CONTENTS
{ERODED EXPRESSIONISM} creative direction menswear print & graphics vm & Interiors
{ D I G I TA L D A Z E } creative direction menswear print & graphics vm & Interiors
{ANCIENT ARTIZAN} creative direction menswear print & graphics vm & Interiors
ERODED EXPRESSIONISM
Although the economy is no longer in it’s previously doomed state; with unemployment down, and house prices rising at their fastest rate in 11 years for example; long term problems are still looming. Therefore we begin to look to other ways of boosting our economy, and saving money by cutting back on our overconsumption. Our economic boom in Britain in the 80s made way for a rise in ‘yuppies’, power dressing and ‘consumerism’. However these boom years ended suddenly in 1987, famously known as ‘Black Monday’. Generation X are now more conscious than ever of their spending after their experience of hardship in the 90s. They want to learn from their mistakes and hold onto their money for the future. Therefore luxuries are no longer an essential. With the current recession heavily affecting Generation Y, they too have had to learn to hold back on their spending after the huge rise of unemployment from the start of the recession in 2008. Meaning this younger generation have fewer job opportunities and very little money to spend. Even more so with University fee rises for those continuing education, as they are then starting their working lives already in greater dept than ever before.
kay kwok a/w 14
creative direction
Therefore translated into our trend predictions, as a society our focus will be less on the extravagant details, so as to save money for the future, by finding and creating beauty in the basic. This will be done through the use of recycled or raw materials for example; such as wood, metal, paint.
The colouring of this look for Autumn/Winter 2014 is more neutral and monochromatic than the previous shabby chic trend. Grey is the key colour in comparison to the deep browns and rustic reds of previous years trends.
versace a/w 14
With influences from the shabby chic trend which has continued growing since the 1980s, but now has a modern twist. Products are now distressed looking from the start. Rather than made to ‘look’ shabby, they are just beautified in their original form.
{RUGGED RICHNESS}
Fashion Direction: > > > >
paint splatter prints painted ombre denim matching suits and co-ords distressed demin
raf simons a/w 14
raf simons a/w 14
versace a/w 14
MENSWEAR
Influences:
hunter gather a/w 14
> Artists : jackson pollock, jennifer mehigan, mark tobey > art movement: Abstract expressionism > future exhibitions: Phyllida Barlow @ Tate Britain Mar- Nov 2014 > Current & Past Economic climate > Liberties Window Displays > Visual Merchandising in Berlin > Designers: Raf Simons, Hunter Gather, Versace
{ R AW B E A U T Y } PRINT & GRAPHICS
Graphics: > > > > >
bold paint strokes heavily layered painterly splatters cracking paint handwritten typography graffiti sprays
{INDUSTRIAL ELEGANCE}
Phylida barlow, tate britain
VM & INTERIORS
Colours: > > > >
concrete greys dirty whites ochre blackened brights
digital daze
creative direction With fast pace technological advances, science is making futuristic fantasy into reality. Digital Daze as a trend presents a glimpse of what’s to come in terms how technology will shape our culture and the future of fashion. As a culture we have never been more reliant on technology in our everyday lives. This A/W 2014 trend presents how this reliance could be our downfall vs. the prospects for our future and how technology will provide complete efficiency. The beauty of this trend is how technology is creating its own visual aesthetic. With advances in computer graphics and garment design the future of fashion is becoming more extraordinary by the day. Digital Daze takes forward the strong white palette of spring/summer 2014 and blends in dark monochrome tones. With static and digitalized prints Autumn/Winter has a complex palette with subtle neon undertones, in particular hues of blue and green. This trend shows extremes of minimal white wash ensembles and basic cuts with busy matching prints to intricate 3D printed garments. New technological technique of morphing fabrics is being introduced on the runway, in everything from wools to leather. Shearling morphs into classic checks and leather into supple suede and suiting. The graphics and prints in Digital Daze Menswear show the conflict between the positive and negative affects of technology. With smashed Perspex and pixelated prints we see the glitches and malfunctions in the technology we rely on. Sleek clean lines oppose along with intricate geometric prints along with beautiful and complex 3D printed garments and fabric morphing, showing the beauty and intricacy modern technology can provide us.
