8. Great Food Magazine Nov/Dec 2011 by Great Food Club

greatfood ISSUE # 9

HANDMADE IN THE HEART OF ENGLAND

£3.20

Christmas Issue

www.greatfoodmag.co.uk

Celebrating local food & drink

The

Eat locally, drink and be merry!

SMOKE IT

How to hot and cold-smoke

Food fest special

Good game!

PICS FROM NORTHAMPTON, RUTLAND, STRATFORD & MELTON

Local chefs cook hare and venison

DELICIOUS FESTIVE RECIPES Christmas pud soufflé, Brussels bake and perfect turkey

P64

Your essential Heart of England food maps

Local restaurants reviewed and profiled

P66

P18

Diary of region’s best Christmas food events

PLUS

The ultimate cheeseboard Three ways to preserve pears Great Food Club update Derbyshire’s best chorizo

ISSUE #9

WHERE TO EAT OUT

£3.20

Also inside...

It’s been an award winning year for Everards bottled beers and to celebrate we are offering a great deal on our entire bottled range so you can enjoy our award winning beers at home as well as in the pub.

Tiger (4.5% ABV) 8x 500ml bottles Now Only £10.99 Was £16.45

Our best selling ale, Tiger Best Bitter is a quality, trusted beer. Brewed using premium quality ingredients, Tiger Best Bitter was a Gold Medalist, at The Brewing Industry International Awards 2011.

Original (5.2% ABV) 8x 500ml bottles Now Only £12.99 Was £19.48

Our premium ale and winner of the gold medal in the International Brewing Awards. Original is best known for its smooth, full-bodied taste. Original was awarded a Bronze Medal, at the International Beer Challenge 2011.

Beacon (3.8% ABV) 8x 500ml bottles Now Only £10.99 Was £15.82

The favourite of our Head Brewer. Its hoppiness is what makes Beacon stand out. You will find a dry finish and wish for more! Beacon Bitter has received a Diploma of Excellence at the 2011 British Bottlers Institute Awards.

There are two easy ways to get your hands on this deal - but be quick as it’s only available whilst stocks last. Visit one of our brewery shops either at our brewery (next to Fosse Park, Leicestershire) or at Rutland Vintners in Langham

Find us on

Purchase online by visiting http://shop.everards.co.uk (additional delivery charges will be incurred)

WWW.EVERARDS.CO.UK

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Welcome

Welcome to Issue 9 of Great Food – your biggest issue yet. As always, the starring role in this magazine is played by the Heart of England’s best food and drink and the fascinating people behind it. After 18 months of editing Great Food, I continue to be staggered by the variety and quality of food raised, made and cooked in our region. With Christmas dancing its merry way towards us, this issue has a festive theme. Recipes shared by some of the area’s best chefs include Christmas Pudding Soufflé, Panettone, and Pear, Apple and Ginger Mincemeat. And for those who like to get stuck in, check out Matt Gregory’s guide to smoking food on p36. I do hope that one of you has a go at catching and then smoking your own Christmas starter! Finally, I’m excited to announce that Great Food Club – a new concept that showcases superb local food, and allows you to enjoy it for a little less – is now up and running (p10).

Editor

www.greatfoodmag.co.uk WRITE TO: Great Food, 7 Victoria Street, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 0AR. matthew.wright@greatfoodmag.co.uk

Twitter: @greatfoodmag EDITOR & PUBLISHER: M Wright ADVERTISING: BPG Ltd Julie Cousins & Becky Kane – 01780 766199 (ext 213 and 235) SUBSCRIPTIONS: 01664 853341 PUBLISHED BY: Rocco Media PRINTED & DISTRIBUTED BY: Warners Midlands plc CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE: Tim Burke, Matt Gregory, Andrew Brackenbury, Mark Hamilton,

Emma Ansell, Jack Thorpe, Aaron Patterson, Shelly Preston, Tim Brown, Rosemary Jameson, Sean Hope, Emily Holt, Mark Tetlow, Graham & Jill Wright, Jane & Enzo Maffioli, Helen Benton, Lucy Cufflin, Helen Tarver, Ross Jeffery, Ian Davison, Laura Harvey and... Rocco the Jack Russell. WEBSITE: @paulbunkham Full Ts & Cs are on our website STOCK PHOTOS: Shutterstock

COVER WATERCOLOUR: Christmas by Graham Wright.

GREAT FOOD MAGAZINE IS BI-MONTHLY: NEXT ISSUE OUT JANUARY 5, 2012 Great Food has been shortlisted for a Media Pioneer Award by the Specialist Media Show – www.thespecialistmediashow.com

Welcome

Contents BUCKS FIZZ 4 6 10 14 18 20

The Big Picture News Great Food Club & Subs Offer Fresh Out the Oven Events Diary Chocolate Workshop

PORK PIE BREAKFAST 22 24 26 28 29 30

East Midlands Food Festival Red Lion’s Christmas Day Planner My December 25 Christmas Pudding Soufflé Perfect Festive Cheeseboard Local Christmas Food Round-Up

CHRISTMAS LUNCH 34 36 38 40 42 44 45 46 48

Jaquest’s Derbyshire Smokery How to Smoke Your Own Northamptonshire Food Show Panettone Recipe Foodie Gift Hunter Langar Hall’s Artichoke Soup Brussels Sprout Bake Stratford-upon-Avon Food Festival Game Recipes

CHRISTMAS PUD 50 52 54 56 57 58 59

Preserving with Pears Rutland Food Festival Pub Walk: Easton on the Hill Lucy Cufflin’s Christmas Biscotti Danny Jimminson The Insider Mark Tetlow

SNOOZE ON THE SOFA 62 63 64 66 68 70 72 74 76 79

Local Restaurant News Profile: Rooftop Restaurant, Stratford Restaurant Map Restaurant Reviews Rural Retreats Deli Map Profile: Brown & Green Profile: Otters Smokehouse Farm Shop and Butchers Map Profile: Flitteriss Park Farm

EVENING SESSION 82 84 86 89 90

Veg Patch Tips and Recipes Dream Home Dream Kitchen Make Christmas Decorations New! The Practical Pantry Great Food Magazine 3

THE BIG PICTURE

The calm before Christmas Fosse Meadows Farm in South Leicestershire is peaceful now but the festive rush will soon begin in earnest ARTICLE: MATT WRIGHT PHOTO: ANDREW BRACKENBURY (ABRACKENBURY.COM)

ll is quiet except for the contented sound of turkeys gobbling and the occasional squawk from the geese. Poultry farmers Nick Ball (the chap on the left in the picture) and his partner Jacob Sykes are patiently posing for photographs, telling us about their slow-grown turkeys, cockerels, geese, chickens and guinea fowl. The location is eight-acre Fosse Meadows Farm in Frolesworth, south Leicestershire, and a sense of calm permeates. But soon the festive sprint will begin, bird orders will fly in, and logistical challenges will commence. Earlier this year, The Independent published an article saying that Nick and Jacob’s birds were the tastiest reared in Britain, having discovered one of their free-range Cotswold White chickens in a London butcher’s, Allens of Mayfair. “We hadn’t been farming long so the Independent article spurred us on,” says Jacob. Becoming a supplier to Michelinstarred Rutland restaurant The Olive Branch has also boosted confidence. Nick, 36, and Jacob, 35, started farming here in April 2009 and before that worked in London as a fashion designer and property developer respectively. “Deciding to start a poultry farm was a big call,” says Nick. “But my family has farmed at Frolesworth for four generations and

4 Great Food Magazine

How to cook the perfect turkey As soon as possible after collecting your turkey, remove all packaging and store in a cool place. If trussed, remove the string before cooking. Do not stuff the cavity as this will stop your turkey cooking properly. Instead, place a large Bramley apple or peeled onion inside. Sprinkle the bird with salt and pepper and place breast-down – covering with foil if you prefer – in a roasting tin. Cook at Gas 8 (230°C) for 30-60 minutes depending on size, before reducing heat to Gas 5 (190°C) and cooking for the amount of time demanded by the weight of the bird. For example, a 5kg bird will take around 2h 10m in total without foil and 2h 55m with foil – add/subtract 20 mins per extra/fewer kilogram. Remember that ovens vary greatly. Thirty minutes before the end of cooking, turn the bird carefully on its back to brown the breast. Allow to rest for 20 minutes before serving. For more information, go to www.totallytraditionalturkeys.com

dad [David] still does, so we were able to start the business on his land. We love it but it’s seven days a week! We stand at Queen’s Park, Parliament Hill and South Kensington markets, and locally we focus on food shows.” Photoshoot over, we tuck into a roast cockerel back at the farmhouse. It has a stronger taste than chicken. It is incredibly tasty. Jacob explains why he believes their birds taste exceptional: “Quite simply, they’re grown more slowly. Our chickens are slaughtered at 11-and-ahalf weeks or more, while commercial free-range chickens are killed at five or six weeks. Our dry-plucked turkeys are reared in accordance with Traditional Farm Fresh Turkey Association guidelines and killed at six months, compared with 8-12 weeks for most. They’re hung for 10 days to improve flavour. A Fosse bird is fitter and has larger legs because it gets to run about outside for longer.” The result is poultry that is packed with flavour, making Fosse Meadows turkeys, cockerels or geese the perfect local birds for Christmas. CONTACT Fosse Meadows Farm, Sharnford Road, Frolesworth, Lutterworth, Leics LE17 5EE 01455 202702, fossemeadows.com

• For a special festive Fosse Meadows reader offer, turn to p27

Fosse Meadows Farm

“ T he Independent said Nick and Jacob’s birds are the tastiest reared in Britain”

Great Food Magazine 5

What’s

Cooking? EDITED BY: MATT WRIGHT

Small HAMBLETONS IS FIVE! Hambletons’ Oakham store celebrated its fifth birthday in October. The family-owned butcher and deli, which sells a spectacular array of meat reared in Rutland and Lincolnshire, plus a range of artisan foods, is now stocking wines from Italian specialist Bat & Bottle hambletonfarms.co.uk

A Sat Bains dish called NG7 2SA (the restaurant’s postcode). Its main ingredients are foraged from hedgerows near the Nottingham eatery

Sat Bains

REGION’S MICHELIN STARS ANNOUNCED Two stars for Sat Bains; Olive Branch toasts 10 years

ST GILES CHEESE Northampton shop St Giles Cheese took the runner-up slot in the Best New Retailer category at the British Cheese Awards, held in September in Cardiff. Winner was No. 2 Pound Street of Wendover, Bucks. stgilescheese.com

WARWICK’S BEST ALE An IPA brewed by Warwickshire Beer Co called Rugby Ball Stitcher is Warwickshire’s Beer of the Year. The ale took top prize after blind taste tests at the Merchants Inn, Rugby. warwickshirebeer.co.uk

CLAWSON SETS RECORD In the latest move to celebrate its centenary, Long Clawson Dairy has successfully made the world’s largest slice of cheese. At a tense event at Long Clawson village hall, Melton Mowbray Mayor Alison Freer confirmed that the slice of Stilton weighed in at a record 110.5kg. clawson.co.uk

6 Great Food Magazine

estaurant Sat Bains of Nottingham has been awarded two Michelin stars in the 2012 Michelin Guide, which was unveiled on October 6. Sat Bains, who previously held one star, becomes the only Midlands chef to hold two, and one of 17 two-star holders in Great Britain and Ireland. Sat said: “We are delighted to bring this second star home to Nottingham. This region has a wealth of produce and some of the best artisan suppliers in the UK.” Elsewhere in the Heart of England, The Olive Branch of Clipsham, Rutland, retained its single Michelin star for the tenth year. Sean Hope, Olive Branch head chef and joint owner, said: “Ten stars in ten years represents a major achievement – the concept of the gastro pub hasn’t stood still and we’ve evolved with it. This is good for the entire team.” Rutland’s Hambleton Hall, where many of the region’s best chefs began their careers, also held its Michelin star. In the west, Birmingham restaurants Purnell’s, Simpsons and Turners retained their

The Olive Branch

stars; as did Fischer’s at Baslow Hall, located further north in the Peak District. Three new restaurants in Great Food’s patch were awarded Michelin Bib Gourmands (“good food at moderate prices”) for the first time – The Berkeley Arms at Wymondham, Leics, The Joiners at Bruntingthorpe, Leics, and the Red Lion at East Haddon, Northants (see p66). Louise Hitchen, joint proprietor at The Berkeley Arms, said: “We are thrilled to receive the Bib Gourmand.” The Red Lion at Stathern and Jim’s Yard at Stamford retained their Bib Gourmands.

FOOD EDUCATION

Rio Rocket joins Peter Parsnip! Northampton-based Secret Seed Society, which encourages children to grow their own food and eat healthily, is launching a new activity book. Created by Northampton artist Shena Cooper (see p38), Secret Seed Society comprises a series of illustrated stories that follow the exploits of characters such as Carla Carrot, Peter Parsnip

and the Brussels Sprout Twins. Each A5 story pamphlet comes with a packet of organic seeds and a recipe. “The new story will be about a new character called Rio Rocket,” said Shena. “The aim is to reconnect children with nature and boost health.” For more information visit www.secretseedsociety.com

Local food news

Rocco GOODBYE BOMB DISPOSAL, Recommends FOOD PEOPLE

HELLO WILD YEAST BAKING After 26 years in the military, Army Major begins baking career

here can’t be many artisan bakers who have defused bombs in the heat of warzones, yet that’s exactly what new School of Artisan Food diploma student Jim Bishop used to do for a living. Jim, 43, from near Lincoln, has given up his role of Army Major and Senior Instructor at the EOD’s Counter Terrorism Unit to follow his passion for food. “I joined the Royal Engineers aged 16,” says Jim. “I’ve since worked in bomb disposal in the Balkans, Iraq and East Africa. I’ve always loved food but it’s since getting my own kitchen that I really started to enjoy cooking. I’m an

amateur forager and have recently built my own cold-smoker and cob oven.” Jim started the School of Artisan Food’s one-year diploma in October and aims to be running his own artisan bakery by the end of 2012. He will be blogging about his experiences at his website www.tinkertailorsoldierbaker.com and at www.greatfoodmag.co.uk. “I’m massively into bread baking and I want to take that one stage further. I’ve decided to make a career change now while I’ve still got time.” The School of Artisan Food is based on Welbeck Estate near Worksop and runs short courses as well as the one-year diploma.

Left: Jim Bishop. Right: School of Artisan Food’s new diploma students

“Excellent places that let me in”

PACKHORSE INN “A year ago I worked as a canine steward at the mid-way point on a 50mile Peak District walk. It turned out to be glorious fun! Not only did I get to nip the ankles of weary walkers and steal snacks, I also discovered a superb pub 50 yards up the road. The Packhorse at Little Longstone near Bakewell welcomed me with open arms and served me several pints of a cracking Thornbridge Brewery IPA called Jaipur. My stewarding became a little erratic, but what a great way to spend the day.” Packhorse Inn, Main St, Little Longstone, Derbyshire 01629 640471, packhorselongstone.co.uk

{

Tobie Norris is best S

New conservatory at the Tobie Norris

tamford pub the Tobie Norris has been named Britain’s Newcomer of the Year by the Good Pub Guide 2012. The Guide says: “Very special, this is one of those pubs which makes you grin with delight at its sheer character the moment you step inside – then goes on to reveal more.”

Sloes plucked near Melton

Andy Hoyle – the man behind Melton Sloe Gin, based at Northfield Farm, Cold Overton – has been furiously picking local berries for his next batch. It wouldn’t be Christmas without sloe gin, so why not try his local brew? – www.meltondrinks.co.uk

}

Transcendent te a rooms CALKE ABBEY, TICKNALL

When Great Food tweeted followers to ask them to name their favourite tea rooms, National Trust property Calke Abbey near Ticknall in Derbyshire was recommended. The Grade I listed mansion, which was preserved as found in 1985, has a tea room/restaurant (open from 10.30am-4pm everyday throughout winter) that is supplied by fruit and vegetables grown in Calke’s extensive gardens. The café’s scones, served with Lubcloud Dairy cream, have a fine reputation. Calke Abbey, Ticknall, Derbyshire DE73 7LE, 01332 863822, www.national trust.org.uk

Great Food Magazine 7

What’s

Cooking? Small

Left: Beckworth’s Afternoon Tea for Two. Right: Farrington’s balsamic dressing

Above: Beckworth Emporium

BEEDHAMS GLORY Butchers JT Beedham of Sherwood, Nottingham, has been named Observer Food Monthly’s Producer of the Year 2011. Run by Johnny Pusztai, who supplies Nottingham’s Sat Bains, the unassuming butcher’s shop beat off stiff competition from around the UK. jtbeedham.co.uk

RUTLAND & DERBY Leicester city centre pub the Rutland & Derby, which has a deli counter next to its bar, has added freshly made pizzas to its list of delicacies. The pub has invested £15,000 in a pizza oven following the launch of its deli last year. everards.co.uk

STAMFORD ORANGERY Stamford Garden Kitchen is to open an orangery at its Casterton Road site in Stamford, Lincolnshire. The restaurant will be enhanced by a glass structure above the patio (see below). Stamford Garden Kitchen hosts evening dining events and sources produce from local farms. stamfordgardencentre.co.uk

NORTHANTS’ BEST EATERIES NAMED Beckworth Emporium wins top restaurant title

he daytime-only restaurant at Beckworth Emporium in Mears Ashby has been named Restaurant of the Year at the Carlsberg Northamptonshire Food Awards 2011/12. The food hall, nursery and produce market uses fresh ingredients from its deli/butchery in its restaurant kitchen, including locally reared meat from Hambleton Farms in Rutland. Runner-up in the Restaurant of the Year Category is The Seafood Café in Northampton, which offers both traditional

SHIPSTON CARD High street food retailers in the Warwickshire market town of Shipston-on-Stour have launched a loyalty card to fight back against out-of-town shopping centres. Jim Cherry, an ex-dairy farmer who runs Shipston food retailer Taste of the Country, and one of the driving forces behind the project, said: “Card holders can collect points at local shops and redeem them. For example, 750 points can be exchanged for a £30 food hamper.” shipstoncard.co.uk

Jim Cherry

8 Great Food Magazine

fish and chips and an extensive selection of crab, lobster, oysters and smoked fish. Best Pub Restaurant Award went to the Rose & Crown at Yardley Hastings, with the Saracen’s Head of Little Brington in second place. Rapeseed oil producer Farrington’s of Hargrave scooped Best Local Product Award for its balsamic dressing, while Best Local Drink went to Fleur Fields Rosé by Fleur Fields Vineyard of Brixworth. The Local Food Hero prize was won by Collyweston Community Shop. The Awards, devised by the Northamptonshire Enterprise Partnership, are in their third year and designed to celebrate local produce and cuisine. Judging is carried out by creating a shortlist for each category. Then the public are invited to vote for their favourite venue via text, online or in writing. Shortlisted venues are ‘mystery shopped’ or tested by two independent judges, both of whom are external to the county. The Best Local Product and Best Local Drink categories are tasted and rated by a local panel.

