issue No 42 by Goa Streets

Battle of the Bands • pg 3

Surviving Lean Season • pg 11

Feather s and Fur • pg 15

Beauty and the Figure Goan Art Unclad

pg 12

Goa and Caste pg 19 • Spurious Alcohol pg 21 • Soulful Sufi pg 22

Thursday, August 22, 2013

streetspicks

Monsoon Whisky Nights Unlock the secrets of single malts with a whisky connoisseur on rainy evenings. Every Wednesday, listen to talented artists perform live music for you while you try out the finest drink in the world. Brought to you by Goa Streets and Malts n Wines! At Malts n Wines, Near Baga Bridge, Baga On August 28 @ 8 pm onward Mamata: +91 9763711180; Althea: +91 8698694319

Saturday Night Live With Noxious Ire Presented by Art Escape and Goa Streets, the 15th week of the Live Music Project will host Noxious Ire (made up of vocalist/ guitarist Ashwin Cardoso, bass guitarist/vocalist Glenn Dias and drummer Jonathan Dias), a band that plays progressive rock, blues, funk and more. Entry is free for all. At Tawa Resto-Bar, Baywatch Resort, Sernabatim Beach Road, Colva On August 24 @7:30 pm onward +91 9323590051/9881568756

Backyard One of the main attractions of The Backyard (apart from its steaks and chops) is its music, courtesy in-house artist Alexis Reed. Wednesdays are usually band nights, Thursdays are dedicated to the blues & jazz, Fridays are for retro music and Saturdays belong to the band Rhythm & Blues. Monday evenings see a lot of action with guests bringing the house down with karaoke sessions. Impromptu ladies’ nights are also organised once a while. At House #248, Bella Vista, Sangolda, Bardez @ 7 pm – 12 am +91 9823593872

Sexy Saturdays At SinQ Regarded as one of the best beach clubs in India, SinQ features a restaurant-lounge, dance floor, 4 bars, a poolside lounge area and a balcony overlooking the pool area. Saturday nights here begin early at 10 pm with resident DJs Rinton and Mr E & guest DJs Joel and Navin in charge of the music. If you love commercial, deep house and EDM, check out SinQ. Entry for ladies is Rs 500 and for couples Rs 1,500. Opposite Taj Holiday Village, Candolim @10 pm – 3:30 am +91 9552100700

August 22

Thursday Night Live @ The Sofala

Brazilian blues harp sensation Gruto Souza will be jamming live with Smoking Chutney (made up vocalist Chrystal Farrell, guitarist Benoy Rai, keyboardist Sancho Menezes, bassist Colin D’Cruz and drummer Dennis Coelho) of this Thursday at the Sofala. At The Sofala, Bhattiwaddo, Nerul @ 8:30 pm – 11:30 pm +91 7774008822

Battle of the Bands DJs and Dancers Were The Big Attraction By Jonah Rogues

ndependence Day is normally associated with traditional ceremonies and speeches where politicians and bureaucrats sing out their own praises, that is, if they are not busy taking jibes at their foes. The people of Goa, however, decided to celebrate freedom in a way they know best – by partying! SLIPDISC once again played host to the Battle events, where musicians, singers, DJs and dancers came together to compete for the ultimate battle prize. It has been 11 years since SLIPDISC first laid the platform for various artists to showcase their skills and compete on the big stage. What initially began as a concept to pull in crowds for live music has today evolved into a complete package of head-banging, dancing and crooning. Bob Marley once said the most beautiful thing about music is that when it hits you, you feel no pain. The hundreds of youngsters who came to the party on Independence Day proved his words absolutely true. Turn to page 5

music & nightlife | 03 Battle of the Bands

lowdown | 06 food | 08 Swissotel’s North Cafe

Everyday

Every Thursday

Enjoy 25% discount on all beverages& a buy one get one free special offer. Happy hours, happier moments! At Capiz Bar, Grand Hyatt, Bambolim Beach @ 7 pm – 9 pm +91 832 3011125

Music, games & barbeque! At Soul Souffle, Verna @ 7 pm – 10 pm +91 832 2782100/9764694321

Happy Hours

feature | 11 Getting through the lean monsoon

Club Ianos

cover story | 12 Nude art in Goa

arts & entertainment | 15 Artist Carl D’Silva

Mondays and Tuesdays are for commercial club and house music. Wednesdays are dedicated to the ladies, while Fridays and the weekend are for the hottest hip-hop and EDM tracks. At Calangute, Baga Road @ 8:30 pm – 3 am +91 832 6528283

Thursday Grill & Games

Every Saturday

Funky Saturdays At Butter

A lot of youngsters can be seen hanging out at Butter for its Funky Saturdays where everything – from the music to the dress code and even guests’ hairstyles – have to be funky. At Butter, Gera Emporium, EDC Patto Plazza, Panjim @ 8 pm onward +91 8308838888

Exclusive Saturdays

Zuperb

feature | 18 Diamonds

Sing and swing with Nelly to jazz, retro & the season’s popular tracks on ‘Zuperb Tuesdays’. On Friday nights, the vibrant duo of Jonathan and Nashvin get guests into the weekend mode with the ‘Music Fever’ theme. Gauravaddo, Holiday Street, Calangute @12 pm – 12 am +91 9869076107/ 9820134503/ 9833156510

Every Tuesday

feature | 19

Country Rock Night

Marriage by caste

hot streets | 20 Spark gone out of marriage

Country rock music fans can enjoy an evening of country rock music with Café Mojo’s Country Rock Nights. At Cafe Mojo Pub & Bistro, Panjim @ 8 pm onward +91 832 2426666

Every Wednesday Wednesday Nights

With their frequent gigs, DJs David &Ashley entertained hordes of people with their act. Now they join hands together to make the crowds groove to their songs every Wednesday. The fun begins early at Kamaki. At Kamaki, Baga @ 7:30 pm onward +918322276520/ 9923093408

feature | 21 Fake booze

Cosmopolitan Ladies Night

event | 22 Sufi Magic

Free Absolut Cosmopolitan cocktails all night long exclusively shaken & stirred for the fairer sex. At Butter, Patto, Panjim @ 8 pm onward +91 8308838888

Groove to the mixes of DJs Cris, Rosh, Milad, Xavier and Melroy. At F Cube, Calangute @ 9 pm – 3 am +91 832 2275796/9822176572

Ongoing

Pickled Mango

It has a different menu every night where music is concerned. Monday: Karaoke time with Bonny; Tuesday: Music by Jus’ Leo n Zie; Wednesday: Grill Nite with Music fever; Thursday: Rock n Retro by Country Joe; Friday: Dance your blues away with Party Creation; Saturday: Rio Festival with Crossroads Band; Sunday: Live entertainment with Hyden and Natasha. @ Resort Rio, Arpora @ 7:30 pm – 10:30 pm +91 832 2267300

Souza Lobo

Oldest restaurant on Calangute Beach with live music in the evenings. Nelson & Leo perform on Mondays & Thursdays with Leo performing solo on Tuesdays & Fridays. Wednesdays see one-man band Lui on the mic. Victor & Sol perform on Saturdays and Valentino on Sundays. At Calangute Beach @ 8 pm onward +91 832 2281234

Thursday, August 22, 2013

From page 3

Reviving Sitar In Goa

As it usually happens in most parts of Goa, the holiday crowds took their time to assemble, but when they did it was a riot of sorts. The Battle of the DJs that kicked off the event saw nearly a dozen contestants spin and scratch as they got the crowd wild and dancing. DJ Anthony, DJ Yelston and DJ Pawann were adjudged the top three DJs for the night. “It is an incredible feeling to be acknowledged on this stage, since I have been working very hard for this moment and it was an absolute blast,” Anthony said. Danish and Yelston were seen jumping to the

beats long after the competition was over – a testimony to the fact that for these professional artists, this was more than just the competition. Much before the dance floor came alive, the crowd was treated to some soulful singing in the Battle of the Stars – a solo singing competition wherein contestants brought to life songs sung by Ronan Keating, Adele, Labyrinth, and others. With a voice as powerful as Adele’s and moves that would certainly impress Shakira, it wasn’t a surprise when Kris Saldanha was declared winner. Contestants Renea and Nikhil were named runners-up in the Battle of the

By Puja Roy @AriAsher

When news of the demise of India’s sitar maestro Pandit Ravi Shankar broke in December last year, it seemed as if the whole world was mourning in unison. And rightly so. The legendary musician was responsible, almost single-handedly, for bringing the musical beauty of the sitar from the borders of the Indian subcontinent to the rest of the world. That was the beginning of Indian classical music getting global recognition and opening up a new paradigm for Indian classical musicians. Not many people may be aware, but Goa has been home to many talented sitar players who have represented the state at international levels and received global recognition. Most noteworthy among them is Abdul Karim Khan, son of Sitar Ratna Rahimat Khan of the Bande Ali Khan Gharana. Currently, there are only a handful of trained sitarists carrying forward the practice of traditional Hindustani classical music in Goa. Foremost among them is Yograj Naik, a disciple of Abdul Karim Khan. Over the past decade, Mr Naik has been conducting free sitar classes at his residence, continuing the traditional guru-shishya parampara. As of now, Mr Naik has 15 students from Goa, India and around the world training under him. For the past three years, South Goa-based alternate art and cultural platform Art Escape has been running a weekly music series called the ‘Revival of Sitar & Indian Classical Music’ in Goa along with Mr Naik. During season time, classical musicians from all over India perform at the Art Escape Eco Hotel on Mondays. Recently, the partners decided to take a further plunge in reviving classical Indian music and launched The Revival of Sitar Project. The aim of this project is to inspire children between 10 – 16 years of age to develop a taste for Hindustani classical music and to introduce them to traditional music forms, with sitar as one of the instruments. Goa Streets is proud to be Art Escape’s Media Partner in its various musical projects! For any revival project, outreach and awareness are important tools to spread the message. The Revival of Sitar Project intends to visit schools all over Goa (targeting students from Classes V – X) and conduct workshops and sessions to encourage students to learn the sitar. Yograj Naik and Art Escape have approached the state government, particularly the Art and Culture Department, to be associated with the programme. They have also held informal talks with the Director of the Art and Culture Department, Prasad Lolayekar. Vinesh Iyer, Cofounder of Art Escape, says “This is a three-year project. We hope the government supports us. Since it is a large project, it will need to be sanctioned by the State Assembly and go through other official processes. In the meantime, we’re also looking at alternated modes of funding and have already approached three Goa-based corporates for the same.” Vinesh adds that if The Revival of Sitar Project gains momentum and is successful, the state government may look into reviving other classical art forms of Goa. 

Stars. The Battle of the Bands, which was supposed to be the biggest event, in the end was not the day’s main attraction. Fewer bands participated than in previous years and, by admission of the event’s organizer Keith Fernandes, “the quality of the bands has gone down”. Still, five bands competed for the grand prize of Rs 10,000, including Ivory Trail, Magical Rhythms, Manual Transmissions and Infinites. In the end, a fine rock band called Inferno was adjudged the winner. “The entries for the DJ & Group Dance events are becoming more popular. I mean, Goa has always been big on the DJ bit. But with so many dance/singing competitions on national TV these days,

we are seeing many entries for these events. This year, we had 11 groups from all over Goa for the dance event,” explains Fernandes. Indeed, the Battle of the Dance Floor provided for an epic climax with the crowd gathering around the troupes cheering them on. The dance groups didn’t let the crowds down at all, keeping the tempo up all throughout. “Just when you thought you had seen the best performance for the night, the next group would just come and blow your mind away. Very impressed and proud of the talent we have in Goa,” said one of the judges, Alister Gomes, who heads the Dance for Life dance academy. 

