13. Great Food Magazine Autumn 2012

greatfood HANDMADE IN THE HEART OF ENGLAND

H A RV E ST 2 012 £ 3 . 4 0

www.greatfoodmag.co.uk

Celebrating local food & drink

In praise of the...

Lincolnshire sausage Love, protect and respect it!

STICHELTON

The story behind the heir to Stilton’s throne

FREE TIGER ALE RECIPE BOOKLET

Bramley revival

RECIPES, REVIEWS AND PRODUCERS All the details you need for a delicious autumn P43

Full guide to the East Midlands Food Festival

P20

Divine autumn recipes from Wyldelight Kitchen

P60

The Guyrope Gourmet cooks up an al fresco storm

SAVE £120 FREE Great Food dining card for EVERY reader – p68

PLUS..

Oundle Food Festival photos Great pub walk for new mums Help to design a real country inn Beer ‘n’ bangers in Northants

ISSUE 13

Also inside...

Nottinghamshire’s famous cooking apple gets a new lease of life

£3.40

Make fab food with local beer

Welcome

Welcome to the Harvest 2012 Issue of Great Food. As you may have deduced from the front cover, this issue has a Lincolnshire sausage theme running throughout some of its pages. As one of our region’s favourite but generally unsung foods, we wanted to pay tribute to this delicious local creation, especially as the application to protect its name has recently been rejected (see p12). But it’s not all bangers! You can also enjoy Caribbean recipes (p26), the fascinating story of Stichelton cheese (p22), pictures from six local food festivals and much more besides. This issue also doubles up as the show guide to the East Midlands Food and Drink Festival (see p43).

Finally, I’m hugely excited to point out that Great Food Club, which we launched last year to showcase the region’s best pubs, restaurants and delis, is now free to join. If you go to www.greatfoodclub.co.uk and fill in the form, we’ll send you a membership card – completely free of charge – enabling you to save around £120 a year when eating out.

Can’t be bad! Turn to p68 for more information.

Contents

NEWS & NIBBLES 4 Bramley Revival 6 News 10 Events Diary

THE MAIN EVENT 12 16 18 22

The Quest for an Honest Sausage Sean Hope cooks...

Recipes from Wyldelight Kitchen Stichelton

SIDE DISHES 26 27 28 30 31 32 34 35

Tan Rosie’s Caribbean Classics Subscription offer Derbyshire Food Festival Reader’s recipe 1 Georgie’s selections Nobby’s Brewery Brown’s Gourmet Sausages Reader’s recipe 2

BACK FOR SECONDS 36 37 38 40

Oundle Food Festival BBC Good Food’s Summer Show From Sty to Sausage Stamford Feast: The Big Lunch

EAST MIDLANDS FOOD FEST 44 46 50 52 54

Festival guide and floorplan Exhibitor profiles Heart of Gold rapeseed oil Rachel Green recipe Gourmet Spice’s Producer Diary

PUDDING matthew.wright@greatfoodmag.co.uk www.greatfoodmag.co.uk www.greatfoodclub.co.uk Twitter: @greatfoodmag EDITOR & PUBLISHER: Matthew Wright AD SALES: Dawn Kenton and Wendy Turland – 07429 193781, wendy@greatfoodmag.co.uk, dawn.kenton@greatfoodmag.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS: 01664 853341 PUBLISHED BY: Rocco Media, 7 Victoria Street, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 0AR PRINTED & DISTRIBUTED BY: Warners Midlands plc

THANKS TO: PJM, Enzo Jnr, GW, JW, JM, Enzo Snr, Lisa, Tim Burke, Penny Smith, Carmela Hayes, Hazel Paterson, Jack Thorpe, Laura Harvey, Rachel Dorsett, John Harris, Shelly Preston, Erin Huckle, Georgie Mason, Mark Hughes, Sean Hope, Helen Tarver, Mark Hamilton, Josh Sutton and... Rocco the Jack Russell.

WEBSITES: @paulbunkham Full Ts & Cs are on our website STOCK PHOTOS: Shutterstock

COVER WATERCOLOUR: Bangers and Mash, by Graham Wright.

GREAT FOOD IS QUARTERLY: NEXT ISSUE OUT NOV 1, 2012 2 Great Food Magazine

56 58 60 61 62

Notes from the Veg Patch Buggy-friendly pub walk The Guyrope Gourmet Foodie Gift Hunter Dream Kitchen

WHERE TO EAT SECTION 66 67 68 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 82

Restaurant News Hammer & Pincers, Wymeswold FREE Great Food Club offer Rutland pub reviews Mystery Muncher visits Sat Bains Watson Fothergills, Nottingham Fumo, Birmingham The Garden Barn, Cotesbach Opus, Birmingham; Sanctuary, Notts Wedding Venue Map Great Food Club Map

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,

Waiting for harvest

THE BIG PICTURE

How fruit grower Sir John Starkey is breathing new life into Southwellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous Bramley

4 Great Food Magazine

Bramley apples

ARTICLE & PHOTOS: MATT WRIGHT

S

The Bramley’s roots

“You can’t grow an apple tree by just planting a pip – one in a million might work, but that’s about it,” says John. The original Bramley apple tree in Southwell represents that one in a million chance.

When Mary Ann Brailsford planted an apple pip in her Southwell back garden in 1810, she probably didn’t know the odds were stacked against anything growing.

Indeed, she moved house before her tree had borne fruit. It was only when Matthew Bramley, a butcher, tasted the apples growing in his new back garden that the story takes off. Mr Bramley introduced his apples to a horticulturist, Henry Merryweather, who asked to graft from the butcher’s tree. He did, and the fame of this tasty cooking apple spread. In 1910, Sir John Starkey’s grandfather started growing Bramleys at Norwood Park after teaming up with Mr Merryweather.

ir John Starkey, a third-generation fruit grower, is pictured with Discovery apples on his 400-acre estate – Norwood Park in Southwell, Notts. It’s late July and these Discoveries – one of several English apple varieties grown in Norwood Park’s orchards – are a month or two from being ready to pick.

Nearby are 2,500 of John’s beloved – and very special – Bramley apple trees, which he planted three years ago.

They grow just a short distance from the world’s original Bramley apple tree, which, having sprung up miraculously from a pip in 1810, still thrives in the back garden of Nancy Harrison’s house in Southwell. John’s Bramley trees are special not only because they strengthen the link between Southwell and Bramley apples, but also because they grow on their own root system, having been deep-planted in a unique way. This is in contrast to almost every other Bramley tree in the world, which grows on a different type of tree’s roots after being grafted on as a bud.

“Bramleys from trees with genuine Bramley roots are tastier than those from standard grafted trees,” says John.

“No sugar is needed – they’re slightly sweeter. I’ve grown both varieties and blind-tested both.” John uses his Bramleys to produce compote in jars (pictured above). “We don’t add anything except water – there’s no need,” he says.

So why are the Norwood trees unique? “They originate from two identical clones of the very first Bramley apple tree,” explains John. “In 1988 the University of Nottingham cloned the original Southwell Bramley tree using tissue culture: they took a tip of its leaf and grew it in the lab. I happened to be planting a Bramley orchard at the same time and was on the council at the University, so we thought it would be good to use the clone commercially.

“The Bramley clone arrived in a pot looking like a weedy tomato plant. I thought it would die in the wild but within a few years it had outgrown my grafted Bramley apple trees.

I had to slow it down, hold it back and tie it down.” It hasn’t withered but instead, with John’s passion, has led to a resurgence in Bramley growing at Southwell.

During the harvest, when John’s 2,500 Bramley apple trees have absorbed the autumn sunshine and goodness from the Southwell clay soil, the fruit will be plucked from their branches and eventually eaten, continuing the 200-year association of Nottinghamshire and England’s most famous cooking apple. Q CONTACT Starkey’s Fruit, Norwood Park, Southwell, Nottinghamshire NG25 0PF, starkey@farming.co.uk, 0780 1227194

Great Food Magazine 5

What’s

Cooking?

Jo Clarke of Leics Handmade Cheese, which now makes Battlefield Blue

NEWS PAGES BY: TIM BURKE (TIM.BURKE@GREATFOODMAG.CO.UK)

Small SAUSAGE APPEAL The Lincs Sausage Association has appealed against Defra’s decision not to support its application to gain Protected Geographical Indication status for the Lincolnshire sausage.

Defra argues there is no enduring link between the product and the county. Also see p12. www.lincolnshiresausages.co.uk

BALTI PROTECTION The Birmingham Balti Association is consulting on whether to apply to protect the city’s famous style of curry. A 12-week process ending in September is inviting views on whether to go for ‘Traditional Speciality Guaranteed’ status. www.balti-birmingham.co.uk

KING’S ARMS SAUCES Customer requests have led the King’s Arms in Wing, Rutland, to make a variety of its sauces and dressings available to take away. The initial range includes Rutland Ale Mustard, Fruity Brown Sauce, Thai Chilli Sauce and Tomato Sauce. www.thekings arms-wing.co.uk

GLOBE REFIT The Globe, one of Leicester city centre’s few remaining traditional pubs, has reopened following a £100,000 refit.

The Silver Street pub has been serving ale and food since 1720 and is reputed to be haunted by three ghosts. Original wooden features have been revealed in the retro refit, including gas wall lamps. www.theglobeleicester.co.uk

JAIPUR PLAUDITS Jaipur IPA from Derbyshire’s Thornbridge Brewery has been named one of the 50 top food and drink products in the UK by the Guild of Fine Foods. It won three stars in 2012’s Great Taste Awards. greattasteawards.co.uk/top50

6 Great Food Magazine

REGION’S DAIRIES ROLL OUT NEW BLUE CHEESES Heart of England’s portfolio of artisan cheeses grows

T

he Midlands’ reputation for artisan cheeses has received a boost with leading dairies launching new blue cheeses.

Earlier this year, Leicestershire Handmade Cheese Company of Market Bosworth unveiled Battlefield Blue, a soft, unpasteurised cheese.

Now Leicestershire’s Long Clawson Dairy has released four cheeses under the name Claxstone, the old name for its home village.

The range includes a new Blue Stilton, a Shropshire Blue, a Claxstone Smooth Blue and a six-month matured Leicestershire Red. Within weeks of release, the Smooth Blue won the Supreme Champion Prize at the National Cheese Awards at the Royal Bath Show.

New from Stilton rival Cropwell Bishop is Beauvale, a creamy blue in the style of a Gorgonzola or St Agur. Production is currently on a small scale – up to around 15 cheeses a week – and only a few selected outlets are stocking it at this stage, including the Melton Cheeseboard, Gonalston Farm Shop and the Cheese Shop in Nottingham. Georgie Mason, director of Gonalston Farm Shop in Nottinghamshire said Beauvale was flying off their deli counter: “It’s creamy, addictive and people are loving it. The dairy has spent years perfecting it and I think this is going to be a great cheese for the future.”

One of Long Clawson Dairy’s new Claxstone cheeses

Lincolnshire’s Lymn Bank Farm has launched Skegness Blue, a departure from its well-known range of flavoured Cheddars. Cheesemaker Stephen Grinstead said: “It’s gone well in the trials and we’ve come up with something that is slightly creamier and less blue than a Stilton.”

Colleague Gemma Grinstead told Great Food that getting blue cheese right was a difficult process and they would be starting slowly.

“We’re selling at farmers’ markets and food fairs to begin with – that way we control what we produce rather than being put under pressure by suppliers.” The new cheese should be followed by Skegness Gold, a traditional clothbound Cheddar.

Olive Branch is our best Michelin bargain Rutland pub The Olive Branch has come third out of 129 restaurants in a league table of the UK’s most affordable Michelin-starred eateries. The list was compiled by thetrainline.com. The Olive Branch made the list for its £16.95 two-course set lunch, which recently featured potted prawns with melba toast, followed by pan-fried fillet of salmon with parsnip.

The Olive Branch

For restaurant news, turn to p66

Local food news

Rocco SLOW FOOD CHEFS PROMISE Recommends NEW ALLIANCE

TO SUPPORT LOCAL FOOD

Top Midlands restaurants make local sourcing commitment

T

op chefs from around the Midlands gathered at Sat Bains’ restaurant in Nottingham over the summer to make a commitment to using small-scale producers and sustainably-sourced high quality produce.

The event saw the launch of the Midlands Chefs’ Alliance for Slow Food UK and guests were treated to a special menu from doubleMichelin-starred chef Bains, featuring “forgotten foods” – fine produce in danger of disappearing because of current food systems.

Members of the Alliance are encouraged to champion high quality local producers, to use seasonal produce and local specialities, and to spread the word by contributing to an education programme. Slow Food UK states that all types of establishment will be welcomed into the Alliance but membership is by invitation only.

Tom Cockerill of Leicester’s Entropy said he was “thrilled” to be invited to join the Alliance, as the values of the Slow Food movement are synonymous with his restaurant’s own ethos.

Catherine Gazzoli, chief executive of Slow Food UK, said it was critical to support the region’s food heritage and she was looking to increase the Alliance’s Midlands listings: “I am thrilled but not surprised that so many chefs

“Excellent places that let me in”

WENSLEYDALE HEIFER, WEST WITTON, YORKS

ABOVE: Local chefs at the launch of the Alliance BELOW: Tom Cockerill of Leicester’s Entropy

“Down came the rain as my paws slithered through mud and nettles stung my nose.

As far as walkies went, this was bad. Almost as dismal as the time master got lost and we ended up on the A14. However, light appeared at the end of the tunnel in the form of the Wensleydale Heifer – a pub so welcoming that the landlord wanted to pat my muddy bits in front of the fire. And the food was very special. Next time you’re in the Yorkshire Dales, you must visit the Heifer...”

The Wensleydale Heifer, West Witton, North Yorkshire, 01969 622322 www.wensleydaleheifer.co.uk

from the region are interested, as there is such an innate understanding and connection to food and farming here. Local people know that good food can make people proud of where they live and can increase food tourism as well.”

FORAGE AT FISCHER’S

Gather wildly in October

D

erbyshire’s Michelin-starred restaurant Fischer’s at Baslow Hall is holding a foraging event on October 23. Dr Patrick Harding (pictured left in the grounds of Baslow Hall), author of eight books on the subject, will lead the wild food day. Fischer’s chefs will then cook a special three-course lunch using locally gathered goodies. The day – including lunch and a glass of wine – costs £55. Call 01246 583259 to book or visit www.fischers-baslowhall.co.uk.

Local farmers up for awards Midlands farmers feature on the shortlists for the Farmer’s Weekly Farmer of the Year Awards. Kevin Stokes (left) of Farndon Fields Farm near Market Harborough is one of three finalists in the Local Food Farmer section, having increased turnover at his farm shop ten-fold with the addition of a butchery and café.

Andrew Brown of Rutland is shortlisted in the Countryside Farmer section for commitment to sustainability, including creation of a community woodland and a birdbox scheme.

The finalists find out their fate at a ceremony in October.

For more information, visit http://awards.fwi.co.uk.

Delectable deli DELILAH FINE FOODS Nottingham deli Delilah Fine Foods has won the East Midlands title in the Deli of the Year awards (www.delioftheyear.co.uk). The deli/café on Middle Pavement beat off competition from 31 other nominated delis across the region and goes through to the national awards, which are held on September 3. Great Food also understands there are expansion plans for the deli in the autumn. www.delilahfinefoods.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 7

What’s

Cooking?

Farm restaurant reopens under a new team

In Brief

T

NORTHANTS AWARDS The Pickled Village, The Village Orchard, Zoe’s Biscuit Tin, Rossi’s of Kettering and Gourmet Spice Company have all made the shortlist in the New Local Product category in the Northants Food and Drink Awards. Judging was set to take at the end of August. www.letyourselfgrow.com/ foodanddrinkawards

UKRAINIAN BISCUITS A family recipe for traditional Ukrainian biscuits has helped Leicester resident Oksana Romankiew launch an online business. The company – called ebiscuit – sells homemade orishki: shortcrust pastry shells with a walnut caramel filling (pictured). www.ebiscuit.co.uk

SHELLY GRABS AWARD Nottinghamshire chocolatier Shelly Preston has won a silver medal at the International Chocolate Awards.

The founder of Welbeck-based Boutique Aromatique won the award for her mint and basil dark chocolate.

“It’s great to fly the flag for fine chocolate against established London houses,” she said. www.boutiquearomatique.com

REGENERATION TARGET Leicester mayor Sir Peter Soulsby wants to see the city’s waterside areas revived with new leisure facilities including restaurants and pubs. The mayor is local chair of the Canal and River Trust and said he is looking at plans to support new and existing businesses. http://canalrivertrust.org.uk

LEICESTERSHIRE PIE Three local businesses have teamed up to launch a flagship regional product. The Leicestershire Steak and Ale pie was created to mark the 30th anniversary of butcher and deli Clarke’s of Queniborough, and includes beef from Leicester Tigers star Julian White’s South Devon herd, and Tiger ale from Leicestershire brewer Everards. www.clarkesqueniborough.co.uk

8 Great Food Magazine

LES ROSBIFS AT NORTHFIELD

Fruit and veg on sale at Northfield Farm Shop, next door to Les Rosbifs

he restaurant at Rutland’s Northfield Farm has reopened under a new team. It is now called Les Rosbifs.

Styled on French farm restaurants, the aim is to offer good local, seasonal food in an informal, rural setting.

The new restaurant is a family affair, managed by Sallie Hooper, known to many through her role with local food sector body Leicestershire Food Links.

Head chef is son Duncan, previously of the Queen’s Head, Nassington, and front of house is handled by other sons George and Oliver. On the menu, naturally, is plenty of beef from Northfield Farm, but Hooper will be using her contact book to source from a variety of East Midlands producers. The evening menu might feature slow-braised beef, black treacle and Belvoir Ale pie, and a trifle with soft fruit from Ed Mills’ farm in Wymeswold.

SIX BREWSTERS MAKE NEW ALE Everards licensees team up to produce ‘Malty Tasker’

A

team of female licensees has brewed a new beer in tribute to feminine versatility.

The Malty Tasker blonde ale was the result of three days’ work by six ladies at Everards brewery, Leicestershire, as part of the Everards Gold Course – an advanced beer and cellar management training certificate.

The beer will go on sale at the participating licensees’ pubs with a possible wider roll out across the Everards pub estate.

The Malty Tasker team (pictured) included three Nottinghamshire-based licensees: Elaine Delaney of the Admiral Rodney, Calverton; Sue Woolley of the Sun Inn, Gotham; and Alison Ryan of the Hearty Goodfellow, Southwell.

There were also three Leicestershire-based licensees: Helen Foster of the Bull’s Head, Clipston; Dawn Moore of the Coach and Horses, Lubenham; and Sarah Cunnington of the Black Horse, Aylestone.

Fine foods website

Local food blog joy

rustration with not being able to order fine foods online has led to the creation of a website promising to deliver luxury items anywhere in the UK within 48 hours.

Excellentfoods.co.uk, founded by Frenchman Nicolas Boutar, sells artisan foods from around the world. The website features one supplier for each food category who represents the best combination of quality and value.

Currently most of the 250 products are French and Italian – such as truffles from Provence, foie gras from Les Landes and olive oils from Molise in Southern Italy.

“The idea is not to overload the site, but to test products and offer the best,” said Boutar. “Also, we are not just middlemen – we hold stock ourselves and guarantee to deliver to the Midlands or anywhere in the UK within 48 hours.”

elton mum Heidi Rowe said she was “excited and thrilled” when her blog Mamacook (http://mamacook. blogspot.co.uk) was shortlisted for a major award. Launched in 2007, her blog focuses on healthy food for children.

Heidi just missed out on the top prize in the BritMums Brilliance in Blogging Awards.

F

M

Young writer recognised

B

arkaat Ahmed, 14, from Birmingham has been highly commended in a competition to find the Young Food Writer of the Year. Barkaat’s evocation of a trip to an ice-cream maker in Marrakech was one of five shortlisted finalists in the 2012 Write It! competition run by the Guild of Food Writers. To read the full piece, and those of other finalists, visit www.gfw.co.uk

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Our multi-award winning farm shop offers all the very best fresh fruit, vegetables, quality meat, deli counter and fresh fish all under one roof, notyour to mention other wonderful â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;foodieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;look delights, Give homelots or ofgarden that unique gifts and fine wines. If you love food, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll love Gonalston Farm Shop.

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EVENTS

Plan your autumn food and drink schedule

September 8-9

LEAMINGTON SPA FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL, Pump Room Gardens,

Please check with organisers of all events before setting off

Diary...

2

Leamington Spa, 10am-6pm, free

September 9

COUNTRY MARKET, Easton Walled Gardens, near Grantham, 11am-4pm, £6.25 adults, £2 children, 01476 530063, www.eastonwalledgardens.co.uk

September 15

1

RUTLAND FOOD FESTIVAL,

1

Sykes Lane, Empingham, 10am-6pm, free entry (small parking fee), www.discover-rutland.co.uk

September 22-23

STRATFORD UPON AVON FOOD FESTIVAL, Waterside

Nick Funnell (right), head chef at RSC’s Rooftop Restaurant, demos at last year’s Stratford Food Fest

2

Recreation Ground, Stratford, Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 10am-5:30pm, £5, www.stratfordfoodfestival.co.uk

September 21-23

September 22-23

3

PIE FEST!, Market Square,

Melton Mowbray, Sat 10am till late, Sun 10am-3pm, free, www.piefest.co.uk

4pm, £5 in advance/children free, www.eastmidlandsfoodfestival.co.uk – see p43

October 13

DIPLOMA OPEN DAY, School of

September 22-23

Artisan Food, Welbeck, Nottinghamshire, 10.45am- 1.30pm, free, 01909 532171, www.schoolofartisanfood.org

from 12pm each day, £3 (free to CAMRA members/Great Central ticket holders), www.gcrailway.co.uk

Rockingham Castle, near Corby, 10am-5pm, adults £6, under 16s £3, under 5s free, www.oakleighfairs.co.uk/rockingham

October 14

September 22 – October 7

October 6-7

county, www.goleicestershire.com

Melton Mowbray, Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 10am to

GREAT CENTRAL BEER FESTIVAL, Loughborough Central Station,

LEICESTERSHIRE FOOD FORTNIGHT, events all around the city and

ROCKINGHAM COUNTRY FAIR,

EAST MIDLANDS FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL, Cattle Market,

BILLESDON ANNUAL FARMERS’ MARKET AND FAMILY FUN DAY, Coplow Community Centre, Billesdon, Leicestershire, 11am-3pm, free

October 25-27

BIRMINGHAM BEER FESTIVAL,

3

100 Sherlock St, Birmingham, 11am-11pm each day, £3/£4/£5, birminghambeerfestival.org.uk

October 27

LINCOLNSHIRE SAUSAGE FESTIVAL, Lincoln Castle 10am-4pm, free, tastesoflincolnshire.com – see p14

For a regularly updated events diary, go to greatfood mag.co.uk

LOOKING FURTHER AHEAD… NOVEMBER 10, Christmas Pudding Club, Wooton Community Centre, Northampton NOVEMBER 10-12, Three-Day Artisan Bread Course, School of Artisan Food, Welbeck NOVEMBER 17-24, French cookery class, The Old Bakery, Lincoln NOVEMBER 28 - DECEMBER 2, BBC Winter Good Food Show, NEC, Birmingham

10 Great Food Magazine

great food 2012_great food 2011 09/08/2012 09:58 Page 1

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LOCAL PRODUCE

THE QUEST FOR AN HONEST SAUSAGE Defra’s refusal to protect Lincolnshire sausages raises issues about honest food labelling WORDS: MATT WRIGHT PHOTOS: CLIVE DOYLE

W

hen you see the words ‘farm shop’, what springs to mind? A farmer selling what he’s grown on site, or a fancy food shop with no direct link to agriculture? If you read a label stating ‘British-produced bacon’, what should you assume? That it’s been reared on UK farms, or mass-produced abroad and cut in Britain? When you eat a ‘Lincolnshire’ sausage, would you be right in thinking it had been produced in Lincolnshire to a certain specification, or that it had originated somewhere in the EU and contained mechanically recovered meat? To each question, the second answer is possible and – more often than not – correct. Welcome to the world of food

labelling, where honesty is stretched to its limits in pursuit of profits.

In June 2012, Defra rejected an eight-year campaign by the Lincolnshire Sausage Association to give Lincolnshire sausages Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status.

The Association wants to make it unlawful for sausages labelled ‘Lincolnshire’ to be made anywhere other than in England’s secondlargest county, and produced to a certain specification. Seems logical, right? Not according to Defra, which – to sum up its 14-page explanation – sees the link between the county and the sausage as too vague to write into law. Defra says ‘Lincolnshire sausage’ has become a general term describing a type of herby pork sausage.

Objections to Defra over the PGI application were raised by several sausage-makers based outside Lincolnshire and by the powerful British Retail Consortium (BRC), which exists to protect the interests of retailers, including Asda, Burger King and Greggs. BRC spokesman Richard Dodd told Great Food: “The vast majority of Lincolnshire sausages are now made outside the county [95%] and to have to call them something else now would be confusing.”

It could, of course, be argued that this confusion has arisen precisely because the term ‘Lincolnshire sausage’ has been abused over the years, and this confusion is, in fact, a good reason to grant PGI status. The Lincolnshire Sausage Association (LSA) takes this view and has lodged an appeal. Janet Godfrey, who chairs the LSA, says: “Defra appears to have rejected the application on two main grounds; firstly it claims there is no enduring reputation and link between the Lincolnshire sausage and the county. Secondly it claims the overwhelming majority of Lincs sausages are produced outside the county. We contest these points.”

A trip to the farm…

Genuine farm shop Terry and Jane Tomlinson in front of their farm shop, which sells free range pork reared outdoors in the surrounding fields

12 54 Great EnjoyFood great Magazine food Leicestershire & Rutland

Redhill Farm Free Range Pork of Gainsborough was named Lincs Producer of the Year 2012. Not only do farmer/owners Jane and Terry Tomlinson raise pigs outdoors on their 185 acre farm, they also produce their own award-winning Lincs sausages, black pudding, haslet and more, right down to the lard used in their pork pies’ handraised pastry.