FOOD TRAINING INITIATIVE

Leicester Market workshops Leicester Market is set to launch a Food Enterprise Workshop in early 2012. The workshop is a pilot project introduced by Joe Harkin, Market Development Manager, and is unique to Leicester. The scheme is designed to give people from disadvantaged backgrounds

the tools to break into the food industry. Workshop attendees will learn about food hygiene and receive business training. “They’ll get guidance and will be able to make food products that can be tried out in a Test Trade Area,” said Joe. “The workshops will offer tips that will help in the real world.”

Joe Harkin

whether you are planning a night away, a christmas meal with friends or delicious goodies for your christmas gifts... www.maiyango.com maiyango should be top of your 0116 251 88 98 reservations@maiyango.com christmas list for 2011! *

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Great Food Club: Enjoy the best local food, support local WHAT IS IT?

Great Food Club showcases high-quality local producers, restaurants, farm shops and delis, and saves you money when you shop or eat with them. For example, using your Great Food Club Card, you can save 15% at Assiette in Stamford, get 50% off lunch at Entropy in Leicester, enjoy 10% discount on free-range birds raised at Fosse Meadows Farm near Lutterworth, and get 10% off lamb and pork reared at Flitteriss Park Farm in Rutland.

“All Great Food Club businesses are handpicked” HIGH QUALITY AND LOCAL Great Food Club businesses are handpicked by this magazine and all – from farmers to chefs to restaurateurs – are passionate about local food and drink. They have been invited to be part of the club. 10 Great Food Magazine

Dish served at Assiette

join today

producers and save cash

Jacob and Nick from Fosse Meadows Farm

WHO’S PART OF GREAT FOOD CLUB SO FAR? Assiette Boboli Entropy Farndon Fields Firenze Flitteriss Park Farm Fosse Meadows

The Jackson Stops Jam On The Hill Jam Jar Shop Hambleton Bakery Hambleton Hall Hammer & Pincers Lake Isle

Hotel Maiyango The Old Barn Inn The Olive Branch The Red Lion Stapleford Park Three Horseshoes More coming soon...

HOW TO JOIN – A SPECIAL OFFER Until the end of 2011 we are running a very special offer – subscribe to Great Food magazine for one year for £17.50 and you will automatically become a member of Great Food Club for one year too, free of charge. So not only will you get six issues delivered to your door, you will also receive a membership card.

Subscribe and get FREE Great Food Club membership at www.greatfoodmag.co.uk Or call 01664 853341 with your card details Or fill out the form overleaf (p13) and send a cheque Great Food Magazine 11

CHRISTMAS PARTY MENU

Celebrate in style this Christmas! Stilton & Broccoli Soup, Home Baked Bread. Thai Style Fish Cakes, Coriander Salad, Sweet Chilli Dipping Sauce. Black Pudding Scotch Egg, Smoked Bacon Salad, Grain Mustard Dressing. *** Pot Roast Blackberry Farm Turkey, Traditional Accompaniments. Sirloin Steak, Hand Cut Chips, Pepper Sauce (£3 Supplement). Pan Roast Salmon Fillet, New Potatoes, Crushed Peas, Crayfish Butter Sauce. Parsnip, Chestnut & Leek Tartlet, Potato Noisette. *** Homemade Christmas Pudding, Brandy Butter Ice Cream. Baked Chocolate & Almond Cake, Praline Ice Cream. Homemade Ice Creams & Sorbet. Stilton & Vintage Lincolnshire Poacher.

£28 for three courses Opening times: Monday: Closed Tuesday-Saturday: 12-2pm & 6-9.30pm. Sunday: 12-4pm. OPEN EVERY DAY EXCEPT CHRISTMAS EVE THROUGH DECEMBER.

www.hammerandpincers.co.uk

p12_GF_NovDec11.indd Sec1:12

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SUBSCRIBE & GET FREE MEMBERSHIP TO FOR LOVERS OF GOOD LOCAL FOOD

www.greatfoodclub.co.uk

WHY SUBSCRIBE?

You’ll be able to look forward to a unique magazine that focuses on local food and drink. You will also get free membership to Great Food Club, enabling you to save money with local restaurants and producers using your membership card.

Club

Six issues of Great Food magazine delivered to your door & free annual membership to Great Food Club for £17.50 SPECIAL OFFER!

SUBSCRIBE AND GET FREE MEMBERSHIP AT WWW.GREATFOODMAG.CO.UK OR FILL OUT THIS FORM (PHOTOCOPIES ARE FINE) AND SEND A CHEQUE I’d like to subscribe for six issues, starting with the next issue (Issue 10, out Jan 5), and receive free annual membership to Great Food Club for £17.50 I’d like to a buy back issue/s (please select which) ISSUE 1 ISSUE 2 ISSUE 3 ISSUE 4 ISSUE 7

ISSUE 5

ISSUE 6

ISSUE 8

YOUR DETAILS Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms First name............................................................................................................................. Surname ........................................................................................................................................................................ Address .......................................................................................................................................................................... Postcode........................................................................................................................................................................ Tel no ............................................................................................................................................................................... Email (essential for Great Food Club) .........................................................................................................

SEND YOUR COMPLETED ORDER FORM AND CHEQUE FOR £17.50 TO: Great Food, 7 Victoria St, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 0AR. Please make cheques payable to Rocco Media. Or, to subscribe online, go to www.greatfoodmag.co.uk and click ‘subscribe’. Important information: Offer open until Dec 31, 2011. Unless you state otherwise, subscriptions will start with the next issue (Issue 10). The minimum term is six issues. Your personalised Great Food Club membership card may take up to six weeks to arrive. Full terms & conditions at www.greatfoodmag.co.uk Opt-out option: If you want to join Great Food Club, then Great Food will need to contact you by email or by post with details of offers. If you’d prefer not to be contacted by post or email, and therefore not join Great Food Club (and so subscribe only), please tick here [ ].

Great Food Magazine 13

Fresh out

the oven Keeping an eye on the region’s food and drink launches

Ben and Tori Stanley with their Jack Russells. Right: A trio of Longhorns

In Brief

Ben & Tori’s burgers

RUTLAND PRESERVES

Rutland Preserves was established by Emma Dodson and Karen Taylor from Whissendine earlier this year. Emma and Karen, who met while playing netball together, make preserves using locally sourced ingredients wherever possible, including apples from their own gardens. Stockists include Farndon Fields Farm Shop and The Melton Cheeseboard. rutlandpreserves.co.uk

SPICE FUSIONS Mother and daughter team Parisha and Rama Mistry from Loughborough has created Spice Fusions, authentic and easy-to-use curry pastes in small plastic containers that come in packets of three – one for meat, one for fish and one for vegetables. Each packet comes with basic recipes. spicefusions.com

TORI AND BEN’S FARM

Young couple launches high-quality meat brand

ori and Ben Stanley took on their own farm near Diseworth, Derbyshire, 18 months ago, and have now launched the brand Tori and Ben’s Farm (toriandbensfarm.com), specialising in Longhorn beef and Jacob lamb reared on their 150-acre farm, plus rare-breed Welsh pork raised at Brooksby College Farm. Their meat and Longhorn hides are sold through their website and at Loughborough, Lutterworth, Sutton Bonington, Ashby and Blaby farmers’ markets,

Saltby Pasture

MOREFRESH Morefresh has launched a new service in Birmingham and Warwickshire delivering locally sourced produce to front doors. The brainchild of founder Phil Meredith, who previously worked for Thames restaurant cruise company Bateaux London, all Morefresh suppliers are handpicked, including Fowlers of Earlswood (cheese). The new service has created 10 new jobs. morefresh.co.uk

BORN & BREAD Leicester Born & Bread is a new part-time bread-baking business based in Leicester’s West End. Creator Jessica Edmonds uses flour from Leicestershire’s Claybrooke Mill and bakes a variety of loaves. leicesterbornandbread.co.uk

TOMS FUDGE Three Loughborough University students have founded Toms Fudge, a confectionery brand that is proving popular at local markets. tomsfudge.co.uk

14 Great Food Magazine

and at Nottingham Fine Food Market. “Before we took on our own farm, we were part of my parents’ farm – Blackbrook Traditional Meats at Grace Dieu in Leicestershire,” said Ben. “But we wanted our own identity, so now mum and dad handle the breeding side, while we focus on finishing.” Tori and Ben, who have won many awards for their pedigree livestock, aim to “get the most out of every animal and focus on quality not quantity”. Call 07884 112812 for more details.

A Samantha Scott with a student

The Confident Cook

amantha Scott, 32, from Kibworth has launched a mobile cookery school in the Leicestershire area called The Confident Cook. ”The unique thing about the courses is that they are held in the customers’ homes,” said Samantha. “By learning in your own kitchen you absorb information more easily.” Before setting up The Confident Cook, Samantha worked in the music industry, cooking for bands on tour, including Bon Jovi. “All courses are bespoke to customers’ needs. My passion for food, ingredients sourcing and my informal teaching style create a lively and fun environment in which to learn.” Call 07969 912234 for further details.

t the East Midlands Food Festival (see p22) one of the most delicious things that Great Food tasted was a rosé veal and cranberry burger from Saltby Pasture. Managed by Annie Wright, Saltby Pasture is a private 30-acre smallholding near Melton Mowbray that focuses on rearing Lincoln Longwool sheep and rosé veal calves. “We’re a relatively new business in that we’ve recently started to become more focused on selling directly to the public. Our aim is to maximise the health of our land and animals and produce fantastic-tasting meat,” said Annie, who also works as a chiropractor. “Our calves have free access to forage at all times and are kept outside except during the wettest winter months, when they move indoors to airy looseboxes. They also get the benefit of my chiropractic skills!” Saltby also produces hogget and mutton. Annie will be exhibiting at the Burghley Fine Food Market (see p19). Call 01664 430444 for further details.

Annie Wright is producing rosé veal and lamb

Enjoy Christmas at The Farm Shop

Fresh from the Farm this winter

Seasonal vegetables including our Sprouts on the Stalk and Wilja, Shannon & Electra Potatoes. Don’t forget your very own Farndon Fields Grown Christmas Tree!

Celebrate Christmas The Lake Isle Way

Free Range Turkeys, Geese & Cockerels at the Butchery Succulent Hams & home baked Pork Pies at the Deli Delicious home made Mince Pies and Cakes A beautiful new range of gifts to make this Christmas really special!

This Christmas, simply relax and enjoy the high quality, beautifully presented food at the Lake Isle Hotel & Restaurant in Uppingham.

Enjoy award-winning wines and advice this Christmas The team at Duncan Murray Wines is at the ready to advise on festive food and wine pairings, great gift ideas, party drinks and much much more. This Christmas, Duncan recommends: • Festive Fizz: Blin Reserve Champagne (£32.99*) UK Exclusive • For the big bird: P-L & J-F Bersan Chablis ‘Les Ouches’ (£14.99*) Made by Leicester Tigers fan ‘Jeff’ Bersan’. • Cracking Claret: St-Georges St-Emilion (£17.99*) UK Exclusive *10% off when you buy 6 bottles or more. 10 Adam & Eve Street, Market Harborough, Leicestershire, LE16 7LT Tel: 01858 464935 www.duncanmurraywines.co.uk

Wines, beers and spirits with personality

p15_GF_NovDec11.indd Sec1:15

Christmas Fayre Menu: For family and friends or work colleagues alike, this menu is available from 1st – 23rd December Monday to Saturday lunchtime and also at dinner for parties of 8 or more on Monday to Friday. 3-Course Menu for £18.50 per person. Christmas Eve Dinner: Start the festivities early with our sumptuous 4-Course Menu for £37.50 per person. Christmas Day Lunch: Stunning 5-Course celebration of Christmas for £85 per person, served at 12 noon. Boxing Day Lunch: Here ’s a great excuse not to cook on Boxing Day, our 3-Course lunch for £35 per person. To discuss how you would like to celebrate the festive season at the Lake Isle, just give us a call on 01572 822951 or view all of our menus on our website: www.lakeisle.co.uk 16 High Street East, Uppingham, Rutland LE15 9PZ

20/10/11 16:30:41

What’s

Cooking?

{ } “I was inspired to make a range of loaves that represented the diversity of Leicester and Leicestershire”

Rosie with the judges, including James Tanner (third from left) and Philip Sharpe from Maiyango (far left)

Rosie Clark

ROSIE WINS COUNTY COOK-OFF Breads are named Leicestershire’s Signature Dish

ocal ingredients plus top quality baking skills have seen Leicester baker Rosie Clark come out on top in the battle to find a signature dish for Leicestershire. The people behind the Leicestershire Cook-Off felt the county needed a dish that could represent its residents in the style of the Cornish pasty or Yorkshire pudding. Leicester city centre management body Le-One selected finalists in four categories and staged a cook-off where their creations were tested by a panel of judges chaired by celebrity chef James Tanner. Rosie’s winning dish was a combination of three loaves – a Leicester beer and honey bread (see opposite), a spicy rye bread, and a soda bread with Blue Stilton. She describes them as “a celebration of all that is good in Leicester”. “I’m a total bread-head,” said Rosie. “I’m passionate about Leicester and its diversity, so when I saw the Leicestershire Cook-Off competition I was inspired to make a range of loaves that represented the different cultures within the city while using local ingredients.” Rosie is also a ‘Bread Angel’, part of the Virtuous Bread network that aims to train craft bakers nationwide to make and sell real bread to their local communities. Based in Clarendon Park, Leicester, she not only bakes bread for friends and neighbours but is training others.

16 Great Food Magazine

THE WINNING RECIPE

Traditional Leicestershire Beer and Honey Bread

Local ingredients impressed the judges

Other dishes making the finals included a venison curry with Red Leicester-stuffed naan from Amardeep Singh Amand, chef at Leicester’s Endimaj, inspired by a visit to Bradgate Park. Catering student Coralie Featherstone represented the aged 16-18 category with a dish of stuffed pork tenderloin with apple, mustard and honey, while the over-18s finalist was East Midlands Today newsreader Maurice Flynn, who cooked a delicately spiced apple and mulberry crumble cake. Rosie Clarke received £1,000 of kitchenware courtesy of Fenwicks, John Lewis and Highcross and also got to see her loaves featured for a week at John Lewis Leicester’s restaurant. * All the winning recipes can be found at www.leicestershirecookoff.co.uk

* 300g Whissendine strong wholemeal flour * 325g Claybrooke strong white flour * 7g dried yeast * 5g salt * 150ml Everards Tiger ale * 150ml warm water * 2 tbsp Leicestershire honey * 20g Leicestershire butter

1 Proof the yeast for 10 minutes with some of the water. 2 Once frothy, mix it with all other ingredients in a bowl, and turn out onto the worktop. Knead for 10 mins – aim for a sticky consistency. 3 Put back in bowl, cover with tea towel and let it double in size for about one hour. 4 Take out of bowl, knead a little and then shape so that it fits in a tin or whatever shape you desire. Cover again and rest for 45 minutes until doubled in size. 5 Bake in a pre-heated oven at Gas 6 (200°C) for about 30 mins. Test by knocking the loaf’s base – it will sound hollow when done.

Christmas gifts for

coffee lovers

Leicestershire-based Cherizena Coffee has a festive selection to suit all budgets, with Christmas gifts from £2.50. Choose from presentation boxes, Christmas coffee packs, chocolate-coated coffee beans and a whole lot more… See us at the Victorian Christmas Fayre, Melton Mowbray, December 4th.

Available mail order from

Cherizena is a leading UK specialist producer of coffee and sources premium, rare and speciality coffees, as well as creating its own range of superb flavoured coffees.

www.cherizena.co.uk

Fresh, local, seasonal food and a warm welcome at Barnsdale Lodge

Barnsdale Lodge Hotel is set in a unique rural location in the heart of glorious Rutland countryside.

Last few available rooms Christmas/New Year. Packages available from £440 pp for 3 nights

or by calling 01664 820111.

