BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
ZEGNA
KITON
LORO PIANA
TOM FORD
BERLUTI
BRIONI
JACOB COHEN
SANTONI
CANALI
CORNELIANI
HERNO MANDELLI
MOORER
ORLEBAR BROWN
PAUL AND SHARK
ISAIA
BOSS
VILEBREQUIN
POLO RALPH LAUREN
PT 01
MOOSE KNUCKLES
LARDINI
INCOTEX
BARBA NAPOLI
ELEVENTY
SERAPHIN
COLOMBO CASHMERE
PREMIATA
LUIGI BORELLI
CESARE ATTOLINI
FEDELI
BY NENA DIMITRIOU
THESSALONIKI’S LONG-AWAITED metro is finally here – a dream realized after three decades. Whether you’ve already experienced a ride in the gleaming new subway cars or are merely leafing through this issue, there’s no denying the city’s transformation. Thirteen state-of-the-art stations are dotted along 9.6 kilometers of track, but they’re not just transit hubs. Most of them are museum-like spaces showcasing Thessaloniki’s remarkable archaeological heritage.
The metro’s construction unearthed over 5,000 tombs – some adorned with golden wreaths – and monumental Byzantine complexes with mosaics and marble or plaster decorations. These discoveries will soon be displayed in a landmark museum near Sintrivani Station. This 6,370-sq.m. cultural resource, situated at the metro’s crossover point, will tell the city’s story through its newly-discovered artifacts, including so many undisturbed treasures found at Venizelou Station that the site acquired the nickname
of “the Byzantine Pompeii.” Among the highlights is the Decumanus Maximus, the ancient Roman road that ran from present-day Venizelou and Aghia Sofia stations.
Thessaloniki’s forward momentum doesn’t stop with its subway. The city is evolving rapidly, with a new international airport, a revitalized Modiano Market – now a culinary hotspot – and HUB 26, its first large-scale bioclimatic business park. By January, a fleet of eco-friendly buses will boost public transit, complementing other green initiatives.
The road ahead is just as full of change. The city is about to break ground on the new Holocaust Museum of Greece even as it undertakes the transformation of the old FIX brewery into a modern multi-use complex; these projects highlight Thessaloniki’s balance of innovation and preservation. Urban renewal efforts such as the redesign of Aristotelous Square, the expansion of the seafront promenade, and a 15,000-sq.m. park in Triandria promise a vibrant future.
Thessaloniki is no longer waiting for change; it’s living it. Every new project affirms its role as a center of great cultural and historical significance that’s striding confidently towards a brighter tomorrow.•
by
www.internistore.com
GREECE IS — ISSUE#60 — THESSALONIKI 2024-2025 EDITION
12. HAPPENING NOW
Cultural highlights, exciting new arrivals, and more.
30 | INSIDE INFORMATION
Local tastemakers offer their recommendations.
36 | IN PICTURES
Thessaloniki’s magical moments captured on camera.
42 | NEXT CHAPTERS
Major infrastructure projects, a significant urban revamp, and vibrant cultural events reshaping Thessaloniki’s identity.
56 | THE METROCHRONICLES
Thirty years after the first plans were announced, a new subway system is changing how residents get around town and how they experience their city, too.
62 | STATION TO STATION
A unique historical tour following the route of the new metro line from west to east, exploring monuments and points of interest.
80 | A WALL THAT UNITES
The West Wall Collective has transformed a historic landmark into a vibrant symbol of collaboration.
90 | THE ARCHIVIST
The fascinating story of Yannis Megas’ collection, featuring tens of thousands of postcards, photos, and historical documents tracing Thessaloniki’s history.
98 | STARS ON STAGE
For 20 years, Principal Club Theater has been Thessaloniki’s main venue for international touring bands and Greek music artists.
104 | WILD WISDOM
In northern Greece, a new generation of herb growers and producers is utilizing the region’s abundant natural resources to create products that benefit both mind and body.
110 | WHERE CHEFS EAT
Eight of Thessaloniki’s most celebrated chefs share their favorite dining spots, where flavor, comfort and a warm welcome create unforgettable experiences.
118 | NEGOSKA TALES
The rise of a rare grape variety.
126 | A JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY
An exciting cycling tour through Central Macedonia, from the lakes of Skra, Doirani and Kerkini to the plains of Drama and the mountains of Halkidiki.
134 | POWER AND MYSTERY
Aigai’s newly restored Macedonian palace enriches Greece’s cultural heritage while raising new questions about Philip II of Macedon, one of ancient Greece’s most colorful yet least-understood kings.
EXECUTIVE EDITOR
PUBLISHED BY:
Nees Kathimerines Ekdoseis
Single Member S.A. Ethnarhou Makariou & 2 Dimitriou Falireos, Neo Faliro, 185 47
Piraeus Greece
Alexis Papahelas
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Giorgos Tsiros tsiros@kathimerini.gr
DEPUTY EDITOR
Nena Dimitriou nenadim@kathimerini.gr
EDITORIAL COORDINATOR
Niki Agrafioti
ADVERTISING MANAGER
Kelly Lorentzou klorentzou@kathimerini.gr
COMMERCIAL INQUIRIES
Tel. (+30) 210.480.8227
Fax (+30) 210.480.8228 sales@greece-is.com emporiko@kathimerini.gr
PUBLIC RELATIONS welcome@greece-is.com
GREECE IS - ATHENS is a biannual publication, distributed free of charge. It is illegal to reproduce any part of this publication without the written permission of the publisher.
ON THE COVER
The work “Girl with a Rooster” by Nikos Iosif recently traveled to Portugal for Contextile, the Contemporary Textile Art Biennial.
BY THE GREECE-IS TEAM
Giorgos Sikeliotis, “Angel-Νational Liberator,” 1961-1970, acetone, 100 x 70 cm, Foteini TriantafylliTheriou Collection.
Tassos (Anastasios Alevizos), “In Memory of Che Guevara: the Archangel with the Machine-Gun A,” 1968.
THE EXHIBITION “SIKELIOTIS –TASSOS: A Friendship with Common Roots” traces the parallel journey of two prominent figures in modern Greek art. Co-organized by the Teloglion Foundation, the National GalleryAlexandros Soutsos Museum, and the Anthony E. Comninos Foundation, the exhibition features 160 works –engravings, paintings, and drawings –highlighting the common themes in the work of Giorgos Sikeliotis and Tassos Alevizos, beteer known simply as Tassos. It explores the values that informed their art, their working-class backgrounds, their studies at the Athens School of Fine Arts under Konstantinos Parthenis, and their solidarity with the common people. Unencumbered by foreign influences, both in style and subject matter, the two artists explored the concept of Greekness with genuine interest, contributing to the development of Greek modernism.
xenia georgiadou
→ Until 26/01/2025, Teloglion Foundation of Arts, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, 159A Aghiou Dimitriou, teloglion.gr
Warhol, “Alexander the Great,” 1981.
WHAT STORIES LIE behind a work of art? What personal traumas, sociopolitical conditions, or partnerships among artists have inspired its creation? The exhibition
“From Now On: Stories for a Next Tomorrow,” which includes works by 100 artists such as Arman, Joseph Beuys, Yannis Gaitis, George Zongolopoulos, Chryssa Romanou and Andy Warhol, demonstrates that art does not follow a linear narrative. Instead, it evolves in a variety of directions, resonating with the present, drawing on the past, and looking ahead to the future. xenia georgiadou
→ Until 05/01/2025, MOMus – Museum of Contemporary Art – Collections of the Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art and the State Museum of Contemporary Art, 154 Egnatia (within the Thessaloniki International Fairgrounds, HELEXPO), Thessaloniki, momus.gr
Discover the ultimate luxury address in Thessaloniki’s glittering promenade
APRONS, FUR-LINED VESTS (kontogounia), men’s cloaks (ntoulamades), embroidered vests (fermeles), and thick woolen overcoats (sigounia) served as the foundation for photographer Vangelis Kyris and artist Anatoli Georgiev’s collaborative work. The exhibition “Soul Garment” showcases Kyris’ portraits of traditional costumes (from the National Historical Museum and other major cultural institutions), enhanced with Anatoli Georgiev’s needlework. The photographs have been printed on canvas, allowing Georgiev to embroider them with additional visual elements in a creative reinterpretation of Greek tradition. On the initiative of the Papageorgiou Foundation, the exhibition in Thessaloniki will display new works featuring distinctive costumes from Macedonia and Thrace. Admission is free.
xenia georgiadou
→ Until 06/01/2025, MIET – Villa Kapantzi, 108 Vasilissis Olgas, miet.gr
“Notes for the Biography of Penelope Delta,” 2006, monotypes on paper, 110×83 cm.
OVER 500 WORKS – INCLUDING paintings, prints, ecclesiastical art, and books –are featured in the major retrospective exhibition “Markos Kampanis: Works 1990–2020: A Multifaceted Artist.” After its presentation last winter at the National Library of Greece, the exhibition has now moved to the Teloglion Foundation of Arts. The works, divided into thematic sections, engage in dialogue with each other, revealing different aspects of the beautiful world that the artist created over the thirty years following his first visit to Mt Athos – a visit that marked a turning point in his wide-ranging artistic journey.panagiotis koustas
→ Until 16/02/2025, Teloglion Foundation of Arts, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, 159A Aghiou Dimitriou, markoskampanis.gr
Artworks on Silk
DURING HIS VISIT to the United Kingdom in July of 1961, Yuri Gagarin presented Queen Elizabeth with a silk scarf titled “Cosmos” and designed by Anna Andreeva as a commemorative gift. Several other creations by the Russian textile designer found their way into the hands of prominent figures in Western entertainment and politics, serving as tools of cultural diplomacy during the Cold War. However, these attempts were insufficient to increase her work’s visibility in Europe and America. Recognition occurred mostly after her death in 2008, when MoMA acquired part of her archive. The exhibition “Collective Threads: Anna Andreeva at the Red Rose Silk Factory” highlights the work of the remarkable Anna Andreeva and the Red Rose silk factory, where she served as chief designer from 1946 to 1984, as well as that of Soviet women’s art collectives.
xenia georgiadou
→ From 07/12/2024 to 27/04/2025, MOMus – Museum of Modern Art –Costakis Collection, 21 Kolokotroni, Stavroupoli, momus.gr
TALENTED CHOREOGRAPHER and director Christos Papadopoulos partners with Giannis Aggelakas, one of the most prominent representatives of the Greek rock scene, and the exceptional actress Olia Lazaridou to narrate Odysseus’ descent into Hades and his encounters with his former companions, his mother Anticlea, and the seer Tiresias. The work “Nekyia,” named after Book 11 of Homer’s Odyssey, is brought to the stage in an atmospheric performance that combines sound installation and dramatic reading to create the unique experience of a visit to the Underworld.
xenia georgiadou
→ From 14 to 16/02/2025, Thessaloniki Concert Hall, 25th Martiou & Paralia, tch.gr
Take a piece of culture home…
UNIQUE CREATIONS DESIGNED exclusively for the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation (PIOP): jewelry, decorative objects, accessories and many more gifts, inspired by the nine museums of the foundation and created by Greek designers, await you!
Limited edition plexiglass art object of the work “Untitled” by Yannis Gaitis
Bracelet created by Georgia Stoupa, Silversmithing Museum in Ioannina
Clay pomegranate created by Padalu
Silver cufflinks created by Anna Latousaki, Chios Mastic Museum
Silver ring created by Jove, Museum of Marble Crafts on Tinos
Silk scarf created by Epicloth, Open-Air Water Power Museum in Dimitsana
AT THE INTERSECTION of design, art and hospitality stands Hipsters Hotel, housed in a beautifully renovated neoclassical building originally designed by civil engineer Jacques Moshe (Thessaloniki, 1900–1960). With 17 uniquely designed rooms, the hotel’s striking architecture is complemented by iconic pieces by design legends such as Jean Prouvé, Verner Panton and Tom Dixon, alongside timeless Viennese classics by Gebrüder Thonet. Hipsters Hotel isn’t just a place to stay – it’s a cultural beacon. It hosts art exhibitions (the compelling photography of acclaimed Thessaloniki artist Stavros Kalafatis is on display) and video screenings, enriching the city’s artistic landscape. Its stylish café-bar has become a destination in its own right, as has the chic Traveler’s Shop. This new design hotel is certain to captivate discerning travelers, art enthusiasts and anyone with a passion for cutting-edge style.
→ 2 Papadopoulou, hipsters.gr
Fine wines for connoisseurs. Discover high quality wines full of aroma and taste at our stores and at Lidl prices.
4.,99€
3,19€
1,89€
9.,99€
DESIGN FLOWS THROUGH the veins of Nikos Rakkas, much as music is second nature to Georgia P. Together, they’ve created Volume R, a design studio, archive, store and gallery in the up-and-coming Aghioi Apostoloi neighborhood. This vibrant space is filled with an eclectic mix of vinyl records, collector’s editions, fashion, art, and design magazines, alongside decorative pieces from emerging brands and designers – all curated with a distinctive edge and strong creative vibes.
Volume R will also serve as an arts hub, hosting exhibitions by emerging street artists, illustrators, and graphic designers, as well as pop-up events, book launches, and live DJ sets. Its inaugural exhibition, ELWAverse by Parisian street artist Elwa, was hailed with critical acclaim and with enthusiasm from the public.
→ 24 Paparrigopoulou
THE CITY’S LATEST art shop is the brainchild of Christina Manolaki, who conceived the idea three years ago as a way to bring her personal touch to Artion Gallery, her family’s long-established business. This freshly launched concept art store showcases both Greek and international artists who celebrate the optimistic side of art, offering visitors an escape into a vibrant world of color, joy and creativity.
Among its standout pieces are the exclusive works of Canadian artist Laurie Skantzos, whose “Portals” series experiments with forms and neon hues, and Australian artist Jessica Swan, whose striking “Squiggs” are sure to captivate collectors and art lovers alike.
