6. Great Food Magazine July/Aug 2011 by Great Food Club

greatfood ISSUE #7

HANDMADE IN THE HEART OF ENGLAND

£3.20

Celebrating local food & drink

Summer fun Ice cream, picnics and pies!

FROM RUTLAND TO SIR ELTON

FIND HIDDEN GEMS

Chef Brian Baker’s astonishing career

20-page ‘Where To Eat’ section

GET OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

REALLY USEFUL RESTAURANT MAP

Leicester’s undiscovered curry houses reviewed

50 of the best local eateries

NEW CHEESES ON THE BLOCK

Three-pub walk

SUPERB RURAL RAMBLE

Also inside...

Introducing Battlefield Blue and Bosworth Field

PACKED WITH RECIPES From picnic pasties to Moroccan lamb

NEW HOME AND KITCHEN SECTION

Because great food and good living go hand in hand

Make bunting for your summer garden party

Nose around Rachel Green’s new kitchen

P76

Get inspiration & tips for growing your own

PLUS

Antiques for dining areas This issue’s dream home The Foodie Gift Hunter’s guide Home baking with Julie Duff

ISSUE #7

P82

£3.20

P80

great food & at the Discover

drink

Saturday 17th September at

Rutland Water!

E RUTLAND R O M S D A O L K EVENTS IN R D D N A FOOD UMMER! S T U O H G U THRO

Enjoy a taste of Rutland this summer As the long, lazy days of summer approach, there’s no finer place to enjoy nature’s bountiful harvest than here in Rutland. With mouthwatering home-grown produce and locally brewed ales and ciders, it’s time to give your taste buds the treat they deserve, and come along to one of our gastro-fantastic events!

Rutland Food and Drink Festival includes: Cooking demonstrations from top local chefs Huge range of local produce to taste and buy Delicious hot food such as hog roast, venison steaks, old spot sausages and more… Part of Rutland Day - family fun for all ages!

23rd-26th June

Rutland CAMRA Beer Festival CAMRA promotes good-quality real ale.

23rd-26th June

Sausage and Cider Festival Celebrating everything great about English ciders and sausages!

25th-29th August

The Grainstore Brewery Beer Festival Over 70 ales, stouts and bitters, plus BBQ and live music!

For more information on local events visit our website:

www.discover-rutland.co.uk or email: tourism@rutland.gov.uk for more details. rutland county council.indd 2

www.discover-rutland.co.uk

6/6/11 14:16:34

Welcome

The level of interest in locally produced food and drink keeps on growing. It really feels like an exciting time. Welbeck Estate in Nottinghamshire is a prime example of how much energy there is within the scene right now. What started out as a group of disused buildings on an historic estate is quickly becoming one of the UK’s most important artisan food centres. In 2006, a cheesemaker moved into one of the properties and a farm shop quickly followed. Then a bakery moved in, which led to the creation of the School of Artisan Food in 2009. Now a brewery has joined the fun and a chocolate maker is following suit. Meanwhile, a batch of Artisan School students are about to graduate with diplomas in artisan food production, and demand for short courses is high. People are rediscovering the craft of food and drink production using locally sourced ingredients and gaining new insights into how important it is, in terms of physical, environmental and spiritual health. PS Great Food is now covering a larger geographical area. Check out your new foodie maps on p58, 62 and 66. www.greatfoodmag.co.uk

Editor

Contents NIBBLES 4 6 8 10 12 13

Your letters Big Picture: Tukata Bird Local food news Everards’ Project Artisan Events diary Farmers’ market listings

WHERE TO EAT? Brand new section starts on p51

STARTER 14 16 18 20

British Pie Awards report Out and about: Leicester Market Local ice cream producers Ice cream recipes

MAIN COURSE 22 24 28 30 32 34

Back issues and subscriptions Brian Baker profile Summer preserving Swithland Spring Water 100 mile man Red Lion summer’s day planner

BACK FOR SECONDS 36 39 40 42

Moroccan lamb recipe Thai lamb recipe Pub walk: Sproxton circuit Local beer

PUDDING 43 44 46 48

New local cheeses The Insider Lucy Cufflin Foodie Gift Hunter

WHERE TO EAT SECTION

matthew.wright@greatfoodmag.co.uk WRITE TO: Great Food, 7 Victoria Street, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 0AR www.greatfoodmag.co.uk

Twitter: @greatfoodmag EDITOR: Matthew Wright ADVERTISING: BPG Ltd Julie Cousins – j.cousins@ bournepublishinggroup.co.uk 01780 766199 SUBSCRIPTIONS: 01664 853341 PUBLISHED BY: Rocco Media PRINTED & DISTRIBUTED BY: Warners Midlands plc CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE: Graham Wright, Tim Burke, Andrew

Welcome

Brackenbury, Rachel Quine, Jack Thorpe, Vanessa Kimbell, Rosemary Jameson, Sean Hope, Emily Holt, Phil Sharpe, Mark Tetlow, Tim Brown, Helen Chantrey, Lucy Cufflin, Helen Tarver, Emily Coates, Philippa Maffioli, Matt Cox, Laura Harvey, Julie Duff and... Rocco the Jack Russell WEBSITE: @paulbunkham Full Ts & Cs are on our website. STOCK PHOTOS: Shutterstock.

COVER WATERCOLOUR: Ice cream by Graham Wright

GREAT FOOD MAGAZINE IS BI-MONTHLY: NEXT ISSUE OUT SEPTEMBER 8, 2011 Great Food has been shortlisted for a Media Pioneer Award by the Specialist Media Show – www.thespecialistmediashow.com

52 54 57 58 61 62 65 66 68 71

Off-the-beaten-track curry houses Reviews: Boboli and Peacock Inn Great Food Club Restaurant map Profile: The Jackson Stops Deli, cheese and wine shop map Profile: Christopher James Deli Farm shop and butchers map Profile: Farndon Fields Farm Shop Profile: Kilworth House Hotel

HOME & KITCHEN SECTION 74 76 78 79 80 81 82

Food-lover’s dream home Veg patch from scratch Veg patch recipes Home baking: Cricketers’ Ale Cake How to make party bunting Antiques for dining areas Show us your kitchen!

Great Food Magazine 3

LETTERS

Your letters

TELL US W HA YOU THINK, T WRITE IN & WIN

Your recommendations, tips and banter… Love from Yorkshire

a superb reference guide to help with Loved our latest excursion to the the many facets of running my new Jackson Stops in Stretton under their business. The farm shop map, events new owners when we called in for a diary and farmers’ market locations light lunch on Saturday. It was quite give a useful guide to planning sales excellent. It was also there that we venues. But best of all, I am getting the found Great Food perfect introduction magazine and it makes to many wonderful for really good reading. people in the artisan On Monday, instead of food business who I going to Hambleton might otherwise Hall for a light lunch never have come into (as we have been there contact with. Hambleton Bakery, Oundle in the last month) we Hazel Spurr, were recommended to Barkestone-le-Vale go to the Finch’s Arms and, oh boy, that was brilliant. We had the smoked salmon and crème fraiche and we can’t My girlfriend has recently moved to wait to go back there. Oakham, where we tried the Indian Hats off to [Hambleton Hall owner] restaurant called The Dining Room. Tim Hart for his lovely Hambleton Their food was not your average curry Bakery shops. All very enterprising but rather a fusion of French cooking stuff going on down your way! with Indian spices. We had spiced John Abel, Harrogate seared tuna to start and sea bass fillet for main. Definitely worth a mention. I personally believe that Maiyango is One thing I have always noticed about the best restaurant in Leicester but we foodies is that they are happy to share are currently using the magazine to try recipes and this magazine captures the out new places around the region. As a generosity perfectly. I shall be filing lover of authentic, thin crust Italian every issue to be referred to over and pizzas, I would never have found the over again. I know that [Hotel Maiyango Garage Deli in Uppingham without chef] Phillip Sharpe’s Thai Fish Broth Great Food. They do great pizza! [Issue 7] will be a favourite when Ashley Dennis, Houghton friends come for supper, as will Matt Gregory’s wild garlic pesto. When the hedgerows in the Vale of Belvoir are After coming across Chocolate once again fragrant with elderflowers, I Alchemy of Loughborough in the shall go back to Issue 6! I have recently magazine, I thought their courses launched my own local food company sounded ideal. The teaching, advice and so the magazine has become both my chocolates exceeded my expectations. inspiration, my relaxation read and also Hearing about the geographical and

Restaurant tips

New recipes, new people

Chocolate heaven

How to contact us Write to the editor: matthew.wright@ greatfoodmag.co.uk, Tweet @greatfoodmag or use snail mail (address on page 3)

Birthday pie!

Having recently moved from Leicester city to the county, I was pleased to pick up my first copy of this magazine on a visit to Stonehurst Family Farm, Mountsorrel. I’m keen to find out about local food production and to support it as much as I can and Great Food has been a really good source of information. I was particularly interested to read the pork pie article [Life of Pie, Issue 6] and it gave me an idea for my grandfather’s 80th birthday. I discovered that Mark Patrick Butchers in Birstall are registered makers of genuine Melton Mowbray pork pies and as they are now only down the road, I called them to see if they did any special (large!) pies. The response from them was just what I’d wanted and the result tasted just as good. They were able to produce a pie the size of a cake and even cut ‘80’ out of pastry for the top. It went down a treat at my grandfather’s party, but I’m not sure how much was left for him in the end as everyone wanted to sample it. A real hit. Thank you for the inspiration. Emily Reid, Anstey political aspects of cocoa was most interesting, as was the tasting. Shop owner and teacher Peter Gardner has made me want to learn more. On a different note, we recently ate at The Berkeley Arms, Wymondham, which lived up to your positive review, with the bonus of meeting some of the local allotment group who provide veg. That really is local food. Ann Ellis, Stamford

Your tweets Join the daily chat. Go to Twitter, follow @greatfoodmag and share your tips @MMporkpieman

@greatfoodmag D&M pork pies will be at Tatton Park Show July 20-24. Go to www.porkpie.co.uk for more info

@BritishPies

Thanks to @greatfoodmag for a lovely report on yesterday’s awards. Hope you enjoyed all the pies!

4 Great Food Magazine

@thrillgallery

@greatfoodmag At university I made a shepherd's pie from tinned steak, leftover Xmas port and Marmite. It was topped with mashed oven chips

@thetiffinfoodco

@greatfoodmag Why not try Chennai Dosa on Belgrave Road, Leicester?

STAR LETTER

And your favourite local butchers…

@LocalFoodHeroes

@greatfoodmag Joseph Morris in South Kilworth - abattoir with shop selling good meat at below supermarket prices

@Itch_Gallery

@greatfoodmag Got to be Hambleton Fine Foods on Gaol St, Oakham! Top quality meat, very knowledgeable and skilled butchers

The writer of each issue’s Star Letter wins a free meal for two at awardwinning Entropy restaurant in Leicester. For more on Entropy, go to entropy life.com Entropy

maiyango.indd 2

14/6/11 10:12:56

THE BIG PICTURE

Tukata’s world ARTICLE & PHOTOS: abrackenbury.com

6 Great Food Magazine

Tukata Bird

She grew up in Bangkok surrounded by food, noise and 11 siblings but then found herself in Rutland. Chef Tukata Bird now loves to fuse local with Asian

n Saturday mornings in Stamford’s town centre, few faces are as wellknown or loved as that of Thai chef Tukata Bird. Standing at her stall, leaning over a wok, Tukata concocts spice-infused delicacies. “I love to cook on the street,” says Tukata. “I want to provide people with happy, healthy food, full of fresh local meat and veg – and I love to have fun with them too!” Her delight in banter makes perfect sense when you learn she was the eleventh of twelve children. The family home was in central Bangkok and food was at the heart of the household. “Our table was always full of wonderful food,” says Tukata. “As I was the youngest girl, while my sisters went abroad to study I stayed at home and helped on our farm. My mother would send me to pick herbs, telling me to touch them and smell them before I decided whether to pick them.” Tukata’s mother spent eight years learning in the kitchens of the Royal House of Thailand. It was an exacting education in what Tukata describes as the “culture of herbs”. “She spent years just chopping and learning how to blend herbs

before she was even allowed to cook,” says Tukata. In all, four generations of the family studied and worked in these disciplined kitchens. By passing all of this on to Tukata, Thien made sure the knowledge would last. It was marriage to English architect David Bird that saw Tukata leave Thailand to establish her own family home in the quintessentially English village of Ryhall, Rutland. As culture shocks go it must have been extreme. Tukata laughingly recalls how she was “like the only foreigner in the village” – but her sunny nature meant she soon became part of the community. “When I arrived I had to make big changes,” she laughs. “You have to adapt. In Thailand you have, say, lemongrass; here you have lemon

balm and lemon thyme and a little sage – you can use these together to replace lemongrass and make a green curry. You can make good Thai food just using local ingredients – I’ve been here for 25 years and I’ve always used local ingredients. I use fresh produce and don’t take short cuts.” This approach has done much to help the success of Tuk Tuk Foods, her own brand of award-winning curry pastes and dipping sauces. Back in the 1990s Tukata also ran the Mai Thai Noodle House in Stamford. Local devotees of her street food stall will be delighted to learn that having teamed up with local entrepreneur Mark Lapsley, Tukata is a central player at a new version of Mai Thai (see below). Despite it being a Thai restaurant, Tukata is promising to use local ingredients throughout. But it’s not just local food she’s fond of – she embraces local traditions too. “I love pork pie,” she exclaims. “I serve it with Thai dim sum, sweet chilli sauce, raw salad and a soya salad dressing – the vegetables lighten it.” Having sampled the results, the combination is so heavenly that Melton Mowbray and Bangkok don’t seem so far apart after all.

FOR O OF TUK NE A RECIPE TA’S TURN T S, O P39

CONTACT Mai Thai Bistro, 2 Cheyne Lane, Stamford, Lincs, www.maithai bistro.co.uk

Thai with a local twist Mai Thai, located in the middle of Stamford, opened at the end of May. “I want it to be a family restaurant, where everyone can taste new flavours made using local ingredients,” says Tukata. “You’ll be able to buy my sauces and dips there, and some other local foods too – it’ll be somewhere you can experience food from the other side of the world but know that what you are eating was locally grown and locally made.”

Great Food Magazine 7

What’s

Cooking? EDITED BY: MATT WRIGHT

Welbeck Farm Shop and, above, Boutique Aromatique chocolates

Small MANOR FARM TALKS Award-winning Manor Farm Dairy of Thrussington, Leicestershire – which has been hand-making yogurt for 32 years – is holding talks for groups interested in finding out more about running a dairy and producing yogurt in the supermarket age. manorfarmyogurts.com

WOODFIRED OVENS Fancy cooking perfect pizza on your patio? Bluestone aluminium-topped outdoor woodfired ovens now have a Midlands agent. For more details call Will on 07739 456107 or go to: bluestonewoodfiredovens.co.uk

NEW RAILWAY BISTRO Loughborough’s Great Central Railway, one of Britain’s last working steam railways, has opened a café/ bistro at Quorn station, Leics. GCR also operates dining services on board its heritage steam trains. www.gcrailway.co.uk

OLIVER SURPRISE

WELBECK LEADS ARTISAN REVIVAL

Foodie enclave evolves on Nottinghamshire estate

cluster of artisan food and drink businesses is continuing to expand organically on Welbeck Estate, Nottinghamshire, providing an inspiring model of how small producers can succeed by grouping together to help each other out.

Celeb chef Jamie Oliver turned up out of the blue at a local Indian restaurant recently while filming for a Channel 4 show set to air this autumn. Staff at family-run Marten Inn, Leicester, which specialises in home-style Indian cooking (see p52), were “shocked but happy”.

GREAT FOOD CLUB If you like supporting local producers, eating out at great restaurants and shopping at top delis then sign up to receive updates on Great Food Club. Coming soon, members will enjoy superb offers and exclusive events. Subscribers to Great Food magazine will gain automatic membership. More at: www.greatfoodmag.com

8 Great Food Magazine

The School of Artisan Food has flourished since 2009

Chocolate maker Boutique Aromatique is the latest business to arrive on Welbeck near Worksop, joining a bakery, brewery, farm shop, cheesemaker and the School of Artisan Food. Historic Welbeck Estate, owned by the Parente family and centre of a unique project to build a sustainable community of creative businesses, became home to Stichelton cheese and a farm shop in 2006, before being joined by a bakery. It was during the setting up of the bakery that it became clear a training centre for artisan producers was needed, which in turn led to the creation of the not-for-profit School of Artisan Food in 2009. Welbeck Abbey Brewery have just joined the party in June 2011, and Boutique Aromatique began making patisserie and selling fragrant chocolates on the estate in July this year.

SUCCESS FOR LOCAL COOK

Quit work, write cook book In May 2010, Vanessa Kimbell from north Northamptonshire handed in her notice as an IT management consultant and gave herself 12 months to write a cookbook. In May 2011, Prepped, published by Spring Hill, rolled off the presses. Described as a “multitasking masterpiece for

time-short foodies”, the book now has 100% five-star reviews on Amazon. “I wanted to do something new and challenging,” said Vanessa. “I’m tickled pink to have done it – my great grandchildren will all have copies!” Vanessa shares a recipe on p20.

Local food news LOCAL FOOD WATCH

LOCAL FOOD COMMUNITY KEEPS ON LAUNCHING New businesses continue to spring up all over region

ocal food and drink entrepreneurs appear to be busier than ever. Market Harborough has seen the launch of deli Simply Simon’s, and a few miles away at Farndon Fields Farm Shop a new deli counter is being installed. Up the road, Langton Farm Shop has opened, while a new cider called Scrambler is now being pressed in the village of Hallaton. In Leicester, the Original Cookware Company has opened spin-off St Martin’s Tea and Coffee Merchants, while over in Stamford,

Mai Thai bistro (see p7) and Stamford Cookery School are now up and running. Meanwhile, Melton Mowbray’s new Artisan Cheese Fair in June attracted over 2000 visitors, with some cheese sellers running out of stock. “The local food and drink sector is growing,” said Stephen Gould, managing director of Everards, at the launch of Project Artisan (see p10). “The proportion of our 172 licensees sourcing locally has grown fast over the past year, and drinkers are seeking out local craft ales.” By contrast, in April, Stilton maker Quenby Dairy went into administration.

Rocco Recommends “Excellent places that let me in”

STAPLEFORD PARK “Why on earth Julian the Basset Hound didn’t tell me about this luxurious place after his visit I have no idea. On arrival I received a dog bed, water bowl and two Boneos wrapped in ribbons. Not bad, although a Mrs King’s pork pie would have been better. I was also handed a ‘doggy rules’ letter, which I promptly chewed up, before being admonished by my owner and sent off to be looked after by reception staff while he scoffed his fat face in the restaurant.” Stapleford Park Hotel, Leics LE14 2EF, 01572 787000, www.staplefordpark.com

{

Three new local food businesses

Launde gets foodie F

reshly refurbished Launde Abbey in rural east Leicestershire, which dates back to the 12th century, is running cookery demonstrations using food grown in the grounds. “We want to widen the appeal of Launde,” said Abbey spokesperson Suzanne Page. The next event is on September 14.

}

Brilliant beer garde ns THE ANNE OF CLEVES

Hazel’s Maya chocolate puds

Hazel Spurr from the Vale of Belvoir has fused an old English pud recipe with traditionally grown organic cocoa beans from Mesoamerica. The result is a delicious chocolate hit. More information at mayachocolatepuddings.com

A hidden gem in the centre of the town that calls itself Britain’s Rural Food Capital, the walled garden to the rear of the Anne of Cleves pub is a beautifully looked after sun trap. Overlooked by St Mary’s Church spire, on a fine day this is one of the region’s best town beer gardens. The building is said to have been given to Ann of Cleves by Henry VIII as part of their divorce settlement. Anne of Cleves, 13 Burton St, Melton Mowbray, 01664 481336

Great Food Magazine 9

LOCAL FOOD NEWS

EVERARDS TO WORK WITH ARTISAN PRODUCERS

Coming soon... artisan bakers kneading and baking in local pubs

OCAL N E •L

• LOCA WS

L NEW S CA

The Leicestershire brewer and property owner wants bakers and other artisan food producers to run their businesses from its pubs

EWS • LO LN

amily-owned Leicestershire brewer Everards has revealed details of an exciting new scheme called Project Artisan. The pioneering project aims to install local food and drink businesses – such as bakers, chocolate makers and butchers – in suitable Everards pubs or outbuildings. For example, an artisan baker could rent space within a local Everardsowned pub. From there they could run their business, bake loaves and sell them to the pub and its customers – and also potentially to some of the 172 hostelries within the Everards’ portfolio. The brewer would help each

artisan producer to transform his or her new building, while also offering capital, business support and marketing assistance. “We’re really excited about teaming up with artisan food producers,” said Everards managing director Stephen Gould. “Everards was once a small artisan brewer that grew, and we love the idea of using our experience to help craft producers to succeed. Project Artisan will also regenerate pubs and turn them into spaces relevant to today’s market.” Everards is working alongside lottery-funded The Real Bread Campaign. Chris Young from the

Campaign said: “Everards is offering a great opportunity to people who need help in bringing real bread back to the hearts of local communities, and take its rightful place alongside real ale in a real local.” Project Artisan is an evolution of Everards’ Project William scheme (see below), which launched in 2007 and saw the brewer buy run-down local pubs and work with independent artisan brewers to transform them into bustling brewery taps. Anyone interested in Project Artisan should email Everards’ managing director Stephen Gould – stephengould@everards.co.uk

DELI-PUB Leicester pub the Rutland & Derby gives a clue as to how a Project Artisan hostelry might work. The R&D has been refurbished and now has a deli counter next to the bar. everards.co.uk

FROM OLD BOOZERS TO THRIVING ALE HOUSES Everards began Project William in 2007. The scheme sees the brewery buy up tired old pubs and work with microbreweries and ambitious landlords to turn these outdated, nicotine-stained BEFORE

buildings into modern brewery taps serving a range of real ales. Everards allows partner breweries to brand Project William pubs’ with their own logos and serve their own beers inside, along with guest AFTER

Everards and Titanic Brewery refreshed the Royal Exchange, Stone

10 Great Food Magazine

ales. Project William has so far led to the transformation of 22 pubs in various locations across the Midlands, with Everards – Publican Pub Company of the Year for the last three years – committed to

BEFORE

tackling more. Project Artisan will see the same approach but with Everards partnering independent food producers. Great Food awaits the first pub-bakery with baited breath. AFTER

The Greyhound, Newcastle under Lyme, is another result of Project William

waitrose.com/oadby

Discover something delicious. Explore Waitrose in Oadby. Harborough Road, Oadby, Leicester LE2 4LA

waitrose.indd 2

Have a taste of Waitrose on us. Save £5 when you spend £30 or more at Waitrose Oadby on or before 31 July 2011. Terms and Conditions of offer: 1. To claim your £5 off, present this voucher at your local Waitrose Oadby, Harborough Road checkout when you spend £30 or more, in a single transaction, on or before the 31 July 2011. 2. Only one voucher per person, to be submitted upon redemption and voucher can only be used once. 3. Only original vouchers will be accepted. 4. May only be used in exchange for goods, excluding: tobacco, stamps, mobile top ups, e-Top up vouchers, lottery purchases, Gift Vouchers, cash back transactions and car park charges. 5. Offer does not apply online or to purchase petrol. 6. Offer valid in above-named Waitrose branch only. 7. Cannot be used in conjunction with Partnership discount or any other offer. 8. No cash alternative. 9. Value of the voucher: 0.01p. 10. Offer subject to availability.

