Sept/Oct 2008

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GoldenIsles MAGAZINE

Know-It-All Issue Throwing the PERFECT PARTY LUXURIOUS Interiors Wine and Food PAIRINGS PLUS: HISTORICAL HALLOWEEN


…ATTUNED TO NATURE’S RHYTHMS AND DELICATE BALANCE. Come and discover for yourself what everyone is talking about — The Peninsula at The Golden Isles. With more than 13 miles of breathtaking deepwater shorelines and nine miles of navigable freshwater lakes, the Peninsula is the rare community where conscientious design and conservation happily coexist. Exceptional amenities are planned that include extensive nature trails, swimming facilities, state of the art fitness center, marina and a village center that will offer fine dining, a relaxing spa and luxurious B&B.

CALL TODAY TO ARRANGE FOR YOUR PERSONAL VISIT AT 888-519-9871 OR 888-522-6881 HOMESITES FROM THE $70S ARE NOW AVAILABLE WWW.PENINSULA-GOLDENISLES.COM Obtain a property report required by federal law and read it before signing anything. No federal agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of this property. This material shall not constitute a valid offer in any state where prior registration is required.

A Spring Tide Community


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16 VANISHING LANDMARKS A Photo Essay Photo by Benjamin Galland

Background: The Old Sea Island Stables

Sept/Oct 2008 FEATURES

24 KNOW-IT-ALLS Golden Islanders share what they know

46 DIANE JACKSON The Woman with the Answers

IN SEARCH OF THE PERFECT PARTY Expert Tips for the DIY Hostess

42 OntheCover Photo by Benjamin Galland 2 Golden Isles Magazine



DEPARTMENTS 8 EDITOR’S NOTE

9 CURRENT Shore things/Halloween/Tailgating

30 OUT OF AFRICA MAP International provides hope to Kenyan women

36 BOTOX Pros and Cons

38 SGT. LACEY The Island’s Favorite Cop

44 BULLBAT TIME A Lost Southern Tradition

50 WINE AND FOOD Ceviche is the “In” Entertaining Appetizer

52 MEDITERRANEAN LUXURY Inside Dana and Ewell Pope’s Island Home

56 FLY FISHING Yes, it’s possible in the Golden Isles

60 A SOUTHERN YANKEE Journeys in Becoming a True Southerner

4 Golden Isles Magazine

48 FORT CLINCH History Preserved Photo by Bob Swinehart


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GoldenIsles magazine

Contact us: 247 Edwards Plaza St. Simons Island, GA 31520 (912) 634-8466 Publisher C.H. Leavy IV Advertising Director Heath Slapikas Retail Sales Manager Burt Bray Advertising Representative Stephanie Trent Circulation Director Frank Lane Editor Amy H. Carter Design/Art Director Bob Swinehart Design Assistant Stacey Willis Design Consultant Harlan Hambright Feature Photographers Benjamin Galland Bob Swinehart Contributing Photographers Michael Hall Greg Hildreth Emily McBride Golden Isles Magazine is published six times per year by The Brunswick News Publishing Co. Postmaster: Send change of address to The Brunswick News Publishing Co., P.O. Box 1557, Brunswick, GA 31521-1557. Periodicals postage paid at Brunswick, Ga. USPS068180.

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Contributors

Lamore

Hopkins

Lori Lamore worked as a journalist, editor and free-lance writer in Washington, D.C., and Maryland for 15 years. She is a recipient of a National Newsletter Association Award for Instructional Journalism. As a D.C. reporter, Lamore represented her employer at the annual Washington Correspondents Dinners, during the elder George Bush Administration, where she had a ďŹ rsthand glimpse into the lifestyles of the rich, infamous and downright silly.

A South Georgia native, Leah Hopkins moved to St. Simons Island after graduating from Stetson University in 1975. She has worked as a freelance writer, in marketing and public relations and as a high school English teacher. Fortunately, Leah has great friends throughout Glynn, Camden and McIntosh counties who unintentionally, but richly, supply her with plenty to write about with their unique interests and talents and their wonderful living spaces. She and her husband, Lee, now split their time between St. Simons and the Jacksonville Beach area.

Morrison

Williams

Mike Morrison has been a reporter and freelance writer in and around the Golden Isles for 25 years. Over the years his pieces have appeared in The Brunswick News, The Georgia Times-Union, The Islander, and Golden Isles Magazine. A winner of more than 65 writing awards from state journalism organizations, he spends his free time contemplating rehiking the Appalachian Trail or taking another extended backpacking trip around Europe.

Kathi Williams is currently the assistant editor of Coastal Illustrated. Her writing experience was honed at Michigan State University and through years of writing pleadings and briefs as an attorney. She moved to Coastal Georgia in 2006 by way of New Jersey, Illinois, Michigan and Massachusetts and immediately fell in love with the beauty and special community of St. Simons Island. Williams is pleased to call the island her home now, and you can often ďŹ nd her down by the pier with her 5-year-old son, Declan. While she misses Red Wings hockey, Chicago-style pizza, real Philly cheese steaks and her Yankee friends and family members, Williams has found great friends here and the warm ocean breezes and sand between her toes make her smile every day.

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Editor's Note I read recently that Pablo Picasso was not allowed to roam alone around art galleries in his later years because he was caught once trying to improve on one of his old masterpieces. Humans are a strangely discontented lot. We can never simply leave the thing without making a little adjustment here, a tweak there, adding a word, reshooting a photograph or just ripping it all apart and starting over again with a different design. On the other hand, discontent has wrought great change in the world. While world change wasn’t quite our goal in remaking Golden Isles Magazine, redesign was, and we hope you see that in the pages of this issue. Not just skin deep, our changes encompass every aspect of the magazine, from pictures to words. Our goal is still the same, and that is to reflect all that is great about the Golden Isles – the good life we enjoy here, the beauty of the place and the wonderful people who inhabit this little corner of the world. There truly is no place like our home, and we’re proud to publish under the banner of the name “Golden Isles.” We hope you enjoy our new tack. Drop us a line and let us know what you think!

Amy H. Carter Editor

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GoldenIsles magazine

Celebrating the enchanting beauty, charming personalities, sophisticated lifestyles and rich history of the Georgia coast. Submissions: Golden Isles Magazine is always in search of talented contributors. Unsolicited queries and submissions of art and stories are welcome. Please include an email address and telephone number. Submit by email to the Editor, Amy Carter, at acarter@goldenislesmagazine.com or by regular mail to Golden Isles Magazine, 247 Edwards Plaza, St. Simons Island, GA 31522. Only work accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope will be returned. Advertising: Information regarding advertising and rates is available by contacting Stephanie Trent by phone at (912) 634-8466 or by email at strent@ goldenislesmagazine.com.


Current

ShoreTHINGS Arthur Court salad servers at Ronne's, St Simons Island

Sapphire and diamond lobster brooch at Redfern Jewelers, St. Simons Island

Sept/Oct 2008 9


St. Simons bracelet at Golden Isles Bracelet Co., St. Simons Island

Multicolored LUHTLS Ä ZO WPU with diamond eye at Cunningham Jewelers, Brunswick

-SPW Å VW WSH[LZ at Tonya's, St. Simons Island

Safekeeper of the Sea & Seashore by Jim Shore at Ronne's St. Simons Island

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Enamel blue crab pendant with diamond at Cunningham Jewelers, Brunswick

Enamel Nautilus earrings with diamonds at Cunningham Jewelers, Brunswick

Gold sand dollar pendant Ned Cash & Associates Jewelers, Brunswick

Seahorse pendant at Cunningham Jewelers, Brunswick

Sept/Oct 2008 11


Current

Historical

Halloween By Amy H. Carter

Get dead clever this Halloween. Banish the usual haints and horrors and channel some true coastal characters, too colorful in life to be forgotten in death.

In a duel to the death, Blackbeard (a.k.a. Edward Teach) would have Capt. Jack Sparrow dancin’ the hempen jig (pirate-speak for hanging) in no time. Blackbeard was a vicious privateer who allegedly buried a portion of his booty on Georgia’s Blackbeard Island. His captors sailed off into the sunset aboard his flagship, the Queen Anne’s Revenge, with Blackbeard’s severed head hanging from the rigging. “Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl” (2003) Johnny Depp as Capt. Jack Sparrow

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Blackbeard


A robber baron of a different stripe, Reynolds deposited his fortune just one creek away from the purported resting place of Blackbeard’s, on Sapelo Island. Rich enough to indulge his eccentricities without censure (an Athos Meneboni mural on one rec room wall depicts a half-clothed flapper sneaking a smoke in the loo), Reynolds would be great fun at a Halloween party. Ouija, anyone?

