ASK ANY GREEK LIVING and working abroad what they miss most about their homeland, and the answer almost always comes back to one thing: the light. This is the same light that greets you when you land at Athens International Airport – a light so distinctive that it seems to radiate the city’s essence. It lifts your spirits, revitalizes your soul and instantly reminds you why Athens stands apart.
The Greek capital basks in an average of 262.2 hours of sunshine per month, surpassed in Europe only by Madrid. But where Athens takes the lead is in its warmth, with an average annual temperature of 18.4°C compared to Madrid’s 15.6°C. What’s more, the city’s climate and light are far more than pleasant details. They are essential elements in its appeal, a vital backdrop that helps to shape its personality and its vibrancy and to attract many not just to visit Athens but to settle here, despite the
familiar challenges of urban life.
This past year has seen the city break tourism records across the board, from arrivals and overnight stays to revenue totals. Long-term forecasts remain promising, with the city investing in its future; Athens International Airport is set to embark on a three-stage, €1.35 billion expansion project in 2025, aiming to accommodate up to 50 million passengers annually by 2050.
Yet, with such growth comes the hazards of overtourism, an issue shared by many cities worldwide. Athens has seen a surge in hotels and short-term rentals that are reshaping its neighborhoods. In the Commercial Triangle, for example, hotels have more than doubled in just five years, while Airbnb listings continue to dominate areas such as Psyrri, Monastiraki and Plaka. This has driven up rents and real estate prices, straining residents’s wallets and the urban infrastructure that locals and tourists both
rely on. In central Athens, for instance, tourism accounts for a significant share of water and energy consumption, with waste volumes rising by up to 6.3% over the last decade.
To address these pressures, new government regulations aim to strike a balance. In 2025, a freeze will halt the introduction of new short-term rental properties in central Athens, alongside stricter measures to ensure sustainable growth and maintain the city’s livability for its residents. It’s an effort to preserve the very charm that brought such numbers here in the first place.
In this issue of Greece Is Athens, we invite you to dive deeper into what makes up that allure. With insights from locals and expats alike, we’re ready to let you in on the best the city has to offer, from world-class cultural exhibitions and archaeological sites to innovative restaurants and wine bars that encapsulate its energetic and exciting spirit.•
SAFEGUARDING THE LIGHT
BY GIORGOS TSIROS
14 | WHAT’S ON
What to do and where to go indoors and outside over the mild winter days in Athens.
36 | INSIDE INFORMATION
Creative Athenians share tips on their favorite city experiences.
42 | BEYOND THE BUZZ
Is Athens the new “Capital of Cool” or overhyped? Four expats offer their own verdict.
52 | A HISTORIC SHIFT
Renewed negotiations, shifting public opinion and global restitution efforts fuel growing optimism for the return of the Parthenon Sculptures to Athens.
58 | FALLING FOR ATHENS
A curated exploration of the Greek capital, a city of timeless beauty where ancient myths meet contemporary discoveries.
72 | THE WONDERS OF AREOS STREET
Twenty centuries of history in 200 meters.
78 | ANTIQUING IN ATHENS
Antiques expert and collector Dimitris Xanthoulis takes us on an Athenian treasure hunt, sharing insights into hidden gems and age-old rituals.
88 | PUNCHLINES WITHOUT BORDERS
At the Athens English Comedy Club, a diverse crowd enjoys bold humor as seasoned pros and fresh talents share the stage.
96 | THE WINE BAR PHENOMENON
An international trend goes local with a modern aesthetic and a distinctly Greek personality.
104 | HOT TABLES
Athens sizzles with culinary creativity, blending timeless classics and innovative flavors at unforgettable dining spots.
CONTENTS
134
IN DEPTH
112 | BUILDING BRIDGES
The British School at Athens has been connecting UK and Greek scholarship for nearly 140 years.
124 | AN OASIS IN THE ANCIENT CITY
The Kerameikos archaeological site offers respite from the usual hustle and bustle of modern Athens, transporting the visitor back in time to a delightful, history-rich crossroads.
134 | BLUEPRINTS OF CHANGE
The fascinating stories behind the city’s iconic interwar buildings.
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
Alexis Papahelas
PUBLISHED BY:
Nees Kathimerines Ekdoseis
Single Member S.A. Ethnarhou Makariou & 2 Dimitriou Falireos, Neo Faliro, 185 47 Piraeus Greece
GREECE IS - ATHENS is a biannual publication, distributed free of charge. It is illegal to reproduce any part of this publication without the written permission of the publisher.
ON THE COVER Collage by Dimitris Tsoumplekas
Treasure hunt!
What to do and where to go indoors and outside over the mild winter days in Athens
BY THE GREECE-IS TEAM
Celebrating Cycladic women
THE MANY ROLES of Cycladic women from prehistory to the 19th century are being brought to life by spectacular exhibit items such as the Archaic Kore of Thera (early 6th century BC), paintings, postByzantine icons from Amorgos, golden jewelry from Sikinos, and other figurines and vases, some of which have never been presented to the public before. The exhibition “Kykladitisses: Untold Stories of Women in the Cyclades” explores the lives of companions, mothers, worshipers and warriors, focusing on both the compromises imposed by their societal roles and their achievements in a male-dominated world. xenia georgiadou
→ Until May 4, Cycladic Museum - Stathatos Mansion, Vasilissis Sofias & 1 Irodotou, cycladic.gr
Left page: The marble colossal statue known as “The Kore of Thera,” c. 600-575 BC . This page: Marble statue of Artemis Elaphebolos (Deer-slayer), Late Hellenistic period.
Echoes of Magna Graecia
STEP BACK IN TIME with the Acropolis Museum’s captivating temporary exhibition, “The Ancient Civilizations of Basilicata: Treasures Emerging to Light.” Until January 26, 2025, visitors can uncover the rich heritage of Basilicata, a region in Italy that ancient travelers knew as Oenotria, the “land of vines.” This crossroads of cultures, central to the early Greek colonization of Magna Graecia (southern Italy in antiquity), is alive with stories of migration, trade, and cultural fusion.
The exhibition showcases over 300 artifacts – dazzling gold ornaments, intricately decorated ceremonial vessels and finely crafted weapons – all unearthed from ancient burial sites. These treasures date from the end of the Bronze Age (11th century BC) to the 6th century BC,
offering insights into the interactions between Greek settlers and indigenous Italic peoples.
Beyond the artifacts, the exhibition invites contemplation of the human experiences they represent: the rituals, exchanges and shared creativity that shaped this pivotal period in Mediterranean history. Housed in the groundfloor Temporary Exhibition Gallery, the exhibition is free to visit, with guided tours every Tuesday in English providing deeper insights from museum archaeologists. Don’t miss this chance to explore the intersections of history and artistry that defined an era.
duncan howitt-marshall
→ Until January 26, For details and tour registration, visit theacropolismuseum.gr
The return of Hermes
ATHENS, A CITY WHERE antiquity and modernity coexist in a delicate dance, has once again rendered up a treasure from its storied past. During routine excavation work to install a natural gas pipeline on Erechtheiou Street near the Acropolis, an extraordinary discovery was made: a remarkably well-preserved marble statue of a nude male figure, reminiscent of the Hermes Ludovisi. Hidden for centuries within a brick enclosure, the statue has emerged as a powerful reminder of the layers of history that lie just beneath the surface of the city’s modern streets.
Elena Kountouri, head of the Ephorate of Antiquities of Athens, believes this is just the beginning. “It’s likely part of a larger ensemble, perhaps connected to the House of Proclus or another significant complex of the era,” she said. The statue’s apparent relocation in antiquity suggests efforts to protect it during turbulent times, a poignant testament to the enduring value placed on art and culture.
The gas installation project has been halted temporarily and the discovery has reignited pubic interest and excitement over the splendor of Athens during Late Antiquity. As this ancient Hermes emerges from its resting place, it serves as yet another reminder that Athens is a city built on, and inspired by, the grandeur of its past. dimitris rigopoulos
Manolis Anastasakos, Kali, Acrylics on canvas, 150x100cm, 2024
West meets East
“GHIKA’S ENTIRE LIFE WAS A JOURNEY,” notes
Ioanna Moraiti, curator of the Ghika Gallery Archive. Though he spent much of his life in Western cities, the artist’s lifelong dream of exploring Eastern cultures came true in 1958. The exhibition “Ghika: A Journey from West to East” traces the impressions left on the artist by the traditions and arts of Japan, China, India, Cambodia and Egypt through letters, notes, watercolors and sketches. xenia georgiadou
→ Until February 16, Benaki Museum – Pireos 138, 138 Pireos & Andronikou, benaki.org
Woman bathing a small boy, c. 1801, woodblock print.
Below: Nikos Ghika in his studio in London in 1961, wearing the maekake apron he brought back from Japan.
The magical world of wine
2,79€
The power and passion of “Los Caprichos”
FRANCISCO GOYA (1746-1828) lived through one of the most tumultuous periods in European history, witnessing the Enlightenment; the decline of the Ancien Régime; the French Revolution; the Napoleonic Wars; and the restoration of absolute monarchy in Spain. Amidst these monumental events, Goya spearheaded a transformation in painting, infusing Spanish art with a revolutionary spirit. A defining moment in his career was the creation of “Los Caprichos” (1797-98). In this work, Goya broke free from the constraints of official commissions, channeling the full maturity of his artistry. Drawing on contemporary life, he explored darker aspects of Spanish society, exposing human folly and vice while delivering a scathing critique of the oppressive structures of his day, including the Church. In 1962, under the visionary direction of Marinos Kalligas, the National Gallery acquired a later edition of the series – all 80 etchings and aquatints, from 1803. As of January 2025, visitors in Athens can view this extraordinary collection, as well as reproductions of the artist’s preparatory sketches. maro vasiliadou
→ January-September 2025
National Gallery - Alexandros Soutsos Museum nationalgallery.gr
Francisco Goya, “Might not the pupil know more?,” 1797-98 – Print 1803. Etching, burnished aquatint and burin, 21.5 x 15 cm.
PIOP MUSEUMSHOP
NINE MUSEUMS MEET UP in the heart of Athens, at City Link. Using materials such as marble, silver, silk and clay, Greek designers create unique items exclusively for Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation (PIOP), inspired by the foundation’s museums.
Limited edition plexiglass art object of the work "Kotinos" by Alekos Fassianos, Museum of Olive and Greek Olive Oil in Sparta
Clay pomegranate created by Eleni Kanellopoulou
Gold-plated silver ring created by Elena Kitta, Environment Museum of Stymphalia
Marble antefix created by the marble sculptor Onoufrios Desypris, Museum of Marble Crafts on Tinos
Gold-plated silver cufflinks created by Anna Latousaki, Chios Mastic Museum
Gold-plated pendant created by Sofia Tsiliakou, Open-Air Water Power Museum in Dimitsana
What’s
Wild at Art
BRASS PHEASANTS, stone owls, frenzied bulls, dogs, dolphins, iron eagles, calves and deer made of bronze are set to take over the grounds of the National Glyptotheque. While animal sculpture has been a recurring theme throughout art history (the Parthenon frieze alone depicts over 220 animals), modern Greek sculpture has primarily focused on the human form. The exhibition “The Farm” showcases works by Greek sculptors Yiannis Antoniadis, Bella Raftopoulou, Antonis Karachalios, Nikolaos Dogoulis and Frosso EfthymiadiMenegaki, who all turned their artistic gaze on animals. Spanning the period from 1940 to 1970, the exhibition traces the evolution of art from realism to abstraction. xenia georgiadou
→ Until spring 2025, National Glyptotheque, Army Park, Goudi, nationalgallery.gr
Dalí all around
STEP INTO A DREAMLIKE world at the Dalí Cybernetics exhibition, an immersive experience that surrounds you with the stunning masterpieces of the legendary Surrealist artist Salvador Dalí. Projected seamlessly onto walls and floors, his iconic works shift and flow, inviting you to interact and lose yourself in their surreal beauty.
In addition, visitors can dive deeper into Dalí’s world through documentaries about his life, wander among reproductions of his iconic art, and even embark on a VR journey using a headset. panagiotis koustas
→ Until the end of March Hellenic Cosmos Cultural Center 254 Piraeus, dali-immersive.gr
Frosso Efthymiadi -Menegaki, “Animals of the Andes,” 1954.
From Ancient Beacons to Modern Networks
Step
Into the Past, Connect to the Future at the OTE Group Telecommunications Museum.
ENTER THE CAPTIVATING WORLD of communication at the OTE Group Telecommunications Museum in Nea Kifissia. Take yourself on an unforgettable journey through the evolution of telecommunications, from ancient ingenuity to futuristic innovation.
Founded in 1990, this museum houses over 4,000 objects and 33,000 archival items, including rare telegraphs, antique telephone sets and one of Greece’s first television studios from 1967. Marvel at the beacons of ancient Greece, used for visual message transmission through the use of fire, and the Acoustic Telegraph, which transmitted signals using sound. Discover groundbreaking discoveries such as the Morse telegraph and learn about OTE’s pioneering cable-laying vessel, the ship “Thales of Miletus.”
The museum’s exhibits extend to the digital age, showcasing the evolution of networks from analog to digital, the dawn of optical fiber, the rise of the internet and the transformation of mobile telephony. Gaming enthusiasts will also find a dedicated section tracing the history of electronic gaming. This museum is particularly notable for interactive exhibits that bring history to life through Augmented and Virtual Reality applications. Scan QR codes for further insights and explore audiovisual material to enhance your visit. For those unable to visit in person,
the museum offers a virtual tour of its permanent exhibition and access to thousands of digitized archival items and material through online platforms such as Europeana. Admission to the museum is free, and the museum provides over 300 educational programs and guided tours annually, catering to families, school groups and individuals. Don’t miss the opportunity to explore this treasure trove of our shared
technological heritage. Visit Monday through Friday from 10:00 to 17:00 (no admission after 16:00), or check the website for the monthly Sunday opening schedule. n
Step into a world of discovery – plan your visit today!
Bright ideas
IN THE EARLY 1960 s, Chryssa began using neon as a sculptural medium, drawing inspiration from Manhattan’s traffic lights and glowing storefront signs. She was not alone. Stephen Antonakos, Yiannis Bouteas, George Lappas and Takis are all part of a generation of artists who developed their creative practices around the theme of light. Focusing on color, reflections, light and shadow, the exhibition “It Empties, It Fills, the Light” brings together works from the postwar modernist period with contemporary explorations by Greek artists.
xenia georgiadou
→ Until February 16, B & M Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts and Music, 9 Vasilissis Sofias & 1 Merlin, thf.gr
A story of love and loss
ROMEO CASTELLUCCI takes an abstract approach for his interpretation of Jean Racine’s five-act verse tragedy Bérénice, one of the most important works of modern dramaturgy. Titus and Antiochus, two rulers competing for the heart of the Queen of Judea, move silently against a surreal background, leaving only Bérénice (played by Isabelle Huppert) to communicate the essence of love: tenderness, madness, deceit, loss and cruelty. The production features music by Scott Gibbons and costumes by Iris van Herpen. xenia georgiadou → March 26-30, Onassis Stegi, 107-109 Syngrou, onassis.org
Art upstairs
IN RECENT YEARS, ATHENS has seen an intriguing shift in its art scene. Many of the city’s leading galleries are moving away from traditional storefront spaces on busy streets, opting instead for apartments in the upper floors of Modernist buildings and old townhouses. This change is about more than just a financial practicality – it reflects a desire to create a more intimate, “home-like” environment, fostering deeper connections with a more discerning audience.
One of the most exciting newcomers to this trend is the renowned Michael Werner Gallery.
Established in Berlin in 1963, the gallery opened with Georg Baselitz’s debut exhibition and has since expanded across Europe and the U.S., representing such prominent names as Per Kirkeby, Marcel Broodthaers, Peter Saul and Issy Wood. Now, it has found a home in Athens. The gallery’s Athenian branch is located near the Athens Conservatory, a stone’s throw away from major cultural institutions such as the Benaki Museum, the Museum of Cycladic Art, the Byzantine and Christian Museum, and the National Gallery. Its inaugural exhibition,“Faithfully Represented,” features the work of Polish-born, London-based artist Barbara Wesolowska, who took the title of her show from a phrase in Freud’s “The Interpretation of Dreams.” Wesolowska, who grew up on church property on a Polish island, describes her childhood as having taken place “literally inside the church.” That deeply religious environment shaped both her artistic palette, inspired by the deep reds and gilded golds of Polish Gothic cathedrals and Byzantine icons, and her desire to evoke a sense of transcendence as she invites viewers to connect with her paintings by drawing on emotions and memories. xenia georgiadou
→ Until February 15, Michael Werner Gallery, 10 Vasileos Georgiou, michaelwerner.com
Founded in 1987 in Greece, Kalliope is a company that designs and markets handmade fine contemporary jewelry. Inspired by fashion and traditional Greek art, we handcraft unique accessories. The name of the brand comes from the ancient times as Kalliope was the name of the muse of music and the arts. Of course, it’s also the name of one of the founders and designers, George & Kalliope, who have been together in both personal and professional life since 1984. Passionate about finding the contemporary between the traditional and the alternative, the couple mixes classic techniques with unconventional materials and innovative ideas, putting their signature in each and every one of their designs. Nowadays, a lot has changed since the opening of the first Kalliope store as one can find all Kalliope items in more than 52 countries and more than 180 boutiques worldwide. Discover all of their new collections as well as a broad selection of fashion jewelry pieces in their store located in Perikleous 58 street in the heart of Athens in Syntagma.
More than a stay
OKUPA IS A REIMAGINED hotel and cultural hub that invites both locals and travelers to connect, create and unwind. Blending nostalgic late ’70s and early ’80s design with a modern ethos of inclusivity, it offers a refreshing take on hospitality.
