1. Great Food Magazine July/Aug 2010

greatfood CELEBRATING THE BEST LOCAL FOOD & DRINK

ISSUE #1 JULY/AUGUST ‘10

w w w.greatfoodleics.co.uk

Leicestershire & Rutland

fruits of

summer

BBQ GUIDE

Hot-smoking & marinade tips

Delicious berry recipes and perfect al fresco wines

FREE TASTER ISSUE

Take me, I’m all yours

Eating out ideas

LOCAL PUBS & RESTAURANTS

Best pies revealed!

Five local heroes win at British Awards

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STAMFORD & WYMONDHAM

Where to go for the perfect cream tea or summer pint

Brilliant seasonal recipes

£3.20

ISSUE #1

Making the best of the region’s finest ingredients

WIN A LUXURIOUS DAY’S PAMPERING AT RAGDALE HALL

WELCOME

Welcome

When the idea for this magazine started to grow, I knew Leicestershire and Rutland had an impressive reputation for food and drink. But I didn’t quite realise how much good stuff was going on. It only took a bit of digging to unearth award-winning farm shops, vineyards, breweries, passionate meat producers and veg growers, Michelin-starred restaurants, delis, amazing Indian eateries and outstanding pubs.

I’ve always loved food and drink, but had no idea even half of what was out there existed. That’s why launching this magazine seemed so important – to show how much great work is being done on our doorsteps.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland aims to celebrate our area’s best food and drink while telling the stories of the people who make it happen. I hope you find it informative, entertaining and enjoy the seasonal, locally-focused recipes.

Most of all, I hope it inspires you to enjoy living in the area even more than you do already.

Contents NIBBLES 4 5 6 8 11

Your recipes Fruity cocktail & PYO details Try This... The best local produce Eat This... Seasonal eating ideas Subscription offer: Sign up today!

STARTER

12 What’s Cooking? Food and drink news 15 Ragdale competition: Win a luxurious prize 16 Events: Local foodie dates for your diary

MAIN COURSE 18 20 22 24 26 30 33

Prize Pie Picnic: British Pie Award winners Whissendine Windmill Pub reviews The Exeter Arms, Barrowden Visit, Eat, Drink: Stamford & Wymondham BBQ inspiration: Matt Gregory gets grilling Summer wines: Ben Robson recommends

BACK FOR SECONDS

Editor

34 35 36 37

PS. Please get in touch to let us know what you think about your new local food magazine. We’d love to hear from you.

PUDDING

matthew.wright@greatfoodleics.co.uk

EMAIL THE EDITOR OR WRITE TO: Great Food, 7 Victoria Street, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 0AR. www.greatfoodleics.co.uk

Follow us on Twitter: greatfoodleics EDITOR: Matthew Wright, 01664 853341, matthew.wright@ greatfoodleics.co.uk ADVERTISING SALES: BPG Ltd – call Julie Cousins on 01780 766199, j.cousins@ bournepublishinggroup.co.uk PUBLISHED BY: Rocco Media PRINTED BY: Warners of Bourne CONTRIBUTORS: Matt Gregory, Jan McCourt, Graham Wright,

Tim Hart, Sarah Lyon, Angela Goodger, Sandra Herbert, Danny Jimminson, Tim Brown, Rosemary Jameson, Ben Robson, Rupert Matthews, Alison D’Angelo, Peter & Nancy Bench, Clive Simms, Ben Jones, Sean Hope, Debbie Boon.

SPECIAL THANKS TO: Philippa, the mums & dads, the Design Queen, the Ansells, Alison Queensborough and Rocco the Jack Russell...

GREAT FOOD LEICESTERSHIRE & RUTLAND IS BI-MONTHLY: NEXT ISSUE OUT SEPTEMBER 1, 2010 COVER WATERCOLOUR: Strawberries & Cream by Graham Wright.

38 39 40 41 42 45

The Slow Food Page: By Sarah Lyon Summer Pud: Recipe by Angela Goodger Jan McCourt: Thoughts from the future Berry Nice: Lilli Ansell’s fave smoothie

Danny Jimminson: Dessert and nettles Eton Mess: A summer classic Cheese Talk: Tim Brown on Blue Stilton Jams & Preserves: Recipe & special offer!

The History Spot: Stilton’s rise to fame Local beers: Three summery brews

PETIT FOURS & COFFEE 47 48 51 52 55 57 58 60 62 64

Bread: Tim Hart searches for a local loaf Indian food: Punjabi cuisine; two reviews Italian cuisine: Parma ham Local producer: John Keal, Red Poll farmer Wild herbs: What grows locally?

Figs: An overview by Clive Simms Olive Branch All Stars: Lower Grange Farm Pub walk: Braunston-in-Rutland Love This... Food-related finery Farm shop map: Find your nearest

2 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

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EVERY ISSUE DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR FOR JUST £15 – SEE P11

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YOUR RECIPES

Two great recipes to start your issue‌ This is from Philippa Maffioli, 34, from Melton Mowbray.

Philippa, an investment manager, inherited this dish from her dad Enzo, who lives in Cropston, Leicestershire. Enzo learnt it from his late father (Enzo Senior – born in Rome but spent the majority of his life in Leicester). “It’s one of the few nice dishes dad can cook,� says Philippa. “It’s quick, simple and really tasty – I’ll never forget it!�

Spaghetti Amatriciana with locally-reared bacon Serves 4

* 385g spaghetti * 120g bacon cut into

bite-size portions – “I use locally reared bacon from Northfield Farm,� says Philippa * 1 onion, roughly chopped * 4 chopped tomatoes (or use a tin) * Splash of olive oil * 1 clove of crushed fresh garlic * 1 chilli if you like a bit of heat * Fresh basil * Black pepper * Plenty of parmesan USEFUL CONTACTS Deli Italia, Church St, Melton Mowbray, 01664 500132 Northfield Farm, Cold Overton, www.northfieldfarm.com Oakdale Farm Shop, Rearsby, 01664 424300

1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil.

Cook the spaghetti as per instructions.

2 Drain and set aside. Heat the olive oil in a large wok or saucepan and add the bacon. Cook until you’d be happy to eat a piece and add the onion.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft.

3 Add the chopped tomato, crushed garlic and optional chilli and cook on a medium heat for about five minutes.

4 Next, add the spaghetti and stir everything together for a Where to buy? couple of “I usually get my minutes. ingredients from Melton 5 Finally, add market, Oakdale Farm some chopped Shop, Rearsby, or fresh basil and Northfield Farm, Cold serve with black Overton. If I use pancetta pepper and instead of bacon, I buy parmesan. from Deli Italia in Melton,�

{ } says Philippa.

GOT A GREAT RECIPE?

“This American recipe was given to me 40 years ago,� says Genny Spencer of Netherseal near Swadlincote, on the Derbyshire/ Leicestershire border. “It’s a really simple, easy-to-make pudding, and it’s frozen, which makes it perfect for hot, summer days. I’ve used it time and time again over the years. Calling it a pie’s a bit misleading, although you can put it in a pastry base if you want. It’s a creamy, mousse-like strawberry dessert, great served with fresh fruit. When possible we pick our own fruit, including strawberries, from our local PYO farm – it’s the best way to get the freshest flavours.�

Mile High Strawberry Pie with pick-your-own fruit Serves 6

* 2 egg whites * 125g caster sugar * 2 cups of halved fresh strawberries * 284ml whipped double cream

{ } Where to buy?

“The Cattows Farm Shop near Heather is a good place to pick your own strawberries and other fruit,� says Genny. “You can also get your cream and eggs there.�

Don’t keep it to yourself.

Email it to recipes@great foodleics.co.uk. If yours is published you’ll win a year’s subscription to Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

1 Whisk egg whites, strawberries and sugar on top speed for 15 minutes (yes, really that long) or until mixture fills the bowl (it should be stiff and hold peaks).

The strawberries will mash up during the whipping process, flavouring the entire mixture.

2 Fold in the whipped double cream.

3 Freeze for at least four hours.

4 Remove from freezer around half-an-hour before serving.

USEFUL CONTACTS The Cattows Farm Shop, Tea Room and Restaurant, Heather, www.thecattowsfarmshop.co.uk

4 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

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Kew Punch

Summer fruits

Summer’s in full swing and the fruit is ripe for the plucking. Make good use of those berries and put your feet up with a refreshing British garden party cocktail

Serves 4

* 1 part vodka * 1 part sweet vermouth * 12 part orange Curaçao * 2/3 part gin * /3 part cherry brandy * 2 dashes Angostura bitters * 2 parts ginger ale * 2 parts sparkling lemonade * Assorted summer fruits

{ } Mixology

If you’re a cocktail fan, Hotel Maiyango in Leicester is your cup of Long Island Iced Tea. They have a Head Mixologist.

1 Measure the vodka, vermouth, Curaçao, gin and brandy into a jug of ice and stir well. Strain into a tall glass full of fresh ice cubes and summer fruits.

2 Add the bitters and pour in chilled ginger ale and lemonade.

Garnish with mint leaves.

3 Go out into the garden, relax on a chaise longue with a good book, savour slowly and let this fantastic drink work its magic.

4 If you want to feel like you’ve earned this cocktail, pick your own summer fruits before drinking. See below...

Local Pick Your Own Farms Visit one and collect your booty‌.

FOOD

THERE’S MAP A MAP WITH DETAIL FULL S O REGION F THE ’S SHOPS FARM O PAGE 6 N 4

THE CATTOWS FARM SHOP Heather, Leics LE67 2RF, web: www.thecattows farmshop.co.uk tel: 01530 264200

GRANGE FARM Copston Magna, near Wolvey, Warks LE10 3HE, web: www.grangefarm copston.co.uk tel: 01455 220572 THE MALT KILN FARM SHOP Stretton-under-Fosse, Warks CV23 0PE web: www.maltkiln farmshop.co.uk tel: 01788 832640 MANOR FARM SHOP & TEA ROOM Catthorpe, Leics LE17 6DB web: www.manorfarm catthorpe.co.uk tel: 01788 869002 RUTLAND WATER GOLF COURSE FRUIT FARM Lodge Farm, Rutland LE15 8HB tel: 01572 737525

SCADDOWS FARM Ticknall, Derbys DE73 7JP web: www.scaddowsfarm.co.uk tel: 01332 865709 SELDOM SEEN FARM Billesdon, Leics LE7 9FA web: www.seldomseenfarm.co.uk tel: 0116 2596742 WHETSTONE PASTURES Whetstone, Leics LE8 6LX web: www.whetstone pasturesfarm.com tel: 0116 2774627 WYMESWOLD FRUIT FARM Wymeswold, Leics LE12 6SE tel: 01509 880230 Always check opening times before setting off

You can pick tayberries at Seldom Seen Farm in Billesdon, Leicestershire.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 5

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Lubcloud Dairy organic milk and cream Brockleby’s Wild Beaver Pie Local food fanatics Brockleby’s Farm Shop of Asfordby Hill, near Melton Mowbray, have taken a delicious shortcrust pastry and wrapped it around a filling of beef, ale, onion, mushroom and carrot. There must be a few other dashes in there too, as it has an intensely peppery, herby flavour, making it a pie to remember. No beavers were injured in the making of this product.

Contact: 01664 813200, www.brocklebys.co.uk. Price: £4.95.

Charnwood-based Lubcloud Dairy keep fertilisers and pesticides out of their cows’ food and don’t homogenise.

The result is pure milk and cream that hasn’t been messed with by intensive farming processes.

Contact: 01509 505055, www.lubclouddairy.co.uk Price: Milk 99p per litre.

try this...

...fabulous food and drink produced in Leicestershire and Rutland

Hawthorn Gold from Wicked Hathern Brewery

Worryingly easy to drink, with balanced flavours and a golden hue, this is an ideal summer ale. But at 4.8% it packs quite a punch. Perfect, then, for relaxed quaffing at barbecues or for putting yourself to sleep at lunchtime. One of the region’s impressive number of microbreweries, Wicked Hathern originate from East Leake, Loughborough.

Contact: 01509 559308, www.wicked-hathern.co.uk Price: £2.15 a bottle.

Sandra’s raspberry and rhubarb jam Calling all toast enthusiasts and cream tea lovers. Sandra Herbert makes a range of delicious jams using fruit grown on her bustling 600-acre farm, Whetstone Pastures in South Leicestershire. The raspberry and rhubarb combination works a treat and goes rather well on Sandra’s home-made scones with lashings of Lubcloud cream (see above). Try her pear and chocolate, damson, marmalade and lemon curd creations, too.

Contact: 0116 2774627, www.whetstonepasturesfarm.com Price: £2.75.

6 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Swithland Spring Water Swithland Spring Water bottle water that flows beneath their Charnwood farm.

Why buy aqua that’s travelled miles when perfect H2O is on your doorstep?

Delivery possible.

Contact: 01509 891189, www.swithlandspringwater.co.uk Price: £10.60 per case of 12 bottles.

Blackbrook Longhorn brisket from Springbarrow Lodge Cooked well, Blackbrook Longhorn brisket is one of the finest pieces of beef you will eat. Tried and tested by the writer and, when he wasn’t looking, by his Jack Russell, it’s perfect when roasted gently for hours. Pat and John Stanley from Springbarrow Lodge, Grace Dieu, are passionate about Longhorns. It shows.

Contact: 01509 503276, www.blackbrook-longhorns.com Price: £8.99 per kilo.

LOCAL PRODUCTS

Kandy Cupcakes Perfectly-formed treats on which to feast both your eyes and tastebuds, Sarah Thomas’s technicolour creations will brighten up any room and enhance any party. Kandy Cupcakes’ stylish yet bucolic new outlet in Woodhouse Eaves is well worth a visit – it’s the perfect place for Sarah to show off her work.

Contact: 01509 891121, www.kandycupcakes.co.uk Price: From 65p.

SHORT OF TIME?

Clarkes of Queniborough frozen ready meals

Ian Clarke makes and sells an extensive range of high-quality readymeals on-site at his bustling Queniborough deli. Choose from three categories: Curry Collection, Gourmet Cuisine and Traditional Classics. Stock up and store in the freezer. They’re perfect when cooking isn’t an option or you’re feeling plain lazy – we’re told the award-winning duck breast in bramble sauce is divine.

Contact: 0116 2606383, www.clarkesqueniborough.co.uk Price: From £2.25.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 7

Eat th is

July & August

Plan your summer eating agenda

H

igh summer: wilting heat, garden sunbathing, a barbie that works and friends over to share several cold ones. Hopefully.

But if summer fades like a typical British challenge at Wimbledon at least there are plenty of glorious ingredients in bloom: berries for refreshing desserts (see p35); wild herbs (p55) for zingy, leafy salads; edible flowers like lavender and calendula (marigolds); peas that pop in your mouth; tender sweetcorn.

If the heat gets too much recharge with mint tea – just pour hot water over fresh leaves. Or maybe mix a fresh mint julep – mint, a splash of bourbon (easy does it) and sugar over ice. You might need two after the kids break up in July or to calm nerves – or ease boredom – during the football World Cup. August 12 brings grouse-shooting and rabbit’s good at this time of year.

Cobnuts are ready too and they‘re great in pasta or crumbles. On Sundays, lamb with fresh rosemary is hard to beat.

Try English whisky distilled in Norfolk (www.englishwhisky.co.uk) in your julep.

Enjoy birdsong, vapour trails in blue skies and that magical, still time before sunset when the scents of hundreds of summer flowers descend. Stay out chatting and drinking round the barbie until well after dark at least once.

AND DONT FORGET...

Bake or buy a proper loaf on Lammas Day on August 1.

Perfect in... July

Globe artichokes Handsome, tender and delicately flavoured, globe artichokes are in season right now. Choose specimens that feel firm and weighty, indicating high moisture content.

Globe artichokes are not related to their Jerusalem namesakes.

Preparing artichokes

Globe artichokes aren’t a quick fix but that makes their well-protected prize – the tender heart – even more lip-smacking.

Remove the tough bottom leaves (bracts) and chop the entire stalk off at the base. Place stalk-end down in three inches of water, cover, and boil for 25-45 minutes, depending on size. They’re done when you can pull a leaf out easily.

To eat, extract the leaves one at a time.

You can eat the fleshy bottom bit of each leaf by scraping it off with your teeth, or by using a spoon. Discard the rest of the leaf. To find the heart, fan open the leaves, remove the smaller central leaves and discard the hairy choke. Your prize awaits.

Great with herb-butter or Farrington’s Mellow Yellow mayo with a dash of lemon juice (www.farrington-oils.co.uk).

Where to buy?

Farmers’ markets (p17); farm shops (p64); Holm Select in March, Cambridgeshire (www.holmselect.co.uk)

8 Great Good Leicestershire & Rutland

leaves

Artichoke by Rutland artist Debbie Boon – www.debbieboon.com, 01780 722035

Perfect in... July

Strawberries

THE UNDISPUTED SUMMER CHAMPION. Ripe strawberries mean summer proper has arrived. They might be available all year round in supermarkets but they’re linked with Wimbledon for a reason: they’re much tastier in season. Visit a local pick-your-own farm (see p5), pluck them yourself and eat within hours.

Simply add luxurious cream from Charnwood’s Lubcloud Dairy (www.lubcloudfarm.co.uk) and a happy amount of sugar.

{ } July is also good for blackcurrants, gooseberries, runner beans, radishes, wild fennel, watercress, Scottish girolles, crayfish, salmon, lamb and wood pigeon.

For summer fruit recipes, turn to p35.

Perfect in... August

Marsh samphire

‘TO THE SEASIDE!’ Marsh samphire gives you the perfect excuse because it grows wild in marshy, tidal areas. The Norfolk coast is renowned for this salty delicacy. If you want to save the drive, ask at your nearest local fishmonger or deli.

Pack your wellies: foraging wild samphire means getting muddy because it’s often covered at high tide.

Treat it like asparagus: boil briefly and dip in butter – it‘s perfect with fish.

Don’t pick too much as some birds rely on it over winter.

Tomatoes

{

Don’t take the world’s most versatile fruit for granted.

Anything this juicy, tangy and sweet deserves love and respect. What other fruit can be enjoyed raw, roast, griddled, sundried or fried, and brighten up almost any savoury dish by being thrown in with abandon? Does any other ingredient go as well with cheese, vodka and chips?

}

August is also good for blueberries, raspberries, redcurrants, cherries, broad beans, peas, sorrel, parasol mushrooms, crab, lobster, venison and snipe.

RECIPE: TOMATOES & SPARKENHOE RED LEICESTER ON TOAST Use sourdough bread and sweet tomatoes – Heritage varieties are good but why not experiment? Toast the bread on one side and very slightly on the other. Crush a clove of garlic and rub it into the less-toasted side before arranging tomato slices on top and toasting for a further minute or so. Melt slices of Sparkenhoe Red Leicester over garlic and tomatoes. Finish with pepper and chives. For Sparkenhoe info visit www.leicestershirecheese.co.uk, 01455 213863

Grouse

OIL YOUR SHOTGUN. The Glorious Twelfth (August 12) marks the start of the British grouseshooting season. Roasting grouse to mediumrare takes 15-20 minutes at 220C/Gas 7, and serve one bird per guest, as a rule. Mark Hix, in his excellent book British Seasonal Food, suggests rubbing your grouse with butter and putting a bit in its cavity (with a sage leaf) before roasting. Baste during cooking and serve with bread sauce. Try www.yorkshiregame.co.uk or www.blackface.co.uk for grouse.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 9

Eat th is

July & August

YOUR FOOD & DRINK CALENDAR High days and holidays for July and August – swans, crabs, oysters, Camembert and a Manx recipe JULY 3-4: Finals Weekend at All England Club, Wimbledon A good time for a glass of fizz from Welland Valley Vineyard (www.welland-vineyard.com, 01858 434591). With plenty of strawberries, of course.

JULY 5: Tynwald Day National Day of the Isle of Man. Here’s a traditional Manx recipe.

FRUIT BONNAG *Two-and-a-half cups plain flour (try Claybrooke Mill) *1 cup sugar *1 cup currants *1 tablespoon butter *1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda *1 teaspoon mixed spice *Vanilla essence *1 cup buttermilk Put dry ingredients in a bowl. Rub in butter. Gradually add buttermilk and vanilla essence and mix into a soft dough. Mould into a loaf-shape, three to four inches thick, and bake in a moderate oven for about an hour.

JULY 11: Football World Cup Final

JULY 14: Bastille Day

A highlight or the dullest day of your year? Either way, chicken skewers with Tuk Tuk Foods’ dipping sauces (Thai Barbecue and Hot Sweet Chilli to name but two) will keep your spirits up (www.tuktukfoods.co.uk, 01780 755712).

