The Pantry The newspaper of The Pipe and Glass Inn | Autumn – Winter 2014
Meet the producer
Oh, I wish it could be Christmas every day…
Meet the producer | page 6
Page 16
Seasonal recipes | page 12
Times Top 100 | page 19
Star quality What a fabulous autumn it’s been here at The Pipe and Glass! It’s always a nailbiting time of year for the team – and many others in the restaurant industry, of course – as we await the announcement of the Michelin stars for 2015.
And for the sixth year in a row, all the hard work that goes on behind the scenes (trust us, it’s like a swan – serene and calm on the surface, paddling furiously underneath) has paid off: The Pipe and Glass has kept its Michelin star.
If that was the icing on the cake, there were not one, but two, very large, juicy cherries to go on top of it. The Pipe was named in the Times Top 100 restaurants (see page 19 for more) and, having won the title of Good Pub Guide County Dining Pub of the Year for 2014, went one better this year – it's the esteemed guide's National Dining Pub of the Year for 2015! The Guide praises the Pipe as an ‘attractive dining pub with a proper bar area, real ales, interesting modern cooking, good service, garden and front terrace; stylish bedrooms’.
It says: “It's the wonderful food that draws most customers to this attractive whitewashed dining pub, but there's still a proper bustling bar area and they do keep Black Sheep Best, Cropton Two Chefs and a guest from Great Newsome and Wold Top on handpump, 15 wines by the glass, 40 malt whiskies and a farm cider; service is prompt and friendly.” The Guide loves the food: ““Beautifully presented, the confident, contemporary food is cooked by the landlord using top quality local produce.”
And of the pub itself, and its lovely village setting, it says: “All is airy and comfortably contemporary, angling around past some chunky button-back leather chesterfields into a light restaurant area overlooking Dalton Park, with high-backed stylish dining chairs around well spaced country tables on bare boards… There are tables on the garden's peaceful lawn and picnic-sets on the front terrace; the yew tree is said to be some 500 years old. The two suites, stylish and well equipped, have views over Dalton Park. The village is charming and its elegant Victorian church spire, 62 metres tall, is visible for miles around.” James and Kate say: “It’s been another amazing year for us. We’re lucky to have a wonderful team around us – we couldn’t have done it without them.”
2 | The Pantry
A baking dozen of toddlers Old MacDonald’s visit It makes The Great British Bake Off look positively pedestrian: a dozen youngsters from an East Yorkshire nursery enjoying a morning in the late summer sun decorating biscuits at The Pipe and Glass Inn.
The little ones, all aged between three and five, attend Old MacDonald’s Children’s Daycare Nursery in Lund, near Driffield. They spent the morning on the terrace at the back of the pub decorating biscuits in the shape of teddy bears and flowers, under the guidance of James and Kate, whose two-year-old daughter Molly attends the nursery.
“Old MacDonald’s has really looked after Molly and, before her, her brother Toby – we’re delighted to be able to give something back to them
„
Amid much sticky mess, the children unleashed their creativity, decorating their biscuits with brightlycoloured chocolate and an assortment of sprinkles.
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James then iced each biscuit with its owner’s name (carefully checking the spelling!), and the children took them home for their families to enjoy.
Old MacDonald’s Nursery manager Sara Jefferson said: “They’ve had great fun – it’s been something really different for the children to do. They know James and Kate because they’ve seen them picking Molly up from nursery, and that helps – it’s less daunting for the very little ones to come somewhere where they know people.”
James said: “Old MacDonald’s has really looked after Molly and, before her, her brother Toby – we’re delighted to be able to give something back to them.”
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Autumn – Winter 2014 | 3
Courtesy of Hull University Archives at Hull History Centre/© University of Hull
“ I'd like to think that
people in pubs would talk about my poems"
A fascinating story about the connection of one of Hull’s most famous sons and The Pipe and Glass has emerged in a recent biography.
Philip Larkin: Life, Art and Love, published earlier this year, is by James Booth, a former professor of English at Hull University and Literary Adviser to the Larkin Society. Larkin was, of course, the university’s librarian – as well as being arguably the greatest British poet of modern times, and something of a ladies’ man.
James told The Pantry: “There is one famous occasion on which the Pipe and Glass features in Larkin's biography. Betty Mackereth relates that it was after a meal at the Inn in 1975 that their affair began. They were both then in their early fifties and she had been his secretary for eighteen years.” In the book, James writes: “At this point Larkin transformed his situation in the most dramatic and creative way. He brought a third woman into his life by initiating a love affair with his secretary of eighteen years, Betty Mackereth. “Betty's description shows how deliberate the 'seduction' was on his part. Philip had driven Betty and Pauline Dennison, who was in charge of the Library issue desk, to a dinner at the Pipe and Glass Inn in the village of South Dalton with representatives of Castle Park Dean Hook, the www.thepantryonline.co.uk
architects of the new Library.
“Driving back at the end of the evening, Betty was puzzled that he contrived to take a circuitous route which involved dropping off Pauline first. "When they arrived at Betty's house he surprised her by asking if she was going to invite him in for coffee. He later revealed to her that he had worked out the whole sequence beforehand."
The great man enjoys a pint (although not at The Pipe and Glass!)
He doesn't write to her about the very significant 1975 visit though!"
