Winter 2010/11
INSIDER
YOUR ESSENTIAL ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE
ISSUE 05
GRANADA
The Osborne Bull
Winter Wonderland
Food and Drink
Strength, Virility and Power: how it came to represent a nation.
Skiing in the Sierra Nevada, Markets in Bib-Rambla, the magic of the Three Kings.
We give you all the information to enjoy the best cuisine and discover the liveliest watering holes.
¿Que es Granada Insider? Granada Insider es un completo recurso sobre Granada tanto para extranjeros como para españoles. Completo en el sentido de que no solo lanzamos la revista y llegamos a unos miles de lectores, sino que también disponemos de una página web interactiva como complemento de la misma y en la que además se incluye una copia digital de cada número publicado. A su vez, revista y web se ven apoyadas con el uso continuado de las redes sociales como Facebook, Twitter y YouTube, así como foros y otras páginas de viajes.
Los datos concretos: La tirada es de 4.500 ejemplares por número, llegando a unos 15.000 lectores.
Además hemos recibido visitas desde otras 33 ciudades más de España.
www.granadainsider.com lanzado en Mayo de 2010, estadísticas de Google Analytics
Y 45 otros países. Los países con más frecuencia de visitants a nuestra web son en segundo lugar Reino Unido, seguido de EEUU, Irlanda y Holanda.
El 51% de nuestros visitantes en la web lo hacen desde Granada.
El tiempo medio de la visita fue de 5 minutos 30 segundos y 3,71 páginas vistas.
Algunos comentarios recibidos por parte de nuestros lectores: Granada Insider, no es solo una revista actual en la que encontrar diversa información, curiosidades sobre Granada, sugerencias de bares donde degustar apetitosas tapas... Este magazine va mas allá y muestra de ello es la organización de eventos originales y amenos, salidas en grupo. En definitiva una gran iniciativa para involucrar una a impresionante ciudad, visitantes e incluso locales interesados en conocer otra forma de disfrutar nuestro tiempo. Tatiana (Granada) Como un estudiante de recien llegado en Granada, me alegró mucho a coger un ejemplar gratis de GI y descubrir una revista que tiene una mezcla de artículos fascinantes y también a encontrar información útil para anglohablantes viviendo y trabajando en Granada. La he usado para conocer información sobre eventos, la vida noctuno y donde a comer. Tambien me ha ayudado a descubrir muchos tesoros escondido en la ciudad. Maria (Londres)
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Por parte de nuestros clientes: Hay muy poca información en inglés para que los turistas que visitan Granada se enteren de qué sucede en la ciudad y he visto que Granada Insider llena este vacío. Mis clientes están muy agradecidos cada vez que reciben un ejemplar gratis de la revista. Una de las cosas más apreciadas es el mapa. He tenido numerosos clientes que han visitado mi bar como resultado directo de mi anuncio en GI, lo que es fantástico porque veo que la revista llega al mercado deseado. Otra cosa para la que la encuentro muy útil es el hecho de usar la revista para como medio publicitario dirigido a los turistas y que gracias a él puedan disfrutar al máximo de su tiempo aquí en Granada. Totes, dueña de Totes y amigos (ribera del genil) Consideramos que es una revista con una vision amplia y amena de lo que puedes encontrar en Granada, mezclando ocio y cultura. Artículos variados, buenas fotos y profesionalidad en el acabado. Babel World Fusion (c/ Elvira)
GRANADA INSIDER
Winter 2010/11
GRANADA
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Letter from the Editor
Editor: Mark Stewart
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Sub Editor: Stephen de Wolff Layout and Design: Peter Murray Website: Feature Rich Contributing journalists: Derek Dohren Linda Burridge Michelle Bergmann Katrina Edbrooke Adélaïde Palvadeau Photography: Alvaro “Taco” Quesada Printing: Gráficas Alhambra
Contact Granada Insider For general enquiries contact us: info@granadainsider.com To advertise you can email us: sales@granadainsider.com To include your event in our listings section: agenda@granadainsider.com For comments to the editor: mark@granadainsider.com Tel: +34 958 260334 www.granadainsider.com
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inter in Granada is not a time to hibernate. After the summer lull and the excitement that autumn brings. Winter is the perfect season to take a step back and really enjoy everything that the city has to offer, just make sure that you have nice warm coat and scarf on while doing so. The cliché about the enduring of a “long winter” never really seems appropriate for us here in Granada. Admittedly it does get cold, but somehow the frosty months fly by and t’is spring again before we even have the chance to say “Bah! Humbug.” We have more of your favourites lined up again this issue; including Derek’s diary, Burridge is back with more on what makes Spain so Spanish, we have our guide to the season’s lingo and we interview the delightful Martina Johansson. We also feel that we have a bit of a scoop in our feature article, Carmen’s Story a true insight into a less heralded side of Granada. As always we proffer a better guide to wining and dining, classified listings and party photos than any other publication in Granada. We are also very happy to be printing more copies and distributing in more locations so that we can reach even more cherished readers. To celebrate we are running not just one but two monster giveaways with many great prizes on offer. Full details can be found on the back cover. At this time of year it is nice to take a moment to reflect. 2010 has certainly been a bit of a rollercoaster year; with the highs of Spain winning the world cup, the secret wedding of Penelope and Bardem (secret being the operative word) the sheer joy that is to live in Granada, faced with the lows of the Spanish economy and the lack of any politicial leadership (although it could be worse, we could be in Ireland). Heading into 2011, a new year brings new hope and as long as unemployment continues to fall, the city metro line continues to get built and Granada Insider continues it’s phenomenal rise; things are looking good for a great year ahead of us and we hope to share it with you. So it is time to sit back, put your feet up and enjoy another fantastic issue of Granada’s no.1 cultural magazine.
GRANADA INSIDER
Mark
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What’s Inside 6 Your 5 minute guide to the Alhambra! 8 What’s hot in Granada this winter. 9 El Pimientito. Mark Shurrey complements the day job with his passion for Flamenco. 10 Some sports can be found in the most unlikely of settings, Alvaro Quesada zooms in.
25 Free, Free, Free get more and pay less! 26 ‘The two rivers of Granada. One a cry, the other blood.’
12 More than your average gypsy from the barrio; Carmen’s story.
27 A Californian in Granada. Michelle Bergmann confesses all.
14 Gluten free, Vegan friendly = Great food for everybody at El Piano.
28 Your Spanish Christmas lingo tutorial.
15 Focus on a foreigner. Martina cuts through all obstacles.
29 Dinner at Eleven. Siesta at lunch time, what is the Spanish Timetable.
16 Book of the Month The Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafón. 17 Restaurant Review From Tokyo to Tuscany! 18 City Map 19 Insider Food and Drink. 23 Your GI weekly planner.
30 Winter Paradise. The Ski Season opens in the Sierra Nevada. 31 Derek´s Diary. 32 Classifed Ads and Useful Information. 35 Get in the Picture with Granada Life.
24 A Mystery Revealed. How the Bull became the National Symbol.
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GRANADA INSIDER
Winter 2010/11
GRANADA
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Letter to the Editor
Culture, spare time and entertainment ´Granada a Pie´ is a cultural services company fundamentally dedicated in providing daily walking tours in the city of Granada. The tour includes a visit to the most historical neighborhoods and emblematic monuments of our city. Our purpose is to share our knowledge of the rich artistic, historical and cultural heritage of Granada. We have selected our qualified staff based on their factual knowledge, streetwise experience, and charismatic manners of sharing the
stories of our interesting neighborhoods and attractions. We offer visits every day of the year, from Monday to Sunday. The tour lasts about two and a half hours and is available in both English and Spanish. We will end our tour in a “bar de tapas”, where we offer you a free drink with a tapa, which is a typical appetizer from the city of Granada. This way not only do you get to see history, art, and culture, but also the rich gastronomy of the city!
Daily walking tour through Albaycín Summer visiting hours: 10:30 a.m (From 1st April to 31st October) Winter visiting hours: 11:00 a.m (From 1st November to 31st March) Meeting point: Plaza Nuevas´s fountain
Daily walking tour through the historical center Summer visiting hours: 6:30 p.m (From 1st April to 31st October) Winter visiting hours: 17:30 p.m (From 1st November to 31st March) Meeting point: Jardines del Triunfo´s fountain
* Only for children accompanied by their parents
In response to the letter from Sally & Sam Hobbis on my comments about the article in Issue 3 regarding flights into Granada from the UK: I agree entirely with Sally and Sam that the withdrawal of airlines from the UK has had a devastating effect on the city of Granada. I was in fact misquoted in the article. My business is based in La Alpujarra and I was asked how the withdrawal of Ryanair had affected my business and my clients. My reply to that question still stands; that it has not affected people living or travelling to La Alpujarra so much as it did affect them when Monarch pulled out a few years ago. Particularly, as with the almost completed new motorway from Málaga, it now only takes 1 hour and 20 minutes from Malaga to La Alpujarra. Once this motorway is completed in a few months time, it will only take about an hour and 10 minutes. Thus only 10 minutes more than it takes from Granada to La Alpujarra. Nevertheless, it would obviously be better for all concerned if incoming flights from the UK were re-instated.
