September 2010
INSIDER
YOUR ESSENTIAL ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE
ISSUE 04
GRANADA
Ethnic Granada
García Lorca
Food and Drink
Linda Burridge examines cultural diversity, past and present.
Federico’s lyrical legacy.
We give you all the information to enjoy the best cuisine and discover the liveliest watering holes.
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GRANADA INSIDER
September 2010
GRANADA
INSIDER
GRANADA
INSIDER Editor: Mark Stewart Layout and Design: Peter Murray Website: Feature Rich Contributing journalists: Derek Dohren Hayley Cottington Linda Burridge Caroline Frohwein Ricano Luke O’Donovan Front Cover Photo: Alvaro “Taco” Quesada Translation: Natasha Phillips Sales: Caroline Frohwein Ricano Alvaro “Taco” Quesada Printing: Gráficas Alhambra
Contact Granada Insider For general enquiries contact us: info@granadainsider.com To advertise you can email us: sales@granadainsider.com To include your event in our listings section: agenda@granadainsider.com For comments to the editor: mark@granadainsider.com
Letter from the Editor
W
elcome back after a long hot summer break, and for some of you it may be a first time welcome to Insider magazine and to one of Spain’s most intriguing cities. We hope that you have enjoyed your holidays whatever you have been up to, whether it has been around Granada or further afield. As September arrives it feels like the world cup hangover is finally beginning to subside, but a worthwhile party was had. Just like the sense of excitement of going back to school (I never always admitted it, but secretly I loved getting that new pencil case and defacing the first page of a new copybook) September offers the chance of a new start and a fresh beginning. As Granada spent the whole of August enjoying an extended siesta, now the batteries have been recharged, the barrios are repopulating and the city is bursting back into life. In conversation recently, I found myself discussing the validity of the old adage; “never judge a book by its cover” and to what contexts can this be applied; various apparently. This month I contend that we would like you to judge this issue of the magazine by its covers. As the man once said ‘it does exactly what is says on the tin’. This side of the magazine is what we like to call the cultural side. As you will find we have tried to keep it informative, readable and hopefully you might even find it a little bit interesting. Start from the other side and a whole different beast faces you. As a student supplement should; we give you free stuff, we make an attempt at humour and most importantly we have the best of midweek nightlife. Even if you are not student or no longer get asked for id going into bars, don’t be afraid to have peek, you might even enjoy it. If there is anything that you particularly like or dislike, or even completely disagree with; pick up a pen or switch on and log in, write to us and help make this magazine enjoyable for you. Perhaps finally, we hope you will not be alarmed, as this issue we are trying something a little bit new. With your loving support and understanding you can ensure that this flip is not a flop.
Mark
Tel: +34 958 260334 www.granadainsider.com
September 2010
GRANADA INSIDER
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What’s Inside 6 A quick guide to the Alhambra. Everything you need to know in one easy read. 8 A tale of two religions, co-existence in the city.
21 Cultural Events, what’s on this autumn. 22 Classified ads and useful information.
10 Ándale, Ándale, the best of Mexico in Granada. 11 The authentic sounds of Sacromonte, Flamenco in the caves. 12 Who was Federico García Lorca? 14 Derek Dohren, A day in the life.
2 El Niño de las Pinturas A bilingual interview with Granada’s most infamous young artist.
15 Smoking in public, soon to be consigned to the ashtray of history?
6 Free, Free Free, get more and pay less.
16 Book of the Month Driving over Lemons by Chris Stewart.
7 When brand names go bad, a chuckle at commercial mistakes.
17 Restaurant Review San Nicolas.
9 Sport in Granada, this season’s preview.
20 Insider Food. The best bites to be found in Granada.
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Flip over for Student Section
10 Insider Lingo, a few words to save you time looking for your shiny new pad.
GRANADA INSIDER
September 2010
Letter to the Editor
Culture, spare time and entertainment ´Granada a Pie´ is a cultural services company fundamentally dedicated in providing daily walking tours in the city of Granada. The tour includes a visit to the most historical neighborhoods and emblematic monuments of our city. Our purpose is to share our knowledge of the rich artistic, historical and cultural heritage of Granada. We have selected our qualified staff based on their factual knowledge, streetwise experience, and charismatic manners of sharing the
stories of our interesting neighborhoods and attractions. We offer visits every day of the year, from Monday to Sunday. The tour lasts about two and a half hours and is available in both English and Spanish. We will end our tour in a “bar de tapas”, where we offer you a free drink with a tapa, which is a typical appetizer from the city of Granada. This way not only do you get to see history, art, and culture, but also the rich gastronomy of the city!
Daily walking tour through Albaycín Summer visiting hours: 10:30 a.m (From 1st April to 31st October) Winter visiting hours: 11:00 a.m (From 1st November to 31st March) Meeting point: Plaza Nuevas´s fountain
Daily walking tour through the historical center Summer visiting hours: 6:30 p.m (From 1st April to 31st October) Winter visiting hours: 17:30 p.m (From 1st November to 31st March) Meeting point: Jardines del Triunfo´s fountain Walking tours through Granada including a drink and a “tapa” for free!
Price list: - Normal ticket: 12€ - Retired people and students: 10€ - Children under 14 years old: Free * * Only for children accompanied by their parents
Special prices for groups! We promise to entertain!
To find out more information and to make a reservation, inquire at your hotel reception or email us at info@granadaapie.com or visit our website www.granadaapie.com
958563476 - 958563462 – 637082188
September 2010
GRANADA INSIDER
Sir, In response to your article regarding flights into Granada by UK airlines (Issue 03) Granada was brought to us by Ryanair 5 years ago. We flew from Liverpool on a whim – the flights were as cheap as chips. We came back several times after that, such a beautiful city. We told our friends, you can fly straight into Granada. In time we decided to settle here in Otura, only 20 minutes drive to the airport. Our friends flocked to see us. BUT no more; when you tell them they will now have to hire a car to get from Malaga; “we will perhaps come when flights are back into Granada”. I doubt if we would have bought a property in Granada if the flights were not available into the city. Caroline Frohwein Ricarno is wrong if she believes that people will avoid flying with Ryanair and would have routed via Malaga anyway. Also who living in the north of England would want to travel to Heathrow? The indirect flight is definitely more expensive for the canny traveller. She also forgets about the modern day traveller, who does not want to go to any specific destination, but would perhaps choose Granada, rather than Valencia or Barcelona if flights and hotels were cheap. The time element also has to be considered. We could catch a flight from Liverpool first thing in the morning and be in the city by 11am, almost a half day ahead of any flight and drive from Malaga, important timing if you only have a weekend! So the drive to Malaga is unlikey to put people off ? I couldn’t disagree more! Yours, Sally and Sam Hobbis Otura Granada
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a quick guide to The Alhambra
A Very Brief History:
The origins of the Alhambra are believed to date back to Roman times. However the palaces and gardens were reconstructed during the Nasrid dynasty (13th – 15th centuries). It was transformed into a self-sufficient city boasting fertile gardens, a functioning irrigation system and opulent luxury. On January 2nd 1492 the army of the catholic monarchy (Fernando and Isabel) marched into Granada and the last stronghold of Moorish Spain came to an end.
What to See There
The Alcazaba - is the oldest part of the citadel and its watchtower yields spectacular views of the Albaicín and the city below. The Palace of Carlos V - is the youngest portion of the Alhambra,
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having been built in the Renaissance (1526). The Generalife - the Garden of the Architect, is set outside the main area and was once used as the royal summertime escape. The Nasrid Palace – The jewel of the crown, considered one of the most spectacular examples of medieval Islamic architecture and extravagant attention to detail. (Specific time slots for visiting this area are given when purchasing your ticket)
How to get there:
-Bus 30-32 in Plaza Nueva, bus ticket €1.20, bring change. -Walking from Plaza Nueva, take Cuesta de Gomerez and continue straight up the hill (25min).
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How much it costs:
Price per person €12, children under 12 free but they also need a ticket. Buy online at www.servicaixa. es . Write down or print the ref. number, as you will need to show this, as well as your id/passport and the credit card you made the purchase with in order to collect your tickets At the Alhambra itself, tickets are on sale at the entrance only for the day of the visit. Be warned they sell out quickly, so get there early to avoid disappointment. Daytime opening hours: 08:00 19:00. Night visit: 22:00 - 23:30.
September 2010
For the best horse riding, stunning views and great prices you can’t beat Centro Ecuestre Los Alayos. Located in the idyllic village of Dilar (just 12km from Granada) All levels catered for, indviduals and groups.
Ph. 958 595 196 or Mob. 665 822 709 (ask for Fernando)
http://celosalayos.webcindario.com
September 2010
GRANADA INSIDER
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Culture clash or ethnic accord? What happens when a Catholic and Muslim culture live side-by-side
Perched on top of the hill, the Alhambra was well-protected from invasions.
Granada’s cathedral is only 5 minutes walk from the Albayzin.
