The Pantry
The Golden Apron Page 12
The newspaper of The Pipe and Glass Inn | Spring – Summer 2014
Meet the producer
Meet the producer | page 7
The winner of the Golden Apron 2014, the search for Yorkshire's best young chef, was 14-year-old Georgie Smithson-Brown from Great Hatfield, near Hornsea, seen here with James.
Chocs away – indulge your sweet tooth | page 8
See page 12 for more.
Onto a winner Yet another award has recently taken up residence in the Pipe and Glass’s trophy cabinet – this time specifically for James. He was named as one of this year’s NRB Top 50 Best Northern Operators at the Northern Restaurant and Bar 2014 show, the largest hospitality trade show outside London, held in Manchester in March. The prestigious list highlights the most important
and influential individuals within the hospitality industry in the north. Previous NRB Top 50 lists have included chefs Simon Rogan, Nigel Haworth, Terry Laybourne and Andrew Pern.
ential people in hospitality in the region, especially in a list that also includes such amazing people.”
Seasonal recipes | page 14
In January, the Pipe and Glass was named as fourth best gastropub in the UK in another top 50 – the Budweiser Budvar/ Morning Advertiser Top 50 Gastropub Awards.
“ It means a lot to
James said: “I was born, grew up and trained in the north, and have spent most of my professional life here. It means a lot to me to be named as one of the most influ-
me to be named as one of the most influential people in hospitality in the region
„
The top three were all in the south – so the Pipe and Glass is offically the highest placed gastropub in the north!
Yorkshire's favourite – the gooseberry | page 10
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2014
The dreamy spire of South Dalton
S t Mary's under construction, c1860. The remains of the medieval church it replaced can be seen to the left.
Less than three per cent of all the UK’s listed buildings are designated as Grade I, or of exceptional, possibly international, interest and importance. But one of them is just a stone’s throw from The Pipe and Glass: the exquisite St Mary’s Church, with its breathtakingly elegant spire.
The church was built between 1858 and 1861, replacing an old medieval church nearby, at the behest of the third Lord Hotham. Built in the Gothic Revival style, its architect was John Loughborough Pearson, the son of a Durham family who began his career in that city articled to the fabulously-named Ignatius Bonomi, a man whose speciality – religious architecture – influenced the future direction of Pearson’s career.
Pearson later moved to London to become a pupil of Philip Hardwick, the architect of the Euston Arch and Lincoln’s Inn, and designed churches in the city including St Peter’s, Vauxhall, and Holy Trinity, Westminster; his most famous work is probably Truro Cathedral in Cornwall. Pearson lived in London for most of his life – a blue plaque still marks his home at 13 Mansfield Street, Westminster, later the home of yet another famous architect, Sir Edwin Landseer Lutyens. But he had a strong association www.thepantryonline.co.uk
with East Yorkshire, both through his work on St Mary’s, and on ‘the Sykes churches’ – a set of churches built, rebuilt or restored in the 19th century by the Sykes family of Sledmere House. Work on the 11 churches was started by the fourth Baronet, Sir Tatton Sykes (17721863) and continued by his son – the fifth Baronet, of the same name (1826-1913).
It’s reckoned that the cost of building St Mary’s was some £25,000 – around £2.52m in today’s money. Compare that with the cost of another of Pearson’s churches, St Peter’s in Vauxhall, London – built in 1863-4,
it cost £8,000 to build (just over £860,000 today) – and it’s clear that no expense was spared to give the people of South Dalton the church they deserved.
Pearson worked on the Sykes churches at Garton-on-the-Wolds, Kirkburn, Bishop Wilton and Hilston in Holderness, and also on churches at Scorborough, Ellerker and Elloughton.
All are spectacular in their own way, but none can rival St Mary’s at South Dalton for sheer visual impact – that dreaming spire stands 63m, or 208 ft, high and leads visitors from miles around to it – and to the Pipe and Glass! Inside, the east and west windows boast stained glass designed by one of Pearson’s favourite makers, Clayton and Bell, who also designed the windows for Truro Cathedral, the west window at King’s College Chapel, Cambridge, and mosaics for the Albert Memorial.
Another highlight of the interior is the Hotham Chapel, including a monument to Sir John Hotham, who died in 1689, with a finely carved skeleton reclining below the body of the baronet. www.pipeandglass.co.uk
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Saturday Kitchen, BBC One.
Friday night & Saturday Kitchen
There in their midst was a wellknown chef, with an overnight backpack – and a large bunch of rhubarb.
But this was no sinister attempt to introduce Southern softies to the joys of great Yorkshire rhubarb – it was James en route to the Saturday Kitchen studio.
The rhubarb was a surprise gift for the show’s regular host, fellow tyke James Martin, a reminder of his roots.
Aired at the end of January, the show’s other guest chef was pal Stephen Terry, from The Hardwick in Abergavenny. He and James worked together last year when they were
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part of a team of top-name chefs, including Tom Kerridge, Chris Mackey, Josh Eggleston, Dom Chapman and Ben Tish, who cooked a fundraising dinner at The Hardwick during the Abergavenny Food Festival.
The celebrity guest was the youthful Kris Marshall, best known as Nick in My Family, Adam in the long-running series of BT ads, and, more recently, as DI Humphrey Goodman in Death in Paradise.
“ The producer
An old hand at Saturday Kitchen, Stephen had plenty of welcome advice for first-timer James – although his plan to go out and have a few drinks the previous evening was a bit less welcome, specially as the day starts at 6am with a full run-through of the show before live broadcast at 10am.
James cooked a favourite of his, salt beef with a fried egg, gooseberry ketchup and pickled onion rings (“I could eat that all day,” said Kris); proffered advice to callers; and took part in the regular three-egg omelette challenge (“I wouldn’t send it out at the Pipe and Glass,” said James of the finished
suggested that I spring the rhubarb on him, so we hid it under the counter and thrust it under his nose unexpectedly
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„
product, which he whipped up in just 31 seconds, putting him right up there alongside seafood virtuoso Rick Stein).
