Delmarva Unleashed MarApril 2011

Vol. 3 Issue 2 - March/April 2011

Unleashed ™

Hold Me Back!

Put A Smile Back On That Face

Unintended Consequences

contents

Delmarva Unleashed A Supplement of Grand Living Magazine

Vol. 3 Issue 2- March/April 2011

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Put A Smile Back On That Face

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Peninsula Animal Hospital & Orthopedics

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Hold Me Back

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Unintended Consequences

Publisher Sandy Phillips Associate Publisher Farin Phillips Editor Lou Ann Hill Creative Sandy Phillips Farin Phillips Contributing Writers Stephen Frolich John Maniatty, V.M.D. Grand Living Main Office Advertising Info: (410)726-7334 Cover Satin, the loveable companion of Betsy Varble of Whitesville, MD., loves flowers.

10 Delmarva Pets

Over the Rainbow Bridge.....

Chance Nov. 12,1998 Jan. 2, 2011 Family Dog Protector Child Entertainer Faithful Companion Muddy Paws Tennis Balls Frisbees Total Fetchaholic Arby’s Roast Beef Fries GLM Family Member Sadly Missed 2

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Put A Smile Back On That Face John Maniatty, V.M.D.

S

o many times as a vet, I here that Fluffy is starting to eat less, staying away and we think she has some type of disease.

Many times that disease is dental disease. The majority of dogs, (80%), and cats, (70%), are diagnosed with some type of periodontal disease by 2 years of age. Periodontal disease entails infections that attack the gums, the fibers that attach the tooth to the gums, the fibers that attach the tooth to the bone, and in the most severe cases, the bone itself. Early periodontal disease detection often lacks outward clinical signs since it is not too painful. As the infection continues to grow, it penetrates further into the tissue, around the tooth, and possibly the tooth itself. As this occurs, we start to see outward clinical signs due to the discomfort, such as not eating hard food or treats, bad breath, pawing at the mouth or rubbing face against the floor or furniture.

Other signs include hiding, not playing with favorite toys or not chewing on chew toys, and not drinking cold water. If you see one of these signs, then you should have your pet seen by your local veterinarian.

Your veterinarian will do a complete physical exam. The oral exam portion of the physical may allow them to probe the teeth and pinpoint the damaged tooth/teeth. Further diagnostics may be needed, such as dental radiographs. By doing this, your vet can help determine how progressive the disease is and which teeth may need to be removed, and if other specialty treatments to save the teeth can be done. Sometimes you may be refered to a dental veterinary specialist for these treatments. Dental veterinary specialist do things such as root canals, cap teeth, and make implants to move the teeth to more desired positions.

Besides the teeth being affected by this bacterial infection, there are strong indicators that this infection can become systemic and affect the kidneys, liver, heart and lungs. The physical exam will check the heart and lungs, but prior to any dentistry, it is strongly recommended to have preoperative blood work done to assess the liver and kidney functions.

Any dentistry is best performed under general anesthesia. If your dog is exceptionally good and has a medical condition that may preclude them from being able to go under anesthesia, then hand scaling awake may be attempted even though this is not the best medicine. Once under general anesthesia, each tooth is probed checking for loose teeth or pockets. If necessary, any teeth that are bad are removed. This can be quite difficult because some are multirooted and one root could be abscessed, but the other roots are fine. The tooth can be cut with a dental drill and each root removed using a dental elevator. The sockets are then flushed and flaps are made from the gingiva to close over the socket, which is now filled with a blood clot to aid in the healing process. Once the extractions are done, the remaining teeth have the calculus/tartar chipped off, and hand scaling below the gum line is preformed. An ultrasonic scaler is used to remove the remaining calculus on the teeth and then the teeth are polished. The patient is monitored through recovery and sent home with pain medication and follow-up antibiotics if needed.