6 The Lowdown

Extreme Trekking in Goa Where the Action Is By Sanket Sharma The rains arrived a while back and will be gone soon enough. So, folks, maybe it’s (high) time you got out of the house and on to something that not only makes you healthy, but happy too – before this year’s lovely monsoon becomes history. Trekking works on a lot of levels. It keeps you fit, gives you something to do in the monsoon, makes you feel at one with nature and it’s cheap. Goa might be the smallest state of the country, but it has the largest land-to-forest ratio. And, of late, trekking has become quite the trend here. As the demand increases, so will the supply. Slowly but surely, organised trekking/ hiking tours are starting to become stable businesses. To make your task easy, and hopefully, fun, I’ve compiled a list of some ‘extreme’ trekking trails that are sure to exhilarate you. Chorla Ghat (North Goa) Chorla Ghat has numerous trekking trails and waterfalls in its vicinity. A two-hour drive from Panjim (56 km) takes you to the foothills of the ghats that boast some beautiful waterfalls like Mangeli, Karavati and Talatri. Reaching Mangeli isn’t particularly easy. There are road signs to guide you to your destination, but it is advisable to carry a good map and/or GPS. The trek to the waterfalls is an amazing spectacle filled with rare birds, animals, trees, hills and green grass. The waterfall gets some visitors during the monsoon, but usually isn’t crowded. The trek to Karvati Waterfall is a little more difficult, not just for the distance, but also the terrain. A 13-km walk from Sada village, it goes uphill first and then gets steeper and steeper. But once atop the hill, you feel like you’re among the clouds and the view is spectacular. From here, you start trekking downhill where the trail finally leads you to Karavati. The smell of water and wet earth fills the air from afar. During the rains, however, don’t get too close to the waterfall, as the pressure is too much.

Netravali (South Goa) About 83 km away from Panjim, (a 2-hour drive), Netravali is one of the most beautiful and scenic places in all of Goa and has some of the most-visited trekking trails and waterfalls in its vicinity, including Pali, Savari and Mainapi. Pali is one of the most beautiful treks in Goa. Here, you can go right down to the waterfall and enjoy the water’s perfect pressure. A 4-km walk through the forest will lead you here, with huge trees accompanying you along the way. A major part of the trek is uphill, but is easily achievable even by amateurs. The Savari and Mainapi waterfalls are located nearby, surrounded with dense forests where you can smell the earth and leaves. Wild animals, insects and poisonous trees grow in the wild here. It is therefore advisable to go with an experienced trekker if you’re visiting for the first time. Valpoi (North Goa) A small city located in North Goa, Valpoi is around 43 km from the capital (about a one-and-a-half-hour long drive). Hivrem, Kumthal and Charvane are the known trails here. Hivrem is a beautiful and offbeat trail – a paradise for professional trekkers and hikers. The terrain and distance are challenging, but fun. It is 14 km away from Valpoi. A one-way walk is around 9 km. It takes

about a whole day to conquer this beast. To reach the waterfalls, you have to cross paths with slippery rocks, thorns and bushes, small streams and muddy roads. It’s not all that difficult, but generally not recommended to beginners. Kumthal is a small waterfall in the same region. The trail to this destination is quite easy. A flat route of about 4 km is all you need to cover. The waterfall is surrounded by a stream (which makes it different from the others) and hence worth visiting. Charvane is another waterfall of this region. A little longer and little more difficult to cover than Kumthal, it covers some of the most spectacular natural sights. A fun activity to do here is rope across the waterfalls. Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary (South Goa) Approximately 73 km from Panjim, Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary is another favourite haunt of nature lovers and trekkers. Kuksem is probably the best known waterfalls in the region. Distance-wise, the trek is a little difficult (a 12 km walk one-way), but the animals and trees make it worthwhile. On your route, you will notice animals like the flying squirrel and reptiles like the Malabar pit viper. The dense forest contains trees of all kinds with some as tall as 90 feet. There are a few natural trails ranging from about 500 meters to 5 km throughout the sanctuary. Its diverse flaura and fauna and breathtaking views make Cotigao worth visiting at least once.

Mayem Lake Residency (North Goa) Okay, so while all the above places are for the adventurous, here’s something for the romantic at heart. Mayem Lake Residency, surrounded by beautiful villages, neat houses and sprawling mansions, is an exclusive destination for honeymooners. Make sure to stop by at Corjuem Fort from where you get a 360-degree view of the area, including centuries-old hills and the mangrovelined Mapusa River. Another must-visit site is the temple of Saptakoteshwar, an incarnation of Lord Shiva. For information on trekking at any of these places, contact: Bianca Dias (Off Trail Adventures): +91 9960054428 Youth Hostel: +91 832 2465433 Mayem Lake Residency: +91 832 2362144/9689916485

The Lowdown Ok, so it’s a legitimate question to ask. Of all the topics under the sun, why did we choose to run a cover story on nude art in Goa Streets? Well, we are the news & entertainment weekly, and covering arts and culture is an integral part of what we do. It turns out there are many Goan artists who have depicted the unclad human form, and we decided to shed some light on their interesting work. We’re happy to inform that artistic expression is thriving in Goa – and this is one of the many ways it is doing so. We hope you find our piece informative and enjoyable to read. From our story on the Battle of the Bands to the rise of the sitar in Goa to our piece on stirring rhythms of Sufi during the Goa Streets-sponsored Monsoon Whisky Nights at Malts n Wines, this is a highly musical edition of Goa Streets. We’re also bringing some very thoughtful coverage of caste marriages in Goa, the prevalence of adulterated alcohol in the state and the ways businesses and workers are making ends meet during the lean monsoons. We’d also like to call your attention to our story on some amazing Goan treks, our piece on legends and curses of famous Indian diamonds and our article on a great new restaurant at the recently opened Swissotel in Calangute. All that’s in addition to our comprehensive listings and our weekly Streets Picks bringing you the best in music & nightlife, food, arts & entertainment and many other events. Enjoy! The Goa Streets Team

Thursday, August 22, 2013

August 24 Texan-style Steak Vs Ribs Nite

The restaurant will be serving choice aged steaks like Fillet of Water Buffalo, Rib Eye Steak, New York Sirloin, Pork Chops, Tequila-marinated Chicken and Schnitzel with a selection of sauces, gravies & accompaniments and Barbequed Baby Back Ribs Smothered with Hickorysmoked Barbeque Sauce served with Cajun house chips. At TinTin Bar & Restaurant, Vagator 7 pm – 11:30 pm +91 9623922796/9623073691

August 25 Lounge & Lunch @ The Sofala

Featuring live music and Goa’s most authentic Italian food at the newlyopened restaurant Mia Cucina. Try out homemade dishes with unlimited beer, wine, Sangria and selected cocktails for Rs 1,225 + taxes per person. At Mia Cucina Restaurant, The Sofala, Bhattiwaddo, Nerul @ 1 pm – 5 pm +91 7774008822

Champagne Sunday Brunch

Enjoy brunch at the Grand Hyatt with French champagne & food from five interactive & live stations dishing out Asian, Italian, Middle Eastern, Indian cuisine & desserts. At Rs 2,200 + taxes (includes buffet, champagne, wines & select drinks.) At Grand Hyatt, Bambolim Beach @ 1 pm – 4 pm +91 832 3011125

Sunday Family Brunches

Rejuvenating cocktails, soul warming gourmet cuisine from around the world, activities to keep the kids entertained. At Latitude, Vivanta by Taj, Panjim @ 12:30 pm – 3:30 pm +91 832 6633636

Bikini Brunch

Sunday BBQ Brunch at Rs 950 with unlimited alcohol and live karaoke with Emmanuel. At The Park, Calangute @ 12:30 pm – 4:30 pm +91 832 2267600/8805028194

August 25

Anjuna & Around

Viva Goa…

Alcove Restaurant & Bar

TinTin Bar & Restaurant will be hosting Goan Nights with live performances by guitarist Elvis Carvalho. Enjoy traditional Goan delicacies with on-the-house Caju feni. Special discounts for groups and corporates. At TinTin Bar & Restaurant, Vagator 7 pm – 11:30 pm +91 9623922796/9623073691

On Till September 5 Shravan Thali

The Royal Salute Restaurant at Hotel Delmon, Panjim, is hosting ‘Shudh Shakahari Thali: A Shravan Special’ till September 5. Thalis will be served only for lunch and only on Mondays, Thursdays & Saturdays. At Hotel Delmon, Panjim +91 832 2226846

On Till September 7 The Cupcake Menu Saturday Try out any 5 cakes for just a hundred bucks! At Aunty Maria, Hotel Fidalgo, Panjim +91 832 2226291

Every Sunday Leisurely Sunday Monsoon

Brunch

Among the offerings are age-old local favourites like Kheema Pao & Kathi Roll, Appam & Stew from Kerala and Madras Kuttu Paratha. For some Middle Eastern flavours, there’s Shawarma & Falafel. Satiate your sweet cravings with a variety of desserts, including Mississippi Mud Cake, Cranberry & Vodka Jelly, Rustic Apple & Mint Pie and a range of cheesecakes. At Waterfront Terrace & Bar, Goa Marriott Resort & Spa @ 12:30 pm – 3:30 pm +91 832 2463333

Serves Continental, Goan, Portuguese, Indian, Chinese &Thai cuisine. Expect a variety of seafood with a range of barbeque & grills. At Ozrant Beach, Small Vagator, Anjuna @ 8 am – 12 am +91 832 2274491/2273349

Artjuna

Set in an Old Portuguese house surrounded by a beautiful garden, the café serves up chilled café au lait, milkshakes, sandwiches, juices & baked goodies, homemade dips, iced lattes, blended coffees &more! At Monteiro Waddo, Anjuna @ 9 am – 6 pm +91 832 2274794

Cantare

Cantare is perhaps Saligao’s best kept secret. This traditional mansion turned lounge offers a good selection of food & wines and a warm ambience. At Cruzwado, Saligao +91 832 2409461

Curlies

The restaurant serves you everything from charcoal fired oven pizzas/ bakes to the best of Indian, Chinese & continental dishes, plus fresh seafood (Anjunastyle), with wine & beer. At Anjuna Beach @ 9 am – 2 am +91 9822168628

Mamma Mia

Italian cuisine with a blend of imported Italian ingredients &local organic produce with a nice view of paddy fields and coconut trees of Baga’s backwaters. At Resort Rio, Arpora @ 12:30 pm – 10:30 pm +91 832 2267300