And James (Mackenzie) has nothing but admiration for James (Martin).
“I doubt there’s another chef in this country, possibly even in the world, that could do what he does on Saturday Kitchen,” he says. “Fronting a live 90-minute show, week after week, keeping it to time, chatting to guests, keeping everyone happy, everything running smoothly, is really tough. And he’s so unflappable and professional – the producer suggested that I spring the rhubarb on him, so we hid it under the counter and thrust it under his nose unexpectedly. But it didn’t throw him at all. “The phone’s been ringing off the hook since my appearance,” he continues. “With bookings, of course – but also with, it seems, everyone I know wanting to know all the details!”
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L eft to right: James Mackenzie, Kris Marshall, James Martin and Stephen Terry
The London-bound travellers on the Friday morning train must have wondered what on earth was going on.
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2014
Sienna, Prussian blue, burnt umber and cadmium…
Fine food and fine art – the two so often go hand-in-hand. Diners at the Pipe and Glass will be able to savour both when, on Thursday 1 May, the pub is the venue for an evening in the company of one of Yorkshire’s favourite artists, Bob Barker.
Hosted by the award-winning Artmarket Gallery, Cottingham, the evening will start with a private viewing of Bob’s art, including a specially commissioned painting inspired by the Pipe and Glass.
The original will be on show alongside a small number of limited edition giclée prints signed by both Bob and James.
Bob is known for his nostalgic images of his home county, and says:
“Nostalgia spurs me to paint by looking back to childhood memories with adult eyes; this allows me to be quite free artistically. In my neck of the woods, with the subjects I paint, most people see soot-blackened stone and polluted skies. www.thepantryonline.co.uk
It's A Monster - by Bob Barker
“Where I live it is impossible to walk a dozen yards from home without seeing old weavers' cottages, cotton and woollen mills, Yorkshire stone flags or cobbled streets that have been there for decades settling in and maturing, watching the landscape change around them. “Every day I get to see and paint this history and people get to share it with me through my paintings. I eat, breathe and sleep painting – and I love every minute of it.”
Whatever The Weather - by Bob Barker
Responding to Bob’s lyricism, James has developed a four-course menu for the evening based around the titles of some of his most evocative paintings – a starter of salmon three ways will go under the name of Perfect Match, while the main course, Nice Weather for Ducks, will be roast duck breast with a crispy confit duck pasty, savoy cabbage, and Chips and Gravy. A pudding of pistachio and cherry
Bob Barker
“I see colour: wet sienna cobbles and prussian blue shadows with burnt umber and cadmium skies. I view the world, along with my memories, in the subtle blended hues of my paintbox.
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bakewell tart with dark chocolate sorbet is the perfect choice for the name We Go Together Like A Wish And A Smile, while a selection of Yorkshire cheeses are the inspiration for The Passion. And James and Bob aim to Spread A Little Happiness by rounding off dinner with coffee and treats. Throughout the evening there will be talks from Bob and James, live sketching by Bob, and a charity auction.
Places cost £60 (drinks not included), and any special dietary requirements can be accommodated – please advise at time of booking. For further information or to book a place, please contact the Artmarket Gallery on 01482 876003 or email gallery@artmarket.co.uk www.artmarket.co.uk
Nice Weather For Ducks - by Bob Barker
The Passion - by Bob Barker
What's on the menu? Canapés on arrival ‘Perfect Match’ 2013
Salmon three ways – tartare, hot smoked salmon scotch egg, cold smoked salmon with fennel seed grissini and compressed cucumber
‘Nice Weather For Ducks’ 2014
Roast duck breast with crispy confit duck pasty, savoy cabbage and ‘Chips and Gravy’ 2009
‘We Go Together Like A Wish And A Smile’ 2013 Pistachio and cherry bakewell tart with dark chocolate sorbet
‘The Passion’ 2013
A selection of Yorkshire cheese
‘Spread A Little Happiness’ 2013 Coffee and treats
Drinks not included
For any dietary requirements, please contact For more information call 01482 876 003 or email
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Doing A Banksy - by Bob Barker
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gallery@artmarket.co.uk
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About Fresh Flavours, Local Ingredients & Culinary Inspiration
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Take your cooking to a new level whilst enjoying the Yorkshire Wolds Landscape • A range of courses suitable for everyone from £40-£150 • Bespoke courses available • State of the art facilities • We use the best local produce • Gift vouchers available • 4 star accommodation available on site
View our latest courses andbuy gift vouchers online at www.YorkshireWoldsCookerySchool.co.uk Highfield Farm, Southburn Road, Southburn, Driffield, YO25 9AF Tel 01377 227723
Call: 01723 892222
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Meet the producer
S t Quintin's Creamery
St Quintin's Creamery The crème de la crème
wanted to oversee their product from cow to bottle – all 4,000 litres a week, on average, of it. As Sarah points out, milk doesn't have a long shelf life, so the business had to be viable from the word go.
Being amongst the crème de la crème of restaurants, the Pipe and Glass likes to use only the best and most local producers.
So when James is ordering in his weekly supply of around 200 litres of cream and 100 or so litres of milk, it makes sense that it travels just 15 miles down the road from St Quintin’s Creamery in Harpham, near Driffield. Dairy farmer Peter Burdass is the third generation of tenants at the picturesque farm – he took on the running of the creamery when he was just 21, on the death of his father. For many years he and his wife, Sarah, and daughters Lizzie, now nearly 18, and 16-year-old Emily, continued to run the farm as his father had – producing raw milk for sale to the big milk processors.
But in 2008, the couple decided they
“It’s not a slow process: we really had to hit the ground running,” she says. “We had to very quickly learn about not just the processing and bottling end of things, but environmental health, distribution, marketing and sales.” The result is a dairy churning out milk that’s decidedly richer and tastier than the average.