In post dentistry, brushing the teeth, if possible, is recommended. If not there is water additives that will help prevent or at least slow calculus build up. When choosing a water additive, consult your regular veterinarian because many are on the market but few have been actually clinically tested and proven.

They can help you choose the right one for you. Also, dental chew treats can be used to help clean the teeth, and some even have chlorhexidine in them, which will help fight oral bacteria.

It is preferable these chews not be swallowed, as raw hide can upset a pet’s stomach or become an obstruction. Once the chew is soft, take it and replace it with a hard one. The soft one can be left to dry and will reharden, and able to be used again.

As the old adage goes, “Prevention is the best medicine.� If you take care of the teeth before it becomes a problem, your pet can be saved a lot of discomfort. People are always amazed at how much better their pet feels post dentistry. They never realized how miserable their mouth made them feel, and they are so happy to have their furry friend smiling again.

Dr. John Maniatty is a board-certified veterinarian in practice at the Ocean City Animal Hospital, Ocean City, MD.

Peninsula Animal Hospital & Orthopedics

by Sandy Phillips

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Lexi, gets an x-ray of her knee for a better evaluation of a limp.

here was such a time on the lower shore, when you had to travel to the western shore or Wilmington for veterinary orthopedic care. The recovery from a leg or hip fracture meant many trips and sometimes an overnight hotel stay, if reconstructive surgery for your pet required them a hospital stay.

Times have changed, Delmarva now has the technology and talent to treat most orthopedic challenges right here at home.

Dr. Frances Haberstroh, M.S. V.M.D., Diplomate of the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners,1997 graduate of the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine and an Eastern Shore native, has focused her continuing education on the orthopedic specialty for the last fourteen years. Now owner of Peninsula Animal Hospital and

Did you know that Animal Control has many great adoptable dogs?

Your new friend is waiting!

Worcester County Animal Control

6207 Timmons Road Snow Hill, MD

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Orthopedics in Delmar, Dr. Haberstroh focuses her practice on orthopedic procedures in additiona to general veterinary medicine and surgical care. Having been limited in the past to simple procedures, technology has opened many doors to cats and dogs for fractures of many kinds. New diagnostic equipment and surgical tools have made it possible for even some car accident victims to regain a better quality of life post surgery.

“There have been so many advancements in veterinary medicine. We can do so much more for our pets in today’s world”, says Haberstroh. “I have completed almost 100 tibial tuberosity advancements, a procedure that repairs a torn ACL, since 2007, and have seen great improvement in many dogs. Often the older version of the repair left the dogs with large blocky arthritic knees. With today’s procedure, I see much less arthritis and the dogs regain better activity levels with excellent long term results.”

There are now metal plates that can be used for the repair of pelvic fractures and other complicated breaks. Stem cell therapy is also available for dogs that are not surgical candidates for a variety of reasons.

Broken bones can be life changing for both humans and animals. It’s comforting to know that we have such advanced capabilities here on the shore and that there are options for better outcomes when tragedy strikes. Keep in mind that orthopedics are not just for trauma, but can often improve the quality of life when congenital structural problems, like hip dysplasia and patella luxations are discovered.

Hold Me Back!

by Stephen Frolich

Bryan & Brittingham, Inc.

Your Full Service Feed & Hardware Store Bi-State Blvd. - Delmar, DE www.bryanandbrittingham.com

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e've all seen them walking down the street... that spectacular battle of will between dog and owner.

The dog wants one thing, the owner wants the other. Arms are being wanked out, knees are locked, feet going thump, thump, thump down the pavement, as one teeters on a majorly embarrassing face plant in front of the whole neighborhood.

It's a matter of perspective if you are the “puller or pull-ee.�

Regardless, the fact remains the two of you are not working together on the same team, and YOUR dog is pulling YOU all over.

Pulling is one of the most common behavior problems owners face with their dog. That's why learning how to walk on a leash is one of the first and most basic commands we all learn when we get a dog. It is also one of the first ones we abandon as the weeks turn into months, and months turn into years.