Swissotel’s North Cafe New Kid on the Block Makes a Culinary Splash By Goa Streets @GoaStreets

he nice thing about new restaurants, from the customer’s perspective, is that if they have any hope of breaking into a crowded culinary market, they have to offer something different… and better. Now whether this explains our positive experience at North Café, the brand new restaurant inside the brand new five-star Swissotel in Calungute - or whether it’s good just because it is - is an open question. If you haven’t visited Swissotel yet, we suggest you do so. It’s a gorgeous place, with a sleek, elegantly furnished lobby, an exceptionally long and beautiful pool and a posh, covered outdoor bar. North Café is at the far end of the pool, and on the day we visited, a Konkani band lifted the spirits of the brunch’s many patrons. Before we continue, let’s go for a bit of ‘full disclosure’. Streets’ general policy in reviewing restaurants is that we do so anonymously and pay our own way. In this case, however, Swissotel called us up and invited us to sample their Independence Day Brunch – and we obliged. When we entered, the truth is our hopes were not high, because of the phenomenon we’ve mentioned in previous editions that seems to plague a lot of establishments, especially ones that cater to both Indians and foreigners. We call it LCD cooking, preparing one’s dishes for the Lowest Common Denominator. It’s when a chef, wary of offending any palate, ‘dumbs down’ the dishes so that no one could possibly say it’s too spicy, too bold or potentially controversial in any other way. The result, too often, is really bland food. So when we took that first bite into North Café’s Peppery Chicken, and took in a flavour bomb that made it abundantly clear the chef takes the ‘peppery’ in Peppery Chicken very seriously, we immediately understood that LCD cooking was not at play at North Café. Same goes for the Navratan Korma Kashmiri and the Chicken Vindaloo – spicy, complex and packed with flavour. It’s clear this Indian food was not conceived to please the palate of the Fish n Chips crowd, but all those who truly understand what South Asian cuisine is supposed to taste like. In addition to the aforementioned creations, on the ‘carnivorous’ side of the menu, there were Hyderabadi Chicken Biryani, Bengali Fish Curry (which passed the scrutiny of a certain Bengali sitting at our table) and Goan Ros Omelette, eggs topped with chicken and coconutbased curry (prepared live). And now for the vegetarian portion of North Café’s Independence Day Brunch. Before Anthony Bordain became the world-famous celebrity chef

that he is today, he wrote a book called Kitchen Confidential that had this to say about those who shun meat: “Vegetarians and their Hezbollahlike splinter-faction, the vegans, are a persistent irritant to any chef worth a damn. To me, life without veal stock, pork fat, sausage, organ meat, demi-glace, or event stinky cheese is a life not worth living. Vegetarians are the enemy of everything good and decent in the human spirit, an affront to all I stand for, the pure enjoyment of food.” When Bordain wrote those words, he clearly didn’t have India in mind. This is one country where one need not sacrifice the “pure enjoyment of food” by not eating animals. And North Café’s non-meat options – from the Tandoori Gobi to the Paneer Punjabi to Aloo Bhojpuri to the Vegetable Kolapuri to, our favourite, the Chole (spicy chick peas) – were every bit as tasty as the chicken and the mutton and the Bengali fish. And we must not close this piece without a mention of the interesting array of salads at the North Café Independence Day Brunch, which included some highly innovative creations featuring such ingredients as fried okra and chicken chat. Keep in mind this was an Indian brunch, so, with the exception of the fresh fruits and ice cream on offer for dessert, the rest of the options were strictly Hindustani, from Gulab Jamun to Shahi Tukda to Kesari Kheer. Like the rest of the experience at North Café, all these offerings were satisfying and sweet. 

Food 9

Thursday, August 22, 2013

Baga, Calangute & Around

Lahsooni Jhinga

10 Calangute Beach Hotel

This boutique hotel located in the heart of Calangute is cradled amongst some of the most famous beaches in the world. Enjoy the offerings of its exclusive bar tucked in a corner and refresh yourself with a drink. At Gauravaddo, Calangute +91 9960524567

Aquamarine Bistro & Bar

Specialising in Indian, European/ Continental cuisine, the seafood at Aquamarine is sought after along with its Mutton Xacutti, Vegetable Moussaka & Risotto Spinach. At Baga Land’s End, Baga @ 7 am – 10:30 pm +91 832 2276084/2275482

Cavala

Specialisesin Goan seafood & live music. The restaurant recommends dishes like Country Captain, Trincomalee Prawns & Chicken Periperi. At Saunta Waddo, Baga, Calangute @ 7:30 am – 1 am +91 832 2277587/9552551422

CoBa

CoBa (short for Coastal Barbeque) is known for its starters, grills & steaks. The setting is a treat for the eyes, with the pool on one side and saltwater lagoons on the other. At Double Tree by Hilton, Arpora @ 10 am – 11 pm +9183266556672

Fat Fish Restaurant & Bar

Known for authentic Goan cuisine, specialty Goan thalis, Continental, Tandoor & seafood. At Agra Waddo, Calangute Arpora Road +91 832 6512288/8806077550

KFC

Choose from a range of goodies like Hot Wings, Chicken Snacker Burger, Chicken Shotz, Hot n Crispy Chicken and Fiery Grilled Chicken. For vegetarians, there’s Veg Zinger Burger, Potato Krisper and Veg Strips. For dessert, check out the Kreamball Sundae and Soft Serves. At Neelam The Grand, Post Office Road, Calangute @ 11 am – 11 pm

Candolim Addah

Adda specialises in Indian, seafood, European/Continental cuisine. Popular dishes include Paneer Zafrani Tikka, Dum Aloo Kashmiri, Maan Sahari Kebab Platter & Bhuna Hua Anjeer. At O Hotel, Ground Floor, Dando, Candolim @ 7 pm – 10:30 pm +91 9890800073

Banyan Tree

The garden restaurant at the Taj Village specialises in Thai cuisine set under a 300yearold banyan tree. At Vivanta Holiday Village, Sinquerim @ 12:30 pm – 2:30 pm & 7:30 pm – 10:30 pm +91 832 6645858

Beach House

This Goan & seafood specialty restaurant has a live kitchen counter of Goan Portuguese fusion food. Signature dishes include Galinha Cafreal, Camarao Tigre Con Cilantro, and Clam Chops with Mango Chilly Sauce. At Vivanta By Taj Fort Aguada, Sinquerim, Candolim @ 7:30 pm – 10:30 pm +91 832 6645858

L’Orange

Tucked away in a cosy corner in Candolim, L’Orange also doubles up as an art gallery. It’s open through the year & features a multicuisine menu with homemade Goan delicacies, seafood & pastas. At Next to Magnum Resort, Candolim Main Road, Candolim @ 12 pm – 3 pm & 6 pm – 1 am +91 9970173606

Wok & Roll

A multicuisine restaurant which serves Japanese, Thai and pan-Asian cuisine. Restaurant recommendations include Honey-glazed Pot Roast, Pork Ribs, Thai Garlic Peppered Prawns and Deep-fried Prawns Tossed in Garlic. At Sinquerim, Candolim @ 1 pm – 3 pm & 7 pm – 11 pm +91 9049022348

Zuperb

Unlimited breakfast offer between 8 am – 11 am for Rs 180 only. Open all days of the week. One of the few restaurants in Goa that serves Parsi food. At Gaurro Vaddo, Calangute +91 9869076107

Margao & Around FireFly Goan Bistro Bar

Firefly features classics which are prepared like they should be, with a touch of artistic flair. At Ground floor, Vasvaddo, Benaulim Beach Road, Benaulim +91 9822123535

Boat Quay Grill

Boat Quay Grill serves tropical cuisine in a romantic setting. Favourites on the menu include Grilled Tiger Prawns & Beer Battered Fried Fish. At Royal Orchid Beach Resort, Utorda @ 7 pm – 12 am +91 8805013553

Café Mardi Gras

A 24hour café serving seafood, Goan & North Indian cuisine, coffee & snacks. Panfried Pomfret Recheado, Chicken Xacutti, Pork Vindaloo and Goan Fish Curry are some of the popular offerings. At Holiday Inn Resort, Cavelossim @ Allday +91 832 2871303

Fig & Olive

Offers specialties from Morocco, Spain, Italy, Lebanon & Greece. The menu boasts tapas, fresh salads & seafood, paella & pasta, wood-oven pizzas and homemade desserts. At Holiday Inn Resort, Cavelossim @ 9 am – 11 pm +918322871303

Mog Café

Shandong

An Asian cuisine restaurant with a fine dining ambience focusing on fresh, in season ingredients. At Radisson Blu Resort, Cavelossim Beach @ 11 am – 11 pm +91 832 6726666

Spice Studio

A Pastelaria

This bakery & confectionery serves gateaux, pastries, cookies& traditional Goan sweets. The chocolate & strawberry mousses are hugely popular. At Vaidya Marg, Panjim @ 9 am – 9 pm +91 832 2426270/2426273

The award-winning Spice Studio has a dinner menu that boasts the flavours of India’s southeast coast, the dum preparations of the Nawabs of Awadh & Hyderabad, Tandoori fare from the Northwest Frontier & Goa’s rustic flavours. At Alila Diwa, Adao Waddo, Salcette @ 7 pm – 10:30 pm +91 832 2746800

A Tona Bar &Restaurant

Peppers

A.Z.U.R

If your weakness is Goan cuisine, head to Pepper’s for a wide range of local delicacies cooked in a traditional style with a hint of modernity. At Gold Road Pajifond, Margao @ 11:30 am – 11 pm +91 9822133506

Nostalgia’s the first word that comes to mind when one walks in to A Tona (meaning ‘A Canoe’). Specialising in authentic Goan & Portuguese food, the menu here seems to be straight out of a grandmother’s kitchen. At Carina Desa, Betim @7 pm – 11 pm +9 19823129239 Catch up with friends or colleagues at India’s first transition lounge with a variety of bites and drinks. At Goa Marriott Resort & Spa, Miramar @ 8am – 1 am +91 832 2463333

Cantina Bodega

A pastry shop with some innovative décor! Choose from a selection of cheesecake pops, cupcakes, crispy chocolates & lemon pie shots. Also offers ‘designer’ cakes, desserts and chocolates At Shop #3 & 4, Colaco Residency, Off Abade Sariya Road, Comba, Margao +91 8380078252/9892588252

Upper Deck

A lively coffee shop with an interactive kitchen & communal/bench/roundtable seating; offers a creative a la carte menu with Continental & Indian fare. At Radisson Blu Resort, Cavelossim Beach +91 832 6726666

Pizzeria, bakery & cafe. Owner Vandana utilises her expertise earned from her years as a top pastry chef in New York City. At Sunaparanta Centre for the Arts, Altinho, Panjim @ 10 am – 7 pm +91 9011662233

Ruta’s World Cafe

In & Around Panjim

Urban Dhaba

It’s in Margao, but it may as well be in San Francisco with its stylish interiors, comfy sofas, and a great selection of world music. Chef/owner Ruta Kahate spent 20 years in Northern California and you can taste it in her global menu: light, fresh, wholesome. Everything is made in-house from scratch, down to the breads. Behind Nanutel, Margao @ 10 am – 8 pm 8pm (Closed Sunday) +91 832 2710757/www.rutas.in

Baba’s Wood Cafe

An Italian wine bar &restaurant specializing in woodfired pizzas and homemade gelato. Choose from a wide range of pure Italian dishes with beef fillet and fish always on the menu. At Mala, Fontainhas, Panjim @ 12 pm – 3 pm &6 pm –12 am (Closed on Tuesday) +91832 3256213/9923414098