“The big boys skim their milk to the lowest allowable percentage, taking out every drop of cream they possibly can,” explains Sarah.
“We can’t be that precise, and
our product goes through fewer processes – the result is that our milk is much creamier, and our cream is a lot thicker. People comment on it a lot – especially those with cappuccino machines!”
As well as the Pipe and Glass, Peter and Sarah supply shops and good oldfashioned milkmen right across East Yorkshire, including Hull. Being a small operator can bring its own very particular problems. Peter points out that many of their outlets are on the coast, so subject to seasonal fluctuations – even the fact that Easter this year is a few weeks later than usual has meant that he’s had to adjust his calving times.
And the recent ‘milk wars’ with huge retailers offering the white stuff for as little as 24p a pint caused problems.
“The supermarkets are just using milk farmers as fodder for their price wars,” says Sarah. “We can’t compete with those prices. But our milk is tastier, and fresher. We employ 12 local people, who all live only a few minutes away from the dairy. And in the winter, when the big suppliers can’t get through to small shops – we’re there.”
“It’s local, it’s delicious, and it’s ultra-fresh,” he says. “I’m safe in the knowledge that their cream and milk has gone through a lot fewer processes, and a lot fewer moves in terms of distance travelled, than supermarket milk.”
For more information on St Quintin’s Creamery, please visit: www.stquintinscreamery.co.uk
And the Burdasses are fighting back – they’re currently investigating additions to their product range, including clotted cream, cheese, and a range of puddings, from rice to crème caramel. On the day The Pantry visits, they pick James’ brain for advice on the flavour of the moment – salted caramel. James uses St Quintin’s cream for many of his award-winning recipes, both sweet and savoury.
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2014
Chocs away
Do you like it at 35%, 70% or are you really hardcore, and prefer 99%? Chocolate connoisseurs amongst you will have recognised those figures straight away: 35% is the minimum amount of cocoa solids necessary for chocolate to be defined as ‘dark’, according to EU rules. Dark chocolate with at least 70% cocoa solids is considered virtually a health food these days. And 99% is the upper limit at which a chocolate bar is edible – although for most of us, only just. Actually, one retailer has recently introduced a bar with 100% cocoa solids – no sugar, no other flavourings – but admits that most people buy it ‘out of curiousity’. Appreciation of good chocolate is on the rise. The days when a bar of Bournville was the height of sophistication are long gone – these days, you can buy astonishing creations from chocolatiers whose names are as familiar to cocoa aficionados as One Direction’s are to a teenage girl. Gerard Coleman, Paul A Young, William Curley, Chantal Coady – all stars of that velvety brown firmament.
Here at the Pipe and Glass, we like to think we’ve added to the canon of
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great chocolate recipes in our own small way with a pudding that’s been on the menu since we opened back in 2006, and which is so relentlessly in demand that it’s unlikely ever to come off it. Five Reasons to Love Chocolate is an extravagant platter comprising a rich, nutty brownie, an elegant mocha mousse, a crunchytopped white chocolate brûlée, a dark chocolate sorbet, and an intriguing chocolate cone filled with orange ganache and orange jelly – a posh take on a Jaffa cake. It’s probably one to share, to be honest.
“We usually use Callebaut chocolate in our recipes,” says James. “They’re a Belgian company favoured by a lot of chefs, and all their chocolate products are exceptionally high quality. We use different percentages for different recipes, depending on the effect we’re trying to achieve. “There must be people out there that really don’t like chocolate, but I don’t think I’ve ever met one – it’ll be a long time before we have a pudding menu that doesn’t have chocolate on it!”
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2014 Chocolate may be having a moment, but let’s face it, it’s always been popular. This beautiful cookery magazine – our illustrations show its front and back covers – dates from the early 1920s. Just 6d, and clearly an essential for the early 20th century cook: “Chocolate lends new charm to cookery,” it tells us, and continues:
“The dash of chocolate is one of those fine touches which make an everyday dish a Luxury Dish. With the help of our little collection of recipes, the woman who loves to cook good things will find this favourite flavour used in its most convenient form as Bournville Cocoa. Everyday Cakes,
The recipe for chocolate mushrooms, reproduced below in all its wordy glory, is one that we think worth reviving.
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Hurry-up Puddings – you can make all your meals dainty and delicious if you keep the larder well stocked with Bournville Cocoa. Every recipe in these pages has been made with this ingredient. Try one to-day and see if it is not the best Chocolate Dish You Ever Tasted!”
Alongside favourites which you might find in any modern recipe book, like chocolate sauce, Swiss roll and gateau, it features recipes for a few confections that have generally fallen out of favour over the last 90 years or so – chocolate Suffolk pudding, cocoa blancmange, or chocolate sago mould, anyone?
Chocolate Cookery is in the Scarborough Collections of museum objects in the care of Scarborough Museums Trust. We’d like to thank them for their help with this. www.scarboroughmuseumstrust.org.uk
Chocolate mushrooms Chocolate butter icing
Ingredients ½lb flour ¼ flat teaspoonful carbonate of soda ¼lb margarine 1 egg 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar 2oz cocoa 7oz castor sugar Milk
9oz sugar ¼ lb butter 2oz cocoa Vanilla flavouring 2 tablespoonfuls milk Almond Paste
½ lb ground almonds ¾ lb icing sugar Vanilla flavouring About 1½ egg whites (add more if required)
If you needed proof that chocolate appeals to people of all sorts, see below…
“ A ll you need is love. But a little
“ If some confectioners were willing
1. S ieve the flour, cocoa, soda and cream of tartar. Rub in the margarine finely. Add the sugar and mix the other ingredients. Beat up the egg and add, with sufficient milk to mix all together. When well mixed, beat for a few minutes. Put into small greased cake-tins, putting only a small quantity into each one. Bake in a hot oven for about 12 to 15 minutes, then put on to a sieve and leave until cold. 2. To make the almond paste – roll the lumps out of the sugar, then rub it through a fine sieve. Add the almonds and mix together. Whisk the whites slightly, and until smooth. Cut off a piece and save for the stalks. Roll out the remainder thinly, and cut into small rounds. Brush the bottom of the cakes with white of egg, using it very sparingly, and mould almond paste over each, leaving the top of the cakes uncovered.
