2. Great Food Magazine Sept/Oct 2010

greatfood S E P T / O C T ‘10

www.greatfoodleics.co.uk

£ 3.20

Leicestershire & Rutland

Autumn’s harvest Food for mists and mellow fruitfulness

CELEBRATING THE BEST LOCAL FOOD & DRINK

JAMS AND PRESERVES Practical tips from Rosemary Jameson

RECIPE EXCLUSIVE

Northfield Farm’s award-winning pie

LOCAL CHEESES

ISSUE #2

Which will you nibble on this autumn?

£3.20

Fruity booze How to make the best use of hedgerow bounty

Phew, what a porker!

Rare-breed pigs frolic in Rutland

Great Taste Awards 2010

All Leicestershire & Rutland winners revealed

PACKED WITH SEASONAL RECIPES USING LOCAL PRODUCE

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Welcome

Putting together the second issue of Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland has been excellent fun. I’ve been having a great time tearing around the counties meeting producers, chefs, deli owners, readers and other foodie folk. My camera’s been snapping non-stop and the biggest challenge has been trying to squeeze all the harvested information into this September/October issue.

I’d like to thank all who’ve been in touch to offer encouragement and feedback after Issue One. It seems that word is getting out. We want Great Food to stay firmly in touch with readers and all involved in the local food and drink scene, so it’s really good to hear from everyone.

From now on you will start to see Great Food more often as it goes on sale in farm shops, delis and other fine establishments. Also, you may meet a few of the people behind the magazine – it’s not just me – because some of us will be at the food festivals at Rutland Water on September 18, and Brooksby Hall, October 2-3.

Enjoy this issue, and here’s to great local food. www.greatfoodleics.co.uk

Contents

NIBBLES 4 5 6 7 8 11

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GREAT FOOD LEICESTERSHIRE & RUTLAND IS BI-MONTHLY: NEXT ISSUE OUT NOVEMBER 1, 2010 COVER WATERCOLOUR: Apples by Graham Wright.

Your creations Northfield Farm pie recipe Try This! The best local products Rachel Green’s autumn sausages Eat This! Seasonal eating ideas Subscribe: Get a free gift

STARTER

12 What’s Cooking? Food and drink news 15 East Midlands Food Festival 2010 16 Fruity booze: Get picking and steeping

MAIN COURSE

20 22 23 24 27 28 30

Jam & preserves: By Rosemary Jameson Langton Brewery: Profile Quick drinks break Great Taste Awards 2010: Local winners Win a luxury stay at Whittlebury Hall Street Market Chefs: A new TV show Pigs in Rutland: You can rent one!

BACK FOR SECONDS 32 36 38 40

Editor

EDITOR: Matthew Wright ADVERTISING: BPG Ltd Julie Cousins – j.cousins@ bournepublishinggroup.co.uk 01780 766199 PUBLISHED BY: Rocco Media PRINTED BY: Warners CONTRIBUTORS: Matt Gregory, Emma Ansell, Jan McCourt, Rosemary Jameson, Tim Hart, Sarah Lyon, Sallie Hooper, Sean

Welcome

Patrick Whenham-Bossy Party bottles: Wine tips by Ben Robson Ultimate Cheeseboard: By The Olive Branch Muntjac’s back: Says Tim Hart

PUDDING 42 44 46 48 50 51

Danny Jimminson: Using blackberries Slow Food Page: By Sarah Lyon Restaurant review: Stapleford Park Pub reviews Leicestershire Food Links The Finch’s Arms

PETIT FOURS & COFFEE 52 54 56 58 60 61 62 64 66

Heritage apples Growing grapes: By Clive Simms Visit, Eat, Drink: Uppingham Pub walk: Medbourne and Hallaton Pub walk pubs: The Nevill & Bewicke Arms Events: Dates for your diary Farm Shop Map: Updated Community orchard & PYO Map Next issue: What’s coming up?

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 3

YOUR CREATIONS

Some great recipes to start your issue…

Catherine Ganda is a mum of four from Leicester who runs Little Rascals, a healthy-eating cookery school for children.

“I’m passionate about encouraging kids to eat healthy, locally-produced food,” says Catherine. “To inspire them, get them to help choose ingredients when out shopping. Go to a local market and let them enjoy the experience!

Sit them down with cook books to get new ideas. The more involved they are, the more likely they are to eat their packed lunch.”

Chicken & salsa wrap for little rascals’ lunchbags Enough for two lunches

* 2 tortilla wraps * 1 chicken breast * 31 tomatoes * 1/4 cucumber * 1/2 yellow pepper * /4 red onion (optional) * Squeeze of lime juice * 1 tbsp rapeseed oil * Salt and pepper to taste

{ } Where to buy?

Says Catherine: “I shop at farmers’ markets, get my eggs from Mill Farm, Gilmorton, and flour from Claybrooke Mill.”

USEFUL CONTACTS

Little Rascals, 0788 4495297, www.littlerascalscookeryschool.com Farm shops, map on p62 Farmers’ markets, listings on p61

Amanda Wrighton, 34, lives in Wimbledon, south London, but is a regular visitor to the village of Cosby, situated a few miles south of Leicester, where she stays with her in-laws. In Cosby she often joins her family at the ‘Bullies’ – The Bull’s Head – for a drop of Everards’ Tiger, or dines at The Middleton Restaurant, also in the village.

Amanda says: “This recipe idea came to me while eating wild boar and apple sausage rolls.

The venison and port combo works well together and venison is in season at the moment. It’s a good idea to make a large number of these as they make a great on-the-go snack.”

Venison & port sausage rolls Makes 8 rolls

* 150g venison * 75g streaky bacon * 75g minced pork * 60ml port * 3 tbsp Attfields tomato & garlic chutney

* 1 garlic clove * 5g fresh herbs like chives,

sage or thyme – whatever’s in the fridge or garden * 375g packet rolled pastry * Beaten egg * Salt & pepper

{ } Where to buy?

“When in Leicestershire I get a lot of ingredients from Attfields Farm Shop in Whetstone,” says Amanda. “Their chutney works really well in this recipe.”

4 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

1 Coat the chicken breast with rapeseed oil – always wash your hands after handling raw meat. Now heat a frying pan until fairly hot and, with the help of an adult, place the chicken breast flat onto the hot pan.

2 Cook for around four or five minutes each side, pressing down occasionally with a flat utensil. Check chicken is cooked by cutting open – it should be white all the way through.

3 Once the chicken has cooled, place onto a board, cut into thin strips and set aside.

4 Start to make the salsa by chopping the tomatoes into small pieces. Do the same with the pepper, cucumber and red onion (if using).

5 Put all the salsa ingredients into a bowl. Add rapeseed oil, salt, pepper, sugar and lime juice.

6 Stir and place a couple of dessert spoonfuls of salsa onto the flat tortilla. Add half the chicken and roll the tortilla up, tucking in the ends first.

7 Cut the wrap in half and either wrap in clingfilm or place the two halves into a plastic container, KNOW A small enough to fit into a GREAT RECIPE? lunchbag or box.

Don’t keep it to yourself. Email recipes@greatfood leics.co.uk. If it’s published you’ll win a year’s subscription 1 Heat oven to Gas 4 (180C).

2 Roughly chop venison and bacon: blitz in a processor with garlic, herbs and port.

3 Transfer to a bowl and add pork, chutney and seasoning. Use your hands to give it a good mix.

4 Pan-fry a teaspoon of filling to test seasoning, and add salt, pepper and chutney if needed.

5 Lay out pastry and cut in half along the longest length. Spread filling in the middle of each half; brush one length with beaten egg and fold, using the egg brushed end to seal.

6 Turn each roll over onto sealed side and cut into fours (or twos if you’re after giant rolls!) and gently make a few diagonal cuts in the middle. Brush with beaten egg.

7 Place on a greased baking tray and bake for 30 mins or until golden brown.

8 Serve hot with French beans tossed in garlic, olive oil and toasted pine nuts, or cold for packed lunches and picnics.

USEFUL CONTACT Attfields Farm Shop, Whetstone, Leicestershire, 0116 2771476, www.attfieldsfarmshop.co.uk

Pie recipe

Northfield Farm’s Apple & Blackberry Pie Wrap early autumn’s harvest in pastry and serve with cream Northfield Farm of Cold Overton on the Leicestershire/Rutland border can genuinely claim to make the best apple pie in Britain. Its exquisite Bramley and Cox creation scooped top prize in the fruit pie category at the British Pie Awards last May. Who better, then, than Ian Curtis, Northfield Farm’s pastry guru, to supply his recipe for delicious apple and blackberry pie?

This is the perfect autumn pud and great served with locally-produced cream.

Northfield’s pie-maker Ian Curtis.

Serves 4

* Pastry for 8-inch double-crust pie * 200g white sugar * 5 tsp tapioca flour or cornflour 1 * /2 tsp cinnamon * 280g blackberries * 225g apples – peeled, cored and sliced * 30g butter, cut into small pieces

1 Preheat oven to Gas 6 (200C).

2 Roll out pastry and line pie dish. Then roll and cut out pie lid and set aside.

3 In a large bowl, mix together the sugar, tapioca flour and cinnamon.

Add blackberries and apple slices.

Toss gently to coat without mashing the berries. Let stand aside for 20 minutes.

4 Spoon filling into pastry-lined dish. Dot with butter. Moisten the

edge of the pastry with water and cover with pastry lid. Trim and crimp edge, and make two steam slots in the lid. Brush with egg or milk and sprinkle with sugar.

5 Bake in preheated oven for 15 minutes. Remove pie from oven and sprinkle again with sugar.

6 Return pie to oven and reduce temperature to Gas 3 (170C). Bake for a further 25-30 minutes or until crust is golden brown.

“Northfield Farm can genuinely claim to make the best apple pie in Britain, so who better to supply this recipe?”

THANKS TO: Northfield Farm, Whissendine Lane, Cold Overton, Oakham, Rutland LE15 7QF, 01664 474271, www.northfieldfarm,com.

Pie copyright Northfield Farm!

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 5

Brownies from The Garage Deli

While interviewing residents of Uppingham, Rutland, for the feature on p56, The Garage Deli cropped up a few times. “Their brownies are to die for,” said one lady, so we thought we’d feature them here. Not because we wanted to eat them, you understand. Thanks to www.misspickering.com for the photo.

Contact: 01572 823247, www.garagedeli.co.uk

Bitter Sweet chilli & lime chocolates

PRICE: £1

PRICE: £2.80

Bitter Sweet from Breedon-onthe-Hill, Leics, uses Lubcloud cream and fruit from Scaddows Farm, Ticknall, to create its delicacies. Its chilli and lime choccies are incredibly moreish.

Contact: 07968 163706, www.bittersweetchocolates.co.uk

try this...

…amazing food – and it’s all made or grown in or very close to Leicestershire and Rutland

Manor Farm Thick & Creamy Probiotic yogurt

PRICE: £4.95

The Ringswood herd of British Friesians, who chew the cud near Lutterworth, are behind this ice cream.

Available in several flavours.

Contact: 01788 832188, www.ringswood.co.uk

This was crowned Best International New Dairy Product at the world-renowned 2010 Cheese Awards in Nantwich (see p13). It’s made in Thrussington. Manor Farm is too modest to do so, but it could with some justification call it the best yogurt in the world.

Contact: 01664 424245

PRICE: 45p

PRICE: £1.10

Maitake mushrooms

Farrington’s Mellow Yellow rapeseed oil

Rapeseed oil has a beautiful, nutty flavour, is low in saturated fats and high in Omega 3. You can use it for frying, marinating and in salad dressings, and lots of respected chefs are doing just that.

Farrington Oils is based over the border in Hargrave, Northants.

Contact: 01933 622809, www.farrington-oils.co.uk 6 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Ringswood real dairy ice cream

Exotic mushrooms in a local food magazine for Leicestershire & Rutland? Why? Well, because these – and a host of other outlandish and tasty fungi like enoki and buna shimeji – are grown at The Mushroom Basket in Packington, west Leicestershire. Maitake mushroom and bacon omelette, anyone?

Contact: 01530 415862, www.themushroombasket.com

PRICE: £12/kg

Sausage recipe

Rachel Green’s sausages with red cabbage and pears TV chef and farmer’s daughter Rachel Green is the Ambassador for Leicester Market and was a judge in the 2010 British Pie Awards, held in Melton Mowbray. Here’s one of her favourite autumn sausage recipes.

More on Rachel at www.rachel-green.co.uk.

6DXVDJHV

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We have ten copies of Rachel’s sausage cook book to give away.

To enter, either: 1) Go to www. greatfoodleics.co.uk and fill in the form.

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Serves 4

* 2 tbsp rapeseed oil * 55g butter * 1 onion, peeled and sliced * ô red cabbage, shredded, discarding the hard stalk

* 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed * 1 cinnamon stick * ô tsp ground cloves * 6 crushed coriander seeds * Pinch grated nutmeg * 2 tbsp soft light brown sugar * 3 tbsp red wine vinegar * 55g pitted prunes, finely diced * 2 pears, peeled, cored, cut into eighths * 2 tbsp port * Sea salt & black pepper * 8 good-quality pork sausages

1 Preheat the oven to Gas Mark 2 (150C) and preheat the grill.

2 Heat the rapeseed oil with the butter in a large ovenproof casserole dish, add the onions, cover and cook over a low heat until soft but not brown.

3 Add the shredded cabbage, garlic, cinnamon stick, cloves, coriander seeds, nutmeg, sugar and red wine vinegar and season well.

4 Cover the casserole with a tight lid and cook in the preheated oven for one hour, stirring occasionally.

5 Add the prunes, pears and port and cook for a further 45 minutes, adding a little water if the cabbage becomes dry.

6 Meanwhile, grill the sausages for 10–15 minutes, or until cooked. Take the cabbage out of the oven, adjust the seasoning and serve with the sausages.

Enjoy great food Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 7

Eat th is

September & October

The colours are changing and so’s the seasonal menu

W

hen conkers start to fall you know it’s out with the old and in with the new season. But October’s horse chestnut time, and before that we’ve got the transition month of September, with its often surprisingly warm sun. If it shines, take advantage – get out into the countryside, enjoy the ripe fruit on trees and hedgerows (p64), and sit in a pub garden or two (p60). First person to say “Indian summer” buys the first round.

By the time the World Conker Championships in Ashton near Oundle in Northamptonshire takes place on October 10, you’ll already have received

the slightly disconcerting promise of winter in the form of fallen leaves and beautiful shades of golden brown – especially stunning in Swithland Wood, Bradgate Park and along the tree-lined A606 opposite Rutland Water. It’s a bitter-sweet time of year.

Late-summer and autumn fruits (p16) dominate September and October in culinary terms – don’t forget to make jam (see our exclusive special offers on p11 and p23) – but the freshness in the air pushes brain, body and palate towards slowly cooked hot stews, nourishing soups, home-baked bread and robust red wines (p36). On October 1, pheasant, partridge and woodcock shooting begins, so dig out that game pie recipe.

Soon, Halloween will be upon us – time for pumpkins and pie-making – but before that consider an autumn trip to the seaside. Holkham beach in Norfolk is worth driving through the fens for.

Acres of yellow sand might put you in the mood for seafood – mussels, smoked mackerel or good old fish and chips.

FLOWER POWER...

Chrysanthemums flower in autumn – why not get a few to brighten things up?

Perfect in... September

Sweetcorn Fresh, tender corn on the cob with melted butter, a little salt and pinch of pepper – simple but heavenly. Great Food Fact: sweetcorn should be harvested when its kernel juice appears milky.

Freshness is the key

A type of maize, sweetcorn needs plenty of sun to grow properly and is ready here in September.

Britain’s the northern-most extremity of its global growing area, and corn does best in the south.

Once the cob’s been picked, sugar in the kernels starts to turn into starch, so sweetcorn cooked straight after picking is what you’re aiming for.

Some people grow sweetcorn locally on allotments and in gardens but we don’t believe there are any commercial producers in Leicestershire (if you know differently, please do let us know). The sweetcorn in local farm shops (see p62) is probably grown in southern England, on Barfoots Farm in West Sussex, for example (www.barfoots.co.uk).

{ } September is also good for all sorts of berries, wild mushrooms, swede, goose, tomatoes, rabbit, salmon, mussels, water celery and nasturtiums.

8 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Recipe: sweetcorn gratin 250ml milk; two cups of sweetcorn kernels; one cup of breadcrumbs; 1 pinch salt; 1 pinch pepper; 2 tbsp butter. Mix and place in oven-proof dish. Bake for half an hour at Gas 4 (180C). Add cheese, herbs and other seasonal vegetables for variety.

www.debbieboon.com

Juicy plums – ideal partners for Leics double cream.

Perfect in... September

Plums

SYSTON WHITE OR CLASSIC VICTORIA? The British plum and greengage season comes into its own in September. Dessert plums – Victorias, for example – are for eating straight out the fruit bowl, while cooking varieties like Marjorie’s Seedling are perfect for crumbles.

There are around 350 types of British plum, including Leicestershire’s ‘Syston White’.

RECIPE: PLUM CREAM PUDDING Serves 4. Poach eight pitted plums in 300ml of red wine until soft. Drain, reserving juice. Puree the fruit and add juice, 50g of caster sugar and two medium beaten eggs. Pour mixture into a saucepan and cook, while stirring, until slightly thickened. Remove from heat, add 50g almonds and juice of one lemon.

Stir. Pour into four serving dishes, allow to cool. Top with whipped Leicestershire cream.

{ } Greengages – basically green plums – are also in season in September. You can pick both plums and greengages at several local pick-your-own farms – check out the map on p64 for more information.

Perfect in... October

Beetroot

EARTHY, STAINY AND PURPLE. Beetroot is versatile and grows well in gardens or allotments – you can pickle it (check out Leicester-based www.driverspickles.co.uk), use in salads, incorporate into soups, even juice it.

It goes exceptionally well with goat’s cheese (see p38) and makes a good starter when combined with said cheese, plus leaves and an orange or balsamic dressing.

One of the best ways to enjoy beetroot, however, is to wash, halve, wrap in foil with some garlic cloves and a little butter, and bake.

Great with goat’s cheese.

Pumpkin

They’re not just for turning into Halloween horrors. With their slightly sweet taste, comfortingly soft texture and bright flesh, pumpkins and squashes are worthy kitchen companions. Slices roast in salt, pepper and rapeseed oil make a fine autumn accompaniment to your main course.

Pheasant

Prawns

TRY THE NATIVES. Prawns from UK waters are at their best right now.

Try the excellent fish section at Leicester Market (www.leicestermarket.co.uk) or visit fishmonger Scarborough Fair in Melton Mowbray.

{

October is also good for onions, chicory, red cabbage, leeks, parsnips, wild duck, partridge, chestnuts, apples, medlars, quince and eels.

}

RECIPE: PUMPKIN & STILTON PASTA Serves 4. Chop a pumpkin into one-inch chunks and roast for 30 minutes at Gas 6 (200C) with thyme, oil and brown sugar. Turn chunks often. Meanwhile, pour 300ml of double cream into a pan, add grated rind from a lemon, salt and pepper, and bring to boil over a low heat.

Simmer for five minutes. Remove from heat and add 250g of Blue Stilton and juice of lemon. Mix sauce and cooked pumpkin with 350g of drained pasta.

Shot from October 1 to February 1 in the UK.

THEY SHOULD BE HUNG. Pheasants, that is.

Opinion varies on how long a bird should be hung in order for its flavour to develop, but three-to-seven days in the open air at around 55 degrees Fahrenheit appears to be accepted by most. You can buy pheasant from your butcher, farm shop or certain supermarkets – you might want to ask where the bird you are buying came from. There are plenty of shoots in Leicestershire so why not buy locally?

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 9

Eat th is

September & October

YOUR FOOD & DRINK CALENDAR An intriguing selection of vaguely foodie events for your diary SEPT 4-5: Totally Tomato Show, West Dean, near Chichester Enter the Tastiest Tomato Contest or, if you’ve got big ones, the all-new Heaviest Tomato competition (www.west dean.org.uk/garden/ home.aspx)

SEPT 13: Conwy Honey Fair North Wales fair with 700-year history.

TEISEN FÊL (HONEY FRUIT CAKE) * 86g caster sugar * 113g margarine * 2 tsp mixed spice * 2 eggs * 170g plain flour * 113g honey * 454g mixed fruit, no cherries * 1 tsp baking powder * Pinch salt * 1/2 tsp lemon juice * Milk as necessary Cream sugar, margarine and honey.

Sieve flour, baking powder and spice and add with egg to mixture. Add fruit, lemon juice and enough milk to make soft consistency. Place in 7-inch baking tin lined with greaseproof paper. Bake at Gas 4 (180C) for an hour. Recipe from www.conwybeekeepers.org.uk.

SEPT 11-12: The First British Street Food Awards

SEPT 11: Fishstock, Brixham, Devon

Held in Ludlow, Shropshire, this new event celebrates top-quality chip vans and street-corner sausage-fryers – stars of the mobile food world who do it well. We'll reveal the results next issue (www.britishstreetfood.co.uk).

Seafood and music festival. (www.fishstockbrixham.co.uk).