R.J. Reynolds Jr Frankly, Scarlett and Rhett, yours wasn’t the greatest love-hate relationship south of the Mason-Dixon. Fanny Kemble was a beautiful English actress who captured the heart of St. Simons Island plantation owner Pierce Butler and stomped that sucker flat. An ardent abolitionist, she wrote cuttingly of her husband’s treatment of his slaves and turned the tide of European sentiment firmly against the South. From “Gone With the Wind” (1939) Clark Gable as Rhett Butler Vivien Leigh as Scarlett O’Hara

Fanny Kemble and Pierce Butler From “Enslavement: The True Story of Fanny Kemble” (2000) Jane Seymour as Fanny Kemble Butler Keith Carradine as Pierce Butler

Sept/Oct 2008 13


Current

hot stuff for a cool pregame party

tailgating in style

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Sept/Oct 2008 15


Photo Essay

Vanishing Landmarks AND OTHER FOND MEMORIES “Without geography you’re nowhere.” – Jimmy Buffett

Did you ever feast on 3 tacos for $1 on a Tuesday night at Del Taco? Did you learn to ride a horse astride Cherokee at the old Sea Island Stables? If you answered yes to either of these questions, you can consider yourself a native Golden Islander. Just two of the many landmark experiences long-time residents can claim to have had, both are mere memories now. Revisit the old coast with us now, as seen through the lens of Golden Isles photographer (and native) Benjamin Galland. Photo Essay by Benjamin Galland Q Story by Amy H. Carter 16 Golden Isles Magazine


Alfonza's Supper Club Harrington Community Forks clatter, people chatter and liquored laughter splatters onto wood paneled walls where it sticks like grease on a fryhouse backsplash. The Friendly Stars stroll among the tables, borrowing the melody of a soul-saving hymn to sing the praises of Southern soul food. “Just a bowl of butter beans,” they harmonize to the tune of “Just A Closer Walk With Thee.” No chain could ever replicate the charm of Alfonza’s Olde Plantation Supper Club in the Harrington Community, famed for its steaks and seafood. Gone but not forgotten. Sept/Oct 2008 17


Village Creek Landing Harrington Community

Once a gathering place where residents of Harrington socialized, Village Creek Landing evolved from a dilapidated neighborhood baitshack and grocery store called “Coozie’s,” after its owner, Coozie Sullivan. Now a venue for private parties, Village Creek Landing and its eastward marsh view once attracted locals and visitors alike who partook of fresh seafood, the low country boil and (for the landlubbers) barbecue sandwiches while rocking on the porch.

Sea Tow Dock Frederica River

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Long years before the real estate boom, people lived off the sea, not the land. In those days, waterfront property was the domain of every man, woman and child. Today those views are premium, as are the places that offer them. The Sea Tow dock, with its westward view, is one of the last venues for working watermen.


Why did the chickens cross Sea Island Road? Because they could. No landmark embodied life the way it used to be on St. Simons Island better than the old Sea Island Stables. A resident flock of fowl meandered into and out of the intersection at will and always with the assurance that motorists would yield the right of way. Horses and riders did much the same on their way to tour ungated Sea Island. Those were the days.

Old Sea Island Stables Frederica Road and Sea Island Causeway

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Sept/Oct 2008 19


Del Taco Mexican Cafe Demere Road in Jewtown

Nothing wrapped up a perfect day on the beach like a soft taco at Del Taco. One of the island’s earliest and longest serving fast-food joints, Del Taco offered a generation of teens their ďŹ rst taste of tacos outside the store-bought kits mom served up every Tuesday night. Viva Del Taco!

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We did it right then.. We do it right now.

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Brunswick • 1612 Newcastle St., Ste. 200 • 912 265-1750 Bru St. Simons Island • 641 Ocean Blvd. • 912 638-7439 S Sept/Oct 2008 21


Shrimp Boats Darien Waterfront

The sun is setting on Georgia’s shrimp industry. Their boats tethered to the dock, outriggers pointing to the sky in the ultimate gesture of surrender, shrimpers unable to compete with cheap imports and bankrupted by expensive fuel are turning their backs on the sea and hiring out to work on the hill. They are the last of the great swashbuckling seafarers, and we’ll miss them when they’re gone.

Hog Hammock Sapelo Island 22 Golden Isles Magazine

Fried chicken, served hot and crispy at Lula’s Kitchen. Hog Hammock may be a dying community, but the life that remains is oh so good. Still inhabited by descendants of the freedmen who settled the island after the Civil War, Hog Hammock maintains a cheerful countenance in the face of a grim prognosis. Hope lives here, a boundless hospitality toward a world that’s slowly forgetting this place. Go now, if you’re going.


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Next to Nalley Honda, Behind Wendy’s

Jekyll Island South End Beach The skeleton of a sunken shrimp boat is an eloquent epitaph to a lost industry. While Georgia’s signature sweet shrimp is still a bountiful crop, shrimpers are a dying breed. Better to scuttle the boat, let Davy Jones have her, than lose her to the bank or the bill collectors. When the sands of time and the relentless roll of the tide uncovers this wreck again in a hundred years or so, will they even know what to call her?

Sept/Oct 2008 23


?

Feature

Think You Know It All? 12 locals tell you what you really ought to know

Compiled by Amy Carter

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Jenny Strauss Tour Operator, Ghost Walk of St. Simons Most popular local landmark

“The St. Simons Island Lighthouse and its ghost, Frederick Osborne (a former lighthouse keeper who died in March 1880 following an argument with his assistant). We’ve had people who were absolutely sure that Frederick was there. Icy cold patches, open windows that were closed when they went up (the lighthouse steps) – no one did it.”

Sharon Flores President, Cassina Garden Club Plant that best symbolizes the coast Sharon Flores has her own ideas about plants that have the look of home. “Down here it’s certainly Sago palms, cabbage palms. Azaleas look absolutely beautiful in spring,” she says. But she also polled fellow garden club members to get their opinions, and they chose a variety: s 9AUPON (OLLY #ASSINA BERRY BUSH s #AMELLIAS s /LEANDER s #REPE MYRTLE s (YDRANGEA s ,IVE OAK s 7AX MYRTLE s 3PANISH MOSS s 3EA OATS s 0ALMETTO s -ARSH GRASS s $OLLAR WEED

Julie Hunter Founder, Signature Squares Best historic downtown Brunswick square for people watching “Since Jekyll Square is the only downtown square we have completed a full renovation on, that would be my choice. Because it is in the heart of the commercial area, there is usually a healthy amount of foot traffic to watch.”

Sept/Oct 2008 25


Lydia Thompson Birder, Artist Best place to bird watch

“The Colonial Coast Birding Trail, a birding trail along our coast. Jekyll is a wonderful place to go birding. Several spots on Jekyll Island were developed so birdwatchers can get their footing and start birding. There’s a bird sanctuary, the amphitheater area with the pond.You’ll see wood storks, herons and night egrets. “Go to the beach. There’s the Andrews Island Causeway (off Hwy. 341 just west of downtown Brunswick) that’s actually pretty neat. There can be some wonderful birds there. Overlook Park is a good place. I was just driving back from Jekyll and went Lanier Boulevard rather than Highway 17. There’s a pond there that can have some pretty neat birds. “It’s finding those nooks and crannies.You can do it in your backyard but you can also become the explorer.”

Laura & Brian Justice Caterers,Tasteful Temptations Most popular coastal food “Visitors to the Golden Isles love to eat fresh seafood – local caught Wild Georgia Shrimp, Sapelo Clams, oyster roasts, crab cakes and sushi seem to be some of the favorites. “The meal which we have requests for the most from our out-of-town guests is the Low Country Boil. We prepare this dish a little bit differently than most, and pair it with Pulled Pork barbeque frequently.”

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Mary Anderson Owner, Anderson Fine Art Gallery The landscape that artists most love to paint “I do not think there is an artist who has not been seduced by the beauty of the marshes and one of their favorite places to paint is Bloody Marsh. This site was named after the 1742 Battle of Bloody Marsh where General Oglethorpe’s soldiers defeated the invading Spanish forces. In the celebration of victory the English said the marsh ran red with Spanish blood although we know the numbers were minimal. The significance of the battle is that it proved to be so demoralizing to the Spanish that they never attempted to invade Georgia again.”


Brunswick Mayor Bryan Thompson The best thing about living in Brunswick “For me, the best thing about living in Brunswick is the people. Over my 54 years, I’ve lived and worked throughout the Midwest and Southeast in many small towns and large cities. When I first visited Brunswick in early 1996, I admit I was a bit unsettled by the ‘tattered elegance’ that the city had quietly settled into during two decades of economic decline. However, this soon became irrelevant as I began meeting the wide and diverse range of people who lived and worked throughout the community. “In Brunswick I was simply accepted for who I was and very quickly folded into the inner life of the community. I believe this openness is grounded in Brunswick being a port city for over 200 years. With centuries of close association with individuals of different races, religions, cultures from across the region, state, country and world, there really are no strangers or outsiders here. “As evidence of this, I again need only mention my own experiences in Brunswick. I’m from ‘up north,’ a former actor and vegetarian who doesn’t smoke or drink and who, until recently, drove a purple pick-up truck. And after living here nine years, the great people in this wonderful Deep South City elect me their mayor in a landslide. “Is this a cool town or what?”

Dennis Burgess President, Island Newcomers Club Top reason for moving to the Golden Isles “People move here for a number of well established reasons – to bask in the sunshine and warm breezes of the island, to savor the beauty of the canopy of live oaks dressed with Spanish moss, to relax in the slower pace of life, to make a garden in a light sandy soil instead of in clay and rocks, to revel in the beauty of a sunset over the marsh. But when heat, humidity, interminable falling oak leaves, biting insects and procrastinating contractors devalue these reasons, one aspect of living in the Golden Isles remains secure – the unrestricted generosity of spirit and welcoming friendship displayed at all levels of society. Whether it be the neighbor, the shopkeeper, the post office counter hand, the yard man or the person met on the beach, a sense of community and goodwill exists that is unique to the islands. It is more a justification for moving than a reason for moving because its full impact does not become totally apparent until one has started to live here.”