The Granary, The Wartnaby Estate, Wartnaby, Leicestershire, LE14 3HY

We have a delicious Christmas menu with locally sourced ingredients. • Morning coffee, lunch, afternoon tea & dinner • Delicious food prepared with fresh locally sourced, seasonal ingredients including beef from Hambleton Farm, berries and asparagus from Manton Farm and Rutland Water trout • Private dining • Weddings • Conferences • Exclusive hire of the whole hotel possible • Vicienté Beauty treatment & therapy room Bring your party to ours! From £26 pp for dinner and disco. For bookings or more info please call, email or visit the website.

p17_GF_NovDec11.indd Sec1:17

The Avenue, Rutland Water, Nr Oakham, Rutland LE15 8AH enquiries@barnsdalelodge.co.uk

www.barnsdalelodge.co.uk

20/10/11 16:33:50

THINGS TO DO

Events & things to do Local food do’s taking place in the build-up

Great Food recommends... November and December are full of festive food events. Here are some of our picks LEICESTER WINTER FOOD FESTIVAL, NOV 20 Leicester’s large city centre market will once again be filled with the smell of mulled wine and street food on November 20 when it hosts its third Winter Food Festival. Expect over 200 stalls and food demos – a good chance to get Christmas gifts early. Free entry; 11am to 5pm; leicestermarket.co.uk

CHATSWORTH CHRISTMAS MARKETS, NOV 11-13 & 18-20

Enjoy great local food in the shadow of Chatsworth at two weekend Christmas markets taking place in the grounds of the grand Derbyshire house. Chatsworth is a great place in which to get into the festive spirit and the house and nearby farm shop are worth visiting. 10am to 5pm each day; £2 car park charge; chatsworth.org

BBC WINTER GOOD FOOD SHOW, NOV 23-27

Held at Birmingham’s NEC, this huge event has so much going on it’s ridiculous. Attended by over 400 exhibitors, there’s a Producers’ Village and you can see James Martin, Rick Stein and Michael Caines do their things. 9am-6pm all days; £20.50; bbcgoodfoodshow.com

CHRISTMAS BAKING AT THE ARTISAN SCHOOL, DEC 10

Would you like to amaze Christmas guests with your spectacular stollen and magnificent mince pies? Then book yourself onto this one-day course at the School of Artisan Food near Worksop, run by baker extraordinaire Emmanuel Hadjiandreou. Your marzipan and enriched doughs will never be the same again. 9.30am-5pm; £150; schoolofartisanfood.org

RUTLAND CHRISTMAS MARKETS, DEC 8 & 12

The pretty Rutland towns of Uppingham and Oakham get all Christmassy on the evenings of December 8 and 12 respectively when food and drink stalls are set up in the town centres and shops stay open till late. Expect carols, Santa in his Grotto and plenty of mulled wine in both towns. 5pm-9pm; free; discover-rutland.co.uk

Please check with organisers of all events before setting off

18 Great Food Magazine

to Christmas

Dates for your diary NOVEMBER November 19-20

FABULOUS PLACES CHRISTMAS MARKET, DERBY

Fabulousplaces.co.uk champions individual shops and local makers in Derbyshire and Notts. Site creator Deb Kendall also organises Fab Places’ Christmas Market. £1 entry (free for under 10s); 10am-4pm; The Roundhouse, Pride Park, Derby.

November 19-20

BELTON HOUSE CHRISTMAS FOOD & CRAFT MARKET English country house Belton will feel festive during this November weekend. As well as food and craft stalls, there’ll be seasonal music and Christmas lunch served in the restaurant (12-2pm). Free event but normal National Trust admission charges apply; 11am-4pm both days; nationaltrust.org.uk/beltonhouse

November 26-27

CHRISTMAS FOOD & GIFT FAIR, LINCOLNSHIRE EVENTS CENTRE Lincs was recently voted Britain’s favourite food county in an online poll. Try some of its famous sausages, chine, haslet, plum bread and more at the excellent Lincolnshire Events Centre. £5 on the door or £4 in advance; 10am-5pm both days; lincolnshireshowground.co.uk

November 26-December 23

CHRISTMAS PARTIES AT MAIYANGO, NOV 26-DEC 23 Leicester’s local producer-supporting hotel, restaurant and deli is a great place to celebrate and is offering package deals for Christmas parties. The organiser gets a special treat, too. From £36.95 per person; maiyango.com

November 26

COOKING WITH GAME, SHIRES COOKERY SCHOOL

Learn to cook the following to perfection: game pie, grilled Northamptonshire wood pigeon and Shires pheasant paté. The Shires School is located at the Red Lion pub, East Haddon, so you can go for a drink and lunch afterwards too. £125; day course; shirescookeryschool.com

Throughout November & December HAMBLETON HALL PARTIES

Celebrate Christmas in true style by partying in the supreme comfort of Hambleton Hall. Between six and 60 guests can enjoy canapés, a

Events

1 For a regularly updated events diary, go to greatfood mag.co.uk

2 3

three-course dinner and coffee with no charge for private room hire. £37.50 per person (subject to availability); hambletonhall.com

Throughout November

CHRISTMAS SHOPPING AT EASTON WALLED GARDENS Easton Walled Gardens near Colsterworth comprise 12 acres of peaceful, tamed greenery dating back to at least 1592. On Sundays throughout November entry is free, so you can stroll through the grounds, tick off some gifts in the Christmas shop and then visit the tearoom. 11am-4pm; eastonwalledgardens.co.uk

DECEMBER December 3-4

BURGHLEY FINE FOOD MARKET, STAMFORD

Burghley is probably the finest Elizabethan house in Britain. If its local produce-focused fine food market – held in The Stable Courtyard in association with Tastes of Lincolnshire – is as tasty as the setting, then visitors are in for a treat. Burghley’s Orangery Restaurant, designed by Capability Brown, is also worth a visit. Free; 10am-4pm; burghley.co.uk

“Buying an excessive number of pies from Melton’s Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe is obligatory”

December 4

December 16-17

If you like a taste of the 19th century without the horse muck and child labour, the Victorian Christmas Market in Great Food’s home town of Melton Mowbray is a must. Buying an excessive number of pies from Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe on Nottingham St is obligatory too. Free; 10am-4pm

The last of Nottingham’s regular Fine Food Markets before Christmas is sure to be a festive affair. Held in the Old Market Square. Free; 9am-4.30pm; foodanddrinkforum.co.uk

December 6

CHAMPAGNE AND SPARKING WINE TASTING AT AMPHORA WINES, COLD OVERTON

VICTORIAN CHRISTMAS FAYRE, MELTON MOWBRAY

COOKING DEMO BY SEAN HOPE, RED LION, STATHERN Watch Rutland’s Food Ambassador and Michelin-starred chef Sean Hope make it look easy at his final Red Lion demo of 2011. You’ll go home full of information and with a contented stomach. £40; 10am-3pm; theredlioninn.co.uk

December 9-11

CHRISTMAS AT KELMARSH This event at 18th century Kelmarsh Hall, five miles from Market Harborough, begins with a charity shopping evening on the Friday (5pm9pm, £7.50). On Saturday and Sunday there is a food and gift fair – adults £5, under-14s free; 10am-4pm both days; stonehouse-events.co.uk

NOTTINGHAM FESTIVE FINE FOOD MARKET

December 15

Sip a variety of fabulous handpicked fizz with ex-Le Gavroche sommelier Patrick WhenhamBossy at Amphora Wines at Northfield Farm, Cold Overton. Unearth the best for Christmas. amphora-wines.co.uk

December 18

CALKE ABBEY CHRISTMAS FINE FOOD FAIR, TICKNALL Enjoy the faded glory of Calke Abbey and get stocked up with local goodies grown, raised or baked within a 30-mile radius of the grand Derbyshire estate. 11am-4pm; free event but normal National Trust admission charges apply; nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-calkeabbey

Great Food Magazine 19

THINGS TO DO CHOCOLATE MAKING

Truffle time!

COURSE FACT FILE

Having heard good things about Chocolate Alchemy’s workshops, we gave one a go...

idden away down a tiny lane in Loughborough’s town centre, a ganachesplattered Peter Gardner mixes chocolate from the four corners of the globe with complex flavours to create delicious truffles. The ambitious 30-year-old chocolate alchemist founded his brand and Loughborough shop – Chocolate Alchemy – from scratch in 2009, very much in his own image. As well as making delicacies sold at Chocolate Alchemy in his first floor development room, Peter runs popular chocolatemaking workshops. Two chocolate lovers – Philippa

WHEN? By arrangement (private sessions) – up to a maximum of five people. WHERE? Chocolate Alchemy, Loughborough. PRICE? From £35 each for a two-hour session.

couldn’t resist heading to Chocolate Alchemy to give it a go.

At the workshop In Peter’s full two-hour workshop, you get coffee on arrival, plus a talk on the origins of cocoa; you then move on to a tasting session in which you try chocolate from nine different countries, before having a go at truffle making and combining flavours. You take home what you make and it’s worth avoiding chocolate for several days beforehand – overdose on the day is obligatory. One of the most fascinating aspects of the workshop is

Left: Chocolate Alchemy’s Peanut Butter Cups Right: Workshop fun

‘Sampling chocolate produced in different areas of the world is fascinating’ Maffioli, wife of Great Food editor Matt Wright, and Hazel Patterson, manager of Hotel Maiyango’s new Deli Kitchen –

sampling chocolate grown in different parts of the world. The differences in taste are stunning. For example, Hawaiian chocolate

Above: Philippa (white necklace) and Hazel get truffle rolling. Right: Peter’s white chocolate truffles

20 Great Food Magazine

(“everyone’s favourite and by far the most expensive,” says Peter) is fruity, sweet and complex, whereas Mexican is dark, deep and bitter. Peter explains: “The reason they taste so different is because of the conditions in which the beans grow – factors like how much rain and sun they get, soil type and annual rainfall, plus more complex things like cross pollination. It’s the same principle as terroir with wine.” Before the truffle-making session begins, Peter imparts yet more impressive knowledge. Apparently, there is one lonely chocolate tree in Britain – at Cornwall’s Eden Project – and seeing as the cocoa-growing belt is 26 degrees either side of the equator (pretty much the same as coffee) there’s no chance that we’re going to be growing cocoa in the Heart of England any time soon. But all is not lost – St Helena, a tiny island and British colony in the South Atlantic Ocean, has the potential to grow chocolate. “I’ve spoken with the island’s agricultural commission and they are indeed looking at growing cocoa,” says

THE CHOCOLATIER

Peter aims to build Chocolate Alchemy into a well-known British brand and turn Loughborough into the UK’s chocolate capital. He now has two partners who have bought into his vision – British Olympic athlete Lisa Dobriskey and her husband Ricky Soos. They invested in the business after attending one of Peter’s workshops.

Peter. “If they do it will be the only true British chocolate. But there’s no airport on St Helena – and getting there takes two days.” Rolling truffles and making your own chocolates is a great way to round off a thoroughly educational workshop. As you wander back out onto Loughborough High Street, not only are you full of high-quality chocolate, you’re also crammed with fantastic information. CONTACT Chocolate Alchemy, 5 Church Gate Mews, Loughborough, Leics LE11 1TZ, 01509 238113, chocolate-alchemy.co.uk

Award Winning Pub

A charming building with 7 unique rooms over 3 floors and a large enclosed patio We have 5 real ales including our own White Hart Ale and an expansive wine list that we import ourselves from around the world. We specialise in stone baked, handmade pizzas, plus a wide range of other dishes. 12 St Pauls Street, Stamford, PE9 2BE Tel: 01780 753800 info@tobienorris.com www.tobienorris.com

Langar Hall A LOVELY PLACE TO STAY, A SPECIAL PLACE TO EAT

AUTUMN MN AND MN AN AN ND D WINTER WI W SUNDAY AND MONDAY NIGHT SPECIAL. Dinner Bed and Breakfast for two from £145 - £200

Sunday and Monday night dinner: two courses £25, three courses £30 Daily lunch menu - Two courses £16.50, extra course for £5.00 And the A la Carte Menu

ardly a day goes by without a party at Langar Hall. Birthday parties, wedding anniversaries, ofce parties, re-unions or just a meeting of friends who can relax and enjoy themselves in their private dining room with their own waiter to look after them. In December candlelight and sensational Christmas decorations add to the air of festivity. Please book early! Tables of 10 or less may choose from the daily menus. You will nd the party menus on the Langer Hall web site. To arrange meetings, weddings and private parties please contact Pascal pascal@langarhall.co.uk Every party has their own private dining room according to size and their own waiter. We can offer alternative dishes to those with special dietary requirements or allergies.

Traditional Sunday lunch Three courses and coffee £29.50 Dinner Menu Tuesday - Friday Two courses £20.00 And the A la Carte Menu. Sunday a la carte Dinner Menu served from 6.30pm – 9.30pm

Afternoon Tea £15.00 Served in the Garden Room from 4pm - 6pm Drop in for breakfast or morning coffee. Langar is the perfect meeting place at any time

LANGAR HALL BOUTIQUE HOTEL & RESTAURANT • LANGAR • NOTTINGHAMSHIRE • ENGLAND • NG13 9HG

p21_GF_NovDec11.indd Sec1:21

20/10/11 16:36:14

OUT & ABOUT

Right: Hedgerow jams are handmade in Leicestershire. Below: Helen Wood and Shami Doshi of Leicester’s Helsham Chocolates. Below right: Michael Darling, miller at Cogglesford Mill in Sleaford

S FOOD & ND

ST MIDLA EA

INK 2011 DR

Food festival

East Midlands Food & •

•

More than 10,000 flock to Britain’s pork pie capital

elton Mowbray’s cattle market played host to the East Midlands Food & Drink festival on October 1-2. In many ways there is no more fitting festival venue than Melton’s cattle market: the town’s food heritage is second to none and the market is where produce has been traded for centuries. Over 10,000 food-lovers baked in the hot weather and enjoyed around 200 stands serving mainly local food and drink.

22 Great Food Magazine

Main picture: Annie Wright, who produces lamb, mutton and veal at Saltby Pasture near Melton Mowbray, keeps customers happy with some delicious tasters

Left: Mark Hughes, founder of Northants’ Taste Gourmet Spice. Right: Cheeses from Leicestershire Handmade Cheese Company. Below: Ron Edgar, the man behind Marron Cider & Wine of Market Rasen, Lincs

Below right: Luke Hartland from Mrs King’s Pork Pies, Cotgrave – current holders of the Champion Melton Mowbray Pork Pie Award

Drink Festival 2011 Far left: Bob Pitchfork, founder of Mr Pitchfork’s Pickles, Nottingham. Above: Parisha (left) and Rama Mistry from Spice Infusions, Loughborough. Left: John Lewis Leicester café team (l-r) Kalvin Coombe, Darren Elliott and Leon Marvin

Above: Jeremy Cooper from Lincolnshire Poacher Cheese of Alford, Lincs. Below: Mark Jones (left) and Denis Gwatkin of Gwatkin Cider, Abbey Dore, Herefordshire

Above: Rob and Webb Freckingham of Nottingham’s Cheese Shop. Below: Colourful handmade liqueurs from Marron Cider & Wine

Great Food Magazine 00 23

Red Lion’s perfect Light a log fire and pour yourself a large glass of mulled wine. Absorb your itinerary for Christmas Day – recipes by Sean Hope

hat culinary delights have you got planned for Christmas Day? Melton Mowbray pork pie with Champagne for breakfast followed by as many pigs in blankets as you can fit in? The Red Lion in Leicestershire’s Vale of Belvoir – which has just retained its Michelin Bib Gourmand – has a plan. And it begins with a Stathern Mule...

12 noon Pre-dinner drink

A feisty little devil to kick-start Christmas THE STATHERN MULE

* 25ml Lamb’s Navy Rum

1.30pm Starter

(or any dark rum)

A refreshing, colourful dish to begin

Pan-seared red mullet and beetroot escabeche Why not start with something a bit different?

Serves 4 Beetroot escabeche * 150ml olive oil * 100ml sherry vinegar thinly sliced * 1 onion, 1/2 orange, finely shredded Zest * * 1 beetroot, finely shredded * 1 carrot, finely sliced * 1 sprig thyme * 1 bay leaf * 5 pink peppercorns * 1 sprig rosemary * 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped * 1 tbsp chopped coriander

* 250ml Belvoir Ginger Beer Pressé * 1 slice lime * Dash Belvoir Apple & Ginger Cordial

* 5 ice cubes 1 Rub the rim of your glass with lime slice and then squeeze the lime into your glass. 2 Fill your glass with ice cubes and add a shot of rum (or a little more – oh come on, it is Christmas!). 3 Top up with ginger beer and finish with a dash of cordial.

3pm Pudding Horseradish cream * 150ml double cream * 1 tablespoon horseradish relish * Juice 1/2 lemon * Pinch of salt and pepper

Guinness is the magic ingredient!

Seared mullet * 2 red mullet, gutted, filleted and pin-boned

Beetroot escabeche 1 Sweat off all the ingredients except the coriander in the olive oil until soft (about five minutes). 2 Allow to cool before adding the chopped coriander, then chill for a couple of hours before serving.

Christmas pudding Serves 10

Horseradish cream 1 Whip the cream with lemon juice and seasoning till peaked. 2 Gently fold in horseradish and chill.

* 110g suet * 50g self-raising flour * 110g breadcrumbs * 1 tsp mixed spice * 1 pinch nutmeg * 1 pinch cinnamon

Pan-seared mullet 1 In a hot pan, add a little rapeseed oil. Score the fillets on the skin side with a sharp knife, then lay skin-side down and pan-fry for two minutes. 2 Season the fish with a little salt and pepper, flip the fillets over to finish the cooking and remove from the heat. 3 Add a squeeze of lemon and serve.

1 Start the day before you want to steam the pudding. Mix all the dry ingredients, including the suet, in a large mixing bowl. 2 Mix in liquid ingredients. The mixture should have a fairly sloppy consistency. Cover. Leave overnight. 3 Pack mixture into a lightly greased

24 Great Food Magazine

The prelude to many a sofa-based snooze

* 225g dark brown sugar * 110g sultanas * 25g mixed peel * 25g chopped almonds * 1 large1 dessert apple * Zest /2 an orange

* Zest 1/2 a lemon * 2 eggs, beaten * 125ml Guinness * 1125 ml rum * /4 can barley wine

pudding basin, cover with two sheets of baking parchment and a sheet of foil. Tie with string. Prepare a steamer and steam for four hours. You can eat now or cool and store for up to three months in a cool, dark place, resteaming for two hours before serving. 4 Serve with custard or brandy butter.