→ 96 Mitropoleos, startartworks.com
LOCATED NEAR Athonos Square, Super Ioulios is a new wine bar dedicated exclusively to Greek natural and low-intervention wines. Its thoughtfully curated menu features 66 selections from across the country, from Corfu to the Peloponnese, with around 20 available by the glass. To complement the wines, the bar offers a selection of cold dishes, including premium Greek cheeses and charcuterie sourced from local producers.
The long, narrow layout, simple decor and dramatic lighting give the venue the distinctive feel of a vintage train car, creating a warm and intimate setting.
john papadimitriou
→ 6 Mitropolitou Gennadiou, Tel. (+30) 2310.276.562
THIS VENUE, THE CITY’S latest casual hotspot, serves exceptional coffee and good food. It may be small but its large picture windows, ideal for peoplewatching, attracts both locals and Airbnb visitors exploring the neighborhood. The coffee game is strong here, featuring a balanced blend selection alongside singleorigin beans from Costa Rica. Open until 21:00, ESTET has also become the place to go for a pre-bar bite; try the grilled cheese, made with sourdough bread, Kozani kasseri, pickled onion, za’atar, and chef Vassili Hamam’s signature coffee sriracha. Another favorite is the airy egg salad sandwich on brioche. Vegan options and a dessert of the day round out the food options. With local products – from their dairy items to the wine they serve – ESTET is a love letter to sustainable, thoughtful sourcing! nena dimitriou
→ 78 Olympou
EXPERIENCE THE CHARM of a Parisian bistro on pedestrianized Iktinou Street. From the early hours of the morning, enjoy expertly brewed specialty coffee sourced from the local Valenio roastery; it’s the perfect prelude to a leisurely brunch. The menu is a celebration of modern cuisine rooted in traditional recipes and features an enticing variety of meat and fish dishes, as well as Cretan specialties. Set in the location once occupied by the historic Tiffany’s restaurant, the bistro, which boasts an elegant blend of classic charm and contemporary style, has an extensive wine list. The impressive selection of 60 wines by the glass showcases wineries from across Greece, as does their collection of over 400 bottles. The sounds of jazz and Greek music provide the perfect soundtrack as you enjoy a bottle of wine from Naxos, or discover other lesser-known Greek varieties, such as the unique Potamisi, and allow each sip to tell you a story of Greece’s rich winemaking heritage. john papadimitriou → 3 Iktinou, Tel. (+30) 23160.097.73
BY GEORGIA FEKOU AND JOHN PAPADIMITRIOU
ALEXIS NIKOU
Graphic Designer @alexisnikou
1. Explore Thessaloniki’s lovely galleries and art spaces, meticulously curated to breathe new life into the city's neighborhoods. The Eye Altering Gallery (2 Paikou) is on a quiet lane in the Fragomahalas area, and Pinakotheke (38 Karipi) is just a little further along pedestrianized Karipi Street.
2. Above Egnatia Street, you’ll find an authentic yet modern side of the city. Stroll past charming antique shops on Tositsa Street to reach ESTET (78 Olympou), a new gem from Dimitris Vlassiou and Vasilis Chamam. Enjoy a grilled cheese sandwich with a tasty coffee; if you’re lucky, you might meet Laika, Dimitris’ adorable dog.
3. Head to Beetroot Cafe (8 Syngrou) for live jazz performances. If you’re a jazz fan, this is the place for you!
4. There’s nothing like sharing tsipouro with friends at Bakiri Café (23 Chalkeon), run by the wonderful Mr. Makis. You’ll fall in love with mini burgers and spicy peppers while lounging in a director’s chair.
5. Tempera, a haven in the city center (44 Ermou), is a magical world full of art supplies, stationery, inks, and endless creative tools. I go with my daughters, and we always lose track of time!
1.
2.
5. Shopping Therapy
Marketing Specialist at Ktima Gerovassiliou @vasiliki_gerovassiliou
1. To truly experience Thessaloniki, you must explore it on foot. The Walking Tour Thessaloniki team offers walking tours of Ano Poli and the stretch running from the White Tower to the Port, revealing the art, history, and stories that make this city unique.
2. Every November, the city comes alive with the energy of the International Film Festival. No matter how many films you see, you always crave more – this event lights up all of downtown Thessaloniki.
3. My evenings often start with a relaxing gin and tonic and good music at Piece of Cake (19 Chrisostomou Smirnis) and end at Souel Wine Bar (16 Pavlou Mela) with a glass of wine and lively discussions.
4. A stuffed burger from Snack Grill Express (7 Malakopis) in Toumba. This place feels wonderfully retro and is cherished by its devoted patrons.
5. Oenovated (17 Sinopis) seamlessly blends street style with a passion for wine. This unique brand features trendy, wine-themed apparel and accessories, as well as aromatic candles in recycled wine bottles.
@apodec
1. The recently renovated MOMus Museum of Contemporary Art is an essential stop for art lovers. Explore its stunning collection and appreciate how the artwork interacts with the outdoor surroundings, all while basking in the light that fills the space. Don’t forget to indulge in a coffee at the museum’s new café, the perfect end to your visit.
2. Just a short drive from the city center, the Kalochori Lagoon offers a unique blend of industrial and natural beauty. Imagine elegant flamingos against the backdrop of smokestacks and rustic wooden mussel-farming huts perched over the lake’s waters – truly one of Thessaloniki's hidden gems.
3. De Facto (19 Pavlou Mela) has long been a cherished destination. Cozy and inviting in the winter, it’s an ideal spot for people-watching.
4. Deligeorgakis' (58 Aghias Sofias) sweet treats are iconic. Since 1943, they’ve been known predominantly for their loukoumi, but you must also try their marrons glacés, especially in the autumn, which is chestnut season.
5. Akivernites Politeies, a cooperative bookstore and café (28 Alexandrou Svolou), is a true treasure trove. There’s joy in discovering books in their carefully curated selection, and you’ll most likely leave with a new magazine or a beautifully crafted notebook.
1. Cultural Destination
2. Only in Thessaloniki
3. Night out 4. Guilty Pleasure
5. Shopping Therapy
1. Just 18 kilometers from Thessaloniki lies Chortiatis, a member of Europe’s Martyred Cities Network; more than 100 villagers were executed here during the German Occupation. There’s a Roman Aqueduct, and a restored Byzantine church, too.
2. Thessaloniki boasts a remarkable seafront. The stretch from Pier A to the Music Hall offers an inviting uninterrupted walking experience. This promenade is a captivating destination for visitors.
3. Thessaloniki’s nightlife thrives on Iktinou, Zefxidos, Olympou and Filippou streets. My favorite spots here include Elephantas (2 Filippou) for drinks, Pinch (14 Iktinou) for breakfast, Tiffany’s 1905 (3 Iktinou) for wine and dining, Urban (7 Zefxidos) for beer, and Cin Cin (22 Iktinou) for cocktails.
4. The city’s legendary Trigona Panoramatos – flaky filo cones with custard cream – and Armenovil, a semifreddo ice cream dessert, are cultural treasures. Find them at Tasos (16 Komninon, Panorama).
5. A great bottle of wine is the ultimate keepsake. The city has many excellent wine shops: Moby Dick or the Whale (5 Morgentau) , My Cava (86 Georgiou Papandreou), Destilado (9 Lori Margariti), and Winehouse (7 John Kennedy, Pylea)
Creative Director PCP clothing @pellacp
1. The Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki offers more than just a journey through historical treasures; its beautiful lounge café is a hidden gem. Ideal for relaxed conversations or quiet reading under the trees, this inviting space adds a contemporary touch to a classic setting.
2. If you’re looking to disconnect, try the Hammam Baths at the Makedonia Palace Hotel. This heavenly retreat, one of the largest hammams in Greece, is known for its soothing ambiance and kind staff. End your visit with a delightful hibiscus tea and a roseflavored loukoumi.
3. For a laid-back evening, start with a drink at Piece of Cake (19 Chrisostomou Smirnis), followed by a casual beer at Bulldogs & the Beast (1 Alexandrou Svolou). Finish at La Doze (1 Vilara) with its funky music, or head to Stereo (3-5 Dimarchou Vamvaka) for classic ’80s hits spun by Dimos.
4. The Vanilla Gelateria (129 Mitropoleos) offers handcrafted ice cream by Louizos, and the blood orange flavor, if available, is a must-try. The pistachio is equally irresistible!
5. Elegance Plus (86 Tsimiski) on Tsimiski Street is a concept store where you’ll find everything from unique clothing and lingerie to stylish home gadgets. It’s the perfect place for thoughtful gift shopping.
Marketing Director of the Τhessaloniki Concert Hall @prodromos_monastiridis
1. The Rotunda combines the city’s many different faces; look carefully for some of the many ancient Greek, Roman and Ottoman elements that still grace the city. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a concert there!
2. Walk downhill from Yedi Kule, formerly a prison and now a museum, enjoying scenic views of the city as you head for Portara at the edge of the Old City. Head to Moni Vlatadon and then Agiou Dimitriou Street. You’ll see different periods of the city’s history reflected in historic churches, monuments, secret gardens and other sights that you pass.
1. Cultural Destination
2. Only in Thessaloniki
3. Night out
4. Guilty Pleasure
5. Shopping Therapy
3. Gourmet food, traditional Greek cuisine and street food treats can be found on streets such as Palaion Patron Germanou, Iktinou, Zefxidos and Pavlou Mela, as can lively spots for good music! Check out the bar Vogatsikou 3 (at that address) for great cocktails, L’Autre Café for a relaxing drink (8 Grigoriou Palama), Urban for music and beers (7 Zefxidos), and Local (17 Palaion Patron Germanou) for fine food and Greek wines.
4. Neos Galerios (3 Apellou), once a historic Thessaloniki café, is now a gourmet destination in the heart of the city.
5. The store Artpeckers (12 Valaoritou) is where to find inspired accessories from two exceptionally creative artists. The art space Ro Gallery (5 Romanou) is home to exhibitions, events, and some of the city's best designers.
A stroll along the promenade can, according to those locals who walk or exercise every day along the city’s six-kilometer seafront, work miracles with your mood. The promenade has transformed the people’s appreciation of the sea by providing stunning views of the Thermaic Gulf, particularly at sunset, when nature puts on a spectacular show.
THESSALONIKI CAUGHT ON CAMERA
BY PANTELIS TSOMPANIS | PHOTOS:
The “Umbrellas” sculpture is undoubtedly Thessaloniki’s most photographed modern landmark. This open-air artwork by George Zongolopoulos, on a wooden deck at the New Waterfront, has captured the hearts of locals, who frequently use it as a meeting point, and visitors, who flock to take pictures of it. Nearby, the Statue of Alexander the Great, framed by the Royal Theater and the distinctive White Tower, is a popular skater hangout.
As night settles over Thessaloniki, the shops lining Aristotelous Street pull down their shutters and a steady stream of city buses unload young revelers in search of a memorable evening. They move with purpose beneath the grand arches (designed by French urban planner Ernest Hébrard, who reimagined the city in the wake of the Great Fire of 1917) before pausing at the intersection with Tsimiski Street, where the lively strains of jazz from street musicians outside the Olympion Cinema provide a vibrant soundtrack to the city’s evenings.
Major infrastructure projects, a significant urban revamp and vibrant cultural events are reshaping Thessaloniki’s identity.
BY JOHN PAPADIMITRIOU
The section of the old waterfront from the port to the White Tower will be widened.
Left: The port is a key development axis for the city.
A rendering of Eleftherias Square as it will look when redevelopment is completed.
IIT’S A CRISP MID-OCTOBER
Saturday morning outside the Aghia Sofia metro station on Egnatia Street. A group of teenagers with skateboards and rollerblades have paused under the striking station canopy to snap photos of the Decumanus Maximus – the city’s main road in ancient times dating back to the 3rd century BC, uncovered during the station’s construction. These young skaters were probably not even born on July 1, 2006, when Thessaloniki’s largest infrastructure project began – the metro system, with a total investment of €1.5 billion. Now, with the much-anticipated opening date set for November 30, the city is on the brink of celebration.
For Thessaloniki residents, the end of this long wait is more than just a relief – it marks a return to a smoother daily life after years of disruption caused by construction. With the removal of worksites, the city is already starting to feel more functional and, dare we say, a little more beautiful.
But the excitement goes beyond aesthetics. The metro’s launch, even in its initial phase with 13 stations connecting the Central Railway Station to Nea Elvetia in the east, is fueling hopes of economic growth and an improved quality of life. Beyond transportation, the project has also unearthed significant archaeological discoveries, leading to plans for two new museums that will enrich Thessaloniki’s cultural offerings.
One of these will be housed in the redeveloped grounds of the old Pavlos Melas military base in the west and is expected to be completed by late 2025. Among its exhibits will be treasures from a late antiquity villa uncovered
THE METRO’S LAUNCH, EVEN IN ITS INITIAL PHASE WITH 13 STATIONS CONNECTING THE CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION TO NEA ELVETIA IN THE EAST, IS FUELING HOPES OF ECONOMIC GROWTH AND AN IMPROVED QUALITY OF LIFE.
at Aghia Sofia Station. The second museum, with a budget of €40 million, will be built at Sintrivani Station, the “crossover” point where the metro and railway lines meet. Spanning 6,370 square meters over four levels, it will showcase a portion of the 300,000 artifacts discovered during the metro excavations alongside displaced antiquities. In essence, it will tell the story of the city and the various phases of the metro’s construction. The entrance of this museum, located on Egnatia Street near Aristotle University and the Thessaloniki International Fair, is set to become one of the city’s new landmarks.
The full operation of the metro in about 18 months, with a functioning extension eastward towards Mikra and five additional stations, is expected to significantly ease the city’s traffic woes. Complementing these efforts, the construction of the Flyover – a new elevated expressway linking the city’s eastern and western gateways – promises further relief. This project, which includes a 7.6 km elevated highway, slated for completion in 2027, is expected to serve 20,000 vehicles per hour in both directions.