9210139610010012

8/6/11 12:32:27

THINGS TO DO

Do this! Delicious things to do in the region this summer June 29-July 10

Phone to book

Taking places throughout the city, this 12-day celebration of food and drink incorporates festival menus at restaurants and a series of events, such as a Sushi Making Masterclass at Chino Latino and Pasta Making Demos at Piccolino. A great time to check out the culinary delights of Nottingham. wearenottingham.co.uk, 0115 9585287

Leicester’s multi award-winning, local producer-supporting boutique hotel and restaurant can cater for between two and 40 budding mixologists. Make sure you get the recipe for their Black Forest Gateaux cocktail while you’re there. From £25 per person. maiyango.com, 0116 2518898

NOTTINGHAM FOOD FESTIVAL

For a regularly updated event diary, go to www. greatfood mag.co.uk

COCKTAIL MAKING CLASSES AT HOTEL MAIYANGO

Monday-Saturday, 2pm-4pm

July 16

Sip from fine china and try to remain civilised in the face of delicious cakes as you take afternoon tea in the attractive surroundings of one of the region’s newest deli/cafés. The Vale of Belvoir’s Cakehole also has a good deli counter. Book in advance. barrowbycakehole.co.uk, 01476 564250

Cooking demonstrations by baker and Guardian food writer Dan Lepard are the star attractions of Oundle Food Fest. There will also be local producer stalls and other talks, including two by Arthur Potts Dawson, founder of London’s People’s Supermarket. Festival: free; Dan Lepard demos: £12.50 each. oundlefoodfestival.co.uk, 01832 274734

OUNDLE FOOD FESTIVAL

AFTERNOON TEA AT THE BARROWBY CAKEHOLE

Real bread comes to Oundle

July 12 and 19

SEAN HOPE COOKERY DEMONSTRATIONS Sean Hope, Michelin-starred chef and co-owner of Rutland’s Olive Branch and Stathern’s Red Lion, is running seasonal cookery demos. On July 12 he’ll be holding fort at the Red Lion (£40) and on July 19 at the Olive Branch (£45). Prices include lunch. theolivebranchpub.com, 01780 410355

July 23

SQUISITO SECRET SUPPER CLUB Squisito Deli, artisan producers of Italian food (using local ingredients) based in Monks Kirby, Warwickshire, are fast gaining an enviable reputation for their supper clubs. Price £25. Bring your own wine. squisito-deli.co.uk, 07824 314235

Salt cod cooked by Sean Hope at one of his previous cookery demonstrations

August 7

August 27

August 28 & 29

The UK’s foodiest school on Nottinghamshire’s Welbeck Estate (see p8) runs several short courses including this one-day ice cream making session with Kitty Travers of London’s La Grotta Ices. Discover the best techniques and ingredients – £105. schoolofartisanfood.org, 01909 532171

Food Gusto is a social enterprise set up to promote great quality local food and drink. Gusto’s bustling summer festival is held at Sir John Moore Foundation, Appleby Magna, attracting exhibitors from Leicestershire, Derbyshire, Warwicks and Staffs. £3 entry. www.foodgusto.co.uk, 01530 411337

Magnificent Burghley House near Stamford runs three Fine Food markets a year in conjunction with Tastes of Lincolnshire. Great local food in fine surroundings. burghley.co.uk, 01780 761992

ICE CREAM MAKING AT THE SCHOOL OF ARTISAN FOOD

High days & holidays JULY 15: St Swithin’s Day and many schools break for summer (regional variations) AUGUST 1: Lammas Day AUGUST 29: Late Summer Bank Holiday

12 Great Food Magazine

FOOD GUSTO SUMMER FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL

BURGHLEY HOUSE FINE FOOD MARKET

MORE OF THE REGION’S EVENTS JULY 21 & AUG 25: Wine tastings at Castle Cottage, Oakham (01572 757952) AUGUST 28-29: Northants Food Show, Holdenby House (01604 820011)

SEPTEMBER 14: Special guest chef, Launde Abbey, www.launde.org.uk SEPTEMBER 17: Rutland Food Festival, discover-rutland.co.uk

SEPTEMBER 17-18: Belgrave Hall Good Food Fair, Leicester OCTOBER 1-2: East Midlands Food Festival, Melton Mowbray

Farmers’ markets Leicestershire & Rutland

Farmers’ markets Where’s your nearest?

ASHBY DE LA ZOUCH

MARKET BOSWORTH

RETFORD

When Third Sat of month, 9am-2pm

When Fourth Sun, 9am-2pm

When Third Sat, from 9am

BLABY

MARKET HARBOROUGH

When Fourth Sat of month, 9am-1pm (third Sat in Dec)

When First Thurs, 8am-3.30pm

When Third Thurs, 9am-3pm

BURBAGE

MELTON MOWBRAY

When First Sat, 9am-1pm

When Every Tues and Fri, 9am-2pm

BROUGHTON ASTLEY

SOUTHWELL

WEST BRIDGFORD When Second and fourth Sat, 8.30am-1.30pm

WOLLATON

When Second Sun, 10am-2pm

OAKHAM

When First Sat, 9am-1pm

When Third Sat, 8am-2pm

CASTLE DONINGTON

WORKSOP

STAMFORD (LINCS)

When Second Fri, 8.30am-2.30pm

When Second Sat, 9am-12.30pm

EARL SHILTON When Third Sat, 9am-1pm

HINCKLEY

When Every other Fri, 8.30am-3pm (July 1, July 15 etc)

UPPINGHAM

Derbyshire ALFRETON

SWADLINCOTE

STRATFORD-ON-AVON

When Third Sat of month, from 9am

When First and third Sat, 9am-2pm

Warwickshire

SUTTON COLDFIELD

ATHERSTONE

When Second Fri, 9am-3pm

When Third Sat, 9am-2pm

WARWICK

BEDWORTH

When Fifth Sat (irregular), 9am-2pm

When Last Weds, from 9am

BIRMINGHAM HIGH ST HARBOURNE When Second Sat, 9am-2pm

BIRMINGHAM NEW STREET When First and third Weds, 9am-4pm

COLESHILL When Fourth Fri, 10am-2pm

When Third Fri, 8am-1pm

When Third Sat, 9am-1pm

Nottinghamshire

BELPER

BEESTON

When Second Sat, 9am-2pm

When Fourth Fri, 9am-2pm

CHESTERFIELD

LEICESTER

BINGHAM

When First Thurs, 10am-4pm

When Third Sat, from 9am

When Second Thur and last Sun, from 9am

MANSFIELD

DERBY

NUNEATON

LOUGHBOROUGH

When Third Tues, 9am-4pm

When Third Thur, 9am-3pm

When Third Fri , 9am-2pm

NEWARK

HEANOR

LUTTERWORTH

When First Wed, from 9am

When Third Sat, 9am-3pm

When Last Thurs, 9am-2pm

When Second Sat, 9am-1.30pm

NOTTINGHAM

RIPLEY

SOLIHULL

When Third Fri, 9am-4pm

When First Sat, 9am-3pm

When First Fri, 9am-5pm

When Third Thurs, 9am-2pm

KIBWORTH BEAUCHAMP When Third Sat, 9am-1pm

When Second Weds, 9am-4pm

S B*)B-XO\$XJ +$/) LQGG 6HF

COVENTRY When Second Thurs, 9am-4.30pm

LEAMINGTON SPA When Fourth Sat, 9am-2pm

RUGBY

Northamptonshire BRACKLEY

When Third Sat, 9am-1pm

DAVENTRY When First Sat, 9am-1pm

OUNDLE When Second Sat, 9am-2pm

HIGHAM FERRERS When Last Sat, 8am-3pm

NORTHAMPTON When Third Thurs, 9am-1.30pm

TOWCESTER When Second Fri, 9am-2pm

WELLINGBOROUGH When Last Thurs, 9am-2pm NB We’ve used a number of sources to compile this list. Always check market is running before setting off

Food writer Charles Campion analyses a pasty

AWARDS

British Pie Awards 2011 Sixty judges, 619 pies, one champion ARTICLE & PHOTOS: MATT WRIGHT

he concept of 60 judges bent over prodding and tasting 619 pies in a church is either amusing, alarming, plain odd or darn excellent, depending on your opinion. Hearing the words, “And the winner is... Morecambe Football Club” coming from the pulpit is even more surreal, but that’s exactly what happened at the third British Pie Awards, held in beautiful St Mary’s Church, Melton Mowbray on June 8. Organised by the Melton Mowbray Pie Association to celebrate British pie making and to boost the trade, the most notable local winner was Mrs King’s of Cotgrave, Notts, who cleaned up in the Melton Pork Pie category. Bouverie Lodge of Nether Broughton, Leics won the Apple Pie class, and Croots Farm Shop of Duffield, Derbys tasted Gold for their Steak & Kidney Pie. Other local medal winners were Northfield Farm of Cold Overton and Leicester’s Walkers Charnwood Bakery. But the Awards belonged to Morecambe FC who, having won in the Football Pie category, went on to the final shoot-out and surprised many by calmly slotting their Chicken, Ham and Leek Pie into the bottom corner to lift the trophy.

The Class Winners Supreme Champion Chicken, Ham & Leek Pie by Morecambe Football Club, Lancashire

Judges are briefed before getting to work

Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Mrs King’s Pies of Cotgrave, Nottinghamshire

Pork Pie Walkers Charnwood Bakery, Leicester Steak & Kidney Pie Turners Catering Pies of Bognor Regis, West Sussex

Savoury Pie (Hot) Chicken, Leek and Lava Bread Pie by Leonardo’s Deli of Ruthin, Denbighshire

Savoury Pie (Cold) Chicken and Ham Pie by Chunk of Ottery St Mary, Devon

Fish Pie Smoked Eel, Leek and Horseradish Pie by The Great North Pie Company of Stockport, Cheshire

Vegetarian Pie Cheshire Blue Cheese Pie by The Great North Pie Company of Stockport, Cheshire Cornish Pasty Crantock Bakery of Newquay, Cornwall Other Pasty Proper Cornish of Bodmin, Cornwall British Apple Pie Bouverie Lodge Quality Foods of Nether Broughton, Leicestershire

Other Dessert Pie Cherry Pie by Kensey Foods of Launceston, Cornwall Football Pie Chicken, Ham and Leek Pie by Morecambe Football Club, Lancashire

Small Producers’ Special Award Chicken, Ham and Leek Pie by Morecambe FC

WIN: FLAVOUR OF MELTON HAMPER

To celebrate its 160th anniversary, Melton Mowbray pork pie baker Dickinson & Morris is offering you the chance to win one of three Flavour of Melton hampers packed with regional delicacies – just in time for the picnic season. Dickinson & Morris Melton Mowbray pork pies are made with uncured British pork and baked without a supporting tin or hoop, to give the classic bow-sided shape. The hamper also contains other traditional produce from the region including Blue Stilton, Melton Hunt Cake and elderflower cordial.

To enter, go to www.greatfoodmag.co.uk and follow the link Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe on Nottingham Street, Melton Mowbray, was set up by John Dickinson in 1851. In 1886 Joseph Morris was taken on as an apprentice pie maker and the partnership between John and Joseph was cemented when the business became Dickinson & Morris in 1901. To mark the 160th anniversary of their pie making in Melton Mowbray, Dickinson & Morris has launched a family tree challenge to find living descendants of the business founders. In its search, Dickinson & Morris has teamed up with www.ancestry.co.uk, the UK’s family history website. More info at www.porkpie.co.uk/160 CONTACT: Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe, 10 Nottingham St, Melton, Leics LE13 1NW; Twitter @160yearsofpies; closing date: Aug 31, 2011. Full terms and conditions at www.greatfoodmag.co.uk

14 Great Food Magazine

The Telegraph’s Xanthe Clay and master baker Richard Watkin grapple with Melton pork pies

East Midlands Today presenter Dominic Heale

Mrs King’s Pork Pies

2011 Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Champion Mrs King’s Pork Pies of Cotgrave was established by Mrs Elizabeth King in 1853. Now run by the Hartland family (pictured, above left), the business mainly sells its pies in London’s Borough Market and Selfridges. You can also buy Mrs King’s pies online via www.mrskingsporkpies.co.uk

Chairman of judges Hugh Weeks with the Supreme Champion

Stephen Hallam, MD of Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe

Judging in full swing in St Mary’s Church, Melton

L-r: Mary Ibbotson, Martin Peters and Rachel Green

Great Food Magazine 15

OUT & ABOUT

Sam Hagger and Daila Barghouthy Above left: Paul Morris from Heightons Bakery

It’s been busy at Leicester Market, with the Summer Food Festival coinciding with the launch of a new food area

Market Corner & Prasanta Das and Amardeep Singh

Keith Charlton of Warwickshire baker WH Gayton & Sons

‘Market Corner can help to bridge the disconnect between producer and consumer’ – Peter Soulsby

Everards ladies Sam Ball and Claire Cannell

16 Great Food Magazine

Mayor Peter Soulsby enjoys Market Corner

Street food

Scrambler, a new Leicestershire cider

Caitlin McReynolds and Joe Petch of Entropy restaurant

‘We sell globally but want to be part of Leicester’ – Tiny Deol

Andy Ritchie from Deli Flavour at the Summer Food Festival

Faiza of Middle Eastern food specialist Al-Mishkat

Low-calorie curry sauce entrepreneur Tiny Deol

food festival fun

ou could almost think it had been planned all along. The opening of Leicester’s new Market Corner development in May happened just in time for the city’s Summer Food & Drink festival, and also turned out to be the first public engagement for the city’s new mayor. The presence of Sir Peter Soulsby at the opening of Market Corner certainly helped to ensure the television cameras were out in force. And, crucially, the people of Leicester flocked to check out the 20 new gazebo-style stalls, manned by carefully selected local traders offering high quality produce. Also thriving was the city’s Summer Food & Drink Festival, which took place just a few days after the launch of

First reaction from the Market Corner traders was uniformly positive. Irrepressible curry entrepreneur Tiny Deol had sold out of her CurrySlim range of cooking sauces by 1pm and was taking written orders. “While we sell around the world, we love Leicester and want to be a part of it,” she said. “This new development seems to have lifted everyone’s spirits and it’s a pleasure to be here.” Harborough-based Heightons Bakery had also sold out of their sun-dried tomato bread, focaccia and seeded rolls. Heightons’ Paul Morris said the opportunity to be in a dedicated food area with high footfall was attractive: “There’s a really well-chosen product mix, too,” he added. The new area also enables restaurants to have a presence in the heart of the city. Amanda Fernandes of Goan

Who’s at the Corner?

Other traders at Friday and Saturday’s Market Corner include Bobby’s Indian restaurant (see p52), pork specialists Woodhouse Farm and Viva La Cupcake.

‘Thousands of people enjoyed 180 stalls at Leicester’s Summer Food Festival’ Market Corner. Thousands of food lovers enjoyed 180 stalls at the festival, offering everything from cupcakes to vegetarian curry, and there was a real buzz around Leicester Market for the entire event. Many of the pictures on this spread were taken at the Summer Food Festival. But back to the launch of Market Corner, which is an important development for Leicester Market, designed to reinvigorate the entire operation. Mayor Soulsby told Great Food that he was keen to see as much local produce sold there as possible: “There’s too big a disconnect between producers and consumers and this can help to close that gap. There’s more to the region than cheese and pies,” he added. “For example, I’ve visited local farms that produce superb meat – and this flexible space can showcase them.”

restaurant Anjuna said they would use their stall to promote the restaurant and get customer feedback and encourage people to try out something new. Anjuna’s chefs will be cooking on site and Amanda said the Goan specialities of chicken xacuti and potato chops stuffed with marinated lamb were already proving extremely popular. Italian restaurant Casa Romana, tucked away on Leicester’s Albion Street, has thrived for over 20 years but is a notoriously hard-to-locate venue with no signage. So it’s a surprise to find them at Market Corner – with a big banner. Chef Jackie Griffin said they will focus on simple lunches with the aim of tempting people back to the restaurant. There are speciality food stalls at Market Corner every Friday and Saturday. Q Tim Burke

CONTACT Leicester Market, Market Place, Leicester LE1 5HQ leicestermarket.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 17

LOCAL PRODUCERS

The ice pack

Move over Ben & Jerry; here are Ringswood, Quorndon and Gopsall ARTICLE & PHOTOS: MATT WRIGHT

ew foods embody summer fun like a cornet filled with glistening globes of ice cream. We’re not talking Mr Whippy here, although most of us have happy childhood memories of melting 99s and chasing Tony’s van after hearing it tinkle out the theme to Match of the Day.

On sale at Oakdale Farm Shop, Rearsby

No, we’re talking about the proper stuff, high in butterfat, made by small-scale artisan producers using milk and cream from local farms. Happily, the region boasts at least three ice cream makers who fit the bill. So next time you fancy a rum and raisin (or a Shepherd’s Pie cornet – see below), why not

give the big boys a wide berth and track down cold stuff that’s been made with love on local farms? Two producers here use milk from their own Friesians and the third uses cow juice from a mile away. They’re passionate about what they do and make great ice cream. We know. We’ve sampled them.

Ringswood Ice Cream

Made on a friendly family farm in Warwickshire

Cestersover Farm in Pailton, Warwickshire have been churning out Ringswood ice cream (named after their herd of British Friesians) for 20 years. “We started when milk quotas came in,” says Brian Dalby, who has farmed 500 acres at Pailton since 1968. “We use milk from our cows and cream from local farms. Ice cream sales make up 15% of the business and are holding up well.” Four generations of the Dalby family work at Cestersover, the youngest being entrepreneurial 17-year-old Bethan, who has launched a range of traditionally made butter from scratch, which she sells to pubs, bakers and farm shops. Ringswood ice cream is on sale in several farm shops in Leicestershire, Cambridgeshire and Gloucestershire. Some of the wackier flavours they’ve been asked to create include chicken (for a local radio station), and Shepherd’s Pie. “Vanilla is still the best seller, though,” chuckles Brian.

CONTACT Ringswood Ice Cream, Pailton, www.ringswood.co.uk, 01788 832188

Friesians and lush fields make great ice cream

18 Great Food Magazine

ICE CREAM MAKER 1

Sheila, Bethan and Brian Dalby

Ice cream

Quorndon Country

Made with Lubcloud Dairy milk If you’ve eaten out in Leicestershire, chances are you’ve enjoyed some of Peter Crowe’s ice cream. Tucked away in an outbuilding at Bawdon Lodge Farm near Woodhouse Eaves, 40-year-old Peter makes ice cream in a huge variety of flavours using organic milk and cream that’s travelled just one mile from Lubcloud Dairy. Peter supplies restaurants and can create virtually any flavour. Having been a chef himself at venues such as The George Hotel of Stamford and Stapleford Park, he knows all about high standards. “I took this business on seven years ago when I got tired of the hours that chefs have to keep,” says Peter.

ICE CREAM MAKER 2

CONTACT Quorndon Country Ice Cream, Charley Crossroads LE12 9YE, 07843 618943

Peter combines flavour with Lubcloud cream and milk in his churner...

...a few hours later out comes fresh, local ice cream

“We’ve made Shepherd’s Pie flavour but vanilla is still the biggest seller” Gopsall Fresh Cream of Leicestershire

The ice cream making room on Culloden Farm on the Gopsall Estate near Twycross, west Leicestershire is a symphony of spotless stainless steel. From here, Gopsall Fresh Farmhouse Ice Cream is created by the Thorp family – comprising brothers Tony and Norman, Tony’s wife Alison and their daughters Kitty, Victoria and Jo – using milk from the farm’s 100 or so British Friesians. It is then sold across the region in farm shops including Farndon Fields, Market Harborough (see p68), Roots at Thorpe Farm, Barkby Thorpe, and Wing Hall, Rutland. Gopsall ice cream is also sold at Ashby, Market Bosworth and West Bridgford farmers’ markets. The Thorp family have worked the land near Twycross – part of the Crown Estate – since 1934. Culloden Farm now produces dairy, beef and ICE cereal, and started making ice CREAM MAKER cream in 2007. 3 “British Friesian milk has a butterfat content of 4%, whereas Holstein milk contains 3.8%,” says Tony Thorp. “Ice cream has to have at least 5% butterfat to be called ice cream, so we boost fat content using cream from the local dairy. Our ice cream has a fat content of 8-10%.”

CONTACT Gopsall Fresh, Twycross,

Kitty Thorp in the ice cream making room.

There are around 100 or so Friesians at Culloden Farm

TURN OVER F O COOL R RECIPE S

Where did you get that hat?

www.gopsallfresh.org.uk, 0116 2232372

Great Food Magazine 19

ICE CREAM

Strawberry,Vanilla & Rose ice cream VANESSA KIMBELL’S

A delicate combination to enjoy this summer, says Vanessa Kimbell

he strawberries came early this year. I never eat them out of season as they are nothing but a disappointment – so I gorge on them in the summer not least because their perfect state is so fleeting. Under ripe they lack fragrance; overripe they lose their texture. Really, strawberries are best served warm from the summer sun – left to ripen on their own they develop a deep sweetness and it is at this point you must savour the moment. Seize the opportunity and catch their heavenly taste in ice cream, emphasising their feminine charm with rose and vanilla.

Ones you’ve picked are best Yes, you can buy strawberries but what a delight to pick your own. It’s one of those things we all think we’ll do but before you know it, the season is finished – so go this weekend! My favourite PYO is Dovecote Farm (see p66).

Prepped!

This recipe is from Prepped, my new cook book for time-short foodies. In Prepped the recipes link together to save time. For example, with mackerel and dill paté you make double, using the other half for mackerel and dill pasta for supper – same ingredients, two meals.

Vanessa Kimbell

Great Food Magazine’s Strawberry, Kiwi and Mint Lollies Refreshing, healthy and good for entertaining little ones This is a great recipe to make with kids. Visit your local Pick Your Own Farm (there’s a PYO map at www.greatfoodmag.co.uk), stock up on fruit – it doesn’t have to be strawberries – and get lolly making. But first you’ll need some moulds – ours are by Kitchencraft and are ideal because they catch drips.

To make about 10 iced lollies

* 200g PYO strawberries * 4 tbsp caster sugar

(depending on sweetness of strawberries) * Splash orange or lemon juice * 200g kiwi fruit, peeled and chopped * 10 fresh mint leaves * 500g award winning Manor Farm Smooth and Creamy Yogurt from Thrussington, Leicestershire * Lolly moulds Strawberry picking at Seldom Seen Farm, Billesdon, Leicestershire

20 Great Food Magazine

Wash, hull and halve strawberries and place in a large saucepan with sugar, kiwi fruit and orange juice.