LEFT: The only herb used in genuine Lincs sausages, such as these from Redhill Farm, is sage. However, the lack of PGI status means virtually anything can go into a sausage labelled ‘Lincolnshire’.

RIGHT: Redhill Farm’s pigs – a Duroc/Landrace cross

WHAT IS A GENUINE LINCOLNSHIRE SAUSAGE? The Lincolnshire Sausage Association says a proper Lincolnshire sausage should be produced, processed or prepared in Lincolnshire, although the pork doesn’t have to be raised in the county. It should contain at least 70% pork, coarsely ground to give an open texture, and sage should be the only herb used. Finally, a Lincs sausage should contain bread rusk or breadcrumb, seasoning, and be wrapped in a natural casing.

Redhill Farm’s Freedom Food-accredited pigs have space to roam

The Redhill Farm Free Range Pork team

Great Food Magazine 13

LOCAL PRODUCE

Redhill Farm also makes pork and leek sausages

Damon Rouse ties sausages in Redhill’s butchery

They sell their products directly to the public at county farmers’ markets and from their own farm shop. Not surprisingly, Jane and Terry are passionate about food provenance and honest labelling. Great Food visited Redhill Farm to hear their story and get their view on the Lincolnshire sausage debate.

“We’ve been pig farming since 1991 but seven years after setting up, we were forced to change our approach,” says Jane. “We were producing good free range pork and had a contract with a local bacon factory. We embrace costly high welfare standards but the factory cut us off because it was able to import low-grade pork from abroad and classify it as British.”

It was at this point that Jane and Terry made the bold decision to gain more control by producing and selling pork as well as farming pigs. This move added to their passion about transparency and provenance, as well as to their workload. “We were appalled that bacon could be packaged and legally sold as ‘Britishproduced’ just because it had been cut in the UK,” says Jane. “This is despite the fact it had been produced abroad in a way that would have been illegal in the UK. Not much has changed since then either – food labels are still often misleading.”

Jane also talks about a local family butcher – “the sort who hangs game in the window” – who she discovered was selling pork produced

14 54 Great EnjoyFood greatMagazine food Leicestershire & Rutland

THE BIG LINCS SAUSAGE FESTIVAL 2012 Lincs sausages have their own free festival, which takes place in the grounds of Lincoln Castle on Saturday, October 27, 10am to 4pm. Present again will be the Redhill Farm Free Range Pork Children’s Marquee – introduced by Jane Tomlinson in 2009 – which will host cookery demos designed to engage with younger children.

Last year the festival attracted over 10,000 visitors to Lincoln.

cheaply overseas. “I was shocked because he gave the impression he was selling high-welfare British pork.

It just shows you always need to ask whether the meat you’re buying or eating is what you think it is.”

For Jane and Terry, it’s about simple honesty. “We have no problem with cheaply produced meat as long as it’s labelled correctly,” says Jane.

Money is behind the misleading of consumers, says Terry. “High-welfare farming increases pork production costs by 20p per kilo and plenty of sellers, including many supermarkets and butchers, aren’t prepared to pay for it,” he says. So instead of footing the bill, some sellers give the impression their goods are highwelfare using cunning – some might say cynical – marketing. Pictures of friendly farmers on packets, for example, or cleverly placed words giving the right impression.

Money talks Cash is also behind Defra’s rejection of the PGI application, claim Jane and Terry. And with around £650 million a year spent on sausages in the UK,

the figures back up their argument.

“I think the BRC was instrumental in blocking the application,” says Jane.

“There is too much vested interest,” Terry agrees. “People make vast sums from sausages labelled ‘Lincolnshire’ and they’re not going to let that go.”

So what’s next for Lincolnshire sausages? Jane thinks it will be far from easy for the Lincs Sausage Association to convince Defra to change its mind. “We should have got the PGI but it will be tough to get it now,” she says. “So we need to focus on getting the message out that people who want genuine Lincs sausages should visit the county or buy them online from a good local producer.”

Another option is to try to gain PGI status for the term ‘Traditional Lincolnshire Sausages’ in the same way ‘Traditional Cumberland Sausages’ are protected. But this isn’t something Redhill Farm supports.

“The word ‘traditional’ has been so abused that it’s almost meaningless on food labels,” Jane says.

In the forest of legal jargon in the Defra report rejecting the PGI application, it’s easy to lose sight that food labelling should be honest and straightforward. That includes Lincs sausages, which should surely be sausages produced in the county, made in the traditional way. Q CONTACT Redhill Farm Free Range Pork, Blyton Carr, Gainsborough, Lincolnshire DN21 3DT, 01427 628270, www.redhillfarm.com

N Z

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Food Fun this Summer!

RECIPES REGIONAL FOOD

Sean Hope cooks...

A Stilton smasher and a Lincolnshire sausage spectacular

T

hese two recipes are from Sean Hope, head chef and proprietor of two award-winning local pubs: The Olive Branch in Clipsham, Rutland, and The Red Lion Inn in Stathern, Leicestershire. We asked Sean for dishes that would celebrate both Lincolnshire sausages and the East Midlands Food and Drink Festival.

These are typical of the food served at Sean’s pubs.

Potted Stilton with Toasted Hambleton Bakery Sourdough and Grape and Apple Chutney Serves 4

* 250g Cropwell Bishop

Stilton, softened * 125g mascarpone * 2 tbsp sherry vinegar * 25ml medium dry sherry * 4 sticks celery, peeled and cut into batons * 120g black seedless grapes * 4 slices sourdough, toasted

1 Crumble Stilton and mascarpone in a bowl and beat until smooth.

2 Gradually add the sherry vinegar and sherry until completely incorporated.

3 Place into pots and refrigerate until required.

A deliciously rich and spicy casserole

Braised Lincolnshire Sausage and Puy Lentil Casserole with Roasted Butternut Squash Serves 4

* 8 Lincolnshire sausages * 4 rashers smoked bacon, cut into thin strips

* 100g chorizo, roughly chopped * 200g dried puy lentils * 1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped * 1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped * 2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped * 2 celery sticks, peeled and finely chopped

Grape and Apple Chutney Serves 4

* 1kg black seedless grapes * 2 large cooking apples,

peeled, cored and chopped

* 1 large white onion, finely diced

* 200g muscovado sugar * 100ml balsamic vinegar * 100ml red wine vinegar * õ stick cinnamon * 2 cloves * ô star anise * 2 bay leaves

1 Place all ingredients into a thick-bottomed pan.

2 Bring to the boil.

3 Turn down the heat and simmer for around two hours or until liquid has evaporated and chutney has thickened.

4 As chutney starts to thicken, stir every 5-10 mins.

5 Remove from the heat and store in sterilised jars.

CONTACT Olive Branch, Main St, Clipsham, Rutland LE15 7SH, 01780 410355 Red Lion Inn, Red Lion St, Stathern, Leics, LE14 4HS, 01949 860868

16 Great Food Magazine

* 2 sprigs thyme * 2 bay leaves * 100ml Madeira 1 In a thick-bottomed pan, seal the sausages until golden brown all over, then remove from the pan and set aside.

2 In the same pan, add the smoked bacon, chorizo and finely chopped vegetables and fry until golden brown (at this point do not season with salt as this causes the lentils to remain firm, meaning they will not break down to thicken the casserole).

3 Add the puy lentils.

4 Add the sherry vinegar and de-glaze the pan.

5 Add the Madeira and red wine and simmer for three to five minutes to cook off the alcohol.

* 100ml red wine * 50ml sherry vinegar * 2 tbsp tomato puree * 1 litre chicken stock * 1 pint local ale * 1 butternut squash, peeled and cut into wedges

* 50g unsalted butter * 50ml rapeseed oil * 3 sage leaves, roughly chopped * 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed * 1 sprig thyme * 2 tbsp fresh chopped tarragon 6 Stir in the tomato puree, chicken stock and ale, and bring to the boil.

7 Turn the heat down to a light simmer and allow to cook for two and a half hours, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, roast the butternut squash, sage, garlic and thyme in the butter and rapeseed oil until they are golden brown but still firm.

8 After the lentil and stock mixture has simmered for the full 90 minutes, add the sausages and cooked butternut squash and continue to simmer for a further 30 minutes, or until creamy and soft.

9 Finish with fresh chopped tarragon and a drizzle of chorizo oil.

The Jackson Stops

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SEASONAL RECIPES

Recipes from

WYLDELIGHT COTTAGE

Seasonal dishes crafted by Great Food’s resident cook and photographer, Hazel Paterson. Get in touch with her on Twitter – @HazelPaterson

T

he wonderful thing about eating seasonally is that you are always excited about what edible delights are coming around the corner. Foods become more special because their appearance is temporary, so your appreciation of them is all the more pronounced.

For gardeners and foragers alike, harvest time often results in gluts of fantastic produce and it’s when all those jam jars that we’ve been hoarding over the summer come into their own. Our preserving pans are brimming and our arms covered in lots of tiny burn marks from jam and chutney making!

Ragu with egg yolk and tagliardi

I

have used beef mince in this recipe but it also works really well with hare, rabbit or veal – and if you have some fantastic local mushrooms then throw them in, too.

Got a load of courgettes in your garden? Chop them up and pile them in! It’s such a simple recipe and doesn’t take long to cook either. Egg yolks are nature’s most perfect sauce but it is imperative that you use very fresh yolks from happy chickens fed on a natural diet. Go for organic eggs if you are unsure and remember you are not advised to eat raw eggs if you are elderly, unwell or pregnant. Some ingredients may be unfamiliar but do try and seek them out because they are fantastic additions to your larder. If you can’t find tagliardi pasta then you could use sheets of dried lasagna snapped into quarters.

18 Great Food Magazine

Serves 6

* Half a white onion, finely chopped * 10 large, fresh sage leaves * 1 carrot, finely chopped * 1 garlic clove, finely sliced * Big knob of smoked butter

(get in touch with your local smokehouse or Derimon Smokehouse – www.derimonsmokery.co.uk – which sells smoked butter online) * 1 tbsp dried fennel seeds

* 450g good beef mince (not lean) * 225g fresh, trimmed chicken livers

* 125ml cream or

amontillado sherry

* 1 tbsp powdered veal stock

(I use Essential Cuisine – www.essentialcuisine.com – which sells it online) * Small pinch freshly grated nutmeg * Tagliardi pasta

1 Melt the smoked butter and gently sweat off the onion, carrot, garlic, fennel seeds and five of the sage leaves. You want the veg to be soft but not brown.

2 Add the beef mince – you don’t want to drain the fat off as it will be absorbed by the vegetables and soften and flavour them. Once the mince has browned and the fat has been absorbed, add the chicken livers and cook gently. Once brown on the outside, add the sherry, veal stock and remaining sage leaves.

* Salt and pepper * Garlic balsamic vinegar – Little

Doone (www.littledoone.co.uk) makes a fantastic one, otherwise use grated lemon zest * Fresh egg yolk * Grana Padano cheese * Fennel fronds * Sage leaves and flowers * Extra virgin olive oil * Smoked sea salt flakes (www.halenmon.com)

Taste and season, then continue to heat gently until the livers are just cooked.

3 Cook the tagliardi in boiling salted water – it takes about four minutes. Add two ladles of pasta water to the ragu, then stir and drain your pasta.

4 To serve, layer the pasta and ragu, then gently place the egg yolk on the top. Sprinkle with freshly grated Grana Padano, a few smoked salt flakes, a touch of balsamic (or zest of lemon) and scatter the fennel and sage flowers over the top.

Finish with a drizzle of olive oil.

Recipes Lincolnshire Scotch eggs

When editor Matt Wright got in touch asking me to include a recipe using Lincolnshire sausages, I knew instantly what it would be.

All hail the humble Scotch egg!

H

omemade Scotch eggs are far better than those from the supermarket and you can add herbs and spices to customise them! You could just buy good Lincolnshire sausages and remove the skins to make these but I like to add a big hit of extra sage. The only tricky bit is covering the eggs with the sausagemeat: I use the cling film method but whatever works for you is the right way!

* 300g good Lincolnshire sausagemeat * Handful fresh sage, finely chopped or 1 tbsp of dried if you prefer

* Salt and pepper * 4 free range eggs * Seasoned flour * 1 beaten egg * Breadcrumbs * Vegetable oil for frying 1 Finely chop your sage if using fresh and combine with your sausagemeat.

2 Season and leave for 30 minutes in the fridge to allow the flavours to develop. Boil your eggs. I like quite a soft yolk so boil each egg for four minutes before plunging it into iced water, but if you prefer a harder yolk then cook for longer.

3 Set out four saucers of seasoned flour, beaten egg and breadcrumbs.

4 Cut a square of cling film and lightly dust it with flour. Take a handful of sausage meat and place it in the centre, lightly sprinkle it with flour, then cover with another sheet of cling film and, using a rolling pin, roll it out to a size that will easily surround the egg. Remove the top layer of clingfilm.

5 Roll your boiled egg in the seasoned flour then place in the centre of the rolled out sausage meat. Draw up the four corners of cling film so the sausagemeat envelops the egg, then smooth the meat around to fully cover the egg. I tend

Harvest Ketchup

A permanent fixture on Hazel’s table

Making your own Scotch eggs allows you to customise them

to twist the clingfilm so it squashes around the egg, which gives a lovely smooth surface.

6 Roll your sausage-egg in the flour, then the beaten egg and finally the breadcrumbs and deep fry in 170ºC oil for 6-7 minutes before draining on kitchen roll. I usually then put the Scotch egg in a warm oven while the others are being made. Serve with your Harvest Ketchup (below).

I

make huge batches of this ketchup using whatever gluts I have in the garden and it keeps really well in the fridge. I used to turn all my leftover green tomatoes into chutney but this ketchup is a real treat. Mixing green and red veg will result in a dark brown ketchup; if you prefer a red one then just use red fruit and veg, likewise for green. I never worry about the colour though, as long as it tastes wonderful then I am a happy lady!

* Glug of rapeseed oil * 1 onion * 3 cloves garlic * 2 green peppers * Half a head of celery, plus leaves * 4 salad onions * 1 tbsp dried fennel seeds * 1 tbsp coriander seeds * 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger root, peeled and sliced

* 1 green chili * 1 chipotle chili (try Edible Ornamentals –

* 8 large green tomatoes * 1 tsp ground cloves * 1 tsp ground cinnamon * 700ml water * 125ml sherry vinegar (red wine vinegar works really well too)

* 200g light soft brown sugar * Sea salt and pepper * 1 pear * 1 apple

www.edibleornamentals.co.uk)

1 Chop all your fruit and veg. Put everything except the water, vinegar and sugar into a big saucepan and cook gently to soften.

2 Add the water and cook for about 20 minutes. Put everything in a blender, then strain through a fine sieve. I do this a few times – it takes about 20 minutes and your arms get tired but it makes for a really smooth ketchup. Put your strained mix into a saucepan and add the vinegar and sugar before returning to the heat and reducing to a thick ketchupy sauce, which takes 30 minutes. Season and decant into sterilised bottles and keep in the fridge.

Great Food Magazine 19

SEASONAL RECIPES Poached, spiced pears with almond and ginger biscuits, in a chocolate cardamom sauce

W

arming spices, soft, sweet poached pears and a decadent chocolate sauce – what’s not to love? Everything can be made in advance for a stress-free dessert: simply serve it with some fantastic vanilla ice cream and loosen the belt on your trousers – well, winter is coming after all!

* 4 pears * 600g golden caster sugar * 4 star anise * 2 tsp cinnamon or 2 cinnamon sticks

* 1 vanilla pod or 1 tsp

good vanilla extract

* Juice of 1 lemon Chocolate cardamom sauce

* 4 green cardamom pods * 100g dark chocolate (70% cocoa minimum) * 120ml double cream * 1 tbsp golden syrup * 1 tbsp butter * Pinch sea salt flakes

Almond and ginger biscuits (this makes lots of biscuits!)

* 100g soft butter (plus a bit to grease your parchment)

* 100g golden caster sugar * 3 fresh egg whites * 50g ground almonds * 50g type 00 flour * 100g flaked almonds * 3 tsp ground ginger

TASTE TEST: Halen Môn salts

G

ood salt is as essential in a kitchen as a good knife.

Anglesey company Halen Môn harvests its sea salt from the Menai Strait at the end of the lane from its office. The salt flakes are huge! There’s no trace of bitterness to them, in fact they have a subtle sweetness. In addition to regular sea salt, Halen Môn also makes a celery salt for the best Bloody Mary ever, a Tahitian vanilla salt essential for a good salted caramel sauce, a spiced salt I like to sprinkle on my boiled eggs, and then my absolute favourite: smoked salt that really does take food to another level. My kitchen cupboard feels bare without a few pots of Halen Môn.

VERDICT: A kitchen essential.

For the pears and sauce: 1 Put your sugar, star anise, cinnamon and vanilla in a saucepan (if using a vanilla pod, split it lengthways, scoop out the seeds and add everything to the pan, pod included). Add one litre of cold water. Bring to the boil then reduce the heat to a simmer. Peel your pears (leaving the stalk attached), then place in the saucepan, cover and leave to poach for 30-40 minutes. Remove the pears, turn up the heat and reduce the syrup by two thirds.

2 Make the chocolate sauce. Remove the outer green shell from your cardamom pods and using a mortar and pestle, bash the cardamom seeds before putting them in a saucepan with the cream. Heat until it just starts to boil, then remove from the flame and leave to infuse for 30 minutes before straining to remove the seeds.

3 Melt your chocolate, butter and golden syrup in a glass bowl set over a pan of simmering water, then whisk in your cardamom-infused cream. Keep whisking until the mixture is smooth and glossy (a few flakes of dried red chilli is nice if you want to add a bit more heat)

A delicious pudding perfect for harvest time

For the biscuits: 1 Preheat your oven to Gas Mark 3 (170ºC). Cream together the butter and sugar, then gradually beat in your egg white until you have a light, airy mix.

2 Sift in your flour, ground almonds and mixed spice and combine well before stirring in about threequarters of your flaked almonds.

3 Cover a baking tray with baking parchment and lightly grease it with butter. Place about one tablespoon of the mix onto your parchment and spread it out using a spatula so it’s nice and thin.

Make sure you leave plenty of room between each biscuit. Bake for three minutes, then remove from the oven and scatter over the flaked almonds you

Bonfire Daiquiri

had kept aside. Pop them back into the oven and cook for another four to five minutes or until they have turned golden brown. Remove the tray from the oven and allow the biscuits to cool and start to harden for a couple of minutes before transferring to a cooling rack.

To assemble: 1 Simply pour your chocolate sauce onto a plate, place a poached pear on top, drizzle with some syrup and serve with the almond biscuit, a couple of crispy fried sage leaves and a big dollop of good vanilla ice cream.

R

emember my Wyldelight cheesecake from March that used a smoked tea rum? I said you could use the leftover smoky rum for amazing cocktails and this is my favourite. If you have a juicer then make your own apple juice, but a good shop-bought cloudy juice will still be fantastic.

Add more maple syrup if you like a sweeter tipple.

* 35ml smoked tea rum * Juice of half a lime

* 2 tsp maple syrup * Cloudy apple juice

To make the smoked tea rum:

* 250ml golden rum * 12 strands good quality Lapsang Souchong tea

(St Martin’s Coffee in Leicester sells a wonderful one)

1 Simply pop the strands into the rum and leave to infuse for a minimum of two days. The smokiness will become more intense over time and the rum will become darker.

2 Just put everything into a cocktail shaker with plenty of ice (or clean jam jar with lid), shake and strain into an ice-filled tumbler. I like to drizzle a bit more maple syrup over the top of the drink and garnish with thinly sliced apple.

Get in touch with Hazel: email – hazelpaterson@me.com; Twitter – @HazelPaterson; online – www.itsnotfingrocketscience.com

20 00 Great GreatFood FoodMagazine Magazine

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AT THE HAMMER & PINCERS RESTAURANT, WYMESWOLD, WE PRIDE OURSELVES IN SOURCING THE FINEST LOCAL INGREDIENTS, AND MAKE EVERYTHING SERVED IN HOUSE.

A La Carte Sample Menu Starters (£5.95-£9.50)

Mains (£13.50-£26.00)

Desserts (£6.50-£10.95)

Seared Scallops, Sweetcorn Puree, Confit Chicken Wings, Spiced Caramel Popcorn, Chicken Juice Foam

Steak – all steaks are cut to order from 28 day aged locally sourced beef, and garnished with hand cut triple cooked chips and your choice of sauce

Chocolate Tart, Hazelnut Craquant, Caramel & Sea Salt Ice Cream, Coffee Foam

Scottish Langoustines, Compressed Watermelon, Peanuts, Maple & Lime Dressing, Fresh Mint & Basil Salad Pan Roast Quail Breast & Sticky Braised Lollipop Leg, Bulgur Wheat, Fresh Apricot & Parsley Salad Twice Baked Sparkenhoe Red Leicester & Sun-blushed Tomato Soufflé, Five Onion Salad Tamworth Noise to Toe Terrine, Home Made Piccalilli, Black Treacle & Guinness Bread Olive Oil Potato Gnocchi, Spicy Chorizo & Shellfish Puttanesca Butternut Squash Risotto, Bosworth Ash Goats Cheese, Crispy Sage Leaves, Malt Loaf Crisps Seasonal Soup of the Day, Appropriate Garnish, Freshly Baked Bread & Homemade Butter

Pan Roast Blackberry Farm Beef Fillet, Truffled Potato, Porcini & Parma Ham Terrine, Spinach, Black Olive Caramel Roast Tamworth Pork Loin, Belly Pork Pastrami, Crispy Polenta, Piperade & Textures of Fig Pan Roast Cornish Day Boat Hake, Olive Oil Potato Gnocchi, Spicy Chorizo & Shellfish Puttanesca, Confit Tomatoes Tart Fine of Artichoke Hearts, Brillat Savarin Triple-Crème Brie, Lincolnshire New Potatoes, Summer Vegetables Butternut Squash Risotto, Bosworth Ash Goats Cheese, Crispy Sage Leaves, Micro Rocket, Malt Loaf Crisps Market Meat with Seasonal Garnish Day Boat Fish with Seasonal Garnish

Strawberries in Homemade Elderflower Wine Jelly, Vanilla Genoise, Shortbread & Chantilly Sugar Crusted Lemon Curd Tartlet, Strawberry Compote, Strawberry & Basil Sorbet Baked Passion Fruit Soufflé, Coconut Rum Sorbet & Mango Coulis (please allow 15 minutes) A Selection of the above Desserts for two or more to share A Selection of Home Made Ice Creams & Sorbets (Three Scoops) A Selection of Artisan Cheeses with Accompaniments THIS MENU IS AVAILABLE TUES - SAT, ALL EVENING.

“Wow I thought, you couldn’t ask for more from your food...the fillet of ‘home-killed, 28-day-matured, locally reared’ beef was stunningly good...the lemon grass sorbet was un-be-lievable.” – Giles Coren, The Times

VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR MORE DETAILS, TASTING MENUS AND MORE...

The Hammer & Pincers 5 East Road, Wymeswold, Loughborough LE12 6ST

t: 01509 880735 w: www.hammerandpincers.co.uk

LOCAL PRODUCER

Return of the king Stichelton, made in north Nottinghamshire, is arguably the true heir to the English cheese throne ARTICLE: MATT WRIGHT PHOTOS: STICHELTON

S

tilton – king of English cheeses. Or is it? Arguably, Stichelton, a blue cheese very similar to Stilton, made on a small farm on the Welbeck estate in north Nottinghamshire, is the true king in exile. Why? Because, quite simply, Stichelton is made with raw milk, while today’s Stilton is made with pasteurised milk.

But for over 200 years, the milk used to make Stilton was straight out of the udder, as raw as steak tartare. In 1989, Nottinghamshire’s Colston Bassett Dairy became the last Stilton maker to switch to pasteurised due to health concerns about raw milk and listeria. Six years later, Stilton’s Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) certificate was changed after a campaign by the Stilton Cheesemakers’ Association to state that Stilton must be made with pasteurised milk. This was bad news for purists, who believe that Stilton made with pasteurised milk is not only lacking authenticity, but is also less tasty. They say raw-milk blue cheese offers greater complexity of taste because pasteurisation kills bacteria, enzymes and proteins that contribute flavours.

Enter Stichelton

American accent: “Randolph asked, ‘You wanna do this raw-milk Stilton project?’ I said, ‘Yeah, great idea,’ and got another beer. But the idea sunk in – he’d planted it. Later on I thought, wow, could I really do that? It’s like the Holy Grail of cheesemaking, to bring back the quintessential English cheese and make it with raw milk on a small working farm.”

Schneider “grew up on Kraft singles and Parmesan in green cans” in his native America, before moving to Holland in 1995 after he and his wife decided to experience life outside the US. “I got a job making feta for a Turk in Eindhoven. What I loved, and what I still love about cheesemaking, is the fact it’s a mix of hard science and a more nebulous kind of alchemy – something magical you can’t pin down. That mix fits my personality.”

They like it raw Joe Schneider

22 Great Food Magazine

Schneider started looking at the magical ripening process, what happens when cheese is left on the shelf in the right conditions. He called various British dairies in a bid to learn more and soon discovered the Specialist Cheesemakers’ Association (SCA). This led to a move to the UK in 1998 and a job on a biodynamic farm in Sussex, making a Cheddartype cheese, plus creams and yoghurts. “At that time, Brits were hands down the best makers of artisan farmhouse cheese in the world.

Traditional cheesemaking was almost completely lost in the UK in the 1950s, ‘60s and ‘70s when the Milk Marketing Board decimated the industry. But in the late ‘80s when the authorities mooted the idea of banning rawmilk cheesemaking, the SCA was formed to tackle the threat. Lots of people worked really hard and the result was a renaissance in farmhouse cheesemaking.”