Urban Dhaba sure lives up to its name of being an urban dhaba – there is a definite fusion of the rustic with the urban. While the menu boasts a host of cuisines (Goan, Chinese, Continental), the Indian food here is noteworthy, particularly Tandoori Chicken, Daal Makhani and the fresh Naans. At opposite O’Coqueiro, Alto Porvorim +91 832 3290939 Email: urbandhaba@yahoo.com

10 Food streetspicks Wan Hao

Wan Hao, meaning ‘welcome’ in Chinese, is Goa Marriott Resort & Spa’s oriental specialty dinner restaurant with a warm and vibrant ambience. Guests can relish the best of authentic cuisine from the Far East in the quaint setting of a traditional Oriental courtyard (you can’t miss the antique opium beds). Choose from a range of dishes from China’s different regions with aromatic Jasmine Tea for company. For dessert, try the Date Pancakes and Fried Ice-cream. At Goa Marriott Resort & Spa, Miramar @ 7 pm – 11 pm +91 832 2463333

Mr D’Souza’s Burgers Also known as Saligao’s Burger King, Mr D’Souza’s serves some really good burgers with a nice Goan twist. The menu is fixed – Spicy Chicken, Beef/Pork Chilli, Sorpotel, Beef Cutlets (a must-try), and Beef Tongue burgers. There’s always a crowd at this joint, but waiting for the burgers is totally worth it. You can also order the stuff here in their kilos; just inform the friendly owner-chef a day in advance. At Saligao Football Field, Opposite Saligao Church, Saligao @ 5 pm – 10 pm +91 8806477578

Portico

Carasid

For quick bites like burgers, sandwiches, wraps, cakes & chocolates, drop in at any of the five outlets through Goa to sample the offerings (designed by co-owner Christabel Shrivastava, who is also a nutrition expert). The cheesecakes here are also quite nice, we hear. At Ground Floor Chanson Building, Near Hotel Solmar, DB Marg, Miramar +91 832 2465904/9326111476

Chilli ‘n’ Spice

A carnival of fusion cuisine, a bar to enlighten your spirits, this multicuisine restaurant serves up exotic traditional fare, with a focus on Oriental cuisine. At Hotel Fidalgo, Panjim @ 7 pm – 2 am +91 832 2226291

Confeitaria

The Grand Hyatt’s patisserie, Confeitaria serves homemade products. Ideal for snacks, light lunches & desserts, it also offers chocolates, cookie, teas & seasonal specialties. At The Grand Hyatt Goa, Bambolim Beach @ 8 am – 8 pm +91 832 3011200

Coros Velvet

Want gourmet food in Caranzalem? Head to Coros Velvet. It’s a multicuisine fine dining restaurant which specialises in ravioli, steaks & pastas. At Miramar, Panjim @ 12 pm – 3 pm&7 pm – 11 pm +91 8605020020

Doçaria

Authentic culinary delights are served in a traditionally-designed Goan balcony at this restaurant that’s aptly called Portico. The freshest ingredients combined with home-style preparations offer a unique culinary experience. Savour Goan specialities along with the flavours of India’s different regions. At Spazio Leisure Resort, Near STARCO Junction, Anjuna @ 8 am – 12 am +91 832 2274866

Raj’s Pentagon Restaurant & Garden Pub Located just before Majorda Beach Resort, Pentagon is set amidst a sprawling garden, flanked by palm trees. Live music is Pentagon’s forte with special nights like Friday Jazz & Pop and Saturday Retro Classics. The restaurant stocks about 45 varieties of imported wines. Recommended dishes include Grilled Lobster & Mussels, Tiger Prawns Vindaloo and Mutton Sukka. At Survey #266, Beach Road, Majorda @ 7 pm – 11 pm +91 832 2881 402

Time 11am-12 midniht non stop food service, open everyday. Home delivery: 0832-2411959 & 9764159686 Caterin Service Contact: Mr. Roland Rodrigues @ 9890422440

Doçaria is many things in one. A coffee shop, beverage counter, cake shop, games centre, snack bar and dessert lounge. It also has a late night menu. In short, it provides everything you want in a relaxed open setting. At Cidade de Goa, Dona Paula @ 8 am – 11 pm +918322454545

Edu’s Restaurant

A multicuisine restaurant with Indian, Chinese, international &Goan food. Pizzas are one of their specialties. DB Marg, Miramar, Panjim +91 832 2463777/2463888

Forrest Veg Food Court

Serves a wide range of fast food from different parts of India: Mumbai’s Butter Pav Bhaji, frankies & paani puri, Delhi’s Chatpata Chaat & samosas and the South’s dosas. Apart from that, there’s Continental, Chinese, Thai & Mexican cuisine to choose from. At Bhagwan Mahavir Bal Vihar, Panjim @ 11 am – 11 pm +91 832 6454353

Pan Asian Bowl

The restaurant gives you a bowl, which you then take to a bar of noodles and raw vegetables and meats. You then fill your bowl with as many of these ingredients as you like, then choose one or more spicy or no spicy sauces from a list of 18 and then hand your bowl over to a chef who cooks the concoction in a sizzling wok before your eyes. At Next to Hotel Solmar, River Road, Miramar, Panjim +91 832 6455547

Global Shore Restaurant

A multicuisine restaurant serving Goan, seafood, Chinese, Thai, Indian & Tandoori dishes. The Chinese & Thai food here is very popular among its patrons. At Hotel Chandrageet, Porvorim +91 832 2414125/93731113205

Giardini

An alfresco restaurant, the menu here is exclusively GoanPortuguese with some authentic Goan Catholic fare. There’s live music on most nights. At Curca, Bambolim @ 11:30 am – 11 pm +918805873335

Tamari

If a fancy evening out is on your mind, then visit Tamari at Vivanta by Taj which does Chinese, Thai & Japanese cuisine (sushi) in fine style. A Teppanyaki counter provides an interactive dining experience while two private dining rooms set the stage for a super exclusive experience. At Vivanta By Taj, Lobby Level, Off Dayanand Bhausaheb Bandodkar Road, Panjim @ 12:30 pm – 2:30 pm & 7:30 pm – 11:30 pm +91 832 6633636

Shere Punjab

Well-known for its traditional North Indian fare, the restaurant serves Punjabi classics like Sarson da Saag, Paneer Makhani, Dal Makhani, Butter Chicken, Chicken Tikka Biryani& Mutton Dry Fry. At Rue 18th June, Near Levis showroom, Panjim +91 832 227204/227975

Tea Café

Nestled in the Latin Quarter of Mala Fontainhas in the heart of Panjim, Tea Café offers a lot of goodies (along with tea). Everything is made in-house, including a wide range of pastries, biscotti, quiches, a mezze platter, sandwiches and its famed Red Velvet Cupcake. At Empresa Dempo, 31st January Road, Fontainhas, Panjim Contact: +91 832 2223050

The Verandah

The signature grill restaurant at the Grand Hyatt serves fresh market produce of seafood, meat & vegetables. At The Grand Hyatt, Bambolim Beach +91 832 3011658

Feature 11

Thursday, August 22, 2013

LEAN SEASON = LEAN BUSINESS? By Goa Streets

ebastian D’Souza isn’t one known to be apprehensive. But on a late August evening, a hint of worry shows on his face as he takes one last look at the setting sky for any sign of thick clouds. “Let’s go,” he says to his men. Together they push out the nine metre-long canoe powered by an outboard motor from the beach and into the waves. It’s going to be a long night of casting and drawing of nets. It’s the middle of August, with the monsoon just past its most potent phase. But, with the start of the European arrivals still some months away, Sebastian D’Souza, who for most of the year is a beach-shack operator, isn’t one to sit idle. With relatively empty beaches, dismantled shacks, the absence of blaring music and the sight of traditional fishermen heaving their boats up the beach at dawn, the beach belt of CalanguteCandolim is transported back to what it once was – an idyllic Goan fishing village. One might be tempted to romanticise the idyllic setting – but for Seby (as Sebastian is informally called), it’s the wet months that are the most challenging. Seby has to find alternate sources of income when his shack is dismantled and carefully stacked away during the off-season. While the tourism industry doesn’t completely shut down at this time of the year, a drastic reduction in tourist arrivals (coinciding with the arrival of the monsoon) characterises Goa’s lean period from June to September. “Life in this industry is such that whatever we make during this season has to either last you all the year around or you have to find other sources when the rains come,” Seby says. He has chosen to go back to his roots, an option that not only keeps him busy during the rains months, but also helps to supplement his income. “Rather than sit at home, I can do what is a second nature to me,” Seby, who is in his mid-50s, says. While the early days of the monsoon are characterised by rough seas and inclement weather, the latter part holds less of a risk. With the tourism industry taking over the coastal belt of Goa – be it Calangute in the North or Colva in the South – most traditional occupants of the land have

lost no time in jumping onto Seby’s bandwagon. “Most traditional fisherfolk who inhabited these areas are now either taxi-drivers or water-sports operators or shack-owners or have even set up hotels or let out rooms for hire,” says John Lobo, Secretary of the Shack Owners Welfare Society, an interest group of governmentlicenced shacks. “During the off-season, some of our members go back to do their fishing activity and some to farming,” he says. “The rest of us make sure that the money we earn during the season lasts throughout the year.” John adds, “By working hard the rest of the year, we afford ourselves a three-month break. It’s good, even the workers get a chance to visit their villages back home.” With Goa and the Konkan Coast bearing the brunt of the Indian monsoon and with the big-spending Europeans rushing to Europe for summer, the state’s tourism industry has to rely on fierce campaigning, huge discounts and domestic holidayers looking for a steal deal, to make sure their rooms don’t run empty. Even the Goa Tourism Development Corporation (GTDC), a government-run body that manages hotels, guest houses and tours, offers rooms at half the peak season rates with other hotels offering

enormous discounts on their rooms. The GTDC, armed with roadshows, cultural festivals and discounted travel packages is forced to go all out to lure tourists during the non-peak monsoon season. “Tourists tend to avoid holidaying in Goa during the monsoon, but it is at that time that when the wildlife, waterfalls and hills come to life and are all green and beautiful,” says Nikhil Desai, Managing Director, GTDC (who has been trying to promote the state as a round-the-year holiday destination). He too admits that it’s Goa’s sunny beach destination image that makes people think monsoon is an odd time to visit. These days, GTDC offers white-water rafting and other monsoon thrills to give adventure-seeking tourists a taste of ‘the other Goa’. To a large extent, efforts put in collectively by the hospitality industry are paying off. “What off season? Even during these months, hotels have 70% of their rooms full,” Lester Melo, a wedding planner says. For him, season or not the show goes on. “While it is true that business is less during these months and it’s not as hectic as December, a lot of domestic weddings keep the business going.” Melo caters to all types of weddings, but mainly Christian and Hindu ceremonies. “For Hindus, this is wedding

season time. And if there are many auspicious days during the so called lean season, you’re in luck. This year was one such lucky year,” he adds. It’s not just the tourism industry and activities surrounding it that take a hit during the lean months. For a state that once boasted of the highest per capita fish catch and ranked second only to Andhra Pradesh in terms of absolute numbers, the near complete standstill of the Goan fishing industry during the monsoons may seem at odds with the state’s very identify. With the fishing labour heading back to their native villages, it’s a time of repair and recuperation for the fleet, their nets and the men. “For us trawler-owners, there is no choice really. While the workers head home and farm their fields, our business comes to a complete standstill regulated not just by the government-imposed ban, but also by the weather and how soon the workers return,” says Menino Afonso of the Mandovi Fisherman’s Cooperative. But despite a slowdown across the state’s premier industries, not many are complaining. As John Lobo puts it: “The monsoon may take away our businesses, but it gives us a sussegado life. There’s nothing like sitting back at the end of a hard fought season and just watching the rain, no worries on your mind.”