Start your day in the airy lobby, where communal tables invite you to enjoy your morning coffee or catch up on emails. For moments when you need a peaceful escape, head to the library, stocked with books and magazines. There are even soundproof booths providing privacy, and a serene and leafy garden, a peaceful oasis amid the urban buzz.
Okupa embodies the concept of an “open hotel,” where luxury is defined by freedom of expression. The menu at the restaurant and bar changes through the day; sophisticated shared plates replace light Mediterranean bites as evening falls. Curated music nights, artist performances and lively workshops transform the space into a true cultural platform.
The hotel champions sustainability, too, hosting pop-up markets spotlighting conscientious local creators in a space that keeps Athenians connected to the world even as it reveals the city’s authentic soul to visitors from around the globe. nena dimitriou → 9 Psaromiligkou, okupa.com
Always cool in Kolonaki
KOLONAKI SQUARE, the heart of Athens’ most upscale district, will be a construction site for the next few years, as work on the metro progresses. However, the surrounding streets, with their mix of elegant boutiques, chic cafés, fine dining restaurants and exciting art galleries, more than justify a visit or two. The latest neighborhood hotspot is tranquil Spefsippou Street, named for the great philosopher and mathematician Speusippus, Plato’s nephew and successor. The street’s charm lies in its elegant interwar-era apartment buildings, which lend a sense of timeless sophistication to the area. Start your exploration at Dexameni Square and head to No. 1 Spefsippou. Brasserie Lorraine, on the ground floor, has a warm, old-world charm and serves comforting French dishes with a modern twist; it’s an ideal spot to linger on a cold winter’s day On the fourth floor of the same building, you’ll find the showroom of Stefania Frangista, the Greek fashion brand renowned for its coveted swimwear collections and its high-quality, stylish resort wear. Every piece is made in Greece, and the company has a strong commitment to sustainability and eco-friendly practices as well.
At the corner of Spefsippou and Loukianou Streets is Iodio, a new restaurant that’s already earning kudos for its creative culinary approach. Chef Georgiana Hiliadaki serves fresh fish and seafood in exciting and inventive culinary combinations. Expect Greek dishes reimagined in unexpected ways, such as the fish youvarlakia (a twist on traditional meatball soup). vlasis kostouros
Above: Brasserie Lorraine.
Left: One of the many interwar buildings that flank Spefsippou Street.
Fit for a Queen
TUCKED AWAY in Ilion in western Attica, the Queen’s Tower Estate is like a royal dreamscape, where lush vineyards and enchanting gardens frame a neo-Gothic tower built by Greece’s first king, Otto, for his beloved Queen Amalia. Inspired by Bavaria’s romantic castles, this little-known gem near Athens has been lovingly preserved by the Serpieri family, who have now opened its doors to visitors eager to experience its unique blend of history, beauty and flavors.
The tour begins inside the tower, an architectural marvel of battlements that also boasts Greece’s most exquisite parquet marquetry. Rooms are trimmed in royal blue and gold, with arched windows that gaze out onto statues, fountains and colorful parakeets perched in palms that have graced the grounds for over a century. The gardens extend across fragrant orchards and vineyards, where you can almost taste the past in every bloom and breeze.
A stroll through the estate reveals flourishing vineyards producing wines for sale that are exclusive to the property. A visit might include a sophisticated wine tasting, where you’ll sample organic reds and whites paired with artisanal cheeses, homemade pies and decadent chocolates, all in the original stables that once housed Queen Amalia’s exotic animals. It’s a sensory journey fit for royalty – a secret Eden just beyond the city. nena dimitriou
Inside INFORMATION
CREATIVE ATHENIANS OFFER THEIR OWN TIPS
IANNIS GANAS
Visual Artist @iannis.ganas
EDITED BY GEORGIA FEKOU
DESPINA ISOPOULOU
Floral Designer, Eik ō Flowers @youstrikemyfancy
1. Polidefkous, near Piraeus Port, is an art-filled alley worth exploring. Visit Intermission (37A Polidefkous) and Sylvia Kouvali (41 Polidefkous), then enjoy fine wine at Paleo (39 Polidefkous). For a more adventurous escape, take the fast ferry to Hydra, a true artists’ haven.
1. Cultural Destination
2.
Only in Athens
1. The “Museum of the Excavation,” located beneath the Acropolis Museum (15 Dionysiou Areopagitou), offers a glimpse into everyday life from 3,500 BC. The excavation reveals centuries of human history through stratified layers of soil just a few meters deep. It’s a captivating journey through time.
2. Take a trail run to the top of Lycabettus Hill in the heart of the city. The 7km route is challenging, but the breathtaking views of the city make it worth the effort. Burned too many calories? Stop by Geuseis Marasli (37 Marasli) at the foot of the hill for some of the best tsoureki in Athens.
3. Santarosa (69 Asklipiou) is my go-to spot for drinks, with its cool atmosphere and impressive art on the walls.
4. Returning home on my motorbike, only to change plans at the last minute and ride all the way down to Kavouri, a beautiful seaside area. Once there, I enjoy a leisurely swim – a perfect way to recharge and reflect.
5. Foyer Espresso Bar (2 Vriaxidos) in Pangrati, my neighborhood, is perfect for a mid-day coffee break. I often leave with a bag of their top-notch coffee beans, a book or magazine I didn’t know I needed, or a bottle of wine.
4.
3.
Night out
Guilty Pleasure
5.
Shopping Therapy
2. Soak up the sun and enjoy authentic Greek seafood in Keratsini or Perama, in the south of the city. These neighborhoods are home to waterfront tavernas serving tsipouro and meze against a backdrop of smokestacks and abandoned factories.
3. Burger Disco Club (11 Nikis) is my go-to for music and dancing. Known for its club vibe, it hosts world-famous DJs such as Tom of Holland. Their early Sunday parties, starting at 7 PM, are perfect for a guilt-free night out.
4. Craving something sweet? Visit Asimakopoulos (82 Charilaou Trikoupi), a pastry shop famous for its Athenian desserts. Their tsoureki and galaktoboureko are unforgettable.
5. The Eleni Marneri Gallery (8 Pittakou), located in a stunning 1910 neoclassical building, is a must-visit for fine perfumes and unique contemporary jewelry from brands such as Santa Maria Novella – perfect for a special gift or personal treat.
STATHIS MITROPOULOS
Graphic designer, DJ, and co-owner of Hyper Hypo bookstore
@stathismitropoulos
1. The basement of Hyper Hypo (10 Voreou) hosts some of Athens’ most intriguing and alternative book and magazine launches, featuring local and international speakers that attract the city’s coolest crowd. Other events include exhibitions, performances, parties, and talks (often in English) on topics such as art, photography, architecture and queer culture.
2. The sea! Less than an hour’s drive (or bus ride) from the city center, Limanakia’s rocky beaches offer an unspoiled escape. The water is so clear you can see fish swimming beside you.
3. Koukles (32 Zan Moreas) is a drag cabaret like no other. The two-hour show features performers playing iconic Greek and international divas, delivering a mix of camp humor and genuine emotion. Don’t be surprised if you spot celebrities like Jean Paul Gaultier or Tilda Swinton in the audience – they’re fans, too.
4. Kapsa (4 Skouleniou), meaning “excessive heat” or “intense desire,” lives up to its name with bold souvlaki creations by chef Christoforos Peskias. Expect innovative takes on classic flavors that will leave you craving more.
5. Zacharias (20 Ifestou) record store is a vinyl haven in a quiet arcade near bustling Ifestou Street in Monastiraki.
1. Cultural Destination
2. Only in Athens
3.
Night out
4.
Guilty Pleasure
5. Shopping Therapy
ELINA PELVANIDI
Exhibitions Coordinator at Gagosian Gallery @elinapelvanidi
1. Explore a cultural triangle in Kolonaki: Gagosian (22 Anapiron Polemou) for modern and contemporary art, the Cycladic Museum (4 Neofitou Douka) for its iconic collection, and the Benaki Museum (1 Koumpari) for a celebration of Greek culture. Fournos (168 Mavromichali) is a fringe theater in Exarchia that’s also known for seasonal site-specific exhibitions.
2. Experience the legendary Athenian light that has inspired countless artists. A walk up Lycabettus or Filopappou hills at sunset reveals why it’s so special.
3. Start your evening with an early drink at Alexandrino (69a Emmanouil Benaki), then head to Galaxy (10 Stadiou) for the next round – both are iconic Athenian institutions.
4. I have a sweet tooth, so anything from Varsos, Athens’ oldest patisserie in Kifissia (5 Kassaveti), is my ultimate indulgence. For a savory fix, Black Salami (71 Zoodochou Pigis) offers incredible sandwiches that are particularly satisfying after a night out.
5. Flowers are my therapy. I treat myself weekly to fresh blooms from ABLOOM (32 Archelaou) in Pangrati; they specialize in bespoke floral arrangements.
Inside INFORMATION
MAKIS PAPASIMAKOPOULOS
Podcaster, Radio Producer, Video Creator @gerard_y_otros
1. The recently renovated movie theater Cinobo Patision (79 28is Oktovriou) Curated by Akis Kapranos, noted for his Midnight Express film program, it’s perfect for late-night cinema lovers.
2. Few cities offer so many options for bar-hopping. In Athens, you can trip on the uneven sidewalks and fall into a bar that wasn’t even open when you started tumbling – it’s part of the city’s charm.
3. Start with a drink at Amore Spritzeria (1-3 Menechmou) for its lively vibe or Ham on Rye (12 Klisovis) for something quieter. Grab a pizza and a beer at Lisa Athens (25 Negri Fokionos), or enjoy fine dining at Cookoovaya (2a Chatzigianni Mexi). End the night with a nightcap at Bonnot (57 Emmanouil Benaki) in Exarchia.
4. The peanut butter and chocolate chip cookies at Kick (26 Sporadon) are irresistible. The coffee’s great too, but those cookies are my weakness.
5. If you’ve got money to spend, Cinema Libre Filmstore (34 Themistokleous) is a treasure trove for DVDs, Blu-rays, and B-movies. For vinyl oddities, head to Entropia Records (68 Ithakis) for its wonderfully curated selection.
1. Cultural Destination
2. Only in Athens
3. Night out
4. Guilty Pleasure
5. Shopping Therapy
MELINA ANTONOPOULOU Founder of Dameli Wines, Wine Importer @dameli.gr
1. The Benaki Museum of Islamic Art (22 Aghion Asomaton) is a treasure trove of ceramics, textiles, calligraphy and more from the 8th to the 18th century. The vivid Iznik tiles are particularly stunning. Visit the rooftop café, offering serene views of the Acropolis and Psyrri—a perfect spot from which to appreciate this rich cultural heritage.
2. Escape the city at Panagia Katafygiotissa in Katafigi Bay, just before Sounio. Perched on a hill between two beaches, this picturesque white chapel features murals by Dimitris Mytaras. Bring wine and relax until sunset, or combine your visit with a trip to the temple at Sounio.
3. For wine lovers, Gamay (42 Zoodochou Pigis) is unbeatable. The great wine, cozy atmosphere, tasty bites (such as tarama bruschetta), and friendly staff make it an ideal spot for any occasion.
4. Chau’s Restaurant (66 Aghiou Konstantinou) serves incredible Vietnamese food. The rolls are the best in town, and the Peking duck with rice wraps is a must-try. This no-frills spot feels like home.
5. MOD (20 Loukianou) in Kolonaki offers a curated collection of unworn vintage clothing that blends timeless and contemporary styles. With its artistic vibe, it’s a haven for vintage fashion hunters.
IS ATHENS THE NEW “CAPITAL OF COOL” OR OVERHYPED?
FOUR EXPATS REFLECT ON LIVING IN THE CITY.
Beyond the BUZZ
IN EARLY DECEMBER, the Financial Times ran a feature titled “Athens – the coolest wine scene in Europe?” While the title posed a question, the article made it clear that, if not the coolest, Athens’ wine scene is undoubtedly one of the most exciting. For key players in the local tourism industry, it was yet another confirmation of the city’s “golden era” – just the latest in a wave of positive press that Athens has been receiving since the pandemic. But for many Athenians, the article sparked a familiar feeling: an underlying sense that the buzz surrounding the city is a party happening in a parallel universe – one where most locals aren’t invited. Is it the same in Barcelona or Lisbon? Or is the gap between this city’s glowing reputation and the complex realities of daily life even greater here?
For now, the numbers favor the capital’s reputation. Tourist arrivals have skyrocketed since the mid-2010s, and the city has seen a notable increase in the number of foreigners choosing to settle here – some for a few months, others for the long term. It’s not just artists lured by the city’s slightly chaotic, somewhat “exotic” charm by Western standards; professionals from a wide range of fields have found something in Athens that resonates deeply, leading them to put down roots.
We reached out to some of those newfound admirers of Athens, posing the same three questions to each. Their responses offer fresh perspectives on the “Athenian Issue,” a key topic of public debate, as well as a thoughtful viewpoint that sits somewhere halfway between excessive exuberance and undue cynicism.
THE QUESTIONS
1 What was your initial impression of Athens?
2 What made you decide Athens was somewhere you wanted to live?
3 In recent years, Athens has often been portrayed in the foreign press as a cool alternative to other European capitals. Do you believe this positive publicity is accurate, or do you think it risks oversimplifying the day-to-day reality of living in this city?
BY DIMITRIS RIGOPOULOS ILLUSTRATIONS: PHILIPPOS AVRAMIDES
1
THE FIRST TIME I arrived in Athens, it was winter. I was stunned – and very disappointed. I had expected the eternal Greek summer, but instead it was freezing cold, the sky was perpetually overcast, and the whole week felt like it was shrouded in darkness. On the streets, everyone seemed in a rush, hardly exchanging a word, just trying to find shelter from the rain and wind. I thought to myself, “This isn’t a city for me.”
2
THREE YEARS LATER, the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs sent me to Athens to teach at the Italian School. It was 2010, and the city was already deep in the economic crisis. The city wasn’t showing its best face – shops were empty, streets were deserted, and endless queues stretched in front of the banks. Yet, it was at this low point that I realized I wanted to live here.
It was no longer (just) about the endless sunshine, the incredible glow of the Parthenon at dusk, the fragrant orange trees everywhere, the museums with their unique collections, or the countless theaters. What captivated me more was the character of the people – their hospitality and generosity –which gradually won me over. And, I must add, there was also that classical Greek pursuit of calm and serenity. “This is the city for me,” I told myself – or rather, “This is my city.”
3
COMPARING ATHENS to other European capitals, particularly those in the West, often feels overly simplistic and reductive. It overlooks the city’s essence – its unique, multifaceted identity. For many foreigners, Athens serves as a gateway to the East, and this dual nature, both Eastern and Western, forms the foundation of its charm. It’s this blend of influences, with all its imperfections and strengths, that sets the city apart.
In Athens, everything has two sides. For instance, the streets are often chaotic, with constant traffic and noise that can be overwhelming. Yet, beneath this surface, the city pulses with a unique rhythm – one that is far removed from the relentless pace of other European capitals. This Greek rhythm, which some might view as an eccentricity, reminds us that life is not just about work, haste and stress but also about calm, patience and endurance.
Stefano Bindi
Language teacher
If Athens were to become a typical, “standard” tourist destination, it would lose this special aura, sacrificing its distinct personality to the demands of fast, impersonal mass tourism. The media, in my opinion, should steer clear of absolute labels and oversimplifications. Instead, it should highlight Athens’ distinctiveness, the unique characteristics that set it apart from other cities. For me, this uniqueness is best expressed through the language of its people – a language rich in history, beauty and depth, unmatched anywhere else in the world. As a fortunate expatriate, I can confidently say there is nothing like it.
“WHAT
New Home
CAPTIVATED ME MORE WAS THE CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE – THEIR HOSPITALITY AND GENEROSITY – WHICH GRADUALLY WON ME OVER.”
“COMPARED TO MY HOMETOWN OF LONDON, ATHENS HAD A PACE OF LIFE THAT FELT MORE SUSTAINABLE FOR AN ARTIST.”
New Home
1
I FIRST VISITED ATHENS IN 2015, at the height of the economic crisis. The city felt run-down and chaotic, but beneath the surface, there was a faded architectural grandeur that intrigued me. Neglected buildings served as spaces for artist performances and exhibitions, and the city was alive with creative energy. I was drawn to its grungy DIY spirit, and I experienced incredible generosity and kindness from both the Greek people and the artistic community.
2
AFTER COMPLETING a two-month art residency with Snehta in Kypseli in 2016, I knew I wanted to return and live in the city permanently. Compared to my hometown of London, Athens had a pace of life that felt more sustainable for an artist. I found it easy to connect with the artistic community and make friends. Its walkable size, sociable latenight culture, and relatively affordable rents made it incredibly livable. To me, Athens feels like a city out of time – a reminder of a slower, kinder way of life. That said, I’ve noticed gentrification picking up, especially since the pandemic, a change which is undeniably altering the city’s character.
3
ATHENS’ CHARM LIES in its distinctiveness from more typically Western capitals. Perched on the edge of Europe, it blends Middle Eastern, Balkan and Western influences. The city feels authentic and doesn’t share the homogeneity of many Western cities. The foreign press is right to portray it as a “cool alternative,” but this narrative can lead to oversimplifications. As much as I love this city, it’s not without its challenges. Living in Athens as a foreigner is very different from visiting as a tourist. As a visitor, you can enjoy the best the city has to offer – delicious food, warm people and ancient monuments – without encountering the political and bureaucratic complexities that locals and long-term residents often face.
Athens is in much better shape today than when I first visited nine years ago; it’s clearly recovering from the crisis. However, there are growing concerns about foreign investment, Airbnb, and the economic distortions they create, including rising rents that are out of sync with Greek wages.