Walking tours through Granada including a drink and a “tapa” for free!
Price list: - Normal ticket: 12€ - Retired people and students: 10€ - Children under 14 years old: Free *
Sir,
Regards, Caroline Frohwein Ricaño Special prices for groups! We promise to entertain!
To find out more information and to make a reservation, inquire at your hotel reception or email us at info@granadaapie.com or visit our website www.granadaapie.com
958563476 - 958563462 – 637082188
Winter 2010/11
GRANADA INSIDER
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a quick guide to The Alhambra
A Very Brief History:
The origins of the Alhambra are believed to date back to Roman times. However the palaces and gardens were reconstructed during the Nasrid dynasty (13th – 15th centuries). It was transformed into a self-sufficient city boasting fertile gardens, a functioning irrigation system and opulent luxury. On January 2nd 1492 the army of the catholic monarchy (Fernando and Isabel) marched into Granada and the last stronghold of Moorish Spain came to an end.
What to See There
The Alcazaba - is the oldest part of the citadel and its watchtower yields spectacular views of the Albaicín and the city below. The Palace of Carlos V - is the youngest portion of the Alhambra,
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having been built in the Renaissance (1526). The Generalife - the Garden of the Architect, is set outside the main area and was once used as the royal summertime escape. The Nasrid Palace – The jewel of the crown, considered one of the most spectacular examples of medieval Islamic architecture and extravagant attention to detail. (Specific time slots for visiting this area are given when purchasing your ticket)
How to get there:
-Bus 30-32 in Plaza Nueva, bus ticket €1.20, bring change. -Walking from Plaza Nueva, take Cuesta de Gomerez and continue straight up the hill (25min).
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How much it costs:
Price per person €12, children under 12 free but they also need a ticket. Buy online at www.servicaixa. es . Write down or print the ref. number, as you will need to show this, as well as your id/passport and the credit card you made the purchase with in order to collect your tickets At the Alhambra itself, tickets are on sale at the entrance only for the day of the visit. Be warned they sell out quickly, so get there early to avoid disappointment. Daytime opening hours: 08:00 19:00. Night visit: 22:00 - 23:30.
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What’s hot in Granada this Winter The Sierra Nevada Ski Season 2010-11
Free Matisse exhibition in the Palacio Carlos V (In the grounds of the Alhambra).
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s you should all be well aware the Sierra Nevada ski resort is just up the road and there is great snow forecast for this winter. Many new additions have been added to the resort for extra comfort and enjoyment for all visitors. These include an extra 600 car parking spaces, a new and much improved snow-board park, a better play park for youngsters, as well as newly surfaced roads around the resort. See p28 for more details.
he exhibition commemorates the centenary of the French painter’s visit to the Alhambra and recreates the fascination he felt for the Oriental world after his journey to Spain, Andalusia and the Alhambra, where he visited in December 1910. There are 35 Matisse originals on display throughout the winter complemented by other prized Islamic art. Location: Palace of Charles V Exhibition Closes: February 28, 2011 Sunday - Thursday: 9am to 6pm Friday and Saturday: 9am to 8pm Special access schedule for visitors with reduced mobility: everyday, from 11:30 to 12:30 and from 4:30 to 5:30 pm
Granada Sport
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ranada CF, the local football team continue to impress in the second division. With the Liga Adelante (2nd flight) format revised this year, where the top 2 placed teams are automatically promoted and 3rd-6th place finishers playing in a play-off for the final promotion spot, as midseason approaches Granada look ready to fight to stay in contention for that play-off berth. Tickets for the games can be bought from the stadium box office from 3 hours prior to kick off. For the busier games you can buy tickets in advance from the club shop on Calle Recogidas 35, the week before the game. Tickets start from €20. For times and dates check out www.granadainsider.com one week in advance of the game.
The Celebrity Couple Wills and Kate who? We are talking about the ultimate dreamy a-list pareja. But how much do you know about them?. Penelope Cruz 1. Penelope is from which city in Spain? 2. She won an Oscar for her role in which movie? 3. She claims when she was a little child she wanted to enter what profession? Javier Bardem 4. He first starred alongside the beautiful Penelope in which classic movie? 5. He won his Oscar in 2007 for his role in which movie? 6. How many hearts did he break and dreams did he shatter when he married Penelope? Check answers in the classified section on p.31
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Winter 2010/11
Following the Dream: Mark Shurey - Osteopath and flamenco guitarist Words by Katrina Edbrooke
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any people come to Spain on holiday and consequently decide they want to live here. Mark Shurey knew he wanted to live in Spain long before he ever set foot in the country. From an early age growing up in Norwich, Mark was fascinated by the guitar and was studying classical music when, by chance, he met a group of Gypsy travelers camping on an abandoned airstrip. Mark remembers those days as idyllic, practising guitar in a beautiful orchard surrounded by caravans, horses and most importantly
musicians and dancers. They taught him the complex flamenco rhythms and how to accompany the dancers and even took him with them when they travelled around Holland and Ireland performing. It was this experience that made him realise he could leave England. One day he decided to do just that. He left his job, sold his house, jumped on a boat and, carrying his guitar, hitched across country all the way to Almería. With enough money to last a year, he was determined to make the
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most of it. Eleven years later, he is still here and runs successful osteopath clinics in Granada and Nerja as well as being an accomplished flamenco guitarist whom the locals have nicknamed Pimientito, little pepper. However, on arriving in Andalucía he had been stunned by the flamenco guitarists he met. “I felt cheated almost. I had thought I had a high level of playing and then discovered I still had a long way to go”. Mark chose to settle in Nerja where he found a small but thriving flamenco scene. Regular performances at the flamenco clubs meant Mark could spend his evenings accompanying rumbas, improving his Spanish and gaining acceptance amongst the flamenco players. In England he had graduated with a Diploma in Osteopathy from the European school of Osteopathy in Kent. It served him well, five years of training was followed by four years of working for the NHS and on his arrival to Nerja he found he was the only qualified Osteopath in the region. After 2 years of working from home, a place he describes as a dream house with its own beach, he established himself in professional premises in Nerja. Mark had always wanted to live and work in Granada and four years ago he found the perfect place, on Gran Via, to open another clinic. “One of the good things about practising here is working alongside other doctors and being able to refer people to specialists in a very short time with no waiting lists”. Many of his patients come from the flamenco world. “I started off treating quite a lot of musicians, bizarrely they trusted me not because of my qualifications but because I was a guitarist.” Flamenco and osteopathy may seem worlds apart but Mark feels they have a lot in common in that both are physically demanding and require total concentration. “I really would not want to spend my entire life doing one or the other, the fact is that they are both complementary. Working during the day as an osteopath is something that I find incredibly rewarding but actually it can be quite draining as well, so flamenco works as a release for me”. Granada clinic :
Gran Via, 26, Planta 6 izq. Tel: 618994590 Nerja Clinic: Calle Angustias, 27 Tel: 952526881
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LET’S
play
Ball! Photography and words by
Alvaro Quesada
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he recent World Series of Baseball, (last October) finally became a little bit more “worldly” with the largest number of Latino players ever to contest the showpiece between the Texas Rangers and the victorious San Francisco Giants. While in the U.S. baseball may take a break during the winter season this is not the case in the South of Spain. As migration patterns develop and become more of a social influence, certain sports and national traditions begin to take on new meaning in places that you may least expect them to. In this case we are taking an Insider look at Baseball in Granada. In a clearing in the woods a little outside the city, an old dirt football pitch, with the addition of a makeshift diamond, has been converted into the home of baseball in Granada. With stunning views of the nearby mountains of the Sierra Nevada it really makes it a unique spot to play a little ball, whatever the time of year. Here the most common played game is softball, with some ex-professional players, many amateurs and those that simply love to play, all taking part in a nicely competitive, but more importantly a friendly and social game every Saturday morning throughout the year. In this little corner of Andalucía just like in the World Series, a large number of the players are Latinos. Playing in the Llano de la Perdiz,
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to the rhythm of the Bachata and the clink of the bat, the game is enjoyed with a great mix of Anglo Latina slang to make this typically American sport their own. If you are interested in getting involved and playing softball here, you will find contact information on www.granadainsider.com or send us an email: info@granadainsider.com
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Tales from the Poligono : Carmen’s story by Katrina Edbrooke
Carmen and Sheila on set with Jesus Quintero
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very Spanish city has a poligono, an industrial area on the outskirts of town. It is where the poorest of the poor live, more often than not the Spanish Gypsies. In Granada this neighbourhood is called Almanjáyar. Over the last few years the area has seen massive construction with a new commercial centre housing Kinéopilis, the multi screen cinema as well as a Carrefour, Akí, Mediamarkt and various other large stores. New roads and roundabouts are being built and a swimming pool has been opened. The neighbourhood is changing but not fast enough for some people. “We don’t want to live there anymore,” says Carmen, who was born and brought up on Calle Molina Nueva. “Sure the neighbourhood has improved, but it depends what zone you live in. The junta have put a building here and they fixed up the roads, but for them not for us.” The part of Almanjáyar where Carmen grew up is a neighbourhood of high rise flats and high unemployment, as well as cockroaches, strutting
The bus is covered with metal grilles as if it were entering a war zone, and that is what Almanjáyar can seem like chickens scratching in dirt, horses tied to trees and families sitting on sofas dragged out onto the streets to escape the sweltering heat of apartments with too many occupants and no air-conditioning. The inhabitants are on the bottom rung of the social ladder and are predominately Gitanos. I take the number 1 bus to the heart of Almanjáyar to meet Carmen. The bus is covered with metal grilles as if it were entering a war zone, and that
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is what Almanjáyar can seem like with its wide pot holed streets, burnt out cars and children running around with dirty faces. I have brought my camera but some sort of family feud is brewing, men in the street are gesticulating and shouting, the atmosphere aggressive. I gathered there was a problem with a wedding, maybe a promised bride has reneged on the deal. Marriages are often arranged in the Gypsy community, but very rarely forced on someone against their will. “What do you want to photograph?” asked Carmen. I pointed further down the road to an old man slouched in a plastic chair, a hat over his eyes, a white horse held on a piece of string. Her face told me all I needed to know. “Perhaps today is not a good day,” I say as the shouting turns to scuffling on the far side of the street. Carmen agrees and visibly relaxes when I put the camera away. It is a Sunday morning, so we head to the Marcha Verde, an open air street market held weekly on the Calle de la
Casería de Aguirre. The stalls that line the streets sell everything: fruits,and veg, clothes, shoes, handbags, CDs, light fittings, curtains and materials. The prices are low and the atmosphere, as you would expect from any street market, is noisy and colourful. It attracts locals and tourists alike and is well away from the less salubrious residential areas just in front of the commercial centre. One of the first pieces of advice I was given by a well meaning local when I came to live in Granada was “Never go to Almanjáyar!” and to emphasis his point, “Don’t even drive through there, and if you do just pray you don’t break down”. At the time I had no idea where Almanjáyar was, but by coincidence the following week my husband, a music producer, and I were invited to a children’s performance put on by the Gypsy Association. We went by car and yes it broke down which at the time was terrifying but it was also the beginning of many wonderful friendships, and the night I first met Carmen.