Christmas day

Home cooking

2pm Lunch

Simplify Christmas with quick-cook partridge

Roast local partridge, root veg, game chips and bread sauce Serves 4

* 4 oven-ready partridge * Sprig fresh thyme * 1 carrot, peeled, washed, roughly chopped * 1 parsnip, peeled, washed, roughly chopped * 1 turnip, peeled, washed, roughly chopped * 4 slices bread, broken up * 1 shallot, finely chopped * 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped * 1 glass Madeira/Sherry * 1 glass dry white wine * Butter & rapeseed oil * 2 tbsp cream * 2 Maris Piper potatoes, peeled, sliced thinly on a mandoline, then washed under cold water for four minutes The Red Lion There’ll be log fires, real ales, roast chestnuts on the bar and mulled wine at the Red Lion over the festive season. They’re open for lunch and dinner throughout

Partridge 1 In a hot frying pan with a drizzle of rapeseed oil and a couple of knobs of butter, seal the birds on all four sides until golden brown (about five minutes). This will give the partridge some colour. 2 Place in a preheated oven (Gas Mark 6 or 200°C) and roast with a clove of garlic and a sprig of thyme for 12 minutes (partridge don’t need long). 3 Remove from the oven and allow to rest for a further 10 minutes before serving. Root vegetables 1 Place all the vegetables into a saucepan, cover with water, season and bring to boil. When just cooked, remove from the heat and allow to cool. 2 To finish veg, cook in a hot frying pan with a little oil until golden brown,

drizzling with clear honey. Add a dash of lemon juice or sherry vinegar to serve. Bread sauce 1 Sweat off the shallot and garlic until soft. Add the bread and stir. 2 Add the wines and cook off the alcohol by boiling for two-three minutes. 3 Remove from the heat and blend with the butter and cream until smooth. Season to taste before serving. Game chips 1 Drain the water from the sliced potatoes and heat clean vegetable oil in a fryer to 160°C. 2 Carefully drop the slices into the hot fryer in small handfuls and fry to a golden brown. When cooked, remove from the fryer and drain on kitchen paper.

CONTACT The Red Lion Inn, Red Lion Street, Stathern, Leicestershire LE14 4HS, 01949 860868, theredlioninn.co.uk

Great Food Magazine 25

FOOD PEOPLE

My Christmas Day

How some of the local food champions we’ve featured over the past 12 months will spend December 25

THE FARMER

THE PIE MAKER

THE TURKEY PRODUCER

THE STREET FOOD SELLER

Andrew Fear, farmer and maker of Thirsty Farmer Cider. Lives in Sutton Bonington, Notts

Stephen Hallam, managing directory of Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe, Melton Mowbray

Gerald Botterill (pictured left with son Richard), of Botterill’s Geese & Turkeys, Croxton Kerrial, Leics

Jason Horeesorun, founder of Mauritian Street Food, Nottingham

“I’m up at 6am to feed the sheep, pigs and horses. Doing some work on Christmas Day is great because the exercise means you enjoy the day a lot more. I always do the cooking and we have a goose with all the trimmings and wine. Then it’s back out for a few more farm jobs before watching the Queen’s Speech in front of a log fire.”

“What time I get up depends on how I spent Christmas Eve but I always have a slice of pork pie for breakfast – not to do so would be blasphemous! Then I take Eddie the Poodle for a walk around the fields before getting back to cook lunch. We have turkey with all the trimmings, including roast potatoes cooked in ghee.”

“Years ago we used to have turkey with artichokes in white sauce for Christmas lunch without fail. We don’t have artichokes anymore but do have turkey, in spite of processing 5000 birds on the farm in the run up to December 25. We enjoy sherry before lunch, Batemans beer during and for supper we have more turkey!”

“At my mum’s place in Lancashire, mum cooks traditional English Christmas dinner with turkey for me, and Mauritian prawn curry for herself. There’s always Buck’s Fizz for breakfast! Over at the in-law’s at Empingham, Rutland, we tend to have a three-bird roast and fly remote-control aeroplanes in the afternoon.”

THE MILLER

THE CARIBBEAN COOK

THE CHEF/PUB OWNER

THE FORAGER

Nigel Moon, miller at Whissendine Windmill in Rutland

Lee Sylvester (pictured right, with mother Monica Cudjoe) of Tan Rosie Foods, Birmingham

Sean Hope, head chef and proprietor, The Olive Branch, Clipsham, and Red Lion, Stathern

Matt Gregory, Great Food writer, forager and fisherman, from Oakham, Rutland

“For breakfast we have homemade bread with fried saltfish. Lunch involves turkey, mum’s rice and peas, plus yams and sweet potatoes. We also enjoy Caribbean fruit cake made with Jack Iron rum. There’s plenty of Soca music and in the evening we’ll Skype relatives in the Caribbean.”

“The kids will wake me up at 5am and we’ll watch them open their presents. Then I’ll go to the pubs for an 8.30am start. I’ll cook my staff a fry-up and give them glasses of Buck’s Fizz. Then lunch service will start at noon and run till 3pm. When all guests have left we’ll tidy up ready for a busy Boxing Day.”

”I start with cold smoked Rutland Water trout; for lunch it’s roast woodcock or partridge with blewit mushrooms, potatoes in lard and sprouts with bacon. There will be the best Prosecco all morning, single vineyard Barbera at lunch and as much Sloe Gin as is required to get through present opening.”

“I spend Christmas Day with the door locked and phone off the hook! By the time December 25 arrives I need the peace and quiet. Mum and I will share a small pheasant and a Christmas pud I’ve scrounged from someone! The only thing that keeps me going at Christmas is the comforting thought I’m not a turkey farmer!” 26 Great Food Magazine

Fosse Meadows

TFTA

10%

approved

GreatFood discount 10% discount on turkey & cockerel orders simply type the code ‘GREAT’ into our website to redeem the coupon.

Free-Range Free-range Slow Grown Additive Free Traditionally reared Cockerels and Turkeys 7 COMFORTABLE ROOMS

HOME OM E TO TO J IMM IMMY Y’S SMOKEHOUSE . S MOKERS AND CURERS OF M EAT AND FISH

HAPPY BIRDS TASTE BETTER

All birds come boxed and with recipe leaflet Orders can be collected from the farmgate or delivered nationally Fosse Meadows Farm, Sharnford Rd, Frolesworth, Lutterworth, Leicester, LE17 5EE

www.fossemeadows.co.uk 07886 340 752 - 01455 202702

LONG CLAWSON CHEESE SHOP Hickling Lane, Long Clawson, LE14 4PJ Tel: 01664 822332

Open from Thursday 1st December Pat, Mauricia & Lisa are ready to extend a warm and friendly welcome once again this December to the Long Clawson Dairy Cheese Shop. The entrance on Hickling Lane leads to ample car parking for all. The shop continues to offer a fantastic range of cheese for the festive Season. Stilton® in a variety of cuts and an abundance of cheese blends to try then buy will be available. We look forward to seeing you!

Visit our website www.clawson.co.uk for further details & directions. Stay in touch with us on facebook www.facebook.com/clawsondairy Share a Tweet with us on Twitter www.twitter.com/clawsondairyltd

p27_GF_NovDec11.indd Sec1:27

OPENING TIMES Monday – Friday 8.30am – 4.30pm Saturday 8.30am – 12.30pm Sunday – Closed The shop will cease trading on Friday 23rd December at 4.30pm

20/10/11 16:38:56

RECIPE

Aaron Patterson’s Christmas Pudding Soufflé “If you want a Christmas dessert that doesn’t nail you to the floor, this is for you,” says Aaron Patterson, head chef at Michelin-starred Hambleton Hall in Rutland. “It’s rich and festive but light enough to give you a better chance of avoiding that post-Christmas lunch slump.” Sounds good to us – and it leaves more room for the cheeseboard on the opposite page.

Serves 4

* 300g ready-made

Christmas pudding õ * pint crème patissière (see recipe opposite) * 10 egg whites * Sugar and brandy to taste

Crème patissière: * 150ml single cream * 1 egg yolk * ô tbsp plain flour * õ tsp cornflour * ô tbsp caster sugar * ô vanilla pod, split

1 Carefully butter and sugar four large soufflé pots. 2 In a thick-bottomed pan, whisk yolk and sugar together. In a separate bowl, mix the cream with the flour and cornflour and add the vanilla seeds. Pour cream mixture into the pan containing the yolk and sugar. Now bring to the boil, whisking all the time until the mixture thickens. 3 Crumble the Christmas pudding into the thick pastry cream and flavour with the brandy. 4 Whisk the egg whites and gradually add the sugar to taste until whites are thick, smooth and glossy. 5 Whisk a third of the whites through

Use half a vanilla pod for the pastry cream

the pudding mix and then carefully fold through the rest of the egg whites until evenly incorporated. 6 Fill the soufflé moulds with the mix and level with a palette knife. Make sure the pots are clean before putting them in the oven. 7 Cook for six minutes at Gas 6 (200°C). Serve with vanilla ice cream or brandy cream.

“If you want a Christmas dessert that doesn’t nail you to the floor then this is for you”

DESSERT WINE

DUNCAN MURRAY’S WINE TIP

CONTACT Hambleton Hall, Hambleton, Rutland LE15 8TH, 01572 756991, hambletonhall.com

28 Great Food Magazine

Samos Nectar. Grape: Muscat. This is special but don’t just take our word for it – the Vatican also enjoys this Greek sweetie. The grapes are air-dried and then the wine is aged in barrels. The taste is spice, honey, nuts, sultanas and baked apples – an irresistible Christmas dessert companion. Price: £9.99

Cheese HOW TO CREATE...

The perfect Christmas cheeseboard By Tim Brown from The Melton Cheeseboard

7 4

or me, it’s impossible to contemplate a meal at Christmas without cheese, whether as a course after the main event or as part of a buffet. And if I don’t get my Stilton fix, then, well... God help my guests! Here’s my perfect Christmas cheeseboard – this will be particularly good on Boxing Day when friends and family can help themselves, accompanied by a tangy chutney.

1. Sparkenhoe Leicester Made on Jo and David Clarke’s farm near Market Bosworth to an authentic recipe using unpasteurised milk and animal rennet, this is a lovely, mellow cheese – very more-ish – that will also add colour to the cheeseboard.

2. Blue Stilton from Long Clawson Dairy No cheeseboard is complete without the King of English cheeses. Make sure it’s a well-blued mature cheese that’s creamy and mellow. At The Melton Cheeseboard this is our signature Blue Stilton – guaranteed to please.

3. White Stilton loaded with cranberries Cranberries are a Christmas fruit, and that’s why I’ve chosen this. Another from Long Clawson, it’s a crumbly White

Stilton-based creation blended with dried cranberries, which give a rich, fruity flavour. Its sweetness provides the perfect antidote for more savoury and salty blue cheeses.

4. Norfolk White Lady A soft cheese with a difference – it’s made with ewes’ milk. This is produced by Jane Murray at her award winning creamery near Wymondham, Norfolk. White Lady is a brie-like soft-rind cheese, which heightens in flavour and texture as it ripens.

5. Charnwood Another favourite from Long Clawson Dairy, this is a medium matured, smoke-flavoured Cheddar, lightly dusted with paprika. Its subtle wood smoke aroma will add another dimension to your cheeseboard.

6. Sage Derby from Fowlers This mellow cheese is layered and topped with a sprinkling of sage, and made to a recipe that’s more than 100 years old. It has a fresh, clean flavour – great for perking up a jaded palate.

7. Lincolnshire Poacher

CONTACT Tim Brown runs The Melton Cheeseboard: 8 Windsor Street, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 1BU, meltoncheese board.co.uk

For a mature, strong cheese, this takes some beating. One of our best sellers, Lincolnshire Poacher is made on a farm in Ulceby by Tim and Simon Jones using unpasteurised milk and animal rennet. Matured for more than a year, this hard cheese has a strong, nutty flavour and a clean, sweet finish.

o go with your cheeses, make sure you have a range of biscuits and chutneys. My suggestion this year is a product called Toast for Cheese, made by the Fine Cheese Company. This was new out in the autumn and comes in three flavours that go really well with cheese – I particularly like the Cherry, Almond and Linseed variety. Accompanied by Spiced Plum Chutney – made with local produce by two lovely ladies from Rutland Preserves in Whissendine (see p14) – you have the perfect cheeseboard. Serve it with raw ingredients such as grapes, apples, tomatoes, parsley, celery or pickles. Don’t be afraid to unleash your imagination!

Great Food Magazine 29

PRICE: FROM £1.50

Hotel Maiyango’s new Kitchen Deli on Highcross Street in Leicester, sells a constantly changing range of artisan food made by head chef Phil Sharpe – chutneys, oils, homemade pastas and delicious patisserie, plus you can fill your face while you’re there! Contact: 0116 2518898, maiyango.com

PRICE: £14-£100

Farndon Fields Hampers Market Harborough-based Farndon Fields Farm Shop is offering a Christmas hamper gift-wrapping service. Just choose what you want to go in and they’ll do the rest. Contact: 01858 464838, farndonfieldsfarmshop.co.uk

Maiyango delicacies

Christmas coffee

PRICE: £3/125g

Wonderful flavours of rum, hazelnut, cinnamon, and orange are packed into this coffee produced by Cherizena of Wartnaby, Melton Mowbray. A Christmas must-have. Contact: 01664 820111, cherizena.co.uk ,

try this...

Some of the finest locally produced artisan food to sample this Christmas

PRICE: £1.39

Manor Farm creamy yogurt

Produced at a small dairy in Thrussington, Leicestershire, and crowned Best International New Dairy Product at the Nantwich Show last year, this tastes sublime. Perfect for Christmas puds. Contact: 01664 424245

D&M hamper

PRICE: £95

Lubcloud double cream

Made by Charnwood farmer Phil Newcombe using milk from his organic herd, this deliciously thick local cream should be on your shopping list this Christmas. Contact: 01509 505055, lubclouddairy.co.uk

PRICE: £1.95

Christmas pudding

Melton Mowbray pork pie maker Dickinson & Morris, 160 years old this year, has put together a luxury Christmas hamper. Stilton, Melton Hunt Cake and, of course, pork pies are the tip of the iceberg. Contact: 01664 562341, porkpie.co.uk

Made to a family recipe dating back to 1878 that belonged to the producer’s grandmother, this Christmas pud is rich in rum and brandy-soaked vine fruit and nuts. Contact: 01933 622809, alderton.co.uk

Alderton Ham

PRICE: From £18 30 Great Food Magazine

Ham made to a special recipe – first it’s cured, then steamed and glazed with lashings of marmalade, before being baked very slowly, so the sweetness of the marmalade permeates all the meat. Made by The Country Victualler of Newark. Contact: 01933 622809, alderton.co.uk

PRICE: From £5.80

Local Christmas food

Cote Hill Blue

Award-winning unpasteurised blue-veined cheese made on Michael and Mary Davenport’s farm near Market Rasen, and the only soft cheese made in Lincolnshire. Delicious and will enhance festive cheeseboards. Contact: 01673 828481, cotehill.com

PRICE: £1.90/100g

PRICE: £3.85

Mrs King’s pies

All hail the champion Melton Mowbray pork pie of 2011! Mrs King’s of Cotgrave triumphed at the UK Pie Awards. Grab one and find out why. Contact: 0115 9894101, mrskingsporkpies.co.uk

PRICE: £60

Brown & Green Derbyshire hamper

Brown & Green (see p72) sells food made by a variety of Heart of England producers. At its Derby store you make up your own DIY hamper or choose one that’s ready-made. This Derbyshire-themed one includes beer from Derby Brewing Co, Derbyshire Honey and Delisha’s Red Pepper Jelly from Belper. Contact: 01332 835244, brown-and-green.co.uk Great Food Magazine 31

PRICE: £2.50/pint

Penny Red

Halfpenny Green Vineyard is located 250 feet above sea level in South Staffs. Its first vines were planted in 1983. Medium Dry Penny Red is a Pinot Noir blend with a lingering aftertaste that goes well with strong cheese. Contact: 01384 221122, halfpennygreen-vineyards.co.uk

PRICE: £8.50

Red McAdy

This 5% ABV winter ale from Derbyshire’s Tollgate Brewery is conditioned with a drop of Scotch. Hoppy, with elements of molasses. Contact: 01283 229194, tollgatebrewery.co.uk

PRICE: £2.25/pint

Sleighbell

Sleighbell is Leicestershire brewer Everards’ annual 4.5% ABV winter warmer. It’s rich, ruby red and tastes of Christmas without being hugely strong. Contact: 0116 2014100, everards.co.uk

try this...

Ales from seven local breweries and wines from four local vineyards Grace Dieu Vineyard Dry White

Bone-dry white made using Madeleine Angevine grapes grown at Grace Dieu vineyard near Whitwick, north-west Leicestershire. The vineyard was planted in 1991 on a granite outcrop of Charnwood Forest. Contact: gracedieuvineyard.co.uk

PRICE: £10

Samuel Smith’s Raspberry Ale

PRICE: £2.25 32 Great Food Magazine

Samuel Smith is a Yorkshire brewer but this tangy 5.1% ABV organic fruit beer is handcrafted at All Saints’ Brewery in Stamford, Lincolnshire, using antique brewing equipment. Thoroughly refreshing after all those robust winter beers and red wines. Cherry and strawberry beers are also brewed. Contact: 01937 832225, samuelsmithsbrewery.co.uk

Harvest Pale

Christmas needn’t just be about heavy foods, wines and beers. Blonde bitter Harvest Pale from Nottingham’s Castle Rock is light and citrusy. Champion Beer of Britain in 2010. Contact: 0115 9851615, castlerockbrewery.co.uk

PRICE: £1.89/500ml

Local Christmas booze

Chevelswarde White

Remarkable Chevelswarde Organic Vineyard near South Kilworth, Leicestershire, was planted by a 46-year-old John Daltry in 1973. Now 82, John and his wife Ruth still produce highly drinkable reds and whites. Available from John and Ruth’s farm shop. Contact: Chevelswarde, Chevel House, The Belt, South Kilworth LE17 6DX, 01858 575309

Naseby

This red from Market Harborough vineyard Welland Valley is full-bodied, dry and aged in Burgundy oak, made using Rondo and Regent grapes. Its name refers to a an English Civil War battle, which took place near the vineyard in 1645. Contact: 01858 434591, wellandvineyard.com

PRICE: £7.95

Duck Soup

This rich, malty Warwickshire Beer Co ale was first brewed for Warwick University bar. Now it has spread its wings, winning a SIBA Gold Medal at Nottingham Beer Fest. Contact: 01926 450747, warwickshirebeer.co.uk

PRICE: £1.99/500ml

Blue Brew

PRICE: £7 PRICE: £2.10/500ml

Brewed in Old Dalby, Leicestershire by blending a small amount of Stilton whey with unfermented wort, this is a fascinating festive brew. Surprisingly subtle. Contact: 01664 823455, belvoir brewery.com

Dusty Penny

This full-bodied porter from Flipside Brewery of Colwick, Nottinghamshire, offers chocolate, caramel and vanilla flavours with a bitter finish. Contact: 0115 9877500, flipsidebrewery.co.uk

PRICE: £2.20/500ml Great Food Magazine 33

LOCAL PRODUCER

Smokin’

Self-taught Derbyshire smoker John Jaquest has perfected his art over two decades. Great Food went to sample his wares...

n an unassuming industrial estate in the shadow of Derbyshire’s Bolsover Castle, the evocative aroma of beech and oak smoke fills the autumn air. The origin of the smell is Jaquest Smokery, a smoking and curing business that has been flavouring everything from olive oil to chorizo to mojama (wind-dried tuna) since 1989. The smokery is run by married couple John and Pauline Jaquest (the name is of Huguenot origin) who were named Derbyshire Food Heroes 2010/11 by Derbyshire County Council. John and Pauline were also recent stars of Channel 4’s Secret Supper Club. “We were filmed at Thornbridge Brewery down the road,” says John. “They wanted us to create a recipe linked to the brewery, so I took our minced smoked duck, wrapped it round boiled quail eggs, dipped them in milled toasted barley from Thornbridge and deep-fried them – the taste was electric.”