Next stop for Schneider was Daylesford Organic Farm in the Cotswolds, working for Sir Anthony and Lady Bamford (also behind multinational construction giant JCB – formerly known as JC Bamford). There he was heavily involved in building Daylesford Creamery in 2001 and made Daylesford Cheddar, Penyston and Single and Double Gloucester, among others. “I was at Daylesford for five years. There’s a

(left) and Randolph Hodgson passionately believe that producing Stilton cheese with raw milk should be made legal again.

Stichelton was created in 2006 in response to Stilton’s mandatory pasteurisation rule. “We are not allowed to say our cheese is made to a Stilton recipe,” says head Stichelton maker Joe Schneider. “But if you were to visit Colston Bassett Dairy and watch how they make cheese, and then watch us make cheese, I suspect you’d see little difference. Our recipe is also very similar – but only coincidentally – to the older Stilton recipes in some of the cheesemaking books floating around. Our aim was to make a raw-milk Stilton but we were refused permission by the Stilton Cheesemakers’ Association.” As a result, Schneider makes raw-milk Stichelton.

Like many good ideas, the seeds of Stichelton were sown in a pub. One evening in 2004, Schneider was in The Wheatsheaf at Borough Market, London, having a beer with Randolph Hodgson, chairman of influential farmhouse cheese wholesaler Neal’s Yard Dairy. Schneider recalls the evening, speaking in his soft

Learning his trade

Stichelton Dairy

â&#x20AC;&#x153; To me, bringing back the quintessential raw-milk English cheese is the Holy Grail of cheesemakingâ&#x20AC;?

Stichelton is ripened on spruce wood for 12 weeks and eaten at 14-25 weeks old, depending on customer preference

Great Food Magazine 23

LOCAL PRODUCER

Joe Schneider tips loose curd into hoops

great entrepreneurial spirit there and I learnt so much about artisan food making in general.”

But at Daylesford Schneider was an employee and he wanted to do his own thing. So the conversation with Randolph Hodgson in The Wheatsheaf at Borough Market came at the right time.

Doing it yourself

Stilton v Stichelton “When we started making Stichelton we were

very open with Stilton Cheesemakers’ Association and wanted to win hearts and minds, but we also wanted to change the rules,” says Schneider. “We take issue with the part of Stilton’s PDO certificate that was altered to make pasteurisation mandatory. PDOs exist to protect a food’s heritage, nothing else. Because of that we’ve applied to the EU to have that specific aspect of Stilton’s PDO changed.”

In the years preceding Schneider and Hodgson’s pub chat, Hodgson, who has sold farmhouse cheeses with Neal’s Yard for 30 years, had longed for the return of raw-milk Stilton. “He thought it was the best cheese in the world,” says Schneider.

“In his opinion, Stilton made with pasteurised milk is a bit

problem – he didn’t have the £3 million or so needed to set up a new farmhouse dairy from scratch. He’d found the perfect cheesemaker in Schneider, but now the two of them needed a dairy farm, a dairy, and some capital.

“Fortune intervened and we found Welbeck through the Academy of Ancient Music,” says Schneider, with a grin. “We

lacklustre in comparison. He asked Colston Bassett to start making it with raw milk again but to no avail.”

Hodgson realised that if raw-milk Stilton were ever to return, he’d have to make it himself, but there was one small

employed a woman to find a suitable farm who had just finished working as PA to the director of the Academy. She had a friend who built harpsichords and happened to be working at Welbeck. He knew there was a dairy farm there.”

“It was difficult to get the recipe right and even harder to control expectations” DID YOU KNOW....

What’s in a name?

“When we were told we couldn’t use the name Stilton, we thought long and hard,” says Schneider. “Then one of Randolph’s customers who belongs to the English PlaceName Society told us the village of Stilton used to be called Stichelton in Saxon English.” It was the perfect solution.

24 Great Food Magazine

Welbeck is the place

Welbeck had the cows, the organic certification (important for Schneider), a barn ripe for conversion, and some capital.

“We also liked the way they were farming and they understood what we were trying to achieve,” says Schneider.

The building at Welbeck where Stichelton is made was converted from barn to dairy over six months to a very high standard. Its ancient stone walls hide state of the art kit.

From the window you can see the herd of Friesian-Holsteins that supply the milk. The cows are milked at the other end of the barn and milk is pumped straight into a 2700-litre vat.

“We faced huge challenges in the beginning,” says Schneider. “It was difficult to get the recipe right and harder to control expectations. People expected instant success but it was always going to take time. In the third year we hit our stride after making slow, attritional improvements, as well as enjoying a few lightbulb moments.”

Today, Stichelton is available to buy from Neal’s Yard Dairy in London, Welbeck Farm Shop and Delilah Fine Foods in Nottingham. But is it the real king, better than Stilton? You’ll have to try them both and decide for yourself. Q

CONTACT Stichelton Dairy, Collingthwaite Farm, Cuckney, Mansfield, Notts NG20 9NP, 01623 844883, www.stichelton.co.uk

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Dine with us at The Exeter Arms Head Chef Simon Pollendine has created a number of menus for you to enjoy whatever the occasion.

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Simonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature dishes are designed using local and seasonal produce.

Home Comforts are available Monday to Saturday lunch and Monday to Thursday dinner offering old favourites such as Pie of the day and Yeast battered haddock and double fried chips. A pizza menu is available seven days a week.

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A lunch and early evening menu is available Monday to Friday 12 noon to 2.30pm and from 6.00pm to 6.50pm. Two courses for ÂŁ14.95 and three courses for ÂŁ19.95.

Sunday lunch is served from 12 noon to 6.00pm offering a range of dishes along with that all important roast!

To make a booking call 01780 756321 The Exeter Arms is also ideal for celebrations, christenings, weddings and anniversaries To make a reservation please call 01780 756321. For more information and to see a range of sample menus please visit www.theexeterarms.net

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The Melton Cheeseboard W

e would like to welcome you to our shop in the heart of Melton Mowbray.

Our aim is to bring you the finest cheese and dairy produce, much of it sourced in Leicestershire and surrounding counties; as well as the best from the UK, and a growing variety of continental cheeses.

Our cheeses from the local Stilton is our speciality, ours area include the complete is sourced directly from Long Long Clawson range including Clawson Dairy, based just five their award-winning miles outside Melton Mowbray.

Aged Leicester, Lincolnshire Poacher, Cote Hill Blue, Sparkenhoe F )PS B UBTUF PG UI F Leicester, Bosworth UI PN GS TF FF DI TU CF Z OPU Field and 0FMUPO BSFB XI T" U V JTJ E W Battlefield Blue.

BO NF DP 8 Windsor Street Melton Mowbray Leicestershire LE13 1BU Tel/Fax 01664 562257

Opening Hours Mon 9.00 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3.00 0 0 Tues 8.30 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5.00 0 Wed & Thurs 9.00 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4.00 Fri & Sat 8.30 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4.00 0

www.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk d k

Full Asparagus Menu available soon.

Sweetbreads to Quails Eggs, Wing Ham to Smoked Rutland Trout.

Light Bites and Main Courses.

Prices from ÂŁ5.50

â&#x20AC;˘ 2 AA Rosettes since 2009 â&#x20AC;˘ Which Good Food Guide â&#x20AC;˘ AA Breakfast Award â&#x20AC;˘ Members of Slow food Rutland & Leicestershire â&#x20AC;˘ Good Pub Guide 1.5 miles from Manton & Rutland Water Bike Circuit Large Car Park (40) suitable for larger vehicles and trailers Rooms: 8 comfortable en-suite letting rooms, free wi-fi throughout, flat screen televisions Prices start from: ÂŁ80 Double, ÂŁ90 Twin, ÂŁ65 Single Room.

Check website for current offers and special deals.

Follow us on

RECIPES

Tan Rosie’s

Monica Cudjoe (left) and Lee Sylvester

CARIBBEAN CLASSICS B

irmingham-based mother and daughter team Tan Rosie makes chilli sauces, jerk seasoning and Caribbean fudge inspired by old Grenadian family recipes. Monica Cudjoe and Lee Sylvester sell their products online and at markets around the Midlands. Just over a year ago, they launched a supper club showcasing Caribbean cooking, which has proved popular. They’ve also created a cook book (see below), from which these recipes are taken.

Rice & Peas Chicken Pelau

A traditional dish from Grenada, with Tan Rosie’s own twist.

It’s been enjoyed by Monica and Lee’s family for many years.

Serves 4

* 250g easy-cook rice * 40g Tan Rosie jerk rub * 250g pigeon peas (or tinned variety),

1 Massage jerk rub into chicken and leave overnight in fridge.

2 Brown chicken in hot oil. soaked overnight 3 Add bacon (or salt pork/beef) and * 4 chicken thighs, skinned onions, and cook for five minutes. * 1 medium onion, minced 4 Add coconut milk, peas, thyme, * 2 garlic cloves, diced water, chilli and stock and bring to boil, ô tin coconut milk * then simmer on low heat for 15 mins. * 100g smoked bacon or salt pork/beef 5 Add rice and 1 scotch bonnet * Top tips stir, bring to the chilli pepper Make sure you remove boil, add lid and * Black pepper to taste the scotch bonnet simmer for 15 2 tsp fresh thyme * before serving! If mins on low heat. * 2 tsp vegetable stock using dried peas, soak Finally, serve with 500ml water * overnight and cook to a fresh salad. * Salad leaves for serving

{ } tender for 40 minutes

Pumpkin Pie

This is one of Tan Rosie’s Supper Club favourites, and goes beautifully with cream or custard.

Serves 8

Sweet pumpkin pie – a great autumn pudding

The Tan Rosie cook book

Tan Rosie’s new Caribbean Supper Club Recipe Book looks at the history of Caribbean food and contains simple, original family recipes. You can buy it from Amazon for £8.99 or as an eBook – find out more at www.caribbeanrecipebook.com 26 Great Food Magazine

* 1 pumpkin * 2 whole eggs and 1 egg yolk, beaten * 226g light soft brown sugar * 1 tbsp plain flour * ô tsp salt * 1 ô tsp ground cinnamon * 1 tsp ground ginger * ô tsp ground nutmeg * ô tsp ground allspice * 1 tsp vanilla extract * 340ml evaporated milk * Ready-made pastry, cut to 23cm diameter

1 Cut pumpkin in half, remove seeds.

2 In baking tray lined with greaseproof paper, place pumpkin, cut side down.

3 Bake for 40 to 50 minutes on Gas Mark 6 (200°C) or until flesh of pumpkin is tender.

4 Remove from oven and cool.

5 Scoop out flesh from peel, discarding the skin.

6 Mash flesh, using a blender or potato ricer.

7 Measure out 500g of pureed pumpkin flesh.

8 Set oven to Gas Mark 8 (230°C).

9 Line pie dish with pastry.

10 In mixing bowl, place all the ingredients. Stir well until all are blended together – a food processor can be used if you want.

11 Pour mixture into pastry-lined dish.

12 Bake in oven for 10 minutes.

13 Reduce oven temperature to Gas Mark 5 (190°C) and bake for a further 50 minutes or until a skewer can be inserted and removed cleanly.

14 Leave to cool.

15 Serve with whipped cream or some good custard.

CONTACT Tan Rosie, PO Box 15865, Birmingham B23 3JB, 07939 384510, www.tanrosie.com

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You’ll be able to look forward to a unique, beautiful, information-packed magazine that focuses on food and drink in the Heart of England.

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Great Food Magazine 27

OUT & ABOUT

LEFT: Delights on the Patisserie Lola stand RIGHT: Grandpa Lew’s display – Lew is a Derbyshire producer and food seller who makes great pies

Derbyshire Food and D Thousands flock to Hardwick Hall STIVAL F FE

•

28 Great Food Magazine

Event report

LEFT: Kyle Martin mans the Grandpa Lew’s stand

•

ABOVE: Hardwick Hall.

BELOW LEFT: Lisa Wilson and Carrie Warr from Derbyshire’s Taste Tideswell project.

BELOW RIGHT: Tim Dobson from Cheshire’s Chestnut Meats

S • FEST CU O

FOCUS AL IV

T

he stunning edifice of Hardwick Hall near Chesterfield, standing proudly against blue skies, provided the backdrop for the Derbyshire Food and Drink Festival on May 26-27. Around 13,500 food lovers turned out over the weekend and it was the drinks and ice cream sellers whose cash tills rang the loudest as the sun made a rare early summer appearance. TV chef Simon Rimmer provided the celebrity draw in the packed chefs’ demo tent, but the real stars of the show were the 200 or so exhibitors, especially the local producers, including Thornbridge Brewery, Jaquest Smokery and Grandpa Lew’s. Great Food was there with a camera...

ABOVE: Richard Noble and Anita Spencer on the Thornbridge Brewery (Bakewell) stand.

BELOW: Patisserie Lola’s Sara Davies (right) and Susan Pirie from Chesterfield

ABOVE: Thornbridge beers BELOW: Olivia Forshaw and Jamie Cowle from Mettrick’s Butchers, which has outlets in Glossop and Hadfield

d Drink Festival LEFT: The festival provided one of Gourmet Spice’s best ever weekends of trading. Here Mark Hughes serves customers.

RIGHT & FAR RIGHT: Septimus Spyder of Burton on Trent.

Septimus Spyder describes itself as a ’Medieval Brewhouse’

LEFT: The Jaquest Smokehouse (Bolsover) stand. From left: Alexis Malong, John Jaquest, Marilyn Edinboro, Joanne Malong and Pauline Jaquest

BELOW: Brother and sister John and Emily Maycock from Maycock’s Butchers of Holloway near Matlock

Great Food Magazine 00 29

READER’S RECIPE

Reader’s recipe

Ciambotta from Carmela’s Kitchen Carmela Serano Hayes is an Italian who lives in Northampton. As well as being a busy mum with four children, she writes a food blog called Carmela’s Kitchen, appears regularly on BBC Radio Northampton’s Sunday morning Kitchen Garden show, and teaches cookery classes at Bay Tree Cottage in south Northamptonshire.

Carmela says: “With autumn imminent I wanted to share this warming one-pot recipe. For this meal you need fresh bread, and lots of it.

The bread will be used for dipping and scraping the bowl, which will be laced with a rich, velvety tomato sauce, meltin-the-mouth pork and soft potatoes.”

If you would like to share a recipe in Great Food Magazine, email editorial@greatfoodmag.co.uk

“Ciambotta is best served in bowls with fresh bread and a glass of wine on the side – the perfect autumnal family dinner” Serves 4

* 1 medium onion, sliced * 1 medium yellow pepper, sliced * 1 small courgette, cut into large cubes * 2-3 cloves of garlic, crushed * 10 mushrooms, halved * 400g diced pork (large chunks) * 1 heaped tsp dried oregano * 1 large handful basil, torn with your fingers

* Salt and pepper to season * 1 small chilli, chopped, seeds and all * 3 tins crushed tomatoes * 6 small potatoes, peeled and halved You can use fresh or tinned tomatoes for this dish

1 Slice the onion and fry until lightly coloured. Then add the crushed garlic and stir, followed by the diced pork. Stir well and lightly colour the pork.

2 In a separate bowl, tip in the three tins of crushed tomatoes, salt and pepper, oregano, chopped Carmela’s tip basil, and chilli. Mix 5 The Ciambotta If the children ingredients together should be bubbling are eating this too then go steady with thoroughly. away nice and slowly. the chilli – you 3 When the pork has After an hour, taste don’t want to blow browned, pour in the and add more their little socks off! tomato mix and stir. seasoning if required.

4 Now tumble in the 6 Now add the potato halves and mushrooms. Cook pepper slices and courgettes. slowly on a low heat for about an hour.

7 Cook slowly for a further 30-40 minutes on a low heat. When the sauce has thickened and the courgette and pepper have softened, serve up in bowls and enjoy. Accompany with plenty of fresh bread.

{ }

Buon Appetito!

CONTACT

For more of Carmela’s recipes, go to www.carmelaskitchen.blogspot.com

30 Great Food Magazine

Courgettes are in season in the UK from June until early October

Farm shop favourites

Georgieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s selections...

Georgie Mason founded and runs award-winning Gonalston Farm Shop.

She selects four favourite products from her shelves

Artisan bread from Hambleton Bakery Long fermentations and organic stoneground flour underpin the flavour of Hambleton breads, which are handmade in Rutland. The Seven Cereal Loaf is a combination of soaked cereals and malt with flour ground at a French water mill. The dough is made over six hours, which leads to soft, wholesome brown bread.

Cartmel Sticky Toffee Pudding

Lincolnshire Poacher

Judging by the numbers we sell, this finishes off many a dinner round here. I used to think buying puddings was weird before I tried this. Now I wonder why youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d make pudding. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long-life and suitable for home freezing, making it a great standby.

We have a great relationship with the Jones family from the Lincolnshire Wolds. Their dairy farm began in 1970 under Richard Jones. His son Simon looked into the possibility of making cheese and a small dairy was set up. The first batch was made on February 12, 1992 and Lincolnshire Poacher was born. The cheese has won dozens of awards and is one of our best sellers, 52 weeks of the year.

42-day aged sirloin of Gonalston Farm beef This meat comes from our farmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very own continental-cross heifers, reared on Trent valley pastures. Slow ageing on the bone matures the beef to an exquisite tenderness and flavour. There is a limited supply, making this a very special treat.

Customers pre-order and keep coming back for more.

!" " " ! !" " Notts

" 7DR, www.gonalstonfarmshop.co.uk, 0115 9665666 CONTACT Gonalston Farm Shop, Southwell Road, Gonalston, NG14

k boor k o E o FRErhot C cooke y e Ev ever h witThaymar Real Luxury Dairy Ice Cream and Real Fruit Sorbets

have been made at Haughton Park Farm since 1988.

Thelma and Martin Cheetham found that due to the introduction of milk quotas they were producing too much milk. So with Thelmaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passion for good home produced food and Martins diversification idea, Thaymar Real Dairy Ice Cream was born. Over 35 delicious hand made flavours of ice cream and sorbets are now made on the farm.

Using fresh milk and double cream, straight from the neighbouring dairy, we add quality local fruit and natural fruit flavours, to name but a few of our finest ingredients. This culminates in an unforgettable ice cream experience.

Farm and Tea Shop open 7 days 10.00a.m. - 5.30p.m.

Haughton Park Farm, Nr Bothamsall, Retford, Notts DN22 Haught 22 8DB Tel: 01623 858887 www.thaymaricecream.co.uk

Everhot Range Cookers at The Kitchen White,Real Red and Rose winesCompany made from grapes organically grown at South Kilworth.

Imagine a heat storage range cooker that: â&#x20AC;˘ has traditional styling and good looks DISCOUNTS ONLY â&#x20AC;˘ is manufactured in the UK AVAILABLE FROM FARM SHOP DURING â&#x20AC;˘ plugs into a 13 amp socket ENGLISH WINE WEEK â&#x20AC;˘ needs no flue or concrete base â&#x20AC;˘ is available in a choice of sizes Ideal present - specially for those who do not and features think that grapes can be grown in â&#x20AC;˘ gives cooking control and versatility Leicestershire! â&#x20AC;˘ averages less than half the running Available from our farm shop, together with costs of most other traditional ranges

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LOCAL PRODUCER

Guilsborough gold Great Food visits Nobby’s Brewery in rural Northamptonshire…

I

n back rooms, sheds, cellars and workshops, hundreds of small-scale food and drink producers are putting in the hours. Every day they follow their dream of profitably making delicious morsels and delightful vats of liquid to sell on market stalls and in delis, farm shops and supermarkets.

Nobby’s Brewery, which has been brewing successfully since 2004, is one such producer. Located in the sleepy Northamptonshire village of Guilsborough, opposite a beautiful Jacobean ex-grammar school, the 12-barrel microbrewery mashes 10,000 pints of award-winning real ale a week. Like many small producers, you wouldn’t know Nobby’s Brewery was there unless someone pointed it out. Founder Paul Mulliner (Nobby) and head brewer Ben Bulcock work in the courtyard of the Ward Arms pub, behind large wooden doors.

of the Year Guilsborough Gold have just been listed by The Co-op to be sold nationwide.

Winning approval from the supermarket is big news for Nobby’s team, and they are going to be brewing at capacity to achieve the volume The Co-op requires. “We’re all ready for the first delivery but we’re not quite sure how it’s going to go,” says Paul. “To say we’re a little nervous is an understatement.”

From garage to brewery Guilsborough was the home of two women hanged for witchcraft in 1612 – the result of the infamous Northampton Witch Trials – but today there are no witch’s brews made in the village, only superb beers. Nobby’s SIBA Gold-winning Guilsborough Guzzler and CAMRA Northants Beer

Founder Paul ‘Nobby’ Mulliner (left) and head brewer Ben Bulcock

Paul, or Nobby as he’s widely known (“unless I’m in trouble,” he laughs), comes from Barnsley and used to work for a medical firm. He moved to Kettering in 2000 when his office relocated. “I’ve been a home brewer since I was 17,” he says. “Our new house in Kettering had a garage but we couldn’t get the car in, so I set up a home brewery there. I had no

JOIN THE CLUB – P68 Love local food and drink? Join Great Food Club – free – and get a membership card that allows you to eat the best for less

SEVEN BROWN BOTTLES... Six core beers are produced all year round by the Guilsborough brewery, which also brews a range of seasonal ales

32 Great Food Magazine

Brewing

Claire Brown from Kingsthorpe washes Nobby’s barrels

MADE IN NORTHAMPTONSHIRE Nobby’s is a member of the Made in Northamptonshire Group and a proud supporter of the Made in Northamptonshire kite mark (pictured below). The mark was launched by the county’s food group in January 2012 to highlight local food products. For more information about the mark, email rachel@ rachelmallows.com.

The Ward Arms, home of Nobby’s Brewery Ben in the steamy brewhouse

intention of supplying pubs but after 18 months of messing around and internet research, I’d made some good brews.” At this point his local, The Alexander Arms in Kettering, installed several new handpumps and Nobby took a few bottles in to the landlord. “I didn’t know it, but he was letting customers try my beer. After a while he said he’d like to sell a barrel.

That’s when I discovered all the legalities and tax implications.”

It took Nobby a further 18 months to get permission from the authorities to brew beer in his garage.

Eventually, he got the green light but soon cut a deal with The Alexander Arms and converted the pub’s rear cellar into his brewery. Nobby outgrew that five years later and came to The Ward Arms at Guilsborough as landlord and brewer in 2007. Last February he sold the pub to two female chefs and now rents the space for his brewery from them.

Like Nobby, head brewer Ben Bulcock also hails from the north – Burnley. Ben was in the leather industry in Lancashire but got a job at Potbelly Brewery in Kettering, before joining Nobby’s team.

The beers There’s no Yorkshire versus Lancashire rivalry between Paul and Ben, but they do clash over beer styles. “I like to taste the hops, but Ben enjoys malty milds,” says Nobby. “It’s good for getting a balance.”

And it’s a creative tension that’s working well. Nobby’s Brewery has a portfolio of 30 recipes, with six

constantly available core beers.

Around 30 local pubs permanently offer Nobby’s beers, including The Cock at Roade (“a village pub that takes 54 gallons a week”), community pub The Malt Shovel in Northampton, and new ‘medieval’ pub Olde England, also in Northampton.

double award winning mild. But perhaps the best tale surrounds Nobby’s Tressler’s XXX.

The tale of Tressler

“Septimus Tressler was the last drayman at Elworthy’s Brewery, Kettering, before it shut in 1956,” says Nobby. “We produce Tressler’s XXX in Strategy and science his honour and were looking for an “We’ve tried to emulate bigger image to illustrate the pump clip. A brewers, building a nucleus of pubs local historian came across a photo near our brewery, which has been showing a steam dray, Septimus successful,” says Nobby. “But you himself and a little boy. We got have to be consistent. When you get a permission to use the photo and the bunch of chappies going in for a pump clip went up at The Star Inn, pint of Nobby’s every night, if the Geddington. Soon after, a chap beer doesn’t taste right once came into the pub and demanded your reputation slips; the second to know why a picture of his time, your reputation has gone.” grandfather and great “We apply a lot of science to grandfather were on the clip. He achieve consistency,” says Ben. understood after we explained “We record everything and use but was shocked because – and every bit of kit possible to this is the spooky thing – it match each brew with the turned out the little boy in last one and the one before the photo [the man’s that.” The pair take the grandfather] had passed Did you science of brewing away at the same time we know... seriously and are about to first started putting the Stainless steel attend a quality control XXX into barrels.” beer barrels cost course at the University of So with a pinch of just under £100 Nottingham’s new brewing science, a sprinkling of each. Nobby’s Brewery owns sciences department. history, a dollop of 650. “Casks are But it’s not all science. northern humour, and a lot like brewers’ There are some fantastic of hard work, Nobby’s wives,” says stories behind many of Brewery goes from Nobby. “It’s Nobby’s beers. strength to strength unacceptable to Guilsborough Guzzler was behind large wooden doors borrow them and give them back created after a group of in idyllic Guilsborough. when you’re locals who didn’t like hoppy Next time you see one of finished.” beers were asked to design their beers, give it a try. their own. The result was a You won’t regret it. Q

CONTACT Nobby’s Brewery, c/o The Ward Arms, Guilsborough, Northants NN6 8PY, 01604 740785, nobbysbrewery.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 33

LOCAL PRODUCER

The sausage maker Northamptonshire’s Duncan Brown has exchanged stage for artisan sausages WORDS & PICTURES: MATT WRIGHT

T

wenty-seven-year-old Duncan Brown tips minced British pork into a metal dish. He adds chunks of banana soaked in lime juice, finely chopped red chilli, onion, a range of herbs and spices, and some sesame seeds. We’re standing in his tiny sausage-making room – a converted coal shed – on his father’s ex-farm near Wollaston, Northamptonshire.