Artist, author of the book “Doors of Kypseli”
Eleanor Lines
1
I ARRIVED IN ATHENS during the pandemic, so my first impression of the city was heavily colored by that experience. Despite the challenges, I saw an energetic city and a resilient nation – a stark contrast to how London was coping at the time. The markets were still open, and I remember feeling incredibly fortunate to be able to cook well, even under such difficult circumstances. As things began to open up, I got a better understanding of the city and its dynamic spirit.
2
I FELT TRULY WELCOMED by the Greeks when I arrived – more so than in any other country I’d visited in Europe. This warmth gave me a strong sense of belonging and made me want to stay. I could feel the energy of a city brimming with potential, particularly in the hospitality industry, and I wanted to be a part of that. Greek wine also captivated me – it was deeply undervalued back home, and I was eager to explore it further.
Paisley Tara Kennett Sommelier, wine importer and consultant
3
LIVING IN ATHENS is an incredible experience, but it’s not without its challenges. At times, I feel the heart of the city gets overshadowed by the focus on its “cool” factor and the excitement of new places. While Athens is constantly evolving, this also means we sometimes lose pieces of its soul – particularly the traditional establishments that have been embedded in Greek culture for decades.
That said, there’s so much about Athens that makes it truly unique. It doesn’t feel entirely European, and this gives it a certain wildness and sense of intrigue. For a long time, especially in summer, Athens was treated as merely a gateway to the islands. Now, more people are staying longer, exploring the city, and even coming here as their sole destination – and it’s easy to see why.
“THERE’S SO MUCH ABOUT ATHENS THAT MAKES IT TRULY UNIQUE. IT DOESN’T FEEL ENTIRELY EUROPEAN, AND THIS GIVES IT A CERTAIN WILDNESS AND SENSE OF INTRIGUE.”
New Home
1
WHEN I FIRST ARRIVED in Athens in 2011, my initial impression came from the people I met. They refused to tolerate my cold American reserve, challenging me with their combative spirit. It felt like an intervention. They changed my life, and I was hooked.
2
I’VE ALWAYS HAD A SPECIFIC reason for being in Athens. Initially, I came to conduct research for graduate school, and later, I was drawn by an intriguing job offer. Over time, however, my relationship with the city deepened, and it became my home, almost naturally.
Tyler Boersen Strategy Consultant, former International Press Officer for the City of Athens
3
TO ANSWER YOUR QUESTION – no, I don’t think someone seeking to live like “Emily in Paris“ would find Athens fulfilling. It would be deeply unsatisfying to experience this city as if it were just another trendy destination, a “cool” product to consume. Someone like “Emily” would never be able to experience the people and places that captivated me.
It’s worth noting that much of the recent publicity about Athens was designed to promote specific brands – cheap flights and mid-range hotels in particular. Like all consumer branding, it encourages people to imagine their lives differently. But this kind of promotion won’t create the deep commitments that Athens demands from those who choose to live here. To truly belong here, one must find a real purpose.
There’s another narrative, however, that explains how Athens became cool. For many years, Athens was synonymous with the Acropolis. Visitors often overlooked the city’s diverse, multifaceted nature, dismissing it as “ugly” simply because they didn’t know how to evaluate it fairly.
Today, however, Athens stands on the same level with cities worldwide, not just in Europe. The city beyond the Acropolis has emerged as a symbol of global relevance, tackling issues such as climate adaptation and social integration. The best promotional strategy for Athens right now is to remind people that Athens asks questions relevant to their lives – and to show tangible results.
This approach can attract valuable resources, including new foreign residents, but what truly matters is how those resources are used. We should look beyond mere promotion and focus on building sustainable initiatives – such as film and TV productions – that generate lasting local jobs and foster real growth.
Renewed negotiations, shifting public opinion and global restitution efforts fuel growing optimism for the return of the Parthenon Sculptures to Athens.
A Historic SHIFT
BY DUNCAN HOWITT-MARSHALL
ATHENS
Statuary from the east pediment of the Parthenon, on display at the British Museum. Created under the direction of master sculptor Pheidias circa 430 BC, they were forcibly removed from the temple façade in the early 19th century by agents of Lord Elgin, then British Ambassador to the Ottoman empire.
FFOR OVER TWO CENTURIES, the Parthenon Sculptures have been at the center of one of modern history’s most enduring cultural disputes. Removed from their original home in Athens by Lord Elgin in the early 19th century, these 2,500-year-old masterpieces have been housed in the British Museum in London since 1816, fueling impassioned debate over their rightful location.
In 2024, renewed negotiations have brought the possibility of reunification closer than ever. Professor Irene Stamatoudi, a former Greek government adviser, told the BBC that a deal is “close,” while Professor Nikolaos Stampolidis, director of the Acropolis Museum, expressed optimism to The Observer: “We are making remarkable progress, and developments are in our favor.” Public support in the UK and a broader cultural shift in Europe have injected fresh momentum into the campaign, with many viewing this moment in time as a potential turning point.
Key Developments in 2024
The past year has seen significant progress in the campaign for the Parthenon Sculptures, marked by diplomatic overtures, grassroots advocacy, and shifting political attitudes. George Osborne, former UK Chancellor and chair of the British Museum, has sought to broker an innovative agreement with Greek Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis. The proposed deal includes loaning portions of the Parthenon frieze to the Acropolis Museum in exchange for Greek artifacts, though specifics remain unclear.
In May, UNESCO’s Intergovernmental Committee for Promoting the Return of Cultural Property to its Countries of Origin (ICPRCP) met in Paris to address the issue. Greece reaffirmed that the sculptures are an integral part of its cultural heritage and urged the UK to comply with UNESCO recommendations. The committee called for intensified negotiations, voicing concern over the lack of progress. Grassroots advocacy has also been pivotal. In the lead-up to the UK’s July General Election, the British Committee for the Reunification of the Parthenon Marbles (BCRPM) launched a campaign urging citizens to pressure members of Parliament into supporting reunification. “It is crucial for UK citizens to voice their support for the reunification of these cultural treasures,” a committee member
emphasized, underscoring the positive impact on UK-Greece relations.
In October, The Parthenon Project hosted a high-profile event in Athens titled “A Win-Win Solution for the Reunification of the Parthenon Sculptures.” Proposing a cultural partnership, they suggested that Greece could loan blockbuster artifacts like the Mask of Agamemnon and Kritios Boy in exchange for the sculptures. “This is not about dividing culture,” project founder John Lefas told the Greek City Times, “it’s about creating new opportunities for learning, sharing and celebrating our common history.”
In early December, Prime Minister Mitsotakis met with his UK counterpart, Sir Keir Starmer, in London, framing the debate as one of cultural justice rather than ownership. Starmer, while reiterating that the British
Museum’s trustees hold final authority under the British Museum Act of 1963, signaled openness to a loan agreement. Mitsotakis contrasted the meeting with the frosty reception he received from then-Conservative Prime Minister Rishi Sunak a year earlier, noting that Labour’s victory in the summer election marked a pivotal opportunity. Greek Culture Minister Lina Mendoni urged patience following Mitsotakis’ visit, emphasizing Greece’s commitment to diplomacy. While significant challenges remain, the shifting tone of political and cultural discourse suggests a breakthrough may be within reach.
Changing Attitudes
Public sentiment in the UK continues to shift dramatically in favor of returning the sculptures. An early
December YouGov poll revealed that nearly 60% of Britons support their return to Athens, citing cultural justice and historical integrity. This growing support places increased pressure on the British Museum’s trustees to weigh ethical considerations against legal and logistical constraints.
Developments in 2024 also reflect broader global trends. Across Europe, cultural restitution efforts have gained traction. In 2022, Italy set a precedent by permanently returning the Fagan Fragment, a piece of the Parthenon frieze, to Athens. Hailed as a model for international cooperation, the move underscored the importance of cultural heritage. As Artnet News observed, “The movement to return fragments of the Parthenon Sculptures is a harbinger of broader restitution efforts.”
This growing emphasis on cultural
Sculptures
This page: In the Parthenon Galleries of the British Museum are sections of the Parthenon frieze; which vividly depict the Panathenaic procession. Advocates for their return to Athens argue the display presents a fragmented and decontextualized narrative.
Left page: Iris, goddess of the rainbow, from the Parthenon’s west pediment, was among the sculptures whose removal and sale to the British government in 1816 drew widespread condemnation from scholars, artists and poets, including renowned philhellene Lord Byron.
justice has reshaped the debate, lending new momentum to Greece’s cause and aligning with evolving perceptions of historical accountability.
Challenges and Points of Contention
Despite significant progress, obstacles remain. The British Museum continues to assert legal ownership, citing its acquisition of the sculptures in 1816. The 1963 British Museum Act prohibits the permanent deaccession of objects, complicating negotiations.
The UK government maintains that the museum’s trustees have ultimate authority over the sculptures’ fate. As the Financial Times noted, “Any final decision lies with the Trustees of the British Museum, not the UK government, reflecting the institution’s
independence.” Greece has indicated willingness to accept the sculptures as a deposit, allowing Athens to display them without challenging British ownership. However, this compromise is far from assured, with legal and logistical issues still unresolved.
Reasons for Optimism
Despite these challenges, optimism surrounding reunification continues to grow. Greek officials have hailed recent developments as unprecedented. Culture Minister Lina Mendoni emphasized, “The reunification of the Parthenon Sculptures is not just a Greek issue; it is a matter of global justice.”
Momentum (from initiatives such as The Parthenon Project, grassroots activism and broader international restitution efforts) has created a sense of inevitability around the sculptures’ return. As the Financial Times remarked, “2024 marks a turning point where both sides are closer than ever to a compromise.”
Young advocates and cultural organizations have played a vital role, ensuring the conversation remains dynamic and forward-looking. Their efforts have amplified calls for restitution, resonating with a global audience and reinforcing the campaign’s alignment with shifting attitudes toward cultural heritage and justice.
The strides made in 2024 demonstrate the power of collaboration and cultural diplomacy. Reuniting the sculptures would honor Greece’s cultural legacy while setting a precedent for resolving similar disputes worldwide.
As cultural institutions adapt to evolving notions of historical responsibility, the Parthenon Sculptures stand as a powerful symbol of international cooperation and shared heritage. Whether 2024 will prove to be the definitive turning point remains uncertain. What is clear, however, is that the dream of reunification is no longer a distant aspiration – it is an achievable goal, within reach.•
Above: Greek Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis’ December 2024 meeting with his UK counterpart Sir Keir Starmer highlights growing diplomatic efforts to return the Parthenon Sculptures to Greece.
The incomplete nature of this vivid cavalcade scene from the Parthenon frieze, the whole of which is currently split between Athens and London, is a powerful symbol of the campaign for cultural reunification.
Explore the timeless beauty of the Greek capital, where ancient myths meet contemporary discoveries.
BY GIORGOS PSOMIADIS
PHOTOS: PERIKLES MERAKOS
Kallimarmaro, the stadium that hosted the first modern Olympic Games in 1896.
Falling for ATHENS
FFOR MOST ATHENS VISITORS, all paths inevitably lead to the Acropolis, a monument towering above the city like a watchful guardian. But venture a kilometer and a half away, into the Zappeion Gardens, and you’ll find a much smaller attraction, almost invisible in his leafy hideaway: a small statue of Eros, the god of love, known to many by his Roman name Cupid. Unlike the Acropolis, he isn’t here to awe or impress. At first glance, he seems preoccupied, fiddling with his bow, as if unaware of your presence. Don’t be fooled. He’s seen you already. While the Acropolis captures your gaze, Eros takes aim at your heart –his arrow ready to make you fall hopelessly in love with this city of gods.
The Zappeion, a city landmark, was designed by architect Theophil Hansen.
This statue of Eros can be found in the Zappeion Gardens.
Clockwise from above: The Sounion Kouros, a 7th-century BC statue on display in the National Archaeological Museum; The Antikythera Mechanism, perhaps the world’s first analog computer; A house in the Anafiotika district of Plaka; Time for a drink and a bite at Alfiere.
Above: The Acropolis Museum is a must-see cultural destination in the capital.
Below: The Tower of the Winds, a beautifully preserved structure, stands in the Roman Agora.
Today, Athens is a city that still embraces the scattered monuments of classical antiquity, along with historical traces of the East and the Balkans. Yet, it’s also a capital in the midst of a gastronomic and artistic renaissance, riding the wave of an economic boom. There are countless things here to fall in love with, and like the elusive love archer’s statue, many of them seem to appear when you least expect it. Still, a little nudge can help serendipity along, so I’ve put together a list of some of the places where the city’s hidden treasures await.
A green labyrinth
Just a few steps north of the statue of Eros in the Zappeion Gardens lie the National Gardens, an oasis in the heart of Athens, home to thousands of species of trees and plants, along with ducks, turtles, rabbits, and solemn busts of prominent figures from modern Greek history. Once reserved for the royal family alone, these verdant paths were created by Queen Amalia, wife of King Otto. She ordered thousands of plants and, in 1842, planted the majestic Washingtonia robusta palms that today form a soaring tree tunnel – the only row of its kind in southeastern Europe – welcoming visitors at the Amalias Avenue entrance. More than eighty years ago, the author Henry Miller wrote: “This park remains in my memory as no other park I have visited in my life,” and as you will discover, its magic has not dimmed with time.
The Quarter of the Gods
A five-minute walk from the National Gardens brings you to a neighborhood inhabited since antiquity –the heart of ancient Athens. Today, in the “quarter of the gods,” as Plaka is called, flower-filled courtyards and pastel-colored 19th-century houses, preserved for their historical significance and draped in fuchsia bougainvillea, transport you back to an older Athens. Here, stray cats play hide-and-seek
IN PLAKA, FLOWER-FILLED COURTYARDS AND 19TH-CENTURY HOUSES DRAPED IN BOUGAINVILLEA TRANSPORT YOU
BACK TO AN OLDER ATHENS.
among archaeological sites like the Roman Agora and Hadrian’s Library, or lounge on the steps of historic spots such as Apanemia (4 Tholou), a haunt for bohemian artists of the ’60s.
Plaka is home to many traditional cafes and taverns. The timeless café Yiasemi (23 Mnisikleous) is popular on social media, known for its picturesque stairs that double as seating (its equally beautiful terrace sees fewer diners). Another favorite is Café Dioskouroi (13 Dioskouron), offering views of the Roman Agora.
In case you didn’t know, Athens conceals a Cycladic island in its heart, right above Plaka. In the second half of the 19th century, the area now known as Anafiotika was settled by workers from the Aegean island of Anafi, brought in to help build King Otto’s palaces. Unable to afford housing in other parts of the city, they built their homes here. The sight of these well-preserved whitewashed houses, with their colorful shutters and flower-filled steps, is worth the climb – as are the outstanding views.
Anafiotika also bore witness to the tragic end of a great love. The story of Michail Mimikos and Mary Weber shocked Athens in 1893. Mimikos, a doctor, and Weber, a German governess at the palace, met and fell in love in what were then the Royal Gardens. When he fell ill and did not respond for several days, Mary believed he had abandoned her. She sent him an ultimatum demanding a meeting, but in an era of limited communication, he never received her letter in time. Distraught, she threw herself from a cliff beneath the Acropolis, and upon learning of her death, Mimikos took his own life.
It might be the melodies of street musicians playing the tunes of legendary Greek composer Manos Hadjidakis that draw you to Dionysiou Areopagitou Street – not only the most beautiful pedestrianized road in Athens but also one of the most stunning in the world. As you stroll past neoclassical and art-deco buildings on one side and
Solutions for demanding applications
When it comes to applications that demand the highest standards, FIBRAN products rise to the occasion. Our range of advanced solutions ensures durability, efficiency, and unmatched performance, tailored to meet the unique challenges of your projects. Choose FIBRAN for reliability and innovation in every application.
FIBRANtools
FIBRANskin
FIBRANxps
FIBRANgeo
FIBRANgyps
City break
THIS DENSELY POPULATED NEIGHBORHOOD – WITH ITS LUXURY APARTMENTS –WAS ONCE PASTURELAND STRETCHING UP TO THE SLOPES OF LYCABETTUS HILL.
the Acropolis on the other, you’ll encounter the ancient Theater of Dionysus. A little further along, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built in 160 AD, still electrifies Athenian evenings with its events, especially during the summer months.
Must-see museums
That mischievous god Eros isn’t done with you yet; he makes another appearance at the beautiful Acropolis Museum, which celebrated its 15th anniversary last June. His likenesses are displayed alongside treasures such as the Caryatids, a section of the Parthenon marbles, the statue of Athena the Virgin, and the magnificent Calf-Bearer, a statue dating back to around 560 BC. There’s also a “museum under the museum,” showcasing finds uncovered during the building’s construction. Here, you can explore an ancient neighborhood and get a glimpse into daily life in Athens from the 4th millennium BC to the 12th century AD. For a rendezvous with the gods on the most beautiful rooftop in Athens, head up to the museum’s café, where stunning views of the Parthenon accompany your coffee or meal – every Friday and Saturday, the menu features Greek PDO products.
You’ll encounter Eros at another must-see museum in the city as well: the National Archaeological Museum (44 28is Oktovriou). Here, a famous marble sculpture group depicts the god Eros struggling with the god Pan, pulling him away from Aphrodite. The museum is home to many other impressive artifacts, including the Mask of Agamemnon, a masterpiece of Mycenaean craftsmanship from the 16th century BC, and the Antikythera Mechanism, believed to be the world’s first analog computer.
Past and present
In just a few hundred meters, you leave behind the marble-carved remnants of ancient Athens and enter a world of wrought metal and vibrant
The view from Dexameni Square in Kolonaki.