SEPT 23: Autumnal Equinox

SEPT 29: Michaelmas Day

OCTOBER 2: Gandhi Jayanti

Christian feast of St Michael the Archangel and traditionally a day to eat goose. In fact, Michaelmas was sometimes referred to as Goose Day.

Indian National Holiday marking the birthday of Mahatma Gandhi. A very good day to eat a vegetarian curry – try Bobby's on Belgrave Road in Leicester.

OCTOBER 28: Punkie Night, Somerset

OCTOBER 31: Clocks go back and Halloween

Day and night now of equal length.

Stiff drink time.

OCTOBER 24: October Plenty Theatrical harvest festival event on Bankside, London, near Shakespeare's Globe Theatre.

Odd tradition where children carry lanterns through the village of Hinton St George.

Either a bit Wicker Man or cute, depending on your view.

For your full Leicestershire & Rutland-focused food events diary, turn to p61

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FREE JAM-MAKER’S JOURNAL WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE! Every issue of Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland delivered to your door for one year, plus The Jam Maker’s Journal (worth £10), all for just £19.20

GET INTO A PICKLE...

The perfect present for preservers, this brand new 160-page journal from The Jam Jar Shop contains the following:

* Practical jam-making tips * All in a fantastic ring-binder, printed THE * Step-by-step guides JOURNAL’S on thick paper RECOMMENDED * Conversion charts RETAIL PRICE: * 54 jam jar * Seasonal jam, jelly and relish recipes

label stickers

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WHY SUBSCRIBE? As well as getting this great gift, you’ll also be able to look

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Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 11

What’s

Cooking?

EDITED BY: MATTHEW WRIGHT

“This is big news for both the Grainstore and the area” – Peter Atkinson, Grainstore Brewery, Oakham

Small JAM IN THE SUN Unlikeliest Story Award goes to Rutland-based Jam Jar Shop, which recently had ex-Sun editor Kelvin MacKenzie on the phone ordering jars for his raspberry jam.

“I’ve found the Jam Jar Shop,” wrote Kelvin in his Sun column, before advising readers to try his “marvellous” blackberry jam. For a special offer on jammaking kit, turn to p23. www.jamjarshop.com

TUCK INTO TAPAS Nick’s in Oakham has launched a Tuesday Tapas Night. Gambas al ajillo (shrimps in garlic) and sardines a la plancha are proving popular.

To book and take advantage of a special offer, call 01572 723199. www.nicksrestaurant.co.uk

NEW FARMERS’ MARKET A new farmers’ market is coming to Uppingham, Rutland. It will be held on the first Saturday of each month in Market Place. The farmers’ market that takes place in Uppingham on the second Friday of each month will continue to run.

RUTLAND BITTER IS RESURRECTED Grainstore to brew protected beer

D

rinkers will soon once again be able to quaff Rutland Bitter – a 3.4% IPA-style beer of Protected Geographical Indication (PGI). Oakham’s Grainstore Brewery will produce and sell the beer, which can only be brewed in Rutland and must be made to a traditional recipe using water from Rutland Water.

Tony Davis, director of the Grainstore and ex-head brewer at Ruddles, will launch Rutland Bitter on October 2 at the East Midlands Food Festival at Brooksby, Melton.

Tony started the process of gaining permission to brew Rutland Bitter in July 1998.

Rutland Bitter has been around for some time. Ruddles, which ran its Langham brewery

from 1858 to 1999, first brewed a ‘Rutland’ bitter in 1964. Later, Ruddles secured PGI status for its brew but was taken over in 1986, which led to the closure of the Langham brewery. Since the closure, Rutland Bitter has not been brewed because it must be produced, processed or prepared in the designated geographical area. Grainstore has now seized the opportunity to brew Rutland Bitter.

There are 37 UK Protected Food Names, including two other beers: Kentish Ale (Spitfire) and Kentish Strong Ale (Bishop’s Finger).

ACCREDITATION SCHEME

Genuine farm shops to get special label Market Place, Uppingham.

RAGDALE WINNER Lisa Ann McLean of Market Harborough is the winner of last issue’s Ragdale Hall competition.

Turn to p27 for another prize draw.

12 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

The National Farmers’ Retail & Markets Association has launched a verification scheme to give consumers greater clarity around what they buy.

Farm shops that sell produce they’ve grown, reared or made can apply for GO! (Genuine Own) or GOAL! (Genuine Own

And Local) logos to differentiate themselves. Accreditation costs from £100 a year.

Milly Stokes from Farndon Fields Farm Shop, Market Harborough, said: “It’s a great idea. We grow and sell our own veg and fruit – this will help people identify real farm shops.”

Farndon Fields grows much of the food it sells.

Local food news

In the Kitchen LOCAL YOGURT CROWNED

Peter Holmes with his awards.

MANOR FARM BEATS THE BIG CHEESES

DELI

THE WALTHAM DELI, WALTHAM-ON-THE-WOLDS

“Not in wildest dreams” win for small producer

P

eter Holmes of Manor Farm has grabbed Leics headlines at the International Cheese Awards in Nantwich.

Manor Farm, which has made yogurt in Thrussington for 32 years, won Best International New Dairy Product for its Thick & Creamy Probiotic Yogurt. Its cream also won prestigious awards.

Beating off competition from dairy giants, the win represents spectacular success for Peter, who operates with one pasteurising vat next to the farm kitchen and a small herd British Friesians.

“We milk at 5am, it’s in the vat by 7am and the yoghurt’s ready next day,” said Peter. “We couldn’t have dreamt of this win.” You can buy the champion yogurt at many farm shops (see p62).

Jo Clarke of Leics Handmade Cheese Company.

More local success

Peter Holmes

{ }

food and fine drink at Wing over the coming months.”

Ryan and Lyndon are on the hunt for local food and drink suppliers and for frontof-house and kitchen staff.

More at www.winghall.co.uk or call 01572 737090.

Small but perfectly formed Waltham Deli near Melton Mowbray in north-east Leicestershire is a busy, friendly shop selling highquality local produce. Waltham’s 900 or so residents are rather lucky to have this place. On tap are olives, sun-dried tomatoes, jams, fine wines, flour from Whissendine Windmill, meat from Grasmere Farm and a selection of lunchtime rolls using fresh, local breads. A top place to satisfy gourmet cravings.

Waltham Deli, 21 High St, Waltham, Leics LE18 3SH, 01664 464099, www.walthamdeli.co.uk

CAFÉ & FARM SHOP OAKDALE FARM SHOP & TEA ROOMS, REARSBY

Oakdale has made a huge effort in a short amount of time to create something special in Rearsby. The new cafe is comfortable and spacious, the shop well-stocked, and plans are afoot for an area for plants and flowers. The tiny horses (can they really be that small?) and goats are part of the experience.

Oakdale also holds one-off themed food evenings, such as its well-attended recent Italian night.

Oakdale Farm Shop & Tea Room, 1870 Melton Road, Rearsby, Leics LE7 4YS, 01664 424300

The Clawson team, l-r: Tracey Blades, Janice Breedon, Annie Blissett, Simon Harby, Zaib Hussain.

Wing Hall’s new role W

{ } “We couldn’t have dreamt of winning these awards. We only entered because we thought we may as well give it a go.”

There were also wins for Cropwell Bishop Creamery, which took Best Stilton. Long Clawson claimed Best Organic Cheese; Leics Handmade Cheese Co. won Best Territorial Cheese for Sparkenhoe Leicester; Quenby Hall won medals for its Blue Stilton.

Ex-Corrie star Sean Wilson is now a cheesemaker.

ing Hall in the village of Wing, Rutland, is installing new kitchens and plans to host an array of foodie events, including cookery courses. The family-owned Victorian country house, built in 1891, is to become a specialist venue for happenings like weddings, parties and functions.

Food and drink are already an important part of the Hall, which has an on-site cafe, bar and farm shop specialising in local produce – including free-range eggs from its own hens.

Driving foodie events at Wing Hall are Lyndon Worrall and Ryan Clement, who together run catering company Clement Worrall.

“We’re excited about holding more events at Wing Hall because it’s such an individual place,” said Ryan. “We love putting on tailored parties and expect to oversee lots of good times, great

Foodie places

“At Wing Hall we’ve got fishing lakes, a café and a farm shop. As an events venue it’s a bit different and very individual.”

Ryan Clement

Food is top of the agenda at Wing Hall.

FARM SHOP & RESTAURANT

STAMFORD GARDEN KITCHEN & FARM SHOP Stamford Garden Kitchen and Farm Shop is becoming a real food-lover’s paradise.

On-site is a garden centre, farm shop selling locallysourced produce, and café/restaurant where everything served is homemade and you can grab lunch and a drink for under £10. Lamb is sourced from Stamford, eggs and beef from Great Casterton. Owner James Lamb now plans to introduce a growing area to supply the kitchen with veg.

Stamford Garden Kitchen & Farm Shop, Road End Farm, Stamford PE9 4BB, 01780 765656, www.stamfordgardencentre.co.uk

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 13

What’s

Cooking?

LOCAL SCHOOLS GET Rocco Recommends CHOPPING AND BAKING “Excellent pubs that let me in”

THE QUEEN’S HEAD, BELTON “OK, OK, if you insist. Woof.

There. Is that better?

Thinking in doggy language now? Good...

So, The Queen’s Head in Belton... hmmm... leather sofas, modern decor, modern British menu. Just the sort of place for a Jack Russell in 2010, actually. Pork belly with champ? I’ll behave for that. My owners are allowed to eat in the bar when I’m present, although dining with them is embarrassing – table manners aren’t their strong point.

The garden looks awfully nice – I really must be careful where I lift my leg.”

Competition promotes healthy eating and local food

L

ocal school children have been getting creative in the kitchen as part of an educational food-based challenge.

The Dig Your Dinner final took place at Barnsdale Lodge on July 13 and was won by a team of children from Whissendine Primary School and Catmose Community College.

The challenge, organised by Education Business Partnership, involved secondary schools – Casterton College, Uppingham Community College and Catmose – teaming up with primaries – Whissendine, Leighfield and St Mary & St John North Luffenham.

The younger children devised healthy, balanced menus – starters, mains and puddings – making use of local produce, grown at home where possible. The older children selected the best and helped to create and cook them.

ONE OF THE WINNING RECIPES

Cheesy berry chicken * 1 free-range chicken breast * 2 rashers back bacon

The Queen’s Head, 2 Long St, Belton, Lough’boro LE12 9TP, 01530 222359, www.thequeenshead.org

Our noble Chippies…

THE BATTER OF BOSWORTH, MARKET BOSWORTH Placed second in The Independent newspaper’s guide to the best fish and chip shops in Britain, The Batter of Bosworth has quite a rep to uphold. It’s won a shoal of other gongs, too. Owner Steve Stylianou (pictured below) is justifiably proud. Gluten-free fish and chips are now on the menu.

The Batter of Bosworth, 29 Station Road, Market Bosworth CV13 0JS, 01455 290025

14 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Sean Hope (pictured above) from the Olive Branch, Clipsham, was on hand to cook and offer advice to the children. The judges were Jan McCourt of Northfield Farm, Alison Pratt of the NFU and Jane Hales of Barnsdale Lodge. Below is a recipe from Whissendine’s winning menu.

* 85g Wensleydale with cranberries * Sprig of fresh, chopped basil

1 Preheat oven to Gas 6 (200C).

2 Cut lengthways through chicken breast to make an envelope. Stuff with basil and cheese.

3 Wrap bacon rashers around cheese-filled chicken and secure with a cocktail stick.

4 Place in oven and cook for 20-25 minutes or until cooked through.

5 Serve with purple sprouting broccoli, boiled new potatoes, honey-glazed carrots and, if you are old enough, a glass of crisp, white wine.

From loo to cordon bleu L

ike a fresh, green lettuce rising through the mud, a shop selling locally-grown fruit and vegetables has sprung up on the site of a derelict former public toilet in Church Passage, Oakham, Rutland.

Called Out Of The Rut and open Monday to Saturday, 8.30am-4.30pm, the shop is the product of a jointly-funded partnership between a social enterprise – also called Out Of The Rut – and Rutland County Council.

The new shop sells produce grown mainly on land near Out Of The Rut’s headquarters in Lyndon, Rutland.

“We’ve only been open for a few weeks but demand for our fruit and veg has been amazing,” said shop manager and former lawyer Trish Hudson.

“People are incredibly committed to buying local

produce, which is great to see.

We feel we’re doing something really positive here, so we’d encourage people to come along to support the shop and check out the very reasonable prices.”

Out Of The Rut was set up in 2006 and exists to help people with disabilities get back into work and society by providing training and experience. Some of its other projects include growing grass and seed mixes, conservation work and producing bird boxes. www.outoftherut.co.uk

STOP PRESS… Lop update!

Last issue we revealed 16 rare British Lop pigs had been born at Northfield Farm, Cold Overton, and promised an update.

There are 13 remaining and thriving (nine are pictured – they’re the pink ones!).

Local food news

{ } “This Caribbean stand belongs to my boss Ruben Bell. We’ve been at Leicester Market for around four years and really enjoy it here.”

Andrew Muzira

MARKET SELLER

PLEASING PLANTAINS Leicester Market is located slap bang in the city centre, and is one of the biggest and best in Europe. Here Andrew Muzira from Leicester is pictured looking after a stall selling Caribbean and South American delights, including plantains, cassava, ginger and sweet potato. Why not check out Leicester Market and pay Andrew a visit?

ARE YOU READY FOR AN Don’t miss...

EAST MIDLANDS FEAST? LEICESTERSHIRE FOOD FORTNIGHT

Mmmm, there’s something tasty cooking… it’s the East Midlands Food & Drink Festival

T

he East Midlands Food and Drink Festival takes place at Brooksby Hall, Melton Mowbray, on Saturday October 2 and Sunday October 3. It will feature a smorgasbord of demos by chefs. Big names include Lincs lass Rachel Green (see p7), Leicester’s Lucy Cufflin – author of a fab new cook book called Lucy’s Food – ‘food archaeologist’ Alan Coxon, Melton Mowbray’s master pie baker Stephen Hallam and pro home economist Teresa Bovey.

But it’s not all about watching other people – there’s plenty to get stuck into, including tastings, chatting with local producers and free hands-on activities. Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland will have a stand, so do come and share a pork pie with us!

Tickets will be £6 on the door, with under 16s free. More information at www.eastmidlandsfoodfestival.co.uk.

Food, fun and cauliflowers at last year’s festival.

WIN TICKETS AND A HAMPER! We’ve got five pairs of festival tickets and a ‘Flavour of Melton’ hamper to give away. To enter, send a postcard with your name, address, phone no. and email address to Festival Comp, Great Food, 7 Victoria St, Melton Mowbray, Leics LE13 0AR. Or enter at www.greatfoodleics.co.uk. Full terms and conditions are on our website.

(DVW 0LGODQGV IRRG GULQN

festival

Leicestershire Food Fortnight 2010 runs from September 18 to October 3. The fortnight consists of more than 70 events devoted to fine local produce. For more information, including a free brochure, visit www.goleicestershire.com/ foodfortnight or call 0844 8885181.

More info also on pages 51 and 61.

Pictured above is a Quorn Bacon Roll – a savoury suet pudding with bacon, onion and herbs. Quorn Bacon Roll Day takes place at the Quorn Exchange Restaurant in Quorn on September 29.

WINTER FOOD FESTIVAL Taking place on Nov 21 at Leicester Market, there will be a distinctly festive feel to this event. It’ll be here before you know it! Call 0116 2232371, www.leicestermarket.co.uk

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 15

FRUITY BOOZE

Hip flasks & walking st

“Searching along footpaths for those dark , jewel-like berries defines All watercolours in this feature by Graham Wright.

16 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Sloe gin

g sticks

What’s more life-affirming than a nip of homemade sloe gin on a frosty morning? Plan your plucking and steeping now to reap rewards later, says Matt Gregory

A

dram of sloe gin is the very essence of an autumn afternoon’s foraging. It may be from last year’s crop, or of even older vintage, but that bittersweet, intense tang encapsulates the feeling of mellow fruitfulness.

Searching along footpaths for those dark, jewel-like berries, minute droplets of autumn dew on their skin, feeling the comforting weight of a hip flask in your pocket – all this defines the beginning of the new season.

Preserving fruit in alcohol was originally intended as a method of saving some of the glut. It was very quickly worked out that although the fruits were indeed very nice when days were short, they weren’t half so nice as the liquid that had been preserving them. So make a tipsy crumble with the leftovers by all means, but it’s the transformed spirit that will warm your soul, especially on cold winter days.

(a proper, curved-handled one) is most useful as almost all the fruit you’ll find will be just a tad too high, a touch too far over a fence, behind something prickly and generally a bit inaccessible.

Traditionally you would wait until after the first frost to harvest sloe berries, which means the fruit will be properly ripe from a long hang time on the bush, and the cold will have begun to break down the cellular structure of the berry. If you can guarantee the sloes will still be there, by all means Explore footpaths and lanes to find fruit.

Sloe gin So hip flasks at the ready, where do you start? From the beginning of September onwards, keep an eye on the hedgerows, as competition from both your fellow man and wild beasties for the ripest fruit will be extremely fierce. As well as a full hip flask, you’ll need your wellies, a walking stick and a basket. The stick Traditionally you pick sloes after the first frost, but will there be any left?

the new season”

Sloe food

You can also use sloes to make jam, and in northern Spain they are used – with coffee beans and vanilla pods – to make a liqueur called Patxaran.

Blackberries Good in pie – see page 5.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 17

FRUITY BOOZE Drink enough quince brandy and you might put a hat on your bottle, too.

Hawthorn – you can eat its leaf shoots in spring.

Quince An autumn fruit with many culinary uses, quinces were used to make marmalade in Britain in the 18th and 19th centuries.

leave it this long, otherwise pick them as late as you dare.

Like a grape, the colour of a sloe is all in the skin, so to get a deeply-coloured gin, that skin must be broken. This can be done laboriously with a pin, traditionally with a blackthorn, or simply by freezing and thawing them so the skin splits naturally.

There are two main bones of contention concerning the processing of the split fruit, the main one being

covered in sugar to ferment and create more complex flavours: this requires rigorous cleanliness of all the equipment, as there is the danger of unwanted bacteria multiplying in the sugar-covered fruit. The process is to fully coat and cover the split fruit with sugar, usually about half the weight of the fruit, and leave in a covered container for as much as a month to ferment. The fruit is then covered in gin in the normal way. This method

with if you go down the maceration route. You could use none at all if you fancy a really dry version!

Experiment with different methods until you find the one that best suits you, then you too can argue with the best of them about the proper way to make sloe gin. Whichever method you choose, put the fruit in a widenecked jar rather than a bottle for the period of steeping – it will be significantly easier to decant later –

how much sugar to use (opinion varies from almost none to as much as twice the weight of fruit), and the other on whether to macerate (meaning to soften or break up) the fruit first or not.

Those in the maceration camp advocate a period with the fruit

definitely produces a gin with more depth of flavour, but not of pure fruit flavour. Sloe gin made with macerated fruit is characterised by a more almondy, nutty aroma, and fuller feel on the palate.

Sugar ratios cause big debate, but really you have to follow your own taste. Sugar will add little to the development of flavour, so can always be introduced after steeping of the fruit has finished, and added incrementally to reach the sweetness that best suits you.

Half as much sugar as fruit is a good place to start for the period of steeping, and is about as little as you get away

and make sure everything is good and clean. Three-quarter fill the jars with the sloes, add sugar (half the weight of sloes for a first try, or have different ratios if you have more then one jar for steeping) and top up with gin. Put the jars in a cool, dark place to mature (exposure to light will make for a paler, browner drink), and shake every day for the first week, and occasionally thereafter for a couple of months.

Reserve the original bottles for decanting back into before serving.

The longer it is left the more married and harmonious the flavours will become, and it will keep indefinitely once taken off the fruit. Realistically

“ The longer it’s left the more harmonious the flavours will become”

Rose hip You get a delicate flavour from rose hips.

Ripeness timeline... when they’re ready to pick Blackberry AUG-EARLY OCT

Crabapple JULY-DEC

Medlar

LATE OCT-NOV

Chestnut OCT-DEC

Quince OCT-DEC

Plum

The quintessential hedgerow berry: fabulous mixed with other fruits to give vodka colour and oomph.

Highly acidic, diminutive apple that ideally needs blending with some soft fruit. Traditionally used to make jelly.

AKA ‘Dogs’ Bums’ – rock hard until mid-winter, but you can freeze and thaw them to soften.

Roast and chopped into dark rum with very little sugar makes for super winter digestive.

Will be ripe on the tree over the whole season. These hard, pear-like fruits work best with brandy.

Ideally leave until after the first frost, but mid-late Sept will suffice.

18 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

AUG-OCT

Visit, eat, drink 1

3

2

4

Step-by-step guide 1 Put your fruit in a wide-necked jar.

2 If you choose to macerate, cover with sugar (half the weight of the fruit is a good place to start).

3 Cover with your chosen spirit; shake

every day for a week and occasionally thereafter for a couple of months.