Philip Larkin: Life, Art and Love is published by Bloomsbury. James Booth will be signing copies in Waterstone’s on Hull’s
Jameson Street between in December (date to be announced): www.philiplarkin.com
She told Andrew Motion later: 'Nothing much occurred that evening, though Philip did break a saucer! But once on the slippery slope, there seemed nothing I could do to stop (nor did I want to).' The broken saucer seems oddly significant. Was it a sign of his guilt and nervousness, a symbol of transgression; or was it a careless assertion of masculine assurance?”
The Pipe and Glass as it was in the 70s...
Larkin Society member Phil Pullen was able to add a bit more to the story. "There are two references to the Pipe and Glass in Larkin's letters to Eva [his mother],” he tells us.
“The first is dated 14th February 1960, when he took Betty there in gratitude for her typing his application for Reading University.
“The second is 14th June 1970, when he tells his mother that he is planning to take the Library staff out ('More expense!’). www.pipeandglass.co.uk
...and as it is today
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4 | The Pantry
Causing a stir A children’s charity has paid tribute to the support that James, Kate and the team at The Pipe and Glass have shown it over the years.
Wooden Spoon is known as ‘the children's charity of rugby’ – it was founded in 1983 when a group of English rugby fans were drowning their sorrows in a Dublin bar after England's disastrous performance in the Five Nations Championship. The victorious Irish fans presented them with a wooden spoon in sympathy, and they came up with the idea of holding a
charity golf match to see who deserved the honour of keeping it.
The idea spiraled, and Wooden Spoon has since made a difference to the lives of disadvantaged children and young people. It is one of the largest funders of respite and medical treatment centres, sensory enhancement therapeutic facilities, specialist playgrounds, sports activity areas, and community-based programmes in the UK, and granting over £20m to these projects. Wooden Spoon trustee Richard Smith says: “We have a fundraising dinner in York
around St George's Day every year. The Pipe and Glass has generously provided an auction item for the last four years, which have raised a significant amount and contributed towards fundraising projects in York, Scarborough and Hull. “I first met James on my second visit to The Pipe and Glass. I was immediately impressed by his interest in supporting local causes; and as a keen fan, I also wanted to promote Yorkshire’s finest dining pub to the audience at the annual fundraising dinner! “The support that James and Kate have
given Wooden Spoon in Yorkshire has helped us to raise thousands of pounds to benefit children with special needs. “The interest he has shown in helping young people was highlighted when he opened the new kitchen at the Applefields School in York; James took the time and trouble to involve as many pupils as possible in the preparation of one of his signature dishes.” For more information on Wooden Spoon, please visit: www.woodenspoon.com Photography by Michael Coghlan
BOB DYLAN
Bob Dylan © Mark Seliger
THE DRAWN BLANK SERIES 2014
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Autumn – Winter 2014 | 5
Dip, drizzle, roast, bake, fry… Our good friends Adam and Jennie Palmer from Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil are branching out into publishing. Alongside their lovely range of oils, dressing and mayonnaises, they’re now selling a cookery book featuring over 100 recipes, all using Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil products.
Cooking with Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil includes both savoury and sweet dishes, with guest recipes from James (who has also written the foreword), Justin Staal of Staal Smokehouse and Simon Barrett, The Chilli Jam Man.
Jennie says: “We were delighted when James offered to write the foreword for the book. He has been with us from the early days of Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil and it’s fantastic to have him on board.
“We first talked about producing a book many months ago, and the idea gradually started to take shape and became a real project. We’d like to say a big thank you to everyone who has helped to make our idea a reality. We hope that you enjoy using it as much as we enjoyed putting it together!”
Cooking with Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil costs £12.99, and can be bought directly from the team when they appear at food shows and festivals, from selected stockists including the Pipe and Glass, and online at: www.yorkshirerapeseedoil.co.uk/shop/recipebook.html
Acclaimed Yorkshire artist Bob Barker was guest of honour at a special evening at The Pipe and Glass earlier this year.
Table for Two
Hosted by James and Kate in association with The Artmarket Gallery, the evening saw diners meet Bob Barker, take part in a sketching competition, and bid in a charity auction which raised £650 for the cancer ward at Cottingham’s Castle Hill Hospital.
Bob also unveiled a new painting: Table for Two depicts a couple arriving for dinner at The Pipe and Glass on a rainy, moonlit evening, and has really caught the imagination of art-loving diners – a limited edition print of just 54, signed by both Bob and James, has sold out. You can see the painting in all its glory on the back page of this edition of The Pantry. Limited edition prints were on sale at £599, but since the piece has sold out, they now reach over £700. Please call The Artmarket Gallery on 01482 876003 or visit: www.artmarket.co.uk
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Meet the producer
Alan Hodgson (right) and James watch as filleter Andy Barker tackles a salmon
6 | The Pantry
Hodgson Fish A fishy family affair They’re a fishy family, the Hodgsons of Hartlepool. One of the country’s leading fish suppliers, these days the family firm is run by brother-and-sister team Peter and Jill, under the guidance of dad Alan.