Long road to success The Jaquests run a successful business from their factory-cum-deli supplying a range of high-quality outlets with a spectacular range of smoked and cured food (see ‘Huge Range’ box below). Stockists and buyers include Welbeck Farm Shop, The Three Horseshoes at Breedon, Nottingham’s Number 8 Deli and Gonalston Farm Shop. But getting to this point has been tough going.

control. Buyers could – and did – cut us out, going straight to the producers. I realised that the only way to be in control was to manufacture my own food. I had no experience of smoking or curing but liked the idea. I read a few books and made some stuff that was inedible! But when you’re losing money you learn very quickly, and before long we’d won a prize at the Great Taste Awards in London and then the accolades kept coming.” Jaquest’s air-dried biltong has won many South African fans

John and Pauline used to run pubs – including one near Sellafield before bad press surrounding the nearby nuclear site forced them to leave. “We lost pretty much everything then and came back to Derbyshire. In 1989 we set up as a food wholesaler, starting with a fridge, a cool box and a van. We sourced some superb ingredients from around the UK and knocked on the doors of restaurants and hotels all day, building up a good client base. But quickly we saw that we weren’t in

HUGE RANGE...

Smoking smorgasboard “You name it, we smoke it,” says John. Jaquest smokes all sorts including Blue Stilton, olive oil, salt, paprika and garlic, while some of its more intriguing creations are Bolsover Smokie, The Beast (see far right), Coppa di Parma, Biltong and Hardwick Air Dried Ham. It’s clearly impressed food judges – Jaquest has won plenty of medals. The picture on the right shows John with Loyd Grossman (left) and Raymond Blanc winning a prize at the Derbyshire Food Fair several years ago.

34 Great Food Magazine

Simple and local John uses British produce for all his creations. “We smoke mainly local meats and work closely with Owen Taylor butchers in Alfreton. Our salmon comes from Shetland but local fishermen bring their catch in to be smoked and farmers send us their bacon for curing. Our cures are just sea salt and raw cane sugar, and we use simple herbs and spices. It’s how food used to be made years ago.” John is particularly proud of his biltong, which South Africans travel from miles around to get hold of. “It’s cured silverside of beef marinated in pepper, fennel and other spices – it took three years to perfect the recipe.”

The smokers Jaquest’s smokers are large, modern, metallic ovens that can be closely controlled to smoke quickly or slowly, hot or cool. “We smoke with both oak and beech,” says John. “Oak is more for flavour, while the beech – despite being a lighter wood – gives the food colour. Some things have to be smoked at a low temperature, such as Stilton. Foods like salmon that need smoking long and slow can be left overnight.” Jaquest’s new website offering UKwide delivery will be live soon – for more visit www.jaquest.co.uk CONTACT Jaquest Food Specialists, Bolsover Business Park, Bolsover S44 6BB 01246 827972, www.jaquest.co.uk

Smoking & curing

Chorizo

After chorizo is cured, hung and at optimum dryness, it is then put into the smoker, which helps to create the distinctive, complex flavour.

Parathas.

The Beast!

Named in honour of straight-talking left-wing Labour MP for Bolsover, Dennis Skinner – often referred to as The Beast – Jaquest’s chilli chorizo gives one hell of a kick. “It’s upfront and spicy, just like Mr Skinner!” says John. It’s cured, smoked pork with plenty of chilli and garlic added. The Beast would perk up many a dish and could make a fiesty starter served drizzled with olive oil.

Pastrami is made by marinating beef for a month before cooking

DIY FOOD Hot smoking

FLAVOURING & PRESERVING

The art of smoking Go big on flavour, says Matt Gregory

umans have been eating smoked food since we first discovered fire – your average caveman’s kitchen would have been a scraped-out hollow for the fire and his cooking technique a vague hope that the cave didn’t fill up too much with smoke. The preserving qualities of smoke would have been noted as the winter wore on and the meat in the cave didn’t rot. Only later did the magical pairing of salt and Matt Gregory’s homemade cold-smoking system

wood smoke give rise to fully preserved food. SMOKER TIPS Salt, with its 1. Never use resinous, treated or chain-sawn antibacterial and sawdust in your smoker as dehydrating qualities, these will taint your food. combined with 2. A tray of water in your hot smoker will further drying and help stop the food antioxidant action of drying out wood smoke produced food that would last through a long winter and, importantly, taste delicious. Today, food’s ability to keep is secondary to how it tastes, due to refrigeration, vacuum packing and fast routes to market. We now smoke food because we like the flavour. Salt still plays an important role for taste, but levels are lower. The two forms of smoking are hot-smoking – when food is cooked in a smoky atmosphere at temperatures similar to an oven – and cold smoking – when food is flavoured and preserved at temperatures not exceeding 30°C. Both methods have their merits and are achievable at home.

Matt Gregory’s smoking kit... For cold smoking: Wine barrel with a lid with bamboo sticks to hang food from (the smoking chamber); a metal bin in which to burn sawdust; ducting pipe where smoke cools before reaching food. For hot smoking: Barbecue with lid; aluminium pan to fill with water and place next to coals.

Cheating

A company called Savu produces a tin foil bag that has wood chips sealed inside. Unexpectedly, these work rather well. You simply slide half a chicken, or indeed your Sunday veg, into the bag, seal it up and pop it in the oven. The house does not smell of smoke and the food comes out with a distinct smoky aroma. Is it smoked? Not really, but it does taste nice and it’s dead easy to do. Try www.bushgear.co.uk.

36 Great Food Magazine

You probably already own a hot smoker – it’s the barbecue with the lid that you only use for keeping the rain out of it. In essence, if you put the lid on while cooking, you’re hot smoking. Cures can be much shorter compared with cold smoking, and a rest period is not necessary because the food will take the smoke more quickly at the higher temperatures. Cures can be more elaborate too as the risk of bacterial infection is lower. The trick is to rake the coals to one side of the barbecue and an excellent way to keep the food moist is to place an aluminium pan full of water in the space they have vacated. Cover the coals with sawdust and place the food on the grill over the water pan and close the lid, making sure all bottom vents are open. The temperature will climb slowly as the sawdust is burnt through. There will be lots of smoke. Your food will be ready to eat as soon as it comes out of the barbecue.

Before cold smoking your trout you need to salt it, season and hang for up to 24 hours.

Cold smoking Our most beloved smoked foods are cold smoked: salmon, kippers and bacon being the most obvious. To produce them at home you need to be a little inventive and have patience because the process can take several days from start to finish. Big trout are my stock cold-smoking fare and the process can be adapted for bacon (which takes more time), sausages (less time) or even whole hams (a lot more time). Filleted trout are dry-cured in salt for about 15 minutes per centimetre of flesh thickness. Ordinary table salt is fine for this and you can also add herbs, spices, mustard powder or sugar. If you use a lot of additions you will have to increase the curing time as the proportion of salt touching the fish will

Smoking

A ham and a pork belly go into Matt’s hot smoker.

Wood and sawdust create smoke.

Heat builds. Putting an aluminium pan filled with water inside will keep food moist.

Food is now ready to eat.

An old wine barrel makes an excellent chamber for cold smoking.

have decreased. After the required time, wash off the salt cure and hang the fish up to dry somewhere cool and away from pests! This drying process is particularly important because it assists in the absorption of smoke, and can take up to 24 hours. Aim for at least overnight. For the smoking itself you will need an enclosed chamber in which to hang your fish or one large enough to take a series of racks on which you can place your fillets. The trick is to introduce cooled smoke to fill the chamber and surround the fish. My cold-smoking system is a wine barrel that has smoke ducted to it from a metal dustbin.

Smoke created by sawdust being heated in a metal bin is piped into the barrel (see image on opposite page). The lid is closed and trout fillets are left for 12-18 hours.

“The trick is to introduce cooled hardwood smoke to fill the chamber and surround the fish” Sawdust in the bin is ignited by a gas ring underneath. The wood should smoulder without catching fire, producing a small volume of smoke that is cool by the time it reaches the barrel. Sawdust should be hardwood rather than resinous softwood – ash or oak are two good options. Trout fillets take 12-18 hours in continuous smoke and need a further rest of 24 hours before they are ready to eat. A side of bacon can take three or four days to smoke.

ProQ produces a smoke generator box that is lit by a tea light and can run for 10 hours on as little as 100g of sawdust – worth a look at if space is limited (try forfoodsmokers.co.uk). Q

About the writer

Matt Gregory from Oakham in Rutland runs food-smoking lessons at Stamford Cookery School. He is a keen fisherman, forager and home brewer and used to import wine for a living.

Great Food Magazine 37

OUT & ABOUT

Above: Sheena Cooper (left) and Mona Shivashankar from the Secret Seed Society (see p8). Left: Steve and Caroline Ward from St Giles Cheese, Northampton

he grounds of Holdenby House near Northampton were peppered with food and drink producers on August 27-28 for the Northamptonshire Food Show. The house, built in 1583, provided a superb

backdrop for the event and 6000 visitors came through the gates over the two days. A highlight was the cooking demo by Michelin-starred chef Adam Gray (see main picture, above), joint owner of Shires Cookery School in East Haddon.

A celebration of local food and drink in a wonderful setting

Northamptonshire Top left: Gordon and Monique Heron with new arrival Amelie. They run The Larder Deli, Castle Ashby. Above: Jean and Nigel Sturtivant from Ambalama Spices of Ross on Wye. They set up Ambalama after visiting Sri Lanka in 2004

Above left: Adam Gray from Shires Cookery School. Right: Dan Massey (left) and Duncan Brown from Brown’s Gourmet Sausages from Wollaston, Northants. Left: Vanessa Kimbell, author of cook book Prepped, in the demo tent

38 Great Food Magazine

Above left: Mike Walsh from Tunnel Brewery near Nuneaton. Above right: Michelle Collier from the Northamptonshire Food & Drink Awards serves tasters of Farrington’s Balsamic Dressing and Brixworth Paté, finalists in the Best Local Product category. Below: Food on the Larder Deli’s stand

NSHIRE F TO

RTHAM P NO

Food festival

SHOW OD • O

Scott Grimsley (left) and Adam Czyz, head chef and sous chef respectively at the Olde Red Lion, Kislingbury

•

Below: Holdenby House was built in 1583 by Sir Christopher Hatton, Lord Chancellor to Elizabeth I

Food Show Marco Baglieri (left) and Phil Clarke of Nottingham’s Pietanze cook traditional Sicilian Arancini (deep-fried rice balls)

Great Food Magazine 00 39

RECIPE

Mauro Vitali’s Panettone

San Carlo chef shares an Italian classic A slice of panettone with a flute of Prosecco… it’s the traditional Italian way to celebrate Christmas! Few people bake their own panettone, being tempted instead by those available from Italian delis and supermarkets. But making one yourself isn’t hard and will definitely impress. We asked Mauro Vitali, head chef at Italian restaurant San Carlo in Leicester for his recipe... “Panettone is a cake-like bread stuffed with dried raisins and candied orange and lemon peel,” says Mauro, who is pictured above on the right with San Carlo restaurant manager Fabio Vassallo. “It originated from Milan but is now embraced worldwide. It is a very versatile cake that can also be used in a variety of desserts – try it in place of the bread in bread and butter pudding or, if you have some left over after Christmas and it’s getting a little bit dry, in a trifle. “In Italy, giving panettone is not a simple act of kindness but a gesture that’s rich in history and tradition. So I am delighted to share my recipe with you. Enjoy!” CONTACT San Carlo, 38 Granby St, Leicester LE1 1DE (0116 2519332) and 4 Temple St, Birmingham B2 5BN (0121 6330251) www.sancarlo.co.uk. Bookings for the Christmas period are now being taken.

“Try it in place of the bread in bread and butter pudding, or in a trifle” 40 Great Food Magazine

Serves 8

* 1 tsp sugar * 100g butter * 3 free range eggs, beaten * 400g plain flour, sifted * 75g (3oz) chopped mixed peel

* 1 tbsp dried yeast * 50g caster sugar 1 * Finely grated rind of /2 lemon * 1 tsp salt

1 Preheat the oven to Gas 6 (200°C). 2 Butter a 20cm (8in) cake tin and line with lightly buttered greaseproof paper. 3 Pour the milk into a bowl and sprinkle in the sugar and yeast. Leave for around 10 minutes – it should start to go frothy. 4 Combine the butter and caster sugar in a bowl and beat them together until they are light and fluffy. Then gradually beat in the eggs, followed by the lemon and orange rind and vanilla extract. 5 Place the flour and salt in a large bowl. Now gently fold in the milky/yeast fluid, followed by the creamed butter/sugar mixture. Mix them all together until you have a soft dough. 6 Put the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about five minutes until it’s smooth. 7 Place the dough into an oiled plastic bag, or

* 4 tbsp milk * 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 * Finely grated rind of /2 orange * 100g raisins or sultanas

alternatively cover with a tea-towel and leave in a warm place. Leave it for about an hour until it has doubled in size. 8 Sprinkle the raisins/sultanas and mixed peel over the dough, then knead until they are completely mixed in. 9 Place the mixture in a cake tin (a loose-bottomed cake tin will work or you could use a panettone mould – try cakescookiesandcraftsshop.co.uk). Leave in a warm place until it has doubled in size again. This will take about 45 minutes. 10 When it has risen, bake it in the oven for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to Gas 4 (180°C), and bake for another 30 minutes. When cooked it should be golden brown and firm to the touch. 11 Place the panettone on a baking rack to cool. 12 Finally, dust with icing sugar and serve.

We ’ve been feeding and watering people for more than 250 years and we continue that tradition today. Blending our historic heritage with modern convenience and luxury, we ’re sure that you ’ll nd the Star inn provides the very best mix of good food & drink, warm & friendly company, and a relaxing atmosphere at all times of the day and night. The Restaurant The Star Inn is now open All Day serving Tea, Coffee and Snacks from 9am to 5pm. Normal Bar Service is available from 12.00 noon daily. Serving Traditional & Modern English Fare Open for lunch 12.00 – 2.00pm Monday Night - Pie Night £7.95 Tuesday Night - Fish & Chip Night £7.95 A La Carte Menu served 6.30 – 9.30pm Sunday Lunch served 12.00 – 5.00pm 7 bedrooms en suite incl Continental Breakfast & Free Wi Fi-Internet Access

2 Bedroom Family Suites Double, Twin & Single Rooms Available Normal price £83.00 per Room (Please ask about special offers) Full English Breakfast also available at £7.00 Weekdays from 7am-9.30am, Weekends from 8am-10.30 All prices plus VAT

The Star Inn 1744 Restaurant

37 The Green, Thrussington, Leicester LE7 4UH Tel: 01664 424 220 Fax: 01664 420 298 Email: info@thestarinn1744.co.uk www.thestarinn1744.co.uk

“Our family has worked hard to ensure the true Italian traditions remain at San Carlo. We wouldn ’t have it any other way. ” Carlo Distefano Chairman

Marcello Distefano Managing Director

Alessandro Distefano Manager

Marissa Distefano Marketing Manager

WINNER OF FIFTEEN PRESTIGIOUS AWARDS

38 - 40 Granby St, Leicester LE1 1DE Tel: 0116 251 9332 | www.sancarlo.co.uk leicester@sancarlo.co.uk www.facebook.com/sancarlogroup

Originale Cucina Italiana

San Carlo is not a theme restaurant we are proud to be able to provide the true essence of authentic Italian food, with Italian directors, management and chefs. San Carlo | Birmingham Bristol Leeds Leicester Liverpool Manchester Milan Rome Signor Sassi | London Kuwait Beirut Bangkok

p41_GF_NovDec11.indd Sec1:41

20/10/11 16:42:08

The Foodie Gift Hunter’s Christmas tips

Chilli experience For those who like it hot, a chilli tour and tasting experience at Edible Ornamentals in Bedfordshire will give them something to look forward to. See over 50 types of chillies and go home with your own plant. Contact: edibleornamentals.co.uk

You don’t need to look far around the Heart of England before you find some unique, tasty, Christmas gifts from local producers. Here are a few of Helen Tarver’s (aka The Foodie Gift Hunter) favourites...

PRICE:£35 FOR TWO PEOPLE PRICE: From £2.80

Cranberry Cracotti

If they’re the savoury type, then how about this great accompaniment to the Christmas Stilton? Cranberry & Hazelnut Cracotti provide the perfect partner to the king of cheeses, with a seasonal twist. Especially good with Cropwell Bishop Blue Stilton. Contact: crackinggoodfood.com

love this...