Sept/Oct 2008 27


Heard Galis Athens native, Banker Best way to enjoy the Georgia-Florida weekend

Cary Knapp Adult services librarian, Brunswick-Glynn County Library Best book about Coastal Georgia

“While my activities surrounding Georgia-Florida weekend have evolved as I’ve gotten older and, presumably, more mature, it always starts that Thursday at 5:00. I’ve learned that when you live at the beach, you have more friends than you thought you had. This is definitely one of the weekends they magically appear and, despite having a year to plan, still need a place to stay. As Friday is spent “making calls outside the office,” I’ve been amazed at how many potential prospects can be found on East Beach “hydrating” themselves in what is, typically, still warm weather. It feels like Athens, but with sand! “Game day obviously revolves around the game, but pregame activities are a crucial part to the overall enjoyment of the weekend, especially for the eight losses out of the last 11 games I’ve been to! Sea Island’s tailgate provides all the necessary ingredients (other than a guaranteed win inside the stadium) – bus ride to and from the game, great food, full bar, live band, TVs and a bathroom trailer that makes my bathroom at home feel like a porta-potty ... all about three blocks from the stadium – which, depending on intake and tolerance, is an easy walk for most! “In my mind, the weekend is never complete without a meal at Crabdaddy’s or a beer at Brogen’s, but with scattered victories in recent history, I have witnessed those who made a meal of beer before the game and didn’t make it to either.”

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“I think the best – and most painless – way to know the history of the area (especially St. Simons) is to read Eugenia Price’s historical trilogy “Lighthouse,” “New Moon Rising” and “The Beloved Invader.” These were some of her first novels about the area and they are very well researched, nicely worded, entertaining and informative. “There are lots of books about this area and many I would recommend, but I do feel there are several intriguing stories that haven’t been told.”

“One of the most scenic yet challenging running routes around is one that contains portions of the F.J. Torras Causeway. Whether you begin your run at the St. Simons Village Pier and run across the causeway to the Hwy. 17 Welcome Center and back (around 13 miles), or you begin at the Golden Isles Marina and go for a “short” run across the bridges and back (around 4 miles), this route can be challenging. “The best thing about the causeway run is watching the seasons change through the changing marsh color. The marsh morphs into shades of green and gold and brown during the year and provides an amazing natural view for runners. Blue skies with huge white fluffy clouds can provide a colorful frame for the marsh. Marsh bunnies, turtles, birds and other coastal wildlife can also add visual fun and extra company along this course.”


Nick Toth Photographer, The Dark Room Most popular spot for a family photo “Everybody wants the beach. The majority of family portraits you shoot are tourists. All local people may want at least one on the beach, but they change it up. Local people go all over the place.� Out-of-towners at the beach Courtesy of Nick Toth

Lea King Member, Golden Isles Track Club Best route to run

Sept/Oct 2008 29


Fashion

Out of

!FRICA - ! 0 )NTERNATIONAL PROVIDES HOPE FOR +ENYAN WOMEN WITH ()6 AND !IDS A pearl of great price is an investment in beauty. An inexpensive pendant of cow horn is an investment in life. Cow horn and cow bone are just two of the materials used to create a line of Kenyan jewelry and crafts sold by the Brunswick nonprofit MAP (Medical Assistance Programs) International. The jewelry, which has proven a big seller in the Golden Isles, is made by Kenyan women infected with HIV and AIDS. Profits from the sale of the jewelry go to their support.

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“People feel good buying jewelry that they know is helping others,” says Sara Green, international volunteer coordinator for MAP. Of course, people are also attracted to its beauty. To look at the exquisite craftsmanship evident in the jewelry, you would never know the challenges that face the crafters each day. Every piece of jewelry is meticulously crafted with one purpose in mind – to provide a better life for crafters and their families. Since March, MAP has been helping these Kenyan artists to reach their goal by selling their jewelry and crafts. “The money from its sale is the only source of income for the women,” says Green. In Kenya, people with HIV and AIDS, especially women and children, are often abandoned by their families, shunned by society, and forced to live in isolation and poverty. It is impossible for a woman infected with the virus to find employment, says Esther Mukundi, a Kenyan activist who was determined to change this. She founded the Ecumenical Care and

Support Women Project which provides services and teaches skills to Kenyan women with HIV and AIDS. Proceeds from the sale of the crafts and jewelry the women make provide income, health care, food, group therapy and other programs to improve their lives. So far, MAP has sold nearly $4,000 worth of jewelry and crafts for the Kenyan organization. “One hundred percent of the money from the sales of the items is sent to Esther,” says Green. The first shipment from Mukundi’s Kenya-based organization was sent to MAP in March. It sold out in a matter of days.

In Kenya, people with HIV and AIDS, especially women and children, are often abandoned by their families, shunned by society, and forced to live in isolation and poverty.

“Much of it sold during MAP’s annual meeting for its donors, called Vision Weekend,” says Green. The partnership between MAP’s Brunswick headquarters and Mukundi’s organization was built by a mutual link with MAP’s Kenyan office. Mukundi, who now holds a master’s degree in community care, first studied HIV and AIDS prevention through a MAPsponsored program. In 2003, MAP’s Kenyan office endowed Mukundi with seed money to buy a sewing machine and beads. She started teaching jewelrymaking to Kenyan women, and her organization was born. “I will be forever grateful to MAP’s Kenyan office,” Mukundi says.

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Sept/Oct 2008 31


MAP has since received its second shipment of jewelry and crafts and it is selling well – and without advertising, says Green. “It’s basically word of mouth,” she says. People who see the jewelry for the first time comment on the delicate, intricate and obviously labor intensive work. But the women enjoy it. “The beadwork itself is therapy for the women,” Green says. As the women concentrate on the work, they forget their pain, Mukundi says. While the women forget their past, they create unforgettable crafts. One

piece of jewelry, recently on display at MAP for its volunteers to view and purchase, was made of hundreds of honeyhued beads threaded and roped together. An oval pendant, the size of a clamshell, dyed in ivory, tan and brown tones complementing the beads, hung from the strand. Incredibly, the pendant was made of cow horn dyed to these rich hues. Beads and pendants are not dyed only to earth tones; others are dyed in colors suggestive of a Caribbean seascape – vibrant greens, pinks, purples and blues. A few pieces, including a number of bracelets and earrings, are made of cow

bone. “Cows are a source of wealth. No part of the cow is wasted,” Green says. Like the cow horn, the cow bone is carved, dyed and decorated. Then there are round pendants made of tin and etched with an animal, such as a giraffe or rhino, hung from a piece of leather. Mukundi’s husband Daniel provides the leather scraps from his own leather business. Although the jewelry has been the main attraction, MAP is also selling purses and wall hangings that the Kenyan women craft. The purses are expertly woven. Some purses remain the color of natural straw; others are dyed in an assortment of colors. Another craft for sale – beautiful Batik wall hangings. The women paint scenes of traditional Kenyan life and native African animals. Not to be missed is a pendant made of copper-toned metal with a swirling design, like that of a snail’s shell. It is called an ndoro. “This piece represents the circle of life,” says Green. An investment in Kenyan crafts and jewelry ensures that the circle of life will remain unbroken for Kenyan women and children.

If you are interested in viewing and buying Kenyan jewelry or crafts, call Sara Green at 280-6654 or email her at sgreen@map.org. The price of the jewelry ranges from $5 to $20, purses from $25 to $35. Wall hangings are $10.

32 Golden Isles Magazine





Health

I

In his day, George Orwell thought that everyone at 50 had the face he deserved. Were he alive today he might say that everyone at 50 has the face he can afford. Nowadays age truly is a state of mind, and plastic surgery makes it easier to not mind the passing of the years. Ironically, the most common form of cosmetic surgery isn’t actually surgery at all. Botox injections have become the most popular way to cover time’s tracks. Last year, 4.6 million procedures were performed in the United States, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. Botox is a drug made from a toxin produced by the bacterium Clostridium botulinum, the same toxin that causes botulism. When used cosmetically, Botox temporarily eliminates wrinkles by paralyzing the muscles that cause them. “The toxin inhibits nerves from working to stimulate muscles, relaxing laugh lines or tension lines,” explains Dr. Paula Legere of Summit Plastic Surgery. “The first dose lasts three months. After that, injections tend to last longer … four or five or six months.”

Botox pros and cons

By Amy H. Carter 36 Golden Isles Magazine

Approved by the FDA for treatment of frown lines between the eyebrows, Botox is also used to treat lines and wrinkles on the forehead and around the eyes and, as a side benefit, can prevent tension headaches and facial muscle spasms. The drug was first approved to treat crossed and lazy eyes. It was in that context that doctors discovered the smoothing effect Botox has on wrinkles around the eyes and on the forehead. Like any drug, Botox can produce unpleasant side effects – droopy eyelids and, rather famously, a frozen looking facial countenance. “If you overuse it then you don’t have any facial expression,” Legere says. The best way to minimize the risks is by receiving injections only from a board-certified plastic surgeon or dermatologist. Or avoid the needle altogether. There are alternative therapies that produce results similar to Botox. The catch is, you have to work at them. There are more than 200 topical potions designed to produce Botox-like effects, says Boni Ray Chaney of the Golden Isles Aesthetics Clinic on St. Simons Island.