JULY 19-23: Swan Upping Festival An annual census of royal swans on the Thames. Food link? The Vintners’ Company – the London society of wine sellers – owns its own swans, so counts its own birds.

AUGUST 1: 30th British Open Crabbing Championship Dig out your hook, line and sinker. This event is held in Walberswick, Suffolk. What a glorious idea.

JULY 24-30: Whitstable Oyster Festival, Kent

How will you mark La FĂŞte Nationale?

Camembert and a drop of Claret, peut-ĂŞtre?

AUGUST 1: Lammas Day

Good with lemon, lime and Guinness.

Festival of the wheat harvest.

Join the Real Bread Campaign – www.sustainweb.org/ realbread. And enjoy bread from Hambleton Bakery (www.hambletonbakery.co.uk)

AUGUST 15: Indian Independence Day

AUGUST 29-30: Notting Hill Carnival

Time for a hot curry on the Belgrave Road in Leicester.

Jerk chicken, rice and peas, curried goat...

For your full Leicestershire & Rutland-focused food events diary, turn to p16

10 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

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WHY SUBSCRIBE? You’ll be able to look forward to a unique, beautiful, information-packed magazine that focuses on food and drink in Leicestershire & Rutland. Each issue will be delivered to your door and bring you seasonal recipes, plus features on local producers, pubs, delis, farm shops, restaurants and more.

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Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 11

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What’s

Cooking?

Market Overton's new community shop on its opening day.

EDITED BY: MATTHEW WRIGHT

Small RUTLAND CELEBRATION Rutland's first food festival will take place on September 18, 2010, at Rutland Water. There will be tastings, demos from Rutland‘s new food ambassador Sean Hope (head chef at The Olive Branch) and more. www.discover-rutland.co.uk

ELDERFLOWER FIESTA Locals have been enjoying the quintessentially English pursuit of elderflower-plucking in and around Belvoir, Leicestershire. Each June harvest, villagers pick flowers and supply them to Belvoir Fruit Farms as an ingredient for their rather fabulous-tasting Elderflower Cordial. www.belvoirfruitfarms.co.uk Elderflowers are ready in June.

NEW GRASMERE SHOP Grasmere Farm, a family business from Deeping St James (Cambs) renowned for its pork, is opening a shop in Stamford, just outside Rutland. The new outlet will be on the High Street opposite Tesco and will sell a range of local food. www.grasmere-farm.co.uk

OAKDALE ON THE UP Oakdale Farm Shop in Rearsby, Leicestershire, now has a café, outside seating area and plant sale section. Coffees, afternoon teas, cooked breakfasts, light bites and specials – including pizzas cooked in the wood-fired oven – will be served.

Call 01664 424300 for details.

Oakdale's wood-fired oven.

12 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

COMMUNITY SHOPS THRIVE Co-operatives boost villages and local food movement

S

uccessful community shops in Leicestershire and Rutland are providing a huge boost for village communities and local food producers.

In May, a community-owned shop selling local produce began trading in Market Overton, Rutland. Another is set to open in Collyweston and bustling shops already operate in Barrowden, Ibstock, Sheepy Magna, Billesdon, Rearsby and Normanton-on-Soar. Many stock locally produced food and drink, which not only differentiates them from many supermarket chains but helps local producers too.

Market Overton residents joined forces to set up their outlet after the village shop closed.

They were helped by The Plunkett Foundation (www.plunkett.co.uk, 01993 810730), which supports rural community shops.

Leicestershire and Rutland are following an exciting UK-wide trend. “Record numbers of community shops opened in 2009 and the trend is set to continue,” said Mike Perry, head of communication at the Plunkett Foundation.

“This is now a mass movement and the number one solution for rural communities when they lose their private shops.”

Of the 242 community shops to have opened in the UK in the past 25 years, 237 are still operating. Several community pubs have also recently opened in the UK. Some believe the rise of local community businesses points to a seachange in habits, with more emphasis on self-reliance, sustainability and low food miles.

In London, the People’s Supermarket has recently started trading, and a community shop has opened in Radio 4 soap The Archers.

Local beef named tastiest The Mushroom Basket, west Leicestershire, is best known for growing exotic funghi, but its Pedigree Hereford beef has for two years won first place in the Midlands and East Anglia Hereford Association Beef Tasting Competition.

Its Herefords are grassfed, matured slowly and hung on the bone for at least

six weeks. Judge at the most recent awards, Aaron Patterson of Hambleton Hall, said: “The Mushroom Basket steaks stood out a mile. They were tender, succulent and packed with flavour.”

The award-winning beef is available from The Mushroom Basket, Packington, LE65 1XA (www.themushroombasket. com, 01530 415862).

Local food news

Places to eat

In the Kitchen RAILWAY DINING

NEW DINING TRAIN FOR HERITAGE RAILWAY

RESTAURANT NICK‘S, OAKHAM

Award-winning Great Central Railway is to take its dining service to a new level with the launch of its Pullman train, which will be rolling later this year.

The Leicestershire heritage line, renowned for sumptuous meals served in restored first-class carriages, has spent £175,000 on its Pullman project.

Kate Tilley from Great Central Railway said: “The full Pullman train will be six carriages long, including a luxury bar car. This is already finished and providing a very opulent welcome for passengers. We hope to attract people in the mood for a special celebration.”

The current dining train operates all-year round, serving on Saturday and Sunday lunchtimes. There is also a six-course Saturday evening train and regular themed trains. More information at www.gcrailway.co.uk.

Leicestershire's Great Central Railway.

Nick's Restaurant, 11 Market Place, Oakham LE15 6DT, 01572 723199 www.nicksrestaurant.co.uk

PUB Inside the Pullman Bar Car.

Best local menus sought

{

“Leicestershire is the world's pie capital,” said Matthew O’Callaghan, chairman of the Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Association. “We'd love to make the pie awards bigger and better.” For more on the 2010 awards, turn to p18.

}

"Long-term we want to open the British Pie Awards to the public and invite the UK's pie-makers to Melton to sell their wares, turning it into a weekend event."

Matthew O'Callaghan

E

A gigantic British Pie Festival, held in Melton Mowbray and running over an entire weekend, is one idea being considered after the success of the second annual British Pie Awards, held at St Mary’s Church, Melton, on May 19.

IE AWA •P

S • PIE A RD

UK Pie Festival for Melton?

AWARDS

To support Leicestershire Food Fortnight (Sept 18Oct 3) Leicester Shire Promotions is on the hunt for local menus that best represent Leicestershire.

Restaurants, hotels, B&Bs and cafés will be invited to create breakfast and dinner menus with Leicestershire character. Ingredients, where possible, will be sourced locally.The winning menus will be revealed at the East Midlands Food and Drink Festival on October 3, 2010 (see overleaf). More details will appear at www.goleicestershire.com soon.

ARDS • PI W

Who will win?

Nick‘s has real individuality.

Antique tables and chairs, beautiful paintings and a sumptuous lounge room (for diners and guests) give an air of bespoke opulence. Nick’s is also a hotel – Lord Nelson’s House – with four rooms, each unique.

Much pride and effort goes into the food, wine and ambience but prices are reasonable. On Thursday evenings two people can enjoy two courses for £15.95.

Impressive lunch offers are available too.

THE RED HOUSE, NETHER BROUGHTON On the A606 between Melton and Nottingham, The Red House is a pub, hotel and restaurant. The focus is on the quality of the food, wine and beer at this old coach house, and chef Mark Hines likes to use local produce – including meat from the butcher in Upper Broughton and cheese from Long Clawson. There‘s a bar area, restaurant and pretty garden.

Dogs are welcome in the bar.

The Red House, 23 Main Street, Nether Broughton LE14 3HB, 01664 822429 www.the-redhouse.co.uk

DELI

DELI FLAVOUR, STONEYGATE, LEICESTER Being named one of the country's

top 50 delis by The Independent is some achievement, but this Stoneygate shop is just carrying on doing what it does best – selling a fine array of gourmet goodies and top quality kitchenware. In addition to its internationally sourced olives, meats and cheeses, Deli Flavour stocks an extensive range of Leicestershire produce, including beers and cider.

Deli Flavour, 2 Allandale Road, Leicester LE2 2DA, 0116 2700771 www.deliflavour.net

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 13

What’s

Cooking?

Wartime Recipes#1

OINK! RARE PIGLETS BORN

Don‘t miss...

FRIED MUSH “Make the porridge and put into a flat pie-dish, at least three inches deep, and leave it to get cold.

Cut into half-inch slices, flour slightly, and fry in hot bacon or meat dripping until a fairly crisp brown on both sides. Take up with a fish slice or broad knife. This makes a very good breakfast dish, or can be served with meat as a vegetable. If eaten with maple or golden syrup, it makes a delicious pudding.”

Taken from The Win-TheWar Cookery Book, May 1917.

{

Sixteen British Lop piglets were born at Northfield Farm in Cold Overton, Leicestershire, in May. Widely regarded as the rarest breed of British pig, the litter is doing well, as are the proud mother and father.

Whisper it, but Lops are said to produce the finest bacon of all. Progress update next issue. www.northfieldfarm.com

}

“I’ve had my permanent stall here for a year and a half.

We sell lots of fresh, local produce and are building up a loyal customer base.”

Joy Catlin

14 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Quaffing local beers, tasting champagnes, sampling sausages, testing curries and watching live cooking demonstrations. Sounds fun to us. If it gets you salivating, put the 2010 East Midlands Food and Drink Festival in your diary. Taking place on October 2-3, 2010 at 16th century Brooksby Hall near Melton Mowbray, the event is Britain's largest regional celebration of great food and drink.

More info at www.east midlandsfood festival.co.uk ROADSIDE SELLER

FRUITY PIT STOP Joy Catlin has a wonderful fruit, veg and flower stall on the A607 just outside Kirby Bellars on the Melton Mowbray side. She can be found a few yards off the road down a short track. Why not pay her a visit?

WIN A LUXURIOUS DAY AT RAGDALE HALL FOR YOU AND A FRIEND Great food’s no good if you’re jaded.

Luckily one of the world’s best health spas is on our doorsteps. Here’s your chance to win a day losing yourself in the ultimate spa experience

Ragdale Hall.

THE BEST Ragdale Hall Health Hydro and Thermal Spa has received a staggering number of awards over the years.

It’s been named Best Destination Spa in Europe and was this year christened the UK’s Favourite Spa Retreat

by CondÊ Nast Traveller magazine. Ragdale also serves exceptional food and wine, with the emphasis on light, healthy dishes. They’ve even created their own cook book, and we’ll throw in two copies as part of the prize.

The Candle Pool.

PRIZE DETAILS Welcome drink on arrival and light lunch in the Verandah Bar; use of the new thermal spa including Candle Pool, Indoor/Outdoor Waterfall Pool and a series of heat and water experiences; use of a indoor pool with whirlpool, cascade and massage jets; unrestricted use of steam room and sanarium; use of the outdoor pool (summer months only) and gymnasium; a choice of over 18 exercise and relaxation classes in our

two studios; a choice of four water exercise sessions in our separate exercise pool; use of aquagym equipment; use of mountain bikes, tennis courts, pitch and putt and boules area; a locker and changing rooms with showers and towels; beautiful lounges and gardens in which to relax; mind gym.

Prize hours: 10.30am to 6.30pm. www.ragdalehall.co.uk 01664 434831

HOW TO ENTER Visit www.greatfoodleics.co.uk and fill in the form.

Or email your name, address and phone number to competitions@greatfoodleics.co.uk.

Or fill in this form and post to: Ragdale Competition, Great Food, 7 Victoria Street, Melton Mowbray LE13 0AR Closing date: August 11, 2010. The first entry drawn on August 12 will win the prize: a day at Ragdale Hall for two people.

Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms First name.............................................................................................................................

Surname ........................................................................................................................................................................

Address ..........................................................................................................................................................................

Postcode........................................................................................................................................................................

Tel no. ..............................................................................................................................................................................

Email address.............................................................................................................................................................

By sending/entering your address/email/phone number, you are choosing to be contacted occasionally by Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland with news of great offers. You can unsubscribe at any time and your details will never be passed to other organisations. Please tick if you DO NOT wish to be contacted by Great Food [ ] by carefully chosen partner organisations [ ] Terms and conditions: The first entry drawn on August 12, 2010 will win the prize. One entry per person. Competition open to over-16s accompanied by an adult. Anybody may take part except employees of Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland and their family members. The prize is not transferrable and cannot be exchanged for cash. Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland cannot take any responsibility for lost entry forms or any damage, losses or injuries related to the draw or prize. Closing date for entry is August 11, 2010 at 6pm. The winner will be notified via telephone or email. The editor’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 15

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E ve nts

July & August

Paint the town red! The best local foodie dos JULY

June 18-July 4

July 9-10

Various locations in Oakham.

Festival Party Night on July 2, with marquee at Oakham Castle, bar and hog roast.

Contact: www.oakhamfestival.co.uk, 07826 733374

Shearsby, Leicestershire.

Contact: www.chandlersatshearsby.co.uk, 0116 2478384

OAKHAM FESTIVAL

July 1-3

BEER & BANGERS FESTIVAL Elephant & Castle, Thurlaston.

15 real ales and sausages from local butchers.

Contact: www.elephantandcastle thurlaston.co.uk, 01455 888213

Dramatic dining

July & August: Shakespeare at Tolethorpe Open Air Theatre.

Dining & pre-prepared picnics available at Tolethorpe Hall.

Contact: 01780 756133, www.stamfordshakespeare.co.uk

July 3

SWEET TREATS Clumber Park, Nottinghamshire.

Cookery demos using fruits grown at Clumber.

Contact: 01909 544917

COOKING IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN AT DODDINGTON HALL Doddington Hall, Lincolnshire.

Slow Food Rutland & Lincolnshire event.

Contact: Sarah Lyon, 01780 753772

STAPLEFORD PARK SUMMER BALL Stapleford Park, near Melton Mowbray.

Champagne, canapés and three-course meal.

Contact: www.staplefordpark.com, 01572 787019

July 5-7

HERB WEEK Kedleston Hall, Derbyshire.

Herb sale, recipes and talks.

Contact: 01332 842191

July 9

WINE & DINE ON THE MAIN LINE Loughborough Central Station.

Wine and dine on the Great Central Railway.

Contact: www.gcrailway.co.uk, 01509 230726

16 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

July 17

THE CHANDLERS ARMS SECOND ANNUAL BEER FESTIVAL

OUNDLE FOOD FESTIVAL Market Square, Oundle, Cambs.

Contact: www.oundlefoodfestival.co.uk, 01832 274734

July 10

BATTLE PROMS PICNIC CONCERT Burghley House, Stamford, Lincs.

Picnics, Pimms and flag waving. Very British.

Pack your own picnic or pre-order one.

Contact: www.battleproms.com, 01432 355416

July 12-18

{

July 14

CALKE ABBEY FINE FOOD FAIR Calke Abbey, Ticknall, Derbys.

A celebration of local food with cookery demos Contact: 01332 863822

July 18

Lyddington, Rutland.

Available to Music in Lyddington ticket holders.

Contact: www.marquessexeter.co.uk, 01572 822477, www.musicinlyddington.co.uk

}

NORTHFIELD FARM CLASSIC CAR & BIKE MEET

Northfield Farm, Cold Overton.

Great local food and drink sold all day.

Contact: www.northfieldfarm.com, 01664 474271

July 15-18

July 18

TWO-COURSE DINNER OFFER AT MARQUESS OF EXTER

POWER OF PLANTS AT RAGDALE HALL Ragdale Hall, near Melton Mowbray.

Summer ‘Garden Party’ at Ragdale Hall.

Contact: www.ragdalehall.co.uk, 01664 434831

WANT YOU EVENT R APPEA TO EMAIL ER HERE? ENTS@ GREATV FO LEICS. OD CO.UK

July 23-25

SUMMER BEER FESTIVAL The Old Black Horse, Houghton on the Hill.

Over 20 real ales and ciders, plus BBQ. Contact: www.theoldblackhorse.co.uk, 0116 2413486

July 29

FLAVOURS OF MIDDLE ENGLAND FROM A 17TH CENTURY RUTLAND COACHING INN Kings’ Arms, Wing.

Slow Food Rutland & Lincolnshire event.

Contact: Sarah Lyon, 01780 753772

SMITH’S OF BOURNE FOURTH ANNUAL BEER FESTIVAL Smiths pub, Bourne, Lincs.

Contact: www.smithsofbourne.co.uk, 01778 426819

July 31

July 15

GRANGE GARDEN CENTRE CRAFT AND FOOD FAIR Grange Centre, Asfordby Hill, Melton Mowbray Local produce stalls and crafts. High-quality hot food available from nearby Brockleby’s.

Contact: www.houghtys.co.uk, 01664 812012

SEASONAL PLOT TO PLATE Clumber Park, Nottinghamshire.

Cookery demos using seasonal produce.

Contact: 01909 544917

July 18

SCHOOL OF ARTISAN FOOD, WELBECK, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE Many one-day/short courses available.

Contact: www.schoolofartisanfood.org, 01909 532171

From brewing to butchery, The School of Artisan Food trains in all aspects of artisan food production. You can do day courses, diplomas and even degrees.

All events have been checked and are scheduled to take place on the dates listed above, but please check with the organisers before setting off.

What’s coming up?

AUGUST August 1

SAMPHIRE IN THE LINCOLNSHIRE MARSHES Fosdyke, Boston.

Slow Food Rutland & Lincolnshire event.

Contact: Sarah Lyon, 01780 753772

BELTON HOUSE FOOD FAIR Belton House, Grantham.

Contact: 01476 566116

August 4

August 29-30

Burghley Fine Food Market

BURGHLEY HOUSE, STAMFORD More than 20 local producers will be selling their wares in the backdrop of one of Britain’s finest Elizabethan houses.

Contact: www.burghley.co.uk, 01780 752451

rs’ ts F ar me marke

Where’s your nearest market?

ASHBY DE LA ZOUCH When? Third Saturday of the month, 10am-2pm Where? Manor House School, LE65 1BR

BLABY When? Fourth Sat of month, 9am-1.30pm Where? Blaby Social Centre, LE8 4GG

MAHARAJA EXPRESS II

BURBAGE

Loughborough Central Station.

Indian food on the Great Central Railway.

Contact: www.gcrailway.co.uk, 01509 230726

When? First Sat of month, 9am-1.30pm Where? Windsor St, LE10 2EF

CASTLE DONINGTON When? Second Sat of month, 9am-12.30pm Where? St Edward’s School, DE74 2LH

August 8-11

EARL SHILTON

ARTISAN BAKING COURSE School of Artisan Food, Notts.

See box-out.

August 13-15

SUMMER SUNDAE WEEKENDER De Montford Hall & Gardens, Leicester.

Leicester’s very own giant music festival.

Contact: www.summersundae.com, 0116 2333113

August 14

TWO-COURSE DINNER OFFER AT MARQUESS OF EXTER Lyddington, Rutland.

Available to Music in Lyddington ticket holders.

Contact: www.marquessexeter.co.uk, 01572 822477, www.musicinlyddington.co.uk

A TASTE OF NOTTINGHAMSHIRE Clumber Park, Nottinghamshire.

Cookery demos using ingredients grown at Clumber Park.

Contact: 01909 544917

August 14-15

SOUTH HOLLAND FOOD FESTIVAL Castle Playing Fields, Spalding, Lincs.

Contact: www.food-festival.net, 01775 764598

August 21

BELVOIR FIREWORK CHAMPIONSHIPS Belvoir Castle, Leicestershire.

Bring a picnic or food & drink available on-site.

Contact: www.belvoircastle.com, 0845 8334427

August 24-28

PETERBOROUGH BEER FESTIVAL The Embankment, Peterborough.

Over 350 real ales and 100 ciders and perries.

Contact: www.peterborough-camra.org.uk

August 28

MAIYANGO NEW COCKTAIL MENU LAUNCH Maiyango, St Nicholas’ Place, Leicester.

Gastronomic cocktails from the mixologist.

Contact: www.maiyango.com, 0116 2518898

August 29-30

TEDDY BEARS’ PICNIC AND FAMILY FUN WEEKEND Belvoir Castle, Leicestershire.

Bring your teddy and join the picnic party.