Ermou Spirits Cava Pittaras is located in Monastiraki, right in the heart of Athens’ historic centre, and attracts people looking for unique wine, beer and spirits labels. It boasts a great collection of spirits and accompaniment snacks, which are handpicked to satisfy the customers' demands, as well as rare labels for collectors and fine drinking aficionados. Here you can purchase exquisite gift baskets for your colleagues and loved ones that can be delivered promptly to celebrate a special occasion. A range of freezers and wine coolers ensure your bottle is kept at the right temperature and ready to drink. The shop is open 7 days a week from 10:00 am until the early morning hours.
more than a LIQUORSTORE
90 Ermou str., Monastiraki, Athens. T.: +30 210 3229999
14-16 Argirokastrou str., Ζografou, Athens. T.: +30 210 7704627
spray paint. In the alleys of Psyrri, artisans labor in their workshops alongside themed restaurants and trendy bars, while the merchants of Abyssinia Square, just across Ermou Street, raise their blinds each morning to display stalls brimming with vintage treasures – from paintings and statuettes to clocks and old coins. In this edgier part of town, graffiti and murals color the streets as a new generation of Greeks experiments with creative ventures. Dance schools, t-shirt shops, bike shops, skate shops, and tattoo parlors coexist in a lively neighborhood that never sleeps.
Chic Kolonaki
Each neighborhood in Athens has its own distinct personality; just a few minutes from bustling Syntagma Square lies the upscale, unhurried area of Kolonaki. Here, the vibrant street aesthetics and thirst for fun that define Psyrri give way to a more sophisticated, stylish way of life. While the main square is currently under construction due to metro expansion, this won’t stop you from exploring the high-end shops, boutiques, and some of the city’s top art galleries, such as Crux, Skoufa Gallery, and Allouche Benias. It’s hard to imagine that back in the Ottoman era, before the founding of modern Greece, this densely populated neighborhood –with its luxury apartments – was once pastureland stretching up to the slopes of Lycabettus Hill. Today, it’s a favored spot for business lunches at places like Alfiere (5 Sekeri). If you’re in the mood for a speciality stand-up espresso, at Redd on Kapsali Street you can choose the country of origin for your shot.
Would-be writers might find inspiration in the shade of the elms at Dexameni, the historic sidewalk café once frequented by Nikos Kazantzakis and other literary greats. Others will savor the good food and the excellent people-watching. For a more profound cultural experience, visit the Museum of Cycladic Art (4 Neophytou Douka), where hauntingly beautiful figurines reveal the unique, austere forms of an
ancient civilization that have influenced modern masters.
Portraits of Miles Davis, Django Reinhardt, and other jazz legends gaze down from the walls at Jazz in Jazz (4 Dinokratous), a cozy bar perfect for enjoying a good whiskey and some fine music. It’s the ideal retreat for a winter night, and who knows? You might find Cupid lurking here, too.
Sunsets and surprises
According to an ancient myth, the goddess Athena was carrying a giant limestone boulder to fortify the
At the “Golden Hour,” the view of the city from Lycabettus Hill is spectacular.
Acropolis when something startled her, causing her to drop it. Thus, Lycabettus Hill was formed, offering one of the most spectacular sunset views in the city. You can reach the summit by cable car (1 Aristippou) or on foot via paths, such as the one starting just a few meters from Dexameni. The café Green Tent makes a great resting spot on your way up, or if you’re climbing the southwest slope, be sure to visit the medieval Saint Isidore Church, set within a cave on the hillside. Northeast of the church, the Lycabettus Theatre, an open-air performance venue, reopened last year after a 15-year hiatus and now hosts concerts again.
At the summit, where the small white Chapel of Aghios Georgios stands, the entire city lies at your feet. As the sun dips under the horizon, the golden light bathes the rooftops and the columns of the Parthenon, casting a magical glow over Athens. It’s a breathtaking moment, and in this perfect spot, you might feel Cupid’s
arrow strike, realizing you’ve fallen in love with the city spread out at your feet. Before the night fully takes hold and the city lights come up, make your way back down – there are still many more surprises waiting to be discovered in the twilight streets below.•
Favorite Flavors
At the crossroads of diverse culinary traditions, Athens offers fantastic restaurants and tavernas in every neighborhood. Here are a few centrally located favorites:
↳ Aghion Theodoron Square has become a hotspot for drinking and dining, featuring several standout spots: Odori, a vermuteria; Dopios, a Greek taverna; Kapsa, a new souvlaki place known for its handmade gyros; and Manari, the acclaimed venture of chef Aris Vezene, where the tender kid goat is a menu highlight.
↳ For the flavors of Hellenic Asia Minor, head to Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani (41 Evripidou), known for its cold cuts and other delicacies. Be warned, this is not a vegan-friendly spot. The recipes here come from the Karamanlis, the Turkish-speaking Greeks of Cappadocia, and feature specialties such as pastourma (air-cured beef flavored with a rich blend of spices). Pair it with a generous glass of tsipouro, a grape distillate.
Refueling at Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani.
We’re thrilled to seal exquisite liquid experiences.
Phelo is so much more than about offering a wellrounded assortment of premium wines and spirits. It is about applying deep knowledge, informed taste and genuine passion, to ourspirited determination to track down and offer you not only what is considered best, rare and ultra premium, but, first and foremost, what pairs perfectly with your personal taste and wishes. Imagine opening a rare bottle of wine you never thought you would find; or luxuriating in the aromas of a collectible extraspecial single malt Scotch whisky that your palate has longed for since forever. This is what Phelo is all about: Sealing the uniqueness of this experience in every precious bottle that reaches your hands.
Athens Tel. +302107217852 athens@phelo.gr
Mykonos Tel. +302289078620 order@phelo.gr
Right page: The Wind Tower, one of Athens’ most intriguing archaeological monuments, stands in the Roman Agora. Below: Within the Museum of Modern Greek Culture stand parts of the Roman wall constructed by Athenians after the Heruli raid in 267 AD.
BY MARO VASILIADOU
PHOTOS: PERIKLES MERAKOS
Areos Street
Twenty centuries in 200 meters
IN THE BUSTLING FLEA MARKET on Ifestou Street, visitors can find blackand-white photographs and vintage postcards capturing Monastiraki Square in the early 20th century. One such photograph, which captures Areos Street and a portion of the Roman Library of Hadrian, was taken from a window of the Ottoman mosque in the square. This iconic building, formerly the Tzistarakis Mosque, a remnant of the Ottoman era, is my first stop.
Crossing the cobblestones of Monastiraki Square, I step inside this historic structure which, after Greece’s independence, served as a barracks, a prison and a storage facility before being restored in 1915 by archaeologist Anastasios Orlandos to house the then newly established Museum of Modern Greek Culture. I explore the exhibits, pausing by the window overlooking Areos Street. While the view has changed over time, the road itself remains, inviting visitors to uncover the layers of Athens’ history. Back outside, I pass tourist shops on the right and the Roman Library of Hadrian on the left. This magnificent site, established by Emperor Hadrian between 130 and 132 AD, was opened to the public in 2004 after extensive excavations and restorations. Its grand scope makes it a favorite among visitors. I continue uphill to No. 10 Areos Street, where 18 meticulously restored 19th-century buildings spanning 4,000 square meters now make up yet more of the newly expanded Museum of Modern Greek Culture. This unique institution is dedicated to preserving and celebrating Greece’s tangible and intangible cultural treasures.
The neighborhood, bordered by Adrianou, Areos and Kladou Streets, is a tapestry of various eras and styles. Among its highlights are remnants of a Late Roman wall; the Byzantine Church of Aghios Thomas; and the gate and staircase of the Chomatianos-Logothetis mansion. Once the home of a British consul during Ottoman rule, the mansion is rumored to have been the site where Elgin prepared the Parthenon Sculptures for shipping. The nearby Church of Aghios Elissaios holds a special place in Greek literary history; it was here that Alexandros Papadiamantis, often called the “Saint of Greek Literature,” chanted during all-night vigils. Surrounding these landmarks are later structures featuring elements of Bavarian-Ottoman design and traditional folk architecture, providing further glimpses into Greece’s layered history.
The museum
The museum’s human-centered approach invites visitors to step into the living history of modern Greece, offering a window into the identities and daily lives of its people. I wander through the interconnected buildings, guided by my curiosity, but for those who prefer a more structured experience, a detailed map guides visitors through the museum’s carefully curated spaces. Each display feels like a time capsule, showcasing a vibrant mix of artifacts – travel mementos, cultural touchstones and heirlooms that seem to whisper stories of the lives that once surrounded them. Interactive digital installations and visual aids enrich the experience, transforming each exhibit into a living narrative.
From lively festivals and shadow puppet performances to the warm hum of traditional coffeehouses, the rhythm of communal life is captured here in the
RATHER THAN A STATIC COLLECTION, THE MUSEUM FEELS ALIVE, A PLACE WHERE ... HISTORY FEELS PERSONAL, TANGIBLE AND DEEPLY HUMAN.
museum. Handcrafted looms, intricate embroidery, jewelry and even vintage cooking tools bring the essence of Greek homes to life. Fashion accessories and traditional costumes from various eras round out this tapestry of cultural heritage. Rather than a static collection, the museum feels alive, a place where the ordinary has been transformed into the extraordinary and where history feels personal, tangible and deeply human. This journey through time can be rounded off with a visit to the museum’s café, set in an inner courtyard surrounded by the buildings housing its collections. I take a moment there to catch my breath before stepping back into the present day.
Dedicated to the Nobel Prize-winning poet, the Elytis House Museum is located in one of Plaka’s characteristic neoclassical buildings.
Still in a mood for exploration, I zigzag my way to Dioskouron Street, next to the archaeological site of the Roman Agora. Built by the Romans in the 1st century BCE, this marketplace was strategically located between the Acropolis – Athens’ most significant religious and symbolic landmark – and the Ancient Agora, the heart of the city’s commercial and political life.
A few steps further, at the intersection of Dioskouron and Polygnotou streets, a new museum, dedicated to the life and work of the Greek Nobel laureate poet Odysseas Elytis, opened its doors a few months ago. The Elytis House Museum allows visitors to engage with the poet’s simple lifestyle and his perception of art. His literary works – both poetry and prose, his translations, his visual artwork and his numerous musical compositions offer rich material for exploration. At the same time, the poet’s personal life is vividly presented through photographs, texts, and audiovisual material.
At first glance, I am struck by the intimate image I get of Elytis’ workspace: a narrow desk with his typewriter and glasses beside it, a dark wooden bookshelf overflowing with books, and a small wooden two-seater sofa of distinctly Skyrian design, the last draped
Left: A specially designed room in the Museum of Modern Greek Culture features frescoes by the folk painter Theophilos.
Below: Traditional regional costumes helped reinforce identity prior to the arrival of foreign fashion.
A NEW MUSEUM, DEDICATED TO THE LIFE AND WORK OF THE GREEK NOBEL LAUREATE POET
ODYSSEAS ELYTIS, OPENED ITS DOORS A FEW MONTHS AGO.
in a white crocheted throw. Next to the couch, a single armchair stands beside a small table. The walls above the sofa are adorned with paintings gifted by artists such as Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika, Yannis Tsarouchis and Nikos Nikolaou, lending warmth to the space and evoking the atmosphere of Elytis’ Skoufa Street apartment, where he lived and worked for three decades until his death.
Although the “Elytis House” in Plaka is small, it exudes a quiet dignity, drawing visitors into the essence of his poetry. In this humble setting, one can truly feel the full power of his art and understand its connection to his life.•
The KOMBOLOI MUSEUM is housed in a two storey building in the old town of Nafplion near the church of Agios Spyridon.
The historical journey of the Komboloi (Museum) is exhibited on the first floor through the private collection of the family Evangelinos and Gromitsari.
Old and new kombolois are sold and repaired on the ground floor (Shop and Workshop) mainly from all sorts of materials, mainly organic, such as amber from Baltic sea, “Mastic - Amber”, “Faturan”, wood, seed, horn, coral, bone, shell, artificial resin, crystal, etc, as well as original handmade amber and semiprecious stones jewellery.
During its twenty-year history, the Komboloi Museum has welcomed more than 350.000 visitors.
Staikopoulou 25, Nafplion
Τ: +0030 27520 21618
E: komuseum@otenet.gr www.komboloi.gr
Antiquing in ATHENS
Antiques expert and collector Dimitris Xanthoulis takes us on an Athenian treasure hunt, sharing insights into hidden gems and age-old rituals.
BY XENIA GEORGIADOU
PHOTOS: PERIKLES MERAKOS
Browsing for treasures in Avyssinias Square.
“YOU CAN’T MISS THE MARTINOS ANTIQUE AND FINE ART GALLERY –IT’S A STORY IN ITSELF,” SAYS COLLECTOR AND JOURNALIST DIMITRIS XANTHOULIS AS WE DISCUSS ATHENIAN ANTIQUE SHOPS AND MONASTIRAKI'S BUSTLING SUNDAY FLEA MARKET, AND MAKE PLANS TO VISIT THE BUSTLING BAZAAR THAT SPRINGS TO LIFE IN AVYSSINIAS SQUARE AND ITS IMMEDIATE SURROUNDINGS EVERY SUNDAY MORNING.
Period furniture, silver pistols, porcelain, glassware and Italian modernist chandeliers in one of the oldest antique shops in Athens.
MMARTINOS ANTIQUE AND FINE
ART GALLERY, a landmark which, since 1894, has been entwined with Athens’ urban transformation, is unquestionably the perfect place to start this journey through time. However, it’s not that close to Avyssinias Square and, moreover, it’s closed on Sundays. “We’ll need two days,” Xanthoulis declares, and so we arrange to meet first on Saturday morning at 50 Pandrossou Street.
Standing before the elegant three-story pre-war building that has housed the shop since 1926, we take in the striking facades designed by Takis
“ALL COLLECTORS MAKE MISTAKES. YOU WIND UP REALLY REGRETTING SOME OF YOUR PURCHASES, BUT THE NEXT WEEK YOU’RE BACK AT IT, CROUCHED OVER STALLS, LOOKING FOR MORE.”
Zenetos, one of Greece’s most celebrated postwar modernist architects. What I see through the shop window reminds me of a cabinet de curiosités: intricately adorned chests stacked with precision, 18th-century English silverware, traditional Skyrian chairs, and lithographs depicting Greek themes. There are also exquisite necklaces and belts from Macedonian and Attic costumes, and embroideries from the Cyclades and Epirus. Nineteenth-century silver pistols are elegantly displayed in built-in showcases; Oriental rugs and Italian modernist chandeliers add to the eclectic, timeless charm of this treasure trove of art and history.
Wherever we look, we’re greeted by different eras. Every object here serves as a reminder that slow living is not a modern concept – it’s a way of life we’ve merely rediscovered, reviving old habits and forgotten crafts. Each piece in this shop, sourced from diverse countries, periods and traditions, shares a common thread: the meticulous care and passion with which people once tended to even the simplest aspects of daily life.
Glassware for sale on Astingos Street.
As I ask questions about antique silver buttons and opaline vases, my companion’s attention is caught by an 18th-century Italian water jug and a low, square table with a ceramic top by Eleni Vernardaki, Greece’s most important contemporary ceramicist. “These days, I’m only interested in postwar Athenian ceramics and the works of Ira Triantafyllidi,” he says, even as he picks up the jug.
I ask Xanthoulis if he’s ever tempted to acquire something outside the scope of his collection, such as the item he’s holding.
“All the time! A collector’s always tempted, especially in a shop like this, where you’re surrounded by passion and expertise,” he says with a grin. “But
you have to be careful – space and money are always in short supply.”
We step outside and begin walking down the street, and I ask him how he first got into collecting.
“Honestly, I can’t remember anymore. I’ve always had a love for objects,” he says. “At first, I’d buy anything that caught my eye – glassware, tableware, silver, even some furniture. But over time, I’ve honed my focus to very specific items.”
And what about mistakes? How does one avoid them? “You can’t,” Xanthoulis says, smiling. “All collectors make mistakes. You wind up really regretting some of your purchases, but the next week you’re back at it, crouched over stalls, looking for more.”
We arrange our next meeting for eight o’clock the following morning in Avyssinias Square. I get the sense he’s eager to part ways for now, offering a polite excuse about not wanting to “ruin” my Saturday. The next morning, that suspicion is confirmed; collectors, it seems, treasure the solitude of their pursuit.
On the prowl
I arrive at the square earlier than expected. From a distance, I spot Xanthoulis – already there, scanning the scene. He tells me he’s been here since dawn. For him, the Monastiraki flea market is a sacred Sunday ritual, one he never misses when in Athens.
“I start on foot from my home in
Collectibles of all kinds on display in Avyssinias Square.
Syntagma and make my way to Monastiraki via Mitropoleos Street,” he says. “Along the way, I run into other collectors. We exchange greetings, share news, and often arrive here before the sellers even set out their wares. Then, each of us goes our separate way.”
I glance around, feeling both captivated and overwhelmed. Everything here looks extraordinary, yet utterly ordinary. How does one navigate this maze of objects? Xanthoulis, however, seems completely at ease. He thrives in the energy of the market – the voices, the sights, the playful banter. Goethe once said that collectors are happiest when they’re in their element; here, that sentiment is palpable.
It quickly becomes clear that this place holds everything: banknotes from the Occupation; tin toy trains from the ’50s; silverware; Danish dining chairs; wristwatches; gramophones; Viennese porcelain; woven rugs; ICARO ceramics; embroidery; a white leather armchair by Joe Colombo; 18th-century carved wooden mirrors; Rafaella Carrà records; and reproductions of Alekos Fassianos paintings.
How do you know if something is truly valuable?
“You don’t know at first,” my companion says, moving swiftly from one vendor to the next. “Your eye gets better over time. Things I walked past for years without noticing – I can spot them now.”
He slips into the narrow alleys, and I almost lose sight of him entirely – until the vendors, spotting him, begin calling his name, eager to show him something they think might catch his eye.
“What is Monastiraki, really?” I ask. “Hidden treasures buried in the mud, or just the forgettable wares of modern-day hawkers?”