But the Hodgson dynasty in the town dates back nearly 150 years to when Alan’s greatgrandfather, Samuel Cornelius Hodgson, ran an outfit which cured herrings in the 1870s. Samuel’s son, William Thomas Hodgson, followed in his father’s footsteps, inter-
rupted in 1914 when German Zeppelin raids on Hartlepool destroyed the family’s smokehouse. William found alternative employment in the local steelworks, but that didn’t last long – by 1916, the call of the sea had proved too much, and he’d bought the premises on Whitby Street, in Hartlepool town centre, which are still occupied by Hodgson’s retail outlet today (they have a second shop in Yarm, too).
William Thomas was succeeded by William Mellen, Alan’s dad (spot a running theme here, other than fish? Alan is actually William Alan, and Peter has William as a second name, as does his son Haydn). The company steadily grew: today it employs 50 staff, including 16 delivery drivers, and takes all the catch from seven or eight small potting boats, and around eight day trawlers in Hartlepool.
And Hodgson’s turns over some seriously huge amounts of seafood – a couple of tons of mussels a week, and maybe three tons of cod; 4,000 Lindisfarne oysters; anything up to 1,500kg of lobster a week in the summer, and around 500-800kg in the winter.
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Autumn – Winter 2014 | 7
Alan in the Hodgson’s smokehouse
We’re here because Hodgson’s are James’ main supplier of fish for The Pipe and Glass Inn – in fact, James reckons, they’re the main suppliers for 99% of the region’s top restaurants. “When you’re running a restaurant like ours, you need a whole package of things from your suppliers,” he says. “Fish is a difficult one – we need to take into account sustainability, and local produce; but we also need our supplier to be able to guarantee quality and consistency of supply. Hodgson’s can do all of that.
“I’m also a firm believer in building relationships, and loyalty – which goes both ways, of course – and I’ve known Alan now for over 10 years, since before we opened the Pipe and Glass. His dry sense of humour helps, too!”
Hodgson’s policy is clearly not just supplying the best, but employing the best – filleter Andy Barker gives us a demonstration of how to turn a two-foot long salmon into a pair of perfectly turned fillets in just seconds. His skills have won
The processing plant on Hartlepool’s Headland is a hive of activity. The admin offices are there, but there are also tanks alive with lobsters and crabs; a huge walk-in unit churning out tons of ice for packing the fish; a smoking unit – and in the middle of it all, the filleters, hard at work.
him awards, including several placings in last year’s British Fish Craft Championships.
With fisherman John Mekins, Alan also takes us on a guided tour of one of the local trawlers which exclusively supply Hodgson’s. It’s an eye-opener – the cramped two-man day boat leaves Hartlepool at around 3am, returning 12 hours later with its catch.
As James points out, fish isn’t always the cheapest option on the menu – but when you consider the stages it has to go through before it arrives on the diner’s plate, it increasingly looks like a delicious bargain.
Hodgson’s logo on the side of the Whitby Street shop
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James and Alan aboard the trawler Sagittarius
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8 | The Pantry
Didn't we have a lovely day… Everyone’s doing it these days – the ‘awayday’ is high on many businesses’ agendas, a chance for teams to focus on a particular task, or to bond and forward plan without distractions.
Here at The Pipe and Glass, we say: if you’re going to do it, why not do it in style with one of our bespoke business experiences?
We can accommodate from six to 28 people for your corporate event, business meeting, or ‘out-of-office’ experience to let ideas flow in space, tranquillity and privacy. Upstairs, the Hotham Room is the ultimate venue for a private meeting for six to ten people – luxurious and comfortable surroundings, large flatscreen TV, Wi-Fi and USB connectivity. Plus, of course, bespoke tasting menus by James. Larger groups can take over the conservatory downstairs for an inspirational business breakfast, lunch or dinner. The airy space offers James’ seasonal bespoke menus individually tailored to your requirements, and the location allows privacy, while still enjoying the convivial atmosphere of the main restaurant. The conservatory can host 20 to 28 people. To book your business meeting, please call us on 01430 810246 or email business@pipeandglass.co.uk
Extending boutique luxury Come dine with James For an awayday with a difference, why not spend the day seeing a cookery demo by James – and then eat the results? Parties of between six and ten are invited to ‘come dine with James’. In the intimate surroundings of The Pipe and Glass’s Hotham Room, he will prepare a two-course meal to a menu decided with you in advance. www.thepantryonline.co.uk
It’s been getting increasingly difficult to get an overnight stay at the Pipe and Glass – the Inn currently has just two letting rooms, and they tend to get booked up months in advance.
views into the Dalton Park estate.
The new rooms will be available to book from January 2015, and will have views of a beautiful new kitchen garden which is also under development, and should be in full bloom by next spring.
For further information on both the new rooms, and corporate events at The Pipe and Glass Inn, please either call us on 01430 810 246 or visit the website: www.pipeandglass.co.uk
So, since we hate disappointing people, we decided to tackle the problem head on – by adding three new rooms! Sage and Thyme will be joined soon after Christmas by Mint, Rosemary and Lovage – three new boutique suits with the same high spec luxury as the originals: superking-sized sleigh bed, BOSE iPod docking station, DVD player, plasma TV, luxury bathroom and private patio with stunning www.pipeandglass.co.uk
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Autumn – Winter 2014 | 9
The secret is in the vines…
When a charming and witty Frenchman – who begins by saying that he was born in a vineyard and the wine runs through his veins – talks, you listen carefully.
