The Pantry
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
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The newspaper of The Pipe and Glass Inn | Spring – Summer 2013 Meet the producer
The Pantry caption competition page 5
S t aal Smokehouse page 7
Win a delicious bottle of Pipe and Glass house champagne and a signed copy of James’ book, On the Menu
Spring lamb
Recreate The Pipe and Glass at home – delicious recipes | page 12-15
Page 13
James and the giant and Easter egg | page 4
A real passion for East Yorkshire James Mackenzie’s passion for the place he lives in has won him a remarkable local accolade. The chef/owner of the Pipe and Glass Inn was awarded the Remarkable East Yorkshire Passion Award for 2013 by Visit Hull and East Yorkshire. The award is given each year to the person nominated and selected www.thepantryonline.co.uk
by the Visit Hull and East Yorkshire board who, in their view, has made the greatest contribution to tourism in our region in the previous year. James said: “I’m thrilled with this award. Both my wife Kate and I are genuinely passionate about this part of the world, especially as our two children are growing up here. It’s great to contribute to the success of the area.”
VHEY, said: “The tourism experience we offer in Hull and the East Riding has never been better.
“ B oth my wife and I are genuinely passionate about this part of the world, especially as our two children are growing up here”
Andy Gray, tourism manager for
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“We wanted to highlight James’ role as an ambassador for tourism in East Yorkshire, and the national accolades that he and the Pipe and Glass have been awarded.”
The awards ceremony took place at the Mercure Grange Park Hotel, Willerby, in March.
The world's heaviest flying bird — the great bustard | page 2
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
Not on the menu!
It’s hard to believe that less than 200 years ago the magnificent great bustard was commonplace around South Dalton.
The world’s heaviest flying bird, the male averages around 90cm to 105cm tall (2ft 10in to 3ft 5in), with a wingspan of between 210cm and 250cm (6ft 10in to 8ft 2in) and can weigh up to 16kg, or around 35lb.
The great bustard became extinct in this country in the 1830s, possibly due to its spectacular appearance making it popular as a sporting trophy – on the exhaustingly exhaustive, but excellent, website Victorian Taxidermy www.taxidermy4cash. com/dorman.html, which documents the collection of Thomas Hudson Nelson at the Dorman Museum in Middlesbrough, can be found heartbreaking accounts of communities of bustards wiped out for sport.
Cooked for supper A Mr WH St Quintin, in an account from 4 March 1902, says: “In the churchyard at Lowthorpe is buried Agars, for some time keeper in our family [who] once killed 11 great Bustards at a shot on the Wolds.”
And a Mr Hebden recalled that in about 1811 he saw ‘five large Bustards on Flixton Wold, that number continuing there at least two years, when two were killed; the remaining three still continued on the same Wold for at least one year, when two disappeared, leaving the solitary bird, which, after a length of time, was severely wounded by Sir William Strickland's keeper, and found some days afterwards in a turnip field near Hunmanby, by the huntsman of the Scarborough Harriers, and secured’. Mr AS Bell adds that this poor bird ‘was brought to Scarborough and cooked at a supper given by the hunt’.
" T he last Bustards which frequented the southern portion of the Wolds were in the vicinity of North and South Dalton"
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The site also tells us that ‘the last Bustards which frequented the southern portion of the Wolds were in the vicinity of North and South Dalton. There is an egg, the only Yorkshire one known to exist, in the Scarborough Museum, the note www.pipeandglass.co.uk
attached to which states it was found by James Dowker of North Dalton, in the East Riding, in 1810… in 1816 or 1817 James Dowker killed two Bustards near North Dalton, with a right and left shot.’
Reintroduction programme The bird in our picture, now in the taxidermy section of the Scarborough Collections at Scarborough Museums Trust, was shot near Foxholes in 1819.
If, however, you’d prefer to see the live version in the wild, The Great Bustard Group (www.greatbustard. org) is attempting to establish a self-sustaining population of great bustards in Wiltshire and create practical conservation measures for the birds in Russia, from where it sources birds for the UK project.
But even if the Group succeeds in its aim – James promises faithfully that great bustard will never, ever turn up on the menu at the Pipe and Glass.
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
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Timeline
Our timeline showing the history of The Pipe and Glass Inn was a major talking point in the last issue of The Pantry, and brought us up to date with the launch of the newspaper last autumn.
September/October 2012 The Pipe and Glass Inn retains its Michelin star for the fourth year in a row.
Top chefs Richard Corrigan and the legendary Pierre Koffman drop in for a game lunch on their way to a day’s shooting at Allenheads in Northumberland, and pronounce the place ‘absolute perfection’ – see page 5
November 2012
Left to right: James, Pierre Koffman and Richard Corrigan.
James’ cookery demonstration at The Cellar Door at Melton (www. houseoftownend.co.uk) raises £800 for the Dove House Hospice charity. The annual Pipe and Glass Christmas fair raises over £400 for the village hall fund.
James and Kate enter the world of publishing with the twice-yearly newsletter, The Pantry. The Pipe and Glass is yet again named as one of the UK’s top one hundred restaurants at The National Restaurant Awards. James’ gives a cookery demonstration at York Food and Drink Festival.
James cooks as part in the annual Devonshire Arms food festival, showcasing a six-course tasting menu of his signature dishes on a sell-out night at the award-winning Burlington restaurant.
December 2012
Two Chefs Winter Spice ale is released – see pages 8 and 9.
“Mais oui. Ze Cointreau – ze warmth of we French. Ze ice – ze cool of you English. Put zem togezzer and… ” James’ book On the Menu is named as Best First UK Cookbook 2013 in the prestigious international Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, run by the Cointreau family.
James launches new cookery competition in conjunction with the Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School. The Golden Apron aims to find Yorkshire’s best young chef.
January 2013 Pictures of The Pipe and Glass surrounded by deep snow prove popular with Twitter users, who retweet them over and over.