Contact: www.belvoircastle.com, 01476 871002

When? Third Sat of month, 9am-1pm Where? Wood St, LE9 7NF

HINCKLEY When? Third Thurs of month, 9am-1.30pm Where? The Market Place, LE10 1NT

KIBWORTH BEAUCHAMP When? Second Sat of month, 9am-1pm Where? Kibworth High School, Smeeton Rd

LEICESTER When? Last Weds of the month, 9am-2pm Where? The Market Place, LE1 5GG

LOUGHBOROUGH When? Second Weds of month, 9am-3pm Where? Devonshire Square, LE11 3DW

LUTTERWORTH

August 29-30

When? Second Sat of month, 9am-1.30pm Where? Lutterworth Town Hall Car Park, LE17 4EH

Aylestone Leisure Centre, Leicester.

Large show attracting the UK’s best growers.

Contact: 0116 2715278

When? Fourth Sun of month, 9am-2.30pm Where? Market Square, CV13 0JW

LEICESTER HORTICULTURE SHOW

September 2-5

THE LAND ROVER BURGHLEY HORSE TRIALS Burghley House, Stamford.

Experience specialist stalls in the Foodwalk.

Contact: www.burghley-horse.co.uk, 01780 752131

August 26-30

Rutland Beer Festival

Grainstore Brewery, Oakham.

Over 70 real ales, plus stouts, bitters, porters and barley wines. There’s also a BBQ running all weekend and a hog roast to kick off the event.

Contact: www.grainstorebrewery.com, 01572 770065.

MARKET BOSWORTH

MARKET HARBOROUGH When? First Thursday of month, 9am-2pm Where? The Square, LE16 7DR

MELTON MOWBRAY When? Every Tuesday and Friday, 8am-noon Where? Scalford Road, LE13 1JY

OAKHAM When? Third Sat of month, 8am-2pm Where? Gaol Street, LE15 6AQ

STAMFORD When? Every other Friday, 8.30am-3pm Where? Red Lion Square, PE9 1PA

UPPINGHAM When? Second Fri of month, 8am-1pm Where? Mercers Yard, LE15 9PZ

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 17

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BRITISH PIE AWARDS 2010

WARDS EA

Pride of

S • PIE A RD

IE AWA •P

ARDS • PI W

Leicestershire All five pies pictured here were champions at the 2010 British Pie Awards. They were also all handmade in Leicestershire

L

eicestershire’s pie heritage is second to none. It’s fitting, then, that of the 13 class winners at the 2010 Colman’s British Pie Awards, held at St Mary’s Church, Melton Mowbray in May, five were made in the county. With over 700 entries from all over the UK, that’s an exceptional ratio.

Dominant were Walkers Charnwood Bakery – a brilliant performance by their master pie maker Ian Heircock – but it’s fantastic that two much smaller

Leicestershire producers – Northfield Farm and Brockleby’s – claimed class wins.

The annual British Pie Awards, now in its second year, seems set to grow. Held on May 19, more than 60 judges – including Phil Vickery, Julia Bradbury, Rosemary Shrager, Rachel Green and this magazine’s very own Matthew Wright – were on hand to analyse the pastry.

Matthew O’Callaghan, chairman of the Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Association, organisers of the event, said: “We were

overwhelmed by the number of entries this year and the quality has been unbelievable.

Having five Leicestershire winners come through such a tough judging process is a fantastic result for the county.�

Next year’s awards will be held on April 19 in Melton. For more information, go to www.britishpieawards.co.uk.

Inspired by the Leicestershire producers’ efforts, we took the five county champs for a picnic near Bradgate Park, so you can see them in all their glory.

MELTON MOWBRAY PORK PIE FOR TESCO (WALKERS CHARNWOOD BAKERY)

FRUITS OF THE FOREST (BROCKLEBY’S)

18 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

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Local produce

Northfield Farm’s Bramley & Cox Pie

Brockleby’s Fruits of the Forest Pie

Title: Britain’s Best Apple Pie Where can I buy one?

Northfield Farm, Cold Overton: www.northfieldfarm.com, 01664 474271

Title: Britain’s Best ‘Other Dessert’ Pie Where can I buy one?

Brockleby’s, Asfordby Hill: www.brocklebys.co.uk, 01664 813200

Walkers Charnwood Bakery’s Pork, Ham & Chicken Pie Title: Britain’s Best Pie Where can I buy one?

Waitrose: www.waitrose.com

Walkers Charnwood Bakery Melton Mowbray Pork Pie for Tesco Title: Britain’s Best Melton Mowbray Pork Pie. Where can I buy one?

Tesco: www.tesco.com

Walkers Charnwood Bakery Henry Walker Large Pork Pie Title: Britain’s Best Non-Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Where can I buy one? Ye OIde Pork Pie Shoppe, Melton Mowbray: www.porkpie.co.uk, 01664 482068, and selected Waitrose and Co-Op stores.

HENRY WALKER

LARGE PORK PIE (WALKERS CHARNWOOD BAKERY) CHICKEN, PORK AND HAM PIE FOR WAITROSE (WALKERS CHARNWOOD BAKERY)

BRAMLEY AND COX APPLE PIE (NORTHFIELD FARM)

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 27

LOCAL PRODUCER

Dream chaser

Some want boardroom power, others cash. Whissendine Windmill’s Nigel Moon only ever wanted to mill ARTICLE: JAN McCOURT PHOTOS: MATTHEW WRIGHT

F

ifty years ago, a boy climbed onto the back of a pony in rural Leicestershire and rode out into the countryside. The little boy lived in the city of Leicester. Ponies are conducive to childrens’ dreams. This dreamer’s dream was quite unusual. On his regular route lay the Fenney Windmill at Shepshed. The mill towered above the little boy as his pony ambled by. From the first time he saw it from his pony, much as it would have been viewed more than a century earlier by any traveller on horse-back, Nigel Moon decided he would become a miller.

Childhood dreams come and go.

Nigel’s dream was shared by his parents.

As it became clear that young Nigel was very serious indeed, so his father, a fresh water biologist for whom the countryside was a passion, and his mother, started driving around the country with him, looking at and for mills in need of rescue.

Having tried to buy Whissendine mill in the early 1970s, the family bought derelict Soham mill, Cambridgeshire, in 1974, which they restored. Nigel’s mother ran a shop in a caravan selling flour and frozen ready-mixed dough. Their aim, was to encourage people to bake their own bread using real flour.

Nigel restored the mill at Soham and rebuilt its sails, his first attempt at doing so. Paradoxically, Nigel, having adopted the most traditional of crafts, embraced the future. He decided to use a steel arm in the new sails as a stronger option instead of the traditional wood. When the sails were finally ready to turn in the wind, he let them gather speed. The great new sails came slowly to a halt as the wind died down.

Nigel’s mother stood back to admire her son’s great achievement just as the weld on the new steel join cracked.

The whole sail sheared off and, falling, impaled itself in the ground a few feet from where his mother was standing.

WHISSENDINE WINDMILL The 60-foot tower mill was built in 1810 and restored by Nigel in 1996, having stood idle for 74 years. The mill produces a variety of flours.

Melton Road, Whissendine, Rutland LE15 7EU, 01664 474172

20 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

History does not record how Nigel’s mother reacted, but she is still to be found, now in her nineties, hard at work supporting her son in his lifelong endeavour. Nigel learnt his lesson from his flirtation with modernity. He went back to wood.

Although Nigel’s early attempts to buy Whissendine Windmill had been rebuffed, he maintained contact with the building by helping in the restoration of its windows over several years.

The family’s quest remained beset by the curse of the drive to convert mills into houses as an alternative form of a rural-housing dream. This in itself was a threat to the remaining mills’ chances of ever regaining their original purpose.

Nigel still had his heart set on taking on the Whissendine mill and negotiated with its owner at the time for three years.

Between 1981 and 1986 Nigel was commissioned to rebuild Wymondham Mill. He managed to buy Whissendine Windmill in 1995. Too few of us ever really realise our dreams. Nigel was determined to be what he has since become: the proprietor of one of England’s few remaining fully operational nineteenth century windmills. For Nigel though, he had to be a very particular miller. Not for him the glistening steel of modern, sterile, equipment, or the link in the chain of creation of mass-produced bread.

Nigel’s views are clear. To preserve our mills, we must stop viewing them solely as objects to be preserved. They must earn their keep.

Outside Whissendine Windmill lies one of the many scale models of a mill that Nigel made as a boy. If you were to conjure up an image of a typical miller, your vision would be of Nigel. The miller, covered from head to toe in a light dusting of organic flour, his blue eyes dancing and shining brightly above a smile, surrounded by his thick beard.

Whissendine Windmill flour is used in a number of local foods, including Northfield Farm’s award-winning Bramley and Cox apple pie.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 21

OUT & ABOUT

All dishes are beautifully presented.

The King’s Arms, Wing

CUISINE: British with Swiss influences PRICE PER HEAD: £30-£40 (for three courses, one side order and drinks) KIDS WELCOME: Yes DOGS: Yes, in bar area only CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Yes, lots FOOD TIMES: Summer – Tue-Sun 12-3pm (last orders 2pm); Mon-Sat 6.30pm-11pm (last orders 8.30pm). Some minor variations depending on day of week – phone to check.

Grainstore beers are sold here.

Collyweston Slater, Collyweston

WELL PRESENTED; INVENTIVE MENU

CUISINE: British PRICE PER HEAD: £30-£40 (for three courses and drinks) KIDS WELCOME: Yes DOGS: No CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Yes, lots FOOD TIMES: Mon-Sat 12-3pm, 6-9.30pm; Sun 12-8pm

T

he Collyweston Slater near Stamford has been building an impressive reputation for food since patron and head chef Dameon Clarke took over last year. Dameon, 32, has put huge amounts of time into turning the pub/hotel (it has five guest rooms) into a notable dining destination. His achievements include all manner of local plaudits, plus two AA Rosettes for the à la carte menu and being named one of the 50 best gastropubs in the UK by The Independent in 2009.

I met my family here for Sunday lunch back in May. The imagination shown in all dishes was impressive, from the goat’s cheese parfait with figs, sour pear sorbet and fig jelly (a fascinating taste combination... in a good way), to the Tonka bean crème brûlée with bee pollen and cola sherbet (Tonka beans give a vanilla flavour, nothing to do with toy trucks). Presentation of all the food was outstanding and the whole family – including my 10- and 12-year-old cousins THE COLLYWESTON SLATER 87 Main Road, Collyweston, near Stamford, Lincs PE9 3PQ www.collywestonslater.co.uk 01780 444288 Double rooms from £85 including breakfast

– throughly enjoyed our meals, especially the Grasmere Farm pork.

We had a clean, refreshing Sacchetto Pinot Grigio from north-east Italy and the beer-drinkers chose from the reliable Everards selection (this is an Everards pub), including the dangerously drinkable Tiger.

Dameon Clarke, who gained valuable experience as senior chef at Gary Rhodes’ Edinburgh restaurant, is doing plenty of things right and clearly has a talent for combining flavours. Q

Menu samples STARTERS Pan-fried scallops £8.95 With cauliflower purée, garlic butter, pancetta and caramelised chicory

Beef Carpaccio £8.95 With horseradish panna cotta

MAINS Slow-cooked beef £14.95 With fresh morels, steak & kidney samosa, asparagus & red wine jus

Battered cod £13.50 With pea purée, three-times cooked chips and tartare sauce

DESSERT Pecan tart £6.50 With maple syrup ice cream

22 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

The Joiner’s Arms, Bruntingthorpe

CUISINE: British PRICE PER HEAD: £20-£30 (for three courses and drinks) KIDS WELCOME: Yes DOGS: No CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Yes, lots FOOD TIMES: Tue-Sun 12-2pm; Tue-Sat 6.30pm-11pm (last food orders 9.30pm)

T

ucked away in the pretty southLeicestershire village of Bruntingthorpe he Joiner’s Arms is an attractive whitewashed old building with a good reputation for food.

Arriving feels promising – this is how a proper English village pub should look.

Inside, the flagstone floor, exposed oak beams and church-pew benches with designer cushions look the part. It’s all very Country Living and thoroughly pleasant. Understated modern touches like flashes of trendy floralpattern wallpaper and tasteful grey matt paint bring things up to date. The gents’ loo is impressively clean and beautifully decorated.

For once, the Molton Brown handwash doesn’t feel out of place.

Arriving at 1.45pm – the latest Sunday lunch slot – we take our table for six. The Joiner’s is full and the atmosphere is warm,

Reviews

Menu samples STARTERS Rutland trout £7.50 Cold smoked, with Gravad & Braden Rost pate, dressings and shoots

LOCAL PRODUCE USED IN MOST DISHES

Goat’s cheese £7 Rosary croquette, parmesan crisp basket, Wing ham, mint salad

MAINS Cod loin (Whitby) £15.25 Lemon Hollandaise, summer vegetable risotto, tempura asparagus

Roebuck saddle £15 Grimsthorpe roebuck with muntjac salami, dauphinoise potatoes

DESSERTS Wing rhubarb platter £8

W

alking into a village pub and finding yourself feeling instantly pleased you’ve come, at ease and grasping for the menu is a good sign.

Sometimes you know quickly that you’ve stumbled across something special, and you get that impression as you amble through the door of the King’s Arms in Wing, situated between Oakham and Uppingham. The map and photos of the pub’s local food suppliers is a giveaway, as is the vast array of seasonal ingredients and relaxed atmosphere. The only problem is the menu, which is so long and impressive you struggle to choose.

Run by head chef James Goss and family, the King’s Arms is a 17-century country pub in

The King’s Arms dates back to 1649.

a beautiful setting. It has a homely feel, with stripped-wood tables, exposed flagstones and floorboards, gingham curtains and low, beamed ceilings. There’s also an outside seating area and en suite rooms.

One of the best things about the pub is that passionate chef James makes everything inhouse, from the tomato ketchup up. He also runs Jimmy’s Smokehouse out the back, where he smokes things like Rutland trout, Hambleton mutton and Grasmere ham.

James learned to smoke in Switzerland, where he was trained by the best.

The King’s Arms is a pub run with passion and this shows in its food and drink. It deserves its East Midlands Tourism ‘Taste The Region’ bronze award. Q THE KING’S ARMS 13 Top Street, Wing, Rutland LE15 8SE www.thekingsarms-wing.co.uk, 01572 737634 Double rooms from £60

Menu samples (Sunday lunch)

SIMPLE INGREDIENTS COOKED WELL

STARTERS Avocado & Prawn Marie Rose Garlic mushrooms with puff pastry Tomato & mozzarella salad MAINS Roast salmon with leeks, peas & mustard grain sauce Roast rump of mature Scottish beef and Yorkshire pudding DESSERT Apple crumble and custard Three courses for £17.95

‘‘Simple, well cooked ingredients in lovely surroundings” happy and content. Service is swift and polite, and the maitre d’ attends to us quickly to mop up our spilt pint of Greene King IPA. Suffolkbrewed IPA is the only real ale on offer at The Joiner’s today; the wine list is extensive.

After some warm bread, starters arrive.

My broccoli soup tastes fresh, warming and wholesome, and my wife is impressed by her beautifully presented melon with sorbet.

Rump of roast beef with Yorkshires and plenty of seasonal veg are next, and our

bonus plate of Yorkshires are met with the intense gratitude of the truly greedy. The mature Scottish beef is thick, tender and wellcooked, and the roast salmon with leeks, peas and mustard grain sauce tastes fantastic.

Overall, a superb Sunday lunch, reasonably priced, with good-quality, simple, well-cooked ingredients in lovely surroundings. The Joiner’s is a great village gastropub that’s had much love lavished on it by owners Stephen and Tracey Fitzpatrick. Q

THE JOINER’S ARMS Church Walk, Bruntingthorpe, Leics LE17 5QH www.thejoinersarms.co.uk, 0116 2478258

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 23

OUT & ABOUT

The Exeter Arms

FEATURED PUB

Barrowden, Rutland WORDS & PHOTOS: MATT GREGORY In many ways this is an archetypal village pub overlooking the village green. The food, though, is a significant step up from your average ploughman’s and there’s a brewery in the garden. Yup, this pub – also known as Barrowden Brewing Company – brews all its own beer, and only for them too, so you have to go to the Exeter Arms if you want to drink their ales. And you should want to.

The brewery is a glorified shed, definitely the kind of shed I aspire to. If you are exceptionally lucky landlord and brewer Martin Allsopp will have Own Gear on the pumps, which is the beer brewed from hops grown in the garden. Weighing in at 4% alcohol, it won first prize at the Leicester Beer Festival in 2008. Enough hops are produced to make just two batches, so you will have to get your timing spot on.

Available all or most of the time are Pilot (named after the pub dog), a refreshing

lunchtime sort of pint at 2.6% (£2.50); Beech at 3.8% in the manner of a Best Bitter; and Hop Gear at 4.4% that is unsurprisingly rather hoppy. Inside, the pub is cosy and cared for with exposed bricks and stripped floors being the order of the day and plenty of room to eat inside if the weather isn’t up to much.

Idyllic location, huge garden, great beer and top-notch pub food, the Exeter Arms has it all. Get someone else to drive. Q

Sample menu Selected seasonal soup of the day, ÂŁ4.25 Mussels in white wine, garlic & parsley, ÂŁ6.50 Mixed grill, ÂŁ15.25 Steak and Barrowden ale pie, ÂŁ9.95 Apple pie and custard, ÂŁ4.50 Chocolate fudge cake, ÂŁ4.50 There is a short list of wines available by the glass and bottle.

Look out for Pilot the resident Boxer, and eponymous beer.

THE EXETER ARMS 28 Main Street , Barrowden, LE15 8EQ Tel: 01572 747247 web: www.exeterarmsrutland.co.uk Opening times: Tuesday to Saturday 12-2.30pm (3.30pm on Saturday) & 6-11pm; Sunday 12-5pm only; Mon 6-11pm only. Food served 12-2pm & 6.30-9pm.

Parking: Large amount of parking available and the massive garden is both children and dog-friendly.

24 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

3XE UHYLHZ PZ OPM LQGG

Proud to be the Official Beer of the Leicester Tigers

WWW.EVERARDS.CO.UK

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27/7/10 15:48:57

LOCAL PLACES

Jim’s Yard.

The Crown.

Courtyard at The George Hotel.

VISIT, EAT, DRINK

STAMFORD

Food and drink are at the heart of this old stone town

S

pires, old stone buildings and pubs: three things that sum up the bustling market town of Stamford, located just outside Rutland in Lincolnshire. But using these words alone to describe the town is like calling Michelangelo’s Statue of David a nice bit of marble. Whether it’s the ancient limestone architecture, the numerous boozers, mini-Oxford spires, or presence of the river Welland

which dissects the town, Stamford has a magic all of its own.

In summer, its beer gardens, delis and restaurants buzz, tourists amble (often into the road) and the meadows host a variety of sun-bathers, drinkers, football players and frisbee flingers.

Food and drink-wise, Stamford has lots to offer, with the weekly Friday market on Broad Street and All Saints’ Brewery being just two places to visit.

Jenny Fitzpatrick, 29, owner of the Fine Food Store (another must-visit) on St Mary’s Street, says: “My favourite place to go for pizza or glass of Pinot Noir is the Tobie Norris – amazing interior, great food and perfect wine.

“In summer, the courtyard at The George hotel is fabulous – a bottle of Sancerre with their seafood platter is very hard to beat.”

Opposite are our tips...

‘Its beer gardens, delis and restaurants buzz, tourists amble (often into the road) and the meadows hosts a variety of sun-bathers and frsbee flingers’

26 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Visit, eat, drink

Try these...

The George

Elizabethan splendour...

Burghley House.

71 Saint Martin’s Close, PE9 2LB The town’s most celebrated hotel – historic, haunted (so they say), labyrinthine, luxurious and devoted to serving good food. web: www.georgehotelofstamford.com tel: 01780 750750

Sinclair’s 11-12 St Mary’s Street, PE9 2DE Kitchenware, glassware, porcelain and more – this shop is a browser’s paradise and great for gifts. tel: 01780 765421

Fine Food Store

Hambleton Bakery.