Banana might strike you as an odd ingredient, but Duncan isn’t your average sausage-maker. Having founded Brown’s Gourmet Sausages almost two years ago, he has come up with over 50 unique recipes, from his take on traditional Lincolnshire, to ‘Turning Japanese’ – pork, smoked salmon, wasabi and pickled ginger.

Half his recipes are gluten free.

Not long ago, Duncan, who lives in Northampton, was treading the boards in London, doing dance and physical theatre as part of a drama degree. He toured a bit last year but has stopped acting for the time being to focus on his new business. So how did theatre lead to sausages?

“I tried the acting thing but didn’t want to end up a barman. So after completing my degree I started saving up to go on a teaching course, but got fed up of jumping through hoops, so

bought some sausage-making kit. I’ve always loved food – I grew up surrounded by it on the farm – so I got a job with Ron Etheridge of Villager’s Fine Sausages, Beckenham High Street. The fact my father was a pig farmer got me the job.”

Duncan’s father used to farm pigs but ironically gave up just as Duncan started making sausages. He now rents out his old farm buildings.

The founder of Brown’s Gourmet Sausages has seen first hand how challenging the food business can be, but his hard work is paying off. “The first year was tough but things are going well,” he says. “I’m about to expand my storage and production facilities and will be looking to employ someone soon. One thing that’s been great is working with The Sausage and Cider Festival Company,

Duncan Brown with his giant Bananarama sausages

“He has come up with 50 recipes, from his take on traditional Lincolnshire to ‘ Turning Japanese’.”

which puts on events at local rugby clubs. I take along 20 different types of sausage and customers choose which they want with their cider.”

Duncan also sells his wares online and at Northampton, Huntingdon,

Duncan’s recipes

“The recipes start in my head and then I experiment to get them right,” says Duncan. “Banarama is based on a curry my mother served me as a child with banana marinated in lime juice.” Other Brown’s Gourmet Sausage creations use local honey from Earls Barton and beer from Kettering’s Potbelly Brewery.

and Wolverhampton markets.

As I say goodbye to Duncan, he hands me a string of Bananarama bangers –they’re huge, the most substantial sausages I’ve ever seen.

He explains that he uses shoulder meat – which is worked hard by the animal – alongside pork belly, which is naturally fatty and full of flavour.

The aim is for the leanness and fattiness to complement each other.

At home later that evening I fire up the grill, slightly worried by the banana. But my fears prove unfounded – the fruit provides a subtle undertone and contributes to a genuinely delicious sausage. I can’t wait to try the other 49 varieties. Q CONTACT

In his making room – a converted coal shed – Duncan makes over 50 varieties of sausage, which he sells online and at farmers’ markets. He uses British pork and natural casings

34 Great Food Magazine

www.brownsgourmet.co.uk www.facebook.com/BrownsGourmetSausages

Recipe

Reader’s recipe

Penny Smith’s Provençal Pizza Penny Smith from Leicester is part of the Virtuous Bread network (www.virtuousbread.com) – a group of dough kneaders who teach baking and train people how to set up home bread businesses. She recently

attended a week’s baking course at the School of Artisan Food at Welbeck, Nottinghamshire, where she was taught by Emmanuel Hadjiandreou.

This summer she won two baking awards, including the Big Bake

competition at Melton Country Fair.

This autumn Penny is starting her own baking courses. Contact Penny on 07532 415997, email pennysmith@ magicdoughpenny.co.uk or Tweet to @MagicDoughPenny.

For the pizza topping (make the day before if you can)

* 1 large clove garlic, minced * 1 medium onion, finely chopped * 1 tin chopped tomatoes drained well, or fresh tomatoes roughly chopped and deseeded * 8 large black and green olives, roughly chopped * 200g creamy soft goats’ cheese * Handful fresh marjoram or oregano * Edible flowers or herbs to decorate * 280g jar semi-dried peppers in oil (not brine) * Salt and pepper to taste * Chopped chilli if you fancy some!

1 Drain the tomatoes in a sieve and then empty into a container with a lid.

Crush the garlic and finely chop the onion and add to the tomatoes.

2 Roughly chop the olives and peppers. Add to the mix.

3 Add the flavoured oil from the peppers to the tomato mixture.

4 Season with salt, taking into account that the olives may already be quite salty.

5 Leave this mixture in the fridge overnight for the flavours to develop.

For the dough

* 5g easy-blend dried yeast * 325ml warm water * 225g strong white flour * 225g plain white flour * 10g salt * Glug rapeseed/olive oil

One exquisite pizza – the dough for this recipe is sticky so a bread scraper will be useful 1 Weigh the flour, tip it into a bowl and mix in the salt. dense. If hand-kneading, the dough surface well and then get rolling until 2 Dissolve the yeast in the water will stick to your work surface, so keep the dough is really thin but won’t tear and stir to dissolve with your fingers – scraping it off with a dough scraper. when you move it. it should froth nicely. Then pop the 4 Put the dough into a bowl, allowing 8 Remove the pre-heated (very hot) liquid in with the flour. plenty of room for it to rise, and cover baking tray from the oven and pop 3 Now choose how you want to knead with cling film. Leave it until the dough your dough onto it. It will start to cook your dough. If has doubled in size, straight away, so get cracking with kneading by hand, which takes about your ingredients.

Food Friday Penny’s tip on BBC Radio work the dough an hour.

9 Spoon some of the tomato topping If you have any dough left Leicester for 10 minutes. If 5 Tip it onto your onto the base and bake for about eight over, lightly oil it, pop it The photos for using a bread surface and deflate minutes until the base is crisp and the this recipe were into a greaseproof bag machine, set to it gently with your top bubbling but not burnt. taken during and freeze. You can preparation for the dough cycle. If fingertips and 10 Remove from the oven and defrost it overnight in the Penny’s using a kitchen re-mould into a ball. crumble your creamy goats’ cheese fridge ready for your appearance on mixer, use your 6 When ready to over the bread, sprinkle with some next pizza feast Ben Jackson’s dough hook on a make your pizza, fresh herbs of your choice, grab your Food Friday show, which takes place slow-medium speed for 10 minutes. heat your oven to its highest setting pizza slice and get stuck in with a nice on BBC Radio This is a sticky dough so don’t add and slide in a greaseproof baking tray. glass of red.

Leicester every more flour to make it easier to handle 7 Divide your dough into two or three Friday from 3pm. as this will make the pizza base more to make large pizzas. Flour your work

Enjoy! X

Great Food Magazine 35

OUT AND ABOUT LEFT: Oundle Market Place was busy all day RIGHT: Lucy Cufflin (left) and Lucy Lee-Tirrell of Local Artisan Foods (see p55)

Oundle Food Festival

Sunshine, crowds and lots of happy exhibitors

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undle Food Festival took place on Saturday, July 21 and, unlike last year when it rained all day, the sun put its hat on and partied.

There was a fabulous array of stallholders (including Great Food Magazine and Club), all selling a varied selection of local food and

drink. The atmosphere was wonderful – locals flocked to Oundle’s marketplace – and many stallholders had sold out by noon. In the town hall, a series of events were held, including a lively debate on current issues in the food industry, chaired by BBC presenter Sue MacGregor.

S • FES T CU We said it last year and O we’ll say it again, this compact, intelligently run, varied food festival is one of the very best in the region.

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Events report

ABOVE: George Adams and Ailsa Clarke of Spalding pie maker Adams & Harlow BELOW: English Whisky from Norfolk was just one of the products on sale on the Amps Fine Wines stand

•

ABOVE: Simon Hopper, delivery driver for Boston’s Woodlands Organic Farm BELOW: Becky Andrew, founder of local cake and biscuit producer Cookie Box

The Great Food stand, where we were promoting Great Food Club (see p68)

36 Great Food Magazine

ABOVE: Sausages from Warwickshire’s Italian deli, Squisito LEFT: Phipps’ honey from Cambridgeshire

Out and about Heidi Whiting and Tracy Dickens of cordial maker Belvoir Fruit Farms of Belvoir, near Grantham

ABOVE: Simon Brook from gluten-free specialist Glebe Farm, Kings Ripton, Huntingdon BELOW: Monica Cudjoe (left) and Lee Sylvester of Birmingham Caribbean food specialists Tan Rosie

BBC Summer Good Food Show NEC, Birmingham G

Event report

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reat Food attended the BBC Summer Good Food Show at Birmingham’s NEC, which ran from June 13-17. The price to take a stand at this show was £257 per square metre, so it was a big investment for producers.

However, the show was well attended and lured over 100,000 visitors. We tracked S • FES T CU down some Midlands’ exhibitors…

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Pies from Lime Tree Pantry Foods of Ollerton ABOVE TOP: Curry kits from Leicester’s Spicentice ABOVE: Webster’s Stilton, made in Saxelbye near Melton Mowbray

ABOVE: Helen Ellis (right) and Emily Smiles from Cotgrave-based Gourmet Chocolate Pizza Co. BELOW: Louise Lee from Notts’ Gonalston Farm Shop chats to customers

Woodhouse Farm of Burbage, Leicestershire, had one of the show’s busiest stands, thanks to a wonderful hog roast display

Great Food Magazine 37

OUT AND ABOUT

FARMING & BUTCHERY

From sty to sausage

Nottingham butcher Johnny Pusztai has joined forces with his pork supplier to offer farm and butchery experience days

W

ooden boards laden with honeyed bresaola and prosciutto are passed round the farmhouse table. A roast shoulder of pork sits pride of place in the centre, topped with crackling that promises to crunch, before dissolving into salty velvet. Next to it are meaty sausages made with prime pork, pepper and spices.

We’re in the farmhouse kitchen at Woodside Farm, Wellow, not far from Ollerton in Nottinghamshire. The pork in front of us was raised in the sheds and fields outside, before being slaughtered at Woods Abattoir in Clipston – six miles away – and prepared by Nottingham’s Johnny Pusztai, butcher to Sat Bains, the city’s double Michelin Star chef.

Sheep shearing

ARTICLE & PHOTOS: MATT WRIGHT

It’s Thursday lunchtime and I’ve been invited to attend one of Johnny and Woodside Farm’s joint farm and butchery days. The idea of the day is to showcase both Johnny’s butchery skills and the farm’s ethical agricultural techniques. It’s a way of advertising what they both do, educating and providing enjoyment for guests, and making some money at the same time.

The superb roast lunch divides the day, which starts with feeding the piglets, then takes in some DIY sheep shearing – all the time listening to farmers Andy and his son Richard Baugh – and finishes with a superb hands-on butchery lesson from Johnny. The atmosphere is completely relaxed throughout and the emphasis is on fun with a good amount of learning thrown in.

One of the things you try on the day is sheep shearing. Did you know that most British wool is collected by the Wool Marketing Board, before being graded and auctioned in Bradford? Proceeds are then divided up between all the farmers who supplied the wool.

38 Great Food Magazine

FACTS ABOUT THE DAY The day runs from 8.30am to 4pm and costs £250 plus VAT per person.

For the price you receive lunch, teas and coffees, and go home with over £50-worth of excellent local pork and a hatful of delicious sausages (which you make yourself during Johnny Pusztai’s hands-on butchery session). You also return home with new insights into farming and with some handy butchery skills. The day would make a great gift for a food lover or even work well as a corporate team-building event.

Johnny, who is present WIN A DAY AT throughout the day, is WOODSIDE FARM A Great Food Club one of a select handful member will be picked at of butchers who sells random on Oct 1, 2012, to win pork from Woodside a place on a Woodside Farm Experience Day. Joining Farm. “We’ve been Great Food Club is with Johnny since Sat free – see p68 Bains won BBC2’s Great British Menu in 2007,” says Andy. The Nottingham chef’s winning starter of ham, egg and peas used Johnny’s air-dried ham, and the pork had to be traceable. Because Woodside Farm offers complete traceability, right down to its pig feed, Johnny turned to them. “Our pigs are born a mile away at Ollerton,” explains Richard. “They arrive at eight weeks old and are grown on a straw-based system. We usually sell them at 20 weeks. I think 70% of pork’s eating quality is down to the amount of stress an animal goes through. Our pigs only ever travel 14 miles, so stress is minimal.”

The day at Woodside Farm offers impressive insights into the way our food and farming system should operate. It also gives you the opportunity to try – and make – some truly delicious food. Q

Butchery

The day in pictures...

From pigs to sausages in six simple steps

1

Father and son Andy (left) and Richard Baugh run Woodside Farm. The pair show guests how they run their farm and give them the opportunity to feed the pigs and shear the sheep. They’re on hand to answer any questions.

2

2

1 3

3

After lunch, larger-than-life character Johnny Pusztai runs a hands-on butchery session in which you learn how to prepare various cuts of pork.

4

Sausage making is a big part of the butchery session. This isn’t surprising because Johnny is famous for his bangers – he makes over 70 varieties in his Sherwood shop.

Guests create their own recipe using a range of provided ingredients. Here Great Food editor Matt Wright shows off his mincing skills...

4

Having learnt his trade over several decades, Johnny is a master of the knives and loves to share his knowledge with guests. Here he shows the correct way to trim pork belly.

6

Finally, you tie the sausages.

Expect a few laughs along the way! Here, Nottingham’s Daz Woolley (left) shares a joke with Johnny.

5

6

CONTACT

5

... After the mincing comes the main event – squeezing the minced, seasoned pork into the pig’s intestine. It’s trickier than it looks, but you get to take home and eat the end result.

Johnny Pusztai at JT Beedham, 556 Mansfield Road, Sherwood, Nottingham, NG5 2FS, 07740 378987, jtbeedham.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 39

OUT & ABOUT

Abbey Brewin (left) and Karen Brammer of Stamford Cheese Cellar

Paul, Amanda (centre) and Elsie Hamblin, who run The Brownie Company of Stamford

Event report

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There was plenty of fresh bread for sale

ABOVE: Jon Day promotes Riverford at Sacrewell Farm’s organic food boxes

Stamford Feast – The Big Lunch Market town hosts another free food fest The chef’s demo stage was sponsored

by Stamford Cookery School

S

tamford Feast: The Big Lunch – the latest free food festival to take place on the south Lincolnshire market town’s meadows – was held on June 4. Organiser Ali Hawley-Smith estimates 12,000 visitors attended, compared with last year’s 8,000.

Stamford chef and caterer Thierry Daugeron

LEFT: Max Spence wrestles with a giant Lincolnshire Poacher Cheese, made in Alford.

RIGHT: Thierry has recently launched his own product range

40 Great Food Magazine

Local food events

Leicester Summer Food & Drink Festival

L

eicester’s food and drink festival took place at Leicester Market on Sunday, May 27. There was a wide range of traders, from city restaurants promoting their businesses – including Entropy, The Almanack and Anjuna – to local brewers such as Everards and Langton. Also present was Leicestershire cider maker, The Bottle Kicking Cider Company, making it a good event for local booze lovers.

FAR LEFT: Award-winning Leicester restaurant Entropy was keen to show off its cocktail making prowess ABOVE: Squisito is an Italian deli from Warwickshire. On the left is proprietor Sara Chambers

RIGHT: Parmjit Singh, Amanda Fernandes, Roy Fernandes and Erkan Cifti from Leicester’s Goan restaurant, Anjuna

rady’s Fish and Seafood Market (featured in Issue 12 of Great Food) was the driving force behind the first Stoneygate (Leicester) Food Festival on June 3.

The rain came down all day but the event was well supported.

LEFT: Leicester hotel/restaurant Maiyango was promoting its new deli with a range of homemade breads and tarts RIGHT: Brady’s delicious – and enormous – paella was very popular

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Event reports

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Stoneygate Jubilee Food & Drink Festival

S • FES T CU O

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Leicester’s famous covered market hosted the event

BELOW: Trying oysters for the first time. They slipped down a treat

LEFT: Leicester cake maker Esther Hartshorn of Retro Sugar RIGHT: More delights from Maiyango’s deli

Great GreatFood FoodMagazine Magazine 00 41

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Broughton. visit our Farm Shop where you can purchase delicious Bison and Venison We now have 3 rooms for Bed & Breakfast and can also cater for up meat.

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EVENT GUIDE

EAST MIDLANDS FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL October 6-7, 2012, Melton Cattle Market Sat: 10am-5pm Sun: 11am-4pm

EXHIBITOR PROFILES

FESTIVAL CHEFS’ RECIPES p52 and p54

Who to see, p46, p50 and p54

AGA RANGEMASTER COOKERY THEATRE TIMETABLE, p44 ENTRANCE PRICES: £5 pre-booked tickets £6 on the door Children under 16 free www.eastmidlandsfoodfestival.co.uk This issue of Great Food also acts as the official guide to the East Midlands Food and Drink Festival and is being given to paying entrants on the gate

greatfood Great Food Magazine 43

EVENT GUIDE

What to see and do Family, Food and Fun Zone

Making pasta in last year’s Family, Food and Fun Zone

In this area there will be a range of hands-on activities for you and the children to try, from planting your own herb garden to making fresh bread and pasta. Linda Hewett from the School of Bread Making will be on hand to offer kneading advice and more. The Rare Breed Survival Trust will be present too, with newly hatched chicks and lambs to feed.

See floorplan’s purple area, stand 223

Stephen Hallam with Rachel Green

AGA Rangemaster Cookery Demonstration Theatre There will be a full schedule of live demonstrations in the theatre throughout both Saturday and Sunday. Here are some of the chefs and bakers to look out for…

Arfan Razak: ’Raz’ recently appeared on television show The Secret Millionaire, which bolstered his reputation as a leading restaurateur who has not forgotten his humble roots.

He has a passion for authentic Indian cooking and opened The Curry Lounge in Nottingham in 2007. He has since picked up a number of high-profile awards.

Stephen Hallam: Stephen will lead hands-on classes in making authentic Melton Mowbray pork pies. Stephen is a master baker, managing director of Dickinson & Morris and runs the famous Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe in Melton Mowbray.

Dean Edwards: Dean (pictured right) is a regular chef on ITV’s Lorraine, who made his debut on This Morning in September 2009.

After coming second in BBC’s Masterchef Goes Large, Dean sought to pursue his love of cooking and food. He has also appeared in Food Uncut and Take on the Takeaway.

For more information on Dean, see www.deanedwards.co.uk Alan Coxon: TV chef and presenter Alan is also at the festival as a producer – see p47.

Rachel Green: For more on Rachel, including a recipe, see p52.

44 Great Food Magazine

AGA RANGEMASTER COOKERY DEMONSTRATION THEATRE Timetable Alan Coxon Raz Stephen Hallam Rachel Green Dean Edwards Raz Rachel Green Dean Edwards

Saturday 10:15 - 10:45 11:00 - 11:30 11:45 - 12:15 12:30 - 1:00 1:15 - 1:45 2:00 - 2:30 2:45 - 3:15 3:30 - 4:00

Sunday 10:15 - 10:45 11:00 - 11:30 11:45 - 12:15 12:30 - 1:00 1:15 - 1:45 2:00 - 2:30 2:45 - 3:15 3:30 - 4:00

The AGA Rangemaster Cookery Demonstration Theatre can be found on the floorplan just above the blue area CONTACT www.eastmidlandsfoodfestival.co.uk Twitter: @EMfoodanddrink Facebook: EastMidlandsFoodAndDrinkFestival

East Midlands Food Festival

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Shaken, stirred, juggled A new feature at the East Midlands Food & Drink Festival this year is The Cocktail Bar, featuring Zest Mixology’s ‘flair mixologists’ (also know as jugglers with bottles). Zest Mixology will showcase their passion for mixology, extensive cocktail knowledge and the ability to entertain the crowds!

Zest Mixology are at the top of the purple area on the floorplan

Brand new CAMRA beer tasting area

2012’s winning shot in the Pink Lady Photographer of the Year awards

New to the festival this year – and in recognition of the large number of breweries and micro-breweries in the East Midlands – is a beer tasting area. It will be located within the Fur and Feathers building. Tony Davis, master brewer from Oakham’s Grainstore Brewery, will talk show-goers through ales produced by his own brewery, and those from Belvoir Brewery.

Pink Tour Photography Exhibition

Beer tasting area is at the top of the purple area on the floorplan

The Pink Lady exhibition can be found on the floorplan on the right side of the green area

The Pink Lady® Food Photographer of the Year competition will bring its travelling exhibition to the festival. The awards are open to pros and amateurs across the world, with a prize of £5,000 for the winner. This year’s victor was Frenchman Jean Cazals for his Black Pigs image. The 2013 awards are now open – pinkladyfoodphotographeroftheyear.com.

Great Food Magazine 45

MEET THE EXHIBITORS

Meet the exhibitors A few stands to check out at the East Midlands Food Festival THE MELTON CHEESEBOARD Location: Stand 5 You can’t visit the East Midlands Food Festival without sampling and stocking up on cheese! The Melton Cheeseboard, a traditional cheesemonger with a shop in the centre of Melton Mowbray, specialises in Stilton, but sells more than 120 varieties. Husband and wife team Tim and Lyn Brown, assisted by other family members, really know their Cropwell from their Clawson and love nothing more than talking cheese with customers!

The Melton Cheeseboard is committed to supporting local producers and in the shop each cheese displays its own food miles on a label. Its policy is to source directly from the dairies, including the complete Long Clawson range, Lincolnshire Poacher, Bertelin Staffordshire and Shorrocks Lancashire. Fill your boots! www.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk

FIND US ON STAND 5

MOUNTAIN’S BOSTON SAUSAGE LOCATION: Stands 78 and 419 If you love genuine Lincolnshire sausages then you must visit these guys from Boston in the heart of Lincs. Dedicated to making the finest traditional sausages, but selling other products and meats too, this family-run business was established in 1852. Today Boston Sausage is owned by the fourth generation of the Mountain family and has become one of the Midlands’ leading sausage producers. Its bangers are made to a family recipe using locally sourced, outdoor-reared, British Quality Assured pork. It also sells a range of gluten-free products. www.bostonsausage.co.uk

MAURITIAN STREETFOOD LOCATION: Stand 411 Jason Horeesorun (pictured) was brought up in a traditional Mauritian household in the UK. Inspired by his mother Jamilla’s home cooking – and her all-important family recipes – he created Mauritian Streetfood. The two main dishes he serves are Du Pan Frier, a crispy chickpea bread, and Roti Chaud – a Mauritian Wrap filled with Grois Pois (butter bean curry) and Rougialle (tomatobased sauce). Look out for the trailer and give them a try! www.mauritianstreetfood.co.uk

FIND US ON STAND 411

46 Great Food Magazine

FIND US ON STANDS 78 & 419

East Midlands Food Festival FIND US ON STAND 50

COXON’S KITCHEN LOCATION: Stand 50 Alan Coxon, who is exhibiting as well as demonstrating in the AGA Rangemaster Cookery Theatre (see p44), is a successful chef, television presenter, entrepreneur and author of three cookbooks. He is also a ‘food archaeologist’ and has spent a great deal of time researching cuisine from the Roman, Medieval and Greek periods. His research has led him to create a range of award-winning historic food products, including Ancient Greek Vinaigre, Ale-Gar (described on Alan’s website as “the most unique ingredient to be created this century”) and Roman Vinaigre. Why not visit Coxon’s Kitchen and find out more about Alan’s unique products? www.alancoxon.com

GRASMERE FARM TRADITIONAL BUTCHERS

HEDGEROW PRODUCTS

LOCATION: Stand 4

Grasmere Farm produces pork from its own pigs in Deeping St James, Lincolnshire. Run

by Stuart Stables (on the left in the picture), Grasmere Farm is famous for its bacon, FIND ham and sausages. “Our pigs are reared US ON on stoneground meal, milled on our STAND farm’s 18th century watermill on the 4 River Welland,” says Stuart. “By using our own farm herds we ensure a consistent taste.

And we make everything the old fashioned way. With our bacon, for example, the meat is placed in salting troughs and then rubbed with a mixture of salts and sugar to a recipe from Sid, the late village butcher.” www.grasmere-farm.co.uk

LOCATION: Stand 108 Alastair Mattinson (BCMiE) from Hedgerow Products of Blaby, Leicestershire, handmakes a large range of seasonal chutneys, jellies and jams. He sources all his ingredients locally where possible and prepares his products in small batches using traditional recipes. You’ll find some stunning jars on Alastair’s stand, including Apple and Real Ale Chutney, Hawthorn Berry Jelly, a range of marmalades and a Chilli Coriander Dip. And with festivities not all that far away, you can also pick up some delicious Christmas Chutney. If you were wondering, BCMiE stands for Best Chutney Maker in England! www.hedgerow-products.co.uk

FIND US ON STAND 108

BELVOIR BREWERY

FIND US ON STAND 10

LOCATION: Stand 10 As revealed in Issue 11 of Great Food Magazine on our Brewery Map (available to download from our website – www.greatfoodmag.co.uk), the Midlands is a hotbed of brewing and micro-brewing. At last count it was home to 116 beer producers. One of the best is Belvoir Brewery of Old Dalby, Leicestershire.