“Monastiraki is Athens’ back door – the gateway to another world,” he says, stopping at a stall. He asks about the price of a small ceramic vase, one with an image of Mickey Mouse holding a Greek flag.
The bargaining begins. “Haggling is part of the ritual,” he says. “The vendors thrive on it; it’s what they look forward to.”
I wonder aloud how often he feels genuinely thrilled by a purchase.
“Not very often anymore,” he admits. “Sometimes, when nothing really catches my eye, I’ll bargain for something trivial – just a random trinket –to satisfy the itch to buy something. Then I keep wandering aimlessly. It’s like a bug, an obsession.”
What advice would he give to a visitor or a beginner collector?
“First, figure out what interests you,” he says. “Take your time exploring Monastiraki, and always haggle. Make your offer and hold firm. But most importantly, understand where you are.
You won’t find ancient pieces here –the oldest items date back to the late 18th century.”
He explains that fine objects from grand homes in cities like Athens or Thessaloniki were scarce in past centuries. Wealthy families were few, and when money did exist, it was typically spent on more practical concerns. “They needed to expand their landholdings or provide dowries for their children. As a result, expensive objects – especially those of foreign origin – were exceedingly rare.”
“The Greek bourgeoisie developed very differently from its European counterparts,” he continues. “We were – and still are – a relatively poor country. But Monastiraki is the perfect place for anyone seeking tangible remnants of Greek history, art and tradition.”•
A trip to Monastiraki’s shops is always a sacred ritual to collector Dimitris Xanthoulis.
A Hidden Gem of Greek Elegance on Athens’ Most Iconic Street
Nestled on the Acropolis pedestrian street, at Dionyssiou Areopagitou 6, Kirkis Eye is more than a boutique—it's a celebration of Greek design, art, and femininity. Since its establishment in 2016, Kirkis Eye has been a beacon for those seeking distinctive pieces crafted by talented Greek designers.
A LEGACY OF ART AND VISION
The soul behind Kirkis Eye, Kirki Tranaka , was raised amidst the historical charm of central Athens. Her father, the renowned photojournalist Spyridon Tranakas , instilled in her a deep appreciation for photography, art, and storytelling. Combining her passions for history, art, and fashion, Kirki envisioned a boutique that would honor the legacy of Greek creativity while offering modern, timeless styles.
WHERE STYLE MEETS THE SPIRIT OF ATHENS
Located steps away from the iconic Parthenon, Kirkis Eye curates
a collection that celebrates femininity with elegant streetwear and glamorous options for festive occasions. Every piece is handpicked, refl ecting a commitment to quality, sophistication, and individuality. The boutique isn’t just a place to shop—it’s an intimate space where clients are guided to discover their unique style through personalized attention.
CELEBRATE YOUR UNIQUENESS
At Kirkis Eye, fashion becomes a journey of self-expression. Whether you're strolling the picturesque streets of Athens or dressing for an unforgettable evening, our collection promises to enhance your confidence and highlight your beauty.
Visit Kirkis Eye and experience the charm of Greek fashion with a touch of timeless elegance. Let us help you fi nd the perfect pieces to express your individuality and connect with the artistry of Athens.
www.kirkiseye.gr
info@kirkiseye.gr
Kirki’s eye kirkis.eye
AT THE ATHENS ENGLISH COMEDY CLUB, A DIVERSE CROWD ENJOYS BOLD HUMOR AS SEASONED PROS AND FRESH TALENTS SHARE THE STAGE, PROVING THAT LAUGHTER TRANSCENDS ALL BORDERS.
BY GIORGOS PSOMIADIS
PUNCHLINES
PHOTOS: YANNIS ZINDRILIS
Night Out
Without Borders
The Australian comedian Elena Gabrielle wows the audience at the Athens English Comedy Club.
Night Out
IIT'S SATURDAY NIGHT in the gritty Votanikos industrial district. The entrance to the small Eliart Theater, nestled between underground clubs, apartment buildings and warehouses, is alive with excitement. The crowd is a colorful mix of young expats, students, retirees and curious tourists eager to explore Athens’ winter nightlife from a new angle. Standing in clusters on the threshold, chatting and laughing, they share the familiar camaraderie of a secretive yet welcoming club gathering for a cherished ritual.
Most of them weren’t born or raised in Athens; their paths to Greece are as diverse as their personal stories. But tonight, they’ve all come with the same aim: to laugh.
As the theater doors swing open, the crowd pours inside, settling into their seats beneath the soft, intimate glow of the stage lights. A round of enthusiastic applause greets the night’s first comedian. Another show by the Athens English Comedy Club is about to begin.
Athina Kefalopoulos, a dynamic young actress with boundless energy, steps up to greet the audience. Back in 2019, she had an ambitious vision: to create an English-language stand-up show in Athens. At the time, options for non-Greek speakers seeking comedy were practically nonexistent. When she shared her idea with some of Greece's top comedians, their enthusiastic response gave her the push she needed:
“Go for it, and we’ll perform.”
“This is how we’ve made it to our sixth season,” Kefalopoulos says, her face lighting up with a proud smile moments after she steps off stage, having passed the microphone to the next performer. “This place has become a home away from home for many non-Greeks living in Athens. Here, they feel safe. They might see someone from their own country or hear a joke in a language they understand,” she explains.
Her voice softens as she recalls a touching memory from the previous year. An elderly couple from England who attended the New Year’s Eve show. “Some people, like that couple, can’t return to their home countries for the holidays. I’ll never forget them. They lived in Crete and had come to Athens for Christmas. They arrived at the show dressed in their finest. You could see the emotion on their faces – as if they’d found something familiar, something that made them feel like they belonged.”
Kefalopoulos herself is no stranger to living between cultures. She grew up in Russia, Scotland, Norway, and Sweden. “For breakfast, I eat snow,” she joked during her set earlier, poking fun at her nomadic upbringing. After finishing her studies in Scotland – where her sociology degree cleverly masked her true passion for acting – she returned to Greece and began collaborating with local comedians, producing shows in Athens.
Back then, she never imagined she’d be at the center of a growing international network of English-language comedy clubs one day, pitching performers and hosting comedians from across Europe. “Comedy clubs are like a pack of Dalmatians,” she says with a laugh. “We’re all connected, part of a tight-knit, supportive network that supports artists and opens doors for them.”
Every two weeks, the Athens English Comedy Club transforms Eliart Theater into a place for laughter,
The club’s founder Athina Kefalopoulos relaxes before taking the stage for yet another Saturday performance.
Unique style - Distinctive luxury for exclusive visitors!
ELYSIAN LUXURY HOTEL & SPA 5 ***** introduces a brand-new holistic holiday experience and redefines the essence of luxury accommodation in Kalamata. Located on a waterfront property where the endless blue of the Messinian sea meets the blue of the clear Greek sky.
Set amidst a serene landscape, embraced by the endless blue of the sea and adorned with windswept palm trees, our infinity shaped swimming pool invites you to enjoy summer time at its best. Take in the view while you laze around the pool surrounded by gazebos and sun beds.
An elegant collection of 44 luxury rooms and suites with 22 private pools welcome our guests to an oasis of splendor. Choose one of our 22 luxury rooms or 22 luxury suites from a palette of colors that captivate the infinite white, the light blue, the soothing colors of the earth, the stylish grey or black, and the mysterious deep violet.
Night Out
drawing a full house of eager comedy fans. Performances come from a vibrant mix of seasoned international touring comedians, bilingual performers and well-known names from Greece’s standup scene, keen to test their material in another language. The club also hosts open mic nights, inviting anyone bold enough to grab the microphone and try their hand at comedy. The stand-up audience in Athens has, according to Kefalopoulos, grown significantly in recent years. A large portion of the audience consists of diplomats and other transient professionals, and there’s a steady turnover as each group of nomads eventually moves on.
“After the pandemic, people started watching more stand-up online and on Netflix,” Kefalopoulos says. While headliners such as John Cleese and Daniel Sloss have drawn massive crowds to major venues such as the Odeon of Herodes Atticus and the Christmas Theater, local audiences also show enthusiasm for emerging English-speaking comedians.
THE RELATABILITY OF EVERYDAY GREEK LIFE PROVIDES ENDLESS FODDER FOR HUMOR, AND THE UNIQUE LIFESTYLE OF GREEKS OFTEN SERVES AS PERFECT ICEBREAKER MATERIAL.
“English is a more concise language compared to Greek,” Kefalopoulos notes. “I only need 15 words in English to deliver a joke that would take 23 words in Greek. The rhythm flows quicker, and that makes it easier for the audience to follow or enjoy the humor.”
Unfiltered Humor
Tonight, the audience has gathered to see Australian comedian Elena Gabrielle. She takes the stage to warm applause, following a hilarious set by Kynthia, the evening’s second performer, who had the crowd in stitches with her take on the quirks of a classic Greek grandmother. The relatability of everyday Greek life provides endless fodder for humor, and the unique lifestyle of Greeks often serves as perfect icebreaker material for foreign comedians starting their sets.
“It’s 10 o’clock – this is my bedtime. Is this normal for you?” Gabrielle quips, immediately drawing laughter as she launches into a string of absurd yet hilarious anecdotes from her life.
The evening’s comic lineup poses for a picture after the Athens English Comedy Club’s Third Anniversary Show.
Stop by Stepa!
At the bustling corner of Asklipiou and Dervenion streets in Athens' vibrant Exarchia district, Stepa has emerged as a standout all-day destination. With an industrial look softened by warm details, this venue, which effortlessly transitions from a daytime coffee spot to an evening hangout, features an impressive 12-meter-long bar and a bright upstairs workspace.
The all-day menu combines comfort and creativity, with standout dishes, vegan and otherwise, ranging from juicy, grilled meatballs with xygalo sauce to avocado ceviche with sea grapes.
The bar serves inventive cocktails and interesting twists on classics, crafted with house-made ingredients and premium spirits.
With specialty coffee, soul and trip-hop soundtracks, and a prime people-watching location, Stepa perfectly captures contemporary Athenian culture in one of the city's most dynamic neighborhoods.
Gnou: Wholesome Food, Happy Mood
Gnou grazes in the heart of Kypseli, offering a brand new refreshing escape with nature-inspired delights.
Start your day with our vegan options, paired with aromatic coffees and fresh juices. From noon onwards, check out our warm food display case filled with fresh, delicious dishes and varied à la carte choices. Those who appreciate a fine drink in the evening can indulge in our natural wines and homemade bottled cocktails.
Gnou promises a revitalizing experience, combining taste and tranquility in one of Athens’ most vibrant neighborhoods. Drop by and experience Kypseli’s vegan spirit at Gnou!
→13 Eptanisou, Kypseli
• Tel. (+30) 210.882.5907
• instagram: @gnou.athens
Her material boldly confronts those awkward truths we usually sweep under the rug or whisper about to close friends. From stories of awkward sexual encounters, disastrous online dates and catastrophic one-night stands to commentary tackling negative stereotypes about various nationalities, her humor is fearless. She also takes aim at boomers navigating technology for the first time and explores the peculiar things people do when they’re home alone.
For an hour, Gabrielle masterfully pokes fun at sensitive contemporary issues, wrapping them in sharp, nuanced humor that feels distinctly fresh in the English language.
“I have performed in 67 countries,” she tells me after the show, once she’s greeted fans eager to chat with her. “I love Athens. I love performing here. Everyone is so loud and having so much fun. It’s a different style of comedy – a different kind of vibe – compared to places like Germany. In Greece, people laugh more when I’m more animated and act things
out. Everywhere I go, people laugh at different things, and I love that.
This is my third time here – I did shows in 2018 – but I’ve definitely noticed how much English stand-up has grown in Athens since COVID.”
I ask the comedian if she ever filters her material depending on the cultural sensitivities of the places she performs.
“Religion is a big thing, and I don’t really talk about it,” she admits. “Obviously, in this show, I did a few jokes. I grew up Catholic, so I feel like I can make fun of it – Catholics are the easiest for me to joke about. In India, though, you can’t make jokes about politics or religion; in Hong Kong, you can’t say anything about China – that’s super risky for the club. So, I stick more to dating or family stuff.”
Greek culture is something she’s been familiar with all her life, albeit through the lens of growing up in Melbourne. I ask her which aspect of it provides the most material for a comedian.
Night Out
“I think it’s the Greek men,” she laughs. “I grew up with a lot of Greek-Australian men, so I get their vibe, and I find it fascinating. But also, the culture and the vibe in Athens – the laid-back way of living – is amazing. I love that about Mediterranean culture, and I see it in Cyprus as well.”
As the show wraps up, Kefalopoulos bids farewell to the audience. Many in the crowd linger, chatting animatedly about the jokes that hit home. People introduce themselves to each other, and some choose continue their Saturday night together in another corner of Athens. Most will return here in two weeks; some might even grab the mic themselves and take a turn on the stage.
“We’ve had people from 36 different countries in our audience,” Kefalopoulos tells me proudly as the crowd drifts out. “You must find a way to make everyone laugh. My goal is to see people from every country in the world pass through here.”•
Left: Lining up at the door. Center: Athina Kefalopoulos greets the crowd. Right: Comedian Kynthia warms up the audience with a routine on Greek grandmothers.
• ATHENS ENGLISH COMEDY CLUB, Eliart Theater 127 Konstantinoupoleos, Votanikos
WINE BARS ARE NOW A CORNERSTONE OF ATHENIAN NIGHTLIFE, AS AN INTERNATIONAL TREND GOES LOCAL WITH A MODERN AESTHETIC AND A DISTINCTLY GREEK PERSONALITY. BUT JUST WHAT IS IT THAT MAKES THEM SO POPULAR?
Show me THE WAY to the next wine bar!
BY MARINA PETRIDOU
PHOTOS: ΑΝGELOS GIOTOPOULOS
A high-end sound system and Alsatian wines
at Kennedy.
It’s a Friday night. The large communal table at the center of the bar is full; outside, patrons stand casually, wine glasses in hand. A cheerful buzz fills the air. Some guests are waiting for a seat, while others relax on stools or nearby steps. Bottles are being uncorked, and enticing small plates, perfect for sharing, are being served at the bar. Wine bottles, some available for purchase to take away, fill the shelves. Welcome to one of Athens’ newgeneration wine bars – modern and inviting spots that have become a go-to choice for an evening out.
DJ sets at Fellos
At Kennedy, there’s always something new on the wine list.
Food complements the wine at Epta
Martyres.
A lively atmosphere prevails at Fellos.
AAT MOST OF THESE PLACES, reservations aren’t necessary and the crowd favors natural, low-intervention wines at approachable prices. The establishments serve small, thoughtfully crafted dishes, and the service is relaxed and unpretentious. The atmosphere is friendly and youthful, never heavy or snobbish. Guests can enjoy wines by the glass, making it easy to explore new options or to stick to a favorite. Music, too, has become a key part of the experience. Carefully curated playlists or guest DJs set the tone, with eclectic sounds delivered by high-quality sound systems, enhancing the ambiance without overwhelming the conversation. What sets most of today’s Athenian wine bars apart is a commitment to working with small, independent producers and to adopting sustainable practices. Below, we highlight a selection of standout wine bars that embrace innovation and champion new trends.
Next-generation sommeliers
At Gamay in Exarchia (42 Zoodochou Pigis), there’s a deliberate effort to demystify wine, making it more approachable while creating a relaxed and inviting atmosphere. Here, the sommelier might even be the casually dressed server; the environment is free of pretense, a formula that’s captivated the city’s wine enthusiasts. Co-owner Yannis Pappas curates a wine list featuring over 120 low-intervention labels, including many new and hard-to-find
WHAT SETS THESE WINE BARS APART IS THEIR COMMITMENT
TO WORKING WITH SMALL, INDEPENDENT PRODUCERS AND TO ADOPTING SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES.
options. Rather than using technical jargon, he describes wines in vivid, sensory terms, making it easy to imagine the flavors and aromas.
“Wine requires imagination,” Pappas says. “It’s not just about discussing it methodically; it’s about feeling it. I read, taste, visit wine bars and share my thoughts with customers about what I experience when drinking a particular glass.” Explaining the complexity of a wine, he says, “You take a sip, and suddenly you’re tasting homemade plum jam from your mom’s kitchen or sweet cherry tomatoes from Santorini.” As for the aromas, he says, “It’s as if the entire Kallidromiou farmers’ market [a bustling open-air market in Athens] is in your glass.”
Small plates, big flavors
At Epta Martyres in Neos Kosmos (3b Menechmou), the focus isn’t just on wine – it’s also on a menu crafted daily with fresh, seasonal ingredients sourced from local markets. Inspired by the tsipouradiko tradition – a Greek dining style where small plates of meze (similar to tapas) accompany glasses of tsipouro (a traditional grape-based spirit) – chef Serafeim Athanasiou prepares a progression of small dishes that make up your meal. For instance, your first glass of wine might be paired with charred cabbage, followed by steamed mussels or raw oysters, and later, cuttlefish with greens. Each dish costs €5 and arrives as a surprise; customers don’t order specific items but enjoy what the chef has prepared that day. This element of spontaneity, paired with the affordable pricing, encourages diners to explore the full range of flavors on offer.
From fabric store to wine bar
In a former fabric shop tucked away just off Aiolou Street, four friends in their thirties have created Fellos (Vasilikis and Kolokotroni streets) , a wine bar offering Greek wines and expertly crafted spritzes (refreshing
cocktails made with sparkling wine). The atmosphere is welcoming, the service quick and attentive, and the menu thoughtfully curated.
The wine list, designed by Vasiliki Galani, a sommelier at the wine bar Materia Prima, showcases low-intervention wines from Greek and Cypriot vineyards and features around 40 bottle options at prices that start at €20; several are available by the glass.
