Global - official magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race - June issue by Great Circle Publishing Company

47 o 30' S 054 28' E wind speed 35 knots - boat speed 23 knots

global JULY 2008

global Global is the official race magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race and is published by Global Ocean Sailing Ventures COVER PHOTO Josh Hall PHOTO CREDITS Billy Black, Catherine Sparkes, Boris Herrmann, Don Bayley, Merijn van der Vliet, Andrew Green, On-Edition, Erlend Kvalsvik, Brian Hancock, Duncan Babbage, S. Greg Panosian, Adriano Costa EDITED BY Portimão Global Ocean Race Team EDITOR Brian Hancock COPYRIGHT Great Circle Publishing Company June 2008

FOREWORD A Message from Brian Hancock Communications Director for the Portimão Global Ocean Race There is something sublime about the open ocean. Its grandeur and immensity is almost too hard to comprehend. Words fail miserably when it comes to describing its intense beauty and power. Images and video are not much better.

For a sailor crossing the open ocean alone, or double-handed, the intensity of the experience is magnified. That sunset, the one that transforms the sea and sky into a palette of unimaginable beauty, is there for your eyes only. As the sun sets spluttering and sizzling into the ocean, it’s only you that bears witness. Same too for a ferocious storm that whips wind and water into a hellish maelstrom. You peer out of a slit in the hatch to watch nature’s wrath unfold and know that you are the sole witness to its incredible force and energy.

The sailors of the Portimão Global Ocean Race will witness such scenes as the 30,000 nautical mile course unfolds. They will see and hear and smell and feel their environment and they will try to explain it to the rest of us as we sit at our breakfast table, hot cup of coffee in hand and a warm cat purring at our feet, and we will try to relate. The divide is almost too great.

My job as Communications Director for the event is to tell its story as Global Ocean SailingVentures, Ltd Unit 41 Claydon Business Park Great Blakenham Ipswich Suffolk, UK IP6 0NL Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information published in this magazine is accurate. Neither the publishers or race officials of the Portimão Global Ocean Race accept liability for any errors. All material contained in this magazine is copyrighted and no part may be reproduced or transmitted without written permission from Global Ocean Sailing Ventures. global

the race unfolds. I will use the words and images transmitted back from onboard each boat to thread a narrative that is an honest and true reflection of life at sea. I will use my own experience as a professional sailor to add color to each report, but the bare, unvarnished story will remain that of the skippers and crews participating in this intense experience. I hope that by the the time the race is over you will know each person intimately, you will have an appreciation for their accomplishment, and you will be inspired to something great with your own life. Global, our official Race Magazine, sets the stage for the race. We will be adding to it as the race develops so that by the end of the race it will be a comprehensive look at the entire event, warts and all. “The Cure for Everything is Salt Water Sweat, Tears and the Sea.” Isak Dineson

CONTENTS

RACE STOPOVER PORTS

FOREWORD A Message from Brian Hancock - 2

PORTIMﾃグ The home of the PGOR - 16

PORTIMﾃグ PREPARES A Message from Mayor of Portimﾃ｣o - 4

CAPE TOWN The Tavern of the Seas - 18

IN THE BEGINNING A Look at the Race - 5

WELLINGTON Land of the Long White Cloud - 20

THE COURSE The Global Racecourse Explained - 8

ILHABELA Tropical Paradise - 22

MUSTO ON BOARD A Bit of History about Musto - 31

CHARLESTON Where Southern Charm abounds - 24

FEATURES THE PERFECT WAVE Josh Hall recounts a moment of pure bliss on the open ocean - 14 CAPE HORN CAPSIZE Brian Hancock recounts a harrowing capsize at Cape Horn - 26 GOING DUO Josh Hall examines what it takes to choose a compatible co-skipper - 28

www.portimaorace.com

Official magazine of the Portimﾃ｣o Global Ocean Race

THE CITY

Portimão prepares A message from the Mayor of Portimão – Manuel da Luz “It’s with great pride and enthusiasm that, on behalf of the City of Portimão, I welcome the Portimão Global Ocean Race 2008-09. For Portimão, it is a great honour and pride to join the elite group of cities that host this global race. It’s renewed riverside, it’s first class hotels, it’s outstanding people, it’s appropiate present and future facilities are all assets to conquer these kinds of sporting events. Our vision and strategy is to sustain tourism growth based on international sports events such as F1 Powerboat Racing, Powerboat P1 and now… a global around-the-world race. WE LOVE THE SEA! AND BIG CHALLENGES. The success of this event will have a very strong impact on the international image of both Portimão and the Algarve. Portimão Global Ocean Race 2008-09 already belongs to our family of great events. You have all of our support and commitment.” global

THE RACE

In the beginning...

A new twist on an old idea.

HE PORTIMÃO GLOBAL OCEAN RACE is a brand new event designed to fill a niche in

the realm of offshore ocean racing.

With the established global races, the fully

crewed Volvo Ocean Race, the single-handed Vendée Globe and the double-handed

Barcelona World Race, all thriving at the forefront of around-the-world racing, the opportunities for non-professional sailors to participate in these kinds of events is practically non-existent. The boats are extreme to sail and the budgets require a substantial investment from a sponsor. With this in mind race co-founders Josh Hall and Brian Hancock, both highly experienced offshore sailors in their own right, set about creating a new around-the-world race, one aimed at the amateur adventurer and aspiring professional. To make the race as accessible to as many people as possible, Hancock and Hall decided to include both single-handed and double-handed divisions and, to keep the race affordable, they limited the size of boats to 40 and 50 feet. The concept caught on and the Portimão Global Ocean Race, the World’s First Solo-Double Global Ocean Race, was born.

Brian Hancock (left) will serve as Communications Director of the Portimão Global Ocean Race, while Josh Hall (right) will be Race Director. They are seen here with the mayor of Portimão, the Honorable Manuel de Luz. Official magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race

THE RACE

IKE MANY “NEW” IDEAS, the Portimão Global Ocean Race is really just a new twist on an old concept. By creating a global race with stopovers in some of the most glamorous and interesting cities, race organizers know that the feeling of camaraderie forged on the race course will be shared with friends and family once in port. This bond between the racers, their teams, sponsors, friends and loved ones creates a close-knit community. It’s this sense of family and belonging that is missing from other aroundthe-world races and is the essence of what sets the Portimão Global Ocean Race apart from other global sporting events. Both Hall and Hancock have been involved in similar events and those races left an indelible mark on their lives. Now their goal is to run an event that is affordable, accessible and one sure to leave its own unique indelible mark.