Established in 1995 by Colin Brown, previously of Theakston and Shipstones, Belvoir Brewery supplies over 275 pubs in a 50-mile radius with ales such as Melton Red, Beaver Bitter and Dark Horse. The brewery’s beers also star in products sold in Tesco’s Finest Range including Steak and Beaver Ale Pie and Melton Red Sausages. An occasional Belvoir Brewery Christmas beer is The Blue Brew, which is made by infusing Stilton whey into the ale during the fermentation process. Be sure to try a pint of Belvoir beer at the festival! www.belvoirbrewery.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 47

EVENT GUIDE

East Midlands Food & Drink Festival EXHIBITORS, A-Z LISTINGS (correct at time of going to press) NAME

STAND 10 12 16

DESCRIPTION

WEBSITE

FARRINGTON’S OILS LTD

69

FEDERATION OF SMALL BUSINESSES

312

FEELING FOODIE

223

FLIPSIDE BREWERY LTD3 GARLIC FARM, THE GARLIC TWIST GB ITALIA UK GIFT OF OIL, THE GOOD FOOD BOX, THE GOURMET SPICE CO GRASMERE FARM TRADITIONAL BUTCHERS GREAT FOOD MAGAZINE & CLUB GROW YOUR OWN

9 15 314 208 94 402 38 4

GWATKIN CIDER CO HANDMADE TREATS HAPPY TIZING

105 215 421

Time-honoured brewing methods to create star quality beers www.belvoirbrewery.co.uk Pure fruit juices, iced lollies www.bensonsapplejuice.co.uk Local hotels with wedding facilities, www.bw-ullesthorpecourt.co.uk function & conference suites & leisure facilities Bison and venison. Healthy eating .... low cholesterol, low calories, low fat www.bisons.org Award-winning preserves from the vale of York www.brackenhillfinefoods.co.uk Handcrafted hardwood chopping boards and serving boards www.bradgatewoodcraft.co.uk Multi award-winning savoury and fruit pie swww.brocklebys.co.uk Leicestershire Wedding Venue of the Year 2011 www.brooksbyhall.co.uk Brooksby Melton College educational stand www.brooksbymelton.ac.uk Award-winning chocolate brownies in various www.thebrowniecompany.co.uk flavours with gluten-free options Wines from small growers and producers - simply the best www.pullthecork.com Award-winning flavoured brandy liqueurs, including ‘Bloody www.celticmarches.com Furlong’ and ‘Number Nine’ Liqueurs and Spirits: Danzy Jones, Black Mountain Liqueur, www.celticspirit.co.uk Keepers Tipple and Poteen Locally produced, finest quality speciality flavoured and www.cherizena.co.uk premium coffee beans Fresh goat meat and cooked burgers, sausages and naans www.chestnutmeats.co.uk Gold award-winning fruit cakes and historical farming cakes. www.churchfarmhousecakes.co.uk Plus cakes for dogs! And biscuits for children to decorate Yummy Spanish churros with a pot of warm dipping chocolate www.churrossusanna.com Picturesque historic watermill producing own organic wholemeal flour www.heartoflincs.com Cream liqueurs, fruit liqueurs and citrus liqueurs www.condessa.co.uk Authentic German salami www.continentalcottage.co.uk Artisan soft cheese, handmade on our farm using unpasteurised www.cotehill.com milk from our own herd of dairy cows Unique, award-winning historic food range www.alancoxon.com Family run business dealing in quality sauces for over 20 years www.currysauce.com Fruit wines and liqueurs made in Suffolk www.dj-wines.com Large variety of bespoke chocolate bars. Enrobed fruits www.promotions.daniels-delights.co.uk & confectionary Authentic Melton Mowbray Pork Pies from Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe www.porkpie.co.ukwww.porkpie.co.uk in the centre of Melton Mowbray. Order on-line from Authentic Melton Mowbray Pork Pies from Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe in the centre of Melton Mowbray. Order on-line from www.porkpie.co.ukwww.porkpie.co.uk A range of French, vintage and country inspired home interiors, stores.ebay.co.uk/Divine-Inspirationaccessories and gifts Interiors Britain’s blueberry pioneers and blueberry bakers www.dorsetblueberry.co.uk Gluten,wheat & dairy free cooking sauces and condiments www.saucesofchoice.co.uk Genuine Turkish delight and beautiful Turkish homeware and textiles www.dreamblue.co.uk Embroidered children’s activity books, nursery rhymes, wall charts and much more!

Everards Brewery have been brewing award-winning ales since 1849 Delicious meat and vegetable BBQ wraps or try the more exotic Binyani rice with yoghurt and cucumber. Everything is homemade, fresh and healthy!

Britain’s original cold pressed rapeseed oil, artisan dressings www.farrington-oils.co.uk & mayonnaise The UK’s leading business support organisation for small and www.fsb.org.uk/leics-northants-rutland medium enterprises Using only your sense of touch can you identify everyday fruit www.nottinghamshirehealthcare.nhs.uk and veg that we have hidden inside our Feely Boxes?

Mirobrewery producing cask and bottled conditioned craft real ales www.flipsidebrewery.co.uk The Garlic Farm - Inspired produce from the Isle of Wight www.thegarlicfarm.co.uk The Garlic Twist is a new, innovative kitchen garlic tool www.garlictwist.co.uk Exclusive, high quality Sicilian and Italian wine swww.gbitalia.com Delicious single estate olive oils. Genuinely matured balsamic vinegars www.thegiftofoil.co.uk Totally vegetarian hot food trailer. All day breakfasts etc Handmade gourmet spice blends and infusions to give food attitude! www.tastespice.co.uk Farm produced speciality sausages & pork products including www.grasmere-farm.co.uk hot cooked foods Celebrating the best local food and drink in the heart of England www.greatfoodmag.co.uk Get your hands dirty! Plant up and take home your own mini herb www.lincolnshire-herbs.co.uk garden in the Family Food and Fun Zone Real farmhouse cider and perry www.gwatkincider.co.uk Luxury Christmas Puddings (8 Varieties) marinades, dips and drizzles www.handmade-treats.co.uk Freshly ‘popped’ popcorn from a traditional American Cart available for hire

HARKERS FUDGE HEDGEROW PRODUCTS LTD JABBERWOCKY, THE JACK STRAWS COUNTRYSTORE JOHN HERMANSEN POTTERY JUST SOAPS OF THE EARTH

24 108 404 64 73 35

The best handmade fudge in the East Midlands!

Handmade and hand foraged preserves Great British Toasties, as served from a 1980’s VW van Traditional basketware and innovative new designs Handmade pottery from Derbyshire Natural handmade olive oil soaps, skincare and toiletries

BELVOIR BREWERY BENSONS FRUIT JUICE LTD BEST WESTERN LEICESTERSHIRE 4* HOTELS BOUVERIE LODGE

412

BRACKEN HILL FINE FOODS BRADGATE WOODCRAFT BROCKLEBYS BROOKSBY HALL BROOKSBY MELTON COLLEGE BROWNIE COMPANY, THE

63 54 10 308 304 51

CATCHPOLE AND FROGITT (UK) LTD CELTIC MARCHES BEVERAGES LTD

36 72

CELTIC SPIRIT CO LTD

52

CHERIZENA COFFEE BEANS

75

CHESTNUT MEATS CHURCH FARM HOUSE CAKES

90 53

CHURROS SUSANNA - LOS CHURROS COGGLESFORD MILL (NKDC) CONDESSA WELSH LIQUEURS CONTINENTAL COTTAGE LTD COTE HILL CHEESE3

401 102 40 42 7

COXON’S KITCHEN LTD CURRY SAUCE COMPANY LTD, THE D J WINES DANIEL’S DELIGHTS PROMOTIONS

50 56 29 216

DICKINSON AND MORRIS

11

DICKINSON AND MORRIS (2)

2

DIVINE INSPIRATION

310

DORSET BLUEBERRY COMPANY, THE DOVEDALE FOODS LIMITED DREAM BLUE TRADING COMPANY EDUCATIONAL ACTIVITIES

31 26 204 74

EVERARDS BREWERY LTD FAIZAN HOMEMADE FOODS

313 409

48 Great Food Magazine

68 226

www.harkersfudge.com www.hedgerow-products.co.uk thejabberwocky.co.uk www.jackstrawscountrystore.co.uk www.johnhermansenpottery.com www.justsoapsoftheearth.com

East Midlands Food & Drink Festival K & F CATERING LTD, T/A POMEGRANATE LADIES IN PIGS LADYGROVE LEICESTER TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE LEICESTERSHIRE 2000 GMB TRADE UNION LEICESTERSHIRE FOOD LINKS LEICESTERSHIRE HANDMADE CHEESE CO. LEICESTERSHIRE WASTE PARTNERSHIP LEICS & RUTLAND WILDLIFE TRUST

405 0§ 217 70 19 220 87 406 207

LINCOLNSHIRE HERBS LITTLE ROUND CAKE COMPANY, THE LOUGHBOROUGH COLLEGE LYMN BANK FARM CHEESE COMPANY MADE FROM MARBLE MANJIRA MARRON MAURITIAN STREET FOOD MED FOOD UK LTD MEDITERRANEAN DELI, THE MELTON CHEESEBOARD, THE MELTON DOMESTIC APPLIANCES MELTON MOWBRAY FIRE & RESCUE

0 309 99 76 97 67 303 411 18 23 5 104 0

MELTON PROMOTIONS MILES OF LIQUORICE MOUNTAIN’S BOSTON SAUSAGE MOUNTAIN’S BOSTON SAUSAGE (HOT) MR FITZPATRICKS LTD MR PITCHFORKS PICKLES MUNCHY SEEDS NATIONAL TRUST, THE NATTERJACK NATURAL GAME NFU NOTTINGHAMSHIRE FLAVOURS

21 62 78 419 89 85 306 28 418 111 0 201

OAK TREE FARM OFF THE BEATEN PATH OLIVE OIL FROM FRANCE PEAK BUFFALO PERADON ORGANIC FARM

305 57 206 91 408

PICKS ORGANIC

416

PIPERS CRISPS LTD PORT CELLAR LLP, THE PROVEN PRODUCTS (WOLL PANS) PROVEN PRODUCTS LTD (BAMIX) RARE BREED SURVIVAL TRUST READ F W AND SONS LTD

205 80 58 41 221 423

REAL TEA AND COFFEE COMPANY

311

REVOLUTION TEA

77

RIVERFORD ORGANICS ROBERT BOWRING FARMER & BUTCHER RUTLAND PRESERVES

17 7 22

SAINTS AND SINNERS 100 SCARBOROUGH FARE 9 SHAW MEATS LTD 82 SHAWBURY VINTNERS 103 SLOEBERRY SPIRITS 46 SNOWDONIA CHEESE 109 SPENCERFIELD SPIRIT CO LTD2 13 SPIRITS OF THE PLACE 302 STEPHEN & SANDRA SMITH CERAMICS 214 TOLLGATE BREWERY 413 VICTORIAN FAYRE 114 WATERFIELD CLOCKS 301 WELLBAKE LTD 93 WHITE DOVE BAKERY 209 WILSFORD WOODCRAFTS 307 WOODHOUSE FARM 32 WOODHOUSE FARM HOT 400 WOODLANDS ORGANIC FARM 71 (KIRTON) LTD YAKULT UK LTD 211

Truly authentic Lebanese food, including falafal wraps curries & rice Aiming to increase the consumption of British pork and pork products www.ladiesinpigs.com Ladies fashion accessories and gifts Promoting Leicester and Leicestershire selling gifts and locally www.goleicestershire.com produced food Trade Union membership information www.gmb.org.uk The home of local food in Leicestershire Traditional, handmade, unpasteurised cheeses, from our farm in Leicestershire Promotion of waste prevention campaigns and home composting

www.leicestershirefoodlinks.org.uk

Local environmental charity protecting wildlife and natural places across Scotland The UK’s largest specialist potted herb supplier An innovative bakery specializing in cakes,meringues, tarts & brownie Offers a choice of full time and part time courses Smoked and flavoured cheeses We sell beautiful handcrafted marble kitchenware and gifts South Indian Pachadis chutneys but made without sugar or vinegar Local artisan makers of cider and own recipe liqueurs We sell traditional Mauritian street food Olives, dried fruit, nuts, turkish delight and baklavas Continental bakery with artisan breads and fresh filled focaccia Great selection of local cheeses including Stilton and Leicester Local family business bringing you the best domestic appliance deals Leicestershire Fire and Rescue service

www.lrwt.org.uk

Places to stay and things to do in Melton Mowbray Purveyors of high quality liquorice products Purveyors of finest quality handmade Lincolnshire sausages Finest quality handmade Lincolnshire sausages We have the last temperanace bar in the UK Handmade delicious chutneys and jam Delicious blends of dry-roasted & flavoured seeds, nibbles & sprinkles Best time to buy National Trust membership at 25% discount Finest Somerset Scrumpy straight from the farm Gourmet British game and poultry for real food lovers!

Up to date information on countryside matters Nottinghamshire’s magazine for gourmets and foodies. Quality new and secondhand cookbooks Rare breed speciality pork sausages from farm to fork Finely crafted coffee for serious coffee drinkers Olive Oil from our trees in France and delicious honey Home reared Buffalo meat, low fat, low cholesterol, high protein Award-winning gourmet Aberdeen Angus Steak Burgers & Lamb & Wild Rosemary Burgers fresh from the farm!

Local organic farm producing organic pork, beef, lamb, and award-winning sausage and burgers Hand cooked crisps - crisps as they should taste Vintage, Ruby and Tawny Port gift sets Hand-cast German cookware with detachable handles A range of high quality cookware from Switzerland Promoting rare breed farm animals Dairy farmers producing a traditional farmhouse hard cheese using unpasteurised milk only from our own Holstein cows Speciality teas, coffees, hot chocolate, milkshakes, luxury hand-baked cookies and cakes Real tea in a bag! Traditional and exotic blends including white, green and herbal. Delicious and Healthy!

Riverford Organic Farms veg boxes, meat and more to your door Selling home-bred beef, local pork and lamb alongside homemade pies

www.leicestershirecheese.co.uk www.lesswaste.org.uk

www.lincolnshire-herbs.co.uk www.thelittleroundcakecompany.co.uk www.loucoll.ac.uk www.postacheese.com www.madefrommarble.com www.manjira.com www.marronliqueurs.co.uk www.mauritianstreetfood.co.uk www.medfood.co.uk www.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk www.mdac.co.uk www.leicestershire-fire.gov.uk/ firestations/melton.shtml www.goleicestershire.co.uk ww.bostonsausage.co.uk www.bostonsausage.co.uk www.mrfitzpatricks.com www.mrpitchforkspickles.co.uk www.munchyseeds.co.uk www.nationaltrust.org.uk www.naturalgame.co.uk www.nfuonline.com www.nottinghamshireflavours.co.uk www.trentsidesaddlebacks.co.uk www.offthebeatenpathcafe.co.uk www.peakbuffalo.co.uk www.peradonorganicfarm.co.uk www.picksorganic.co.uk www.piperscrisps.com www.theportcellar.com www.directcookware.com www.directcookware.com www.rbst.org.uk www.lincolnshirepoachercheese.com www.realteaandcoffee.co.uk www.revolutiontea.co.uk www.riverford.co.uk/sacrewell www.robertbowring.co.uk

Local artisan producers of quality homemade preserves, mustards www.rutlandpreserves.co.uk and cordials A wide range of award-winning homemade preserves www.saintsandsinnershome.co.uk Wide selection of fresh British fish and wild game in season We produce high quality products from British meats and game www.shawmeats.co.uk Exclusive wines from around the world available to sample www.shawbury-vintners.co.uk Quality liqueurs, made using traditional methods www.sloeberryspirits.co.uk Award-winning selection of premium quality waxed truckles of cheese www.snowdonia-cheese.co.uk A family run spirits company www.spencerfieldspirit.com A port for any storm! Plus enchanting wines, fiery spirits & smooth liqueurs Handmade stoneware pottery that is decorative and domestic A microbrewery producing cask-conditioned and bottle-conditioned ale www.tollgatebrewery.com A Melton Mowbray, Victorian Fayre & Christmas Tree Festival www.victorian-fayre.co.uk Waterfield Clocks - We give more than time waterfieldclocks.co.uk High quality silicone cookware and kichen accessories. www.wellbake.co.uk Gourmet cakes for every occasion facebook.com/whitedovebakery All personally handcrafted wooden items including walking sticks Home-produced beef and pork produce. Spit roast pork rolls www.woodhousefarm.co.uk Home-produced pork and beef produce, spit roasted pork rolls www.woodhousefarm.co.uk Award-winning organic arable & livestock farm from South Lincolnshire www.woodlandsfarm.co.uk Yakult fermented milk drink established since 1935

www.yakult.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 49

EXHIBITOR INSIGHT

I

f you passed a field of radiant rapeseed this summer – and it would have been virtually impossible not to – you probably felt instantly uplifted. But this bright yellow crop isn’t just beautiful, the golden oil that comes from its black seeds contains a wealth of nutrients.

As arable farmer Nick Bradley (pictured) began to sow the seeds of next year’s rapeseed crops in August, I went to see him at his 900-acre farm near Grantham, which straddles the Lincs/Leics border and overlooks the Vale of Belvoir.

Like many farmers, Nick was aware of the need to diversify. An interest in cooking and healthy eating led him to explore the possibility of using some of his rapeseed crop to make his own branded products.

Nick’s rapeseed, cold-pressed and bottled

Idea takes shape “I loved the idea of locally produced oil that would be high in flavoursome goodness but low on food miles,” explains Nick. And so Heart of Gold cold-pressed rapeseed oil was born. Over a year in development, and with its third birthday approaching, Nick’s oil shines from the shelves of the supermarkets and delis that stock it.

In a recent blind tasting in the Sunday Telegraph magazine, a reviewer said of Heart of Gold: “A faint nutty smell develops into a delicate flavour of

Gold from the V Heart of Gold rapeseed oil is Leicestershire’s Vale of

50 Great Food Magazine

c B

s

Rapeseed oil fresh wild herbs. It tastes like a summer’s day!” Praise indeed. And deservedly so. Nick has perfected the art of sowing, harvesting and pressing over three years of manufacturing Heart of Gold.

“The tiny black seeds are harvested, cleaned and slowly crushed to extract the oil. It is then left to settle naturally before being filtered three times,” he explains. This method of cold pressing, while producing less volume, ensures the resulting golden oil is pure.

Low food miles “I am proud that Heart of Gold is is grown, pressed, filtered and bottled in the same square mile,” says Nick. “It is sustainable and traceable.”

Heart of Gold rapeseed oil is also free from preservatives, trans-fats and artificial colourings. And as people who cook with it will know, rapeseed oil

Vale

has a considerably higher flashpoint than olive oil, so is especially good for frying.

“It also makes the most wonderful salad dressings – you only need to add lemon juice and seasoning,” says Nick. “We also make beautiful cakes with it. Banana loaf is a personal favourite. It is, of course, just a substitute for butter but I think it tastes nicer – everything has a healthier tang to it somehow and the cakes are moist,” he adds.

Rhythm of the seasons The annual cycle begins in August when the seeds are planted. Heralding the start of summer, the crops come into flower in late April and May and once the yellow blooms have gone the seeds are harvested over a couple of days in high summer. Stripped from their pods, the round seeds, reminiscent of tiny ball bearings, are stored and crushed.

Nick produces a steady flow of bottles from his farm, which are then distributed around the East Midlands to over 60 delis, farm shops and supermarkets, including Lincolnshire Co-Op, Waitrose, Asda and Tesco stores. The half-litre bottle retails for around £3.99. For further info, go to www.heartofgoldrapeseedoil.co.uk

Local & healthy Heart of Gold rapeseed oil is grown in fields near Belvoir Castle (pictured above in the background).

Rapeseed oil contains less saturated fat than olive oil.

SEE HEART GOLD OF EAST M AT THE IDLAND FOOD & S FESTIVADRINK STAND L AT 14

cold-pressed from crops grown near Belvoir. Rachel Cullis Dorsett finds out more…

Great Food Magazine 51

RECIPE

Rachel Green’s Lincolnshire Sausage, Shallot and Borlotti Bean Soup Rachel Green, who recently appeared in Jimmy and the Giant Supermarket on Channel 4, is a regular at the East Midlands Food and Drink Festival and will be strutting her stuff in the event’s AGA Rangemaster Cookery Theatre (see floorplan and timetable on p44). Rachel lives in Lincolnshire and is a big fan of the county’s produce, especially its famous sausages.

Serves 4-6

* 2 tbsp rapeseed oil * 12 shallots, peeled and

left whole * 8 Lincolnshire sausages * 1 carrot, peeled and finely diced * 3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped * 1 x 400g tin chopped plum tomatoes * ô tbsp tomato purée

52 Great Food Magazine

* 1 x 400g tin borlotti beans, drained and rinsed

* 55ml red wine * 700ml chicken stock * 1 bay leaf * 1 tsp caster sugar * 150g Savoy cabbage, finely shredded

* 2 tbsp parsley,

finely chopped

* Sea salt and black pepper

1 Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan or saucepan. Add the shallots and sausages and sauté for five to ten minutes, browning them all over.

2 Add the carrots and sauté for a further three minutes. Tip in the garlic and cook for 30 seconds, then the tomatoes, tomato purée, borlotti beans, wine, stock, sugar and bay leaf. Season well with sea salt and black pepper. Bring to the boil and

simmer for 15 minutes on a low heat.

If the soup becomes too thick, add a little more stock.

3 Add the cabbage and parsley. Mix and cook for a further five minutes, until the cabbage is just cooked.

4 Remove sausages and slice each into three pieces. Divide between serving bowls and pour soup over the top. Garnish with a little more parsley and serve with warm bread.

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EXHIBITOR INSIGHT

FIN MAR D HIS GOK AND UR SPIC MET ON STAES ND 38

PRODUCER DIARY

Out of the frying pan...

Last year, Mark Hughes left the corporate world to become an artisan producer of spice blends. He shares his experiences…

O

ne year on in this adventure and I’m celebrating by adding something else to my list of experiences: my first cooking demonstration. Sure, I have cooked in front of people before but it certainly didn’t involve getting up onto a stage. So, there seemed no better place than Stamford Feast (see p40), the event that marked our first day of trading last year.

In hindsight I was a touch ambitious. To keep people interested I thought I’d do three, yes three, dishes in my 30 minute slot. My theory was it would involve less ad-libbing (or rambling) whilst I was waiting for things to cook, plus I wanted to share the recipes.

Because I mainly work alone, time is scarce and I’d spent the preceding weeks doing anything but sort out my menu.

Although the food demo date was looming, I didn’t finalise my dishes until the day before.

One of them, ‘Goats’ Cheese Salad on a Stick’, I’d made up the afternoon before. As it’s a bit fiddly at the best of times, I’d prepared most of them in advance. I’d even done a checklist to make sure I remembered everything.

Sadly, I didn’t remember to put “check fridge for Goats’ Cheese Salad”, which meant two things: I didn’t have a huge amount of samples to go around on the day, but I had a lovely snack when I got home.

Afterwards, I’m told I was being hard on myself when I likened it to Jamie’s 30 Minute Meals with none of the organisation. Yes, there were a few hitches but overall I was happy. When it finished. I left that day feeling invigorated and excited if a little relieved.

In one sense, it ‘closed the loop’ for me too.

For the past year I had made, sampled, sold and talked spices; now I was cooking with them for people to try. Even though I’d sampled every weekend, nothing beats showing someone how to use your products.

I never realised how pivotal this demo would be to my business until I’d done it. As small a step as it may seem, I would urge other small producers to go beyond just sampling and actually cook a meal in front of people. You may be surprised to find you’ll learn as much about yourself and your products as your audience does. Q

Mark demonstrating at Stamford Feast

A Middle Eastern treat

Mark’s Middle Eastern Stuffed Tortillas This is a versatile dish, perfect for using up lamb, pork or beef leftovers. One spice you may not have tried before is Sumac. Made from the dried, crushed berries of a Sumac tree, it is an essential part of Middle Eastern

cuisine, imparting a citrusy, almost bitter taste that’s delicious in marinades, seasonings, stews and soups. Its partner, Za’atar, is Sumac with herbs and spices, and combined they deliver an incredible flavour.

Serves 4-6 as a snack

* 350g lamb mince (or any leftover meat,

chopped finely) * Zest and juice of 1 lemon * 1 tbsp Sumac * 1 tbsp Za’atar * 1 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted and ground * 1 tsp smoked paprika * Pinch salt and pepper * 1 large egg, beaten * 6 flour tortillas or flatbreads * 5 spring onions, finely chopped * Coriander and mint leaves, finely chopped * Houmous and sour cream or natural yoghurt to serve * Splash rapeseed oil 1 Fry the mince in a hot non-stick pan (with no oil), breaking up any chunks. When just cooked, add the spices (save a pinch of each), half the lemon juice and zest, stir well, tip into a large bowl and allow to cool slightly.

2 Mix in the egg, a pinch of salt and pepper and most of the spring onions.

3 Lay out the tortillas and spread the mixture on one half, leaving a little gap at the edge.

Fold over the tortilla and press down gently to form a half-moon shape.

4 Place on a lightly oiled baking tray, oil the underside of a smaller tray and place that on top of the tortillas (this crisps them up).

5 Place in a hot oven, Gas 7 (220°C), for 7-8 minutes; take out, chop into wedges and place on a serving platter (I use a chopping board).

6 Put the yoghurt in a bowl and add most of the herbs, a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of salt and stir; spoon on the houmous straight onto the board, make a small well in the middle and squeeze in the rest of the lemon juice and a splash of rapeseed oil.

7 Scatter over the remaining herbs, spring onions and the reserved pinches of spices.

Mark Hughes is based near Weldon in Northamptonshire. His business, Gourmet Spice Co, is part of Great Food Club and was a finalist for Most Innovative Business at the iNET Food Innovation Awards: www.tastespice.co.uk, Twitter – @GourmetSpiceCo

54 Great Food Magazine

EXHIBITOR INSIGHT

LOCAL PRODUCER

Bridging the gap Great Food contributor Lucy Cufflin has launched a new business aiming to link up local producers with retailers

L

ucy Cufflin has an acclaimed cook book under her belt, puts on pop-up restaurants and produces handmade readymeals that are sold at delis in Leicester.

But she isn’t promoting these at her stall at this year’s East Midlands Food and Drink Festival. Instead she is showcasing her new project – Local Artisan Foods.

“Local Artisan Food’s aim is to bring high quality food produced by small independent local businesses to shops, pubs and restaurants,” she says. “We want to provide a one-stop shop of artisan food products, supplying farm shops, delis, cafés, pubs, restaurants, bars and retailers.”

Lucy recognises the practical

The Local Artisan Foods team: from left Lucy Lee-Tirrell, James Hobart, Lucy Cufflin, Claire Van Dijk, Stuart Smithers and Rosie Clark.

challenges that small local producers face in selling and supplying their products to

shops, pubs and restaurants.