12 Cover Story

By Puja Roy @AriAsher

Rajendra Usapkar at his studio

ome call it art, some term it eroticism, while others still, pornography. So what really is it? Are naked and nude one and the same? And is there anything like ‘good naked’ and ‘bad naked’ as Seinfeld once suggested? In his often-cited book The Nude: A Study In Ideal Form, scholar and art historian Kenneth Clark says that to be naked means to be deprived of clothes (implying embarrassment and shame) while a nude, as a work of art, is free of all such connotations. Love it or loathe it, but nudity has been a part and parcel of India’s artistic identity for several centuries. Khajuraho’s erotic sculptures bear timeless testimony to this fact. Apart from this famous ‘erotic love temple’, other temples and structures throughout India present the human body unclothed, sometimes in sexually telling positions. In recent times too, many of our modern artists have celebrated the human body on the canvas and in sculpture, photography and other media. Goa, with its rich traditions of artistic expression, is very much part of this phenomenon. Our state is home to some of India’s most talented artists such as FN Souza, Vasudeo Gaitonde, Laxman Pai, to name a few, and one of India’s premier art schools, the Goa College of Art. Despite some serious reservations by the uninitiated, many Goan artists have excelled at the depiction of the artistic nude. I caught up with some artists to understand where this tradition is headed today and if Goa has the mental mindset and a market for this kind of art. Mapusa-based Rajendra Usapkar, one of Goa’s most well-known artists, told me about his journey that brought him into the world of the unattired human figure. “The Masters inspired me to do nudes. I just wanted to know what they went through when they painted nudes. Just to understand their state of mind at that time. Sometimes when the model is sitting in front of you, you don’t react sexually; you just think that the work comes first and above everything else. Sexuality is secondary…” Coming from a traditional, conservative family, it wasn’t easy for Usapkar to follow this path. “It was a big deal for me”, he says, “I needed acceptance from myself, my friends and my family.” The last 10 years have been very good for Goa’s artists on the national

Cover Story 13 and international scene. Goan artists display their works in places as far off as Macau, Hong Kong, Sweden, Amsterdam and as close as Panjim and Calangute. Increasingly, depictions of the unclad form are a part of the repertoire. Are we at the point where nude art enjoys the same legitimacy as any other form of artistic expression in Goa? Perhaps not. Explains Shaista Thapar, an avid art collector, “Sometimes people get startled when they see nudes on my wall. I think it’s about developing your aesthetic sense.” She believes there is a lack of art awareness in Goa. Even talking about nudes is a big taboo in some sections of society. This fact is not lost on the artists themselves. I called one of Goa’s most famous artists to ask about the subject, and here’s what he told me: “Please don’t call me again. I don’t want my name to be associated with nude art.” A rather unusual reaction given that this artist has painted – and sold – many nudes. (Still, I’m leaving his name out of this story in deference to his wishes!) Yet there are signs that things are changing. Most artists I spoke to are positive about nude art and its scope in Goa. There are people from the younger generation who are studying nudes, and beginning to display their talents to a wider audience. Before I go any further, let’s clarify

Turn to page 14

Are we at the point where nude art enjoys the same legitimacy as any other form of artistic expression in Goa? Perhaps not.

14 Cover Story From to page 13 whether it’s even right to say there’s a specific category in the arts called ‘nude art’. Most of the artists I approached for this piece shied away from any such categorisation. “Nude art, I believe, is very raw. You can say ‘nude studies’. But when it comes to paintings, I don’t think people like to use the term ‘nude art.’ They call it figurative,” says Usapkar. Art colleges in India, barring a few (like the Sir JJ School of Art in Mumbai, Jawaharlal Nehru University in New Delhi, or the University of Hyderabad), don’t have a culture that allows students to study the unclothed human figure. Caranzalem-based artist Wilson D’Souza says, “For some reason, the Goa College of Art does not have nude modelling. As students, we painted nudes from our own sources and from books… Most of my works are not based on actual bodies, but from my imagination. Most artists in Goa had to rely on their imagination.” At first glance, D’Souza’s nude paintings seem to resemble sculptures. “I see figures in almost anything, even if there’s a mossy blot, I see figures in them,” he tells me. D’Souza, who now runs an art school (the Pyed Pyper Art Academy), encourages his students to develop their talents in drawing the nude figure. When people think of nude art today, most often the image of a nude woman comes to the mind. But imagination has no boundaries and creativity can take on any form. Artist Viraj Naik’s paintings exemplify just that. A graduate of the Goa College of Art and the University of Hyderabad, his nude paintings showcase the relationship between humans and animals. He morphs human and animal forms and juxtaposes them together. “I hybridise them”, he says. He says the human figure fascinated him from his early days and his inspiration came from village festival theatres, folk stories and people’s day-to-day

activities. Naik explains that the lines one sees in an unclothed human body are far different from a clothed one. In his youth, he often went to Goa’s beaches over weekends to study the human figure. “Sometimes that was scary. But I considered it important for my personal growth as an artist.” Based in Mountain View, California, Rajan Parrikar is a Goa-born photographer who has snapped many nude sculptures throughout the state. Among them is the statue of the ancient deity Vetal, an important and unique element of Goa’s Hindu tradition. In his blog (www.parrikar.com/blog), Parrikar says: “The evolution of the depiction of the Vetal image itself is interesting. Traditionally, he preferred to go au naturel, and so the idols were displayed that way. But nowadays the ‘naked truth’ makes people somewhat uncomfortable, and therefore in several temples he has reluctantly taken to wearing the dhoti…”

Rahul Kapur is a nude artist Which brings me to my next question – how can the nation that gave the world the Kama Sutra and so much temple erotica be so squeamish about such things in the present? After graduating from art school, Usapkar made an all-India trip studying temple art and sculpture. He says, “It was a cultural shock for me”. He mentions his conservative upbringing as being in complete contrast to India’s rich ancient heritage where sex and erotica were discussed in the open. “I feel we are going back”, he says, commenting on the India of today. Wilson D’Souza agrees, saying, “India is getting less free.” Of course there are many social and cultural reasons behind this phenomenon, and the artists I spoke to believe

that chief among them are rightwing political groups. There have been several instances of certain groups protesting outside venues of nude art exhibitions in various parts of India (the Delhi Art Gallery in February, for example). Viraj Naik says, “It is a political atmosphere that’s forcing artists to hide their creativity. Many of us do our work privately.” In the end, as India modernises and grows, in all likelihood so, too, will appreciation of the artistic nude. Here in Goa, the transformation is already underway. One of Panjim’s finest historical monuments is the statue of a topless porcelain mermaid standing on the banks of the Mandovi. Brought from Mozambique more than a half century ago, it fell into severe decay. Restored to its original state by sculptor Ghanashym Anand Chari, the statue was officially re-inaugurated last year on Liberation Day by Chief Minister Manohar Parrikar, who recognised it as a ‘symbol of transformation’. Liberation, it seems, has more meanings than one.

Thursday, August 22, 2013

streetspicks

Dance Competition On 100 Years Of Indian Cinema Margao-based Nritya Sankul is organising a dance competition to commemorate one hundred years of Indian cinema. The competition will be based on classical or semi-classical songs from movies. Entry fees stand at Rs 100.

Carl D’Silva & Feathers and Fur

At Konkani Bhavan, Margao @ 4 pm On August 24 +91 9011059845/9823936483

Chaturang Theatre Festival This year the festival is dedicated to versatile theatre artiste of yesteryears, late Surya Wagh. A number of Marathi dramas will be stages on the occasion. An English play - The Class Act – will be staged on the concluding day of the festival. At Kala Academy, Panjim On August 24 – August 25 +91 832 2420453

Street Play Competition The Goa College of Home Science, in association with COOJ Mental Health Foundation, is organising the All-Goa Street Play Competition with the theme ‘Preventing Suicides Among College Students.’ The competition is open to college students and youth groups. At The Goa College of Home Science, Miramar @ 12 pm On August 23 +91 9822582022/ +91 9822988851

Pencil To Portfolio Pencil to Portfolio is an Intensive visual arts programme for youngsters aged between 12 to 18. This year will be Level One of the course. The course curriculum has been designed by Sunaparanta in collaboration with senior artist Rajendra Usapkar and will be held once a week over 30 weeks to February 2014. At Sunaparanta, Goa Centre for the Arts, Panjim Every Saturday @ 4 pm – 6:30 pm +91 832 2421311 info@sgcfa.org

By Perin Ilavia He’s been called ‘India’s most accomplished bird artist’, the ‘Eye and Feet Man’ (for his attention to the tiniest and most striking details), and he’s Goan! Meet Carl D’Silva, artist and naturalist, whose exhibition ‘Feathers and Fur’ previews at Panjim’s Gallery Gitanjali on August 24. Born in Caranzalem, D’Silva grew up in Mumbai and studied at the Sir JJ School of Art. His natural talent for sketching was visible from a young age itself. A pencil sketch of a hippopotamus which he made as a 12-year-old in 1976, (and which he has safely preserved), could give a large canvas of hippos he painted 21 years later stiff competition – quite the testimony to his skills as a child. 10-15 years ago, there was a market for artists to illustrate birds. But it wasn’t economics that drove D’Silva to specialise in the avian world. Like he says, “Mammals were not in my comfort zone.” A stickler for detail, he adds, “Drafting is the key word. 90% input is drafting, colouring takes very little time. If your draft is wrong, you can go blue in the face trying to rectify it.” As a Bombay Natural History Society member and staff-artist (from 1986-89), D’Silva had the opportunity to accompany many wildlife ecologists for field studies across the country. These trips certainly helped hone his skills. Today, D’Silva is acknowledged for bringing world-class standards to not just his art, but Indian wildlife art in general.