4 A magical fusing of alcohol and fruit will take place, resulting in delicious boozy goodness.

you can look forward to drinking it this coming Christmas. From a hip flask while outside on a frosty morning is the perfect way to partake, but out of wide shot glasses in front of the fire is good too. Over ice and topped with Tonic, it makes an excellent long drink.

Although sloe gin is the defining beverage, recipes can be adapted for most stone fruit and berries, and all work exceptionally well with vodka as the base spirit. Made with vodka, the drink has a pure fruit quality unmasked by gin’s botanical flavourings.

Elderberries Used to make a variety of drinks.

Quince brandy If you are lucky enough to have access to some quince, then an excellent alternative to cooking with them is to steep them in brandy. Cut the quince into quite small pieces and dowse in lemon juice – this prevents the flesh oxidising and colouring the brandy, and also adds a bit of zip to the flavour.

Pop into wide-necked jars, add a quarter of the weight of fruit in sugar, and cover with brandy. Seal the jars and shake until the sugar is dissolved.

Leave in a cool, dark place until Christmas, shaking every day for the first week or so, and occasionally thereafter. The finished drink is a rather excellent digestive.

Cheaty autumn liqueur If you don’t have time, or access to fruits, you can cheat. It is still fairly hands-on, and you still make it

yourself, so the quiet feeling of self satisfaction remains. Some farm shops (see p62) and supermarkets sell mixed frozen ‘fruits of the forest’, which combines redcurrants, blackcurrants, blackberries and others in variable quantities. Simply half fill an empty bottle with the frozen fruit and top up with the spirit of your choice. Fill the now half-empty bottle of spirit with frozen fruit. Sugar can be added to taste. Shake both bottles and leave for as long as you can to steep. Try to leave them at least a week!

Notes on alcohols Cheap gin uses synthetic botanical flavourings. Why collect fruit only to mask it with ‘juniper flavour’? If wellmade gin is out of budget, then cheap vodka is a much better bet. Steeping fruit is not fermenting, so alcohol content does not increase. You have, in fact, diluted the spirit with berry juice and sugar, so the end product can be as little as half the strength of the base spirit.

Good books Preserved, by Nick Sandler and Johnny Acton.

River Cottage Cook Book, by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.

Food For Free,

by Richard Mabey.

Food From Your Garden, various contributors, Reader’s Digest.

Website: National Fruit Collection, Brogdale Farm: www.nationalfruit collection.org.uk

Hawberries Said to have healthgiving properties.

Rose hip LATE AUG-NOV

Haw OCT-NOV

Elderberry Bilberry Raspberry Dewberry AUG TO OCT

SEPT

JULY-SEPT

AUG- EARLY OCT

The seed pod from summer roses will need to be carefully deseeded before boiling with a little water.

Available all autumn, pick when bright red and treat exactly like sloes.

Elderberries work best with vodka or gin. Make sure you de-stalk as much as possible to get the pure berry flavour.

If you find them locally you are very lucky. Like a blueberry but juicier and sweeter.

Last ones are left in September, and superb mixed with other soft fruits for background sweetness and colour.

Low-growing bramble with a downy bloom on the berries. Like a blackberry but tarter and softer in texture.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 19

JAM AND PRESERVE-MAKING Rosemary Jameson Rosemary is utterly passionate about jam.

She owns the Jam Jar Shop (www.jamjarshop.com) in Oakham and founded the Guild of Jam and Preserve Makers.

Join the JAMPAIGN! Join the Campaign For Real Jam (JAMPAIGN) and refuse to settle for processed pap, says Rosemary Jameson

W

e are going to start a campaign. A Campaign for Real Jam. JAMPAIGN! How many times have you been into a tearoom or hotel and offered a choice of tea, a choice of coffee, often with extensive details of their provenance? You are plied with wonderful homemade bread, scones and cakes; local, handcrafted cheeses... and then out comes a container of ‘plastic’ jam or chutney.

My husband and I recently went to a very high-class local hotel to enjoy a cream tea – purely for research, you understand – and that was exactly the scenario. Beautiful food made right there in the hotel, a choice of tea – and a

Find, swap, make jam and friends

sickly, bright red jelly/jam that tasted of absolutely nothing.

We were then relieved of £35 for the privilege.

We are very good at jam-making and preserving in this country – it is part of our heritage and it’s time we started demanding not just proper jam with our food but a choice of flavours. Plus information on the ingredients and where have they been grown. Not some nasty little plastic pot with a measured serving of jellied pulp.

If you have enjoyed a tea-time treat locally then let us know so we can applaud the establishment. If not, start demanding better quality and more choice, refuse to settle for processed pap!

Look out now for apples, crabapples, rose hips, sloes, elderberries - and start thinking about making your mincemeat ready for Christmas. If you have abundant crops and could share the spare, go to www.swapcrop.co.uk and have your excess harvest turned into jams and preserves by an enthusiastic jam-nut - you won’t waste the produce, you’ll gain some jams and chutneys and probably a new friend as well.

No money is to change hands.

20 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Piccalilli recipe Piccalilli * 3kg mixed veg – courgettes, cucumber,

cauliflower, green beans, onions (3kg is the prepared weight) * Generous amounts of salt * 275g granulated sugar * 1 level tbsp mustard powder * 1.5 level tsps ground ginger * 2 garlic cloves, skinned and crushed * 1.5 litres distilled vinegar * 50g plain flour * 2 level tbsp turmeric

LO JAM-MAVE CHECK KING? THE EX OUT READE CLUSIVE RO OVER T FFER H PAGE E

1 Prepare all vegetables by cutting into bite-sized pieces (1cm square), layering into a large bowl, sprinkling with salt as you go.

2 Leave to one side, covered, preferably overnight.

3 Remove vegetables and rinse, drain well.

4 Blend sugar, mustard, ginger and garlic with 1 litre of vinegar in a large pan. Add the vegetables and bring to the boil – turn down the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes until the vegetables are cooked but still crisp.

5 Blend flour and turmeric with the remaining vinegar and stir into the cooked vegetables. Bring to the boil and cook for two minutes until thickened.

6 Spoon into washed, pre-heated jars and seal immediately with vinegar-proof lids.

7 Serve with fresh bread, good cheese, a great pint and a cricket match.

Salt and vinegar Autumn – traditionally the pickling season – is upon us. Everything that can be preserved in this way pretty much ripens now – it is one big harvest festival. I recently went to a little local show with my wares to sell, and while there found a gem of a book. It is called Home Pickling and written by none other than Henry Sarson himself. I would like to share the dedication on the first page of the book with you: “To all those housewives who have forgotten or never knew how to make pickles like mother used to make; to the enthusiastic diggers of allotments whose surplus onions lie rotting in a corner of the toolshed; to affluent owners of greenhouses whose final crop of tomatoes the fickle English sun failed to ripen; or to anyone else interested in preserving food from waste and in varying its monotony, this book is dedicated.” Sound familiar? Well, it was written in 1949!

It is only a slim volume but packs more information into its austere black and white pages than a whole host of modern full-colour cookery books. It is always worth looking out for books of this type as with preserving, almost uniquely, nothing changes much over the years.

Essentially, to make good pickles, the acidic strength of the vinegar being used must be maintained so the bacteria, yeasts and moulds

Perfect with cheese, bread, beer and cricket.

Join the Guild

If you love jam-making or want to get into it, why not join the Guild of Jam and Preserve Makers? Details at www.jamguild.com or call 0844 8040854. Join and build a community to provide a cohesive ‘voice’, share ideas and experiences, and gain knowledge.

Written by vinegar king Henry Sarson.

that spoil food cannot grow. The minimum strength of commercial vinegar is 4% and just knowing this simple fact can transform our pickling failures into success. If, for example, you pickle some cucumber and place the sliced fruit in a jar and top up with vinegar, the final strength of the vinegar will be around 2%. This is because the jar is more than half full of cucumber, which has a 95% water content and so dilutes the vinegar, rendering it ineffectual as a preservative. So, the second prong of attack in pickling is that other great preservative – salt.

By removing most of the water content of the fruit or veg you are pickling with salt, the strength of the vinegar will be retained and the pickling process safe. There are a couple of methods – wet brine or dry salting. I prefer the latter, but you will find instructions for either in any good book on preserving. The key to success is understanding why this needs to be done. Like most things in life, it’s easy when you know how. The Piccalilli recipe above is one of my favourite recipes for one of the most English of pickles.

GET OUT AND ABOUT

Local jam-making courses We’re now running jam and preserve-making courses at our newly refurbished base, The Old Smithy, Burley, Oakham.

Come along and learn some of the techniques for preserving imaginatively. Not just jam, but chutney, mustard, mincemeat, lemon curd, sauces, marmalade and fruit vinegars. Details at www.jamjarshop.com or call 01572 720720.

Local jams and more...

Billesdon Farmers’ Market will be held on Sunday, October 3,

in the car park of the Coplow Centre, Billesdon. It’s organised by the Billesdon Sustainable Group. All local produce will be well represented – this is well worth a visit. Call Fiona White on 0116 2596872 or turn to p61 for more details.

The WI Real Jam Festival Denman College in Abingdon, Oxfordshire, will host what’s believed to be Britain’s first festival dedicated to jam on November 20-21, 2010. It’s a great place to meet, greet and

The joy of pickle.

learn more. More info at www.thewirealjamfestival.com, 01865 391991.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 21

LOCAL PRODUCER

Genius in a shed

Give two men half a barn and some battered kit. Add passion and skill. The result is Langton Brewery, says Matt Gregory ARTICLE & PHOTOS: MATT GREGORY

T

ouring Europe, particularly Italy, looking for inspiring wines made by interesting people has led me to visit many small producers. Most of these artisans make tiny volumes, usually from their own vines and more often than not in glorified sheds. The romance of this is inescapable: the idea of horny-handed sons of the soil ploughing a furrow all of their own is inspirational. Men and women with a passion bordering on obsession, the brilliance of what they produce in stark contrast to the primitive surroundings Dave Dyson. in which they operate.

Increasingly it is evident that the Continent is not unique in this respect, and it was again brought home to me on visiting Langton Brewery in Thorpe Langton near Market Harborough. Here two men work to create the very best beer they can in half a barn, on a farm, with brewery equipment welded, In go the hops. hammered and scrounged together.

Obviously passionate and probably obsessed, their working environment belies the good beer they produce. David Dyson and Alistair Chapman have been on this mission now for more than 10 years, moving out of The Bell at East Langton some five years ago.

The brewery has “grown organically, and that’s just fine by us”, according to David. While not quite completely having given up the day jobs, the brewery is effectively a full-time occupation, and it is possible to turn up and buy some beer, though you do have to call first. All beers are bottle-conditioned on their yeasts, so care should be taken

when pouring unless you want a slightly cloudy pint. The range of beers is available in 500ml bottles at £2.40, or £2 if you buy 12. For larger volumes, polypins (bag in a box) are available in 18 pints at £34, and 36 pints at £55. For a party you might consider a nine-gallon firkin – 72 pints – for £79.

The brewing process Says David: “The malted barley is mixed with treated, heated water (‘liquor’) to create a ‘mash’. After 75 minutes standing in the mash tun, the sugary liquid (‘wort’) is run off and pumped into the ‘copper’. At the same time, the mash is rinsed (‘sparged’) with more hot liquor and when the copper is full it is brought to boiling point. The wort is boiled for 60 minutes during which time hops are added. We use a variety of hops including Fuggle and Bramling Cross.

“The wort is rested before being cooled and then pumped into a fermenting vessel.

“When all the wort has been pumped into the fermenting vessel we add yeast. Over the next few days this will convert the sugars in the wort into alcohol.

Once the desired specific gravity has been reached, the brew is chilled to halt the fermentation process. After a few days the beer is then racked into casks.”

LANGTON BREWERY Grange Farm, Welham Road, Thorpe Langton, Market Harborough, Leics LE16 7TU, 07840 532 826, www langtonbrewery.co.uk info@langtonbrewery.co.uk

”The hops give the beer its bitterness, flavour and aroma.

We use a few varieties including Fuggle and Bramling Cross.”

Two Langton beers Caudle Bitter 3.9% ABV

Inclined Plane 4.2% ABV

WE SAY: Exceptionally well balanced ale with harmony between the richness of the malts and bitterness of the hops – an outstanding example of traditional English ale.

WE SAY: Bright and zesty in the style of India Pale Ale aromatically. On the palate the hops take centre stage, but with sound background warmth and structure, making for a surprisingly refreshing tonic at this strength.

THEY SAY: An easy-drinking beer with a traditional bitter taste. Named after the range of local hills

22 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

THEY SAY: A straw-coloured bitter with a citrus nose and long hoppy finish.

Drinks break

A quick coffee & cocktail The Ottoman

The perfect cafetiere coffee

Many of us will have tried The Kir, or The Kir Royale, where you add champagne or something else sparkly to a little crème de cassis. The

By The Cocktail Shaker Boys Ottoman is a variation on Please check this proof carefully and is correct by return email to Moira Pritchard, thatconfi themerm withthat a littleitadded m.pritchard@bournepublishinggroup.co.uk or– call 01780 766199. local interest incredibly However, if you do require any amendments, please within 2 Rose days of receipt of this email. simple but a real cracker!notify usBy Adrian

Advertisement Proof

We CANNOT be held responsible for any mistakes once authorisation has been given.

* 1 measure of Monin rose syrup * Top up with chilled ‘Tickled

Pink‘ from Welland Valley Wine

Pour this combination into your champagne flute and you have a great drink that will take you back to summer in an instant! You can find Tickled Pink and other Welland Valley wines at Duncan Murray in Market Harborough (www. duncanmurraywines.co.uk).

Monin syrups are available at Waitrose or can be ordered online.

1 Put approximately two rounded teaspoons of fresh coffee per mug into your French Press – more if you like it strong.

2 Having boiled fresh water, let the water settle and after a minute pour into your cafetiere, stirring consistently for about a minute. Enjoy that aroma!

3 Cover and leave for another five minutes (if you can wait that long). Plunge and pour into your best porcelain. Oh, and don’t forget a sprinkle of cinnamon, aniseed or chocolate, as they do in Paris/Rome/Sao Paolo etc.

Bon voyage!

CONTACTS The Cocktail Shaker Boys of Market Harborough offer a range of drinks-related party services and recipes: www.cocktailshakerboys.co.uk Adrian Rose is managing director of Azorieblue Coffee, based just over the border in Melbourne, Derbyshire: www.azorieblue.co.uk

www.jamjarshop.com www.jamj jarshop p.com

ST FOR THE BE S, JAM JAR , S, LIDS BOTTLE AND LABELS KING JAM MA ENT EQUIPM

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Jam Jar Shop, 24 Pillings Road, Oakham, Rutland, LE15 6QF 01572 720 720 - sales@jamjarshop.com - www.jamjarshop.com

GREAT TASTE AWARDS 2010/11

Local stars of

impeccable T

he British Great Taste Awards are organised by Somersetbased Guild of Fine Foods and take place annually. They were set up with the aim of giving us – the eaters and drinkers of this country – a reliable seal of approval based on taste.

Producers enter their foods and drinks, which are blind-tasted and assessed by over 300 judges in three different panels.

Judges consist of chefs, retailers, food writers and industry experts.

This year saw a total of 6021 entries from more than 1300 companies. To be awarded a gold star is no mean feat; to get three – the top award – is big news.

This year, 1700 products won a gold star, with 99 pocketing three stars.

Locally, 12 Leicestershire and Rutland producers netted 26 gold stars – a great effort. Two makers, Quenby Hall and Long Clawson Dairy, scooped three golds.

Special mention should also go to The Mushroom Basket of Packington and Claybrooke Mill of Claybrooke Magna who won two stars for their lamb and flour respectively.

These fantastic Leicestershire and Rutland-made products won gold stars in the latest Great Taste Awards 1

4

By Simtom Foods of Desford, Leicestershire, 01530 230776, www.simtom.co.uk

By Long Clawson Dairy of Long Clawson, Leicestershire, 01664 822332, www.clawson.co.uk

2

Simtom Lime and Chilli Chutney + + +

Quenby Hall Blue Stilton Wedges + + +

By Simtom Foods of Desford, Leicestershire, 01530 230776, www.simtom.co.uk

By Quenby Hall of Hungarton, Leicestershire, 0116 2595403, www.quenbystilton.co.uk

3

John Lusty Seeded Spelt Crackers with Poppy, Sesame & Pumpkin Seeds + + +

Claybrooke Mill’s Wholemeal Woodhouse Flour Mix with Fennel & Poppy Seeds + + +

By Fosters Traditional Foods of Market Harborough, Leicestershire, 01858 438000, www.blueberrygroup.net

By Claybrooke Mill of Claybrooke Magna, Leicestershire, 01455 202443, www.claybrookewatermill.co.uk

Simtom Jalfrezi Cooking Sauce + + +

5

6

1

3

4 5

2 26 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 24

Long Clawson Blue Stilton + + +

3

6

Local produce

e taste

A closer look...

Belvoir Fruit Farms’ Blackberry & Apple Cordial + + +

7

By Belvoir Fruit Farms, Belvoir, Leicestershire, 01476 870286, www.belvoirfruitfarms.co.uk

Clarkes’ Chicken in Stilton & Celery Sauce + + +

8

By Clarkes of Queniborough, 0116 2606383, www.clarkesqueniborough.co.uk – Clarkes also won a gold star for its duck in bramble sauce

The Mushroom Basket’s Lamb Steak + + +

9

By The Mushroom Basket of Packington, Leicestershire, 01530 415862, www.themushroombasket.com

Northfield Farm’s Rutland Panther Bacon + + +

10

By Northfield Farm of Cold Overton, Rutland, 01664 474271, www.northfieldfarm.com

10

8

9

7

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 25

GREAT TASTE AWARDS 2010/11

Cracking cakes and pioneering pies You thought that was it, didn’t you? Nope. These local pies and cakes won Great Taste stars, too

Blue

Stilton ...the Traditional King of Cheeses with a strong flavour and a crumbly open texture

4

3 2 1

Winner of the 3 star GOLD AWARD at the Great Taste Awards 2010

H

ow about this for a picnic?! The two fab-looking cakes – carrot (the creamy one) and lemon (the swirly one) – are made by Vittles Desserts of Leicester. Vittles has been making puds for 19 years and supplies big names like Hilton and YO! Sushi.

Pies-wise, you’re looking at a massive chunk of pastry, pork, turkey, ham and stuffing by Walkers Charnwood Bakery of Leicester, plus a variety of pork pies by Melton Mowbray’s very own Dickinson & Morris.

Walkers Charnwood Bakery’s Pork, Turkey & Ham Stuffing-Topped Pie for Tesco + + +

1

By Walkers Charnwood Bakery of Leicester, 0116 2340033, www.samworthbrothers.co.uk

Vittles’ Handmade Lemon Cake with Spanish Lemon Fresh Cream + + +

2

www.clawson.co.uk

By Vittles Desserts of Leicester, 0116 2461951, www.vittlesfoods.co.uk

Dickinson & Morris Large, Medium, Mini and Snack Melton Mowbray Pork Pies + + + Medium Pie + + + Large, Mini &

3

Snack-size pork pies

By Dickinson & Morris of Melton Mowbray, 01664 482068, www.porkpie.co.uk

Vittles’ Traditional Swiss-Recipe Carrot Cake + + +

4

Vittles Desserts of Leicester, 0116 2461951, www.vittlesfoods.co.uk

WIN A £350 CLUB SPA BREAK FOR TWO AT WHITTLEBURY HALL HOTEL & SPA Whittlebury Hall has just won The Foodie Guide Award 2010 for Best Northants Restaurant yet again. It’s got amazing spa facilities, too. Here’s your chance to experience its charms Award-winning four-star Whittlebury Hall Hotel and Spa, set in rural Northamptonshire, is all about indulgence. Murrays, its restaurant (well, one of them – it’s got four in total), has two AA Rosettes for fine dining excellence, as well as the Foodie Award mentioned above, which it’s won for the third year running. Spa facilities are top-class: luxuriate with Heat and Ice Experiences, a sanarium, hot room, ‘Experience Showers’, a hydrotherapy pool and more besides.

Award-winning food.

Four-star luxury near Towcester, Northants.

PRIZE DETAILS We’re offering you the chance to win the perfect midweek treat and indulge in a deluxe getaway. The prize is a one-night Club Spa stay for two people, worth £350. The winner and their guest will enjoy the following: Q Overnight accommodation in a Club Room.

Q Full English breakfast.

Q Dinner in Murrays fine-dining restaurant.

Q Heat and Ice Experiences on your day of arrival.

Q Full use of the Day Spa and Leisure Club facilities (including the 19-metre pool, whirlpool spa and 42-station Cybex gym).

For more details on Whittlebury’s indulgent Hotel and Spa breaks, and to register for an e-newsletter to receive news of latest offers, visit www.whittleburyhall.co.uk

HOW TO ENTER To enter the competition, visit www.greatfoodleics.co.uk and fill in the form.

OR email your name, address and phone number to competitions@greatfoodleics.co.uk.

OR fill in this form (photocopies are fine), or provide the same information on a postcard, and post to: Whittlebury Comp, Great Food, 7 Victoria St, Melton Mowbray LE13 0AR. Closing date: Oct 11, 2010. The first entry drawn on Oct 12 will win.

Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms First name.............................................................................................................................

Surname ........................................................................................................................................................................

Address ..........................................................................................................................................................................

Postcode........................................................................................................................................................................

Tel no. ..............................................................................................................................................................................

Email address.............................................................................................................................................................

By sending/entering your address/email/phone number, you are choosing to be contacted occasionally by Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland with news of great offers. You can unsubscribe at any time and your details will never be passed to other organisations. Please tick if you DO NOT wish to be contacted by Great Food [ ] by carefully chosen partner organisations [ ] Terms and conditions: Closing date October 11, 2010. Full terms and conditions apply. This prize is non-transferable and non-refundable, and has no cash equivalent. This prize cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or promotion. The prize is available Tuesday-Friday, excludes Saturdays and Bank Holidays, and is subject to availability. Winners must be aged 18 years or over. This competition is not open to the employees of Macepark Group, Scalford Hall, Whittlebury Hall, or Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland and their family members.

Accommodation is based on two people sharing a club room; £40 single supplement applies. Prize to be booked and taken by December 30, 2010.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 27

LOCAL FOOD ON TV

TV dinners

Four local chefs – and Leicester Market – are some of the stars of a new series to be shown on FIVE this September

T

V cameras, crew and presenter Amanda Lamb were at Leicester Market in July to record two episodes of Street Market Chefs, a new show set to go out on FIVE this September.

The programme, which showcases local produce, markets and chefs, is the brainchild of Leicester-born Johanna Dyer, chief executive of Birmingham’s Hotbed Media.

The format of each episode involves two local chefs cooking dishes using market-sourced ingredients. Judges from the local food scene taste the creations and choose the winner.

The four local chefs in the two Leicester episodes – shows were also

filmed in Bristol and Doncaster – are shown below. Judges included Sallie Hooper of Leicestershire Food Links (see p51), Aaron Patterson of Hambleton Hall, TV chef and Ambassador for Leicester Market Rachel Green (p7), and Ruth Wakeling of Bouverie Lodge Farm.

1

3

2

Leicester Market Leicester Market, the largest market of its type in Europe with 700 years of history behind it, provided a bustling backdrop for the show. “We want to show you can get great ingredients on your doorstep and encourage more people to shop in their markets again,” said presenter Amanda.

4

Street Market Chef 1

Street Market Chef 3

From: Entropy, 42 Hinckley Road,

From: Colourworks, 2 Westbridge Close,

Tom Cockerill

Leicester LE3 0RB, 0116 2259650, www.entropylife.com.

Tom and bar/restaurant Entropy have carved out quite a reputation.

Street Market Chef 2 Simon Nurse

From: The Village, 544 Bradgate Road, Newtown Linford, Leics LE6 0HB, 01530 245801, www.thevillage restaurant newtownlinford.co.uk.

Situated in beautiful Newtown Linford, The Village serves modern British food.

28 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Rahul Gupta

Leicester LE3 5LW, 0116 2624170, www.colourworksrestaurant.com.

Colourworks overlooks the River Soar and castle gardens.

Street Market Chef 4 Phillip Sharpe

Restaurant: Hotel Maiyango, 13-21 St Nicholas Place, Leicester LE1 4LD, 0116 2518898, www.maiyango.com.

Phil and award-winning boutique hotel Maiyango are supporters of local produce and producers.

As this issue was going to press, Leicester Council revealed it had exciting plans to invest £600,000 revamping Leicester Market in a bid to attract more shoppers. More on this development next issue.

CONTACTS FIVE, www.five.tv Hotbed Media, 0121 248 3900, www.hotbedmedia.co.uk Leicestershire County Council, 0116 2323232, www.leics.gov.uk Leicester Market, 0116 2232372, www.leicestermarket.co.uk

Phillip Sharpe’s honey & ginger plantain with pan-fried sea bass Serves 2

* 1 whole sea bass * 1 plantain * 200g cassava * Clear honey * 20g diced ginger * Curry powder * Cream * Tomato juice * Butter * White wine * Oil * Salt & pepper * Lemon 1 Prepare fish by removing bones and pin bones, and refrigerate until ready to cook.

2 Make a quick stock, and reduce with a little cream and tomato juice.

3 Peel and finely slice cassava and cut into very fine strips.

Dust with a little flour and curry powder and deep fry until crispy. Place on a cloth to drain off any oil.

4 Peel and wash plantain and cut into thin slices. Season and cook in a pan over a high heat. Add diced ginger, honey and a little butter and place in oven until cooked.

5 Heat another pan and cook seasoned sea bass fillets, adding the juice from half a lemon.

6 Place plantain onto a plate and place the sea bass on top. Add crispy cassava, sauce and garnish with crisp, seasonal vegetables.

TV dinners

ABOVE: Cameras start to roll.

BELOW: Fresh salmon on sale at the market.

Leicester Market sea bass with plantain.

ABOVE: Amanda Lamb.

BELOW: Leicester Market.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 29

LOCAL PRODUCER

Phew, what

a porker!

Rare-breed Mangalitza pigs are the stars of beautiful Fox Covert Farm in Rutland’s Chater Valley

A

n Hungarian piggy community has sprung up

by Rutland’s River Chater.

The curly-coated pigs – called Mangalitzas – can’t believe their luck. They roam in lush wooded areas, enjoy good amounts of space, regular hearty meals and top-notch shelter. Forty-acre Fox Covert Farm could rename itself Centre Porks.

Malcolm and Lesley Gough took on Fox Covert Farm in Pilton in August 2009. Before that they were living near Fineshade Wood, part of Rockingham Forest, with dreams of keeping pigs on a smallholding.

Did you know?

Mangalitza pigs were first brought into the UK from Hungary in 2006. Two sows from that group of pioneering porkers now live on Fox Covert Farm.

30 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

“We were looking for around two acres but ended up with 40,” says Lesley. “We fell in love with Fox Covert Farm and that was that.”

Passionate rare-breed pig fans, they decided to keep Mangalitzas after attending a course run by Tony York at Pig Paradise Farm in Wiltshire (www.pigparadise.com). “I bought Malcolm a place on the course for Valentine’s Day,” says Lesley.

Mangalitzas are very similar to Lincolnshire Curly Coats, a breed that became extinct in 1972.

Like that old English pig, these Hungarians are hardy and capable of

Farm owners Lesley and Malcolm Gough.

thriving in harsh winters. They also produce fantastic meat. The story goes that Mangalitza meat was once in such high demand it was traded on Vienna’s Stock Exchange.

“Their meat is amazing,” says James Goss, head chef of the award-winning King’s Arms pub in nearby Wing. “The animals are matured slowly and have a large amount of fat.” However, far from being a bad thing, the extra lard is great news because it gives the meat succulence and huge flavour. It is also said to be a ‘lighter’ fat, with more unsaturated content. “It’s the pig equivalent of Kobe beef,” says James

Rutland pigs

Hungarian Pork Goulash

British Saddlebacks and Large Blacks are also kept here.

Serves 4

* 800g leg of Mangalitza pork * 1 tbsp olive oil * 2 large onions * 1 clove garlic * 1-2 tbsp sweet paprika * 15g plain flour * 150ml dry white wine * 285ml chicken stock * 1 tbsp tomato puree * Salt & freshly ground black pepper

Visitors on a recent open day at Fox Covert Farm.

– high praise indeed. Mangalitza fat can be whipped up like cream, and chefs at top restaurants like New York’s French Laundry – having rediscovered this old breed – are doing just that.

For Malcolm, who combines pig farming with his role as chief executive at London-based events company Emap Connect, it’s been a steep but enjoyable learning curve. “It’s been an interesting challenge to say the least – there’s so much to learn.” Lesley, a trained psychotherapist, is also loving her new life at Fox Covert Farm, and her long-term vision is to combine farming with her medical skills.

“Eventually, I’d like to use the farm and its animals to help people affected by conditions such as autism,” she

Rent-a-Porker!

If you’d like to keep a pig but don’t have the land to do it yourself, you can rent one from Fox Covert Farm.

You’ll get a certificate, the chance to name your porker, and can visit the farm to feed and pet the little swine.

says. “Animals can be used in therapy and have the potential to act as a very effective communication medium.”

Seeing the wooded areas of Fox Covert Farm, where the pigs roam in Chater valley, there is a real feeling of tranquility, and it’s easy to imagine therapy taking place here.

Another string to Fox Covert Farm’s bow is its herd of miniature Hereford cattle, which as well as producing fine meat, are known for their good temperament. “Because we live in Britain’s smallest county, we thought it’d be a good idea to keep tiny Herefords,” says Lesley. There are good economic reasons, too: miniature Herefords eat around 40% of the food that their full-sized counterparts consume, and produce 50% as much meat.

But it’s the curious-looking Mangalitzas that will be remembered by those who visit Fox Covert Farm.

Starting this October, Malcolm will run a series of half-day pig-keeping courses where you can learn more about both keeping pigs and about the lardy, woolly, hardy Hungarian rarebreed porkers. For more information, get in touch with Malcolm or Lesley on the number below.

CONTACT Fox Covert Farm, Pinfold Lane, Pilton, Oakham, Rutland, LE15 9PA, 01780 720660, www.chatervalley.co.uk

WHERE TO BUY You can buy Mangalitza meat, and other produce, directly from Fox Covert Farm. The King’s Arms at Wing, Rutland, is also planning to serve some Mangalitza dishes.

* 450g small new potatoes * 3 large dill-pickled cucumbers * 2 tbsp sour cream * 1 tbsp chopped parsley 1 Remove excess fat from pork and cut meat into 1in cubes. If you are lucky enough to be cooking with Mangalitza pork, leave a little more fat on the pork cubes – it will enhance the flavour.

2 Heat the olive oil in a flameproof casserole dish and cook the pork cubes, a few at a time, over a high heat, until lightly browned. Don’t overcook. Remove and set aside.

3 Peel and chop the onions and crush the garlic. Turn down to a moderate heat and add to the casserole. Cook gently for five minutes until soft and lightly browned, then stir in the garlic, paprika and flour.

4 Cook for a further minute, and then add the white wine, stock and tomato puree. Bring to the boil, stirring continuously.

5 Return pork to the casserole dish and season lightly with salt.

Scrub the new potatoes and add them to the dish.

6 Bring to the boil once more, remove from heat and cover with a tightly fitting lid or foil. Place in the oven and cook for two hours on Gas 4 (180C). Slice the dill-pickled cucumbers and add during the last 10 minutes of cooking.

7 Just before serving, season with pepper, spoon the sour cream on top of the meat, dust with paprika and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 31

WINE

Shaped by the grape How did a Roux brothers-trained Swiss master sommelier come to sell wine in Cold Overton?

ARTICLE: JAN McCOURT PHOTOS: MATTHEW WRIGHT

Y

ou never really know someone until you sit down with them.

Sometimes a single childhood experience sets him or her on a path for the rest of their life. For others there is no coup de foudre, no single moment of enlightenment. For these people life takes a series of gentle turns until their careers are beyond the point of no return. They are like lobster, placed calmly into cold water and warmed by tiny degrees, before finally being coaxed into a slumber.

Patrick Whenham-Bossy has never cast off the accent of his mother tongue, despite having lived away from his native Switzerland for years. He is like a finely tuned instrument: Swiss precision, French passion; both combine to create a person suited to his calling in the same way a holy man is called to his God. “My family come from a small village outside Fribourg,” says Patrick. “I grew up in Geneva, where my grandmother owned and ran a café/bistrot. Wine and fondue flowed! Food was always accompanied by wine and it was normal for me to have a watered-down glass.”

Once old enough, Patrick was sent to spend the summer months on a vineyard in the Pouilly-Fuissé area of France. “I learned every aspect of wine-making,” he recalls.

“It was hard graft – preparing for the harvest, cleaning equipment and painting barrels. Young wine was sold by the litre and drunk every day on that vineyard.”

As his 18th birthday approached, Patrick was given the opportunity to attend the Tain L’Hermitage in the Rhone valley. This was the first sommelier school to be opened in France. Here and in Paris, all the subtle influences to which he had been exposed were reinforced and forged in an intensive three years of study. A restaurant or hotel sommelier is responsible for the buying, storing and presenting of its wine and spirits. A true sommelier will have been trained intensively in all aspects of running a great

AMPHORA WINES Northfield Farm, Whissendine Lane, Cold Overton LE15 7QF, 01664 474306, 07814 747330

32 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

restaurant. “I was drilled in the workings of the kitchen, waitering, serving clients as well as the skills involved in bar work, cocktails, cigars, spirits and, of course, wine,” says Patrick.

Whenever he could, Patrick returned home to travel with his parents, tasting wines on the way. “I remember holidays at my godmother’s chalet near Geneva. It was magical – hunting for mushrooms in the woods and smelling the flavours of different cheeses and dishes.”

After Paris, all sorts of opportunities opened up, but Patrick still spoke little English and wanted to broaden his experience. “London was the place to be, and in London, Le Gavroche was the ultimate place to learn,” says Patrick.

In 1983 Patrick began a two-year apprenticeship under Albert Roux.

It is difficult to describe just how influential the two Roux brothers, Albert and Michel, were to the restaurant scene in London and indeed England, in the early 1980s. Life at Gavroche was like enlisting in the army, almost a form of military service. “The management would check everything from fingernails to shoe shine,” says Patrick. “Every aspect of the job and associated jobs had not just to be experienced, but mastered.”

The college in France seemed like a distant summer camp compared with this machismo and intensity.

Ten juniors would start and before long, ten would be two.

No one was fired but people were driven to give up. They were pushed so hard that tears were commonplace. But for anyone who survived beyond that first year, the experience began to be truly interesting.

Patrick survived. He rose to become the assistant head sommelier and after two years became ‘a Gavroche boy’.

This innocuous description in fact represented a form of international passport in the wine business that still holds power today. Patrick had earned his passport and was determined to use it.

After a lifetime devoted to wine in Geneva, Paris and California, Patrick Whenham-Bossy now runs Amphora Wines in Rutland, where he supplies some first-class restaurants.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 33

WINE

In 1985, he went to California to ride the wave of adventure that permeated so much of life in the early ‘80s.

Patrick worked as sommelier in such restaurants as Champagne, where he had his first truly “grown-up job”, building a world-class cellar from nothing, and Laurent Jouet in Beverley Hills. Three years followed of Petrus and Latour, of Oscar parties and impromptu celebrity performances, of Rodeo Drive and Sunset Boulevard.

Despite the fun and glamour of the West Coast, Europe called Patrick back, and the strongest call came from England. “After a short time back in Switzerland, I returned to England and in 1993 took up the position of head sommelier at Hambleton Hall in Rutland.”

The next five years saw him marry an English rose, father two children, and grow Hambleton Hall’s wine reputation.

In 1998, Patrick left Hambleton to set out on his own, importing and supplying wines that range from everyday tipples to once-in-a-lifetime bottles. Patrick supplies some of the finest restaurants in the UK. Names such as Waterside Inn, Gavroche, Fat Duck, Hotel du Vin and Sat Bains roll off his tongue and the walls of his wine workshop in Cold Overton are adorned with photographs of growers, praise from great names in wine and certificates of achievement.

Most poignant of all, though, hidden in a corner, is the letter of thanks from the Roux Brothers.

JAN McCOURT Jan set up Northfield Farm in Rutland after working as a stockbroker in the City of London.

34 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Vino wonderland... inside Amphora Wines.

A deliciously different experience.

11 Market Place, Oakham, Rutland LE15 6DT

Free Delicious Dessert

Come and visit us during the day for a relaxing coffee and nibble on our selection of home made cakes that have become famous in Stamford.

Our bake house is constantly producing cakes to order, including many novelty designs.

With all Friday Night Bookings when a starter and main course is purchased

Come and try our Fantastic New Menu!

We can now offer you a new evening experience with our evening bistro. Bring your own favourite bottle of wine and enjoy some of the freshest ingredients that our region has to offer.

Prepared expertly by our head chef Liam Chettle.

BURGHLEY WEEKEND Bookings are now being taken for Burghley Weekend, extra tables are available in the marquee in The Secret Garden.

Now Open from Tuesday to Saturday Lunch 12 - 2.30 Dinner 6 - 10

37 St Mary’s Street, Stamford PE9 2DS Bistro Bookings & Coffee Shop enquiries: 01780 754222 Cake enquiries: 01780 762978 www.thefinefoodstore.com

To book call 01572 723199 stating ‘Great Food Offer’ PS. TAPAS NIGHT EVERY TUESDAY - 3 FOR THE PRICE OF 2

AT

W

ING HALL FARM SHOP HOP offers a unique selection of fresh, local and specially selected produce from the local area and further afield. With fresh bread baked by the renowned Hambleton Bakery delivery each day; conserves and chutneys from the ‘Pickled Village’ of nearby Bulwick and meat from herds known personally to the butcher, the shop is more than a local service, it’s a gourmet destination in its own right.

Among the ‘must try’ products are the specialty chocolates from Holdsworth; the delicious Lubcloud Organic milk and cream and Belvoir Brewery’s local ales. Other products

worth wor t a mention th meen me ntion nt n ion in ncl clu lu ude an Ita talia lian lia n include Italian range direct from Italian suppliers (think tinned baby tomatoes, bursting with flavour or wild boar ragu – perfect for the silky spaghetti or pasta also on offer); local paté in a range of flavours and the homemade lemon curd – irresistible! Our homemade cakes and free-range eggs are also perennial favourites.

However, beyond the specially selected produce and wine, the unusual cheese board and the local cider and real ales, the shop offers an even rarer part of today’s shopping experience – a stunning location and attentive, courteous customer service.

AND

M O RE THAN JU ST A FARM S H O P!

As part part ooff the the ffam amily ily-ow -ow wned d and aan family-owned run Wing Hall Estate, the Farm Shop is part of a long tradition of diversification at Wing Hall (still owned by the same family that built this Victorian Manor House in the 1880s), including a café-bar, snug holiday cottages and coarse fishing lakes, and this helps inspire the personal approach visitors and regular customers alike have come to expect.

For special occasions, the Hall itself can be hired for Weddings, conferences, private and corporate events Clement Worrall (based on the Estate), can tailor an event to your brief and budget.

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.WINGHALL.CO.UK  TEL. 00 44 0 1572 737 090

FOR WEDDINGS, CORPORATE OR PRIVATE EVENTS VISIT WWW.CLEMENTWORRALL.COM  TEL. 00 440 207 261 1950

p35_GF_SeptOct10.indd Sec1:35

19/8/10 14:11:25

Party bottles WINE TIPS

Ben Robson talks to crackers that will suit

12

Andmann Seppi, Crémant d’Alsace Brut Vallée Noble, Alsace, France.

Hawkshead Pinot Noir 2008, Central Otago, New Zealand.

34

DRY SPARKLING Every dinner should start with a freshener. This has lemon and freshly baked bread flavours around a mineral core. A gem and a great find by Patrick (see p32).

Exclusive to Amphora Wines: www.amphora-wines.co.uk

9 .9

FULL-BODIED RED

Made by drying the best grapes on trays over winter. This effectively raisins them and results in huge, dense fruit, aromas of dates and lush blackcurrant with vanilla. Try serving with cheese instead of port. Simply too big for all but the fullest-flavoured dishes.

Bat & Bottle: www.batwine.co.uk

MEDIUM-BODIED RED When I asked Harvey of Rutland Vintners for his perfect dinner-party wine, he went straight for this Rioja.

Loaded with oak and fruit, well suited to hearty stew.

Rutland Vintners: www.wineshoprutland.co.uk

6

5

Luigi Righetti, Amarone 2006 ‘Capitel de Roari’, Veneto, Italy.

El Circulo, Rioja Crianza 2006, Rioja, Spain.

Villa Giada, Moscato d’Asti 2009 ‘Andrea’, Piemonte, Italy .

LIGHT, SWEET, SPARKLING It’s a joy to finish a meal on a light note and this is the lightest and most joyous of them all. The orange blossom flavours flatter desserts.

Not to be confused with supermarket versions, this is sheer delight and reason enough to visit Ben’s Wine Shop in Oakham: www.benswineshop.co.uk

BEN ROBSON

Ben runs specialist Italian wine importer Bat & Bottle, Unit 5, 19 Pillings Road, Oakham, Rutland LE15 6QF. 01572 759735, 07809 828662, www.batwine.co.uk

36 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

9 .9 £5

40 8.

1 £

DRY WHITE This is where Duncan (Duncan Murray Wines) cut his teeth, working in the baking hot vineyards of Poujol in the South of France. Pico is made from Vermentino and old Carignan Blanc: the sappy apricot and lime flavours are perfect with Mediterranean foods.

Exclusive to Duncan Murray: www.duncanmurraywines.co.uk

MEDIUM-BODIED RED Elegant, silky tannins with an explosion of forest fruits laced with coffee and mocha – a wine for Northfield Farm’s finest cuts.

Philip (Amps) believes “if this were Burgundy it would be £40” and he may well be right.

Exclusive to Amps Fine Wines: www.ampsfinewines.co.uk

.19 £7

£8

Poujol, Pico 2009, Vin de Pays de l’Herault.

