The Pantry
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2012
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The newspaper of The Pipe and Glass Inn | Autumn – Winter 2013 Meet the producer
Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil
Just as this issue of The Pantry was about to go to print, we heard the fantastic news that the Pipe and Glass had retained its Michelin star for the fifth year in a row. Well done all!
page 7
Season of mists Page 11
Recreate The Pipe and Glass at home – delicious recipes | page 12–14
Let's celebrate! It’s been a summer of celebrations at the Pipe and Glass Inn, with the team being awarded not just one, but two, major awards. In early July, the Pipe and Glass went head to head with national café bar chain Loungers for the Pub and Bar Award in the Cateys, known as the ‘Oscars’ of the restaurant industry – and won. James and Kate went to a glittering awards ceremony in London, where renowned actor Simon Callow, star of Four Weddings and a Funeral, presented them with the bronze statuette.
The Catey Awards presentation: from
left, Simon Callow, Peter Goodey of Peros Coffee, sponsors of the Pub and Bar
Award, Kate and James, and Mark Lewis, Group Editor, Caterer and Hotelkeeper.
The Guide describes the Pipe as an ‘attractive dining pub with a proper bar area, real ales, interesting modern cooking, good service, garden and front terrace’. Kate said: “We’ve always wanted the Pipe and Glass to be a great local pub that also serves fantastic food. This award means that we’re achieving both aims.”
“Wow – we won!” said James. “We’re very proud to be bringing this award back to Yorkshire and our hard-working team at the Pipe and Glass. “Everyone in the business wants to win a Catey because the winners are selected by industry insiders.” www.thepantryonline.co.uk
Then in August, the news came through that the Pipe had been named as County Dining Pub of the Year for Yorkshire in the prestigious Good Pub Guide 2014.
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The Good Pub Guide is a national institution − a bible for pub-goers. "We have thousands of loyal readers who report to us all the time,” says Fiona Stapley, joint editor. “They keep us in tune with how a pub is doing and we take their comments into serious consideration when choosing an awardwinning pub.”
God rest ye merry gentlemen | page 8
A spoonful of sugar — the lost recipe of East Yorkshire sugar cakes | page 5
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The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2013 Natural clay pan tile
Natural clay pan tile
Natural clay pan tile
Room at the Inn
Exciting new plans are afoot at the Pipe and Glass for next spring, with the addition of three new rooms for overnight accommodation.
WEST :
Conservatory
Painted brickwork
The Pipe already has, of course, two gorgeous boutique suites to let for those who don’t fancy the drive home after dinner: the sumptuous goldand-aubergine Thyme, and the sleek and movie-starry silver-and-black Sage.
Natural clay pan tile Outline of trees to rear
Natural clay pan tile
EAST :
The sumptuous gold-andaubergine Thyme
Painted brickwork
Painted brickwork
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Outline of trees to rear
Existing shed
Existing Lime (17m high / 7.3m crown radius)
Existing shed
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Existing Beech (12m high / 7m crown radius)
Natural clay pan tile
Proposed single storey bedroom accommodation - Bedrooms 3, 4 & 5
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NORTH :
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Painted brickwork
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The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2013
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Existing trees to rear
Existing bar and restaurant
Existing bedroom accommodation
Natural clay pan tile roof
Timber brise soleil
SOUTH WEST :
Painted brickwork
WEST :
Timber boarding
Proposed bedroom accommodation
Existing painted brickwork
Painted brickwork
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Existing shed
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Existing painted brickwork
Existing painted brickwork
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Existing trees to rear
Proposed bedroom accommodation
Existing bedroom accommodation
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Line of existing hedge to frontage
Rooflights
Lead grey GRP roof with mop rolls
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..and the sleek and moviestarry silver-and-black Sage EAST :
Existing painted brickwork
Existing electricity pole - new cables to be laid from this point
Line of existing hedge
Painted brickwork
Line of existing hedge to frontage
Timber boarding
ROOF : @1:200
Timber brise soleil
Natural clay pan tile roof
Cut away to roof on drawing highlighting internal axis
GRASS
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TARMAC GRAVEL
By next summer, they should have been joined by three new double rooms with the same luxurious specifications. The five rooms will have complete privacy from each other for those who want it, with screened verandas, but share an outdoor living area, centring on a new herb garden to replace the one that will have been TE RE NC CO sacrificed to the new rooms. Kate says: “Our two suites are in huge demand, and often booked up months in advance, so it makes sense to expand. It also means that we can offer more flexible packages to
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our guests – a group of five couples celebrating something special, for instance, could book the private dining area upstairs, and then have the luxury of retiring for the night : to their own with breakfast KEYroom, : in bed, or Proposed in fine weather outside in the sharedExisting dining area, the following : morning.” Plans have been drawn up by the Skerne-based Yorkshire Design Partnership and, subject to planning permission, work is due to start on the new rooms next March.