37 St Mary’s Street, PE9 2DF Coffee, amazing cakes, sandwiches, artisan cheeses and now a highly recommended bistro in the evening. web: www.thefinefoodstore.com tel: 01780 754222

The Jolly Brewer

Raj of India

1 Foundry Road, PE9 2PP Reborn as a genuinely honest pub that prides itself on fine ales and cider. web: www.jollybrewer.com tel: 01509 413216

2 All Saints Street, PE9 2PA An institution among Stamfordians, the Raj deserves its hard-won reputation. web: www.rajofindia-stamford.co.uk tel: 01780 408104

Tobie Norris

Hambleton Bakery

Asker’s

12 St Paul’s Street, PE9 2BE Outstanding pub that dates back to 1280. Sublime interior restoration, superb beers (including local Ufford Ales) and world-class pizzas. web: www.tobienorris.com tel: 01780 753800

1 Ironmonger Street, PE9 1PL Traditional fresh bread, muffins, cakes and more baked with love in a magnificent wood-fired oven. See p47. web: www.hambletonbakery.co.uk tel: 01572 768936

Red Lion Street, PE9 1PA Traditional bakers that’s been around longer than most Stamford locals can remember. Fabulous cakes and bread. tel: 01780 481933

Stamford Garden Centre

Cook 50 High Street, PE9 2BD Interesting addition to the town’s gourmet geography, Cook sells a vast array of very posh ready meals. web: www.cookfood.net tel: 01780 766051

28 Scotgate, PE9 2YQ If you’re a real-ale or cider fan, this 18th century pub is worth a visit. tel: 01780 753598

Great Casterton, PE9 4BB Evening dining in The Garden Kitchen, cakes to order, a farm shop and gardeners’ essentials. tel: 01780 765656 web: www.stamfordgardencentre.co.uk

Adnams Cellar & Kitchen St Mary’s Passage, PE9 2HG Carefully selected wines, beers, food and kitchenware are sold in the Suffolk brewer’s Stamford store. web: www.adnams.co.uk tel: 01780 753127

Jim’s Yard Rear of 3 Ironmonger Street, PE9 1PL Tucked away behind various limestone walls in the centre of town, the food at this Bib Gourmand-awarded restaurant is of a reliably high standard. web: www.jimsyard.biz tel: 01780 756080

Hidden gem The walled garden of the aptly named Garden House Hotel on High Street St Martins is beautiful.

Professionally maintained and landscaped, it is probably the best pub or hotel garden in the entire town.

The Green Man

Burghley House Burghley Park, PE9 3JY Unmissable Elizabethan stately home (pictured above) with gardens, a deer park, café, restaurant and garden shop. web: www.burghley.co.uk tel: 01780 752451

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Due to space restrictions we’ve missed plenty of great places off this list. Let us know your favourites by emailing editorial@ greatfoodleics.co.uk

Watercolour by Graham Wright For more information on the artist, please email editorial@greatfoodleics.co.uk

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 27

Ever wante to kee d p pig bu your own t don ’t the la have nd - w the an e have swer.. .

piggy ter your f a k o lo we For a monthly fee we will do all the hard work - feeding piglet, and generally making sure he/ she has a good life in our lovely woodland. You can visit your pig if you wish, feed him, and and see what ’s involved in looking after a rarebreed porker.

At about 26 weeks old, we make the arrangements with a local, family-run, butcher to supply you with your succulent, additive-free, rare-breed pork and sausages. It ’s as easy as that! And you ’ll be helping to maintain a rare breed too.

Saddleback and Mangalitza piglets also for sale.

01780 720660 WWW.CHATERVALLEY.COM

W

e would like to welcome you to our shop in the heart of Melton Mowbray. Our aim is to bring you the finest cheese and dairy produce, much of it sourced in Leicestershire and surrounding counties; as well as the best from the UK, and a growing variety of continental cheeses.

Our cheeses from the local area include the complete Long Stilton is our speciality, ours Clawson range, Quenby Hall Stilton, is sourced directly from Long Lincolnshire Poacher, Godminster Clawson Dairy, based just five Organic Vintage Cheddar, Stafford miles outside Melton Mowbray.

Cheese from Bertelin Cheese, and nd e Sparkenhoe For a taste of th e th Farm Red om fr se best chee Leicester. ea, why not

Melton ar ? come and visit us

8 Windsor Street Melton Mowbray Leicestershire LE13 1BU Tel/Fax 01664 562257

Opening Hours Mon 9.00 – 3.0 3.00 00 Tues 8.30 – 5.0 5.00 00 Wed & Thurs 9.00 – 4.0 4.00 00 Fri & Sat 8.30 – 4.0 4.00 00

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Locally produced enjoyed by all...

WEST STREET, STAMFORD 01780 762245

ORDER A SPECIAL

12 BOTTLE TASTER CASE DRY/MEDIUM/SWEET

19/8/10 14:20:14

Local places VISIT, EAT, DRINK

WYMONDHAM

Bucolic beauty, antiques, cream teas and a fine pub

Y

ou half expect to see Julia Sawalha pursing her lips at urchins playing a noisy game of hopscotch when you arrive in Wymondham. The village’s honey-coloured ironstone cottages glow in the sun: take away the cars and you could be in the 19th century. Situated a few miles east of Melton Mowbray, years ago Wymondham would have been a popular stop-off for cattle drovers travelling from the pork pie capital to the Great North Road. Its windmill was built in 1814 and, unusually, had six sails. It hasn’t milled in anger for years but you can still climb to the top, and its shell provides a focus for a small cluster of craft shops and tea room – all of which raise the charm stakes of Wymondham yet further.

It’s understandable why most of the 600-strong population love their village. Resident Trevor Hickman, 76, has lived in Wymondham his whole life. He says: “I’ve never wished to live anywhere else. Before retiring I was offered several top promotions that would have meant moving but turned them down because I didn’t want to leave.�

Find hidden gems and curios here.

Highly rated.

Try these...

Windmill Tearooms

Butt Lane, LE14 2BU Homemade cakes, cream teas, sandwiches and snacks; plus a kids’ playground. All surrounded by two acres of native British woodland. web: www.wymondhamwindmill.co.uk tel: 01572 787304

Berkeley Arms Main Street, LE14 2AG “Simply brilliant,� says local historian Trevor Hickman. “New owner Neil Hitchen is a top-line chef.� Many agree with Trevor’s assessment. tel: 01572 787587

Old Bakery Antiques Main Street, LE14 2AG Aladdin’s Cave of a shop focusing on rural and domestic bygones, garden items and cottage antiques. tel: 01572 787472

St Peter’s Church Church Lane, LE14 2AB According to some sources, this pretty church predates 1150.

The Old Rectory Spring Lane, LE14 2AY Handsome country guesthouse accommodation with evening meals by prior arrangement. web: www.theold-rectory.co.uk tel: 01572 787583

‘Homemade cakes and sandwiches at Windmill Tearooms’

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 29

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BBQ SPECIAL

Fire & Flavour Barbecuing should be about subtle smoky flavours, mouthwatering marinades and superb ingredients, not limp, blackened burgers. Matt Gregory is your grilling guide PHOTOS: MATTHEW WRIGHT

30 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Summer cooking

U

sually it’s the pungent whiff of fire-lighters and flammable liquids that heralds the arrival of the barbecue season, but wouldn’t it be nice if it was the seductive whiff of wood smoke and meat as it sizzled happily on the grills?

The barbecue has come of age – there are more wood-fired and charcoal grills being installed in great restaurants than at any time in the past. The possibilities of extraordinary flavours are at our own fingertips at home... well, in the garden when the sun comes out, anyway. There is so much more than burnt supermarket sausages and flaccid frozen burgers to delight and tempt – we have some of the world’s finest ingredients to put to the heat. America and Australia may have the climate to perfect outdoor cooking, but we have more than a few tricks up the sleeve of our culinary heritage too.

other main ways of introducing flavour from the fire; both combust quickly, so need to be burnt in a controlled way. Even on a gas-fired barbecue you should put them in a tin before introducing to the grill.

The lid and the joy of smoke While most barbecuing is done on the grill, a large number of units now come with a lid.

This is not to keep the rain off, but to make your barbecue behave more like an oven, which is particularly useful for larger pieces of meat. It will also help to stop moisture- and thus flavour-loss, so enabling slow cooking.

The addition of aromatic herbs or sawdust will mean that you have a smoker too: close off the air vents to help stop it all bursting into flames and with practice you can enjoy a very superior barbecue experience.

Marinades

Fuels and their role in flavour As obvious as this may seem, the fuel you choose to cook over plays an enormous part in the final flavour of your barbecue. Gas-fired barbecues will burn neutrally. Lump-wood charcoal also burns fairly neutrally, but at a much higher temperature and is arguably more controllable than gas. Briquettes are a second choice, but are fine if charcoal is not

available. Hardwood logs are the ultimate in barbecue one-upmanship (short of burning your own charcoal, that is): they produce richly flavoured smoke and a controllable heat. Herbs – rosemary and bay in particular – and sawdust (hardwood only) are the two

A marinade will bring interesting flavours to your barbecue, help keep things from drying out in the heat and aid the prevention of sticking. Marinating is worth doing for so many reasons. Like a good cocktail, a marinade classically needs at least three parts, in this case oil, acidity and flavouring.

The big thing to remember is that flavour will not dissolve in oil, so everything must be mixed with the acidity first...

Spice up your barbecue Bison – A novel

alternative to beef that can be prepared in exactly the same way. Low in fat, high in protein and needs to be grilled hot and fast.

Trout – We are awash

with local reservoirs that glisten with trout. Why not catch one yourself for the full hunter-gatherer experience?

Ostrich – Even lower in

fat than chicken but ostrich is a red meat that tastes similar to beef. Wow your weight-watching friends by grilling it to perfection.

Primitive lamb

–

Diminutive sheep with extra flavour. Dense and lower in fat so needs a gentler heat or longer marinade. Ask your butcher nicely.

Crayfish – Freshwater

signal crayfish are killing our indigenous variety, so let’s eat them before they can. Throw another crayfish on the barbie.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 31

SUMMER COOKING

Strong, hot flavours.

Classic meat marinade

Salt & brown sugar cure

Rub and mop

Here, the triumvirate is lemon juice, olive oil and garlic. It’s a classic for a reason and highlights the beauty of simplicity. My alltime favourite way of using this marinade is with a shoulder of lamb, which by the time it comes off the grill is like the ultimate kebab.

Caramelised patches of scorched exterior with deeply flavoured and juicy interior.

Served with a red onion salad and some pitta bread, it’s just the finest thing.

A whole hot smoked chicken: massively impressive, stupidly easy – my kind of cooking. Follow this recipe and you’ll have a burnished bronze bird with dense, moist, smoky flesh.

Take all the trussing string off a chicken and cut through the skin at the thigh and wing joints to open the bird up. Slash each breast a couple of times and the thighs and legs almost to the bone.

Barbecue ribs: just the words on the page ought to have you drooling like Homer Simpson, but if they don’t the smell of ribs on the grill surely will.

You can use spare ribs still on the rack, or even a whole piece of belly pork, either way this is not a quick meal.

They sound simple but you need to prep the day before and look after the barbecue for as long as three or four hours while the meat slowly comes to the perfect state of just falling apart.

This will test your skills like no other as you’ll need to keep the temperature of the barbecue slow and steady with the lid down. Worth it though, I promise you.

The marinade works in two stages: a dry flavour (rub) and then wet acidity (mop); both have endless variations of ingredients.

You’ll want your favourite barbecue sauce and a simple salad for when they are ready.

Coat the meat thoroughly in the mixed dry ingredients, cover and leave at least over night in the fridge, 24 hours is good. When the meat is cooking regularly, baste with the mixed mop using a pastry brush or similar: at least once an hour, more like three times in two hours.

* 1 shoulder of lamb – boned with most of

the excess internal fat removed and cut into strips a couple of inches wide and up to 6 or 7 inches long, depending on the size of the shoulder. * 150ml olive oil * 50ml lemon juice * 10 finely chopped garlic cloves * Salt and pepper

Mix together the marinade except the oil until the salt is dissolved. Mix in the oil. Add the lamb and thoroughly coat in the marinade (use your hands). Cover and leave for a couple of hours, or as long as overnight, in the fridge. When the time comes to barbecue you can have a pretty hot grill.

Only turn the lamb just before it looks like it will burn a lot (a little is good). If you turn it too much it will stick to the grill more, so you should aim to turn each piece only three times to cook the four sides. It will benefit from 10 minutes’ rest in the coolest end of the barbecue or on a warmed plate after grilling.

* 250g table salt * 250g brown sugar * Pepper Rub the mixed cure all over the bird, getting it right into the slashing. Cover and leave in the fridge for an hour. Rinse the cure off under cold water and leave to dry on kitchen paper for half an hour. Cooking will take an hour and half with the lid down on the barbecue, coals to one side, chicken to the other. Add hardwood sawdust as often as required to get that deep, smoky flavour. If the lid is hot to touch but not scalding you’ve got it about right. Test for doneness in the usual way: juices run clear when pierced at the thickest part.

The rub

* 4tbsp smoked paprika * 2tbsp dark sugar * 1tbsp salt * 1tsp celery salt * A good grate of black pepper * 1tsp cayenne * 1tsp dry English mustard * Crushed garlic to taste (more than three cloves)

The mop Garlic: essential for a classic marinade.

CONTACTS

Bisbrooke Ostrich Farm, Ridlington, www.bisbrookostriches.co.uk, 01572 717672 Bouverie Lodge, Nether Broughton, www.bisons.org, 01664 822114

32 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Black pepper grows like this in the wild.

Gates (bbqs etc.), Cold Overton, www. gatesnurseries.co.uk, 01664 454309 Hazel Woodland Products (charcoal), Pipewell, www.hazelwoodlandproducts. co.uk, 07785 536613

* 250ml cider vinegar * Half a thinly sliced onion * 1 finely sliced chilli * 2 tsp salt * Twist of black pepper

Rutland Fly Fishing Adventures, Barnsdale, www.rutlandwaterflyfishing. co.uk, 01572 722 422 Scarborough Fayre (fishmonger), Melton Mowbray, 01664 562426

Smith’s Smokery (crayfish), various local farmers’ markets, www. smithssmokery.co.uk, 01754 820262 See p46 for Brockleby’s BBQ pack special offer.

Sunshine wines SUMMER TIPPLES

12

Light the BBQ, apply the sun lotion and pour yourself a glass. The perfect vinos for al fresco dining, selected by Ben Robson from Bat & Bottle of Oakham

34

Domaine Felines J ourdan, Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc, France ‘08.

Picpoul is the Bardot of wines: beautiful, light, and oozing style.

This is probably the best and combines mineral freshness with depth of flavour. Should your al fresco be heading toward scallops, tiger prawns and monkfish, choose this.

Bat and Bottle:01572 759735.

Duncan Murray: 01858 464935.

Finding good Portuguese isn’t always easy – the best tend to be made in tiny quantities and are only available from specialists.

It’s worth the effort, though.

The grapes may be a bit of a mouthful (this has six) but the wine can be fantastic. This is one of my old favourites, a deep, savoury, silky red that will take on the spiciest snag.

Waitrose: www.waitrose.com.

Tempranillo is Rioja’s favourite vine; this is not Rioja but a supple and drinkable red from central Spain. Imagine sunbleached windmills, huge blue skies, roasted vegetables and herb-infused lamb. This is where it has come from and this is what it was made for.

Bat and Bottle: 01572 759735.

Duncan Murray: 01858 464935.

Made by a co-operative of growers in the ‘Grand Cru’ village of Mesnil-sur-Oger, also home to the iconic Krug Clos du Mesnil (ÂŁ400) and Salon Le Mesnil (ÂŁ200). Beautiful and elegant.

Bat and Bottle, Duncan Murray, George of Stamford (House Champagne): 01780 750750; Waitrose: www.waitrose.com.

6

5

Zaleo, Tempranillo, Ribera del Guadiana, Spain ‘09.

Champagne Le Mesnil, Grand Cru, Champagne, France.

Welland Valley Steeplechase, Vintage Brut, Market Harborough, England‘06.

5 ÂŁ1

r fo 6 ÂŁ3 six

A vine that has swept down from Italy’s Collio into the hearts of England! Our love for this fresh dry white has meant too many drinkers and not enough vineyards. And the Italians have been adept in overcoming such shortfalls, so careful selection pays dividends. Great with antipasti.

Bat and Bottle:01572 759735.

Duncan Murray: 01858 464935.

99 9. ÂŁ2

0 .5 ÂŁ9

Tinto da Anfora, Alentejano, Portugal ‘06.

6 .2 ÂŁ7

0 .9 ÂŁ6

Botter, Pinot Grigro, Veneto, Italy ‘09.

Tiny quantities of this are made by David Bates at his Marston Trussell vineyard. It’s made the same way as champagne and offers raison shortbread aromas, with apricot and apple crumble flavours.

Welland Valley: 01858 434591.

Farndon Fields Farmshop: 01858 464838.

BEN ROBSON

Ben runs specialist Italian wine importers Bat & Bottle, Unit 5, 19 Pillings Road, Oakham, Rutland LE15 6QF. 01572 759735, 07809 828662, www.batwine.co.uk

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Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 33

SLOW FOOD Sarah Lyon Professional cook, food writer and leader of Slow Food Rutland and Lincs, Sarah lives in Stamford and makes a mean crème brÝlÊe

The Slow Food Page

So what’s the Slow Food movement all about? By Sarah Lyon

S

ome of you might have heard of the Slow Food movement. Others will have no idea what it is. Let me explain. The Slow Food movement aims to promote, discover and celebrate all that is good about local foods, and how to enjoy them at their best.

Members believe everyone has a right to food that is Good (tastes good), Clean (should not harm the environment, animal welfare or our health) and Fair (food producers should be fairly compensated).

There are 100,000 SF members in 150 countries. Here in the UK there are 56 convivia (groups) with 2,000 members and growing. The SF UK office is located at Neal’s Yard in Covent Garden, London. Our local group, which focuses on Rutland and Lincolnshire – Leicestershire does not yet have its own convivium – tries to promote culinary heritage and raise the profile of our local producers. We organise a list of food-related events throughout the year and attend farm open days and festivals, delivering our enthusiasm and message across the region. A visit to a working windmill with a bread demonstration using locally milled flour, cheese making, foraging and natural bee-keeping are all issues of interest. We aim to get everyone sharing, talking, appreciating and supporting local food.

The Ark of Taste The SF Ark of Taste aims to draw attention to and preserve excellent food and drink products that are disappearing.

Woodlands Farm’s Lincoln Longwool sheep recently joined the celebrated list of UK Ark products. The Lincoln Longwool, which is indigenous to Lincolnshire, can be traced back to the 1750s. It provides lamb and mutton as well as wool. The Longwools at Woodlands are raised on pasture that receives no artificial fertilizers or herbicides and their feed contains no genetically modified organisms.

Woodlands maintains a nucleus flock for sales as well as for breeding (www.woodlandsfarm.co.uk, 01205 724778).

Lincoln Longwools: wonderful fringes.

THIS ISSUE’S SLOW FOOD HERO Slow Food Rutland & Lincolnshire member Andrew Dennis of Woodlands Farm, Boston, Lincolnshire, is the current holder of the BBC Radio 4 Farmer of the Year award. On winning, Andrew said: “It was great being nominated by a member of the public. It makes it feel as if we’re on track. And that’s a nice feeling!�

BBC Radio 4 presenter Sheila Dillon, who hosted the awards ceremony, asked Andrew what it was he wanted people to leave the farm with. Andrew’s reply was: “A sense of wonder for the growing capacity of the miracle of the land�.

Andrew farms in such a way as to bring himself and the farm closer to the public. The farm offers an organic fruit and vegetable box scheme home delivery service, organic meats from the farm’s rare Lincolnshire breeds, turkeys and Lincolnshire Buff eggs. Woodlands provides residencies for artists and runs themed poetry and education days for school children and older people, all of which helps foster and enhance a sense of community. Sheila Dillon described it as “mixed farming on a grand scale with a social purpose�. Andrew added: “I think of my father and dedicate this award to him. Without his legacy it wouldn’t have happened. And it certainly wouldn’t have been possible without farm manager Adrian Johnson and the team at Woodlands. It’s been a truly joint effort.�

How to join Slow Food By joining Slow Food you help support the growth of the movement and its projects – in developing countries and here in the UK. For more information about Slow Food UK and Slow Food International, go to www.slowfood.org.uk.

You can join online or by calling 0207 0991132. Family membership costs ÂŁ45 per year.

CONTACT For more information on Slow Food Rutland & Lincolnshire, contact Sarah at sarah.food@googlemail.com or call 01780 753772.

Andrew Dennis receives his Farmer of the Year award from cheesemaking musician Alex James.

Coming next in the Slow Food diary...

Thursday, July 29: Tasting at Jimmy’s Charcuterie & Smokehouse.

Head chef James Goss from the King’s Arms (Wing in Rutland, see p23) will offer his own home-smoked charcuterie beef (Hambleton Dexter), venison (Exton), bresoala, and air-dried Leicestershire mutton as part of this tasting menu evening. £30 per person. Call Sarah on 01780 753772 to secure a place.