Celebrations when the Pipe and Glass Inn is named in the top five in a prestigious national awards scheme for gastropubs. The pub takes fourth position in the Budweiser Budvar Top 50 Gastropub Awards, beaten only by the twoMichelin-starred Hand & Flowers in Buckinghamshire, the Sportsman in Kent, and previous winner The Star at Harome. James says: “The Pipe and Glass may be Michelin-starred, but I’ve always said that running a good local pub is equally important to me, so this accolade is particularly pleasing.”
February 2013 James makes a massive Easter egg! Over three feet high, and weighing in at 20kg-plus, It’s raffled to raise funds for the South Dalton Village Hall.
The Times newspaper holds its exclusive Times+ dinner for members at The Pipe and Glass. James and his team devise and cook a tasting menu, served with matching wines.
March 2013 James opens a new cookery demonstration kitchen as part of the first floor private dining room, the Hotham Room.
The draw of the grand raffle to find a lucky winner for James’ giant Easter egg takes place on Easter Sunday.
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
James and the giant Easter egg
A little eggs-tra help for the community of South Dalton – James has created a huge Easter egg to raise funds for the village hall The spectacular decorated egg contains 20kg-plus of Callebaut dark chocolate, plus pastillage decoration. It’s being raffled at the Pipe and Glass to raise funds for the South Dalton village hall. Tickets for the raffle are £2 each, or three for £5. Tickets must be bought before 6pm on Easter Sunday, 31 March –
the prize draw will take place that evening.
The Pipe and Glass giant Easter egg has become a tradition in the village of South Dalton since James and Kate took over the venue in 2006. The raffle has raised thousands of pounds for the village hall – last year alone, it raised over £800.
" T he decorated egg contains 20kg-plus of Callebaut dark chocolate"
James says: "The village hall is a central part of life in South Dalton. Both of our children have attended playgroup
there, and the hall hosts many other groups and events that are essential to a thriving community. At one point, the hall was falling into a state of dangerous disrepair, and there’s an ongoing renovation project. We're delighted to be able to support it in this way."
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To buy a ticket for the Pipe and Glass Easter egg raffle, please call 01430 810246, or call in to the pub during opening hours: noon to 11pm Tuesdays to Saturdays, noon to 10.30pm Sundays (closed all day Mondays). For a more in depth look at the making of the giant easter egg visit www.thepantryonline.co.uk
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
I bet he drinks Carling Black Label Well, he probably did, actually – or at least a prototype of it. This severelooking Victorian gent is none other than Thomas Carling, founder of the global brand. And he was born and grew up less than two miles from The Pipe and Glass, in the village of Etton, where his parents are buried in the churchyard.
Originally a farmer, Carling and his family emigrated to Canada in 1818 and settled in what is now the city of London, Ontario. His home-brewed ale proved popular, and eventually he took up brewing full-time. The first
The Pantry caption competition You obviously had lots of fun with the caption competition in the first edition of The Pantry, and we had nearly as much fun reading them.
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Carling brewery had two kettles, a horse to turn the grinding mill and six men to work on the mash tubs. Carling sold his beer on the streets from a wheelbarrow.
In 1840 Carling began a small brewing operation, selling beer to soldiers at the local camp. In 1878 his sons, John and William, built a six-storey brewery which was destroyed by fire only a year later. Thomas Carling helped to fight the fire, and shortly afterwards died of pneumonia. But the brand he established, and the Carling name, are now known worldwide.
And shave off his beard, and don’t you think he’d be a dead-ringer for James Martin? Glass was optional, not collar and lead essential.” But ultimately, there could be only one winner, and it was David Atkinson, who won vouchers to the value of £50 to spend at the Pipe and Glass. His winning caption was: “Best place for us is out in the cold – we don’t want Toby thinking we are hot dogs.”
Not surprisingly, doggy bags were a recurring theme, as in this entry from V Heslop: “Cheer up now, you get the best doggy bags in East Yorkshire here.”
Enter this season's caption competition
We also liked Joanne Aldren’s: “Who knew I’d fade in the wash!” Neal Rimmer’s: "Ok, so you've mopped the floor and I've done the dusting – I wonder what James wants us to do next?" And Chris Longhorn’s: “Hey! You told me that dress code at the Pipe and
If you don’t get it – see page 14 of the last issue!
"Absolute perfection" “On the way we stop at the Pipe and Glass for a game lunch. Absolute perfection and just what you want to get you focused for a day of shooting.”
Those are the words of no less a chef than Richard Corrigan, writing on his blog. And the ‘we’ he refers to includes a chef who, if possible, is even more stellar – legendary French chef Pierre Koffman. The pair and their party stopped by the Pipe and Glass late last year, and www.thepantryonline.co.uk
were clearly as taken by the area as they were by the pub: “James Mackenzie and his wife Kate have got a beautiful restaurant up there, and the produce from that area is unbelievable.” Barring a ghostly recommendation from August Escoffier himself, it doesn’t get much better!
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Tell us what they're saying Take a good look at the picture above, of James with children from Bay Primary School in Bridlington, and tell us what they're saying.
All you have to do is write a witty caption for our picture, and send to pantry@pipeandglass.co.uk
by 30th June 2013. The best entry will be chosen by James and Kate Enter our caption competition, and you Mackenzie, and published in the next could win a delicious bottle of Pipe and issue of The Pantry, along with a Glass house champagne and a signed selection of runners-up. copy of James’ book, On the Menu. Terms and conditions This competition is open to all readers of The Pantry except Pipe and Glass employees and anyone connected with the competition. Entry to the competition is via pantry@pipeandglass.co.uk, and the winning entry will be published in the next issue. All entrants must supply their names and email addresses. The Pipe and Glass will only ever use email details for the purposes of administering this competition, and will not publish them or provide them to anyone without permission. Judging will take place on 1 August 2013, and the prize will be posted within the fortnight. The prize is a bottle of Pipe and Glass house champagne, and a signed copy of On the Menu. There is no limit on the number of entries a person can make. The Pipe and Glass reserves the right to cancel or alter or amend the competition at any stage, if deemed necessary in its opinion, or if circumstances arise outside of its control.