The small kitchen, helmed by Ilias Balaskas – chef and owner of Seawolf in Koukaki – delivers meze-style plates designed to pair perfectly with the drinks. Dishes include marinated anchovies with pepper and apricot chutney, creamy taramosalata (a traditional dip made with fish roe), and shrimp skewers. These carefully crafted bites complement both the wine and the overall experience.
Emphasis on high-quality sound
A growing trend in the world’s major cities is the rise of listening bars, where exceptional-quality sound systems take center stage, while drinks and food play a supporting role. The concept isn’t entirely new; it originated in the 1920s in Tokyo with their jazz kissa (jazz cafés) but has, in recent years, has been reinterpreted in new and creative ways.
Inspired by this trend, Kennedy (9 Nikiou), a wine bar by Christos Kontos – a photographer and publisher of a magazine of the same name – opened in downtown Athens. “I’ve been passionate about sound systems for years; I’m an audiophile,” Kontos says. “I buy, repair, upgrade, and have built a large collection of equipment. At Kennedy, I created a sound system that’s unique – and not just by Greek standards.”
At Tanini Agapi Mou, it’s strictly Greek selections only.
Nightlife
In parallel with his pursuit of high-quality sound, Kontos developed a deep appreciation for wine. Traveling to Alsace, where his wife is from, he visited numerous wineries, tasted their wines, and met the winemakers personally. This journey inspired him to import their products, making the wines at Kennedy exclusive to the bar – you won’t find these labels anywhere else in Athens. The wine list, which features low-intervention wines, is frequently updated with new additions. What’s more, all wines are available by the glass, allowing patrons to explore a variety of flavors.
Local producers and sustainability
“We love Greek wine, and we serve only Greek labels,” says Eva Bololia, one of the co-owners of Tanini Agapi Mou in Exarchia (91 Ippokratous &
Methonis). “We’re always on the lookout for pioneering winemakers, rare Greek grape varieties, and vineyards cultivated organically or biodynamically.” The bar, the first in Athens to focus exclusively on low-intervention wines, also champions sustainability through its commitment to the circular economy, using only recyclable or biodegradable packaging. Even the furniture is crafted by independent artisans who prioritize eco-friendly practices. This dedication to supporting small producers and promoting sustainability has made it a standout destination for conscientious wine lovers in Athens.
Parisian influences
The roots of modern wine bars can be traced back to Paris. According to Aaron Ayscough, author of The World of Natural Wine, the French capital became a “powerful cultural force” for the natural wine movement in the 1980s. It was at this time that the concept of the cave à manger emerged: small, informal bars where wine enthusiasts gathered to share bottles, often accompanied by simple charcuterie and cheese boards.
In Athens, Wine is Fine (6 Vissis) brings a touch of Parisian flair. Two Frenchmen, Raphaël Vallon-Brownstone and Thomas Brenguier, working
with Greek chef Stavros Chrysafidis, curate a selection of low-intervention wines, mostly from Greece and France, with additional labels from Portugal, Italy, Slovenia and beyond. Only a handful of wines are available by the glass (starting at €5); the total list boasts around 80 options. The menu emphasizes small bites, perfect for sharing, with just two or three main dishes and a variety of snacks ranging from homemade pâté to simple boiled eggs with mayonnaise.
Wine bars evolving into wine clubs
While wine bars initially started as spaces for relaxed, high-quality wine experiences, a new trend is transforming them into livelier “wine clubs,” where the atmosphere becomes more dynamic as the night unfolds. In Paris, for example, the popular establishment Bambino changes gears after midnight: tables are cleared away, making room for patrons to dance.
Athens is embracing this evolution, too, with wine bars increasingly incorporating louder music and standing-room-only setups, making them lively hotspots for socializing, drinking and dancing. These venues are quickly joining the city’s lineup of new wave bars, where the nightlife moves in a more energetic way.•
At Gamay, there’s a relaxed approach to fine wines.
Greek architecture and design reflect a lifestyle that is deeply intertwined with natural beauty, cultural heritage, and the Mediterranean spirit. The team at A&M Architects, a multidisciplinary Athens-based firm, shares key elements that make Greek design so distinctive. Here’s how we create spaces that are both timeless and uniquely Greek.
1. Climate: Designing for Comfort and Harmony
The country’s intense summer heat poses a challenge that architecture can ingeniously address by balancing comfort with sustainability. Sheltered homes emerge as a compelling solution, harmonizing with the natural topography while leaving almost untouched. These architectural strategies utilize the earth’s innate cooling properties, creating comfortable living spaces through passive heating and cooling methods. By minimizing energy consumption and embracing nature’s rhythms, they offer a blueprint for sustainable living that celebrates the unique climate of Greece.
2. Tradition: A Dialogue with the Past
Inspired by the timeless forms of Cycladic architecture, A&M Architects reinterpret historic motifs to craft spaces that feel both contemporary and authentic. The vibrant interplay of curved lines, bold geometric patterns, and a palette rooted in natural earth tones and whites evokes the simplicity of the past while embracing modern materials and techniques. In these designs, traditional elements like stone and terracotta are paired with sleek forms, bold colors and playful lighting, creating a balance between heritage and forward-thinking aesthetics. This transformation not only preserves Greek identity but also redefines how traditional influences shape contemporary design.
3. Connection to Nature & the Sea: Living in the Landscape
The concept of blurring the boundaries between nature and the built environment, has become necessary in Mediterranean cultures. By inviting natural light, greenery, and fresh air into the interior, these designs foster a sense of harmony and continuity. The careful placement of furniture and materials mirrors the natural surroundings, creating a fluid connection where the indoors feels like an extension of the outdoors. This approach not only enhances aesthetic appeal but also promotes a calming, immersive experience rooted in nature.
BY NENA DIMITRIOU, GEORGIA PAPASTAMOU, MARINA PETRIDOU & ANGELA STAMATIADOU
HOT TABLES
What’s simmering in Athens? The city’s restaurant scene is thriving, blending fresh new concepts with timeless classics that have never lost their appeal. From tavernas with sidewalk tables tucked among historic storefronts to sleek sushi bars crafting nigiri from Greece’s finest native fish, Athens’ hottest dining spots deliver an unforgettable mix of atmosphere and flavor that encapsulates the spirit of contemporary gastronomy. We’ve curated a mini list of the most coveted venues, where innovative chefs and passionate restaurateurs set the stage for extraordinary experiences.
At Manari, a new eatery on a small city square that’s full of dining options. GREECE
Akra
In Athens, many chefs champion local ingredients, seasonality and sustainability, but if we had to pick one restaurant that truly embodies these values – almost to an obsessive degree – it would be Akra. Here, the team knows their producers by their first names, and the menu, which changes daily, reflects the very essence of each season. The hallmark of their kitchen is the open flame; it’s at the heart of their cooking. Signature dishes such as goat pasta and the caramelized milk tart with milk and honey ice cream have become instant hits. Try the Greek breakfast, which features traditional pies served fresh every morning.
A meal at a Greek taverna is an experience not to be missed: juicy lamb chops (best enjoyed with your hands), zesty tzatziki, steamed wild greens, savory pies and delectable offal dishes often dominate the menu. Manari embraces these classic flavors. Behind this project is one of Athens’ most acclaimed chefs, Ari Vezené, known for his mastery of the art of meat (his other venture, named simply Vezené, is celebrated for its rare livestock breeds and unique cuts). All the meats at Manari are locally sourced, with some coming directly from partnerships with shepherds. Expect a thoughtfully curated selection of Greek wines alongside premium tsipouro. Manari offers the authentic taverna experience with a dash of style, set in a sleek and carefully designed space.
Tucked away in a quiet neighborhood just a stone’s throw from the city center – but far from the typical tourist spots – Taverna ton Filon has swiftly become a favorite among Athenians. Located in a long-abandoned space that once housed a historic Athenian taverna, it serves a perfect fusion of traditional and contemporary Greek cuisine paired with great local wines. The wine list, carefully assembled, showcases rare grape varieties and unique winemaking techniques with selections chosen for their exceptional taste and character. The casual, effortlessly cool vibe and warm, attentive service make it a standout destination. The highlights of the menu, which changes daily, may include tender octopus with potatoes; charcoal-grilled calamari with spinach rice; and a rich, slow-braised goat in tomato sauce served with pasta.
66 Argous, Kolonos, Tel. (+30) 210.512.7506
At Manari, an updated version of the traditional Greek taverna.
At Taverna ton Filon for flavorful seasonal dishes and a great wine selection.
At Akra, where topquality ingredients come raw or incorporated into dishes cooked over open flames.
GREECE
At RawBata for Greek fusion cuisine.
Antonis Drakoularakos, sushi superstar at Sushimou.
Reservations
Sushimou
Antonis Drakoularakos went to Japan as a passionate amateur, determined to learn the intricacies of sushi-making. Returning to Athens, he launched Sushimou, a celebrated one-man sushi bar, now in its ninth year. Here, the precision of Japanese prepatory techniques is applied to the freshest catches from Greek waters. The €55 set menu focuses exclusively on nigiri and sashimi, highlighting seasonal fish such as anchovy, sardine, mackerel, grouper, scorpionfish, shrimp, langoustine, cuttlefish and squid. Each dish is served simply garnished to let the natural flavors shine.
The entire experience unfolds at a 12-seat counter, offering diners an intimate view of the chef’s meticulous and mesmerizing actions. While an additional 12 guests can be accommodated at sidewalk tables, spots here are still highly sought after. Open only on weekdays, Sushimou operates with strict time slots to facilitate a pleasing dining experience for all lucky enough to book space.
As for drinks, options include sake, sake-based cocktails, beer, whisky and a selection of Greek wines. For those who prefer, the BYOW (bring your own wine) option is also available, allowing for a personalized pairing.
6 Skoufou, Tel. (+30) 211.407.8457
Step into RawBata, where chef Polychronis Damalas, a prominent figure in Athens’ culinary scene for over three decades, is bringing his first solo venture to life. The space is eye-catching, with an open white kitchen proudly displaying the slogan “me and my fusion” in bold red letters, complemented by mosaic details and the chef’s favorite artwork on the walls. As the name suggests, RawBata marries raw dishes with creations grilled on a Japanese robata while also offering a selection of cooked specialties.
Damalas’ menu adapts to the season’s freshest ingredients, showcasing vibrant marinated fish with crisp vegetables and fruits alongside expertly grilled seafood from the Japanese oven. The standout dishes include trachanas (a type of fermented cracked wheat) with rich, tender mutton; slowcooked beef neck in a fragrant green curry; and melt-in-your-mouth braised beef cheeks, served with a silky purée and a sauce made from the meat’s own jus. The lively and unpretentious atmosphere makes RawBata a deliciously fun dining experience.
33 Lakonias, Ambelokipi, Tel. (+30) 210.692.3796
RawBata
At Sushimou for the freshest and tastiest nigiri made from local fish.
Pharaoh
Pharaoh is where you might find the cast of an international series filming in Athens, a Parisian art dealer, a food journalist or the city’s coolest crowd – from downtown trendsetters to the most discerning diners from the suburbs. They come for the laid-back, feel-good atmosphere, warm hospitality, vinyl soundtracks and one of Athens’s most carefully curated natural wine lists. In the kitchen, Chef Manolis Papoutsakis indulges his passion for traditional Greek cuisine, albeit with a distinct focus on the bold, rustic flavors of Crete.
The open kitchen features live-fire cooking, a wood-burning stove and a traditional wood oven, and produces simple yet intensely flavorful dishes. The seasonal menu might include trachanas (a type of fermented cracked wheat) with pumpkin, succulent langoustines drizzled with stakovoutyro (Cretan clarified butter), or tender goat served with sautéed wild greens. Pharaoh’s understated charm and soulful food make it a must-visit for those seeking an authentic taste of Greece in a vibrant setting.
54 Solomou, Exarchia, Tel. (+30) 210.380.8412
Linou Soumpasis
kai Sia
In the vibrant Psyrri district, surrounded by old workshops and new boutique hotels, Linou Soumpasis kai Sia has quickly become a favorite destination, praised for its distinctive decor and inviting atmosphere. Chef Lukas Mailer’s culinary philosophy is rooted in authenticity, with an unwavering focus on seasonality and top-quality ingredients. Expect carefully sourced ingredients such as dairy products from the Monastery of the Holy Cross, extra virgin olive oil from Ancient Olympia, green olive oil from Kalamata, langoustines from the Evian Gulf, Lemnos beans, Florina giant beans, and wild mushrooms foraged from the Mongostou Forest in Corinthia.
Mailer’s approach emphasizes simplicity, letting the flavors of organic vegetables and Naxos-sourced meats shine. The menu pays homage to Greek culinary traditions, with standout dishes like chickpea soup enhanced with fresh mussels and fragrant herbs – a winter favorite that captures the chef’s delicate touch. Finish with one of the daily desserts, which range from fragrant almond cakes to rich chocolate tarts.
The wine list offers a curated selection of 25-30 labels, balancing the Greek terroir with international gems from vineyards as far-flung as Georgia and beyond. The dining room is illuminated by the soft glow of all-natural candles, also available for purchase if you’d like to take a piece of this cozy ambiance home.
Talking archaeology and science with the British School at Athens
Experiencing the past at the ancient site of Kerameikos
Interbellum Architecture: The capital’s Eclectic and Modernist gems
A nexus of Hellenic research, the British School at Athens has been connecting UK and Greek scholarship for nearly 140 years.
BY DUNCAN HOWITT-MARSHALL
BUILDING BRIDGES
PHOTOS: YANNIS ZINDRILIS
The main building of the British School at Athens, in Kolonaki, is home to the offices, library and the Macmillan Hostel.
Right: Dr. Tulsi Parikh, BSA Research Associate, in the BSA library, one of the world’s largest libraries dedicated to Hellenic Studies.
IIN A QUIET CORNER OF KOLONAKI, just a short walk from Athens’ historic center, stands the British School at Athens (BSA). Although not a traditional school, the BSA is one of 19 foreign research institutes in the Greek capital, dedicated to the academic exploration of Hellenic history and culture across a wide range of disciplines. Over its nearly 140-year history, the BSA has made groundbreaking contributions to Greek archaeology, art history and the social sciences, supported by state-of-the-art facilities, an extensive library and impressive archives.
The BSA’s success is closely tied to its long-standing partnerships with the Greek state and local and international institutions alike. It works in close collaboration with Greece’s Ministry of Culture on archaeological projects and preservation initiatives. Through its partnerships with universities and research foundations in Greece, the UK and beyond, the BSA amplifies its impact, fostering a rich exchange of knowledge and expertise. These collaborations not only enhance the quality of research but also strengthen the BSA’s role as a vital link between UK and Greek academic communities, creating a dynamic environment for shared intellectual pursuits.
A cornerstone of the BSA is the Marc and Ismene Fitch Laboratory for Archaeological Science, which embodies the institution’s commitment to interdisciplinary research. Established in 1974, the laboratory has long been a bridge between science and history. From its early days to the present, it has collaborated with researchers to explore key archaeological questions and uncover patterns related to topics such as the economy and human mobility. Over the past 50 years, the Fitch Laboratory has become a crucial hub for researchers from Greece, the UK, and beyond. In addition to conducting cutting-edge research, the lab plays a key role in the BSA’s mission to mentor and educate future scholars through awards, fellowships, internships and intensive training programs.
A plan of the Palace of Knossos alongside Piet de Jong’s original watercolors of artifacts from Knossos, from the Sinclair Hood Collection in the BSA Archive.
THE BSA WAS FOUNDED TO SUPPORT BRITISH SCHOLARS WORKING IN GREECE. THE SCHOOL PROVIDED ESSENTIAL RESOURCES SUCH AS A LIBRARY AND HOSTEL, OFFERING A PLACE TO LIVE AND WORK.
At the helm of the BSA is Professor Rebecca Sweetman, an expert in classical archaeology and ancient history with a focus on Roman and Late Antique Greece. Her leadership is centered on building international scholarly networks, advancing innovative research, and broadening access to the school by promoting diversity at all levels. Rebecca also aims to harness digital technologies to improve research accessibility and collaboration. Her dynamic approach seeks to modernize the institution while honoring its rich legacy.
Dr. Evangelia Kiriatzi, the Director of the Fitch Laboratory, is a leading archaeological scientist who specializes in the study of craft technologies. Her work has significantly advanced our understanding of craft traditions and human mobility in the Mediterranean from prehistory to the present. Under her guidance, the laboratory remains at the forefront of scientific archaeology, encouraging cross-disciplinary collaborations and serving as an international training center. Together, Sweetman (RS) and Kiriatzi (EK) represent the innovative leadership propelling the BSA into the 21st century. Their combined efforts underscore the institution’s commitment to understanding the human past while embracing modern advancements, making the BSA a vital center for Hellenic studies and a beacon of scholarly excellence. I had the opportunity to speak with both of these leaders to gain insights into their perspectives on the evolving landscape of Hellenic research, the BSA’s role in contemporary academia, and the exciting developments on the horizon.
Founded in 1886, the British School at Athens (BSA) was the fourth foreign archaeological institute established in Athens, following the French, German and American schools. Could you provide a brief overview of the BSA’s founding, its early history, and evolution over the years?
rs: In the late 19th century, travel and communication were challenging, making it difficult to study Greek history and archaeology. As a result, the BSA was founded to support British scholars working in Greece. The school provided essential resources such as a library and hostel, offering a place to live and work, learn Greek and engage with other scholars in Athens. It was an exciting time, as Greece was emerging as an independent country and gaining international recognition for its archaeology, in part due to Sir Arthur Evans’ work at Knossos and Heinrich Schliemann’s discoveries at Mycenae.
A key objective of the BSA from the beginning was to contribute to the Greek State’s mission of professionally recovering and protecting antiquities – an aim that remains central to our work today.