The fleet assembling for the inaugural Portimão Global Ocean Race is comprised of a number of well known sailors looking to ramp up their offshore efforts to an aroundthe-world race, as well as some rank amateurs looking for a life changing adventure. American Joe Harris has raced single-handed in some of the most prestigious off-

global

shore races from the Newport to Bermuda race to the Transat Jacques Vabre. “It’s been a lifelong quest for me to race solo around the world,” Harris said when he first heard about the Portimão Global Ocean Race. “It’s important for me to include my wife and children in my big adventure, so being able to compete in the Portimão Global Ocean Race and have my family be there on the dock when I arrive in a foreign port is integral to the overall experience.”

T THE OTHER END OF THE spectrum two amateur sailors, neither of whom had set foot on a sailboat until a few years ago, will be competing in the double-handed division. Jeremy Salvesen, until recently the owner of a sweet factory in Northern England, and Victoria Sanders-Perrin, formerly an account executive with Xerox, joined forces to race together on their Class 40. “I was introduced to around-the-world racing purely by chance,” said Salvesen. “I was in Wellington New Zealand and one morning outside my hotel room there was this fleet of enormous sailboats racing around the world. I was so intrigued that I told my wife then and there that I was going to sail around the world.” The rest, as they say, is history.

Between the two are numerous upand-coming sailors, among them the current German 505 National Champion Boris Herrmann. Herrmann is young and ambitious and looking to make his mark on professional offshore sailing. He has already raced successfully in the tough Mini Transat and more recently finished 2nd in the gruelling Artemis Transat, a solo crash and bash fest across the North Atlantic from Plymouth, England to Marblehead, Massachusetts.

ERRMANN, SALVESEN Harris and SandersPerrin are just a snapshot of the teams participating in this global adventure. There are others and their stories will be told in future editions of Global. Their stories, the unvarnished trials and tribulations that they will encounter on the 30,000 mile race course will transcend a mere sporting event; they will become the fabric of an extraordinary life experience, one that will not only leave its mark on the sailors, but will inspire all those who follow the race to dream big and know for sure that dreams really do come true.

T he Portimão Global Ocean Race has two very important partners for the event; the Marina de Portimão and the Hotel Tivoli Arade, both superb facilities that will be at the center of the race start and finish.

T he Marina de Portimão is a thoroughly modern marina with over 600 berths capable of accepting yachts up to 50 meters.

W ithin the marina complex is the gorgeous Hotel Tivoli Arade, a four star hotel that forms the centerpiece of the Marina de Portimão.

R ace Organisers thank both the Marina and Hotel for their generous support of the Portimão Global Ocean Race. “We are proud and excited to be hosting the Portimão Global Ocean Race and also very pleased that our already highly regarded facilities have attracted some of the top sailing projects including ABN AMRO and more recently Hugo Boss. With year-round good weather and first class facilities we expect many more projects to visit our beautiful shores”

Marina Manager - Marina Correia “Given its superb location, we have been supporting main elite water sport competitions since the very beginning of our hotel venture. This includes sailing, powerboat and Leisure International Events. To host the Portimão Global Ocean Race is, for us, a true symbol of the success of our strategy, and of the great added value our facilities and service provide for our customers. Tivoli Arade and Tivoli Hotels Group are thrilled to be a part of this great race!”

ADE

AR IVOLI T L E T O

Hotel Manager - Mario Candeias MARIN A DE P ORTI

MÃO

Azores

CHARLESTON

PORTIMﾃグ

Fernando de Noronha

ILHABELA CAPE TOWN

Cape Horn

global

WELLINGTON

Southern Ocean Sliding Gate

The Course START DATES PORTIMÃO, Portugal October 12th, 2008 CAPE TOWN, South Africa December 7th, 2008

HE INAUGURAL PORTIMAO GLOBAL Ocean Race will start from the sea-

side town of Portimão on Portugal’s

beautiful Algarve coast. It is an ideal setting with rolling hills, fertile farms and

WELLINGTON, New Zealand February 8th, 2009

stunning clay cliffs bordering the warm

ILHABELA, Brazil April 5th, 2009

be serene as it will be the last glimpse of

CHARLESTON, USA May 31st, 2009

waters of the Atlantic. The view needs to land the sailors will see as they head out into a world of blue and grey.

Official magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race

30,000 Nautical Miles Through searing heat and freezing temperatures, the sailors will prevail.

OR MOST OF THE RACERS it will be six long weeks of nothing but undulating ocean before they see land again and by then the memories of packed fish restaurants and friendly crowds will

have long since diminished. Portim達o will give the fleet a spectacular send off, and then begin preparations for their return nine months later.

global

THE COURSE

LEG 1 PORTIMÃO TO CAPE TOWN 6,900 NAUTICAL MILES

NCE THE GUN FIRES THE boats will sail close along the coast allowing spectators enjoying the sun on Portugal’s famous Praia da Rocha to enjoy the spectacle. Then it is a gentle turn to port as the steady northerly trade winds kick in and sights are set on the first point gate, the tiny island of Fernando de Noronha. The first two weeks of the race should be perfect sailing, allowing the teams time to ease into their big adventure. In October the trades are steady and strong, enabling the fleet to rocket south constantly searching the horizon for towering dark cumulus clouds, the first sign that they are approaching the turbulent doldrum area.

HE DOLDRUMS, OR POT au Noir as the French so aptly describe the area, is tactically difficult and mentally challenging as the wind dies away to nothing, interspersed with thundering squalls accompanied by torrential rain. It will be 300 miles of grim hell until the trades to the south take over, allowing the sailors to break free of the unsettled weather and set a course for Fernando. The island acts as a point gate as well as a media drop-off point, but more importantly it serves to keep the boats well to the west of the South Atlantic High. Those sailors tempted to cut the corner and sail a direct course for Cape Town will find themselves in the grip of perfect beach weather; hot and flat calm. For the rest it is a fine line south skirting the High, staying in the breeze yet trying to shave off miles by cutting the corner. Finally, around 38 degrees south, they will pick up a westerly wind on the edge of the Southern Ocean and fly downwind into Cape Town, South Africa.