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
A traditional craft in a modern age
Meet the producer
There aren't many trees in Iceland, so the smokehouses there have to be inventive – they use dried sheep manure. Unsurprisingly, it smells appalling. But the end product is delicious.
Just in S t aal,
It's the kind of obscure-but-fascinating fact that Justin Staal, of Staal Smokehouse, throws into conversation the way other people show off their knowledge of FA Cup winners. In a former life, he worked for high-end travel companies which ran specialist trips for freshwater fishermen – the kind of holidays most of us can only dream of, where the participants stay in luxury camps and are collected by helicopter to be taken to remote fishing locations each morning.
When he wasn’t accompanying them, Justin would stay behind at camp and take a keen interest in the local treatment of the catch.
Oleg’s belly button
"In Russia, I learned smoking techniques from Oleg – he must have weighed 23 stone, and wore T-shirts that never went below his belly button. They were more like crop tops," he says.
of S t aal Smokehouse
and his wife Georgina, and two sons Archie, now six, and Sebastian, three, decided they'd like to move back north to her family's farm at Long Riston, East Yorkshire, they started casting around for ideas to set up a business. Both loved food, so they considered installing fishing lakes, or a pig unit for charcuterie; or growing garlic.
Winner of 'Best Fish and Seafish' in the deliciouslyorkshire awards 2012
"In Iceland, they use dried sheep muck. The smell is unbelievably bad, but the taste is to die for. They smoke things that wouldn't go down too well in this country, though – guillemot, Icelandic pony. But they also smoke entire lamb shanks; something I'd really like to try." A couple of years ago, when Justin
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"And then my father-in-law gave me an article about smoking that Mark Hix had written, and said: 'Look, this is what you need to do. It's what you
did in Russia'. And he was right." So right, in fact, that Staal Smokehouse opened just before Christmas 2011, and by Christmas 2012, Justin was working 72 hours at a time with only one five-hour sleep break just to keep on top of his orders. The hot smoked salmon had also won the title of Best Fish and Seafish in the 2012 deliciouslyorkshire awards
He was also supplying both hot and cold smoked salmon to East Yorkshire's only Michelin-starred restaurant – the Pipe and Glass Inn. And when Justin describes the Icelandic smoked lamb, and how he'd like to add it to his repertoire (although without the sheep manure element), you can see the cogs in James' brain whirring to create new dishes around the ingredient.
Justin admits that he was nervous about approaching James at first. "The palate of a chef like James is so good," he says.
But James is full of praise for Justin's product. "Whenever I'm looking at a new supplier, I have to weigh in the balance whether their product is worth it – will my customers be willing to pay that little bit extra for it? Justin's stuff definitely falls into that category - it's certainly not style over substance," he says.
One-man band
A tiny operation – Justin is a one-man band, with occasional help on the paperwork from Georgina – Staal Smokehouse currently produces a small, but select, range of products; hot and cold smoked salmon and trout, gravadlax, smoked mackerel, chicken and duck. On the day we visit, he's just added haddock to the menu. Everything is sourced locally, with the exception of the salmon, which comes from fully accredited and sustainable farms on the west coast of Scotland the closest you can get, Justin says, to wild salmon, which he would prefer to use, but which is currently threatened. The fish and meat is brined before smoking – the salt helps the smoke flavour to adhere to the flesh – then smoked over oak and apple. Even his two smoking cabinets are locally sourced, coming from AFOS of Hull, one of the world's leading suppliers of smoking equipment.
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He’s a one-off, a true artisan – just the kind of supplier James enjoys using. You can see more from James' visit to Staal Smokehouse at www.thepantryonline.co.uk or alternatively check out www.staalsmokehouse.co.uk
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
Take two chefs... ...and a day at a brewery. The result? Fun and beer!
You’re invited to a development meeting to create a new beer for a major brewery.
Wouldn’t it be nice to think that it was going to be a bunch of people with a shared interest in food and drink, standing around in a cosy bar, having a laugh, drinking beer and throwing ideas around?
But actually, you think, it’s more likely to be a cold and clinical affair: a sterile unit, all stainless steel and smelling of bleach, and thronged with marketing supremos with an eye only on profit margins, and white-coated food development specialists with degrees in chemistry…
A relaxed affair
Well, you’d be wrong: or at least you would if you were invited to a development meeting for Two Chefs beer at the Great Yorkshire Brewery in Cropton. When James and old buddy Andrew www.thepantryonline.co.uk
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
Pern, from the Star at Harome, went to Cropton last autumn to come up with ideas for the winter version of Two Chefs, the second recipe they’d created for the brand, it was a very relaxed, hands-on affair.
James, Andrew, brewery director Jo Taylor, head brewer Alan, and a very lucky writer and photographer, joined forces at the bar to taste the range of Cropton beers and come up with a new recipe. Jo explained that at Cropton the development of a new flavour is very much an organic affair. “We literally take an existing beer, add the chosen ingredients, then leave it to steep for a few weeks,” she says. “Then we taste it, see if it’s working – the adding flavourings might need longer to infuse, in which case we reseal and leave a bit longer, then keep tasting till we feel it’s right. Or they might already be a bit too strong – in which case, we’ll start again, but this time, taste it a bit sooner!” www.thepantryonline.co.uk
Years of experience Once the required flavour is reached – and has been approved by the two chefs whose names it will bear – the beer is passed to head brewer Alan, who uses his years of experience to figure out how to produce it on a larger scale.
At the winter beer development meeting, the talk was all of seasonal flavours. The original Two Chefs beer, created in the spring of last year, was a golden honey beer flavoured with lemon thyme – a zesty brew perfect for the warmer months.