{ M O N O C H R O M E M AT R I X } InfluenceS: • Advances in technology • Prospects for the future vs Technological downfall • Complete efficiency • Art and Architecture: Otaku Gangsta, Zaha Hadid Vortexx and Lucy McRae. • V/M: Tapestry Museum in Portugal, Premium light, Nike Concept Store, LNCC • Designers: Iris van Herpen, 3D garments. Frankie Morello and Thierre Mugler. • Future exhibitions: Digital Revolution. Barbican Centre. July - Sep 2014-02-27 • Film influence: Transcendence and Robocop
MENSWEAR
Fashion direction
• • • • •
Busy matching prints Monochrome Fabric morphing 3D Printed garments White wash ensembles
{ S TAT I C V I E W } PRINT & GRAPHICS
Graphics • Geometry
• Static • White noise • Pixels
{ELECTRIC ENERGY } VM & INTERIORS
Colour • • • •
Monochrome pallets White Wash Tones of blue and Green. Hints of neon
ancient artizan
creative direction Inspired by the vibrant culture of Latin America, Ancient Artisan focuses on the traditional crafted clothing of native tribes which are well known for their intense colours, geometric patterns and intricate details. As many countries in South America are beginning to economically develop with Brazil being the seventh largest economy in the world, a larger awareness and influence is coming out of South America and spreading across the globe. This will only be furthermore enhanced later this year with the FIFA world cup being held in Brazil and then the 2016 Olympics, an event which generates more coverage than any other. In the past few years there has been a rise in the amount of people that want to travel the world, vacating to more diverse and cultured countries which provide the individual with more of an experience and story to tell. This is often showed off through their various social media accounts, posting photographs of where they have been and what they have bought. This travelling aesthetic has therefore been transferred into fashion, social and interior trends with individuals willing to pay more money for one off handcrafted pieces that are unique and exclusive to the owner. The nature, wanderlust trend from spring/ summer 2014 involved a lot of tassels and fringe detail, folk art print and embroidery and crochet styles. This has been developed for fall 2014 by encompassing a more mature and smarter structure with darker hues and larger geometric patterns.
{ T R AV E L L I N G T R I B E S } MENSWEAR Influences
• South American culture • Crafting things yourself • Persian carpets and wallpapers • Bloomsbury artists • Artworks that utilize bright colours and strong shapes • Film: The Grand Budapest Hotel
Fashion Direction • • • • •
Structured, blazer Jackets Oversized, textured prints Geometric shapes Repeated, detailed patterns Soft, wool textures
{ABORIGINAL ARTIZAN} PRINT & GRAPHICS
Graphics • Blocks of
bold
colours • Angular crossing lines • Vibrant clashing stripes • Cosy, textured finish
{ M U LT I - C O L O U R E D M Y T H } VM & INTERIORS
Colour
• Warm, sandy tones • Seductive strips of deep burgundy • Dark, earthy undercurrents
{FORMULA} Formula trend document is aimed at stylists, graphic designers and creatives. The trend document is heavily based on visuals which set a style and mood of the upcoming trends which is why we thought individuals in the creative industry would be most suited to our trend document. We decided to do it like this as we all feel more confident in expressing our ideas visually rather than verbally. The style of our trend document if printed would be like an artists scretchbook with recycled paper inside and would be leather bound with craft stitching alone the spine. link to the group pinterest page: http://www.pinterest.com/ megparkinsfcp/
{APPENDIX} ERODED IMPRESSIONISM : Creative Direction : Jackson Pollock Artwork. Available at: <http://uploads5.wikipaintings.org/images/ jackson-pollock/not_detected_185311.jpg> [Accessed 2nd March 2014] Versace AW14 Ombre Painted Denim. Available at: <http://uploads5.wikipaintings. org/images/jackson-pollock/not_detected_185311.jpg> [Accessed 2nd March 2014] Kay Kwok green painted print AW14. Available at: <http://www.londoncollections. co.uk/designers_catwalk_overlay.aspx?designerid=2250&SeasonID=46#2> [Accessed 2nd March 2014] Menswear Versace AW14 Splatter printed t-shirt. Available at: <http://www. patternprintsjournal.com/2014/01/prints-patterns-textures-and-details_18.html> [Accessed 1st March 2014] Versace AW14 double denim distressed. Available at: <http://media-cache-ak0. pinimg.com/originals/07/af/b9/07afb90e65972a99f4ebbdcffb6ceccd.jpg> [Accessed 1st March 2014] Raf Simons AW14 behind