The new traffic dynamics emerging from the metro and Flyover projects are setting the stage for a more pedestrian-friendly city center, making Thessaloniki more inviting for both residents and visitors. A prime example of this shift is the long-awaited pedestrianization of the second section of Aghia Sofia Street, one of the city’s most central
avenues. The plan includes converting the stretch from Tsimiski Street to Nikis Avenue into a pedestrian-only zone, with a new square to be created in front of the city’s metropolitan cathedral. This will be the only pedestrian thoroughfare that cuts vertically through the heart of Thessaloniki, a concept initially met with skepticism. Many argued it would disrupt a key traffic artery; today, everyone enjoys strolling and shopping along this vibrant commercial strip.
“My goal is to link my mayoral term with the reclaiming and reimagining of public space. A city cannot truly thrive unless it’s sustainable and, of course, clean. Only then, combined with the completion of major infrastructure projects, can it become an attractive destination, first and foremost for its residents and then for visitors,” says Mayor Stelios Angeloudis. “In our first year, we prioritized sanitation and the revival of major urban revamp projects. For sanitation, we reorganized services to be more efficient, and increased bulky waste sorting points; we’ve also upgraded our street-cleaning fleet with new vehicles expected to arrive this spring. As for the revamps, we’ve kickstarted projects that had stalled or were mired in bureaucracy.” An example of this new momentum can be seen in the excitement over the appearance of street-cleaning crews on major roads such as Mitropoleos Street this past winter. Residents were so impressed they took photos that went viral on social media. Something similar is expected when the much-anticipated renovation of the Aristotelous Square area. Aristotelous Square, the second most iconic site in Thessaloniki after the White Tower, is undergoing a €20 million facelift. This includes the addition of both high and low greenery, but with the central section kept open, allowing unobstructed views – critical, as the original design by French architect Ernest Hébrard centered on maintaining clear sightlines to Mount Olympus.
At the same time, progress is being made on the tendering process for redesigning the Old Seafront – the promenade stretching from Pier A of the port to the White Tower. This popular walking path needs to be widened, as it often becomes congested. Meanwhile, the tendering process for the redevelopment of Dimokratias and Dioikitiriou squares is also advancing. These projects will breathe new life into critical areas of the city center. Bulldozers have already begun work as part of the redevelopment of the Papafi Stables. This project will create a modern multipurpose space, blending social facilities such as a shelter and a nursery with cultural and sporting amenities, including a municipal gymnasium and a library. The complex will also feature underground parking.
One of Thessaloniki’s most rapidly changing areas is its west section. This stretch runs from Eleftherias Square, where a memorial park is being constructed to honor the 50,000 Thessaloniki Jews who perished in Nazi concentration camps, all the way to the new Holocaust Museum, currently being built near the Old Railway Station. This entire zone, which also includes Thessaloniki’s port, is witnessing a flurry of development. Kicking off this wave of transformation was the September launch of Hub 26, the city’s first large-scale bioclimatic business park, which has already attracted innovative companies, financial institutions and branches of multinational corporations, marking a significant shift in the area’s business landscape.
Directly across the street, the former Fix Brewery site has come back to life. Spanning 23,000 square meters, the redevelopment here is breathing new life into the old industrial complex through a blend of preserved and repurposed buildings alongside new constructions. The final result will be a modern, mixed-use complex with commercial, professional, residential and entertainment spaces.
Thessaloniki’s western gateway is also closely tied to the expansion of Pier 6 at the Thessaloniki Port Authority and its connection to the A1 motorway. Although the project is progressing, the integration with the railway line is experiencing significant delays. Nonetheless, the port continues to be an important growth driver for the city. Last year, it recorded the highest container throughput in its history, handling 520,048 20-foot equivalent containers, while the newly inaugurated Alexander the Great cruise terminal welcomed 60,077 passengers in its first year.
Alongside these infrastructure projects and targeted interventions accelerating Thessaloniki’s transformation, the city has experienced a cultural renaissance over the past two years. It seems to have found its rhythm again, with a robust cultural calendar throughout the year. A prime example is the 59th Dimitria Festival, one of the country’s longest-running cultural institutions, which this year fittingly embraced the theme of “Transformation.” Over five weeks (Sept. 19-Nov. 1), the city hosted a variety of events, from a performance by the Zurich Chamber Orchestra at the Rotunda to a lecture by French author Pascal Bruckner at the recently renovated Olympion, which also hosted the 65th Thessaloniki International Film Festival (Oct. 31-Nov. 10).
“In this year’s Dimitria,” notes Stefanos Tsitsopoulos, the festival’s artistic coordinator, “we sought to incorporate all corners of the city, highlighting its
IS UNDERGOING A €20 MILLION FACELIFT.
vibrant contemporary cultural scene – from dance and literature to music and gastronomy. We blended the classical with the fresh, the bold with the familiar, and youthful enthusiasm with institutional tradition. Together with other cultural events, the festival forms what we like to call the “Thessaloniki atmosphere’ of perpetual culture, where everyone can find something to be inspired by and to enjoy.” In addition to Dimitria, 2024 also saw the 20th International Electronic Music Festival (Sept. 18-22), which featured top artists such as French composer and superstar Cerrone and the revival of the Byzantine Week (April 20-27). This event featured Byzantine choirs, European choral music, recitals, and dramatic
16 Toques d’Or Greek Cuisine Awards
3 Gourmet Distinctions
6 FNL Best Restaurant Award
2 IFWTWA Certificate of Appreciation
3 Estiatoria.gr Premium Award
Top Notch Toques d’Or Special Distinction (2022-2021-2020)
T: +30 2373041570, +30 2373041825
Book your table: marina-fish.gr
monologues held in UNESCO-listed Byzantine churches, which are some of the city’s most cherished cultural landmarks.
A key player in this cultural resurgence is MOMus (Metropolitan Organization of Museums of Visual Arts of Thessaloniki), which comprises five museums – four in Thessaloniki and one in Athens. This year, for the first time, the MOMus-Museum of Modern Art-Costakis Collection hosted a Pablo Picasso exhibition (July 12-Nov. 10), in collaboration with the Museo Casa Natal Picasso in Malaga.
Beyond this, MOMus embraced 34 independent productions between 2022 and mid-2024, attracting over
154,000 visitors. It also expanded its educational initiatives, making culture more accessible to the broader community. One such initiative was an art therapy program for oncology patients.
“Our goal was to become an integral part of the city’s life and a cultural reference point, and I believe we’ve succeeded,” says Epaminondas Christophilopoulos, president of MOMus.
“In the last two years, we’ve tripled our ticket sales, multiplied private sponsorships, and upgraded many of our facilities. At the same time, we’ve hosted prominent international artists like the Kabakovs, participated in exhibitions across Europe and Asia, including the Shanghai Biennale, and developed an
extensive educational program for all ages. Culture, after all, is for everyone.”
Looking ahead, one highlight will be the upcoming exhibition “Collective Threads: Anna Andreeva at the Red Rose Silk Factory” at the MOMus-Museum of Modern Art-Costakis Collection (Dec. 7, 2024-April 27, 2025). This exhibition focuses on applied arts, particularly avant-garde textile design, and pays tribute to the artist Anna Andreeva and the women’s collectives of Soviet-era productive art.
Thessaloniki’s cultural transformation, like the city itself, is a work in progress – constantly evolving, and layering new chapters onto its rich, historical tapestry.•
ANTICIPATION IS ALREADY building in Thessaloniki for the Holocaust Museum of Greece, construction of which is set to begin in 2025. Designed by an international collaboration of architects – Efrat-Kowalsky Architects from Israel, Heide & von Beckerath Architects from Germany, and Makridis Associates from Greece – this ambitious project aims to honor history while inspiring future generations. Architect Petros Makridis calls the project “an act of remembrance and respect.” He explains: “The Holocaust Museum of Greece is not merely an architectural endeavor; it’s a profound responsibility. It will serve as a bridge between the past and the future, resonating with all of Thessaloniki’s communities, a city historically shaped by migration and refuge.”
The museum will chronicle the history and cultural and economic contributions of Thessaloniki’s Jewish community, from their arrival after the Spanish expulsion in the 15th century to the present day. By the 19th century, the Jewish community had become not only the largest but also one of the most influential in the city, greatly aiding the city’s economic development and closely following the technological advancements of the Industrial Revolution in Europe. During this period, the city’s prosperity was remarkable. New ideas for construction techniques (such as the use of iron), urban planning (the creation of arcades with shops), the establishment of modern industries (including landmarks such as the Allatini mills), and trade were adopted.
The museum’s design is inspired by Thessaloniki’s octagonal monuments, such as those in the Roman-Byzantine Galerian Complex, as well as by the Tower of the Winds in Athens. The use of different materials in the Museum’s eight facades is a reference to the characteristic layering of materials in the historic walls of Thessaloniki and in many other preserved monuments. Seamlessly combining marble and concrete, the structure rises in three distinct sections, each representing a specific function. The design becomes lighter as it rises with perforated elements on the upper levels that allow natural light to filter into the building, creating a sense of
weightlessness. These features also reinterpret geometric motifs from Sephardic architecture, combining historical allusion with contemporary innovation.
The museum, which will include six above-ground and two underground levels, will feature permanent and temporary exhibitions displaying both artifacts and photographs, as well as educational spaces and a multi-purpose floor that will host gatherings, ceremonies and lectures. Transparent elements on the ground floor will offer glimpses into other exhibition areas. The museum will also feature a café with outdoor seating and a gift shop, offering spaces for relaxation and reflection. In the garden, a Wall of Memory will stand as a quiet tribute to lives lost and stories remembered.
The exhibition materials are currently being developed in New York; they will include relics from Thessaloniki and other parts of the world, such as Russia and Poland. The public Research Archive Hall will contain archival items while also serving as a library. For scholars, a dedicated archive space on the second underground level will be an invaluable resource for study and research.•
Thirty years after the first plans were announced, a new subway system is changing not just how residents get around town but how they experience their city, too.
The brand-new subway cars of the 9.6-kilometer line, running from Neos Sidirodromikos Stathmos to Nea Elvetia.
BY GIORGOS LIALIOS
TTHESSALONIKI HAS WAITED nearly three decades for this moment. The metro, the city’s newest crown jewel, has caused the people of Thessaloniki much hardship over the years: traffic and economic challenges, division over the ancient artifacts discovered during excavations, and political clashes. However, all that was forgotten when the ribbon was finally cut at the inauguration ceremony.
Thessaloniki’s subway (a “sibling” of the Milan and Copenhagen metros due to their shared technological approach) is now a reality! It extends for 9.6 kilometers beneath the city, beginning at the Neos Sidirodromikos Stathmos in the west and ending at Nea Elvetia in the east. The 13 stations span nearly the entire city center, offering easy access to Thessaloniki’s main squares and major attractions.
The new subway system features Greece’s first driverless trains (although there are attendants on board), and the stations have automated platform door systems, making it easier to air-condition them and thus conserve energy. Another first for Greece is that Thessaloniki’s metro is the country’s first public transportation system to be operated by a private company, the Thema Consortium. Experienced travelers will also notice that the stations are deeper underground (ranging from -14 to -31 meters) compared to those in Athens, a choice made to avoid disturbing the city’s archaeological layers during construction. Let’s not forget that this city has been continuously inhabited for over 2,000 years.
THESSALONIKI’S SUBWAY FEATURES GREECE’S FIRST DRIVERLESS TRAINS (ALTHOUGH THERE ARE ATTENDANTS ON BOARD), AND THE STATIONS HAVE AUTOMATED PLATFORM DOOR SYSTEMS.
In fact, work on the metro led to great archaeological discoveries, but that was also why construction took so long. Even though the tunnels were constructed at sufficient depth, building the 13 stations and the requisite ventilation shafts required extensive archaeological excavations – the largest ever such undertaking carried out in the city, spanning approximately 20,000 square meters. It’s estimated that more than 300,000 artifacts were unearthed during the work, which began in 2006 but, rather than being completed in 2012 as planned, was instead completed in late 2024.
These archaeological digs distinguish the Thessaloniki metro as both a modern transit system and a tourist attraction. Antiquities were discovered at several of the stations, including two in the historic center (Venizelou and Aghia Sofia), two outside the city walls to the west (Dimokratias and Neos Sidirodromikos Stathmos), and three in the east (Sindrivani, Panepistimio and Fleming stations,) as well as at the Pylea depot.
The discoveries at the Venizelou and Aghia Sofia stations, just 800 meters apart, reflect the city’s urban development over time, centered on the main road that has traversed the city from its founding and through its various stages: the Hellenistic gravel road and, during the Roman era and Late Antiquity, the Decumanus Maximus and the Byzantine Avenue or Middle Street, today’s Egnatia Street. Surrounding those streets were the densely built blocks that formed the neighborhoods of the city’s Byzantine marketplace. Shops and workshops flanked the street, exhibiting things for
sale. A wealth of small artifacts and jewelry, including breastplate crosses, glass and bronze bracelets, and bronze – and occasionally silver – rings, attest to the area’s long-standing commercial character, particularly in the silver and goldsmithing trades.
According to the Ministry of Culture, the finds at the Venizelou Station comprehensively document the city’s successive building phases from Hellenistic times. The excavations revealed previously unknown archaeological layers, as Roman-era relics were unearthed during work on the Late Antiquity strata. Even though the Venizelou Station covers only 1,260 square meters, the archaeological dig spanned at least 3,500 square meters. It revealed the city’s founding phase under Cassander, which followed a Hippodamian grid layout with only minor deviations from the main street network.
The fate of the antiquities discovered at Venizelou Station divided scientists and local residents. A large segment of the scientific community advocated for the in-situ preservation of the artifacts. Successive governments took
different views, with the most recent deciding to remove the antiquities to make way for the station’s development. They were subsequently reinstalled at the same location (but at a different depth) within the station. The result is a large indoor archaeological site of great interest that’s accessible to visitors.
In many stations, passengers can view a small portion of the antiquities found at each site on display. The Ministry of Culture has announced plans to build an underground archaeological museum in the city center, dedicated to artifacts discovered during the construction of the metro. Thessaloniki’s metro will shortly witness its first expansion: the first extension to the east, toward Kalamaria, will be added in the fall of 2025, with 4.8 kilometers of tunnels and five additional stations.