Turn to page 16

16 Arts&Entertainent August 22 – August 25 Exhibition & Sale Of Indian Wear Catch an exclusive exhibition of sarees, gadwal, designer, super net, brocade, Bhagalpuri, upada, salwar kameez suits & formals. At Prasad Building, Ground Floor, Opposite Hotel Palacio de Goa, St Inez, Panjim @ 10 am – 8:30 pm +91 9404469208

August 26 Independence Day Programme

Tiatr Academy is organising ‘Mhozo Des Mahan’, an inter-school competition of choreographic dancing on Konkani songs of patriotism, national integration & communal harmony. At Institute Menezes Braganza, Panjim @ 10 am onward +91 832 2230738

Galleries Of Note Kerkar Art Gallery The Kerkar Art Gallery exhibits installations and sculptures by local artists such as Subodh Kerkar and selected works by contemporary artists from all over India. At Gauravaddo, Calangute @ 10 am – 7 pm +91 832 2276017 Panaji Art Gallery The Panaji Art Gallery displays figurative & individual works of art by local Goan artists. At Panaji Art Gallery @ 9 am – 8 pm +919822168703 Ruchika’s Art Gallery Ruchika’s Art Gallery displays fine art, performing art and new forms of art. Opposite Goa Marriott Resort, Miramar @ 10:30 am – 6 pm +91 8322465875/9850571283/988 1836400 Surya Art Gallery Surya Art Gallery is situated in a quiet location where contemporary works of canvas paintings & artefacts of Goa are displayed. At Bandawalwada, Pernem +919404149764 Xavier Centre Of Historical Research

Catch exhibitions of paintings, rare books and symposiums with particular emphasis on contemporary cultural & social issues affecting Goa. At BB Borkar Road, Porvorim +91 832 2417772

From page 15

The period from 1987 to 1991 saw him achieve international recognition. He was the first Indian artist (and, to date, only Indian artist) selected to exhibit by UK-based premier Wildlife Art (consortium) and Society of Wildlife Artists at their annual juried show in London’s Mall Galleries. A lot of his works here were bought by appreciative European fans. He says, “I’m better known in the UK and internationally than in India.” This exposure provided him with assignments which took him to different parts of the world where he discovered new indigenous species and sub-species in variegated colours. Since 1989, D’Silva’s talents in illustrating field-guides on birds have been in great demand in Europe and India. Beginning with a completely new set of 64 colour plates depicting 538 species for India’s foremost ornithologist Salim Ali’s revised edition of ‘The Book of Indian Birds’, he has illustrated a British-sponsored field-guide to ‘Birds of the Indian Subcontinent’ which led to ‘Birds of Bhutan’, ‘Birds of Nepal’, ‘Birds of North India’ and the bestselling ‘Birds of Mumbai’ in 2003. He has also been a major contributor to specialised monographs like ‘Parrots of the World’, ‘Pheasants, Partridges & Grouse of the World’ and

‘Birds of East Asia’ which was published in September 2009. D’Silva had his first solo show in Mumbai in 1998 and ‘Feathers and Fur’ will be his first show in Goa. The 30 large canvas and smaller prints on exhibit, explore the captivating world of the animal and bird world in oil, watercolour, acrylic, charcoal, with animals beautifully complimenting birds like the majestic eagle, domestic rooster, oriels, pelicans, starlings and cranes to name a few. Check out the Cardinal Bird perched on an apple tree and the attention to detail on the fruit. “It took me more time to do those apples than the bird’, D’Silva says. Painting on big canvas enables him to use the brush more effectively as an extension to using his field-trained eye. ‘Feathers and Fur’ is on from August 25 – August 30. The artist will interact with people during the ‘Meet the Artist

Hour’ (between 6 pm – 7 pm) every day while the exhibition is on at Gallery Gitanjali. If you want to interact with the talented Carl D’Silva, here’s a chance you should not miss. For more information, contact the art gallery at +91 832 222112/222306.

Thursday, August 22, 2013

streetspicks Painting Workshop Margao-based Akasha - the Art Space is conducting a painting workshop by Gopal Vagurmekar for children between the ages of 11 to 15 years & 16 to 18 years from August 19 to August 24. The workshop will cover different techniques of painting, water patch, colour shading, colour mixing and lots more. At Yogita’s Lifestyle Store, Behind Old Collectors Office, Margao On August 19 – August 24 @ 4 pm – 5:30 pm & 5:30 pm – 7 pm +91 9422437477

Friday Health Talk As part of its health talk series, the International Centre Goa is co-organising a talk on avoiding kidney diseases along with Manipal Hospital Goa. This hour-long session will see Dr Chetan Mudrabettu discussing the health of kidneys and diseases related to it. Entry is free for members and non-members. At The International Centre Goa, Dr E Borges Road, Dona Paula On August 23 @ 6 pm – 7 pm +91 832 2452805

Third All-Goa Kids History Interschool Quiz Competition Xavier Centre of Historical Research, Alto-Porvorim, is organising its 3rd Goa for Kids History Inter-School Quiz Competition. Each school can send a maximum of three teams; each participating team should consist of three students of Classes VIII – X. The preliminary rounds will be held on August 24 at Loyola High School, Margao, for South Goa teams and at XCHR, Porvorim, for North Goa teams. The finals will be held on August 31 at XCHR, Porvorim. Last date for all entries is August 22. Hurry! At Xavier Centre of Historical Research, Porvorim On August 24 – August 31 +91 832 2417772 info@xchr.in

Bodybuilding Competition South Goa-based Rosary College, in association with MAXSAN Fitness Hub and under the aegis of Goa Body Building & Fitness Association is hosting the 2nd intercollege bodybuilding competition. There will be five weight group categories – 60 kg, 65 kg, 70 kg and 75+ kg. At Rosary College, Navelim, Salcete August 28 +91 832 2701564

August 23 – August 25 Calligraphy Workshop

The Directorate of Art and Culture is organising a workshop on calligraphy by renowned Calligrapher Achyut Pallav. At Sanskruti Bhavan, Patto, Panjim +91 832 2404600/2404687

August 23 – August 25

Aham Brahmasmi Programme

Discover your inner self through an exciting journey of awakening and change by connecting with your body, mind & spirit. Be healthy, empowered, blissful and liberated. At Om Kairos, Arambol @ 6 am onwards +91 9845720254

August 23

Conversation Competencies

Motivational Speaker Walter Mascarenhas is organising a one-day competency development workshop at the International Centre Goa. This workshop is targeted at those engaged in social and business relationships, including leaders, managers, employees and independent consultants. At The International Centre Goa, Dr E Borges Road, Dona Paula @ 10 am – 5 pm +91 832 2452805/10

August 24

Spice Farms

Museums

Inner Wheel Club of Ponda is organising a talk on cancer awareness for women by Dr Shekhar Salkar. At IMA Hall, Kurtarkar Complex, Ponda @ 4:30 pm – 6 pm

Spend a day among the lush green environs of the 130acre Sahakari Spice Farm. Relax under a dense forest cover and take in the aroma of a variety of spices grown in the farm. Also, enjoy a traditional Goan lunch served in earthen pots & banana leaves. At PondaBelgaum Highway, Curti, Ponda +91 832 2312394 Email: info@sahakarifarms.com

A centre for the preservation & promotion of art, culture & environment started by Maendra JA Alvares. At Big Foot, Loutolim @9 am – 6 pm +91 832 2777034 Email: ancestralgoa@gmail.com Website: www.ancestralgoa.com

Cancer Awareness Talk

August 24

Creative Writing Workshop

Author Savia Viegas will be leading this five-series workshop on creative writing, at the end of which, participants have to submit a piece of writing (about 2,000 words). Some of the best write-ups will be selected to be published in the form of a book which will be launched during the Goa Arts & Literary Festival in December. At The International Centre Goa, Dona Paula @ 10 am onward +91 832 2452805/9765404391

Sahakari Spice Farm

Tropical Spice Plantation

August 26

Located in a village yet untouched by pollution, the Tropical Spice Plantation is spread over a setting that allows one to soak in the joys of nature at her unadulterated best. Listen to birds chirp & sing, ride on elephants, stroll through betelnut plantations or just laze around by a stream. If peace of mind is what you’re looking for, the Tropical Spice Plantation is a good place to find just that. At Arla Bazar Keri, Ponda +91 832 2340329 Email: tropicalspice@rediffmail.com

A workshop, for kids aged seven and above, that gives a hands-on introduction to embroidery. To be conducted by Elaine Mendonsa. At Bookworm, C/17, 266, Santissm Taleigao @ 5 pm – 6:30 pm +91 832 2276154/9823222665

Offers traditional Goan Saraswat cuisine served in mud pots & banana leaf plates along with seasonal fruits grown in the plantation. At Ponda +91 832 2340272/9423888899 Email: savaiplantation@rediffmail.com

Learn A Stitch: Workshop

Savoi Plantation

Ancestral Goa

Casa Araujo Alvares

Goa’s first automated sound & light museum. A 250yearold mansion showcasing traditional inheritance. At Big Foot, Loutolim @ 9 am – 6 pm +91 832 2777034 Email: bigfoottrust@gmail.com Website: www.casaaraujoalvares.com

Museum Of Christian Art

Open all days of the week at the Convent of Santa Monica, Old Goa @ 9:30 am – 5 pm +91 832 2285299

Goa Chitra

With a collection of over 4,000 artefacts, Goa Chitra is an ethnographic museum that focuses on Goa’s traditional agrarian lifestyle and technology. It includes collection of local pottery, farming tools, musical instruments, ancient carts and palanquins. Visit for a walk down history and Goa’s interesting ancient past. At Goa Chitra, Mondo Waddo, Benaulim @ 9 am – 5 pm +91 832 6570877 Email: goachitra@gmail.com

August 28

Looking At Art: Workshop

Chetna Malhotra will conduct a workshop on the introduction to different art forms. Interactive session; open to all ages. At Bookworm, C/17, 266, Santissmo Vaddo, Near St Michael’s Church, Taleigao @ 5 pm – 6:30 pm +91 832 2276154/9823222665

August 29

Kids Cooking Workshop

Read a story, bake a surprise! Open to kids aged 5 and above. At Bookworm, C/17, 266, Santissmo Vaddo, Near St Michael’s Church, Taleigao @ 5 pm – 6:30 pm +91 832 2276154/9823222665

Everyday

Free Swimming Guidance

Organised by Walter Mascarenhas; Every day by prior appointment only. At The International Centre Goa, Dr E Borges Road, Dona Paula @ 5 pm – 7 pm +91 9822911161

TukTuk

From apparel to silver jewellery, bags to accessories and souvenirs to curios, everything at TukTuk is handpicked from across India. At A 104, Pereira Plaza, 1st Floor, Opposite Hospicio, Margao @ 10:30 am – 1:30 pm & 2:30 pm – 7 pm +91 9049017182

North Goa Snip Salon Spas

At Padmavati Towers, Panjim @ 10 am to 9 pm 2420898/989 www.snipsalonandspa.com

Sephora Salon & Spa

A Dubai-based beauty services chain Nr. Don Bosco School, Panjim. @ 9 am to 9 pm, Open daily 2231314, 3260890

Papiillon The Beauty Lounge

Virginkar Bhavan, Opposite Saraswat Bank, Margao, Goa - 403601 9822488355, 9822488366, (0832) 6483110, 6483111, 6480107, 6480106

Snip Salon & Spa

the SNIP Salon & Spa offers an array of treatments specifically including massages, scrubs, ayurvedic therapy, hair treatments and anti aging facials. At Calangute candolim road, Candolim +91 832 2275421

Spa Sitara

At Fort Aguada Rd, Candolim +918888886084

Dreamz Salon & Spa

Rio Sol Tower, Near Bal Bhavan and Campal Clinic, Campal, La Campala Colony Main Road, Caculho Colony, St Inez Panaji, 403001 Goa 0832 222 3628

Neomi Salon & Spa

Navelkar Legend Dhempe College Road Tonca - Caranzalem Ph. 2461674 / 2462147 F9, Joe Leitao Residency Opp. Hari Om Jewellers Naika Vaddo Ph. 6513658, 6513659

Sevanta Salon & Spa Pvt.