Some of the BSA’s earliest projects included archaeological research on the island of Milos and in the region around Sparta. However, the school has always embraced a broad interest in Greece beyond just archaeology. This is evident in the Annual of the British School at Athens (ABSA), its flagship journal, which first appeared in 1894. The inaugural issue featured articles on topics as diverse as the Battle of Marathon, St. Paul and the Areopagus, and excavations by the Greek Archaeological Society at Rhamnous. Over 130 years later, the ABSA is still published annually, with articles spanning subjects from Bronze Age Linear B tablets to mapping Patrick Leigh Fermor’s journey through the Mani, reflecting the BSA’s wide-ranging focus.
Given its long history, some might assume the BSA is an ivory tower for tweedy scholars. But in fact, it’s quite the opposite! The school has always fostered collaboration and interdisciplinarity, connecting researchers across various fields. Indeed, this deep knowledge base has allowed BSA members to work closely with their Greek hosts during difficult times. One notable example is John Pendlebury (1904-1941), a British archaeologist and intelligence officer. Pendlebury, a former BSA student and later the Curator at Knossos, spoke Greek like a Cretan and died fighting for Greek freedom in the Battle of Crete.
Today, as it has always been, the BSA is an extraordinary place where a love for Greece and a commitment to research and sharing knowledge bring together people from various disciplines, fostering new and exciting ideas about the past and present.
What would you say is your mission today? And can you tell us about some of the day-to-day activities?
rs: At the core of our mission is the support of researchers from both Greece and the UK. We focus on promoting and communicating our research, making it accessible through a variety of teaching and outreach activities – only some of which I can begin to mention here. The BSA is home to international scholars, at all stages of their careers, who are working passionately on a broad range of topics related to Greece, spanning from the Palaeolithic to the present. Throughout the year, they immerse themselves in the library – one of the finest in the world for Hellenic Studies – and exchange ideas informally in the Finlay Common Room. In our Archive, which is filled with fieldwork reports, travelers’ diaries, and photographic negatives, new connections are constantly being made as digitization enables greater access to our vast collection. These resources, combined with the work
of our Research Fellows, help us stay on the cutting edge of research in and about Greece.
With 140 years of experience, we are driven to advance research into Greece, and the BSA highlights this through a year-round schedule of events. Our program draws audiences to the BSA Upper House for lectures by our Fellows, Greek university collaborators and visiting researchers.
Each summer, the hostel is full of students taking short courses that range from Linear B and Epigraphy to Communicating Archaeology. These courses offer hands-on training and education to a diverse group, from undergraduates to senior professors, allowing them to benefit from the world-class facilities, knowledge and expertise we offer.
The Fitch Laboratory, always a hive of activity, undertakes the more scientific aspects of our work, analyzing pottery under microscopes, using world-standard analytical equipment,and studying bone fragments, seeds and pigments.
The Fitch Laboratory is a world-leading center for archaeological science –the first to be established outside a university setting –can you explain its role and primary functions?
ek: The Marc and Ismene Fitch Laboratory for Archaeological Science, with 50 years of technique and method development behind us, now focuses on answering a range of fascinating questions. We explore everything from creative choices made by ancient craftspeople to the mobility of humans, and the vast exchange networks that existed in the distant and recent past. Over time, the Fitch has expanded its scope to support other areas of archaeological science, such as human osteology, zooarchaeology, archaeobotany, soil micromorphology, pigment analysis, archaeometallurgy and geophysical prospection.
Our main aim is to foster collaboration and facilitate high-quality archaeological research using a variety of scientific methods while also providing top-tier services to external institutions and individual researchers. As Rebecca mentioned, people are at the heart of everything we do, and education, training and outreach are key components of our mission. Each year, the Fitch team contributes to and runs several science-based courses. We supervise and mentor postgraduate researchers and have recently participated in a large Marie Skłodowska-Curie Action International Training Network. We also welcome volunteers and interns through programs like Erasmus+ and the Turing Internship Network. Recently, we’ve expanded our outreach program for children and young adults, participating in events like the Athens Science Festival.
THE BSA IS HOME TO INTERNATIONAL SCHOLARS, AT ALL STAGES OF THEIR CAREERS, WHO ARE WORKING PASSIONATELY ON A BROAD RANGE OF TOPICS RELATED TO GREECE.
You mentioned Knossos earlier.
The BSA has a long-standing connection to that famous site, including a satellite research center. Could you tell us more?
rs: Yes, the Knossos Research Center was originally Sir Arthur Evans’ dig house when he was excavating Knossos, the Bronze Age Minoan center of Crete. Evans later passed it on to the BSA, and today it houses the Stratigraphical Museum, a small library and a hostel.
appointed BSA Director in September of 2022.
Professor Rebecca Sweetman, seconded from the University of St Andrews’ School of Classics, was
Recently, the BSA secured £2.6 million in funding to redevelop the Stratigraphical Museum as part of the Knossos 2025 project, thanks in large part to the Packard Humanities Institute. The development is progressing steadily, and once completed, the museum will be a state-of-the-art research center. Each summer, the center becomes a vibrant cultural hub, hosting a lively outreach program featuring music and art.
In Crete, the BSA also maintains strong ties with local ephorates and museums. Recently, we collaborated with the Regional Governance and the Municipality of Heraklion on an exhibition about the life and work of Pendlebury, displayed at the Vikelaia Library in Heraklion.
The BSA has been at the forefront of archaeological research at some of Greece’s most iconic sites but, as you’ve mentioned, its remit extends beyond archaeology to encompass all aspects of Hellenic studies, both ancient and modern. What are some of the most significant research projects currently being undertaken by the BSA and its members?
rs: Our ongoing fieldwork projects are on the cutting edge of archaeological research, employing pioneering methods and yielding results that greatly enhance our understanding of Greece’s history, from prehistoric times to the present.
A prime example is a series of archaeological survey projects on the Aegean islands of Chios and Samos. These projects are using the latest technology to map ancient landscapes and analyze environmental changes over millennia, giving us a comprehensive view of how human activity evolved on these islands and what its impact was on the environment.
Another notable initiative is the 1821 Project, sponsored by the Stavros Niarchos Foundation and facilitated by our Chair of Council, Professor Sir Roderick Beaton, a distinguished writer and academic. Led by Dr
Michalis Sotiropoulos, the 1821 Fellow in Modern Greek Studies, the project focuses on the letters and diaries of historian George Finlay (1799-1875) and British Admiral Frank Abney Hastings (1794-1828), housed in the BSA Archive. These documents, now digitized and freely accessible online, offer fresh insights into the role of British Philhellenes during the Greek War of Independence.
Each year, we also host an artist-in-residence from the University of the Arts, London. This year, Tina Rowe, who works with analog photography to explore how human presence is recorded and lost in the landscape, spent time in the BSA Archive examining photographs taken by Mercy Money-Coutts. The residency offers alternative perspectives on our work and leads to valuable discussions.
A project that unites all BSA departments is our effort to digitize our vast research collections, supported by a recent RICHeS grant. This project is essential for making these resources accessible to the widest possible audience. Thanks to this initiative, our digital humanities program is thriving, strengthened by collaborations with Greek colleagues and other British International Research Institutes.
What are some notable scientific contributions and discoveries made by the Fitch Laboratory in recent years?
ek: The Fitch Laboratory has made significant contributions by pioneering new research methods in Greek archaeology, influencing both local and international archaeological practices. Over the past 50 years, the laboratory has broken down academic and geopolitical barriers, fostering collaborations across fields such as biology, chemistry, geology and anthropology.
This interdisciplinary approach has led to major advancements in understanding the ancient world. For instance, we’ve mapped ancient trade networks through pottery analysis and discovered links between ancient Greece and regions as far away as England and Spain. Did you know that 1,500 years ago, people living at the site of Tintagel, Cornwall – the legendary castle of King Arthur –were importing wine from Byzantium? These long-distance trade routes reveal much about the complex connections and networks that existed in the past.
We’re also proud of our long-standing collaborations across modern geopolitical borders. For example, we work closely with the University of Ankara in Turkey, which enables us to undertake a unified approach to the study of the prehistoric Aegean and Anatolia, before modern state borders.
THESE PROJECTS ARE USING THE LATEST TECHNOLOGY TO MAP ANCIENT LANDSCAPES AND ANALYZE
CHANGES OVER MILLENNIA.
Through these efforts, the Fitch Laboratory has reshaped our understanding of the movement of people, materials, and ideas throughout history. This open, cross-disciplinary approach allows us to uncover aspects of the past that would have remained hidden without such cooperation.
How does the BSA collaborate with the Greek Ministry of Culture, local authorities, academic institutions, and other international bodies in its research efforts?
rs: Collaboration is at the heart of everything we do at the BSA, and
Dr. Evangelia Kiriatzi, graduate of the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, has been the director of the Marc and Ismene Fitch Laboratory since 2001.
The International Association for the Reunification of the
our work with the Greek Ministry of Culture, local authorities, and academic institutions is no exception. These partnerships are crucial to our research endeavors.
Each year, the BSA is granted six fieldwork permits, allowing us to engage in a range of archaeological projects across Greece, from surveying landscapes to excavating ancient sites. Three of these permits are “collaborative permits,” meaning the BSA works closely with the Ministry of Culture. Current collaborative projects include Toumba Serron with the Ephorate of Serres, and Palaikastro in Crete with the Ephorate of Lasithi and the Ephorate
of Underwater Antiquities. We’re also excited to restart work on the Keros project in partnership with the Ephorate of the Cyclades.
Recently, we assisted in the restoration efforts at Osios Loukas following the devastating 2023 wildfires, providing materials from our archive, including early 20th-century drawings by Weir Schultz and Barnsley.
The BSA also collaborates academically with institutions such as the National Research Foundation, the Academy of Athens, and the Modern Greek Studies programs at the Universities of Athens and Sheffield. We maintain strong relationships with
including the
other foreign schools as well, including the American, Austrian, Polish, and French schools.
ek: Most of the 30-40 projects running at the Fitch Laboratory at any given time are collaborative, relying on the strong relationships we’ve built. with colleagues in Greece, the UK, and beyond. One example is our long-standing collaboration with the Department of History and Archaeology at Aristotle University, Thessaloniki. It was one of the first Greek academic institutions to integrate archaeological science into its research and training – I’m actually an early product of that program!
Parthenon Sculptures,
British Committee, has worked tirelessly in support of the Greek authorities, applying pressure on the UK Parliament and the trustees of the British Museum.
Currently, we’re working together on finds from the excavations at prehistoric Toumba, Thessaloniki. We’re also involved in the TEFRA project, funded by ΕΛΙΔΕΚ, which focuses on the practice of cremation in Greek prehistory and antiquity.
The BSA has been running a successful Summer School for UK-based undergraduate students for over 50 years. Can you tell us more about other training programs and exchange opportunities the BSA offers?
rs: Our Summer School for undergraduates has been running for just over 50 years. It’s a fantastic opportunity for students to experience the archaeology of Greece firsthand, bringing the sites they’ve studied in textbooks to life.
In addition to the Summer School, we offer a wide variety of training courses. This year, we introduced a new course where students and professionals learned about different methods of communicating archaeology. We’ve also been running a regular, free course for UK school teachers, and our Assistant Director has recently introduced a similar course for Greek school teachers.
Rebecca, you are the third woman to serve as Director of the BSA.
As a female leader in academia, could you share your insights on the role and impact of women in leadership positions within the fields of archaeological and historical research?
rs: We’ve made it a priority to highlight the role of women in the BSA’s early history as part of our commitment to improving equality and diversity. It’s important to acknowledge that many of the disciplines we work in at the BSA were not traditionally inclusive.
The Fitch Laboratory boasts world-class reference collections of animal bones (top); seeds (right); and pigments, rocks and pottery
(left).
However, we’re actively working to change that. It’s encouraging to see how many women hold leadership positions here and how many female academics come through our doors. But it’s not just about gender equality – we’re striving to open our doors to a more diverse audience and make archaeology accessible to all.
We do this through the various courses we offer, ensuring they’re accessible to diverse communities and supporting participants with funding. One example is our collaboration with NGOs like The Home Project, where we host bi-monthly sessions on Greek archaeology and history for underrepresented groups. Mentoring and sharing knowledge are key to ensuring inclusivity, and we are committed to this mission at the BSA.
“I’VE FACED CHALLENGES THROUGHOUT MY CAREER, BUT I’VE ALSO SEEN SIGNIFICANT PROGRESS FOR FEMALE SCHOLARS ... WE’RE ESPECIALLY PROUD THAT THE MAJORITY OF THE FITCH LABORATORY TEAM IS MADE UP OF WOMEN.”
Evangelia, what has been your experience as a woman at the forefront of archaeological science? What advice would you offer to young female students and researchers pursuing a career in the sciences?
ek: Like many women, I’ve faced challenges throughout my career, but I’ve also seen significant progress for female scholars. As Rebecca mentioned, we’re especially proud that the majority of the Fitch Laboratory team is made up of women. However, while women tend to be the majority at the undergraduate level, this changes at the postgraduate stage, and women are still underrepresented in senior academic and leadership roles. Socio-economic barriers often impact women more, and
The Penrose Room of the BSA Library is a resource for exploring all aspects of Greek culture.
balancing family life with a professional career remains a significant challenge. True equality requires both equal access to education and strong family-support systems and inclusive policies for staff appointments.
To young female students and early-career scholars, I’d say that the road isn’t always easy, especially given the scarcity of permanent academic positions, particularly in the humanities and social sciences. But if you’re passionate about what you do, keep going. You will succeed.
Finally, what is your vision for the future of the BSA? What new initiatives or directions do you hope to pursue in the coming years?
rs : The future of the BSA lies
in people, collaboration and inclusivity. We want to ensure that more people benefit from the resources we offer. We’re achieving this through wide-ranging events and educational programs, both in-person and online.
Following the success of the Knossos 2025 project, we’re preparing to launch a new fundraising campaign focused on “People and Place.” At the heart of this campaign will be the renovation of the Fitch Laboratory and the modernization of our facilities.
ek: As we celebrate the Fitch Laboratory’s 50th anniversary, our vision is to remain at the forefront of research and training, particularly in archaeological ceramics. We’re committed to developing innovative projects that deepen our understanding of Greece’s connections with the wider world. Additionally, we
aim to bridge the past, present and future in our research. A key priority is to further integrate experimental archaeology and the study of contemporary craftspeople, advancing our understanding of ancient craft practices. This will also enhance our training programs and outreach activities, helping us connect with a broader community.
rs: With our new five-year strategy in place, one of our primary goals is to expand our digital humanities provision by making our collections widely accessible. We want to be ready for the rise of AI, and to use digital storytelling to connect people and places across the Mediterranean. People are the future of the BSA; they’re our legacy. By investing in them, we can ensure that the BSA continues to thrive for at least another 140 years! •
The Upper House Garden, a scenic venue for BSA receptions and other events.
An Oasis in the Ancient City
KERAMEIKOS
BY JOHN LEONARD
PHOTOS: PERIKLES MERAKOS
The Kerameikos archaeological site offers respite from the usual hustle and bustle of modern Athens, transporting the visitor back in time to a delightful, history-rich locality at the northwestern gates of walled ancient Athens.
A view of the stone embankments of the Eridanos River, which was further enclosed with a marble arch in Roman times (6th century AD).
On the Street of the Tombs, an imposing bull marks the burial plot of
BC).
Dionysios of Kollytos (345-338
Right: Dexileos, an Athenian knight, tramples a Corinthian enemy before dying in battle (394/3 BC).
Below: The shady Eridanos riverbed and, to its left, the Tritopatreion precinct.
Above: A marble base beside the Dipylon Gate, possibly for an equestrian statue of Emperor Hadrian.
Left: Lion (6th c. BC) discovered near the Sacred Gate.
AARE YOU LOOKING to avoid the crowds? Do you enjoy Greek history and exploring less populated spots in this age-old city of Athens? Perhaps you’d like a stroll through a peaceful, green archaeological park bisected by a small, ancient, tree-shaded riverbed still burbling with water. If so, put on your walking shoes and head for the Kerameikos – an archaeological site located only a short distance down Ermou Street from Monastiraki and the Thiseio metro station.
Into the countryside…
Today, the Kerameikos is often thought of as simply the cemetery of ancient Athens, thanks to the 5th- and 4th-century BC sculpted grave stones from the site now displayed in the National Archaeological Museum, or the iconic Geometric-era painted vase/ grave marker known as the Dipylon Amphora (about 750 BC) – as tall as a person! – that depicts a funerary procession of hair-tearing women and men mourning a deceased woman of wealth lying on a bier. However, it was so much more than that. Its general tranquility nowadays belies the fact that the Kerameikos district was once a hive of activity where, on an ordinary day, a visitor might have heard not only the tinkling tune of the Eridanos River, but also the sounds of horses’ hooves and creaking cartwheels on stony roads,
gravediggers scraping their shovels on stone, professional mourners wailing, potters singing to themselves as they worked over their wheels, city guards conversing, or a brothel-keeper calling out to passers-by as they entered or exited the gates. This was a place of transition, between the inner and outer worlds of the walled Classical and Hellenistic city of Athens, where, like today, one got the sense of leaving urban life behind and moving into a different, more countrified atmosphere.
Encompassing the northwest area of ancient Athens, Kerameis, the deme or municipality from which the Kerameikos (“Potters’ Quarter”) derived its name, once stretched from the Athenian Agora all the way to the olive groves of Plato’s Academy – a distance of about 1.5 km. Attracted by the rich clay of the Eridanos’ moist banks, craftsmen were already setting up pottery workshops in the Kerameikos by at least the 8th century BC, but people wishing to bury their dead had exploited the marshy area as early as the Bronze Age. After about 1200 BC, more frequent, organized use of the cemetery was marked by the appearance of grave monuments that included impressive ceramic vessels and carved “kouros” statues, while during the Archaic era (6th century BC) distinctive mounds containing shaft graves for cremation burials and channels on their upper surfaces for grave goods were erected for Athenian noble families and dignitaries.