“ W hat you see before you, my friend, is
Chocolate Cookery magazine
3. To make the chocolate butter icing – roll the lumps out of the sugar, then rub it through a fine sieve. Put the cocoa into a saucepan and mix to a smooth paste with the milk, then stir until dissolved – a little more milk may be used if required. Dd the butter to the sieved icing sugar, and beat both to a cream. Add the cocoa and a few drops of vanilla and mix all together, then leave until it becomes stiffer before using it. Fix a rose tube on to an icing-bag. put some of the icing into it, and force onto the cakes, from the edge of the almond paste to the centre in straight lines until the tops are completely covered. Mould the remainder of the almond paste into stalks, and stick one in the centre of each mushroom. 4. Note – if the cakes have risen much in the centre, a small piece can be cut off before the butter icing is put on.
“My wife can't cook at all. She made
chocolate now and then doesn't hurt.”
To let the shape announce the filling,
the result of a lifetime of chocolate.”
chocolate mousse. An antler got stuck
We'd encounter fewer assorted chocs,
in my throat.”
Charles M. Schulz
“Anything is good if it's made of chocolate.” www.thepantryonline.co.uk
Jo Brand
Katharine Hepburn
Rodney Dangerfield
Bitten into and returned to the box.”
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Ogden Nash
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2014
Playing gooseberry Gooseberries are one of our favourite fruits here at the Pipe and Glass. Mouth-puckeringly sharp in their raw state, luscious and melting when cooked (with a generous hand on the sugar!), they share some of those qualities with rhubarb – is it a coincidence that that’s another Yorkshire favourite? That delicious sharpness – which never really goes away, no matter how much sugar you lavish on it – means the gooseberry is the ideal partner for rich flavours like mackerel or lamb. In my book, On the Menu, I partner gooseberries with lamb in barbecued leg of lamb with Yorkshire salad and gooseberry and green peppercorn relish, and with smoked bacon in smoked bacon hash cake with fried duck egg and gooseberry ketchup.
But here’s a variation on that theme – the salt beef cake with fried egg, gooseberry ketchup and pickled onion rings that I cooked on Saturday Kitchen. That week’s guest, the actor Kris Marshall, loved it, declaring: “I could eat that all day!”
Prepare these tasty salt beef and potato cakes in advance and keep them uncooked in the fridge, along with the fancy ketchup. Then the meal comes together in the time it takes you to deep-fry the pickled onion rings.
Salt beef with a fried egg, gooseberry ketchup and pickled onion rings Ingredients For the salt beef 1 large white onion, finely chopped Rapeseed oil, for frying 2 sprigs fresh thyme Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 spring onions, sliced 400g/14oz dry, cooked mashed potato ½ bunch fresh chives, chopped Handful fresh flatleaf parsley, chopped Fresh lovage (optional) 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard 200g/7oz cooked salt beef, cut into 2cm/1in pieces For the ketchup
250g/9oz fresh gooseberries, stalks removed 1 large white onion, finely chopped 150g/5½oz unrefined sugar 100g/3½oz dark brown suga 200ml/7fl oz cider vinegar ½ tsp ground mixed spice 1 star anise Dash of Worcestershire sauce 1 garlic clove, chopped For the pickled onion rings Rapeseed oil, for deep frying 2 large pickled onions, thinly sliced into rings 200ml/7fl oz milk 200g/7oz plain flour To serve
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Rapeseed oil, for frying Butter, for frying 4 free range eggs Watercress, for garnish (optional)
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13. Deep-fry the pickled onion rings until golden-brown and crisp. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain them on kitchen paper and sprinkle with a little salt.
Method 1. For the salt beef, place the onion in a frying pan with a little rapeseed oil, a few leaves of picked thyme leaves and a little salt and pepper. 2. Fry the onion until it is soft and translucent, remove from the heat and allow to cool.
3. Place the mashed potato in a mixing bowl. Drain away any liquid from the onion and add the onion to the mash with the herbs, spring onion and mustard. 4. Add the salt beef to the mash and mix it all together. Season with some black pepper and a little salt if needed.
5. Divide the mixture into four and shape into cakes using a large round cutter with a dusting of flour if needed. They should be big enough to sit a fried egg on top when served.
14. To finish the salt beef hash cakes, shallow fry the hash cakes in some rapeseed oil and a good knob of butter, cook for about four minutes on each side until golden-brown. Finish in the hot oven for a few minutes. 15. Fry the eggs in a little rapeseed oil and a knob of butter.
16. To serve, place the egg on top of each of the cakes in the centre of four plates, garnish with blobs of the gooseberry ketchup, the deep-fried pickled onion rings and a sprig of watercress.
6. Place the salt beef cakes on a tray and put in the fridge until required. They can be made well in advance. 7. Preheat the oven to 220C/450F.
8. To make the gooseberry ketchup, place all the ingredients in a large saucepan, bring to the boil and then simmer until the gooseberries break down to a shiny chutney consistency.
9. Blend in a food processor and then pass the cooked gooseberries through a sieve. Cook in a clean pan to reduce down the volume of liquid a little more if required. 10. Pour the ketchup into a squeezy bottle and refrigerate until cold.
11. For the pickled onion rings, heat the oil in a pan for deep-fat frying. Heat until a breadcrumb drop in sizzles and goes brown.
12. Put the milk and flour into separate bowls. Dip the largest onion rings in milk, then coat them in flour. Dust off the excess flour and repeat the process again.