Delivery can be tricky, as can presentation and packaging.

“Chefs and retailers want to use locally produced artisan foods but often find it hard to source them,” Lucy says. Local Artisan Foods helps, bridging the thorny gap between producer and retailer or kitchen. “We will make a range of artisan products readily available – and affordable – to discerning food business owners. We will also add value to the products we wholesale, offering recipes that allow the products to be used affordably.

We will supply information about each producer and product, which can be used on blackboards, menus and info packs. This will increase consumer TALK TO interest in the LOCAL products.” Q

ARTIS FOODSAN STANDAT 44

A few Local Artisan Foods products and producers Cropwell Bishop traditional rennet Stilton

Lucy’s Rocky Road

SAYS LUCY: “Hardly a revolutionary new producer, I hear you say? Well, no, but here’s the thing: its Stilton is made using old fashioned rennet.

The result is an exceptional cheese. Local Artisan Foods is offering kitchens the ability to buy Cropwell Bishop in 2kg bags, crumbled and ready to use for cooking. We are proud of this because we have helped Cropwell Bishop make good use of natural excess, while at the same time providing restaurants with an affordable way to get this special Stilton on their menus.”

Sugar and Twine preserves SAYS LUCY: “Based in Leicestershire, Sugar and Twine aims to produce preserves and confectionary in varieties not available in supermarkets. It makes fabulous flavours like pear and cardamom; rhubarb, pear and vanilla; and strawberry and mint. These jams are special but made even more so by the use of local ingredients – so local that Sugar and Twine has forged links with the allotment society down the road, turning its gluts into divine jams to grace our tables. Local Artisan Foods loves Sugar and Twine!”

Lucy’s Food SAYS LUCY: “I have a passion for local ingredients and use them in my products whenever possible. My frozen readymeals are made with locally reared lamb, pork, chicken and beef, and I pick apples from trees growing in my mother’s friends’ gardens for my chutney. I then finish the chutney off with beer brewed by Leicestershire’s Everards. I also use this beer for fruit loaves and some very special brownies. One of the unique services that Lucy’s Food – through Local Artisan Foods – offers to breweries and pubs is to make chutneys, fruit loaves or brownies using their own beer. The minimum order is 40 jars and we will even create the labels.”

Local chef Lucy is author of acclaimed cookbook Lucy’s Food and puts on pop-up restaurants around Leicestershire.

She has recently closed her food and kitchenware shop in Leicester’s Stoneygate to focus on her new Local Artisan Foods project.

Great Food Magazine 55

Growing your own

NOTES FROM THE V It’s time for a little creative recycling in Charlie Boyd’s Rutland veg patch

W

hat a difference a year makes. Twelve months ago I was reporting on a bumper courgette harvest, having previously been worried about one of the driest springs on record – and the effect it would have on my arrid patch. This year, however, has supplied rain, rain and more rain, turning my veg patch into a

weedbed with the occasional bit of veg poking through. I’m blaming the wettest spring ever recorded, but mainly the fault is my own. I rushed into extending my patch and didn’t take time to ensure that the weeds and grass that formerly occupied the space had been thoroughly killed off.

I’m pretty fed up about it (but not as fed up as my farming neighbours whose pea crop has been all but

ruined by the soggy ground) and vow to do it right this year. Next issue I’ll show you how to go about creating a weed-free veg patch to survive whatever 2013 throws at it. All this rain has forced the veg gardener to get creative and find new places in which to grow their fare. Pots and troughs are all very well – tried and tested and up to the job – but we wanted to do something a little different…

How to create a feature planter – free!

What you’ll need

* Something with a drawer * Some paint * A paintbrush * Sandpaper * Drawer-lining material such as polythene * Varnish (optional)

1

Take an unused piece of furniture with a drawer. We used an old bedside table that was gathering dust in the garage, but you could go grander with a full-size chest of drawers or sideboard.

3

Use any paint you like.

We had this left over from decorating our bathroom and thought the strong colour would create impact.

You don’t need to worry too much about doing a perfect job, as the planter’s going to be left out 365 days a year, exposed to all the elements.

5

When the paint is dry, you could add a coat of clear varnish to further help protect it.

Bold colours work well

Tomato plants for your drawer

56 Great Food Magazine

2 4

If your piece of furniture has been waxed or varnished, you’ll need to sand it, just to make the surface more abrasive – this will help the paint to stick and avoid extreme chipping.

7

Now fill your drawer.

We simply transplanted some tomato plants from a past-its-best old crate, but you could grow your chosen fruit or veg straight from seed.

6 8

Line your drawer(s) to prevent the wood from rotting. I used a heavy-duty bin liner.

Use any storage space to keep your gardening gear. Next spring, repaint in a different colour and sand patches to reveal the old colour. Repeat year after year and you’ll have a brilliant shabby chic planter – and you’ll have saved decent furniture from landfill, too.

VEG PATCH Recipes for autumn produce

Courgette carbonara

Courgettes are my favourite. There, I’ve said it. They’re easy to grow, they look good, taste beautiful and – given the right weather conditions – grow right through from summer to autumn. This is one extremely quick and simple dish that makes the courgette the deserving star of the show.

Serves 4

* 100g pancetta, cubed * 100g parmesan, grated * 2 cloves of garlic, peeled * 3 large eggs * 50g butter * 350g spaghetti * Two medium courgettes, grated

TOP TIP

Save some of the cooking water from the pasta and add a splash of it to your finished dish for more moisture and a glossy finish

1 Cook the spaghetti according to the packet instructions.

2 Melt the butter in a large non-stick pan over a mediumhigh heat, then add the pancetta and whole garlic cloves.

3 When the pancetta is golden, remove the cloves and add the courgettes. Cook the courgettes gently until soft.

4 Add the cooked pasta to the pan, remove from the heat and mix through.

5 In a bowl, mix the beaten eggs and cheese and season.

6 Pour the mixture into the pan and stir, off the heat – serve with a little more grated cheese.

Spicy squash soup There’s a great variety of squashes that are easy to grow and TOP TIP look amazing. The If the soup is too supermarkets may favour spicy for some butternut, but small dark of your clan, add green Acorn squashes and a swirl of natural round, orange Onion yoghurt to squashes are every bit as their bowls good to eat.

Serves 6

* Two or three small squashes * 3 medium onions, chopped * 4 cloves garlic, chopped * 2 sticks celery, chopped * Half-thumb sized piece of ginger, grated * Bunch fresh coriander leaves, chopped * 1 dried red chilli, finely chopped * 1 tsp ground coriander * 1 tsp ground cumin * 1 tsp garam masala (or your favoured spice mix) 1 Cut squashes into thumb-sized pieces, discarding seeds, season and roast in a little olive oil, covered with foil, at Gas Mark 4 (180°C) for 25 minutes.

2 Allow to cool before removing the squashes’ skin.

3 In a large pan or casserole dish, sautee the onion and celery in a little butter until onion is translucent, then add garlic, ginger, chilli and spices.

4 Cook for five minutes, stirring occasionally.

5 Add the cooked squashes and enough water to cover, stir and

cook on a low heat for around 30-40 minutes.

6 Ladle into a food processor to blend into a smooth consistency, but a leave a few chunks for texture. Serve sprinkled with the chopped coriander.

Great Food Magazine 57

PUB WALK

Swans on the Grantham Canal at the bridge mentioned in Step 5

The walk

PARK ON Main Street in the middle of Woolsthorpe-byBelvoir (not to be confused with Woolsthorpe-by-Colsterworth, which is a different village), next to the sign for the Chequers Inn. Facing the post office and village store, turn right and walk towards the crossroads sign.

1

A buggy-friendly walk in the heart of the Vale of Belvoir

2

GO STRAIGHT over the crossroads, walking along Sedgebrook Road.

CONTINUE PAST the last house in the village and carry on for around 300 yards before turning right towards

3

A three-mile stroll suitable for all-terrain pushchairs and lovers of good hostelries

Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright. AM44/10.

W

hen you’ve got a baby, tackling a pub walk can be a challenge, writes Matt Wright. Unless you’re happy carting little one around in a baby sling, you need a route suitable for a buggy, with no stiles, no threat of rampaging bullocks, and a lack of traffic.

You also need a good pub nearby that serves excellent food, and probably don’t want to be on your feet for hours.

Having recently become parents ourselves, we scoured our Midlands OS maps to find such a route. What we discovered fits all the above criteria.

However, due to slightly uneven, stony ground during the fairly steep ascent up the Viking Way, you do need a decent

OVERVIEW OF AREA

58 Great Food Magazine

}

The Viking Way

A footpath running across 147 miles of eastern England, the Viking Way starts under the Humber Bridge, passes through the Lincolnshire Wolds, flirts with Leicestershire, and then nips into Rutland.

all-terrain buggy that can handle bumps (a ‘Baby Jogger’, for example). A standard pushchair designed for pavements alone will struggle on this section, which climbs for about three-quarters of a mile. The rest of the walk could be tackled easily by any sort of pushchair, or wheelchair.

The tow path along the Grantham canal is pretty on a nice day, as are the views of Belvoir Castle, which sits on the hill opposite Woolsthorpe like a gothic vision from Harry Potter. The Chequers Inn at Woolsthorpe is a fine pub that serves good food, and there are plenty of other great pubs nearby too (see right). Q NOTES: We’ve done this walk and believe that the instructions are accurate. Take a map – OS Explorer 247 – and allow enough time.

The Chequers, Woolsthorpe

A large 17th century country pub set back from Woolsthorpe’s Main Street, The Chequers Inn is Lincolnshire’s Dining Pub of the Year 2012, according to the Good Pub Guide. Rural pubs don’t come much more attractive than the Chequers, and if you visit be sure to check out the Bakehouse dining room, which used to be the village bakery. You could happily settle in for an entire afternoon here – the bar is extremely The Chequers, which has a large garden to the rear

Woolsthorpe-by-Belvoir

PUB WALK

Detailed walk map rain, the track was muddy and uneven. It was a challenge to push our baby buggy up the track but we managed it with a little effort.

AFTER WALKING along the Viking Way for a mile, join Cliff Road. Turn right.

7

FOLLOW THE road downhill for just over half a mile all the way back to Woolsthorpe-by-Belvoir.

There is no pavement but the road is wide and fairly quiet.

Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright. AM44/10.

8

AT THE T-junction, turn left, rejoining Main Street and returning to your car near The Chequers Inn.

9

Woolsthorpe Wharf (at the time of writing, signposted The Rutland Arms and ‘Bobby Taylor’s Famous Dirty Duck’).

Before turning right, if you look behind you and to the left you get a great view of Belvoir Castle (pictured left).

WALK TOWARDS Woolsthorpe Wharf, past the Dirty Duck pub. Cross the bridge over the

4

Grantham Canal and then turn right to follow the tow path.

FOLLOW THE canal for half a mile and at the next bridge, leave the tow path, cross the bridge and join the Viking Way track.

5

FOLLOW THE Viking Way track for one mile, walking uphill for around threequarters of a mile. When we did this walk in July 2012 after lots of heavy

6

Locks on the Grantham Canal

The editor’s wife Philippa, son Enzo and dog Rocco on the Viking Way

Other good pubs just a short drive away...

The bar room at The Chequers

inviting – although if eating then booking a table is a must. The food is good and on our last visit the steak we had was sublime. The Chequers is perfect for a long, relaxed Sunday lunch (two courses £13.95) and there is a lengthy a la carte menu. Choose between pub classics like local sausages and mash or mains such as chargrilled leg of lamb with Anna potatoes, veg and mint oil.

The Wheel at Branston

The Gregory at Harlaxton

The Manners’ Arms at Knipton

Branston is a pretty Vale village and The Wheel is perfectly suited to such a place. Bursting with character, and with a reputation for good but unpretentious food, The Wheel is a thoroughbred village pub. At the time of writing, the menu – simple and understated – looks promising.

Situated opposite Harlaxton College, The Gregory is a large 19th century pub on the A607, run by the same people who own The Chequers (left).

Good food is a priority, and one reader who regularly patronises The Gregory recommends its Thursday steak nights.

The Manners’ Arms, originally a hunting lodge built for the sixth Duke of Rutland, sits in the shadow of Belvoir Castle.

A handsome country pub, it also has a lovely patio. The AA Rosette kitchen, headed by Tom Eden-Smith, offers a range of seasonal dishes best described as modern British.

13 Main St, Branston NG32 1RU, 01476 870376

The Drift, Harlaxton NG32 1AD, 01476 577076

Croxton Road, Knipton NG32 1RH, 01476 879222

CONTACT: Main St, Woolsthorpeby-Belvoir, Lincs NG32 1LU 01476 870701, www.chequersinn.net

Great Food Magazine 59

THE GUYROPE GOURMET

CAMPSITE COOKERY

Al fresco improv

Thinking on your feet is key to tent-side cuisine, says Josh Sutton

T

he campsite kitchen isn’t much different to the home kitchen – it just takes a bit of getting used to. You might be bereft of modern conveniences – a warmer drawer would come in handy – but my camp kitchen is almost as versatile as the hotchpotch Heath Robinson affair I cook in back home.

The thing I love about the camp kitchen is you have to think on your feet; improvisation is key. Improvisation, of course, extends to utensils as well as cooking techniques. I’d be lost without my trusty Swiss army knife; I use it to secure the gas hose to my stove, to open tins of tomatoes, and it’s great for chopping garlic. I am, however, forced to admit that I’ve never actually used the tool for getting things out of horses hooves! The Swiss army knife is simply the best and most versatile birthday present I’ve ever received, right down to using it to open a bottle of Finca la Colina, which goes so well with this recipe for an al fresco warm salad.

Chorizo is an ideal camping staple. It’s an ambient food, so doesn’t need refrigerating and keeps well. Everyone should have some stashed in their camp larder (vegetarians may disagree, but you could use it as a spare tent peg or something – it will come in handy!). A key aim of the Guyrope Gourmet is to use food that’s available locally to the campsite you’re staying on, and I’m pleased to say that, increasingly, chorizo is being made here in the UK by adventurous farmers, butchers and charcutiers.

Andrew Wincott at Woodhouse Farm in Elmesthorpe, Leicestershire, is a shining example of a local chorizo champion. His air-dried, gluten-free Spanish-style sausage is made on the farm and sold via his virtual farm shop – www.woodhousefarm.co.uk – as well as in his real shop on Burbage Common Road, Elmesthorpe. It’s perfect for this warm salad, which always stirs up fond memories of the sirocco wind tousling my hair, as I dip my toes in the pool. It tastes just as good standing ankle-deep in a puddle during storm force winds, which is handy for UK campers. It only takes a few minutes to make and, weather aside, is an excellent addition to any al fresco feast, be it on the campsite or in your own back yard at home. Q

Sunshine salad

Forget about cheap bangers and baked beans, campsite food can be so much more

The Guyrope Gourmet’s warm salad of chorizo, potato, rocket and cherry tomato Serves 4

* 8 -12 whole baby new potatoes

(Jersey Royals if you can get them)

* 1 chorizo sausage * 1 bag rocket leaves * 1 handful cherry tomatoes, halved * 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped * Olive oil * Black pepper and sea salt to taste

Sausage and spuds, Spanish campsite style

1 Par-boil the potatoes, whole, for four or five minutes. Don’t overcook them – they should be firm when stabbed with your Swiss army knife and stick to the blade, rather than sliding off. Remove from the heat, drain well and halve. Allow to cool a little.

2 While the potatoes are cooking, heat a little olive oil in a pan and add the chopped garlic.

Cut the chorizo into 1cm chunks, turn up the heat and add the meat to the pan together with the potatoes. After a couple of minutes of frying, the ingredients will take on a deep red colour as the oil and paprika work their way out of the chorizo. Turn down to a gentle simmer for five minutes to finish cooking the potatoes. Season to taste.

3 Spread out a couple of layers of kitchen roll in a bowl and tip the chorizo and potatoes on top to absorb excess oil. Leave to cool for a minute while you halve the cherry tomatoes.

Remove the kitchen roll and add the tomatoes and bag of rocket. Mix, drizzle with a glug of good olive oil and serve warm.

The Guyrope Gourmet (Josh Sutton) is an outdoor-loving Yorkshireman. His aim is to inspire young and old to blend excellent food with good camping. He says campsite food should be about far more than bangers and beans – www guyropegourmet.com

60 Great Food Magazine

Helen Tarver

The Foodie Gift Hunter

Preserving the sunshine

Now is the time to gather, preserve and jar up

A

s I write this, they’re announcing the stats showing how awful – overall – the weather has been this summer.

Which makes me nervous that we may be denied one of the great culinary pleasures of autumn. Will there be blackberries for jam?

Will there be sloes for gin? Not if we don’t see enough sun there won’t. But if we do, gosh, the fruit should be nice and plump.

I love the whole process of turning summer’s bounty into great store cupboard standbys for the dark days of the winter ahead. From happy afternoons out in the sunshine gathering in the fruit, through picking it over, then taking in the scent as sun-warmed berries bubble away in juices and sugar. Then there’s the first time you take down a jar of your own jam and dip back into it – memories of happy, sunny days back again.

Maybe it’s a reaction to the times we find ourselves in, but there seems to be a real

renaissance in preserving, and not just jam.

As we’ll no doubt see at village shows, tables will also be groaning under the weight of homemade chutneys. Although we don’t seem to see much pickling. Maybe it’s just that the produce we grow here lends itself

more to chutney than pickles, or maybe we just don’t have the same culture of gherkins that other nations do. Of course, if we lived in warmer climes, then we’d be sun-drying our tomatoes on verandahs.

But just because there isn’t much sunshine doesn’t mean you can’t get clever with the glut. One of the great things about the internet is that there is always someone, somewhere who’s done it before you and has a great recipe to share!

It’s also a great time to cook together, or share the bounty. Got a neighbour with a tree laden with fruit they don’t seem to be picking? Offer them a share in what you make in return for the fruit. You get good produce for free, they get homemade goodies, and you might both get to know each other a bit better. Although if my neighbours would like to stop leaving their courgette glut on my doorstep, that would be lovely! Mainly because a courgette is not a courgette when it’s over two-foot long! Q

You can always buy it from Sugar and Twine

Learn to preserve more than just fruit at Hartingtons

IF YOU DON’T want to make your own, then I can highly recommend jams from Sugar and Twine. Based on seasonal ingredients, these are incredibly interesting combinations of flavours and just a little bit different. Liven up your morning toast with something like Raspberry with Mint and Lime, or recall the summer with Gooseberry, Elderflower and Lemon. Based in Leicestershire, you’ll find Sugar and Twine jams at good food fairs around the counties, or you can buy online, where you’ll also find their range of amazing marshmallows.

Definitely worth a try – I love the lemonade flavour. From £3. www.sugarandtwine.co.uk

IF YOU’RE LOOKING to expand your preserving skills then book a place on the Artisan Preserves, Oils and Dressings course at Hartingtons School of Food and Drink. Led by Glynne Smith, owner of the Fruit and Herb Company, you’ll learn to make and take home chilli jam and fruit jelly, as well as finding out how to flavour oils and make vinaigrettes. It’s a great course and a lovely environment in which to learn, not far from the centre of Bakewell.

Courses run in September, January and next April, should you want to get organised! From £95. www.hartingtons.com

Vale of Belvoir-based Helen Tarver, aka The Foodie Gift Hunter, blogs almost daily on her website: www.thefoodiegifthunter.co.uk.

She’s @presentsqueen on Twitter, where she can be found offering regular bite-sized chunks on food, drink, gifts and more.

Great Food Magazine 61

Show us your

DREAM KITCHEN

Each issue we show off a great kitchen, like this one by Alison Hutchinson DESIGNER PROFILE

LIGHTS

Subtle and attractive downlights provide all the illumination you could need.

NAME: Alison Hutchinson Design

COMPANY BACKGROUND

A trained designer with more than 10 years’ experience, Rutland-based Alison specialises in creating beautiful homes and gardens.

She works on interior and garden design projects throughout Lincolnshire, Rutland, Northamptonshire, Leicestershire and further afield.

HOW DOES SHE WORK?

Alison says she is particularly adept at taking the pressure off busy clients and will happily project manage from start to finish if required.

GRANITE

This granite surface is called Kashmir White – it’s practical and stylish, and bounces light around the room.

CABINETS

Oak cabinets with simple stainless steel handles have a timeless look, and curved surfaces give the kitchen a feeling of flow.

CONTACT

SUBSCRIBE! Have every issue of Great Food delivered – see p27 62 Great Food Magazine

Alison Hutchinson Design, Morcott, Rutland, 01572 747318, 07973 843020 www.alisonhutchinsondesign.co.uk

T

his gorgeous shaker-style kitchen is by Rutland-based Alison Hutchinson Design. Fitted into a very old house, it gives a beautiful contemporary feel where a traditional kitchen might have looked too twee. The oak cabinets and inners create a streamlined look, with a complementary

painted cabinet providing a bespoke larder within the room.

Tasteful details The surfaces are kept light with the use of pale Kashmir White granite. Cupboard handles are simple stainless steel and a hot tap gives instant hot water.

Alisonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchen designs draw on her love of cooking and family life, so she knows how to create a space at the heart of the home. And for those finishing touches she will create a handpicked selection of paint colours, fabrics and wallpapers as well as planting a vegetable or herb garden.

PAINT Large vertical radiator looks stylish and heats the entire room

White and mushroom greys give this kitchen a modern feel.

Wooden work surfaces provide natural warmth

Great Food Magazine 63

tea afternoon menu

Served from Midday

Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Selection Barnsdale Hall Cream Tea ÂŁ6.50

2 Scones, Clotted cream, strawberry jam and a pot of home blend English tea or coffee

Barnsdale High Tea ÂŁ12.50

Selection of finger sandwiches, scones, clotted cream, raspberry jam, a selection of home made cakes all served with freshly brewed pot of home blend English tea or coffee Specialty teas available from the Twiningâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Selection.

Nr Oakham | Rutland | LE15 8AB

Tel: 01572 725174 www.barnsdalehotel.co.uk

:+,66(1',1( /$1( &2/' 29(5721 /( 4) ZZZ OHVURVELIVDWQRUWKÂżHOGIDUP FR XN

Creating beautiful homes and gardens

t *OUFSJPS BOE ,JUDIFO %FTJHO t -BOETDBQF BOE (BSEFO %FTJHO t #VJME BOE 1SPKFDU .BOBHFNFOU 12 Willoughby Road, Morcott, Rutland. LE15 9DY Telephone: 01572 747318 Mobile: 07973 843020

www.alisonhutchinsondesign.co.uk

Where to

EAT & DRINK Your guide to local restaurants, pubs and more P72

Derbyshire

Welbeck

Bakewell

Lincoln Ollerton

Matlock

Mansfield

FOTHERGILLS Nottingham

Newark

P73

Lincs

Notts

Ashbourne

FUMO

Birmingham

Sleaford

Nottingham

Derby

Grantham

Burton

Staffs

Leics

Melton Oakham

Lichfield

Rutland

Stamford

Leicester

Peterboroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Warwicks

Corby

Market Harboro

Birmingham

Oundle

Stilton

Kettering

P74

P67 Rugby Warwick

THE GARDEN BARN Cotesbach

Northants Northampton

Beds

HAMMER & PINCERS Wymeswold

Great Food Magazine 65

WHERE TO EAT

Where to eat

LOCAL RESTAURANT NEWS What’s simmering and steeping at some great local venues?

By Tim Burke Local restaurant news is sponsored by Great Food Club

Rob Hartwell

PUB CHEF OF THE YEAR Rob Hartwell, head chef at the Rose and Crown in Warwick, has won the title of Pub Restaurant Chef of the Year at the 2012 Craft Guild of Chefs Awards. Rob, 28, is a previous winner of a catering industry Acorn Scholarship that saw him travel to the Far East, where he worked with leading chefs including Bill Granger. He has been at the Rose and Crown for 18 months and pub manager Jonathan Carter said Rob is a head chef who is passionate about the provenance of food.

“He’s always creating new dishes and takes such a lot of care in putting his menus together.”

The Rose and Crown, 30 Market Place, Warwick CV34 5SH, 01926 411117, www.roseandcrownwarwick.co.uk FRANKS HAMBURGERS Popular Northampton steakhouse Franks has extended the brand with the opening of a sister restaurant – Franks Hamburger House.

Like the steakhouse, the new restaurant uses prime local beef from Church Farm, Overstone.

66 Great Food Magazine

There’s a Tex-Mex feel to the menu with sharing starters such as chicken wings with honey and lime, and burgers like the Steelback, coming with chilli, jalapeno and cheese.

Franks Hamburger House, 159 Wellingborough Road, Northampton, 01604 948904, www.frankssteakhouse.co.uk ALBERO BOWS OUT Albero, the highly-rated Northampton college restaurant providing employment and training opportunities for catering students, has closed over cash concerns. College principal Len Closs said its failure to generate sufficient income was due to operating in a nationwide downturn and is no reflection on the staff. The restaurant was given a positive review for good value and pleasant service in Great Food’s March 2012 edition.

London with Japanese chefs for eight years. The small, traditional sushi bar offers a wide range of nigiri, maki, futomaki, uramaki, gunlan and shashimi. Gllama also offers beginners’ and advanced sushi classes for would-be chefs or just fun parties.

Sushi Passion, Unit 30D, Bullring Indoor Market, Birmingham B5 4RQ, 07414 654280

Get your sushi fix at the Bullring

Albero has now closed

SUSHI IN THE BULLRING Sushi lovers in Birmingham are welcoming the opening of Sushi Passion in the Bullring. Polish chef Adam Gllama has learnt his trade working in

MARCO IN NOTTINGHAM Marco Pierre White has opened the latest branch of his Steakhouse Bar and Grill at the Alea Casino in Nottingham. The refurbished restaurant opened in late July with a menu featuring 28-day aged native breed steaks with triple cooked chips, plus a range of grilled meats, fish and pies. There’s an extensive wine list and highrollers who have got lucky can celebrate with a bottle

of 2002 Dom Perignon at £160.