A rapt audience of diners at the Pipe and Glass did just that when Basile Guibert, scion of a great wine-making family in the Languedoc, introduced his family’s delicious products to them.
The Guibert family run Mas de Daumas Gassac which is providing, via Bedalebased wine merchants Firth and Co, The Pipe and Glass’s latest venture – a range of three house M as de wines.
“
five children of the vineyard’s founders, Véronique and Aimé Guibert – describes wines made in the region in the past as ‘plonk’. But in 1970, his parents were looking for a family home in the region, became entranced by the spectacular land and, after considering maize and olives as possible crops, decided to grow grapes.
Daumas Gassac is one of France’s great wine estates. I’m honoured to be bringing their wines to the Pipe and Glass
The delicious trio – a white and a red and a rosé – are all made at the family vineyard in a ‘wild and unique valley’, near the gorgeous 9th century Abbaye de Saint-Guilhem-leDésert in Hérault, a département in the Languedoc-Roussilon region.
„
Forty-four years and five children later, the winery is flourishing, with no less a wine expert than Jancis Robinson praising one of their bottles for its ‘complexity and grunt’, while Decanter magazine’s Steven Spurrier enjoyed the ‘vigorous individuality’ of another, declaring it ‘brilliant’.
James said: “We tasted many wines in our search for the perfect house offering at the Pipe and Glass – the Mas de Daumas Gassac
Introducing the three wines to diners at a special evening at the Pipe and Glass, Basile confided that ‘the secret is in the vines’ – and offered the profound advice that, to run a successful business, you must ‘do what you love, and love what you do’.
Andrew Firth, of Firth and Co, said: “Mas de Daumas Gassac is one of France’s great wine estates. I’m honoured to be bringing their wines to the Pipe and Glass.”
three were head and shoulders above the rest. We’re delighted to be able to offer them to our customers at the Pipe and Glass.”
A geologist friend was enthusiastic about the soil, but warned them: “It’s quite possible to make a Grand Cru here – but it would probably take 200 years for it to be recognised and accepted!”
With typical French brio, Basile – one of
It was a gauntlet the couple couldn’t resist – well, Aimé was a glovemaker, so that sort of thing probably came naturally to him.
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Autumn – Winter 2014 | 11
Game on
The festive season seems to be getting longer every year, with more and more people taking the whole week off work – sometimes, the whole fortnight, depending on when the main holiday days fall – to spend with family and friends.
It can be a strain on any cook’s creativity to come up with fresh ideas to take you through the Christmas and New Year period. Luckily, they fall at a time of year when we’re still benefitting from autumn’s huge bounty.
I know I bang on about game every year, but really, it’s just the best! It’s lean, so it’s healthy – and if you get to know your local butcher, and find out what’s in season, it’s extremely cost-effective. And I’ve noticed that more and more supermarkets are stocking at least a small range of game each
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autumn these days, so it’s relatively easy to get hold of. Best of all, though, are those rich flavours – just the thought of dishes featuring pheasant, grouse, partridge, wild duck, rabbit, hare and venison is enough to make my mouth start watering.
In the next few pages, you’ll find new recipes that I’ve developed here at The Pipe and Glass recently, all of which are perfect for an autumn or winter feast. There’s a smoked mallard salad just
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bursting with great flavours, including cranberries and clementines – and if you’re a keen cook, you’ll know that smoking your own meat, fish and even vegetables is very much of the moment, with manufacturers offering small-scale smokers for the domestic market. You can even knock your own together with a few basic bits and pieces – I found instructions online for one made from a cardboard box, but have no intention of giving you the link to that site – I don’t want to be held responsible for the blazes that will surely result!
I’m also giving you a fabulous pheasant dish, with flavours of parsnip, parkin and pickled brambles. Anyone who loves pheasant will tell you that it has to be handled carefully or it can be as dry as that aforementioned cardboard box – that goes for most game birds, by the way, as they’re so low in fat. Cook it my way, and I guarantee a delicious, succulent feast.
And finally, a show-stopping dessert – white chocolate and cranberry bread-andbutter pudding with a sumptuous satsuma and cranberry suzette sauce. If that doesn’t have you ditching the traditional brandysoaked Christmas pudding this Year, I don’t know what will!
Elsewhere in this issue of The Pantry, you’ll also find some ideas for easy Christmas gifts – homemade ‘Crunchie’ bars, spicy ginger parkin, and to wash it all down, a simple but delicious bramble schnapps. Here’s wishing you all a great Christmas, a fabulous new year, and a healthy and prosperous 2015.
