 to 5 pm) with 20% discount on MRP at the Goa outlets. It also has the ‘gift cards’ which can be booked online or through their outlets across the city that can be gifted to friends, relatives and colleagues.These can also be ordered online through www.sukhothai.in and start from as little as Rs.890 onwards. The Corner is a regular space where organizations, enterprenuers and all those with noteworthy projects can “strut their stuff.”

Judges at the Signature Dish Competition held by Hotel Fidalgo.

One of the prize winning dishes

USEFUL STUFF www.goastreets.com

Thursday, March 28, 2013 Police 100 Ambulance 108 Coast Guard 1718 Women Helpline 1091 Goa State Aids Control Society 1097 Child Helpline 1098

Airline Offices Air Arabia Airlines 9225906416/15 Indian Airlines 18001801407 Air India 2431100/04 Jet Airways 1800225822 Spice Jet 18001803333 Kingfisher Airlines 18002093030 GoAir 1800222111 Singapore Airlines 2438813 Qatar Airlines 7930616000 Ambulance Services Goa Medical College 2458725 Vintage Ambulance +91 8322232533 /+91 9823059948 Ambulance Trust (Margao) 2731759/2714464 Mapusa Ambulance Service (Mapusa) 2262372 Helpline (Dona Paula) 2453303 Super markets Magsons Super Market Miramar, St Inez, Caculo Mall, Caranzalem, Vasco, Verna and Varca

2463700/2463701/2463702 Orchard Stores Anjuna. 2273231 Newton’s Arcade Candolim. 2489056 Delfinos Super Stores, Candolim, 2356895 / 5235685 Maple Leaf Supermarket Porvorim, 6454099 Parsekar Stores Mandrem, 0832 2247345/2247900

Pharmacies Jeevan Rekha Medical Store Panjim. 2435946 Holy Spirit Medical Services Margao. 2737433 Bardez Bazaar Mapusa. 2256620/2250618 Walson & Walson Calangute. 2276366 Nayana Medical Stores Porvorim. 2417818

Department of Tourism 2438750/2438755 Goa Tourism Development Corporation Ltd 2226515/2226728 Govt. of India Tourism 2223412/2420529 Panjim Information Counter 2438520 Margao Information Counter 2715204 Vasco Information Counter 2512673

Bus Services Kadamba Road Transport Corporation 133 Kadamba Transport Corporation 2438034/2438036 Manish Volvo 2444056 Paulo Travels 2438531 Neeta Volvo 2438088

Police stations Margao 2705095 Mapusa 2262231 Pernem 2201233 Anjuna 2273233 Calangute 2278284 Porvorim 2417704 Old Goa 2285301 Ponda 2313101 Colva 2788396 Vasco Harbour 2512234 Verna 2782325 Canacona 2633357

Railway Stations Canacona Code:CNO +918322643644 Madgaon Code:MAO +918322712790 Pernem Code:PERN +918322201283 Thivim Code:THVM +918322298682 Vasco de Gama Code:VSG +918322512398/+918322512131 Karmali Code:KRMI +918322285798

Medical and Hospitals Dial-A-Doctor (Toll Free) 1911 Blood Bank 2458724 Vrundavan Hospital, Mapusa +918322250022/+918326713535 Apollo Hospital Margao. 2728888/ 6728888 Manipal Hospital Panjim. 3048800 Vintage Hospital Panjim. 2426650

Dance, theatre workshop At Fundação Oriente

undação Oriente is hosting a workshop of contemporary dance and theatre which will be conducted by Diniz Sanchez on April 4 and 5 from 5.30 pm to 7.30 pm at the Fundação’s premises at Fontainhas, Panjim. Participants will work towards identifying their personal ways of expression, maybe discovering an individual vocabulary, by doing several exercises / games that will make them travel into their own imagination, and sharing it with others. The work will be contextualized by using as a common reference in the paintings of the artist António Xavier Trindade, and the permanent exhibition dedicated to his work at Fundação Oriente. At the end of the workshop, and for those interested in participating, there will be a public performance. Participants might even work on a specific “personal” character, as Diniz Sanchez is working on SPICY TUTUBOY, a performing alter-ego with whom he has been working for several years – he obeys no rules: his only aim is to express his ideas in the most trans-disciplinary way possible and talks about identity issues. The Workshop is free and open to anyone interested. Registration is by request up to April 1 and the number of participants, is limited. Contact Tel : 2230728/2436108/9422062277 or email foriente@ dataone.in to register.