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A spoonful of sugar
Enter The Pantry competition to WIN a signed copy of On the Menu and a bottle of house champagne If you have an interesting recipe tucked away that uses traditional ingredients, why not send it to us at pantry@pipeandglass.co.uk? James has always been interested in food history, so he was delighted a couple of years ago when the East Riding of Yorkshire Council unearthed a handwritten recipe for sugar cakes and asked him to recreate it. It dates from 1812, when Britain was bang in the middle of the Napoleonic Wars. “These ‘cakes’ are more what we would call biscuits these days, and reflect the food trends of the time,” says James. “In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, this country was consuming huge amounts of sugar and spices, imported from the Caribbean – the economy of entire islands was based on the production of sugar.
“I began by recreating the cakes as accurately as I could, but they were pretty hardcore for modern tastes – a whole ounce of cloves! So I adapted the recipe, and by trial and error came up with my own version, which features regularly on the menu at The Pipe and Glass, often with puddings such as ginger burnt cream with stewed rhubarb, or our lemon verbena posset. They’re a perfect complement, and have become one of our signature dishes.”
This set us thinking here at The Pantry – we reckon there must be loads of traditional recipes out there lurking in old recipe books. We’d love to see them, and maybe even try some of them – so our competition this issue is a recipe search.
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Don’t forget we’re looking for traditional recipes, ideally using local ingredients. They don’t even have to be practical for the modern cook – if your great grandmother’s cookbook contains a recipe for roast great bustard (see the last issue of The Pantry), we’d love to see it! The recipe which James and Kate like best will win this month's prize of a signed copy of On the Menu and a bottle of house champagne, and be printed in the next issue of The Pantry, along with a selection of the 'best of the rest'. Entries by 28 February 2014, please. Terms and conditions This competition is open to all readers of The Pantry except Pipe and Glass employees and anyone connected with the competition. Entry to the competition is via pantry@pipeandglass. co.uk, and the winning entry will be published in the next issue. All entrants must supply their names and email addresses. The Pipe and Glass will only ever use email details for the purposes of administering this competition, and will not publish them or provide them to anyone without permission. Judging will take place on 1 March 2014. The prize is a signed copy of On the Menu and a bottle of Pipe and Glass house champagne.
East Yorkshire sugar cakes – the 19th century version
East Yorkshire sugar cakes – the 21st century version
To make sugar cakes
Ingredients
Take 3 pounds of finest flower, A pound of fine sugar, clowes & mace each an ounc finely searced, 2 pound of butter, a little rose water, knead & mould this well together, melt your butter as you put it in then mould it with your hand forth upon A bord cut them round, lay them on papers & put them in an oven, be sure it be not too hot so let them stand til they be colourd.
250g melted butter 125g caster sugar 375g plain flour 2tsp nutmeg grated Ground cloves to taste Mix all the ingredients together into a dough, then roll into a thick sausage shape. Rest in the fridge for at least 30 minutes. Take from the fridge and cut into rounds 1cm thick. Bake like biscuits on a non-stick oven tray for 10 minutes at 170°C. Cool on a wire rack.
A nip in the air...
We got plenty of entries for the competition in the last issue of The Pantry, in which we asked you to come up with a witty caption for this picture of James showing off some live langoustines to children from Bridlington’s Bay Primary School.
The original sugar cakes recipe is preserved by the East Riding Archives Our favourite, chosen by James and & Local Studies Service at the Treasure Kate, was this from Hazel Kilner: House, Beverley: "Our teacher said there'd www.eastriding.gov.uk/leisure/arbe a nip in the air today!" chives-family-and-local-history/ Our thanks to them, especially CollecHazel was thrilled with her prize tions Officer Sam Bartle, for their help. of a bottle of Pipe and Glass house champagne, and a signed copy of On www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Method
the Menu. “That's fantastic!” she said. “I haven't won anything since I was a kid – it's made my day.” We also liked these entries: “Is that how they make fish fingers, James?” by Sandra Williams
"As selected by locally caught shellfish, the Dish of the Day is.... James Mackenzie!" by Michele Cooper
"You didn't tell us they could jump that high!” by Helen Porter and "Now everyone, this is what I call a light bite!" by Maggie Afford
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The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2013
Could you win The Golden Apron? Have you got what it takes to be Yorkshire’s best young chef? Then why not try your cooking hand at The Golden Apron award?