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with the idea of a Christmas-cakeflavoured beer, with raisins, almond paste, and even glacé cherries, and there’s serious discussion about its possibilities, but it’s eventually dismissed as being probably too overfussy.
The final Two Chefs Winter Spice is a warming combination of nutmeg and cinnamon: an ale that will keep you warm until spring. And at just 4.0%,
you can enjoy a pint without feeling too guilty.
Two Chefs beer is available on cask at many good Yorkshire pubs – including, of course, the Pipe and Glass and the Star at Harome.
And the honey-and-lemon-thymeflavoured spring summer version is also going to be bottled, and will be available soon at a shop near you!
But with the winter chill about to descent, and Christmas on the way, the team was looking at bigger, bolder flavours: carefully sipping the range of halves that Jo had lined up on the bar, and imagining them with added ginger, cardamom, or cloves.
Nutmeg and cinnamon At one point, someone comes up
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
Awards time
Harris at the Sportsman in Kent; and old mate Andrew Pern at The Star at Harome.
They're the three who beat The Pipe and Glass into fourth place in the Budweiser Budvar Top 50 Gastropub Awards, organised by industry mag The Publican's Morning Advertiser.
Awards bring an extra thrill
Outstanding And James couldn't have been happier: "“It’s fantastic to be up there in such elevated company. Tom Kerridge is an outstanding chef, and
The Pipe and Glass is no stranger to awards. It was, after all, Michelin Pub of the Year in 2012 – and also retained its Michelin star for the fourth year in a row.
But some awards bring an extra thrill. When you're named as one of the top four gastropubs in the country by a jury of your peers – well, that's a serious kick. Especially when you're beaten only by top man Tom Kerridge, whose Hand & Flowers in Marlow was the first pub ever to gain two Michelin stars; chef 's chef Stephen
a worthy winner. Stephen Harris is a fantastic runner-up. And I was head chef at the Star at Harome before opening the Pipe and Glass, so its chefowner Andrew Pern is both a friend and mentor. “The Pipe and Glass may be Michelinstarred, but I’ve always said that running a good local pub is equally important to me, so this is really pleasing.”
Best UK debut cookbook
At the opposite end of the spectrum, James' cookbook On the Menu was recently named as Best UK Debut Cookbook of the Year in the international Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, run by the prestigious Cointreau family (yes, them – the liqueur lot).
Again, he was in great company – another winner was two-Michelinstarred Sat Bains, from Restaurant Sat Bains with Rooms in Nottingham, whose first book Too Many Chiefs Only One Indian won Best UK Cookbook in the same awards. Both exquisite books are published by Face Publishing.
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Spring forward Spring and summer. We tend to lump them together as the good times, when the days get longer and warm clothing can go back in the wardrobe for a while. But in fact they’re seasons of surprising contrasts. March can come in like a lion and go out like a lamb – and by August, autumn has begun to get a hold again and the days are getting distinctly mellower. Food has to change to reflect that – you can still need shoring up against leftover wintry weather in early spring; by late summer, it can be too hot and oppressive to want anything more than a light salad.
different kettle of rhubarb to the woodier outdoor version that’s appearing in the shops by April.
They’re frothy, man
As spring gives way to early summer, we start to get sea trout in the kitchen. It’s abundant of this coast at this time of year, and absolutely delicious. But it’s only around for a short time, so we grab it when we can. It’s amazing served as a tartare – you can find the recipe overleaf.
Their exquisitely delicate, perfumed taste is like nothing else
But of course, Mother Nature knows all that instinctively and tempers her produce accordingly. In March and April, rhubarb starts to make its first forays into the world. In the tiny nine or so square miles that make up the Rhubarb Triangle in West Yorkshire the rhubarb is forced, in huge, dark, heated sheds, deprived of light so it rushes upwards, desperate for sunshine and literally creaking as it grows. The end result is gorgeous pale, tender stalks – a somewhat www.thepantryonline.co.uk
Frothy white elderflowers start appearing at this time of year, too. Their exquisitely delicate, perfumed taste is like nothing else. I pick them and make elderflower cordial to drink and also to put in my Summer Berries with Elderflower Gratin – again, the recipe is overleaf.
cornerstones of so many recipes. And the later soft fruits are appearing, with blackcurrants and raspberries replacing strawberries – and even the odd very early blackberry on the scene. It’s a time to wallow in the luxury of warmth and lusciousness – and use all those vitamin-packed fruits to build up your immune system before the onset of winter.
Forced rhubarb
I like to make the most of it, and it appears in one of the Pipe and Glass’s signature dishes – Forced Yorkshire Rhubarb Trifle with Ginger Winesoaked Parkin Crumbs.
about the Pipe’s now traditional huge Easter egg, a real labour of love for me – but Easter is also a great time to order another of our signature puddings, Five Reasons to Love Chocolate. Chocolate-lovers’ heaven, it comprises a brownie, sorbet, a mocha mousse, a white chocolate brûlée and – the bit that always causes diners to gasp – chocolate orange cones. Well, you need a little indulgence to counterbalance all that gorgeous healthy veg that’s around at this time of year – purple-sprouting broccoli, spring greens, asparagus, delicious Jersey Royals, watercress…
This time of year, of course, is also about chocolate. You can read elsewhere in this issue of The Pantry
Late summer is a time of spectacular abundance. The veg patch is full to bursting – unless it’s a year like 2012, when the endless rain put paid to a few of our crops! Salad leaves, beans of all persuasions, fennel – and, of course, tomatoes, one of the www.pipeandglass.co.uk
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Recipes
The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
Spring – Summer Recipe photography by Jason Lowe
Starter Sea Trout Tartare with Salmon Scotch Egg Sea trout is in abundance off the Yorkshire coast in summer and is an ingredient that should be used when it's at its best in season. It's great thrown on the BBQ or as a fillet. When cooking, make sure that it's still pink when served, as it can become dry if overcooked. The fennel pollen in this recipe is quite hard to get hold of (and quite expensive), but is well worth the effort. It's fantastically fragrant and dried to a powder, so you only need a little pinch to get the full impact.