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12 | The Pantry
Recipes
Autumn – Winter Recipe photography: Great British Chefs greatbritishchefs.com
Starter Smoked mallard salad with crispy duck heart croutons, clementine and cranberry relish SE RV E S: 4
Ingredients FOR T H E SA L A D:
4 mallard breasts 50g salt 1 tsp crushed juniper berries Zest of 2 clementines Smoking chips 75g semi-dried cranberries 100g salad leaves 4 clementines 1 tbsp chopped chives 12 duck hearts 200ml orange juice 100g white breadcrumbs 50g plain flour 2 eggs 4 slices air-dried ham FOR T H E CR A N BE R RY A N D CL E M E N T I N E R E L ISH
1 bag of fresh cranberries 100g caster sugar 1 pinch of saffron 1 cardamom pod (crushed seeds) 8 clementines
Method 1. M arinate the mallard breasts: mix the salt, juniper and orange zest and rub onto the breasts. Leave to marinate in the fridge, covered, for at least two hours. Remove from the fridge and rinse off the marinade; pat dry with kitchen paper. 2. P lace the smoking chips in a small stovetop smoking unit and heat up until smoking hot. Place the mallard breasts onto the rack, close the lid and smoke for around 15 minutes over a gentle heat on the stove. When they are smoked to taste, remove the smoker from the heat and leave to cool with the mallard inside. When cool, cover and refrigerate the mallard until needed.
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3. T o make the duck heart croutons: trim any sinew off the duck hearts and place in a pan with the orange juice. Cook with a lid on at a gentle simmer for about three hours until tender (I cook them sous vide in the orange juice). Remove and leave to cool, cut in half and pass through the flour, egg and breadcrumbs. When needed deep fry for about one minute at 180°C until golden and crispy.
4. S egment the clementines and place the segments from four of them with all the other relish ingredients into a saucepan. Cook for 10 minutes over a medium heat, or until the segments have broken up. Strain the fruit, reserving the liquid.
5. P lace the cooking liquid back into pan and reduce over a high heat until it becomes a sticky syrup; stir constantly. Roughly chop all the cooked fruit, then return to the syrup. Leave to cool. 6. T o make the salad, slice the mallard very thinly, place in a bowl with the four remaining segmented clementines, the roughly torn air-dried ham, chopped chives and the salad leaves. Dress with a simple vinaigrette. Serve topped with the warm crispy duck heart croutons and the relish.
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Autumn – Winter 2014 | 13
Main Roast pheasant breast, parsnip purée, parkin and pickled brambles SE RV E S: 4
Ingredients FOR T H E M A R I NA DE:
100ml rapeseed oil 1 tbsp juniper berries (crushed) 1 tbsp thyme (chopped) Salt and pepper FOR T H E PA RSN I P PU R É E
8 parsnips 200ml cream 100ml water Salt FOR T H E PICK L E D BR A M BL E S
200g brambles 200ml red wine vinegar 150g caster sugar 35ml water 3 star anise ½ tsp pink peppercorns 1 cinnamon stick 1 bay leaf
100g parkin (see page 16 for recipe) or dark ginger cake
Method FOR T H E PH E ASA N T
FOR T H E PA RSN I P PUR É E
TO PICK L E T H E BR A M BL E S
1. M arinate the pheasant breasts in the rapeseed oil, crushed juniper berries, thyme, salt and pepper – overnight, so the breasts take on the flavours.
3. F inely slice the parsnips, then place in a pan with the cream and water. Cover and cook until the parsnips become soft. Strain, reserving the cream. Add the parsnips to a blender, add a little of the cream and blitz until smooth and silky. Season to taste.
4. H eat all ingredients except the brambles together until the sugar has dissolved. Allow to cool. Add the brambles and allow to pickle for at least one hour.
2. O nce marinated, shallow fry in a hot frying pan, skin side down, until golden brown, then turn the breasts over and place in the oven at 190°C for five to six minutes. Remove, and rest for at least five minutes before serving.
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5. C rumble the parkin into small pieces and place on a baking sheet in the oven at 190°C for three to four minutes to slightly dry out.
6. I like to serve this dish with some buttered shredded sprouts or kale. Place the pheasant breast onto the sprouts or kale with a spoon of the parsnip purée topped with a little of the parkin crumb and garnish with two or three brambles.
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14 | The Pantry
Dessert White chocolate and cranberry bread-and-butter pudding with satsuma and cranberry suzette SE RV E S: 8 -10
Ingredients FOR T H E BR E A D -A N D - BU T T E R PU DDI NG:
FOR T H E CUSTA R D:
10 slices of stale white bread 2 tsps ground mixed spice 150g semi-dried cranberries 150g butter, softened 200g white chocolate buttons 2 tbsps demerera sugar
500ml milk 500ml double cream 80g caster sugar 4 eggs 6 egg yolks
FOR T H E SATSUM A A N D CR A N BE R RY SUZ E T T E:
6 satsumas 75g semi-dried cranberries 200ml fresh orange juice 200g caster sugar 100g butter
Method 1. F irst make the custard: beat the eggs and sugar together in a bowl until pale. Pour the milk and cream into a saucepan and heat to a simmer; remove from the heat, pour over the egg and sugar mix, and mix well. 2. B utter an ovenproof dish. Remove the crusts from the sliced bread. and butter all the slices on one side. Cut the slices in half.
3. S tart by spreading a layer of the buttered bread to cover the bottom of the dish, slightly overlapping the bread. Sprinkle with a good pinch of mixed spice, some cranberries and some of the white chocolate.
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4. P our over some of the custard to cover the first layer. Repeat this process in layers until you have used up all the ingredients. Press down firmly, cover with clingfilm and then set in the fridge overnight to give the bread chance to soak up all the custard.
