Martinez explains that although these sour beers undergo a standard fermentation initially, the real challenge of his craft occurs during blending, when he will taste multiple barrels to determine which vessels — and in which proportions — will be combined into a finished beer. Because the blending process is based on his sensory perception, each named beer might change somewhat year to year. “That’s the magic of it,” he explains. “We get to make impossible beers that can’t be manufactured. I change over time, and I’m the one creating the blends, so I don’t think everything can stay exactly the same. We get to make these small blends, and I think that’s where we shine.” Visitors to the Pretentious Barrel House taproom get to sit and sip their beer surrounded by the vessels that hold this magic, and Martinez hopes to add even more barrels soon. “The taproom has more of a winery feel,” he says. “There are just stacks and stacks and stacks of oak. It’s a very nuanced experience.” 745 Taylor Ave., Columbus 43219, 614/887-7687, pretentiousbarrelhouse.com
now try this! sours
The Gadget Urban Artifact, Cincinnati artifactbeer.com
Maker of Things Little Fish Brewing Co., Athens littlefishbrewing.com
Alex Fox Noble Creature Cask House, Youngstown NICKI PRENTLER
noblecreaturebeer.com
Gingkyo Antiques on High, Columbus antiquesonhigh.com
Noble Beast Brewing Co., Cleveland
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now try this!
here is a common misconception among beer drinkers that because lagers tend to be simpler, easier-drinking beers than many craft-ale styles, they must be easier and cheaper to brew. The exact opposite is true. Just ask Shaun Yasaki, founder and brewer at Dortmunder Gold Noble Beast Brewing Co., located a block from Lake Erie Great Lakes Brewing Co., in downtown Cleveland. Cleveland “What appeals to me about lagers as a brewer is greatlakesbrewing.com they’re very technical,” he explains. “There’s a lot more process to them than ales. They’re such transparent beers Progress Pilsner that everything you do is evident.” Market Garden Brewery, Lagers are brewed with a different species of yeast Cleveland than ales, and condition for longer before they’re ready marketgardenbrewery.com to release. The fact they’re often simpler in flavor makes it harder to hide flaws, and brewers must be on their game Dankel Munich Dunkel to brew them well. Yasaki uses traditional (and laborious) Devil Wind Brewing, Xenia techniques and equipment such as decoction mashing devilwindbrewing.com and horizontal lagering tanks to ensure beers like Union Pils and Embers Only Smoked Helles showcase that skill. Rustic Helles The effort has paid off not only with popularity Wooly Pig Farm Brewery, among fans but with national award recognition. The Fresno brewery’s Murder Ballads Baltic Porter, a strong and dark woolypigfarmbrewery.com lager (other porter styles are brewed with ale yeast), has medaled twice at the Great American Beer Festival, the nation’s most prestigious beer competition. “Brewing these beers stems from what I love to drink,” says Yasaki, explaining that these beers have proven quite popular with drinkers in this working-class city. “Cleveland has a well-established beer scene that appreciates these classic styles.” Lagers can be great with food, and Noble Beast Brewing Co. is becoming well known for its upscale, seasonal food menu served in an airy but cozy taproom full of hanging plants. “Everyone on our talented kitchen staff has a fine dining background,” Yasaki says. “We have such a great space for enjoying it, with an atmosphere that is going to pull you in immediately.” 1470 Lakeside Ave. E., Cleveland 44114, 216/417-8588, noblebeastbeer.com
lagers
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