The environmental impact is also important, since the Kalamaria expansion is expected to serve over 300,000 passengers per day once completed. It’s predicted that, with the system fully operational, there will be around 57,000 fewer private automobiles on the roads each day, lowering CO2 emissions by 212 tons per day.•
When it comes to applications that demand the highest standards, FIBRAN products rise to the occasion. Our range of advanced solutions ensures durability, efficiency, and unmatched performance, tailored to meet the unique challenges of your projects. Choose FIBRAN for reliability and innovation in every application.
Now that Thessaloniki has, at last, a subway system, we propose a unique history tour that follows the route of that new metro line, taking you from west to east to explore monuments and other points of interest connecting the city’s rich past with its vibrant present.
BY TASOS PAPADOPOULOS, archaeologist and tour guide
Since its inauguration in 1962, Thessaloniki’s New Railway Station has been a landmark in the history of Greek transportation. A prime example of 1960s modernist architecture, it is one of the largest railway stations in the Balkans. Even if you’re not planning to travel by train, the area around the station contains historical treasures waiting to be explored. Heading south from the station along Stavrou Voutyra Street, visitors can walk through the site of the former Jewish neighborhood of Baron Hirsch. During WWII, the Nazis transformed this area into a notorious ghetto. At the end of Voutyra Street, you’ll reach the Old Railway Station, a location tied to one of the darkest chapters in Thessaloniki’s history. It was from here, in 1943, that 55,000 Jews from Thessaloniki were deported to Auschwitz. This location is currently undergoing a transformative project that will shed light on these somber events. Work has begun on the construction of the new Holocaust Museum and Research Center, an eagerly awaited cultural institution that will illuminate the city’s Jewish heritage and commemorate the victims of the Holocaust, offering a space for reflection and remembrance while celebrating the resilience of a community that has left an indelible mark on the city’s identity.
While its official name is Plateia Dimokratias, most locals still call this bustling square Vardaris. Once known for its red-light district and seedy establishments – now relocated much further west – this area has changed considerably. Today, Plateia Dimokratias is home to the imposing marble statue of King Constantine I, crafted in 1937 by Athenian sculptor Georgios Dimitriadis. This stately monument stands as a reminder of Thessaloniki’s historical connection to Greece’s monarchy.
Just a short walk from the metro station, along Paparrigopoulou Street, visitors will encounter one of the city’s most significant Byzantine landmarks: the Church of Aghioi Apostoloi (“Holy Apostles”). Dating back to the early 14th century, this masterpiece of the Palaeologan Renaissance boasts remarkably well preserved frescoes and exquisite mosaics, a true testament to the city’s rich Byzantine heritage.
To the south of the station, following the path of Thessaloniki’s western Byzantine walls and passing by the city’s courthouse, you’ll reach the Vardaris Fortress, known as Top-Hane during the Ottoman era. This historic site has seen a revival in recent years, with a number of trendy restaurants and bars springing up, drawing crowds of young people eager to enjoy the fusion of history and modern urban life.
Venizelou Station lies in the heart of Thessaloniki’s historic center. During its construction, archaeologists uncovered a section of the city’s main avenue from the Late Roman and Early Byzantine periods – the renowned Mese Odos, which mirrors the path of today’s bustling Egnatia Street. A portion of the marble-paved Byzantine road, carefully removed during the metro’s construction, has been reinstalled within the station, turning it into a site of immense archaeological significance. Travelers passing through will have Thessaloniki’s ancient past right beneath their feet.
Adjacent to Venizelou Station is the impressive Hamza Bey Mosque, the oldest mosque in the city. Built in 1467-1468 by Hafse Hatun, the daughter of Hamza Bey, it was a tribute to her father, who had been impaled by Vlad the Impaler – the historical figure who, due to his brutal treatment of his enemies, inspired the infamous Dracula legend. For decades in the 20th century, locals referred to the building as Alkazar, named after the cinema that operated on the site. After a period of neglect, the monument has undergone extensive restoration and it is set to be repurposed for cultural events, bringing new life to this ancient site.
On the southern side of the station, visitors will encounter another significant Ottoman landmark, the impressive Bezesteni, a covered market dating back to the mid-15th century. Once the bustling center of the luxury silk and jewelry trade, the Bezesteni still hosts shops today and remains open to the public. Just across the street, you can step into Kapani Market, Thessaloniki’s traditional market, where the city’s vibrant spirit is alive and well. Here, you’ll find everything from fresh fish, meats and spices to olives, clothing and shoes – all at very reasonable prices.
Venizelou Station and the nearby Aghia Sofia Station are ideal starting points for those looking to explore Thessaloniki’s central square, Aristotelous Square. From the square, visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of both the Thermaic Gulf and imposing Mt Olympus in the distance, taking in the beauty of the natural landscape along with the lively city atmosphere.
Without a doubt, this is Thessaloniki’s most “Byzantine” metro station. During construction, two Byzantine-era squares were uncovered – one to the north and one to the south of the central Egnatia Street. With its distinctive S-shaped design, the northern square has been transformed into an open-air archaeological site, where a wooden pedestrian bridge allows visitors to enjoy an unobstructed view of the ancient ruins. Meanwhile, a portion of the circular southern square has been carefully relocated to street level, offering a glimpse into the city’s Byzantine urban planning.
The station’s historical significance extends beyond these archaeological finds. Right next to the station, facing Makedonomachon Square, stands the imposing early Christian basilica of Panagia Acheiropoietos. This 5th-century church is the oldest continuously used church in Thessaloniki. It also holds a unique relic of the city’s Ottoman history: an inscription in Ottoman Turkish on a column in the northern colonnade, marking Sultan Murad II’s capture of Thessaloniki on March 29, 1430 – an intriguing momento from the city’s fall to the Ottomans.
From here, a short two-minute walk south along Aghia Sofia Street brings you to the magnificent Church of Aghia Sofia, the Byzantine Metropolitan Cathedral of Thessaloniki. This stunning church is renowned for its exquisite mosaics, especially those in the dome and the apse of the sanctuary, which are prime examples of Byzantine artistry.
Aghia Sofia Street itself leads directly into the heart of Thessaloniki’s bustling commercial district, before ending at the city’s vibrant seafront, Nikis Avenue. Here, you can relax at one of the many cafés and restaurants that offer breathtaking, uninterrupted views of the sea and majestic Mt Olympus.
Legend has it that when Thessaloniki’s fountain was inaugurated in 1889, during the twilight of the Ottoman Empire, it gushed not water but cherry sherbet, much to the delight and surprise of the city’s residents. Today, the historic fountain lends its name to Sintrivani Station, the perfect gateway for those eager to explore Thessaloniki’s remarkable Roman monuments.
A mere hundred meters away, once again on Egnatia Street, you’ll encounter one of the city’s most iconic landmarks: the Triumphal Arch of Emperor Galerius, or simply the “Kamara,” as the locals call it. Thessalonians have long used the Kamara as a meeting point, making it a central part of daily life. Dating back to the early 4th century AD, the arch is adorned with intricate reliefs that depict Galerius’ victories over the Persians. The detailed battle scenes and depictions of triumph are breathtaking, and among the carvings you can spot exotic animals – elephants, lions, big cats and camels – still marching along bustling Egnatia Street, as if impervious to time.
Just beyond the arch stands perhaps the most significant monument in the city: the famed Rotunda. Initially believed to have been built as a temple to the Greco-Roman gods, it was later converted into a Christian church for over a thousand years before becoming a mosque in 1591 during Ottoman rule. The Rotunda has served as a sanctuary for believers of three different religions, embodying Thessaloniki’s complex and multicultural history. Its symbolic significance cannot be overstated, reflecting the city’s rich tapestry of faiths and cultures.
To the south of Egnatia, on bustling Navarinou Square, a favorite meeting place of the city's many students, stand the imposing ruins of the Galerian Palace Complex. The square is a hub of activity, with its many cafés, famous crepe shops and alternative bookstores adding to its vibrant atmosphere.
Sintrivani Station also provides easy access to Thessaloniki’s international exhibition grounds and to the western edge of the Aristotle University campus, making it a key stop for visitors and students alike.
Embryolab, a leading Fertility Clinic in Thessaloniki established in 2004, boasts a team of highly skilled doctors, embryologists, and scientists with extensive expertise in fertility. Committed to excellence, Embryolab offers fertility care, combining exceptional clinical experience with a state-of-the-art lab, equipped with cutting-edge technology. We operate the next-generation In Vitro Fertilization (IVF) Laboratory using Artificial Intelligence (AI) and timelapse technology to reduce time to pregnancy and increase success rates. Our clinical focus is evidence-based approaches and personalized investigation and treatment planning for optimum outcome.
As its name (“panepistimio” means “university”) suggests, this station primarily serves the students, faculty and staff of the city’s premier educational institution. Thessaloniki’s Aristotle University – the largest academic campus in the Balkans – has been a driving force in the city’s cultural and educational life since its foundation in 1925. Located today on the site of the old Jewish cemetery, the destruction of which began under the Nazis in 1942 and continued under local authorities after WWII, the university is currently home to over 100,000 students. This constant influx of youth keeps Thessaloniki one of Greece’s most vibrant and lively cities.
The university isn’t just an educational hub, it’s also a space of architectural and cultural significance. With extensive green areas, important libraries, small museums and notable modernist buildings, the university, along with the neighboring University of Macedonia, are among Thessaloniki’s most remarkable landmarks. The campus offers a blend of history, culture and learning, making it a cornerstone of the city’s identity.
Whether you’re visiting for academic purposes or simply sightseeing, Panepistimio Station is the perfect entry point to explore this lively part of Thessaloniki.
Papafi Station takes its name from the nearby imposing building of the Papafeio Orphanage, an institution of great importance to Thessaloniki’s Greek community. Built between 1894 and 1904, during the late Ottoman period, the orphanage provided not only shelter and food to its charges but vocational training as well, giving youngsters the skills they needed to build a better future for themselves. The building, a masterpiece by renowned architect Xenophon Paionidis, bears the name of the great national benefactor Ioannis Papafis, who amassed his wealth through business and trade, particularly in Malta.
The orphanage played a vital role beyond its initial purpose. During the Balkan Wars, it was converted into a hospital. It is also where the body of King George I was taken after his assassination in Thessaloniki in March 1913, adding another poignant historical layer to the building’s legacy.
A ten-minute walk from Papafi Station brings you to the Toumba Stadium, the home of the football club PAOK; a major landmark for sports enthusiasts, it’s also a symbol of Thessaloniki’s deep-rooted love for “the beautiful game.”
Efkleidis Station was named after a large technical and vocational high school, a key educational institution in the city. The station is also near one of the few Macedonian tombs in Thessaloniki. This ancient tomb was initially discovered by French soldiers from the Army of the Orient during WWI, only to be reburied and excavated again in 1940-1941. Dating back to the 3rd century BC, part of the tomb’s funerary bed was transported to France, where it is now on exhibit in the Louvre Museum.
Directly across from the Macedonian tomb is the beautiful early 20th-century Eclecticist building of the old Russian Hospital, which now houses the Historical Archive of Macedonia. This striking structure adds to the rich architectural tapestry of the area, connecting the past with the present. Nearby, you’ll also find two of Thessaloniki’s modern hospitals – the Theageneio Cancer Hospital and the Ippokrateio General Hospital. The latter evolved from the old Jewish Hirsch Hospital, further illustrating the city’s diverse cultural and historical layers.
The Fleming and Analipsi stations are located in Thessaloniki’s densely populated eastern districts, infamous for their parking problems. In addition to offering much-needed relief for local residents, these subway stations will also serve as ideal starting points for those wishing to explore what was once the city’s most beautiful neighborhood – Exoches.
Just a short walk south from the stations brings you to Vasilissis Olgas Avenue, where visitors can admire several stunning villas from the Belle Époque era. Once filled with these grand residences, the area has been gradually transformed, as many of these historic homes have given way to modern apartment buildings that often lack the visual charm of their predecessors. However, a few of these architectural gems remain and now house important cultural institutions. The Folklore and Ethnological Museum of Macedonia-Thrace, the National Bank Cultural Foundation, and the Center for Byzantine Research are each housed in elegant mansions and are open to the public.
Moreover, both Fleming and Analipsi stations provide convenient access for those who want to enjoy a leisurely stroll along Thessaloniki’s New Waterfront, one of the city’s most popular walking spots. Here, locals and visitors alike can take in the serene sea views, making it the perfect place to relax after a day of exploring.
As you reach the eastern fringes of Thessaloniki, close to the route leading to the famous beaches of Halkidiki, the 25 Martiou and Voulgari stations serve as perfect starting points for exploring the historic Depot neighborhood. Named after the old tram depot, which is still standing, this area offers a glimpse into Thessaloniki’s past through some striking architectural examples.
One of the neighborhood’s highlights is the Villa Mordoch, now home to the 5th Municipal District office. Another gem is the Villa Bianca, which once witnessed a love affair that captivated the city and that now houses the Municipal Art Gallery. The Allatini Villa, to which Sultan Abdul Hamid II was exiled for three-and-a-half years by Istanbul’s Young Turks, adds a royal touch to the district. These landmarks, all within walking distance of the stations, are an important part of Thessaloniki’s Eclecticist heritage.
The penultimate stop before the depot, Nea Elvetia Station marks the eastern terminus of the subway’s main line. The station takes its name from Nea Elvetia Park, the only urban park within the city’s dense residential fabric, offering a green escape in the middle of Thessaloniki. Sports fans will also appreciate the station’s proximity to Kleanthis Vikelidis Stadium, home to Aris Thessaloniki, one of the city’s best-loved football teams.
Nearby, you’ll find another piece of the city’s industrial heritage – the historic Allatini Brickworks. Recent reports suggest that this area is set for a major transformation, with plans for redevelopment, including Thessaloniki’s first-ever skyscraper, which promises to reshape the city’s skyline and create a new urban hub.
