Cleveland, p. 24

Martinez explains that although these sour beers undergo a standard fermentation initially, the real challenge of his craft occurs during blending, when he will taste multiple barrels to determine which vessels — and in which proportions — will be combined into a finished beer. Because the blending process is based on his sensory perception, each named beer might change somewhat year to year.

“That’s the magic of it,” he explains. “We get to make impossible beers that can’t be manufactured. I change over time, and I’m the one creating the blends, so I don’t think everything can stay exactly the same. We get to make these small blends, and I think that’s where we shine.”

Visitors to the Pretentious Barrel House taproom get to sit and sip their beer surrounded by the vessels that hold this magic, and Martinez hopes to add even more barrels soon.

“The taproom has more of a winery feel,” he says. “There are just stacks and stacks and stacks of oak. It’s a very nuanced experience.” 745 Taylor Ave., Columbus 43219, 614/887-7687, pretentiousbarrelhouse.com

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sours

The Gadget Urban Artifact, Cincinnati artifactbeer.com

Maker of Things Little Fish Brewing Co., Athens littlefishbrewing.com

Alex Fox Noble Creature Cask House, Youngstown noblecreaturebeer.com

Gingkyo Antiques on High, Columbus antiquesonhigh.com

Noble Beast Brewing Co., Cleveland

now There is a common misconception among beer drinkers that because lagers tend to be simpler, easier-drinking beers than many craft-ale styles, try this! they must be easier and cheaper to brew. The exact opposite is true. Just ask Shaun Yasaki, founder and brewer at lagers Noble Beast Brewing Co., located a block from Lake Erie Dortmunder Gold in downtown Cleveland. Great Lakes Brewing Co.,

“What appeals to me about lagers as a brewer is Cleveland they’re very technical,” he explains. “There’s a lot more greatlakesbrewing.com process to them than ales. They’re such transparent beers that everything you do is evident.” Progress Pilsner

Lagers are brewed with a different species of yeast Market Garden Brewery, than ales, and condition for longer before they’re ready Cleveland to release. The fact they’re often simpler in flavor makes it marketgardenbrewery.com harder to hide flaws, and brewers must be on their game to brew them well. Yasaki uses traditional (and laborious) Dankel Munich Dunkel techniques and equipment such as decoction mashing Devil Wind Brewing, Xenia and horizontal lagering tanks to ensure beers like Union devilwindbrewing.com Pils and Embers Only Smoked Helles showcase that skill.

The effort has paid off not only with popularity Rustic Helles among fans but with national award recognition. The Wooly Pig Farm Brewery, brewery’s Murder Ballads Baltic Porter, a strong and dark Fresno lager (other porter styles are brewed with ale yeast), has woolypigfarmbrewery.com medaled twice at the Great American Beer Festival, the nation’s most prestigious beer competition.

“Brewing these beers stems from what I love to drink,” says Yasaki, explaining that these beers have proven quite popular with drinkers in this working-class city. “Cleveland has a well-established beer scene that appreciates these classic styles.”

Lagers can be great with food, and Noble Beast Brewing Co. is becoming well known for its upscale, seasonal food menu served in an airy but cozy taproom full of hanging plants.

“Everyone on our talented kitchen staff has a fine dining background,” Yasaki says. “We have such a great space for enjoying it, with an atmosphere that is going to pull you in immediately.” 1470 Lakeside Ave. E., Cleveland 44114, 216/417-8588, noblebeastbeer.com

Columbus Brewing Co., Columbus

Since opening in 1988, Columbus Brewing Co. has been one of the most prolific and respected breweries in the state, and it has made its name with IPAs loaded with hops. These include Insane Wanderer, which showcases a different single hop variety with each release; Columbus IPA, the brewery’s flagship beer; and numerous seasonal and special releases, like Yakima Fresh Wet Hop IPA released each fall. The brewery is perhaps best known for Bodhi, one of the top-selling Double IPAs in Ohio.

“Everybody has a story about Bodhi because it drinks so smooth,” says Columbus Brewing Co. vice president of marketing Evan Magliocca.

The beer highlights the bright citrus and tropical aromas and flavors of the Citra hop variety and has previously medaled at the Great American Beer Festival.

Columbus Brewing Co. was making great IPAs long before the current popularity of hazy IPAs, and the brewery took its time getting the style right before releasing Endless Haze, a new year-round offering. For co-founder Beth Bean, new IPAs provide the chance to celebrate ongoing advances in the world of hops.

“The evolution of hops is happening so fast, and that’s really exciting,” she says. “New breeds and varieties with such vastly different profiles give us the ability to innovate and experiment with new ideas.”

While hops run the show here, Magliocca points out that the 24 taps in the Columbus Brewing Co. taproom pour a wide variety of beers, from lagers to barrel-aged sours.

“We’re known as a hop-forward brewery, but our taproom is the opportunity to experience the rest of what we do,” he says. “For us, it’s a beer wonderland.”

The taproom also serves Sicilian-style pizza, wings with house-made sauces and other excellent food options.

While Bean celebrates innovation in the world of IPAs and other hop-forward beers, at the end of the day she has a special fondness for her brewery’s classic brand.

“Columbus IPA is the beer I always come back to,” she says. “It’s just the perfect expression of what an IPA should be.” 2555 Harrison Rd., Columbus 43204, 614/224-3626, columbusbrewing.com

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hops

Head Hunter Fat Head's Brewery, Cleveland fatheads.com

Midwest Red IPA Masthead Brewing Co., Cleveland mastheadbrewingco.com

Citra High MadTree Brewing, Cincinnati madtreebrewing.com

The Final Countdown North High Brewing, Columbus northhighbrewing.com