Recipes Strawberry, Vanilla and Rose ice cream

FOR T MORE S WO U SUMMEPER RECIPE R TURN T S, PAGE 7O 8

A cool and fragrant taste of summer

Serves 8

* 500ml double cream * 200ml full fat milk * 5 egg yolks * 425g fresh strawberries * 125g vanilla sugar (or caster sugar with a vanilla pod) * 4 fresh roses or 3-4 drops of rose essence

1 Put the cream, milk and egg yolks and sugar in a heavy-based saucepan and stir over a moderate heat. Keep moving the liquid using a whisk (add the vanilla pod at this point if you don’t have vanilla sugar). 2 Keep stirring as the custard thickens. This can take 20–25 minutes so take your time and don’t be tempted to heat it quickly (you’ll get scrambled eggs!). The mixture will thicken. When the custard easily coats the back of a spoon, remove it from the heat. 3 Check the rose petals for any extra guests and then drop them into the custard. Allow the custard to cool. I leave mine overnight – but if you are in a hurry use rose essence instead. 4 Hull the strawberries and blend to a liquid in a food processor. Sieve the petals out of the custard and pour into the strawberries. Blend the mixture. It is now ready to make into ice cream (if you want you can store this for up to two days before making it into ice-cream in a clean, airtight container). 5 Transfer into an ice-cream maker, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to make the ice-cream. OR... If you make this by hand then you’ll need to pour the mixture into a shallow, freezer-proof container. Freeze for about an hour and then whisk. Return to freezer and then whisk every 45 minutes, 3–4 times to prevent ice crystals forming. Use a timer to remind you – I often forget!

2 5

Simmer on a lowish heat for about ten minutes until the fruit has broken down to mainly liquid (some lumps are fine).

Remove from the heat, add your mint leaves and blend using a hand-held electric blender.

Now pour mixture into lolly moulds and place into freezer. Lollies will take a few hours to freeze.

Add the Manor Farm Yogurt (gold award winner at last year’s Nantwich Dairy Awards) and blend again.

To remove frozen lollies from moulds, place them into lukewarm water until the lollies slide out.

Great Food Magazine 21

WANT A BACK ISSUE?

Simply choose the one or ones you want, fill in the form on the page opposite and send a cheque. Alternatively, you can buy back issues online at www.greatfoodmag.co.uk

ISSUE 1

Features: BBQ guide; summer wine tips; Blue Stilton history; Whissendine Windmill. Reviews: King’s Arms, Wing; Joiner’s Arms, Bruntingthorpe; Exeter Arms, Barrowden. Pub walk: Braunston in Rutland.

ISSUE 2

Features: Make sloe gin; Chater Valley’s Mangalitza pigs; The Melton Cheeseboard. Reviews: Stapleford Park; Marquess of Exeter, Lyddington; Finch’s Arms, Rutland. Pub walk: Medbourne and Hallaton.

MISSED AN ISSUE? Back issues are £3.20 each including postage

ISSUE 3

Features: Local turkeys; Quenby Hall; game guide; Longhorn Beef Company. Reviews: Entropy, Leicester; Old Barn, Glooston; Berkeley Arms, Wymondham. Pub walk: Exton – Fort Henry – Greetham.

greatfood greatfood www.greatfoodleics.co.uk

CELEBRATING THE BEST LOCAL FOOD & DRINK

ISSUE 5

Leicestershire & Rutland

Fireside food local cooks

CELEBRATING THE BEST LOCAL FOOD & DRINK

Leicestershire & Rutland

Fresh & local www.greatfoodleics.co.uk

Leicestershire lamb, Rutland trout and the brilliance of Belgrave Road

£3.20

Warming recipes from

£3.20

ISSUE # 5

J A N / F E B ‘ 11 £ 3 . 2 0

MICHELIN STARS

Region’s cosiest hostelries revealed

Marvellous marmalade

Rosemary Jameson’s jam-making tips jam-making tips Rosemary Jameson’s

Beer & birds! How to... make ale and deal with pheasants

£3.20

COUNTRY PUBS

ISSUE #4

Your map of the region’s best eateries

PUB & RESTAURANT REVIEWS AND RECOMMENDATIONS PUB & RESTAURANT REVIEWS AND RECOMMENDATIONS

ISSUE Beer4& birds! revealed hostelries Region’s cosiest

22 Great Food Magazine

4 # E USSI

deal with pheasants How to... make ale and

02 . 3 £

Features: Region’s best country pubs; Melton Market; history of the pork pie. Reviews: Chutney Ivy, Leicester; Woodhouse, PUBS Woodhouse Eaves; Crown Inn, Sproxton. COUNTRY Pub walk: Chatsworth House. marmalade Marvellous

Country cocktails

Seasonal tipples from Stathern’s Red Lion

Tea & cakes!

Food itineraries for Mother’s Day

P26

BREW YOUR OWN ALE + EASTER CUPCAKES + PUB WALK

ISSUE 5

Features: Lambing at Launde Abbey; Belgrave Road; Evington’s Wines; Wassail! Reviews: Hammer & Pincers, Wymeswold; Caffe Italia, Melton; Hambleton Hall. Pub walk: Burrough on the Hill

ISSUE 6

Features: Life of Pie; Long Clawson Dairy; local rare breeds; elderflower cordial. Reviews: Leicester curry houses; Assiette, Stamford; Northfield Farm, Cold Overton. Pub walk: Woodhouse Eaves & Beacon Hill.

GET EVERY ISSUE FOR JUST £15 Every issue of Great Food Magazine delivered to your door for one year for just £15

WHY SUBSCRIBE?

You’ll be able to look forward to a unique, information-packed magazine that focuses on local food and drink. Each issue will be delivered to your door and bring you seasonal recipes, plus features on local producers, pubs, farm shops, restaurants & more.

GREAT FOOD CLUB

Subscribing will also give you automatic membership to Great Food Club – see p57

SUBSCRIBE AT WWW.GREATFOODMAG.CO.UK OR FILL OUT THIS FORM (PHOTOCOPIES ARE FINE) AND SEND A CHEQUE I’d like to subscribe for one year, starting with the next issue (ISSUE 8, OUT SEPTEMBER 8) I’d like to a buy back issue (please select which one or ones) ISSUE 1 ISSUE 2 ISSUE 3 ISSUE 4 ISSUE 5

ISSUE 6

YOUR DETAILS Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms First name............................................................................................................................. Surname ........................................................................................................................................................................ Address .......................................................................................................................................................................... Postcode........................................................................................................................................................................ Tel no ............................................................................................................................................................................... Email address.............................................................................................................................................................

PLEASE SEND YOUR COMPLETED ORDER FORM AND CHEQUE TO: Great Food, 7 Victoria St, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 0AR. Please make cheques payable to Rocco Media. Or, to subscribe online, go to www.greatfoodmag.co.uk and click ‘subscribe’. Terms & conditions: Unless you state otherwise, subscriptions will start with the next issue (Issue 8). The minimum term is six issues (Great Food Magazine is published bi-monthly). This offer is open until September 8, 2011. Opt-out option: Rocco Media (publisher of Great Food Magazine) would like to contact you with details of offers that we feel might be of interest to you. Please tick here if you do not want to receive information by post [ ] phone [ ] email[ ].

Great Food Magazine 23

CHEF PROFILE

BRIAN BAKER

Life after the Yellow Brick Road

He’s cheffed for Sir Elton and catered for 12,000. Brian Baker is now back home in Rutland but isn’t putting his feet up ARTICLE: TIM BURKE

yddington in Rutland is one of those perfect villages. Tucked well away from the main roads, it sits there quietly looking gorgeous. Who would have thought that behind the walls of one of its two pubs lies a story quite as dramatic as Brian Baker’s? From humble beginnings, the local lad’s journey has involved becoming the youngest ever chef to receive a Michelin star, swanning around the Mediterranean cooking for A-list celebrities, helping to invent the gastropub, catering for parties of 12,000 and eventually returning home to provide classic modern British comfort food as chef patron of the Marquess of Exeter.

In the kitchen, Lyddington

Escape from Rutland It all started in Uppingham in the late 70s, washing up at the Lake Isle Hotel and helping out at Culpin’s butchers (both still exist). By 16 he knew what he wanted, sat down with the Good Food Guide and wrote 20 letters. He nearly ended up at Raymond Blanc’s in Oxford, but eventually stayed local and joined Tim Hart’s Hambleton Hall. Armed with a CSE in home economics, he started as a commis to Michelin-starred Nick Gill (brother of critic A.A.). “After 18 months I was told I was being groomed to be head chef – I was told I was ‘a natural’,” he says. “When Nick left in 1984 I took over, aged 21, and retained the star. Of course at that age I had no man management skills whatsoever and there was a lot of pressure. Tim Hart was very good at protecting me, maybe too much on a personal level because after 10 years at Hambleton, I’d really had very little exposure to the outside world.” He needed to move on, and with the next job he was catapulted into a world of private jets and supermodels

24 Great Food Magazine

Valentino was a breeze compared to the Marquess chickens

as private chef to the Italian fashion designer Valentino. “He was charming, loved his food and had strong views about it – risottos were to be stirred for 22 minutes exactly.” On any one day Baker would find himself in Rome, Gstaad, Capri or St Tropez, cooking lunch in the office and maybe a private dinner for 12 in the evening. “There was an open budget, so shopping was amazing. It was a case of ‘Naomi and Elle are popping round’, so I’d go out and get the biggest lobsters available.” Food would be presented on huge platters so the fashionistas could pick precisely what they wanted – a sharing ethos Baker has carried forward with him ever since. Even this kind of life begins to pall, though. “It was exciting, but ultimately you exist under the shadow of someone else. You have all the trimmings, but it’s not really your life.”

Cannes parties

HOTEL PROFILE

The Marquess of Exeter A beautiful 17th century thatched building in idyllic Lyddington near Uppingham, the Marquess is part country pub, part hotel, part restaurant. It combines a rustic ambience with luxurious feel. The Marquess now has its own herb garden, laying hens and produces preserves.

After a short spell back in the UK, he returned to the Mediterranean, this time cheffing on a 200ft yacht based in Antibes, the weekend retreat of a Mexican billionaire and his glamorous wife. They would operate on Mexican time so dinner would be required at 3am, but in between weekends and the occasional trip to Seville or Tangiers, Brian could relax on deck, top up his tan and watch frolicking dolphins. Greater challenges were required and he returned to the UK to head up the busy Criterion in Piccadilly, serving 600 diners a night with high quality brasserie food. He would also assist in opening the Abingdon, a venue that helped pioneer the gastropub concept. It was hugely successful but when Capital Radio took over, thinking they knew how to make money from catering, he got out.

Traditions

Spacious and comfortable dining room

Rocket Man

In his kitchen, Brian Baker makes a point of using herbs grown in the Marquessâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; garden, including mace, coriander, peppermint and lovage.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s farmhouse chic at the Marquess

Bar area is cosy, with flagstones and original fireplace

Parathas.

Expect a warm welcome from staff Joanna Wendlant and Radek Pedikowski

Great Food Magazine 25

CHEF PROFILE “Food from the heart”

Brian loves to serve simple, tasty classics but has become best known for his sharing dishes

“Elton wasn’t a foodie like Valentino but there were plenty of parties and you can imagine the guest list” As it happened, a friend knew that one Elton John was in the market for a personal chef. Baker’s credentials checked out and he was off again to Nice. “It was hugely interesting. Elton was not a foodie like Valentino but there were plenty of parties and you can imagine the guest list when it got to events like Cannes. I’d be in the kitchen and Elton would come round to introduce Sigourney Weaver or Sharon Stone.” Baker speaks affectionately and protectively about Sir Elton, but after two years it was back to London and another change of direction with a massive corporate events company. He found himself running the annual ball for 12,000 Vodafone staff. “It was as different from personal cheffing as you can imagine. We’d create a small town in a matter of weeks, with 200 chefs in five kitchens. “I suppose I was swinging between extremes but I’m pleased and proud to have fed that number of people and done it with style.” Eventually, the prospect of his own dining pub back in Rutland started to appeal. He made it a reality with the cosy Fox and Hounds in Knossington: “It was a great pub, with a great clientele and it worked well, though there was no potential to develop it.” But a little later the Marquess of Exeter became available and it fitted

26 Great Food Magazine

From garden from fork

Guests can choose from 17 freshly refurbished bedrooms

the bill perfectly. “Two and a half years on and I think we’ve done a great job in a tough climate. The philosophy centres around great food, great service, in comfortable surroundings – it ain’t rocket science.” The Marquess has 17 newly refurbished bedrooms and does a tidy trade from Rutland’s booming tourism business. The restaurant, with its natural woods, earthy tones and menu of brilliantly executed classics remains the key to the business. A hallmark of Baker’s approach is conviviality. He is well known for his sharing plates of ribs of beef and joints of lamb presented at table on a board with a carving knife. “It’s amazing how many people go out to eat and sit there not talking. I want people to interact – with these dishes you have to cut it up, share, talk about the food – it just helps get people communicating. “It’s food from the heart,” concludes Baker. “It’s the staples like chicken liver parfait, rib of beef and crème brûlée that benchmark the restaurant. I’m not trying to be Heston Blumenthal, but I do say come and have a crème brûlée and it could be the best example you’ve ever eaten.” Q CONTACT Marquess of Exeter, 52 Main Street, Lyddington, Rutland LE15 9LT 01572 822477, www.marquessexeter.co.uk

BUTLER-HENDERSON CAFE Quorn

Take in your heritage railway whilst enjoying light refreshments, lunches & delicious cakes

THE CHEQUERS W O O L S T H O R P E BY B E LVO I R I N V I T E YO U TO J O I N U S F O R T H E L AU N C H O F O U R L AT E S T A DV E N T U R E

OPEN 7 DAYS FAMILIES WELCOME QUORN AND WOODHOUSE STATION WOODHOUSE RD, QUORN

LORD NELSON WINTHORPE

DISABLED ACCESS, AMPLE PARKING, COMFORTABLE, RELAXED ATMOSPHERE

ENJOY GREAT FOOD AT BOTH COUNTRY PUBS Serving lunch & dinner 7 days Sunday lunch 12-4pm - 2 courses from £12.95 Enjoy dining for less - Mon-Fri 3 courses £17.50 7th Heaven - 7 Dishes for £7 - 6-7pm 7 Days

GREAT CENTRAL RAILWAY

THE CHEQUERS, WOOLSTHORPE BY BELVOIR, LINCS NG32 1LU TELEPHONE 01476 870 701 CHEQUERSINN.NET LORD NELSON, GAINSBOROUGH ROAD, WINTHORPE, NEWARK, NOTTINGHAM NG24 2NN TELEPHONE 01636 703 578 LORDNELSONWINTHORPE.CO.UK

....COME & EXPLORE !

ENQUIRIES TEL: 01509 633876 WWW.GCRAILWAY.CO.UK

gardenbarn COTESBACH TEAS & COFFEE HOMEMADE SOUP & CAKES

A FEAST FOR YOUR SENSES AND A TREAT FOR YOU AND YOUR HOME

HOME

G ARDEN

ART

GIFT

espresso bar café & the lookout gallery OPEN

TUE - SAT 9.30 - 5.30. SUNDAY 11- 4. CLOSED MONDAY. OPEN BANK HOLIDAYS TOWN END FARM. RUGBY ROAD, COTESBACH. 2 MILES FROM LUTTERWORTH ON THE A426.

LE17 4HS / 01455 550900 www.gardenbarn.co.uk

FURNITURE MIRRORS CLOCKS POTS PLANTS WILDLIFE VINTAGE SCULPTURE SCARVES JEWELLERY ENAMELWARE BASKETS LANTERNS ARCHES OBELISKS HEARTS HOOKS FRAMES OBJET JUNK CARDS

Also in COTESBACH at The Stable Yard: Jason’s Organic Butchers and Naturally Good Food, specialists in organic, gluten free and whole foods.

p27_GF_JulyAug11.indd Sec1:27

22/6/11 09:29:19

JAMS & PRESERVES Rosemary Jameson Rosemary is never happier than when stirring a vat of steaming jam! She runs preserving classes at Jam on the Hill near Oakham and also owns jam kit retailer www.jamjarshop.com

Summer preservin’

Don’t limit yourself to just jam, says Rosemary Jameson, try making cordials, iced lollies and sinful sauces, too

reserving isn’t just all about jams and chutneys – you can make some lovely additions to your repertoire, especially during the summer months. Ice-cream sauces for... well, ice cream, obviously; cordials for long, cool drinks and ice lollies. All the lovely summer berries are out in force now and what better than to make a range of amazing cordials bursting with all of those flavours? You can make a single flavour such as blackcurrant, or combine a mixture of berries to make a delicious Very Berry Cordial. Why not try rhubarb or gooseberry? These flavours are rarely found commercially but both taste fantastic. If you follow the water-bath sterilisation process (see below) then cordials will keep well for around a year but you should refrigerate once opened. I do have a different sort of warning though – once you’ve made your own you might find it hard to return to shop-bought cordials!

and a cost effective, popular idea for a school fête or garden party. I haven’t tried doing this but your lollies could perhaps be made, taken from their moulds and wrapped in non-stick freezer paper for bulk storage.

Ice lollies

When your sauce is ready, fill sterilised bottles and put the caps on loosely. Stand on a folded tea towel or J-cloth in a waterbath (deep saucepan) filled with cold water and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 20 minutes, remove from the pan and twist the caps on firmly. Leave to cool – the sauces will keep for a year or so but must be refrigerated once opened.

There are some great ice lolly moulds around now so if you have small – or not-so-small – children, it is easy to make a batch with all your lovely cordials. Dilute to taste, fill up the moulds and freeze. They will be popular and you know they only contain fruit, sugar and water. A great treat for the kids

Fruity sauces At Jam on the Hill we also make a range of fruit ice-cream sauces, close to a coulis in style, and packed with flavour. They can be as individual as your imagination allows. To make, cook any combination of fruits and berries until soft. Process in the goblet of a food processor and sieve if you want to remove seeds. Measure the resulting pulp and stir in an equal amount of caster sugar. Cook over a medium heat until the sugar is dissolved and the fruit sauce thickens slightly. You are basically trying to create an unset jam, so don’t cook for too long.

Did you know...

Fruit smoothies and yogurt or fromage frais also can be frozen into delicious ice lollies. Get experimenting to find your favourite flavours – also see p21.

Waterbath method

Very Berry cordial This will make about 1.5 litres

* 2kg mixed summer berries of your choice * Granulated sugar

1 Cook the fruit gently until soft, adding 200ml water to prevent sticking. Squash the fruit with a wooden spoon to release all the juices – this will take 30-45 minutes depending on the ripeness of the fruit. Pour into a clean jelly bag and leave to drip into a large measuring jug overnight. Put all those summer fruits to good use

28 Great Food Magazine

2 Next day, wash all of your bottles and heat them in a medium oven (not too hot) for 20 minutes to sterilise them. 3 Measure the juice and add 700g of sugar for every litre of juice. Heat the mixture gently to dissolve the sugar, then remove from the heat and pour hot into the sterilised bottles. Seal loosely and sterilise in a waterbath (see above) to lengthen shelf life. This cordial will keep for a year unopened. Refrigerate after opening. 4 Once you have made your cordials, dilute to taste with either still or sparkling water, soda… or Champagne.

Homemade cordial is perfect for barbecues

Summer recipes

Sinful Butterscotch sauce

Another crowd pleaser is Jam on the Hill’s Butterscotch Sauce for ice cream. Actually, forget the ice cream.

You will need:

* 100g butter * 150g soft brown sugar * 100g granulated sugar * 250g golden syrup * 200ml double cream * Few drops vanilla essence

1 Place butter and sugars in a mediumsized saucepan together with the syrup. Heat slowly, until completely melted and the sugars are dissolved and liquid. 2 Continue to heat slowly for around a further five minutes, then turn off heat. 3 Gradually stir in the cream followed by the vanilla essence. Stir gently for a further 2-3 minutes or until the sauce is completely smooth. 4 Serve hot or cold. This will keep for several weeks in a jar in the fridge.

Sugar and cream... don’t let anyone tell you they’re bad for you

Where to buy? Jam on the Hill products, including the butterscotch sauce pictured, are available to buy at a variety of shops in the region, including Deli Flavour, Leicester, Oakham Co-Op, Stamford Garden Centre and Caffe Italia, Melton.

Learn to preserve! Upcoming classes at Jam July 30 and 31: Summer Favourites

Make raspberry jam, blackcurrant cordial and delicious courgette and mint chutney.

On The Hill…

August 14, 18 and 19: Perfect Pickle

Create perfect piccalilli, special spiced orange mustard and a variety of classic vinegars.

September 9: Autumn Harvest

Use the stone fruits of autumn – plums, greengages and damsons – to make jams.

September 10: Autumn Apples

Produce beautiful apple chutney ready for Christmas, plus simple but superb lemon curd.

All classes are priced £75 and run by Rosemary Jameson. Included is a simple lunch plus teas and coffees. All equipment and ingredients are supplied – just bring yourself. Classes take place at The Old Smithy, Burley on the Hill, near Oakham.

More details at www.jamjarshop.com Great Food Magazine 29

LOCAL PRODUCER

Filtered for 50 years How a farmer tapped into spring water. By Matt Wright

It was a tough call. The investment needed to drill down to reach the water, pump it up, test it, and jump through the various environmental hoops, was high. And there was no guarantee it wouldn’t be money down the drain. “I took advice from microbiologists and decided to go for broke. It took us 10 days to drill down through the rock and the first sample we took from 20 metres below ground proved promising. We then dug down to 80 metres and took another sample, which turned out to be perfect.”

Pumping it up

Markfield Knowl

Sandhills Lodge

The right geology

Brook

Today Brian extracts 300,000 litres of spring water every week from the land below his farm, filling 7,500 19-litre water coolers (the remaining water is used to clean the bottles). “I employ a great, hardworking team of 18 and we conduct daily checks on the water in our own laboratory. Weekly samples go to an independent laboratory.”

Benscliff

Roecliff

Swithland Spring Water exists due to a natural geological feature called an artesian aquifer – a layer of porous rock that stores water (the light brown section in the diagram below). By drilling down and tapping into this, Brian can reach spring water. And lots of it. “There’s a huge amount down there,” he says. The water gets there by seeking out cracks and fissures, being purified as it percolates through the strata. Eventually it reaches a bed of slate (used to build many Charnwood houses), and here it is stopped in its tracks, for the rock is impossible to penetrate. At this point Swithland’s bore hole and pump get in on the act, tapping into a well in the saturated strata to pump up spring water. After rainfall hits the ground, it takes up to 50 years to reach the well that Brian taps, all the time being filtered. Back above ground, the naturally purified water, which may well have fallen on Leicestershire soil during a heavy rain shower in around 1961, goes straight into bottles and large containers (for offices – Swithland’s main market) before being taken to a variety of locations, including Harrods in London, Hotel Maiyango in Leicester, and to high quality delis such as North’s in Rothley. Brian’s decision to drill paid off, enabling us all to enjoy some of the purest spring water possible.

The Swithland logo

“We use a picture of Old John [a tankard shaped building found at Bradgate Park’s highest point – see above right] on our labels because it symbolises the beauty of the Charnwood Forest area of Leicestershire,” says Brian. “Also, much of the water we extract begins its long journey underground on Bradgate Park.”

Swithland

Kinchley Hill 6

Mountsorrel

This is a cross-section of part of Charnwood, north Leicestershire, home to some of Europe’s oldest volcanic rocks. Rain and meltwater can’t easily get through the blue (Bradgate Park) and purple areas, so runs off to find somewhere more welcoming. The brown area on which Swithland sits is that welcoming place, known as an artesian aquifer. Here the land is porous so becomes a store of spring water.