Crikey, is it that time of year again already? Better get shopping for unique and tasty gifts PRICE: Brownies galore! Spice kit From

A chocolatey tin of wonder at Christmas that doesn’t involve Quality Street! That’s what you could send a chocolate lover, with this tin of brownies from The Brownie Company of Oakham. See how quickly each little square of squidgy chocolate heaven disappears! Contact: thebrowniecompany.co.uk

Help them travel the world from the kitchen with the £19.99 World Recipe Gift Pack from local spice expert, Spicentice of Leicester. From Moroccan Lamb Tagine to Cajun Chicken and Thai Green Curry, each little pack gives them the herbs and spices they need to transform mealtimes into an adventure for the tastebuds. Contact: spicentice.com

PRICE: From: £24

Artisan woodfired oven The ultimate gift for food-lovers in 2012. Giving that special someone a handmade woodfired pizza oven to put in their back garden is an act of the purest love! Putting even the most high-tech barbecue in the shade, it will transform parties and, most importantly, enable them to cook amazing food in a new and exciting way. Jack Harrison from Hotrocks Pizza of Nether Broughton in Leicestershire has come up with the design, which is built to dimensions that have been tried and tested over the centuries. Jack will deliver the oven and then show the owner how to use it. These ovens reach 900F in just over an hour and will cook a pizza in 90 seconds. You can also use them to bake spuds, chicken, fish, roasts and vegetables. Elemental cooking at its finest! Contact: hotrockspizza.co.uk

PE R F E C T G IF T FO R R OU T D O O CO OK S 42 Great Food Magazine

PRICE: From: £350

‘at the heart of Leicester’s Cultural Quarter’

Christmas bookings now being taken “contemporary dining space, combined with traditional Indian hospitality” s Business Lunches s Stylish Bar and Late Lounge s Venue Hire Available s Open Plan Kitchen s Elegant Dining Room s Pre & Post Theatre Menu s Reduced NCP Parking Rates

41 Halford Street, Leicester LE1 1TR - Tel: 0116 251 1889

www.chutneyivy.com

&+5,670$6 )22' *,)7 )$,5 129(0%(5 $0 7+ 7+ 72 30 The perfect opportunity to stock up on your Christmas essentials £5 entrance on the door, £4 in advance Lincolnshire Events Centre Lincolnshire Showground Grange de Lings Lincoln LN2 2NA

Call 01522 522900 or visit www.lincs-events.co.uk

p43_GF_NovDec11.indd Sec1:43

20/10/11 16:43:52

RECIPE

Langar Hall’s Jerusalem Artichoke Soup This recipe is from Langar Hall sous chef Ross Jeffery, who works under head chef Gary Booth at the much-loved and highly regarded Nottinghamshire hotel and

restaurant. “Jerusalem artichokes are in season from November to February but tend to be underused,” says Ross. “They make a fantastic, velvety soup. This recipe has a little

black truffle and truffle oil but you don’t have to use these ingredients – you could go with mushrooms instead. And you could buy ready-made gnocchi.”

Ross (foreground) with Gary Booth in Langar’s kitchen

Serves 6 Soup * 1kg Jerusalem artichokes * 100g butter * Salt & pepper * 2 medium onions, finely chopped * 2 cloves garlic, grated * 1.5l good-quality chicken stock * Squeeze lemon juice * 100ml double cream Gnocchi * 4 large baking potatoes * 65g Tipo 0-0 pasta flour * 60g grated Parmesan * 2 tsp white truffle oil * 125g grated black truffle (optional) * /2 egg white, beaten * Salt & pepper * 1 egg yolk To serve * 6 large scallops * Toasted hazelnuts (optional)

CONTACT Langar Hall, Langar, Notts NG13 9HG, 01949 860559, langarhall.com

44 Great Food Magazine

Soup 1 Peel and slice the artichokes, then drop them into a tub of water with a good squeeze of lemon juice. 2 Melt butter in a large saucepan, add onion, celery and garlic and cook till soft over a low heat (onions should not colour). 3 Add artichokes and stock, season, bring to the boil and simmer till artichokes are tender (25-30 minutes). 4 Add cream and transfer to blender. Blend till smooth then pass through a sieve. This can be served straight away or chilled and reheated. Gnocchi 1 Bake the potatoes and once

cooked scoop out the flesh, discarding the skins. You need 300g of cooked potato. 2 While still warm pass through a ricer and combine with the flour and Parmesan. Mix well then add egg white, egg yolk, truffle oil and truffle. Mix well. 3 Lay a sheet of cling film (roughly 1 metre) on your work surface, then roll your gnocchi mix into sausages – you should get three depending on thickness! 4 Tie the ends of the sausages with string, then place them in a pan of boiling water. Once the gnocchi goes into the water bring back to the boil and simmer for 18 minutes. Once

cooked, remove from the water and chill in an ice bath. To serve 1 Gently reheat the soup 2 Slice gnocchi into rounds, remove cling film, lightly dust with flour and pan-fry in olive oil till golden brown. 3 Season scallops and cook in hot frying pan with a little olive oil and butter, making sure you get a nice caramelisation – they take roughly one minute for both sides. 4 Squeeze a little lemon juice over scallops when cooked. 5 Pour soup into a shallow bowl, arrange gnocchi and scallop on top of soup, sprinkle with toasted hazelnuts and enjoy.

“Jerusalem artichokes are in season from November to February”

Recipe

Jane Baxter’s Baked Sprouts with a Stuffing Crust “Brussels haters may well be converted by this seasonal dish that truly makes the most of sprouts,” says Jane Baxter, joint-author of Riverford’s new cookbook, Everyday and Sunday Recipes from Riverford Farm. “It wouldn’t look out of place alongside chicken or sausages, or even with some roast turkey.”

Riverford at Sacrewell

Food box delivery company Riverford Organic started life in Devon and now grows a range of produce at Sacrewell Farm, just outside Peterborough. It was recently voted Best Online Retailer in the Observer Ethical Awards for the second year in a row. CONTACTS Riverford at Sacrewell Farm, Thornhaugh, Peterborough PE8 6HJ 01780 789700, riverford.co.uk

Serves 4–6

* 750g sprouts * 3 tablespoons of duck

fat or butter * 1 teaspoon caster sugar * Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper * 100g smoked streaky bacon, chopped * 1 garlic clove, crushed * 1 tablespoon chopped sage leaves

* 1 teaspoon

thyme leaves

* 150g soft breadcrumbs * Finely grated zest of 1 orange

* 1 tablespoon chopped

parsley * 100g peeled, vacuumpacked chestnuts, roughly chopped * 200ml chicken stock

1 Preheat the oven to Gas 3 (160°C). 2 Peel and trim the sprouts and cut into quarters lengthways. Toss in an ovenproof dish with one tablespoon of the duck fat and the sugar. Season well. 3 Bake in the oven for about 15 minutes, until just tender. 4 While the sprouts are cooking, brown the bacon in a frying pan in the remaining duck fat, then add the garlic, sage and thyme. Cook for one more minute, remove from the heat and stir through the breadcrumbs, orange zest and parsley. Season. 5 Stir the chestnuts into the sprouts. Pour over the chicken stock. Top with the stuffing mixture and return to the oven for 10 minutes, or until golden. This recipe is taken from Riverford’s new cook book – Everyday and Sunday – by Riverford head chef Jane Baxter and founder Guy Watson.

Great Food Magazine 45

OUT & ABOUT

Bangers sizzle on the Great British Sausage Co (of Knebworth) stand. Below: Charlotte and Jeremy Marshall from Kit’s Kitchen of Egdon, Worcestershire. Above right: Award-winning runner bean chutney from Kit’s Kitchen

ON AVO UP N

RATFORD ST

OD FES T FO

Food festival

•

Stratford Festival

Bangers, beers

and brie in the Bard’s backyard

eld beside the Avon, Stratford Food Fest attracted producers from around the UK. West Country businesses were very prominent, including fish supplier Kingfisher from Devon, which was promoting Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s Fish Fight project. Our favourite product of the event was Christmas Pudding Yoghurt from Brown Cow Organics of Shepton Mallet.

Above: Frankie Hails and Jim Cherry from Taste of the Country, Shipston-on-Stour. Below: David Jowett (left) and Amy and Calum Wilson from Paxton & Whitfield’s Stratford shop

46 Great Food Magazine

Left: Guy Collins from Devon’s Well Hung Meat Co. Right, top to bottom: Polly Harben (left) with Judith and Naomi Freane of Somerset’s Brown Cow Organics. Stratford’s bee keepers were buzzing. Renel Newman from South Wales jerk sauce maker Backyard Co

Above left: Live music was a feature of the festival. Above right: Gail Francis and Richard Mallison from Coventry-based organic growing charity Garden Organic

Below left: Festival ambassador and TV chef Alan Coxon of Worcester, who makes his own vinegars based on ancient recipes

of Food

Above: The team from Stratford’s Lazy Cow restaurant. From left: Paul Brown, Steve Keenan, Michael Browne and Darragh O’Shea (from O’Shea’s Butchers of Knightsbridge), Jess Monahan, Ben Rathbone and Steph Lamdon

Above: Lazy Cow Ale is brewed for the Lazy Cow restaurant by Warwickshire Beer Co. Below: Chefs’ demo area

Above: Burgers from Brown Cow Organics. Below: Taste of the Country’s gingerbread men

Above top: (l-r): Natasha Lane, Jack Chatwin, Niki Burr and Ellie Lester from Stratford pub The One Elm’s stand get stuck into Hugh’s Fish Fight. Above: Head-turning van

Great Food Magazine 00 47

RECIPE

Tom Cockerill’s Loin of Hare with Caramelised Endive,

Butternut Squash, Orange & Sorrel and Hazelnut Dressing “Hare is an acquired taste,” says Tom Cockerill, proprietor and head chef of Leicester’s Entropy restaurant. “I have not so fond memories of gutting hares on the family farm. Its strong flavour lends itself to hearty marinades such as the red wine reduction in this recipe.”

Serves 4

* 4 large hare loins (or 8 small) * 1 Butternut squash * 2 oranges * 1 Belgian endive * 1 bunch fresh sorrel * 150g caster sugar * 100g butter For the marinade * 350ml red wine * 1 tbsp redcurrant jelly * 1 chopped shallot * 1 bay leaf

* 200ml port * 6 juniper berries * Peeled zest of one orange

Hazelnut dressing * 2 shallots, finely chopped * 1 garlic clove, finely chopped * 50ml sherry vinegar * 1 tbsp caster sugar * 1 tsp grain mustard * 1 tbsp chopped chives * 1 tbsp chopped tarragon * 1 tsp thyme leaves * 250ml rapeseed oil * 2 heaped tbsp chopped toasted hazelnuts * Finely grated zest & juice of one orange

1 Ask your butcher to take the whole fillets off two hares, from behind the ribs down to its hind quarters. 2 For the marinade, place all the ingredients in a saucepan and reduce by half. Allow to cool and pour over the hare loins in a plastic container. Store in the fridge overnight to marinate. 3 For the dressing, combine all ingredients except vinegar in a bowl and mix. Whisk in vinegar to taste. 4 Segment the orange with a sharp serrated fruit knife. 5 Peel and dice the squash – cut 12 perfect cubes and chop the rest roughly. In separate pans, simmer the perfect and roughly cut squash in water until soft. Drain and blend the rough-cut squash with a little butter, salt & pepper until you have a smooth puree. Reserve the perfect cubes. 6 Quarter the endive and trim off any discoloured root. Blanch in simmering

water for 4 minutes. Drain and reserve. 7 In a shallow frying pan, spread out the sugar evenly and place over a moderate heat until it caramelises. Immediately add the drained endive and 50g butter before the sugar burns (that would be bad!). Shake the pan a bit, then remove from the heat. 8 Heat a pan over a high heat with a little oil. Remove hare from the marinade and colour well (a minute each side). Add the remaining butter and butternut dice and cook for another two minutes over a low heat, turning the hare frequently. Remove from heat, add the orange segments and leave to rest for two minutes. 9 To assemble, smooth warm puree across four plates, lay across the endive, arrange the butternut cubes, orange and sorrel. Slice each loin into three and place. Finally dress each plate with the hazelnut vinaigrette.

ZESTY WHITE !

DUNCAN MURRAY’S WINE TIP Cal Pla White 2008 Grapes: Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo, Moscatel Stunning white from Priorat near Barcelona delivers the fruit and power this dish needs. Intense flavours of apricot, tangerine and grapefruit will stand up to the hare’s richness Price: £13.99

48 Great Food Magazine

CONTACT Entropy, 42 Hinckley Road, Leicester LE3 0RB, 0116 2259650, entropylife.com

Recipe

Ian Davison’s Festive Venison Burgers with apple cream and a simple salad Ian Davison is head chef and proprietor at the Three Horseshoes at Breedon on the Hill near the Leicestershire/Derbyshire border. Having eaten at his pub, Great Food invited Ian to share a light and simple winter recipe. This is it.

Makes about 6 burgers Burgers * 750g minced venison * 250g minced belly pork * 1 tsp mixed herbs * 11 tsp crushed white peppercorns * 1/2 tsp crushed juniper berries * /4 tsp salt

Apple cream * 1 large cooking apple * 1 tsp caster sugar * 200ml double cream * 1 tbsp mayonnaise

Burgers 1 Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and leave to rest for about an hour or so to allow the flavours to mingle with the meat. 2 Mix again and make a small burger to fry off to check your seasoning. Adjust as necessary. 3 Form mixture into 6 burgers about 3cm thick and fry or barbecue about four minutes each side until nicely browned and cooked through.

Apple cream 1 Peel, core and chop the apple. 2 Place in a saucepan and just barely cover with water. Simmer over medium-low heat until tender. 3 Add sugar then mash well with a fork and allow to cool. 4 Whip the cream until it forms soft peaks. Add cream to the cooled apple, before folding in the mayonnaise. 5 Serve the venison burger on a mixed salad with the apple cream.

CHEEKY RED

DUNCAN MURRAY’S WINE TIP

CONTACT The Three Horseshoes, Main Street, Breedon on the Hill, Leics DE73 8AN, 01332 695129, thehorseshoes.com

Chateau Feytit Divon St Georges St Emilion 2008 Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Franc This UK exclusive from Bordeaux has the robust flavours needed for venison. Dark bramble fruit will team up with the meat, while smooth tannins provide the counterfoil to tangy apple. Price: £17.99

Great Food Magazine 49

JAMS & PRESERVES

And a partridge in a pear tree

Save cash and impress family and friends by turning pears into tasty gifts. By Rosemary Jameson

ears are often overlooked when preserving – making jam with them can be problematic because they have low levels of pectin. However, when it comes to chutneys, sauces and seasonal treats, their distinctive flavour is hard to beat. Choose slightly under-ripe fruit if you can, and prepare just before you need them or they will discolour – or put them in water with lemon juice and a little salt till needed. With Christmas coming, why not select some of your prettiest jars and make some of these pear preserves as gifts? Find an interesting basket or trug and include a selection of jars together with some homemade biscuits or sweets. Happy Christmas! PS. Some dates for your 2012 diary: first, the World Marmalade Awards in Cumbria on February 25-26. Go to www.marmaladeawards.co.uk for more info, including how to enter the Homemade Awards. Second, the First British Mustard Festival on March 11 at Scalford Hall, Leicestershire. More next issue.

Pickled pears go beautifully with Christmas ham

Spiced Pickled Pears

Rosemary Jameson Rosemary’s never happier than when packing pickled pears into pretty pots. She runs preserving classes at Jam on the Hill near Oakham, founded the Guild of Jam Makers and owns jam kit retailer jamjarshop.com

If you are baking a gammon for Christmas, these are great. They also make a very pretty gift and keep for up to 12 months. Makes around 1.5kg

* 1.5kg pears * 600ml cider vinegar * 1 tsp ground mixed spice * ô tsp freshly grated

* 1 tsp ground cinnamon * 450g caster sugar * Finely pared rind of ô lemon

nutmeg

1 Peel, quarter and core the pears and keep in salted water with lemon juice until needed. 2 Use a little of the vinegar to blend the spices together, then heat the remaining vinegar gently with the sugar and lemon zest until the sugar is dissolved. 3 Add the spiced mixture and stir together, then bring to the boil. 4 Drain and rinse the pears, add to the pan and

50 Great Food Magazine

{ } TOP TIP

Add one star anise and a couple of whole cloves to each jar before sealing if you like a spiced flavour

simmer gently without breaking up the pieces for about 15 minutes until they are translucent. 5 Remove carefully with a slotted spoon and pack into warm, sterilised jars. 6 Remove the lemon rind and continue to boil the vinegar mixture for a further 10 minutes or so, until thicker and syrupy. Pour mixture over the pears in the jars to cover completely and seal immediately.

Jams & preserves Pear and Orange Chutney

If you are going to enjoy duck or other rich game over the holiday, this is a refreshing accompaniment. Makes about 2kg

* 1.5kg pears, peeled, cored and chopped * 600ml cider vinegar * 350g light muscovado sugar * 225g sultanas * 1 large onion, peeled, cored and finely chopped * 1 tsp ground ginger * Pinch ground cloves * Grated zest and juice of two oranges

1 Simply combine all ingredients in a preserving pan, cook over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved, then bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer for at least an hour, maybe up to two, until thick. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. 2 Pot into warm sterilised jars and seal immediately. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 12 months.

Pear, Apple and Ginger Mincemeat

This recipe from our great friend Pam ‘The Jam’ Corbin perfectly combines the flavours of seasonal fruits into a great mincemeat. Makes around 4 x 450g jars

* 500g pears, peeled, cored and chopped into 1cm cubes

* 1 kg Bramley Apples, peeled, cored, chopped * Finely grated zest and juice of 2-3 oranges (you need 200ml juice)

* 200g currants * 2 tsp ground ginger * ô tsp ground cloves * 100g crystallised stem ginger * 200g sultanas * 100g raisins * 250g demerara sugar * ô nutmeg, freshly grated * 100g orange or ginger marmalade * 50ml brandy or sloe gin * 50ml ginger wine or cordial (optional) * 100g chopped walnuts (optional)

JAM WORKSHOPS

Coming up at Jam on the Hill, Oakham... Dec 10 & 11: Last Minute Christmas. Jan & Feb 2012 (dates tbc): Marmalade Magic. Call 01572 720720

1 Cook the apples in the orange juice until nice and soft. Put into a large bowl and add all of the other ingredients, except the brandy or gin. Mix together thoroughly, then cover with a clean cloth and leave to stand overnight for about 12 hours. 2 Preheat oven to Gas 1/2 (130°C). Put the mincemeat into a large baking dish and bake uncovered for around 2-21/2 hours. Remove from the oven, stir in the brandy or gin, then pot up into warm, sterilised jars and seal immediately. This mincemeat will last for around 12 months – if you can keep it that long!