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Carmen and Sheila on
The group we saw perform that night was called “Taller de Compás de Almanjáyar” (Rhythm Workshop of Almanjáyar) and the children, including Carmen as singer, ranged in age from 12 to 16. We went on to produce their CD ‘Cale Calé’ (Gypsy Rhythms) recording them in a windowless basement on Calle Molina Nueva, keeping the recording equipment locked up in a nearby garage. One hot afternoon Carmen’s brother Andrés and I stepped out of the garage, squinting into the bright sunlight to see two young lads pointing rifles at us. Andrés turned to lock the doors then firmly took my arm and said, “now we walk away”. Later he told me the way to survive was never to show your fear. Luckily the equipment was still there when we returned and that was the only bad experience I´ve had in the barrio. The CD was a great success and I became chaperone to the girls as they traveled all around Spain performing. We even spent a month touring North America. It was quite an honour to be trusted with these young Gypsy children, aged 14 to 18, and without my female presence the girls would not have been allowed to go. Andrés was the dancer in the group and he continues to dance professionally, performing every Wednesday at the restaurant Zoraya in the Albaicín. They are all grown up now and married with kids themselves. In the Gypsy community it is not unusual for some to marry as young as 13. However as the youngest member of her family Carmen remained at home to care for her elderly father. Her mother had long since gone to live elsewhere and her father was in no hurry to see Carmen married off
young like her many friends. Carmen was in no hurry either but for different reasons. When she did marry, aged 23, only two family members attended her wedding. The ceremony made it to the front pages of the newspaper Ideal with the headline “Gypsy lesbian marries Cripple”. Carmen and her partner Sheila were not offended. We have been called worse, they say, laughing. Sheila has a deformed spine and walks with a pronounced limp. She is also a flamenco percussionist and has played with artists such as Juan Pinilla, Ana Calí and Antonio Vallejo. The wedding was filmed by an Argentinian film maker Luciana Terribili who has followed the lives of Carmen and Sheila over the last two years. The documentary is called “La Pitimini, la Pequeña Flor”, a reference to Carmen’s flamenco name ‘La Pitimini’ which means the little flower. The film is now in post-production and has the support of the National Institute of Cinema in Argentina. Mayte Martin, the famous flamenco singer and also a lesbian has
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their wedding day
Carmen with her father and her brother Andreas
agreed to sing her song “SOS” for the film soundtrack. Their marriage also caught the attention of Jesus Quintero who invited them onto his chat show “Ratones Colorados” Canal Sur TV where Carmen was delighted to sing live on television as well as meeting such stars as David Bisbal and Antonio Carmona. However, not everyone was so delighted for them. When Carmen’s father first heard the news he rushed out into the street and proclaimed to his neighbours in Almanjáyar that his daughter was gay and he was throwing her out. They all cried out “shame on them,” but it was apparent that they already knew long before he did. Despite his outburst he returned to the apartment where Carmen and Sheila were preparing his supper. At 85 years old he still lives with them though they no longer live in Almanjáyar. It is a difficult place to live, but for a lesbian gypsy defying her own culture, it is impossible.
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EL PIANO-granada‛s
world food take-away...
if you think eating tofu is like chewing the inside of your cheek, think again....
Celebrating three years in Granada this month, and with 13 members of staff, El Piano offers a world of ready made food to take away. Prices start at €1.50. There are cakes, falafels, bhajis, exotic rices, salads and a slew of sauces and savouries to choose from with plenty of options for cooking at home. Check out the noodles, PATAK curry pastes, lime leaves, lemon grass, even home made tofu. A stunning variety of silicone cookware adds colour, and then there are classes to show you how to use it all...
A policy of organic buying where possible means that most dishes have some element that is organic. Although fresh fruit and vegetables are much harder to find in regular supply than the dried products like pulses, flours and sweetners, El Piano have been able to use fresh organic products by buying locally and their contact with local produce providers is on the increase. During the Andalusian growing season as much as 90% of their dishes are made using locally grown ingredients. 100% glutenfree 100% vegan 100% nut free except for coconut & sesame
And if that is not enough to tempt you, note the biodegradable packaging, the pine boats, the 100% corn ‘plastic’ and the 100% potato carrier bags.
It takes a while to notice that everything is both vegan and gluten-free. This glutenfree and vegan aspect could seem either fadist or elitist yet El Piano seems to be far from either. Customers range from bureaucrats to students, from young parents to people with eating restrictions, from retired locals to workers in a hurry for a hot mid-day meal at a good price.
If you want to eat in, stand at the bar, help yourself to a free infusion, peruse all the various leaflets about what’s on in Granada and strike up a conversation with the stranger next to you...
“When we started the first El Piano in the UK in 1997,” says founder Magdalena Chávez, “our goal was for everyone to be able to eat everything. The range of our customers suggests that we are achieving this.” For Florence Millett, owner of El Piano Granada, the appeal of El Piano to people with food allergies and intolerances has been important. “Coeliac disease is high in the Hispanic population worldwide. Being able to offer, not only exotic and world food, but also be able to include people with eating restrictions is really satisfying. And to be able to live here too? Amazing.”