The long-awaited Thessaloniki metro system is arriving at a time when the city needs it more than ever. Beyond the convenience it offers residents and visitors, the subway will serve as a gateway to some of the city’s most important monuments and points of interest. Passengers will not only move through Thessaloniki with greater ease, they will also gain the opportunity to explore its rich historical and archaeological heritage along the way. With future expansions already announced, there is hope that the new system will not only bridge physical distances but will also, over time, deepen the connection between its passengers and the cultural legacy of this vibrant Balkan metropolis.•
In the shadow of Byzantine ruins and industrial facades, the West Wall Collective has transformed a historic landmark into a vibrant symbol of collaboration. This group of creatives is redefining community spirit, seamlessly blending artistry and teamwork to revitalize Thessaloniki’s Aghioi Apostoloi neighborhood.
BY AMBER CHARMEI
The members of the collective express themselves through various mediums ranging from the digital to the tactile, the latter exemplified here by the work of ceramicist and architect Simos Antoniadis (at right).
Above: Creativity takes shape at Ecolapsis.
Left: “Yes, But What Were You Wearing?” – the title of Nefeli Kyriakou’s digital painting escapes from under the lid of a pot.
TTIME HAD LONG forgotten this quiet corner of the city, but it has since become one of the most intriguing contemporary destinations in Thessaloniki. Tucked behind the Byzantine walls, just steps away from the city’s bustle, lies a serene pocket of urban life near the Church of Aghioi Apostoloi (“Holy Apostles”). The area contains apartment buildings, auto supply shops, a few bakeries, cafés, a florist and a taverna. And now, seemingly overnight, numerous studios – gradually over the last few years, then with a surge in recent months – have made creativity the defining characteristic of the neighborhood.
The past is palpable here, a quiet presence. About five years ago, Mike Rafail, an interdisciplinary designer and founder of That Long Black Cloud, recognized the area as the ideal place to pursue a broader vision after two decades in graphic design. Architect Simos Antoniadis opened ULURU, his ceramics studio, where “you can hear the birds.” Soon, others followed: Konstantinos Kesidis started Ecolapsis, and Eleni Papaevangelou and Konstantinos Theodoridis of Form Related, along with Babis Papanikolaou of 157+173, launched a shared studio. Dimitris Avgerinos and Christina Balouktsi, specialists in museum-quality printing, established Matte Black, while artist Nefeli Kyriakou and third-generation photographer Konstantinos Vattis of Studio 21 moved in, too. More studios emerged, and hardly any of the
newcomers realized others were already here. The neighborhood wasn’t known for its creative scene. They were drawn by the same qualities – stillness, appealing spaces, and a sense of nostalgia. It was like an urban example of morphic resonance. Discovering one another was a pleasant surprise, leading to shared resources and support as the community expanded. Today, 16 studios, all within a five-minute walk, form a dense cluster of creativity with a shared vision. A year ago, they officially became a collective, and progress sped up.
“The collaboration, the exchange of ideas – that’s essential for me,” says Mike. In addition to his studio for photography, film, graphics and branding, he opened a flexible space across the street. It includes a design shop and ceramics studio where he collaborates with his sister, Maria. At both, joint projects, workshops and happenings take place, and he welcomes other artists to share their work through exhibitions and other events.
At Ecolapsis, interaction is integral to the creative process. Konstantinos describes the studio as “focused on experience and cultivating imagination.” Workshops and experimentation lead to ideas expressed across various mediums – sometimes evolving into a visual identity for organizations. The use of recycled and biodegradable materials reflects a commitment to community and sustainability as a mindset.
For Kipos (“Garden”), connection and community are the heart of the matter. Maria Megalopoulou opened the space a decade ago to host seminars and workshops on subjects such as theater, creative writing, filmmaking and philosophy. “Kipos brings together people who might never otherwise meet,” she says. “It’s a place of expression and self-realization, and for fostering community.” Christos Kydros and Anthie Lekka, sculptors and ceramicists, share that goal, offering classes at Magma Lab alongside their own work. For some, creativity is inherently solitary. “For us, a third place is especially important,”
says jewelry designer Anna Ntinopoulou of Anoushe. “Home is the first place; work is the second. The place where you connect with the community – that’s the third place. This neighborhood is our third place.” For Nefeli, whose primarily figurative paintings, prints and works on paper often convey introspection, the collective is essential. “Art can be isolating. Here, we truly connect. We inspire one another; there’s a lot of energy and encouragement.”
Nikos Iosif, the collective’s other fine artist, creates textile collages from his collection of vintage fabrics, each piece rich with history. His subjects, brought to life with vivid expression, often come from childhood photographs. Creating these works here adds another layer of meaning. Nikos is a local; he lives nearby and grew up in the apartment above his uncle’s auto supply shop, now home to That Long Black Cloud. He’s invested in the area, as are the others – that’s the magic of both the district and the collective. Kipos, for instance, occupies the former site of Maria’s grandparents’ house and garden. Under Greece’s antiparochi system (where a property owner gives a site to a developer in exchange for one or more apartments in the newly constructed building), the old house made way for a modern apartment building in a neighborhood where her grandfather had the local grocery store. Athina Voudouri of Salty Moon Jewels, who was baptized in the Church of Aghioi Apostoloi, grew up playing near the Byzantine walls. “When I opened my shop here,” she says, “people said it was a ‘weird place for a girl’ – dangerous, deserted. But I believed in my neighborhood.”
Tattoo artist Mimoza of Absinth Tattoo shares a similar attachment. She and her husband, a carpenter, spent a decade in a live/work warehouse here. “We used to look at the empty stores and think, ‘Wouldn’t it be great if people opened studios here?’” When
she found a space near Matte Black, she knew it was the right fit.
The district has a low profile but a strong presence. The streets are a vintage graphic-design paradise, reminiscent of the 1970s, though the area’s history runs much deeper. The Pasha Hamam, now overgrown with vines, opened in 1529 and served as a public bath until 1981; the Church of Aghioi Apostoloi has been a spiritual center since the 14th century; and the West Walls define the city’s historic edge. While some changes, including the widening of sidewalks in Plateia Mavili, have occurred, the area’s essence remains intact, and the collective cherishes this. Eleni and Konstantinos of Form Related previously worked in
“WHEN I OPENED MY SHOP HERE,PEOPLE SAID IT WAS A ‘WEIRD PLACE FOR A GIRL’ – DANGEROUS, DESERTED. BUT I BELIEVED IN MY NEIGHBORHOOD.”
For Maria Megalopoulou, the neighborhood beside the West Walls is truly home –Kipos is located on the same spot where her grandmother’s house once stood.
the rapidly changing Valaoritou district. “This has always been a residential area, so its character is more likely to endure,” Konstantinos says, recalling visits to his grandmother here. “You really feel the city’s identity in this neighborhood.”
Babis of 157+173 also has deep ties to the area. “It was like a ghost town before, with mostly closed auto parts shops and no sidewalks. I sensed this could be the next artist hub, like my first studio on Ernestou Emprar Street 20 years ago. I’m even happier here now than I could have imagined, with a new studio and as part of a collective with a shared creative vision.”
Fashion designer Apostolos Katsimantos was new to the area when he opened his atelier Midnight Dinner
but quickly connected with its history. “This had been a bookstore, closed for years when I moved in,” he says. “When I took down the sign, I found it had been a tailor’s before.” His atelier retains the original terrazzo floors and storefront. Their DIY spaces preserve the district’s architectural character. ULURU’s corner studio, once the neighborhood “psilikadzidiko” (or convenience store), with floor-to-ceiling glazing, complements the minimalist aesthetic of Eirini Geronta’s Still Studio.
For decades, the area’s commercial spaces were abandoned; this creative influx is warmly welcomed. Thodoros Tsagalidis, the third generation running the family taverna Thodoros, is glad to see life return to these streets.
Florist Stefanos Delidis, who grew up here and opened his shop nearly 40 years ago, shares that sentiment: “This neighborhood deserves a new chapter.” The collective and the local community are closely connected. They dine at Thodoros; Konstantinos of Studio 21 sources flowers from Stefanos; and Nefeli uses Delidis’ orchids as subjects for her art.
Bringing positivity to the community was a main focus when the collective started meeting. The urban space lends itself to events, drawing new visitors to the district. Their first open studio night took place under a full strawberry moon in June, followed by a live performance by the walls. Mike created a map for the event, Nikos handled permits and Kostas arranged the band: “We wanted music that resonated with the older residents who’ve lived here all their lives.” Carmen Venti, a local band, captured the mood of old Thessaloniki with an unplugged set that brought people into the streets.
In late September, the streets filled again for an open house, with a grand piano set up in the small square. As leaves swirled in the autumn air, pianist Vassilis Varvaresos played a set that kept the otherwise lively crowd quiet.
A woman from the audience began singing “My Funny Valentine” and joined him at the piano, followed by other singers. At the end, Varvaresos shared reflections on beauty, connection and the collective’s evolving vision. His post about the event captured the spirit: “Visual, applied and fine arts. And music. And beers. And Schubert. And Brahms. And conversations. And a walk to the studios… And we create our own language because somehow Mozart and photography and art speak to us, not in living rooms…”
More events are already being planned. Nefeli and Nikos are organizing a show, which Mike will host. Other ideas include involving a broader community through an open call. “We’re a small, democratic collective, making it up as we go,” says Konstantinos. “Collaboration is essential at every level, not just here, but globally. It’s great to be part of that.”
“Our collective has a soul,” says Mimoza, “and this neighborhood is its body.”•
“VISUAL, APPLIED AND FINE ARTS. AND MUSIC ... AND CONVERSATIONS. AND A WALK TO THE STUDIOS … WE CREATE OUR OWN LANGUAGE BECAUSE SOMEHOW MOZART AND PHOTOGRAPHY AND ART SPEAK TO US, NOT IN LIVING ROOMS…”
• 157+173 Designers, Babis Papanikolaou Architecturaldesignandobjectsthatexplore questionsofform,scale,materialandmodes ofpersonalexpression.
• Midnight Dinner, Apostolos Katsimantos Adreamyapproachtocontemporarystreet fashionwithanostalgicappeal.
• FORMrelated, Eleni Papaevangelou and Konstantinos Theodoridis An architectural practicethatcollaboratescloselywithclients to realizetheirvisions.
• Magma Lab Creative Hub, Christos Kydros and Anthi Lekka Sculptorsworkinginceramics, creatingartobjectsanduniquedesignpieces andhostingworkshops
• ULURU, Simos Antoniadis Aceramics studio runbyanarchitect,whereformandtexture areexploredtocreatebothfunctionaland decorativepieces.
• Anoushe Jewelry, Anna Ntinopoulou Handcrafted, uniquejewelrypiecesinspiredbydiverse sources,fromcelestialbodiestothepunk movement,andallwithatalismanicappeal
• NefK Studio, Nefeli Kyriakou Afineartistworking inpainting,printmaking,streetart and installation.
• Nikos Iosif Anartistwhocreatesexpressive two-andthree-dimensionaltextileworks, oftenimbuedwithsentimentalmeaning.
• Absinth Tattoo, Mimoza Tattooartinspiredbythe formsandgeometriesofnature,ArtNouveau andArtDeco.Thestudioalsohostsguest artists,supportingThessaloniki’stattooculture
• Studio 21, Konstantinos Vattis Athird-generation photographerfocusingonunderwater photography,commercialworkandvisual storytelling.
•Kipos, Maria Megalopoulou Aspaceforseminars, workshopsandothereventsonavarietyof subjects–philosophy,literature,theaterand more–fosteringexpressionandcommunity.
• Still Studio, Eirini Geronta Interiorarchitecture thatemphasizesaestheticsandergonomics throughaminimalistapproach.
• That Long Black Cloud, Mike Rafail Aninterdisciplinarydesignstudioandcreative spacewhereideastakeshapeacrossvarious media,fromcementandpainttodigitalformats.
• Salty Moon Jewels, Athina Voudouri Jewelrymakingthatcombinestraditionaltechniques with modern aestheticsto create both classic andimaginativepieces.
• Matte Black, Dimitris Avgerinos and Christina Balouktsi Specializinginmuseum-quality printing,giclée,colormanagementandfine materialstobringimagesandobjectstolife.
• Ecolapsis, Konstantinos Kesidis Acreative incubatorwhereideasareexpressedfully across various media.
Standing on his balcony, Yannis Megas gazes out over the city he loves.
BY NENA DIMITRIOU PORTRAITS: KONSTANTINOS TSAKALIDIS
Collector Yannis Megas, who sought out texts and images connected to Thessaloniki wherever he went, has donated 90,000 historical paper artifacts to the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki.
WWHAT DRIVES A COLLECTOR’S passion? Is it the emotional connection sparked by holding a newly discovered piece? The aesthetic pleasure it provides? Or is it perhaps the potential for its value to grow with time? For Yannis Megas, a Thessaloniki native and civil engineer, the answer is a deep, personal connection to the history of his hometown. Over the years, he has amassed a remarkable collection, which he recently donated to the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, forever enriching the city’s cultural heritage.
Born and raised in Thessaloniki with Jewish roots on his mother’s side, Megas left his hometown in the early 1970s to pursue postgraduate studies in transportation and traffic engineering in London. It was there, while building a life with his British wife, that his unique Thessaloniki collection began, and it started in the most unexpected way. One Saturday morning at Camden Market, Megas’ gaze landed on a stall brimming with postcards. Amidst the colorful assortment, one particular card stood out to him – a haunting image of Thessaloniki in the aftermath of the great fire of 1917, a tragedy that consumed nearly 9,500 homes and reshaped the city’s landscape.
“Until that moment, I hadn’t realized the extent of the destruction – almost the entire city center had been leveled. That sparked my interest, and I bought three postcards depicting the aftermath of this catastrophe,” he tells me one October morning when we meet at his favorite café near the White Tower. Three cards from Thessaloniki quickly became ten, then twenty, and eventually an astounding 15,000. Many of these dated from WWI, when thousands of soldiers – British and French among them –passed through Thessaloniki. “Postcards were their only means of communication,” the collector explains.“I remember finding a French soldier’s entire correspondence, with postcards sent to his wife every day for 32 days. The postcards were numbered, each one describing his daily activities – never a word about the war itself. Through these cards, I was able to glimpse at the lives of so many people.” Wherever he traveled, Megas always searched for things connected to Thessaloniki. What began with postcards soon led to photographs, then to engravings – some dating back to the mid 1800s. Soon, he was scouring magazines from England, France, Germany and Russia, and eventually rare books, too. His remarkable collection spans a century, from 1850 to 1950, with a particular emphasis on the Ottoman era and the city’s history up to 1912, although it also includes items from as late as the 1980s.