30 Great Food Magazine

River Soar

Diving in

Natural resource

Brook

“M

y cellar used to flood all the time,” says Brian Beeby, the 60-year-old farmer who set up Leicestershire’s Swithland Spring Water at Hall Farm, Swithland in 1998. “It was a complete pain but indirectly it led to the formation of the business.” Brian came to Hall Farm in 1975 an arable, pig and sheep farmer with no idea he’d end up selling spring water. It was after 23 years of traditional farming that, in 1998, he decided to dive into the H2O market. “We’d already diversified by leasing out stables. But we knew there was a spring down there and had seen the success that Buxton were enjoying.” Brian speculated that he might, just might, be able to reach the spring water, extract it, bottle it and sell it.

8 miles

As well as supplying offices with water coolers, Swithland water is available in bottles suitable for the restaurant trade; 330ml glass bottles are coming soon.

Brian Beeby in front of Old John, Bradgate Park. Rain falling here today will reach 80m below ground, where it will be ready to be pumped back up by Swithland Spring Water, in around 2061.

Bottlers Hans Schulze (left) and Wayne Davis put each water container through a 12-stage washing process before filling them with Swithland Spring Water.

{ } “We’re hoping for a good, long hot spell this summer. It’s been a while since the last one. Demand doubles during a heatwave.”

Brian Beeby

Swithland’s Old Parish Pump was used until the 1900s to tap into the same water source that Brian Beeby makes use of today.

Great Food Magazine 31

FOOD PEOPLE

100 MILE MAN

Long Clawson stalwart Peter Tinsley has run 100 miles to Stilton and back to mark the cheese maker’s centenary

here’s something about Stilton cheese and insane physical challenges. Maybe it’s the guilt of eating too much. Back in 1750 or so, legend has it that Cooper Thornhill, landlord of the Bell Inn at Stilton, Cambridgeshire – the man who sold Blue Stilton to the masses – rode his horse 213 miles to Shoreditch in London and back in less than 24 hours in a kind of 18th century marketing stunt. Now, in June 2011, 53-year-old Long Clawson Dairy worker Peter Tinsley has run 100 miles from the Vale of Belvoir dairy to Stilton and back to mark the Leicestershire cheese producer’s centenary and to raise money for charity. “A few years ago I said I’d run 100 miles when the dairy reached 100 years old. My promise kind of stuck,’’ says Peter, who works in

CLAWSON RECIPE BOOK

To mark its centenary, Long Clawson Dairy has worked with Michelin-starred chef Tom Aitkens to publish a new book, Cooking Creatively with Cheese. It contains 45 beautifully photographed recipes. The hardback focuses on the successive decades that Long Clawson has been churning out the cheese, telling the dairy’s fascinating story and offering a selection of cheese-inspired recipes typical of each ten year chunk. You can even learn how to make a retro party buffet. Essential for lovers of local cheese, it’s available on Amazon, priced £7.95.

32 Great Food Magazine

Milk was hand poured at Long Clawson when Peter first joined in 1970

The 41 year stint!

the packing department at Clawson. Luckily, he’s done several ultra runs in the past including a 40-miler from Quenby Hall to Stilton – the historic route that the cheese used to travel to be sold at the Bell on the Great North Road. But 100 miles is still double the longest distance he’s run in the past.

Motivation As well as marking the cooperative dairy’s centenary, Peter is raising money for changing room facilities to be built at Long Clawson village hall. A changing room might not sound like the biggest motivator but to Peter it is important. “I’ve lived in Long Clawson village all my life and I’d

Almost as astonishing as the distance Peter ran is the number of years he’s worked at Long Clawson Dairy. “I’ve worked here for 41 years man and boy,” he says with a grin. “When I first started as a 13-year-old, the dairy had two 1000-gallon and one 1 500-gallon milk vats and you poured all the milk by hand. Now there are nine automatic vats on site, each holding 4000 gallons.” love to see the community get good facilities so everyone can enjoy playing sport here.”

The Clawson family

Peter had supporters running with him all the way

The community spirit shown by Peter appears to be the deciding factor behind the long-term success of Long Clawson Dairy. “The dairy has been successful for 100 years because of its committed workforce,” says Peter. “There’s a family spirit here that runs through the company – everyone’s on first-name terms, whether you’re a managing director or a cleaner. The local connections within the farming community ensure that people take pride in their work. People seem to stay at Clawson for a lifetime. A number of workmates have worked here for 25 years.” In completing his 100 mile challenge, Peter has certainly done his colleagues and the local community proud. Q Donate at: justgiving.com/ longclawsondairycentenary

Soaps made from 100% natural ingredients

Our olive oil soaps are carefully handmade from the finest Botanical oils and are gentle and moisturising. Rich in Olive oil they will make your skin feel soft and supple.

Tel. T el 001163 1163 1191102 91102

www.soapoftheearth.co.uk

A locally sourced butchery A fully stocked butchery with over 100 locally sourced and homemade items

NOW ON OFFER: THE BBQ PACK

- 4 sausages, 4 burgers, 4 lamb kebabs & 4 beef kebabs for £10.50! Also, please visit:

Swithland Spring Water are celebrating 10 successful years of bottling – particularly for the water cooler market – and now bottling Sparkling and Still water into elegant 750ml glass bottles. Tel: 01509 891189 www.swithlandspringwater.co.uk

Stamford Garden Centre, Casterton Road. Open Mon-Sat 9am to 5pm, Sun 10am to 5pm.

01780 765656

www.stamfordgardencentre.co.uk

p33_GF_JulyAug11.indd Sec1:33

22/6/11 09:32:01

Red Lion’s midsummer’s day planner Whether the sun is shining or rain is pouring, this schedule from the Red Lion will brighten your mood and table

ou only have to spend a few minutes in Stathern’s Red Lion in Leicestershire’s Vale of Belvoir before you feel a steadying sense of relaxation. It could be the beer, the rustic interior or the aromas coming from the Bib Gourmand-winning kitchen. The Red Lion team knows how to kick back with good food, as their latest itinerary reveals...

12 noon

Pre-dinner drink

A summer cocktail to get you in the mood for eating. Don’t feel guilty about enjoying a snifter – the sun is over the yardarm. STRAWBERRIES & CREAM

* 50ml strawberry vodka * Ice * Cream soda * Chopped strawberries To make strawberry vodka, place a punnet or so of washed, quartered strawberries in a clean Mason jar and add a bottle of vodka. After 24-48 hours, the colour will have drained from the fruit. At this point your vodka is ready. Now pour 50ml of strawberry vodka over ice into a long glass. Top up with cream soda, before adding fresh chopped strawberries and mint leaves. Decorate with a vanilla pod.

10am Brunch/breakfast

This is a satisfying way to start a leisurely day. Just add a dollop of your favourite brown sauce or some English mustard. A quick and easy classic, but you’ll need some baking rings.

Oven-baked egg and bacon on toast with cherry toms For each serving

* 2 small free range eggs * 3 rashers thin streaky smoked bacon * 1 knob butter * 1 slice toasted sourdough bread For this recipe you will need 8cm stainless steel baking rings and a non-stick baking tray. 1 Lightly grease the baking sheet and baking rings with some soft butter. 2 Line the rings with bacon. 3 Crack the eggs into the centre of the moulds and season with flaked sea salt and fresh milled black pepper. 4 Drizzle a little rapeseed oil on top and add a small sprig of thyme. 5 Bake, along with cherry tomatoes, in a pre–heated oven at Gas Mark 5 (190C) for approximately five minutes (until the egg is set) 6 Serve immediately on a slice of lightly buttered sourdough toast.

34 Great Food Magazine

Perfect way to start the day

BEER WITH YOUR LUNCH? Oldershaw Brewery of Grantham is yet another local maker of craft ales. Their beers include Flag Fen, Mowbray Mash and Old Boy (named after the traditional East Anglian term for anyone male, regardless of age). Caskade (4.2% ABV) is a pale golden beer with a hoppy aroma. It’s well balanced between sweet and bitter and as such goes well with roast chicken.

Home cooking

2pm Lunch

Where to buy? The Red Lion gets its chickens from family-run farm Fosse Meadows of Frolesworth near Lutterworth, Leics. You can buy online at fossemeadows.com

Tuck into a slow cooked, free range local chicken with tangy caponata. As a side serve a large bowl of fresh rocket and watercress, drizzled with good quality balsamic vinegar.

xxx xxx x x xx x xxxxxxxxxx

Slow-roast chicken with Jersey Royals and olive and lemon caponata Serves 4-6

* Whole Fosse Meadow Farm chicken (around 2.2kg) * 2 sprigs rosemary and 1 sprig thyme knob soft butter * Large 1/2 lemon * * 9 cloves garlic – crushed * 1 kg washed Jersey Royal potatoes (cut in half) * 10 crushed pink peppercorns * 2 tbsp Worcester sauce

3pm Pudding

Still got room? Then finish off with this before heading to the Red Lion. An indulgent summer pud

1 Pre-heat oven to Gas 6. Place chicken in a roasting tin and smear breasts and thighs with soft butter. 2 Put lemon, one sprig of rosemary, four garlic cloves and thyme in cavity and season with flaked sea salt and fresh milled black pepper. 3 Meanwhile, place Jersey Royals into a roasting tin, cover with remaining rosemary and garlic cloves, plus sea salt and crushed peppercorns. Add Worcester sauce and drizzle with a good quality rapeseed oil. 4 Roast both chicken and potatoes for 20 minutes. Remove, cover both roasting tins with foil and reduce temperature to Gas 1 (100C). Slow roast chicken and potatoes for two hours. Allow chicken to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Strawberry treacle tart For this wonderful dessert, which is great hot or cold, you will need a pre-lined eight-inch tart ring with sweet pastry rolled 2-3mm thick (use a 370g pack).

Serves 6-8

* 750g golden syrup * 250g black treacle * 250g breadcrumbs * 1 grated dessert apple

* 7 ripe strawberries * Zest of 2 lemons * Clotted cream or ice cream to serve

1 Crush the strawberries with your hands in a large mixing bowl to break them up. 2 Gently heat the golden syrup and treacle, then add to the strawberries and mix well. 3 Add the rest of the ingredients and mix. 4 Place the mixture into your lined tart ring and bake in an oven preheated to Gas 1 for 25-30 minutes. 5 Remove from the oven and allow to cool a little before serving with a good dollop of clotted cream or ice cream.

For the caponata...

* 1 tbsp clear honey * 1 tbsp smooth Dijon mustard * 2 tbsp rapeseed oil * 2 tbsp chopped parsley * 2 tbsp green pitted olives * 1 shallot – finely chopped * 1 tbsp miniature capers * 1 tbsp chopped gherkins * 1 preserved lemon – flesh

removed, zest finely chopped

1 Combine all ingredients in a large mixing bowl. 2 Store in a sealed kilner jar in the fridge. However, it is best served at room temperature.

Coming up at the Red Lion… JULY 12, COOKING DEMO WITH SEAN HOPE Michelin-starred chef Sean Hope is co-owner of the Red Lion. On July 12 he’ll be demonstrating a seasonal menu at the Red Lion, offering cooking tips and answering questions while he cooks. He’ll then serve lunch to all guests. Price: £40. More info at the web address below.

CONTACT The Red Lion Inn, Red Lion Street, Stathern, Leicestershire LE14 4HS, 01949 860868, www.theredlioninn.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 35

MOROCCAN FLAVOURS

Janet Smith cooks her lamb to perfection

Local lamb meets north Africa

Slice of medium rare heaven

MAIYANGO DREAM DISH

Tagine Spiced Lamb Rump with Spicy Cherry Tomato Couscous Hotel Maiyango’s Phil Sharpe shares a hard-won recipe inspired by travelling in Morocco. Treasure this one

“I

picked up this tagine spice mix from a street seller of herbs and spices,” says Phil Sharpe, while marinading lamb in the kitchen of Leicester’s Hotel Maiyango. “I was in the coastal town of Essaouira, Morocco at the time. What he gave me turned out to be one of the simplest but best Moroccan spice mixes.” We’re at Maiyango with Janet Smith, the latest Great Food reader to have their dream dish cooked by Phil. “I love local lamb, which I buy from a small producer in my home village of Tilton on the Hill, Leicestershire,” says Janet. “I also had a memorable holiday in Morocco ten years ago and adored the food, so my dream dish is to combine local with north African.”

36 Great Food Magazine

Phil is also passionate about Moroccan food and while travelling there gained inspiration for a number of dishes that appear on the Maiyango menu.

Fruit and nuts “It was in Morocco that I discovered adding walnuts and dried apricots to lamb dishes can work brilliantly,” says Phil. “The bitterness of the walnuts against the sweetness of the apricots works really well with the meat. This dish is a favourite with our regular diners.”

Real deal This well-used, simple tagine spice recipe is from Phil’s own treasured cookbook. It was given to him by a Moroccan street vendor.

READER’S PROFILE

Janet Smith teaches economic history part-time at Leicester University. A passionate cook, she has plenty of local tips. “Joseph Morris of Wigston is a very good butcher, and I get my fish and veg from John Heath, also of Wigston. One of my favourite places to eat out is at The Bell, East Langton.

Recipe Tagine Spiced Lamb Rump with Spicy Cherry Tomato Couscous

Slow-cooked spicy cherry toms star in this dish

Serves 4

* 2 tsp tagine spiced mix (see

handwritten recipe, opposite page) 4 * x 200g lamb rumps * 1 tbsp chopped ginger * 1 tsp chopped chilli * 1 tbsp chopped fresh coriander * 1 tbsp chopped fresh mint * 1 litre tomato juice * 150ml rapeseed oil * 200g couscous 1 Tomatoes Halve the cherry tomatoes and place on a tray. Generously season with the sea salt, dried herbs and brown sugar. With the oven at the lowest setting, place the tomatoes on the bottom shelf and cook for as long as possible – ideally overnight, but for a minimum of three to four hours. Once cooked you can store them in the fridge for a few days to use when you need them. 2 For the couscous In a large pan, gently sweat the carrot and onion, add a teaspoon of tagine spice and a little of the rapeseed oil and cook for 4-5 minutes. Add all but 50ml of tomato juice and slowly reduce by half. Add the rest of the oil, season, add the couscous and remove from the heat. Stir, cover with several layers of cling film (see below) and shake thoroughly until the cling film begins to rise. Place in a warm place for 20 minutes to finish cooking. 3 For the lamb rump Score the fat in a criss-cross pattern and add half of the mint and coriander, half of the chilli and ginger, all but a pinch of the remaining tagine spice

* 500g spinach (blanched) * 16 cherry tomatoes (on the vine) * Sea salt and cracked pepper * Pinch of favourite dried herb * Demerara sugar * 1 diced onion * 1 diced carrot * 50g dried apricots, chopped * 50g walnuts, chopped * 20g raisins mix and a little olive oil. Marinade for as long as possible, preferably overnight. To cook, sear the lamb in a hot pan, then lower the heat as it begins to colour. After about five minutes, transfer to an oven set at 180C, and cook for 8-10 minutes. Once cooked, allow to rest for 8-10 minutes. 4 For the sauce In a small pan, gently sweat off the remainder of the chilli, ginger, and a pinch of tagine spice mix and cook out. Add the remaining 50ml of tomato juice and some beef stock (or Bisto!) and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Add a quarter of the remaining chopped coriander and mint. 5 To build Toss the spinach in a warm pan with a little butter and seasoning. Remove cling film from the couscous and add 16 halves of the spicy cherry tomatoes, the remaining coriander and mint, and the raisins, apricots and walnuts. Mix thoroughly. To serve, flatten a little spinach into four oiled stainless steel rings; add the couscous, leaving a small gap at the top, and then press in the remaining cherry tomatoes. Carve

the lamb rump, adding the juices from the pan to the gravy. Divide the remaining spinach between the four plates, and place the carved lamb on top of the spinach, before adding the gravy.

MAIYANGO LOVES LOCAL Hotel Maiyango are passionate about cooking with local produce. Next issue Phil will create the ultimate Leicestershire dish

CONTACT Hotel Maiyango, 13-21 St Nicholas Place, Leicester, 0116 2518898, maiyango.com

Phil’s tips

“Cling film is useful for creating an airtight lid, so that food carries on cooking off the heat. But don’t use the cheap stuff and don’t try it on scorching hot pans.” ”Quickly de-seed a chilli to reduce heat by rubbing one between your palms. Wash your hands afterwards though!” “A good guide for judging how cooked your steak is: gently connect little finger to thumb and feel the muscle below your thumb. It will be taut – this is how a well-done steak will feel. Now connect little finger to ring finger – this is medium. Thumb to middle finger is medium rare and thumb to index finger, rare.” ”After searing your marinated lamb, turn the heat to between medium and high – but not too hot.”

2 3

Great Food Magazine 37

e would like to welcome you to our shop in the heart of Melton Mowbray. Our aim is to bring you the finest cheese and dairy produce, much of it sourced in Leicestershire and surrounding counties; as well as the best from the UK, and a growing variety of continental cheeses. Our cheeses from the local area include the complete Long Stilton is our speciality, ours Clawson range, Quenby Hall Stilton, is sourced directly from Long Lincolnshire Poacher, Godminster Clawson Dairy, based just five Organic Vintage Cheddar, Stafford miles outside Melton Mowbray. Cheese from Bertelin Cheese, and nd e Sparkenhoe For a taste of th e th Farm Red best cheese from Leicester. t no y ea, wh

Melton ar ? come and visit us

8 Windsor Street Melton Mowbray Leicestershire LE13 1BU Tel/Fax 01664 562257

Opening Hours Mon 9.00 – 3.00 3.0 00 Tues 8.30 – 5.00 5.0 00 Wed & Thurs 9.00 – 4.0 4.00 00 Fri & Sat 8.30 – 4.0 4.00 00

www.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk oard d co uk k melton cheeseboard.indd 1

p38_GF_JulyAug11.indd Sec1:38

22/6/11 09:36:17

Recipe

Tukata Bird’s Thai grilled leg of lamb with salad “This has been a favourite of mine ever since I moved to England from Bangkok,” says Tukata (also see p6). “I like to trim the fat from the lamb but leave a bit on for extra flavour. I always cook the meat quickly, leaving it medium-rare, and love to serve it with my daughter’s favourite salad dressing (see right). “When you eat this dish, I think it’s best to take a salad leaf in your hand, place a piece of lamb and other salad, rice or noodles inside it and drizzle on the dressing. Then eat it all together using your fingers – perfect!”

Serves 4

* 1kg boneless lamb leg For the marinade... * 1 garlic clove, crushed * 1 onion, finely chopped * 2 lemongrass stalks cut and crushed * 1 lemon, thinly sliced * Handful of mint, roughly chopped * Handful of coriander, roughly chopped * 6 tbsp rapeseed oil * Sea salt and pepper

For the salad... As you wish – “I use lots of raw vegetables – thin strips of carrot, spinach, onion, tomato… “ For the salad dressing... * 1 tbsp chopped fresh coriander * 1 tbsp chopped fresh mint * 1 tbsp of fresh finely chopped lemongrass * Juice 2 lemons * Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper * 1 tsp chopped chilli * 1 tsp of honey * 7 tbsp rapeseed oil

1 Cut lamb into single person portions (approximately 250g/person) and make salad and salad dressing. 2 Mix the lamb marinade in a dish, then put the lamb in for at least 20-30 minutes – overnight would be even better. 3 Heat griddle/grill until very hot – using a griddle gives a more authentic street-food taste. 4 Lay portions of lamb on the griddle and leave without moving for around two minutes – do not

touch or move it! Before turning, make sure the lamb is clearly marked or seared by the griddle – the mix of the slightly charred and clear meat is important for the final flavour. 5 Turn and cook the other side - again without moving the lamb! 6 To serve, dress each lamb portion with a segment of lemon, slice of chilli and a coriander leaf. Put salad on the side and drizzle with dressing, add noodle or rice if wanted.

“Eat it all together using your fingers!”

BLOW IT!

DUNCAN MURRAY’S WINE TIP

CONTACT Tukata Bird runs Tuk Tuk Foods (tuktukfoods.co.uk) and cooks at Mai Thai restaurant in Stamford (see p6).

La Sauvageonne ‘Puech de Glen’ 2005 Grapes: Syrah, Grenache Push the boat out with this Languedoc red. Described by Decanter as having “gorgeous fruit purity”, it will work well with the complex flavours of this dish. £15.99. duncan murraywines.co.uk

BUDGET

DUNCAN MURRAY’S WINE TIP Ciconia Vinho Regional Alentejano 2010 Grapes: Touriga Nacional, Syrah, Aragonez A laid-back, versatile red from southern Portugal with bold plum flavours and herby notes. It will it partner the lamb beautifully and drinks well without food too. £8.50.

Photography: www.abrackenbury.com

Great Food Magazine 39

PUB WALK

The walk

A black dog in front of The Blue Dog, Sewstern

PARK IN SPROXTON near the Crown Inn. With your back to the pub’s front door, turn right and then go right again up Buckminster Road, before taking your first left up Stow Hill.

TOWARDS THE TOP of the hill, turn right onto a grassy path, following the ‘Mowbray Way’ sign. Walk out across open fields, following the path.

AFTER AROUND 3/4 of a mile, join a stony farm track that skirts a wooded area. Follow the waymarker, going straight on, following the hedge.

Hostelry hat-trick: Sproxton, Sewstern and Buckminster Step back in time to follow the hoof marks of old fox hunts, while enjoying three pubs

Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright. AM44/10.

here are some great walks through the old fox hunting territory in and near the Vale of Belvoir (French for ‘beautiful view’), northeast Leicestershire. It’s hard to believe now, but in the 19th century this area was the playground of red-coated, horn-blowing aristocrats – land once pummelled by horses’ hooves and shaped to provide good sport. Who knows how many pork pies – a snack created to feed huntsmen on the hoof – have been scoffed around the fox coverts and plantations that surround these pretty villages? This walk, a relatively gentle seven-mile circuit, flirts with the Lincolnshire border and has the advantage of taking in three country pubs, two of which have a good reputation for food (see right). Starting out at the Crown Inn in the lovely village of Sproxton, you’ll walk across open farmland towards Buckminster and Sewstern. Here, choose between the food-focused Tollemache Arms in Buckminster or friendly local

40 Great Food Magazine

CARRY ON ALONG the fence, then head towards the five-bar gate. Go through it and walk uphill into Buckminster.

GO PAST THE CHURCH and mausoleum, through the green. At the main road, turning right takes you to the Tollemache Arms (see right). After enjoying the Tollemache, with your back to the pub turn right, turn right again and then bear right down School Lane, following the school sign. Follow School Lane all the way to Sewstern (there is a pavement).

The Blue Dog in Sewstern, before making your way back towards Sproxton. This walk is mainly flat (although there are some stiles) and because of the ample opportunities for refreshment en route, is perfect for a balmy summer’s day.

OVERVIEW OF AREA

Buckminster

WHERE THE TRACK bends right, go straight on, crossing the small wooden bridge. Then carry straight on towards Buckminster, crossing another small bridge and carrying on uphill to follow the fence and waymarkers, crossing a third bridge.

}

This neat, well-cared-for village is owned by the Tollemache family – still in residence – who also lend their name to the village pub. Near the church is the Tollemache family mausoleum, built in the Gothic Revival style in the 19th century.

AT THE END OF School Lane, turn left at the T-junction and soon you’ll come to the Blue Dog – an honest village pub where there are a few guest ales to sample.