Spain is a strong Catholic country but Arabic and Moorish civilizations have left a permanent mark on Andalucía and Granada in particular. As a tourist, it is fascinating to explore the impact of these cultures in terms of language, cuisine and architecture but what affect does it have on the people of Granada and the spirit of the city?
Here GI gives you the basics but also takes a closer look behind the tourist facade and what it means to live in and share a city that has such a varied and interesting past.
cultures can be hard to achieve and for some, they will never see Spain as home. It is also easy to see the differences when looking at basic characteristics of each culture, such as food and drink.
Officially Granada has 297,000 residents but as a university town this number swells accordingly in time with the academic year and doesn’t include many of the temporary residents that are outside the official statistics. It is hard to get a firm figure on this but from a straw poll of the Albayzín, many are here for only a number of years and then intend to return home to northern Africa. When asked why they wish to hope to return to their country of birth, the overwhelming reason is family. “It’s where I belong and I need to take care of my parents,” one young 26-year-old Muslim explained. “I am here now and I love it. The way of life is good and I have a good job, but it is not forever.” This response, although positive and appreciative of life here, does highlight how integration between the two
Halal and jamón
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Serrano ham is part of the national pride of Spain. When travelling Spaniards are asked what they miss most when abroad, ham more often than not gets a mention. And when chatting to local Muslims this is one area of integration that is rarely approached. “No I do not eat jamón but I’ve had some funny experiences where I have accidently eaten it.” Another explains to me that it’s like his body rejects it and if he accidently eats some, he can tell. He jokingly says that perhaps he has special skills and can get a job working in customs or as some sort of jamón detective!
always stayed away from hard spirits. And it doesn’t take long for tourists to see that the alcohol-dry teterias fulfil the same social function as a bar or pub. It is very social to sit, ‘take tea’ as many referred to it as and a hookah pipe (or as it’s called in Egypt, sheesha pipe). Rightly or wrongly, drinking among Muslims is sometimes viewed as a temporary indulgence like smoking. More than once locals explained that they will “clean up” their lives in the future and will once again be a “good Muslim”. This is another stark contrast to Spanish culture where drinking and smoking are strongly linked and are a key part of any celebration or gathering.
Celebration but not for all
Alcohol is another cultural battle ground but one that appears to have softer boarders. Most Muslims interviewed did drink small amounts but
On a slightly more serious note and one that originates from the past, each year on the 2nd January, Granada celebrates the Fiesta de la Toma (Festival of the Capture). This festival re-enacts to some extent the day in 1492 when the Catholic Monarchs, Isabel and Fernando, came to Granada and the last post of the Moorish empire surrendered.
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September 2010
Infusions Vs Cereveza
Albayzin: Narrow streets and intricate layouts are typical of an Arabic medina.
The royal flag is raised at the town hall and the day includes a procession. Granadinos also ring the bell at the Alhambra as it would have back in 1492. It is not unusual that this day is commemorated as similar events would be in other countries but last year the structure of the celebrations where debated at the council. Some described the celebration as a “hangover from the past” and felt it was inappropriate to reenact a day that signified a period a persecution of Spain’s Jews and Muslims.
Injustice and Reality
When asking local Muslims what they think of the celebrations, opinions vary from strident injustice to a response that is firmly grounded in reality. “There are many festivals here,
Granada was once the crown jewel in the Moorish empire of Al-Andalus. This culture has infused all parts of Spanish life. Here’s what to look out for: The Albayzín is the ancient Moorish quarter of the city. The Plaza de San Nicolas is well worth the walk for its stunning view.
many that are important, many to do with religion and many I don’t celebrate but this is a Catholic country. As a shop-owner, tourism is the most important thing and I am aware that the festivals attract tourists. That is what I want. ” This is just one individual comment and although not representative, is one that you could expect from a minority group. And this is precisely what Muslims are. It is estimated there are between 1 – 1.5 million living in Spain, a country of some 46 million in total.. While their ancestors’ impact on history and culture of Spain is evident, like any ethnic group, contemporary Muslims have a proportionate amount of power or ‘say’ that is aligned to their minority status. This characteristic is
one that can be found in any country that has suffered war or been invaded, but the positive thing is how the country has benefited, like Spain, from the cultural richness that diversity brings. There are also other cultures that make Granada such a vibrant city. The old Jewish (Realejo) and Gypsy (Sacromonte) quarters contribute to the diversity and where would we be without the thousands of university students from around the world that give the city colour? This is why it is so important to remember and enjoy the differences of Granada and to cherish the uniqueness and strength that come from this diversity.
The Teterias in the Albayzín serve amazing fragrant teas and lovely speciality dishes. Alhambra – OK if you’re in Granada and haven’t heard of this, you must have been living under a rock. Are you familiar with the internet? Did you know mobile phones are now rather popular too?
Food – southern Spain’s food has always been influenced by northern Africa and they introduced lots of produce to the peninsula. As they introduced rice, you could argue that eating paella is a necessary history lesson for you. Dig in!
Arabic baths – Cleanliness is next to godliness and it’s a great way to spend a lazy afternoon.
September 2010
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Puerta Elvira has the tell-tale Architecture – Look out for the horseshoe arch and ornate decoration. horseshoe arch and was once the main gate to the old city.
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Cantina Mexicana Chile Grande Located just off the picturesque Carrera del Genil is one of Granada’s most popular and vibrant Mexican restaurants, La Cantina Mexican Chile Grande. This charming and colourful family-run restaurant prides itself on its combination of quality and value for money. From Monday to Friday a menu of the day is available for a mere €7. Yes, you read that correctly! And that includes starter, main course, desert, and a drink. The day menu is available from 12.00 to 16.00 and from 20.00 to 21.00 but of course the al la carte menu is available all day up to 24.00 and the restaurant is open 7 days a week. Signature dishes include molcajete which is a delicious combination of beef, chicken, chorizo, and cheese. Fish lovers will enjoy the pescado azteca which is fillet of fish served with avocado tiritas and cream of tomato sauce. All dishes are prepared using fresh and locally sourced produce. Even the desert menu has its specialities that includes fried ice cream and death by chocolate! Thursday evenings in La Cantina Mexican Chile Grande are something of an institution in the city with margaritas available for only €1 which makes the restaurant popular with the younger generations, and help gives it its vibrant atmosphere. If you are planning a celebration or party the restaurant is perfect as the downstairs can be reserved exclusively for you and your guests, and it can accommodate groups up to 100 people. So whether you are a devout fan or have never tried the world of botanas, tentempies, fajitas, nachos, or burritos, La Cantina Mexican Chile Grande will certainly not disappoint you.
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GRANADA INSIDER
September 2010
Cuevas Los Tarantos Amazing night of Flamenco in one of Sacromonte’s most famous caves.
Los Tarantos was founded by Don José Martín Quesada and Doña Concepción May Maya in 1972. Taranto means a stick in Flemish, but also signifies a dance, a song or a the sound of a guitar… it can in truth imply all of the above, thus the reason the founders decided on no better name than “Los Tarantos” Soon confirmed as an important zambra, thanks to the quality of their show, their caves have become a landmark in the realm of Flamenco in Granada. In the early days local audiences were enthralled by the likes of Luis Heredia “The Polish”, Íllora Morenito or the singer Chonchi Heredia, who sang to inspire the dance of Manolillo Liñán or Louis Louis. Audiences at the caves have been graced by other legends of Flamenco, such as the singers Vitorino de Pinos, Guzmán Albea or July Terremoto, esteemed dancers; La Porrona, La Coneja or El Gabriel and the Guitarists Antonio El Chispita and Paquito Amaya.
History of Los Tarantos
Zambra of Manolo Amaya. Founders of the 1st The Sacromonte Zambra Within the caves, you will have the opportunity to experience a truly Gipsy Zambra, complete with all of its pureness and inimitable passion. It is the chance to discover some of the most traditional singing and dancing and to feel the heartbeat of the city. Each song and dance is full of ritual and symbolism, all within the unforgettable setting of the “Sacromonte Caves” As part of this wonderful experience they will guide you through the streets of the Albaycin, the oldest part of the city (protected as a world heritage site
Contacto:
There are two performances nightly. First show Pick up at your hotel according to its location. Show starts at 21:30 Completion at 22: 45 approx. Return to the hotel. Second show Pick up at your hotel according to its location.
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by UNESCO). They afford chance to discover such a charming neighbourhood including the fabulous balconies and the richly decorated facades adorned by traditional pottery. Passing through the San Nicolas viewing spot, with the stunning views of the Alhambra lit up at night. Join them for an unforgettable night of Andalucian culture and flamenco. The program includes: Transport + Walk to the Albaycin + Flamenco Show and drink (Wine, Sangria or soft Drinks and water).
Show starts at 23:00 Completion at 00:15 approx. Return to the hotel.
Grupo Cuevas Los Tarantos Camino del Sacromonte, 9 – 18010 Granada.