The Golden Apron is an opportunity for aspiring young chefs between the ages of 14 and 19 to compete in a simple-to-enter cookery competition with fantastic prizes and some great money-can't-buy opportunities, including a day cooking with James and the team at the Pipe and Glass. The best 16 entries will be invited to two heats at the Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School and asked to cook a pork dish in front of judges from the school, the sponsors and James. The best eight cooks from the heats will go on to compete in the semi-
finals and three finalists will get a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be mentored for a day and cook alongside James and his team as part of the gala dinner at The Pipe and Glass Inn. The best contestant will be awarded the title of The Golden Apron 2014 and be offered a work
placement with Cranswick PLC working on the Sainsbury's account with their new product development team.
"Cooking in a real kitchen with James was a dream come true."
Last year’s winner, 15-yearold Philippa Lister, from Wakefield, said: “Cooking in a real kitchen with James was a dream come true. I’ve always
ben passionate about local food and cooking, but I’ve learnt so much over the last few months.”
Entries for the 2014 competition close on 31 st January 2014. For more information: www.yorkshirewoldscookeryschool. co.uk/thegoldenapron Supported by JSR, The Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School and The Pipe and Glass, and sponsored by Cranswick PLC and Sainsbury.
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Meet the producer Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil
Striking gold The future’s looking extremely bright for Adam and Jennie Palmer.
The couple live on a farm in a remote and gorgeous area of East Yorkshire with their young family - charming Charlie is three, and baby Ivy Beatrice was born in mid-September - and their business, also fairly young, is flourishing. They formed Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil in 2008, planting around 50 acres of the crop, which is so riotously acid yellow when we visit in mid-June, it hurts the eyes. So why is rapeseed their crop of choice?
“I think you’ll get the same answer from virtually any rapeseed farmer you ask,” says Adam. “We started out looking for cheap fuel. It’s what every farmer needs. But then when
you start growing and harvesting the rape, you realise what an amazing crop it is, and what potential it has as a food product.”
Beloved by leading chefs everywhere, including our very own James, rapeseed oil is healthy – masses of Omegas 3, 6 and 9, antioxidants aplenty and half the saturated fat of olive oil – has a high burn point, and is delicious and extremely versatile: as the Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil motto, emblazoned on the back of all the company t-shirts, says, you can use it to ‘dip, drizzle, roast, bake, fry’.
As well as their basic range of coldpressed extra virgin rapeseed oil, the Palmers have developed a range of dressings and flavoured ‘deli oils’. One of James’ favourites is the cold-pressed extra virgin with black pepper – perhaps because he was the inspiration for it.
“I’d made some of my own, using the Palmers’ basic oil, to drizzle on straw-
berries,” he explains. “They really liked it, and have ended up adding it to their range of products. I use it at the Pipe and Glass, along with their basic oils, for deep-frying, dressings, bread – everything, really. I also use their lovely mint and balsamic dressing.”
Such is the demand for the Palmers’ range of oils, that their farm at picturesque North Breckenholme, Thixendale, can no longer supply enough seed – they’re having to buy in from neighbouring farms.
But they like to keep things local – all of their seed is sourced from within a ten-mile radius of home. It’s what makes the flavour special, Adam insists.
“Our policy is to buy from the Wolds,” he says. “I believe it’s the chalky soil round here that gives the oil that special flavour.” www.thepantryonline.co.uk
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The Palmers also like to keep things in the family. The business has the couple at the heart of it, but other staff members include Adam’s mum and dad Esther and Ben (who, when he’s not helping out his son and daughter-in-law on the farm, works in a very different oil industry, captaining a tanker for Shell), Ben’s sister Siobhan and Adam’s childhood friend Lucy.
“I think Matthew’s the only one who’s not related!” says Adam.
And goodness knows they need the staff – business is booming, and a glance at the Palmers’ website shows that they set themselves a punishing schedule of food events, shows and markets around the county and beyond. For more information on Yorkshire Rapeseed Oil, and where to find the Palmers, please visit: www.yorkshirerapeseedoil.co.uk
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The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2013
God rest ye merry gentlemen
With Christmas coming, there can be no cosier place to celebrate with a get-together of family and friends than The Pipe and Glass Inn. There’ll be the usual gorgeous seasonal menus in the bar and restaurant, of course – but if you fancy something even more special, why not book your own private table?
The private dining suite comprises the The Hotham Room and Chefs’ Library: the ultimate way to celebrate your special occasion, or hold a corporate meeting. This exclusive suite can accommodate between six and ten people, with bespoke tasting menus by James. Your festive special occasion would start in the cookery-book-lined snug lounge, The Chefs' Library, where you can enjoy pre-dinner champagne and canapés, before moving into The Hotham Room to enjoy your
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choice from a selection of six-course seasonal tasting menus specially designed by James. Then it’s back to the Library for coffee, petits fours and maybe another drink or two.