Official magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cold, damp wind blowing direct from the Antarctic ice pack across a span of frigid ocean will hint at the danger that lies ahead.â&#x20AC;?

global

LEG 2

LEG 4

CAPE TOWN TO

ILHABELA

WELLINGTON

CHARLESTON

7,500 NAUTICAL MILES

5,000 NAUTICAL MILES

APE TOWN, THE TAVERN OF THE SEAS has welcomed sailors for centuries. Majestic Table Mountain rises out of clear, cold water and offers the sailors a three week respite before they head back out again, this time into the rough and tumble of the deep south. No sooner will the racers have passed Cape Point than the first fringes of the Southern Ocean will be felt. Cold, damp wind blowing direct from the Antarctic ice pack across a span of frigid ocean will hint at the danger that lies ahead. Strong westerly winds and massive seas will propel the fleet further south, under Australia where the danger of ice lurks. It will be a time for monitoring the radar, keeping a vigil on deck, and praying to the gods. Communication between boats will be constant as each sailor knows that their first lifeline, should anything go wrong, will be a fellow competitor. Christmas and New Year will come and go before the green hills dotted with sheep herald the approach to Wellington, New Zealand.

LEG 3 WELLINGTON ILHABELA 7,100 NAUTICAL MILES

ELLINGTON, THE CAPITAL CITY OF A nation that is sailing mad, will treat the sailors to a belated Christmas and allow the teams time to regroup before tackling the second half of the race. Leg 3 takes the fleet back into the Southern Ocean, this time around the infamous Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America. It will be another turbulent ride dodging the worst cold fronts and riding the best. Those that are lucky will get a glimpse of the famous cape that has intrigued and devastated sailors for centuries: others will give the land a wide berth before turning their bows north and heading for Ilhabela, a tiny, tropical paradise off the coast of Brazil. With the worst of the race behind them sailors will take time to explore the deep natural rain forest and laze on hot sandy beaches.

WO TOUGH TACTICAL LEGS REMAIN AND as Spring wakes up the Northern Hemisphere the sailors will head north, skirting the coast of Brazil, passing Fernando a second time and traversing the Caribbean Sea. The welcoming shores of North America lie just over the horizon and Charleston, known as the friendliest city in America, readies itself for their annual Maritime Festival. The sailors of the Portimão Global Ocean Race will be the central focus of their festivities and if any city knows how to respond to globetrotting sailors, it is Charleston with its legendary southern charm.

LEG 5 CHARLESTON TO PORTIMÃO 3,500 NAUTICAL MILES

HE FINAL LEG IS A 3,500 MILE SPRINT across the North Atlantic back to Portugal, yet despite the relative ease of the trip, it is fraught with pitfalls. The Azores High can turn the fleet on its head and dark squalls at night can trip up unwary sailors. As the boats sail past Pico, the point gate, they will see the majestic mountain, the highest in Portugal and start to smell the first warm wafting breezes of the finish. Portimão is just over the horizon and the end of a nine month odyssey that will have changed each and every sailor in both subtle and dramatic ways. The sights, sounds, trials and tribulations of the past year will meld into one as each skipper sails across the finish line, those same unchanged hills, cliffs and farms there to greet them.

“It will be another turbulent ride dodging the worst cold fronts and riding the best.”

Official magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race

The Perfect Wave

Josh Hall recounts a moment of pure bliss on the open ocean.

global

AILING SOLO OR DOUBLEhanded around the world can be a life changing experience from desperate lows that require courage and inner strength to exhilarating highs unmatched in any other sport. Despite the highs it’s still hard for non-sailors to understand the pull of going offshore for weeks at a time with with just yourself or another person for company. Some people love it; others don’t. There are times, however, when the stars align and everything goes absolutely right and you find yourself riding the crest of life on the lip of a curling wave. Race Director Josh Hall had just such an experience while racing double-handed from France to Brazil in the Transat Jacques Vabre. Here is his account of surfing the perfect wave.

S WE ENTER THE LAST few days of this Transat Jacques Vabre I have been reflecting on the many, many fine moments we have had the privilege of experiencing. We have sailed in stormy headwinds, bashed our way through cold fronts, steered the boat through sunny trade wind skies with the spinnaker dragging us along at easy high speeds, and we have laid in the bunk listening to the hiss of ocean sluicing past the hull and the hum of the wind

through the rigging. It has been a truly magical voyage and in great company as well, but one moment, for me, stands out above the rest. After gybing south of Madeira we began an exhilarating few days of adrenalin pumping downwind sailing at high speeds in the strong Northeast Trade Winds. During this period we were blessed with a near full moon that rose before sunset and set as the sun lifted on the eastern horizon gifting us with a nocturnal searchlight that you could read a newspaper by. We were hand-steering full time taking 3 hour spells to wield the tiller. This was hard downwind sailing at its best with the 20-foot waves at a perfect angle for surfing on our 50 foot long board and a steady 30 knot wind filling our cloud of canvas. The helm, as long as we didn't let the boat take charge of it, was light as a feather and we steered the red rocket like a dinghy, playing the waves and wind angle for the highest speeds..18, 22, 26 knots, hour after hour, day after day, running down our latitude at an almost alarming rate.

N THE SECOND NIGHT I was at the helm with Joe counting some wellearned sheep in the bunk below. The sky was crystal

clear and the milky way a treasure trove of jewellery - a countless diamond studding of stars and planets with the center piece pearl being the moon. In this light, the ocean was a heaving surface of mercury with regular streaks of sulphur where wave crests broke all around. I felt the stern lift as a larger than most wall of water picked us up for another sleigh ride. As we took off down its face I glanced over my shoulder behind me where three dolphins flew out of my wave and through the path of moonlight. I was completely mesmerised. The moment stood still. The world stopped turning. There was just me, the wave and the dolphins bathed in luxurious moonlight. In that moment all of life’s concerns disappeared. This was my nirvana and if I could I would have stayed trapped in that moment of exquisite beauty and raw nature forever, never tiring of the view.