7 8

AFTER VISITING the Blue Dog, go back up School Lane and turn left at the first public

Sproxton and Buckminster

PUB WALK

Detailed walk map

Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright. AM44/10.

The Crown, Sproxton

footpath sign you Buckminster see, striking out church diagonally across fields. Head for the large aerial in the distance (this is the Walthamon-the -Wolds transmitter – the main TV transmitter for all terrestrial channels in the East Midlands), aiming for the gap in the hedge.

busy road). Where the road bends left, go straight on down a smaller road. FOLLOW THIS smaller road, bearing right, and after about half a mile, go left at the footpath sign, over the stile. Cut diagonally over the field, going downhill to the next yellow waymarker.

AT THE WAYMARKER go over the stile and then over another before crossing a bridge and following the hedge uphill. Sproxton soon comes into view. Follow the arrow towards the village.

GO THROUGH the gap in the hedge and across another field towards another gap in the next hedge. Beyond this is a waymarker and a track on your right. Follow this track towards Buckminster.

AT THE GARAGES turn left. When you reach the road turn right and walk through the village. Take your next left, following the sign to Sproxton. As the road bends right after the houses, turn left, following the footpath sign into fields.

WALK TOWARDS the wooded area and beyond the trees carry straight on, following the hedge and yellow waymarker.

SOON YOU reach the main B676. Turn right and follow the B676 for 150 yards (that’s the only time you need to walk on this

This 140-year-old pub won a bronze medal in the most recent East Midlands Tourism Awards for ‘Best Pub Experience’. The recently refurbished restaurant has a contemporary feel with an impressive floor-to-ceiling wine display. Both drinkers and diners are welcome and if the sun’s shining you might want to enjoy the beer garden. Great Food reviewer Rachel Quine – and diners we’ve spoken to who have eaten here since – have found the food and service to be excellent. Head chef David Presland’s menus are inspired by local, seasonal ingredients. The Crown Inn, Coston Road, Sproxton, Leics, LE14 4QB, thecrownatsproxton.co.uk

NOTES: We’ve done this walk and believe that the instructions are clear and accurate. It’s steep in places and likely to be muddy. Take a map – OS Explorer 247 – and allow enough time.

GO OVER ANOTHER stile and follow the public footpath through Nook Farm before walking along The Nook back to your car (or back into The Crown Inn!).

Spotted on the outskirts of Buckminster

Tollemache, Buckminster Situated on Buckminster’s Main Street, the Tollemache Arms has since February 2010 been run by two young couples who have refurbished the interior, introducing a library to go alongside the main bar and dining area. “The food was fantastic but this doesn’t quite feel like a proper country pub – it’s been modernised and is more like a dining-focused restaurant,” was the view of one Great Food subscriber who ate here recently. The pub’s website says “the bar is open to everyone, their muddy feet and their dogs.” That, plus the lure of good food, makes the Tollemache worth a visit. Tollemache Arms, 48 Main St, Buckminster, Leics NG33 5SA, tollemache-arms.co.uk

The home straight

Great Food Magazine 41

LOCAL BEER Mark Tetlow Mark Tetlow is head of quality control for Everards Brewery and holds a Master Brewer diploma. He is the man who first dreamed up the Cyclops grading system

A matter of taste

How do you know what beer to drink with dinner? Ask Cyclops

itter, sweet or well-balanced? Pale or chestnut brown? Spicy hop aroma or refreshing crisp finish? The UK produces a mindboggling number of beers, each with its own flavour and characteristics. There are around 800 breweries in the UK, all creating thousands of ales. So how on earth are you supposed to know whether that pint of Jimmy’s Lesser Spotted Dog is right for you and will go well with your Sunday Roast?

Meet Cyclops At Everards in 2005 we invented a grading system called Cyclops to address this issue. So named because of the eye symbol used in its graphics (see right), Cyclops focuses on smell, flavour and colour and aims to describe what a beer is like before you buy. It offers a description for each brew so you know what you’re getting. The principals of Cyclops are deliberately simple: describe the beer in terms of what it looks like, smells like and tastes like using no more than three simple words for each area. Scores (out of five) are also allocated

for the beer’s bitterness and sweetness, one being least sweet or bitter. Not only does this help people to choose what beers to buy, it aids bar staff who can read the Cyclops notes on the back of the pump clip. After each beer has been Cyclops-ed at Everards, the results are uploaded to www.cyclopsbeer.co.uk for all to see. At the time of writing, 1242 beers have been through the Cyclops process and it has become the industry standard, a bit like the ‘1-10’ and ‘A-E’ system you see on wine bottles. But how do beers get Cyclops-ed?

Langton meets Cyclops South Leicestershire’s Langton Brewery recently came to Everards brewery to get their most popular ales graded by me and my colleague Mike Wootton. As always, we give each beer full lab analysis, principally to confirm alcohol content. Then the Cyclops session begins. First, we see how each ale looks in a glass and agree on a colour description, referring to our Cyclops word charts. Next, we give the beer a good sniff – again agreeing on

Mike Wootton, Mark Tetlow and Langton’s David Dyson stare lovingly at beer

the three-word description before moving on to taste, sweetness and bitterness. This is how we ‘Cyclops’ each and every beer.

Cyclops notes for Langton’s Caudle.

What to eat with Langton beers

Inclined Plane

Golden ale (4.2%) with fruity, citrus taste is good with pasta, fish and salad. 42 Great Food Magazine

Hop On

Full bodied chestnut brown best bitter (4.4%), ideal with roasts and pies.

Bowler

Darker ale with cocoa smell and malty finish. Goes well with cheese and spicy foods.

Cyclops notes for Langton beers are available at www.cyclopsbeer.co.uk

Local cheese

New cheeses on the block

The resurgence in British cheese making continues locally with two new creations from a small producer, says Tim Brown

ot to be confused with new block cheeses – I’ll leave that to other retailers – I’d like to introduce some new products from one of our local specialist makers. It’s a great source of pride within the industry that the last 20 years has seen a resurgence of interest in cheese making, resulting in a significant increase in the number and variety of British cheeses. Old recipes have been revived, such as Sparkenhoe Leicester, and new ones developed using old methods, milk from rare breeds and recipes from Europe, creating a rich array of modern and traditional British cheeses. Not since the 17th century has Britain had such a diversity of cheese and around 500 new cheeses have been created in the last two decades. Many are sold only within their local area, by the producers themselves at farmers’ markets and in local shops. At the 2010 British Cheese Awards, according to the organisers there were 903 entries from 179 cheesemakers, and when you consider that they all start with the same raw material – milk – it never ceases to amaze me how richly varied the results can be. A great example of a couple of new cheeses comes from Leicestershire Handmade Cheese, based near Market Bosworth, who Battlefield Blue comes as a small cylindrical cheese of about 200g

Jo Clarke of Leicestershire Handmade Cheese

have just been awarded the Good Housekeeping ‘Small Cheese Producer To Watch’ Award. Already well known for their Sparkenhoe Leicester, they have recently diversified, initially with Bosworth Field. We have stocked

“Not since the 17th century has Britain had such a variety of cheese” Bosworth Field

OOD FO •F

FOCU S

• FO O D

S CU

Battlefield Blue

this cheese for a couple of months and everyone who’s tried it has been very complimentary. It’s created using raw milk from owner David Clarke’s dairy cows and made as a 5kg cheese, which is gently pressed to give it a semihard, slightly crumbly texture. Bosworth Field is then ripened for around three months and takes on a grey, wrinkly appearance. Similar in style to a true Caerphilly, it has a delicious fresh taste, with mild lemony overtones, and I find it a very moreish and pleasant cheese. At this time of year it’s great with a simple salad or as part of a ploughman’s. An even more recent introduction to the Leicestershire Handmade Cheese stable is Battlefield Blue. When I first tasted this cheese, the dairy was still working on the recipe, but they have now refined it to produce a blue mould ripened cheese. Made with unpasteurised milk, the milk is heated and a mould added. It is then pierced to allow the veins to develop through the cheese. Battlefield Blue is made as small individual cheeses weighing around 200g each and sporting an attractive grey green rind. The cheese is very creamy and moist, with a tang you would expect of a blue. I find Battlefield to be a very well balanced product with the correct levels of saltiness, extremely palatable and ideal for the cheeseboard. As well as our shop in Melton Mowbray and our stall at Loughborough farmers’ market, you can buy these excellent cheeses from the Leicestershire Handmade Cheese stand at Ashby de la Zouch and Market Bosworth farmers’ markets... well worth seeking out! Q

ABOUT THE WRITER Cheese expert Tim Brown owns The Melton Cheeseboard, 8 Windsor St, Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire LE13 1BU, 01664 562257 www.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 43

CUS • F FO

BUSINESS TIPS THE INSIDER

Just ask…

Feedback is crucial and needn’t cost the Earth. By Helen Chantrey

’m sitting in my favourite local spot, the Cakehole in Barrowby, Vale of Belvoir. I find their Red Velvet Cake provides excellent writing inspiration. In this article I want to talk about consumer research. Whether you’re thinking of launching a food business or deciding your next menu, getting consumer insight and feedback is always important. Many companies make decisions on pure ‘gut feel’, which can work, but is more powerful if backed up with consumer input. Research doesn’t have to be expensive and can make all the difference.

No need to splash out

For entrepreneurs on a shoestring budget there are ways to gather key information about customers without hiring an outside research agency. Internet surveys and government data are great starting points. Government data can provide demographic information if you’re trying to work out the size of a business opportunity or your target user group (www.statistics.gov.uk). For surveys, Survey Monkey is a useful tool that allows you to design your own survey and

The Insider’s top three beer gardens What better way to spend the evening than in a local pub garden with a beer, Pimm’s or cider? Here are my top three local spots: THE MARTIN’S ARMS, Colston Bassett (see right). Relax, play croquet or dine in the beautifully landscaped gardens, overlooked, as the pub says, “by only the church spire and the occasional inquisitive sheep”. CHEQUERS INN, Woolsthorpe-by-Belvoir. Spacious with plenty of tables. The food is always great and it’s good for a big family gathering. FINCH’S ARMS, Hambleton. Smart old pub with a rear terrace offering great views over Rutland Water (pictured below).

analyse the results graphically (www.surveymonkey.com). Big retail brands are using this more and more, whether to understand how customers use their products or see what name they prefer for a new recipe. The basic service is free and the survey is set up as a simple link that can be posted on your Facebook page, website or sent by email. To increase responses without buying a database of names, I’d suggest entering everyone into a draw to win a meal or some delicious goodies. Try to keep the surveys to a maximum of five minutes in length.

Make regular contact with consumers

Before paying for consumer focus groups, there’s plenty to be learned from informal feedback. If you’ve got a website, invite customers to write about their good or bad experiences of your brand. Belvoir Cordials gets a lot of feedback this way and know that if someone’s taken the time to write, it’ll be honest. The pubs and restaurants that really get it right in my view are those that continually take time to ask guests what they like and what could be improved. It’s often the little touches made after listening to customers that make the difference – my local pub, for example, added a pork belly dish suggested by a regular; it was scrumptious, popular and the customer was thrilled.

Have ambassadors

Having a group of loyal target users for your business who actively help shape new initiatives can be invaluable. An easy way to do this is through social media, where you can set up a forum or live chat, inviting existing members to give their comments through your Facebook page. Going a step further, I’d suggest a

Belvoir Fruit Farms at the Real Food Show, Earls Court

44 Great Food Magazine

tasting panel of five to ten people who you know are target customers. They’d be delighted to be invited once a month to give thoughts on new products or event ideas in return for a free meal.

Season with salt

For my final tip – I’m about to contradict myself – take what you hear with a pinch of salt. What customers say shouldn’t necessarily be taken as gospel. Customers are brilliant for shaping menus, for example, but not necessarily best placed to tell you what the next big trends will be.

Case study

This month, I want to talk about a pub and restaurant that is really getting it right with great food and the right atmosphere…

MARTIN’S ARMS

WHERE? Pub and restaurant in Colston Bassett, south Notts. INTERIOR: English pub through and through. Cosy, with Jacobean fireplaces and oak tables. ATMOSPHERE: There’s a buzz as you walk in – lots of chatter and a welcoming feel. Everyone seems in a good mood, which makes you like the place instantly. FOOD: We’d heard it was good but our expectations were surpassed. I would describe the menu as English with a twist; the odd French or Japanese influence thrown in. One of the best meals we’ve had since moving to the region last September. FAVOURITES: The crab and edamame cocktail followed by monkfish chowder. CONTACT: themartinsarms.co.uk, 01949 81361

HELEN CHANTREY I love helping brands develop the right strategy for growth. Please have a look at my website to find out more: www.hownowmarketing.com

‘at the heart of Leicester’s cultural quarter’

Greetham Valley Beyond B eyonnd E Expectations xppectationss

FR “contemporary dining space, combined with traditional Indian hospitality” s Business Lunches s Stylish Bar and Late Lounge s Venue Hire Available s Open Plan Kitchen s Elegant Dining Room s Pre Theatre Menu just £14.95 s Reduced NCP Parking Rates

41 Halford Street, Leicester LE1 1TR - Tel: 0116 251 1889

www.chutneyivy.com

p45_GF_JulyAug11.indd Sec1:45

Wedding Fayre Sunday 18th September 2011 10am to 3pm

THE FIR BRIDES ATTEST 50 ND THE MORNING ING IN THE FIRST 50 AND BRIDES IN THE AFTERN OON WILL RECEIV E A BRIDAL GOODY BAG!

FREE ADMISSION @ EVERYONE WELCOME EXHIBITORS INCLUDE: Bridal gowns @ Bridesmaids’ dresses @ Mother of the bride fashion Men’s wear @ Cakes @ Photography @ Florist @ Linens @ Chair covers Venue dressers @ Travel agent @ Department store @ Jewellery @ Balloons Stationery @ Entertainment @ Favours @ Hair and beauty @ Gifts Caricatures @ Cars @ Disco @ Chef’s demo and sampling!

www.greethamvalley.co.uk t: (01780) 460444 e: info@greethamvalley.co.uk Wood Lane, Greetham, Oakham, Rutland LE15 7SN

22/6/11 09:57:48

FOODIE LIVING Lucy Cufflin Local chef Lucy is author of acclaimed cookbook Lucy’s Food. She has recently opened a food and kitchenware shop in Leicester’s Stoneygate

Life’s a picnic!

Pack some hearty fare and head outdoors, says Lucy Cufflin

hether it’s sitting on the beach with toes in warm sand, cycling around a sparkling stretch of water, or rambling across fields full of ripening wheat, it is absolutely one of life’s great pleasures to find yourself a nice little spot to spread out your picnic. There is nothing like a bit of fresh air – along with the knowledge that you’ll get to walk off the calories later – to sharpen the appetite. Our preference at Lucy’s Food is to forget the Tupperware (too bulky, too much to wash up) and feast on something that just needs unwrapping, takes two hands to eat and, probably, drops crumbs. After all, you’re outside so make the most of it! If we do take containers then they’re the ones we’ve recycled from the Chinese takeaway: these are light, stack into each other when empty and can be recycled again when you get home. Of course, we have one of the best picnic foods in the world available here in Leicestershire – the pork pie. Different producers suit different tastes but our current pie of choice is Mrs King’s Melton Mowbray pork pie

– they use chunks of shoulder meat for a textured, tasty filling. However, a particular picnic favourite of ours is the freshly baked pasty. Ready-rolled puff pastry is the perfect thickness – fill with pretty much anything from leftover lasagne or curry to locally caught trout or farm shop favourites. Make a batch the day before (or freeze uncooked ready for when you are) and bake as you have breakfast. Wrap well and they’ll still be a little warm when you stop for lunch (if they last that long!). And they stand up to being packed with the cans, bottles, suntan lotion and the waterproofs. But what about afters? Picnicking implies some sort of exercise – even if it’s that relatively short but remarkably difficult trudge across sand – and cake always hits the spot. Again, we recommend something that travels well, so forget cupcakes or delicate sponges and go for a good, moist fruit cake or slices of buttered tea bread. Make a few days in advance, which only makes them all the more delicious. We also believe that a checked table cloth or plaid travel rug is essential!

Pies are a must, but this could be overkill

PLEASING PICNIC SPOTS

Rutland Water is great for kids and there are some easy but beautiful walks of various lengths around Hallaton and Foxton Locks in south Leics. Also, stately homes and country houses make great picnic spots and often have free parking and marked walks around their grounds, so a lovely setting is guaranteed. Check out Leicestershire County Council, Forestry Commission and Woodland Trust websites for forest and woodland walks – these often have picnic areas and lavatories close to car parks.

Lucy’s beef and Stilton pasty * I packet ready rolled

puff pastry * 300g minced beef * I large onion, chopped * 2 medium baking potatoes, peeled, thinly sliced and roughly chopped * 50g Stilton, crumbled * 1 tablespoon vegetable oil * Salt & pepper * 1 egg, beaten

46 Great Food Magazine

1 Gently cook onion in oil until soft and translucent. Add mince and brown lightly. 2 Remove from heat, add potatoes and Stilton and season to taste. 3 Using a side plate as a guide, cut four rounds from the pastry. If you need to re-roll, layer it rather than just squish it together as this will keep the pastry layered and air-filled. 4 Place enough meat mixture in the centre of each pastry round so the edges of the pastry can meet. 5 Brush egg around inside edge of pastry and crimp edges together. 6 Place on non-stick baking sheet and brush liberally with egg. 7 Bake at 190C for 50-60 minutes until golden brown and crisp. Enjoy.

LUCY’S FOOD

Perfect ammunition for a smashing picnic

Lucy’s cookbook contains more than 350 tested recipes to suit all tastes. Published by Hardie Grant, you can buy it from Waterstones, Amazon or Lucy’s Food on 6 Francis Street in Leicester.

The King’s Arms

Top Street, Wing, Rutland LE15 8SE Tel. 01572 737634 email: info@thekingsarms-wing.co.uk

‘Where potions stir emotions’ Chocolate making workshops for 2 people £70

A 17th Century Country Inn set in the idyllic village of wing in rutland.

Bored of reading the same old menu’s?

Truffle making parties/hen parties £20 per person T: 01509 238113 E: info@chocolate-alchemy.co.uk W: www.chocolate-alchemy.co.uk 5 Churchgate Mews, Loughborough, LE11 1TZ

WINNERS OF E AST MIDLANDS T OURISM 2010 SILVER TASTE A WARDS AND 2 AA ROSETTES

Home to Jimmy’s Smokehouse. Smokers and Curers of Meat and Fish

Then come and try something truly unique. Home of Rutland’s Culinary Artisan Heart.

Come and Taste the Difference

To celebrate its centenary Long Clawson Dairy has enlisted Michelin chef Tom Aikens to bring a magic touch to a book which blends together the social history of a century with some mouth watering recipes. The Book takes the reader on a journey through the decades, starting from the 1910’s. It uncovers Long Clawson Dairy’s history piece by piece in each chapter whilst also offering a delicious selection of cheesy recipes of each decade.

Available to order now from www.amazon.co.uk and in stock at

The Melton Cheeseboard

8 Windsor Street, Melton Mowbray Tel: 01664 562257

www.clawson.co.uk www.facebook.com/clawsondairy www.twitter.com/clawsondairyltd Long Clawson Dairy Ltd., Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire LE14 4PJ Tel: 01664 822332

p47_GF_JulyAug11.indd Sec1:47

22/6/11 10:02:02

FOODIE PRODUCTS

The Foodie Gift Hunter’s Summer tips

FROM £3.50 PER PACK

Kulfi ice cream Cool down with frozen Indian dessert Kulfi. Denser and creamier than ice cream, it comes in a range of exotic flavours such as pistachio and mango. This pud’s roots are in the lavish lifestyles of the Mughal emperors of the 15th century. Still tasting great today! Contact: everest-ices.co.uk

Between a busy schedule of cooking, eating and drinking, Helen Tarver – the famous Foodie Gift Hunter – tweets about great gifts for food lovers at @presentsqueen and blogs at thefoodie gifthunter.co.uk

Beautiful bangers

PRICES FROM: £3.00

Got a BBQ fanatic to buy for? Well, offer them some brilliant local sausage and bacon from Dickinson & Morris, and why not get generous and buy them the 10-pack mix-and-match special. Be sure to include the Rutland Sausage, which includes Stilton and mustard seeds, and do consider the Melton Smokey! Contact: porkpie.co.uk

love this...

Thoughts turn to summer barbecues, ice cream, high teas, and how to keep the kids entertained Local cream tea It wouldn’t be summer without a cream tea in the garden on a sunny afternoon. No need to head off to the other end of the country for supplies though. Knock up some scones, then slather on beautiful Luxury Extra Thick Cream from Lubcloud, which has the same consistency as clotted cream. Then you’ll need some fabulous jam, keeping it local with Jam PRICES on the Hill’s raspberry or strawberry, even gooseberry and elderflower FROM: if you want something different. £2.50 Contact: jamonthehill.co.uk and lubclouddairy.co.uk

F IN D T H E BE ST PL AC E S T O E AT – P51

Knickerbocker Glories

Teenage cookery classes If the school holidays are stretching ahead of you and your offspring, then put off the cries of “I’m bored!” by booking them onto a cookery day with one of our local cookery schools. Bridge 67 of Smeeton Westerby near Market Harborough offer classes for teenagers, even a course especially for those going off to uni. Could be money well spent if they cook dinner every night over the holidays. Contact: bridge67cookeryschool.co.uk

48 Great Food Magazine

FROM £125 FOR THE DAY

We might be a longish drive from the coast, but you can still head out for traditional seaside ice cream treats here in PRICES the Midlands. At FROM: Brucciani in Leicester, you can tuck into great £4.50 traditional delights like Knickerbocker Glories and Chocolate Fudge Sundaes, all without the risk of getting sand between your toes. Contact: brucciani.co.uk

haycock.indd 2

20/6/11 11:46:14

Robert Reid @

The Jackson Stops Robert Reid, along with Dave and Laura, welcome you to the Jackson Stops Country Inn. Our experienced team welcome old and new friends to enjoy our fine food with a warm and friendly atmosphere. THE J

S OP

K S O N ST AC

N N T RY I N

Rookery Lane, Stretton, Rutland, LE15 7RA

01780 410 237

www.thejacksonstops.com

p50_GF_JulyAug11.indd Sec1:50

22/6/11 13:33:10

Where to

EAT & DRINK Your guide to some of the region’s tastiest places

P61 P54

Nottingham Grantham

PEACOCK INN Derby Redmile

JACKSON STOPS Stretton

Loughboro’ Ashby

Melton A6 A46

Oakham

A42

Leicester Nuneaton

M69 A6

Mkt Harboro’ Coventry

P’boro

A47

Corby

Rugby

A14

P65

Kettering

P71

Northampton

KILWORTH HOUSE

North Kilworth

CHRISTOPHER JAMES DELI Leicester

EATING OUT

The

ultimate curry pt 2 Our search for Leicester’s best Indian restaurant continues with reviews of some of the city’s less well known venues

eicester is one of Britain’s curry capitals. But which restaurant is best? To find out, last issue we focused on high-profile city centre venues, with Chutney Ivy winning. This time we’re reviewing venues situated in less obvious locations that have been recommended by curry fans. Next issue we’ll try to reach a conclusion.

ULTIMATE CURRY CHALLENGE!