TRANSPORT + WALK OF THE ALBAYCIN + SHOWS + CONSUMPTION
Tel: 958-224-525 / 958-222-492 Mob: 627-921-532 / 687-975-608
Special prices for students, groups and travel agencies.
GRANADA INSIDER
Cuevaslostarantos@hotmail.com www.cuevaslostarantos.com
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The Pride of Granada
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Federico García Lorca By Hayley Cottington
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espite being forced into comparative obscurity by the great literary artists of the Spanish Golden Age, of Góngora, Lope de Vega, Quevedo, and, of course, Cervantes, Federico García Lorca is undoubtedly one of Spain’s greatest dramatists and poets. Born in Fuente Vaqueros on the 5th of June 1898, to a farmer and former school-teacher, Federico García Lorca’s childhood was shaped by the influences of his mother and the family’s servants which sparked an interest in the culture of rural Andalucía that would last into his adulthood and feature prominently in his later works. Lorca moved to Granada with his family at the age of 11, and the vibrant, multi-cultural city would later bring Lorca into contact with the great writers and artists of the age; H.G. Wells, Rudyard Kipling, the guitarist Angel Barrios and the critic Jose Fernandez Montesinos. At 16, Lorca began his studies at the University of Granada, published his first book four years later, and the following year, in 1919, left Granada for a ten year stay in Madrid, followed by two years of travel in the United States and Cuba, before he finally returned to Spain in the autumn of 1930. Each of the successive stages of Lorca’s travels reflect a different aspect of his work; whilst in Madrid, his work displays frustration over his homosexuality, particularly in the 1921 Book of Poems, and a combination of the traditional dramatic subjects presented through farce and tragedy. Whilst Lorca was in New York, however, there is a clear change; his plays When Five Years Pass and The Public are surrealist, although they were not published until after his return to Spain, and the poem Poet in New York is dark, clearly showing Lorca’s feelings of isolation and loneliness and the social injustice inherent in New York. On his return to Spain, Lorca’s writing changed yet again, this time the result of the creation of a republican government in 1931, under which
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artistic freedom abounded. Federico García Lorca’s life was tragically short; at just 38 years old, he was shot near the villages of Alfacar and Viznar in August 1936 by the Assault Guard and paramilitary ‘Black Squad’, yet his contribution to Spanish literature was incredible. Comparatively little is known about Lorca’s personal life, though there is much speculation, particularly over whether or not Lorca was homosexual. The general consensus is that Lorca was indeed homosexual, although the book Federico and his World, by Francisco García Lorca, Federico’s brother, does not mention Lorca’s homosexuality, whilst some of Lorca’s friends, such as Pepín Bello, have denied claims that Lorca was homosexual.
Lorca’s most famous play, Bodas de Sangre or Blood Wedding, as it is translated in English, is based on a true Andalucian story from the village of Nijar. In 1928 the sister and brotherin-law of Francisca Cañadas Morales attempted to murder her, and succeeded in murdering Francisco Montes Cañadas, with whom she had eloped, having fled an arranged marriage to a farmhand, Casimiro Pérez Morales. Like the Bride and Leonardo in Blood Wedding, they are ambushed on the road, although in the play it is more the result of slighted honour on the part of the Bridegroom. Blood Wedding was first performed in March 1933, just three years before Lorca’s death, but was read to his friends in September of the previous
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Selected extracts
Horsey’s hooves are red with blood. Horsey’s mane is frozen. Deep inside his staring eyes A silver dagger broken. Down they went to the river bank, Down to the stream they rode. There his blood ran strong and fast, Faster than the water could. (Tr. Gwynne Edwards)
SUEGRA: Las patas heridas, las crines heladas, dentro de los ojos un puñal de plata. Bajaban al río. ¡Ay, cómo bajaban! La sangre corría más fuerte que el agua. (from Bodas de Sangre)
Round swan on the river, Eye of the cathedrals, False dawn amongst the leaves Am I; they shall not escape! Who is hiding? Who is sobbing In the thick brush of the valley? The moon places a knife Abandoned in the sky, That is a leaden ambush And longs to be the pain of blood. (Tr. Gwynne Edwards)
Verde que te quiero verde. Verde viento. Verdes ramas. El barco sobre la mar y el caballo en la montaña. Con la sombra en la cintura ella sueña en su baranda, verde carne, pelo verde, con ojos de fría plata. Verde que te quiero verde Bajo la luna gitana, las cosas la están mirando y ella no puede mirarlas. (from Romance Sonámbulo)
Green, how I want you green. Green wind. Green branches. The ship out on the sea and the horse on the mountain. With the shade around her waist she dreams on her balcony, green flesh, her hair green, with eyes of cold silver. Green, how I want you green… Under the gypsy moon, all things are watching her and she cannot see them. (Tr. William Logan)
year. Though it was translated into English and French and performed in both North and South America, thus founding Lorca’s international reputation, it was not again performed in Spain for almost thirty years. Despite the darker elements of human nature that the play portrays, Blood Wedding is perhaps Lorca’s most poetic play, lyrical and full of symbolism, on a level comparable with the Greek tragedies , the Spanish classic authors, like Lope de Vega, and, of course, Shakespeare. Unsurprisingly, Lorca’s legacy has been long-lasting, not least in his visible presence around the city of Granada; the Granada-Jaen airport is the Federico Garcia Lorca airport, one of the largest city parks is named after him, in which there is a museum dedicated to him, and various lecture halls in the University of Granada are also named for him. Outside of Granada, he has a statue in Madrid, and the Lorca Foundation sponsors the production of his works, as well as the construction of the Lorca Centre in Madrid. Lorca’s works have been translated into numerous languages, and continued to be performed world-wide. Furthermore, artists from Russia to
North America and from Vietnam to Mexico have taken Lorca as inspiration for their own creations; the Spanish poet Antonio Machado wrote El Crimen Fue en Granada about Lorca’s death, Leonard Cohen’s song Take this Waltz, a translation of Lorca’s poem Pequeño vals vienés, reached number one in Spain in 1986, whilst films and plays have also been based on Lorca’s life and death. After Lorca’s murder his body was never recovered, and his final resting place remains unknown to this day. However, in recent years excavations have begun to exhume the bodies of the men executed with Lorca, at the request of their families. Despite the Lorca family’s long-standing opposition to the poet’s exhumation, as recently as two years ago they gave their consent and last year gave their permission for family DNA to be used in identifying Lorca’s remains. Next year will see the seventy-fifth anniversary of Lorca’s death, but regardless of whether or not his remains are ever found – conspiracy theorists have postulated that the family made a deal with the Francoists to secretly recover and inter his body privately, Federico García Lorca’s legacy will doubtless continue for years to come.
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LUNA: Cisne redondo en el río ojo de las catedrales, alba fingida en las hojas soy; ¡no podrán escaparse! ¿Quién se oculta? ¿Quién solloza por la maleza del valle? La luna deja un cuchillo en el aire, que siendo acecho de plomo quiere ser dolor de sangre. (from Bodas de Sangre)
In 1986 Lorca’s natal home in Fuente Vaqueros (just15km from Granada) was restored and opened to the public. It is still run as a museum by the Patronato Garcia Lorca with a permanent collection as well as many activities organised throughout the year. For more information check out www.patronatogarcialorca.org
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Art Imitating Art, Life at the Mirador
Derek Dohren
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n the face of it setting up my wares in the Albaicin at the mirador San Nicolas seems a no brainer. The place ticks enough boxes for the would-be street vendor – floor space, stunning views, and of course a location naturally frequented by tourists, many of whom are highly sentimental and drunk on romance. What more can one hope for? Alas, it seems one can have too much of a good thing. There is a problem here and it’s this: you’re going toe to toe with the real thing, and in the real thing’s back yard. I mean, who’s going to buy your painting of the Alhambra when they can stand bedazzled by the beast itself, seductively set as it is against the backdrop of the Sierra Nevada, and shimmering effortlessly in an ever shifting play of light? I’ve tried to tackle the ‘Alhambra Problem’ as I call it by going increasingly abstract. There’s little point in adding to the millions of competent reproductions already out there. Nevertheless I admit I often feel it’s probably better to steer clear of the subject altogether. It’s not just paintings of the Alhambra that pale into insignificance here though, nor just paintings
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in general. I’ve found that the mirador seems not to be a great place to sell anything despite the continued efforts of local vendors who assiduously lay out various trinkets and baubles. You can’t really grab anyone’s undivided attention as there’s so much ‘real stuff ’ for people to take in (and let’s be honest, the plaza itself is worth a visit on its own merits). But I love it here. There’s a certain life enhancing vibe that always makes me feel better for having visited. Ok, for all its magnificence and stupendous history dare I venture the view; that the Alhambra these days, is little more than a rather large piece of costume jewellery, one that is perhaps prostituted a little too cynically by the marketing bods? At best it’s an impossibly ornate window pane that allows just a tantalising glimpse of times past. But all said and done this area of town is real enough. It’s still alive, and still dynamic and continues to write its own history. One can’t fail to be wooed by the whitened walls and narrow cobbled streets of the Albaicin and the Sacromonte and by the people who live here cheek by jowl. What stories are locked up in these alleyways? Each time I visit I find a new twist of the
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road, a corner of a plaza I hadn’t noticed before and I wonder what went on here. So it doesn’t bother me too much to be gathering my things with nothing sold. It’s a pleasure just being part of the whole experience. I glance around at my fellow vendors and wonder if they feel the same way. One thing’s for sure, there are plenty of smiles in evidence whatever the day’s commercial shortcomings. In little over two hours I didn’t see anyone sell anything here today. No one seems the least concerned. With resignation I see one of my paintings has fallen victim to someone’s careless size 9 boots. Again. Two days in the making and two seconds in the trampling. Such is life. I can fix it up, no problem and I’ll be back again. Maybe I’ll bring along a couple of new Alhambra abstracts I’ve had an idea for. Then again, there’s probably no point. Derek Dohren is available for commissioned work and offers a two day beginners painting class in Granada.