Scenes of civil unrest in 1903, from a series of 25 postcards showing the disruptive actions of a group known as the Boatmen of
“I was only interested in Thessaloniki – nothing beyond it. Not even its surrounding areas,” he says. Collecting thousands of artifacts tied to the city’s history – from every corner of the globe, including Europe, New Zealand and Africa – became, in a way, his way of reconnecting with the city where he was born. Through his collection, he rediscovered his hometown, even while far away from it. What began as nostalgia soon turned into intellectual curiosity. The more he learned, the more he felt compelled to delve deeper into Thessaloniki’s identity. He meticulously cataloged each item in his collection, creating a digital archive that documented the type, date and theme of every artifact. For Megas, the process of collecting became a form of exploration, a way to piece together the fragmented history of his city; a passion that he pursues to this day.
“As an engineer, I had little connection to the literary world. There were so many things I didn’t know about Thessaloniki’s history. Collecting taught me so much – so much, in fact, that it eventually led me to writing. These postcards weren’t just pictures of the White Tower or the seafront. They were historical snapshots, capturing real events. They told stories,” he explains.
One such story became quite important to Megas. “In 1903, Bulgarian anarchists launched a series of terrorist attacks in Thessaloniki. They blew up a ship in the harbor, planted explosives in the Ottoman Bank, and caused widespread destruction. I came across a series of 25 postcards documenting these events. A professor friend of mine tried to discourage me from delving deeper into the subject. Undeterred, I went to the National Library of Sofia, where I uncovered a wealth of material about what had happened. Here in Greece, that story had been largely forgotten, likely overshadowed by the broader Ottoman narrative. That research eventually led me to publish the book
‘The Boatmen of Thessaloniki,’ named after the group.”
To date, he has written thirteen non-fiction books, which include “Kidnappings and Murders in Thessaloniki 1852–1913,” “The Downing of the Zeppelin (May 1916),” “The Allied Troops: The Babel of Nations,” and several others. For Megas, the period leading up to the city’s liberation in 1912 is crucial to understanding Thessaloniki’s evolution. Thessaloniki had been the cultural and economic center of the Balkans, but after it became part of Greece, it was suddenly a second-tier city just thirty kilometers from the border, losing much of its prominence.
Equally vital, he highlights, is the role of the city’s Jewish community. “My first book is called ‘Souvenir: Images of the Jewish Community, Salonika 1897-1917.’ It’s a bilingual book exploring the everyday life of Thessaloniki’s Jewish population. It covers everything from the trades people practiced and the homes they lived in to the religious events and the role of rabbis in the community, all brought to life with postcards from the era.”
Every postcard, engraving, photograph, or book in his collection was a gateway to a new historical discovery for him. “During a trip to Vienna, I visited an antique shop and came across a postcard written in code” Megas says. “Years later, I discovered a society in Germany dedicated to decoding encrypted messages. I sent them the postcard, and they translated it for me. The message itself was trivial, but that wasn’t the point – it was the journey of discovery that mattered.”
Megas’ latest book, soon to be published, concerns the diplomatic role that the city played from 1684 to 1912. “I was amazed to learn that the city had 25 consulates over that period,” he says. “I reached out to the foreign ministries and archives of all those countries. Almost all of them responded, sending material about the consuls, their biographies, and other details, so I began documenting their stories.”
THROUGH HIS COLLECTION, HE REDISCOVERED HIS HOMETOWN, EVEN WHILE FAR AWAY FROM IT. WHAT BEGAN AS NOSTALGIA SOON TURNED INTO INTELLECTUAL CURIOSITY.
A particularly treasured part of his collection is the photographic archive of Giorgos Lykidis, a Thessaloniki-based photographer who passed away in 1967, which he acquired from Lykidis’ heir. Lykidis captured iconic moments in Greek history, such as the battleship Averof and the Greek fleet entering Constantinople’s port in 1922. He also photographed Thessaloniki’s most renowned landmarks, its main streets and the frescoes adorning the interiors of its churches. Following the devastating earthquake of 1978, Megas donated some of Lykidis’ photos of frescoes to the Department of Modern Monuments. These became crucial reference material for restoration work in sites ranging from the Rotunda to the Church of the Aghioi Apostoli, helping preserve the city’s religious heritage for future generations.
For Megas, his work as a collector has always been deeply personal and has given his life a distinctive sense of purpose. “Documenting everything
takes time. Especially after retirement, I realized how important this collection has been in giving me purpose. I’ve never spent my days idling in coffeehouses. If I didn’t have this passion project, I don’t know what I would have done,” he says.
Megas’ collection transformed him into a writer and provided him full access to the city, both past and present. “In recent years, anyone writing about Thessaloniki reaches out to me for material, and I really enjoy that. My collection has always been open to everyone. There are collectors who keep their collections hidden – no one sees them, no one knows about them. Mine, on the other hand, has always been accessible.”
But does a collection ever truly reach completion? “I stopped acquiring new items after I donated the
“IN RECENT YEARS, ANYONE WRITING ABOUT THESSALONIKI REACHES OUT TO ME FOR MATERIAL, AND I REALLY ENJOY THAT. MY COLLECTION HAS ALWAYS BEEN OPEN TO EVERYONE.”
collection to the University. It was given to the Central Library, where there was adequate space for storage and enough staff to care for it. At first, I had my doubts about handing it over to Aristotle University. I didn’t want it to be broken apart – I wanted it preserved as a whole. But going with the University turned out to be, by far, the best decision I could’ve made. Along with my collection, we also donated the collection of the poet Dinos Christianopoulos, who was a relative of mine. We made that decision together before Dinos passed away.”
Since its arrival at the University in 2017, Megas’ collection – packed in seventy large boxes – has been carefully cataloged, and is being digitized by the University staff. That process is painstakingly meticulous. Every item must be properly identified before being
uploaded to the system, and that level of detail requires a significant investment of time and effort.
How does he feel now that the collection is no longer in his possession? “I’m very pleased because they’re doing an excellent job. I know that if I ever need anything, I’ll be able to find it immediately.” I press him further: “Don’t you miss having it at home?” “Not at all,” he replies firmly. “The collection was stored in a different apartment anyway. I sold that place when the collection went to the University.”•
→ThearchiveofYannisMegas isnowhousedintheCentralLibrary ofAristotleUniversityofThessaloniki and is accessible to both researchers andthegeneralpublic.Thedigital archivecanalsobeexploredonline atwww.lib.auth.gr.
For 20 years, Principal Club Theater has been Thessaloniki’s main venue for international touring bands and Greek music artists alike. For me, it’s also a family business.
BY AMBER CHARMEI
“Why would you move here from NYC?” It’s been over two decades, and I still get asked this a couple of times a week. The fact is that Thessaloniki never gave me a chance to miss the Big Apple. Growing up in a warehouse in TriBeCa in the ’80s and then doing A&R for our hardcore/punk/ noise record label Wreck-Age throughout the 1990s was close to perfect. But Thessaloniki has a similar creative energy. It’s known abroad for its Byzantine churches and the romantic Ano Poli, but for locals, these are just the backdrop to their modern lives. The city is thick with contemporary culture, with galleries, workshops and studios opening all the time. And concerts – there are lots of concerts. Thessaloniki has Greece’s largest university, but more than that, a love of music and nightlife runs bonedeep in this town, which was once known for its cafés chantants and cafés aman. A generation later, it became known for rebetiko, and a generation after that, for the genre of popular music known as entechno. It’s a cultured city that knows how to have a good time.
TTHIS MADE THESSALONIKI easy to love, and my husband Pavlos’ job helped with that. Just after we came here with our daughters, Charlene and Mei Mei, who were then six and two, he started handling the bookings at Mylos, a mill complex on the west side that Nikos Stefanidis had transformed into a multi-venue space. Concerts with Pavlos were, for me, the equivalent of an ethnic enclave in New York – a place to feel at home in a new land. Conventional middle-class neighborhood life in Greece in 1999 was more conservative and conformist than it is today, and that was a much bigger adjustment than the new country and new language.
When Stefanidis started thinking about a new place, he asked Pavlos to go in with him. The Principal, as it was already called, sounded unpromising; far from the center of town on the road to Chalkidiki, with no public transport access, it had so long stood abandoned that it had weeds growing inside. But it also had presence – a large round space with semi-circular staircases; a 16-metre-high wooden ceiling with thick beams; wrap-around balconies; and private boxes like an opera house. We’d left the record label in good hands and come to Greece without much of a plan, thinking of perhaps doing something completely different, but working in culture had been rewarding; we were familiar with the volatility – but also the emotional highs – of the music business, so it was easy to look past the weeds and everything else. That Easter, we grilled our lamb in the parking lot because our opening weekend was just five days away, and it was sold out. The paint was still wet when the doors opened. Since then, the club has moved three times: first to Mylos, then Fix, and finally back to Mylos.
As it turned out, club life and family life were surprisingly compatible. Most of Pavlos’ work hours were when the girls were already sleeping. I added the club shopping to the weekly routine, checking hospitality riders for upcoming shows and putting what we needed for the catering on my list for the laiki (the farmers’ market). Most children are not actively part of their parents’ work worlds unless the family has, say, a taverna or a farm. Principal Club Theater is like our farm –demanding, and with inconvenient hours. It dictates our family calendar, but it brings us all together a lot. This has always been the girls’ world, too; back in New York, all the adults they’d known were in bands. In time, they started working at the club. Not many 20-year-olds regularly stop for a gyros or drop in for a nightcap at the metal club Eightball with their dad at 3 am on their way home from work. That’s been nice.
Investing in culture is enormously risky. It’s great when ticket sales go well, but at the end of the night, it’s really about the event – the quality of the crowd and of the performers, and
the collective memory it creates. A successful concert is about much more than money. There are transcendent moments when the whole place becomes one, like when Sivert H ø yem and Madrugada give “Majesty” over to the crowd, or everyone joins in Joy Division’s “Love Will Tear Us Apart” with Nouvelle Vague – they’ve each played here close to ten times. Everyone singing “Ace of Spades” with Lemmy, and another time with Tricky, was memorable. The crowd was quiet, though, when China Forbes sang “Ta Paidia tou Pirea” with Pink Martini; they didn’t want to miss a word.
Nights like these are as much about the crowd as they are about the performers. Thessaloniki is a long-time favorite of touring bands. There’s no better audience to play for – they’re invested and well-informed. They are familiar with the bands’ histories and catalogues, and they understand the cultural context. It’s a crowd that shows a lot of love, and bands give it back. Some have a very close relationship with the city, coming back often over the years. Thievery Corporation played their first show in Europe in Thessaloniki, and they’ve returned a few times since – once at the harbor when they had to take a break mid-set for a thunderstorm; we were all drenched. They were here just recently for the Moni Lazariston festival, which Pavlos is also involved with, and it was one of the season’s highlights.
Working with people whose music you’ve always known is revealing. It takes a devotion to art and a generosity of character to be on the road for weeks at a time, giving so much of yourself night after night. Sometimes, the more famous the name, the simpler the list; they already know who they are. Jane Birkin was particularly classy and cool; she traveled with her dog, and for her dressing room, she just asked for sliced tomatoes with good olive oil (I brought our own from Crete). Robert Plant wanted to walk around the Ladadika and have a
gyros to go for dinner (the guy preparing it told Pavlos that the foreign guy he was serving looked exactly like Robert Plant; when he found out that was really who was in front of him, his hands were shaking so much he could barely wrap up the pita). Morrissey wanted something so simple for dinner that I cooked for him myself on a hotplate behind the bar.
Hosting the bands is always fun, especially those we’ve seen over the years and been out with after the shows. Bands enjoy Thessaloniki; our little city deserves its good reputation for nightlife and culture, and we’re fortunate to be
a part of that. We’re also fortunate in our own community; some of the people at the club have been working there for years, even from the very beginning. For us, family Christmas usually means hearing the Speakeasies’ Swing Band do “Santa Baby” at our annual holiday party. There’s no place we’d rather be; Principal Club Theater is a second home, a second family.•
• Principal Club Theater (at Mylos ) - 56 Andreou Georgiou, Thessaloniki principalclub.com
THERE HAVE BEEN SO MANY SPECIAL shows over the years that it’s hard to count, but a few do stand out, including Stereo MCs a couple of times. Tricky and Dub Pistols, Agnostic Front and Madball were special for us, as we had done a record with them back in New York. There was Manu Chao, Calexico, Pink Martini, Everlast, Tindersticks and Einstürzende Neubauten. France never disappoints, with Yann Tiersen, Zaz, Nouvelle Vague, Wax Tailor and Chinese Man. There was that really large Madrugada show at the PAOK arena. Massive Attack, Kaiser Chiefs, Isaac Hayes, Bauhaus, Pet Shop Boys, Faithless, Motörhead, Tuxedomoon, Hooverphonic, Killing Joke, Blind Guardian, Mulatu Astatke, Tiger Lillies, Saint Etienne, Puressence, Gotan Project, Morrissey, Tricky, Faithless, Red Snapper, Editors, Cinematic Orchestra, Sisters of Mercy, Kovacs and Monster Magnet all come to mind – these are in no particular order. Much of the Greek entechno scene has played at the club, too – Nikos Papazoglou, Sokratis Malamas, Eleftheria Arvanitaki, Alkinoos Ioannidis, Psarantonis, Foivos Delivorias, Thanassis Papakonstantinou, Evanthia Reboutsika, Maraveyas, Elli Paspala, Ludovikos and others. There’s been a lot of current Greek music across all popular genres, including Firewind (Gus G’s band) and VIC (Villagers of Ioannina City).
In northern Greece, a new generation of herb growers and producers is taking advantage of the region’s abundant natural resources while adhering to traditional practices, advocating for sustainable agriculture and creating products that benefit mind and body.
A blend of chamomile and mountain tea, the two most popular Greek winter infusion ingredients.