The growing field of cosmeceuticals, skin creams that purportedly possess drug-like powers, contains potent ingredients said to do from the outside what Botox does from the inside. Their contents include Vitamin C, Retinol, hyaluronic acid – a plumping agent – and acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline) and gamma amino butyl acid. “There’s a smorgasbord of alternatives out there,” Chaney says. The keys to success, though, are consistency and commitment. Unlike Botox, topical products are not instant fixes. They take time to produce results, and must be applied with strict regularity. Chaney recommends starting with a clean palette to improve the skin’s absorption. Refresh your face with a chemical peel and sweep dead skin cells away with a regimen of microdermabrasion treatments. Q

Medical uses for Botox

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Sept/Oct 2008 37


Profile

Sgt. Lacey the island's favorite cop Story by Mike Morrison

Glynn County Police Sgt. Randall Lacey has a particular way of doing his job. Lacey’s way puts an emphasis on the people he serves on St. Simons Island. Showing kindness and respect is for him standard operating procedure. He doles these qualities out generously, and expects the same in return. “Once you earn the respect of the people, it’s a whole lot easier to do your job,” Lacey says during a brief break from his patrol duties in the Village. “If they trust you, they’re much likelier to call you when they need you.” The people on the island trust him, they respect him, and so have bestowed upon him a nickname -the Unofficial Mayor of St. Simons. “I guess the people on the island have adopted me,” Lacey says, “and I’ve adopted them. I’ve been taking care of this island for quite a while now.” Nine years to be exact. Chief Magistrate Judge Tim Barton knows Lacey from the time he worked in the Magistrate’s Office

38 Golden Isles Magazine


What makes police work on St. Simons unique?

“

It's special because not only do you have to know the local folks, you have to get to know the tourists, too. There's not as much going on over here as on the mainland, and a lot of people consider this the easy life for H WVSPJL VMĂ„JLY )\[ the idea is to keep it that way. My whole thing is to stop any action before it gets started.

“

Magistrate’s OfďŹ ce as an investigator. Lacey left that job, Barton says, to get back out among the people. “He likes to be with the people,â€? Barton says. “He’s what a police ofďŹ cer ought to be. He’s ďŹ rm but fair. He’s good for the kids. He knows who’s up to stuff, and he tries to put them back on the proper course. He’s one of those special people, and we’re lucky to have him.â€? A native of Washington, D.C., Lacey retired from the U.S. Navy after 20 years while stationed at Kings Bay Naval Submarine Base. He’s been a member of the county police force for 13 years. His job is supplemental shift

supervisor for the island, where he also lives. Lacey is a cool operator. He doesn’t exacerbate tense situations with a confrontational approach. Instead, he uses tact - a rare commodity these days - in dealing with routine situations. But when he’s been called upon to shift gears, he has risen to the occasion, and has several collars of violent offenders to his credit. What he relishes about police work, however, is less thrilling but inďŹ nitely more rewarding -- his day-

to-day association with those he has sworn to protect. “We do a lot of foot patrols,� Lacey says. “I walk the pier, the shops, just to let people know I’m here. I get a lot of information from shop owners because we’re friends. It makes people feel a little better knowing we’re around.� Glynn County Police Chief Matt Doering says Lacey is a prime example of the kind of police work he advocates. “Randall does a good job of establishing a rapport with the

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40 Golden Isles Magazine

public,” Doering says. “That’s part of my philosophy. The better people know you, the more comfortable they are in calling you when they need help. Randall’s not one who’s shy with words, so he’s pretty good at this.” John Gibson, owner of Redfern Jewelers, agrees. Gibson made a career in law enforcement, spending 35 years with the U.S. Citizenship and Immigration Services. “His intense interest in the community and the people around him is what makes him a good police officer,” Gibson says. “He’s got his ear to the ground and he really knows what’s going on. He talks to people and they’re very much at ease with him. “He comes into our shop every once in a while and we just talk. There’s a special rapport between those in law enforcement. He’s one of the better police officers we have around here.” Lacey has befriended senior citizens, shop owners, tourists, residents, but there’s also an unlikely group he champions: skateboarders. They are much maligned on the island and considered by many to be a criminal element, but Lacey is quick is to come to their defense. “I deal with skateboarders all the time,” Lacey says. “They know I’m their best friend. I used to be a skateboarder when I was young. They’re the most discriminated against group on the island.” The problem is there’s no place for them to skate – legally, that is – so they play a cat-and-mouse game with the police, picking a spot and skating until they’re told to move on. “They go wherever they can go until somebody chases them off,” Lacey says. “It’s unbelievable how many calls we get about skateboarders, but I look out for them as much as I can.” The county has plans to build a park for skateboarders, and Lacey will be glad to see those plans materialize.


Island Crime • The biggest problem on the island is entering autos. Too many people leave their valuables in their cars with the doors unlocked. • Drugs. This is a really bad problem on the island, especially ecstasy and cocaine. Parents need to be aware it's out there and protect their children from it. • Traffic violations. Drivers have to be aware of the new traffic laws and changes such as the traffic circle at Demere and Frederica. Plus, they need to reduce cell phone calls and texting. Eighty percent of people going through the traffic circle have a cell phone in one hand and the steering wheel in the other.

“I can’t wait for that park to get going,” he says. Lacey loves the island and its people. He’s carved out a niche for himself in his Southend neighborhood, and at his church, the St. Simons Island Community Church. “I have a connection with the people over here,” he says. “It feels like family. And this island is a beautiful place. There’s nothing more beautiful than this island.” n

Sept/Oct 2008 41


Feature

In Search of the

Perfect Party Story by AMY H. CARTER Photos by BENJAMIN GALLAND

42 Golden Isles Magazine


You might want to peg your party to May Day or design your menu and decor around a Mardi Gras theme. Or perhaps you possess a bleached starfish that suggests a beach theme. In the end, starfish may serve no greater role than as place markers at the dinner table, but they sparked the idea. Start simple and the ideas flow. Save the money talk for later. “A lot of times if budget is the first thing discussed it tends to hamper our ideas or ability,” Bass says. Elegance is easy, not expensive. The key is simplicity. For color, Armstrong suggests white and green while Bass likes rich t starts with an idea – a dark reds. For flowers, the simpler theme, a pretty picture on a page the better. Hydrangeas mixed with torn from a magazine, a cherished a few roses, or even gerbera daisies, item of great or simply sentimen- lend a look of clean sophistication tal value. The next thing you know, to any event. Float five or six hardy you have a party. blossoms in a glass or crystal bowl The option to hire help with ev- filled with water, or fill a fish bowl erything from cooking to cleaning with sand and a single pillar candle, up afterwards is a wonderful luxu- then scatter the blossoms around ry, but it’s fun sometimes to know that. you can do it yourself if you must – or if you really just want to. There are no hard and fast rules to throwing a successful party, according to expert party planners. Vintage linens, mismatched china, cuttings from the backyard garden – it’s all good if it’s what you, the hostess, want to use. “Make it yours and don’t sweat the small stuff,” advises Edward Armstrong, floral designer for the eponymous Edward on St. Simons. Easy for an expert to say, but even experts have to start somewhere. “I would start with an idea, whether it be an item or a theme or a date,” says Stacy Bass, owner of Straton Hall catering and event planning.

I

“The flower heads last four or five hours without water and give a bright pop of color to your centerpieces,” Armstrong says. “Finish the look by scattering shells and river rocks down the table.” Even an arrangement as simple as lemons and limes in a pretty crystal vase makes a striking centerpiece. Surround your centerpiece with votive candles and you’ve tapped every great party planner’s secret. “You can hide all kind of ugly in the dark,” Bass says. Whether hosting a cocktail party or sitdown dinner, make an hors d’oeuvre or a casserole you’re known for, then buy a few dishes to complement your offering. Don’t be afraid to mix and match any and everything, from serving pieces to food. “We are blessed in this area to have great restaurants, delis and caterers,” Armstrong says. “Make it easy on yourself.” Q

Sept/Oct 2008 43


Bullbat Time

A custom sadly unfamiliar to my own generation, Bullbat Time was deďŹ ned for me by an elegant white-haired neighbor one languid summer evening. Cocktails in hand, we whiled away a good hour talking mostly of politics, he being a retired judge of distinguished service with much to teach a rookie reporter consigned to the county commission beat. The bullbat, he told me, is a common nickname for the nighthawk, a bird that takes wing at dusk to feed. The booming sound produced by the male bullbat's dramatic swoops historically served as a call to unite genteel Southerners on the porch, where they closed out the day with cocktails and conversation. Here's to the revival of a great tradition, and a recipe for a lovely libation to help loosen the tongue. – Amy H. Carter

COSMOPOLITAN 1 1/2 oz. vodka 1/2 oz. Triple-Sec 2 oz. sweet and sour Splash of cranberry juice Courtesy of Joey Robinson, Brogen's North, St. Simons Island

44 Golden Isles Magazine


Holiday Party …Our Place or Yours?