Visit his web site at www.derekdohren.com
September 2010
Time to clear the air: Changes ahead for smokers Spain currently has one of the highest percentages of smoking in Western Europe. Critics attribute this to cheap tobacco and relaxed regulations but this is marked for change in early 2011 when harsher restrictions will prohibit smoking in public. What is the current situation Since January 1 2006, legislation has restricted smoking in public places. Previous to this there was no guidance and smoking was permitted in most public areas. One local Granadino reflects, “when I was at university, we all smoked in class and you’d often find someone smoking on the bus or in a shop or bank.” At present bars and restaurants smaller than 100m² have the choice whether they are smoking or nonsmoking establishments and must display a sign indicating the status. For larger venues, they are required to have a separate area for both. The future Earlier this year the Minister for Health, Trinidad Jiménez, announced the intention that from the 1 January 2011, smoking in public places, including bars and restaurants will be prohibited similar to other European countries and at present the finer details of this legislation are being discussed.
Bar owner Totes from Totes y Amigos, has one of the few non-smoking bars in Granada and is realistic of the changes ahead. “I know it will be challenging but if the Irish, French and Italians can adjust, so can bars here. I was in Italy during winter and saw diners go outside for cigarettes – proof that people will adapt. I will always allow smoking on my terrace but it would be great if we were allowed to construct some shelter or marquees for winter.” Matt, co -owner of Poë a bar in central Granada, agrees these changes are inevitable but is prepared for the affect on business. “In other EU countries, there has been a 10 – 15% drop in sales. As a smoker myself, I don’t necessarily support it but accept it is a reality.” Tough love It is clear that in countries where smoking regulation is more stringent, there are fewer smokers and less smoking-relating illnesses but there is an argument that these laws will hinder an already struggling industry. The economic crisis has affected the hospitality and hotel trade but the current government has discussed introducing these measures for some time. Many have been expecting this announcement but are also curious as to how it will be established and monitored as local areas and independent communities will have some freedom regarding its introduction.
From the 1 January 2011, smoking in public enclosed places will be prohibited similar to other European countries
Matt
Grace & Lawrence, 57 & 62, Australia “It seems like everyone smokes here and it’s disgusting. I think Spain will be better when it has tougher smoking laws – for tourists and locals.”
Word on the street Antonio, 42, Granada “As as ex-smoker, I prefer nonsmoking bars but will persevere with friends if they must smoke but I can only last two or three hours before I need to go home.” Charlie, 31, England “I enjoy smoking and will only go to smoking bars. I think these changes will reduce the amount I smoke but I will always go outside to have a fag when I am out.”
September 2010
Totes
Let us know what you think about the proposed new smoking laws, Good or Bad? Contact us at
info@granadainsider.com
GRANADA INSIDER
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Book of the Month
Driving Over Lemons by Chris Stewart
Chris Stewart is, among many other things, an eternal optimist, an itinerant sheep shearer and, believe it or not, the original Genesis drummer.
“Driving Over Lemons”, by Chris Stewart is published by Sort Of Books and costs 11.25 euros. It’s available at Metro International Bookshop, c/Gracia, 31. Tel 958 261565. metrolibros@terra.es
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Having travelled the world, learnt to sail, to fly and to enjoy life to the full, he takes one look at the Alpujarras, in the province of Granada, and decides that’s where he wants to be. He moves with his wife Ana to a mountain farm near Órgiva and misadventures gleefully unfold as Chris comes to terms with the terrain, the lifestyle and, of course, the locals, who possess all the rugged, homespun charm you’d expect. He discovers that the owner has no intention of leaving and meets their neighbours, an engaging mix of peasant farmers and shepherds, New Age travellers and ex-pats. He soon discovers all the hidden foibles of his bargain purchase, and spends the following year, which is rendered here in detail,
installing the little luxuries of life like, say, water. Then their daughter Chloe is born, linking them irrevocably to their new life. The hero of the piece, though, is the farm itself - a patch of mountain studded with olive, almond and lemon groves, sited on the wrong side of a river, with no access road or electricity However, just when you’re worrying that all this might degenerate into a rose-tinted “Englishman finds nature” idyll, Chris’s wife enters the fray. Nonsense-free, straight-talking and relentlessly unsentimental, Ana should be a required resource for all travel writers. Ana gets bored with the fake machismo of pig-killing, Ana sees through the selfless “help” of the natives, Ana calls a peasant a peasant. With her on board, Stewart has the perfect counterbalance to his declared optimism, and Driving Over Lemons becomes a loving but clear-sighted encomium, economically and wittily written, to a wonderful part of the world.
GRANADA INSIDER
September 2010
Restaurant Review: Restaurante San Nicolas, Granada’s best kept secret By Caroline Frohwein Ricano
On arriving in Granada several years ago, I voraciously perused the guide books in search of enticing eateries, being of the persuasion that an essential aspect in experiencing the vibe a new country and culture offers is to sample its eating and drinking establishments. Unfortunately the best the aforementioned books were able to come up with was, to quote: “Granada is not known for being the culinary capital of Spain”, followed by a list of a few mediocre restaurants. Sadly, in the last 6 years, it has been difficult to dispute this. However, here at Granada Insider, we are committed to seeking out the exceptions to this rule and Restaurante San Nicolas is truly exceptional. It has to be one of Granada hidden gems and is certainly the finest restaurant, in every sense of the word that I have eaten in, in the Province of Granada. This typical 19th century style, Albayzin townhouse, located just 20 metres off the western side of Plaza San Nicolas, was originally a Carmen. The restaurant and patio garden are deceptively large, yet both inside and out there is a sense of intimacy and romance, with stunning views of the Alhambra. At the beginning of this year it was purchased and lovingly refurbished, by the Guisarro Sanchez family, who also own the renowned La Gloria restaurant in Churriana. My companion and I decided to visit the restaurant for an evening meal. The entrance hall and bar with its 1920’s
style décor and beautiful sweeping staircase, was impressive to say the least, a most relaxing spot to await our table with a drink and delicious tapa, the tone perfectly set with some discreet jazz. David, the excellent and informative head waiter, led us to our dining table on the patio, where he took our order but also advised us on which wines to drink with each course. The wine was so perfectly married to the food; I would highly recommend asking advice, rather than simply ordering wine from the menu. The cuisine is Spanish and international but essentially the culinary creation of the young head chef, Antonio Martin Martin, who certainly deserves to be better known than he is. Every restaurant has their piece de resistance, here; it has to be the Foie “mid-cult”. A foie gras flown in raw from Paris but turned into the most exquisite, melt in your mouth dish, served with fig compote and extra fine pistachio toast. This was accompanied by a light, crisp, fruity white, 2009 Calvente. My companion ordered a scallop and prawn salad, with grated al dente vegetables in a wild red berry vinaigrette, on a delicious truffle base served within a fine crepe. Our main courses were; duck breast, served with champagne soaked pears, grape pulp and apple puree and Rabo del Toro (oxtail stew), served in a fine crepe with little roast potato balls
September 2010
GRANADA INSIDER
and Padron green peppers. Our local wine with this was the bronze winner in the 2008 National French Wine Festival, a blackcurrant scented, light yet paradoxically rich in flavour, red, Fontedei 2008. Our ecstatic taste buds could barely do justice to the delicious desserts that followed; Espuma de Pistachio, a glass of semi frozen crushed fresh red fruits, with a light, fluffy pistachio mousse and cocoa balls and Cremoso de Queso Dulce, comprising fruits of the forest, soft chocolate sponge, walnuts covered with a sweet, warm, goat’s cheese sauce. The desserts were served with a delicious, sweet, Valencian, Reymos, dessert wine. Restaurante San Nicolas is not a restaurant to visit if you are on a budget. However if you are looking for somewhere to go for a special romantic meal, a group event or you are on holiday and you choose to eat at only one restaurant in Granada, this is the one. Appetizers range from €2.70 - 6.80. Starters & Salads range from €3.50 - 24.50. Main courses from €16.50 24.00. Wines start at €18.00 and do go up to €300.00 a bottle but are also served by the glass. Opening hours: 12.00 – 12.00 Tuesday – Saturday 12.00 – 16.00 Sundays. For Reservations: 958 272842
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GRANADA
INSIDER
Map of Granada
Insider HQ Insider Offices Totes y Amigos Bar, Cafe, Restaurant Kasbah Traditional Tétería Chantarela Gastro Tavern Taberna Macande From the classic to the international! Paddy’s Bar Metro Bookshop
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Babel World Fusion Casa Lopez Correa Restaurant & Cocktail Lounge El Sitio Great Tapas, Raciones and More Giardinos The Alhambra Teatro Alhambra
Sushi Sushi Bar Wakame San Nicolas Restaurante San Nicolas Granada 10 Ladies Night Every Wednesday Los Tarantos Flamenco Bar & Restaurant Velez Casas Estate Agents and Renovations
Chile Grande Mexican bar and restaurant
GRANADA INSIDER
September 2010
SUSHI BAR WAKAME
Open from 12:30 - 16:30 and 20:00 - close
Tel: 651 486 512 Calle Martinez Campos 8, 18005 Granada.