Post Offices Panjim GPO 2223706 Margao 2715791 Mapusa 2262235 Calangute 2276030

Safety Information Tourist Police Booths Miramar 2464260 Tourist Police Booths Calangute 2281238 Tourist Police Booths Vagator 2274031

DreamZ Spa and Salon At Campal, Panjim @ 10 am to 9 pm +918322223628 Sukho Thai -The Thai Foot Spa At Calangute @ 11 am to 11 pm +918326511265 Sohum Spa At Royal Orchid Beach Resort & Spa, Utorda @ 9.30 a to 10 pm +918322884400/ +918322884401

Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa

At Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa, Arossim beach, Cansaulim +918322721234/ +919923207075 edra.godinho@hyatt.com goa.park.hyatt.com

Experience Kerala’s therapeutic wealth at Sereno Spa

his summer, surrender yourself to the mystical healing of ancient South Indian traditions as highly skilled therapists from the cradle of Ayurveda -VasudevaVilasam, Thiruvanthapuram Kerala visit Park Hyatt, in Arrossim, South Goa. For the first time ever, this ancient system of medicine founded by the late Sri N VasudevanUnni, the Palace physician for the Maharaja of Travancore has been brought to Goa, to enhance the wellness experience at Sereno Spa. ‘Keraleeya Ayurveda’, is the world’s oldest system of healing and uses age-old secret formulations and skill unique to physicians from VasudevaVilasam. Some treatments include the Thailadhara, where dosha specific herbal oil is poured continuously in an even stream on the forehead to pacify and calm the mind, the

Earth Hour 2013

ivanta by Taj in Panjim joined in the worldwide movement - Earth Hour 2013 – the global environmental awareness event created by World Wildlife Fund (WWF) as various sections of the hotel switched off power from 8:30 pm to 9:30 pm. To set the mood right for Earth Hour, the hotel served green mocktails as a welcome drink, and green starters at Tease – its high energy bar. MsChitraSaleem, the property’s general manager, shared with resident guests the hotel’s initiatives for the earth hour on Saturday, March 23 and invited them to participate. The hotel’s back office lights and computer were also

Podikizhy massage is a full-body massage with herbal powders that help relieve neurological disorders, rheumatism and arthritis; the Udwarthanam is a special therapeutic form in which firm pressure is applied with the constant flow of upward strokes which rejuvenates the body, and the KeraleeyaPizichil, a treatment designed to build immunity by continuously applying lukewarm herbal oils all over the body by two therapists in a traditional rhythmic manner. Summer is the perfect season to experience Ayurvedic healing, as the high humidity helps to open up pores and the medicinal oils get easily absorbed by the body. All this and more can be experienced in the tranquil surroundings of the award-winning Sereno Spa. For reservation call +91 832 2721234 switched off and UPS lights were used instead. The lobby, high energy bar Tease and the all-day dining restaurant Latitude looked spectacular in their candle-lit avatars. During the Earth Hour, senior management of the hotel interacted with guests on the initiative. Earth Hour is a global grassroots movement encouraging individuals, businesses and governments around the world to take positive actions for the environment, and to celebrate their commitment to the planet by switching off lights for one designated hour. Vivantaby Taj have stylish and sophisticated hotel properties which deliver premium hotel experiences. It currently has 26 hotels and resorts in India and the Indian Ocean region.

Sujata Noronha conducting a ‘Read-Aloud’ session with kids.

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Goa Streets wishes its readers

a very Happy Holi & a peaceful Holy Week Goa The News & Entertainment Weekly