Ltd.,

Shop No. 1/284 B, Gourawado, Calangute, 0832-6524999

South Goa Park Hyatt Goa Resort

and Spa

Sereno Spa at Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa is a unique health and wellness oasis that offers holistic treatments through a blend of unique therapies. At Arossim Beach, Cansaulim +918322721234/+919923207075

18 Feature

Legends & Curses of Famous Diamonds Presented by TBZ, the Original Since 1864 By Perin Ilavia Diamonds are timeless, as the saying goes. But through the ages, they have also been the subject of legends and in some cases, scary curses. Writer Perin Ilavia tracked down some world famous diamonds of Indian origin which are known as much for their beauty as their curses. The Black Orlov

The Koh-i-Noor

he Koh-i-Noor is undoubtedly one of the most famous (and largest) diamonds in the world, and the curse associated with it dates back to an ancient Hindu text that said ‘He who owns this diamond will own the world, but will also know all its misfortunes. Only God, or a woman, can wear it with impunity.’ Legend has it that this diamond was stolen from Lord Krishna. Originally named Syamantaka Mani (Prince among Diamonds), the Kohi-Noor was owned, in turns, by the Rajas of Malwa, the Khilji & Lodhi dynasties (all of whom witnessed short-lived reigns), the Kakatiya Empire (of present-day Andhra Pradesh) from whom Muhammed bun Tughlaq captured the stone and took it to Delhi. From 1526, it was passed on from one Emperor to another, their reigns often marked with rebellion, with sons overtaking fathers. Shah Jahan ruled from 1639 and placed the Koh-i-Noor in his ornate Peacock throne. Thereafter began the struggle for the Mughal Empire between his sons, fratricide being the most common form of death. In 1739, King Nadir Shah of Persia (present-day Iran) invaded the Mughal Empire and took the diamond to Persia, renaming it the Koh-iNoor, meaning Mountain of Light. The curse of the Koh-i-Noor struck again. He was assassinated while his successors literally blinded each other to capture the throne. After that, Maharaja Ranjit Singh took possession of it in1800. He died six years later. During the British rule in India Lord Dalhousie arranged with Ranjit Singh’s son Duldeep, to gift the famed diamond to Queen Victoria in 1851. In1852, Prince Albert had it re-cut from its 186 carats to 105 carats (which increased its brilliance), mounting it in the centre of a tiara with more than two thousand other diamonds. The British were probably aware of the ‘curse’ mentioned in the Hindu text, and from Queen Victoria onward, it has been worn only by women of the Royal family. Yes, today it is still set in the Crown of Queen Elizabeth, and it is on display at the Tower of London.

lso known as ‘the Eye of Brahma’, the historic Black Orlov is said to hold a deadly curse. This precious gem originated in the early 19th century and featured as one of the eyes of a statue of Lord Brahma in Pondicherry. The 195-carat stone was first believed to have been stolen by a monk. It is theft that is believed to have caused the curse, causing three of its owners to jump to their deaths. In 1932, JW Paris is said to have taken the diamond with him to the United States. The diamond dealer soon committed suicide by jumping off a skyscraper in New York. Other owners included two Russian princesses – Leonila Galitsine-Bariatinsky and Nadia Vygin-Orlov (after whom the diamond is named) – both of whom too jumped to their deaths in the 1940s. After that, Charles F Winson, a New York-based diamond dealer bought the stone and cut it into three pieces in an attempt to break the curse. The 67.5-carat Black Orlov was set in a brooch of 108 diamonds, suspended from a necklace of 124 diamonds. It was later purchased by another diamond dealer named Dennis Petimezas in 2004. Its newest owner says he is “pretty confident that the curse is broken.” The Hope Diamond

erhaps no other diamond in the world is as famous, maybe infamous, as the Hope Diamond. It is said this precious stone was dug out of the Kollur Mine in Golconda (Andhra Pradesh) and weighed more than a staggering 112 carats at one point. After being stolen from the eye socket of a statue of Goddess Sita, it is said that a curse befell this deep-blue diamond and it foretold bad luck and death not only for its owners, but for all who touched it. The first famous owner of the Hope Diamond was Louis XIV, the King of France, who bought it (in its cut form at 67 1/8 carats) from French gem-merchant Jean Baptiste Tavernier and used it in the French Crown Jewels. Legend has it that after Tavernier sold the diamond, he was torn apart by a pack of wild dogs while on a trip to Russia. This was the first horrible death attributed to the curse.

Its second owner, Louis XV, reset the Hope in another jewellery piece, the Emblem of the Golden Fleece. After his death, his grandson Louis XVI became King of France. During the French Revolution of 1789, both Louis XVI and his queen were guillotined, with Marie Antoinette allegedly wearing the diamond around her neck when she was beheaded. Shortly after the French Revolution, the Hope Diamond was stolen along with several other crown jewels. It mysteriously resurfaced in London 22 years later. By 1823, English jeweller Daniel Eliason was the owner of the ‘Blue Diamond of the Crown’. The Hope was once again in royal possession when England’s King George IV purchased it from Daniel Eliason. It was subsequently sold off to pay off debts. Soon after, Henry Phillip Hope (from whom the diamond now takes its name) took possession of the diamond. During the Hope family’s ownership, the diamond’s reputation for bad luck intensified. The Hopes went bankrupt and after numerous attempts they finally managed to sell the diamond in 1901, which was purchased by New York diamond merchant Simon Frankel. (It later wound up with Frenchman Pierre Cartier.) After that, several bizarre events occurred involving the Hope and its different owners. First, Jacques Colot, a French broker, became insane and committed suicide after buying the stone. A Russian prince, Ivan Kanitowsky, supposedly loaned or gave the diamond to an actress who was shot dead the first time she wore it. The prince himself was later stabbed to death by revolutionaries. A Greek jeweller who sold the diamond to the Sultan of Turkey was thrown off a cliff while driving in a car with his wife and child. Evalyn Walsh Mclean, an American who had amassed a fortune in gold mining, bought the diamond from Pierre Cartier. Although she refused to believe in its ‘curse’, tragedies struck her family soon. Her younger brother died, a nine-year-old son was run over by a car, her ex-husband (an alcoholic) died in a mental institution, and her only daughter died of a drug overdose at the age of 25. McLean never recovered from her tragedies and passed away a year later. After her death, her extensive jewellery collection was purchased by Harry Winston from New York who donated the Hope to the Smithsonian Institution in 1958, where it remains one of its premier attractions.

Feature 19

Thursday, August 22, 2013

By Charlane Pereira

matrimonial advertisement in a recent edition of the Herald had all the elements that point to a thriving caste system in Goa. ‘RC Goan Chardo spinster fair 5’6’’ 33 yrs graduate employed in Kuwait seeks alliance from cultured graduate employed (Goa/ Kuwait) RC Goan Chardo Bachelor 33-41 yrs 5’7’’ or taller medium built.’ I quickly scanned the remaining page and came across another ad that also spoke of an RC (Roman Catholic, or GRC, Goan Roman Catholic) who still adhered to his Hindu ancestors’ high caste, in this case Chardo. ‘GRC, Brahmin bachelor, 33 5’7’’, well-educated, handsome, godfearing seeks alliance from parents of Brahmin/Chardo, well-educated pretty girls from respectable families.’ Despite this state’s reputation as a somewhat Westernized enclave of India, it’s clear the age-old caste system is far from dead, and perhaps nowhere is it more evident than in the realm of matrimony. Of course compared to the rest of India, Goa’s caste habit is not particularly strong. Still, the state has found itself unable to shed it for good despite some earnest official efforts to do just that, including a Rs 1 lakh incentive to couples who marry outside their caste. Let’s take a look at the stats. According to the National Family Health Survey (NFHS-III, 2005-2006), which surveyed 43,102 couples across 29 states, a scant 9.9% of all marriages were inter-caste, meaning the rest of the marriages were in line with caste. Kerala and Tripura had a high share of intercaste marriages, with the numbers at 21.3% and 17%, respectively. The lowest share was in Bihar (4.7%), which remains bitterly embroiled in caste wars and identity politics to this day. Interestingly, the survey showed that Goa has the highest percentage of intercaste marriages (28.4%), a likely result of the state’s exposure to outside influences, including 451 years of Portuguese rule. Yet, even Goa’s Catholic community still retains the traditional Hindu caste hierarchy. The Portuguese colonists did little to change this, even as a part of their Goan Inquisition. As such, Goa’s Hindu Brahmins became Christian Bamonns and Kshatriyas became Christian noblemen called Chardos. The Christian clergy became almost exclusively Bamonn. Vaishya converts to Christianity became Gauddos and Shudras became Sudirs. Finally, the Dalits who converted to Christianity became Maharas and Chamars. Eduardo Sequeira of Cindrella

Matrimony and Catholic Matrimony Marriage Bureau (with branches in Margao, Vasco, Panjim and Mapusa) says, “About 40% of people who come for registering at the marriage bureau strongly favour caste as a criterion in selecting a marriage partner.” He adds, “Casteism in selecting marriage partners is seen more among Hindus, followed by Catholics and then Muslims. About 20% are willing to marry below their caste even if they are Brahmins or Chardos.” A couple in their late-fifties (name withheld on request) speaks of their 25-year-old inter-caste love marriage. The groom’s family objected to the union since his bride was from a lower caste. Nonetheless, they went ahead with their wedding. The consequence? He was forced to leave his ancestral home and fend for his new family. Suddenly, he was unwelcome in his own home and all efforts to reunite with his family went in vain. It was only two years ago that his father, on his deathbed, finally said he was sorry. But this is a story from a quarter of a century ago. What are young Goans today thinking? Twenty-two-year-old Stacy Cardozo says, “Marriages should be based on individual choices rather than societal aspirations. A successful marriage is not dependent on factors such as same

caste, but built on aspects of mutual understanding and compatibility. Caste is not the main issue in marriage.” Mel, another young Goan, quips, “I don’t believe in castes. We live in the 21st century; we are well-educated and equals. I think it is inappropriate for someone to choose a partner based on caste.” “However,” she adds, “I mean no disrespect to people who do believe in it. I just think it is unfair to judge someone based on something that has been drawn down through the years and that virtually doesn’t exist anymore.” Another 22-year-old, Dilsha Valsan, tells me, “India still follows the caste system which creates enmity and anger among some sections of people. I strongly feel that a change can be brought about only through inter-caste and interreligious marriages. Only then we will learn to respect and accept all castes, cultures and religions.” It’s fashionable to speak of the ubiquitous inaction of Goan and Indian authorities. But the truth is officialdom has taken measures to eradicate caste from society. The Centre has written to states to provide incentives to those who opt for inter-caste marriages in a bid to foster a ‘caste-less society’. Already, Goa, Uttar Pradesh, West Bengal and Kerala are giving incentives to couples who

marry outside their caste or religion. Now, New Delhi wants the remaining states to follow suit. Goa gives Rs 1 lakh (versus West Bengal’s Rs 2,000 and Gujarat’s Rs 50,000) as incentives to couples who marry outside their caste or religion. In 2008-09, the state government awarded six couples for inter-caste marriages, according to the Statistical Handbook of Goa. That’s the last year statistics are available, and it’s possible the number of couples availing of the benefit has grown. However, it seems clear that, either because of lack of awareness or procedural red tape, few are taking advantage of the incentive, which can be obtained by approaching the Directorate of Social Justice and Empowerment. Ultimately, the decision to marry outside one’s caste isn’t about governmental incentives, but the ability to break the shackles of outdated traditions. The belief in the equality of human beings irrespective of caste, race or gender has to begin right from the formative years of a child’s life. I remember my dad often encouraging me, “Follow your heart when choosing your life partner. Caste and religion should not be used as a basis for selecting someone with whom you are going to spend the rest of your life.” Wise words from a wise man.