We also offer courses in sushi preparation, full details can be found at the bar.
Ambienza The new Cafe in Lanjaron The type of place that manages to be stylish and cosy where you could sit all day on comfy sofas with wifi available and without the usual fluorescent lights and cigarette butts littering the floor! Whether people want illy, Chillout, or Ambienza it is all here. You can come for breakfast, lunch or dinner. We serve food all day, to eat-in or take-away with a selection of cakes and fresh breads. From long lunches to a quick milkshake or a sundowner that leads to an evening of sipping cocktails in the shade on our enviable mist cooled terrace (think outdoor air-conditioning). Lanjaron Just 35km from Granada, this idyllic town is perfect for a day trip to enjoy the fresh mountain air. It lies in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada and acts as a gateway to the Alpujarra region. (Busses leave from the main bus terminal in Granada and take approx 1hour)
Ambienza is located on Calle Se帽or de la Expiraci贸n Tel: 958 771 381 or email: info@ambienza.es
September 2010
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Eating Out
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CASA LOPEZ CORREA
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Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge, Est.1913
Totes: May Interview An Englishwoman running a bar in Granada – a little bit loca? .... “It was a case of love at first sight for Totes, the buzz of the city and being able to walk everywhere persuaded her that Granada was the perfect place to settle......... Most importantly go for it, life is too short for regrets...... She adores the constant buzz of the city and the fact that there is always something going on here.” For full interview check out www.granadainsider.com/magazine
Italian & English Cuisine / Extensive range of vegetarian dishes Menu del Dia / Tapas & Raciones / Cocktail Menu Range of English Ales & Ciders / “Fatto con Amore”
Opening Hours
Chantarela: Review May 2010 “Once you have stepped inside it becomes immediately evident that you have arrived at somewhere special..... While the bar prides itself on the cool beer and casual atmosphere, it is without a doubt the food that makes this place unique........ the exquisite fresh salmon salad or the truly delectable bacalao mousse topped with caramelised peppers.” For complete review www.granadainsider.com/food
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Casa Lopez Correa: Review June 2010 “The cuisine is primarily Italian and English. Sue, an excellent chef who has worked in some of London’s top restaurants.... sources all her fresh produce; meat fish, eggs, fruit and vegetables, locally in Realejo and where possible she purchases organic.” For complete review www.granadainsider.com/food
GRANADA INSIDER
Monday - Friday: 13.00 -17.00 & 20.00 - 01.00 Saturday: 20.00 - 02.00 Intercambio Night - Thursdays 20.00 onwards Jam Session - Fridays 22.00 onwards
C/ de los Molinos 5, Realejo, Granada 18009 Tel: 958 22 37 75
email: benedictsue@yahoo.co.uk Facebook: Casa Lopez Correa
September 2010
Cultural Highlights for for September 2010 9th – 11th 29th FESTIVAL ZAIDIN ROCK: Where: Campus de la Salúd, Zaidin Price: Free Thursday - Promorock Friday - XXX Festival Rock Saturday - Noche Mestiza
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Classical Music Choir “EL MISTERIO DE LAS VOCES BÚLGARAS” Where:: Teatro Municipal “Isabel la Católica” When: 20:30
10th -19th EXPOSICIÓN FOTOGRÁFICA EN EL MADOC “BOINAS VERDES EN ACCIÓN” Photography exhibition “Boinas Verdes en Accion”@ the Madoc
Thurs 30th The reopening of The Auditorio Manuel de Falla Very special concert: Featuring the Granada City Orchestra, & special guest Estrella Morente Where: Auditorio” Manuel de Falla”
Sat 11th Concert: CHAYANNE Where: Palacio Municipal de los Deportes Time: 21:00
Classical Music Ciclo La Guitarra en Otoño III: Concert Guitarra flamenca Special performance by: “Celia Morales” Time: 21:00 Where: Casa de los Tiros
Wed 15th Classical Music Concert “SEIS CIUDADES SEIS VOCES” – Six cities, six voices. Where:: Teatro Municipal “Isabel la Católica” Time: 20:00
29th – Oct 3rd Spectacular: Cirque du Soleil Where: Palacio de los Deportes de Granada. Wed &Thurs 21:30 Fri-Sun 17:30 & 21:30. Tickets €30/65
Thur 16th Ciclo La Guitarra en Otoño III: Concert: Classical Guitar Special performance by: “Julia Malischnig” Where: Museo Casa de los Tiros Time: 21:00 Fri 17th & Sat 18th Concert: Miguel Rios “BYE BYE RIOS” Where: Palacio Municipal de los Deportes Time: 21:30 Wed 22nd “CANTÁNDOLE A GRANÁ” Artists association of Alfacar Where:: Teatro Municipal “Isabel la Católica” Time: 20:30 Thurs 23rd Ciclo La Guitarra en Otoño III: Concert: Classical Guitar Special performance by: “Joana Reche” When 21:00 Where: Museo Casa de los Tiros
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GRANADA INSIDER
October Thursday, 7th Classical Music Ciclo La Guitarra en Otoño III: Conferencia “La situación de la guitarra en el flamenco” Time 20:00 Where: Casa de los Tiros
Thursday, 14th Ciclo La Guitarra en Otoño III: Concert: Flamenco Guitar Special performance by: “Jorge Gómez y Pedro Barragán” When: 21:00 Where: Casa de los Tiros Thurs 14th Concert: Andrew Bird in the Teatro Caja Granada 21:30
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Classifieds //
The Best Property Value and Home Improvements in Granada Apartments and houses to rent from just €450 Apartments for sale starting at €80.000 Be sure to consult our web site at
www.velezcasas.es or for renovations www.reformas-granada.es (specialising in fine wood carpentry, built in wardrobes, kitchens etc.)