Now open daily both in Gran Capitán and in Realejo
Granada Centro - c/Gran Capitán, 7 bajo Granada Realejo - Plaza de Realejo 3 open daily 11am - 11pm Events Program
www.el-piano.com
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Winter 2010/11
Interview with a Foreigner
Martina Johansson
Where are you originally from? The south-east coast of Sweden. Why Granada? I did french and Hispanic studies at university on London and came here to study for a semester in 2003. I went back, finished my degree and returned to Granada a year and half later and then ran a bar for two years. What are you currently doing here? I run my own hairdressing business in the Realejo. Was this a life-long dream? I had always wanted to have a salon of my own since I got into hairdressing fifteen years ago, but had no idea I would end up in this part of the world! Spain has something of a macho reputation. Have you encountered this? We have to bear in mind that up until 30 odd years ago, Spain was under a dictatorship and women were not allowed to work without permission of their husband. The older generations who lived through this are likely to find it difficult to understand out modern society. Personally, if anything I have only found advantages being a woman here. What about being a foreigner trying to set up a business – had any difficulties? The great thing about setting up a business in a new country is that you are unaware of the possible complications; therefore you don’t see any obstacles until you encounter them. Without the fear of the unknown we’re more productive. Noticed any major differences from where you come from? What was the biggest culture shock? Well, where do I start? In Sweden everything works perfectly and it’s
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all extremely organized, probably the complete opposite to Andalucía. Here chaos rules, but people seem happier, less stressed and less worried in general. Having lived ten years in London where so many different cultures live side by side probably helped reduce the shock factor. Have things gotten easier with time? I just take things with a pinch of salt. There’s no need to get worked up if something doesn’t go to plan. It’s better to just smile and embrace the differences. Have you met many other foreigners living here in Granada? The area where I have my salon has become very cosmopolitan. Once I had clients of nine different nationalities in the same day. It’s like travelling the world without physically moving. Is there anything particular Granada offers for you to enjoy your free time? Had Oscar Wilde lived here he would most certainly have said “If you’re bored of Granada, you’re bored of life”. Between the thousands of great bars, amazing views, and a huge supply of cultural events, the list is endless. A quick summary of all that has made Granada special to you? The people. I have never met so many interesting characters in my life! Any advice for someone that is trying to follow their dreams and set up their life in Granada? Don’t give up! Let’s finish with a joke. Heard any good ones recently? I only know one, but it’s too rude to print…
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Book of the Month
The Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafón
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parallel Carax’s. Haunted, pursued by the mysterious leather-faced man who is out to destroy Carax’s work, Daniel is also haunted by the women he desires, and by the need to construct an emotional self beyond the boundaries of childhood. “The Shadow of the Wind” is an extraordinarily well-written novel. It moves at a gentle, cerebral pace, so you barely notice you are on a rollercoaster ride through fantasy. Yet it is a wonderful evocation of Barcelona - not the city of tourist brochure and sunshine, but a dark, mysterious city, lived in by real people enduring real fear and oppression. The fantasy is merely a dark cloak; once you begin to peer under it you feel this is a vivid insight into the subconscious of Spain.
Barcelona, 1945. The civil war is well and truly over and Franco’s bully boys rule the roost. However, Spain’s fascist regime is looking more and more isolated; Mussolini has fallen and the allies are closing in on Hitler. One winter’s morning, a tenyear-old boy, Daniel, is taken by his bookseller father to the Cemetery of Forgotten Books, a labyrinthine library of obscure titles that have long gone out of print. Daniel is allowed to choose one book from the shelves and pulls out “La Sombra del Viento”, “The Shadow of the Wind” by Julian Carax. So begins Daniel’s fascination with the enigmatic Julian Carax. As he grows up, he becomes determined to unravel the mystery. Why did Carax flee Barcelona, and why is somebody trying to destroy all copies of his books and all trace of his life? The destruction of an artist’s life and works is a potent exploration of censorship and the ability of Franco’s followers to fictionalise history. Life imitates art as Daniel’s life seems to
“The Shadow of the Wind”, by Carlos Ruiz Zafón is published by Orion and costs 12.00 euros. It’s available at Metro International Bookshop, c/Gracia, 31. Tel 958 261565. metrolibros@terra.es
GRANADA INSIDER
Winter 2010/11
Restaurant Review:
Giardinos Giardinos is unique in Granada for its combination of an idyllic location right in the heart of the city, its inviting outdoor terrace and the choice of a quality menu. Filipo the chef of Giardinos has an envied culinary background mixing the best from his years working in London and his true passion for traditional Italian fare. Weather it is Panini at lunch time, a large bowl of pasta in the afternoon or that tender sirloin steak for dinner that you have been longing for but just couldn’t find, the right food at the best price is all here in Plaza Romanilla. Are you fed up with oil on toast and calling it breakfast, for the only true full English breakfast in Granada get down to Giardinos today.
Enjoy “la dolce vita” at Giardinos in Plaza Romanilla.
Sushi Bar Wakame When East Meets West: Sushi Bar Wakame Just the other day I had an insatiable craving for sushi. Lucky for me Sushi Bar Wakame, with their talented sushi chef Ken, was just around the corner. Trained at Tsukiji, in the Tokyo fish market, Ken prepared for me and a friend an assortment of mouth-watering sushi rolls each one better than the last. With a feel that is authentically Japanese, this sushi bar is unique among the rest in Granada. Providing friendly service and attention to detail, Sushi Bar Wakame is a must for anyone looking for extraordinary sushi. I ended up going back just 3 days later and decided to go for their recently introduced menu del día. To say that I have never found better value in a sushi bar anywhere in the world would be no word of a lie. They are now offering incredible Menu del Día for just €9 including some absolutely incredible treats, make sure to try the “Buey del mar” (King prawn platter) which I had for a starter, which comprised of the large stuffed shell as well as the meaty claws and legs and side salad. This was followed by a simply delicious chicken Teriyaki. It is not often that you can enjoy such a feast and feel so refreshed and healthy afterwards.
Winter 2010/11
Open from 12:30 - 16:30 and 20:00 - close
Tel: 651 486 512 Calle Martinez Campos 8, 18005 Granada.
We also offer courses in sushi preparation, full details can be found at the bar.
Menu del Día at Sushi Bar: Choose 2 plates from choice of 12 (includes 2 signature dishes) with drink and homemade dessert. Just €9 From 12:30 – 16:30 Mon-Fri
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Map of Granada
Totes y Amigos Bar, Cafe, Restaurant Kasbah Traditional Tétería Taberna Macande From the classic to the international! Metro Bookshop English and International Books Babel World Fusion Casa Lopez Correa Restaurant & Cocktail Lounge
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El Sitio Great Tapas, Raciones and More Giardinos Italian - English Restaurant The Alhambra Chile Grande Mexican bar and restaurant Sushi Sushi Bar Wakame San Nicolas Restaurante San Nicolas Granada 10 Ladies Night Every Wednesday
Velez Casas Estate Agents and Renovations Mo Hi Too Cocktail Bar Lírica Bar and venue El Piano Great food to take away El Piano 2 El Piano in the Realejo Martina’s Hair stylist Elece Language School
GRANADA INSIDER
Winter 2010/11
Cantina Mexicana Chile Grande This charming and colourful familyrun restaurant prides itself on its combination of quality and value for money... From Monday to Friday a menu of the day is available for a mere €7… the al la carte menu is available all day up to 24.00 and the restaurant is open 7 days a week. Thursday evenings in La Cantina Mexican Chile Grande are something of an institution in the city, with margaritas available for only €1 which makes the restaurant popular with the younger generations, and help gives it its vibrant atmosphere. So, whether you are a devout fan or have never tried the world of botanas, tentempies, fajitas, nachos, or burritos, La Cantina Mexican Chile Grande will certainly not disappoint you.
Winter 2010/11
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Eating Out
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CASA LOPEZ CORREA
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Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge, Est.1913
Totes: May Interview An Englishwoman running a bar in Granada – a little bit loca? .... “It was a case of love at first sight for Totes, the buzz of the city and being able to walk everywhere persuaded her that Granada was the perfect place to settle......... Most importantly go for it, life is too short for regrets...... She adores the constant buzz of the city and the fact that there is always something going on here.” For full interview check out www.granadainsider.com/magazine
Italian & English Cuisine / Extensive range of vegetarian dishes Menu del Dia / Tapas & Raciones / Cocktail Menu Range of English Ales & Ciders / “Fatto con Amore”
Opening Hours
Restaurante San Nicolas: Review November 2010. “It has to be one of Granada’s hidden gems... if you are looking for somewhere to go for a romantic meal or other special occasion... this is the place. Our ecstatic taste buds could barely do justice to the duck breast, served with champagne soaked pears... Rabo del Toro (oxtail stew), and Padron green peppers. ” For complete review www.granadainsider.com/food
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Casa Lopez Correa: Review June 2010 “The cuisine is primarily Italian and English. Sue, an excellent chef who has worked in some of London’s top restaurants.... sources all her fresh produce; meat fish, eggs, fruit and vegetables, locally in Realejo and where possible she purchases organic.” For complete review www.granadainsider.com/food
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Monday - Friday: 13.00 -17.00 & 20.00 - 01.00 Saturday: 20.00 - 02.00 Intercambio Night - Thursdays 20.00 onwards Jam Session - Fridays 22.00 onwards
C/ de los Molinos 5, Realejo, Granada 18009 Tel: 958 22 37 75
email: benedictsue@yahoo.co.uk Facebook: Casa Lopez Correa
Winter 2010/11
A Fairy Tale For All The Family Your insider guide to festivities in Granada with Adélaïde Palvadeau
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he streets of the city centre began to breathe the Christmas spirit last week as decorations in the shop-windows and streets set the tone for the festive season: the magic is back. Just like every year, Granada council organise different events to get the city into the spirit of Christmas. We had a word with the organisers of these annual events to help let you know what activities Granada has planned for December and January. With the postcard landscapes of the Sierra Nevada and the river Genil, and a pinch of imagination, one might even think it may resemble the little town of Bethlehem. Speaking about the nativity scene, cribs can be found around the city and not only in churches, one will be displayed in la Plaza del Carmen (the Town Hall square) from the 17th of December until 6th of January. There is also a competition organised to select the best nativity scenes: the “Ruta de Belenes”. The scenes are selected from four categories: traditional, popular, crafts and children. The registration for the competition began Monday the 15th of November and about thirty participants are expected. Churches, associations, colleges and shops of the city will all be taking part. You can visit the different nativity scenes from the 15th of December to
the 7th of January. All the information and maps will be available soon in Granada Tourist Offices. Another festive treat to enjoy is the popular “Mercado de la Plaza de BibRambla”. A fair that attracts the best “arts and crafts” from the region. It is also a great place to pick up last minute presents and stocking fillers. You can soak up the Christmas atmosphere wandering among the seventy stands that will fill the plaza and stop off in one of the many bars for something to warm you up. After visiting the stalls in the market you can sample the typical Christmas pastries of Spain, mantecados or turrón. The market will be opened from the 3rd of December to the 6th of January from 10am to 2pm and from 5pm to 10pm. Finally, to conclude the Christmas season, the Cabalgata de los Reyes (the King’s Parade) which represents the visit of the 3 wise men (or magic kings) will take place on the 5th of January. The three wise men will parade through the city centre distributing sweets to the children. The procession will begin from calle Ganivet and end in the Plaza del Salón or the Palacio de Congresos depending on the progress of the roadworks. Information will be available in the Town Hall, Tourist Offices and in local newspapers (or on our website www.granadainsider.com).