BY ISABELLA ZAMPETAKI
TTHE STREET VENDOR you might encounter at the corner of Tsimiski and Aristotelous in Thessaloniki knows precisely what he’s offering in that steaming cup: the perfect antidote to the Vardaris, the icy northern wind. The drink, known as salepi and made from the tubers of a type of wild orchid, is a reminder that herbal infusions are one of Greece’s most prized secrets and have been an integral part of Greek life for millennia.
From the foothills of the Pindus Mountains to the villages of Rhodope, the herbal traditions of Northern Greece have been passed down over generations for centuries. Local communities have long known the unique healing properties of the region’s endemic wild plants. From Sideritis, or mountain tea, famed for its ability to ward off winter illnesses, to St. John’s Wort, a panacea for a variety of conditions – dermatological, muscular and more – these herbs were more than just beverages; they were natural medicines that fortified health and helped people cope with the harsh conditions of their life. Today, a new generation of producers and farmers is getting back to basics, reconnecting with the earth and reviving ancient practices to reintroduce these herbs into domestic and worldwide markets. Here, we showcase five enterprises dedicated to the power of Greek herbs and busy creating innovative products from the bounty of the land.
The Holomontas forest is a lush, mountainous area in Halkidiki, home to nearly 2,000 herb species. This botanical wealth inspired the father of Stella and Konstantinos Papakonstantinou to begin harvesting and drying herbs decades ago. Today, three decades later, the siblings, together with Konstantinos’ wife, Zoe Vordou, continue this tradition. They cultivate 30 distinct herb varieties at an elevation of 870 meters. The high elevation plays a crucial role – plants grown at these heights are naturally richer in antioxidants, delivering a potency that reflects the purity and vitality of the landscape. At Holomon Organic Herbs, you’ll find everything from mountain tea and lavender to St. John’s Wort, rockrose, and a local variety of mint (Calamintha). Lesser-known herbs include coltsfoot, used for treating coughs, and bramble, recommended for hypertension. → holomon.gr
Another small organic herb farm is thriving in Galini, just 45 kilometers north of Thessaloniki. Michalis Georgaras and Anastasia Vasileiadou launched Aetheleon a decade ago, with oregano, a phenol-rich herb with antiviral characteristics, as their main product. “Oregano is an herb that international markets associate with Greece,” says Michalis. Today, 95% of Aetheleon’s production is exported to Germany, the UK, and the USA. One of their most unique offerings is an oil that combines extra virgin olive oil from Lesvos with a hint of potent oregano essential oil. This product is often used as a natural remedy, with many mothers giving their children a spoonful every day to protect against winter diseases. → aetheleon.com
More than 9O% of Aetheleon’s production is exported to Germany, the UK, and the US.
Nature’s Pharmacy, the family business of Spyros Nikolaidis, a third-generation pharmacist, offers herbal infusions, tinctures, oils, capsules, and homeopathic and galenic formulations created in their lab. The term “galenic,” named after the ancient physician Galen, refers to personalized remedies tailored to meet each patient’s specific needs. Spyros and his wife, Olga Akrivou, founded Physis Laboratory, which manufactures personal care and wellness products now available both online and in international stores. Their bestsellers include milk thistle, wild artichoke and samphire, whose antioxidant properties are used in facial creams. They also use Rhodiola rosea and safflower for their mood-boosting effects. The efficacy of their products has been confirmed through biochemical test results of customers who turned to herbal remedies for specific health issues. → physislaboratory.com
“Herbs are meant to be enjoyed, not just taken as medicine.” This is the philosophy of Kyveli Pantelakou and Vivi Panagiotidou, founders of Arritos, a small company that specializes in unique blends of Greek herbs. In their Thessaloniki workshop, they create innovative mixtures using organically grown herbs from selected producers across Greece. Popular blends include lemon verbena, mountain tea (known on Crete as “malotira”), mint and the aromatic peel of the Chios mandarin. They also pair geranium leaves with dried strawberry pieces and mix Chios mastic with linden, a calming and soothing herb. Their products are packaged in handmade cotton pouches inspired by the traditional way of storing herbs to prevent oxidation. → arritos.gr
The founders of Rhoeco – Haris Kazas, Katerina Chatziangelaki and Vagia Mitsiou – cater to international tastes, showcasing Greek herbs as flavorful, caffeine-free alternatives to traditional teas. For example, they suggest nettle as a substitute for green tea. Rhoeco works with organic farmers across northern Greece, from Olympus and Imathia to Amphipolis and the Pomak villages of Thrace. Their commitment to sustainability is reflected in their eco-friendly packaging, which includes a cup that also serves as a planter for the seed placed in the lid. → rhoeco.com
SOPHIA TRIANTOU, A CERTIFIED HERBALIST and tea sommelier, has explored many of Greece’s herb-growing and foraging regions. “Northern Greece is a rich botanical zone,” she says, “particularly around Mt Olympus in Pieria and Holomontas in Halkidiki, and includes notable organic farms all the way from Imathia to Rodopi.” Some herbs, she points out, are endemic to high elevations, where they flourish in their purest form. Among these, the mountain tea of Olympus stands out. “Our grandmothers used its infusion to treat colds, and modern research confirms its anti-inflammatory properties and digestive benefits.”
Sophia is a strong advocate for using herbs daily, not only in cooking but also in beauty routines. She even hosts three-day retreats on Mt Olympus, where participants are introduced to the properties of key Greek herbs. During these retreats, guests prepare foods using these herbs, such as rosemary-infused bread and vegetable meatballs seasoned with parsley and mint, and they also make homemade skincare products. Regarding beauty products, Sophia mentions, among other things, the intense regenerative action of oats; for an even more radiant glow, they can be used as a base when making a chamomile face mask.
→ For more information on Sophia’s upcoming retreats, visit www.sofiatriantou.gr
Sophia Triantou, a certified herbalist and tea sommelier, hosts retreats where participants cook with herbs and create homemade skincare products.
• For colds: Thyme (Thymus vulgaris L.), Mountain Tea (Sideritis spp.), Sage (Salvia officinalis L.)
• For coughs: Dittany of Crete (Origanum dictamnus L.), Coltsfoot (Tussilago farfara L.), European Elder (Sambucus nigra L.)
• For digestive issues: Peppermint (Mentha piperita L.), Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla L.), Linden (Tilia spp.)
• For anxiety and insomnia: Valerian (Valeriana officinalis L.), Passionflower (Passiflora incarnata L.), Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis L.), Chamomile
• For mood enhancement: Garden root or Roseroot (Rhodiola rosea L.)
We asked eight of Thessaloniki’s most celebrated chefs to share their go-to dining spots – places where flavor, comfort and a warm welcome come together to create unforgettable experiences.
BY NENA DIMITRIOU AND GEORGIA PAPASTAMOU
Thessaloniki has long been celebrated for its rich culinary heritage and its reputation for offering exceptional, affordable food. From traditional tavernas to innovative restaurants pushing the boundaries of creative cuisine, the city’s vibrant food scene effortlessly blends the classic with the contemporary, catering to every taste. But when the chefs who shape Thessaloniki’s gastronomy take a break from their own kitchens, where do they go to satisfy their cravings?
RESPECTED AMONG his peers for his culinary expertise and work ethic, Sotiris Evangelou works wonders at Salonika, the flagship restaurant of the Makedonia Palace Hotel (2 Megalou Alexandrou). His menu pays homage to Greek cuisine with dishes such as dolmades (stuffed cabbage), slow-roasted lamb, and an enticing array of spit-roasted meats. For those seeking something more adventurous, the restaurant also offers a degustation menu with international influences.
When Evangelou isn’t orchestrating culinary masterpieces in his own kitchen, he looks to the city’s vibrant food scene for inspiration. One of his favorite haunts is Palia Athina (24 Imvrou, Kato Toumpa), a cozy, meatfocused restaurant tucked away in an unassuming neighborhood. With an intimate, speakeasy-like atmosphere, it’s a gem – the legendary wine cellar is a particular draw. Known for its impeccably grilled meat cuts, the establishment also has a stellar wine collection, with foreign European labels –particularly Italian classics and rare super Tuscans – alongside aged Greek reds from Macedonian vineyards. “It’s rare to find such a treasure trove in a taverna.” says Evangelou, a devoted regular. For seafood, the chef chooses Psaras (7 Mitropolitou Gennadiou), where they serve up wonderful squid and shellfish. For a more casual experience, Evangelou often heads to Stou Mitsou (11 Vlali) in the bustling Kapani Market. This lively spot serves tsipouro and seasonal meze in an ambiance as vibrant as the market. Another of his hangouts is Tria Gourounakia (7 Kapodistriou), a cozy spot where heartwarming Greek comfort food is served with genuine hospitality. And when the mood calls for a leisurely evening with friends, his choice is Methi (65 Ethnikis Antistaseos, Kalamaria), a wine bar and bistro known for inventive small plates paired with a thoughtfully curated wine list.
IN 2017, MANOLIS PAPOUTSAKIS
brought a taste of his Cretan heritage to Thessaloniki with Charoupi (4 Doxis), a restaurant that seamlessly blends tradition with modern creativity. Charoupi quickly became a favorite among locals and visitors, cementing its place in the city’s vibrant dining scene. More recently, he expanded his culinary ventures with Deka Trapezia (4 Stratigou Kallari), a Greek meze eatery inspired by the convivial charm of the tapas bar tradition.
For fresh small fish and ouzo meze, Papoutsakis recommends Iordanis (6 Stadiou) in the Polichni area, a neighborhood slightly off the beaten path. This historic restaurant specializes in unpretentious Greek dishes that highlight the authenticity of the flavors. “When we want to feel truly pampered, we visit Sotiris Evangelou at Salonika for excellent Greek cuisine with a touch of indulgence,” he adds.
Moldee (8 Mitropolitou Iosif) holds a special place in his heart. “This beautiful barrestaurant captivates me with its cosmopolitan vibe and warm ambiance,” Papoutsakis says. “The menu strikes the perfect balance between comfort and sophistication.”
YIANNIS LOUKAKIS WAS at the forefront of Thessaloniki’s culinary transformation around a decade ago, leading a new wave of chefs who boosted the city’s dining scene by exploiting local food resources to their fullest. Known for his distinctive style, Loukakis swears by top-quality ingredients and exceptional olive oil, which to him is the finest sauce for any dish.
He earned widespread recognition for reintroducing forgotten ingredients into his recipes, creating flavor combinations that were at first considered unconventional, and employing minimal processing in his cooking. Today, he runs two of Thessaloniki’s most beloved dining establishments: Mourga (12 Christopoulou), offering a fish-focused menu, and Sintrofi (7 Doxis), where meats and hearty, stove-top cooking take center stage.
For his own meals, Loukakis often visits Iliopetra (5 Eschilou), helmed by the talented chef Giorgos Zannakis. Here, the menu changes daily and features strictly seasonal ingredients. Dishes such as slow-cooked meat stews and fresh salads with root vegetables epitomize the restaurant’s soulful approach to cooking.
SOKRATIS BELIGIANNIS, the low-profile chef-patron of Maitr & Margarita, and his life partner Roi Apoikou have created one of Thessaloniki’s top restaurants, showcasing a modern approach to northern Greek cuisine with thoughtful, creative touches.
For a quasi-nostalgic experience, they often visit Doxa (25 Apostolou Pavlou), a traditional taverna serving comfort food such as succulent liver and other classic Greek favorites. “We enjoy restaurant-quality food, but we’re equally drawn to Thessaloniki’s famous street-food scene,” they add. Among their favorites are the handmade gyros at Mimis (126 Aghiou Dimitriou) and the exceptional pirozhki at the tiny shop Agapi (21 Halkeon), which offers over ten varieties of these stuffed dough delicacies, both savory and sweet.
For dairy-based treats, Beligiannis turns to Dorkada (66 Kassandrou), a classic dairy shop that serves creamy custards and velvety yogurt reminiscent of another era. When he’s in the mood for dessert, he heads to Karaiskos (7 Aghiou Nikolaou) for their rich, decadent chocolate pie, or to Nikiforou (54 Eleftheriou Venizelou) for galaktoboureko – a traditional Greek dessert made with layers of flaky phyllo pastry filled with semolina custard, all soaked in a fragrant syrup. “It’s the perfect balance of creamy, crisp, and sweet,” he notes.
WITH PALESTINIAN ROOTS from his father’s side and a Thessalonian mother, Vasilis Chamam is one of Greece’s most talented young chefs. He’s the creative force behind the buzzworthy Estet (78 Olympou), a café that’s quickly become a crowd favorite, thanks to its cozy atmosphere and scrumptious sandwiches.
When he’s not in his own kitchen, Chamam often heads to Sintrofi (7 Doxis). where he grabs a seat at the counter by the window and enjoys a glass of local wine or tsipouro paired with thoughtfully crafted small plates that highlight the finest Thessaloniki ingredients. For a more relaxed outing, he meets friends at Odysseia (11 Kastritsiou), a charming traditional café. The limited but carefully curated menu features dishes such as cold cuts with handmade Russian salad, spiced soutzoukakia (Greek-style spiced meatballs cooked in a rich tomato sauce) or chickpeas – all perfectly paired with a cold beer or tsipouro.
A SYMBOL OF THESSALONIKI’ s culinary heritage, Olympos Naoussa (5 Nikis) reopened after three decades to offer creative Greek cuisine in a nostalgic setting. The restaurant’s Belle Époque ambiance provides the perfect backdrop for executive chef Dimitris Tasioulas to reimagine classic dishes, adding his contemporary flair to timeless recipes. When dining out, Tasioulas gravitates toward establishments with deep roots in the city’s gastronomic history. In winter, he heads to Nea Folia (4 Aristomenous), tucked away in the Upper Town (Ano Poli), far from the tourist trail. He loves the warm, inviting atmosphere and what he calls “generous Thessaloniki cooking.” His favorite dish? The pappardelle, which comes in two irresistible versions: rich rooster ragu, and tender braised beef in tomato sauce, both served in large portions for sharing.