95 9. £1

87 3.

1 £

fellow local wine experts and selects six any dinner party you care to throw them at

T

‘Where potions stir emotions’ Hand made Chocolates Chocolate making workshops Wedding Favours Corporate Gifts Coffee Shop 5 Churchgate Mews Loughborough LE11 1TZ

HE MENU at the garden kitchen focuses on local, seasonal produce from its own extensive butchery & herb garden to produce lunches and fine dining evenings that reflect the restaurant’s rural and horticultural setting.

Situated in Rutland and a member of “Tastes of Lincolnshire”, our team of chefs benefit from a variety of small, local producers to create fresh & imaginative dishes.

A Walk Farm Lincoln Red

T THE GARDEN farm shop we use Stamford lamb, Grantham pork, a wide variety of game shot at Clipsham and we are now proud suppliers of Walk Farm Lincoln Red beef from Great Casterton. We also make our own sausages, meat pies, haslet, kebabs and burgers.

F

OR PRIVATE dining experiences we can create a three course meal for up to 50 people or a full buffet either at the restaurant or at your own venue.

Let us reveal the tastes of the local rural area for your party.

For menus visit our website at www.stamfordgardencentre.co.uk or call 01780 430349 to reserve a table.

Both at... t: 01509 238113

e: info@chocolate-alchemy.co.uk

A FEW SNIPPETS FROM OUR REVIEWS

GILES COREN FROM THE TIMES SAID

“in my top ten restaurants” 8.5/10 BECKY JONES FROM THE LEICESTER MERCURY SAID “culinary

perfection” 5 stars

TIM BURKE OF THE METRO SAID WYMESWOLD LE12 6ST

“more than just a restaurant”

v OUTSIDE CATERING v VIRTUAL DELICATESSEN v MONTHLY COOKERY DEMONSTRATIONS

v IDYLLIC COUNTRY SETTING WITH ALFRESCO DINING AREA

“currently among the best places to eat the East Midlands” 5 stars HARDENS RESTAURANT GUIDE SAID

“Innovative way with local ingredients” 1 star out of a maximum 2 with a special note on the ambience

v BESPOKEE C CELEBRATION ELEBRATION C CAKES AKES yahoo.co.uk www.hammerandpincers.co.uk Contact us... 01509 880 735, email hammerpincers@

p37_GF_SeptOct10.indd Sec1:37

19/8/10 13:59:26

LOCAL FOOD HERO Olive Branch All-Stars Each issue, award-winning sister pubs The Olive Branch of Clipsham and The Red Lion Inn of Stathern introduce their food superstars – partners who help make their menus so renowned

The Melton Cheeseboard Probably the best speciality cheese shop in the UK. By Sean Hope

S Above: Tim Brown.

Below, clockwise from top left: Melton Cheeseboard; Sean Hope cutting Lancashire Black Bomb; inside The Olive Branch; Sean feeding ducks; Stilton at Melton Cheeseboard; The Red Lion Inn tasting session.

ometimes you meet people who share your foodie passions.

Tim Brown of The Melton Cheeseboard is one such person. Like us here at The Olive Branch and Red Lion, Tim’s utterly passionate about cheese. He’s supplied us for more than three years but doesn’t just deliver to our kitchens and leave, he also offers suggestions, advice and recommendations. For example, he’s a fan of Keen’s Cheddar and Lanark Blue (as well as the local Stiltons!), and talked eloquently about them at a recent cheese-tasting we held at The Red Lion. As a result – and because they taste superb – those two have gone straight onto our new cheeseboard (see opposite).

Tasting sessions are brilliant fun and bring everyone together, boosting

morale in the kitchens and front-ofhouse. Seeing Tim’s passion for and knowledge of cheese is inspirational.

Tim’s pride and joy Based on Windsor St in Melton town centre, with the Blue Stilton-producing dairies of Long Clawson and Cropwell Bishop a few miles north, Quenby Hall a stone’s throw south and Tuxford & Tebbutt just yards away, The Melton Cheeseboard is in prime position.

“We’ve been supplying cheeses to the people of Leicestershire and beyond for five years,” says Tim. “With 120 varieties in stock, we like to think there’s enough choice! We’re a family business and support local producers.

We also have stands at Loughborough and Melton farmers’ markets.” www.meltoncheeseboard.co.uk

Sean Hope’s crispy goat’s cheese parcels Serves 4 Salad:

* 1 packet mixed leaves, plus rocket * 1 red onion, finely chopped * 12 roasted walnut halves * 1 tsp chopped fennel

Place all the above in a salad bowl.

Walnut dressing:

* 8 roasted walnuts * 1 egg yolk * 1 tsp Colsterworth honey * 1 tsp grain mustard * 1 tsp cider vinegar

Blitz dressing ingredients in a blender.

Crispy goat’s cheese parcels:

* 2 slices Fivemiletown goat’s cheese log, cut into 8 pieces

* 16 wonton or filo pastry squares, each about 10cm square

* 1 egg, beaten * Cracked black pepper & celery salt

1 Lay out all 16 pieces of wonton or filo pastry and brush with egg wash.

2 Place a piece of cheese in the centre of each sheet and sprinkle with pepper and celery salt.

3 Bring corners together and crimp to seal, making a purse shape.

4 Heat three tablespoons of olive oil in a pan, drop in wonton parcels and brown all over. Remove from pan and drain. Alternatively, bake filo parcels at Gas 5 (190C) for 10 minutes. Combine the three elements and serve.

38 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

The Olive Branch & Red Lion’s Ultimate Cheeseboard Working with Tim Brown, the two pubs recently selected their new cheeseboard, which will be served at The Olive Branch and Red Lion throughout autumn...

1. Fivemiletown Irish goat’s cheese Mild and creamy with a zesty tang. A good way to start the board, with subtle flavours.

into the Slow Food Ark (see p44). It’s aged for at least 10 months, cloth-bound and made with rennet and unpasteurised milk. Tangy and powerful.

www.fivemiletown.com

www.keenscheddar.co.uk

2. Clawson’s Aged Leicestershire Red

4. Lancashire Black Bomb

This cheese’s full title is Thomas Hoe Stevenson, named after a renowned Vale of Belvoir cheesemaker. It’s aged for six months and cloth-bound, giving a mellow but very distinctive caramel and toffee flavour. www.thomashoestevenson.co.uk

3. Keen’s Cheddar Made on the same farm near Wincanton, Somerset, since 1899, this cheese has made it

An extra-mature Lancashire from the Shorrock family of Goosnargh near Preston. Very creamy and full, with an acidic backnote that guarantees a gumtingling sensation.

01772 865250

made in the Alsace region of France. Strong aroma with a robust, meaty taste.

smoke, it will stand up to a smoky Islay malt.

www.ermitage.com

7. Cropwell Bishop Blue Stilton

6. Lanark Blue ‘Scotland’s Roquefort’ – famous cheese made by Humphrey Errington in his farmhouse creamery 1000ft above sea level from unpasteurised ewes’ milk.

Full flavoured, with a hint of peat

http://tiny.cc/bxv8b

5

4

Small producer from south Notts. Creamy Stilton with a deep, lingering flavour – Supreme Champion at 2009’s International you Awards. www.cropwellbishopstilton.com

All these cheeses are available to buy at The Melton Cheeseboard.

3

2

5. Munster Pungent rindwashed cheese

SEAN HOPE & THE OLIVE BRANCH Sean Hope is head chef at The Olive Branch (One Michelin Star), Main Street, Clipsham, Rutland, LE15 7SH, 01780 410355, www.theolivebranchpub.com

6

1

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 39

GAME COOKING

Muntjac’s back!

Tim Hart, owner Hambleton

W

hilst venison from a fine fallow buck has been prized as a great delicacy since the Normans reintroduced them to our island, Britain’s gourmets have not yet cottoned on to muntjac as a culinary treat. According to fossils from the Miocene period (10 million years ago), the muntjac was northern Europe’s most widespread deer species in those far-off days. Now they are natives of Asia but recent colonists of southern Britain.

A few escapes or introductions from Woburn and/or Whipsnade believed to date from the 1930s started the process, which has led to this species spreading rapidly northward.

Many will know the graceful fallow deer of Burghley and Bradgate Park, and the ‘Monarch of the Glen’ or red deer that can be spotted around Grimsthorpe and in other parks in the region.

of Hambleton Hall and Bakery, celebrates a new wild food

Occasionally you may see our other native species such as roe deer, which has a base around Milton near Peterborough. The new kid on the block is more low-slung than the natives, about the size of a small Labrador, and you are most likely to see him at night, his short legs and low head carriage giving him a piggy look very different to the other more elegant types.

At Hambleton Hall we have been working with muntjac since gamekeepers started offering us animals five years ago. I have to report that they are absolutely first rate! They have a pale-coloured, mild-flavoured meat closer to lamb than to red deer.

You will not yet find muntjac in Sainsbury’s or Waitrose, but a good butcher might be able to find one and it is not impossible for the enterprising home cook to deal with a whole animal.

It is vital that your muntjac should be hung at around 4˚C for seven to ten days. If you buy from a gamekeeper or butcher, this is best done in his coldroom. Next you need to divide the animal into three parts. The saddle is supremely tender and a treat for two or three people. The legs are similar in size to those of baby milk-fed lamb and the rest of the animal can be minced to make a delicious Bolognese (see below) – the recipe works equally well for fallow venison. Roast the legs or saddle as you would lamb, but remember that you need to brown the legs carefully in a pan before giving them around 30 minutes in a medium oven to achieve medium rare (core temperature 65˚C).

At Hambleton we serve the Bolognese in a small copper pot beside a plate of homemade fettuccine, which is available from Hambleton Bakery.

Playing the game...

Time Hart.

HAMBLETON HALL Hambleton, Oakham, Rutland LE15 8TH, 01572 756991, www.hambleton hall.com

‘‘It’s vital that your muntjac should be hung at around 4oC for seven to ten days” Muntjac Bolognaise Serves 4-6

* 1kg minced muntjac or

fallow venison * 150g finely diced button mushrooms * 150g finely diced onion * 150g finely diced carrot * 150g finely diced celeriac * Handful of chopped thyme (fine)

* 2 cloves of crushed garlic * 43 tbsp tomato purée * /4 pint chicken stock * Salt * Ground Szechuan pepper * 2 limes, juiced

{ }

1 In a pan, sweat the Muntjac, also known mushrooms and onions, as ‘Barking Deer’, have colonised as then add the carrot and far north as celeriac, and sweat all Derbyshire. They’re together for 1-2 minutes. renowned for not 2 In a separate pan, fry being very good at the muntjac mince in avoiding cars. vegetable oil over a high flame until coloured, then strain through a sieve to remove any excess oil.

3 When all the meat is fried, add to the vegetables with the tomato purée, chopped thyme and garlic, and simmer for 5-10 minutes.

4 Slowly pour chicken stock over the mix and continue to simmer till all the meat is tender.

5 Finish with some of the lime juice, Szechuan pepper and salt to achieve a fairly highly seasoned result.

40 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

18 September – 3 October 2010

To coincide with British Food Fortnight, the 4th Leicester and Leicestershire Food Fortnight is encouraging residents and visitors to taste, tour, enjoy and explore the wealth of locally produced food and drink on offer within Leicester and Leicestershire.

Across the city and county, a diverse range of business and organisations are hosting more than 70 events including festivals, free tasting sessions, cookery courses and dining experiences. The fortnight culminates in the East Midlands Food and Drink Festival 2010 at Brooksby Hall on 2nd – 3rd October.

We are also challenging our hospitality businesses to create the Best Leicestershire Breakfast and Best Leicestershire Menu and are working with our schools to encourage greater food education.

For more information about events in your area please go to www.goleicestershire.com/foodfortnight or call Matthew Kempson on 0116 305 6179

Creative Contemporary

Events

Clarendon House Events Limited, 7 Meadowcourt Road, Oadby, Leicester LE2 2PD Tel: 0116 274 5215 Mobile: 07814 357984 Email: enquiries@clarendonhouse.co.uk

www.clarendonhouseevents.co.uk

PROBIOTIC

LIVE NATURAL YOGURT Quality yogurt produced just 8 hours rs after milking, BUY FRESH, BUY LOCAL CAL Available in 7 different flavours

AWARDED THE INTERNATIONAL GOLD AWARD FOR THE BEST NEW DAIRY PRODUCT 2010 * FOR PROBIOTIC LIVE NATURAL YOGURT

*Nantwich International Cheese & Dairy Show 2010

Available at your local farmshop or phone 01664 424245 (office) 01664 424772 (dairy)

p41_GF_SeptOct10.indd Sec1:41

23/8/10 11:13:09

HOME COOKING Danny Jimminson Danny is head chef and owner of the Hammer & Pincers, Wymeswold.

When he’s not creating spectacular puds, he’s out picking or inside pickling autumn’s foraged fancies.

Hedgerow treats At this time of year, ingredients for the best puddings come from country lanes, says Danny Jimminson

T

he back end of summer is a busy old time for foraging.

Having enjoyed late July and early August’s cherry harvest – lots grow wild in Leicestershire, just drive down country lanes and you’ll find a few – September and October are the months for plums, blackberries, damsons and redcurrants (see p16).

Here at the Hammer & Pincers we pickle foraged goodies in fruity vinegar, or soak in high-proof booze – vodka, gin or even that bottle of tequila at the back of your drinks cabinet. This also works incredibly well with mirabelles, if you’re lucky enough to get hold of these cousins of the good old plum. You can also use them to make that classic French dessert – tarte aux mirabelle: roll out some puff pastry, spread a good helping of frangipane or pastry cream, cover with halved mirabelles (or plums) with stones removed, then bake at Gas 4 for 25 minutes.

Blackberries are now in season and great in apple and blackberry pie or

crumble. You can also use them in a jus and serve with venison, pigeon or any other game. They freeze very well and my tip would be to spread them out on a tray without them touching, freeze, and when solid, bag them up.

It takes a bit of time, but you get nice, individually frozen berries – much easier to use than a solid block that can turn mushy when defrosted.

In this issue’s recipe we’re turning the humble blackberry into something fitting for your dinner party. This dessert ends up on my menu most years: it’s fairly simple to make – you can create all the elements in advance – and it is delicious – light, crispy, fruity, refreshing and just a little bit naughty with that cream. You could replace it with something lower in fat like strained Greek yoghurt if you wanted, and the lemon curd works without the butter, but it will just lack a bit of richness.

HAMMER & PINCERS 5 East Road, Wymeswold, Loughborough LE12 6ST, 01509 880735

Blackberry & lemon millefeuille Serves 6 For the lemon curd * 4 eggs * Grated zest & juice of 3 lemons

* 30g butter * 100g sugar

1 Mix the eggs in a bowl with the sugar, melt the butter over a low heat, and add the zest and juice from the lemons.

2 Once butter is melted, add the egg mix and stir over a low heat until the mix thickens.

3 Once thickened, cool the mix quickly or the eggs will overcook – do this by spreading the mix out on a baking sheet covered with cling film.

For the tuile mix * 50g icing sugar * 1 egg white

* 40g butter * 40g flour

1 Mix the icing sugar with butter until light and creamy.

2 Add egg white and sieved flour till a smooth dough forms.

3 Chill in fridge, then cut into rectangles (or use a tuile mould) and bake at Gas 4 (180C) until golden brown.

For the vanilla chantilly * 200ml double cream * 50g sugar

* 1 vanilla pod * Blackberries

1 Split the vanilla pod and mix with the sugar and cream and whip until stiff. Add the blackberries.

Cherries are perfect foraging material.

42 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

www.debbieboon.com

Assembly notes: The idea is to stack the tuile biscuits up with layers of lemon curd, chantilly and blackberries. Place the first biscuit onto your plate and spoon a little lemon curd onto it. Pipe some cream on top of the curd and place the blackberries around the edge of the biscuit. Top with another biscuit and repeat the process. Do this with four biscuits and three layers of lemon curd, chantilly and blackberries.

100% Home-Grown Exotic Mushrooms at:

The Mushroom Basket at Lowerfields Mushroom Farm, Packington, Leics we grow Maitake, Enoki, Buna Shimeji, Shiro Shimeji, Shiitake, Golden Enoki & Oyster Mushrooms - all picked daily on our farm.

Also on sale is our award winning Pedigree Hereford Beef, hung on the bone for a minimum of 7 weeks, again 100% home produced and butchered in our own on farm butchery.

OPENING HOURS: Mon-Fri 0800hrs-1700hrs, Sat 0800hrs-1230hrs

Visit our website:

www.themushroombasket.com

H A M B L E TO N S FINE FOODS FROM OUR FARMS

FINE FARM TO FORK GOURMET FOOD At our farm on the shores of Rutland Water, we produce naturally grazed British native breed beef and lamb. We also sell locally sourced traditionally reared British Lincolnshire pork as well as poultry and game.

OUR KITCHEN cooks pork pies, shortcrust pastry pies and ready to cook meals using our own meat.

OUR DELI sells our specialist hams, cooked and continental meats and the best of British and European cheese.

OUR STORE has a fantastic range of grocery items and helpful staff with cooking advice and recipe suggestions.

VISIT OUR STORE IN OAKHAM 16A Gaol Street, Oakham LE15 6AQ tel: 01572 724455

www.hambletonfarms.co.uk BUTCHER • DELI • PIES • CHEESES • READY MEALS • PRE - PREPARED MEATS

p43_GF_SeptOct10.indd Sec1:43

23/8/10 11:30:40

SLOW FOOD Sarah Lyon Sarah Lyon is a pro cook, food writer and head of Slow Food Rutland and Lincs. The Slow Food movement aims to promote, discover and celebrate good, local foods.

The Slow Food Page

Raise a glass of proper perry and look forward to SF’s big shindig

T

he biggest event in the Slow Food calendar – the eighth International Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre 2010 – will take place in Turin, Italy, on October 21-25. This event is the bi-annual global gathering of the Slow Food community and will attract around 150,000 visitors. Along with more than 150 other countries, Slow Food UK will assemble a group of chefs, food producers and activists, community workers and passionate Slow Food leaders. All who gather for this remarkable event – you don’t have to be a Slow Food member to attend – share a passion for the food on their plate, where it comes from, how it gets there, who makes it, how it is grown and the impact its production has on the environment and lives of all involved.

At Terra Madre there is the opportunity to learn from inspirational speakers from around the world, most notably in my view Indian philosopher and environmental activist Vandana Shiva. Since 1987, Vandana and a network of seed keepers and organic producers called Navdanya have been working in India to establish community seed banks, where locally adapted Wine and chat varieties of numerous food at Terra Madre. and forage crops are stored, shared and kept alive.

Genuine tree-hugger, Vandana Shiva.

Introducing Slow Food on Campus Slow Food on Campus is an initiative that encourages students to interact with local Slow Food groups, run events to promote the SF movement and influence food in their universities. Projects might include a campus garden, picnics, suppers and visits to local producers.

The aim is to get students involved in supporting a national network of producers, to protect local foods and to help build a healthier, more sustainable economy.

For more information on Slow Food on Campus, call

44 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

THIS ISSUE’S SLOW FOOD HERO From My Farm – a brand created to promote low food miles and seasonal, regionally grown fruit and vegetables – is a new sponsor of Slow Food. From My Farm is the brainchild of Charlotte Falkingham, a farmer’s daughter from Yorkshire, and was launched in October 2008 in response to growing demand for fresh, local produce. From My Farm’s sponsorship brings valuable funds into Slow Food that will be put towards supporting the development of educational projects and raising the profile of SF initiatives. For more information, visit www.frommyfarm.co.uk.

Above: Charlotte Falkingham (left) with Sarah Lyon and rhubarbgrower Janet Oldroyd Hume at the filming of From My Farm Video Recipes.

Ria Jackson on 0207 0991132, or email r.jackson@slowfood. org.uk. With freshers’ week upon us, there is no better time to get your new group started!

Let them drink… PERRY! The Slow Food Ark of Taste aims to draw attention to and preserve excellent food and drink products that are disappearing. Three Counties Perry – made in Herefordshire, Worcestershire, Gloucestershire and parts of Monmouthshire using genuine perry pears – joined the Ark in 2004 in response to dwindling numbers of producers. Real perry has its roots in the West Midlands, where it’s been made for more than 400 years.

The traditional drink uses fruit from slow-growing trees, is tricky to harvest and needs slow fermentation. As a result larger-scale producers have given it a wide berth, which has led to endangered-species status. Its entry into the Ark has given perry added status and brought it to the attention of more people, helping to ensure its survival. To find out more go to www.threecountiesperry.co.uk.

We’ve recently come across a Leicestershire/ Northamptonshire perry producer – Mark Shirley of Rockingham Forest Cider. Go to www. rockinghamforestcider.blogspot.com for more information.

HOW TO JOIN SLOW FOOD By joining Slow Food you help support the growth of the movement and its projects – in developing countries and here in the UK. For more information about Slow Food UK and Slow Food International, go to www.slowfood.org.uk. You can join online or by calling 0207 0991132. Family membership costs £45 per year.

Coming next in the Slow Food diary...