For larger parties the airy conservatory offers Pipe and Glass Inn hospitality with views across the gardens to the stunning Dalton Park. It features large bespoke reclaimed wooden tables with dining from eight to 28 people, and offers James' seasonal menus individually tailored to your requirements. The Pipe and Glass offers exclusive use of the conservatory for parties of 20 or more. For further information on private dining for both personal and corporate occasions, please call 01430 810246 or email@pipeandglass.co.uk
Glass Christmas Fair take place on the evening of Monday 4th November. And it’s all for a very good cause – while you browse a selection of gorgeous gifts, and enjoy a glass of aromatic mulled wine, you can bask in the glow of knowing that all profits from the entry fee will go towards the upkeep of the South Dalton Village Hall fund. James will be around to sign copies of his award-winning On the Menu, (named as Best First UK Cookbook in the prestigious international Gourmand World Cookbook Awards 2013), and stalls will include: • Pipe and Glass produce for Christmas orders
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Sadly, Christmas isn’t always the most restful time of year, especially with all that shopping to do. But if you’re keen to get ahead, and have a bit of early festive fun, this year’s Pipe and
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• Delicious produce from James White Butchers of Hutton Cranswick • Rare breed salamis and chorizos from Three Little Pigs
• Oils and dressings from Yorkshire
Rapeseed Oil (see page 7 for more information)
• Tim Bulmer – artist and cartoonist specialising in wine and sport • Fantastic cards from the Phoenix Trading Card Company • Fabrics and homeware by Sue Bentley
• Artworks by Julia Burns of Red Hen Originals of Helmsley • Country clothing and gifts • Portrait photography
• Organic clothes for children • And much more…
Doors open at 6.30pm and tickets are £2.50 (at the door) – the entry fee includes a glass of mulled wine. The Pipe and Glass bar will be open from 6.30pm for drinks only.
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The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2013
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Season of mists
Ah, the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness is upon us again, and Christmas hot on its heels – which means it’s a whole year since we launched The Pantry! Where does time go?
Autumn, of course, is always a very special time in the culinary calendar, for the professional chef and keen home cook alike. It’s when we reap the benefits of all that summer sun and rain, and start to think ahead to the chilly winter days – it’s nice to have a few little treats tucked away in the kitchen cupboard to remind you of the glories of summer, and keep you warm until spring. That’s when jams and jellies, chutneys and pickles, and preserves of all kinds, come into their own.
What could be nicer after a bracing walk on a freezing winter’s afternoon than sitting by the fire with a pot of tea and English muffins, toasted and slathered in good butter, then topped with raspberry (or strawberry, or blackberry, or plum, or whatever your own particular favourite happens to be) jam, made with fruit from your own garden?
Chutneys are remarkably easy to make, and you don’t have to stick to the usual suspects such as apple, and beetroot – why not branch out into more exotic ingredients? There’s a lovely recipe in my book On the Menu for mulled quince chutney. It involves mulling the fruit in red wine and port, so is pretty luxurious, but is easy to make and tastes gorgeous with game terrine, cheese, or one of my signature dishes, hare and juniper pasties. Perfumed and velvety, quinces were difficult to come by until recently (unless you knew someone who had a bush or tree in their garden), but now they turn up fairly regularly in greengrocers.
"The season of mists and mellow fruitfulness."
Or, if you prefer the savoury, how about luscious, melting cheese on toast with your own chutney?
tempting in the hot weather: you need something to keep you warm at this time of year!
We Brits are masters of the pudding – treacle tarts, suet puddings, sponge puddings, fruit pies and, perhaps the queen of them all, the not-so-humble crumble. Fill a deep dish with seasonal fruits – apples, rhubarb, foraged blackberries – perhaps spiced up a little with some cinnamon or ginger, or whatever else takes your fancy. Top it with a crisp blanket of crumble – you can add oats, ground or flaked almonds, or even a little chocolate if you want to be seriously indulgent.
You will, of course, need something to eat all these wonderful preserves with, and for my money at this time of year there’s nothing better than game. Hare, rabbit, pheasant, partridge, grouse, woodcock, snipe, wild duck, venison – even the words make my mouth water. This is the time of year for some ribsticking puddings, too – none of those frothy, light confections that are so www.thepantryonline.co.uk
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Recipes
The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2013
Autumn – Winter Recipe photography by Jason Lowe
Starter Crab, carrot and coriander salad with toasted hazelnuts and sea salt flat bread Ingredients: Serves 4-6 For the salad
500g fresh white crab meat ½ cucumber 1 green chilli 3 carrots 1 bunch fresh coriander 2 limes 1tbsp crème fraiche Rapeseed oil 80g hazelnuts (shelled) 1 punnet micro coriander (optional) For the flat bread
10g fresh yeast 90ml tepid water 5g salt 5g sugar 25ml olive oil 210g strong plain flour 10g parmesan (grated) 10g sea salt 1. Cut the cucumber in half lengthways, remove the seeds and cut into small dice. Deseed and finely chop the chilli. Place the cucumber and chilli in a mixing bowl with the crab meat, crème fraiche, the zest and juice of 1 lime and ½ bunch and chopped coriander mix and season with salt and pepper, cover and store in the fridge until needed. 2. Peel the carrots and shred them lengthways on a mandolin to form a ‘spaghetti’ of carrot. Place in a
Condiment Mulled quince chutney This chutney is served with the hare pasty on page 13, but also it goes well with game terrine or cheese. Quince is in season in the autumn and is part of the same family as pears and apples. It’s very hard and bitter until cooked – don’t try eating it raw. Quince paste or ‘membrillo’ is traditionally served with cheese. Quince is also nice roasted in honey or poached in red wine and served with game dishes.