20 Hot Streets Dear Acaricia May, My wife and I have been married for 9 years and to be honest the spark has kind of gone out of our marriage. Between work and the kids, we’ve both been really stressed lately. When it comes to our love life, the get up and go has got up and left, if you know what I mean. What do you think I should do to get thing back on track? Signed, Peter, Panjim Dear Peter, Follow these simple steps. • Speak lovingly to your beloved. Remember, love making begins well before the bedroom. • Do nice things for her, however small. Bring her breakfast in bed, a cup of tea, a bouquet of flowers. • Be physical. Hold hands. Hug. Look her in the eyes and smile. • Spend time alone together, away from the house and work. Perhaps a walk on the beach, or an evening out in a romantic restaurant. • Offer to give her a massage, and make it just a massage, at least for a very long time. Let anticipation build. • Light candles and put on soft music.

• Make her laugh. • Express your boundless love. Once you’ve done all of the above, the path to a hotter love life with your honey will be cleared. You see, Peter, we ladies are different from you fellows. We don’t turn on and off like a light switch. It takes time to get us in the mood, and for us there’s nothing like romance and affection to get us geared up for love making. I can assure you of one thing. Once your honey reaches this state, she will be on fire – and there will be no stopping her passion. Like so many other worthwhile things in life, keeping the fire alive in a marriage sometimes requires work. It’s worth it. Love, Acaricia May

Feature 21

Thursday, August 22, 2013

Sure May I please have a Caju Feni?

Drink At Your Own Risk By Pedro Menezes

he impression that anything goes in Goa is nowhere more striking than when it comes to the liquors and spirits sold in the state. Do you think that is genuine cashew feni that you’re drinking in the local taverna? There’s an extremely good chance that what you’re drinking is not feni at all, but rather flavoured industrial alcohol. And it’s not just feni – always touted as one of the highlights of Goan culture – which is often spurious. Popular mass market spirit brands like Old Monk rum, DSP whisky, Royal Stag, among others, are also ‘duplicated’ on a huge scale, the real thing doctored with low-grade, cheap industrial alcohol spirits which will create havoc with your central nervous system. All sold over the counter at countless liquor outlets throughout Goa, not just in the coastal touristy belts, but also in the poorer hinterlands, and even exported illegally to neighbouring states. The most outrageous aspect of the whole business is that the same prices are charged for these spurious branded bottles as for the real thing, because there’s a bigger profit margin in this for the merchants of fake booze. Obviously, it’s the tourists, who come down to Goa every day in their thousands, who are the biggest victims of this unchecked scam. A large number of these tourists, especially the budget-minded domestic ones, visit Goa because the prices of liquor here are already much lower than in other Indian states. With that as

the bait, unscrupulous liquor vendors, especially ‘wholesale’ wine shops in the beach-belt areas, thrust the ‘duplicate’ bottles at visitors, with the added attraction of a ‘discount’. Unfortunately, there’s no one keeping track of how much fake booze is sold or exactly how widespread it is. However, anecdotal evidence and visits to dozens of taverns and stores around Goa make it clear the phenomenon is ubiquitous. Until recently, one seldom heard of raids or seizures by the Excise Department, or even attempts made to stop this nefarious trade, apparently because of widespread corruption and political patronage of the distilleries which manufacture spurious liquor. But to be sure, of late, there have been some seizures. Some months ago, following complaints by big boys like United Breweries and Shaw Wallace regarding duplication of their brands, Chief Minister Manohar Parrikar ordered a crackdown and some Rs 40 lakh worth of spurious liquor bottles were seized. Following the raids a number of illicit distilleries were also shut down; they’re now down to 42, from 74 earlier, officials say. The Excise Department estimates that despite these efforts, the spurious liquor manufactured in Goa is three times the quantity of the genuine stuff. But while the Goa government and its Excise Department largely look the other way when it comes to these

illegalities, there are regular reports of spurious IMF (Indian Made Foreign) liquor bottles being seized, for example, at the Goa-Karnataka border at Majali in the south and also in neighbouring areas like Belgaum and even Mumbai – where, at one time, bootlegged booze was synonymous with Goan aunties and their hooch joints. And it’s not just restricted to the cheaper brands. Recently, the Excise Department in Mumbai busted a racket where some Goans were filling up empty bottles of Jack Daniels, the premium American whiskey, with spurious stuff made in Goa and passing it off as the real thing. One of the rackets was busted in the Dockyard Road (P D’Mello) area, behind GT Hospital, while the other racket was busted in distant Vasai, both places with a large number of Goans. Of course it’s not only Goans doing this. In April this year, Excise officials seized 3,081 bottles of spurious liquor which had been manufactured in Goa and transported to Belgaum where it was being distributed by liquor vendors there. According to those in the know, while the spurious liquor is manufactured in Goa, the bottles are sourced from scrap-dealers, and the caps and labels made in industrial estates – a few units in Goa, but a majority of them in Gujarat. While genuine alcohol is made up of ethanol, the spurious stuff is

commonly made with chemicals used in cleaning fluids, nail paint remover and automobile screen wash, as well as methanol and isopropanol which are used in antifreeze and some fuels. These other types of alcohol can produce similar effects to ethanol in terms of making you feel tipsy. But they are also potentially very dangerous, and drinking alcohol containing these chemicals can cause nausea and vomiting, abdominal pain, drowsiness and dizziness. Drinking it can lead to kidney or liver problems and even coma and death. Methanol, the substance apparently used to make fake vodka, can cause permanent blindness. How do you make out what is genuine and what is fake? There are a few telltale signs and precautions you can take. One sure-fire giveaway is poor quality labelling and spelling mistakes on the label. Not reading quite right? Chuck it out. Also a bottle cap which is not tight or secure. When you open it and take a whiff or sip – does it smell odd and taste a little of varnish? That’s fake. The best precaution you can take, though, is to buy from a reputed wine shop – of course if you manage to find one in Goa (they’re there, for sure). And if it’s a premium brand of Scotch or such like, check the price – if it’s too cheap to be true, it’s surely a fake. But the numbers could be daunting. I mean, as of 2012, there are 8,813 liquor outlets in Goa! Bardez taluka, which has the tourist hotspots of Calangute, Candolim, Anjuna and Baga obviously had the highest number –1,560 licensed vendors, including bars (these are all figures from the government). Salcete has 1,476, while the other areas have much fewer: Ponda 630, Mormugao 508, Pernem 433, Quepem 414, Canacona 355, Sanguem 280, and Sattari and Bicholim 291. That works out to roughly one bar for every 170 Goans, not counting the tourists. Imagine buying bottle after bottle from these 8,000-odd liquor outlets trying to find one genuine bottle of booze! One way out would be to go for Malts n Wines & Goa Streets’ Single Malt-tasting sessions in Baga. At least you’ll get to know what a good – and real - single malt tastes like.

22 Event

Sufi Magic O and Monsoon Whisky Nights

By Puja Roy @AriAsher

n a cool recent night in Baga, Goans were delighted with the soulful stirrings of Sufi music at Monsoon Whisky Nights, organised by Baga-based Malts n Wines and Goa Streets. The performance on Wednesday, August 14, was the first of its kind in Goa – and it was made all the more extraordinary by the fact that it was accompanied by connoisseur-guided single malt whisky tasting! Vocalist/composer Sandeep Srivastava, (based in New Delhi and Goa) and Goa’s well-known drummer/ percussionist Carlos Gonzalves came together to form Zikr (‘remembrance of God’ or ‘invocation’), a Sufi folk-fusion band, to bring music lovers closer to the mystical poetry and melodies of Sufi music. The artists performed kafi (a classical form of Sufi poetry originating from the Punjab and Sindh regions of the Indian subcontinent), ghazal and qawwali in contemporary style, accompanied by percussions, double bass, guitar, sitar, tabla and keyboards, using a vast, rich and varied repertoire of songs by Sufi/Bhakti poets. The songs Zikr performed included original compositions like Srishti (an invocation to Mother Nature), Baadal (a monsoon song quite fitting the Monsoon Whisky Nights theme), Vasant Virah (a song about longing, emotional and physical desires during spring) and covers of much-loved Sufi classics like Punjabi poet and philosopher Hazrat Baba Bulleh Shah’s Ranjha (a song about love and longing), Ghadiyali (based on reuniting with the beloved) and Amir Khusro’s Zehale Miskin (where the poet is requesting his guru not to ignore him).

The original compositions were influenced by a range of traditional Indian ragas like Bhairavi, Jog, Charukeshi, Bageshwari, Mishra Khamaj and Malkauns. The performance ended quite fittingly with Bulleh Shah’s Dama Dam Mast Qalandar, a highly spiritual Sufi song. It got many guests into the Sufi mode; they ended up accompanying Sandeep, Carlos & gang with claps and impromptu dances. Talking about the event, Sandeep said, “The audience was way more receptive than I expected. We got a good response. The future of Sufi music can be very bright here in Goa. A little contemporarisation, pulsating rhythmic grooves and by giving the audience a gist of the songs/poems (in English) beforehand would help big time. I’m working on this.” Going by the number of people who attended the second edition of Monsoon Whisky Nights, it can be fairly said that the Sufi music festival was well-received. According to Carlos, “A lot of people dropped by at Malts n Wines by word of mouth; it was a good crowd. Goa’s music lovers, who are mostly used to Western music, truly appreciated Zikr’s Sufi melodies. It’s good to know that other types of music are being recognised here.” Of course, Sufi was only one of the attractions. The other was the delightful Single Malt Scotch Whisky Tasting – led by Scotland-trained connoisseur Mohieranjan Patel. Mr Patel says, “A good Single Malt is essentially a good beer that has been distilled, minus the hobs. One can learn many such fun facts about Single Malts, how they’re made and how to appreciate them at the Monsoon Whisky Nights.” Another connoisseur recently talked to Streets about the joys of Single Malt in poetic terms: “A sip can transport you on a complex odyssey. Imagine yourself in an Italian garden surrounded with mandarin, lemon, pear and peach trees, their fruit ripening in the sun. Add a hint of vanilla ice-cream, some geranium and wild mint growing nearby – it is a velvet explosion. Elegant. The perfect luxury.” Goa Streets teamed up with Malts n Wines to share the joy of Single Malts with the people of Goa. And so far, folks seem to be loving it. If you missed it, not to worry. There’s more Monsoon Whisky Nights this Wednesday, August 28. Whether the music will be Sufi or something different but equally soulful and groovy, is to be announced – so stay tuned!