the scenes black and white splatter men. Available at: <https://24.media.tumblr.com/1dfb4d1521b3e060a5a2470f28e2e97d/tumblr_ n0db3rLGFF1qlpi6jo1_500.jpg> [Accessed 28th February 2014] Raf Simons AW14 colour blocking on black and white splatter coat. Available at: <http://www.style.com/fashionshows/detail/slideshow/F2014MEN-RSIMONS/#33> [Accessed 28th February 2014] Raf Simons AW14 purple splatter double denim & green splatter bag. Available at: <http://weekend.knack.be/lifestyle/mode/fashionweek/modeweek-parijs-raf-simonsshowt-kleurrijke-mannencollectie/album-4000501512517.htm#photo-4> [Accessed 28th February 2014] Raf Simons AW14 black and white coat striped collar. Available at: <http://mediacache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/e9/03/fe/e903fec0aa81373de18c55277b398d57.jpg> [Accessed 28th February 2014] Jackson Pollock painting 1949. Available at: <http://www.wikipaintings.org/en/ search/jackson%20pollock/2> [Accessed 1st March 2014] Hunter Gather AW14 green & yellow heavy paint splatter double denim. Available at: <http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/originals/57/3c/ dc/573cdc41baa0713a04ccfe41d70cbde6.jpg> [Accessed 2nd March 2014] print & graphic Own Photograph Bearded Man VM from Berlin Trade Show Premium [Accessed 2nd March 2014] Own Photograph cracked paint graphic in display from Berlin Trade Show capsule [Accessed 2nd March 2014] Jason Craighead- the heart of a butterfly mixed media on paper â&#x20AC;˘ 2011. Available
at: <http://www.jasoncraighead.com/works-on-paper.shtml> [Accessed 28th February 2014] Katsuhiro Otomo shattered/caved in wall. Available at: <http://crematorie.tumblr. com> [Accessed 27th February 2014] VM & interiors Own Photograph splatter paint hangers from Berlin Trade Show Premium [Accessed 2nd March 2014] Own Photograph sign outside shop in Berlin [Accessed 2nd March 2014] Veja and Centre Commercial Concept Store Paris. Available at: <http://trendland. com/trendstore-veja-x-centre-commercial-paris/> [Accessed 28th February 2014] Industrial Rustic Kitchen. Available at: <http://www.cotemaison.fr> [Accessed 2nd March 2014] Bedroom with whitewashed brick wall behind. Available at: <http://www. bloodandchampagne.com> [Accessed 2nd March 2014] Industrial table & chairs. Available at: <http://jjooddyy.tumblr.com> [Accessed 28th February 2014] Phyllida Barlow exhibition, Tate Britain Commission 2014 sculptures. Available at: <http://www.timeout.com/london/art/phyllida-barlow-tate-britaincommission-2014> [Accessed 1st March 2014] Living room with colour stained walls & matching cushions on sofa. Available at: <http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/a1/e3/31/ a1e331299a5f097e0ccdf6c017b981c4.jpg> [Accessed 2nd March 2014] DIGITAL DAZE : Pixel Mania. Weandthecolor.com (2013) http://weandthecolor.com/pixel-maniafashion-artwork/21762 (21 February 2014) Geometric Jumper. Fuckyeahfashionguys.tumblr.com (2014). Via Pinterest, http:// fuckyeahfashionguys.tumblr.com/post/9384864517 (24 February 2014) Digital Revolution. www.timeout.com (2014) http://www.timeout.com/london/ art/digital-revolution-an-immersive-exhibition-of-art-design-film-music-andvideogames (22 February 2014) Frankie Morello Menswear. 24.media.tumblr.com (2013) http://24.media.tumblr. com/8896f2e43d5bd5df75a6db3e6e99c1b1/tumblr_mgpj1z0yHv1qcyqxqo1_500.jpg (24 February 2014) Fabric Morphing. www.wgsn.com (2014) (http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/ content/report/Catwalk_Shows/Seasonal_Analysis/AW14-15/Menswear/Overviews/_ catwalksseasonalanalysis/fabric_directives.html (28 February 2014) Nocturne, Premium. Own Photograph (2014) Menswear, Capsule. Own Photograph. (2014) Kay Kwok Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s A/W â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;14. www.fashionising.com (2014) http://www.fashionising.com/runway/b--kay-kwok-mens-aw-14-mens-68602.html#0 (1 March 2014) www.homotography.blogspot.it (2014) Via Pinterest, http://homotography.blogspot. it/2013/01/dirk-bikkembergs-fall-winter-2013-14.html?zx=8642b3cf7b446903 (1 March 2014)