Leicester Cathedral Slow Harvest takes place on October 30, 9am-3pm. Held in conjunction with Slow Food Rutland and Lincolnshire, the cathedral will host up to 25 stalls.

There’ll be food demos, tastings and workshops, and a traditional paysanne soup and bread lunch.

Leicester Cathedral, 21 St Martins, LE1 5DE, claire.recordon@ leccofe.org

Fresh, local and seasonal food at Barnsdale Lodge Barnsdale Lodge Hotel is set in a unique rural location in the heart of the glorious Rutland countryside with views of undulating hills and Rutland Water.

• Morning coffee, lunch, afternoon tea & dinner • Delicious food prepared with fresh locally sourced, seasonal ingredients including beef from Hambleton Farm, berries and asparagus from Manton Farm and Rutland Water trout • Private dining • Weddings • Conferences • Exclusive hire of the whole hotel possible • Vicienté Beauty treatment & therapy room

Swithland Spring Water are celebrating 10 successful years of bottling – particularly for the water cooler market – and now bottling Sparkling and Still water into elegant 750ml glass bottles.

Tel: 01509 891189 www.swithlandspringwater.co.uk

The Avenue, Rutland Water, Nr Oakham, Rutland LE15 8AH enquiries@barnsdalelodge.co.uk

www.barnsdalelodge.co.uk

p45_GF_SeptOct10.indd Sec1:45

23/8/10 11:25:49

OUT & ABOUT

Stapleford Park, Stapleford STAPLEFORD PARK Stapleford, near Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire LE14 2EF, www.staplefordpark.com, 0572 787000, Double House Rooms from £288

CUISINE: British/European PRICE PER HEAD: £35-£45 (Casual Dining Menu – three courses and drinks) KIDS WELCOME: Yes DOGS: Yes – but only in ‘public’ areas CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Yes, lots CASUAL DINING MENU TIMES: Mon-Sun, 11.30-2.30pm, 5.30-9.30pm

REVIEW BY EMMA ANSELL

S

tapleford Park is a sporting estate and house situated a few miles from Melton Mowbray. Its 500 acres were landscaped by Capability Brown in the 18th century, while the house was part of Plantagenet kingmaker John O’Gaunt’s estate in the 14th Century. It’s a grand, historic setting and a gem to have on the doorstep.

Stapleford has just introduced a Casual Dining Menu, so we went to try it out.

You feel like you are slipping into a Jane Austen novel as you drive through the estate, past Stapleford’s St Mary Magdalene chapel, to the grand entrance.

Heading through to the bar and lounge to sit in plush opulence with a pre-dinner glass of wine, we were presented with what’s billed as a more informal menu.

Casual dining here is available seven days

Reviewers From left: Philippa, an

investment manager from Melton; Emma, mum of two from Kirby Bellars and writer of this review; Chris, Emma’s husband, chef and bookseller.

a week on the Terrace, in the Lounge or in the Old Kitchen. All three are intimate and relaxed spaces, despite the imposing grandeur of Stapleford as a whole.

“My lamb was perfectly cooked with a tasty jus and ratatouille side – simple food cooked well is always a winner.”

Chris Ansell, ex-chef at

Hambleton Hall

Stapleford estate is loaded with history.

46 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Restaurant review

If you’ve got room, the chocolate pud is great.

The Stapleford Burger doesn’t leave anything to the imagination.

“Arriving at Stapleford Park is like slipping into a Jane Austen novel.”

The casual menu is simpler and more stripped back than the fine dining menu.

The choice is deliberately limited, but there is enough to suit all palates.

Dining in splendor at Stapleford.

Out comes the food

Our group of four, looking forward to an evening feast, selected starters, mains and desserts. First course included a lush pea soup, potato celeriac and goat’s cheese roulade, vegetable spring rolls, and olives, oils and breads. All were excellent: the homemade pesto that came with the breads (served in an intriguing box with a lid) was addictively flavoursome, and the pea soup light and fresh.

Mains consisted of two enormous Stapleford burgers, lamb chump with a side of roast ratatouille, and tuna steak.

You order sides – £3 each – separately.

Servings were generous but younger appetites are catered for with a sandwich selection, plus pasta and pizza choices.

With cappuccino crème brûlèe and warm chocolate cake with ice cream on offer, desserts could hardly be missed.

TURN T PAGE 5O 1

FOR A RUTL COUNT AND RY REVIEWPUB

Ice creams, sorbets and a cheese board were also available. My dining partners’ verdicts were all positive: “The lamb was perfectly cooked with a tasty jus and ratatouille side – simple food cooked well is always a winner,” said Chris, who happens to be an ex-Hambleton Hall chef. “Fresh, plentiful food in spacious, luxurious surroundings,” was Philippa’s verdict.

Addictive luxury

On your marks... start

This potato, celeriac and goat’s cheese roulade starter looks and tasted great. It might be the Casual Dining Menu, but food presentation matches Stapleford’s outstanding surroundings.

The service, cooking, presentation and flavours all lived up to Stapleford’s surroundings, as did the price tag.

Stapleford Park is a very highly recommended dining experience and you will want to return. The gourmet evenings, Sunday lunches and afternoon teas provide plenty of opportunities to slip that return in.

Casual Dining Menu Samples STARTERS Potato, celeriac & goat’s cheese roulade £6.25 Mini veg spring rolls £6.75 MAINS Stapleford burger £13.95 With cheese, bacon and chip s

Open lasagne £12.75

Vegetarian with wild mushroo ms

Rib eye steak (8oz) £14.75 DESSERTS Cappuccino crème brûlée £8 Cheese selection £10.50

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 47 21

LOCAL PUBS Menu samples

Hercules Inn, Sutton Cheney CUISINE: Local British.

PRICE PER HEAD: £25-£40 (for three courses and drinks).

KIDS WELCOME: Yes. DOGS: Yes. CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Yes, under the arch to the rear.

TIMES: Tues-Sat 12.30-2.30pm & 6.309.30pm. Mon 6.30-9.30pm. Sun 12.30-3.20pm

T

he Hercules is a coaching inn situated in pretty Sutton Cheney. It’s 50% pub (the bit to the right of the arch in the photo) and 50% restaurant. It has a Warks postcode but is in fact well within Leicestershire, lying a couple of miles south of Market Bosworth.

In the long pub/bar area, many original features have been retained and the decor is unfussy. There are dark wooden beams, cream walls, wood floors and wooden dining tables with upright, high-backed chairs. If you want extra comfort there’s a leather sofa.

The Hercules prides itself on designing its menu around seasonally available foods and sourcing ingredients as locally as possible. An impressive array of independent suppliers are listed on the menu, including Long Clawson Dairy (cheese), Fox Covert Farm of Stoke

With pearl barley and smoked bacon risotto & caramelised apples

Charcuterie board £9 DESSERTS Eton Mess £5.50 With homemade honey ice cream

Golding (rare-breed livestock), Gopsall Farm of Norton-Juxta-Twycross (ice cream) and Hill Farm of Fenny Drayton (potatoes).

Before wading into the standard starters and mains, it’s worth familiarising yourself with the specials and contemplating the Deli Boards (mix-and-match savoury platters, from charcuterie to fish). We eventually decided on a tiger prawn cocktail to start, which turned out to be fresh and tasty. The lemon and thyme marinated sardines being wolfed down on a nearby table looked very good, too.

For mains we opted for the goat’s cheese and sun-dried tomato gnocchi – a bit of a risk as gnocchi can have Play-Doh-like characteristics – and pan-roast, free-range stuffed chicken. The gnocchi, served with

Lyddington

48 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

spinach and black olive tapenade, was delicious and had enough flavour and variety to keep it interesting. The chicken was very tasty but some may prefer a juicy breast.

Service at the Hercules is quick and friendly, and the food good. Some main dishes could be a little more competitively priced but there are plenty of options.

THE HERCULES INN Main Street, Sutton Cheney, Leicestershire CV13 0AG, 01455 292591 www.thehercules.co.uk

Menu samples STARTERS Pea and mint soup £4.95 Chicken liver parfait £5.95 With fig chutney

CUISINE: Modern British.

PRICE PER HEAD: £30-£45 (for three courses and drinks).

KIDS WELCOME: Yes. DOGS: Yes, but only in the bar area.

CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Yes, to the rear.

FOOD TIMES: Tues-Sat 12-2.30pm and 6.30-10pm; Sun 12-3pm & 6-9pm. Breakfast also served Tues-Sun. he Marquess of Exeter is a pub, restaurant and hotel in picturesque Lyddington, Rutland. It reopened in May 2009 under the management of Brian Baker, who is a very well-regarded local chef.

The atmosphere is intimate, sophisticated and warm and there are many original features to feast your eyes on. We did not have time to explore the gardens but what we did see looked lovely, including the pub’s own vegetable patch and small pig pen.

We started with drinks in the buzzing bar and immediately got a sense of space. At no point did we feel shoe-horned in, despite there being a full house and lots of opportunity for fascinating people-watching!

Among our number were two people with an intolerance to gluten, and the young lady

With tomato crostinis and horseradish crème fraiche

Confit duck £5.75 MAINS Local Tamworth Sandy rare-breed pork, £13.95

The Marquess of Exeter,

T

STARTERS Lemon & thyme marinated sardines £5.50

MAINS Tarragon chicken £11.75 Grilled flat iron steak in ‘Cafe de Paris’ butter £12.50 With pommes frites and green salad

Slow-roast lamb £25.50 (Sharing dish for two) Shoulder, with spring greens & boulangère potatoes

who took our order was clued-up as to which dishes were suitable for coeliac sufferers.

The pea and mint soup was delicious and my fellow diners were also delighted with their various fresh and tasty choices. I opted for the tart of tomatoes with black olives, buffalo mozzarella and basil, and it was fabulous.

Other members of our party selected tarragon chicken with wild rice, and the pan-roasted fillet of sea bass, which they all thoroughly enjoyed. We drank a few bottles of crisp, white wine and alas I don’t remember my dessert with total clarity but I am pretty sure my hot chocolate and pine-nut pudding was excellent.

All the food is lovingly prepared and cooked to order using fresh ingredients. On my next visit I will be trying one of the speciality sharing dishes and perhaps a nip of the homemade sloe gin I spotted behind the bar.

DESSERTS Homemade Kesar mango sorbet £4.95

Other than the food, I also enjoyed the sense of space the management has made every effort to maintain. A few members of waiting staff could have been a little more charming but this did not detract from a lovely evening.

The food and atmosphere really was excellent.

It is worth pointing out that ‘The Marquess Snug’ can take parties of up to 14 people.

THE MARQUESS OF EXETER 52 Main Street, Lyddington, near Uppingham, Rutland LE15 9LT, 01572 822 477, www.marquessexeter.co.uk Double rooms from £87.50 including breakfast.

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LEICESTERSHIRE FOOD LINKS Sallie Hooper Sallie is co-ordinator for Leicestershire Food Links, a co-operative set up to help local food producers get in touch with consumers.

There’s not a lot she doesn’t know about Leics food.

Beer, baking and falling fruit Leicestershire Food Fortnight is here. Get set for dough-kneading, pie-raising, spoon-making and DIY brewing, says Sallie Hooper

A

s autumn knocks at our doors and wild food and windfalls are abundant, local food lovers have an extra treat in store with the return of Leicestershire Food Fortnight. The fortnight will run simultaneously alongside British Food Fortnight but has a very local focus, with around 70 events running from September 18 to October 3 within Leicestershire, culminating with the East Midlands Food Festival at Brooksby Melton College on October 2-3.

Events range from a tea dance at Kilworth House Hotel near Lutterworth to spoon-making at Beacon Hill Country Park near Woodhouse Eves. There’s a homemade beer and wine competition in Coalville and an exhibition of Food Futures at Snibston Discovery Park. Further details and upto-date event news can be found on the Go Leicestershire website – www.goleicestershire.com/foodfortnight.

Sallie, Aaron and Ruth on Street Market Chefs.

Fun with Leicestershire Food Links Leicestershire Food Links, the organisation for which I am co-ordinator, will also be joining in by holding two special events on Saturday, September 25. The first will celebrate the 50th Farmers’ Market run at Blaby & District Social Centre with DIY pizza-making and music.

Our second event is a Speciality Baking Course at Whetstone Pastures Farm (www.whetstonepasturesfarm. com). Would-be bakers will be taught the mysteries of sour dough and have fun forming olive oil focaccia. There will also be tips from our resident baker, Dilly Boase, and lessons using the on-site wood-fired oven. Dilly has just returned from a two-month tour of Italy under a bursary awarded by the Geoffrey Roberts Trust to research Italian baking. The course includes a full day of baking and costs £75 with all ingredients provided, plus a delicious local lunch.

CONTACT If you have a passion for local food and would like to know more about Leics Food Links, contact Sallie on 01509 881386 or visit www. leicestershire foodlinks.org.uk.

Enjoy pizza-making at Blaby & District Social Centre on September 25.

September sees new FIVE series Street Market Chefs hit the air, with two shows filmed earlier in the year at Leicester Market (see p28). I was fortunate to be one of the judges alongside Ruth Wakeling of Bouverie Lodge Farm, Nether Broughton, famous for its delicious bison and venison, and Michelin-starred chef Aaron Patterson from Hambleton Hall, who possibly knows everything there is to know about food and certainly taught me some new ideas.

Submit your homebrewed beers for judging...

MORE LEICESTERSHIRE FOOD FORTNIGHT EVENTS

September 18-19

September 25

September 25

September 30

Belgrave Hall gardens host this annual fair, now in its fifth year – £1 entry (children free).

Where? Belgrave Hall, Church Road, Belgrave, Leicester LE4 5PE Contact: 0116 2666590

Matchless Homebrewing invite enthusiasts to submit their concoctions for judging.

Where? West End Club, Ashby Road, Coalville LE67 3LD Contact: 01530 813800, www. matchlesshomebrewing.co.uk

The art of hand-raising an authentic Melton Mowbray pork pie.

Where? Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe, 10 Nottingham Street, Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire, LE13 1NW Contact: 01664 482068, www.porkpie.co.uk

Live cookery demos and workshops devoted to classic wartime recipes at Britain’s biggest covered market.

Where? Leicester Market Contact: 0116 2232373, www.leicestermarket.co.uk

BELGRAVE HALL GOOD FOOD FAIR: Beautiful

50 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

HOME-BREW COMPETITION

DICKINSON & MORRIS PORK PIE DEMONSTRATION

YOUR MARKET NEEDS YOU!

Out & about

The Finch’s Arms Hambleton, Rutland

WORDS & PHOTOS: MATT GREGORY & MATT WRIGHT

CUISINE: British with European influences.

PRICE PER HEAD: £35-£45 (for three courses and drinks).

KIDS WELCOME: Yes. DOGS: Only in the small front garden.

CUSTOMER CAR PARKING: Good-sized car park at the front of the pub and ample onroad parking at busy times.

FOOD TIMES: Mon to Sat 12-2pm and 6.30-9pm; Sun 12-8pm.

EXCELLENT AL FRESCO DINING

H

ardly a hidden gem, but the Finch’s Arms on the Hambleton peninsular in Rutland is still worth the trek. Surrounded as it is by Rutland Water, it occupies a unique position and has fantastic views from its terrace across the north arm of the water to Barnsdale. The perimeter track of the peninsular offers the perfect way to work up a thirst or appetite, but no excuse is really needed to drop in for a pint or a bite.

Menu samples STARTERS

on crème Smoked salmon and lem fraiche £6.50 wasabi Seared fillet of beef with dressing £7.50

MAINS

creamed Honey roast duck breast, ato £14 celeriac and sweet pot with basil Grilled fillet of sea bream es £14 sag sau rizo cho and mash

DESSERTS

t tart with Chocolate and hazelnu vanilla ice cream £6 mble with Apple and raspberry cru .50 £5 m crea pouring

The Finch’s Arms dates back to the 17th century.

A pub of three parts, the front is in archetypal village pub territory, complete with open fire, uneven flagstone floor and a few rosy-faced regulars. It’s a very good place for a pint and packet of crisps. The back of the Finch’s is a bright and airy restaurant with no hint of pitchforks on the walls. The terrace, even if the weather is a little on the grey side, is quite special for the view, and is frequently the only area that

WINE HIGHLIGHTS Ten or more are available by the glass.

Bottles available from £14.95.

Pick of wines by the bottle: White: Picpoul De Pinet 2008, Domaine Félines-Jourdan, Languedoc £32.95 Red: Crianza 2005, Pagos De Araiz, Spain £16.95

might have a bit of space to sit down. A rolling selection of guest beers from the four normally available, always including at least one from the Grainstore Brewery in Oakham, are likely to include one of the following: Phipps IPA, Black Sheep, Grainstore 1050 and Timothy Taylor Landlord.

The kitchen uses some local producers including Grasmere Farm, Hambleton Fine Foods and Hambleton Bakery. ‘Bar’ versions of many dishes are available at slightly cheaper prices than the à la carte. Set lunches – two courses for £11, three for £14.95. If you are vegetarian or gluten intolerant then the kitchen is happy to accommodate. Q

THE FINCH’S ARMS Oakham Road, Hambleton, Rutland LE15 8TL 01572 756575, www.finchsarms.co.uk

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 51

LOCAL FRUIT

A Burton Pippin a day...

Many towns used to have their own distinct apple varieties. Two fruit fans are trying to revive them

T

oday we’re used to supermarket-bought Galas, Fujis or Pink Ladies. But before mass-produced, imported apples invaded our fruit bowls, we ate knobbly spheres with fantastic names like Foxton’s Delight or Langton’s Nonesuch. Villages and towns were supplied by nearby orchards that grew local varieties, each with their own flavour, colour and texture. Lutterworth residents of the 1920s might have enjoyed a Martin’s Custard, while Melton Mowbrians would have chomped on Annie Elizabeths.

Now that many of us are recognising the value of good food produced locally, awareness of heritage apples is growing. It would be tragic if these wonderful

varieties were to die out, never to be seen – or tasted – again.

Luckily, Melanie Wilson from Seagrave and Nigel Deacon from Croft are working hard to record, preserve and re-introduce local apples as part of their Leics Heritage Apples Project.

“At first, Mel used mainstream reference books and found about a dozen local varieties,” says Nigel. “Then she looked in 19th century tomes written by fruit experts like Robert Hogg and George Lindley, and sifted through ancient nursery catalogues and magazines.

Finally she used old maps, looking for orchards, and went through parish records.”

Melanie and Nigel now have a list of about 30 Leicestershire

“A LeicesterBurton Pippin was found on the outskirts of Derby, while Langton’s Nonesuch turned up in a garden in Germany, of all places” Mel and Nigel among the apples at Hose Community Orchard.

Baked apples: decore, stuff with dried fruit, butter and sugar, bake for an hour on low heat.

Martin’s Custard with that?

52 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

apples. A dozen or so were already available through specialist nurseries, but did the others still exist? If so, would Mel and Nigel be able to find them, and, more importantly, recognise them?

Name that apple “It’s possible to identify apple types using written descriptions,” says Nigel. “You can also re-graft from old, diseased trees and look at the normal-looking fruit as it appears on the young tree.

“Some lost varieties have been located and identified with reasonable certainty. A 150-yearold Martin’s Custard tree (see opposite) was found on an old Leicestershire estate, while Belvoir Seedlings and Sweetings were spotted in private gardens.

“A Leicester-Burton Pippin – also known as French Codlin – was found on the outskirts of Derby, while Langton’s Nonesuch turned up in a garden in Germany, of all places. Trees of all these will be available soon.”

However, the quest to find local heritage apples can be testing.

“An apple from Foxton, Leicestershire, has proved elusive,” says Nigel. “Rumour told us it was known as Foxton’s Favourite and was a small, green cooking apple. People in Foxton told us they had the apple in their gardens but when we looked at the trees none matched.”

Melanie’s and Nigel’s work is preserving a fascinating part of local culinary history and – who knows? – maybe one day Martin’s Custards will replace Braeburns in our fruit bowls.

Nigel and Melanie’s website is at www.heritageorchard.co.uk.

Heritage varieties LEICESTERSHIRE HERITAGE APPLES

12

Nigel Deacon and Melanie Wilson introduce six types of Leicestershire apple

Belvoir Seedling

Calla Colossus

This was raised by WH Divers, head gardener at Belvoir Castle in 1935. Fruits are firm with little acidity and the parentage is Dumelow’s Seedling crossed with Annie Elizabeth – both fine old Leicestershire apples.

The Belvoir Seedling exists in the National Fruit Collection but has virtually died out in gardens.

34

Foxton’s Delight

This apple provides a puzzle: it’s a small cooking apple found only in the Leics village of Foxton. On visiting three supposedly authentic trees, however, none matched. The tree is said to root easily from cuttings.

The three Foxton ‘suspects’ have been grafted so we will probably select the best and christen it ‘Foxton’s Delight’.

LeicesterBurton Pippin

A small, ribbed cooker, not as sharp as Bramley,thought to be lost but rediscovered in Derby in 2009; also known as the ‘French Codlin’. Robert Hogg wrote of it: “…skin, quite smooth, pale straw colour, sometimes with a faint tinge of blush.