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bowl with the rest of the chopped coriander, juice of 1 lime, 1 tbsp rapeseed oil and a good pinch of salt leave to marinade in the fridge.
3. Toast the hazelnuts and remove any skins by rubbing in a clean t-towel. Roughly chop the nuts.
4. To make the flat breads, dissolve the yeast in the tepid water, add all the other ingredients to a mixing bowl and pour in the water, mix to a dough, knead until smooth. You can do this
Ingredients: Makes about 1 litre 8 quinces 1 large white onion 1 Bramley apple 2tbsp sultanas 1 stick cinnamon 1 star anise 2 cloves 250ml red wine 100ml port 400ml red wine vinegar 500g sugar
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on a mixer and the dough hook or a food processor. Cover the bowl with cling film and leave to prove in a warm place until doubled in size. Remove the dough onto a lightly floured bench and knock back, this means to knead the dough again. Divide the dough into four equal balls. Roll through a pasta machine to the number 2 setting, lay all the triangles onto a non-stick baking sheet, brush with some olive oil and sprinkle some sea salt flakes on, bake in the oven at 160°c until crisp.
1. Peel the quince and cut into about 3cm chunks. Discard any seeds and the tough white inside of the quince. The quince will start to oxidise but this won’t affect the finished chutney. Place in a large saucepan. Peel and chop the onion, peel, core coarsely grate the apple, and add these to the pan. Place the star anise, cinnamon and cloves in a piece of muslin cloth and tie up with string, then add to the pan. Add the sugar, red wine, port and vinegar and bring all the ingredients to the boil, then turn down to simmer, stirring every ten minutes to prevent burning. If the chutney does
5. To serve place a large cutter in the middle of the plate and spoon some of the crab mixture into the ring and lightly press down.
6. Take the carrot mix, twist some round a fork and place on top of the crab mix. Dress with the hazelnuts, micro coriander and spoon some of the marinade from the carrots around the plate.
start to catch on the bottom, transfer to another pan immediately. Carry on cooking the chutney for two to three hours until it starts to have a glossy texture. If there is a little too much liquid turn the heat up to reduce. 2. When the chutney is ready remove the spice bag and transfer to jars and store with a tight-fitting lid. It should keep for a few weeks.
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The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2013
Main Hare and juniper pasties with pickled girolles I serve these pasties with a mulled quince chutney (see page 12) – they’re a great combination with the pickled girolles, and really cut through the richness of the hare. You can make these smaller and serve them as a canapé.
amount of black pepper over, then cover with tinfoil and place in an oven at 150°C for about three to four hours depending on the size of hares. You can tell when they are cooked as the meat should fall off the leg bones.
4. Strain off the cooking liquor into a saucepan, add the diced potato, then reduce by about two-thirds. Blend the butter and flour to a paste to form a beurre manié. Use this to thicken the hare sauce, adding a knob at a time and whisking in. Cook until a gravy
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consistency is reached, remove from the heat and add the rest of vegetables from the hare. Pick the meat from the hare while still warm and place in a bowl, pour the vegetables and sauce over the hare meat, chop some parsley and add to the hare mix. Combine all the ingredients, add a little more crushed juniper and check the seasoning.
5. Roll the pastry out and cut round a saucer or side plate (depending on how big you want your pasties to be), place some hare mix in the centre, brush a
little egg yolk on the edge and bring the sides up together. Crimp the pastry and brush the outside of the pasty with the egg yolk. You can sprinkle some sesame seeds on at this point if you wish. Rest for 20 minutes – or you could make them the day before and store them in the fridge. Bake the pasty at 180°C until the pastry is golden brown.