WAS RUDELY BROUGHT back to reality by the tiller reminding me that unless I concentrated a little this 24knot surf was going to end in a wipe-out at the bottom of the wave. Helm down, back on the wind, next wave lifting the stern, but I doubt any wave will be like the previous one. And people wonder why we do this stuff??!!"

Official magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race

START/FINISH PORT

Portim達o

The home of the Portim達o Global Ocean Race

F YOU WALK THE STREETS OF PORTIMAO after dark and close your eyes, listening to the sounds of the street and enjoying the aroma of dozens of restaurants firing up

grills for the evening crowds, you could imagine yourself in any modern European city. The bustle, the foreign tongue and heady smell of good cooking permeates your senses.

global

Y DAY, HOWEVER IT IS A different place. The city is awash in sunshine, the colours an artist’s palette. From the whitewashed buildings of the historic district to the pale yellow sand of pristine beaches, to the verdant green of the surrounding hills, it is a feast for the eyes. Portimão is uniquely Portuguese from its numerous restaurants serving their local specialty, grilled sardines, to an abundance of outdoor markets, it is a place where visitors can soak up the slow pace of life and recharge their batteries. For those looking for a bit more action Portimão is home to some of the world’s top sporting events from the P1 powerboats ripping up local waters, to national and international windsurfing and sailing events. The Portimão Global Ocean Race will be their first global event and as the mayor Manuel de Luz described it, their jewel in the crown.

HE RACE FLEET WILL BE located at the lovely and thoroughly modern Marina de Portimão with media facilities and events taking place at the stunning Hotel Tivoli Arade. Both the hotel and marina are official sponsors of the race and will be the central focus of all activities leading up to the start of the Portimão Global Ocean Race. A few minutes walk from the marina will find you on Portugal’s most famous beach, the Praia da Rocha, an immense stretch of pristine white sand edged by first class restau-

rants and the turquoise waters of the Atlantic. It is a place where people come to see and be seen and a place where the race teams, along with their friends and families, will enjoy sun soaked days and warm evenings dining al fresco, taking in the sights and sounds of Portugal’s night life.

almonds, carobs and the brandy made from the locally grown medronho (arbutus-berry), distilled up in the hills in old copper stills. In all Portimão and its surroundings are simply a wonderful place to prepare for an around-the-world race, or to recover when it is all over.

OR THOSE WITH A little extra time on their hands there is the whole Algarve region to explore. The Algarve is Portugal's most popular tourist destination and for good reason. It is a plethora of small seaside towns steeped in history and culture, with a unique architecture of whitewashed houses with brightly coloured mouldings and remarkably beautiful chimneys. Perhaps the most lasting impression you will have of Portimão and the Algarve region is the food. The menu consists of fish and shellfish with dishes such as caldeirada de peixe (fishstew) or cataplana de amêijoas (clams steamed in a copper pan), or away from the ocean you can enjoy the traditional mountain food of stewed chickpeas and cabbage. The range of choice also includes famous regional delicacies such as figs,

Official magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race

STOPOVER PORT

Cape Town T

The Tavern of the Seas

HE ROYAL CAPE YACHT CLUB sits at the foot of Africa, a quiet enclave tucked away among the bustle and grit of

Cape Townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s docks. It is a prime location for sailors looking

for respite from stormy weather and the club has hosted tens of thousands of travel weary sailors over the years.

global

OW IN THE LONG tradition of extending a warm South African welcome, the Royal Cape Yacht Club will once more play host to an around-the-world race. In late November this year the first competitors of the Portimão Global Ocean Race will throw their lines ashore and be welcomed into the club to repair boats and recharge batteries. The club itself is modest, a low-slung building that houses offices, a first class restaurant and a bar where more tall tales have been told than on any other patch of earth. Its relaxed atmosphere and view over crowded docks bustling with activity is a very pleasant way to while away a long lunch or a cozy, romantic dinner. The sailors racing in the Portimão Global Ocean Race will only be a short walk from an ice cold beer or the new “braai area”, an informal place where they

can cook steaks and fish over open coals. South Africa is all about informality but for those looking for chic and trendy, there is plenty for all.

APE TOWN IS A VIBRANT city nestled in the shadow of Table Mountain. It is a melting pot of cultures from African, Malay, Indian and the ubiquitous Cape Colored, people of mixed race, whose charm and humour, say nothing of their food, dominate the local scene. Stand on a street corner in downtown Cape Town and you will see all of Africa pass by. Venture further afield and you will soon come to realize why South Africa has captured the heart and spirit of a continent. A short drive from Cape Town you can find literally hundreds of quaint vineyards, their Cape Dutch architecture of whitewashed gables and thatched

roofs lending a charm that is uniquely South African. Drive north from Cape Town and you will soon find shallow lakes teeming with flamingos, drive east and you will find elephants and drive south along the stunning road to Cape Point and you will likely be carjacked by baboons! Remember to keep your windows rolled up.

OR THE SAILORS, CAPE Town will be a welcome change from life at sea, but it will also be about careful planning for the voyage ahead. Leg 2 takes the fleet deep into the Southern Ocean, south of Australia, into iceberg territory. The attention to detail by the shore teams will pay huge dividends, for while South Africa is all about great food, sunshine and friendly people, it will also be about hard work, but no one ever complains; the view of Table Mountain is enough to convince you that you don’t have a real job.

Official magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race

STOPOVER PORT

Wellington

Land of the Long White Cloud

ELLINGTON, NEW Zealand, the capital city of a country many agree to be the sailing capital of the world, will play host to the Portimão Global Ocean Race in early 2009 to continue a long tradition of the country’s strong involvement in offshore ocean racing. New Zealand has produced more top offshore sailors per capita than any other place on the planet and a good share of them

cut their teeth sailing the windy waters of the Cook Strait, the narrow stretch of water that separates the North Island of New Zealand from the South Island. The city itself, small by most standards, stands proud at the bottom of the North Island. It is surrounded by mountains and water, yet is one more example of the stunning beauty of a land the Maori call Aotearoa, the Land of the Long White Cloud.