5. M ake the satsuma and cranberry suzette by segmenting the satsumas, place the sugar in a non-stick pan and heat until it turns to a golden caramel colour. Remove from the heat and add the butter. Shake the pan to mix it in, pour in the orange juice and return to the heat, bring to the boil and reduce until
it reaches the consistency of a nice caramel sauce. Add the cranberries and satsumas and just warm through.
6. R emove the bread and custard mix from the fridge and sprinkle with some demerera sugar. Bake in the oven at 160°C for 30 to 40 minutes, or until it feels firm to the touch: do not overcook it. Remove from the oven and spoon over the warm satsuma and cranberry suzette sauce.
7. S erve with custard. I sometimes flavour the custard with cloves to give a real taste of Christmas.
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In heaven, it is always autumn…
notes – and, yes, they would work perfectly well. But why go for the obvious? Such sublime flavours would be enhanced by Bin Mâcon-Uchizy 2010 Domaine Talmard, Mallory & Benjamin. With its subtle hint of French oak, and great minerality with good levels of acidity and citrus fruit, it supports and develops the flavor of the pheasant and allows the balance of the parsnip and bramble to come through without covering all the flavourful notes that a heavier wine might.
As most of my friends will tell you, just about every time of year that gives me an excuse to match wine with wonderful seasonal food is in fact my favourite time of year. However, autumn is without doubt my real favourite, as it offers unlimited choice for chef and wine buff alike – happy days! I have chosen wines to match James’ autumn recipes on the previous pages – and they are making my mouth water in splendid anticipation.
The first dish is smoked mallard salad with crispy duck heart croutons, clementine and cranberry relish. This immediately evokes memories of weekends spent walking through woodlands in autumn with the musky, loamy smell of the woodland floor, foraging along the hedgerows for autumn
And finally, what meal is complete without a really good pudding? White chocolate and cranberry bread-and-butter pudding with satsuma and cranberry suzette – thank you, James! White chocolate, famously rich and unctuously ‘moreish’, with acidic little gems of cranberry – it’s already a great balancing act: what on earth will add to this fabulous dish? berries, and working in the garden burning piles of leaves that give off clouds of white smoke with their unmistakable damp leaf aroma.
Such evocative images and smells lead me to one grape in particular: Pinot Noir, the king of red grapes. Difficult to grow, and even more difficult to make into great wine, this wonderful grape is a native of northern climes and loves warm autumn days with cool evenings, its tannins being derived from the pips rather, as in the other well-known varieties, from the skins. The classic nose for Pinot from colder climates has a vegetal hint, with warm soil
and autumn fruit, so a perfect match in every way. The wine in question, produced in northern France, centrally in the Loire Valley, is Bin Bourgueil Cassiope 2011 Domaine de la Chevalerie. Its subtlety and elegance are wonderful: this is not the big new world Pinot Noir, but the more subtle and complex cooler climate style. I am sure you will thoroughly enjoy every sip. James’ main course recipe is pheasant breast with parsnip purée, parkin crumb and brambles – and you may be somewhat surprised to see that the wine I have chosen to match this dish is a white. Many people would expect Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, with their bramble and plum
When in doubt, I always say go for the wine that epitomises autumn in a glass: Tokaji Aszu, 3 Puttonyos, Crown Estate. Before you devour your pudding, just take time to savour the golden nectar in your glass. Candied apple, Seville orange, and maybe a little lemon zest: a wine of the gods if ever there was one. I do hope you enjoy your meal and remember – a little of what you fancy always does you good! Simon Kershaw House of Townend
The Cellar Door is an award winning wine shop based at our new Head Office in Melton. Open to the public, we stock a range of amazing wines from all over the world from great everyday drinking wines from £5.99 through to some fabulous fine wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy & the New World. We also have a dedicated tasting area where we host numerous wine tastings, lunches & dinners.
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Oh, I wish it could be Christmas every day… …mainly because I love any excuse to whip up a batch of goodies for my loved ones. I’ve chosen three favourite recipes which tick all the right boxes: they’re easy to make for the home cook, make fantastic presents (and really, is there anything nicer than a home-made gift?), and are easy enough to involve all the family, although I advise caution if little ones are helping with the cinder toffee chocolate bites – see recipe!
Christmas tree parkin Use a silicone non-stick Christmas tree mould to make these festive treats. This recipe will make about 18 parkin trees, and my mould has six trees in it, so you’ll need to buy three – or bake three times! You can also go online to find pretty corrugated cardboard moulds, in which you could leave the parkin so that the moulds are part of the packaging. A snowfall of icing sugar once cool, as in our picture, makes these extra seasonal.
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I NG R E DI E N TS: M A K E S A BOU T 18 T R E E S
200g self-raising flour 4tsp ground ginger 2tsp ground nutmeg 2tsp mixed spice 150g oats 200g golden syrup 50g black treacle 200g butter (plus extra for greasing) 200g soft brown sugar 2 eggs, beaten
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1. P re-heat the oven to 160°C. Add the oats to the flour and spices. Put the syrup, butter, treacle and sugar into a pan and melt together over a low heat. Meanwhile, grease the Christmas tree moulds with plenty of butter. 2. W hen the syrup is hot, add the beaten eggs and oat mixture to the pan, and mix well. Ladle into moulds, filling about three-quarters full. Cook in the oven for 10 minutes, or until a knife comes out clean – the trees should spring back to the touch. 3. R emove onto a wire cooling rack, and cool before wrapping.