Winter 2010/11
GRANADA INSIDER
La Noche Vieja (New Year’s Eve) converts Granada into a one big party with everybody eating grapes at midnight (one for each chime of the bell). It is said that if you manage to eat all twelve grapes before the stroke of midnight you will have good luck for the coming year. Other tapas and typical food like olives, shellfish (especially prawns), chorizo, jamón Serrano all illustrate local Christmas and New Year culinary delights.
If you are looking for a traditional English Christmas dinner or to organise a Christmas party why not give Sue a call in Casa Lopez Correa for more details. Tel: 958 22 37 75 Or for that very special New Years Eve celebration get down to Calle Elvira and don´t miss any of the excitement planned in Babel World Fusion. For something a little different to ring in the new year, have a look at Kasbah, where a very special celebration is taking place.
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Food and Drink on Calle Elvira Advertise your bar/restaurant in the Insider Food.
Contact sales@granadainsider.com
We will remain open during the holidays including the 24th, 25 and 31st. Check our special New Year’s Eve menu. We look forward to seeing you.
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GRANADA INSIDER
Winter 2010/11
Our choice of Cocktail this Winter T
he heat and the fine weather may have disappeared, but that doesn’t mean it is not the perfect time to enjoy some cocktails. And even less so when you find out about the house cocktails designed for the winter season by the best bartenders of MO HI TOO bar. In MO HI TOO bar you will find the widest choice of cocktails and friendly service that keeps getting better and better since they opened 3 years ago. The bartender and the creator of many of these magnificent cocktails and owner of this establishment, Teresa Granado Francés, invites you to come in and feel at home. She will help you to choose the ideal cocktail for the right moment or might even dazzle you with an elaborate and secret cocktail like you have never tasted before. She has taken it upon herself to create a new list of cocktails for a new season. Will you dare to discover cocktails with the best of illy coffee that gives that extra little kick, or with the finest of Arabic tea that will transport you to a new world of flavours and sensations. Hot cocktails for the coldest nights of the year to keep you warm or a mix of tastes and temperatures to tantalise your palate.
Along with the new warm cocktails we still offer the choicest international cocktails, the tried and trusted classics and of course the best mohitoo in Granada. You should probably try our mohitoo falvoured with passion fruit, melon or even watermelon. Apart from our comprehensive menu of international cocktails we also make sure of a welcoming and peaceful atmosphere that hits just the right vibe to ensure excitement and the perfect buzz. We blame the bartenders for enjoying their job so much and creating the entertaining and sociable atmosphere that is naturally passed on to everyone that walks through our doors. A great place to chat, get to know new people, make friends and who knows maybe even a little bit more… it’s all here and waiting for you. We offer cocktails with prices that suit all wallets. You can now enjoy your second cocktail for just 50 cents more between 9-10pm Monday to Friday.
Welcome to a world of cocktails, Welcome to a world of sensations. Welcome to MO HI TOO bar.
What you need for the classic Mojito 4 cl Quality White Rum 3 cl Lime Juice 3 Fresh Mint Leaves 2 Spoons of brown sugar. A splash of soda water Crushed Ice.
John Sánchez Oquendo, Head Barman
MO HI TOO bar, Calle Navas 18, Open Mon - Sat
Winter 2010/11
GRANADA INSIDER
Make the most of your week: Monday Menu del Día at Chile Grande (start your week with some great tasting Mexican) Pub Quiz at Hannigans II, from 9pm Tuesday Menú del Día at Kasbah (Delicious food with an ethnic flavour) Intercambio at Totes y Amigos, Eng – Span in a friendly group environment (Tues –Thurs). Wednesday Menú del Día at Giardinos (sit out on the terrace and treat your senses) Live music at Lirica - Always a great selection of local artists in an intimate setting. Ladies night at Granada 10. The biggest international student party every week in Granada Thursday Menú del Día at El Sitio del Salon, (a truly Spanish lunchtime experience) Margharita night at Chile Grande, all margharitas just €1 Friday Menú del Día at Sushi Bar Wakame (Finish the week in style!) Realejo Jam Session at Casa Lopez Correa, every Friday from 10pm till late. Saturday Board games at Totes, meet new people in a spanglish speaking environment. 8 till midnight. Dj Polar at Lirica more great tunes in one of the newest and hippest bars in town. La Liga football in el Sitio del Salon (every week the big games are at 20:00 and 22:00) Sunday Full English Breakfast at Giardinos (ok it is a good breakfast every day of the week, but particularly special the morning after the night before) Sunday Roast at Casa Lopez Correa, the traditional and still the best way to spend your Sunday afternoon. N.B. Menú del Día consists of a starter and main course and all include, bread, a drink and dessert/coffee. All of our suggestions above for lunch serve the menu del día from Mon - Fri
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The Osborne Bull The unofficial, unplanned symbol of Spain
You know you’re in Spain when you’re driving along a highway and in between olive groves and small villages, you spot a black cut-out of a bull. But do you know the history behind this symbol? Read on to find out...
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here is one big hint in the name given to the structures. Osborne is the name of a brandy and sherry company that was established by Thomas Osborne Mann in 1772. Originally from England, he founded his business in Puerto de Santa María, which is a small town near Cádiz. This same company is still in business and produces many of the sherries and wines that you’ll find in bars today. To promote their brandy, the original toros de Osborne were constructed in 1957 and positioned nearby highways throughout Spain. They were originally 4 metres high, built from wood and black with the brand of sherry ‘Veterano’ written in red. In 1961 they increased the size of them to 7 metres and also started to produce them from more durable sheet metal. The following year, legislation was passed that meant all billboards had to be further away from the road. This encouraged the Osborne sherry company to increase their size again to 14 metres and enable them to be positioned on top of hills silhouetted by the sky.
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A simple design that says a lot Little encapsulates Spain other than this shape of the bull. This design efficiently combines many aspects of Spanish culture - bullfighting and the history and pageantry associated with this controversial sport but it also provides links to Spain’s rural and farming industries. This simple design; set against the backdrop of an Iberian landscape, has made it hard to imagine anything more typically ‘Spanish’. The shape of the proudly standing bull also conveys the notions of virility, power and masculinity and this symbolism has also been exploited by filmmakers. In the movie Jamón, Jamón, there is recurring shot of two young lovers... err... ‘spending quality time’ together underneath one of the Osborne bulls. And if you go to any souvenir shop, you will see the black cut-out of the bull on t-shirts, flags and postcards. It’s easy to see that this shape has transcended advertising and has become the unofficial symbol of Spain. Nearly lost to legislation In July 1994 a new General Highways Act was passed that limited advertising on highways. As a result; all of the Osborne bulls had to be removed to adhere to this legislation.However after lots of media attention and support from powerful individuals, autonomous governments and the Department of Culture, the Osborne bulls were allowed to stay but on the condition they were completely black and that all advertising be removed. They agreed that the simple black figures had become
part of the landscape and had invaluable “cultural significance” for Spain. Osborne bulls close to Granada You’re in luck if you want to see a toro de Osborne but haven’t yet as there are generally more in southern Spain and the province of Andalusia boasts the highest number with 23 in the region. This could suggest there is perhaps some correlation between the number of these hoardings and the popularity of bull fighting. The closest to Granada is positioned 22kms on the Carretera de Guejar Sierra on the way to the Sierra Nevada.
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Winter 2010/11
Icons and Irony Some say these bulls watch over the roads of Spain and there is obvious irony in old billboards that advertised alcohol, ‘watching over’ the highways of Spain! This combined with how something so culturally valuable that started with an English foreigner, was almost lost, is just one of those quirks of fate we can all marvel at.