Y THE TIME THE SAILORS have transited the Southern Ocean and crossed the Tasman Sea, they will be looking for a respite from the barrage of inclement weather they will surely find on Leg 2 and Wellington stands with arms wide open ready to welcome the fleet. The city was chosen as the stopover port for the Portimão Global Ocean Race partly because of its location. Auckland, further to the north, is no stranger

to around-the-world races, but for a solo sailor it is a long and seemingly unnecessary slog up and over the top of the North Island before finding a safe refuge. Wellington is “on-the-way” to Cape Horn and as such is a perfect city to rest weary bones and prepare for the second half of the race.

HE PORTIMÃO GLOBAL Ocean Race fleet will be docked downtown in the heart of the city, a stone’s throw from superb restaurants, trendy bars and a muti-screen movie complex. Better yet, the boats will be a short walk to the Royal Port Nicholson Yacht Club, the host club for the stopover and one that has welcomed globe trotting sailors for decades. Perhaps the best thing about Wellington is its facilities for boats. Although New Zealand is not quite halfway around the world for

the fleet, it is halfway across the Southern Ocean and a perfect place to refit the boats. Most skippers will take advantage of a longer stopover and great services to haul their boats for a thorough check over. It will also be a good time to recharge massively depleted batteries and reconnect with life on land. For sponsors, family and friends that fly into New Zealand for the race stopover, the country is a feast for travelers of all kinds. Ecotourism is huge, as is adventure travel with sky diving, white water rafting and bungee jumping, all available within an hour’s drive. For those looking for spectacular beauty unmatched anywhere else on earth, the whole South Island awaits. From the steep sided fjords of Milford Sound to quaint fishing villages that dot the rugged shoreline, the South Island of New Zealand is perhaps one of the most

Wellington’s

tag

line,

scenic places on earth.

OR THOSE LOOKING FOR more serene activities, long sandy beaches, hot springs and excellent trout fishing abound on the North Island. Yet aside from the spectacular scenery, delicious food and friendly people, New Zealand is all about their rich heritage, particularly the Maori culture which is now an integral part of daily life. The Portimão Global Ocean Race fleet will be in Wellington for Waitangi Day, New Zealand’s national holiday that celebrates the treaty signed between Maori Chiefs and representatives of the British Crown. The Treaty of Waitangi gave the Maori the same rights as the British and the day is celebrated with both deep traditional ritual, as well as more lighthearted fun, food and plenty of sporting activities.

ABSOLUTELY,

POSITIVELY,

WELLINGTON sums it all up. We simply add to it by saying that we are Absolutely sure that Wellington will Positively be a superb stopover for the Portimão Global Ocean Race.

STOPOVER PORT

Ilhabela

Brian Hancock takes a trip to a tropical paradise and reports on the Brazil stopover

Y FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE island, Ilhabela, was through wisps of mist that hung heavy

from a leaden sky. I had been expecting warm tropical sun, but a drenching rain soaked the long drive from Sao Paulo airport until we began a slow descent toward Sao Sebastian and the ferry terminal that would transport us out to the island. The rain stopped momentarily and a weak, filtered sun cast a silver light on the channel. The mist reduced visibility but despite the gloomy weather and through the fug of jet lag it was clear to me that we were heading someplace special. I was not disappointed.

global

HIS WAS MY FIRST VISIT to the proposed South American stopover for the Portimão Global Ocean Race. I had visited many times before, courtesy of Google Earth and a plethora of internet content, but this would be my first actual visit. By my best estimate I was arriving exactly one year to the day in advance of the first boat finishing in Brazil after the long leg from Wellington, New Zealand, and I took that as a good sign. We had a full year make sure that the South America stopover was all we wanted it to be; safe, beautiful, a place to bring friends, family and sponsors and a place to prepare for the final two stages of the race. Shortly after landing on the island I knew that Ilhabela would deliver all we hoped for, and more. Literally translated the name means beautiful island and it is every bit that. Towering peaks covered with thick, lush rain forest cover 95% of the island and are a designated state preserve. The land not covered in verdant growth slopes gently to white sandy beaches and sparkling turquoise water. My trip was not all about beaches and rain forests. Indeed the Brazilians, led by good friend and solo circumnavigator Andre Homem de Mello, had a full schedule of meetings planned. There was business to transact, but not before an official welcome by Eduardo Espiaut, the soon-to-be new head of tourism for the island. “Welcome, Brian” he said in halting English. “Would you like a caipirinha?” The drink that along with thong clad gorgeous women had put Brazil squarely on the map as a must-visit destination, is made from a local (read lethal) clear spirit drowned in heaping spoons of sugar and piles of crushed limes. It was before noon but I thought it best to accept

Eduardo’s offer. One caipirinha is all you need to release years of stress and the drink went down, as my late father liked to say, ‘singing hymns’. Returning to Brazil is a little like returning home; the warmth of the weather and people wrap around you in a damp embrace and you know that you have arrived at a place where you are destined to return.

HE FLEET WILL BE BASED at the Yacht Club de Ilhabela, a sprawling, modern and quite stunning facility in the historic district of the island. We ate a lunch of justcaught linefish and discussed logistics, not bad work if you can get it. The Yacht Club hosts Ilhabela Sailing Week each July and the regatta has grown from humble origins to South America’s premiere sailing event. To add a feather to their caps, the regatta is now sponsored by Rolex so all in all the local sailors know a bit about sailboat races and are very excited about the prospect of a global aroundthe-world race landing on their shores. As the club is reserved for members, an adjacent Race Village will be built for the public.

“We will have live music, food and lots of fun,” enthused Eduardo. “And for each arriving skipper, fireworks and plenty of caipirinha’s.” Be warned sailors, one caipirinha after six weeks of abstinence may lead you to reveal truths best kept secret!

LHABELA IS A LOVELY PLACE to visit. After the soggy start the rest of my time there was sunny and gorgeous. I spent a few hours tramping through dense forest marveling at the bird life and

swatting mosquitos. Its forest is like no other and quite spectacular. The food is terrific and people friendly and gracious. The Mayor of Ilhabela, a young, lanky, clearly on-his-way-up politician invited me warmly into his office and offered his full support and u n b r i d l e d enthusiasm for the event. So if you are looking for me in a year’s time look no further than the s a n d y shores of Ilhabela. Or better yet, join me there.