Ingredients: Serves 4 500g piece of sea trout fillet, skinned and pin boned 2 shallots 100g cornichons bunch flat leaf parsley bunch dill 2 tblsp mini capers 1 lemon 75ml rapeseed oil 1 dash Tabasco 1 tsp sea salt 200g crowdie (goat's curd), or cream cheese
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1. For this recipe you must make sure that your fish is really fresh. Place your fillet of fish in the freezer for about 30 minutes to firm it up. Then remove and slice and chop into little cubes whilst the flesh is semifrozen and the fish is easier to cut. Place the chopped fish into a mixing bowl. Finely chop the shallots and cornichons and add to the sea trout. Chop some parsley and dill, and add it to the mix with the capers. Add the zest and juice of half a lemon, a dash of oil, Tabasco and a good pinch of sea salt. Mix well, and taste to see if it needs more seasoning. Cover with cling film and chill in the fridge.
2. To make the scotch eggs, boil the quail eggs for 2 minutes, 20 seconds and place straight into ice water. Once chilled, peel very carefully as the centres are soft-boiled to create a runny yolk. Put the salmon, 100g of the crowdie and a little chopped dill into a food processor and pulse until bound together. Take a little of the salmon mix and flatten
it out, place 1 quail egg in the middle and wrap the mixture around the egg. Repeat for all of the eggs and set in the fridge to chill for at least 1 hour.
3. Take the salmon balls from the fridge and pass through the flour, beaten egg and breadcrumbs. Place back in the fridge until needed.
4. To serve, take the sea trout mix from the fridge and press it into a 5-6cm ring mould, leaving about 1cm at the top. Fill the remaining space with the crowdie, and then scrape over the top of the ring with a pallet knife, which will leave a perfectly smooth surface. Run a knife down the side of the ring to remove it from the mould. Place the sea trout in the middle of each plate. 5. Deep fry the scotch eggs for 2 minutes at 180°c/gas mark 4 until golden brown, and then cut in half and place the 2 halves on top of the sea trout. Garnish with the fennel pollen, herbs and a drizzle of rapeseed oil.
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
Main Hay-baked Lamb with Peas, Morel Mushrooms and Crushed Jersey Royals Baking the lamb on hay doesn’t necessarily give the meat an abundance of flavour, but it does keep it very moist and gives it a slightly earthy taste. Try cooking whole chicken this way too.
A Jersey farmer, Hugh de la Haye, bought a single 'odd-looking' potato in 1880 that had 15 'eyes'. He cut it into pieces and planted it all over a steep sloping field on his land. That single potato produced a crop of kidney-shaped potatoes with wafer-thin skin, which became known as the Jersey Royal.
Ingredients: Serves 4 2 racks of lamb, French trimmed English mustard 2 handfuls of hay 200ml water For the Jersey Royals 500g Jersey Royals, or new potatoes flat leaf parsley chives fresh mint 100g butter seasoning
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1. Pre-heat the oven to 180°c/ gas mark 4. Season the lamb and sear it fat side down in a frying pan to give it some colour, then seal the meat side and remove from the heat. Brush the meat with English mustard. In a saut. pan, or tray, put a bed of hay into the base and pour in about 200ml of water. Place the racks of lamb onto the hay and cook in the oven for 15 minutes at 180°c/gas mark 4, then remove from the oven and rest on the hay.
2. Boil the scrubbed potatoes in boiling salted water, drain and return back to the pan. Chop the fresh herbs and add them to the cooked potatoes with the butter, break the potatoes up with a fork, season and keep warm with a lid on. You must add the herbs while the potatoes are still hot so they absorb the flavour.
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3. Cook the peas in boiling salted water and remove half of them into a liquidiser. Add a few sprigs of fresh mint, a couple of tablespoons of melted butter, and a drizzle of water, and then pur.e until smooth. Refresh the other fresh peas in ice cold water to stop them cooking. Saut. the morel mushrooms in a little butter, and add the fresh peas, season and add a little chopped fresh mint to finish.
5. To serve, put a spoonful of pea purée onto each plate, carve and add the lamb, finish with the peas, morels, pea shoots, fresh mint sprigs and a spoonful of lamb sauce. Serve with the crushed Jersey Royals in a separate pot.
4. To make the sauce, chop up the lamb trimmings into 4cm pieces. Heat a large frying pan and fry the lamb trimmings until golden brown, pour the red wine into the pan to deglaze. Place the lamb trim and red wine into a saucepan with the redcurrant jelly, shallots, rosemary, a whole clove of garlic and chicken stock. Reduce the sauce until it becomes a strong-tasting, pouring consistency. Strain through a fine sieve into another saucepan.
For the peas
400g fresh peas fresh mint 100g butter 200g fresh morel mushrooms 1 punnet pea shoots 8 sprigs fresh mint cheese, grated For the lamb sauce
100g-200g lamb trimmings bottle red wine 4 tblsp redcurrant jelly 2 shallots, sliced 1 sprig rosemary 1 clove garlic 500ml chicken stock
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
Dessert Summer Berries with Elderflower Gratin and Lavender Shortbread You can use any assortment of summer berries in this dish and it always tastes great. Traditionally, the recipe uses champagne or marsala wine in the gratin sabyon, but I replace them with St. Germain elderflower liqueur or my own elderflower cordial. I make this by picking fresh elderflower flowers in late May and June and infusing them in a syrup with lemon juice.