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Some goosegog facts
We’re indebted to the wonderful Egton Bridge Old Gooseberry Society website for the fascinating facts on this page. Each year, on the first Tuesday in August, the Society, based in Egton Bridge near Whitby, holds its famous Gooseberry Show, the oldest in the UK – it’s been running since 1800. The 2014 show will be on 5 August, and will be open to the public from 2pm. Prize giving is from 6.30pm. For more information: www.egtongooseberryshow.org.uk
Gooseberries
• The Latin name for the gooseberry is Ribes uva-crispa
• Bushes can fruit for at least 20 years and produce fruits that are classed as being red, yellow, green or white • The gooseberry has been crossed with the blackcurrant to produce the jostaberry
• The gooseberry should not be confused with the Chinese gooseberry, better known as the kiwi fruit, the Barbados gooseberry, which is a cactus, or the Indian gooseberry, which is a tree that produces an edible fruit
• An average portion of gooseberries contains about a quarter of the daily Vitamin C requirement. One 100g serving of raw gooseberries contains 40 calories • The bushes can cope with cold weather down to -35°C/-31°F.
The Egton Bridge Old Gooseberry Show Gooseberry shows were once popular all over the North of England, but declined after the First World War, dwindling from about 170 to only 20. Now there are only two of these original societies left, one in Cheshire, and the Egton Bridge Show, where official records go back to 1800 There's real ritual involved in setting up the scales for the Egton Bridge Show. They were bought in 1937 and are accurate enough to weigh a feather. The Society uses the avoirdupois system of grains and drams (27.34 grains to one dram, 16 drams to an ounce and 16 ounces to the pound) If a husband and wife compete, they need to keep their plants in separate pens
I f an exhibitor moves house and wants to take their bushes with them – some have passed through many generations – a member of the show committee has to be present. www.thepantryonline.co.uk
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2014
Golden futures There were a few quiet tears but no tantrums – the heats of the Golden Apron 2014, the search for Yorkshire’s best young chef, were remarkably calm events. Fourteen youngsters aged between 14 and 19 from right across the region were shortlisted for the first heats, with eight competing in each. They were chosen on the strength of their application, in which they had to describe their recipe using British pork: the Golden Apron is co-organised by The Pipe and Glass and the Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School, and sponsored by pig-farming specialists JSR, Cranswick plc and Sainsbury’s. Then came the nerve-wracking bit – actually cooking their recipe at the Cookery School for a panel of judges comprising James, JSR chair Tim Rymer and Katie Angood from Cranswick.
“Bearing in mind the youth of the contestants, the standard was incredibly high,” said James.
But six of the contestants had to leave at this stage, so we said goodbye to Jacob Barker from Barlby, Nina Brown from Grimsby, Maisie Delaney from Cleethorpes, Matthew Gilbert from Selby, Paige Huckin from Willerby and Jack Hughes from York. A fortnight later, the remaining eight – Zacharias Abbot and Tom Hull from York, Jake Fawcett from Wakefield, Annabella Jones from Barnsley, Tom Kerridge (no, not that one!) from Scunthorpe, Oliver Robinson from
The first heat contenstants for the Golden Apron (yes, Oliver, we can see you!) outside the Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School, with Nicola Whitehead, Account Controller, Cranswick, far left; JSR chair Tim Rymer and James, centre back; and Katie Angood, Product Development Manager, Cranswick, far right.
Otley, Georgie Smithson-Brown from Great Hatfield, near Hornsea, and Daniel Walters from Kirk Ella reassembled at the school to cook for one of three places in the final. This time, they were given two hours in which to produce their own version of two of James’ favourite recipes: salmon tartare with hot smoked salmon scotch egg and pickled samphire, followed by forced Yorkshire rhubarb with parkin and rum chantilly.
After manfully eating their way through eight lots of salmon tartare and eight portions of rhubarb and parkin, and a long discussion on the finer points of seasoning and presentation, the judges reached a decision – the finalists were 14-year-old Georgie, a pupil at Hornsea School; 15-year-old Oliver, who attends Prince Henry’s Grammar School, and studies hospitality and cookery once a week on day release at Leeds City College; and 18-year-old Jake, who is studying for a Level 3 Diploma in Advanced Professional Cookery at Wakefield College.
“ Bearing in mind the youth of the contestants, the standard was incredibly high
There were a few interesting little twists – the judges particularly liked Oliver’s presentation of his pudding in a teacup.
“You all produced really nice food, and it all looked beautiful – it was really difficult to decide on the three semi-finalists.
“I’d be happy to have any of the semifinalists on work experience in the Pipe and Glass kitchen.”
Jake said: “Winning the Golden Apron would be a great start to my career – I hope to open my own restaurant one day.”
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Announcing the finalists, James said:
Oliver reached the semi-finals of the competition last year, and was delighted to have got a stage further: “It feels great – it means that I’m developing as a chef,” he said.
And for George Smithson-Brown, reaching the final was all a bit overwhelming – through tears she paid tribute to her main culinary inspiration, her grandma. “I’ve learned such a lot from her,” she said, adding: “I’ve never worked in a professional kitchen before – I’m really looking forward to it.” www.thepantryonline.co.uk
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T E L . 01 4 8 2 8 7 6 0 0 3
1 9 7 H A L L G AT E , C O T T I N G H A M , H U 1 6 4 B B
A RT M A R K E T. C O. U K
Luxury celebration and wedding venue available to hire for your exclusive use, suitable for both large and lavish celebrations or smaller, more intimate gatherings. Set in 27 acres of stunning country side Several exquisite reception rooms, individually licensed for ceremonies 29 individually designed and beautifully appointed bedrooms MICHAEL DONALD
Bespoke catering options available on request
t
.01964 564 096
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r i s e h a l l
Keith
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c o m
14
Recipes
The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2014
Spring – Summer Recipe photography by Jason Lowe
Starter Potted Crab with Blood Orange and Pickled Fennel Salad and Brown Crab Sticks. This is my take on the crab stick. It's slightly different to the luminous bright pink sticks that are touted at the seaside as a fishrelated product despite never having come into contact with a crab. I use brown crab meat and puff pastry to create a crisp tasty accompaniment to the potted crab, which can also make a great canapé on its own.