Official magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race

STOPOVER PORT

Charleston, SC

Where southern charm abounds

HERE IS SOMETHING UNIQUE ABOUT THE AMERICAN SOUTH. Its rich and varied history has molded the region into a melting pot of ideas, cuisine and culture and no place more resembles the vibrancy of the south than the lovely city of Charleston,

South Carolina. The city sprawls out from Charleston harbor in wide, tree-lined streets and large Victorian homes in a blend of old and new. The historic district, with its hidden alleys, majestic homes, manicured gardens and tree canopied streets is the perfect place to while away an afternoon transported back to a bygone era of grace and southern hospitality.

STONE’S THROW AWAY, MODERN RESTAURANTS chic clubs and fast food joints burst with energy as patrons overflow onto the cobbled streets and soak in the warm humid air. All of this beauty and bustle will be just a few minutes walk from where the Portimão Global Ocean Race fleet will be docked and the juxtaposition of a fleet of modern racing yachts against a backdrop of antique charm will not be lost on anyone visiting the yachts while they are in North America.

has a long history with short handed sailing. Two single-handed around-the-world races started and finished in Charleston and the city eagerly awaits the Portimão Global Ocean Race. Furthermore, the stopover will be managed by the dynamic husband and wife team of Brad and Meaghan van Liew. Brad competed in two Around Alone races winning the 50foot division of

Charleston will be the penultimate stop of the Portimão Global Ocean Race and the final springboard that will propel the sailors across the Atlantic back to Portugal. It was chosen as a stopover port not only because of its natural beauty, but because the city

global

the 2001/02 race aboard his Open 50 Tommy Hilfiger Freedom America. Meaghan handled the publicity and between them they put solo sailing firmly on the map in North America. They know what’s expected of a great stopover and will deliver a memorable experience to sponsors, family and friends who want a taste a true American hospitality.

ERHAPS IT IS THE FOOD THAT DEFINES THE South and sets it apart from the rest of North America. The South Carolina low country, the low lying coastal plains that stretch the length of the Carolina coast into Georgia, is abundant with sea life, and with African and Caribbean influences the cuisine is distinct and tasty. The Gullah, a group of descendants of former slaves who live on the Barrier Islands give the the cooking it’s spicy flavor and colorful names like Seafood Muddle and Frogmore Stew. Although the stopover will be busy preparing for the final leg of the race, take some time to slow down, ease into the southern way of life. You will know you’ve been touched by the culture when you start referring to your friends and neighbors as y’all.

HE PORTIMÃO GLOBAL OCEAN RACE will be hosted by the South Carolina Maritime Heritage Foundation, a non-profit education foundation that offers a unique educational opportunity for students of South Carolina. The programs focus on history, math, science and literature and encourages personal responsibility, contribution to community and stewardship of the environment. The foundation has as its flag ship the recently launched “Spirit of South Carolina”, a Pilot Schooner reminiscent of the “Frances Elizabeth”, a vessel that served pilots in Charleston’s harbor in the late 1800s. The “Spirit of South Carolina” serves as a training ship and goodwill ambassador.

Official magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race

Cape Horn Capsize Brian Hancock recounts a fierce Southern Ocean storm and near tragic capsize.

N 1981 I WAS SAILING DEEP IN THE SOUTHERN OCEAN aboard an American boat, Alaska Eagle, participating in the Whitbread Round the World Race. We had been flogging the heavy, under canvassed boat along

the 60th parallel searching for the maximum amount of wind to keep us in the hunt for a respectable finish, but as we neared Cape Horn the wind suddenly died to a whisper.

T MADE FOR HELLISH SAILING as a large, leftover swell rolled the boat heavily while the sails snapped from side to side creating a hellish din. There was not much we could do but wait. The legendary Cape Horn was just 90 miles ahead and for me, on my first rounding of the famous Cape, a childhood dream was about to come true. I was not looking forward to a light air rounding; my Cape Horn dreams had been filled with massive seas and stormy weather but I also knew that in the Southern Ocean things can change in seconds, and for us they did.

global

E FELT THE FIRST icy fingers of the new breeze blowing directly off Antarctica. It tickled the grey surface of the water filling our sails and sending the boat forward with sheets tightening around winches. The air was so cold and so dense that 15 knots felt like 25, but at least it was from the stern quarter and before long we had our largest spinner set, pulling us toward the tip of South America. For a brief moment the skies cleared and brilliant sun reflected on a cobalt blue ocean, but moments later the weather closed in and the wind increased. It was time to shorten sail to our storm spinnaker, a bullet proof, 3ounce sail with wire sewn into the edges to give it extra grunt. We joked that the sail would pull the rig out of the boat before blowing apart and we were about to put it to the test. They say that you need an IQ less than the length of your boat if you want race around the world. I am not sure that’s true but we were young, baby-faced kids looking for adventure and we were about to get a dose of it. Our first mistake was thinking we could carry the spinnaker in 40 knots of wind. Alaska Eagle was a modern design by the standards of the day, but her pinched up stern was not suitable for heavy downwind running. The wind backed into the west and we squared the spinnaker pole to balance the boat. We moved all the sails aft to settle the stern in the water, but it was no use. We were not in control. Within an hour the seas had really built and were starting to crest as the waters near land began to shallow on the continental shelf. With the change in wind direction came an awkward cross sea and it was a short, steep one that nailed us. Over we went, the boat rounding up beam-on to the breaking waves. Fortunately the spinnaker was not as strong as we had thought and seconds later it came apart with a jerk and bang that rattled teeth, say nothing of nerves. Bits of wet nylon floated to leeward while we struggled to retrieve what was left. Clearly our great intention of a Cape Horn rounding was now firmly out of the question. With the debris on deck cleared away and a large bottle of rum passed around, we sheepishly took a third reef in the mainsail and set a heavy working jib on the spinnaker pole. It was a steady, sensible rig

and our speed was still in the low 20’s. A light snow began to fall and while we knew that land was just ahead, our only sight of it was on the gloomy green screen of the radar below. Then the wind really started to blow. Our anemometer showed a steady 50 knots. It whistled through the rigging blowing the snow around in ghostlike forms while we hung on grimly monitoring our progress on the radar and occasionally taking long pulls from the rum bottle. As we neared land the seas seemed to get even steeper as the water shallowed and the wind funneled through the Drake Passage. We were entering an area where many fine seamen had perished trying to round the fearsome cape, but in our youth and exuberance it was exactly what we had come for: a severe belting at the bottom of the earth.