6. Serve the pasty hot with the pickled girolles and some salad leaves – the mushrooms are best slightly warmed through.
Ingredients: Makes 8 pasties For the shortcrust pastry
400g plain flour 300g butter 100g lard 1 egg Marjoram or sage For the hare
2 skinned and oven ready hares 3 white onions (peeled) 4 carrots (peeled) 1 leek 2 large potatoes (peeled) 4 sticks celery 2 bay leaves 2 sprigs of thyme 2 litre chicken stock 1 glass Madeira 1 tsp crushed juniper berries 100g butter 100g plain flour Bunch of flat parsley 2 egg yolks Sesame seeds (optional) For the pickled mushrooms
150g girolle mushrooms 100ml white wine vinegar 2 shallots (finely sliced) 1 tsp pink peppercorns 1 tbsp sugar Salad leaves 8 slices of cured air-dried ham
1. To make the pastry, sieve the flour into a mixer with the beater attached, add the fat and mix until you have a fine crumb. Add the egg, a pinch of salt and a teaspoon of chopped marjoram or sage. Bring the pastry together, adding a little cold water if too dry. Clingfilm and rest in the fridge for at least two hours. 2. To pickle the mushrooms: boil the vinegar, shallots, pink peppercorns, sugar, one bay leaf and a sprig of thyme. Remove from heat, cool and then pour over the mushrooms, season with a little salt, place in an airtight container and store until needed. I put them into Le Parfait jars.
3. To braise the hares: place them in a large ovenproof dish, chop all the vegetables into even-sized pieces (about 2cm) and add to the hares (except the potatoes; reserve these for later). Heat the stock and Madeira together and pour over the hares, add sprigs of thyme, the juniper and the bay. Grind a generous
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The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2013
Dessert Pear and almond tart Any kind of almond frangipane tart looks so appetising, from raspberry in summer to plum or pear tart as in this recipe. A splash of Poire William liqueur in some English custard complements the tart beautifully. Make sure you serve it warm to get the maximum flavour.
Makes one 10-inch tart
Ingredients For the frangipane
For the sweet pastry
250g butter 250g caster sugar 100g plain flour 200g ground almonds 5 eggs 1 measure dark rum 1/2 tsp almond essence
125g butter 100g sugar 1 egg 250g plain flour
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6 poached pears or 12 (tinned) pear halves
2tbsp apricot jam 2tbsp caster sugar 100g flaked almonds
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1. To make the pastry, cream the butter and sugar then mix in the sifted flour and egg to form the pastry. Do not overwork the pastry – you want it to be as short as possible. Wrap the pastry in clingfilm and rest in the fridge for at least half an hour.
2. Remove from the fridge, roll out on a floured surface and line a 10-inch cake ring, leaving an overhang of pastry all around. Press the pastry firmly into the ring. Rest in the fridge for another 20 minutes and then blind bake at 180°C for 15 minutes, then remove the baking beans and return to the oven for a further 5 minutes. This is now ready for your frangipane mix.
3. To make the frangipane filling: cream the butter and sugar, then beat in the beaten egg. Sift the flour and ground almonds together into the bowl and mix in, then stir in the rum and almond essence. You don’t have to add the almond essence but I think it really brings out the almond flavour. Spoon the mix into your pastry case and lay the pear halves around the top of the tart, sprinkle the sugar and flaked almonds onto the tart and bake at 160°C for 30-40 minutes. 4. Remove from the oven and trim the excess pastry from around the tart. Portion and serve while warm.
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The Pantry Q&A We’ve got an extra special guest for this issue’s Q&A – four-year-old Toby Mackenzie. And, as Molly’s still a bit little, Toby’s answered her questions, too. What is your favourite food, Toby? Baked beans, chicken and Yorkshire pudding (but not all together). What is Molly's favourite food? Chocolate
What do you and Molly like for breakfast? I like rice crispies and toast, and Molly likes yoghurt and banana.
What do you like to cook at home with daddy?
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Omelette with cheese and ham – I use my own special little pan and you mustn't touch it ‘cos it gets really hot and it might burn your fingers. Eggy bread, Yorkshire puddings and pancakes. Do you like going in daddy's kitchen at The Pipe and Glass? Yes, to get chocolate cookies and gingerbread men. What things does daddy grow in his garden? I grow sunflowers and Molly grows some as well and we see whose is tallest. Whose is tallest this year? Molly’s.
Daddy also grows onions, borage which sounds like porridge, minty and strawberries.
Would you like to be a chef like daddy when you grow up? No, I want to be a policeman.
Ey up, lads! Two Chefs ale, produced by the Great Yorkshire Brewery in conjunction with – you’ve guessed it – two chefs (our very own James and Andrew Pern) goes from strength to strength. The summer version, flavoured with lemon thyme and honey, is now available in bottles at a good outlet near you. And the chefs are thinking on for, as the fashonistas would have it, their AW 13 version.