Three big elements can lead to problem pulling: 1.Using the wrong type of lead/leash 2.Harnesses 3.YOU (admit it!)

As your dog's leader, you need to address each one individually, so when collectively used, you can gain the physical and mental advantage.

Variable Variations: Oh! That wonderful retractable lead/ leash with the comfy handle, poop-bag holder and flashlight sure do make YOUR life convenient, but it is probably one of the three biggest elements leading to your pulling problem. Retractable leads, expandable leads, and bungi leads encourage the bad habit of pulling, because the dog is always trying to gain one more inch, then another, and one more after that. With a variable lead, they never learn to STOP pulling. In addition, retractable leads eliminates your ability for instantaneous correction. Proper training requires quick verbal and physical correction for when your dog is pulling or jumping. But with a variable lead, much of your energy is lost through the tiny 1/8 inch line or as that elastic cord stretches.

Leads that E -X -P -A -N -D are designed to absorb energy when the dog pulls, but the same occurs when you pull, too. Not to mention it is practically impossible to grab that teeny tiny black cord with your free hand for additional leverage.

Continued page 6

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410-632-1340

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410-749-7603

Cats, dogs, and ferrets, 3 months and older are required to be vaccinated

Call for Spring Clinic Dates and Locations www.grandlivingmag.com

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Continued from page 5

Harness Horrors: The second biggest contributing factor causing pulling is a harness. Plain and simple, harness’ are used FOR PULLING, not more control. Throughout history, man has used a harness on cattle, people, and dogs to give them the additional leverage to lean forward… and PULL! So, unless you're training your Bischon, Boxer or Basset for the Iditerod Trail Sled Dog Race, any harness that clips on the back will make your dog pull harder.

Alpha You Ain't: The third and most important element to stopping pulling…is YOU. Do you make excuses for the pulling and jumping? Does the dog yank you out the door? Are you constantly apologizing when guests come and visit? Do you find that walking the dog is more of a dreaded task then an enjoyable bonding experience with your best friend?

Sadly, it's time to look in the mirror and honestly examine if YOU need to refresh your training as well.

Now that we have isolated the three more common elements to pulling, let's examine the tools YOU need to regain your rightful role in the pack as the “Alpha Wolf:” 1. Appropriate equipment, leashes, collars and harnesses 2. Training exercises 3. Proper body positioning 4. Consistency

A four to six foot lead/leash is the perfect distance to control your tiny draft horse dog, and it can be made from natural to synthetic material with all kinds of fancy features, like padded handles, multiple adjustment points, and reflective material. But essentially if you got a piece of old rope lying around... Ta-Da you have a lead! More importantly, you "the Alpha," have a way of controlling and correcting your dog. This is why most basic training classes start with a static fixed lead. Regardless, if it's made of leather, nylon, or a chain, static leads have a pre-determined length. This may seem fairly obvious, but to your dog, it is a psychological set distance he/she knows they can travel. Your pup is cute, but not stupid, and they know when they reach the end of the rope…that's it! So, dig out that old lead, from the back of the coat closet, the one you first used in your new puppy training class, and return to the basics!

Collar Contact: There's a reason why we put collars on dogs, other than identification. The neck of most animals (yourself included) have sensitive nerves and limited muscle strength, and if you have ever been given the Mr. Spock Vulcan Neck pinch, you understand. However, a pulling dog can be so focused on chasing that squirrel or following the next delicious smell, that they mentally ignore or do not acknowledge your corrections. So it's time to power up the signal!

Let's be clear: NO collar alone can train your dog. A properly fitted collar is a tool to use as a Secondary signal supporting your Primary verbal commands, praise, and corrections with training.