34 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

VORZ IRRG PZ LQGG

Recipe

Angela Goodger’s boozy summer pudding Serves 6

* 850ml pudding basin * 115g blackcurrants * 230g redcurrants * 450g raspberries & strawberries * 140g golden caster sugar * Three tablespoons of Angela’s

favourite liqueur, cassis (optional).

If used, adjust sugar accordingly as cassis is very sweet * 7-8 slices slightly stale bread

1 If necessary, separate blackcurrants and redcurrants from their stalks – hold fruit firmly by the stalk and run a fork down the stem, sliding the berries off between the prongs. Wash all fruit.

2 Tip sugar into a saucepan, add cassis and two tablespoons of water, then put the pan onto a low heat, stirring all the time. Cook until sugar has dissolved, then turn up the heat to medium high and let the mixture bubble for five minutes. It will go quite syrupy. Take it off the heat before it burns.

3 Add redcurrants and blackberries to the syrup and bring it back to a good simmer. Let it bubble for one minute, then take off the heat.

4 Stir in the strawberries and raspberries, but be gentle so that they don’t break up.

5 Let mixture rest for about half an hour so all the juices mingle together.

6 Cut off all the bread’s crusts.

7 Lightly butter pudding basin and line with the bread. Don’t leave gaps.

8 Now pour the fruit and juices into the bowl, retaining about two thirds of a cup full. Then cover the top of the pudding with another piece of bread, making sure you seal it.

9 Put a small plate on top of the bowl, and on top of that place a weight. Put the pudding into the fridge overnight, or for at least five hours.

10 Just before you serve the pudding

turn it upside down onto a plate and, using the reserved fruit and juices, cover any pieces of bread that were not stained by the fruit while the pudding was in the fridge. Cut into wedges and serve with either thick double cream or ice cream.

Angela says: “If you want to get creative, alter the type of bread you use: try a fruit loaf or honey and nut variety. Serve the pudding with cinnamon-flavoured ice cream – one we sell is made by Ringswood Farm (www.ringswood.co.uk) from near Rugby. It’s delicious. This summer pudding is definitely going on the specials board in our tea room.�

Angela and Martyn Goodger run Oakdale Farm Shop and Barn Tea Rooms, Melton Road, Rearsby LE7 4YS, 01664 424300.

“Try using fruit loaf instead of traditional bread�

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 35

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JAN McCOURT

OPINION

Did we really do that?

Jan McCourt travels to the future and looks back

Dear Diary

My 100th birthday! Crisp, blue sky. Not a vapour trail in the sky, just like back in 2010 when the airplanes first stopped flying.

Garden still parched. Even now, after such a long time, I find it tough to accustom myself to these endless lazy summer days. They start so early and finish so late with winter now just a brief, but vicious, interlude.

The butterflies have grown so large in the last few years and the birds seem ever more exotic.

The excitement for me, though, was seeing my great grandchildren. My children have always stayed close geographically and emotionally. Dreams of travelling around the world faded over the last few decades as nations gradually turned in on themselves. The days of cheap food have long gone. While in many ways a blessing in terms of quality, the rarity value of food has increased with each passing year.

Young members of my family like to come to the farm and ask me what life was like in the ‘olden days’. My own children used to ask me that when I was still in my 30s and 40s, and I would laugh at their perception of time. Now, I still laugh, but for different reasons.

I laugh because so much behaviour that we thought normal and so many things we took for granted 50 years ago now seem either ridiculous or unbelievable.

So I sat down, on my 100th birthday, surrounded by my family, young and old, and talked of how foolish we all were just half a century ago. In the early part of

the 21st century we completed the pillage of our planet which had begun only about 100 years earlier.

From the late 1990s we grew accustomed to flying to the other side of the world for a fraction of the cost of a short-distance train journey. We accepted that banks could pay their employees vast sums in return for taking risks so huge the bank’s leaders couldn’t understand them. We treated it as normal that oil companies could drill for oil in marine locations without giving any consideration to the ramifications of the possible rupture of a pipeline.

We became lazy in all things.

We ceased to take risks in the real world and cosseted our children so that they became fat, lazy and ill. We lost all sense of perspective.

In earlier times, when man decided to embark on any activity, like crossing the road or cutting down a tree, he measured all the associated risks, and in doing so explored the real cost of that action. As we settled into lives increasingly removed from reality, we lost understanding of how to measure risk.

Food became valued only by its cost at the point of last purchase.

Its effect on jobs, environment, health and culture were left out of the equation. Travel, technology, entertainment, luxury, clothing, construction, culture – all these things came to be measured in the same limited way.

Nature has a way of balancing things out. The seismic shifts that cut the underground cables so vital to the global web of

Will we appreciate locally grown food more in future years?

“Food became valued only by its cost at the point of last purchase. Its effect on jobs, environment health and more were left out of the equation.�

communication went the way of air travel. Today, we have not been deprived of the wonders of either the internet or international travel, we just appreciate them more, and rely on them less. Local food has finally started to be valued. Education, and culture, community and family values are reasserting themselves.

Looking back, it turns out that we were measuring everything in terms of price. Our lives had become dominated by short-term shareholder mentality. A search for the quick gain, the immediate fix. In doing so, we’d come to know the notional price of everything, but we’d failed to pay any heed to the real cost or value of anything. jan@northfieldfarm.com

JAN McCOURT Jan set up award-winning Northfield Farm after working in the City of London: Northfield Farm, Whissendine Lane, Cold Overton, Leicestershire LE15 7QF, www.northfieldfarm.com, 01664 474271

36 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

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Recipe

Lilli Ansell’s Summer Smoothie Serves 2

* 14 local raspberries * 6 local strawberries * Juice of one orange * Half a banana * 100ml organic whole milk * 6 tbsp Thrussington yoghurt * 1 tbsp Leicestershire or Rutland honey * Half tsp vanilla extract * 6 ice cubes This recipe is from Chris and Lilli Ansell of Kirby Bellars, near Melton Mowbray. Says Chris: “Just pop all of the ingredients into a blender and blitz it up for a refreshing, healthy summer smoothie. I make it for Lilli, my four-year-old daughter, every Saturday evening. She loves it. We often get our fruit from Wymeswold Pick-Your-Own down the road, and use thick, creamy yoghurt from Manor Farm, Thrussington, and local honey.�

Lilli enjoying her smoothie.

Contacts Manor Farm, Thrussington: 01664 424245 Wymeswold PYO: 01509 880230

“Blitz it all up for a refreshing, healthy summer fruits smoothie�

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 37

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HOME COOKING Danny Jimminson Danny is head chef and owner of the Hammer & Pincers, Wymeswold. When he’s not cooking or putting on cookery demonstrations, he’s out in the countryside foraging for ingredients.

Seasonal food with a sting Turn pesky stingers into tasty dinners, recommends Danny Jimminson, and offers a crème brÝlÊe recipe for good measure

I

Toasted almond crème brÝlÊe with prunes d’Agen

n July everything has come to life: summer berries are ready to be picked, dandelions are in endless supply but it’s stinging nettles that take pride of place on our menus right now. They are one of those ingredients that will always get people talking: nettles have a deliciously mild citrus flavour that marries very well with peas. The peas add body to nettle soup and help keep the colour nice and bright.

So where do you look for good nettles? Well, it’s easier to say where not too look! They are everywhere, just find a good crop, wear rubber gloves and pick away. Only take the leaf, not the stalk, and wash before use. Don’t worry about the sting, the acid is neutralised during cooking.

Serves 4 For the brĂťlĂŠe * 600ml double cream * 50ml milk * 8 egg yolks * 120g sugar * 2 vanilla pods * 100g flaked almonds * caster sugar for topping

regular pitted variety

* 100ml Armagnac * 12 biscotti biscuits

1 Soak the prunes in Armagnac for at least 24 hours.

2 Toast the almonds and add them to the milk and cream.

Cut the vanilla pod in half and scrape the seeds from the shell. Add both the pod and the seeds to the cream mix.

3 Simmer the mix for ten minutes. Allow to cool before passing it through a sieve and on to the eggs. Mix well.

4 Pour the mix into your brÝlÊe moulds and bake in a bainmarie (French name for a water bath – we use a deep baking tray with water in it) for one hour at 130C (Gas 1-2) until set.

5 Allow to cool before dusting with caster sugar and glazing with a blow-torch. Serve with the Armagnac-soaked prunes and slices of biscotti.

Nettle soup Serves 4

* 500g frozen peas * 200g picked nettle leaves * 1 medium white onion * 1 clove garlic, crushed * 1l vegetable or chicken stock 1 Slice the onion and cook in butter with the crushed garlic.

2 Once the onion is soft, add the water and stock cube and bring to a rapid boil. Add the peas and nettles to the stock and cook for just five minutes, with a lid on.

3 Blend in a bar blender till smooth, now pass through a fine sieve, adjust the seasoning and serve with the Chantilly.

For the garnish

* 200g prunes d’Agen or

Nettles have a mild citrus flavour.

Chive Chantilly Serves 4

* Half a bunch chives, finely chopped * 50g finely grated Parmesan * 1 medium white onion * 100ml double or whipping cream Whip the cream to soft peaks and fold the chives and parmesan through the mix. Refrigerate before serving.

COOKING MASTERCLASSES Danny offers cooking masterclasses in your home. He’ll teach you and guests what you’d like to know and base a three-course menu around the lesson. He’ll even clean up! For more information go to www.hammerandpincers.co.uk or call the restaurant.

HAMMER & PINCERS 5 East Road, Wymeswold, Loughborough LE12 6ST, 01509 880735

Danny says: “Cooking the brĂťlĂŠe slowly gives you a lovely creamy texture. Too hot and it will curdle.â€?

38 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

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Recipe

Sandra Herbert’s Eton Mess Serves 4

* 300ml whipping cream * 1 tbsp fine sugar * 100g ready-made meringue * 450g fresh summer berries (including strawberries)

* 1 tbsp icing sugar * 1 tbsp Cointreau (optional)

5 Place the cream mixture into a 7-inch glass serving dish, top with the strawberry pieces, chill for 30 minutes in the fridge and sprinkle with the icing sugar before serving.

You can spice things up by adding a bit of Cointreau!

Sandra says: “Eton Mess is quick 1 Lace the whipping cream in a large to put together and pretty much mixing bowl, add sugar and whip foolproof, making it perfect for busy until light and fluffy. Do not over people. However, if you do have whip – the success of Eton Mess plenty of time then I recommend depends on softly whipped cream. picking your own summer berries.

2 Break the meringue into large, “Using fresh seasonal strawberries bite-size chucks and gently stir into – and other summer fruit if you want – the whipped cream. Don’t worry if makes Eton Mess even more yummy.� some of the meringue crumbles – add this too.

Sandra Herbert makes a large 3 Set aside a good number of range of traditional jams – branded strawberries and place the rest of Sandra’s Jams – using fruit grown the berries into another mixing on her farm. are sold at farm Please check thislarge proof carefully and They confi rm that it is correct by return email to Moira Pritchard, bowl. Press with the back of a fork to shops throughout the m.pritchard@bournepublishinggroup.co.uk orregion calland 01780 766199. break them up and release some also at Whetstone Pastures Farm, However, if you do require any amendments, please notify us within 2 days of receipt of this email. juice. Stir gently into the cream.

Whetstone, Leicestershire We CANNOT be held responsible for0116 any2774627 mistakes once authorisation has been given.

4 Halve, then quarter the remaining LE8 6LX, strawberries. www.whetstonepasturesfarm.com

Advertisement Proof

Come and sit in our secret garden, or enjoy our beautiful, modern coffee shop.

Enjoy the delicious evening bistro.

Here’s what one customer had to say; “the bistro is fantastic, top quality food, 5 star service, can’t wait to come back again� Louise Boyd 30th April 2010 37 St Mary’s Street, Stamford PE9 2DF.

Telephone 01780 754222 www.thefinefoodstore.com

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 39

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CHEESE TALK

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Stilton cheese

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All hail The King

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Blue Stilton is regarded as royalty for good reason, says Tim Brown

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CONTACTS The Melton Cheeseboard, 8 Windsor Street, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 1BU, www.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk, 01664 562257.

Long Clawson Dairy, www.clawson.co.uk, 01664 822332.

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notably Jim, who has over 30 years’ experience.

We sell Stilton at 12-13 weeks old, as it is just reaching its peak and will continue to develop for another three to four weeks.

A good Stilton should have a clean, dry, uncracked coat, and the cheese should be creamy coloured, not white,

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Tim Brown in The Melton Cheeseboard.

with even blue veining up to the edge.

A mature cheese should be soft and creamy, with a delicious salty tang.

The traditional accompaniment to Blue Stilton is, of course, port, and I see no reason to argue with this. A robust red wine also works well.

Stilton is great for sauces and soups too. My favourite is to make a leek and potato soup, and blend in some Stilton.

This is a great way of using up leftovers, and you can use the crust as well, so nothing is wasted.

The Stilton Cheesemakers’ Association has produced some new recipes at www.stiltoncheese.com.

Or visit our shop for a set of the recipe cards.

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hat better way to start the first of my cheese columns than by focusing on Blue Stilton, the King of English Cheeses?

Stilton can only be made in Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire or Derbyshire, and is one of only a handful of British foods with legally protected designation of origin status.

Six dairies make Blue Stilton: four in Leics and two in Notts. Of course, the best Stiltons are made in Leics!

I confess to a slight bias because our shop, the Melton Cheeseboard, sells more Stilton than any other single-site shop in the country. Our best-seller is from Long Clawson Dairy, made only four miles away.

The key to a good Stilton is maturity.

Some cheese sold in supermarkets is underdeveloped, chalky and bitter.

Our Stiltons are matured and graded by an excellent team at the dairy,

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At Lubcloud Dairy, our herd of happy and d healthy organic cows graze out in fields that have had no fertilisers or chemicals used on them. The food that they eat is fully traceable and non GM, and the milk and cream that they produce is bottled here on the farm, resulting in a wonderful, fresh product. We have also chosen not to homogenise our milk or cream, leaving everything as pure as it can be, just as nature intended.

When you buy Lubcloud Dairy products, you are not only supporting local business, as we are organic, you are also supporting the environment too.

BUY FRESH, BUY LOCAL For more information and details of stockists:

www.lubclouddairy.co.uk w www.lubclouddair w bc Teleep Te Tel epphone: hone: 01509 015 1 09 505055 Telephone:

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e would like to welcome you to our shop in the heart of Melton Mowbray. Our aim is to bring you the finest cheese and dairy produce, much of it sourced in Leicestershire and surrounding counties; as well as the best from the UK, and a growing variety of continental cheeses.

Our cheeses from the local area include the complete Long Stilton is our speciality, ours Clawson range, Quenby Hall Stilton, is sourced directly from Long Lincolnshire Poacher, Godminster Clawson Dairy, based just five Organic Vintage Cheddar, Stafford miles outside Melton Mowbray.

Cheese from Bertelin nd Cheese, and F Sparkenhoe )PS B UBTUF PG UI F UI Farm Red PN GS F FT IF CFTU D Leicester.

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8 Windsor Street Melton Mowbray Leicestershire LE13 1BU Tel/Fax 01664 562257

Opening Hours Mon 9.00 – 3.0 3.00 00 00 Tues 8.30 – 5.0 5.00 00 Wed & Thurs 9.00 – 4.0 4.00 Fri & Sat 8.30 – 4.0 4.00 00

www.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk oard d co uk k 40 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

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Jam and preserve-making Rosemary Jameson Rosemary produces preserves under her own label ‘From The Country Larder’. She sells jam jars and kits via Oakhambased www.jamjarshop.com and is founder of The Guild of Jam and Preserve Makers.

Join the preservation society Time to get stuck into some jam and preserve-making – there’s more to it than you might imagine, says Rosemary Jameson

A

Courgette and mint chutney

fter a lifetime of making jams and preserves I am excited to be writing about the subject – which is paradoxically complex and basic at the same time. A skill born from a need to feed ourselves – to preserve the harvest or face starvation – it has evolved into a hobby for many, but no less satisfying for that. What greater pleasure than to squirrel away jars representing the recent past, to be opened with memories? It’s the perfect present, too, as the receiver knows a gift you have made yourself is not done lightly. I hope to bring you the highs of making preserves, the fun of discovery, as there is always something new to learn, and lots of delicious produce.

To make around eight or nine large jars

* 2.5kgs courgettes, unpeeled but sliced * 500g onions, chopped * 500g green beans, chopped * 500g white sugar * 2 teaspoons ground ginger * 2 tablespoons black mustard seeds * 1 teaspoon fennel seeds * 1 pint/500ml distilled malt vinegar * Salt * Large bowl of mint, finely chopped

The Guild of Jam & Preserve Makers

The Guild provides info for hands-on jam fans and a framework through which members can communicate. Its eco-friendly SwapCrop scheme puts fruit and veg growers with excess produce in touch with ingredient-hungry preserve makers. Membership enables you to take part fully in the Guild’s activities. Visit www.jamguild.com or call 0844 80408545 for more details.

SPECIA L O

TAKE AFFER! OF AN DVANTAGE EX JAM-MACLUSIVE K KIT DEAING SEE BEL L. OW

With its light, refreshing flavour, I devised this chutney for my own wedding to accompany a lamb roast and salads. I am sure that you will find it is a crowd pleaser, just as we did.

1. Sprinkle the courgettes with salt and leave overnight to draw out excess moisture.

2. The following day, rinse with cold water and drain thoroughly. Mix all the ingredients together – except the mint – and simmer gently until reduced and soft.

3. Add half the chopped mint and cook gently for 30 mins.

4. Add remainder of the mint and stir thoroughly.

5. Put into warmed, sterilised jars and seal immediately.

NB. Eat within 12 months and refrigerate once open.

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Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 41

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LOCAL FOOD HISTORY

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STORY HI

Stilton cheese

STORY HI

The catalyst for Blue Stilton’s rise to fame was a charismatic pub landlord, cheering crowds and a very brave 500-guinea bet.

By Rupert Matthews

The great Stilton gamble OOD •F

T

he good folk of Little Dalby, Leicestershire, might say that Stilton cheese was first made there in 1710 by a Mrs Orton. Like any farmer’s wife back then, Mrs Orton made cheese for her family from milk produced by her own cows. One day a batch of cheese turned out crumbly and veined with blue instead of being creamy and white. Mrs Orton had no idea that the change had been wrought by a mould getting into the cheese. She thought that the grass in her field had magical properties.

Soon other farmers’ wives were making blue cheese.

Another story has it that Stilton was created by Mrs Frances Pawlett (or Paulet) of Wymondham. Mrs Pawlett had no time for the methods of farm kitchens. Instead she instituted rigorously standardised methods to be used by the women working in her dairy. Through a process of trial and error, hard work and careful record-keeping, Mrs Pawlett discovered a method that turned out delicious and lightly crumbly blue cheese – the modern Stilton.

Whether Stilton was invented by one person or, more likely, evolved through the work of many, it is certain that by 1742 Mrs Pawlett was turning it out in large quantities.

Enter Cooper Thornhill One man impressed by Mrs Pawlett’s cheese was Cooper Thornhill, the landlord of the Bell Inn at Stilton, Cambridgeshire. He was an enterprising innkeeper with a flair for publicity and marketing. His Bell Inn was one of the busiest and most prestigious of the many inns on the Great North Road where the stagecoaches halted to change horses and allow customers to grab a meal.

42 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Thornhill was always on the look out for a new sensation to pull in the customers. Around 1744 he came across Mrs Pawlett and her blue cheese. Thornhill bought large quantities of the blue cheese and began serving it at the Bell.

He had first persuaded Mrs Pawlett not to sell the cheese to any other inns on the Great North Road so that his inn alone could boast this wonderful food.

Then Thornhill hit on a new way to increase custom. He announced that he could ride from the Bell to Shoreditch, London, back to the Bell and then once more to Shoreditch all in the daylight hours of a single day. Nobody believed he could cover the 213 miles in the time, so he offered to put his money where his mouth was and began taking bets. Before long he had staked 500 guineas – a huge sum – on success.

At 4.15am the independent judge saw the sun peep over the eastern horizon and sent Thornhill on his way. For hours, Thornhill galloped up and down the Great North Road, changing horses 19 times and cheered on by great crowds along the way. When he finally tore into Shoreditch for the second time in the late afternoon there were some 4,000 people waiting for him. Thornhill won his bet, pocketed the 500 guineas and went home.

The fame of the Bell Inn and the wonderful Stilton cheese that it sold was assured.

WHY NOT READ....