The Great Yorkshire Brewery says: “We're dead chuffed with Two Chefs: a champion-tasting golden beer with the light sweetness of local Yorkshire honey and seasoned with a pinch of fragrant lemon thyme to make a citrussy, herby brew with complex undertones which will titillate even the most southern of tastebuds! “This Yorkshire nectar will excite if drunk on its own but why not relish it with free range poultry, the best rare breed meats, the finest fresh fish and even wholesome, hearty puds – all lovingly bred, landed or created to celebrate the best of God’s Own Country. So sup up and enjoy!” Never one to stint on style, the Brewery’s Jo Taylor has decked the bottled Two Chefs out with her distinctive trademark tweed ‘flat cap’ – and you can buy gift packs of three in uncompromisingly northern ‘Ey Up’ packaging. www.thepantryonline.co.uk
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The rather fine goblet in our picture, by the way, is courtesy of Gillies Jones Glass, just up the road from the Great Yorkshire Brewery in Rosedale Abbey.
You'll soon be able to buy Two Chefs ale at a brand new outlet - the fabulous Star Inn the City, a new venture in York from James' old friend and mentor, Andrew Pern www.starinnthecity.co.uk
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The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2013
Bee happy!
The world needs bees. They and similar pollinators fertilise at least 75% of the world’s food crops – but loss of habitat, pesticides and disease have seen their numbers decline drastically in recent decades. In the UK alone, last year’s severe winter led to the demise of a third of all England’s honeybee colonies.
In June of this year, the UK government responded by launching a ‘bee action plan’ – an urgent review into the crisis facing both bees, and other crucial pollinators, followed by a pledge to introduce a ‘national pollinator strategy’.
“Pollinators play a vital role in the security of our food supply and the quality of our natural environment,"
said Lord Rupert de Mauley, minister at the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs. "In safeguarding their future, we can secure our own."
It’s something James and Kate, and their team at the Pipe and Glass, feel very strongly about. They’re doing their bit by growing masses of beefriendly herbs in the gardens at the Pipe – and the bees are paying them back by buzzing around in their dozens.
“We have two young children, so are very aware of the fragile future of the planet,” says James. “Bees and other insects are crucial to keep our crops growing; not just the crops we eat, but also the crops which feed the animals which then become part of our food chain.”
And we mustn’t forget that honeybees also produce – you’ve guessed it! – honey, a much-loved ingredient at the Pipe, not least in Two
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Chefs, the beer James and the Star at Harome’s Andrew Pern developed with the Great Yorkshire Brewery: it’s flavoured with honey and lemon thyme.
Want to do your bit to attract bees, and grow some delicious herbs at the same time?
The following are recommended by The Herb Society, and grown at the Pipe and Glass:
• Borage • Chives • Dill • Fennel • Hyssop • Lavender • Marjoram
• Mint • Nasturtium • Rosemary • Sage • Savory • Thyme
– for a fuller list, including some lesser-known herbs, visit
www.herbsociety.org.uk/hg-ba10attract-bees-to-garden.htm
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Recipe suggestion
Honey is a very subtle ingredient in this recipe – but it’s there, in the Two Chefs ale.
Two Chefs ale battered oyster and lemon balm fritters with brown crab mayonnaise
1. Shuck the oysters and keep the shells. 2. Mix the brown crabmeat with the mayonnaise, some chopped dill and a squeeze of lemon.
3. Whisk the flour, vinegar and Two Chefs ale together with a little salt; add a little water if necessary to make a batter that coats the back of a spoon. Chop a generous amount of lemon balm and add to the batter.
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4. Pass the oyster through some plain seasoned flour, dip each one into the batter and deep fry at 180°C until crispy. Drain on kitchen paper and season with salt..
5. Serve with a pot of the brown crab mayo, some wedges of fresh lemon, some sprigs of the fresh lemon balm and, of course, a pint of Two Chefs ale!
This dish can be served as a starter to share, or as a canapé. It is so simple and can even convert people who don’t like oysters.
Ingredients:
8 fresh pacific oysters Fresh lemon balm 2 lemons 250ml homemade mayonnaise 100g brown crabmeat Fresh dill 250g self-raising flour 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 200ml Two Chefs ale
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The Pantry | Autumn – Winter 2013
Peter's wold view Fields of View by Peter Watson We couldn’t resist our stunning ‘big picture’ on the back page of this issue of The Pantry. It’s by Beverley-born artist Peter Watson, now based in Scarborough, and is part of a collection of views of the East Yorkshire called Fields of View.
His work is regularly exhibited around Yorkshire – his next exhibition will be at Gallery Beyond in Nunnington next June. And Peter is familiar with the Pipe and Glass from many years ago – as a student in Beverley in the 60s, he used to be a regular! For more about Peter and his work: www.peterwatsonpaintings.co.uk
Peter’s work takes a fresh look at the East Yorkshire Wolds landscapes made internationally famous recently by David Hockney. Focusing on the way the landscape is affected by modern farming methods, the landscapes, all oils on canvas, include views of Folkton Brow, Weaverthorpe Slack, Sherburn Wold and Willerby Wold. Peter says: “The Wolds are often overlooked as they don’t have the dramatic landscapes of the nearby moors and dales. But they have their own quiet beauty, and modern farming methods have given them their own very special drama. I hope to convey some of that in my work.”