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Feature

Diane Jackson Benjamin Galland

The Woman With the Answers Story by Kathi Williams Question #1: Who was the rector at St. Paul’s Episcopal Church in Richmond, Virginia, at the end of the Civil War? Question #2: How would you answer Question #1 if you couldn’t Google it That was the challenge that started Diane Jackson along the path to her career as a reference librarian at the Brunswick-Glynn County Library. The question was posed 1989, long days before the Internet and search engines. St. Paul’s Episcopal had no ties to Brunswick, Glynn County or even Georgia, so the answer wasn’t going to be right at Jackson’s fingertips. The library staff conferred. “What was important about St. Paul’s?” they asked themselves. “Wasn’t Jeff Davis in church when he found out about a Confederate defeat? That must have been St. Paul’s Church.” Sure enough, in stepped Marcy

46 Golden Isles Magazine

Hodges, a reference librarian with 30 years of experience, who located a book about the Civil War that held the answer. The Rev. Dr. Charles Minnigerode was delivering a sermon as the rector of St. Paul’s Episcopal Church on the first Sunday of April in 1865 when parishioner Jefferson Davis, president of the Confederacy, received a telegram from Robert E. Lee announcing the fall of Petersburg, the partial destruction of his army and the immediate necessity for flight. Jackson was struck by the way that the group was able to use reason to analyze the question and determine where to locate the answer. “It was that first question that set the tone,” she says. “I learned to logically think through a question to get to an answer. Now, I learn something new every day.” In these days of the World Wide

Web and information that is accessible at lightning speed, Jackson doesn’t get as many meaty questions. The typical day’s questions are people asking for directions to the library, whether a book is available and how to renew materials. Common research questions are requests for phone numbers and general reference information. More’s the pity, since Jackson literally has history at her fingertips in the library’s Special Collection room. Books, documents, maps and other archival information – including genealogical records – in the collection have provided invaluable to authors, students and genealogists over the years. To understand how valuable Jackson is as a resource, just take a look at the acknowledgments in the books of various local authors including Patricia Barefoot, June Hall McCash and even Eugenia Price.


Barefoot’s ties with Jackson date back to childhood. She grew up with Jackson, who she calls “Doll.â€? She describes Jackson as “a brilliant womanâ€? who never shies from a challenge. “There is no task that is more than she can handle willingly,â€? Barefoot says. “She is extremely knowledgeable about local history and heritage, and since that is what I write about, she is always a great help to me.â€? Jackson’s role as caretaker of local history is appropriate since her own roots are deeply entwined in it. Her mother was part of the Waycross Colony as a child. Her father fell in love with the island, too, and they moved to St. Simons Island when Diane was about 9 months old. At that time, there were approximately 1,500 people on the island. The family set up house about three blocks from the beach and then found jobs locally. Jackson remembers her father and great-uncle helping to ďŹ ght the ďŹ re at the second Casino in the 1950s. She remembers when the the Johnson rocks were installed in the 1960s. Jackson says it was “hard to get up to any mischiefâ€? because her dad owned the only gas station on the island and everyone knew her. Things are much different today with St. Simons’ population between 15,000 and 20,000.

When she is not researching questions posed by library visitors, Jackson is transcribing her mother’s letters and notes from the Waycross Colony days so that her own family’s story can be included in the annals of local history. Got Questions? Research librarian Diane Jackson says some of the most valuable tools of her trade are The World Almanac and a good dictionary. For those researching their ancestry, the library has census records and, through GALLILEO, an online search service, access to some very good genealogy databases. In addition, the Special Collections room is home to a number of volumes of family histories that have been provided by local families from their own records. There are books for visitors to write in genealogical queries and to insert known family information. The library cannot guarantee the accuracy of information in these books, but it can be another useful tool when building a family tree. The Brunswick-Glynn County Library also acts as the law library for Glynn County, so there are also court forms and instructions as well as other legal reference materials available that are very helpful when navigating the waters of the judicial system. Q

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Sept/Oct 2008 47


History

Fort

Clinch

History d Preserve

Walking across the heavy wooden drawbridge through the opening onto the grounds of Fort Clinch, one is instantly WUDQVSRUWHG EDFN WR WKH WK &HQWXU\ 7KH À UVW WKLQJ \RX notice is how remarkably preserved this fort is. It's easy to imagine a garrison of soldiers marching across the wellPDQLFXUHG FRXUW\DUG RU SHUKDSV D FRRN À [LQJ WKH WURRSV their daily rations. The starkly furnished stockade stands ready to handle troublemakers. Scarlet letters of the day lie ready on the mattresses for the thief or the drunkard to place around his neck in disgrace. Don’t even be surprised if you are approached about enlisting to serve at the 19th century fort. Touring the outer walls, the thickness of the structure amazes, but what is most impressive is the series of cannons that defended the St. Marys River inlet. Standing more than 10 feet tall, these massive guns are on movable tracks for easy positioning for attacking a target. Several men were able to maneuver these while others loaded the barrel. Fort Clinch is located on the north end of Amelia Island near Florida’s east coast border with Georgia.The fort was QDPHG IRU *HQ 'XQFDQ /DPRQW &OLQFK DQ LPSRUWDQW À JXUH in Florida’s Seminole War of the 1830s. Construction began in 1847 and continued on through the Civil War.

48 Golden Isles Magazine


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A pentagonal brick fort with both inner and outer walls, Fort Clinch was a safe haven for blockade-runners during WKH &LYLO :DU %ULHà \ RFFXSLHG E\ &RQIHGHUDWH IRUFHV LWV recapture by Federal troops in early 1862 gave the Union control of the adjacent Georgia and Florida coasts. The fort was used in 1898 during the Spanish-American War, but was abandoned until the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) restored it in the 1930s. A Florida State Park, Fort Clinch is interpreted as the base of Union operations in the area throughout the Civil War. A part of the park system since 1935, Fort Clinch is one of the best-preserved 19th century forts in the country. Although no battles were ever fought here, it was garrisoned during both the Civil and Spanish-American wars. During World War II the fort was used by the military for storing equipment and supplies, in case there were any threats to the Southern coastal waters. Daily tours with period re enactors depicting garrison life bring the fort to life for visitors. The park site offers a days worth of activities for the entire family. Sunbathing, swimming and beachcombing are SRSXODU DFWLYLWLHV DW WKH QHDUE\ EHDFKHV $QJOHUV FDQ À VK IURP WKH SLHU RU WDNH DGYDQWDJH RI H[FHOOHQW VXUI À VKLQJ +LNHUV DQG ELF\FOLVWV FDQ HQMR\ D VL[ PLOH WUDLO WKURXJK WKH park. Self-guided nature trails provide opportunities to learn about and observe native plants and wildlife. A full-facility campground and a youth camping area provide overnight accommodations.

If you go ... Fort Clinch State Park is open daily from 8 a.m. until sunset. Admission is $3.25 per carload and $2 per person. An annual pass good for admission to all Florida state parks is available for $32.10 (individual) and $64.20 (family pass). Pets are allowed in designated areas. It is recommended that campers make reservations. For more information contact Fort Clinch State Park, 2601 Atlantic Avenue, Fernandina Beach, Fla. 32034, or call (904) 277-7274.

Story and photos by Bob Swinehart Sept/Oct 2008 49


Pairings

Wine and Food Don’t Miss the Trend: Ceviche is the “In” Entertaining Appetizer By Lori Lamore

N

Need a new recipe for your cocktail party this fall that will delight your guests’ palettes? Tom Delaney, chef and owner of Delaney’s Bistro on St. Simons Island, has the appetizer for you: Ceviche of King Salmon and Ahi Tuna with Sweet Potatoes Gaufrette. Delaney says this recipe is perfect to serve in the fall because the Alaskan King Salmon, which is in season at this time, has a wonderful, rich flavor for Ceviche. “The King Salmon has a mild taste,” he says. If Alaskan King Salmon is unavailable, the next best choice is wild salmon, which also has a mild flavor, as opposed to a strong fish taste. Ceviche is a traditional, Latin American dish that is cooked with citric acid, not heat. The dish has become

50 Golden Isles Magazine

very popular, and is often served in tapas bars. The tuna and salmon, once transformed into ceviche, should be a glistening, pale pink color. The ceviche has a delicate, subtle flavor derived from lime juice and olive oil mingling with cilantro and jalapeño peppers. The cilantro and jalapeño pepper, which have a tendency to dominate, refrain from stealing the appetizer show. All the ingredients combine to hit the right note in the taste bud chorus line. Delaney’s Gaufrette Sweet Potatoes complement the ceviche with a contrast in color and texture. The sweet potatoes are sliced like potato chips and pressed to resemble a waffle pattern. Delaney uses a mandoline to press the waffle pattern into each sweet potato slice. However, “the taste of the sweet potatoes will not change if you opt not to


d

Ceviche of King Alaskan Salmon and Ahi Tuna Serves 4 Ceviche Ingredients: 4 oz. Ahi Tuna 4 oz. King Salmon 3 oz Extra virgin olive oil Juice of two limes Coarse kosher salt 1 jalapeño pepper – minced and seeded Fresh chopped cilantro leaves.

Directions: Chill the fish well in the freezer for 10-12 minutes. Remove and slice 1/8 inch thick and arrange alternately on serving dish. Brush with lime juice and 3 oz. olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Marinate fish five minutes only. Serve on Sweet Potatoes Gaufrette.