Alea venue director Mark Hands said: “We’re absolutely thrilled to have someone of Marco's calibre open one of his restaurants at Alea. We hope it will attract more people to the region, who will see for themselves why Nottingham is such a great place to visit.”

Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill, 180 Upper Parliament Street, Nottingham NG1 6LF, 0115 8720602, http://nottingham. aleacasinos.com PURNELL'S BISTRO Glyn Purnell is closing his second Birmingham fine dining restaurant Asquith’s and relaunching it as Purnell’s Bistro.

The Michelin-starred Brummie opens the new bistro on September 5, saying it will offer “honest portions of food, inspired by rustic home cooking but with an eclectic twist.” Purnell will continue to cook at his eponymous city centre restaurant, with Michael Dipple becoming head chef at the bistro.

Purnell’s Bistro, 11 Newhall Street, Birmingham B3 3NY, 0121 2001588, www.purnellsbistro-gingers.com

Birmingham chef Glyn Purnell

Restaurants D

AT FOO RE G

Hammer & Pincers, Wymeswold Local sourcing and great cooking at its best SPECIALITIES: Local produce, homemade breads, gluten-free dishes FOOD TIMES: Tues to Sat 12-2pm and 6-9.30pm; Sunday 12-4pm

The Hammer and Pincers’ own bread

HANDMADE BUTTER

As well as baking all its own bread, the Hammer and Pincers has now started making its own butter. The cream that provides the base is from Lubcloud Dairy, located five miles down the road in the Charnwood Forest.

P R AT E D

Starters

Chicken Liver Parfait, Gooseberry Chutney, Toasted Walnut Bread Breaded Crottin Goats’ Cheese, Red Onion Marmalade, Dressed Leav es

Mains

Fresh English Pea and Ham Hock Risotto, Pea Cress Salad Tart Fine, Roasted Vegetables, Goat s’ Cheese Fondant, Wild Rocket

Dessert

Chocolate and Peanut Butter Cheesecake, Chocolate Sorbet

£15 for three courses

A varied selection, all handmade

‘The team allows the local gems they’ve discovered to shine’ fussy but still interesting and loaded with taste. The kitchen also makes everything in-house – even the butter that comes with the Hammer and Pincers’ own bread.

TO

Set menu examples

I

t was once home to the village blacksmith but today the Hammer and Pincers in Wymeswold, Leicestershire, is where locally sourced ingredients are forged into delicious dishes. The local sourcing policy and kitchen work ethic here is top drawer, with owner and head chef Danny Jimminson investing time, money and effort to find the best ingredients grown within a stone’s throw of his oven. And it’s not just so the word ‘local’ can appear as a token gesture on the menus, either – at this restaurant there is a genuine belief in supporting the region’s community of highquality producers. And once sourced, his team lets the gems they’ve discovered shine, turning them into meals that aren’t overly

Restaurant

The restaurant itself is compact, relaxed and very friendly. There’s a small bar area – serving Blacksmith beer, brewed specially for the Hammer and Pincers’ by Belvoir Brewery, Old Dalby – and three dining rooms.

A contemporary feel prevails, with impressionist paintings on the wall, but the character of the old building has been cleverly retained.

A highlight of our lunchtime visit was a smooth chicken liver parfait with toasted raisin bread and a fabulously tangy gooseberry chutney.

And the honey-roast ham, fried Cotswold Legbar eggs and handcut chips with HP

sauce (HP in this case standing for Hammer and Pincers sauce – a very chunky piccalilli) was excellent. Our meal was accompanied by sparkling Swithland Spring Water from Bradgate Park, Leicestershire, and we finished with Chocolate Alchemy truffles, handmade in Loughborough. It was fantastic value, priced at £12.50 for two courses, or £15 for three. A la carte and a grazing menus are also available.

The Hammer and Pincers also has a nice outdoor dining area, including a children’s climbing frame. And further demonstrating the restaurant’s inclusive, friendly approach, it serves gluten-free pasta and breads, so those with wheat allergies can feel completely at home.

If you love the idea of eating locally sourced, well-cooked food, come here. Q CONTACT Hammer and Pincers, 5 East Road, Wymeswold, Leics, LE12 6ST, 01509 880735, hammerandpincers.co.uk

A nice mix of modern and ancient

Great Food Magazine 67

GREAT FOOD CLUB JOIN NOW – 100% FREE SAVE OVER £120 A YEAR STEP 1: Sign up – free STEP 2: Receive your

membership card STEP 3: Use your card to save money at the region’s best independent restaurants, delis and more Join – free – at www.greatfoodclub.co.uk. Alternatively, complete the form below and post it to Great Food Club, 7 Victoria St, Melton, Leics LE13 0AR. We will then send you one membership card, which you can use to save money at the best independent restaurants, pub, delis and more. We won’t share your details with anyone else.

YOUR DETAILS

See where you can use your membership card on p82

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A-Z of all current Great Food Club Offers...

BARNSDALE LODGE, Oakham: 10% OFF DINNER, excluding Sat – 01572 724678 BAT & BOTTLE (WINE), Oakham: 7 BOTTLES FOR 6 on Fri only – 01572 759735 BOBOLI, Kibworth Harcourt: 25% OFF LUNCH Mon-Fri and dinner Sun-Thur – 0116 2793303 BOUVERIE LODGE BISON FARM, Nether Broughton: TBC – 01664 822114 BRADY’S FISH & SEAFOOD MARKET, Leicester: 10% OFF FISH – 0116 3198363 CHOCOLATE ALCHEMY, Loughborough: 10% OFF CHOCOLATE WORKSHOPS – 01509 238113 THE COUNTRY VICTUALLER, Newark: 10% OFF phone orders – 01636 636465 THE CURRY LOUNGE, Nottingham: 2 MAINS FOR THE PRICE OF 1 – 0115 9418844 THE CROWN, Stamford: Have a starter and a main and get DESSERT FREE Mon-Thu – 01780 763136 DUNCAN MURRAY WINES, Market Harborough: 10% OFF on Thur – 01858 464935 ENTROPY, Leicester: 25% OFF lunch Mon-Fri – 0116 2259650 EVERARDS BREWERY SHOP, Leicester: 10% OFF ALL ITEMS – 0116 2014100 THE EXETER ARMS, Easton on the Hill: Have a starter and main and get DESSERT FREE Mon-Thu – 01780 740250 FIRENZE, Kibworth Beauchamp: 25% OFF LUNCH Tue-Sat and dinner Tue-Thur – 0116 2796260 FOSSE MEADOWS FARM, Lutterworth: 10% OFF free range chickens – 01455 202702 FLITTERISS PARK FARM, Oakham: 10% OFF locally reared meat – 01572 722266 GONALSTON FARM SHOP, Gonalston: 10% OFF on Tue and Wed – 0115 9665666 GOURMET SPICE CO., Weldon (online company): 10% OFF – www.tastespice.co.uk HAMBLETON BAKERY, Exton, Oakham, Stamford: FREE jute bag or loaf when you spend over £10 – 01572 812995 HAMBLETON HALL, Hambleton: Free glass of champagne with dinner for two, or room upgrade subject to availability – 01572 756991 HAMMER & PINCERS, Wymeswold: 20% OFF a la carte menu – 01509 880735 HARTINGTONS SCHOOL OF FOOD, Bakewell: 10% OFF ALL COURSES – 01629 888586 HART’S OF NOTTINGHAM: 10% OFF a la carte menu Mon-Fri – 0115 9881900 HOTEL MAIYANGO, Leicester: 3 COURSES FOR THE PRICE OF 2 and a complementary welcome drink, MonThur only, or free glass of wine at lunch – 0116 2518898 THE JACKSON STOPS, Stretton: 10% OFF food Tue-Fri and Sat lunch – 01780 410237 JOHNNY PUSZTAI at JT Beedhams, Sherwood: FREE LB OF SAUSAGES on first visit only – 0115 960590 THE KING’S ARMS AT WING: 15% OFF Mon-Fri, 12-2pm – 01572 737634 LAKE ISLE, Uppingham: 3 COURSES FOR THE PRICE OF 2 – 01572 822951 LANGAR HALL, Langar: FREE GLASS OF WINE per diner for up to six people per card – 01949 860559 THE MARTIN’S ARMS, Colston Bassett: 10% OFF food at any time – 01949 81361 THE MELTON CHEESEBOARD, Melton Mowbray: 15% OFF – 01664 562257 THE OLIVE BRANCH, Clipsham: FREE ROUND OF COUNTRY COCKTAILS – 01780 410355 OTTERS SMOKEHOUSE & DELI, Oakham: 10% OFF cheese and meats – 01572 756481 PERKINS RESTAURANT, Plumtree: 10% OFF a la carte menu Mon-Fri – 0115 9373695 PICKLED VILLAGE, Bulwick: 4 JARS FOR THE PRICE OF 3 – 01780 450774 REDHILL FARM FREE RANGE PORK, Gainsborough: 10% OFF at farm shop/markets – 01427 628270 THE RED LION at East Haddon: 10% OFF food – 01604 770223 THE RED LION at Stathern: 10% OFF food – 01949 860868 RIVERFORD, Sacrewell: 10% OFF your first four phone orders – 01780 789700 RSC’S ROOFTOP RESTAURANT, Stratford-upon-Avon: 10% OFF evening dining – 01789 403449 THE THREE HORSESHOES, Breedon: 10% OFF Mon-Fri – 01332 695129 UP TO THE TOLLEMACHE ARMS, Buckminster: 10% OFF FOOD – 01476 860477 SCHOOL OF ARTISAN FOOD, Welbeck: 10% OFF COURSES – 01909 532171 SIMPLY SIMON’S DELI, Market Harborough: 10% OFF Mon-Thur – 01858 440964 OFF SHIRES COOKERY SCHOOL, East Haddon: 10% OFF day courses – 01604 621640 STAPLEFORD PARK, near Melton Mowbray: 10% OFF food Sun-Thur – 01572 787000 TORI & BEN’S FARM, Diseworth: 10% OFF locally reared meat – 07884 112812 THE WHITE HART, Ufford: Have a starter and a main and get DESSERT FREE Mon-Thu – 01780 740250 YE OLDE PORK PIE SHOPPE, Melton Mowbray: £5 OFF Great Food Club hamper – 01664 482068

25%

Great Food Magazine 69

LOCAL RESTAURANTS Menu samples Starter

Jackson Stops, Stretton

CUISINE: British/European PRICE PER HEAD: £25-£40 for three courses and drinks KIDS WELCOME: Yes DOGS: Not indoors, but there’s plenty of outdoor space CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Yes FOOD TIMES: Tue-Sat 12-2.30pm and 6-9.30pm; Sun 12-2.30pm

S

et in the Rutland countryside not far – but far enough – from the A1, Stretton is an attractive village, with the Jackson Stops – a beautiful thatched pub – at its heart. It is owned by Robert and Julia Reid, who are clearly passionate about their very welcoming country inn. Not having visited this pub for

over 20 years, I didn’t know what to expect, but I was pleasantly surprised. The inn has clearly been substantially improved over the years and after being warmly greeted at the bar, we were ushered into a cosy beamed dining area containing an old baker’s oven and fireplace. The pub has a friendly feel and we struck up a conversation with a couple who were clearly very enthusiastic about the Jackson Stops experience.

On the website, the inn is described as serving fabulous food and that is no exaggeration! The commitment to absolute quality, both in surroundings and fare, soon became apparent. The wine list is extensive and carefully constructed. Robert is clearly knowledgeable about his wines and sources most from Bibendum. We were recommended to try a New Zealand Sauvignon at £19.95.

For starters, I chose smoked salmon with caper dressing and dressed leaves, and my wife a saladette of watercress, rocket and peaches with Parma ham and dressing. As soon as the dishes arrived, we knew we were in for a treat. My second course was braised belly of Grasmere pork with apple, cabbage and red onion compote, and Jane chose a sirloin steak garnished with tomato and

Old White Hart, Lyddington

As good as it looks

CUISINE: British/European PRICE PER HEAD: £25-£35 for three courses and drinks KIDS WELCOME: Yes DOGS: Not indoors, but there’s plenty of outdoor space CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Yes FOOD TIMES: Mon-Sat 12-2pm and 6.30-9pm; Sun 12-2.30pm and 6.30-9pm

T

here can be few villages in the whole of Britain more idyllic than Lyddington near Uppingham in Rutland. Its large village green is surrounded by exquisite old sandstone buildings and a feeling of unspoilt serenity hangs in the air. Could the Old White Hart possibly live up to the beautiful surroundings?

Happily, the answer is a resounding yes.

70 Great Food Magazine

This is a truly stunning country pub, both inside and out. I booked early on an August Saturday morning for lunch for our party of eight (plus two dogs). Furry creatures are not allowed inside so we asked for a table in the garden. On arrival, our four-legged friends were made welcome with a water bowl, and we took our places at an impressively large and grand table in the delightful garden.

Service didn’t arrive immediately and we had to forage for our own menus, but we really didn’t care – the sun was shining and the surroundings were sublime.

Inside, the White Hart is a joy, with tiled floors, exposed brickwork and a general air of pub cosiness, but with plenty of style. On our visit, the service from the bar was polite and efficient. On pump were local beers from Northamptonshire’s Nene Valley Brewery and Great Oakley Brewery, which is always a good sign. I admit I tend to judge freehouses these days on whether they make the effort to source good local beers.

Once we’d sat and got ourselves sorted, our orders were taken swiftly by a happy and efficient waitress, and food arrived in good time. The White Hart pork and sage sausages on wholegrain mustard mash were very tasty although possibly a tiny bit greasy if I were wearing my hyper-critical hat. The rare-breed

Gorgonzola and Walnut Tortellini with Leek Purée

Mains

Trio of Local Lamb, Chateau Potatoes, Red Wine Jus Pan-seared Seabass on Prawn and Pea Shoot Risotto, Beurre Blanc Sauce

Dessert

Rhubarb Pannacotta with Almond Crumble

Three courses: £23.50

mushroom. We both finished with raspberry crème brulee, which was delicious and served with two or three well prepared surprises.

The total cost including wine was £74, which we thought was exceptional value.

The pub’s restaurant caters for 56 people and sometimes more if there is a party.

There is one idiosyncratic aspect to the Jackson Stops as it is the home of the National Nurdling Championships. This is a game where 13 old pennies are tossed into a hole drilled in the seat of an ancient oak settle. Sounds great fun!

EZ JACKSON STOPS Rookery Lane, Stretton, Rutland LE15 7RA, 01780 410237, www.thejacksonstops.com

Menu samples Starter

Fresh Norfolk Crab with Applewood Smoked Salmon, Cherry Tomatoes, £7.50

Mains

Rack of Lamb, Black Pudding, Dauphinoise Potatoes, £19.95 Boneless Quail, Individual Rabbit Pie, English Leeks, Potatoes of the Day, £16.95

Dessert

Dark Chocolate Creme Brulee, Raspberries, £6.95

pork loin with Mediterranean vegetable stew and potatoes of the day was described by my wife as excellent. After eating and enjoying coffee with some superb complementary petit fours, we lounged about in the sunny garden for hours, soaking up the White Hart’s beautiful atmosphere and setting. We didn’t play pétanque on the pub’s numerous courts but will undoubtedly return for a game and to investigate the a la carte menu more extensively.

MW THE OLD WHITE HART 51 Main Street, Lyddington, Oakham, Rutland LE15 9LR, 01572 821703, www.oldwhitehart.co.uk

Where to eat

THE MYSTERY MUNCHER

Shaven-headed men are taking over the world The Mystery Muncher enjoys bald brilliance in Nottingham

J

ust occasionally, the Mystery Muncher wonders whether years spent massaging Tru-Gel into his luxuriant locks was worthwhile when sports stars, interesting villains and famous chefs seem to think that shaven-headedness is next to manliness.

Sat Bains has the chunky build of an exrugby player and a head that reminds you of a shaven piece of rock, so he certainly looks the part, but the bald facts about his approach to food are what I was determined to find out about – even if it meant wearing a bald wig.

Two Michelin stars do not come easily, especially in the East Midlands, so I expected Sat Bains’ background to be full of Rouxs, Blancs or Ramsays but when I talked to him he was modest about the way he started.

He said he only went to catering college to meet girls and claimed to be virtually selftaught since. This slightly underplays his background, which includes cooking in one of my favourite eating pubs and at a number of other quietly impressive establishments before he set up Sat Bains in Nottingham in 2005. He was also a 2007 winner of TV’s Great British Menu where his egg, ham and pea starter got three perfect 10s.

If you like restaurants that don’t conform to many of the norms and enjoy startlingly different food then this could be the place for you, but don’t expect it to be anywhere obvious. Sat Bains is on the edge of an industrial estate in Nottingham and you really need to follow your sat nav because you go under flyovers and down cinder tracks before you find it. Even then, you’ll be uncertain because it’s a building that looks more functional than beautiful. Don’t give up, it’s worth the effort.

The food is extraordinary and you’ll find that the tasting menu feels like the only choice an honourable man or woman can make.

The Mystery Muncher looked at his wallet of cloned cards and decided to go for it. Now

The best restaurant in the Midlands?

for the financial health warning: Sat Bains told me that most of his regulars only came once or twice a year and were not corporate clients. In my opinion this is because even bloated bankers or council chiefs would be embarrassed claiming this size of bill on their business expenses, so only retired bankers and worldwide foodies should apply.

I went for the full wine and food tasting menu – seven courses, seven wines and Sat Bains’ famous attitude towards balancing salt, sweet, sour, bitter and umami, which sounds pretentious until you try it. Those of you who know what umami is probably don’t need to read this column and those who don’t should read my Wikipedia entry.

I started with langoustine and a 2009 Savennières, followed by Cornish crab with a Hungarian tokaji, then salt-baked celeriac and 2008 Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva, concluding with Waldorf Salad and a 2009 Languedoc. For main course (one of the few with a choice) I went for braised mutton with a good 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin. My fellow indulgent went for fallow deer with an even better 2008 Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Desserts included chocolate with a fine sherry and various other delicacies but as

Sat Bains – one cracking chef

I describe this food I’m aware of just how inadequate my descriptions are. Nothing in these few words gives the reader a true impression of quite how much Sat Bains plays with your senses. One course sums this up – sticky toffee pudding, which you may have seen on the odd menu or five. Believe me, you’ve never tasted one like this: it was small, light as a feather, and had some intense tastes, just one of which was toffee. It was served with a sparkling Japanese saki.

Listen readers, the Mystery Muncher was Fat Ducked when Heston was at his height, but Sat Bains takes experimental cooking chemistry to a totally different level. The food deserves every Michelin Star it gets.

Shave your head or sell your hair to a wig-maker, follow the strange path to Sat Bains and become part of the best food experiment in the Midlands. Q CONTACT Restaurant Sat Bains, Lenton Lane, Nottingham NG7 2SA, 0115 9866566, www.restaurantsatbains.com

Great Food Magazine 71

WHERE TO EAT

D

EAT FOO GR

Watson Fothergills, Nottingham Enjoy local food and beer in front of Robin Hood SPECIALITIES: Local ales; sharing dishes OPENING TIMES: Sunday to Thursday 12 - 12; Friday and Saturday 12 - 1

W

atson Fothergills has one of the most iconic views in Nottingham, situated directly opposite the famous Robin Hood statue, nestling just below the castle walls.

Couple this with the fact it is in a building designed by the city’s most famous architect, Watson Fothergill, and it’s safe to say this is a venue steeped in heritage.

The building dates back to 1883, but tenants have not always stayed true to its roots. The Ever So Sensible group took over the leasehold at the end of last year, conducting a full refit to take the building

Bare bricks and wooden beams dominate the upstairs dining room

72 Great Food Magazine

PR

OFILE

An historic venue

Menu examples Starters

Homemade Seasonal Soup serve d with Crusty Bread and Butter Crispy Whitebait with Crusty Brea d, Mixed Leaves and a Rustic Tarta r Sauce

Mains

Slow Roast Belly Pork with Haric ot Beans Slow Cooked in Rosé Wine Pan-Fried Red Mullet with Roasted Vegetables, Sautéed Potatoes and Pesto

Dessert

New York-Style Cheesecake

£10.90 for one course, £13.90 for two or £17.90 for three

“The bar is Nottingham through and through, stocked with an impressive number of ales from local micro-breweries” back to its former glory. The Ever So Sensible group is certainly no stranger to the area, owning The Castle pub just two doors away, as well as a number of other successful bars and restaurants across the East Midlands.

When the takeover was announced, the group’s managing director Chris Bulaitis said he was aiming for a ”traditional and timeless interior that respects the building’s past”.

They’ve made a good stab at it, and the ground floor is a warren of cosy little seating areas, featuring a selection of antique chairs and comfortable Chesterfield sofas.

Fothergills has a stripped-back feel that shows off the beauty of the building. There is also an impressive folding window that opens out directly onto a sizeable outdoor area, overlooked by Robin Hood himself.

Restaurant

The bar is also ‘Nottingham’ through and through, stocked with an impressive number of ales from local micro-breweries, including Castle Rock, Blue Monkey and Springhead.

There is also a unique international offering, with Fothergills being among a handful of places to sell San Francisco’s famous Anchor Steam beer on draught.

The wine list is equally impressive and has obviously been carefully selected. General manager Matt Derwent is happy to help when it comes to wine recommendations, which leads us nicely to the food...

Fothergills menu is varied and described as ‘international bistro-style food’. The focus is on fixed-price dining, with a two-course lunch available for £9.90. A sandwich and snack menu is also available, with an emphasis on

Tasteful Charlotte decorated, Falkingham and there’s witha holiday Sarah apartment Lyon and Janet upstairs, ?????? too

Local beers galore

‘sharers’, which fits the venue well as it is designed to be somewhere to spend a relaxed afternoon catching up with friends.

In the evening, diners can enjoy a stylish upstairs dining area. The evening menu is slightly more upmarket, but again works on a fixed-price basis, with three courses available for £17.90. You may feel the food has moved slightly away from the Nottingham vibe, but it is heartening to know that Fothergills uses a wide selection of suppliers from across the county and neighbouring Derbyshire, with fresh ingredients being delivered daily. Q CONTACT Fothergills, 5-7 Castle Road, Nottingham, NG1 6AA 0115 9588195, www.fothergillsnottingham.com

Lots of sharing dishes to choose from at lunchtime Sarah Lyon and Janet ??????

Restaurant profile Menu examples

Traditional Fried Street Food Sharp styling, with light shades that look like jellyfish

Baccala (salt cod and potato croquettes, smoked garlic), £3.60

Carpaccio, Tartare and Salads Carpaccio of Angus Beef with Parmesan and Rocket, £6.50

Pasta and Al Forno

Spaghettini with Prawns and Italia n Wild Asparagus, Garlic, Chilli, £6.5 0

Pizza

Pizza Basilicata with Spicy Sausage, Chilli, Tomato and Mozzarella, £5.25

Carne

Agnello Osso Bucco, £6.50

Fumo, Birmingham

City centre restaurant that delivers Italian ‘tapas’ in style SPECIALITIES: Cicchetti (Venetian tapas), cocktails, fresh seafood FOOD TIMES: Monday to Sunday, 11.30am – 11pm

A good spot for a Brummy bellini

F

Restaurant

Head chef Filippo Pagani

‘It’s hard not to enjoy the pure urbane slickness of Fumo’

There’s style aplenty, but what of the food? Fumo serves small dishes of Venetian ‘tapas’ called cicchetti (pronounced chi-kettee), priced at around £4-£6 each. Examples include Gnocchi Gorgonzola, Fried Soft-Shell Crab (within a section of the menu called THE CICCHETTI MENU

Fumo serves daily specials but its core menu is divided into seven sections. These include ‘Traditional Street Food’, ‘Carpaccio, Tartare and Salads’ (for lovers of raw food), ‘Pasta and Al Forno’, ‘Pizza’, ‘Carne’, ‘Pesce’ (do try the delicious Halibut with Samphire, Tomato and Chilli), and finally ‘Vegetali’.

lamb dish that he slow-bakes EAT FOO with hay, giving it an GR intriguing, earthy taste.

We sampled a number of dishes from Fumo’s long and varied menu – with a PR OFILE drop of crisp Pinot Grigio Santa Margherita – and found them to be moreish and delicious. There was nothing that completely blew our tastebuds but we had an excellent lunch, with highlights including the Ravioli Seabass and Sicilian Arancini (fried rice balls filled with meat ragu). The service was professional and attentive throughout our lunch, as you’d expect on launch weekend.

Italian tapas – or cicchetti – really does work fantastically well, and Fumo delivers it with skill and more than a little style. Even if you love nothing more than settling back in a comfy old seat in a country pub, it’s hard not to enjoy the pure urbane slickness of dining – or simply enjoying a cocktail – at Fumo.

Cicchetti is sociable, fun and tasty, and Fumo is a great place to try it. It’s a fine addition to Birmingham and no doubt city workers will embrace it with open arms. But if you really want to feel part of the action, don’t forget your shades and Armani suit. Q

D

umo brings to mind Armani suits – possibly even white ones – plus sunglasses and Ferraris. A slick team of waiters serve olives, crostinis and a choice of 50 cocktails across a sweeping, marbletopped bar. Diners tuck into food under designer light shades that look strangely like jellyfish. Even the Dyson Airblade handdryers in the loos match the colour scheme.

The place drips with modern Italian style.

Fumo is the latest offering from awardwinning Italian family business San Carlo Group, which has restaurants in several English cities, including Leicester. Fumo opened in June 2012, after a £2.5 million investment, and calls itself a ‘new concept cocktail bar, restaurant and late lounge’.

‘Traditional Fried Street Food’) and Chicken Wrapped in Parma Ham on a Rosemary Skewer. A quick chat with softly-spoken head chef Filippo Pagani, who comes from Venice, revealed that cicchetti is traditional to his home region. Filippo was also keen to show off the fresh ingredients that he was cooking with and dived off into the kitchen, quickly returning with crates of fresh tomatoes and cannellini beans. “Throughout summer we’ve been importing seasonal ingredients from Milanese markets,” he said.