Rupert Matthews is author of Leicestershire Food & Drink. For more cheese-focused reading, try The History of Stilton Cheese by Wymondham resident Trevor Hickman.

Stilton cheese

Stilton on Horseback

This is a smashing summer dish that works as canapĂŠs to be passed around at a drinks party, or as a tasty lunch. It is best with slightly older Stilton, as the cheese acquires a smoother texture as it ages. It is, of course, a variation on the traditional classic Devils on Horseback. An advantage to this dish is that it can be prepared up to 24 hours in advance and then grilled at the last minute. If you are using it as a lunch dish, it should satisfy four people if served with bread and butter.

Serves 4

* 170g Stilton mature cheese, rind removed, cut into 16 pieces

* 2 stalks celery, thinly sliced * 16 large pitted prunes, no need to soak * 220g bacon cut into thin strips about 3 inches long

Stilton is left to mature for 12-13 weeks.

1 Make a cut down the side of each prune, insert a piece of Blue Stilton and wedge in with slices of celery.

2 Wrap each prune in a strip of bacon and set onto a rack ready for grilling.

Allow 10-12 minutes under a moderate grill, turning once.

3 Serve warm.

A good Stilton should be creamy and have an uncracked coat.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;To increase custom Thornhill bet 500 guineas on successâ&#x20AC;?

Enjoy great food Leicestershire & Rutland 55

COCKTAIL RECIPE

The Ryrko Matt Gregoryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

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Advertisement Proof

check this proof confirm that it is correct Please check this proof carefully and confirm that it isPlease correct by return emailcarefully to Moira and Pritchard, 1 measure (50ml) Krupnik m.pritchard@bournepublishinggroup.co.uk or call 01780 7661 * m.pritchard@bournepublishinggroup.co.uk or call 01780 766199. honey vodka However, if you do require any amendments, However, if you do require any amendments, please notify us within 2 days of receipt of this email. please notify us w 4 of 5 dried cranberries Where to buy?

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Place the cranberries in the bottom of a champagne flute, cover with the Krupnik vodka and top up with Prosecco. There you have it â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s elegantly simple,â&#x20AC;? says Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland contributor Matt Gregory. â&#x20AC;&#x153;However, if you havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t got any Krupnik, you will have to make your own.â&#x20AC;? Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a recipe...

* 1 cup honey * 1 cup water * 4 cinnamon sticks * 6 cloves * 1 vanilla pod * 1 teaspoon of orange peel * Pinch of nutmeg * 350ml vodka

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Krupnik is available online at www.thewhisky exchange.com but you can also create your own version...

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1 Bring honey and water to the boil. Add cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla and orange peel. Simmer for 15 minutes.

2 Add vodka, stir, heat through.

3 Remove from heat, allow to cool, strain through a fine muslin and bottle.

Refrigerate before using in The Ryrko.

Mixologist Matt says: â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Prosecco takes on a golden glow from the honey and the cranberries bob in the bubbles, slowly staining the whole lot slightly pink. This cocktail came about when my sister in-law moved to Poland five years ago.â&#x20AC;?

USEFUL CONTACTS Leicestershire & Rutland Bee Keepers Association (honey): www.lrbka.org, 01572 767402 Sysonby Knoll (honey): Melton, www.sysonby.com, 01664 563563 Or ask at your farm shop (see p64).

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The Berkeley Arms Wymondham Excellent Locally Sourced Food â&#x20AC;˘ Cask Ales Fine Wines â&#x20AC;˘ A warm welcome awaits you

To book call Neil & Louise on: 01572 787587 44 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Local beer

Advertisement Scorching local brews Proof

Please check this proof carefully and confirm that it is correct b

Leicestershire & Rutland have some fine breweries.

Here are three local tips for summer m.pritchard@bournepublishinggroup.co.uk or call 01780 766199

However, if you do require any amendments, please notify us wit We CANNOT be held responsible for any mistakes once authorisa

Gold, Three Tigers, Inclined Plane, Grainstore Brewery, Everards Langton Brewery, Advertisement Proof Oakham 4.5% ABV Brewery, Thorpe Langton Please check this proof carefully and confirm that it is correct byABV return email to Moira Pritchard, 4.2% Leicester or call 01780 766199. m.pritchard@bournepublishinggroup.co.uk Tony Davis from the Grainstore

4% ABV

combined with subtle floral aromas and flavour. Saaz hops give a smooth bitterness – Saaz is a ‘noble’ hop [meaning low in bitterness, high in aroma] from the Czech Republic famous for its use in Pilsner beers.

Surprisingly easy to drink, Gold has the moreishness expected of Grainstore Brewery beers.”

Available from: The Grainstore Brewery and selected local pubs, www.grainstore brewery.com, 01572 770065

“Specially brewed to mark the World Cup, Three Tigers was named by the public following a competition. It’s a rich, ruby-coloured ale with floral, fruity characteristics complemented by a delicate caramel and chocolateroast flavour. The bitterness is smooth and mellow and the aftertaste slightly sweet.

Available throughout July.”

Available from: Selected Everards pubs, www.everards.co.uk, 0116 2014100

However, do require any amendments, please notify usDavid within 2 days of receipt of this email.

Brewery says:if“Ayou refreshing, light, Dyson of Langton Brewery We CANNOT be held responsible for any has beenbitter given.

Everards says: mistakes once authorisation golden brew with mellow sweetness says: “A straw-coloured with a citrus nose and long hoppy finish, lovely to drink in the summer. First brewed for the Leicester Beer Festival, it proved so popular that it is now a regular brew.”

Beer-quaffing Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland correspondent Matt Gregory agrees: “It’s bright and zesty, in the style of India Pale Ale. On the palate, hops take centre stage, but with sound background warmth. Refreshing.”

Available from: Langton Brewery, www.langtonbrewery.co.uk, 07840 532 826; Duncan Murray Wines (www.duncanmurraywines.co.uk).

Hather d e k ic Brewery

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Going strong for over 10 years

If you’re having a party why not have a cask* from us for as little as £1-30 a pint, with free loan of a handpump and glasses, and we’ll even personalise the pump clip for you!

CRAFT CR C RA RAF AF FT CIDER CIID C DE ER ER ORIGINATED ORIG OR IGIN IGIN INA AT TED ED FROM FR RO OM OM THE TH T HE OLD OL O LD MILL MIILL M LL WOODNEWTON WOO WO WOOD OD DNE NEWT WTO ON N

(*cask = 36 or 72 pints) All bottled beers and ciders are available from: Six Acres Garden Centre Deli in Costock, Normanton on Soar Community Store, Dilips Megabooze in Shepshed, Deliflavour in Stoneygate, Hathern Post Office, The Offie in Leicester and

Locally produced enjoyed by all...

WEST STREET, STAMFORD 01780 762245

Melton Wines in Melton.

For more details call Sean on 07973 754 236 or email sean.oneill@escapade-rs.com

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 45

A deliciously different experience.

11 Market Place, Oakham, Rutland LE15 6DT

Free Delicious Dessert

Come and visit us during the day for a relaxing coffee and nibble on our selection of home made cakes that have become famous in Stamford.

Our bake house is constantly producing cakes to order, including many novelty designs.

With all Friday Night Bookings when a starter and main course is purchased

Come and try our Fantastic New Menu!

We can now offer you a new evening experience with our evening bistro. Bring your own favourite bottle of wine and enjoy some of the freshest ingredients that our region has to offer.

Prepared expertly by our head chef Liam Chettle.

BURGHLEY WEEKEND Bookings are now being taken for Burghley Weekend, extra tables are available in the marquee in The Secret Garden.

Now Open from Tuesday to Saturday Lunch 12 - 2.30 Dinner 6 - 10

37 St Mary’s Street, Stamford PE9 2DS Bistro Bookings & Coffee Shop enquiries: 01780 754222 Cake enquiries: 01780 762978 www.thefinefoodstore.com

To book call 01572 723199 stating ‘Great Food Offer’ PS. TAPAS NIGHT EVERY TUESDAY - 3 FOR THE PRICE OF 2

AT

W

ING HALL FARM SHOP HOP offers a unique selection of fresh, local and specially selected produce from the local area and further afield. With fresh bread baked by the renowned Hambleton Bakery delivery each day; conserves and chutneys from the ‘Pickled Village’ of nearby Bulwick and meat from herds known personally to the butcher, the shop is more than a local service, it’s a gourmet destination in its own right.

Among the ‘must try’ products are the specialty chocolates from Holdsworth; the delicious Lubcloud Organic milk and cream and Belvoir Brewery’s local ales. Other products

worth wor t a mention th meen me ntion nt n ion in ncl clu lu ude an Ita talia lian lia n include Italian range direct from Italian suppliers (think tinned baby tomatoes, bursting with flavour or wild boar ragu – perfect for the silky spaghetti or pasta also on offer); local paté in a range of flavours and the homemade lemon curd – irresistible! Our homemade cakes and free-range eggs are also perennial favourites.

However, beyond the specially selected produce and wine, the unusual cheese board and the local cider and real ales, the shop offers an even rarer part of today’s shopping experience – a stunning location and attentive, courteous customer service.

AND

M O RE THAN JU ST A FARM S H O P!

As part part ooff the the ffam amily ily-ow -ow wned d and aan family-owned run Wing Hall Estate, the Farm Shop is part of a long tradition of diversification at Wing Hall (still owned by the same family that built this Victorian Manor House in the 1880s), including a café-bar, snug holiday cottages and coarse fishing lakes, and this helps inspire the personal approach visitors and regular customers alike have come to expect.

For special occasions, the Hall itself can be hired for Weddings, conferences, private and corporate events Clement Worrall (based on the Estate), can tailor an event to your brief and budget.

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.WINGHALL.CO.UK  TEL. 00 44 0 1572 737 090

FOR WEDDINGS, CORPORATE OR PRIVATE EVENTS VISIT WWW.CLEMENTWORRALL.COM  TEL. 00 440 207 261 1950

p35_GF_SeptOct10.indd Sec1:35

19/8/10 14:11:25

Baking

A local loaf How Tim Hart, owner of Hambleton Bakery, went in search of the perfect local loaf

WORDS: TIM HART

T

raditional ways are not always best. But in bread making there is no contest. Modern bread has only one advantage. It is cheap to make. For taste, nutrition and digestion, the bread you could have bought from a baker in any Rutland or Leicestershire village in 1810 was streets ahead of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s offerings from the factories.

We all like the price of factory bread.

Some people like the soft, moist texture but unless you add nuts, seeds, caramel or other flavourings it is tasteless and, for many, indigestible.

Hambleton Master Baker Julian Carter and I started the Hambleton Bakery because we were mad about traditional bread and felt that a significant and growing minority were ready for something better than their supermarket loaf. We perfected our recipe for sourdough using French flours but wanted to research and reproduce the bread that England made in the pre-industrial age.

We started with local flour and we are lucky to have more than one mill producing stoneground organic flour in our region.

Bread-making needs yeast and nowadays itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to get some. Huge

manufacturers use a precise process to produce strains that can be depended on to work hard and fast. Before 1900 this product was hard to find and before 1850 impossible.

So how did the village baker in our area make his bread before 1850? The answer is that they developed their own â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;startersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; from relatively mild wild strains of yeast in a variety of ways.

Generally, the simplest way was to

respects. First the yeast dose was low and worked slowly. Second the flour used was not stripped of its germ and important nutrients (as in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s roller mills). Third, no additives or preservatives were required. Flour, salt, water and yeast were the only ingredients needed.

The baking process was different too. Our traditional wood-fired oven doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just save electricity. It gives our

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Each village baker had his own yeast strain, which he borrowed from the local brewerâ&#x20AC;? borrow some yeast from the local brewer. The starter was then fed with a mixture which might contain molasses, mashed potato or other starchy ingredients, as well as flour.

When the yeasty brew was vigorous enough it could be added to dough to leaven it. Some of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dough was kept back to help leaven tomorrowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dough. The yeasty starter was fed and re-used daily. Each village baker had his own yeast strain and his own starter recipe.

The traditional bread-making process is different from the modern process in three fundamental

local loaf a crust thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quite different to that obtained in our electric oven. So we really think we are offering bread with the delicious taste that our ancestors enjoyed.

HAMBLETON BAKERY Hambleton Bakery has shops in Oakham (Gaol St, LE15 8AN), Stamford (1 Ironmonger St, PE9 1PL) and Exton (Cottesmore Rd, LE15 8AN). Tel: 01572 768936 Web: www. hambleton bakery.co.uk

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 47

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INDIAN FOOD

Punjab was the hub of India’s Green Revolution and is known as the Land of Milk and Honey, says Adi Sinha from Leicester restaurant Mem-saab COOKING REGION: THE PUNJAB

STRONG, SIMPLE FLAVOURS

F

our-thousand years. That’s how far back Indian cooking as we know it can be traced.

Over this time regional cultures and geographical boundaries have evolved and shifted, and these changes have left their mark on Indian food. Varying influences by different rulers and travellers have not caused Indian cuisine to lose its identity, but become richer.

This is very apparent in the unique regional cuisine of Punjab, known as the Land of Five Rivers, namely Beas, Sutlej, Chenab and Jhelum. Another name for Punjab is the Land of Milk and Honey, and perhaps it would be appropriate to call it the Land of Plenty.

Punjabi cooking and eating is just like the Punjabis themselves: honest and forthright. Punjabis also have a

reputation for being fun-loving and hard working by nature, with food and merriment very much a part of their lives.

Punjabi cuisine is never complicated. Bhunao, which means to stir-fry or saute, is one of its main techniques, especially for nonvegetarian cooking. This cooking method brings to mind images of sizzling, appetising food.

The Golden Temple of Amritsar in Punjab.

An Indian market (above) and the Rock Garden, Chandigarh, Punjab (below).

‘Punjabi cooking is never complicated – it’s just like the Punjabis 48 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

The Punjab

Simple Lamb Rogan Josh Serves: 4 Total time taken: 45 mins

* 600-700g leg of lamb chopped into bite-sized chunks

TRY USING * Garlic & ginger paste LOCAL LAMB * Salt FROM YOUR BUTCHER * 1tsp haldi (turmeric) OR FARM 3tsp garam masala * 2tsp ground coriander SHOP * * 2tsp ground cumin * 2dsst sp plain natural full-fat yoghurt * 1tsp red chilli powder * Pinch of deggi mirch (optional) * 2 medium onions, finely chopped * Tin of peeled plum tomatoes *Oil or ghee to cook

Lamb Rogan Josh is a typical Punjabi dish.

Being the seat of India’s Green Revolution – a controversial programme that led to a substantial increase in grain production and reduction in famine – Punjab is an agricultural state, its staple food being wheat. As a result, hot rotis and parathas are central to the region’s cuisine and accompany most meals.

Fresh ingredients create the wonders, and in India fresh means straight from the farm to the cooking pot. A good chef helps too, but to my

A LOOK AT...

Ghee Common in Indian cooking, ghee is clarified butter.

Traditionally, it is made from butter churned out of cow’s milk or yoghurt. Ghee is formed by simmering the unsalted butter in a saucepan until all the water has boiled off.

1 Heat oil or ghee in a pan and add ginger, garlic, salt and turmeric. Cook till golden.

2 Add remaining spices and cook for a minute before adding onions. Cook till golden brown.

3 Add the yoghurt a little at a time, constantly stirring to avoid curdling.

3 Add the lamb and ‘bhunao’ (cook until lamb is seared) for 20 minutes.

4 Add the tomato puree and cook for a further 10 minutes.

5 Garnish with chopped coriander leaves and sliced tomatoes. Serve with tandoori rotis.

SPINACH

A very common fresh ingredient in Punjabi cooking.

mind restaurants create dishes but cannot replicate the taste of food created in a mother’s kitchen!

The staple diet of a person from Punjab has echoes of our Five a Day. Certain dishes naturally lead to a balanced diet. For example, mah ki dal (lentils), sarson da saag (a spinach dish) and makki di roti (corn bread).

Meat curries like rogan josh (‘rogan’ means oil in Persian and ‘josh’ means heat or passion) and stuffed parathas are also a mark of the state.

The food of Punjab is suitable for those who burn up a lot of calories while working in the fields, tilling their small plots of land. For urban folk, however, eating even one dish is enough because life in cities is so sedentary. The most common base for the masala (mix of spices) used in Punjabi dishes is tomatoes fried in pure ghee. If they do not have a curry or vegetable, Punjabis might simply have a roti with onions. Another common feature in Punjab at meal times is the lassi, a preparation of curd or yoghurt.

Parathas.

A typical Punjabi day Breakfast: parathas stuffed with any vegetable and a lassi.

Lunch: sarson da saag and makki di roti with onion chutney.

Snack or high tea: TURN T besan pakoras.

PAGE O FOR TW50 Dinner: mah ki dal, O LOCAL RESTAUASIAN bhunna gosht, tandoori RANT REVIEW roti and dahi raaita.

S MEM-SAAB Indian fine-dining restaurant and champagne bar Mem-saab offers tasty home cooking in a stylish environment.

59 High Cross Street, Leicester LE1 4PG. Tel: 0116 2530243, web: www.mem-saableics.com

themselves: honest and forthright. Hot rotis and parathas abound’ Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 49

LOCAL ASIAN FOOD Menu samples

Anjuna, Leicester CUISINE: Goan Indian PRICE PER HEAD: ÂŁ25-ÂŁ35 (for three courses and drinks) KIDS WELCOME: Yes DOGS: No CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: No, but plenty at nearby Highcross shopping centre TIMES: Tues-Sat 6-10.30/11.30pm

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tuffed to within a inch of your superloose elasticated trackie bottoms. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how some mediocre British curries can make you feel. And the intense onion, spice and garlic aftertaste stays with you for days.

Anjunaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s food is completely different â&#x20AC;&#x201C; freshtasting, with distinct flavours that remain separate. The portions are perfectly judged, so you leave feeling satisfied, not staggering around in a tired daze until bedtime.

Open just a few months, Anjuna is one of the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s few Goan restaurants. It has a beach bar-like feel, with white-sand-coloured ceramic floor and wall tiles, driftwood objets dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;art, frosted glass tables and a relaxed vibe.

Goa, an old Portuguese colony on the west coast of India, is known for its laid-back feel and beautiful Arabian Sea-lapped beaches, and Anjunaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s owners Amanda and Roy

Goan national dish â&#x20AC;&#x201C; chicken cooked slowly in Goan roasted spices

Goan sausages ÂŁ7.95 Intensely spiced, marinated pickled pork pieces in a hot sauce

DESSERT Gulab jamun ÂŁ3.95 Fernandes have brought a little bit of that to Leicester city centre. They are passionate about their Goan heritage and cuisine.

Traditional Goan dishes enhance a menu that contains all the British Indian favourites.

My starter of Goan potato chops was fluffy and flavoursome, while my main â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Chicken Xarcuti â&#x20AC;&#x201C; had a wonderfully dark, rich flavour.

My wifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pork curry had a lovely sweet and sour flavour. This comes from palm vinegar, used frequently Goan cookery. The presence of roasted rather than raw spices also gives Goan cuisine a distinctive taste.

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re told Anjunaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spicy Goan sausages and handmade naans and rotis are a huge hit with the Leicester Goan Society, who visit regularly. After dinner, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reported that many

CUISINE: Thai PRICE PER HEAD: ÂŁ20-ÂŁ30 (for three courses and drinks) KIDS WELCOME: Yes DOGS: No CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: No, but plenty outside on Burton Road TIMES: Mon-Sat 12-2.30pm; 6-11pm

M

Mixed lamb and herbs, marinated, coated in potato and fried

Goan fish pakoras ÂŁ4.95 MAINS Chicken Xacuti ÂŁ7.95

Thai Sabai, Melton Mowbray

elton Mowbray is known for its traditional British cuisine so the presence of a Thai restaurant in the Pie Capital makes a refreshing change.

Located a few yards from the train station on Burton Street, Thai Sabai is a small, intimate restaurant with a clean â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in both design terms and a Kim & Aggie type way â&#x20AC;&#x201C; modern interior. Contemporary wooden tables sit on a wooden floor, surrounded by big comfy chairs. The pretty Thai-style dining area at the back is worth trying â&#x20AC;&#x201C; check out the pond full of Koi. When the sunâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s out you could almost â&#x20AC;&#x201C; almost â&#x20AC;&#x201C; be in Koh Pha Ngan.

Specialising in traditional, authentic Thai dishes, this restaurant is a real plus-point for Melton Mowbray. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve eaten here with family and friends a number of times and have always enjoy the relaxed feel, friendly service, reasonable prices and tasty food. My last visit was on a busy Monday evening in June.