ITH JUST UNDER ten miles to go the skies suddenly cleared and there ahead of us, crouched low in the water, was a brooding chunk of land. Cape Horn. It was exactly as I had read and imagined since I was old enough to pick up a book. A heavy, grey sky added drama to the ominous outline. And then the wind increased further. It had been at a steady 50 knots but now the gusts were over 60 and the water was whipped into a maelstrom of spindrift and crashing waves. The stern rose to each approaching wave and we thundered down steep-sided crests into the eerie calm of each trough. It was as if the wind had died but it had only dropped temporarily. As the boat rose to the next swell the sails strained in protest and the boat surfed unsteadily toward Cape Horn. We had picked up a new crew member in New Zealand and he had not had the chance to be on the helm since leaving land. The Southern Ocean is no place to get the hang of downwind sailing, but we all wanted a photo taken of us at the helm with the famous landmark as a backdrop. We started taking pictures of each other but it was becoming increasingly clear that we were in close, too close. Less than half a mile to be exact, but the energy being whipped up by the weather and the rum-tinged adrenalin running through our veins made us feel invincible. The noise, the spray and the heady feeling of a full-on Southern Ocean gale was about as

close to heaven as this young South African could get. As our new crew member took the helm to have his photo taken I knew that something was wrong. The seas had changed. We were getting the back-splash off the land and the already steep waves were suddenly treacherous. Just as the new guy smiled for the camera an errant wave caught the stern of the boat and over we went. The boat rounded up violently, a second uneven wave broke over the boat and the mast hit the water with a resounding crack. Fortunately we were all tethered. Those on the high side fell until being pulled up short by their harnesses. I was to leeward and felt the icy water hit me square in the chest. Suddenly I was underwater being dragged by my harness. It was probably only a few seconds before the boat came back upright but it was pointing directly at land and we lurched closer to shore riding the razor’s edge of another cresting wave. The boat went over for a second time and I wondered if the mast would survive. We were clearly in trouble. If the rig went we would wash up on the rocky shores of Chile, dashed against the rock to join the myriad of sailors who too had tempted fate at this the most southern tip of land. Again the boat came upright and this time another wave took our stern and flung it sideways. The boat gybed and the boom swept dangerously across the deck. As it hit the running backstay the mainsail split from luff to leech. With the sail pressure suddenly released and the boat pointing in the right direction, we were suddenly back in control. Better yet, we were all 10 of us still on board.

APE HORN IS NOT THE fiercest place on earth. We had seen more wind south of Australia, but the combination of rapidly shallowing water, the wind funneling between the Andes mountains and Antarctica, and in our case, a youthful, inexperienced crew, we were very lucky to have survived. We did survive, however, and the photo that accompanies this story was taken just moments before we capsized. It was a grand adventure, the kind spirited boys and girls seek when they set off to sea. I was glad to get mine out of the way early on in my career. Four years later I rounded Cape Horn for a second time. We had light headwinds.

Official magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race

Going Duo

Josh Hall examines what it takes to choose a compatible co-skipper.

HERE IS A STORM FORCE WIND BLOWING from

astern. Hail and snow drive at your back with such

force you cannot look into the weather which is prob-

ably a good thing because the waves are up to 15 metres â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you cannot afford for your mind to freeze in fear at the sight of these towering walls of water. Your hands are frozen to the steering wheel, your feet are size 9 blocks of ice as you guide your race yacht eastwards at breakneck speed â&#x20AC;Ś..she is an expensive surfboard in these conditions.

global

some of the most hostile regions of the planet that man has elected to adventure through. Conditions during the race will vary from the intense and debilitating heat of the tropics where there is no escape from a searing sun to the, at times, abject misery and cold of the Southern Ocean.

OUR CO-SKIPPER, THE only other human being within a 500 mile radius of you, is off-watch, trying to get some much needed sleep in a carbon fiber bunk that’s mission in life seems only to be to throw him to the floor as the yacht pitches and heaves and rolls and slams its way through the watery wasteland of the Southern Ocean. It is a black, moonless night other than the somewhat homely green glow that makes up the southern horizon. But that is not the glow of sanctuary, it is the reflected light of the Antarctic icepack just a few hundred miles away and in fact serves only as a reminder of just how far away from home you actually are.

motion is truly accentuated, your co-skipper must think you are mad to be pushing like this, but he has not put his head out through the doorway to comment, so it must be ok! You are frightened and excited in equal measure. You strived to be in this race – to be here, now. Your dreams would be most people’s nightmares but you live for this 24/7 adrenalin rush that is the Portimão Global Ocean Race. You chose to be here, as did your coskipper, so complaints from either of you will not be tolerated – least of all by each other. A check of your watch – another 10 minutes and it will be time to have a break and get your co-skipper up on deck. Two hours on then two hours off is the regime, other than sail changes when you are both on deck for speed of gear change and, indeed, safety.

You know you should reduce sail area in these conditions but the competition, though out of sight, is there. Are they going faster? Are they on a different and better course? The gremlin that is your competitive spirit sits on your shoulder whispering that the other boats are hot on your heels, just over the horizon, driving you on through the fatigue to ever increasing levels of speed and risk. Down below where the boat’s speed and

HOOSING A CO-SKIPPER for an around-the-world race is probably the single most important decision made in the entire project. Clearly this person needs to be an excellent sailor who has the practical aptitude and techniques of a shorthanded racer, but this is by no means enough. You will be spending upwards of 45 days with this person in a living space no greater than the average garden shed, in

Balancing these almost-too-tough challenges will be the most unimaginable highs - the boat powering along at full speed under your fingertips; glorious nights carving a phosphorescent wake under a milky way sky; the immense satisfaction of pulling off a tactical coup against your competitors. In essence the highs will be very high, the lows very low. How your coskipper reacts to this emotional roller-coaster will be as important to the success of your race as his sail trimming skills.