We pride ourselves on our customer care and we aim to cater to you needs, so give us a call on: 958 224 036 (Spanish) / 650 198 757 (English) Or pop in to have a chat:
Paseo de la Bomba, 16. Granada Useful Information
Selling Something – Reach Granada´s English speaking Population, Call us on 958260334 or email info@granadainsider. com or check us out online at www.granadainsider.com Honorary British Consulate in Granada: Daily opening hours: 958 283 154, or in emergencies 669 895 053. Embassy website is: www. ukinspain.com Art lesson for beginners! Leave Granada with your own original artwork. Two classes, conducted in English, all materials provided, painting in acrylics plus free drink and tapa. Contact Derek for details on 673529800 or via email derekdohren@googlemail.com Jobs Granada Insider, we are currently looking for event organisers, promotion staff, salespeople and writers. English a must, Spanish a bonus. Send your CV and the type of work you are interested in to info@granadainsider.com Accomodation: Casa Ángela, We offer the best value accommodation in the centre of Granada. Short and Long Term rates available. Friendly international atmosphere. Contact Pepe on 622422473 FOR SALE Good size FREEESTANDING OVEN, surplus to requirements due to house move, was 79€ new, selling for just 30€. Nearly new fruit & vegetable JUICER, was 39€ new, selling for 19€. Call 650 198 757
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Bus station Estacion De Autobuses Estaciones De Autobuses Ctra. Jaén, S/N 18014 Granada For more information go to www.alsa.es Train Estacion De Granada Estacion De Trenes Av. Andaluces, S/N 18014 Granada For more information go to www.renfe.es National Police: 091 Emergency: 112 Firemen: 080 ( Granada metropolitan area) Police Office: Comisaría de Policía de Granada Centro Calle Campos 3, 18009, Granada (Granada) Tel : 958 808 502 Tourist Office Plaza de Mariana Pineda 10 bajo, tel. 958247146, www.turismodegranada.org Swimming pool Campus universitario de fuentenueva, Avenida Severo Ochoa S/N (paseo universitario) Monday - Friday 8am-10pm, last entrance 9pm Saturday 9am-6:30 pm, last entrance 5:30 pm Prices : students €3 ; non students €4 Tennis courts Campus Universitario Fuentenueva, Avenida Severo Ochoa, S/N (paseo universitario) Tennis Courts, reservation by the hour in the sports office, Tel: 958 240 956 – 243 144. Opening hours : 9am – 2pm ; 3 pm – 8 pm, except holidays Price : €4.50 for students ; €5 for non students All other sports http://www.ugr.es/~sdugr/
GRANADA INSIDER
Removals Commercial & Domestic Cleaning
Airport Pick Up/Drop Off Painting, Decorating & Refurbishment
Car Valeting
A2 Z
SERVICES
Property Management & Maintenance
Miles McCarthy 692 191 768
Drain/Pipe Unblocking
a2z.servicios@yahoo.com
September 2010
Classifieds // Looking to sell a bike, rent your apartment, offering private language classes or anything else that you might be bought, sold or rented. Get your details into Insider classfieds. Simply send in the details that you would like advertised to info@granadainsider.com
CLASES DE ESPAÑOL Fully qualified native speaking teacher with many years of experience. One to one classes or small groups, helping you to improve your fluency, grammar, pronunciation and confidence"
Contact Graciela by phone on 958131667 / 660515723 or by email grapeiru@hotmail.com
MARIACHI
SHORT TERM APARTMENT RENTAL Acera del Darro, opp Hotel Dauro. Sleeps up to 5 people Quiet, comfortable and convenient! Fr. €40 per night, depending on season. Monthly rates available. Weekend country retreat too!
Call Maria on 958 788268/651 041666 aranlecrin@yahoo.es
MAYORALES
Música Mexicana por Mexicanos
Mexican Music by Mexicans!
El mariachi LOS MAYORALES es un grupo que le ofrece el auténtico sonido de la música mexicana. Ese “toque especial” y distintivo que es el resultado de nacer y crecer en el rumor del amplio abanico de sonidos y sensaciones del ambiente y la música en México. El auténtico del sonido de México aunado a una imagen fiel y cuidada en la indumentaria tradicional del mariachi.
Los Mayorales Mariachis are a unique group based in Granada that offer an authentic sound of Mexican music. Their “special touch” and distinctive style derive from their birth and upbringing to the ever present hum of an expansive range of sounds and sensations of typical Mexican music and ambience. They deliver the authentic sound of Mexico combined with a genuine image and atmosphere including the dress attire of the traditional Mariachi.
Fieles a nuestro lema: “Música Mexicana por Mexicanos Nos desplazamos de Granada a España y todo el mundo.
For more information about who we are and to hear our music:
Los detalles de contacto:
Teléfonos de Contacto: 600224102 / 656273775
info@mariachilosmayorales.com September 2010
Faithful to the motto : Mexican music by Mexicans Based in Granada, entertaining around Spain and the rest of the world.
Tel: 600224102 / 656273775
www.mariachilosmayorales.com
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Food and Drink on Calle Elvira Advertise your bar/restaurant in the Insider Food.
Contact sales@granadainsider.com
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GRANADA INSIDER
September 2010
Wanted Erasmus Ambassadors
Are you an outgoing, fun loving and sociable person? Have you recently arrived in Granada and are looking to meet new people, discover new places and get the most from your experience In Granada. We are looking for Erasmus/ foreign students to work with Granada Insider. What will you be doing? You will spend a few hours a week meeting new people, promoting events, exploring Granada, and most importantly having fun. This is the ideal opportunity to discover the best of student life in Granada.
If this sounds like something you would be interested in simply send us your CV and/or a little bit about yourself to info@granadainsider.com Please make sure to include your name, age and nationality.
GRANADA
INSIDER
Insider Lingo your guide to finding a place to live in Granada. While flat-hunting in English we might be looking for a place that fulfils the 3 Cs (Clean, Comfortable and Cheap) here in Granada it is all about the 3 Bs (Bueno, Bonito y Barato) While we cannot guarantee you will find your dream apartment for your stay here in Granada, we can offer you a few words and phrases that may make things a little easier as you begin your search. The Basics: Vivienda – Home or place to live. Piso en Alquiler – Flat or apartment to rent Piso / casa en venta – Flat /house for sale Compartir piso /Alquilar habitación – Flat share / bedroom to rent Busco piso – Apartment wanted Vendo Piso – Apartment for sale Companero/a de piso - flatmate Alojamiento - accomodation Fianza – deposit (sometimes required, sometimes not. It is common to pay one month’s rent as a deposit)
Descriptions within the advertisements: Gastos incluido o aparte (luz, agua, calefacción, comunidad, wi-fi) Gastos = expenses / bills. Incluido (good, all included) o aparte (rent does not include bills). Typical gastos are: (electricity {luz} water, heating, community/service charges). Gastos in a shared apartment in Granada tend to range from €30 – 50 per month. Habitacion: soleada / amueblada / luminosa. – Bedroom is sunny / furnished / bright Amplio salón y cocina – Large living room and kitchen. Bien comunicada – Well connected (transport etc.) Cama de matrimonio – Double bed No Fumadora – Non Smoker Electrodomesticos - Lavadero / Secadora / Horno / Nevera / Lavavajillas – Electrical appliances – Washing machine / Dryer / Oven / Fridge / Dishwasher Exterior – bedroom faces the street or a garden. Interior – can sometimes mean has a
window to an internal courtyard, or sometimes no window at all. Donde está ubicado? Where is it located Usually a street name will be given, but sometimes you might see: Alcampo / Hipercor / Mercadona – 3 of the bigger supermarkets around Granada often used for giving directions. Alcampo is close to the main bus station. Hipercor is close to Camino de Ronda on Calle arabial. Mercadona, can be a little more confusing as there are more than one, further directions required. Typical GranadinoUn piso que mola – A cool flat! Buen piso y buen royo (rollo) – good flat and good vibes. Ambiente tranquilo – Relaxed atmosphere. Insider word of warning. Flats sometimes differ in reality from their internet descriptions, be sure to go and see the place for yourself first and speak with both the landlord and your new flatmates.
Where to begin your search, check out www.loquo.com or www.mundoanuncios.com
September 2010
GRANADA INSIDER
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Where to watch professional sport in Granada Preview to season 2010/11 by Derek Dohren
Y
ou may be forgiven for assuming that Granada isn’t the most fervent of Spain’s cities when it comes to matters of a sporting nature. After all, this is a place comfortable in the cultural skin of its Moorish history. And though bull fighting may be news around here, people don’t generally travel to Granada to pay homage to the city’s soccer stars. Perhaps though, that’s about to change? Anyone who was here the night Spain won the World Cup will vouch for the depth of feeling football can inspire in these parts. That soccer feel good factor has segued effortlessly into the current season here in Spain with Granada now strutting their stuff in the national Segunda Division having secured promotion last season from the regional-based lower divisions. These are heady times at the club. Granada CF is reaping the benefits of a large cash injection from the new and charismatic president Enrique Pina. A wave of optimism surrounding the club has been tangible since last season’s promotion drive built up its triumphant head of steam in the
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spring. Crowds in excess of 15,000 at the Estadio Nuevo los Carmenes during the run-in attested to the depth of local support here. There’s a large batch of on-loan players at the club, the majority of who hail from Italian team Udinese, a club Granada signed a partnership deal with in 2009. The best known of these players is 20 year old Jonathan Mensah, the Ghanaian defender who played for the Black Stars in this summer’s World Cup. He was loaned out to Granada shortly after the tournament finished and his move is a great coup for the city, not to say also a huge declaration of intent from the current owners. Manager Fabriciano Gonzalez (aka ‘Fabri’) is a highly experienced manager who has spent much of his career in the lower divisions but his no nonsense disciplinarian style played a huge part in gaining the club promotion last year. Appointed in March, shortly after Pina’s arrival, his steady hand ensured there were no slip ups on the way to the title. His bawling out of crowd favourite Dani Benitez during the last home league game in May was
a vignette of the man in action. He called Benitez over to the touchline and berated him publicly before angrily substituting him. Granada went on to win the game, against Real Jaen, 2-0. No favouritism there then. Granada haven’t played at the exalted level of the Segunda Division since 1987-88 and life is sure to be tough this season. What there won’t be a lack of however, is passionate home support. Alongside the Nuevo los Carmenes, in the Palacio de los Deportes, another Granada team is doing more than its fair share to put the city on the sporting map. Club Baloncesto Granada play in the nation’s premier basketball league, the ACB. In a league many consider to be Europe’s toughest the club finished in a creditable mid table position last season. Furthermore, top USA import Richard Hendrix ended the campaign by being voted the ACB ‘Rising Star’. Sadly he has now moved on, having recently signed for Maccabi Tel Aviv in Israel, but the fortunes of the club look sure to stay positive. Coach Trifon Poch is a visionary figure in the game and preaches to his players that the life of a top basketball player has to be viewed holistically. He wants players who eat, sleep, breathe and live the game and Granada’s steady climb to prominence is testimony to the professionalism he has brought to the club since taking charge in 2008.