Gaufrette Sweet Potatoes Ingredients: Sweet potato Extra virgin olive oil Pinch of cinnamon Pinch of Pinch of Sugar Pinch of Salt Pinch of Pepper Directions: Peel and thinly slice sweet potato. (Optional: press each slice with a mandoline for waffle texture.) Place on baking sheet. Brush with olive oil. Season with cinnamon, sugar, salt and pepper. Bake at 400° F until crisp (appx. 7 minutes). Arrange sweet potatoes around fish and serve.

use the mandoline,” says Delaney. Once sliced, the sweet potatoes are baked crisp and turn the color of autumn leaves. The sweet potatoes are dusted with a hint of cinnamon, sugar and salt. The three spices blend in such a way that the Gaufrette Sweet Potatoes are barely salty or sweet, but just right. The pleasing contrast of texture between Gaufrette Sweet Potatoes and the Ceviche becomes clear with the first bite of a piece of soft ceviche on a crisp sweet potato. “The wine selection is important to enjoy all the nuances of flavors in the a p p e t i z e r, ” says Delaney. He suggests Bex, a German Riesling that retails for approximately $14 a bottle. The wine appears ethereal in a glass, slightly citrine-yellow, and tastes just as airy. It has a mildly sweet and faintly fruity flavor. It also has a slight tingle of acidity that complements the lime in the ceviche. Sip the Riesling with a bite of the ceviche and suddenly you have a new taste as the flavors mix and recombine. For Delaney, this is what it is all about, finding new ways to contrast or complement a dish through unique combinations of flavors, colors, or textures. Bon appétit! ■

Sept/Oct 2008 51


Inside

M

editerranean LUXURY

52 Golden Isles Magazine

Leah Hopkins Photos by Harlan Hambright Story By


D A belly dancer entertains party guests in the living room of the Pope’s house.

Georgia Kellogg gets a henna tattoo.

Dana and Ewell Pope are two people who aren’t ready to retire yet, so they enjoy having a relaxing place to come home to after a busy day at the office. They also like to travel, and it was a trip to Spain coupled with a desire to have more outdoor living spaces that inspired the couple in the construction of their new home. Their large marsh front lot and the influence of the Spanish in island history also set the stage for the standards of Moorish construction– columns, horseshoe arched doorways, courtyards with fountains, and a white stucco exterior. On a trip to Morocco, that took place four months after starting construction, the Popes were introduced to artisans, while visiting the ancient city of Fez, sitting in the dirt creating intricate and beautiful mosaics and tiles. Tile makers in Medina of Fez, the historic city center of Old Fez, have been practicing their craft since the town’s founding in 790. Everything from making the clay to its final firing in a wood burning kiln is done by hand. The Popes selected several different styles of tile for their house. Courtyards are paved in unusually small terra cotta tiles that are only 2 ½ by 5 inches and doorways are framed in blue tiles with natural terra cotta. Tile makers paint the tile with a solid color and then scrape off a portion of the glaze to reveal the terra cotta underneath in an intricate pattern. An Arabic inscription, “God loves beauty and is beautiful” is emblazoned in the tiles above the doors leading to the garage and Ewell’s office. Another purchase from the trip is a Moroccan lantern that is hanging in the powder room. Light filled rooms either from lanterns or large windows are another hallmark of Moorish design that has been incorporated in the house. Overstuffed sofas and chairs and beautiful wood case goods are long on style and natural elegance and provide plenty of seating for visiting family and friends. Adrian Johnson and Lisa Torbett of Lisa Torbett Interiors were the interior designers. The Popes have collaborated with Lisa Torbett Interiors on several previous design projects. Architects Keith Summerour and Thad Truett gave the Popes a plan that also included one of their favorite rooms in the house, an outdoor pavilion on the second floor overlooking the marsh. In that room, a large fireplace and comfortable seating in the form of cushioned palettes makes the room a year-round option for entertaining.

Sept/Oct 2008 53


Pallets accented with Kilim pillows and inspired by a Marrakech hotel provide seating in an upstairs outdoor pavilion.

Dana adds, “I like the pavilion because you feel like you’re in the trees. We copied the pallets from a hotel in Marrakech. We were also inspired by Morocco’s Riads or mansions that serve as intimate hotels with the main structure centered on a patio or courtyard.” The pallets are accented with dozens of kilim pillows purchased from the Anadol Rug Company in Atlanta. With the natural beauty surrounding the house along with unusual design elements of more exotic locales, it is easy to feel like one is visiting a foreign land without ever leaving the area. Q

With the natural beauty surrounding the house along with unusual design elements of more exotic locales, it is easy to feel like one is visiting a foreign land without ever leaving St. Simons Island.

The doors leading to the garage and Ewell’s office are framed with tiles and the Arabic inscription above the doors reads, “God is beauty and is beautiful.”

54 Golden Isles Magazine


Georgia Kellogg, homeowner Dana Pope and party guests learn some belly dancing techniques at a Moroccan themed party in honor of Georgia’s 40th birthday.

The living room of the house with its beamed ceilings, large unframed windows and expansive views of the marsh.

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Are You Ready To Rock-N-Roll? Below: Unusually small terra cotta and white tiles are laid in an intricate design in the courtyard opposite the entry of the house. A fountain is framed in blue tiles also imported from Morocco.

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Sept/Oct 2008 55


Outside

A

Fly Fishing

By Kathi Williams

A lone fisherman clad in hip waders patiently casts his line into the babbling rapids of a rocky stream. That’s how most people cast the fly fisherman, in a scene right out of “A River Runs Through It.” Few picture him knee-deep in the surf or standing on the bow of a boat. Coastal waters are also popular among practitioners of the sport. They fly fish from boats – either for

56 Golden Isles Magazine

big game fish in deep water or for redfish in the shallow marsh canals – and they sight-cast off the beaches for tripletail and other surface fish. “Everyone does always picture ‘A River Runs Through It,’ but this area really is an ideal perfect place for fly fishing,” says Ellen Kennedy, who co-owns The Bedford Sportsman South with husband Larry Kennedy Jr., a fly fishing enthusiast and instructor.

“They have caught tarpon on a fly. You can fish from the beach. You can’t really wade here because of the marsh muck, but there is a little stream near the fishing pier on Jekyll Island that is nice. They also fly fish for bass in a lake at Blythe Island,” Ellen Kennedy says. Capt. Greg Hildreth, who has fished Coastal Georgia waters for close to 20 years and owns a charter company based at Golden Isles


Marina, says the Golden Isles offer a unique venue for y ďŹ shing. “The extensive network of Spartina islands, oyster laden tidal creeks and mudats that surround the islands offer some of the most beautiful backcountry y ďŹ shing in the world,â€? he says. Fly ďŹ shing is the purest form of ďŹ shing, beautiful in its simplicity. The y ďŹ sherman’s art is casting line rather than lure because a y is too light to be cast. That philosophy ows into the coastal environment as well, but the coastal y ďŹ sherman uses a different kind of magic to trick his prey into biting. “Our ies are more colorful,â€? Ellen Kennedy says. “Where in freshwater they imitate insects, here they imitate crabs, shrimp and minnows. One of the most successful ies we have is bright chartreuse, the Clousen Minnow.â€? RedďŹ sh is the coastal y ďŹ sherman’s favorite species. “RedďŹ sh are great because you can ďŹ sh for them year-round,â€? Hildreth says. “The best ďŹ shing is in the winter. They’re a pretty good size too, between 25 to 31 inches and 7 to 13 pounds. We haven’t been having much success with tarpon because of the water clarity. In the fall, speckled trout are a good catch.â€? In this age of ďŹ sh-ďŹ nders and depth gauges, who engages in the classic art of y ďŹ shing? “The guys who have done ďŹ n tackle and live bait tackle,â€? Hildreth says. “They want something more interactive. Fly ďŹ shing is more skillful, more like playing golf. The allure is that it is harder to master. It’s not about catching the most ďŹ sh. You have to see the ďŹ sh and present the y in the right position. It’s more of a challengeâ€?

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58 Golden Isles Magazine

Capt. Greg Hildreth

Hildreth says that fly fishing isn’t that hard to learn. There are really just a few basic steps that need to be mastered, but he highly recommends having a lesson before going out on a saltwater fly fishing excursion. He says that a good guide can instruct on the boat, but it is much better to practice on land. An excursion with someone who has not had this practice is often not much fun for the angler and a lot of work for the guide. Hildreth points eager novices to Capt. Larry Kennedy Jr. Kennedy has been in business for more than 40 years as a guide, outfitter and naturalist, and is considered a “dean of fly fishermen.” In 2006, Orvis named him as the national fly fishing guide service of the year. While maybe it’s not the serene babbling brook and the rhythmic sway of the line that pops first to mind, coastal fly fishing feeds the soul all the same. There’s nothing like pulling up the boat to see a school of 25 to 50 redfish on the mud flat, seeing their fins and tails up,” says Hildreth. “When you see that, it gets your blood pumping. There’s nothing like it.” Q


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GoldenIsles 20

MAGAZINE

UNDER

40

Golden Isles Magazine is looking for the best and the brightest young professionals in our community for our 2nd annual “20 Under 40” issue. We will feature 20 up-and-comers who make Brunswick and the Golden Isles better by giving generously of their time and talents. Send your nominations to Amy Carter, editor, by email to acarter@goldenislesmagazine.com or by regular mail at 247 Edwards Plaza, St. Simons Island, GA 31522 by September 25, 2008. Please include contact information for your nominee and a brief explanation of your reasons for nominating.

Look for Golden Isles Magazine’s “20 Under 40” issue in shops, restaurants and business offices throughout the community in early November.

Sept/Oct 2008 59


Humor

a

SOUTHERN yankee

A transplant tells of her journey to becoming a true southerner.