Peter is pictured here at Ulrome, near Bridlington, at work on his next collection, which looks at coastal erosion in the East Riding.
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The
NIBs
The news in brief
The Hardwick boys A great time was had by all when James joined other star chefs to cook for the annual charity gala dinner at Stephen Terry’s The Hardwick in Abergavenny. James provided pudding for over 100 guests at the dinner, which raised funds for the Ty Hapus Charity, which provides respite care and activities for sufferers of dementia.
Left to right, back: Chris Mackey (The Hand and Flowers), Josh Eggleston (The Pony and Trap), Tom Kerridge (The Hand and Flowers), Stephen Terry (The Hardwick), Dom Chapman (The Royal Oak); front, Ben Tish (Opera Tavern) and James.
Cottingham Food Festival James with Hull City players Paul McShane and Robbie Brady at the Cottingham Food Festival
Dates for your diary
Monday 4th November – The Pipe and Glass annual Christmas Fair – see page 9 for more details Friday 31st January 2014 - closing date for entries for The Golden Apron – a joint venture by The Pipe and Glass and Yorkshire Wolds Cookery School to find the county’s best young chef. See page 6 for more details.
The team
Editors at large: James, Kate, Toby and Molly Mackenzie Concept Creation Design & Production www.graphicpower.co.uk
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Skills for Chefs
Tweet tweet tweet
James was delighted to join fellow chefs and food luminaries including Sat Bains, Matthew Fort and Eric Chavot at the annual Skills for Chefs conference in Sheffield in July. This excellent annual event, held by the University of Sheffield and Sheffield City College, showcases the talents of leading chefs, shares skills and knowledge, spotlights topical and political issues and allows chefs to network with both colleagues and suppliers: http://skillsforchefs.org.uk
Over 1,800 people now follow The Pipe and Glass Inn on Twitter – are you one of them?
Howden Food Festival James made a starring appearance at the Food Festival at Howden Show in July. Food Festival organiser Sean Welsh, who runs local wine merchant and delicatessen Flourish and Prosper and local restaurant The Bridge, said: “It’s quite a coup for us to have James Mackenzie attending and we’re absolutely thrilled that he can make it. He’s one of Yorkshire’s most successful and high profile chefs, so it will be fantastic for visitors to the show to be able to watch him at work in the mobile kitchen.”
Last-minute Christmas gift?
James' award-winning cookery book, On the Menu, is available at good bookshops. Or, for a signed copy, buy via the Pipe and Glass website: www.pipeandglass.co.uk You could always make an evening of it, of course, and buy your copy at the Pipe and Glass Christmas Fair on Monday 4th November.
Words by Jeannie Swales and photography by Tony Bartholomew (unless otherwise credited) www.turnstonemedia.co.uk
We want to hear from you – comments about The Pantry, and suggestions for future stories, are always very welcome. Please email pantry@pipeandglass.co.uk
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Tweets @pipeandglass retain our #michelinstar for another year thank u & well done to all our team
Square Meal A glossy mag with glamour girl Gwyneth Paltrow on the cover? No, not a fashion bible: it’s this summer’s edition of top food mag Square Meal and it names the Pipe and Glass as one of its top 50 ‘must-visit’ restaurants outside London. Using expertise from its UK reviewers and comments from a readers’ survey the magazine compiled its annual ‘Hit List UK’, topped by Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, and also including global names such as Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume, Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck and Andrew Fairlie@Gleneagles. It described your favourite venue as ‘a traditional 15thcentury pub with a crack kitchen team’.
Nice mention & my recipe in @ KirstieMAllsopp new Xmas crafts book lots of great crafty ideas & other xmassy recipes
Wallace would be very happy
The Great Yorkshire… weather
“Last year, I was in wellies – this year, it was T-shirt and flip flops.” That’ll be the Great Yorkshire Show, then. Last year’s event was cancelled after just one day because the torrential rains of 2012 made the car parks so muddy, they were unusable. This year, James was slapping on the Factor 50 before heading out for a day of demos.
Great presentation pack 2chefs honey & lemon thyme ale brewed by @ YorkshireBeer concocted by myself & @andrewpern
Other stars of this year’s Cookery Theatre included Stephanie Moon, Rosemary Shrager, Lee Bennet and Michael O’Hare.
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Weaverthorpe Slack is by artist Peter Watson, and is part of a collection of paintings of the Yorkshire Wolds called Fields of View.
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