ITH A WORKFORCE of just two onboard it is smart to sail with someone who has a complementary skill-set to your own. A modern race yacht is a complex machine that is crammed with high-tech systems. Electrical, mechanical, electronic, IT and hydraulic systems are all essential to the yacht being competitive and all require maintenance and repairs whilst on the racetrack. Both of you knowing how to swap out a faulty alternator is fine but rather pointless if neither of you know how to fix a hydraulic problem, so an important part of the training must be to ensure that between you there is a certain level of technical competence to cover any eventuality. At times you will be many thousands of miles from the nearest technician, so self-sufficiency is key.

NBOARD ERGONOMICS are basic in the extreme. On deck life is wet, wet, wet. These yachts sail at such speeds that an almost permanent spray is flying from the front of

Official magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race

the boat arriving in the cockpit with the force of a fire-hose. Down below in the tiny cabin, there is a one ring gas stove for cooking, a rudimentary bunk to sleep in, a bucket for a toilet, a navigation station which could belong on a space shuttle it is so jammed with electronic displays and computers. Every spare cubic metre is filled with the unused sails, stacked for weight efficiency. Everything is damp and condensation drips from the ceiling.

HE NOISY GENERATOR generator sitting front and centre must run every 6-8 hours for an hour or so in order to recharge the ship’s batteries – the ship’s heart. Sleeping through the clatter of the generator when off-watch will become second nature, the warmth it creates is a blessing in the cold high latitudes of the South, but through the tropics it will push the cabin temperature up to an unbearable 50 degrees centigrade. Living together in such conditions will be testing, to say the least. The basics of personal hygiene, tidiness and a good sense of humour will be of paramount importance. After all, do you really want to spend 40-plus days at sea with someone who is grumpy and stinks, even if they are a good sailor? Frustration with annoying idiosyncrasies of your co-skipper would be a waste of precious energy and eat away at your competitive edge.

global

HE CREW WILL PROBABLY average just 6 hours sleep each per 24 hours and this will mostly be sleep broken by the need for sail changes, problems on deck, the need to download weather data or upload media images. Fatigue will be a constant factor. Tired people make poor decisions and in recognition of this the pair will need to discuss every major decision made onboard thoroughly, double and triple checking the data to guard against error. There is nothing more demoralising than expending the massive effort to change a sail only to realise that you have put the wrong one up! Fatigue is also the best friend of impatience and ill-humour, so however well a double-handed team normally get on there will be flashpoints during a long race when things get heated. It is not unknown for co-skippers to argue to the point of squaring up to each other, fists clenched. It could be over a tactical decision or even over who ate the last chicken curry without sharing it!

T THIS STAGE IT WILL BE best to have not chosen a partner whose hobby is boxing, much better to have someone with a temperament that you know bounces back to normal quickly after a disagreement. Ultimately, however, the most important factor in your relationship must be trust because your life is in the hands of your co-skipper. This

trust can only be won from each other through thousands of miles of sailing together during training and sharing dangerous moments.

INDING THE RIGHT PERSON to share a challenge such as the Portimão Global Ocean Race is not easy at all. What is almost certainly sure though, is that the winning tandem will be the most harmonious. Talented, driven, technically competent, thoughtful of small courtesies, even-tempered, able to dig very deep both physically and mentally these are the prerequisite qualities. And they must be wrapped in a person who does not just want to take up this type of challenge but must desire it completely.

ALFWAY AROUND THE planet, your co-skipper appears at your side 5 minutes before he is due on watch. He hands you a cup of sugary tea and takes the helm from you. With glee he informs you that on the latest position report you have pulled out another 10 miles ahead of the fleet. He suggests that you need to go below and get some rest because having downloaded the latest weather data, it looks like another sail change will be required before daybreak. Stepping below you see that he has cleared up the cabin and left you half of the last chicken curry warm on the stove. Half way round the planet you are pretty sure you have the right person with you!

MUSTO On Board O

NE YEAR AFTER WINNING AN OLYMPIC Silver Medal in the Flying Dutchman class during the Tokyo Olympics, Keith Musto joined forces with Eddie Hyde to create Musto and Hyde Sailmakers. Keith soon realized that sailing clothing was particularly wanting. In the 60s there was none of the lightweight, waterproof and breathable materials that have become so commonplace. It was either keep the water out with heavy, stiff, sweaty PVC, or get wet wearing natural fabrics. So, while Eddie Hyde continued to make the successful sails that still bear his name, Keith Musto started making breakthrough clothing and accessories in the 70s, and finally made the complete break in 1980, forming MUSTO Ltd. Through the 80s and into the 90s, MUSTO continued to make breakthrough clothing, moving from their starting point in dinghy clothing to make a name for themselves in the offshore world. The French singlehanded sailors soon realized the benefits of offshore clothing that would keep them warm and dry therefore allowing them to work at maximum efficiency. The Transat, the Vendee and then the fully crewed Whitbread – later the Volvo Ocean Race - became almost the exclusive province of MUSTO clothing.

all the top ocean sailing achievers: Francis Joyon – who took Ellen’s Round the World record - wore MUSTO as do the vast majority of the sailors in the current Transat and the upcoming Vendee Globe Race. We are thrilled that MUSTO has agreed to become the Official Clothing Supplier of the Portimão Global Ocean Race and look forward to sporting their stylish, practical clothes around the world.

USTO WAS THE FIRST COMPANY TO introduce the three layer system to sailing and I still have and frequently use the same gear more than two decades later, albeit for skiing rather than sailing. The three layer system was the perfect way to “layer up” as the weather changed. Below decks while off watch we hung out in our MUSTO thermals. Time for watch and we added a layer of polar gear and if the spray was flying we would don either a one-piece or two-piece foul weather suit. With the hood snugged down and the flaps around my boots and wrists tightened there was very little the Southern Ocean could throw at us that made a difference. “We are delighted that MUSTO is the official clothing supplier of the Portimão Global Ocean Race.”

N 1995 A CHANCE PROVISION OF A SET OF clothing for a young sailor named Ellen MacArthur who wanted to sail around Britain, started a relationship that continues to this day. All Ellen’s achievements have been with MUSTO and her new Team Ellen is fully equipped with MUSTO clothing. MUSTO clothing is worn by

Official magazine of the Portimão Global Ocean Race

The Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s First Solo Double Global Ocean Race