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Cinder toffee chocolate bites I t used to be known as ‘hokey pokey’; kids these days probably think of it as Crunchie bars. Cinder toffee is also known as honeycomb, sea foam and puff candy. But whatever you call it, this simple, crunchyyet-chewy treat is always welcomed – and even more so when it’s covered in lovely dark chocolate. ids will love helping out with this recipe, as, when the bicarbonate K of soda is added, the mix fizzes up in an alarmingly volcanic fashion – so, while I always encourage parents to involve their kids in the cooking, I advise caution on this one: we don’t want anyone burning themselves! I NG R E DI E N TS
75g honey 540g sugar 5 tablespoons of water 20g bicarbonate of soda 300g good quality dark chocolate buttons 1. P ut the honey, sugar and water into a deep pan (it needs to be deep as the mix will bubble up to the top) and bring to the boil. Continue boiling until the mix turns light golden in colour. Remove from the heat and immediately whisk in the bicarbonate of soda – this is when the mix will really bubble up, so be careful. 2. Pour onto a tray lined with greaseproof paper, and allow to cool.
3. W hen cool break into bite-sized pieces by tapping with the heel of a knife. 4. M elt 200g of the chocolate in a bowl over a pan of hot water (don’t allow the water to touch the bottom of the bowl, remove from the heat and add the other 100g of chocolate to melt. While the chocolate is still runny, dip and coat the pieces of cinder toffee in it, then lay onto some greaseproof paper or a silicone matt and allow to set. 5. Package in pretty glass jars, boxes or clear plastic sweet bags.
Bramble schnapps There’s nothing nicer than a nip of something warming at Christmas, and it’s even better if it’s been specially made for you by someone who loves you… A small bottle of this would make a lovely gift accompanied by a couple of little liqueur glasses. There’s a huge assortment of prettily coloured ones online – or you could scour your local charity shop to find vintage engraved or painted ones, often for just a few pence.
1. P our the vodka into a large saucepan with the sugar and warm gently over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Place the brambles into a large bottle or Kilner jar and pour the warm vodka over the fruit – pouring it over warm accelerates the release of the fruit’s flavor. 2. L eave to stand for about four weeks, then strain before drinking ice cold. Or place a few of the brambles into small individual bottles and add the vodka for great gifts.
I NG R E DI E N TS: M A K E S T WO 750M L BOT T L E S
2 x 750ml bottles vodka 200g of wild brambles or bought blackberries 300g caster sugar
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18 | The Pantry
Portrait of the artists It’s become something of a tradition – each year for the past few, during the Abergavenny Food Festival, James has made the trip to Wales to be part of a team cooking for fundraising dinner. The event is organised by his old mate Stephen Terry (with whom he shared screentime on the BBC’s popular Saturday Kitchen earlier this year), chef owner at The Hardwick, where the dinner is held.
This year’s team comprised James, Stephen, Kevin Gratton (chef/director for Mark Hix), Andrew Pern (chef/owner, Star at Harome and the Star Inn the City, York), Ben Tish (executive chef, Salt Yard Group) and Dominic Chapman (chef/owner, The Beehive, White Waltham, Berkshire). And the six came away with a unique souvenir of the occasion – this caricature by talented artist, Mark Chilcott.
“Mark’s done an amazing job,” says James. “He’s captured us all perfectly!”
For more information on Mark Chilcott, visit: http://markchilly.blogspot.co.uk or follow him on twitter: @mrmarkchilcott (where, somewhat alarmingly, he describes himself as ‘Illustrator. Werewolf. Gentleman’!)
Little People’s
menu competition Create a menu and WIN Sunday lunch at The Pipe and Glass Inn for your family! And who knows, we might even add your dishes to our Little People’s menu… The best menu, as chosen by James, will win a family Sunday lunch for four people and a sneaky look around our kitchens. If you are 12 years old or under, all you have to do is create a three-course menu and make up a name for your own restaurant/pub.
Menu Starter:
Main course:
Dessert:
Name of your restaurant or pub: Draw a picture of your dishes here if you wish:
Please fill in the form below, Please give us your email address and/or telephone number (these will only be used to contact you if you have won): Name:
Address:
Age:
Tel.
Please either fill out this form and return by post to: Little People’s competition, The Pipe and Glass Inn, West End, South Dalton, Beverley, East Yorkshire, HU17 7PN, or email (with a scan of your drawing if you’ve done one), with 'Little People’s competition' in the subject line, to: email@pipeandglass.co.uk Closing date for entries is 1 March 2015. The winning prize of a three-course Sunday lunch is excluding drinks and subject to terms and conditions.
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The NIBs
Times top 100
A Tasty Tour… Keep an eye out in the near future for a new book, A Tasty Tour of Yorkshire. Published by the Hallmark Millions Makers team, and featuring recipes by chefs from restaurants, bars, cafés, delis and food vans across Yorkshire, the book (including a recipe from guess who?) will raise funds for The Prince’s Trust, which supports 13-to-30-year-olds who are unemployed and those struggling at school and at risk of exclusion.
The news in brief Saransh Goila and James cooking in the garden
Globetrotting The Pipe and Glass has welcomed some fascinating international travellers in recent months. First to pay a visit was Saransh Goila, Indian ‘super chef’ and butter chicken specialist, who filmed a segment with James for his TV show.