An intriguing historical vista
A walk through the Kerameikos archaeological site best begins with an approach from Ermou Street. Looking down, you’ll have a panoramic view of the entire park, with the Sacred Gate below on the left and the Dipylon Gate on the right. Between them lies the internally colonnaded Pompeion building, while in the distance the large Church of Aghia Triada dominates the central background, with the Street of the Tombs and the Sacred Way
on its left side and the Dromos, the main street from the Dipylon Gate, passing by on its right. This is a clearly defined archaeological site, cut deeply into the earth and bordered by tall, stone-reinforced embankments, paved streets, and contemporary offices or residential structures that have sprouted up around it since Greek and German archaeologists began excavating (in 1870 and 1913, respectively) to create this “window” into the past.
Once an open area with natural vegetation, a narrow riverbed, low burial mounds and elegant grave markers, the Kerameikos was divided in 478 BC, after the Persian Wars, by the building of the Themistoclean Wall and other city defenses. The district now took on a military character with strong gates, an outer wall (Proteichisma) and a protective moat. Outside, the cemetery grew larger and more ornate, until ostentatious grave monuments were banned in the late 4th century BC. Inside the gates, houses, workshops and public buildings were constructed. The Kerameikos became a bustling crossroads where one might rub shoulders with Athenians and foreigners from every walk of life: household slaves, foot soldiers, mounted knights, city officials, merchants hawking their wares, and the religious faithful heading out to worship at extra-mural shrines.
Exploring the ruins
On entering the archaeological site, visitors today can choose to go directly into the excellent albeit small Kerameikos Museum to the left or save that pleasure for later and head down into the excavated area. A fine view over the ruins can be had from the little hill at the start of the descent, where you’re also provided a detailed site plan for getting your bearings. Setting off downhill and following a counterclockwise route around the excavation, one initially encounters a high stretch of preserved city wall. From its lowest original Themistoclean courses, this
Crossroads
The inner face of the defensive Proteichisma (Outer Wall), showing two phases of construction (post-420 BC; late 4th century BC).
wall rises in multiple phases to reflect the long tumultuous history of Athens. Demolished by the Spartan Lysander in 404 BC at the end of the Peloponnesian War, it was later repaired by Konon (394/3 BC) and further augmented and repaired up to the reign of Justinian (6th century AD).
Today, you can step through a narrow breach in the city wall and view just inside the remains of House Z, whose proximity to the fortifications meant that it, too, endured various assaults. Once a large private residence built shortly before 430 BC and featuring fifteen rooms arranged around two distinct courtyards – one for men, the other for women – the house was destroyed in about 425 BC and soon rebuilt, before being damaged again along with the adjacent city wall in 404 BC. Afterwards, it remained abandoned
HUNDREDS OF CUPS AND OTHER TABLEWARE, KNUCKLE BONES, AN IVORY FLUTE AND PERSONAL OBJECTS SUGGEST THAT HOUSE Z HAD BECOME AN ESTABLISHMENT THAT OFFERED DRINKING, DINING AND FEMALE COMPANIONSHIP.
until about 350 BC, when it was once again rebuilt. Now, however, House Z no longer resembled a traditional family home, instead containing a single courtyard and many small rooms. A new well, three cisterns and dozens of loom weights indicate textile production, but the additional discovery of hundreds of cups and other tableware, knuckle bones, an ivory flute, and personal objects – including bronze figurines and medallions depicting Aphrodite, goddess of erotic love – suggest that House Z had become an establishment that offered drinking, dining, gambling, musical performances and female companionship. Each woman had her own room in which she apparently passed her time weaving when not occupied with entertaining. In Roman times, bronze and pottery workshops were installed among the structure’s ruins.
The pilgrims gathering
Stepping back through the city wall, you turn right to cross the Sacred Way and the Eridanos riverbed. This is the area of the Sacred Gate, where, in early summer, ancient Athenians participating in the annual Skira festival assembled before making a procession to Skiron in the Attic countryside. In the autumn, at the start of the Greater Eleusinian Mysteries, a larger procession would also leave from here for the sanctuary of Demeter at Eleusis.
Beyond the Eridanos, the large Pompeion with its internal colonnaded courtyard served as a storage place for the ceremonial trireme and sacred objects used in the Panathenaic procession during the Panathenaic Festival. Equipped with four pebble-floored rooms containing 66 dining couches, it also functioned as a dining hall for the Athenian archons and their official guests. Later, it was overbuilt by workshops and a storehouse, possibly a granary. The building’s well-worn threshold attests to the many wagon wheels and thousands of Athenian feet that passed over it through the centuries.
The adjacent Dipylon Gate similarly enjoyed a periodic religious function, as every four years Athenian revelers met here to begin the Panathenaic procession from the Kerameikos to the Acropolis. The gate’s deep external courtyard, fortified with a second, outer gateway in Hellenistic times, not only provided greater security, but also a place for the public to gather in peace time. During the Panathenaic Festival, roasted meat from sacrifices was distributed to the people, who – based on excavated piles of animal bones – appear to have used the Dipylon courtyard as a feasting area. A fountain house stood just inside the gate, where Athenian women and servants could refill their water jars.
Spartans in Athens
Moving along the Dromos and away from the Dipylon Gate, you’ll
AHEAD STAND TWO DISTINCTIVE STELES; THESE MARK THE GRAVES OF TWO ENVOYS FROM CORFU WHO DIED WHILE VISITING ATHENS IN 433 BC DURING THE TURBULENT LEAD-UP TO THE PELOPONNESIAN WAR.
be approaching the Demosion Sema, the Athenian state cemetery. Great tombs erected along this road marked the final resting places of important local figures and allies buried at state expense. Although Perikles’ tomb still awaits discovery somewhere beyond the excavation area, one of the most intriguing monuments visible today is the grave of Spartan officers who perished while giving assistance to the Athenian oligarchs in 403 BC during an unsuccessful fight in Piraeus against pro-democracy forces. The 11-meter-long enclosure held thirteen battle-scarred skeletons and was capped with a right-to-left inscription identifying them as “Lakedaimonioi.” The first two letters are still visible.
The cemetery
Returning westward toward the museum, you’ll traverse a grassy, parklike area and re-cross the Eridanos at a place that was once the site of an ancient bridge. This is one of the most charming spots in the Kerameikos today, with shady, broad-leafed trees overhead, and the age-old river passing beneath one’s feet. In the spring, the water teems with tadpoles and tiny frogs. On the near bank is a burial mound that the 2nd century AD traveler Pausanias also saw: “As you go to Eleusis from Athens along…the Sacred Way you see the tomb of Anthemocritus [about 431 BC]. The Megarians committed against him a most wicked deed, for when he had come as a herald to forbid them to encroach upon the land in future they put him to death.”
Ahead stand two distinctive steles at the foot of the little hill from which you started your tour. These mark the graves of two envoys from Corfu who died while visiting Athens on a diplomatic mission in 433 BC during the turbulent lead-up to the Peloponnesian War. The Sacred Way forks here, with the main route continuing toward Eleusis, and the Street of the Tombs opening to the left. The fork itself is occupied by the sacred precinct of the Tritopatreion, a
small walled enclosure now shaded with olive trees that may have been associated with ancestor worship.
Lining the Street of the Tombs is a diverse array of impressive funerary monuments, including sculpted steles, over-sized loutrophoros vases and marble statues, some framed within small temple-like pavilions (naiskoi). Inscriptions have revealed the identities and origins of many of the deceased, mostly dating from the 4th century BC. On the right is the family plot of Koroibos of Melite;
on the left are tombs belonging to Lysimachides, Dionysios of Kollytos, the brothers Agathon and Sosikrates from Herakleia on the Black Sea, and the family of Lysanias of Thorikos. Particularly striking is the pawing bull overlooking the Dionysios of Kollytos precinct (a reproduction), and the carved relief commemorating the horseman Dexileos, a relative of Lysanias, who died in battle against the Corinthians in 394/3 BC. Beside the path that will take you back up to the museum, another naiskos contains
the sculpted images of two sisters, Demetria and Pamphile.
The museum
The Kerameikos experience isn’t complete without a visit to the site’s museum. Highlights include a fine Archaic-era kouros, original grave markers (including the massive, rippling-muscled 4th-century BC Bull of Dionysios of Kollytos), a collection of ceramic vessels and other funerary gifts, and household objects and personal items belonging to the residents of House Z.•
Masterpieces of Archaic Greek sculpture: Flanked by two sphinxes, the central Kouros figure (about 590 BC), once a grave marker for an elite burial, was found in 2002, buried beneath the Sacred Way near the Sacred Gate.
BLUEPRINTS OF CHANGE
The Interwar Gems of Athens
We join archaeologist and MONUMENTA coordinator Eirini Gratsia on an inspiring journey through Athens, as she reveals the fascinating stories behind the city’s iconic interwar buildings.
BY XENIA GEORGIADOU
Left: Eirini Gratsia graces one of the city’s interwar doorways.
Right: The impressive entrance to the Korkodeilou Apartment Building on Skaramanga Street.
PHOTOS: PERIKLES MERAKOS
Architecture
Far left: The ornate facade of the building at the intersection of Gkylfordou and Patission streets. Center: A balcony above Chevden Street. Right: Exquisite Florentine fireplace tilework in the Korkodeilou Apartment Building.
The Korkodeilou Apartment Building, an Eclectic gem.
TThe Interwar period in Athens
In 1921, the architect Le Corbusier began publishing a series of essays expressing his vision for modern architecture. “A house is a machine for living,” he declared. Western society, inspired by avant-garde artistic movements, had moved away from the single-family homes and ornate decorative elements of earlier centuries towards residential buildings designed for functionality, energy efficiency and enhanced comfort for their occupants. By expanding vertically, these buildings also optimized the use of space in densely populated urban centers. As the new model for housing, the apartment building became a defining symbol of this era. It represented the integration of advanced technologies, innovative construction methods and cutting-edge materials and heralded a transformation in architectural design and urban living. But how did Interwar architecture in Athens differ from that of cities such as Paris or Milan?
“While there aren’t significant differences, interwar architecture in Greece, unlike in the rest of the Western world, has a unique starting point,” explains Eirini Gratsia, archaeologist and coordinator of MONUMENTA, a nonprofit organization that’s been documenting the architectural heritage of the 19th and 20th centuries in Athens,
THE TRENDS DOMINATING EUROPE EVENTUALLY ARRIVED HERE, THOUGH WITH SOME DELAY. ARCHITECTS ... EMBRACED THE PRINCIPLES OF ECLECTICISM AND THE MODERN MOVEMENT.
Architecture
Piraeus and other cities since 2006.
In Greece, the interwar period began in 1923, following the end of the Second Greco-Turkish War. It was a time of profound social change and political instability marked by an influx of refugees and the gradual adoption of new ideas and lifestyles.
“The trends dominating Europe eventually arrived here, though with some delay. Architects trained abroad and at the National Technical University of Athens (NTUA) embraced the principles of Eclecticism and the Modern Movement,” says Gratsia. “We see a shift away from Neoclassicism and Academicism towards Eclecticism, a style blending elements from various movements, which offered a fresh approach to housing during the 1920s. By the 1930s, this gave way to the principles of the Modern Movement.”
The stroll
“Here we have a stunning example of Eclectic architecture,” Gratsia tells me, as we stand outside the Korkodeilou Apartment Building at 4 Skaramanga Street, near the National Archaeological Museum, admiring the marble carvings on an arch that frames the heavy door.
The building was designed in 1924 by the architect Konstantinos Kitsikis for the shipowner Dimitris Korkodeilos and his family. It has since been declared a listed monument. “This building showcases the cutting edge of construction technology at the time – concrete was used in its construction, allowing for larger openings and greater heights,” Gratsia explains as we tour a high-ceilinged first-floor apartment.
We pause to admire the fireplace, decorated with ceramic tiles from Florence. “These were custom-ordered specifically for the fireplace,” Ismini Kalabaliki, owner of the apartment, tells me. Ismini and her family will move in a few months from now, after renovations by Anaktae, a design studio led by Vivian Philippa and Diana Karvounis, who specialize in restoring or reimagining heritage spaces.
Left: The Papaleonardou Apartment Building, home to Maria Callas from 1938 to 1945.
Why did Kalabaliki choose to live in this busy central neighborhood, especially with young children? “We have to be brave and not abandon the area to its fate. I didn’t want to spend money on a newly built place that looks like every other apartment. This building has so much history and character.”
Kalabaliki’s apartment was once the home of Maria Moscholiou, an actress with the National Theatre and the longtime High Priestess of the Olympic Flame Lighting Ceremony. “One of the original owners of the building was the Swiss Club Athens,” adds the building manager, joining in on the conversation. “The Foyer Suisse operated here for many years as a school for Swiss children living in Athens,” she says. The building also frequently hosted distinguished visitors, including politicians such as Konstantinos Karamanlis and Konstantinos Tsatsos, as well as literary figures such as Odysseas Elytis.
Next door stands another impressive building, also designed by Konstantinos Kitsikis, a professor at the National Technical University of Athens. Known as the Papaleonardou Apartment Building (and located at 61 28is Oktovriou Street and Skaramanga), this five-story masterpiece of eclectic architecture was once home to Maria Callas, who lived there with her mother and sister from 1938 to 1945. Following its restoration, it will house the Maria Callas Academy of Lyric Arts.
“The two apartment buildings share many similarities – the richness of their decorative elements is striking in both cases,” says Gratsia. “However, the Papaleonardou Apartment Building better reflects the evolving needs of the urban bourgeoisie in the modern era. It features a basement parking area and an elevator, conveniences that were becoming essential.”
On the hunt
At number 59 28is Oktovriou Street, we spot what might be the most beautiful doorway in Athens. The wrought iron Art Deco entrance, with its signature motif of a frozen fountain, belongs to a six-story apartment building designed in 1934 by architect Emmanuel Kriezis, according to the principles of the Modern Movement.
“Homes built in the mid-1930s resemble boxes, with their design primarily focusing on lighting and functionality,” explains Gratsia. “The main decorative features are bay windows, which gave owners extra interior space, and plaster molding.”
Walking toward Victoria Square, we stop to admire number 65 28is Oktovriou Street, the four-story Isaia Mansion. Known to many Athenians as the headquarters of the Stavrakos Film and Television School and as a venue for exhibitions, this 1923 building was
designed by civil engineer Panagiotis Zizilas to function as an income-generating building.
As Gratsia explains, the apartments were initially rented out to members of the Greek diaspora from Egypt. “There’s a shift in mindset – we’re moving away from private homes and, by the 1920s, multi-story buildings are being constructed specifically for rental purposes.”
Across the road on Ioulianou Street stands a five-story eclectic building influenced by Art Nouveau; it’s the work of the renowned architect Vasileios Tsagris. A key figure in transitional eclecticism, Tsagris blended traditional styles with the Modern Movement. His buildings are distinguished by vertical bands that span the full height of his buildings, a defining feature of his architectural language.
THERE’S A SHIFT IN MINDSET – WE’RE MOVING AWAY FROM PRIVATE HOMES AND, BY THE 1920S, MULTI-STORY BUILDINGS ARE BEING CONSTRUCTED SPECIFICALLY FOR RENTAL PURPOSES.
Mapping the Modern Movement
A little further down, at 54 28is Oktovriou Street, stands the six-story Alkimos Gratsos Apartment Building, designed by Nikolaos Nikolaidis and built in 1934. This structure is an early and particularly noteworthy example of the Modern Movement. For another edifice by the same architect, we head to 1A Egyptou Street, to a building distinguished by a large clock on one of its facades. Known as the Savvidis Apartment Building, this six-story structure, with its striking curved balconies, is a quintessential representation of the Modern Movement.
Turning onto Chevden Street, we encounter the G. Patsakof Apartment Building, another classic example of the Modern Movement, built in 1935
The Isaia Mansion at the corner of 28is Oktovriou and Ioulianou streets.
This building, constructed in 1923 according to plans by Panagiotis Zizilas, was first home to renters from the Greek community of Egypt.
Architecture
by civil engineer Nikolaos Kotzamani.
Further along, at 30 Chevden Street, stands the Oikonomidis Apartment Building, designed in 1936 by renowned architect Dimitris Pikionis. Pikionis masterfully combined elements of the Modern Movement with those of traditional architectural styles in the design of its facades. As architect and NTUA professor emeritus Dimitris Filippidis observes, Pikionis succeeded in “bridging the gap between pre-industrial traditional architecture and advanced European design, creating a distinctly ‘national’ Greek architectural style.”
As I part ways with Eirini Gratsia, I ask her what motivated her to document the architectural legacy of Greece’s urban centers. “The desire to preserve the buildings and their stories,” she replies with a smile.•
• MONUMENTA offers guided tours of interwar buildings in the area, also available in English. For more information, contact info@monumenta.org or visit monumenta.org.
Left: Detailed marblework on the Isaia Mansion. Below: The Savvidis Apartment Building, on Egyptou Street.
Take in a guided tour of Athens’ hidden commercial arcades, a unique journey through time, nostalgia and local culture away from the usual tourist trails.
EXPLORING ATTICA’S OLDEST OLIVE GROVE
In Megara, where Byzantine churches are nestled among the ancient olive groves, Attica’s natural and cultural history coexist in perfect harmony.
GASTRONOMIC TOURS: THE DELICIOUS NEW TREND FOR VISITORS TO ATHENS
We followed two of the most popular food tours and spent a few hours walking and eating in the center of Athens.
EXPLORING THE ROMAN AGORA AT ATHENS: A VISITOR’S GUIDE
Nestled in the historic heart of Athens, the Roman Agora is an often-overlooked gem, where ancient culture and architecture meet in a lively urban setting.
Οrder back issues now at: subscription.kathimerini.gr/greece-is