Ingredients: Serves 4–6 Choose a selection of, or use all of the following berries: strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, loganberries, blackcurrants, tayberries fresh mint lavender flowers For the sabayon 4 egg yolks 2 tblsp cold water 75g caster sugar 1-2 measures St.Germain elderflower liqueur, or elderflower cordial
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For the Shortbread
150g butter 80g caster sugar 2 egg yolks 200g plain flour 2 tsp lavender flower petals 1 drop lavender essence, or oil granulated sugar
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1. For the sabayon, put the egg yolks, water, sugar and elderflower liqueur into a bowl and place over a pan of boiling water. Whisk constantly for 6-8 minutes until the mixture becomes light in colour and consistency. It should be a thick pouring consistency. You may need to let it down with some water. Remove from the heat. Cover with cling film and keep warm until required. 2. To make the lavender shortbread, cream the butter and sugar together, beat the egg yolks in and then sift in the flour. Mix by hand to a soft dough, but don't overwork the paste. Add the fresh lavender petals and essence. Roll into a sausage and sprinkle the
outside with granulated sugar. Wrap in cling film and set in the fridge.
3. Pre-heat the oven to 170°c/ gas mark 3. 4. Remove from the fridge and slice about 1cm thick, place on a nonstick baking tray, and then bake at 170°c/ gas mark 3 for 5-6 minutes. 5. Place your summer berries into a dish and pour the elderflower mix over the top, place under a hot grill and cook until golden brown. You can use a blowtorch if you wish. 6. Finish the gratin with sprigs of fresh mint and lavender flowers. Serve with the shortbread.
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
In the glass
Sea Trout Tartare with the Salmon Scotch Eggs
by James Goodhart ~ Bon Coeur Fine Wines
We have been working with James and Kate and the team at The Pipe and Glass for a number of years. It’s always great fun tasting and matching the wine with the fabulous food and helping to develop their wine list. Bon Coeur Fine Wine is an independent Yorkshire wine merchant, bringing the very best wine direct to the UK for our customers to enjoy.
When choosing your wine always look for the most dominant flavour in the dish. Sometimes it’s not the main part of the dish like the meat or fish; it can often be the sauce or the accompanying spices. Balance is the key: serve light-bodied wines with light delicate dishes and fuller-bodied wines with richer-flavoured food.
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A delicious combination shouting 'summer is here' – a Muscadet would work well, or a young crisp Chardonnay. However here I have chosen a Sancerre. Produced in small quantities by a Domaine Bernard Fleuriet, a family-run estate, this wine really stands out from the crowd. Made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc with 50% grapes grown on claylimestone soil which gives added richness and and 50% grapes grown in the stony, calcareous “caillottes” soils which add freshness and vivacity. It is uplifting and refreshing with delicate citrus notes and a dash of minerality, well balanced with a smooth satisfying finish. Wine Choice: Bernard Fleuriet Sancerre 2011 from the Loire Valley, France
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15 Hay-baked Lamb For me Pinot Noir is a great match. One of the most temperamental of grapes, it’s a winemaker's challenge with its thin skins and likelihood of attracting disease and rot. However, get it right and winemakers can produce deliciously smooth seductive wines, with ripe and silky tannins and juicy red summer fruit. Famed for producing some of the best red wines in Burgundy, in particular the Cote D’Or, Pinot Noir is now successfully cultivated outside of Burgundy, such as New Zealand, Australia and more recently Chile. This wine from Wild Rock in New Zealand is produced by Steve Smith MW of Craggy Range and has all the hallmarks of a fabulous Pinot Noir: mouth-wateringly smooth and juicy, full of red cherry fruit, with hints of wild herbs and a little spice on the finish. Wine Choice: Wild Rock ‘Cupid's Arrow’ Pinot Noir 2010 from Central Otago, New Zealand
Summer Berries with Elderflower Gratin A demi sec champagne or a Prosecco Bosca di Giga, Prosecco NV, Valdobbiadene DOCG would work well; however, I think a Prosecco would give the best combination. This DOC Prosecco is produced by the Adami family in the Colli Trevigiani area, in the Province of Treviso, Italy. At the Pipe and Glass, it is available by the glass. An elegant refreshing and uplifting wine, with elderflower notes and a delicate mousse. Wine Choice: Bosca di Giga, Prosecco NV, Valdobbiadene DOCG
Wine Editor: James Goodhart, Bon Coeur Fine Wines www.bcfw.co.uk
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
The Pantry Q&A We caught up with James in a rare moment of calm at the Pipe and Glass – here's what he had to say. James, what’s you’re first food memory? Yorkshire pudding is, I think, the first dish I ever made (and loved to eat!) when I was about five or six years old. I can remember cracking the eggs and whisking like mad, then my Mum would say: “Carry on, they need more air.” But I think that was just a ploy to keep me occupied: nothing to do with her recipe! Who or what inspired you when you were growing up? I know it’s a chefs’ cliché but I would have to say my Mum. She’s a great cook. I was baking Victoria sponge with her and winning first prize at The Filey Allotment Society Annual Show while my mates were off playing footy.
And which chef(s) have inspired you? There are loads. But I would have to say chefs like Terry Laybourne, Nigel Howarth, Paul Heathcote and Andrew Pern: great northern chefs who have shown what you can do with a passion for simple regional produce and dishes. Chefs like them showed that you could eat restaurant quality hot pot or black pudding dishes. I think they have hugely influenced the food we eat in restaurants and gastropubs today. Another real inspiration is Raymond Blanc. He’s a true gentleman and a great cook, and his restaurant, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, is a fantastic place.
And your favourite cookbook (and you’re not allowed to say On the Menu!)? It’s hard to choose just one as I have a vast collection lining the shelves in the aptly named Chefs’ Library, part of our private dining room at The Pipe and Glass. I buy cookbooks in the same way that Kate buys new shoes. But I love White Heat by Marco Pierre White, originally published in 1990: it was a true inspiration at the time for young chefs like myself, influencing generations of chefs to cook in the manner that we all do today. It has stunning food photography by Bob Carlos Clarke (including kitchen images of a very young Gordon Ramsay) and straight-to-thepoint writing from Marco. Some of his quotes from the book are fantastic: 'fingers were made for burning'! I
think this book really made cheffing something to be proud of as a profession. Which piece of kitchen equipment couldn’t you live without at The Pipe and Glass Inn? My Athanor stove – the Ferrari of cookers. It cost about £50,000 six years ago, but is still worth every penny. It still looks brand new and is used for 14 hours a day, nearly every day.