When fitted high up on the neck (close to the ears), this signal can be very affective. The best way to enhance your training Leashes/ Leads: corrections is with a cinching mechanism. Instinctively, we refer It's helpful not to think of a leash as a fashion statement, but to these as "choke collars," like we call all facial tissue Kleenex®. more of a electrical power cable, where signals are transmitted But choking is the last thing you want to do. A true choke collar back and forth between dog and owner. Just as with telephone actually has the ability to crush and damage your dog's trachea, wires, certain materials transmit more effectively than others. cut into the skin, and literally choke your dog to death. A choke A lead (often known as a leash) is perhaps one of the most collar should NEVER-EVER be used on puppies! vital and physical tools any dog owner can use to correct pullOn the other hand, cinching mechanisms such as a Martingales, ing. Coupled with a proper collar (see below) you have a very Limited Slip Collars, and Prong Collars are designed to constrict powerful combination. But if you go into any pet store or bouaround your dog's neck but not damage the neck or trachea with tique, and you can easily be overwhelmed by all the different their built-in limiters. Even the freakish Prong Collar, with its types of leads, not to mention all the materials and colors. You impressive arsenal of "spikes," can be safer than a choke collar already know not all of them help with pulling (i.e. retractbecause of a set limiter. Pinch Collars are wonderful for aggresables), so let's take a look at the more effective leash/collar/ sive pullers or dogs with exceptionally thick fur. The "prongs" are harness to give you a physical advantage. able to penetrate though the fur and dense undercoat to transmit your correction to the neck. But not all Prong collars are created equal. Less expenSalisbury’s Premier r ie s a E sive versions have sharper edges or use low There Areh the Dog. Self Service Dog Wash quality materials which may distort, bend or as Ways to W break, and that WILL be painful. So, invest in your pet and buy a good leash...not the cheapest one.

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Stephen Frolich is the owner of “Tails n Tubs” in Salisbury, MD. He will be happy to help you select the correct type of restraint for your dog. Look for Part 2 of “Hold Me Back” in the May/June issue of Delmarva Unleashed.

Proper Vaccination Records Required

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Unintended

Consequences First in a four part series.

by Sandy Phillips

D

id you know that the Mid-Atlantic states were free from raccoon rabies until the late 1970’s, when a small group of coon hunters unknowingly brought the virus to West Virginia? They simply thought they were relocating, what appeared to be healthy animals, to increase the number of raccoons to hunt. The disease then spread east and southward, and it arrived on the Eastern Shore in the late 1980’s and early 1990’s, where it has remained.

Rabies is now endemic here on the Eastern Shore, and epidemic in some counties. It is a disease of the brain and spinal cord that is caused by a virus, and it’s nearly always fatal. Rabies in humans is very rare in the United States, but rabies in certain animals, especially wildlife, is common in many parts of the country. In 2010, 354 cases were confirmed in the state of Maryland; 217 of those cases were identified in raccoons, 83 on Maryland’s Eastern Shore. Those masked bandits are not the only threat to your pets. Cases have been confirmed in fox, skunks, groundhogs, cows and in 17 cats in 2010.

The rabies virus is typically transmitted to humans or pets via a bite from an infected animal. Less commonly, although very possible, is transmission from contact with infected saliva, which enters an open cut or gets in the eyes, nose or mouth of a person or animal. Vaccination is the best protection for your pet. It’s also required by law.

What if your pet comes in contact with an infected animal?

What if you don’t know it came in contact with that animal?

Do you really know what goes on in your yard while you are at work?

Animal Control, or your local health department can offer many seemingly fantastic tales of pets that have tangled with wildlife traversing the property when their owners aren’t home. A rabid raccoon can scale a chain-link fence in just seconds, and your pet is faced with defending itself. If your pet is protected with a vaccine, maybe only a booster will be required to offer it additional protection from the disease, and a short period of observation. If your pet is not protected, the consequences can be dire.

It is the job of local health agencies to protect the general public.

If a potentially infected animal is loose, there is a greater risk of human contact and infection. The un-vaccinated pet will face a very strict quarantine or even euthanasia. There is no debate...get them vaccinated! Don’t wait for “What if ?”