Ingredients: Serves 4-6 For the potted crab 250g fresh white crab meat 100g fresh brown crab meat 2 shallots 1 lemon 250g butter fresh dill sea salt cayenne pepper For the pickled fennel
1 bulb fennel 150ml white wine vinegar 1 tsp sugar 1 tsp pink peppercorns 1 tsp fennel seeds 2 blood oranges www.thepantryonline.co.uk
1. You will need some small ramekins or jars to pot the crab. Peel and finely chop the shallots, zest and juice 1 lemon, and place both into a saucepan with 200g butter. Cook on a low heat until the shallots become soft, for about 10-15 minutes.
5. Pre-heat the oven to 160°c/gas mark 3.
3. To pickle the fennel, halve and finely slice the fennel and place in a bowl. Bring the vinegar, sugar, peppercorns and fennel seeds up to the boil and pour into the bowl with the fennel, then leave to cool.
7. To make the salad, drain the fennel from the vinegar and place in a bowl. Peel and segment the blood orange and add to the bowl making sure to squeeze any excess juice from the orange peel.
2. Chop a handful of fresh dill, and place the white and the brown crab in a bowl with the dill. Add the softened shallots and butter, mix and season to taste with salt and some cayenne pepper. Divide the mix between your serving pots, finishing about 1cm from the rim. Melt the remaining butter and spoon over the crab mix to seal, adding a pinch of cayenne on top of each pot. Place the pots in the fridge to set: this can be done well in advance.
For the crab sticks
100g brown crab meat 4 tblsp white breadcrumbs squeeze of lemon fresh dill cayenne pepper sea salt 400g fresh puff pastry 1 egg, beaten 2 tblsp sesame seeds baby salad leaf, or micro cress fennel pollen (optional)
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4. To make the brown crab sticks, mix the brown crab meat with the breadcrumbs, a squeeze of lemon and some chopped dill. Season the mix with some cayenne pepper and a little salt, place in a piping bag with a fine plain nozzle and refrigerate.
6. Roll out the puff pastry into a rectangle and cut in half lengthways, pipe 3-4 lines of the brown crab mix evenly down 1 piece of the pastry. Brush in between the crab with beaten egg and sprinkle some chopped dill evenly over the crab and pastry. Place the other sheet of pastry on top over the crab mix, and carefully seal, brush with egg and cover with the sesame seeds, then place on a baking tray and put in the freezer. When semi-frozen take from the freezer and cut across the crab into thin sticks about 1cm thick. Lay on a nonstick baking tray and bake in the oven at 160°c/gas mark 3 for 10-15 minutes until golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave on the tray to cool.
8. Remove the crab from the fridge about 30 minutes before you want to serve. Serve each pot with salad, dressed with a few of the mixed baby leaves, and a crab stick. Sprinkle a little fennel pollen onto each plate to give a fantastic aromatic flavour This works perfectly served with a round of toast to accompany the crab.
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2014
15
Main Stuffed Roast Breast of Chicken with Braised Peas and Broad Beans, Crispy Smoked Bacon and Garden Thyme. This is a great dish in summer when peas and broad beans are in season. Using the braised peas and broad beans is my take on the French classic dish 'petit pois à la française'.
Ingredients: Serves 4 4 free-range chicken breasts pig's caul fat rapeseed oil For the stuffing
100g ham hock, or ham, cooked 1 free-range chicken breast salt & pepper 200ml double cream 6 leaves fresh tarragon For the peas and beans
250g peas 250g broad beans 100g baby onions 200ml chicken stock 50g butter 50g flour 1 little gem lettuce 4 rashers of smoked streaky bacon fresh thyme knob of butter For the sauce
300ml chicken stock 200ml double cream 1 punnet pea shoots
1. Pre-heat the oven to 180°c/gas mark 4. 2. To make the stuffing, remove the meat from the cooked ham hock.Dice 1 of the chicken breasts andplace it in a food processor, season with a little salt and pepper and blitz until smooth. Pour 200ml of the double cream in while the processor is on, until it has all been incorporated. Remove the chicken mixture into a bowl and add the picked ham hock and the fresh chopped tarragon.
3. Divide the mixture onto the top of the four chicken breasts and then wrap in the caul fat to make a parcel. Place them in the fridge until needed.
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4. P lace the streaky bacon in individual strips flat on a greased baking tray and bake in the oven at 180°c/gas mark 4 for 8-10 minutes until crispy.
5. For the braised peas and broad beans, bring a pan of water to the boil and blanch the peas and broad beans separately, and then refresh in iced water keeping them separate.Remove the outer shell of the broad beans to refine the finished dish. Sear the peeled baby onions in a frying pan until golden
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brown. Place 200ml of chicken stock in a saucepan and bring to the boil, mix the butter and flour together and whisk into the boiling stock. Shred the lettuce and chop 4 rashers of the crispy bacon. Add the peas, broad beans, baby onions, bacon and lettuce and simmer for 2 minutes. Finish with some chopped thyme and stir in a knob of butter.
6. To make the sauce, in a large saucepan reduce 300ml of chicken stock by two-thirds and add 200ml of double
cream. Boil until you've got a good sauce consistency. Brown the chicken in a frying pan with a little rapeseed oil and then transfer onto a baking tray and cook in the oven at 180°c/gas mark 4 for about 20 minutes depending on the size of the chicken. When cooked, remove from the oven and rest for 5-10 minutes.