Have you ever dropped a culinary clanger? When I was in my first year at college, I was making lemon meringue pies and the Kenwood mixer fell off the bench and fell apart. No one saw it happen so I carried on and made four great big pies, but only sold
one portion – and guess what was in that portion? A nut and bolt. My tutor made me go out and apologise personally to the diner who’d bought it – that certainly taught me a lesson! What’s your guilty food pleasure? Beans on toast.
What would you choose to be your last meal? A massive shellfish platter, eaten overlooking the Caribbean, washed down with a bottle of good white Burgundy.
Name your three favourite ingredients All game, English asparagus and forced Yorkshire rhubarb.
…and the one ingredient you couldn’t be without. Salt.
What’s your favourite restaurant (and you’re not allowed to say The Pipe and Glass!)? We don’t get out much! But I would say Simpsons Restaurant in Birmingham. I still love the Star at Harome, and if we are out for tea with our kids – Pizza Express.
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Private eye What could feel more special than a delicious Sunday lunch for you and your nearest and dearest, served in the luxurious, and very exclusive surrounding of The Hotham Room and Chefs’ Library at the Pipe and Glass? For just £45 per person, you can enjoy canapés with your pre-dinner drinks in the cookbook lined Chefs’ library followed by an intimate Sunday lunch with roast sirloin carved at the table and James’ legendary Yorky Puds.
The private dining room experience is for a minimum of six up to a maximum of ten people.
Set menu £45 per person Canapés on arrival served in the Chefs’ Library Oak-smoked salmon with a hot smoked salmon Scotch egg and tartare salad Roast sirloin of beef (carved at the table) with Yorkshire pudding, ale and onion gravy, seasonal vegetables and duck fat roast potatoes Mastering The Art Of Luxury Eyewear
Strawberry cheesecake with marinated strawberries, strawberry lime and basil sorbet, black pepper and sesame tuile Coffee and chocolates
For further information on private dining at the Pipe and Glass, please call 01430 810246, email us at email@pipeandglass.co.uk or visit our website: www.pipeandglass.co.uk
13a Saturday Market B eve r l ey East Yorkshire HU17 8BB Tel: 01482 868 039
e y e s i te1
19 Saint Augustine’s Gate Hedon East Yorkshire HU12 8EU Tel: 01482 890 621
96 King Street Cottingham East Yorkshire HU16 5QE Tel: 01482 845 651
www.eyesiteopticians.co.uk
Edition 150
e y e s i te t w e e te r s
Paul Kenton | Amsterdam Moods
A classic after noon stroll across the bridges and canals of Amsterdam, both lined with boats and bikes for which the city i s f a m o u s ; t h e p e r f e c t w a y t o e x p l o r e t h e r e l a x e d c i t y.
w w w. a r t m a r k e t . c o . u k
Call: 01723 892222
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www.Wold Top Brewery.co.uk
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197 Hallgate, Cottingham, HU16 4BB Te l . 0 1 4 8 2 8 7 6 0 0 3
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
Bring me sunshine
Romanticism The new Collection by Lawrence Coulson As the artist referred to as a 'modern day Turner', Lawrence Coulson's latest collection, 'Romanticism' is a stunning set of six limited eidition pieces. Lawrence Coulson generously gives us what we like and need, those feelings of solitude and escape in wide open spaces under heavens so high they might reach to the edge of the universe. It is logical, therefore, that his work should win awards from arts bodies and plaudits from enchanted and satisfied collectors.
The simple fact is that the human condition’s default position is a desire to be in an open space. We love the country, we like to be reminded of it whenever possible and many of us work all year in order to enjoy a few days reacquainting ourselves with the restorative feelings we believe it supplies. Yes, we all want to believe that looking at woods and meadows, and being there alone surrounded by the immensity, beauty and incomprehensibility of it all,
Pork and cider. Just the thought of those two gorgeously complementary ingredients is enough to make the mouth water. And for all you committed carnivores and enthusiastic ciderphiles out there, Sue Nelson has the perfect day trip planned. www.thepantryonline.co.uk
Living inside an electrical envelope insulating us from nature, as we all do now whether we like it or not, Lawrence’s dramatic and liberating scenes are more necessary than ever. As long as there are fields and busy clouds left in these islands, there will be a need for landscape pictures to remind us of who we are and where we came from, and to provide an escape to quieter places when need dictates.
Make your own sausages
Telling porkies!
Pork and cider
has magical properties of reinvigoration.
Sue runs Yorkshire Food Finder, which organises trails around the county’s culinary highlights. One, with the intriguing title of Telling porkies!, takes in two of our favourites Jameses – James Mackenzie (of course!) and renowned sausage-maker James White. The trail, which takes place on 10th April 2013, starts with a delicious lunch of James White sausage sandwiches at The Pipe and Glass Inn
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Guests will then be ferried to the nearby village of Hutton Cranswick, where James White and his team will show them round the small private abattoir at the back of his premises where they humanely slaughter the livestock reared on three local farms (but not the actual slaughtering process). James will explain why he believes his methods preserve the quality of the meat because the animals are treated with dignity and are not distressed. And guests will even have the chance to try their hand at making their own sausages…
Then it’s back to the Pipe to meet Rob Gibbon, who makes delicious Moorlands Farm Yorkshire Cyder at North Newbald, just another stone’s throw away: it’s served on hand pump at the Pipe. It’s the perfect accompaniment to James White’s meats and sausages, as guests will discover when, after a tour of the Pipe kitchens and a short cookery demonstration from James Mackenzie, they’ll sit
The Romanticism Collection by Lawrence Coulson is now on show at The Artmarket Gallery in Cottingham view in gallery, online at www.artmarket.co.uk or call 01482 876 003. Lawrence Coulson | Come With Me Signed canvas edition of 95 Image size 16 ¾" x 42" Framed £650
Art Editor: Robert Power
down to a gourmet feast using both ingredients.