SCORING CRITERIA:

ROUND 2 OFF THE BEATEN TRACK CURRY HOUSES

Food............................ + + + + + + + + + + Service ....................... + + + + + + + + + + Environment ............ + + + + + + + + + + Overall ...................... + + + + + + + + + +

PADDY’S MARTEN DHABA 98 Martin St, Leicester

PRICE PER HEAD: £15-£18 (for two courses and drinks) CUSTOMER PARKING: On street TIMES: Sun-Tue: 5.30pm-10.30pm; Wed-Thu: 5.30pm-11pm; Fri-Sat: 5.30pm-11.30pm

No-frills dining at curry pub, Paddy‘s Marten Dhaba

52 Great Food Magazine

efore Great Food visited Paddy’s we were told that despite the unprepossessing location, there would be smart cars parked up half way back to Catherine Street. The reason being that successful Indian entrepreneurs love to come here for the home-style food and informal environment. You can understand why: Paddy’s offers cracking food and superb value with no pretension. There’s a wide-ranging menu of dishes from all over India, and it’s not trading on exoticism or authenticity, just tasty grub. Poppadoms come with terrific, lively chutneys while a starter of jeera chicken was just that – onthe-bone pieces of chicken in a cumin-heavy spice mix. Mains are

big and hearty but showed some delicacy in spicing and cooking – lamb chop curry featured four chops in a really tangy sauce. There are no plates here – just big metal trays – and with a cheerful, efficient team supervised by Paddy it adds up to a very pleasant experience. On a Tuesday it was buzzing and booking is essential. That’s even before the restaurant features in a Jamie Oliver TV show this coming autumn. TB

greatfood SCORES Food .................+ + + + + + + + + + Service.............+ + + + + + + + + + Environment . + + + + + + + + + + Overall ............ + + + + + + + + + +

Reviews

FLAMINGO BAR & GRILL 179 Loughborough Rd, Leicester PRICE PER HEAD: £18-22 (for two courses plus drinks) CUSTOMER PARKING: On street TIMES: Monday closed. Tues-Sun: 5pm-12am

INDIGO

432 Melton Rd, Leicester

lthough it sounds like a strip joint, the Flamingo Bar, on the edge of Leicester’s Belgrave district, is in fact a curry pub. The original concept was ‘a pub atmosphere incorporating an Indian restaurant serving top quality Punjabi cuisine.’ With modern decor and a large bar, it differs from the traditional curry house. And with Bollywood beats blaring from numerous TV screens and a pool table attracting local youngsters, it is not the most relaxing place. We shared mixed snacks (served in plastic scampi baskets). These included crisp samosas, pea patties and patra (spiced spinach, rolled, steamed, sliced and deep-fried). Jhinga

Dania (king prawn karahi) and Punjabi chicken curry were rich and spicy, the flavours lifted with a sprinkling of fresh coriander. A Kenyan-style barbecue is available at the weekends (cheap, cheerful and popular) and stonebaked pizzas with Indian toppings also appear on the menu. If you‘re in Leicester after a hard day’s shopping at Highcross, you could always call in for a pint and a take-away. Fusion or confusion? You decide. RQ

greatfood SCORES Food .................+ + + + + + + + + + Service.............+ + + + + + + + + + Environment .... + + + + + + + +++ Overall ..............+ + + + + + + ++ +

A Belgrave Road favourite

FUN AMBIENCE, TASTY FOOD

PRICE PER HEAD: £12-16 (for two courses plus drinks) CUSTOMER PARKING: Yes TIMES: Mon-Fri: Noon-2.30pm and 6-11pm; Sat-Sun: Noon-10.30pm

he building formerly known as the Fosseway pub qualifies as a Leicester institution – it’s where Showaddywaddy first got together. Over the last decade it has become better known as a family-friendly vegetarian Asian restaurant. We found Hunan paneer an inviting sticky mix of cheese cubes with a sauce of honey, chilli and spring onion. Crispy chilli comprised indeterminate veg in a decent batter and a mouth-warming sweet and sour sauce. Hit of the night was ginni dosa, a deliciously crisp, folded dosa stuffed with lightly melted cheese and delicately spiced vegetables. On a midweek night the car park was packed while inside the vibe was good, with large inter-generational family groups getting stuck in to their favoured part of the menu. TB

greatfood SCORES Food ....................................+ + + + + + + + + + Service................................+ + + + + + + + + + Environment ..................... + + + + + + + + + + Overall ................................+ + + + + + + + + +

Showaddywaddy first played here!

BOBBY‘S

154 Belgrave Road, Leicester PRICE PER HEAD: £20-25 (for three dishes and drinks) CUSTOMER PARKING: On street TIMES: Mon: 11am-9pm; Tues-Fri: 11am-10pm; Sat-Sun: 10am-10pm

obby‘s is a 35-year-old Leicester institution and couldn‘t be ignored in any search for the city‘s best Indian restaurant. Serving purely vegetarian food, it is bustling and bright, dominated by a large counter displaying luminous Indian sweet treats. The downstairs dining area is more café than restaurant, with melamine-topped tables, while upstairs feels more like a restaurant but is still pleasingly relaxed and breezy. The service was professional throughout our visit, and the atmosphere was friendly, bright and buzzy. A highlight turned out to be moreish chilli paneer, while channa masala (chick peas in a spicy sauce) was irresistible. The peshwari naan was soft and sweet, ideal for mopping up plates. A minor downside was some slightly oily sauces but overall the food and environment at Bobby‘s is best described as addictive. MW

Great Food Magazine 53

LOCAL RESTAURANTS

Peacock Inn, Redmile CUISINE: Modern British/European PRICE PER HEAD: £25-£30 (for three courses and drinks) KIDS WELCOME: Yes DOGS: Yes, in the bar CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Car park to rear FOOD TIMES: Noon-2.30pm and 6-9pm seven days a week.

MAINS

DESSERT Treacle tart with clotted cream £5.95 NB. Two courses for £10 on Monday and Tuesday evenings

attended by polite, friendly and efficient waiting staff. The coeliac member of our party was helped by a menu on which gluten-free dishes had been asterisked. To start I ordered mushrooms with Stilton on toast, which turned out to be enormous. Rather than slivers on thin bread, I was faced with giant flatcap field mushrooms perched on two doorsteps, served in a large bowl. I didn’t flinch but smaller would have been better, although this starter was nicely cooked and tasty – hearty rural fare. For main I selected the corn-fed chicken breast, dauphinoise potatoes and braised red cabbage. Again, this was hearty and filling,

Boboli, Kibworth Harcourt CUISINE: Italian PRICE PER HEAD: £25-£35 (for three courses and drinks) KIDS WELCOME: Yes DOGS: No CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Plenty FOOD TIMES: Seven days a week from 10am

54 Great Food Magazine

which led me to the following conclusion: at the Peacock, don’t expect delicately crafted dishes but well-cooked, honest food, and plenty of it. This is perfectly suited to the Peacock’s atmosphere and setting. Sitting at my table, nursing a pint and gazing up at Redmile church spire, with Diesel the Jack Russell sat on a bar stool nearby, I wouldn’t have wanted any other style of cooking. Matt Wright THE PEACOCK INN 1 Main Street, Redmile, Leicestershire NG13 0GA, 01949 842554, www.thepeacockinnredmile.co.uk

Menu samples ANTIPASTI Beef carpaccio with slow roasted tomatoes and gorgonzola £6.25

PASTA Pennette, tomato and chilli £7.25

SECONDI Veal escalope pan-fried with Parma ham and sage £14.50

FRESH FISH

o, where would we meet this time for a girls-only Friday evening dinner? We’d both be driving so needed a restaurant with good parking, but also wanted to kick back, so it had to be somewhere relaxed, where we could chat the hind legs off a donkey and no one would rush us along. Italian restaurant Boboli in Kibworth Harcourt near Market Harborough proved the perfect choice. It’s bright, modern and airy, and on the night of our visit the well-drilled staff were charming and professional. It was a warm night, so on arrival we made good use of the spacious outdoor seating area, where we tucked into a pre-meal glass of rosé with some bread and olives while we perused the menu. To start, you can choose from either the antipasti section or have a starter sized portion from the pasta menu. I opted for my old favourite, Parma ham and melon, and my friend was excited at the option of starting

STARTER Freshly made soup with homemade bread £4.50 Crayfish salad £5.50 Pan-fried salmon with pea and mint risotto £12.95 Rib-eye steak, hand-cut chips, shallot rings and béarnaise sauce £17.95

he setting of the Peacock Inn is bucolic perfection, with the spire of Redmile village church just a few yards away, freerange eggs for sale next door atop an honesty box and, on the summer’s evening of our visit, a feeling of pastoral serenity in the air as the sun set over the Vale of Belvoir. Inside the large, sprawling pub – built in 1702 – is a comfortable front bar with a couple of real ales on tap. If you’re in this bar after 10pm or on Sunday afternoon, you may well see village dog Diesel the Jack Russell sitting on a bar stool. That’s the sort of pub this is – homely, cosy, friendly and slightly quirky. However, only the front bar is dog-friendly, so if you have a canine aversion you can take a seat in one of the pleasant dining areas. Having Rocco the terrier with us, we took a table in the bar and were immediately

Menu samples

Fillet of sea bream with chickpeas, prawns and tomatoes £14.50

DOLCI Italian cheese with mustard fruits and bread £6.50 with pasta and had a starter-sized lasagne della Nonna (“lasagne as head chef Lino Poli’s mother makes it”). Both our starters were plentiful, well presented and tasty. For main course I went for a traditional bolognaise, which might sound a slightly safe choice but in my experience this can be a dish that is either excellent or – more often than not – disappointing, often due to lazy cooking. Happily, this was one of the best, if not the best spaghetti bolognaise I have eaten. The flavour was intense, the beef succulent and the pasta perfectly cooked. It was enhanced by a simple side order of rocket and parmesan. My friend went for quattro stagioni pizza, which she thoroughly enjoyed but, despite trying her best, could not finish.

She was delighted to be offered the option of having the remainder of her pizza boxed up to take home. Sadly we didn’t have room to share a dessert. Overall we found Boboli’s atmosphere laid-back but with a contented buzz that gives rise to a sense of occasion. The restaurant was full but we were not on top of our fellow diners. A great choice for a Friday evening. Philippa Maffioli BOBOLI RESTAURANT 88 Main Street, Kibworth Harcourt, Leicestershire LE8 0NQ, 0116 2793303, www.bobolirestaurant.com

17 September – 2 October 2011

Ever wante to kee d p pig bu your own t don ’t the la have nd - w the an e have swer.. .

piggy ter your f a k o lo we

To coincide with British Food Fortnight, the 5th Leicester and Leicestershire Food Fortnight is encouraging residents and visitors to taste, tour, enjoy and explore the wealth of locally produced food and drink on offer within Leicester and Leicestershire.

For a monthly fee we will do all the hard work - feeding piglet, and generally making sure he/ she has a good life in our lovely woodland. You can visit your pig if you wish, feed him, and and see what ’s involved in looking after a rarebreed porker.

Across the city and county, a diverse range of business and organisations are hosting events including festivals, free tasting sessions, cookery courses and dining experiences. The fortnight culminates in the East Midlands Food and Drink Festival 2011 at the Melton Mowbray Cattle Market on 1st and 2nd October. For more information about events in your area please go to www.oakleaves.org.uk/foodfortnight or call Matthew Kempson on 0116 305 6179

At about 26 weeks old, we make the arrangements with a local, family-run, butcher to supply you with your succulent, additive-free, rare-breed pork and sausages. It ’s as easy as that! And you ’ll be helping to maintain a rare breed too. Saddleback and Mangalitza piglets also for sale.

01780 720660 WWW.CHATERVALLEY.COM

INDEPENDENCE AND INTEGRITY Blyth-Richmond Investment Managers is an independent family run business. To maintain integrity and flexibility, we are 100% fee based. This allows us to offer the full spectrum of investment opportunities and – importantly – means we do not sell products or services to gain commission. Our only interest is in providing the best possible investment strategy to fit your needs. Customer service is top of our agenda and we encourage regular meetings with clients.

0 3 Over

years’ experience

Call us on 0116 230 3663 or visit www.blyth-richmond.co.uk

Blyth-Richmond | Authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority

p55_GF_JulyAug11.indd Sec1:55

22/6/11 10:06:23

2011 Events Calendar

Northeld Farm Shop

A Taste of European Classics Friday 29th July £99 per person Includes a six course dinner, all selected wines and coffee.

O Rare and Traditional British Beef, Pork, Lamb, Poultry and Game from our award-winning Butchery O Melton Mowbray Pork Pies, Award Winning Apple Pies plus Artisan Breads, Brownies and Pastries from our Bakery O Fresh Local Vegetables, Cheeses and much more from our Shop O Outstanding meals, snacks, Sunday Lunches and afternoon teas at our NEW Restaurant, open Tuesday – Sunday 10am -5pm, Thursday – Saturday 7pm – late for evening meals. O Fabulous Amphora Wine Workshop on site WHISSENDINE LANE, COLD OVERTON, NR. OAKHAM, LEICESTERSHIRE LE15 7QF www.northfieldfarm.com 01664 474271 email: marc@northfieldfarm.com 2011 – Multiple Gold & Silver Awards for Pies and Sausages – Newark & Notts Show In 2010 we have received many accolades including Farmer’s Weekly Local Food Farmer National Finalist Top 10 Farm Shops – The Times Best British Apple Pie – British Pie Awards Gold Great Taste Award – Rutland Panther Bacon Best Pork Sausages - Melton Christmas Fat Stock Show

S TA P L E F O R D E V E N T S 2 0 1 1

OPEN 7 DAYS

A Taste of France Gourmet Evening Friday 26th August £99 per person Includes a six course dinner, all selected wines and coffee. A Taste of the East Midlands Evening Friday 30th September £99 per person Includes a six course dinner, all selected wines and coffee. A Taste of the Countryside Friday 25th November £99 per person Includes a six course dinner, all selected wines and coffee. To make a reservation or for further information, contact us on 01572 787000 or visit www.staplefordpark.com

PROBIOTIC

Bruntingthorpe South Leicestershire

Welcoming, l ecia Charming, Sp The Joiners is a delightful gastropub serving simple, perfectly cooked food.

LIVE NATURAL YOGURT Quality yogurt produced just 8 hours after milking, BUY FRESH, BUY LOCAL AWARDED THE INTERNATIONAL GOLD AWARD FOR THE BEST NEW DAIRY PRODUCT 2010 * FOR PROBIOTIC LIVE NATURAL YOGURT

Michelin Eating Out In Pubs Guide 2011 Inspectors favourites For further details please call 0116 247 8258 or see our website www.thejoinersarms.co.uk

p56_GF_JulyAug11.indd Sec1:56

Available at your local farmshop 01664 424245 (office) 01664 424772 (dairy)

22/6/11 11:06:07

Diet now. Here comes... GREAT FOOD CLUB HANDMADE IN THE HEART OF ENGLAND

Celebrating local food & drink

Get exclusive deals and offers at the very best local restaurants, farm shops, delis and garden centres MRS SMITH MEMBERSHIP NUMBER 1234

MEMBERSHIP NUMBER 1234

MRS SMITH

garden centres farm shops, delis and best local restaurants, and offers the very Allatsubscribers will receive Get exclusive deals

automatic free membership

Celebrating local food & drink

Get exclusive offers at the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best restaurants

Great Food Club is coming soon For more details, visit: HEART OF ENGLAND HANDMADE IN THE

www.greatfoodmag.co.uk Great Food Magazine 57

Ultimate local You’ll never be stuck for where to dine out again. This map contains some of the region’s best pubs and restaurants “Where shall we eat out this weekend?” is a question that can cause serious chin stroking and, after a hard day, the need for a sit down. This map is designed to cut that out by providing a useful list of some highly regarded local eateries. This is not a random selection – they have been chosen by listening to reader recommendations and, of course, by visiting as many as possible ourselves. To tell us about a great restaurant that should be included, email editorial@greatfoodmag.co.uk or reply to @greatfoodmag on Twitter.

Anoki Derby DE1 2QN www.anoki.co.uk 01332 292888

Assiette Stamford PE9 2BE www.assietterestaurant.co.uk 01780 489071

Baker’s Arms Thorpe Langton LE16 7TS www.thebakersarms.co.uk 01858 545201

Barnsdale Lodge Oakham LE15 8AH www.barnsdalelodge.co.uk 01572 724678

The Bay Tree Melbourne DE73 8HW www.baytreerestaurant.com 01332 863 358

The Belmont Hotel Leicester LE1 7GR www.belmonthotel.co.uk 0116 2544773

The Berkeley Arms Wymondham LE14 2AG www.theberkeleyarms.co.uk 01572 787587

Boboli Kibworth Harcourt LE8 0NQ www.bobolirestaurant.co.uk 0116 2793303

The Boot Room Leicester LE1 5JN thebootroomeaterie.co.uk 0116 2622555

The Crown Inn Sproxton LE14 4QB www.thecrownatsproxton.co.uk 01476 860035

Entropy Leicester LE3 0RB www.entropylife.com 0116 2259650

The Falcon 17 Fotheringhay PE8 5HZ www.thefalcon-inn.co.uk 01832 226254

Loughboro’

Ashby

Darleys 15 Darley Abbey DE22 1DZ darleys.com, 01332 364987

Staffs

A42

A46

Leics

Tamworth

Leicester

16 12 6 9 48 23

Firenze Kibworth LE8 0LN firenze.co.uk, 0116 2796260

Hambleton Hall Hambleton LE15 8TH www.hambletonhall.com 01572 756991

The Hammer & Pincers Wymeswold LE12 6ST www.hammerandpincers.co.uk 01509 880735

Harry’s Place Great Gonerby NG31 8JS 01476 561780

Hart’s Nottingham NG1 6GN www.hartsnottingham.co.uk 0115 9881900

Iberico Nottingham NG1 1HN www.ibericotapas.com 0115 941 0410

Chutney Ivy Leicester LE1 1TR www.chutneyivy.com 0116 2511889

Jackson Stops Stretton LE15 7RA www.thejacksonstops.com 01780 410237

58 Great Food Magazine

Derby

Chequers Inn Woolsthorpe by Belvoir NG32 1LU, www.chequersinn.net 01476 870701

Crossed Khukris Gurkha Nuneaton CV11 5BX www.omsrestaurant.com 024 76344488

Hotel Maiyango Leicester LE1 4LD www.maiyango.com 0116 2518898

22 24

Nottingham

Brownlow Arms Hough on the Hill NG32 2AZ thebrownlowarms.com 01400 250234

Derbys

Notts

Nuneaton

M69

Warkwicks

Key

Coventry 45

Rugby

1 Michelin Star

Leamington Spa

Featured in this or previous issue of Great Food magazine

Map not to scale and designed as a guide only. Always check opening hours before setting off.

restaurant map

Restaurants

Jim’s Yard Stamford PE9 1PL www.jimsyard.biz 01780 756080

21 31

The Joiner’s Arms Bruntingthorpe LE17 5QH www.thejoinersarms.co.uk 0116 2478258

The King’s Arms Wing LE15 8SE www.thekingsarms-wing.co.uk 01572 737634

Grantham

Lincs

Kilworth House Hotel North Kilworth LE17 6JE www.kilworthhouse.co.uk 01858 880058

Lake Isle Uppingham LE15 9PZ www.lakeisle.co.uk 01572 822951

Melton

o’

Langar Hall Langar Village NG13 9HG www.langarhall.com 01949 860559

7 50 25 36

Oakham

Laguna Nottingham NG1 6HE www.lagunatandoori.co.uk 0115 9411632

26 53 2

19 28 A47

P’boro

Mkt Harboro’

Corby

Northants 40

Northampton

The Red Lion East Haddon NN6 8BU www.redlioneasthaddon.co.uk 01604 770223

The Red Lion Stathern LE14 4HS www.theredlioninn.co.uk 01949 860868

Restaurant Bosquet Kenilworth CV8 1HP www.restaurantbosquet.co.uk 01926 852463

Restaurant Sat Bains Nottingham NG7 2SA www.restaurantsatbains.com 0115 9866566

Royal Oak Eydon NN11 3PG www.theroyaloakateydon.co.uk 01327 263167

San Carlo Leicester LE1 1DEL www.sancarlo.co.uk/leicester 0116 2519332

The Seafood Café Northampton NN1 1JF www.theseafoodcafe.co.uk 01604 627989

Stapleford Park Stapleford LE14 2EF www.staplefordpark.com 01572 787000

Tailors Warwick CV34 4SL www.tailorsrestaurant.co.uk 01926 410 590

Three Horseshoes Breedon on the Hill DE73 8AN 01332 695129

Tobie Norris Stamford PE9 2BE www.tobienorris.com, 01780 753800

Olive Branch Clipsham LE15 7SH www.theolivebranchpub.com 01780 410355

The Viceroy Derby DE1 2SN www.viceroy.uk.com 01332 209991

Oscars Leamington Spa CV32 4RL www.oscarsfrenchbistro.co.uk 01926 452807

The White Horse Balsall Common CV7 7DT www.thewhitehorseatbc.co.uk 01676 533207

Papa Cino’s Northampton NN1 2AB www.papacinos.co.uk 01604 601770

The Woodhouse Woodhouse Eaves LE12 8RG www.thewoodhouse.co.uk 01509 890318

Petit Gourmand Kenilworth CV8 1HL 01926 864567 www.petit-gourmand.co.uk

World Service Nottingham NG1 6AF www.worldservicerestaurant.com 0115 8475587

Kettering

Northfield Farm Cold Overton LE7 3DB www.northfieldfarm.com 01664 474271

Oundle Mill Oundle PE8 5PB www.oundlemill.co.uk 01832 272621

A14

Martin’s Arms Colston Bassett NG12 3FD www.themartinsarms.co.uk 01949 81361

8 A6

Mallory Court Leamington Spa CV33 9QB www.mallory.co.uk 01926 330214

33 18

Marquess of Exeter Lyddington LE15 9LT www.marquessexeter.co.uk 01572 822477

The Pheasant Keyston PE28 0RE www.thepheasant-keyston.co.uk 01832 710241

Great Food Magazine 59

Award Winning Pub A celebration of local produce A chance to purchase a variety of seasonal & locally sourced food & drink including cheeses, rare breed meats, cupcakes & fruit & vegetables grown on the Burghley Estate.

FREE ADMISSION & PARKING Saturday 28th - Sunday 29th August 10am - 4pm The Courtyards • Burghley House

A charming building with 7 unique rooms over 3 floors and a large enclosed patio We have 5 real ales including our own White Hart Ale and an expansive wine list that we import ourselves from around the world. We specialise in stone baked, handmade pizzas, plus a wide range of other dishes.

www.burghley.co.uk ! 01780 752451

12 St Pauls Street, Stamford, PE9 2BE Tel: 01780 753800 info@tobienorris.com www.tobienorris.com

The award-winning wine merchant on your doorstep An extensive, often exclusive, selection of fantasticallyflavoursome yet affordable wines and expert advice - come and see for yourself. • Free Saturday tastings from 12-3pm • Bespoke wine tastings available • Wines from small producers • Sale or return and glass hire for special events • Local and nationwide delivery 10 Adam & Eve Street, Market Harborough, Leicestershire, LE16 7LT Tel: 01858 464935 www.duncanmurraywines.co.uk

Wines, beers and spirits with personality

p60_GF_JulyAug11.indd Sec1:60

22/6/11 10:13:10

Local pub

The Jackson Stops, Stretton Idyllic Rutland pub with a few quirks that’s being given a new lease of life SPECIALITIES Rutland dishes, Nurdles! FOOD TIMES: Tues-Sat 12-2.30pm and 6.30-9pm; Sun 12-4pm (closed Monday)

et back from the road in the Rutland village of Stretton stands the Jackson Stops. Country pub through and through, this early 18th-century building has seen some real history over the years, not to mention a few ups and downs, standing empty for long periods. If your letters (see p4) and the naked eye are anything to go by, it is now on an upward trajectory under Robert Reid, who until recently ran the Orangery Restaurant at Stamford’s Burghley House. The interior of the Jackson Stops matches its idyllic exterior, with a traditional,

The oldest part of the pub was built in 1721.