7. Serve the chicken with a pot of the braised peas and broad beans, a piece of crispy bacon, some pea shoots and the sauce.
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2014
Starter Strawberry Cheesecake with Strawberry and Basil Sorbet and Black Pepper Tuile. I love using strawberries when they're in season: the quintessential English summer fruit. They're on our menu in numerous ways but this dish always goes down a treat. It uses strawberries in four different ways, but you could always just serve the cheesecake with some fresh strawberries and keep it simple.
Ingredients: Serves 6-8 For the cheesecake base
For the strawberry jelly
For the sorbet
40g ground almonds 40g plain flour 40g melted butter 2g salt
250g strawberries 25g icing sugar 50ml water juice of 1 lime 5g leaf gelatine
300ml strawberry purée 150ml sugar syrup zest and juice of 1 lime 8 basil leaves
For the cake mix
175g cream cheese 40g mascarpone cheese 50g sugar 3 egg yolks zest of 1 lime
For the garnish
For the tuiles
1 punnet fresh strawberries pinch ground white pepper 50g caster sugar 2 basil leaves
75g icing sugar 20ml cold water 20g plain flour 50g melted butter 15g sesame seeds cracked black pepper
1. Pre-heat the oven to 150°c/gas mark 2. 2. To make the cake base, mix all of the ingredients together to make a light crumb. Press into a 20cm cake ring and smooth with the back of a spoon. Bake at 150°c/gas mark 2 for 20 minutes until golden brown. Remove from the oven and cool.
3. To make the cake mix, cream all of the ingredients together until smooth. Pour the cake mix onto the base and bake at 110°c/gas mark ¼ for around 30-40 minutes until set. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Then set in the fridge until cold.
4. To top the cake with a strawberry jelly, cook all of the ingredients, apart from the gelatine, in a pan over a very low heat until the strawberries are completely soft, and then pass through a fine sieve. Soak the gelatine in cold water and then squeeze dry, warm and add to the strawberry juice. Leave to cool slightly, and then pour over the cheesecake and set in the fridge.
5. To make the tuiles, sift the sugar and add the water, mix to a paste, sift in the flour and pour in the butter and then mix to a smooth paste. Mix in the sesame seeds. 6. Spread the tuile mix thinly on a nonstick baking tray and sprinkle with black pepper. Bake at 180°c/gas mark 4 for 6-8 minutes and remove from the oven. Leave to set hard and then break up into required pieces.
7. For the sorbet, pour the strawberry purée and syrup into an ice cream machine, start to churn and add the lime and the finely chopped basil. Churn and place in the freezer until needed. 8. Macerate the strawberries by halving them all, place one-third in a bowl with the sugar, pepper and shredded basil and mash them up with a fork, then add the rest of the strawberries and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.
9. To serve, slice the cheesecake into portions and serve with some of the strawberries, a scoop of sorbet and the tuile. You can add fresh strawberries as garnish and finish with a few drops of rapeseed oil infused with black pepper.
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2014
17
The English are coming by Simon Kershaw You’ll most probably heard the saying ‘you are what you eat’, and there’s a growing belief that the provenance of our food is of increasing importance – a belief that James holds, hence the time he invests in sourcing all the food for The Pipe and Glass.
I’m convinced the same is true of what we drink. This, of course, would come as no surprise to our European neighbors in France, Italy and Spain, who have held true to these philosophies since time began. Indeed the Italians are now advocates of the slow food movement: not surprising when you realise they have a mere 11 distinct food regions with wines grown in the same soils and sympathetic to the food they eat, the climate they live in and, above all, their passion for food and wine as being inseparable as well as a way of life.
The French call the principle of wine production ‘Terroir’. It doesn’t literally translate, but means all the living factors surrounding the vineyard: the sun, wind, soil and the people who tend the vines all contributing to the character and essence of the wine produced.
So what about the English? One hears stories of wine production here in Roman times, though I remain to be convinced of the quality of such wine. The overwhelming evidence is that wine was shipped into England in terracotta urns from the Middle East, though again, what the condition of such wine was once on our shores, we can only imagine. But all is set to change in the coming years with the advent of global warming. Dijon is now two degrees warmer than it was 25 years ago and with the meteorologists predicting a
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further three-degree average increase in the next 20 years, the effect is like pulling a duvet over Europe; the duvet is now lying across the southern areas of England. And while a couple of degrees would not seem to be that significant, for grape production it makes a massive difference.
Of course the other key factor is the geology. With a rock strata running under the Channel and resurfacing in the Côte-d'Or, our southern chalk uplands match the Champagne region. Witness the production of English sparkling wines such as Nyetimber, Chapel Down and Camel Valley – not just good wines, but world-beaters
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winning every accolade going, even from the French! It’s not surprising, really, as English winemakers are investing heavily in land throughout the south. As things hot up, their still wines are becoming more interesting – they’re no longer just planting floral German grape varieties which, with their cold climate tolerance and lots of added sugars, are not to everyone’s taste.
“ With the
I am confident that in 20 years’ time England will be producing some of the world’s finest wines, with prices rivalling those of the very best vineyards from around the world. It’s an exciting prospect for wine lovers and even more so for the lucky landowners who can expect to realise multiples of current land values for the very best wineproducing areas: land in the Champagne region can be worth as much as €6m per acre compared to £6,000 to £7,000 for average agricultural land in the UK.
meteorologists predicting a further threedegree average increase in the next 20 years, the effect is like pulling a duvet over Europe
With the increase in temperature comes the ability to grow more mainstream grape varieties such as Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, the classic ingredients for champagne. Pinot Noir, arguably the most refined of all red grape varieties, is a native of northern climes and is being planted as far north in the UK as Helmsley and Malton, with surprising results.
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I would certainly drink to that. Simon Kershaw House of Townend
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2014
Afternoon Tea
Tea for (up to) ten
choose to add a bottle of champagne from the Pipe and Glass’s extensive wine list.