What about your house cat?

Is the kitty that never goes outside really all that safe in the house? What if kitty is exposed to the dog that was exposed while out in the neighborhood? Again, what if you don’t know the dog was exposed? Do you really know what comes and goes through you pet door? I heard the story of a feral cat that was being fed on the porch. Eventually, it was so comfortable with the www.grandlivingmag.com

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home and family that it simply invited itself in via the doggie door. Sadly, that healthy looking cat was infected. It not only exposed the family pets and indoor kitties, but the humans as well. Since all the pets were vaccinated, only boosters were required, and the humans can now say they’ve had their shots.

But this situation could have been much more grim without vaccinations. Particularly since the kitty was apparently in and out many times during the night without anyone aware. It was caught in the house simply by chance.

Like so many poorly understood diseases in our world, we can live healthy lives in a rabies-infected area, but protection is key.

What can you do?

Get your pet vaccinated. Your vet will make this part of your pet’s routine medical care. If you are looking to save a few dollars, visit one of the local rabies clinics. The vaccinations there are less expensive because they are subsidized by the counties in which they are offered. Here you can stretch your tax dollars a little further. Remember, the booster shots are very important, be sure to go back and get those additional vaccines at the recommended times. Many rabies clinics offer magnetic reminders that will keep you on track, and easily adhere to your refrigerator, so your pets maintain as much protection as possible throughout it’s life.

Reduce the possibility of exposure.

Don’t feed the wildlife! Don’t leave your garbage out for transient animals looking for a quick meal. Feed pets indoors, but if you must feed outdoors, do not leave food out overnight, and clean up any spillage. Infected animals can appear quite healthy in the early stages, but are capable of transmitting the disease and exposing your pets and family during that time.

If you see an animal acting strangely, call your local county Animal Control or law enforcement so they can investigate. Be sure to make the call if a person or pet is bitten, or if contact or an attack is probable, so the offending animal can be evaluated and obtained for rabies testing, if necessary. Again, if your pet is current on shots, it may just be a formality. Your responsibility is to protect your family... furry members too!

Every day your pet is not vaccinated to protect it from rabies could be the day they are exposed, to that otherwise healthy looking animal that is not yet showing outward signs of the disease, then what?

With the growing number or rabies cases on the shore, Delmarva Unleashed will offer this series over the next four issues. There is much to learn about this disease. Please share this material with your friends and family. We don’t want you or your pets to become a statistic.

The Wicomico County Humane Society Presents...

17th Annual Cause for Paws Saturday May 7

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food craft vendors contests demonstrations live remote from Cat Country Radio Walk with your friends Form a team at work Form a team with your family Collect donations Walk with or without a pet

10-2 at Winterplace Park

Pledge sheets will be available at the shelter by March 31 or online at www.wicomicohumane.org

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Help support 1000’s of animals that come through our door every year!

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$100 gift card to Olive Garden for the top team $50 gift card to Olive Garden for most creative team t-shirt

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For more information contact the Wicomico County Humane Society 8

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Rabies Facts

Fact: American Veterinary Association recommends, and Maryland law requires, that cats, dogs and ferrets have a rabies vaccination as early as 4 months of age, and again at one year. Thereafter, the frequency is determined by the type of vaccine used, usually one to three years. It’s even more important to be sure your pet has the booster shot that offers multi year protection, because protection gradually declines over time. The second shot, given at one year, boosts that protection higher, so decline is stretched over a longer time period. Should your pet be exposed, veterinary professionals recommend and Maryland law requires, another booster, so that the pet’s ability to fight the infection remains high.

Lesser known fact: In some counties, if you are feeding a transient animal, for as little as two weeks, you are responsible for that animals rabies protection. The law is a little different in each county. Contact your local health department for more in your area or simply don’t feed the cute little kitty that comes around the porch if you don’t want to be its legal guardian.

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