By Lori Lamore Now

don’t go calling me a Yankee just because I talk funny. There’s more to being Southern than meets the ear. And I reckon I know a few things about what it means to be Southern. As my Mama always says, “Southern blood is thicker than molasses.” I might not have been born in the South, but I’m of the South. Technically, I was born and raised South of the Mason-Dixon Line in Maryland, but my kin in Macon are quick to point out that I am their Yankee cousin. So it was no surprise to me that I was labeled a Yankee when I settled in the Golden Isles. But, I am not a stranger to the South, either. 60 Golden Isles Magazine

My family history is a veritable Southern Peyton Place that could make a belle blush. Well, with my Georgia legacy reaching back to the Revolutionary War and continuing through the Civil War and two World Wars to the present, what do you expect? That’s plenty of time for folks to get into trouble. So I am of the South. As a child, nothing could make me much happier than peering out the family car window on our annual sojourn to the land of my mother to see the red clay and Stuckey’s. Forget the red clay. I dearly treasured my genuine, authentic piece of Southern cotton and my Mexican jumping beans from Stuckey’s. These purchases definitely impressed my little Yankee playmates.

Once we arrived in Macon or Millen, my mother was happier than a pig in a poke. She was greeted as the prodigal Southerner. My Dad and I were the Yankees. But my aunts and uncles didn’t hold it against me and greeted me with big ‘ol hugs and the sweetest of all Southern welcomes: “Give me some sugar, Sugar.” The best greeting this Yankee could ever get. I fondly recall family gatherings with haute fried cuisine that resonates in my soul (and arteries) as only it can for a Southerner. My Aunt Mildred’s pan-fried cornbread and pork chops, the wonderful sweet diabetes tea, my mother’s fried chicken, a mess of all types of beans and peas served with chow-


chow or hot pepper sauce, my Aunt Iris’s barbecue and caramel cakes. These can’t be beat by anyone, anywhere, anytime. The best days of my childhood were when I became filthy dirty and covered in sticky, salty sweat playing in the sweltering Georgia summer heat. I was like Tom Sawyer swinging on ropes, roaming through the farmland, chasing chickens with chicken feed, discovering what seemed to be a deserted smokehouse hidden in the woods, finding tiny kittens in a dark barn, and walking barefoot on a hot dirt road. And not knowing till bedtime that I’d been completely bitten by mosquitoes from my noggin’ to my toes. Eventually my parents returned and retired in the South. I graduated from Wesleyan College in Macon. Alas, foolish little ‘ol me left my beloved Southern homeland after graduation because of some Yankee boy. You gotta watch out for those fast talkers. Well, I finally had enough sense to come out of the Yankee rain – and snow. So my family and I loaded up the van and headed for the Isles, the Golden Isles, that is, to return to the land of my ancestors. When we landed on these Golden Isles, it was no surprise to me that my family and I were Yankees. But we have good Southern genes and it didn’t take my younguns a New Orlean’s minute before they were “Yes, mam’ing” and “Yes, sirring” like good little Southern children. Bless their little hearts. In fact, they now are so adapted to the lowcountry that they don’t even put sugar on their grits. One day, just like their Mama, they too will be of the South. Q Sept/Oct 2008 61


Best

d e t a r Illust

Coasta

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of

1 2

4th Annual East Beach 4th of July parade: East Beach Association members, homeowners, family, friends and pets made up a spirited procession from the Maritime Museum to Gould’s Inlet. The parade included live music, golf carts, scooters, bicycles, wagons, strollers, convertibles, walkers and four-legged friends. 1. From left, Ann Capallo, baby Emma and Brit Edlin 2. Sgt. Randall Lacey receives a flag from a young parade participant 3. Brooks and Bennett Long (grandsons of Marvin and Sue Long)

3

4

5

6

Davis 5th Annual Fourth of July Party: Red, white and blue attire, bluegrass music, barbeque and patriotic songs led by Col. George Stapleton were the order of the day at this holiday party. 4. Daphne and Russ Marane 5. Gae and Eric Andreae Virginia Ramsey’s 80th Birthday Party: The former State Representative from Brunswick celebrated her birthday in style with friends and family at the home of her son, Buzzy Ramsey. 6. Virginia Ramsey blows out the candles on her birthday cake. 7. Virginia Ramsey (center) with gathered family Jazz in the Park: Rob Denty and Johnnie Eason drew great crowds to their summer concerts on the lighthouse lawn. 8. Lori Amman and Joe Cody 9. Brad and Stacy King 10. From left, Hannah Dunlap, Ellis Dennard and Lottie 11. Mitch and Peggy Parrish 12. Anne Goodstein and Mark Mansfield

62 Golden Isles Magazine

7


8

In the “Best of Coastal Illustrated,â€? we will bring you select photographs of local events and social gatherings from the pages and ďŹ les of the Coastal Illustrated. Check these pages to see who you know and what’s happening around the Golden Isles.

9

10 Don’t Play Tug -A- War With Your Heating And Cooling Needs

11

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Sept/Oct 2008 63


Best

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Coasta

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of

Golden Isles Magazine was a proud sponsor of the YWCA's second annual Dancing With the Stars – Southern Style fundraiser on Jekyll Island Aug. 9. Seven couples danced for a sold-out crowd of more than 550 people in the Hartley Auditorium. The winning couples were Georgia Kellogg and Buff Leavy, in fist; Courtney Herndon and Mel Baxter, in second; and Angie Young and Dr. Mark Watkins, in third. Also entertaining the crowd were: Laura Cross and John Swinson; Desiree Varnedoe and Wayne Bennett; Traci Mattea Sproull and Patrick Ebri; and Brittany Rehling and Jerome Clark, and exhibition dancers Christina Proffitt and James Grella. 1. Mark Mercer and Gigi Goble 2. Lynn & George Yarborough 3. From left, Mason Waters and Ken Ferrell 4. Woody Woodside 5. Courtney Herndon and Mel Baxter 6. Georgia Kellogg and Buff Leavy 7. James Grella 8. Dr. Mark Watkins and Angie Young 9. John Swinson and Laura Cross

64 Golden Isles Magazine

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GOLDEN ISLES DINING BEACHCOMBER BBQ & GRILL

CAPTAIN JOE’S SEAFOOD

SHANE’S RIB SHACK

319 ARNOLD ROAD / ST. SIMONS ISLAND

5296 NEW JESUP HIGHWAY / BRUNSWICK

315 VILLAGE AT GLYNN PLACE / BRUNSWICK

(912) 634-5699 “No shoes, no shirt, no problem!” Great BBQ and burgers just a block from the beach on St. Simons Island. Dine-in, family-size take out or catering. Worth the trip! You’ll LOVE the ribs! Open 11 am - 10 pm daily.

(912) 264-8771 Captain Joe’s Seafood features seafood, combinations such as steak and chicken, salads, an endless soup and salad bar and a children’s menu. Hours are 11 am to 10 pm every day.

BLACKWATER GRILL

70 GOLDEN ISLES PLAZA / BRUNSWICK

260 REDFERN VILLAGE/ ST. SIMONS ISLAND

(912) 634-6333 Blackwater features Low Country Cajun & Southern Coastal Cuisine in a casual, friendly atmosphere. Located in Redfern Village. Open Sunday through Thursday 5:30 pm to 9:00 pm; Friday & Saturday 5:30 to 10:00 pm. BROOMELLI BOYS PIZZERIA 760 SCRANTON ROAD/BRUNSWICK AT THE SCRANTON RD. ENTRANCE TO THE MALL

(912) 267-7075 Broomelli Boys pizza is made the traditional way – hand-tossed and cooked in a brick oven. Their dough, veggies, meats and sauce are all prepared fresh daily. Whole pies or by the slice. Dine-In/Carry-Out. Beer & wine. Open 11 am to 10 pm Monday through Saturday. BUBBA GARCIA’S REDFERN VILLAGE / ST. SIMONS ISLAND

(912) 634-0073 The only Mexican restaurant on St. Simons Island! Better than Tex/Mex! Open 11:30 am to 10:00 pm.

66 Golden Isles Magazine / Sept Oct

CHICK-FIL-A (912) 466-9911 &KLFN ÀO $ SURYLGHV SDWURQV ZLWK chicken for all occasions through its catering service, and to come in to enjoy. Hours are 6:30 am to 10 pm daily, except Sundays. MATTEO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 5323 NEW JESUP HIGHWAY / BRUNSWICK

(912) 267-0248 Matteo’s, “the place to eat Italian in the Golden Isles,” has been family owned and operated since 1983. Hours are 11 am to 2:30 pm and 5 to 9:30 pm Mondays through Fridays and 5 to 9:30 pm Saturdays. MILLHOUSE STEAKHOUSE 124 GLYNCO PARKWAY / BRUNSWICK

(912) 264-3424 Millhouse Steakhouse serves steaks that have been aged 28 days and cut for perfection. It also offers Cajun cuisine and old-fashioned desserts. Hours are 4 to 10:30 pm Sundays through Thursdays and 4 to 11:30 pm Fridays and Saturdays.

(912)264-4227

70 RETREAT VILLAGE / ST. SIMONS ISLAND

(912)268-2272

Dine In or Take Out, this is the place for ribs. BBQ, wings, sandwiches, salads and chicken tenders are also on the menu! Open daily 11 am to 9 pm.