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September 2010
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Lost In Translation Researched and compiled by Luke O’Donovan
**** Bureaucracy is not the only hurdle to setting up a business in Spain, its often the language that causes just as much trouble for a “guiri”. Over the years there have been some highly entertaining linguistic gaffes made by businesses looking to expand into the Spanish market:
Automobile company Chevrolet maybe could have done with a bit more market research before their Nova model was released into the Spanish market. Translated literally, its name means “star” but when spoken it sounds like “no va” which means “it doesn’t go or no go!” Evite. For English speakers, this might look like what it is: e-invitation. But the first thing some Spanish speakers will see is the formal command for AVOID. Kagome Founded in 1899 by Ichitaro Kanie, a Japanese pioneer in tomato cultivation, Kagome has grown to become the largest producer of Japanese tomato products and a major producer of other fruit and vegetables. Unfortunately, to a Spaniard, it sounds extremely similar to “cago me” or “I shit myself ” When Parker Pen marketed a ballpoint pen in the Hispanic market, its ads were supposed to have read, “It won’t leak in your pocket and embarrass you.” The company thought that the word “embarazar” (to impregnate) meant to embarrass (dar vergüenza ), so the ad read: “It won’t leak in your pocket and make you pregnant.” Brewer Coors put its slogan, “Turn It Loose,” into Spanish, where it was read, to the amusement of the Spanish, as “Suffer From Diarrhoea ” American chicken company “Perdue’s” slogan is, “It takes a strong man to make a tender chicken,” their attempt to translate into Spanish could have been done with a bit more care, A photo of Perdue with one of his birds appeared on billboards with a caption that explained “it takes an aroused man to make a chicken affectionate”
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When American Airlines wanted to advertise its new leather first class seats in the Hispanic market, it translated its “Fly In Leather” campaign, a little too literally, which meant “Fly Naked” (vuela en cuero.) in Spanish An American T-shirt maker in Miami printed shirts for the Spanish market which promoted the Pope’s visit. Instead of “I saw the Pope” (Yo vi el Papa), the shirts read “I Saw the Potato” (Yo vi la papa). Dental product giant Colgate can cause a few smiles among the Spanish speaking population, with their famous brand name interpreted to mean “hang yourself ” (from the verb colgarse – to hang oneself ) Japanese automaker Mitsubishi Motors has a sport utility named Mitsubishi Pajero. The original intention was to call the car after a South American wildcat, but the company’s failure to check other uses of the word (widely used as a slang term for w@n*er) caused many chuckles. In the Americas and in Spain, the vehicle was rebadged as the Montero. However it is not just “extranjeros” that are guilty of such blunders, a few Spanish brands could have been wiser with their choice of brand name as English speaking tourists pack the cities and towns: Bimbo Bread – You’ll quite often see English speaking tourists sniggering in the supermarket aisle on seeing this popular Spanish (attractive but dim) sliced pan. Hornimans Tea - Spanish buyers of this well known tea brand may be unaware of its altogether different English euphemism. Sogay Agua Pura – A very happy brand of Hispanic water Suspiros de Monja (Nun’s Sighs) - A longish, cucumber-shaped sweet pastry
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It must be said though, that these mistakes pale in comparison to some other unfortunate product names and translations from around the world, here are some of the best: The Coca-Cola name in China was first read as “Kekoukela”, meaning “Bite the Wax Tadpole” or “Female Horse Stuffed with Wax”, depending on the dialect. Coke then researched 40,000 characters to find a phonetic equivalent “kokoukole”, translating into “Happiness in the Mouth.” Mucos soft drink ( Japan) Pipi orangeade (Yugoslovia) Pshitt soft drink (France) Shitto hot spiced pepper sauce (Ghana) Zit lemon-lime soft drink (Greece) Heinz Spotted Dick sponge pudding Pocari Sweat (Soft Drink – S. Korea) Barf Detergent (Iran) Grated Fanny Tuna Coq Fromage (France) Jussipussi Bread (Finland) I.Beat.Blaxx (mp3 player – Germany) Wack Off Insect Reppelent (U.S.A)
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Free stuff in Granada
Watching the sunset over the Alhambra from the Mirador San Nicolas: So most people would probably agree that one of the best things about Granada is the Alhambra. Head up to the mirador as the sun is beginning to go down on another beautiful autumn day and you are in for a special treat. For a better feel of the mirador check out Derek Dohren’s description.
on up the carretera de Sacromonte (includes free stuff no.2) follow your ears and you might just stumble upon a traditional free flamenco Zambras in one of the authentic Sacromonte cave bars. People watching. Yes this of course is a common free pastime anywhere in the world; however we feel that Granada is particularly well suited. Maybe due to the large numbers of eager students and the wonderful fresh mountain water one can observe a seemingly endless supply of the renowned Andalusian guapos y guapas. Locals, of all ages, tend to pursue this pastime from 7-9pm most evenings by the “fuente de las batallas” but one must arrive early as the free seating is limited and tends to fill quickly.
Free Cross Training / Step Master. Why not save yourself expensive gym fees by simply discovering everything Granada has to offer by foot. While looking at a map, the city definitely looks very manageable for the pedestrian, but start criss-crossing the Albaycin, Cartuja and Sacromonte neighbourhoods, add in the 30 degree heat of a nice September afternoon and nothing else is required to work off last night’s indulgence.
Free drinking water. There are a number of small wells or fountains around that are ideal for refreshing yourself from the heat of the southern Spanish sun. While bathing is also available in some of the larger municipal fountains. However be warned: to fit in with local customs it is better to take your bath after a victorious football game or sporting occasion, when bathing at other times it may lead to pointing and laughing and a free introduction to the policia local.
Tapas!!! Ok so not wholly free as you do have to pay for a beer/wine /refresco but definitely free in the sense that you won’t find this type of quality or quantity in any other city around Spain or the rest of the world for that matter. Why pay for dinner when you can go out and get you fill on delicious free tapas. Intercambios: Free language exchanges. A good intercambio is an ideal way to improve your conversational Spanish and gain confidence in a relaxed environment. Remember that this is an intercambio of languages and not of telephone numbers. Our recommended group intercambios can be found at Totes & Amigos Tues, Wed and Thurs from 8pm onwards and Casa Lopez Correa every Thursday from 9pm.
Granada Insider: Granada’s number one English language magazine is the best free thing that one can find (or even imagine) here in the home of the Alhambra. Are we allowed this type of bias reporting (ed?) Remember that we are bringing all these marvels of free information to you, so that you can save your Euros to spend wisely in our very generous advertisers found throughout the magazine, without whom this publication would no longer be free. Don’t hesitate to give Granada Insider a mention when visiting such fine establishments.
Free Flamenco – Flamenco in the caves of Sacromonte can be hit and miss. For a guaranteed show, drinks and food you can go with one of the organised tours. However if you are of the inclination to discover something for yourself, just head up past the Paseo de los Tristes and
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us want to be things that we are not. In this way it separates us from the singularity that we possess. However, if we surround ourselves with things that are born of that singularity and made with love and a desire to share, we are in some way led in the search for singularity. It creates an environment in which we are more likely to seek our singularity. What’s your opinion on the measures that the city council want to take against graffiti such as making a record of signatures? Making black lists is prohibited. Supposedly, the police can’t draw up lists of potential suspects. That was stopped after Franco. But, in one way or another, we all know that that will continue to exist, this list is just one
“What happens when there’s a public service that doesn’t fulfil its purpose, whose approach means it isn’t open to the people from here? The bars and the street become spaces of expression for those who have found themselves left out in the cold” more. In any case, they’re not going to accuse me of things that I haven’t done. And as for the things I have done, even if they do accuse me, we’ll see who’s proved right. I take responsibility for everything I’ve done. And I’ve done it because I believe in it. What marks you out from other graffiti artists? I think a possible difference lies in the aesthetics of my pieces. I have my style, my way of doing things. I have my way of doing things when it comes to where I paint and that, but then I also have my own style of painting. My graffiti is very important to me, each of us is always looking for our own style, it’s like what we were talking about before. It’s a search for that singularity, it’s a path towards the inner self to then share what we find within, that’s what’s interesting about it. So, I don’t think there’s a difference between what I do and what other people do, at root level I mean. When it comes to expressing the inner being, everyone does it in his own way. Even so, it’s also
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de mensaje y por eso es más difícil que nos paremos a mirarnos hacia dentro. De hecho, la publicidad lo que tiende es a engordarnos el ego. Tiende a crearnos personajes que no somos nosotros y a querer ser cosas que no somos y eso realmente nos separa de esa singularidad que tenemos. Sin embargo, si nos rodeamos de cosas que están hechas de esa singularidad y con amor, queriendo compartir, eso nos lleva, de alguna manera, a buscar esa singularidad. Crea un ambiente más propicio para que eso pase.