Criminal Damage. www.wgsn.com (2014) http://www.wgsn.com/content/report/ Trade_Shows/Full_Report/2014/January/Trends/a-w-14-15--berlin-tradeshows-print_ graphics-analysis.html (20 February 2014) David Szauder: Failed Memories. www.myampgoesto11.tumblr.com (2013). http:// myampgoesto11.tumblr.com/post/38637442561/david-szauder-failed-memories (20 February 2014) Geometric Shapes. www.architecturemas.tumblr.com (2012) http://architecturemas. tumblr.com/post/16863447003/theevildead-sacred-geometry-the-platonic (1 March 2014) Quietness. www. anothermag.com (2013) http://www.anothermag.com/reader/view/6460/ Federico_Proietti (20 February 2014) Sacred Geometry. www.migurski.tumblr.com (2013) http://migurski.tumblr.com/ post/48776975707 (02 March 2014) Geometry. www.designspiration.net (2012) http://designspiration.net/ image/479288937419/ (02 March 2014) Transcendence. www.imdb.com (2014) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2209764/ (21 March 2014) Geometric VM, Bright. Own Photograph (2014) Light Tunnel, Premium. Own Photograph (2014) Vortexx by Zaha Hadid www.enlightermagazine.com (2009) http://www. enlightermagazine.com/projects/vortexx-light-zaha-hadid (21 March 2014) Ancient Artisan : creative direction : Bohemianism : Colors of Peru. The Bohmerian (2012) Available at: http://www. thebohmerian.com/2012/07/south-korean-actress-han-hye-jin-photographed-byalexander-neumann-in-colors-of-peru-for-the-july-2012-summmer-issue-of-voguekorea/ [Accessed 21 February 2014] Brazil. Flickr. Available at: https://secure.flickr.com/photos/ thegentleman/399572453/sizes/l/ [Accessed 21 February 2014] Vanessa Bell. Tate (2014) Available at: https://www.tate.org.uk/art/images/ work/T/T01/T01935_10.jpg [Accessed 23 February 2014] Skull face. Tumblr. Available at: http://pinkbowcity.tumblr.com/post/5942515025 [Accessed 21 February 2014] E. Tautz A/W 14. WGSN.com (2014) Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy. ntu.ac.uk/content/wgsn/unifiedsearch.html?q=e.%20tautz&tags=&type=all&t=all&_ charset_=utf-8 [Accessed 20 February 2014] Valentino A/W 14. Style.com (2014) Available at: http://www.style.com/ fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2014MEN-VALENTIN/#5 [Accessed 27 February 2014] Burberry Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Runway A/W 14. Burberry.com (2014) Available at: http:// uk.burberry.com/shows-events/menswear-aw14/#/all-looks [Accessed 21 February 2014] Paul Smith A/W 14. WGSN.com (2014) Available at: http://www.wgsn.com. ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/wgsn/unifiedsearch.html?q=paul%20smith%20 menswear&tags=&type=all&t=all&_charset_=utf-8 [Accessed 20 February 2014]
Antonio Marras A/W 14. WGSN.com (2014) Available at: http://www.wgsn.com. ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/wgsn/unifiedsearch.html?q=antonio%20marras%20 menswear&tags=&type=all&t=all&_charset_=utf-8 [Accessed 20 February 2014] Yohji Yamamoto A/W 14. Patterns Print Journal (2014) Available at: http:// www.patternprintsjournal.it/2014/02/stampe-patterns-textures-e-dettagli.html [Accessed 27 February 2014] Aztec shirt street style. A Matter of Style (2013) Available at: http:// matterofstyle.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/5-ideas-to-customize-your-shirt.html [Accessed 21 February 2014] Valentino Coat A/W 14. WGSN.com (2014) Available at: http://www.wgsn. com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/wgsn/unifiedsearch.html?q=valentino%20 menswear&tags=&type=all&t=all&_charset_=utf-8 [Accessed 20 February 2014] Eleven Paris Showroom, Bread and Butter. Own Photograph (2014) Djinns Trainers and Cap, Premium. Own Photograph (2014) New Celibacy by Nick Georgiou. Opera Gallery (2013) Available at: http://www. operagallery.com/ang/new-celibacy-nick-georgiou.html [Accessed 22 February 2014] Aztec print street style. TheSartorialist.com. Available at: http://www. thesartorialist.com/page/6/ [Accessed 22 February 2014] Burberry Bag A/W 14. Nowfashion.com (2014) Available at: http://nowfashion.com/ burberry-prorsum-menswear-fall-winter-2014-london-5396?photo=281978 [Accessed 21 February 2014] Colourful flower print, LNCC. Own Photograph (2013) Vanessa Bell. Media.vam.ac.uk. Available at: http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/ collection_images/2010EL/2010EL5957_jpg_ds.jpg [Accessed 22 February 2014] Farah Vintage Shirt, Seek. Own Photograph (2014) Gloverall coat, Bread and Butter. Own photograph (2014) Berlin Hotel by Studio Aisslinger. Deezen.com (2014) Available at: http://www. dezeen.com/2014/02/17/plants-create-urban-jungle-at-berlin-hotel-by-studioaisslinger/ [Accessed 21 February 2014] Nike Visual Merchandising, BoxPark. Own Photograph (2013) Twisted Cloth Hangers, Premium. Own Photograph (2014) Chapel Street Installation by Studio Twocan. Designsponge.com. Available at: http://www.designsponge.com/2012/11/chapel-street-installation-by-studio-twocan. html [Accessed 20 February 2014] Zhang Enli, Space Painting, ICA. Own Photograph (2013) TVDB, Premium. Own Photograph (2014) Skull Visual Merchandising, LNCC. Own Photograph (2013)