Captain Joe’s Seafood 1HZ -HVXS +LJKZD\ *O\QQ $YHQXH %UXQVZLFN *HRUJLD

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Sept/Oct 2008 67


CALENDAR OF EVENTS

SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER EVENTS | OPPORTUNITIES | HAPPENINGS | GATHERINGS

September 20-28th

2008 Savannah Jazz Festival Performers include Simone, the Savannah Jazz Orchestra, Donald Harrison Jr. and the James Cotton Blues Band. www.savannahjazzfestival.org

Sept. 1-30: Juried Members’ Art Show at Glynn Art Association, 319 Mallery St. St. Simons Island. Exhibit includes art in mediums of photography, oil, acrylic, watercolor, pastel, pottery, graphics, glass. Details: www. glynnart.org

Sept. 17: Chef Rob Sartorio of the Jekyll Island Club Hotel holds a Northern California Flair themed Chef’s Demonstration that includes two courses with generous tastings and printed recipes at 1:30 p.m. Details: www.jekyllclub.com

Sept. 19: $ 7DVWH RI WKH 9LQH 0RUH EHQHĂ€ W IRU &RDVWDO &RDOL tion for Children takes place at the St. Simons Island Casino from 7-10 p.m. Tickets are $50 per person. Details: 262-1855

Sept. 1-30: Jekyll Island Arts Association Group Show featuring painters Dottie Clark and Leah Holland and sculptor Mary Whitty on display at Goodyear Cottage in the Jekyll Island Historic District. Gallery hours are Mon. through Fri. Noon-4 p.m., Sat./Sun. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Details: 635-3920.

Sept. 12-Oct. 31: McIntosh Art Association presents "An Artist Walk through McIntosh" exhibit featuring local artists at the Old Jail Art Center, 404 North Way, Darien. Opening reception will be held Sept. 12 from 6-8 p.m. Details: 437-7711

Sept. 20: The Jacksonville Symphony Orchestra opens its 2008 VHDVRQ ZLWK D QLJKW RI Ă€ QH GLQLQJ DQG WKHDWHU WDLORU made for Golden Isles residents. The Jax Symphony and the cast of the Alhambra Dinner Theater will stage the classic musical “West Side Storyâ€? in the Times-Union Center’s Moran Theater, but the evening begins at 5 p.m. with a special dinner Halyards on St. Simons Island. 7LFNHWV DUH SHU SHUVRQ DQG LQFOXGH D SUL[ Ă€ [H GLQQHU luxury bus service to and from Jacksonville, show ticket, tax and gratuity. For reservations, call Bill Cosnotti (904)356-0426. Details: www.jaxsymphony.org

Sept. 14: Golden Isles Arts and Humanities Association presents Jazz in the Park, featuring guitarist Barry Greene. Concert takes place 7-9 p.m. on the lawn at the St. Simons Lighthouse. Admission price: $10 adults, $5 ages 6-12, under 6 free. Details: www.goldenislesarts.org

68 Golden Isles Magazine

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Sept. 20: Garrison Dinner at Fort King George features dishes authentic for the period and recreated debate EHWZHHQ %ULWLVK RIĂ€ FHUV DQG 6SDQLVK HPLVVDULHV Dinner and debate take place from 7-9 p.m. Ticket price is $30. Details: www.gastateparks.org/fortkinggeorge

Sept. 26: Golden Isles Arts and Humanities Association presents Ripe for Change, a documentary about the economic and environmental implications of the worlds food supply and how we can change the way LW ZRUNV 7KLV LV WKH À UVW VFUHHQLQJ RI WKH 6RXWKHUQ &LUFXLW )LOP 6HULHV VL[ À OP WUDYHOLQJ LQGHSHQGHQW WRXU WKURXJK $SULO ZLWK À OPPDNHUV SUHVHQW for audience comments and questions. 7 p.m. at the Ritz Theatre, 1530 Newcastle St., Brunswick. AdPLVVLRQ SULFH IRU À OP LV IXOO VHULHV SDVV LV Details: www.goldenislesarts.org

Through Sept. 26: “Succession,� an exhibition by painter and printmaker Curtis Bartone, at the City of Savannah’s Gallery S.P.A.C.E., 9 W. Henry St. Bartone explores in paintings, drawings and etchings the idea of “wilderness� and how it has changed from being a real place to being a memory. Gallery hours 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. Free off-street parking is available. Details: www. savannahga.gov/arts.

October 9-13: The 6th Annual Georgia’s Colonial Coast Birding & Nature Festival will take place October 9-13 at the Jekyll Island Convention Center. Event includes trips to Georgia’s barrier islands and other natural areas, keynote speaker Pete Dunne, family activities DQG QDWXUH ZDONV VHPLQDUV E\ À HOG ELRORJLVWV SKR tography seminars, raptor shows, exhibitors, artists and more. Details: www.coastalgeorgiabirding.org Oct. 24: The American Cancer Society will present its 9th Annual Breast Cancer Fashion Show & Luncheon at 11:30 a.m. Oct. 24 at the Sea Island Club on St. Simons Island. Tickets are $50. Details: 265-7117.

October 27-30: 7KH 3XOLW]HU /HJDF\ LQ *HRUJLD $ IRXU GD\ FHOHEUDWLRQ RI À QH ZULWLQJ DQG writers presented by the University of Georgia's award-winning quarterly, The Georgia Review at the Jekyll Island Club Hotel on October 27-30. The event features four recent Pulitzer Prize winners that have an association with the state of Georgia, the University of Georgia, and/or The Georgia Review. Historian Edward Larson, journalist and historian Hank Klibanoff and poets Natasha Tretheway and Stephen Dunn will each participate in a variety of activities over the course of the week, including readings, panel discussions, question-and-answer sessions and informal gatherings with attendees.

Oct. 30-Nov. 1: 2008 Hilton Head Island Concours d’Elegance & Motoring Festival on HIlton Head Island and in Savannah, including a two-day exhibition of vintage race cars honoring the 100th anniversary RI WKH *UHDW 6DYDQQDK 5DFHV $PHULFD¡V Ă€ UVW grand prix road races, in Savannah Oct. 30 and 31. Details: www.hhiconcours.com

This landmark cultural event provides an opportunity for the public to meet with these four talented and distinguished authors in a beautiful and historically relevant oceanside setting. An event ticket includes admission to all conference events, including author readings and book signings, question-and-answer sessions, most meals, Jekyll Island History tours, and tours of the Georgia Sea Turtle Center. Tickets can also be purchased for individual days. Details: www.thegeorgiareview.com.

October 17 & 18th

Brunswick Rockin’ Stewbilee Sept. 27: Dances and Impressions of South America, a concert by classical guitarist Michael Nigro, featuring music of Argentina, Brazil and Venezuela. 7:30 p.m. at the Jekyll Island Club Hotel, 635 Beachview Drive, Jekyll Island. Admission price is $15. Reservations required. Details: www. jekyllclub.com

Mary Ross Waterfront Park, Featuring KC & The Sunshine Band

Oct. 4: American Cancer Society 3rd Annual Victory Kids Gala at St. William’s Catholic Church. Open to children 6-12 years. Details: 265-6536.

Sept/Oct 2008 69


Worship ors In the e golden golde isles

Bethel Evangel Christian Church 801 I Street Brunswick, GA 31520 912-265-3800 Pastor: Paul McKenzie Sr. Sunday Worship: 11:00 a.m.

Northside Baptist Church 935 Chapel Crossing Road Brunswick, GA 31525 912-265-3063 Senior Pastor: Dr. Craig Hartzog Sunday Worship: 10:30 a.m.

Brookman New Hope Methodist Church

Hwy 82 Brunswick, GA 31525 912-264-6200 Pastor: Ben Rainey Sunday Worship: 11:00 a.m.

Norwich Baptist Church 5661 New Jesup Hwy. Brunswick, GA 31523 912-265-0494 Pastor: Dr. Art Cyphers Sunday Worship: 10:30 a.m. & 6:00 p.m

Calvary Baptist Church 3105 Wildwood Drive Brunswick, GA 31520 912-265-1390 Preacher: Dr. Earl Boyette Sunday Worship: 11:00 a.m. & 6:00 p.m.

Pine Haven Baptist Church 176 Old Cate Road Brunswick, GA 31525 912-264-8487 Pastor: Sammy Chancey Sunday Worship: 11:00 a.m. & 6:00 p.m.

Coastal Baptist Church 7445 Blythe Island Highway Brunswick, GA 31523 912-269-3333 Pastor Larry Lane, ThD

St. Simons Presbyterian Church 205 Kings Way St. Simons Island, GA 31522 (912) 638-2220 Pastor: Rev. Bob Brearley Sunday Worship: 8:45 a.m. and 11:00 a.m.

Frederica Baptist Church 1700 Frederica Road St. Simons Island, GA 31522 912-634-2833 Senior Pastor: Whit Chapman Sunday Worship: 8:30 a.m. & 11:00 a.m. Golden Isles Church of God 200 Boswell Lane Brunswick, GA 31520 912-265-2621 Pastor: Todd Garner Sunday Worship: 10:35 a.m. Hosanna Tabernacle Church 36 Cornerstone Drive Suite 154 Brunswick, GA 31523 912-399-3910 Pastor: Julius E. Hope Sunday Worship: 9:30 a.m. 70 Golden Isles Magazine

Zion Baptist Church 1611 G Street Brunswick, GA 31520 912-264-3105 Rev: Craig Campbell, Interim Pastor Sunday Worship: 11:00 a.m. Zion Rock Missionary Baptist Church 3200 Gordon Street Brunswick, GA 31520 912-264-6188 Pastor: James C. Edwards Sunday Worship: 11:00 a.m.



Parting Shot

Pelican’s Perch Savoring the ďŹ nal days of summer by the sea. Photographed by Benjamin Galland

72 Golden Isles Magazine


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