STARTERS Goan potato chops with minced lamb ÂŁ4.45

Dough balls drizzled in syrup

society members like to dance and indulge in a few Anjuna cocktails â&#x20AC;&#x201C; some of which use cashew feni, a traditional spirit made from the flower of the cashew nut plant.

The service at Anjuna is wonderfully friendly and relaxed. If you go, ask to hear some traditional Goan music â&#x20AC;&#x201C; listening to this brings on a feeling of sun, sea and sand. Q ANJUNA 76 Highcross Street, Leicester LE1 4NN www.anjunarestaurant.com 0116 251 2229 Takeaways also available.

Menu samples STARTERS Pork ribs in tamarind sauce ÂŁ4.25 Fried juicy ribs in a sweet sauce

Thai fish cakes ÂŁ4.50 Served with Thai sweet chilli sauce

MAINS Chicken with holy basil ÂŁ6.95 Chicken stir-fried with chillies, Thai herbs and holy basil leaves

Thai Massaman curry ÂŁ8.50 Walking through the front door you are assaulted by a rich array of sweet aromas, led by pungent lemongrass. If that isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t enough to get your appetite raging, a starter of pork ribs in tamarind sauce will almost certainly provoke carnivores into a state of happy agitation. The meat falls off the bone and the wonderfully gooey, sweet sauce is quite spectacular. These are one of my favourite starters anywhere (â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have a secret way of preparing them,â&#x20AC;? says owner David Sneath, intriguingly). But if ribs arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t your thing there are a further 14 starters from which to choose, including four vegetarian options.

There are always specials on offer, too.

Moving onto mains, you can select soup, noodles, coconut-milk infused Thai curries or a good variety of meat or vegetarian dishes, ranging from extremely mild to fairly hot. The

Curry with peanuts, potatoes and onions in coconut milk

DESSERT Sticky rice & mango ÂŁ3.95

creamy Massaman curry is very good indeed.

Drinks-wise, you can quaff Thai beer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Singha or Chang â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and/or a small selection of Thai wine, plus all the usuals.

David Sneath and Thitiya Kummas opened Thai Sabai in 2007 after meeting in Thailand and spotting a niche in Melton. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been brilliantly filling that niche ever since. Q THAI SABAI 24 Burton Street, Melton Mowbray www.thaisabai-restaurant.co.uk 01664 850036 Takeaways and lunch-time specials available.

50 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

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Italian food

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arma ham is best known for its full-bodied flavour and silky texture. Made by traditional methods, using Duroc or Landrance pigs from the northern region of Parma, the hams have only four ingredients â&#x20AC;&#x201C; pork, salt, air and time.

Because of the unique geography of the town, the rear haunches of the pigs are preserved by drying in the constant aromatic breezes coming in over the hills, considered crucial in flavour development. The hams are cured for one year to 30 months.

Best served at room temperature, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no need to remove the fat as it gives the ham balance and texture.

My husband Gaetano and I serve Parma ham as antipasto with Italian cheeses, melon, pears or figs. Try wrapping it around fish or chicken and baking, or dice and add to risotto.

â&#x20AC;˘ FO O D

Prosciutto crudo needs time, salt and air for perfection, says Alison Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Angelo

Parma ham

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A look atâ&#x20AC;Ś Parma ham

OOD FO â&#x20AC;˘F

Asparagus, fresh fig & parma ham wraps

ALISON Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ANGELO

Alison owns Caffe & Deli Italia in Melton.

Working alongside her Tuscan husband Gaetano and two sons, she likes her Italian food rustic and relaxed. Her cafĂŠ and deli echo her preference, sitting side by side in Meltonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prettiest street. The latter has a fine array of oils on tap; the former brings cafĂŠ culture â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and a Friday and Saturday evening bistro â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to Melton Mowbray.

Blanch a few asparagus spears in boiling salted water. Wrap slices of Parma ham around the spears, then place on a bed of watercress, rocket and fresh figs, and drizzle over plenty of balsamic dressing before serving.

Parma ham & asparagus tart

Alison in Deli Italia.

CONTACT Caffe & Deli Italia, 6-8 Church Street, Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire LE13 0PN Deli Italia: 01664 500132; Caffe Italia: 01664 561777

Roll out a rectangle of puff pastry. Bake in the oven for five minutes (Gas Mark 6-7, 410C), then place leeks in the centre along with a mixture of egg, cream and parmesan. Arrange asparagus spears across the tart and top with slices of Parma ham. Cook at the same temperature for 20 minutes and serve.

Rutlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first ever Food Festival.

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Tel. 0116 253 0243 www.mem-saableics.com

Saturday 18th September Rutland Water 11am to 6pm Cooking demonstrations from Rutlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top chefs, a range of local meats and cheeses to purchase and locally brewed beer to enjoy

od taste o g f o y t n u o c The www.discover-rutland.co.uk Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 51

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LOCAL PRODUCER

Slow Beef

When south Leicestershire farmer John Keal decided to rear Red Poll cattle – an ancient breed renowned for its delicious meat – he had to do it the traditional way WORDS & PHOTOS: MATTHEW WRIGHT

I

t’s Sunday afternoon and the smell of roast beef fills the kitchen. Sunlight streams through the windows and the sound of a popped cork adds to the sense of well-being. The location is South Kilworth, Lutterworth, not far from the southernmost point of Leicestershire.

“This is what I call Slow Beef,” says 48-year-old John Keal, host for the day, cattle farmer and school teacher. John pours the red wine – made from grapes grown within strolling distance at Chevelswarde organic vineyard – and carves glistening slices from a topside of Red Poll steer. The beef John is serving came from a 30-month-old steer from his new herd of Red Poll cattle, raised two miles away at his family-owned farm. “My brother Bob and I want our Red Polls to mature as slowly and as happily as possible before reaching the table,” says John.

A couple of miles away, John’s Red Poll herd – christened Armoracia,

52 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Latin for horseradish, by John’s wife Marie, chomps on nutrient-rich grass and clover provided by the prime grazing fields of Orchard Farm, situated just south of Walcote village.

The herd consists of 14 cows, 12 steers, enormous Ed the bull, plus two calves at the time of writing and possibly 12 more. Orchard Farm has been in John’s family since 1919 when his grandfather took it on after serving in the Great War. “Most of Orchard Farm’s land hasn’t been ploughed since medieval times,” says John. “This part of Leicestershire has excellent soil for pasture grass, with a good mix of nutrients. There’s plenty

of clover, which provides good food for my Red Polls. They’ll eat nothing but grass unless they need a boost, in which case I may give them some barley from the farm next door.”

Back in South Kilworth, just a few yards from the diners, all is quiet at Joseph Morris Butchers. It will stay that way until 7am on Monday morning.

Joseph Morris, established in 1930 and winner of Which? Local Business of the Year Award 2009, slaughters the steers in a nearby abattoir. “The cattle travel just two miles to the slaughterhouse,” says John, “so stress-levels are kept to an absolute minimum.”

Red Poll cattle Red Polls are a native British dual-purpose breed (providing beef and milk) that came about in the 18th century when a Norfolk cow was crossed with a Suffolk polled bull (poll means hornless). They have a reputation for outstanding meat: the Queen is kept in Red Poll steak by her personal Sandringham herd. Red Polls are hardy and attractive, conker red with white touches on their tails.

John Keal with a Red Poll steer at Orchard Farm.

Red Polls John carves a tasty chine steak.

Local stockists Which? award-winning South Kilworth butchers Joseph Morris (team pictured above) slaughter John’s Red Polls. The beef is then sold by John and through Bates the Butchers, 4 Church Square, Market Harborough LE16 7NB (01858 462400) and WF Chapman, 11 High Street, Lutterworth LE17 4AT (www. wfchapman.co.uk, 01455 552 641).

‘For me, doing it well means having happy beasts leading a stress-free life.’

Fine marbling on these Red Poll steaks.

John believes keeping his beef local from birth until death is not only the ideal way to farm cattle, but that the resulting low stress levels are crucial for producing the finest meat. “My aim is to make really tasty beef, to enjoy doing it and to do it well,” says John. “For me, doing it well means having happy beasts leading a stress-free life.” Also, and this is where the Slow Beef idea comes in, it means raising them as slowly as possible. “Commercial farms have a tight schedule of birth, fattening and slaughter within 14-16 months,” says John. “Here at Orchard Farm, by not being so commercially-orientated, we slaughter at 24-30 months, giving the steers two summers of growing. We then aim to hang the meat for 21 days.”

John would wait even longer but BSE legislation means cattle for the human food chain have to be killed at or before 30 months, otherwise a raft of DEFRA checks are needed. These checks can only take place at certain UK abattoirs

Chevelswarde vineyard is just a few yards from Orchard Farm – perfect wine to accompany John’s Red Poll steak.

LOCAL WINE

Perfect with a dollop of horseradish.

and Joseph Morris’s is not one of them. Transporting his Red Polls further afield does not fit in with John’s low-food-miles philosophy.

Back at the dining table, everyone is enjoying the company, food and wine; second helpings are on their way.

Orchard Farm Red Poll steak – Slow Beef in every sense – is the perfect accompaniment to a relaxed Sunday.

To buy John’s Red Poll beef, contact John on 01858 575611 or visit www.orchardfarm.info. Also see Red Poll butchers’ details above.

USEFUL CONTACTS Joseph Morris, South Kilworth, www.joseph-morris.co uk, 01858 575210 Red Poll Cattle Society, www.redpoll.org, 01245 600032 Chevelswarde Organic Vineyeard, South Kilworth, www.chevelswardeorganics.co.uk 01858 575309

It costs £200 for one eighth of a steer (about 52lbs), comprising everything from sirloin to silverside to mince to sausages. ‘An eighth will last a family of four the winter,’ says John.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 53

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23/8/10 11:27:39

Edible local plants FORAGING

12

Many wild plants native to Leicestershire & Rutland can be used to enhance your summer dishes. Nancy Bench from The Herb Nursery in Thistleton near Oakham reveals six

Dandelion

Taraxacum officinalis is one of the most useful plants found in all types of grassland. The young leaves are tasty in salads and rich in vitamins A and C. The roots, when roasted, make a well known substitute for coffee. It is still used commercially in the production of Dandelion and Burdock fizzy drinks.

Ladyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Smock

Cardamine pratensis is a wild flower of damp meadows also known as Cuckoo Pint. The leaves have a hot, peppery taste like watercress. Use them for a mix of green leaves with dandelion or chickweed in sandwiches. It is related to bittercress, which has similar properties.

3

Sorrel

Rumex acetosa has many common names including Sour Grass, which relates to its sharp, lemony taste. Popular in 17th century cooking, it makes an excellent soup with potatoes or oatmeal and can be used as a substitute for spinach.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also good in a sauce to accompany fish. Widespread on roadside verges and grassy places with a slightly acidic soil.

PHOTOS: PETER BENCH

Good King Henry

Chenopodium bonushenricus. Cultivated since medieval times, the young leaves are used as a green vegetable and the flower spikes (May to July) can be cooked as broccoli. Found mainly in fertile ground such as rich pastures and hedge banks but also in waste ground near old buildings. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Goodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; was used to distinguish it from â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Badâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Henry â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Dogâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mercury.

4

5

6

Salad Burnet

Sanguisorba minor.

Often used uncooked in salads, its young leaves have a cucumber taste. Chopped leaves can be added to cottage cheese to add flavour or steeped in vinegar to create an unusual dressing. Try adding a few leaves to a fruit punch. The plant is found mainly on chalk grasslands â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it is an evergreen perennial.

Water mint

Mentha aquatica has a strong, minty flavour that can be used to make a refreshing tea by adding a sprig to boiling water. Use when cooking peas or new potatoes to add a zing, or chew a few leaves as a breath freshener. Look for it in streamsides, ponds and wet meadows.

THE HERB NURSERY

Based in Thistleton near Oakham, The Herb Nursery are friendly family-run plant specialists who grow and sell herbs, wild flowers and cottage garden plants.

Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been doing it for over 30 years and are open seven days a week, 9am to 6pm. Postcode LE15 7RE, 01572 767658, www.herbnursery.co.uk

KHUEV PZ LQGG

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 55

Fresh, local and seasonal food at Barnsdale Lodge Barnsdale Lodge Hotel is set in a unique rural location in the heart of the glorious Rutland countryside with views of undulating hills and Rutland Water.

• Morning coffee, lunch, afternoon tea & dinner • Delicious food prepared with fresh locally sourced, seasonal ingredients including beef from Hambleton Farm, berries and asparagus from Manton Farm and Rutland Water trout • Private dining • Weddings • Conferences • Exclusive hire of the whole hotel possible • Vicienté Beauty treatment & therapy room

Swithland Spring Water are celebrating 10 successful years of bottling – particularly for the water cooler market – and now bottling Sparkling and Still water into elegant 750ml glass bottles.

Tel: 01509 891189 www.swithlandspringwater.co.uk

The Avenue, Rutland Water, Nr Oakham, Rutland LE15 8AH enquiries@barnsdalelodge.co.uk

www.barnsdalelodge.co.uk

p45_GF_SeptOct10.indd Sec1:45

23/8/10 11:25:49

Growing food Clive Simms Clive from Essendine in Rutland is an expert on growing fruit and nuts. If you want to learn how to harvest hazelnuts, cultivate cranberries or fiddle with figs, Cliveâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your man....

The lazy manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fruit

Cultivating figs is surprisingly simple and will give your garden an exotic (and tasty) edge, says Clive Simms

F

Want to know more?

Clive has written a series of guides to growing common and unusual fruits and nuts.

They contain years of knowledge and cost ÂŁ3.50. Buy at www. orchardhousebooks. com. Clive also holds talks and runs courses â&#x20AC;&#x201C; www.clivesimms.com.

igs (Ficus carica) have been cultivated for their fruit since time immemorial.

Their popularity is still as strong as ever and with modern transport, the fresh fruit has become a familiar commodity alongside the traditional dried product.

Figs originated in the area around the Eastern Mediterranean and South West Asia but are now an important crop in many places around the world. Turkey is particularly well known for its dried figs but California and Brazil are also large commercial producers of fresh figs and fig products.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thought the Romans probably introduced figs into Britain but the first definite record of them being planted here was by Cardinal Pole at Lambeth Palace in around 1552. By the nineteenth century they were very popular fruits for growing in Victorian greenhouses.

The plant forms a large deciduous bush or small tree and has beautiful large lobed leaves that give an exotic touch to the British garden.

They fruit well if grown in an unheated greenhouse or against a warm, south-facing wall.

Fruiting is encouraged by lining the planting hole with paving slabs to restrict root spread. Growing them in large pots also works well.

Although many different named selections of fig are known, some of these crop more reliably and heavily in the UK than others. Good fruiting selections are available at garden centres or may be ordered from specialist nurseries that may be found in the RHS â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Plant Finderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (just tap the words into Google). Names to look for include Brown Turkey, Violetta, White Marseilles, Brunswick and Desert King.

Figs are a particularly easy fruit to grow and are sometimes called the lazy manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fruit. Apart from being slightly tender in the coldest of British winters, they are rarely troubled by pests and diseases, and tolerate neglect better than most fruit trees.

When perfectly ripe, the skin of the fruit begins to crack and the fruit droops down, indicating it should be picked immediately as birds and wasps find the sweet fruit as attractive as we do. Figs are delicious simply eaten fresh but they make decent jam too. They also make fine desserts... usually involving cream and alcohol!

Figs are a relatively easy fruit to grow.

Recipe inspiration For a delicious savoury fig tart, top a puff pastry base (Jus-Rol from the supermarket is fine) with fresh figs (tinned at a push), slices of pancetta, drizzled olive oil and chunks of Quenby Hall Blue Stilton (www.quenbyhall.co.uk). Brush the edges of the pastry with beaten egg. Bake for ten minutes on Gas 6 (200C), then add coriander leaves and 110ml of double cream. Bake for a further seven or eight minutes. Serve with a baby spinach and mint salad.

Recipe adaped from www.bbc.co.uk/food CONTACTS (local fig-plant sellers) Bluebell Arboretum & Nursery, Ashby de la Zouch: www.bluebellnursery.com, 01530 413700 Gates Nursery, Cold Overton: 01664 454309, www.gatesnurseries.co.uk Goscote Nurseries, Cossington: 01509 812121,www.goscote.co.uk The Herb Nursery, Thistleton: 01572 767658, www.herbnursery.freeuk.com, Wyvale (Loughborough & Stapleton): 0844 8008082, www.thegardencentregroup.co.uk

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 57

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LOCAL PRODUCER Olive Branch All-Stars Each issue, award-winning sister pubs, The Olive Branch of Clipsham and The Red Lion of Stathern, name their local food heroes – producers who make their menus special

Amazing rose veal, duck and more produced near Old Dalby

Lower Grange Farm A t the Olive Branch and Red Lion Inn we pride ourselves on sourcing as much local and seasonal produce as possible. Our inspiration is Mother Nature and the passion shown by our very own food heroes.

Sue Fox at Lower Grange Farm in the Vale of Belvoir is one such food champ.

Her farm near Old Dalby is a stone’s throw from the Red Lion at Stathern.

Sue produces great ingredients, like free-range eggs laid by Cream Legbar chickens (used in our Eggs Benedict), rose veal and Barbary ducks.

Rose veal is as far removed from its continental counterpart as you can imagine. As its name suggests, the meat is pinker. This is because the calf eats a natural diet of hay, oats and straw as well as milk. They have a longer lifespan too. The meat

58 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

comes from male calves, which are of little use to dairy farmers. It is a great ingredient and can be treated similarly to pork, producing fine roasts using cuts like loin or rib. Rose veal is excellent in casseroles, too. At the Olive Branch and Red Lion Inn we use the whole carcass so nothing is wasted.

We spoke to Sue to find out more.

Grange Farm eggs are used in the Olive Branch’s Eggs Benedict.

Sue’s story “I’ve looked after Grange Farm for 19 years,” says Sue, “but until 18 months ago I was a full-time optician. Giving up to focus on the farm was a relief and I enjoy my work much more now.

“I chose veal because I could get the calves locally – we tend to use Brown Swiss or Jersey Cross breeds.

The calves get milk three times a day and stay out in the fields, wandering free. When the time comes we take the

calves to Brumptons family butchers just a few miles away in Cotgrave, so stress is kept to a minimum.

“Our eggs are from Cream Legbars, a breed that doesn’t do well in battery farms. Our Barbary ducks are big and easy to keep – quite goose-like in looks and taste. We also keep guinea fowl.

“When I’m not farming, I make puddings – I specialise in crème

Olive Branch All-Stars

Sue Fox feeding her veal calves.

“Rose veal is as far removed from its continental counterpart as you can imagine”

Braised veal shin

brûlée, posset and custard. I use Lubcloud organic and cream from Manor Farm, Thrussington.

“We’ve just opened a small farm shop at Lower Grange. Do come and see us – we love getting visitors!”

Serves 4

* 4 rose veal shins * 1 red pepper, peeled and diced * 2 celery sticks, peeled and diced * 1 onion, peeled and diced * 1 garlic clove, finely chopped * 1 glass Madeira & 1 glass dry white wine * 1 sprig of thyme and 1 bay leaf * 1 tspn tomato paste * 1 tbsn dark, soft brown sugar * 1l chicken/veal stock & 100ml vinegar

A BBQ marinade for veal Now the BBQ season is upon us, here is an easy marinade you can try at home.

We use this for rose veal, chicken, pork and lamb. It can be tweaked to complement different meats by adding different fresh herbs, such as sage for pork or tarragon for veal.

* 2 limes – juice and finely grated zest * 2tbsp fresh chopped coriander * 4tbsp natural yoghurt * 4tbsn natural clear honey * 4tbsn rapeseed oil – we use oil from

Welland Valley, Houghton on the Hill (www.wellandvalley.com) * 1 garlic clove, finely chopped * 1tspn finely chopped chilli Place ingredients in the mixing bowl, add meat, cover and marinade for at least 30 minutes (the longer it is left, the better the flavour). BBQ and serve.

LOWER GRANGE FARM Lower Grange Farm, Gibson Lane, Old Dalby LE14 3LH. Tel: 01664 823640.

The Red Lion dining room.

The Olive Branch and Red Lion Inn The Olive Branch (pictured right and below) is known for its Michelin Star but the pub’s chosen strapline – “Great food and drink in a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere” – says just as much. The Red Lion is a characterful country pub with a farmhouse feel and great menu.

DID YOU KNOW? The Red Lion Inn at Stathern has its own vegetable patch at the end of the pub garden. It also has its own beer, brewed by The Grainstore Brewery, Oakham.