A traditional staple
As Sue Nelson says: “As East Yorkshire’s only Michelin-starred chef, James Mackenzie has won a welldeserved reputation for serving up as much local and seasonal produce as possible where, first and foremost, quality counts. Small wonder, then, that James White sausages are a traditional staple on The Pipe and Glass Inn menu and have been from the start.”
Yorkshire Food Finder tours cost £150 per person, and include all travel between venues and food – dinner drinks not included. And for details of other Yorkshire Food Finder tours to the Pipe and Glass, please see opposite page. To book for Telling porkies!, please visit www.yorkshirefoodfinder.org
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The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013
The
NIBs
The news in brief
God help them The good people of Bray won’t know what’s hit them on Monday 22nd July when Team Yorkshire descends on their picturesque village. The gorgeous Michelinstarred pub, run by Nick Parkinson and Dom Chapman, has arranged a visit by six stars from God’s Own County.
Chefs James Mackenzie, Andrew Pern from The Star at Harome and Selby-born Richard Guest, from Augustus in Taunton (and former head chef at Dom’s dad Kit’s place, the Castle Hotel, also in Taunton) will provide the food.
And the Yorkshire crack will come courtesy of Nick’s dad, former chat show host Michael Parkinson, and cricketing legends Geoff Boycott and Dickie Bird. For more information on the Team Yorkshire event, please call the Royal Oak on 01628 620541 or visit www.theroyaloakpaleystreet.com
Dates for your diary Sunday 3rd March | Heats for the coveted title of The Golden Apron, the Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School’s search for Yorkshire’s best young chef. Followed by, on Monday 29th April, the final at The Pipe and Glass Inn. The winners will be mentored by and cook alongside James. Tuesday 4th June | James is guest chef for the evening at the amazing Art Deco Neaversons Tea House and restaurant in Huddersfield: www.neaversons.com Tuesday 9th July | James will give a cookery demonstration and sign copies of On the Menu in the game tent at the Great Yorkshire Show:
The team
Editors at large: James, Kate, Toby and Molly Mackenzie Concept Creation Design & Production www.graphicpower.co.uk
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Tweet tweet tweet
Fire-breathing Whatever you do, don't call her a dragon. Jo Taylor, owner of the Great Yorkshire Brewery (formerly the Cropton Brewery) will be going into battle on behalf of beer at a special St George’s Day event at The Pipe and Glass Inn. Jo will take up arms against Andrew Firth, of Firth & Co Wine Merchants, who’ll make the case for wine as the perfect accompaniment to dinner at the Michelin-starred restaurant.
The two combatants will present their ideal liquid partners to each course of a three-course meal of very English food to celebrate the saint’s day of the country’s patron saint, St George. Diners will sample the drinks, and hear from the pair as to why theirs is the best. At the end of the evening, diners will cast their votes as to who slayed the other. Tickets for the event, to include a fivecourse dinner and drinks, are at the very special price of just £50 a head. It takes place, of course, on St George’s Day – Monday 23rd April (also the birthday of William Shakespeare, just to add to the Englishness of it!). For more information, please call The Pipe and Glass on 01430 810246 or visit www.pipeandglass.co.uk
www.greatyorkshireshow.co.uk
Wednesday 10th April Wednesday 17th April Wednesday 4th September Thursday 12th September Wednesday 25th September: Yorkshire Food Finder dates at the Pipe and Glass – see page 18 for full story.
Sunday 6th October | James gives a cookery demonstration at the annual Beverley Food Festival.
Words by Jeannie Swales and photography by Tony Bartholomew (unless otherwise credited) www.turnstonemedia.co.uk
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Dream team Yorkshire grit, Italian brio and a regally connected writer – the four patrons of this year’s Malton Food Lovers Festival have been announced. James joins a quartet which also includes his old friend Andrew Pern, chef-owner of The Star at Harome; northern Italian chef, food writer, and founder of the eponymous chain of restaurants, Antonio Carluccio; and food writer and broadcaster (and son of a certain Camilla) Tom Parker Bowles. Each patron will be cooking live on stage and signing copies of their books, including James’ On the Menu. And, new to this year’s event, they’ll each be giving cookery lessons in the brand new Malton Cookery Tent. The festival takes place in Malton’s town centre on Saturday 18th and Sunday 19th May. For further information, please visit www.maltonfoodfestival.co.uk
Skills for chefs
If not, you could be missing out on all the latest from your favourite pub – the team tweets regularly, including fascinating behind-the-scenes glimpses of the latest ingredients, dishes in development, and news of upcoming events. Join the in crowd by following @pipeandglass
Tweets #springisontheway #wildgarlic in abundance in @pipeandglass garden pic.twitter.com/oPRJn2Gd
Blood orange pancakes vanilla ice cream @pipeandglass #pancakeday pic.twitter.com/JC4cu9eH
James will be heading to Sheffield in July to take part in the Skills for Chefs exhibition – he’ll be doing a series of masterclasses on Wednesday 10 th July. The aim of the two-day event, organised by the University of Sheffield and Sheffield City College, is to showcase the talents of leading chefs, share skills and knowledge, spotlight topical and political issues and network with colleagues and suppliers.
Great to see such high standard of cooking as young as 14 ! #nextgenerationofchefs #goldenapron
Other leading chefs taking part include Sat Bains, Eric Chavot and Sarah Hartnett. For further information, please visit skillsforchefs.org.uk
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A perfect summer's evening at the Pipe and Glass Inn Photograph by Tony Bartholomew
The Pantry | Spring – Summer 2013