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Free stuff in Granada
Watching the sunset over the Alhambra from the Mirador San Nicolas, intercambios (free language exchange), tapas (each one comes free with a drink), people-watching (there is never a shortage of characters walking the streets), and of course reading Granada Insider Magazine. Another fun and totally free way to spend your day is traversing the many hiking trails that Granada has to offer. The mountains are a perfect backdrop for any outdoor excursion. If you decide to make the trip, you can catch the number 3 bus from the city centre to the central bus station and catch the bus from there. Though it isn’t completely free to get there, bus fare should only come out to about 3 Euros. As a city made up mostly of students, it’s not surprising that there are locations all over the city with free Wi-Fi. Walking down the street you’re sure to see cafes, restaurants, bars, and even hookah bars with signs advertising wireless capability for their customers. So, if you need to take a break from your adventures around Granada and check your email, you’ll be sure to find a place to do so, one of the most laid back and coolest spots is Picaro, Calle Varela. If you’re lucky someone might even be playing some musical delight on the piano.
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Whether you smoke cigarettes or not you had better expect a free lung-full of smoke when you go out to many of Granada’s bars and restaurants. But get this free second hand smoke in quick. As come January the law is expected to change and there will be no more smoking in bars or restaurants. So get ready for a healthy dose of second hand smoke (without the fun of a nicotine buzz). But hey, at least it doesn’t cost you anything. You might be surprised to hear this (but if you’ve been in Granada for longer than a day, then you shouldn’t be) that there is graffiti all over the city. Walls entirely covered with the work of the renowned El Nino de Las Pinturas can be found all over the city. All you have to do is walk out your front door and take a tour of some of the most incredible art that this city has to offer. And it doesn’t cost you a thing! Botellón: Enjoy the very Spanish phenomenon of the botellón. A social gathering of young Spanish people and Erasmus students who get together to drink for cheap before moving on to bars or clubs. A great way to save money, meet people and practice the español. In Granada you will find a weekly botellón attended by thousands at the aptly named botellóndromo a.k.a the car park of Hipercor on Calle Arabial.
If you’re looking for a dose of daily news just take a walk through Puerta Real or down Gran Vía early enough in the morning and grab a copy of 20 Minutos (should really be called something more like 6 or 7 Minutos). This free newspaper gives a very quick summary of local news in Granada.
If you still have not got your fill of free stuff, check out some of the best local classified websites, some of the best things that we have found there: Free friendship, bikes, books and more. Loqou.es and Mundoanuncios. com (the Spanish equivalents to Craigslist) are good places to start your search.
Attempting to find yourself a Spanish boyfriend or girlfriend is a sure way to pass some time and (generally) is absolutely free. Flirting in broken Spanish and the inevitable confusion that follows does not cost a thing, except maybe your dignity, which, let’s be honest, isn’t all that important anyway.
Oh did we mention Granada Insider, yep GI is still the NO.1 best free thing that you can find in Granada.
Winter 2010/11
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The Two Rivers of Granada by Derek Dohren
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any great modern cities are built around rivers - think Rome (the Tiber), Paris (the Seine) or London (the Thames); rivers whose names are synonymous with the cities they flow through. Yet though the city of Granada may not appear on anyone’s list of such great river cities it can actually boast not just one; but two waterways coursing through its heart. The Darro and the Genil straddle the great bluff of rock upon which the Alhambra Palace sits, making strikingly plain the strategic importance of this location for defending the city from marauding armies. Of the two it is perhaps the Darro that has the most colourful history. In ancient times the river was panned for gold and the Romans named it ‘Aurus’ in recognition of the traces of this precious metal regularly extracted from silt deposits. During Granada’s Islamic occupation the river was renamed ‘Hadarro’ by the new Moslem rulers only for later Christian conquerors to re-title it ‘Dauro’, a name that eventually morphed into Darro. The river’s presence, whose source is north of the city in the Sierra de Huetor, has always been highly valued. In 1238 The Nasrid Sultan Ibn alAhmar had it partially diverted and pumped uphill, some 6 kilometres, to bring to life the magnificent water features of the Alhambra and to irrigate the Generalife gardens. And yet visitors today strolling along the Paseo de los Tristes, at the foot
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of the Alhambra will see very little of this special river. What remains on view as it wends its way west, promptly disappears under a bridge and vanishes below Plaza Nueva. What happens to it and where does it go? Well, the river is still there and it still runs through the city – quite literally in fact. It flows under Reyes Catolicos, turns left at Puerta Real, and makes its way underneath the aptly named Acera del Darro before popping out just in front of the capacious Mercadona where it surrenders to the rather larger Genil. If you veer right after coming out of the supermarket and peer down over the bridge before the zebra crossing you can see the two rivers conjoin. The river was paved over in the eighteenth century in an audacious feat of civil engineering as the city grew and expanded. So it’s largely out of sight, that the Darro meanders its final dignified kilometre or so, beneath a daily procession of cars, buses and the feet of thousands of granadinos. Coming down from its source in the Sierra Nevada, the Genil is powered by spring melt water. It’s waters are dammed upstream as part of a large hydro electricity network and channelled into reservoirs supplying the city. The river level notoriously rises and falls throughout the year in accordance with these demands further upstream. Thankfully, on the night Spain won last summer’s World Cup, there was
enough water in the bed to accommodate the thousands of revellers who decided to fling themselves off the bridge at the Paseo de Salon. After picking up the Darro the river continues its journey west, via Zaidin and out of the city. It’s joined by a smaller tributary, the Monachil which also comes down from the Sierra Nevada, before succumbing itself to the huge Guadalquivir – one of Spain’s foremost rivers.
GRANADA INSIDER
Winter 2010/11
These three great rivers, the Darro, Genil and Guadalquivir form the basis of one of Federico Garcia Lorca’s famous poems:
Baladilla de los tres ríos The river Guadalquivir Flows between oranges and olives The two rivers of Granada Descend from the snow to wheat Oh my love! Who went and never returned The river Guadalquivir Has beards of maroon The two rivers of Granada One a cry, the other blood Oh my love! Who vanished into thin air For the sailboats Sevilla has a course; Through the water of Granada Only sighs are rowing
Mistakes Worth Blushing For Oh my love! Who went and never returned Guadalquivir, high tower And the wind in the orange groves Darro and Genil, little towers Dead on the ponds Oh my love! Who vanished into thin air Who will say that the water bears A vain fire of screams Oh my love Who went and never returned Carry orange blossom, carry olives, Andalucia, to your seas
Michelle Bergmann freely questions her love of Spanish
Oh my love Who vanished into thin air. El río Guadalquivir va entre naranjos y olivos. Los dos ríos de Granada bajan de la nieve al trigo. ¡Ay, amor que se fue y no vino! El río Guadalquivir tiene las barbas granates. Los dos ríos de Granada uno llanto y otro sangre ¡Ay, amor que se fué por el aire! Para los barcos de vela Sevilla tiene un camino; por el agua de Granada sólo reman los suspiros. ¡Ay, amor que se fue y no vino! Guadalquivir, alta torre y viento en los naranjales. Dauro y Genil, torrecillas muertas sobre los estanques. ¡Ay, amor que se fue por el aire! ¡Quién dirá que el agua lleva un fuego fatuo de gritos! ¡Ay, amor que se fue y no vino! Lleva azahar, lleva olivas, Andalucía, a tus mares. ¡Ay, amor que se fue por el aire!
Winter 2010/11
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f you are considering moving to a foreign country to practice it’s native language but fear the embarrassment of inevitable mistakes you may as well kiss your dream goodbye. Here is a short story of encouragement: In the apartment I stayed with Juanma and Catalina you are required to light the gas with a lighter in order to get a hot shower. A group of us, myself and some friendly Spanish folks, were enjoying ourselves at a bodeguitta. I decided to purchase a new lighter from a young man circling the bars looking to make a Euro. I grabbed one and was beyond excited to show my temporary roommate, Juanma, the very much needed prize for our survival. With eyes filled with excitement and pride, I held it out to him and instead of saying “ Lo Quieres!?” (Do you like this?!) I shouted and asked “Te Quiero!?” which as most of you may know, is most commonly used to express “I love you!?”. You can imagine the long and awkward pause proceeding the rather shocking question and confusing gesture. The bodeguitata filled with roaring laughter. People were handing each other forks, olives, whatever they could get their hands on; asking each other “Te Quiero?” “Te Quiero?”
GRANADA INSIDER
poking fun of the silly American girl. I had just made myself 5 new friends. Another memorable linguistic gaffe during my time studying Spanish here in Granada came as an unintended result from my class in the academia. I was spending 4-5 hours a day learning, breathing, and fuming Spanish. One day in class we were playing a board game in which my dice landed on the spot “Pregunta Libre”. This directly translates to “Free Question”. However, through trial in error in only being allowed to speak Spanish in the classroom, I assumed the translation was “ I have a question”. So naturally I pranced proudly around the town of Granada using my new material. In line at the grocery store...”Free question please!”... at the post office “Free question!”...shopping for shoes...”Please, free question!”. Praise the Lord a friend witnessed this mistake and after 3 painful minutes of her crying in laughter she broke the news. I have come to accept that every day I learn more and every day I have more to learn. Footnote: Don’t be afraid of a language. Embrace it, screw it up, keep practicing and screw it up again. This and being patient is the key to learning.