‘‘We want to serve high-quality food and fine ales and create a warm, friendly atmosphere” unpretentious front bar serving local ale beams and exposed stone walls. All are great from the likes of The Grainstore Brewery and places to eat, unfussily but classily decorated. Oakham Ales. This bar area is where you The menus are varied, comprising a ‘Bits need to be if you ever get the urge to play and Bobs’ section with an eclectic mix of Nurdles (see right)! dishes including Rutland Rarebit, Beyond are four dining Jackson Stops Fruit Cake, areas, complete with Mussels, and Rutland Menu samples quarry tiles, wooden Ploughman’s. The lunch STARTERS menu is also Ham hock terrine with Grandad mouthwatering and will Ted’s Piccalilli £5.95 set you back £12 for two Smoked Rutland trout, truffle courses. Examples of the and horseradish mayo £5.95 evening menu (two courses MAINS for £17) are on the left. Grasmere belly of pork, twice roasted £12.95 Salmon fillet on spring veg risotto (see below) £12.95

DESSERT Strawberry pavlova, pepper and balsamic coulis £5.95

Laura and Dave Graveling

NURDLES!

The Jackson Stops is the official home of Nurdles, a gloriously English activity that involves trying to toss old coins into a hole in a seat while drinking beer. In June the pub hosted the Nurdling World Championships.

As well as improving the interior, Robert has brought in married couple Dave and Laura Graveling as live-in pub managers. Dave, also the chef, says: “Our aim is to produce high quality food and serve fine ales in a warm, friendly atmosphere.” So why is it called the Jackson Stops? “In the 1950s the pub was up for sale for years,” says Robert. “All that time an estate agent’s board branded ‘Jackson Stops’ stood outside. Before that it was The White Horse.” The quirks don’t stop there. In 1996, a fire broke out and firemen entered the roof space to find graffiti left by Second World War airmen who had been stationed a few miles away at the now derelict Woolfox airfield. The Jackson Stops is a beautiful old pub with tons of character, loving new custodians, great menus and, we are told, fine food. You can also play Nurdles. Q CONTACT

Great to look at, better to eat

A warm welcome from Robert Reid

The Jackson Stops, Rookery Lane, Stretton, Rutland, LE15 7RA 01780 410237, www.thejacksonstops.com

Great Food Magazine 61

Deli, cheese & You never know what delights you’ll find in these Aladdin’s caves of food. Stick your pin in the map and explore Stumbling across a unique little deli or wine shop and discovering a previously unknown cheese, coffee or wine variety is always fun. On this map we’ve tried to list some of the best foodie enclaves in the region for you to check out. We haven’t had time to visit them all – yet – so please give feedback on the selection. And as always, to tell us about a great deli, cheese shop, wine outlet or bakery that you feel should be included on the map, email editorial@greatfoodmag.co.uk or reply to @greatfoodmag on Twitter.

Amphora Wines Cold Overton LE15 7QF www.amphora-wines.co.uk

Nottingham

Derbys

Anderson’s Breaston DE72 3DW www.andersonsfinefood.co.uk

Barrowby Cakehole Barrowby NG32 1BZ www.barrowbycakehole.co.uk

Ben’s Wine Shop Oakham LE15 6QS www.benswineshop.co.uk

Brown & Green Derby Garden Centre DE21 5DB www.brown-and-green.co.uk

Derby

Deli Italia 8 Melton Mowbray LE13 0PN 01664 561777 Cana at Bank Chambers Harbury CV33 9HW www.canaimport.co.uk

Carluccio’s Leicester LE1 4SA www.carluccios.com

Carluccio’s 11 Nottingham NG1 7DL www.carluccios.com The Cheese Shop 12 Nottingham NG1 2HN cheeseshop-nottingham.co.uk Chocolate Alchemy 13 Loughborough LE111TZ www.chocolate-alchemy.co.uk

62 Great Food Magazine

12 58 11 40 55

56 Christopher James Deli Leicester LE2 1TU christopherjamesdeli.co.uk

Colston Bassett Store 15 Colston Bassett NG12 3FE www.colstonbassettstore.com Country Bumpkins Deli Leamington Spa CV32 5JR countrybumpkinsdeli.co.uk

Ashby

Staffs

The Deli Kibworth Beauchamp LE8 0HS 0116 2790077

Dickinson & Morris Melton Mowbray LE13 1NW www.porkpie.co.uk

Duncan Murray Wines 21 Market Harborough LE16 7LT duncanmurraywines.co.uk Evington’s Wines Leicester LE2 1HH www.evingtons-wines.co.uk

The Fine Food Store 23 Stamford PE9 2DF www.thefinefoodstore.com The Garage Deli 24 Uppingham LE15 9UD 01572 823247 The Garden Barn Cotesbach LE17 4HS www.gardenbarn.co.uk

A46

50 51 42 30 10 14 22 19

Leicester

Deli 53 Ashby de la Zouch LE65 1AG 01530 415706 Deli Flavour Leicester LE2 2DA www.deliflavour.net

Tamworth

Loughboro’

Leics

A42

Buntings 7 Thrapston NN14 4JH www.buntingsfinefoods.co.uk

27 44

Amp’s Fine Wine 2 Oundle PE8 4BQ www.ampsfinewines.co.uk

Notts

Nuneaton

M69

Warkwicks

Key

Coventry

53 M6

Rugby

Deli Wine shop Cheese shop

Baker Choccy maker Outlets where you can buy Great Food Magazine Map not to scale and designed as a guide only. Always check opening hours before setting off.

Leamington Spa 9

wine shop map

Delis and more

Garden Deli & Coffee Shop Costock LE12 6XB www.sixacres.co.uk

Grantham

31 15

Gauntleys Fine Wine Nottingham NG1 2ET www.gauntleys.com

Lincs

WH Gayton & Sons Grendon CV9 2BS www.whgayton.co.uk

Gourmet Delis Oundle PE8 4EF www.gourmetdelis.co.uk

Melton

Green Jam Deli Leicester LE2 0QS www.greenjamdeli.com

43 20

Hallam’s Grantham NG31 6LH 01476 591911

Oakham 32 5

Hambleton Bakery Exton LE15 8AN www.hambletonbakery.co.uk

Hambleton Bakery Oakham LE15 6AL www.hambletonbakery.co.uk

A47

P’boro

Hambleton Bakery Oundle PE8 4AU www.hambletonbakery.co.uk

Hambleton Bakery Stamford PE9 1PL www.hambletonbakery.co.uk

Mkt Harboro’

Corby

Kandy Cupcakes Woodhouse Eaves LE12 8SS www.kandycupcakes.co.uk

Kendall’s of Earlsdon Coventry CV5 6EJ www.kendallsofearlsdon.com

Kibworth Wines Kibworth Beauchamp LE8 0HQ www.kibworthwines.co.uk

A14

Kettering

Northants Northampton

Old Theatre Deli Southwell NG25 0HE www.theoldtheatredeli.co.uk

The Malt House Deli Bottesford NG13 0AH 01949 843699

The Pickled Village Bulwick NN17 3DY www.thepickledvillage.co.uk

Relish Deli Tamworth B79 7DF www.relishdeli.co.uk

Rutland & Derby Deli (within pub) Leicester LE1 5JN www.everards.co.uk

Salvador Deli Leicester LE2 1TU www.thesalvadordeli.co.uk

52 21

North’s Rothley LE7 7LD www.dominic-davidnorth.co.uk

17 38

No 8 Deli Nottingham NG2 5LN www.no8deli.co.uk

The Melton Cheeseboard Melton Mowbray LE13 1BU www.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk

Landins Kimbolton PE28 0HB www.landins.co.uk

Local Not Global Deli Nottingham NG9 1EN 0115 9257700

Limehaus Deli Orston NG13 9NG 01949 859524

Lucy’s Food Leicester LE2 2BD www.lucysfood.co.uk

Simply Simon’s Market Harborough LE16 7LT www.simplysimons.co.uk

Squisito Deli Monks Kirby www.squisito-deli.co.uk

Stamford Cheese Cellar Stamford PE9 2DG 01780 489269

The Tall Frog Deli Nottingham NG2 6ET www.thetallfrog.co.uk

Three Horseshoes Deli (within pub) Breedon-on-the-Hill DE73 8AN 01332 695129

The Waltham Deli Waltham on the Wolds LE14 4AH www.walthamdeli.co.uk

Weavers Wines Nottingham NG1 7AQ www.weaverswines.com

Great Food Magazine 63

A heritage brand with modern quality and taste. Delicious Melton Mowbray Pork Pies brought to you through the revival of a well known Nottinghamshire brand from the 1930s & 40s. For more information on the history and current stockists go to:

www.scrimshawsporkpies.com ‘Follow us’ on Twitter: @scrimshaws ‘Like us’ on Facebook: Scrimshaw’s Pork Pies

J.W.G. Dalby & Sons Cestersover Farm, Pailton, Rugby

Ice Cream available in 110ml, ½ Litre, 1 Litre, 2 Litre & 4 Litre Containers with a variety of 17 different flavours including Pistachio, Apple Crumble, Ginger & Honey!

Available for Shows & Fetes 01788 832188

WYMESWOLD WYME WY M E SW ME W OL L D LE12 LE 12 2 6ST 6S ST T

We now serve 28 day dry-aged Hereford beef, locally reared, at Clipston-on-the-wolds by the Rupert at Blackberry Farm, four different joints cut to order & cooked to perfection by our award winning chefs

A FEW SNIPPETS FROM OUR REVIEWS

Giles Coren from the Times said

“in my top ten restaurants” 8.5/10 Becky Jones from the Leicester Mercury said “culinary

perfection” +++++

Tim Burke of the metro said

“currently among the best places to eat the East Midlands” +++++ Hardens restaurant guide said

“Innovative way with local ingredients” 1 star out of a maximum 2 with a special note m on the ambience

Closed Monday. Open Tuesday – Saturday 12-2 & 6-10, Sunday 12-4

p64_GF_JulyAug11.indd Sec1:64

22/6/11 10:16:56

Deli profile

Christopher James Deli, Leicester A fine continental selection and passion for customer service make this a favourite

AT FOO RE G

SPECIALITIES Cheeses, continental breads, preserves, pasta OPENING TIMES: Monday to Saturday, 8.30am-5.30pm

Delicatessen

TO hristopher James in Leicester’s P R AT E D Clarendon Park area is many people’s idea of the perfect deli. It’s small, cramped even, but filled to the gunnels with all sorts of wonderful produce. Proprietor Chris Hawkins acknowledges that the Aladdin’s Cave aspect is part of the shop’s allure. “People ask me why I don’t get a bigger shop, but you just can’t buy an atmosphere like we’ve got here.” Chris bought the business in 1993 when it had been established for 11 years. Initially his wife ran it, but Chris took over when he realised he enjoyed shop life more than he did engineering. “The team and I love it when customers are happy.”

Staff Rob Campbell-Logan and Duchésney Moitt

Small but perfectly formed and you never know what you’ll find

‘‘People ask me why I don’t get a bigger shop but you can’t buy an atmosphere like we’ve got” Cheese is the key element of the mix – Stilton and Red Leicester are ever-popular but it’s the contintentals that are probably the best sellers among some 200 options. Selling cheese can be tricky, and Christopher James addresses the challenges by understanding both products and customers. “You could draw a graph of how a cheese matures and you want to sell it when it’s at its best,” explains Chris. “That said, some people like it a bit young, and others really ripe, so you’ve got to know your customers.” Alongside the cheeses are a wide range of cured meats – salamis from Hungary, Germany, Italy and Denmark, and, reflecting Clarendon Park’s Polish community, meats such as boczek, kabanos and weijska. Around the shop you also find a fine selection of pastas, chutneys and jams. Another feature is continental breads – Ukrainian rye bread is very popular. “People plan their lives around our deliveries,” smiles Chris. Q TB

POINT OF DIFFERENCE

Proprietor Chris Hawkins feels delis still offer something supermarkets can’t: “It’s all about high-quality produce, having good product knowledge and giving time to your customers,” he says.

CHRISTOPHER JAMES From Hereford Hop to Victor Renault Best Brie

60B, Queens Road, Leicester LE2 1TU, 0116 2700996 www.christopherjamesdeli.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 65

Farm shop & Some of the region’s best farm shops and butchers. The map will be updated every issue according to your feedback The aim of this map is to show you some of the best independent places to buy high quality food, much of which has been produced locally. We can’t include every farm shop and butcher’s in the region, so we’re featuring outlets that you have recommended, or ones we’ve visited and like. If you think we’ve missed off a shop that should be included, please let us know. We’d love to hear from you and together we can improve the map. Email editorial@greatfoodmag.co.uk or reply to @greatfoodmag on Twitter.

Derbys

Nottingham 13

7 16

Loughboro’

A42

A46

Leics

17 6 20

Tamworth

Berry’s Farm Shop Burton-le-Coggles NG33 4JP www.theeastonestate.co.uk

Staffs

Ashby

Attfields Farm Shop Whetstone LE8 6LD www.attfieldsfarmshop.co.uk

Notts

Derby

FARM SHOPS Ashley Farm Shop 1 Ashley LE16 8HG www.ashleyherbfarm.co.uk

28 20 MILES TO WELBECK FARM SHOP

Leicester

1 Bouverie Lodge Nether Broughton LE14 3EX www.bisons.org

Brockleby’s Farm Shop Asfordby Hill LE14 3QU www.brocklebys.co.uk

The Cattows Farm Shop Heather LE67 2RF www.thecattowsfarmshop.co.uk

Chantry Farm Shop Melbourne DE73 8DD www.chantryfarm.com

Croots Farm Shop Duffield DE56 4AQ www.croots.co.uk

Harker’s Farm Shop Clipston NG12 5PB www.harkersfarmshop.co.uk

Malt Kiln Farm Shop Stretton-Under-Fosse CV23 0PE, maltkilnfarmshop.co.uk

Manor Farm Shop Catthorpe LE17 6DB www.manorfarmcatthorpe.co.uk

Crossroads Farm Shop 9 Eastwell LE14 4EF http://tinyurl.com/5rodb4a Dovecote Farm Shop Newton NN14 1BW www.dovecotefarm.co.uk

Farndon Fields Farm Shop 11 Market Harboro’ LE16 9NP farndonfieldsfarmshop.co.uk Gonalston Farm Shop Gonalston NG14 7DR gonalstonfarmshop.co.uk

66 Great Food Magazine

16 Manor Organic Farm Shop Long Whatton LE12 5DF www.manororganicfarm.co.uk Meadow View Farm Sileby LE12 7RT www.meadowviewfarm.co.uk

Northfield Farm Shop, Gastro Tea Room and Restaurant Cold Overton LE15 7QF www.northfieldfarm.com

Oakdale Farm Shop Rearsby LE7 4YS 01664 424300

Nuneaton

M69

Warkwicks 20

Coventry

Mkt Harbo 14

Key

15 22

Rugby

Farm shops Butchers Outlets where you can buy Great Food Magazine

Map not to scale and designed as a guide only. Always check opening hours before setting off.

butchers map

Farm shops & butchers

Grantham

Picks Organic Farm Shop Barkby Thorpe LE7 3QF www.picksorganic.co.uk

Chellaston Butchers 11 Derby Road, Chellaston DE73 5SA, 01332 701131

Clarke’s of Queniborough Queniborough LE7 3DB www.clarkesqueniborough.co.uk

7 A1

9 4

Lincs

Saxon Fields Farm Shop Clifton-U-Dunsmore CV23 0BB, www.saxonfields.co.uk

Spring Lane Farm Shop Mapperley NG3 5RQ www.springlanefarmshop.co.uk

Smiths Farm Shop Chapel Brampton NN6 8AA www.smithsfarmshop.co.uk

15 13

Oakham

Stamford Farm Shop, Kitchen & Garden Centre Stamford PE9 4BB stamfordgardencentre.co.uk

18 25 12

Stonehurst Farm Shop Mountsorrel LE12 7AR www.stonehurstfarm.co.uk

P’boro

A47

Waterloo Cottage Farm Great Oxendon LE16 8NA www.waterloocottagefarm.co.uk

Welbeck Farm Shop Worksop S80 3LW thewelbeckfarmshop.co.uk

Wing Hall Farm Shop Wing LE15 8RY www.winghall.co.uk

t Harboro’

11 3 27

Corby 10

A14

Kettering

Northants 24

Wistow Farm Shop Wistow LE8 0QF www.wistow.com/rural.asp

Woodhouse Farm Shop Elmesthorpe LE9 7SE www.woodhousefarm.co.uk

BUTCHERS W Archer & Son 1 99 Queens Road, Leicester LE2 1TT, 0116 2707876 F Bailey & Son Station Rd, Upper Broughton LE14 3BQ, 01664 822216

Derek Jones Butchers 51 King St, Melton Mowbray LE13 1XB, 01664 565328

GW Dundas Breaston DE72 3DX www.gwdundas.co.uk

Jason’s Organic Butcher Cotesbach LE17 4HX jasonsorganicbutchers.co.uk

Grasmere Farm Butchers Market Deeping PE6 8DL www.grasmere-farm.co.uk

Grasmere Farm Butchers Stamford PE9 2LJ www.grasmere-farm.co.uk

Hambletons Fine Foods Oakham LE15 8AQ www.hambletonfarms.co.uk

Clive Lancaster Butchers Bingham NG13 8BD www.clivelancasterbutchers.co.uk

Leeson Family Butchers 31 High St, Oakham LE15 6AH 01572 770244

Joseph Morris Butchers South Kilworth LE17 6EG www.joseph-morris.co.uk

Joseph Morris Butchers Wigston LE18 3SE www.joseph-morris.co.uk

Nelsons Stamford PE9 1PB www.nelsonsbutchers.co.uk

Nelsons Uppingham LE15 6AL www.nelsonsbutchers.co.uk

Frank Parker Butchers Nuneaton CV11 5DT www.frankparkerbutchers.co.uk

Bates Butchers 4 Church Sq, Market Harboro’ LE16 7NB, 01858 462400

Mark Patrick Birstall LE4 4NB www.markpatrickbutchers.co.uk

JT Beedham & Sons Sherwood, Nottingham www.jtbeedham.co.uk

Trendall’s Oundle PE8 4BQ www.trendalls.com

Northampton

David Cox Butchers Stathern LE14 4HW www.butchercox.co.uk

Melton 5

Roots at Thorpe Farm Barkby Thorpe LE7 3QE www.rootsthorpefarm.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 67

FARM SHOP

Market Harborough

Farndon Fields

AT FOO RE G

Farm shop TO

P R AT E D

A closer look at one of the region’s finest farm shops. By Emily Coates

Much of the veg on sale is grown on the 250-acre farm

icture your perfect food-shopping experience. In your mind’s eye there are probably spacious aisles loaded with fresh fruit and veg grown in fields just yards away. There might also be a butchery section offering locally reared meat next to a fridge packed with local cheeses. Round the corner, the bakery area contains breads made from locally milled flours; the freezers are full of award-winning ready meals and the booze shelves are stacked with wines and beers from local vineyards and breweries. There are plenty of staff on hand to help and the shop is open 8am to 6pm Monday to Saturday and 10am-4pm Sunday. I could go on but you’ve probably got the picture. Farndon Fields Farm Shop near Market Harborough on the Leicestershire/Northants border is all of the above and more, combining genuine farm shop (the fruit and veg is grown on the farm) with cafe and garden centre. SELLING WHAT THEY GROW

“On the farm we grow over 40 types of vegetable and six varieties of potato,” says owner Milly Stokes. Homegrown produce on sale includes raspberries, leeks and asparagus. “We’ve had a great crop of strawberries this year, too.”

68 Great Food Magazine

28 years of experience

It all started back in 1983 when owners Kevin and Milly Stokes opened a small shop in the garage of their 250-acre farm. By 1998 they had added a purpose-built farm shop extension, added a dairy section, and made room for a locally stocked bakery. Five years

Kevin and Milly Stokes have created one of the UK’s best farm shops. “Farming is my passion and we’re proud to sell what we grow,” says Kevin.

‘‘The farm shop opened 28 years later a butchery, cafe and plant centre had been introduced. Next on the agenda is a Mediterraneaninspired deli, which will be opening soon. “We’ve recently bought nine pigs and are feeding them our waste vegetables so we also hope to begin selling our own pork,” says Milly.

Keeping it local

So what’s the secret of Farndon Field’s success? Well, the fact that it’s a genuine farm shop helps, but it is retail know-how in the form of clever shop layout and good product selection that really makes it special. “We aim to give people a really personal shopping experience,” says Milly. In an age of plastic shopping malls, they certainly succeed in that. CONTACT Farndon Fields, Farndon Road, Mkt Harboro, Leics LE16 9NP farndonfieldsfarmshop.co.uk

Farm shops

Farndon Fields has three tills, wide aisles suitable for trolleys and uses plenty of rustic-looking wood within the shopâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s layout

Cafe serves a full range of coffees and offers an extensive breakfast and lunch menu

ago and has grown ever since. We now grow over 40 types of vegetableâ&#x20AC;?

Great Food Magazine 69

Our philosophy “Buy quality ingredients, treat them well and let your customer enjoy the experience” has enabled The Boot Room to become one of the best restaurants in Leicester city centre.

greatfood l food & drink Celebrating loca

Summer fun Ice cream, picnics

p70_GF_JulyAug11.indd Sec1:70

and pies !

FROM RUTLAND TO SIR ELTON

Chef Brian Baker’s astonishing career

FIND HIDDEN GEMS

GET OFF THE TRACK BEATENundisco vered

20-page ‘Where To Eat’ section

Leicester’s d curry houses reviewe

REALLY USEFUL RESTAURANT MAP best local eateries 50 of the

NEW CHEESES CK ON THE BLO Battlefield

walk Three-pub L RAMBLE

Introducing Field Blue and Bosworth

SUPERB RURA

Also inside... NEW

THE BOOT ROOM EATERIE 27-29 Millstone Lane, Leicester. LE1 5JN 0116 262 2555

THE HANDMADE IN ND HEART OF ENGLA

£3.20

ISSUE #7

PACK ED WITH RECIPES From picnic pasties to Moroccan lamb

TION CHEN SEC d HOME AND KIT go hand in hand

Because great food P80

your Make bunting for summer garden party

and good living

P82

Nose around Rachel Green’s new kitchen

P76

tips Get inspiration & own for growing your

PLUS

Antiques for dining areas This issue’s dream home The Foodie Gift Hunter’s guide Home baking with Julie Duff

ISSUE #7

Whether you are just popping into the restaurant for a coffee, a light snack or taking advantage of our great value fixed price menu, you can be assured of a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere by Ian and the restaurant team.