MARCH 11, 2012

The inaugural British Mustard Festival

Scalford Hall, Leicestershire

More details at www.jamjarshop.com Great Food Magazine 51

Left: Patrick Whenham-Bossy from Switzerland, ex-sommelier at Hambleton Hall and Le Gavroche, now the man behind Amphora Wines at Northfield Farm, Cold Overton

OOD F E DF

• RUTLA N

IVAL • ST

Food festival

Rutland Food C

Meet the local producers who

onsidering it’s Britain’s smallest county, there’s a lot of great food produced and cooked in Rutland. Echoing this, Rutland Food Festival – held at Rutland Water on September 17 – was packed with delicious produce, including smoked trout from the reservoir, bread baked by Hambleton Bakery in Exton, beer from Oakham’s Grainstore, and jams made by Rutland Preserves in Whissendine. There was a great family feel, too – most people seem to know each other in Rutland! a

Above left (l-r): Sophie Nation with Duncan and Elizabeth Robinson of Groovy Foods, Bourne. Left: Amber Whittaker selling Northfield Farm bread. Above right (lr): Grasmere Farm’s Stuart Stables, Jono Cox and Daryl Reece. Right: Cooking demos were led by Rutland Food Ambassador and Red Lion (Stathern) head chef Sean Hope

52 Great Food Magazine

Above: Grasmere Farm sausages. Below: Anne Lucas and Rob Waddington of Rutland Fly Fishing Adventures selling trout caught in Rutland Water

Left above & left below: The Green Chilli Indian kitchen is run by (l-r): Kel Sharma, Dave Plaistow and Sanjan Sharma. Below: Joe Lythgoe (left) and Sam Creasey of Fen Farm Venison, Sleaford

The Dukes of Rutland perform a great cover of Creedence Clearwater Revivalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bad Moon Rising on their ukeleles!

Above: Northfield Farm bread. Left: Karen Taylor and Emma Dodson (right), the ladies behind Rutland Preserves of Whissendine

Festival 2011

Kellie Alexander from Barnsdale Lodge selling Jollydale Cyder

bring big flavours to little Rutland

Above & below: Tim Brown, Paula Hughes (left) and Kath Booler on the Melton Cheeseboard stand

Great Food Magazine 00 53

PUB WALK

The walk

View towards Ketton between Easton on the Hill and Tinwell

PARK IN THE CAR PARK of the Exeter Arms, Easton on the Hill (see right). Cross the A43 and turn right, walking past the pub so it’s on your right.

AFTER A few yards, turn left down a grass path signposted Spring Close and walk through a small village park area, past a monument dedicated to Polish Paratroopers. Now turn left and up the hill into the centre of Easton village.

Easton on the Hill and River Welland, via the Exeter Arms

GO STRAIGHT on, walking past the main war memorial and Blue Bell pub. Then turn right down West Street, following the sign to the Priest’s House.

Circuit encompassing a beautiful village, pretty stretch of river and comfortable pub

OVERVIEW OF AREA

54 Great Food Magazine

Wartime history

}

As you walk through Easton’s Spring Close Park at the very start of the walk, look out for the stone monument that commemorates Polish Paratroopers who were stationed in the village from 1944-5.

some exceptional stone properties that date back to the 16th and 17th centuries. As well as the Exeter Arms, Easton is also home to the Blue Bell, which has a nice, spacious garden for sunny days. As you approach Tinwell, after the railway crossing, look out for hundreds of sloe berries – great for making warming, fruity booze. After these blackthorns, you soon reach Stamford Meadows, where you stroll along a pretty stretch of the River Welland for a mile or so. The only slight downside to this walk is that you pass close to the A1, although only for 200 yards or so. After a few minutes the traffic roar is a distant memory and you’re surrounded by pastoral beauty again. The pleasant bits more than make up for it.

his four-mile circuit begins in East Northamptonshire, crosses into Rutland and then follows the Lincolnshire border for a few hundred yards before returning to Northants. It’s an easy stroll with just one notable ascent – after you cross the railway track for the second time and head back to Easton on the Hill. If you try this walk in the winter it’s likely to be muddy, so do use appropriate footwear. Your starting point is the Exeter Arms (see right) at Easton on the Hill. Easton is a beautiful village, with

GO PAST the Priest’s House and follow the road as it bends right and becomes a track. Continue along the track and the spires of Stamford soon become visible in the distance on your right.

WALK ALONG THE stony track for approximately one mile as it descends towards Tinwell and the River Welland.

EVENTUALLY YOU come to a railway crossing. Cross the tracks and continue straight on along a grassy, tree-lined path with blackthorn hedges on each side at the other end.

AFTER AROUND 500 yards you reach the edge of a field. Now turn left towards a building and the River Welland.

Swans on the Welland

Easton on the Hill & Tinwell

Detailed walk map

PUB WALK

Exeter Arms

CROSS A stile and follow the path diagonally for a few yards, crossing another field to reach another stile.

NOW FOLLOW this meandering, pretty river for around half a mile 15th century until you reach the Priest’s House A1 bridge. Here, do at Easton not go under the bridge but turn right and follow the A1 along the field’s edge for a hundred yards or so. Don’t worry, you won’t be near this busy road for long.

TURN RIGHT, aiming for the wooden railway crossing. Now cross the track (the Stansted to Birmingham line) and go over a wooden bridge. You are now on the Macmillan Way. Go left along the raised wooden decking to enter a field.

GO OVER THIS final stile and continue straight on across a grassy car park and through a gap in the hedge. After walking through the gap, turn left and then carry straight on with All Saints’ Church on your right.

CUT STRAIGHT across the field, following the path towards trees. When you reach the wooded area, follow the clear path as it cuts through the trees at the edge of the field.

Cows near Tinwell

CARRY STRAIGHT ON walking uphill on the welltrodden path, following a line of trees on your right. AT THE END of the field go straight on, following the footpath sign to walk across another field towards an old building.

FOLLOW the High Street downhill all the way back to Spring Close (home of the Polish War Memorial). Now walk back up through Spring Close, out onto the A43 and turn right to return to the Exeter Arms.

YOU ARE NOW back in Easton on the Hill. Follow Church Street downhill and then up again until you reach the main war memorial. At the memorial, turn left onto the High Street.

NOTES: We’ve done this walk and believe that the instructions are clear and accurate. Take a map – OS Explorer 234 – and allow enough time.

Freshly restored, The Exeter Arms on the A43 at Easton on the Hill is worth adding to your list of pubs to investigate. Inside, the feel is one of traditional laid-back comfort but extra touches lift it above the majority of the pub pack. The cosy bar area is firmly in traditional rustic boozer territory (with the exception of the blingy Tattinger champagne bucket and chrome lager pumps). Adjacent is a spacious, pleasant restaurant that combines antique tables, chairs and church pews with an up-to-date feel. On the wall is the occasional intriguing old sign, hops hang from the ceiling and there is plenty of beautiful exposed wood and stonework. To the rear is a new Orangery – a bright and airy conservatory leading to a patio that provides extra dining space. On tap are beers from local brewery Ufford Ales (soon to become Stamford Brewing Company), and the menus are extensive, including sandwiches (around £6.50), head chef Simon Pollendine’s signature dishes (from £12.50) and a kids’ menu designed by the proprietor’s seven-year-old son (from £3.95). Dogs are allowed in the bar area. At the time of writing, food times are 12-2.30pm Monday to Friday; 12-9.30pm Saturdays; and 12-6pm on Sundays. Exeter Arms, Easton on the Hill PE9 3NS, 01780 756321, theexeterarms.net

Sloes en route to Tinwell

Easton on the Hill in twilight

Great Food Magazine 55

HOME COOKING Lucy Cufflin Local chef Lucy is author of time-saving cookbook Lucy’s Food. She runs a shop selling handmade ready meals and store-cupboard essentials in Leicester

Simple Christmas Biscotti

My antidote to GBCD (Grocery Buying Compulsion Disorder)

hether you do a one-stop shop at a supermarket or search out products from local suppliers, we are all guilty of it – over-buying and over-stocking our larders at Christmas. I don’t want to be a Scrooge, far from it – to me Christmas is the perfect time to indulge in something we thought too extravagant for an ordinary treat. But it raises a dilemma: if I know the people I am visiting have also overstocked their larder then what can I possibly take as a little gift that they might not already have bought? Bottles are probably stacked high on their wine rack already, chocolates and exotically flavoured nuts are fighting for space in their kitchen cupboards, so what can I take? Something homemade, of course – and these little biscotti are perfect. They are great made up to three weeks ahead: pack them into pretty bags, boxes or giftwrap them so they look really special. Even if they are not shared at the party then your host will enjoy them in a quiet moment at another time with a cuppa. Don’t think this recipe is difficult just because it is twice baked; these are simple ideas for involving the family in a joint pre-Christmas bake – there are jobs for everyone from mixing the dough to grating the zest to making pretty bags and tags for packing them up. So get stuck in, bake your own biscotti and help to make this Christmas a homemade one!

LUCY’S COOKBOOK Cookbook Lucy’s Food contains over 350 tested recipes to suit all tastes. Published by Hardie Grant, you can buy it from Amazon, Waterstones or from Lucy’s shop at 6 Francis Street in Leicester.

Lucy’s baking tips

Try swapping orange for lemon zest, adding pecans in place of hazelnuts and fennel seeds instead of cinnamon for a truly wonderful biscotti that is perfect with any creamy pud. Add candied peel, dried cranberries – you are limited only by your own imagination! 56 Great Food Magazine

Christmas Biscotti Makes around 30

* 250g plain flour * 2 tsp baking powder * 175g caster sugar * Grated zest of 2 oranges

* 1 tsp ground cinnamon * 2 eggs – beaten * 75g hazelnuts – roughly chopped

(and a little of the juice)

1 Preheat your oven to Gas 4 (180°C). Mix the flour, baking powder, caster sugar, orange zest, cinnamon and hazelnuts. Add the egg, mixing with your hands until you have firm dough. Then add a tablespoon of orange juice to help it come together. 2 Divide into two parts and form into log shapes. Put the two logs on a baking sheet and bake uncovered for 25 minutes. Remove from the oven, wrap in clingfilm and leave to go completely cold – these are not easy to cut unless really cold. Slice the logs thinly and place on a baking sheet covered with baking parchment. 3 Reduce the heat to Gas 2 (150°C) and return the sliced biscotti to the oven and bake for 15-20 minutes or until just golden brown. Do not over-cook as when they are too brown they taste burnt. Allow to cool on a wire rack and pack up immediately. These will stay crispy and ready to use for up to four weeks if stored in an airtight container.

Home cooking Danny Jimminson Family man Danny is head chef and owner of the Hammer & Pincers at Wymeswold, Leicestershire. Many of the ingredients he cooks with are sourced within a few miles of his restaurant

Escape the rabbit race! Make time to cook with the kids. But don’t mention the rabbit!

’m sitting in my kitchen at home thinking: “Right, summer’s long gone, let’s get back to some level of normality”. For the last three years we have been growing our outside catering business and this summer alone have helped with 30-odd weddings, 20-something birthdays, a few anniversaries, the occasional retirement and a few other bits thrown in. This is great for us as a business, but it’s taken its toll on family life, so now it’s time to give a little back to the boys who have stood by so patiently waiting for daddy to come back and play. We recently took the family to Germany to see my wife Sandra’s side of the family. Importantly, we ate every meal together. This summer even when we were at our busiest we managed to eat at least one meal together as a family, but everything

Danny with Sandra, Alfie and Oscar

‘We lived to eat, not the other way round’ Turkey casserole with

always seemed so rushed. This week was different – we shopped together, cooked together, ate together and even cleaned up together. We lived to eat, not the other way round. We all learned something food related. I learnt a lot about the importance of sausage in the German diet and showed my brother-in-law how to make a good old fashioned English-style steak pie! My boys – Alfie, 4, and Oscar, 2 – learnt a few home truths about rabbits and pigs (they didn’t bat an eyelid). Talking of rabbits, I’m reminded of a family Christmas story concerning Sandra. She grew up in a small village just outside the city of Fulda; they weren’t farmers but her mother kept a well-stocked vegetable garden and had a few rabbits intended for the table. Now it turns out that Sandra took a shine to one particular rabbit: she looked after it, fed it (probably

over-fed it and therefore inadvertently sealed its fate) cleaned it and so on. Well, said rabbit did end up on the table… on Christmas Day. And as a double whammy for Sandra, December 25 also happens to be her birthday! She did wonder where the rabbit had gone and was of course upset, but it was very much a way of life back then – still is in fact. Sandra was a little wary of the boys playing with the rabbits this week, but the stew we ate was described as chicken to save any unnecessary tears. Hopefully this year when the kids break up for Christmas, it will be an opportunity to get into the kitchen together, so here’s a recipe you can make with the kids. Hope you enjoy the time and the food together. Q THE HAMMER & PINCERS 5 East Rd, Wymeswold, Leics LE12 6ST, 01509 880735 hammerandpincers.co.uk

chestnut dumplings Serves 6 Casserole

* 1kg diced cooked turkey,

both dark and white meat * 200g diced smoked bacon * 2 large carrots * 2 sticks celery * 1 large onion * 500ml chicken stock * 4 sprigs fresh thyme

1 Peel and dice the carrots and onion, chop the celery and place in a flameproof casserole dish (with a lid) with some vegetable oil. 2 Cook the veg over a medium heat, lid off, until it starts to colour, add turkey and bacon, then cover with the stock and add the thyme. 3 Cover the pot with its lid and place in a pre-heated oven at Gas 4 (180°C) and cook for 45 minutes.

Chestnut dumplings

* 200g self-raising flour * 100g shredded beef suet * 5 tbsp cold water * 100g vac-pack chestnuts, chopped

* Salt and pepper * Handful of chopped flatleaf parsley

1 Mix all the ingredients together into a light and sticky dough, make into balls and when the casserole has been cooking for 45 minutes, remove from the oven, place the balls on top and bake for a further 25 minutes until the dumplings have risen and turned golden brown. 2 Serve with steamed seasonal greens.

Great Food Magazine 57

BUSINESS TIPS

THE INSIDER

Innovation power

Be original and reap the rewards. By Helen Benton

nnovation has a different meaning to everyone. For me, it’s about finding new products and initiatives to drive business growth. The best innovations often make you stop, admire and try them. One of my all-time favourites is Heinz Baked Beanz Fridge pack – not rocket science but seeing the product makes you wonder why it hasn’t existed for years. Innovation can range from new products, recipes and menus to fresh restaurant layouts and promotional drives. With a new year around the corner, I hope some of the following suggestions can give a bit of inspiration.

Stand out from the crowd

Effective innovation will keep your business fresh and grab new customers

Successful innovation stands apart from what others are doing. Copying isn’t likely to bring big rewards. I would always suggest analysing what the ‘norms’ are for your competitors and then consider which norms you can break. For me, Scrimshaw’s Pork Pies – made at Bailey’s Butchers in Upper Broughton, Notts – successfully broke those norms with their packaging. Owner Liv Scrimshaw ignored traditional colours and now her pies stand out in their bold black and white vintage livery.

Play to strengths

Innovation works best for a business when it helps reinforce what the brand is all about. If your pub is famous for being rustic and traditional, why not

58 Great Food Magazine

Unusual black and white packaging gives Scrimshaw’s Pork Pies a distinctive look

use these characteristics as the starting point and make sure any new recipes or events draw upon them? Before you launch, check what a few of your customers think.

Forward thinking

Innovation is about looking ahead and doing things first. Consider what the foodie trends for 2012 will be. Last year, one trend was playfulness. Our local pub took this on board and came up with a clever alternative to happy hour. Each customer rolled dice against the landlord– if they won, they got their drinks for free. Adding this bit of fun really worked – every ‘rolling hour’ Chance to win drinks was during happy hour heaving. packed in the punters

Some of my favourite foodie innovations CUPCAKES AND CLOTHES: A perfect match! I was delighted when we popped into the Kandy Cupcakes shop at Woodhouse Eaves near Bradgate Park in Leicestershire – we discovered a pop-up clothes shop upstairs. It captured our attention and not only did we guzzle a cupcake or three, I also walked away with a new dress and cardigan. SCRIMSHAW’S: See above. Love this packaging because it stands out from the rest.

Kandy Cupcakes shop in Woodhouse Eaves

OCADO.COM AND DAYLESFORD ORGANICS. Ocado is a food-lover’s dream, delivering Waitrose food to your house at a time to suit you. Ocado has now teamed up with online food retailer Daylesford Organics to create a virtual farm shop on the web. The simply-designed site is executed brilliantly, capturing the essence of their products. There’s no reason why local farm shops couldn’t do something similar on their websites. If you have an ambition to innovate but aren’t quite sure how to go about it, please get in touch.

HELEN BENTON Helen specialises in business and brand strategy, innovation and communication planning. Contact her if you think she could help grow your business – www.hownowmarketing.com

The winter warmer

Beer

Cook with it, advises Everards’ master brewer Mark Tetlow

le brewed specifically to be enjoyed in winter has a long history in Britain. These beers are now known as winter warmers, and they’ve been around for as long as we’ve needed cheering up during cold weather! Years ago, these beers tended to be brewed in spring and stored in oak casks till winter – the longer maturation process and proximity to wood helped give the ale a distinctive flavour. Made with winter in mind

as a treat to be enjoyed at the end of the year, the brewer would have envisaged them being supped in front of a roaring fire, particularly at Christmas. As such, they were made to be malty, sweet (not many bitter hops were used), dark in colour and given a spicy, fruity character. They were also high in alcohol – 7% ABV or higher.

Today, most breweries make winter warmers to the same template. One of the most famous is Theakston Old Peculier, but there are hundreds. Examples include Bah Humbug from Wychwood and Rudolph’s Revenge from Cropton Brewery. It’s also worth noting that less alcoholic winter warmers are becoming more popular, such as Everards’ very own Sleighbell (see p32).