Cucumber and smoked salmon sandwiches, feather-light scones with jam and cream, delectably pretty cakes – what could be more civilised and English than a traditional afternoon tea?
Afternoon tea at the Pipe and Glass is served Tuesdays to Saturdays. Advance bookings only – please call 01430 810246 to book.
And now you can enjoy this retro treat in the intimate surroundings of the private dining room, The Hotham Room, upstairs at the Pipe and Glass. Perfect for a celebration, a gettogether with old friends, or even an unusual slant on a business meeting.
Afternoon tea is available for a minimum of six, and a maximum ten people, from £20 per person. If you want to make it really special, you can
Come dine with… James! Looking for a day out with a difference? Why not spend the day at your favourite restaurant, seeing a cookery demo by a Michelin-starred chef – and then eat the results! For just £50 a head, and for parties of between six and ten, you are invited to ‘come dine with James’. In the intimate surroundings of the Pipe and Glass’s private dining area (upstairs from the main restaurant area), James will prepare a twocourse meal to a menu decided with you in advance.
The price includes a couple of glasses of wine, plus tea or coffee – and, of course, the chance to pick James’ culinary brain. Can’t resist? Call the Pipe and Glass on 01430 810246, or email email@pipeandglass.co.uk to book. www.thepantryonline.co.uk
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2014
NIBs
The
Two Chefs go East
Where does time go? In March, James and Kate celebrated – wait for it – their eighth year at the Pipe and Glass. In that time, they’ve turned what was a fairly run-down local pub into a nationally-known destination restaurant – while still running a bar where regulars still drop in for a pint and a sandwich – and won just about every award going. Oh, and they’ve also found the time to produce two children!
If you happen to be in Hong Kong or Singapore, don’t be surprised if you stumble across a couple of familiar faces on a beer bottle. Two Chefs, the honey and lemon thyme brew developed by James and Andrew Pern for the Great Yorkshire Brewery, is now on sale in bars in both cities.
After their triumph in the Cateys – the industry Oscars – last year, James and Kate were delighted to have been asked this year to judge the category which they won – the Best Pub and Bar award.
The team
Editors at large: James, Kate, Toby and Molly Mackenzie Concept Creation Design & Production www.graphicpower.co.uk
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It promises to be bigger and better than ever – this year’s Malton Foodlovers’ Festival takes place on Saturday 24 and Sunday 25 May. Once again, James is a patron, alongside old mucker Andrew Pern, from the Star at Harome and the recently opened Star Inn the City, York; French favourite Jean-Christophe Novelli; those cheekily charming ‘Incredible Spice Men’, Cyrus Todiwala and Tony Singh; and Channel 4’s trio of Italian siblings, Michela, Emi and Romina Chiappa. James will be giving several demos over the weekend – visit the website for times and venues: www.maltonyorkshire.co.uk
The Pipe and Glass didn’t know what had hit it when one of the biggest personalities in showbiz paid a visit earlier this year. Christopher Biggins had lunch at the pub on a day off from performing as Dame Trot in Jack and the Beanstalk, last Christmas’s panto at Hull New Theatre.
And the man affectionately known to all just as ‘Biggins’ loved it so much, he came back a few weeks later to celebrate his birthday. Turns out he’s as flamboyant in real life as he is on stage: “We could hear him laughing from the kitchen!” says James.
North of Watford Gap
Christmas Fair As ever, the Christmas Fair at The Pipe and Glass was very well-attended, with attendees able to buy gorgeous gifts ranging from food to clothes and art. The event raised £400 for the South Dalton Village Hall fund.
What Catey did
He’s behind you!
Malton Food Festival
The news in brief
Figure of eight
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Every little helps James will be visiting the Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School from 7pm on Monday 29 September to give a fundraising cookery demo for Macmillan Cancer Support - please visit www. yorkshirewoldscookeryschool.co.uk for further information.
Words by Jeannie Swales and photography by Tony Bartholomew (unless otherwise credited) www.turnstonemedia.co.uk
We want to hear from you – comments about The Pantry, and suggestions for future stories, are always very welcome. Please email pantry@pipeandglass.co.uk
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Great British Chefs James has recently been added to the superb Great British Chefs website – an online resource for all lovers of fine food. Featuring recipes, cooking techniques, a children’s area, regular competitions and a classy online shop, the website’s extensive directory of contributors also includes such famous names as the Galvin Brothers, Marcus Wareing, Nathan Outlaw, Pierre Koffmann, Richard Corrigan, Shaun Hill, Simon Rogan, and a trio of famous Toms – Aikens, Kerridge and Kitchin. www.greatbritishchefs.com
For the second year in a row, the Pipe and Glass has been placed fourth in the Budweiser Budvar Top 50 Gastropub Awards, run by industry newspaper The Morning Advertiser. And with only Tom Kerridge’s Hand and Flowers in Buckinghamshire, Stephen Harris’s Sportsman in Kent and Josh and Holly Eggleton’s Pony and Trap in Bristol ahead of it – it’s officially the best gastropub in the north!
Dates for your diary Tuesday 8th July – James will be demonstrating again at the Great Yorkshire Show. Catch him at noon.
19th September – James has again signed up to join Stephen Terry’s team at the annual charity gala dinner at The Hardwick in Abergavenny. Sunday 21st September – James will be demonstrating at the Cottingham Food Festival.
Sunday 5th October – James joins the line-up in the Cookery Theatre Marquee at this year’s Beverley Food Festival. See him at 10.30am.
If you’d like your business to be an advertising partner of The Pantry, please drop us a line at pantry@pipeandglass.co.uk
We’re accepting just one advertising partner from each sector, so you’ll never see your competitors advertising alongside you. And each partner will be offered first refusal on space in the subsequent issue, ensuring you always have access to that premium space.
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A calf at St Quintin's Creamery - see page 7. Photograph by Tony Bartholomew.
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