¿Qué te parecen las medidas que quiere tomar el ayuntamiento contra el grafiti como hacer un registro de firmas? Está prohibido hacer listas negras. Se supone que la policía en el ayuntamiento no puede tener una lista de gente sospechosa. Eso desde Franco ya se quitó. Pero, de una manera o de otra, todos sabemos que eso seguirá existiendo, está es una más. De todas maneras, a mí no me van a acusar de cosas que yo no haya hecho. Y de cosas que yo haya hecho, aunque me acusen, veremos a ver si tienen razón. Porque yo de todo lo que he hecho me responsabilizo. Y lo he hecho porque lo creo.
¿Qué te diferencia de otros grafiteros? Yo creo que la diferencia que puede haber es más a nivel estético. Yo tengo mi estilo, mi manera de hacer las cosas. Tengo mi manera de hacer las cosas a nivel de dónde pintar y tal, pero luego también mi tengo mi estilo de pintar. Mis grafitis es una historia muy importante, cada uno siempre estamos
“El grafiti sale de una necesidad que tenemos las personas de expresarnos como lo que realmente somos” buscando nuestro estilo, es como lo que hablábamos antes. Es una búsqueda de esa singularidad, es un camino hacia adentro para compartirlo luego, eso es lo interesante. Entonces, no creo que haya una diferencia entre lo que hago yo y lo que hace otra gente. En la base me refiero, después a la hora de lo que sale de dentro cada uno lo hace como sabe. Aún así también lo que pasa es que es verdad que hay mucha gente en Granada que no está pintando en la ciudad porque no puede.
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true that there are a lot of people in Granada who aren’t painting in the city because they can’t. Many artists have come from the street. It’s clear that many great artists have come from the street. That’s why the thing not to do is turn off that tap of art, that possibility. Quite possibly there are many people who start there and then move onto other pastures. Or even stay there, which is also excellent. The point is that it’s been shown that
“We’ve always liked the street” if we have tools and space around us to express ourselves, we are capable of doing many things; absolutely anything. What I perhaps don’t see in the theatre, I see in the street. That whole idea of “I’m doing it, you can too” is very implicit. It’s subjective but it’s there: “I come here, I pick up my guitar and if I do it you can do it too”. It’s a fantastic message; that offer of art not being limited to the privileged few, but rather being something that strengthens human beings and widens our horizons. I think that often this message is more direct in the street. Even spaces specifically geared to a particular artistic activity, and therefore generally viewed as being better, don’t manage to convey the same message. Whether or not the message is understood depends on the artist. Do you think that Granada is losing artists? Absolutely, it’s been going on for a while. For instance, we’ve painted the emblematic Plaza de la Libertad many times, with international artists coming to join in without there even being an event on. It was pure nature, mates and the street. We would find ourselves painting with an internationally sought-after artist, and there was our piece finished. We can’t paint there anymore. And it was an amazing exhibition site. We used to change it every now and again.
This is a shortened version of the interview with El Nino, the full text is available online at www.granadainsider.com
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Muchas artistas han salido de la calle. Está claro que muchos grandes artistas han salido de la calle. Por eso, lo que no hay que hacer es cerrar ese grifo de arte, esa posibilidad. Puede que haya mucha gente que empiece ahí para luego llegar a otros sitios. O quedarse ahí incluso, que también es muy bueno. El caso es que está demostrado que las personas si tenemos a nuestro alrededor herramientas y espacio para poder expresarnos somos capaces de hacer muchas cosas; absolutamente todo. Lo que quizás no veo en el teatro lo veo en la calle. Ese rollo de “lo estoy haciendo yo, tu también puedes” está muy implícito. Es subjetivo pero está ahí: “yo llego aquí, me he cogido mi guitarra y si yo lo hago tu también lo puedes hacer”. Esa oferta de que el arte no está limitado para una estirpe sino que es una cosa que fortalece al humano y lo amplia a todo. Pues ese
“Lo que quieren es que la gran mayoría de la gente en relación a la cultura sean espectadores. Crear un espectador es crear un cliente” mensaje también es cojonudo, en la calle yo creo que muchas veces es más directo incluso que cuando te metes a un espacio que, aunque sea más propicio para hacer esa actividad en concreto y la gente lo vea mejor, siempre es diferente. Ya depende de lo que haga el artista para que eso se pille o no.
¿Crees que estamos perdiendo en Granada artistas? Totalmente, eso tampoco ha empezado hoy. Por ejemplo, en una plaza emblemática como la Plaza de la Libertad la hemos pintado varias veces con artistas internacionales que han venido sin que hubiera evento. Ahí lo que había era naturalidad, colegas y calle. Y, de repente, tener un artista que está cotizado en todos los lados del mundo pintando con nosotros y ahí está la pieza. Eso ya no se puede hacer. Nosotros ya no podemos ir a pintar esa plaza. Y ese sitio era un sitio de exposición cojonudo. Lo íbamos cambiando de vez en cuando. Hemos cortado el texto. Para leer la entrevista completa visite www.granadainsider.com
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Granada Insider catches up with “El Niño de las Pinturas”.
Translation by Natasha Phillips
Raúl, El Niño de las Pinturas, has become an institution in the world of graffiti with his unmistakable graffiti forming part of the soul of Granada. However, the impossibility of continuing to paint in the streets as a result of new legislation has catapulted him into the centre of a bitter controversy. We caught up with El Niño de las Pinturas in La Candela bar, in his neighbourhood of Realejo.
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Where does graffiti come from? There are a lot of theories about the origin of graffiti. I think that graffiti is born out of a necessity that we have as people to express our true selves, to share, to communicate with others. As such, the birth of graffiti is directly linked to technological advance. Suddenly, the industrial revolution happens and we are provided with spray paints, which enable you to paint very fast. I believe it’s the fastest way of painting striking, large-scale pieces. Plus, it’s an easily accessible tool. Political pieces of graffiti appear. What was previously done with a paintbrush can now be done with spray paint, which is much faster. A tool which was in theory invented to paint shelves is taken and given an artistic use. It’s artistic because there’s a certain type of person using it who is being honest about what they’re doing, they’re doing what they feel they have to do. They are showing and sharing their singularity.
That explains what graffiti does for the artist, but what does graffiti do for the city? Well it’s precisely that essence of singularity that is the key. I think that witnessing glimmers of the singularity of others makes us get in touch with our own singularity. We are used to being surrounded by publicity: things that are soulless, lacking foundation, created for a specific purpose and not entirely trustworthy. We are used to this sort of message and it therefore becomes more difficult for us to pause and look inwardly. In fact, what publicity tends to do is feed our ego. It projects onto us characters different to our own and makes
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Entrevista El Niño de las Pinturas Raúl, el Niño de las Pinturas es ya una institución en el mundo del grafiti, sus inconfundibles grafitis forman parte del alma de Granada. Una ciudad que ahora lo ve envuelto en una agria polémica por la imposibilidad de seguir pintando en la calle. Charlamos con El Niño de las Pinturas en el Bar la Candela, en el Realejo, su barrio.
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¿De dónde viene el Grafiti? Hay muchas teorías sobre eso. Yo creo que el grafiti sale de una necesidad que tenemos las personas de expresarnos como lo que realmente somos. También una necesidad de compartir, de comunicarnos con los demás. El grafiti como tal es una respuesta a los avances que ha habido en la tecnología. De repente aparecen la revolución industrial, aparecen los espráis, una manera muy rápida de pintar, creo que la más rápida que existe en pintura para hacer algo grande y resultón. Bueno, es una herramienta que se pone al alcance de la gente. Aparecen las pintadas políticas. Lo que antes se hacía con brocha ahora se hace con espray, que es mucho más rápido. Lo que se coge es una herramienta que en teoría se hecho para pintar estanterías y se le da un uso artístico. Se trata de un uso artístico porque hay un tipo de personas que está siendo honesto con lo que están haciendo, están haciendo lo que sienten que tienen que hacer. Están manifestando su singularidad y compartiéndola.
Eso sería lo que aporta el grafiti al artista pero ¿qué aporta a la ciudad? Pues precisamente esa esencia que es muy importante. Yo creo que el que las personas podamos contactar con resquicios de lo que es la singularidad de los demás nos hace ponernos en contacto con la nuestra propia. Estamos acostumbrados a estar rodeados de cosas que no tienen alma, no tienen una base, su intención es creada y encima un poco turbia. Esto hablando de la publicidad básicamente. Estamos acostumbrados a este tipo
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ISSUE 04
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YOUR ESSENTIAL ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE
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