An early cooking apple, of pretty appearance; ripe in mid-August. It is common in the districts round Derby.”

An apple of remarkable appearance, discovered near Foxton in 2009 on an ancient tree that we describe as one of our ‘Leicestershire Unique Seedlings’. It is an extremely large dual-purpose apple, with excellent flavour and some acidity. It would be good for cooking, eating, and cider. We had no way of identifying it so named it after one of our helpers, Michael Callaghan.

5

6

Langton’s Nonesuch

According to Robert Hogg, the 19th century fruit expert, this is a cooking apple of first-rate quality; ripe in September and continuing during October. It is an abundant and early bearer, with attractive fruit. It originated in Church Langton, but has been absent from Britain for a century.

We located a tree in Germany, and seedlings should be available soon.

Martin’s Custard

An early to mid-season apple thought to be extinct but rediscovered and identified in 2005. Medium-sized, attractive fruit; not as sharp as Bramley. The only known mature example of Martin’s Custard can be found in the orchard of the Cotesbach Estate, Leicestershire.

CONTACTS & INFO

Brogdale (home of the National Fruit Collection), www.brogdale.org; Common Ground (Apple Day project organiser and community orchards campaigner), www.commonground.org.uk, 01747 850820; Stamford Juice Company (apple juice from heritage varieties), www.stamfordjuice.co.uk; Transition Leicester Food Group (who have purchased an apple press and pasteuriser), www.transitiontowns.org/Leicester/Applepress, 0116 2899074.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 53

GROWING FOOD Clive Simms Clive from Essendine in Rutland is an expert on growing fruit and nuts. If you want to learn how to manage mulberry, harvest hawthorn or cultivate cherries, Clive’s your man…

Grapevines Hardier than you might think and rewarding to grow, says Clive Simms

G

Want to know more?

Clive has written a series of guides to growing common and unusual fruits and nuts.

They contain years of knowledge and cost £3.50. Buy at www. orchardhousebooks. com. Clive also holds talks and runs courses – www.clivesimms.com.

rapevines are thought to have been introduced to Britain by the Romans, and by the time of the Norman Conquest many monasteries had their own small vineyards. Later, they became a highstatus fruit of the wealthy who grew them under glass in conservatories or vine-houses. The famous Black Hamburg vine planted in 1769 at Hampton Court Palace still survives as a fine example of this tradition.

The popularity of grapes reached a zenith during the Victorian period, when affordable glass and cheap energy allowed gardeners with more restricted budgets to grow greenhouse vines. Unfortunately, this emphasis on underglass production has led to a popular misconception that grapevines are tender plants that must be protected from the British weather. Nothing could be further from the truth. They are perfectly hardy, but the old traditional varieties of grape grown here require a long, hot summer to ripen their crop, hence the necessity of cultivating them under glass to extend the season.

Fortunately, both the European grape (Vitis vinifera) and its American cousin (Vitis labrusca) have attracted the attention of the plant breeders, who’ve produced many new disease-resistant and short-season grapevines suitable for growing outdoors in the UK. There are many to choose from but names to look out for include the European-type grapes – Muscat Bleu, Phoenix and Regent – and the American types – Himrod and Lakemont. Both of these American vines bear seedless grapes.

Modern grapes are quite easy plants to cultivate and may be grown either in a greenhouse or outdoors in a sunny, sheltered spot. However, they’re climbing plants and need pruning and training over some sort of supporting structure. This needn’t be anything

54 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

more complicated than a simple wooden or plastic trellis and they’re an excellent choice for covering a pergola to give summer shade.

Outdoor grapes ripen in late September and early October. Eat them fresh or make them into wine if you have enough fruit and time. They also freeze well and partially-thawed grapes folded into yoghurt or cream make a very easy and tasty dessert.

Grapes in Leicestershire There are three relatively well-known commercial vineyards on south-facing slopes in or just outside Leicestershire – Eglantine near Loughborough, Welland Valley near Market Harborough, and Chevelswarde near Lutterworth.

All three grow a vine imported from Europe called Madeleine Angevine, as well as other varieties including Rondo and MüllerThurgau. Eglantine was planted in 1979, Welland Valley in 1991 and Chevelswarde in 1973.

If you are interested in getting a vine to grow yourself it’s worth speaking to these vineyards for advice. They may also offer vine cuttings.

You don’t need a greenhouse to grow grapes.

USEFUL CONTACTS & LINKS Chevelswarde Organic Vineyard, South Kilworth: www.chevelswardeorganics.co.uk, 01858 575309 Eglantine Vineyard, Costock: www.eglantinevineyard.com, 01509 852386 Leicestershire Heritage Apple Project (information on wine growing and making): www.heritageorchard.co.uk Welland Valley Vineyard, Marston Trussell, near Market Harborough: www.welland-vineyard.com, 01858 434591

Ever wante to kee d p pig bu your own t don ’t the la have nd - w the an e have swer.. .

piggy ter your f a k o lo we For a monthly fee we will do all the hard work - feeding piglet, and generally making sure he/ she has a good life in our lovely woodland. You can visit your pig if you wish, feed him, and and see what ’s involved in looking after a rarebreed porker.

At about 26 weeks old, we make the arrangements with a local, family-run, butcher to supply you with your succulent, additive-free, rare-breed pork and sausages. It ’s as easy as that! And you ’ll be helping to maintain a rare breed too.

Saddleback and Mangalitza piglets also for sale.

01780 720660 WWW.CHATERVALLEY.COM

W

e would like to welcome you to our shop in the heart of Melton Mowbray. Our aim is to bring you the finest cheese and dairy produce, much of it sourced in Leicestershire and surrounding counties; as well as the best from the UK, and a growing variety of continental cheeses.

Our cheeses from the local area include the complete Long Stilton is our speciality, ours Clawson range, Quenby Hall Stilton, is sourced directly from Long Lincolnshire Poacher, Godminster Clawson Dairy, based just five Organic Vintage Cheddar, Stafford miles outside Melton Mowbray.

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LOCAL PLACES VISIT, EAT, DRINK

UPPINGHAM

It’s raining food and drink in Rutland’s pretty second town

I

f there were a UK towns league for high-quality food and drink sold per square foot, Uppingham would be a title contender. It’s compact but bursting at its pretty seams with good-looking refuelling stations. There are cafes, tea rooms, delis and pubs... few towns so easily bring to mind images of American tourists drooling “awww, how quaint”.

Uppingham is dominated by its public school, built in 1584, which has a long list of famous ex-pupils, including television chef Rick Stein, motor racer Sir Malcolm Campbell, William Henry Pratt (aka Boris Karloff), Stephen Fry and, er, Charlie Simpson from boyband Busted.

Mary Lloyd has lived in Uppingham for 47 years. “The town is small yet

holds so much,” she says. “Eating and drinking places abound. For a laidback coffee, I enjoy Baines Tea Room and the Garage Deli, where you can buy pizza from their wood-fired oven.

“To eat out you can choose from an excellent Chinese restaurant – Choi’s – the charming Lake Isle or The Garden Hotel. Two lively pubs, The Crown and The Vaults, also offer good food.”

“ T he town is small yet holds so much – for a laid-back coffee I enjoy the Garage Deli, where you can buy pizza from their wood-fired oven” “St Peter and St Paul’s is central to the town,” says Mary Lloyd.

Uppingham school.

56 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Visit, eat, drink

Try these...

The Garage Deli 2 Stockerston Road, LE15 9UD Great addition to the town with woodfired pizza oven, deli counter, cakes, cafe, cookery demos and cookery classes. “In my opinion The Garage Deli serves Uppingham’s best cup of coffee,” says long-term town resident Maureen Sumner. “It’s got a relaxed atmosphere, the salads are good and the chocolate brownies are simply to die for.” web: www.garagedeli.co.uk tel: 01572 823247

Lake Isle Hotel & Restaurant 16 High Street East, LE15 9PZ Stylish restaurant in the town centre.

“The wine list is great and several are sold by the half-bottle,” says Nick Grindley, who runs Uppingham Antiques Centre. “We ate here recently when a promotion was on – it was really good value. If the weather’s nice you can eat out on the new terrace.” web: www.lakeisle.co.uk tel: 01572 822951

Don Paddy’s 8 Market Place, LE15 9QH Friendly wine bar in the Market Place that serves highly-rated food. Loved by locals and visitors alike. web: www.donpaddys.com tel: 01572 822255

The Garden Hotel 16 High Street West, LE15 9QD “I often recommend The Garden Hotel to friends if they come to Uppingham for the weekend,” says Maureen. “It’s homely – a proper English hotel serving proper English food.” web: www.gardenhotel.uk.com tel: 01572 822352

Hoagies Sandwich Bar

The Garage Deli has a wood-fired pizza oven.

7 Orange St, LE15 9SQ Owned by a local butcher so the meat fillings – especially the sausages – are said to be very good. tel: 01572 823003

Beans Café 3 High Street East, LE15 9PY “Relaxed, friendly and good value,” says Maureen. web: www.beanscoffeestop.co.uk tel: 01572 823953

Nelsons Butchers 12 High Street East, LE15 9PZ There are Nelsons outlets in Stamford, Oakham and Uppingham. All have a good reputation. They make their own pork pies, which can’t be bad. web: www.nelsonsbutchers.co.uk tel: 01572 823331

The Vaults

Don Paddy’s (top) and Hoagies Sandwich Bar.

4 Market Place, LE15 9QH “Good pub food, professionally run,” says Nick. “The Vaults has a nice outdoor terrace where you can sit, relax and watch the Market Place.” web: www.thevaultsuppingham.co.uk tel: 01572 823259

The Olive Kitchen & Crêperie Printers’ Yard, LE15 9PZ Tucked away in Printers’ Yard, Olive Kitchen opened in May and is run by Anthony Savage, who regularly has a stall at Oakham and Uppingham markets. His new shop specialises in olives, crêpes, Belgian waffles, paella (Friday and Saturday lunchtimes), apple juice and milkshakes. web: www.theolivekitchen.co.uk tel: 01572 822588

Newish arrival – The Olive Kitchen.

Let us know your favourite places by emailing editorial@greatfoodleics.co.uk

Watercolour by Graham Wright For information on the artist, please email.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 57

PUB WALK

View of Medbourne from the hill en route to Nevill Holt.

LOCAL PUB WALK

The walk

PARK ON MAIN ST, Medbourne, near the village hall. Find the church and head up Rectory Lane, opposite, which turns into a grassy path. Go through two gates, cross the road and walk up through the fields opposite – go diagonally right and walk towards a faintly visible faded yellow marker.

1

GO OVER THE STILE, turn left and walk uphill towards the buildings. On reaching the farm, go over the stile and through the yard of Nut Bush, straight on to the yellow marker. It feels like you’re walking through someone’s backyard, but it is a public footpath. Just before the farm’s main entrance, take the path through the field on the right to reach the road. Hop over the wall – don’t worry, it’s not high – turn right and walk along the road to Nevill Holt, going through the large gates.

2

Medbourne and Hallaton, South-East Leics

Two great pubs, four fascinating villages, one museum… this well-marked 7.5-mile circular walk is one of the county’s finest

Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright. AM44/10.

I

n a county full of pretty villages, This exceptional walk allows you to Medbourne and Hallaton are two of explore both Medbourne and Hallaton, Leicestershire’s most attractive. With their lovely pubs, and the villages of Nevill its burbling brook, 14th century Holt and Blaston, too. church and village shop, Medbourne is about as cream tea English as you can get.

OVERVIEW OF AREA Someone’s put a dovecote in the pub car park – that’s just the sort of place it is.

Hallaton, just a few miles north, is equally pleasant, with all sorts of fascinating features like old village water pumps, a green with 17th century buttercross, and a Manor House. Hallaton is just as steeped in history as its village rival (these two like a bit of rough and tumble – see opposite) and both places are the stuff of archeologists’ fantasies, with evidence of substantial Roman settlements found on their doorsteps.

Being close to the Northants Grade 1 listed Nevill Holt Hall dates border, many of the houses in both back to 1300. Writer and political villages are built using honeycoloured Northamptonshire activist Nancy Cunard was born here ironstone, which gives out its in 1896. In 2000 it was restored and trademark warmth. Have a look at a 300-seat theatre added. Opera the picture of the Nevill Arms performances are now commonplace. overleaf if you’re wondering what we’re on about.

58 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Nevill Holt Hall

}

TURN LEFT AT THE END of the road and where the brick wall finishes, go left through a gate to cross an arable field to find a yellow marker. Go into the next field, following the marker arrow, and walk downhill along the edge of the field.

This walk is easy to follow.

Cross Uppingham Road and follow the bridleway sign into another field and towards the next marker.

3

AFTER A STRIP OF trees, go left and through a gap in the hedge, then up the right side of the next field to a marker. Here veer diagonally left across the top field – aim for the solitary tree on the skyline.

At the far corner, drop down to join a track. Here you can shorten the walk by turning left back to Medbourne. Or for the full-length walk, turn right and walk the track into Blaston.

4

Medbourne & Hallaton

Detailed walk map

Picture: Rob Howden

Hare pies and bottle kicking

Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright. AM44/10.

AT INTRIGUING ST GILES church, turn left and follow Hallaton Road for about 1km to the junction at the end. Go straight over and ahead to the next yellow marker before turning right to walk through pasture towards Hallaton.

Follow the yellow posts, aiming first for Hallaton church spire, then to the right of a clump of trees in the middle of the field, and cross a footbridge.

You’ll see this sign after walking 1km along Hallaton Road (Point 5).

GO LEFT THEN SHARPLY right beyond the next stile and follow signs through a housing development. Eventually turn left on to Medbourne Road and go straight on to reach the centre of Hallaton and the Bewicke Arms for a well-earned drink (see overleaf).

6

LEAVE HALLATON VIA an arched passageway underneath a house, just along from the Bewicke Arms, almost opposite the buttercross. Go down the grassy path between two walls, cross a footbridge and go directly up a gently sloping field, going straight on up the hill and aiming just to the right of a wooden fence beneath trees.

GO THROUGH A GATE and turn left for a wide track marked Macmillan Way. Go down the track, and through a gate, before continuing along the edge of two gated fields, then left into a single-track road. Turn right at the first bend and continue along the track.

Not far to go now.

ON REACHING THE corner of the first field, turn left to find the yellow marker. Hop over the stile and go through the fields, following the yellow markers to reach the road. At the road, turn left and head back into Medbourne.

10

So what do I do now?

7

8

AT A ROAD JUNCTION go straight over and down a single-track road.

Around 500yds beyond the old railway bridge, turn left at the bridleway sign.

9

5

Notes: We’ve done this walk and believe the instructions to be clear and accurate.

However, do take a map – OS Explorer 233 – and give yourself enough time.

It’s impossible to mention Medbourne and Hallaton without describing the bizarre custom both villages get stuck into each Easter Monday. Like all the best British traditions, it involves beer, food and a good, old-fashioned scrap.

Called Hare Pie Scrambling and Bottle Kicking, the event essentially consists of teams from Hallaton and Medbourne meeting on a hill and wrestling to get a small barrel over their own boundary stream. The tradition also involves eating hare pie.

The book Hallaton, Hare Pie Scrambling & Bottle Kicking

by John Morison and Peter Daisley has all the details.

Facing the scene below on a walk can be nerve-wracking. Don’t panic and do read the official advice (web link below). Note that dog walkers need to take special care. As a general rule, give cattle as wide a berth as possible and go through another field if you feel it necessary. Cows with calves can be aggressively protective of their young, especially when faced with a dog, so it’s a good idea to avoid them.

Official advice: http://tiny.cc/r1y5a.

Don’t panic!

Hallaton Treasure In 2000, a group of walkers strolling near Hallaton stumbled across a few old coins in a field. After a bit more digging, the field turned out to be hiding one of the most significant Iron Age/ Roman sites to be discovered in recent years.

Some of the oldest coins ever discovered in Britain – dating back to the Iron Age – were pulled from the site, along with 5,500 silver and gold Roman coins and a Roman cavalry helmet.

The story of the treasure haul is currently on display in Hallaton Museum, just a short walk from the village green.

It’s open at weekends and Bank Holidays, 2.30pm-5pm, until the end of October.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 59

PUB WALK

The Nevill Arms, Medbourne

Idyllic pub combined with modern cafe in beautiful location

REFUEL STATION Number 1

W

THE NEVILL ARMS 12 Waterfall Way, Medbourne, Leicestershire, LE16 8EE, 01858 565288 www.the nevillarms.net

ith a pretty brook to the front of the Nevill Arms, this pub is in prime location for a spot of late-summer sun with a pint or glass of wine. There are three ales on offer: Greene King IPA, London Pride and a regularly rotated guest beer, which at the time of writing was Wadsworth 6X. The Nevill Arms has made a real effort to offer more than a traditional pub and this shows in the food – you’re utterly spoilt for choice. There’s a Riverbank Menu for brook-side dining, but – and this is where it gets interesting – you can also get stuck in to a Breakfast Menu, Breakfast Takeaway Menu, Dining Menu, Sunday Lunch Menu, Children’s Menu and Cafe Nevill Menu.

Crikey. Not that we were complaining.

We chose Cafe Nevill – located behind the traditional part of the pub and open from 8am to 4pm every day.

Attaching a cafe to the pub is a great idea as it offers flexibility and a good option for families looking for a fresher, more modern dining experience.

At Cafe Nevill you can choose to sit in the large garden courtyard, where potted flowers abound, or inside, where there’s plenty of comfy seating. Food here is excellent – my Cajun chicken salad (£7.95, pictured) was bursting with juicy, green, herby olives and sundried tomatoes.

Resist the homemade cakes if you can.

The Bewicke Arms, Hallaton

At the heart of the village, offering a tea room for good measure

Cafe Nevill’s Cajun chicken salad.

REFUEL STATION Number 2

T

he Bewicke Arms is located in the centre of Hallaton near the village green and buttermarket. To the rear is a good-sized garden and small children’s play area.

This is another country pub that’s cleverly evolved to cater to a larger market by offering tea, coffee, cakes and snacks alongside beer and more substantial bar meals.

Like its Medbourne counterpart above, the Bewicke Arms has introduced a separate cafe, this one combining a tea room and gift shop. Here, as well as enjoy a cream tea, you can stock up on local jams or browse a small selection of craft-type items. The tea room is located in a separate building to the main pub.

The pub itself is characterful and cosy inside, with exposed beams to match the thatched roof.

Three ales are available, including one guest The scene just – Cornish Doom Bar on last visit. outside the pub.

We ate a very acceptable quiche with salad from the tea room but if you want a larger meal, you won’t be disappointed.

Examples include Dijon pork cutlet in apple and calvados cider cream (£10.95) and pan-roasted sea bream with asparagus and red pepper risotto (£13.95).

Lots of outdoor seating at the Bewicke Arms.

60 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

THE BEWICKE ARMS 1 East Gate, Hallaton, Leicestershire, LE16 8UB, 01858 555217, www.thebewicke arms.co.uk

‘‘The Bewicke Tea Room and Gift Shop sells salads, cream teas and local homemade jams.”

E ve nts

What’s coming up?

September & October

Beer festivals galore, a dusting of flour and some apples

SEPTEMBER

OCTOBER

September 9-11

3RD HINCKLEY BEER FESTIVAL

October 1

Masonic Hall, St. Mary’s Road, Hinckley.

60 beers plus ciders, perries and fruit wines.

Contact: www.hinckleyandbosworth camra.org.uk, 01455 213955

Anstey Methodist Church, The Nook, Anstey.

Homemade, cakes, pies, preserves and crafts.

Contact: 0116 2364295 (Irene).

WOMEN’S INSTITUTE COUNTRY MARKET

rs’ ts F ar me marke Where’s your nearest?

ASHBY DE LA ZOUCH

When? Third Saturday of the month, 10am-2pm Where? Manor House School, LE65 1BR

BLABY When? Fourth Sat of month, 9am-1.30pm Where? Blaby Social Centre, LE8 4GG

September 17-18

MELTON MOWBRAY BEER FESTIVAL

October 2

Cattle Market, Scalford Rd, Melton Mowbray.

More than 40 real ales, ciders and perries.

Contact: www.meltonmowbraymarket.co.uk, 01664 560757

APPLE DAY AT STAMFORD ARTS CENTRE

When? First Sat of month, 9am-1.30pm Where? Windsor St, LE10 2EF

27 St Mary’s Street, Stamford, Lincs.

Apple identification by experts.

Contact: www.scog-web.org.uk

CASTLE DONINGTON

BURBAGE

When? Second Sat of month, 9am-12.30pm Where? St Edward’s School, DE74 2LH

September 18

October 2-3

Sykes Lane, Empingham.

Celebrating Rutland’s finest food and drink – part of Rutland Day. Food demos and more.

Contact: www.discover-rutland.co.uk

Brooksby Hall, Melton Mowbray – see p15.

When? Third Thurs of month, 9am-1.30pm Where? The Market Place, LE10 1NT

September 24-26

October 3

Claybrooke Magna, Lutterworth.

Slow Food Rutland & Lincolnshire event.