01664 822114 - www.bisons.org 01664 822114 - www.bisons.org

TO ADVERTISE ADVERT TISE HERE CALL JULIE ON 01780 754900 ext 213

£3.20

AN EXCITING LEICESTER RESTAURANT The Boot Room is one of only a few independently owned restaurants in Leicester, situated at 27-29 Millstone Lane – a stones throw away from Highcross Leicester and the Town Hall Square.

Bouverie Bison Farm is a working farm farm situated approx. BouverieLodge Lodge Bison Farm is a working situated 5 milesofNorth West of MeltonLeicestershire Mowbray, 5 miles approx. North West Melton Mowbray, on the Leicestershire on the outskirts of the Broughton. village of Nether outskirts of the village of Nether Why not visit our Broughton. Why not visit Farm Shop where Farm Shop where youour can purchase delicious Bison and you can purchase delicious Bison and Venison Venison meat. From Bison steaks and burgers to Vension joints meat. From Bison steaks and burgers to Vension joints our meatisisbutchered butchered vacuum packed on-site. our meat andand vacuum packed on-site.

22/6/11 10:51:16

Profile

Kilworth House Hotel, North Kilworth History, good food, theatre and luxury make Kilworth a treat. By Rachel Quine

n the rare occasions I’m lucky enough to be planning a weekend away, it’s always the same dilemma – relaxing country house hotel or stimulating theatre break? At fourstar Kilworth House Hotel near Lutterworth, guests get the best of both worlds. The hotel has a clever blend of ingredients – Victorian grandeur and contemporary luxury set in 38 acres of landscaped Leicestershire parkland, complete with first class restaurants and its own theatre. The Grade II-listed Italianate country house was built towards the end of the 19th century for wool magnate John Entwisle, High Sheriff of Leicestershire. The house later passed to the Snowdon family until it was acquired by the present owners in 1999. Then began a painstaking project of restoration and stylish refurbishment, in partnership with English Heritage. A highlight is the restored Victorian orangery, featuring stained glass windows and an original black and white mosaic floor. Now a popular venue for leisure, business and weddings, Kilworth House boasts impressive facilities – beauty treatment rooms, mini-gym, a fishing lake and a separate theatre in the grounds, attracting top shows and performers. The Daily Telegraph describes this as ‘a total delight... perhaps the best kept secret in British Theatre’. Forthcoming shows include the lively musical The Little Shop of Horrors and The restored Orangery

A room made for falling asleep in after dinner

patriotic Last Night of the Proms concerts. Pre-theatre dinner can be enjoyed in the hotel, or you can bring a picnic. Fine dining is offered in the Wordsworth Restaurant, where chef Carl Dovey “revels in big flavours and imaginative combinations”. Choices include a neat twist on the classic surf and turf – Confit Oxtail with Seared Scallop. Meat and game are sourced locally from independent butchers and feature in main dishes such as Poached Venison Loin with Truffle pômme purée. Puddings include Cappuccino Brûlée with vanilla foam (a la carte menu, £40 for three courses).

‘‘The restored Victorian orangery offers a modern brasserie menu, with sharing dishes like Meze Platter”

This way to more luxury

The Orangery offers a modern brasserie menu, with sharing dishes such as a Meze Platter (£11.95). Or how about Asian Noodle Salad (£6.50) followed by Pork Schnitzel with parsley potatoes, Stilton sauce and caramelised apple (£14.95) and, for dessert, Chocolate & Olive Oil Truffle with caramelised bananas & ice-cream (£6.50)? Q

TEA AT KILWORTH

Afternoon tea is making a comeback. To enjoy it at its best, Kilworth House suggests tea should be taken in authentic Victorian surroundings such as theirs. They offer a range of sandwiches, scones, cakes, and pastries, plus ten varieties of tea, served every day, 4pm-6pm (£15.95). You may even get to sample sweet creations from one of the hotel’s three award-winners who recently scooped prizes for their creative patisserie at the prestigious Salon Culinaire awards.

CONTACT Set in 38 acres of landscaped grounds

Kilworth House Hotel Lutterworth Road, North Kilworth, Leicestershire LE17 6JE 01858 880058, www.kilworthhouse.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 71

The Pantry From great places to eat to fantastic farm shops to cracking caterers, you’ll find an excellent selection of local foodie services here. To advertise in this section, please contact Andrea Marshall on 01780 754900 Ext 218 or by email a.marshall@bournepublishinggroup.co.uk

ANTIQUES

CAKES

OLD BAKERY ANTIQUES Kitchen curios from old scales to pottery and much more. An Aladdin’s Cave selling fascinating old items since 1990 on Main Street, Wymondham LE14 2AG. Tel. 01572 787472

BUTCHERS

HOG ROAST

JASON’S ORGANIC BUTCHERS

Venison, wild boar, spit roasts, BBQs and so much more. Full catering services including marquee for no extra charge.

Cotesbach Hall, Leicestershire

Offeringagoodoldfashioned,friendly service.Organicmeatatitsbest;simple, natural, locally reared and butchered onsite.Workingwithnaturetoprovide you with great tasting meat

We use the finest meats available.

Tel. 07754 697577 www.jasonsorganicbutchers.co.uk

www.thehogroastservice.co.uk

Based in Rutland.

Tel. 01572 737581

NEXT ISSUE

The rise of real bread

Have the next six issues delivered – subscribe for £15 – see p23

* Why traditionally made bread is fighting back * Meet the local millers and bakers making it happen * Must-have delicious bread recipes to try

PLUS

FOODIE MAPS LOCAL RESTAURANT REVIEWS LEICESTER’S BEST CURRY HOUSE REVEALED

Issue 8 goes on sale Thursday, September 8 Keep up to date with news at www.greatfoodmag.co.uk and chat with us daily on Twitter – @greatfoodmag

HOME & KITCHEN Where food and drink meets lifestyle

BAKE IT!

Boozy cake reci pe to make your kitchen smell sublime, p79

Fu n and food in the garden Cultivate,

cut and cook, p78

IN YOUR NEW HOME & KITCHEN SECTION... P80

P82

P76

P74

Make party bunting

Show us your kitchen

Veg patch inspiration

Dream home for sale

The lounge, with high ceiling and parquet flooring

Wood burning stove for cosy winter evenings

DREAM HOME FOR SALE A local property with a kitchen and garden that will get food lovers salivating

ituated near the village church and pub in pretty Rothley, Leicestershire, The White House is a Georgian property in a classically rural setting. It’s also a property designed for food lovers. “We use the dining area in the kitchen the most because the light is so great – and the cook is not isolated!” says owner Tony Wilkinson. “But the dining room with its beams and fire is used at Christmas.” The garden has a food growing area which provides strawberries, raspberries, broad and French beans, peas and herbs. “The patio area next to the kitchen is excellent for eating out,” says Tony, “whether it’s a barbecue or just a carry out lunch. Last year our daughter got married in the village church and we used the garden for the reception with a beautiful marquee provided by Funky Tents and food catered by Stones, both local companies. “The house was briefly used as a convent about a hundred years ago – we know this because we were once visited by nuns who were on a White House from rear with sort of pilgrimage.” view of Rothley church

74 Great Food Magazine

Traditional wood-beamed dining room is great for family occasions

house fact file THE PROPERTY The White House, Rothley, Leics. Detached, three storey Georgian house.

TENURE Freehold

Modern fittings and range cooker would please any chef

BEDROOMS Six BATHROOMS Two INTERIOR Lots of period features including heavily beamed ceilings, sash windows and high ceilings. House has been recently renovated and given a new 26’9” x 16’9” living/dining kitchen in French oak with granite work surfaces and under-floor heating.

GARDENS & GROUNDS Extensive and completely walled landscaped rear gardens. GUIDE PRICE £875,000 ON SALE WITH Benton’s, 47 Nottingham St, Melton Mowbray, LE13 1NN 01664 563892, www.bentons.co.uk

BESPOKE KITCHEN

Moir Wade Design of Syston recently remodelled the kitchen

Apple trees provide good fruit for cooking

Great Food Magazine 75

How to create your...

VEG PATCH FROM Last issue he dug his patch. Now Charlie Boyd is starting to reap the rewards

he driest April and May left over from a previous patch, but since records began has realised I had a wealth of materials been a challenge for the in my garden. With two large vegetable gardener. buddleia bushes that needed cutting While the warm weather back, I had dozens of strong yet has been great, the lack of rain flexible canes for free – and I think meant extra attention was needed they look way better too. to stop everything from crisping up The other advantage to having to a frazzle. lots of twiggy type canes poking up My oregano just didn’t make it. No at all angles is that it keeps birds off matter how much water I supplied, it your produce. You could use a net, seemed to be resigned to drying but there’s always the danger of itself out like its cousin on the spice birds getting caught in it (and it rack. You don’t get any of that doesn’t look too pretty), so I prefer nonsense from good old rosemary, the pointed stick method (with help hardy old girl that she is. Along with from a bird scarer – see right). If the equally resilient mint, rosemary you’re worried about poking is looking like establishing itself as a yourself in the eye you could put perennial herb in my garden – good empty plastic bottles on the ends. news for my roast lamb. The most exciting aspects of my Still, my peas, broad beans and garden though, as far as I’m runner beans are looking healthy concerned, were sown years before I and my 12 courgette plants (yes, 12 – moved in: two apple trees, two pear what can I say? I trees, a plum tree, like courgettes) a greengage (I Runner beans are starting to think!) tree, a Runners are easy to grow but like lots of water. show signs of walnut tree and a Harvest them when promise. rhubarb patch! they’re small – if you In pots I have At the time of leave them till you see several very writing, only the bean bulges they’re likely strong tomato rhubarb is ripe (a to be less tender plants and a crumble and a single chilli plant crème brulee, as you braving the ask…). With so Rutland much fruit climate. The still to climbing plants reach its are being peak, it supported by looks like some homeI’ll be making a LOT made canes. I used a few of jams and chutneys shop-bought bamboo canes this autumn!

SHOW US YOUR GARDEN I’d love to hear how your patch is coping following all the dry weather and I’d also like to try some of your trusted jam, pickle or chutney recipes for the fruit and veg I’m growing. Drop me a line at editorial@greatfoodmag.co.uk and send me some snaps of your patch and the goodies you’ve grown.

76 Great Food Magazine

Before starting veg patch

A bit of hard graft and preparation

Last issue I installed my veg patch in a sheltered spot. I cleared it of grass, dug and turned the soil to a spade head’s depth and edged it with wood.

Beetroot has not been the only plant coming through. Its previous life as a lawn has meant a few weeds and grasses have made an appearance.

SCRATCH part two PHOTOS: LAURA HARVEY

But regular weeding (just from casual observation when watering every morning and evening) has kept my patch looking rather splendid – if I do say so myself.

Things to make & do Build a bird scarer

My daughter made this bird scarer to help keep our peas safe from hungry woodpigeons. Using three old CDs, a piece of string and some beads (“to make them look pretty, Dad”) she created a shiny, spinny, swirly dangling bird scarer that, so far, has kept peckish pigeons at wing’s length.

You could also try wrapping strips of foil around your canes, or thread some ring-pull tin lids onto a piece of twine. We’ve also heard that a toy rubber snake is a very effective bird deterrent!

Cane support is essential

Top tip: use small

canes first, using larger ones when the plants are bigger

Shortly after this photograph was taken, we had our first serious rainy day for months. The effect was utterly astonishing and the peas and beans seemed to double in size in just a few days.

The dawn of MP3 is bad news for birds

Great Food Magazine 77

Taste of the garden T

he growing of fruit and vegetables is very rewarding. The planting, weeding, tending and even just watching can be immensely therapeutic. But when push comes to shove, there’s only one reason we grow our own vegetables – and that’s to eat them. The flavour of ultra-fresh veg really needs to be savoured – so here are a couple of recipes that will show off your produce to the full.

DUNCAN MURRAY’S WINE TIP

Pea, mint and broad bean risotto Serves 4

* 150g butter * 1 medium onion,

* Double handful of broad beans

finely chopped * 300g risotto rice * 120ml white wine * Double handful of peas * Handful chopped mint * 1 litre stock (vegetable or chicken)

* Two big handfuls grated

Parmesan, pecorino or similar hard Italian cheese

Try growing mint in your herb garden

1 Heat half the butter in a large pan, then add the onion and, over a medium heat, cook until soft and translucent. 2 Add the rice and stir until coated – a minute or so. 3 Add the wine and stir until evaporated. 4 Turn the heat down low and add the stock a ladleful at a time, stirring until evaporated/soaked up, before adding another ladleful. 5 Take half the beans and half the peas and mash them up a little

Barbecued courgettes with lemon and thyme * Courgettes * Lemon * Thyme

* Olive oil * Red chilli (optional)

This really couldn’t be simpler. Forget frozen burgers, pink sausages and chicken legs smeared in bright red gloop – this is real BBQ food. 1 Take as many courgettes as you like – I like them about 15cm long, the yellow variety are good too for a bit of colour – and cut them in half lengthways. Drizzle with a little olive oil and rub it all over. Season with a little sea salt and black

78 Great Food Magazine

pepper, then sprinkle over fresh thyme leaves (from your window box, naturally) and grated lemon zest. 2 Put them on a hot grill and turn once. You’re looking at a minute or two tops. The young courgettes are so tender they’re ready to eat – all you’re doing is adding charred lines and heating them through. 3 You can add some finely chopped red chilli if you want a little heat. Mint also works well in place of thyme. 4 Enjoy the intense, sweet, chargrilled flavour, perfect with a glass of white wine in the garden after a long day’s work.

L’Estabel Cabrières White Coteaux du Languedoc AOC 2010 Grapes: Clairette, Grenache Blanc. Light, with apple and lemon flavours to go well with the risotto. £7.99. duncanmurray wines.co.uk

with a pestle and mortar or in a food processor. 6 When all the stock is added, the rice should be creamy but with a little bite. If it still seems too crunchy, add more stock. 7 Season with salt and pepper to taste then add the peas and beans (mashed and unmashed), the cheese and the remaining butter. 8 Stir all this through for three or four minutes, then add the mint. 9 Serve and enjoy the taste of your garden in a bowl.

HOME BAKING

CRICKETER’S ALE CAKE Local cake maker and author Julie Duff shares a beery tale and recipe

le used to be brewed for farm workers, and in our farmhouse in Croxton Kerrial it would have been prepared in the ‘wash house’ using the copper tub, before being piped into the dairy cellar to mature. This strong thirst-quencher would have been drunk in large quantities during harvest. On September 13, 1992, a potent ale recipe was given to us by our farming neighbour, Ann Botterill – I know because the date is still written on the tatty sheet of paper. We have made the ale many times and the result has always been great for both drinking and cake making! It was entertaining having to explain to visitors why the house smelt of beer! The Guardian newspaper originally commissioned this cake and after a good deal of experimentation, six were sent out to the BBC Radio 4 Test Match Special team in the West Indies. I gather they were well received. The ale cake was also included in our cake series recorded in our farmhouse for Radio 4. Incredibly flexible, an ale cake is excellent served with coffee, great eaten with cheese, or topped with cream or custard. What more could you ask of a cake? PS. Gentlemen love it!

Serves 8-12

* 900g dried mixed fruits with peel * 200ml strong English ale * 175g butter * 175g Muscovado sugar * 1 dessert spoon black treacle * 1 tbsp malt * 4 medium free range eggs * 175g plain flour * 50g ground almonds * ô teaspoon mixed spice

Tip: for summer fruitcakes, try using golden sultanas, which are wonderfully aromatic

This cake goes well with a chunk of Bosworth Field by Leics Handmade Cheese Co.

1 2

Steep the fruit and peel in the ale, leaving it for at least two days, stirring occasionally.

Using a hand mixer, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Stir the treacle and malt into the eggs. Using the mixer on slow, add the flour, ground almonds and spice, together with the eggs, until thoroughly mixed.

Stir in the steeped fruits and pile the mixture into a lined 20cm/8in round cake tin. Bake in the centre of a preheated oven at Gas Mark 1 (140C) for 21/2 to 3 hours, until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out cleanly. Because of the quantity of liquid used in making this cake, it may take a little longer to cook thoroughly, but don’t worry, this is perfectly normal. Allow the cake to become cold in the tin, leave on the baking paper and wrap in foil.

4 5

This cake improves if it is left for two days before eating, to allow the flavour to develop. Please note that ovens vary considerably so the time taken to bake can differ.

JULIE DUFF, QUEEN OF CAKES

Julie Duff runs Church Farmhouse Cakes of Croxton Kerrial, Vale of Belvoir. She has written several books on cake making including Cakes: Regional & Traditional, which is available on Amazon. www.churchfarmhousecakes.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 79

How to make

BUNTING TO BRIGHTEN UP YOUR PARTY

A cheerful touch to enhance al fresco dining. By Emily Holt

Make a triangle template out of card. It doesn’t matter what size, just go with what you fancy. I think 20cm length is a good size.

Top tip: choose a fabric design to suit the event where your bunting will be on show

Use a pencil to trace triangles onto your chosen fabric. Mix and match materials or colours for a quirky touch. Rotate the template each time you draw another triangle to minimize wasted fabric.

3 Emily’s bunting photographed at the Garden Barn, Cotesbach

Bunting is a simple way to brighten up your home or to decorate a party. For parties it looks more special then using paper decorations and you can bring it out every year. In the long run you will save money. It will be unique and you’ll know that no one else has the same decoration. You can also make themed bunting for different rooms. I particularly love bunting intertwined among leaves or brightening up a hand rail.

What you’ll need

To make 4m of bunting * Card * Pencil * Ruler * 1m fabric * Pins * Iron * Sewing machine * Pinking shears (sawtoothed scissors, pictured) * Bias binding (25mm x 4m)

A NOTE ABOUT FABRICS: Use any fabric you wish for this project: try using three varieties or go crazy with more! Bunting can be any shape and size you want, you don’t have to stick to classic triangles. A quick Google search will reveal several online fabric shops.

Use pinking shears (they prevent fraying) to cut the fabric triangles (or squares or whatever you go for). If you don’t want to fork out on pinking shears then simply set your sewing machine to the zig-zag setting and sew around the triangle edges. Repeat until you have enough flags to stretch across your space. When finished, iron all the flags.

Space the flags evenly along the bias binding, putting the top edges of the flags inside the fold and stopping 40cm short of either end. Pin the flags in place and run an iron over the binding to make it easier to sew.

ABOUT THE WRITER

Forest Elf Emily Holt – aka Forest Elf – has a new home accessories and vintage clothing shop at the Stable Yard, Cotesbach, Leics. For more information, go to the Forest Elf website: www.forestelf.co.uk

80 Great Food Magazine

Sew the flags to the binding and use the flag-free end sections to create 40cm loops for hanging your bunting (see above, right).

FINISHED! Now hang your bunting, mix a Pimm’s and light the barbie

Antiques for dining areas

Off licence sign

Seeing as traditional off licences have all but vanished from our troubled high streets, this hand-painted early 20th century shop sign really is a piece of history. Indulge your kitchen with this unique piece of folk art. Price: £220 Where? Rutland Antiques Centre, Uppingham, 01572 824011,

Patinated objets d’art to add a unique touch to your kitchen or dining room. All the antiques here are available locally and have been lovingly selected by the man behind Matthew Cox Antiques. Find out more at www.matthewcoxantiques.com

£175 is a small price to pay for a charming old high chair that will support your little one as his food-smothered face grins at the table. Made at the turn of the century from oak and elm. Price: £175 Where? Swans, Oakham, 01572 724364, www.swansofoakham.co.uk

Wall cabinet

In keeping with our enduring love affair with shabby chic, this beautiful 19th century glazed wall cabinet in its original paint would look great full of chunky glassware. Why not give modern furniture stores a miss and get something timeless like this? Price: £400 Where? Claire Langley Antiques, Stamford, 01780 752555, www.clairelangleyantiques.co.uk HOMES Need a bigger house for your antiques? Turn to p74

Edwardian high chair

Coaching table

Schnauzer dates from circa 2006

Free-standing prep table

Not every kitchen has enough space for a free-standing preparation table, but if yours does are you’re looking to fill it with something useful but out of the ordinary, then look no further than this. An early 20th century example from a leather works in Barcelona, the table’s Carrara marble top provides the perfect surface for rolling pastry. Its deep drawers and industrial design make it a practical and fashionable choice. Price: £1450 Where? matthewcoxantiques.com, 0780 2510503

Known as ‘coaching tables’, these collapsible stands enabled the owner to enjoy a port and a cheese board wherever they fancied. This mahogany example was made in 1825. Price: £750 Where? Robin Cox Antiques, 01780 752555

Scales

Still in perfect working order, this set of scales will make a statement as well as lots of cakes. Crafted at the start of the last century and made to last another. Price: £140 Where? Rutland Antiques Centre Uppingham, rutlandantiques.com

Great Food Magazine 81

Show us your

DREAM KITCHEN OWNER PROFILE NAME: Rachel Green OCCUPATION: Pro chef WHAT DO LIKE MOST ABOUT YOUR KITCHEN?

Each issue we track down a reader’s kitchen and photograph it in all its glory

“The smooth, clean lines and the space it offers. I love the central island – it’s purple with granite.”

ANY ADVICE ON GETTING A NEW KITCHEN? “Go to well-established companies and shop around. It pays to have a good relationship with the kitchen designer. They need to understand the type of person you are.”

“I

‘m mad about purple,” says pro chef and cookbook writer Rachel Green, who has just had this kitchen installed in her home in Tealby, Lincs, by Baker Street Kitchens of Newark. “My chef top is purple and my stationery is purple. Having said that, only the island in my kitchen is purple, the rest is a colour mixed specially called ‘spelt’.” Rachel is using her new space for both business – including filming, food styling and recipe development – and pleasure. “It’s an investment, for a lifetime,” she says. “Everything is hand-crafted. “The four-oven Aga has definitely revived my baking skills and I love cooking meats and making sauces on my range. As well as being my office, this kitchen is the hub of the home, we all congregate there and there’s usually a home-baked cake on a stand on the central island.” With festival season in full swing, Rachel is busy travelling the UK putting on cookery demos. She also teaches at the Divertimenti cookery schools in London and Cambridge and is creating recipes for various clients. Find out more at www.rachel-green.co.uk. CONTACT This kitchen was designed, crafted and fitted by Baker Street of Newark, Nottinghamshire, 01623 882288 www.bakerstreetkitchens.co.uk

82 Great Food Magazine

UNITS

Baker Street’s curved cupboards look fantastic and their lines soften the entire space.

FLOOR

One section of flooring is oak and the other (not visible) is tiled for easy cleaning.

COLOUR SCHEME

Using a standout colour like purple in a small but prominent area provides the wow factor and offers a point of focus

LIGHTS

Three hanging lights provide extra illumination above the central island work station, while pin lights lessen the impact of a low ceiling.

EXTRAS

Rachel’s kitchen wouldn’t be the same without her old butcher’s block and steel hospital trolley (not visible).

Top tip:

Mix and match surfaces like granite, stainless steel and wood so the light reflects differently on each to create contrasts

COOKERS

Rachel’s beloved Aga sits below a bespoke canopy. Also installed is her workhorse Britannia range cooker and two Neff ovens. Serious kit.

Great Food Magazine 83

WWW.EVERARDS.CO.UK

everards.indd 2

27/5/11 15:33:14