Get cooking

Everards’ Sleighbell is the ideal accompaniment to this braised pheasant Mark (left) and Paul after bagging the main ingredient

The port-like characteristics of winter warmers make them especially good as cooking ingredients. I recently went on a shoot with Paul Stevens, landlord and head chef of The Greyhound at Burton on the Wolds near Loughborough. We bagged four pheasant and then Paul cooked them in his kitchen, braising them in a very fine winter warmer – Robinson’s Old Tom. His recipe is below. Q

Game is often on The Greyhound’s menu

The Greyhound’s Braised Pheasant with Winter Ale, Bacon & Mushrooms, served with Celeriac Puree and Kohlrabi Gratin Serves 4 Pheasant * Olive oil * 4 pheasant breasts * 1 tbsp plain flour * 100g mushrooms * 4 rashers smoky bacon, chopped * 1 onion, halved and sliced * 450ml Robinson’s Old Tom or similar * 1 heaped tsp Dijon mustard * Salt & pepper to taste Celeriac puree * Celeriac * Salt & pepper

* Knob butter * Cream

Kohlrabi gratin * 3 kohlrabi * 1/2 bulb garlic Salt & pepper * * 600ml whipping cream

1 Pre-heat oven to Gas 5 (190°C). 2 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a roasting tin on the hob, add the pheasant breasts and cook for three to four minutes, turning to colour. Remove from tin and set aside. 3 Add bacon, onion and mushrooms and cook for four minutes, turning. Stir in flour and cook for a minute, then gradually add beer, stirring all the time. Finally stir in the mustard. 4 Sit the breasts back in the tin, cover with foil, place in the oven and cook for around 40 minutes until pheasant is cooked through. For the Kohlrabi Gratin 1 In a pan, boil the cream with the garlic. Once boiled, remove the garlic. 2 Butter a gratin dish, layer the kohlrabi, seasoning each layer with salt and pepper. Every two or three layers pour over some cream. Pour cream on top to finish. Cover with

foil and bake alongside the pheasant for approximately 40 minutes. For the Celeriac Purée 1 Bring to the boil and cook until soft. Puree in a blender with butter, salt, pepper and cream. 2 Served with veg and Everards’ Sleighbell. Contact: The Greyhound, 01509 880860, www.greyhoundburtononthewolds.co.uk

Everards’ Tiger Hero Recipe 2012 Everards’ search for great tasting recipes using its award winning Tiger Best Bitter as an ingredient starts in January. The winner will get £250 and a year’s supply of Tiger: everards.co.uk/herorecipe Great Food Magazine 59

PROBIOTIC

Awarded to Natural Probiotic Thick & Creamy

LIVE NATURAL YOGURT

Awarded to Rhubarb Thick & Creamy

Quality yogurt produced just 8 hours after milking, BUY FRESH, BUY LOCAL

FESTIVE SEASON AT THE MARQUESS OF EXETER Come and celebrate the festive season at The Marquess of Exeter. Enjoy a warm, friendly, relaxed atmosphere in front of the open log fires in the bar, perfect for a glass of mulled wine and homemade mince pies, or why not enjoy a festive meal in our large spacious restaurant great for getting together with all the family and friends.

AWARDED THE INTERNATIONAL GOLD AWARD FOR THE BEST NEW DAIRY PRODUCT 2010 * FOR PROBIOTIC LIVE NATURAL YOGURT

Available at your local farmshop 01664 424245 (office) 01664 424772 (dairy)

We use the best ingredients to make hand crafted, fabulous food for your freezer. Simply stock and all you have to do is choose what to eat and when. Fantastic food at your fingertips. NEW AUTUMN MENU FROM 15TH OCTOBER 2011 Call in on the way home from work NEW LATE NIGHT OPENING THURSDAYS TILL 7PM •

Great selection of our food in stock. Or pre-order for a special occasion.

•

must have’ kitchen gadgets – wonderful whisks, stunning spatulas, sieves, strainers and much more

•

Essential store cupboard ingredients you’ll love – our own salt blends, unusual spice mixes and lots of recipe ideas

•

Lucy’s food cook book - have a copy signed by Lucy for the perfect Christmas gift

•

New - Sam’s bake in. Cake kits for the novice We can deliver to your door

Visit us at 6 Francis Street, Stoneygate, Leicester

0116 270 0885

Shop open: Monday to Saturday 10am – 5pm Visit our website, www.lucysfood.co.uk, to see our new menu.

p60_GF_NovDec11.indd Sec1:60

21/10/11 09:54:47

Where to

EAT & DRINK A world of great food on your doorstep!

P72

P68 Welbeck

Bakewell

Lincoln Ollerton

Matlock

BROWN & GREEN

Mansfield

Derby

THE CROWN Old Dalby

Newark

Derbyshire

Lincs

Notts

Ashbourne

Sleaford

Nottingham

Derby

Grantham

Burton

Staffs

Leics

Melton Oakham

Lichfield

Rutland

Leicester

P63

Warwicks

RSC RESTAURANT

Kettering

Stratford Upon Avon

Selihull

Rugby Warwick

Peterboroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Corby

Market Harboro

Birmingham

Stamford

Oundle

Stilton

Cambs

P66

Northants Northampton

Beds

THE RED LION East Haddon

Great Food Magazine 61

WHERE TO EAT

Where to eat

LOCAL RESTAURANT NEWS The local food and drink scene is a dynamic business. Tim Burke tries to keep up with it all... Local restaurant news is sponsored by Great Food Club

ENTROPY PRAISE JAMIE LOVES PADDY‘S The Good Food Guide says Popular backstreet Leicester Entropy is Leicestershire’s best restaurant Paddy’s Marten Dhaba restaurant. It was praised for a is featured with enthusiastic “focused approach, good endorsement in Jamie Oliver’s classical skills and quality new book Jamie’s Great Britain. ingredients”. Chef patron Tom Alongside a two-page Cockerill said the guide had photospread, the author says: recognised “our underlying “Paddy’s is a brilliant passion for quality”. Indian restaurant in a Entropy, 42 Hinckley lovely old pub. I loved Rd, Leicester LE3 everything I tried – 0RB, 0116 2259650, what a lovely place!” entropylife.com Oliver filmed with head chef Amita Mashru for STAR IS BORN the TV series The Star at accompanying the Thrussington in book. As Great Food Leicestershire has went to press, the re-opened after programme a major refurb and featuring Paddy’s a charity launch was expected to party headlined by be broadcast on Leicester City November 8 on manager Sven Channel 4. Jamie and the Goran Eriksson, Paddy’s Marten Paddy‘s team which raised over Dhaba, £2000. Chef 98 Martin St, Adam Barnacle is sourcing all Leicester LE4 6EU meat locally and is aiming to win 0116 2665123 CÉSAR FOR OLIVE BRANCH As well as retaining its Michelin Star for the tenth year, the Olive Branch of Clipsham, Rutland, has been awarded the Good Hotel Guide 2012 César Award for Best Restaurant With Rooms in the UK. Beech House opposite the Olive Branch contains the rooms that impressed inspectors, who described “a happy atmosphere where everything is well done.” Olive Branch, Main St, Clipsham, Rutland, LE15 7SH, 01780 410355, theolivebranchpub.com

62 Great Food Magazine

Kevin Preston (centre), manager of The Star, with Sven and Leicester City club ambassador Alan Birchenall

an AA rosette. On the menu are items such as roasted figs with Parma ham and dolcelatte, and slow-roast belly of pork with butterbean and chorizo risotto. The Star, The Green, Thrussington, LE7 4UH, 01664 424220, thestarinn1744.co.uk

GOOD PUB GUIDE SUCCESS Local pubs have gained plaudits in the 2012 Good Pub Guide. Here are the highlights...

THE CHEQUERS Country pub The Chequers Inn at Woolsthorpe-by-Belvoir is the Good Pub Guide 2012’s SANCTUARY Lincolnshire An experienced and Dining Pub of Sanctuary high-profile team has the Year. Its taken over The menu features Sanctuary in Upper starters such as Saxondale, Notts, English lobster and relaunched the risotto with restaurant with tarragon; mains fresh décor and a include briochenew chef. Co-owner Kerry Mathie crusted plaice with caper butter. earned her stripes running restaurants for Anthony Worrall BEAR BEST IN DERBYSHIRE Thompson. Leading the kitchen is The Bear in Alderwasley is Ian Lacey, previously of World Derbyshire’s Dining Pub of the Service and Langar Hall. The Year and the Good Pub Guide’s menu promises to focus on best overall East Midlands pub. seasonality and local produce. The Sanctuary, Westminster MARQUESS MAGIC Drive, Upper Saxondale The Marquess of Exeter in Notts NG12 2NL, Lyddington is Leicestershire and thesanctuaryrestaurant.co.uk Rutland’s Dining Pub of the Year, being described as “friendly with excellent food”. Elsewhere, The Falcon in Fotheringhay is the Guide’s Northants dining champ; and The Martins Arms in Colston Bassett is best food pub in Notts. PLOUGH SCORES HIGHLY A new entry in the Good Pub Guide is the Plough at Great Casterton near Stamford, which appears in the Editors’ Favourites section. The village pub is described as serving “carefully prepared, imaginative food”.

Restaurant profile

Rooftop Restaurant, RSC G

Stratford Upon Avon

A modern space offering a unique dining experience SPECIALITIES British seasonal menus; fresh fish; light dishes FOOD TIMES: Mon-Sat: 11.30-4.30pm and from 7.15pm; Sun: 12-4.30pm

alking by the north bank of the Avon as you approach the slender 36m tower of the Royal Shakespeare Company building is a curiously un-British experience. American accents and foreign languages are guaranteed, but the riverside walkway also creates a continental feel, especially when the sun shines on the barges lining the Avon. The Royal Shakespeare building was subject to a £113 million refurbishment between 2007 and 2010, getting a new Rooftop Restaurant and Bar in the process. Exiting the lift on the third floor and entering the restaurant is impressive. The space is bright and airy, with efficient staff waiting to seat you (booking is essential). Glass, crisp surfaces and exposed brickwork dominate, and there’s an unrestored wall left in place to add character – Manhattan loft conversion springs to mind. This is a tasteful, contemporary and sophisticated dining area that offers spectacular views of the river and town – the balcony running around the edge of the building provides a memorable place

AT FOOD RE

Restaurant TO

P R AT E

Sample menu Starters Pumpkin soup with Montgomery Cheddar and Basil, £5.95 Pigeon breast with black pudding and Herefordshire Russets, £6.95

Mains Market fish with steamed greens and Hollandaise, £15.95 Saddle of rabbit with spinach, morels, leeks and pea risotto cake, £16.95 Middle white pork fillet with fondant potato, roast pumpkin, brussels tops and bacon, £17.95

Desserts Paxton & Whitfield cheeses, £7 Plum frangipane, £6.95 Clotted cream and green figs, £6.95

to dine when weather allows. The Rooftop Restaurant is somewhere you’d want to visit even if you weren’t going to see a production in the theatre downstairs. The menus are thoroughly seasonal and very well thought out, with plenty of light options available that won’t induce doziness in the comfortable theatre seats. On our pre-matinee performance lunchtime visit, we chose a flavoursome butternut squash and

‘‘This is a tasteful, contemporary and sophisticated dining area that offers spectactular views of the river and town”

The RSC building was subject to a £113m refurbishment

FOOD AT THE RSC

The chefs at Stratford are committed to cooking with British seasonal ingredients and sourcing from local suppliers. For example, in November and December expect dishes that use beetroot, grouse, quince and chestnuts. Suppliers include Aubrey Allen butchers of Leamington Spa and Meg Rivers Bakery, Shipston-on-Stour.

sweetcorn risotto with Ticklemore cheese, and a superbly light pollock with blackstick (liquorice) that was very well cooked. Gazing out of the tall windows at the swans on the Avon, sipping a glass of Sancerre André Dezat, digesting your meal and looking forward to the performance is a wonderful experience. And as for the new 1000-capacity theatre (tickets range from £14 to £58) – it puts you right at the heart of the action. You won’t forget a day spent here in a hurry. Q Exposed brickwork adds to modern feel

Patinated central white wall with old seats attached are remnants of the building pre-restoration

CONTACT RSC Rooftop Restaurant, Waterside, Stratford CV37 6BB, 01789 403449, rsc.org.uk

Great Food Magazine 63

Restaurant map Some of the region’s best restaurants. This map is updated every issue – email your tips to editorial@greatfoodmag.co.uk Assiette Stamford PE9 2BE assietterestaurant.co.uk 01780 489071

Curry Lounge Nottingham NG1 6LF currylounge.co.uk 0115 9418844

Kilworth House Hotel North Kilworth LE17 6JE kilworthhouse.co.uk 01858 880058

Purnell’s Birmingham B3 2DH purnellsrestaurant.com 0121 2129799

Barnsdale Lodge Oakham LE15 8AH barnsdalelodge.co.uk 01572 724678

Entropy Leicester LE3 0RB entropylife.com 0116 2259650

Lake Isle Uppingham LE15 9PZ lakeisle.co.uk 01572 822951

The Red Lion East Haddon NN6 8BU redlioneasthaddon.co.uk 01604 770223

The Bay Tree Melbourne DE73 8HW baytreerestaurant.com 01332 863 358

The Falcon Fotheringhay PE8 5HZ thefalcon-inn.co.uk 01832 226254

Langar Hall Langar Village NG13 9HG langarhall.com 01949 860559

The Red Lion Stathern LE14 4HS theredlioninn.co.uk 01949 860868

Beckworth Emporium Mears Ashby NN6 0DL beckworthemporium.com 01604 812371

Firenze Kibworth Beauchamp LE8 0LN firenze.co.uk 0116 2796260

La Casa Loco Rugby CV21 3AW lacasaloco.co.uk 01788 565756

Restaurant Sat Bains Nottingham NG7 2SA restaurantsatbains.com 0115 9866566

The Bell Inn Stilton PE7 3RA thebellstilton.co.uk 01733 241066

Fischer’s at Baslow Hall Baslow DE45 1RR fischers-baslowhall.co.uk 01246 583259

Marquess of Exeter Lyddington LE15 9LT marquessexeter.co.uk 01572 822477

The Berkeley Arms Wymondham LE14 2AG theberkeleyarms.co.uk 01572 787587

The Gregory Harlaxton NG32 1AD thegregory.co.uk 01476 577076

Mallory Court Leamington Spa CV33 9QB mallory.co.uk 01926 330214

Rose & Crown Yardley Hastings, Northants NN7 1EX roseandcrownbistro.co.uk 01604 696276

Bobby’s Leicester LE4 5AT eatatbobbys.com 0116 2660106

Hambleton Hall Hambleton LE15 8TH hambletonhall.com 01572 756991

Boboli Kibworth Harcourt LE8 0NQ bobolirestaurant.co.uk 0116 2793303

San Carlo Leicester LE1 1DEL sancarlo.co.uk/leicester 0116 2519332

Hammer & Pincers Wymeswold LE12 6ST hammerandpincers.co.uk 01509 880735

Martin’s Arms Colston Bassett NG12 3FD themartinsarms.co.uk 01949 81361

Snooty Fox Lowick NN14 3BH thesnootyfoxlowick.com 01832 733434

The Boot Room Leicester LE1 5JN thebootroomeaterie.co.uk 0116 2622555

Hart’s Nottingham NG1 6GN hartsnottingham.co.uk 0115 9881900

Nevill Arms Medbourne LE16 8EE thenevillarms.net 01858 565288

Stapleford Park Stapleford LE14 2EF staplefordpark.com 01572 787000

Brownlow Arms Hough on the Hill NG32 2AZ thebrownlowarms.com 01400 250234

Hotel Maiyango Leicester LE1 4LD maiyango.com 0116 2518898

Northfield Farm Cold Overton LE7 3DB northfieldfarm.com 01664 474271

Three Horseshoes Breedon on the Hill DE73 8AN, 01332 695129 thehorseshoes.com

Caffe Italia (Bistro) Melton Mowbray LE13 0PN 01664 561 777 caffedeli-italia.co.uk

Jackson Stops Stretton LE15 7RA thejacksonstops.com 01780 410237

The Old Barn Inn Glooston LE16 7ST oldbarninn.co.uk 01858 545215

Tobie Norris Stamford PE9 2BE tobienorris.com 01780 753800

Chapel Bar & Dining Room 12 Oundle PE8 4EJ chapeldining.co.uk 01832 274730

Jim’s Yard 27 Stamford PE9 1PL jimsyard.biz 01780 756080

Olive Branch 42 Clipsham LE15 7SH theolivebranchpub.com 01780 410355

Turners 57 Harborne B17 9NS turnersofharborne.com 0121 4264440

Chequers Inn Woolsthorpe by Belvoir NG32 1LU, chequersinn.net 01476 870701

The Joiners Bruntingthorpe LE17 5QH thejoinersarms.co.uk 0116 2478258

Oundle Mill Oundle PE8 5PB oundlemill.co.uk 01832 272621

The White Hart Ufford PE9 3BH whitehartufford.co.uk 01780 740250

Chutney Ivy Leicester LE1 1TR chutneyivy.com 0116 2511889

The King’s Arms Wing LE15 8SE thekingsarms-wing.co.uk 01572 737634

The Pheasant Keyston PE28 0RE thepheasant-keyston.co.uk 01832 710241

The Woodhouse Woodhouse Eaves LE12 8RG thewoodhouse.co.uk 01509 890318

The Crown Inn Old Dalby LE14 3LF thecrownolddalby.co.uk 01664 823134

The King’s Head Wadenhoe PE8 5ST wadenhoekingshead.co.uk 01832 720024

The Plough Great Casterton PE9 4AA theplough-greatcasterton.co.uk 01780 762178

World Service Nottingham NG1 6AF worldservicerestaurant.com 0115 8475587

64 Great Food Magazine

Ashbourne

Simpsons Edgbaston B15 3DU simpsonsrestaurant.co.uk 0121 4543434

Bakewell

Mansion Derby DE1 2SN mansionderby.com 01332 343665

Burton

Staffs

Lichfield

46 52 57

Birmingham Solihull

Always check opening hours before setting off