Contact: Sarah Lyon, 01780 753772

When? Second Sat of month, 9am-1pm Where? Kibworth High School, Smeeton Rd

THE FIRST RUTLAND FOOD FESTIVAL AT RUTLAND WATER

GREAT CENTRAL RAILWAY BEER FESTIVAL Loughborough Central Station.

Contact: www.gcrailway. co.uk, 01509 230726

September 25-26

ROCKINGHAM CASTLE FOOD & CRAFT FAIR

EAST MIDLANDS FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL

VISIT TO CLAYBROOKE MILL

WANT YOUR EVE APPEANT TO EMAIL ER HERE? ENTS@ GREATV FO LEICS. OD CO.UK

Rockingham Castle, Market Harborough.

Contact: www.oakleighfairs.co.uk/ rockingham, 0800 1412823

October 3

Billesdon Annual Farmers’ Market

Coplow Centre, Billesdon.

Gathering of several producers and growers to promote local food and farmers. Organised by the Sustainable Group.

Contact: 0116 2596872

Maiyango Autumn Gourmet Food Night HOTEL MAIYANGO

13-21 St Nicholas Place, Leicester.

Booking required.

Contact: www.maiyango.co.uk, 0116 2518898

When? Third Sat of month, 9am-1pm Where? Wood St, LE9 7NF

HINCKLEY

KIBWORTH BEAUCHAMP

LEICESTER When? Last Weds of the month, 9am-2pm Where? The Market Place, LE1 5GG

LOUGHBOROUGH When? Second Weds of month, 9am-3pm Where? Devonshire Square, LE11 3DW

LUTTERWORTH When? Second Sat of month, 9am-1.30pm Where? Lutterworth Town Hall Car Park, LE17 4EH

MARKET BOSWORTH When? Fourth Sun of month, 9am-2.30pm Where? Market Square, CV13 0JW

MARKET HARBOROUGH

October 8

When? First Thursday of month, 9am-2pm Where? The Square, LE16 7DR

Northfield Farm, Cold Overton.

From 3pm onwards: award-winning local food and drink sold all afternoon.

Contact: www.northfieldfarm.com, 01664 474271

MELTON MOWBRAY

October 16

When? Third Sat of month, 8am-2pm Where? Gaol Street, LE15 6AQ

THE FOURTH NORTHFIELD FARM CLASSIC CAR & BIKE MEET

September 30

EARL SHILTON

APPLE DAY IN ASHBY DE LA ZOUCH Ashby Farmers’ Market, Manor House School.

Contact: 01530 454769 All events have been checked and are scheduled to take place on the dates listed, but always check before setting off.

When? Every Tuesday and Friday, 8am-noon Where? Scalford Road, LE13 1JY

OAKHAM

STAMFORD When? Every other Friday, 8.30am-3pm Where? Red Lion Square, PE9 1PA

UPPINGHAM When? Second Fri of month, 8am-1pm; and new market now on first Sat of month.

Where? Mercers Yard (Fri); Mkt Place (Sat).

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 61

Farm shop map Great-tasting, fresh food that hasn’t travelled far – what’s not to like about farm shops? But give them a buzz to check opening hours before setting off

Keyworth, Notts

We’re surrounded by fantastic food yet most of us buy produce that’s travelled half way across 7 CHANTRY the country, or even around the world. Any FARM SHOP Melbourne chef will tell you the best-tasting stuff is seasonal, fresh and hasn’t been stored in the back of a lorry or jet plane for hours. The best restaurants tend to source their produce from A42 local farmers for this reason. If you don’t already, why not increase the quality of the food you eat and support local THE MUSHROOM BASKET farmers and businesses by giving Ashby de Packington your local farm shop a go?

23

20

MANOR ORGANIC FARM SHOP Long Whatton

A6

BLACKBROOK TRADITIONAL MEAT

Grace Dieu

Loughborough

3

STONEHURST FAMILY FARM & MUSEUM Mountsorrel

32

la Zouch

Ashley Herb Farm (herb nursery & farm shop) 45 Main St, Ashley, Market Harborough LE16 8HG web: www.ashleyherbfarm.co.uk tel: 01858 565722

MEADOW VIEW FARM Sileby

1

COOK’S FARM SHOP THE CATTOWS FARM SHOP

Newtown Linford

6

Heather

Attfields Farm Shop Countesthorpe Rd, Whetstone LE8 6LD web: www.attfieldsfarmshop.co.uk tel: 0116 2771476

13

Brockleby’s Farm Shop Melton Road, Asfordby Hill LE14 3QU web: www.brocklebys.co.uk tel: 01664 813200

Cook’s Farm Shop Markfield Lane, Newtown Linford LE6 0AB web: www.cooksfarmshop.co.uk tel: 01530 242214

5

10

Brooklea Nursery & Farm Shop 1000 Loughborough Road, Rothley LE7 7NL tel: 0116 2302155 The Cattows Farm Shop Swepstone Road, Heather LE67 2RF web: www.thecattows farmshop.co.uk tel: 01530 264200

6

Chantry Farm Shop Kings Newton Lane, Melbourne, Derbys, DE73 8DD tel: www.chantryfarm.com web: 01332 865698

7

Chevelswarde Organic Growers (including vineyard) Chevel House, The Belt, South Kilworth LE17 6DX tel: 01858 575309

8

62 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

9

THE FAT HEN FARM SHOP Stapleton

GE TOMLINSON AND FAMILY FARM SHOP Stoke Golding

9

Fancourts Farm Shop The Square, Ryhall, Stamford, Lincs PE9 4HJ tel: 01780 762698

37

BROOKLEA NURSERY & FARM SHOP Rothley

TOOLEY PARK FARM SHOP Peckleton

38

Hinckley

Greenacres Farm Shop 1 New Road, Belton-inRutland LE15 9LE web: www.greenacres-farmFields Farm Shop shop.co.uk 12 Farndon Farndon Road, Market tel: 01572 717210 Harborough LE16 9NP web: www.farndonfields 16 Hambleton Farms Fine Foods farmshop.co.uk Gaol St, Oakham LE15 8AQ tel: 01858 464838 web: www.hambleton Hen Farm Shop at farms.co.uk 13 Fat Greenacres Garden Centre tel: 01572 724455 Ashby Rd, Stapleton LE9 8JE Harker’s Farm Shop tel: 01455 290878 17 Blackberry Farm, Farm Shop Wolds Lane, 14 Grange Poacher’s Rest, Clipston, Keyworth NG12 5PB Newstead Lane, web: www.harkers Belmesthorpe PE9 4SA farmshop.co.uk tel: 07711 205507 tel: 0115 9892260

34

5

HIGHFIELD FARM Wigston

18

WOODHOUSE FARM SHOP Elmesthorpe

33

Crossroads Farm Shop Eastwell, Melton Mowbray LE14 4EF tel: 01949 860242

11

22

Leicester

3

4

WOODCOCK FARM Rothley

M1

2

Blackbrook Traditional Meat Springbarrow Lodge Farm, Swannymote Rd, Grace Dieu, near Coalville LE67 5UT web: www.blackbrooklonghorns.com tel: 01509 503276

17

HARKER’S FARM SHOP

ATTFIELDS FARM SHOP

2

Whetstone

M69

15

CHEVELSWARDE ORGANIC GROWERS South Kilworth

MANOR FARM SHOP & TEAROOM Catthorpe

19

8

Farm shop map Bottesford

21

March House Farm Top End, Great Dalby LE14 2HA tel: 01664 563919

Seldom Seen Farm Billesdon LE7 9FA web: www.seldomseenfarm.co.uk tel: 0116 2596742

Meadow View Farm 156 Cossington Road, Sileby LE12 7RT web: www.meadow viewfarm.co.uk tel: 01509 815670

Stamford Farm Shop 2B Gooches Court, Stamford PE9 9FA tel: 01780 767711

29

22

CROSSROADS FARM SHOP Eastwell

10

30

Stamford Garden Centre Farm Shop Road End Farm, Great Casterton, Stamford, Lincs PE9 4BB web: www.stamfordgarden centre.co.uk tel: 01780 765656

31

The Mushroom Basket Lowerfields Farm, Normanton Rd, Packington LE65 1XA web: www.themushroom basket.com tel: 01530 415862

23

Stonehurst Family Farm & Museum Bond Lane, Mountsorrel LE12 7AR web: www.stonehurstfarm.co.uk tel: 01509 413216

32

Northfield Farm Whissendine Lane, Cold Overton LE15 7QF web: www.northfieldfarm.com tel: 01664 474271

24

A46

A607

BROCKLEBYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FARM SHOP

Asfordby Hill

4

MARCH HOUSE FARM Great Dalby

25

21

A606

OAKDALE FARM SHOP Rearsby

Oakham

24

27

FANCOURTS FARM SHOP Ryhall, Stamford

HAMBLETON FARMS

NORTHFIELD FARM Cold Overton

26

GE Tomlinson & Family Farm Shop Station Road, Stoke Golding, Nuneaton CV13 6EU tel: 01455 212199

33

PICKS ORGANIC FARM SHOP Barkby Thorpe

16

Rutland water

SELDOM SEEN FARM Billesdon

Belmesthorpe

STAMFORD GARDEN CENTRE FARM SHOP

GREENACRES FARM SHOP

15

A47

WING HALL FARM SHOP Wing, Oakham

STAMFORD FARM SHOP

1

Uppingham

Tooley Park Farm Shop Peckleton Common Road, Peckleton, Leicester LE9 7RF tel: 01455 822876

34

ASHLEY HERB FARM Ashley

Highfield Farm Newton Lane, Wigston LE18 3SH tel: 0116 2880887

12

Manor Farm Shop & Tearoom Main St, Catthorpe LE17 6DB web: www.manorfarmcatthorpe.co.uk tel: 01788 869002

19

Manor Organic Farm Shop 77 Main St, Long Whatton, Loughborough LE12 5DF web: www.manororganic farm.co.uk tel: 01509 646413

20

Wing Hall Farm Shop Wing, near Oakham, Rutland LE15 8RY web: www.winghall.co.uk tel: 01572 737090

35

Oakdale Farm Shop 1870 Melton Road, Rearsby, LE7 4YS tel: 01664 424300

25

18

30

Stamford, Lincs

A6 WISTOW FARM SHOP Wistow

31

Stamford, Lincs

35

Belton-in-Rutland

FARNDON FIELDS FARM SHOP Market Harborough

14

GRANGE FARM SHOP

28

RUTLAND FARM SHOP Ashwell

ROOTS AT THORPE FARM Barkby Thorpe

29

36

11

Picks Organic 26 Farm Shop The Cottage, Hamilton Grounds, Barkby Thorpe LE7 3QF web: www.picksorganic.co.uk tel: 0116 2693548 Roots at Thorpe Farm King St, Barkby Thorpe LE7 3QE web: www.rootsthorpe farm.co.uk tel: 0116 2692526

27

Rutland Farm Shop Ashwell Road, Ashwell, near Oakham LE15 7QN web: www.rutlandvillage.co.uk tel: 01572 759492

28

Wistow Farm Shop Wistow Rural Centre Kibworth Rd, Wistow LE8 0QF web: www.wistow.com/rural.asp tel: 0116 2590041

36

Woodcock Farm 903 Loughborough Road, Rothley LE7 7NH tel: 0116 2302215

37

Woodhouse Farm Shop 1 Woodhouse Farm, Elmesthorpe, Earl Shilton LE9 7SE web: www.woodhousefarm.co.uk tel: 01455 851242

38

Have we missed a farm shop off the map? Email editorial@ greatfoodleics.co.uk to let us know.

Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland 63

SCADDOWS FARM PYO Ticknall

2

5

M1

A6

12

8

Oadby

A46

A6

15

3

13

Bottesford

RUTLAND WATER PYO Manton

A47

Uppingham

Farm PYO 10 Grange Copston Magna, near Wolvey, Warks LE10 3HE, web: www.grangefarm copston.co.uk tel: 01455 220572

Cattows Farm PYO 9 The Heather, Leics LE67 2RF, web: www.thecattowsfarmshop. co.uk tel: 01530 264200

A606

A607

HOSE COMMUNITY ORCHARD Hose

Billesdon

SELDOM SEEN FARM PYO

Community orchards PYO farms

Wymeswold

WYMESWOLD FRUIT FARM PYO

17

1

BROCKS HILL COMMUNITY ORCHARD

WYMESWOLD COMMUNITY ORCHARD Wymeswold

Leicester

FRANKLIN PARK COMMUNITY ORCHARD Braunstone

16

Catthorpe

MANOR FARM PYO

WHETSTONE PASTURES PYO Whetstone

Ratby

RATBY COMMUNITY ORCHARD

11

4

Community orchard & pick-your-own map 14

A42

9

Ashby de la Zouch

THE CATTOWS PYO Heather

6

M69

10 11

Stretton under Fosse

MALT KILN FARM PYO

Copston Magna

GRANGE FARM PYO

Hinckley

MANOR FARM COMMUNITY ORCHARD Bagworth

DONINGTON LE HEATH MANOR HOUSE ORCHARD Donington le Heath

Visit, support and enjoy these relaxing, fruity places

8

Wymeswold Community Orchard: Washdyke Field, Wymeswold Details: Around 120 fruit trees planted at the tail end of 2007. web: www.wymeswold.com/ leisure.htm

Stamford Community Orchard: End of Christchurch Close, Stamford, Lincs PE9 1HS Details: Grasses and wildflowers as well as apple trees. web: www.scog-web.org.uk

7

Orchards used to be common but the availability of cheaper, imported fruit has meant two-thirds of them have vanished in Britain since 1960. Happily, community orchards appear to be on the rise. Why not visit one while trees are in fruit? For more information, go to www.england-in-particular.info – local pick-your-own fruit farms are also shown on this map.

1

Brocks Hill Community Orchard: Visitor Centre, Brocks Hill Country Park, Washbrook Lane, Oadby LE2 5JJ. Details: Around 170 fruit trees, including apple, pear and cherry. tel: 0116 2572888

2

Donington le Heath Manor House Orchard: Manor Road, Donington le Heath, near Coalville LE67 2FW. Details: Small orchard at the manor house’s historic gardens. web: www.leics.gov.uk/donington tel: 01530 831259

3

Hose Community Orchard: Canal Lane, Hose, near Melton Mowbray, LE14 4JF Details: Quarter-acre orchard planted in the year 2000 on abandoned allotments. web: www.hosevillage.org.uk and click on ‘community’.

4

Franklin Park Community Orchard: Welcombe Avenue, Braunstone, LE3 2TA Details: Around 40 trees in 1.5 acres, plus large meadows area.

Currently holding Open Days but set to fully open to public in 2011. web: http://tinyurl.com/34k53x3 tel: 0116 2899270

5

Manor Farm Community Orchard, Bagworth: Thornton Lane, between Thornton & Bagworth, LE67 1AT Details: Part of an 18-acre site owned by Hinckley & Bosworth Borough Council. web: http://tiny.cc/trugu

6

Ratby Community Orchard: Taverner Drive, off Station Road, Ratby, Leicester LE6 0HQ Details: Half-acre community orchard on the edge of Ratby village, planted in 1998.

Kiln PYO 11 Malt Stretton-under-Fosse, Warks CV23 0PE web: www.maltkilnfarmshop.co.uk tel: 01788 832640

7

Farm PYO 12 Manor Catthorpe, Leics LE17 6DB web: www.manorfarm catthorpe.co.uk tel: 01788 869002

Water PYO 13 Rutland Lodge Farm, Manton, Rutland LE15 8HB tel: 01572 737525

Rutland water

STAMFORD COMMUNITY ORCHARD Stamford

Farm PYO, 14 Scaddows Ticknall, Derbys DE73 7JP web: www.scaddowsfarm.co.uk tel: 01332 865709

Seen Farm PYO 15 Seldom Billesdon LE7 9FA web: www.seldomseenfarm.co.uk tel: 0116 2596742

Pastures PYO 16 Whetstone Whetstone, Leics LE8 6LX web: www.whetstone pasturesfarm.com tel: 0116 2774627

Fruit Farm PYO 17 Wymeswold Wymeswold, Leics LE12 6SE tel: 01509 880230

64 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

SET IN THE IDYLLIC VILLAGE OF WING IN RUTLAND.

James, Ali, David & Gisa welcome one and all to experience authentic artisan country cooking with a modern twist.

W INNERS OF E AST M IDLANDS TASTE A WARD 2009 & 2 AA ROSETTES

HOME TO JIMMY’S SMOKEHOUSE. SMOKERS AND CURERS OF MEAT AND FISH

Top 3 finish in the East Midlands Tourism ‘ 2010 taste awards’

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EMAIL: INFO@THEKINGSARMS-WING.CO.UK

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TOP STREET, WING, RUTLAND LE15 8SE TEL. 01572 737634

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At Lubcloud Dairy, our herd of happy and d healthy organic cows graze out in fields that have had no fertilisers or chemicals used on them. The food that they eat is fully traceable and non GM, and the milk and cream that they produce is bottled here on the farm, resulting in a wonderful, fresh product. We have also chosen not to homogenise our milk or cream, leaving everything as pure as it can be, just as nature intended.

When you buy Lubcloud Dairy products, you are not only supporting local business, as we are organic, you are also supporting the environment too.

BUY FRESH, BUY LOCAL For more information and details of stockists:

www.lubclouddairy.co.uk w www.lubclouddair w bc Tel Tele Te epphone: ep hone: 015 1 09 505055 Telephone: 01509

COME AND TASTE THE DIFFERENCE

The Pantry

From great places to eat to fantastic farm shops to cracking caterers, you’ll find an excellent selection of local foodie services here. To advertise in this section, please contact Andrea Marshall on 01780 754900 or by email a.marshall@bournepublishinggroup.co.uk

ANTIQUES

CAKES

OLD BAKERY ANTIQUES

DELICIOUSLY DIFFERENT CAKES

Kitchen curios from old scales to pottery and much more.

FARMSHOPS

SHOPS/DELIS

HIGHFIELD FARMSHOP

GREETHAM VILLAGE SHOP & POST OFFICE

Family run farmshop, selling home-produced Rare breed pork, sausage, bacon etc. Farm Assured Lamb and Mutton (seasonal), and Barn eggs. We also sell a selection of quality jams, marmalades, chutneys, Maincrop potatoes when in season. Shop is open Wednesday-Saturday, 9am-2pm.

An Aladdin’s Cave selling fascinating old items since 1990 on Main Street, Wymondham LE14 2AG. Tel. 01572 787472

Stamford-based cake maker.

Renowned for bespoke novelty creations from racing cars to frogs!

Weddings, parties and more.

Tel. 01780 762978

BUTCHERS

CATERING

HOG ROAST

JASON’S ORGANIC BUTCHERS

SARA MCALLISTER PROFESSIONAL CATERING

Venison, wild boar, spit roasts, BBQs and so much more. Full catering services including marquee for no extra charge.

Cotesbach Hall, Leicestershire

Offering a good old fashioned, friendly service. Organic meat at its best; simple, natural, locally reared and butchered onsite.

Working with nature to provide you with great tasting meat

Tel. 07754 697577 www.jasonsorganicbutchers.co.uk

CLASSIFIED half.indd 1

Bespoke catering covering the Leicestershire and Rutland areas.

With 20 years’ experience in the industry, Sara’s tailored service adds flair, style and great food to special events.

Tel. 07778 227 734 www.saramcallister.co.uk

Tel: 01162880887 or 07759861357 for availability before you set off. Find us on Newton Lane, Wigston, Leics. LE18 3SH.

Selling Margaret’s Homemade Cakes and more.

A tea garden, too – everything you could need from your friendly village shop.

26 Main St, Greetham, Rutland Tel. 01572 812336

SWEETS & CHOCS SWEET NOTHINGS

Tel. 01572 737581

Homemade confectionary including peppermint creams, coconut ice and a variety of fudge. Handmade gift boxes also available. Based near Melton Mowbray.

Tel. 07951 015502

www.thehogroastservice.co.uk

www.sweetnothings.yolasite.com

Based in Rutland.

We use the finest meats available.

23/8/10 13:03:03

NEXT ISSUE

Coming up in Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Guarantee the next issue – subscribe and get a free gift – see p11

Bake it yourself Local cooks reveal their favourite recipes

Beer and cider

Your guide to the finest local brews to get you through winter

Have a very LOCAL (whisper it) Christmas!

Your bumper guide to Leicestershire & Rutland’s finest festive food and drink * The best local products * Pudding recipes from top chefs * Alternative Christmas feasts * Where to eat out * Gift ideas (We feel guilty for mentioning the ‘C’ word so early – sorry!)

Bonfire night treats How to make toffee apples, sweets, perfect jacket spuds and more...

The Nov/Dec issue is out on November 1

We’ll do our best to run all this in the next issue but food and drink are fickle mistresses.

66 Great Food Leicestershire & Rutland

Proud to be the Official Beer of the Leicester Tigers

WWW.EVERARDS.CO.UK

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27/7/10 15:48:57

“God save strawberry jam and all the different varieties” – The Kinks, 1968 This issue’s back page is sponsored by…

greatfood

www.jamjarshop.com

A Rocco Media magazine

Leicestershire & Rutland

Next issue is out November 1, 2010: to guarantee your copy, turn to p11