1 Fry shins until golden and place in a casserole pot. Dust with plain flour.

2 In the same frying pan, cook all veg and garlic and add to veal shins.

3 Deglaze the pan with the vinegar, Madeira and wine, then add to pot.

4 Add remaining ingredients to pot.

Barely cover with veal/chicken stock.

5 Cover and put in preheated oven, Gas Mark 1 (120C), for 3-5 hours.

6 Allow to stand for 10 minutes before serving. Serve with saffron risotto or minted new potatoes.

Veal casserole, aka osso bucco.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 59

PUB WALK

LOCAL PUB WALK

BRAUNSTON IN RUTLAND, NEAR OAKHAM This pretty four-mile circuit is the perfect appetite-builder before some reviving food and drink at a village pub

V

isiting Braunston-in-Rutland can put you into a bit of a daze.

Strolling past its beautiful old stone houses and crossing the meandering river Gwash, you find yourself in a state of happy relaxation. Many of the village’s cottages exude the warm glow of Northamptonshire ironstone and one farmhouse displays masonry dated 1604.

Medieval All Saints’ is a charming but unusual-looking church, with a clock that appears to have been slapped on to its small tower by someone in quite a hurry.

It’s only when your mobile phone rings that you realise you haven’t actually stepped back in time. And as a 4x4 brings you further back to reality, your mind turns to the 21st century and the prospect of a restorative meal and drink.

Happily, Braunston-in-Rutland has two pubs – The Blue Ball, a smart, idyllic-looking thatched 17th century hostelry, and The Old Plough Inn. Both are on hand to supply beverages, stiff or otherwise, and a good selection of food (see opposite).

But first, get your walking boots on...

Overview of area

Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright. AM44/10.

THERE’S PLENTY OF on-road parking available in the village, but near the bus stop opposite The Blue Ball is a good place. Head towards All Saints’ front gates and take the path around the church, keeping it on your right.

At the church, don’t forget to look at the Braunston Goddess, an ancient stone carving sitting at the west end of All Saints’ by the base of the tower. Some believe her to be a Saxon fertility goddess, but neither her exact origin nor age is known.

1

GO THROUGH THE GATE on the left just beyond the church, following the yellow footpath arrow. Continue over the next stile, taking the path straight ahead (not left). Cross a footbridge into the next field where you carry straight on, staying close to the hedge on the right. Cross another footbridge.

2

AFTER THE FOOTBRIDGE, follow the yellow arrow pointing diagonally to the left and head between two overgrown hedgerows, keeping the tiny stream to your left. Climb a stile into a field and, with the hedge on your left, continue straight on. To the right in the distance you can just see a red brick farmhouse.

3

CONTINUE STRAIGHT ON to the corner of the field (hidden in undergrowth in summer). Here you’ll find a small bridge and stile. Cross them and carry straight on, with the hedge on your left, towards a yellow marker. Go through a metal gate and pass the farmhouse. Bare-legged walkers beware, there are lots of nettles here in the summer.

4

Summer wild flowers near Braunston.

60 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

The walk

CARRY STRAIGHT ON through the field to another yellow marker, walking close to the hedge on your left. At the marker, go over a stile and small wooden bridge. Then take an immediate right, sticking close to hedge on your right, and carry on until you reach a fence. Climb over the fence and into the next field.

5

6

NOW HEAD TO the far opposite corner of the field you are in. The most direct

Braunston-in-Rutland

Detailed walk map

The Blue Ball

Pleawe

Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright. AM44/10.

route is to head uphill and cross the field diagonally but you can stick to the perimeter if you want. There isn’t an obvious path but don’t worry. In the opposite corner you’ll find a stile beneath a large ash tree. The stile is very well hidden by the tree and other foliage in summer.

GO OVER THE STILE and bear left uphill towards the hedgeline. Again, there isn’t an obvious path but follow your nose – look for the tree pictured below and aim for that.

7

Aim for this tree in step 7.

on your left. Ignore that gate but go through another gate on your left just a few yards further on.

FOLLOW THE YELLOW ARROW and head downhill, sticking close to the hedgerow on your right. A footpath appears, which turns into a track, then a lane. Carry on until the lane joins the road. Go downhill along the road and into the village.

Before long you’ll see the church and The Blue Ball.

11

The clock on All Saints’ church was mounted in 1879.

Notes: We’ve done this walk a number of times and believe the instructions to be clear and accurate. However, do take a map – OS Explorer 234 is the one. The walk should take around two hours – give yourself enough time.

AT THE TREE you’ll find a gap immediately to its right, where you can pass through the hedge and emerge onto a track.

Turn left on the track and carry on until you reach a gate.

8

9

GO THROUGH THE GATE and turn left to follow the bridleway.

FOLLOW THE BRIDLEWAY for about half a mile (this can get very muddy in winter).

Eventually you come to a wooden gate

10

Dating back to the 17thcentury, The Blue Ball claims to be Rutland’s oldest pub. It’s well-presented inside, with low ceilings, seagrass carpets, open fireplaces, exposed beams, antique furniture and a large dining area. The outside patio area is very pleasant when it’s sunny.

The menu is extensive and The Blue Ball uses local produce when possible, including lamb from nearby Launde Farm and game from local shoots. Sunday roasts are a speciality but bar snacks are available too.

The Blue Ball, 6 Cedar Street, Braunston-inRutland, LE15 8QS, www. theblueballbraunston. co.uk, 01572 722135.

{ } Braunston facts

Braunston’s spinneys were some of the most famous fox coverts of the old Cottesmore Hunt.

Nearby Prior’s Coppice is a Site of Special Scientific Interest, home to over 230 species of flora and fauna.

The Old Plough A freehouse serving traditional pub food and some real ale (London Pride and Adnams on the last visit), The Old Plough is a good, honest village pub. It appears slightly shabby in places but in a happy, laid-back sort of way.

The pub’s front bar is comfortable and on a recent Saturday night visit was busy with local drinkers.

There’s a conservatory restaurant and when it’s warm you can sit out in the large beer garden or covered outside patio. You can even enjoy a game of petanque on the floodlit playing area.

There’s a large car park and accommodation is available.

The Old Plough Inn, 2 Church Street, Braunston-inRutland, LE15 8QY 01572 722714.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 61

Large jug

by Finola Delamere Croxton Kerrial-based potter and ceramic artist Finola Delamere uses red earthenware clay to create pots that would grace any kitchen.

Contact: 01476 870744, www.finspottery.co.uk

PRICES FROM: £20

KitchenAid Pink Artisan Mixer PRICES FROM: £XX £390

There’s more than a touch of Sixties Americana about this mixer. It’ll last until the next Sixties, too, as both the bowl and the pink casing are made from stainless steel, the latter with an enamelled finish. The motor has ten speeds.

Contact: 0800 9881266, www.kitchenaid.co.uk

love this...

...fabulous food-related finery available in Leicestershire & Rutland Picnic basket You’ll be proud to settle down in a sunny Leicestershire field and unpack the ploughman’s and bubbly from one of these vintage hand-woven picnic baskets. A variety of linen and tableware designs are available, from 19th century florals to Fifties chic.

Contact: www.lifesapicnic.co.uk

Children’s baking set Inspire young chefs with this 19-piece baking set. OK, so you might have to feign delight at tuna and ginger cookies or tomato Victoria sponge, but the next Heston has to start somewhere.

Contact: John Lewis, Highcross, Leicester – 0116 2425777, www.johnlewis.com

62 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

PRICES FROM: £220

PRICES FROM: £19.95

Foodie products

Aga Integrated Module Dream of baking cakes in your farmhouse kitchen’s Aga while the Jack Russell playfully teases the cat, the kids frolic happily in the garden and hubby calmly embarks on an effective round of home improvements? Yeah right. But at least the Aga might be achievable.

These iconic chunks of domestic bliss will last you a lifetime and many cooks swear by them. The Integrated Module Aga offers a heat-storage cooker with a conventional cooker attached.

There is also a grill, fan oven and choice of ceramic or gas hob.

Contact: 0116 2429389, www.pochin.com

PRICES FROM: £5995

Regency brass kettle

Bucket BBQ Basic but effective, this bucket barbie is the perfect portable outdoor cooking device. Grasp its carrying handle, grab a selection of bangers and head out for a good grilling.

Contact: John Lewis, Highcross, Leicester – 0116 2425777, www.johnlewis.com

It’s amazing how many antiques are related to eating and drinking.

Each issue we’ll unearth two or more old objects with foodie links that you can buy locally. This beautiful Recency period brass kettle dates back to 1825. It’s for sale at Oaktree Antiques near Market Harborough.

Contact: 01858 410041, www.oaktreeantiques.co.uk

PRICE: £9.95

Harlequin with Playful Peppers

PRICE: £595

by Dylan Waldron

Leicestershire artist Dylan Waldron’s stunning range of food paintings is in the style of the Old Masters.

On sale at the superb Goldmark Gallery, Uppingham.

Contact: 01572 821424, www.goldmarkart.com

PRICES FROM: £600

Set of eight café chairs Laid-back and stylish, these 1930’s polished metal Tolix café chairs have probably spent their lives supporting Gallic bottoms in French cafés. They have drop-in uphostered seats. For sale at Stamford-based Matthew Cox Antiques.

Contact: 0780 2510503, www.matthewcoxantiques.co.uk

PRICE: £2800 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 63

Farm shop map Great-tasting, fresh food that hasn’t travelled far – what’s not to like about farm shops? But give them a buzz to check opening hours before setting off

Keyworth, Notts

We’re surrounded by fantastic food yet most of us buy produce that’s travelled half way across 7 CHANTRY the country, or even around the world. Any FARM SHOP Melbourne chef will tell you the best-tasting stuff is seasonal, fresh and hasn’t been stored in the back of a lorry or jet plane for hours. The best restaurants tend to source their produce from A42 local farmers for this reason. If you don’t already, why not increase the quality of the food you eat and support local THE MUSHROOM BASKET farmers and businesses by giving Ashby de Packington your local farm shop a go?

23

20

MANOR ORGANIC FARM SHOP Long Whatton

A6

BLACKBROOK TRADITIONAL MEAT

Grace Dieu

Loughborough

3

STONEHURST FAMILY FARM & MUSEUM Mountsorrel

32

la Zouch

Ashley Herb Farm (herb nursery & farm shop) 45 Main St, Ashley, Market Harborough LE16 8HG web: www.ashleyherbfarm.co.uk tel: 01858 565722

MEADOW VIEW FARM Sileby

1

COOK’S FARM SHOP THE CATTOWS FARM SHOP

Newtown Linford

6

Heather

Attfields Farm Shop Countesthorpe Rd, Whetstone LE8 6LD web: www.attfieldsfarmshop.co.uk tel: 0116 2771476

13

Brockleby’s Farm Shop Melton Road, Asfordby Hill LE14 3QU web: www.brocklebys.co.uk tel: 01664 813200

Cook’s Farm Shop Markfield Lane, Newtown Linford LE6 0AB web: www.cooksfarmshop.co.uk tel: 01530 242214

5

10

Brooklea Nursery & Farm Shop 1000 Loughborough Road, Rothley LE7 7NL tel: 0116 2302155 The Cattows Farm Shop Swepstone Road, Heather LE67 2RF web: www.thecattows farmshop.co.uk tel: 01530 264200

6

Chantry Farm Shop Kings Newton Lane, Melbourne, Derbys, DE73 8DD tel: www.chantryfarm.com web: 01332 865698

7

Chevelswarde Organic Growers (including vineyard) Chevel House, The Belt, South Kilworth LE17 6DX tel: 01858 575309

8

62 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

9

THE FAT HEN FARM SHOP Stapleton

GE TOMLINSON AND FAMILY FARM SHOP Stoke Golding

9

Fancourts Farm Shop The Square, Ryhall, Stamford, Lincs PE9 4HJ tel: 01780 762698

37

BROOKLEA NURSERY & FARM SHOP Rothley

TOOLEY PARK FARM SHOP Peckleton

38

Hinckley

Greenacres Farm Shop 1 New Road, Belton-inRutland LE15 9LE web: www.greenacres-farmFields Farm Shop shop.co.uk 12 Farndon Farndon Road, Market tel: 01572 717210 Harborough LE16 9NP web: www.farndonfields 16 Hambleton Farms Fine Foods farmshop.co.uk Gaol St, Oakham LE15 8AQ tel: 01858 464838 web: www.hambleton Hen Farm Shop at farms.co.uk 13 Fat Greenacres Garden Centre tel: 01572 724455 Ashby Rd, Stapleton LE9 8JE Harker’s Farm Shop tel: 01455 290878 17 Blackberry Farm, Farm Shop Wolds Lane, 14 Grange Poacher’s Rest, Clipston, Keyworth NG12 5PB Newstead Lane, web: www.harkers Belmesthorpe PE9 4SA farmshop.co.uk tel: 07711 205507 tel: 0115 9892260

34

5

HIGHFIELD FARM Wigston

18

WOODHOUSE FARM SHOP Elmesthorpe

33

Crossroads Farm Shop Eastwell, Melton Mowbray LE14 4EF tel: 01949 860242

11

22

Leicester

3

4

WOODCOCK FARM Rothley

M1

2

Blackbrook Traditional Meat Springbarrow Lodge Farm, Swannymote Rd, Grace Dieu, near Coalville LE67 5UT web: www.blackbrooklonghorns.com tel: 01509 503276

17

HARKER’S FARM SHOP

ATTFIELDS FARM SHOP

2

Whetstone

M69

15

CHEVELSWARDE ORGANIC GROWERS South Kilworth

MANOR FARM SHOP & TEAROOM Catthorpe

19

8

Farm shop map Bottesford

21

March House Farm Top End, Great Dalby LE14 2HA tel: 01664 563919

Seldom Seen Farm Billesdon LE7 9FA web: www.seldomseenfarm.co.uk tel: 0116 2596742

Meadow View Farm 156 Cossington Road, Sileby LE12 7RT web: www.meadow viewfarm.co.uk tel: 01509 815670

Stamford Farm Shop 2B Gooches Court, Stamford PE9 9FA tel: 01780 767711

29

22

CROSSROADS FARM SHOP Eastwell

10

30

Stamford Garden Centre Farm Shop Road End Farm, Great Casterton, Stamford, Lincs PE9 4BB web: www.stamfordgarden centre.co.uk tel: 01780 765656

31

The Mushroom Basket Lowerfields Farm, Normanton Rd, Packington LE65 1XA web: www.themushroom basket.com tel: 01530 415862

23

Stonehurst Family Farm & Museum Bond Lane, Mountsorrel LE12 7AR web: www.stonehurstfarm.co.uk tel: 01509 413216

32

Northfield Farm Whissendine Lane, Cold Overton LE15 7QF web: www.northfieldfarm.com tel: 01664 474271

24

A46

A607

BROCKLEBYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FARM SHOP

Asfordby Hill

4

MARCH HOUSE FARM Great Dalby

25

21

A606

OAKDALE FARM SHOP Rearsby

Oakham

24

27

FANCOURTS FARM SHOP Ryhall, Stamford

HAMBLETON FARMS

NORTHFIELD FARM Cold Overton

26

GE Tomlinson & Family Farm Shop Station Road, Stoke Golding, Nuneaton CV13 6EU tel: 01455 212199

33

PICKS ORGANIC FARM SHOP Barkby Thorpe

16

Rutland water

SELDOM SEEN FARM Billesdon

Belmesthorpe

STAMFORD GARDEN CENTRE FARM SHOP

GREENACRES FARM SHOP

15

A47

WING HALL FARM SHOP Wing, Oakham

STAMFORD FARM SHOP

1

Uppingham

Tooley Park Farm Shop Peckleton Common Road, Peckleton, Leicester LE9 7RF tel: 01455 822876

34

ASHLEY HERB FARM Ashley

Highfield Farm Newton Lane, Wigston LE18 3SH tel: 0116 2880887

12

Manor Farm Shop & Tearoom Main St, Catthorpe LE17 6DB web: www.manorfarmcatthorpe.co.uk tel: 01788 869002

19

Manor Organic Farm Shop 77 Main St, Long Whatton, Loughborough LE12 5DF web: www.manororganic farm.co.uk tel: 01509 646413

20

Wing Hall Farm Shop Wing, near Oakham, Rutland LE15 8RY web: www.winghall.co.uk tel: 01572 737090

35

Oakdale Farm Shop 1870 Melton Road, Rearsby, LE7 4YS tel: 01664 424300

25

18

30

Stamford, Lincs

A6 WISTOW FARM SHOP Wistow

31

Stamford, Lincs

35

Belton-in-Rutland

FARNDON FIELDS FARM SHOP Market Harborough

14

GRANGE FARM SHOP

28

RUTLAND FARM SHOP Ashwell

ROOTS AT THORPE FARM Barkby Thorpe

29

36

11

Picks Organic 26 Farm Shop The Cottage, Hamilton Grounds, Barkby Thorpe LE7 3QF web: www.picksorganic.co.uk tel: 0116 2693548 Roots at Thorpe Farm King St, Barkby Thorpe LE7 3QE web: www.rootsthorpe farm.co.uk tel: 0116 2692526

27

Rutland Farm Shop Ashwell Road, Ashwell, near Oakham LE15 7QN web: www.rutlandvillage.co.uk tel: 01572 759492

28

Wistow Farm Shop Wistow Rural Centre Kibworth Rd, Wistow LE8 0QF web: www.wistow.com/rural.asp tel: 0116 2590041

36

Woodcock Farm 903 Loughborough Road, Rothley LE7 7NH tel: 0116 2302215

37

Woodhouse Farm Shop 1 Woodhouse Farm, Elmesthorpe, Earl Shilton LE9 7SE web: www.woodhousefarm.co.uk tel: 01455 851242

38

Have we missed a farm shop off the map? Email editorial@ greatfoodleics.co.uk to let us know.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 63

FACTS AND FIGURES The clock was mounted on xxxAll Saint ch in 1879xx

NUMBER CRUNCHING

When it comes to food and drink, every figure tells a storyâ&#x20AC;Ś

103,689

71 NEW BREWERIES OPENED LAST YEAR IN BRITAIN

â&#x20AC;Ś cups of tea drunk each day in Rutland (average of three cups per person per day) www.tea.co.uk

660 TOTAL

VINEYARDS IN 3RUTLAND LEICESTERSHIRE &

www.englishwineproducers.com

7

WORLD WAR 2) www.caskaleweek.co.uk

GOLD MEDALS WON BY LEICESTERSHIRE & RUTLAND PRODUCERS AT LAST UK GREAT TASTE AWARDS

www.greattasteawards.co.uk â&#x20AC;&#x201C; see next issue for 2010 results

21,000 ÂŁ6

ÂŁ2.80

average price of a pint of beer in Leicestershire & Rutland

pints drunk at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Leicester beer festival www.leicestercamra.org.uk

200,000

6

DAIRIES IN NUMBER OF THE WORLD BREWERIES LICENSED IN UK TO PRODUCE (HIGHEST BLUE STILTON SINCE

average price of a pint of beer inNorway

33p

average price of a pint of beer in Panama www.pintprice.com

litres of water bottled per week

by Swithland Spring Water

www.stiltoncheese.com

closing every 39 pubs week in the UK

www.beerandpub.com

8,300,000 tonnes of food thrown away by households in the UK every year

www.lovefoodhatewaste.com

130,000,000 UK gallons of cider produced annually in the UK www.real-cider.co.uk

www.swithlandspringwater.co.uk

300 AVERAGE ANNUAL EGG YIELD OF ONE BATTERY-FARMED HEN 30,000,000 EGGS EATEN EVERY DAY IN THE UK

www.egginfo.co.uk

66 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

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Game on!

Guide to enjoying local pheasant, partridge, deer and more

+

SPICING IT UP

Local chilli growing

Plus: Producer profiles, recipes, pub and restaurant reviews, local beers, events guide and much more

Using late-summer & autumn fruits â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘

Flavouring alcohols Preserve making Local apples Cake baking

The Sept/Oct issue is out on September 1.

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll try to run all this in the next issue, but things could change, especially if we sample the sloe gin.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 67

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Thy breat h

â&#x20AC;?â&#x20AC;&#x201C; yes -p ple ap of

is lik e th e st eam e

dia by Robert Gre e n e Arca , 15 9 0 .( W or d sw

f ise o pra in ten rit

y lady). a lovel

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A Rocco Media magazine

Leicestershire & Rutland

Next issue out September 1, 2010 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to guarantee your copy, subscribe at www.greatfoodleics.co.uk or turn to p11

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