Then glossy magazine publishers Condé Nast China rolled up at the Pipe a few weeks later to shoot a feature for the Chinese edition of their gorgeous Traveller magazine.
The list is put together from the views of customers, rather than anonymous inspectors, and compiled by the newspaper in association with Harden’s restaurant guide.
And The Sunday Times readers’ verdict on the Pipe and Glass? “This ‘outstanding’ gastropub gets just one complaint: ‘Wish we lived nearer.’”
The awards organisers with James, from left, Ed Sweeting, Rob Farnsworth, James, Helen Watson and Mark Farnsworth
Networking… James was delighted to lend a hand as a judge of the inaugural Beverley Food Festival and East Yorkshire Local Food Network Awards earlier this year.
The awards, which celebrate East Yorkshire’s local food and drink industry, were a collaboration between Beverley Town Council, East Riding Council and East Yorkshire Local Food Network.
Helen Watson, Beverley Town Council Clerk, said: “We’re very grateful to James for the work that he does to support local producers; his expertise was invaluable on the judging panel.” “We have some superb food and drink producers in our area and I’m proud to use them at The Pipe and Glass,” said James. “I’m happy to lend my support to this new awards scheme and to help promote East Yorkshire businesses.”
James was also a resident chef at the Beverley Food Festival in early October, an event which attracted an estimated 25,000 people.
Macmillan demo James was the star attraction when Bridlington and District Macmillan Cancer Support Committee held a fundraising evening recently. The venue was the Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School, and James did a cookery demo for 60 guests. The evening raised £1,550 for the charity.
War of the Roses A pair of culinary tag teams faced off in the second annual War of the Roses at The Freemasons at Wiswell in Lancashire this summer.
In the red corner, representing Lancashire: Steven Smith from The Freemasons and Paul Askew, chef director of the London Carriage Works and new restaurant The Art School, both in Liverpool. In the white corner, for Yorkshire: our very own James, plus former Great British Menu finalist and fellow Yorkshire Coast College alumnus Charlie Lakin, from the Marquis at Alkham in Kent.
“They won,” admits James (a tad grumpily, if truth be told). “But the North Yorkshire lads put up a good fight!”
Tying the knot On 24 November, James Mckay, known to all as Jimmy, and Robyn Freeman get married! Jimmy is the Pipe’s longestserving chef, having been with James and Kate since the day they opened back in 2006, and Robyn has worked front of house at the pub for the past few years. th
Best wishes to them from James, Kate, and everyone else at the Pipe and Glass!
The Team Editors at large: James, Kate, Toby and Molly Mackenzie Concept Creation Design & Production
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The Pipe and Glass team was thrilled to be named as one of The Sunday Times 100 Top Restaurants recently – one of just three in this region to make the prestigious list, alongside The Yorke Arms near Pateley Bridge and Samuel’s and Swinton Park Hotel & Spa in Ripon.
We can live with that…
Earlier in the year, The Pipe and Glass was also named as one of the top 50 UK restaurants with gardens in sister paper The Times. “We’ve always been proud of our glorious garden,” says green-fingered James. “And we’re currently undergoing work to improve it – watch this space in 2015!”
The Prince’s Trust Million Makers challenge is an entrepreneurial fundraising competition, which sees talented teams from companies across the country competing to raise funds.
Two Chefs dinner The Likely Lads are at it again. James and former boss and great friend Andrew Pern (who describes James as a ‘former Star Inn star’) teamed up recently to create a special Two Chefs evening at Andrew’s latest venture, the Star Inn the City in York. The menu, much of it featuring the delicious Two Chefs ale which the pair developed for the Great Yorkshire Brewery in Cropton, featured a starter, main course and pudding from each chef, allowing diners to mix and match
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Our new build Looking good in the autumn sunshine
Dates for your diary Friday 14th November 2014 – cookery demo by James at the Living North Christmas Fair, York Racecourse, 12.30pm: www.livingnorth.com Monday 1st December 2014 – Yorkshire Chefs dinner at The Devonshire Arms, Bolton Abbey: www.thedevonshirearms.co.uk Saturday 13th December 2014 – James to judge the East Riding of Yorkshire Council Christmas bake off competition: www.eastriding.gov.uk Wednesday 31st December 2014 – New Year’s Eve dinner at the Pipe and Glass: www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Words by Jeannie Swales and photography by Tony Bartholomew (unless otherwise credited) www.turnstonemedia.co.uk
We want to hear from you – comments about The Pantry, and suggestions for future stories, are always very welcome. Please email pantry@pipeandglass.co.uk
January 2015 – new bedrooms open at the Pipe and Glass – see page 8 for more Wednesday 4th March and Wednesday 17th June 2015 - cookery demo days with James at the Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School: www.yorkshirewoldscookeryschool.co.uk Thursday 21st May 2015 – following last year’s sell-out event with leading artist Bob Barker, enjoy an evening of fine art and fine food in association with the Artmarket Gallery and another-award winning UK artist. Please contact the gallery for more details: www.artmarket.co.uk
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Bob Barker - 'Table For Two' - see page 5. Exclusively available from www.artmarket.co.uk
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The Pantry | Autumn – winter 2014
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