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Christmas in
Spain
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hristmas is a deeply religious holiday in Spain. Christmas season officially begins December 8, the feast of the Immaculate Conception. On 22nd December Spanish people never stray far from a TV or radio because of the Día de lotería de Navidad (Christmas lottery). Everybody in Spain buys tickets for this lottery in the hope of winning El Gordo (the fat one) and the winning number usually means that a good number of people from the same village become a lot better-off overnight. Besides the big three prizes there are thousands of smaller prizes shared by people all over Spain. Christmas Eve is known as Nochebuena or “the Good Night.” It is a time for family members to gather together to rejoice and feast around the Nativity scenes that are present in nearly every home. Traditional Christmas treats are Mantecados (traditional sweet made mainly from lard), polvorones (almond cakes), and turrón (candy made from almonds and honey) . After the meal, family members gather around the Christmas table and sing Christmas
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carols and hymns of Christendom using panderetas (tambourines often of wood or plastic, with pairs of small metal jingles). The rejoicing continues through the wee hours of the morning. An old Spanish song says...
“Esta noche es Nochebuena y mañana es Navidad, saca la bota, María, que me voy a emborrachar Ande, ande, ande la marimorena, ande, ande, ande que es la Nochebuena.” December 28 is the feast of the “Santos Inocentes” (April Fools’ Day). Spanish people celebrate this day playing “inocentadas” (practical jokes). There are many different ways to celebrate New Year’s Eve, or Nochevieja which means ‘The Old Night’ in Spain, but there is just one tradition which everyone takes part in. If you want to be part of this custom you must buy 12 grapes and be ready to eat them when
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the clock strikes midnight. If you can eat one grape per chime you can look forward to a year of happiness and luck. Spanish people usually eat the 12 grapes at home with their families or go to one of the main city squares. The night of January 5th the Wise Kings (Los reyes magos) go into the homes of all children leaving their gifts. The children of Spain receive gifts on this night. The Kings are particularly revered in Spain. They are called Melchior, Gaspar and Balthazar. It is believed that they travel through the countryside reenacting their journey to Bethlehem every year at this time. Children leave their shoes filled with straw or barley for the tired camels that must carry their riders through the busy night. By morning the camel food is gone and in place of the straw or barley are presents. Shoes may also be placed on balconies on this night in order to the Wise Men will fill them with gifts. “The legend of the “Tres Reyes Magos” tells of the three Wise kings traveling through the country on their way to Bethlehem. To properly receive them, the children fill their shoes with straw on Epiphany Eve. For their efforts, they find their shoes filled with presents the following (Epiphany) morning. Spanish children have a great fondness for the three Wise men, especially Balthazar”.
Winter 2010/11
Adjusting to
the Spanish
timetable Linda Burridge
There are lots of things about Spain that make this culture unique but one that immediately affects visitors and ex-pats is the horario del día or daily timetable. The origin of this unique schedule of long lunches, afternoon naps and late evenings, like most things, is grounded in sheer common sense. Spain is a hot country and to ensure rural workers were as efficient as possible, they escaped the harsh midday sun and rested so they could continue working until the evening. This in turn became an important part of Spanish life and is also present in Latin America and other parts of Spain where the climate is not as harsh. A long lunch was a chance to go home, catch up with family and share a large meal together. Then post-rest, you completed the rest of your work until 7 or 8pm and then socialised in the evening usually at least until 12 midnight. Benefits and disadvantages The benefits of this approach are obvious and I am sure everyone loves the idea of a long family lunch and a rest. And this is perhaps one characteristic of the culture that has cemented the importance of family here in Spain. There are also many health benefits from eating your main meal in the middle of the day and no one can argue that a power nap is bad for you. But is this changing in the bigger cities? It appears siestas are definitely more instilled in southern Spain. In the large cities in northern Spain it’s fairly unusual for office workers to sleep during the day.
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One worker commented, “I work in a doctor’s surgery in Madrid and as I travel to work, I don’t go home for lunch. I can take 3 hours for lunch but I usually just take 1 and then I keep working until about 7pm. It’s a long day!” Stronger in the south Smaller towns and villages in southern Spain respect this tradition and most local trade in Granada halts for siesta but it does make it hard for workers that need to complete their own errands. One local business woman agrees the timetable can be tricky, “When I am not working, everything is closed which means it’s really hard for me to get to the bank or have my haircut.” This timetable also means it is common to see entire families - young children, adults and people in the 60s and 70s - in cafes and restaurants well beyond midnight. Again they are making the most of the cooler hours but it’s certainly an unusual sight for a foreigner to see a group of 4-year-old children playing in the plaza at 11pm when they themselves are getting drowsy and are ready for bed. For travellers that can’t keep up with toddlers If you find yourself struggling with the Spanish schedule try to adapt, otherwise you most likely will miss out on the real Spanish experience. Our advice is don’t try to fight it! Get up early and make the most of the reasonably priced strong coffee here and enjoy the famed siesta. You’ll need it for stamina so you can at least stay out as long as the local niños!
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Did you know? The word siesta comes from ‘hora sexta’ or the sixth hour from dawn i.e. midday when some originally started their break. Siestas are not limited to Spain and you probably know that many other Mediterranean countries have a rest after lunch as well. This is also common in many Middle Eastern and Asian countries where people can’t work during the hot afternoons. In Bangladesh they have a ‘bhat-gum’ or rice-sleep after their main meal. Siestas are less popular in the larger cities of Spain such as Madrid and Barcelona but the usual business hours remain. Many office workers don’t finish until 7 or 8pm but still stay up late into the evening. As a result, it is estimated that the Spanish sleep one hour less than other Europeans. We knew there was a reason why the coffee is so strong here!
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The Winter Wonderland of
Sierra Nevada
How to get there: You can travel by car up the Carretera de Sierra Nevada, which is roughly 45 min drive from Granada and you will find a large covered public car park available upon arrival in the resort. By bus, you can avail of the bus service from the main bus station in Granada (el estacion del autobus). Two buses depart each morning at 8am and 10am and take approximately an hour to arrive at the slopes. The return busses depart the Sierra at 4pm and 6pm.
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Patronato de Turismo, Granada
T
Patronato de Turismo, Granada
Rest assured, once you´ve made your way up the mountains there will be plenty to be enjoyed – snow, fun, and most importantly food! There are plenty of restaurants in the village of the Sierra that will satisfy any craving you have after a long day of hitting the slopes and don´t miss out on that typical après-ski atmosphere by enjoying a cold beer or a warm hot chocolate on one of the sun terraces with views overlooking the whole of Granada province.
Patronato de Turismo, Granada
he diversity of terrain in the Granada Province, with snow-capped mountains to one side and tropical beaches to the other, leaves little mystery as to why so many tourists flock to this corner of Spain. But in light of the sudden change of season, my focus today isn´t on the sun-drenched costa tropical, but on the freshly powdered peaks of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Known throughout Europe for 79 slopes and over 84 skiable kilometers of piste, this ski-resort is a magnet for visitors from all over the globe. During the winter season, some of the most represented countries in this snow-capped paradise are: the U.K., the U.S., France, Portugal, and Australia. One of the many beautiful things about these pristine mountains is the availability of slopes for everyone, regardless of how well he or she might ski. Not quite ready for the beast that is Mulhacén, the highest peak in continental Spain and the Iberian Peninsula? Borreguiles and Lomo Dilar offer an easier alternative geared towards beginners. In total there are 8 green slopes (very easy), 33 blue slopes (lower intermediate) and 34 red (advanced) and black (difficult) slopes. Now that the season has started and should continue until the snow-cover lifts in May.
If you are looking for English speaking ski or snowboard classes or equipment rental your best option is the British Ski Centre. Patronato de Turismo, Granada
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www.britishskicenter.co.uk
Winter 2010/11
The Rain in Spain Getting soaked with Derek Dohren
I
readily admit to an obsession with the weather. I am after all, British. In fact I was almost as amused as my language students were to hear them snigger during one class I gave which was based rather sadly around meteorological matters. They found it funny that their English teacher ticked all the boxes when it came to this unfortunate national stereotype. In turn I was oddly proud to be the one confirming that very thing to them. I must be honest with myself though: it may have been okay to talk about the fact that we have a lot of rain in the UK, but clearly it was not cool to wax lyrical over the various types of rainfall one may experience on a hike across Striding Edge in the Lake District during the month of April. Thing is, I just can’t help myself. Hopefully you’ll understand me when I say I did not assume spectacular things of the weather here in Granada when I arrived in the new year. Sure, I knew it would be hot in the summer and I guessed things would be cooler in winter, but it wasn’t until I rather foolishly traipsed to the shops one cold day in February, without a hat or umbrella, that I learned how much I had misjudged the situation.