“Each day we serve specials that reflect regional dishes from all around Italy and the islands.” Clearly loving his new job, Filippo enthused about the menu, particularly a

CONTACT Fumo, 1 Waterloo Street, Birmingham B2 5PG, 0121 6438979, www.sancarlofumo.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 73

WHERE TO EAT

Can you resist the display of homemade cakes?

Just a small selection of what’s on sale here

The Garden Barn, Cotesbach A truly individual family-run gift emporium with a delightful café

SPECIALITIES: Coffee, cakes, soups, paninis OPENING TIMES: Tues to Sat 9.30am 5.30pm; Sun 11-4pm

T

he Garden Barn is a huge emporium of gifts and objets d’art – with a very fine cake counter to boot – situated a couple of miles south of Lutterworth, where the counties of Leicestershire, Warwickshire and Northamptonshire collide. The ‘garden’ part of its name is slightly misleading, because although there’s plenty of stuff on sale here for outdoor spaces, this shop-cum-café is nothing like your average garden centre.

typewriters. If it’s interesting and would look good in your home, it’s on sale here.

On our visit, gentle jazz plays in the background as we settle down for a quick snack and chat with David before taking these photos. “The Garden Barn is on the site of Town End Farm and came about through farm diversification,” says David. “Mum and dad moved here in 1963 as dairy farmers. When I was a little boy, mum started selling chimney pots in this building as a way of bringing in extra income. The shop grew from there. In 2002 I started to dabble with the business and that’s when it went a little crazy because

‘The shop is stuffed to the gunnels with a bewildering selection of items, from sculptured statues to old typewriters’

“We put the café in around two years ago and it’s been a really good move,” says David. “We’ve tried to keep it simple as we’re a shop first and foremost. In winter we offer homemade soup every day, and we’ve just started doing paninis, too. And after listening to customer feedback, we’re about to serve teacakes and hot toast.”

During our visit we ordered a panini of Parma ham, goats’ cheese and rocket with homemade coleslaw (pictured below). It was simple but top quality and had obviously been made with care and good ingredients.

Next on David’s Garden Barn to-do list is a series of pop-up restaurants.

D

Instead, it’s a bit like a unique department I’m a bit of a junkaholic and love to track store where you can lose yourself for hours down random bits and bobs.” David clearly browsing a fantastical array of items, then has an artistic streak too, because most of settle down for top-quality coffee, panini and what’s on sale is aesthetically pleasing. “We cake in its cute cafe, before losing exhibit talented local artists’ work as well yourself for hours all over again. as a broad selection of affordable AT FOO RE The Garden Barn is owned by prints and canvases,” he says.

G the Prosser family and main man The Garden Barn used to be a cow Cafe/emporium shed and milking parlour but today David Prosser takes great pleasure in stuffing his shop to you wouldn’t know it. It’s clean and the gunnels with a bewildering beautifully looked after, offering a PR OFILE selection of items, from sculptured joyous touch of organised chaos. “The statues to vintage signs to old walls were once covered in cow muck.

FOOD AT THE GARDEN BARN

We had to scrub it off and paint them,” says David. The dairy farm no longer exists but the Prossers still work together on the family business, which has 10 staff. “My sister bakes a lot of the cakes we sell here,” says David.

As far as farm diversifications go, The Garden Barn is unusual, but it’s an excellent example of a thriving, individual, independent business. If you’re ever stuck for a birthday gift, you will undoubtedly find something here. And you’ll get some simple but lovingly prepared homemade food to sustain your browsing at the same time. Q CONTACT

Left: Garden Barn director (and curator) David Prosser makes coffee. Just a few years ago he was scrubbing cow muck off his shop’s walls. Right: A couple enjoy a drink on the stunning patio.

74 Great Food Magazine

The Garden Barn, Cotesbach, Leics LE17 4HS, 01455 552782, www.gardenbarn.co.uk

Reviews Menu samples Starters

Summer pea veloute, flaked ham hock Ballotine of rabbit, chicken and apricot mousseline

Opus, Birmingham CUISINE: Modern British PRICES: Set menu (three courses with glass of house wine and coffee) £24.50; a la carte from £35 per head KIDS WELCOME: Yes DOGS: No CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: No FOOD TIMES: Mon to Fri 12-2.30pm, 6-9.30pm; Sat 6-9.30pm. Closed Sunday

Pork osso bucco, heritage potatoes and summer veg Wild salmon fillet, potatoes, capers, broad beans

Dessert

Strawberry Eton Mess Three courses: £24.50

T

he dictionary definition of Opus is “a creative, artistic work” – an apt name for this contemporary culinary cauldron in Birmingham’s business area.

When we first stepped into the large, airy dining room, we were met with crisp linen tablecloths and precise table settings. But this is no stuffy gastronomic throwback: the huge windows that look out onto a vibrant Birmingham street; the vivacious maitre ‘d; the bustling hubbub of Friday chatter – all make for a far from pretentious atmosphere.

The menu is small but varied. Main courses are priced between £8.50 for the smoked haddock and Lincolnshire leek fishcakes, and £20 for the fillet of brill with Devon mussels.

We went for the Market Menu, which offers three courses, a glass of house wine and

Mains

Inside Opus

coffee for £24.50. It’s available for lunch or dinner. For starters, I had the ham hock and potato roulade – wholesome and hearty, tasty and tangy. Hubbie went for the warm Carlingford rock oysters with blood orange, which came in a crispy breadcrumb coat: perfectly cooked and mouthwatering.

The main course came soon after – too soon for us, on our lazy afternoon, but just

right for the city workers. My fillet of black bream with wilted greens and caviar cream was delicious; Rob’s slowbraised collar of pork with buttered cabbage was melt-in-the-mouth perfect – as was the smooth fondant potato. The only disappointment was dessert – a slightly bland ginger cheesecake was rescued by delicious homemade prune ice cream; the rustic rhubarb crumble was tasty, but lukewarm.

But to focus on these would be unfair – the food is creative and beautifully presented; the atmosphere is endearing and friendly; the staff are attentive and full of personality. RCD OPUS 54 Cornwall Street, Birmingham B3 2DE, 0121 2002323, www.opusrestaurant.co.uk

The Sanctuary, Upper Saxondale CUISINE: British/European PRICE PER HEAD: £25-£30 for three courses and drinks KIDS WELCOME: Yes DOGS: Not indoors, but there’s plenty of outdoor space CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Yes FOOD TIMES: Tue to Thur 5-9.45pm; Fri to Sat 12-3pm, 5-9.45pm; Sun 12-4pm

W

ith monster roadworks accompanying the upgrading of the nearby A46 at the time of writing, The Sanctuary can prove a little hard to find. But it’s worth the effort.

This stylish bar/restaurant is located within a former Victorian asylum in the leafy village of Upper Saxondale. Late last year it was relaunched by Kerry Mathie, well known through her work running the Notts and Leicestershire & Rutland restaurant awards. In an earlier life she ran restaurants for Anthony Worrall Thompson, so you’d hope she’d know what she’s doing.

Sure enough, the venue pulls off the trick of being slick and stylish but friendly and welcoming. Cool greys, interesting artwork and dramatic chandeliers set the tone, but this is also a place where you can watch the football with a pint of Harvest Pale and a pork pie in a side room.

Menu samples Starter

Asparagus and poached egg on toast, £6

Mains

Pan-fried hake, bacon, baby onions, peas, little gem, £13 Tomato, olive tapenade goats’ cheese tart, £9.50 Longhorn steak, fat chips, landcress salad, £14 The Sanctuary used to be an asylum

The brief to the kitchen is modern brasserie food and on the evidence of our visit you get classy versions of classics.

A Stilton mousse was light and airy and intelligently paired with hazelnuts – giving crunch – and roasted figs – adding sweetness.

Grilled chicken caesar salad avoided all-toocommon blandness with punchy flavours from anchovies, roasted garlic and copious amounts of good quality parmesan. They’ve found a local supplier of dry-aged Longhorn steaks in the shape of Hardwick Park Farm, and our 8oz sirloin was excellent. Everything else on the platter was equally good – wonderful handcut chips, beautifully grilled field mushroom, mildly peppery landcress and well-balanced peppercorn sauce. A lamb pie from the specials board impressed with rich,

Dessert

Pistachio nut brownie and honeycomb ice-cream, £5

buttery pastry. A dessert of strawberry and champagne parfait with poached berries from down the road in Southwell could have done with a few minutes longer out the freezer but the flavours were great, enhanced by a few drops of a rich, white chocolate sauce. High standards in the kitchen are linked to a classy front of house operation. The Sanctuary is a remarkable local but, especially with the roadworks drawing to a close, it deserves to draw in a wider clientele too.

TB THE SANCTUARY Westminster Drive, Upper Saxondale, Notts NG12 2NL, 0115 9334500, www.thesanctuaryrestaurant.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 75

Top wedding venues Some of the Midlands’ most individual wedding venues, where good food and drink is a top priority

4

Bakewell

Mat

Ashbourne

Burton

Staffs These are some of the region’s most interesting and food-focused wedding venues.

If you’d like us to list your venue here, please contact Dawn Kenton on 07429 193781 1 Barnsdale Lodge Hotel

The Avenue, Exton, Oakham, Rutland LE15 8AH, 01572 724678, www.barnsdalelodge.co.uk

2 Doddington Hall & Gardens

Doddington, Lincoln LN6 4RU, 01522 812501, justine@doddingtonhall.com, www.doddingtonhall.com

3 The Exeter Arms

7 Kilworth House Hotel

Lutterworth Road, North Kilworth, Leicestershire LE17 6JE, 01858 880058, www.kilworthhouse.co.uk

8 Kelmarsh Hall & Gardens

Kelmarsh, Northampton, NN6 9LY, weddings@kelmarsh.com 01604 686543, www.kelmarsh.com

9 Langar Hall

21 Stamford Road, Easton on the Hill, Stamford, Lincolnshire PE9 3NS, 01780 756321, www.theexeterarms.net

Langar, Nottinghamshire NG13 9HG, 01949 860559, www.langarhall.com

4 Fischer’s at Baslow Hall Calver Road, Baslow, Derbyshire, DE45 1RR, 01246 583259, www.fischers-baslowhall.co.uk

13-21 St Nicholas Place, Leicester LE1 4LD, 0116 2518898, www.maiyango.com

5 Hambleton Hall Hambleton, Oakham, Rutland LE15 8TH, 01572 756991, www.hambletonhall.com

Stapleford, near Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire, LE14 2EF, 01572 787000, www.staplefordpark.com

6 Hart’s Hotel Standard Hill, Park Row, Nottingham, NG1 6GN, 0115 9881900, www.hartsnottingham.co.uk

Long Whatton, Leicestershire LE12 5BG, 01509 270202 enquiries@whattonhouseandgardens.co.uk, www.whattonhouseandgardens.co.uk

76 Great Food Magazine

Lichfield

10 Hotel Maiyango

11 Stapleford Park Hotel

12 Whatton House and Gardens

Birmingham Solihull

Wa

Advertisement feature

Welbeck Ollerton

Matlock

Mansfield

2

Newark

Derbyshire Nottingham

Lincoln

Notts

Sleaford

Lincs

6 9

Derby

Grantham

12

Leics

Melton 11

Rutland

Oakham Leicester

1

Stamford 5 3

10

Peterboroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Stilton

Market Harborough

Warwicks

Corby

7

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8

Coventry Leamington Warwick

Rugby

Oundle

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Northants Northampton

Map by Graham Wright

Great Food Magazine 77

WEDDING FOOD

Wedding

ARTISANS

Two food pros who can spice up any reception THE MOBILE WOODFIRED OVEN PIZZA CRAFTER

H

ow many weddings have you been to where the evening food consists of a buffet left out on a table to be picked over by swaying, glassy-eyed uncles? As good as this is – and engaged couples should be aware that it’s impossible to escape the latter – you may want something a little different. Leicestershirebased Hotrocks Woodfired Pizza neatly sidesteps the norm with its mobile pizza oven.

Chef Jack Harrison from Nether Broughton, Leicestershire will rock up to your reception with his large clay oven – neatly installed in a beautifully converted horse trailer – and fire out delicious thin-crust pizzas for all and sundry, including drunk uncles and over-emotional aunts.

It’s the al fresco theatre of Hotrocks’ mobile woodfired oven that really captures brides’ and

grooms’ imaginations, plus the relaxed nature of eating pizzas communally with the whiff of woodsmoke in the background.

“Guests can see the dough being rolled,” says Jack. “And then the pizzas are tossed into the fiery depths to emerge seconds later.” He’s not wrong on the cooking times – with oven temperatures of 400°C, his Neapolitan-style pizzas cook in 90 seconds. Jack can also bring a range of salads to the party, including Thai, Greek and Caesar.

He uses biodegradable plates and cutlery, and the wood that fires his oven is carbon neutral.

Hotrocks regularly visits festivals such as Glastonbury and Bestival, so can cope with all sorts of British weather.

CONTACT: 07971 810777, jack100harrison@aol.com, www.hotrockspizza.co.uk

Jack Harrison cooking pizza at the East Midlands Food and Drink Festival

f you want the ultimate wedding cake, you need to get in touch with Fiona Cairns from Fleckney, Leicestershire – the lady who made William and Kate’s royal wedding cake. This career-defining commission is a

78 Great Food Magazine

gargantuan cherry on top of more than 25 years work.

Fiona formed her baking business in the 1980s after cooking a batch of miniature Christmas cakes for friends.

Husband Kishore Patel suggested she market her creations, and since then the company has grown from kitchen table to successful bakery making close to a million handmade and hand-decorated cakes a year.

Trained as both a graphic designer and a pastry chef, Fiona’s background gives her a unique set of tools that allow her to forge jaw-dropping creations, as these pictures – taken by Robert Leveritt - show.

She says: “Being commissioned to make the royal

Found a great caterer or brilliant wedding venue?

Tell us about them by emailing editorial@ greatfoodmag. co.uk

Hotrocks’ mobile woodfired oven – a converted horse trailer

THE MASTER CAKE MAKER

I

WEDDING STARS

Stunning detailing. Just don’t pour hot water into it

wedding cake was a fantastic honour for the company. Our profile has certainly been raised, and we have been given the opportunity to work on many exciting projects. There’s a TV project to come this autumn.”

In June 2012 the company launched an online shop, where

you can buy a range of cakes and have them delivered fresh from the bakery. The site also sells gifts plus Fiona’s books, Bake and Decorate (2010), and The Birthday Cake Book (2011).

CONTACT: 8 Churchill Way, Fleckney, Leics, 0116 2402888, www.fionacairns.com

H O T E L

&

T H E A T R E

7+( 3(5)(&7 3/$&( (;&/86,9(/< <2856 Kilworth House is set within thirty-eight acres of stunning Leicestershire countryside.

We pride ourselves on our attention to detail and offer a unique experience.

We want every Bride and Groom to feel extremely welcome and enjoy the food, service and ambience that we have created.

@KilworthHouse - for Hotel news and events

Kilworth House Hotel - for Hotel news and events

N ZUDSSHG LQ HUYHG ZLWK D QJ DQG $SSOH R\ &DEEDJH LVSV Â&#x2026;

Great Food Club Members Exclusive Thursdays Offer

The Fox and Hounds is a delightful, bustling, public house serving real ales, tasty, traditional English and Italian inspired foods and with the added benefit of four comfortable guest bedrooms with views of the village green or walled garden.

Open 7 days a week for drinks, lunches and dinner.

Serving food from midday until 9pm on Saturday and Sundays.

10% OFF Your award-winning wine merchant offers all Great Food Club Members an exclusive Thursday offer.

During September and October 2012, all Club Members will receive

10% off all wines, beers and spirits*

every Thursday when you show your Club Card in store.

/HPRQ 7DUW SEHUU\ 6RUEHW

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co.uk k

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TEL 01858 880058 FAX 01858 880349 EMAIL info@kilworthhouse.co.uk

W 6WUDZEHUU\ EHUU\ 6RUEHW EHUULHV DQG UHDP

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LUTTERWORTH ROAD NORTH KILWORTH LEICESTERSHIRE LE17 6JE

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For further details please visit our website: www.kilworthhouse.co.uk Kilworth House Theatre - for latest Theatre news and events

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You will be amazed by our informal and friendly approach to assist with the planning of your perfect bespoke wedding.

19 The Green, Exton, Rutland LE15 8AP Email: info@foxandhoundsrutland.co.uk Tel 01572 812403

www.foxandhoundsrutland.co.uk

10 Adam & Eve Street, Market Harborough, Leicestershire, LE16 7LT Tel: 01858 464935 www.duncanmurraywines.co.uk *Excludes credit card purchases. Not for use in conjunction with any other offer. Terms & conditions apply.

Wines, beers and spirits with personality

COMPETITION

CREATE THE PERFECT ENGLISH COUNTRY PUB Help breathe new life into a real local village pub – fill in the online questionnaire and you could also win a meal for two

A

friend of Great Food contributor The Mystery Muncher (see page 71) has contacted this magazine to ask for your help. The Muncher’s mate – who has a solid grounding in managing accomplished establishments such as Hotel Du Vin – has bought a derelict country pub in the fine old village of Sutton Cheney, west Leicestershire. His aim is to transform it into the perfect rural eating pub.

This is where you, dear reader and pub enthusiast, can help. The new proprietor wants your opinions on what makes a great English country dining pub.

He would like to listen to your feedback and use it to inform the design and concept of his new hostelry.

Please go to www.greatfoodmag.co.uk and answer the questions below. Everyone who fills in the online questionnaire will be entered into a competition to win a meal for two, including a bottle of wine, at the rejuvenated pub.

How the Hercules Revived at Sutton Cheney might look with its new signage

The Hercules Revived in Sutton Cheney opens in November 2012 so we’ll reveal how your suggestions have been incorporated into the pub in future issues.

The Mystery Muncher says: “If, like me, you believe that country pubs are what make England great, then please help by answering these questions.”

WHAT ATMOSPHERE DO YOU PREFER (CHOOSE ONE)?

1. Traditional heritage pub with horse brasses, open fire and eating separate from the real drinkers.

2. Country house approach with leather sofas, big chairs and low tables. No bar but table service for everything from great beers to vintage wines.

3. Stripped wood, solid floors and minimalist furniture with eating on functional but stylish tables and chairs.

WIN A MEA L FOR TWO

WHAT SORT OF FOOD WOULD YOU LIKE (CHOOSE ONE)?

1. Simple pub grub like pies, steaks and fish and chips – but done very well.

2. Specialised single cuisine like Thai, Indonesian or tapas at a price level of about £15 per head.

3. Mixture of French, Italian and classical dishes served on white tablecloths at a price of around £40 per head for three courses.

4. Quirky, experimental dishes of the Fat Duck style.

5. Daily specials such as pies on Monday, fish on Friday etc with discounts for shared tables.

Your help could help to create a fantastic country eating pub.

Fill in the online questionnaire and we will let you know what is happening at the Hercules Revived in the next issue, as well as announce the winner’s name.

ANSWER THE QUESTIONS AT WWW.GREATFOODMAG.CO.UK. THE WINNER WILL BE DRAWN ON OCTOBER 31, 2012. FULL TERMS AND CONDITIONS ARE ON THE WEBSITE 80 Great Food Magazine

NEXT ISSUE Coming up in the next issue of Great Food magazine

* Comforting winter recipes * More great local producers revealed * Pub walks and delicious places to visit * Restaurant reviews from around the region

Make sure you get the next issue by subscribing for ÂŁ13.60 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; see p27

The Winter Issue is out on November 1, 2012

Available from good farm shops, delis and your local Waitrose store Great Food Magazine 81

GREAT FOOD CLUB MAP

Superb places where members can use their Great Food Club cards to enjoy exclusive offers

A GUI TO THDE REGIO E BESTN’S

The places on this map are part of Great Food Club – a growing network of the region’s very best food businesses. All have been handpicked by this magazine and offer exclusive deals to Great Food Club members. New arrivals include The Pickled Village of Bulwick; Hartingtons School of Food, Bakewell and the Exeter Arms, Easton on the Hill.

1 BARNSDALE LODGE

18 GOURMET SPICE CO

34 PERKINS RESTAURANT

2 BAT & BOTTLE

19 HAMBLETON BAKERY

35 THE PICKLED VILLAGE

3 BOBOLI

20 HAMBLETON HALL

36 REDHILL FARM

01572 724678, barnsdalelodge.co.uk

01572 759735, batwine.co.uk

0116 2793303, bobolirestaurant.com

4 BOUVERIE LODGE

01664 822114, bisons.org

5 BRADY’S FISHMONGERS

0116 3198363, bradysseafoodmarket.com

www.tastespice.co.uk

01572 812995, hambletonbakery.co.uk

01572 756991, hambletonhall.com

21 HAMMER & PINCERS

01509 880735, hammerandpincers.co.uk

22 HARTINGTONS SCHOOL

OF FOOD AND DRINK

01629 888586, hartingtons.com

6 CHOCOLATE ALCHEMY

01509 238113, chocolate-alchemy.co.uk

23 HART’S OF NOTTINGHAM

0115 9881900, hartsnottingham.co.uk

01572 756481, ottersdeli.co.uk

FREE RANGE PORK

01427 628270, redhillfarm.co.uk

37 RED LION, EAST HADDON

01604 770223, redlioneasthaddon.co.uk

39 RIVERFORD ORGANICS

01780 789700, riverford.co.uk/sacrewell

8 CROWN OF STAMFORD

25 JACKSON STOPS

41 THE THREE HORSESHOES

26 JOHNNY PUSZTAI AT

42 TOLLEMACHE ARMS

9 THE CURRY LOUNGE

0115 9418844, currylounge.co.uk

10 DUNCAN MURRAY WINES

01858 464935, duncanmurraywines.co.uk

11 ENTROPY

0116 2259650, entropylife.com

12 EVERARDS SHOP

0116 2014100, everards.co.uk

01780 410237, thejacksonstops.com

JT BEEDHAM & SONS

0115 960590, jtbeedham.co.uk

27 THE KING’S ARMS AT WING

01572 737634, thekingsarms-wing.co.uk

14 FIRENZE

31 MELTON CHEESEBOARD

15 FOSSE MEADOWS FARM

01455 202702, fossemeadows.com

16 FLITTERISS PARK FARM

01572 722266, thesausagesite.co.uk

17 GONALSTON FARM SHOP

0115 9665666, gonalstonfarmshop.co.uk

82 Great Food Magazine

OF ARTISAN FOOD

01909 532171, schoolofartisanfood.org

45 SHIRES COOKERY SCHOOL

30 THE MARTIN’S ARMS

0116 2796260, firenze.co.uk

43 THE SCHOOL

29 LANGAR HALL

13 EXETER ARMS

01780 756321, theexeterarms.net

01476 860477, tollemache-arms.co.uk

44 SIMPLY SIMON’S DELI

01949 860559, www.langarhall.com

01949 81361, themartinsarms.co.uk

01664 562257, meltoncheeseboard.co.uk

32 THE OLIVE BRANCH

01780 410355, theolivebranchpub.com,

33 OTTERS DELI

01572 756481, ottersdeli.co.uk

Always check offer details before trying to redeem

Lichfield

01332 695129, thehorseshoes.com

28 LAKE ISLE

01572 822951, lakeisle.co.uk

Staffs

01949 860868, theredlioninn.co.uk

RESTAURANT 40 ROOFTOP 01789 403449, rsc.org.uk

01780 763136, thecrownhotelstamford.co.uk

Burton

38 RED LION AT STATHERN

24 HOTEL MAIYANGO

0116 2518898, maiyango.com

Ashbourne

0115 9373695, perkins-family.co.uk

7 COUNTRY VICTUALLER 01636 636465, alderton.co.uk

Bakewell 22

Birmingham

01858 440964, simplysimons.co.uk

01604 621640, shirescookeryschool.com

Solihull

46 STAPLEFORD PARK

01572 787000, staplefordpark.com

47 TORI & BEN’S FARM

07884 112812, toriandbensfarm.com

48 WHITE HART AT UFFORD

40

01780 740250, whitehartufford.co.uk

49 YE OLDE PORK

PIE SHOPPE

01664 482068, porkpie.co.uk Map by Graham Wright

36

GET YOUR

FREE

43

Welbeck

Lincoln Ollerton

Matlock

GREAT FOOD CLUB IS NOW FREE TO JOIN – NO CATCHES

Mansfield

Newark

17

23

Nottingham

To join Great Food Club and receive a membership card, go to www.greatfoodclub.co.uk and fill in the form. We will then post you a Great Food Club membership card, free of charge, which enables you to claim offers at the places on this map. To see all the offers, turn to p68. The aim of Great Food Club is to showcase the region’s best food and drink businesses.

7

Notts

Derbyshire

Sleaford

9

Lincs

26

Derby

MEMBERSHIP CARD

34

Grantham

29

30

38

47 4 41

42

21

49

6

31

Melton

Leics

46

Rutland

Oakham

Leicester

16

19

11

32

24 12 5

2

33

25

19

1

19

20 13

27

Stamford

8

48 39

28

Peterboro’

35 14

Warwicks

15

3 44

10

Kettering

Coventry Leamington Warwick

Corby

Market Harborough

18

Rugby 45 37

Stilton Oundle

Cambs

Northants Northampton

SEE FULL DETAILS OF ALL OFFERS AT WWW.GREATFOODCLUB.CO.UK Great Food Magazine 83

THE AWARD WINNING TASTE OF LEICESTERSHIRE Gold Medallist, The Brewing Industry International Award 2011* Gold Medallist, The British Bottlersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Institute Competition 2011** Silver Medallist, The British Bottlersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Institute Competition 2012**

WWW.EVERARDS.CO.UK *International Keg Ale Competition, Class 2 (ABV range 3.8% - 4.7%) ** Category Ales 4.0% - 4.9% ABV

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