That walk back from the shops resulted in me looking like a snowman by the time I reached my apartment. In truth, the Granada weather and I have never really got on with each other since. This year we’ve also had rain, sleet, hail and of course plenty of very hot sunshine. Wind, too, seems to be a player here and I recall one night during the World Cup when a mini tornado whipped through the pueblos around La Zubia and laid waste to a bus shelter and several trees. Yep, I take it all back Granada - the weather here does indeed have its moments and frankly, I had not expected there to be so much of it about. All the more reason you’d think for me to be cautious when taking my art students out to paint landscapes along the río Genil. Well, you’d think so wouldn’t you? The problem is the weather forecasts here are not the greatest and the city being so close to the mountains throws in a degree of uncertainty at the best of times. So, like most people I look out of the window each morning and I take it from there. Hence last week my trio of earnest landscape painters and myself were exposed to what can only be described as a deluge of Noah’s ark proportions.
Winter 2010/11
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My attempts to laugh it off (ignore it, it’s only a shower...) were a bit limp, as were the canvasses, brushes and students within minutes. Funds don’t yet run to full wet weather gear, parasols, wind breaks, fleeces or sun hats, so if you come out on one of my excursions you have to make your own arrangements to cope with the elements (it says so in the small print). No matter though. In the end the shared trauma welded us into a tightly knit group and I like to think the standard of work produced showed a higher than usual quality. In addition, a rain spattered canvas shows the world your commitment to your art doesn’t it? No pain, no gain as they say and a little bit of deluge and local flooding isn’t going to stop us. It made a change from being fried and boiled. Bring on the winter and do your worst. We shall not be moved. It all reminds me of the time I got very wet up the Trossachs, but as they say, that’s another story. Derek Dohren runs painting classes in Granada and is available for portrait commissions.
Visit his website at www.derekdohren.com
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Classifieds //
The Best Property Value and Home Improvements in Granada Apartments and houses to rent from just €450 Apartments for sale starting at €80.000 Be sure to consult our web site at
www.velezcasas.es or for renovations www.reformas-granada.es (specialising in fine wood carpentry, built in wardrobes, kitchens etc.)
We pride ourselves on our customer care and we aim to cater to you needs, so give us a call on: 958 224 036 (Spanish) / 650 198 757 (English) Or pop in to have a chat:
Paseo de la Bomba, 16. Granada Useful Information
Selling Something – Reach Granada´s English speaking Population, Call us on 958260334 or email info@granadainsider. com or check us out online at www.granadainsider.com Honorary British Consulate in Granada: Daily opening hours: 958 283 154, or in emergencies 669 895 053. Embassy website is: www.ukinspain.com Art lesson for beginners! Leave Granada with your own original artwork. Two classes, conducted in English, all materials provided, painting in acrylics plus free drink and tapa. Contact Derek for details on 673529800 or via email derekdohren@googlemail.com Jobs Granada Insider, we are currently looking for event organisers, promotion staff, salespeople and writers. English a must, Spanish a bonus. Send your CV and the type of work you are interested in to info@granadainsider.com Accomodation: Casa Ángela, We offer the best value accommodation in the centre of Granada. Short and Long Term rates available. Friendly international atmosphere. Contact Pepe on 622422473
Translation: Natasha Phillips: Freelance translator (Spanish to English) Literary and journalistic texts. Native English speaker, well-qualified (first class honours degree in Spanish with translation and advanced translation studies), resident in Granada. Knowledge of Catalan. granadaenglish@hotmail.es
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English photographer in Granada, Andalucia. Freelance photographer covering Andalucia and specialising in: * Model portfolios * Weddings * Commercial marketing * Promotional images * Event Coverage * Sport
www.pixology.org 0034 608 436 871
Bus station Estacion De Autobuses Estaciones De Autobuses Ctra. Jaén, S/N 18014 Granada For more information go to www.alsa.es Train Estacion De Granada Estacion De Trenes Av. Andaluces, S/N 18014 Granada For more information go to www.renfe.es National Police: 091 Emergency: 112 Firemen: 080 ( Granada metropolitan area) Police Office: Comisaría de Policía de Granada - Centro Calle Campos 3, 18009, Granada (Granada) Tel : 958 808 502 Tourist Office Plaza de Mariana Pineda 10 bajo, tel. 958247146, www.turismodegranada.org Swimming pool Campus universitario de fuentenueva, Avenida Severo Ochoa S/N (paseo universitario) Monday - Friday 8am-10pm, last entrance 9pm Saturday 9am-6:30 pm, last entrance 5:30 pm Prices : students €3 ; non students €4
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Removals Commercial & Domestic Cleaning
Airport Pick Up/Drop Off Painting, Decorating & Refurbishment
Car Valeting
A2 Z
SERVICES
Property Management & Maintenance
Miles McCarthy 692 191 768
Drain/Pipe Unblocking
a2z.servicios@yahoo.com
Winter 2010/11
Classifieds // SHORT TERM APARTMENT RENTAL Acera del Darro, opp Hotel Dauro. Sleeps up to 5 people Quiet, comfortable and convenient! Fr. €40 per night, depending on season. Monthly rates available.
Answers to quiz on page 8 1. Madrid (Alcobendas to be exact) 2. The fantastic Vicky, Christina, Barcelona 3. Not an actress, but a teacher. 4. In 1992 he starred alongside her in Jamon Jamon 5. It is the Coen Brother’s No country for old men. 6. We are not sure of an exact number, but we believe it to be many millions if not in the billions.
Weekend country retreat too!
Call Maria on 958 788268/651 041666 aranlecrin@yahoo.es
Looking to sell a bike, rent your apartment, offering private language classes or anything else that you might be bought, sold or rented. Get your details into Insider classfieds. Simply send in the details that you would like advertised to info@granadainsider.com
Skiing in The Sierra Nevada
Bus leaves from the Estacion de Autobus daily at 8am. Ski Pass (forfait) 1 day adult pass: €35 (low season), €39.50 (mid), €42.50 (high), discounts for children and OAP. For equipment rental and ski-school contact the British Ski Center. 958 484481 / 670461330 (Mon-Fri 10:00 – 13:00) info@britishskicenter.co.uk www.britishskicenter.co.uk Tennis courts Campus Universitario Fuentenueva, Avenida Severo Ochoa, S/N (paseo universitario) Tennis Courts, reservation by the hour in the sports office, Tel: 958 240 956 – 243 144. Opening hours : 9am – 2pm ; 3 pm – 8 pm, except holidays Price : €4.50 for students ; €5 for non students All other sports http://www.ugr.es/~sdugr/
Winter 2010/11
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Competition 1 The Granada Insider Christmas “Gordo�
WIN
5 Prizes for 5 different winners, so if you are not in you cannot win, if you are in, you’re looking good.
Jamie does‌ (New Jamie Oliver cookbook featuring his travels and recipes from Marrakech, Athens, Venice, Stockholm, the Midi-PyrĂŠnĂŠes and AndalucĂa) Kindly sponsored by Metro Bookshop. Spanish Bull Statuettes kindly sponsored by Osborne Sherry & Brandy Organic Award winning wine sponsored by Cortijo el Anchuron
WIN
The competition. We want you to tell us what has been your favourite experience of Granada in 2010. Be it Humorous, serious, emotional or otherwise, keep it under 50 words and get it in to us. How to enter: submit your anecdote by joining us on facebook (Granada insider group) and leave it as a message on our wall. Or you can simply email it to us at info@granadainsider.com
Competition closes December 17th
Competition 2
Get rid of the January Blues, start 2011 on a winning streak!! 10 prizes for 10 different winners Jamie does‌ (New Jamie Oliver cookbook featuring his travels and recipes from Marrakech, Athens, Venice, Stockholm, the Midi-PyrĂŠnĂŠes and AndalucĂa) Kindly sponsored by Metro Bookshop. Spanish Bull Statuettes kindly sponsored by Osborne Sherry & Brandy Organic Award winning wine sponsored by Cortijo el Anchuron More great prizes to follow, check our website or facebook group for the fantastic prize details. The competition. We want you to tell us what you want to see more of in the pages of Granada Insider in 2011, topics that we have covered before, or something new altogether. It can be cultural, entertaining or even wildly outrageous, we are here to make Granada better for you.
WIN
How to enter: submit your suggestion by joining us on facebook (Granada Insider group) and leave it as a message on our wall. Or you can simply email it to us at info@granadainsider.com
Competition closes: January 31st
Vinos tranquilos, energĂas limpias
www.anchuron.es www.granadainsider.com the most useful website in Granada We offer Latest News / Full Listings (Live Music, Nightlife, Theatre, Sport and Culture) / Food / Free Classified Ads. Coming soon: Community, this will be a fully interactive forum open to debate anything you wish to discuss about Granada. If social media is your thing, you can also keep up to date by following us on twitter @GranadaInsider, our facebook group, or even check out some of our video clips on YouTube.