HIS IS A NAME synonymous with top-tier seafood in Thessaloniki. Asterios Sousouras’ restaurant Trizoni Exclusive (1 Doxis & Salaminos) has become a culinary landmark, reflecting the chef’s unique expertise as a fisherman who knows how to source the freshest ingredients. At Trizoni Exclusive, he’s redefined seafood dining with imaginative dishes such as ceviches, tartares, stuffed dolmades, and seafood risottos, all crafted with the finest fresh ingredients. Now Sousouras is set to launch a new project: a seafood street-food venue in a prime spot on Aristotelous Square. The menu will include approachable yet flavorful options like fish croquettes, seafood salads, and fish burgers, aiming to bring gourmet seafood to casual dining.
In his rare moments of free time, Sousouras enjoys visiting Armenonville (102 Mitropoleos) for its iconic dessert – a rich parfait cream layered with crispy meringues and caramelized almonds. He often wraps up his day with a drink at Thermaikos (21 Nikis), a historic bar renowned for its lively atmosphere, great music and breathtaking sea views.
IN BELGIUM, A COUNTRY famed for its chocolate culture and home to thousands of chocolatiers, Thessaloniki native Mina Apostolidis has established a reputation for crafting exquisite creations, many infused with Mediterranean influences. Whenever she returns to her hometown, she makes a point of visiting Elenidis (13 Dimitriou Gounari) for its legendary Trigona Panoramatos –crisp, syrup-soaked filo triangles filled to order with velvety custard.
Her breakfast of choice often includes a handmade pie from Pites Resiniotou (12 Kastritsiou) or a handful of Kavala almonds and a few Kymi figs from Charilaos (24 Vatikiotou), Thessaloniki’s renowned source for nuts and dried fruits.
Apostolidis also recommends taking the 30-minute trip outside the city to Kapetan Fourtounas (55 Kountouriotou, Neoi Epivates), a charming seaside restaurant. The menu here features fresh fish, smoked mackerel, creamy white taramas (fish roe), and golden fried zucchini paired with a flavorful skordalia (garlic dip). Some of Apostolidis’ signature chocolates can be found at Olicatessen in the Modiano Market, alongside carefully curated products from small-scale Greek artisans.
This storied rarity, grown nearly exclusively in one small region and still relatively scarce there, appears to be coming into its own.
BY AMBER CHARMEI
PAIKO , in a quiet corner of Macedonia, there’s a really fine town for wine. Goumenissa has a lot going for it: sunny days with cool nights in summer that let the grapes rest; clay-rich soil; and slopes caressed by gentle breezes. There’s a long tradition of winegrowing here, reinforced by the arrival of Greeks from Eastern Rumelia with their own strong winemaking heritage. Their Feast of St. Tryphon, patron saint of the vine, is a highlight of the cultural and religious calendar. Tradition is also central to the PDO; the regulations set forth by the Department of Agriculture require that the grapes be tended in a certain way prior to harvest.
The other thing central to the PDO is the local grape Negoska, a relatively rare variety that makes up perhaps a little more than a tenth of the total grapes grown in the area. Nonetheless, it’s notable. Negoska has long had its admirers, including the many French soldiers posted here in WWI, honored in the inscription on the fountain in Goumenissa’s main square that reads “Passager, souviens-toi le soldat français.” With its deep color, higher alcohol content, and softer tannins, Negoska is said to have been the soldiers’ favorite.
MANY GOUMENISSA REDS INCLUDE NEGOSKA. WITH ITS THICK, POLYPHENOL-RICH SKIN, IT HAS MUCH TO CONTRIBUTE: A DEPTH OF COLOR, PLEASING RED FRUITS, AND PLENTY OF TANNINS.
Xinomavro and Negoska share a story, even though the former is well known, starring in the PDOs of Naoussa, Amyntaio, Rapsani and Goumenissa, while the latter features only in Goumenissa’s PDO zone, the smallest of the four. Some believe that before the names “Xinomavro” and “Negoska” took hold, they were both referred to as “Popolka.” According to this theory, Xinomavro was Xini (“Sour”) Popolka, while Negoska was Glykia (“Sweet”) Popolka, reflecting how the grapes taste when eaten straight from the vine. This is not a certainty, however, and nor is the origin of the modern name for the grape. Although Negoska is exclusive to Goumennissa’s PDO zone, many say it’s named after Naoussa, which was once known as “Nea Augusta” –“Negusha” to their Slavic neighbors. (If so, that means the grape took off in Goumenissa but faded into obscurity in its native town.) Periklis Tatsis suggests another possibility: “Some men of my grandfather’s generation were at the winery having tsipouro and meze, and reminiscing, telling stories they had heard as kids about the days before the first world war, before the phylloxera, when brokers from France would come to buy wine in bulk. They called these brokers ‘Negotia,’ a Greek version of the French word ‘négociateur.’ With its deep color and softer tannins, Glykia Popolka was their favorite. They paid a premium to have it vinted separately: Negoska, the choice of the Negotia.”
Besides once sharing the name Popolka, the two varieties share complexity and durability, as both age well. Periklis Tatsis describes Negoska as a sibling of Xinomavro. But that deep shade of ruby sets it apart; Xinomavro, despite its name meaning “Sour black,” is not rich in color. They’re siblings in taste, too, but while the
classic Xinomavro profile has notes of tomato, olive and chocolate, Negoska presents a lot like it looks: full of ripe red fruits such as black cherries and berries. Its lower acidity poses a challenge; it needs finessing to bring out its liveliness. On the other hand, its very workable tannins are a plus. Tatsis describes Negoska’s tannins as “rounder,” illustrating the tannins in Xinomavro with a sharp peak (in The Wines of Greece, Konstantinos Lazarakis MW describes the tannins in Xinomavro as “angular”), and, for comparison, Merlot’s with a gentle curve. (Of course, flavor characteristics are subjective, so you won’t know what you think until you try the wine yourself).
Besides the PDO wines, many other Goumenissa reds include Negoska. With its thick, polyphenol-rich skin, it has much to contribute. The depth of color, pleasing red fruits
and plentiful tannins are all easily distinguished in the glass, especially when comparing wines; a Goumenissa PDO (Xinomavro blended with a minimum of 20% Negoska) is generally rounder than a Naoussa PDO (100% Xinomavro). Negoska’s lower acidity and tannins make it a fine complement to Xinomavro. “It has a big personality,” says Tatsis.
The brothers Stergios and Periklis Tatsis felt the grape could stand on its own and produced their first single-varietal Negoska in 2007. Ten years later, they made Old Roots Negoska, using grapes exclusively from vines that were 70 to 100 years old. Vasilis Tsaktsarlis of Mikro Ktima Titos makes an elegant 100% Negoska rosé, whose notes of red fruits are complemented
by floral aromas. Ktima Aidarini has a single varietal, unfiltered, wild ferment Negoska from the 2017 vintage (bottled three years later) called Si-La-Vie, which complements their Si-La-Vie Xinomavro. In 2018, Chatzivariti Estate introduced two single-variety Negoska reds.
According to Chloi Chatzivariti, “you have this strong tannic level, but you don’t have the freshness of the acidity that can balance the effect of the tannins, the astringency.” As a result, she dealt with the grape’s characteristics in two ways: she blended a rosé from grapes harvested early to retain some acidity with a red wine made from later harvest grapes for the wild fermented, unfiltered Spin; for her Negoska Carbonic, she employed anaerobic maceration to bring forth red fruit aromas such as sun-dried strawberries, as well as notes of warm spices.
It’s an agreeable grape in the vineyard. Oenologist Maria Tatsis, raised among these vines, tells us why: “Negoska is fragile at the flowering stage, very sensitive to rain, but sturdy after that and resistant to most diseases. Shoot thinning and leaf removal are both quick work, and the comparatively large bunches make for an easy harvest. The grapes are loose in the bunch, so they’re all at a similar stage of ripeness. Moreover, because there’s less fruit, the vine can offer more concentrated nourishment, resulting in excellent flavor and character.”
Maria opens a bottle of their 2017 Negoska and swirls it in the glass before having a look. Its legs – poetically known as “tears” in Greek – indicate the alcohol content; at 13.5%, it hits the nose with the aroma of red fruits. She mentions how well the wine works with food, holding up to rich meat dishes
NEGOSKA, WHICH HAS MANY FINE QUALITIES, “...IS CENTRAL TO GOUMENISSA’S UNIQUE IDENTITY.”
and cheeses. It also works nicely on its own, opening up considerably after 20 minutes or so. The tannins soften, revealing its complexity. The finish is pleasing and long. The grape has many fine qualities. “But it’s more than that,” says Maria. “Negoska is central to Goumenissa’s unique identity.”
With each of the wineries that makes a PDO Goumenissa offering a single varietal Negoska – or sometimes more – coming across a bottle these days is easier than ever. Goumenissa’s wine community is increasingly interested in giving voice to its signature grape. “This will be a focus for me; Negoska is our future,” says oenologist Fotini Aidarini, of the new generation at Ktima Aidarini. “It’s what makes us special, all of us in Goumenissa, together.”•
WWE HAD ALREADY CHOSEN the place for this summer’s bicycle tour in October of last year. Gregoris Papakanderakis of our Saints cycling team was once again in charge of the planning, and this time he was focusing on Central Macedonia. The plan also included a mountain crossing into Bulgaria. Following last year’s Pindos trip, this year promised more kilometers but less elevation gain. So, around lunchtime, and in keeping with our tradition of starting on the summer solstice, we loaded the bikes onto Gregoris’ roof rack and set off for Thessaloniki, our spirits lifted by each other’s company and a shared sense of adventure.
We took a commemorative photo early in the morning before cycling down the Axios River. Our first destination was Aspros, a village where many storks build their nests. We headed northwest and encountered the first hills near Axioupoli. In Fanos, we stopped in a small park, and a wasp stung me as as I drank from a water fountain. Fortunately, our portable first-aid kit always contains antihistamines and cortisone. One of our team members, Panagiotis, is a doctor, so
we don’t have to worry such minor things. We simply waited half an hour in case of an allergic reaction and then continued through the forest, the sun already high in the sky.
A large sign welcomed us to Skra. In 1918, during WWI, the Greek army fought heroically to capture fortified Bulgarian positions on a hill of the same name. There’s a museum dedicated to the battle in the village. That day, Weekenders were finishing their dinners at tavernas on a square where music blended with the hum of cicadas. We continued to Lake Skra, a few kilometers from the village. Hidden in the forest, it’s fed by crystal clear waters, but taking a dip seemed unwise because the water was freezing. While there’s not enough water for the waterfalls in October, the smooth rocks testify to their presence at other times. The steep descent to the lake turned into an exhausting if brief uphill ride on the way back. This time, we stopped in the village to eat and to wait for the midday heat to subside.
From Skra, the road works its way up through oak forests interspersed with fields full of cherry trees laden with ripe fruit, ready to be picked. Approaching Archangelos, we paused at a cherry processing plant, where we were warmly welcomed and able to refill our water bottles. As the sun sank, the road ascended to a plateau with wheat fields amidst the woodlands. We reached Livadia at nightfall and switched on our lights. A few more turns took us into a thick forest filled with thousands of fireflies, which illuminated our way to Goumenissa, turning our ride into a truly magical experience.
A FEW MORE TURNS TOOK US INTO A THICK FOREST FILLED WITH THOUSANDS OF FIREFLIES, WHICH ILLUMINATED OUR WAY TO GOUMENISSA, TURNING OUR RIDE INTO A TRULY MAGICAL EXPERIENCE.
At dawn the next day, we made our descent to Polykastro, where we stopped for sandwiches and coffee. Continuing on, we passed through gentle hills where harvested fields gave way to sunflower crops, all facing the same direction like a concert audience. We passed Platania and Pontoiraklia, skirting the border wiht North Macedonia, before reaching Metamorfosi. A pack of stray dogs jumped in front of us, barking, but the water pistol I’d brought along warded them off. From Iriniko, we detoured to Korona for a water resupply. In the café, locals lamented the abandoned border villages and the lack of young people. We arrived at Akritas after taking the only unpaved border road we came across on our journey. Our route then climbed through fields before curving downwards as Doirani appeared on the horizon. Here, the border with North Macedonia is marked by pillars and a large flag. We passed the customs office and proceeded parallel to the lake.
We left the main road for a dirt path leading to the shore, riding carefully to avoid sinking into the mud. A brief detour to the café A Thousand Trees gave us a chance to rest beneath the plane trees before continuing at a brisk pace along a flat, busy route. Under the blazing sun, we turned toward the village of Kerkini, near the lake that bears its name.
Home to many bird species, this area is ideal for bird watching and boat rides, thanks in large to its unique ecosystem. It became well known as a main location for Theo Angelopoulos’ film “The Weeping Meadow”. We tried delicious specialties made from local buffalo in the courtyard of the “Eco-Tourist” guesthouse and spentthe afternoon birdwatching from the benches at the small harbor. Once it cooled down, we got back on the bikes and ended the day in Agistro, a village famous for its baths, which promote health and offer relief from rheumatic disorders and other ailments.
Early next morning, we descended to the border and entered Bulgaria. The road here is lined with shops and casinos; in the opposite direction, a queue of cars waited to cross into Greece. We left the main road at Chuchuligovo and took a country road through villages whose charm was distinctly Balkan. We stopped for coffee in Katuntsi before continuing along a wooded riverbed, climbing towards the dam at Gorno Spanchevo. This marked the beginning of a long ascent. Here, the forest thins out into shrubland, providing little shade. Although the road was busy, it was not narrow enough to be dangerous. At the Pirin intersection, there is a spring. From here, the shade provided by the forest, and the lower
left: Sampling some wild cherry plums near Fanos. Above: The idyllic but icy lake at Skra. Bottom left: Taking it slow in the late afternoon on the approach to Livadia.
temperatures combined to make cycling less taxing. Having already covered 50 kilometers, we stopped at the last spring for a rest. It is a popular spot; there were drivers getting water, a group of riders whose horses were quenching their thirst, and a pair of Greek motorcyclists. The last five kilometers to the highest point at Popovi Livadi (1420 meters) were particularly enjoyable, with spectacular mountain vistas. We took a photo of the statue of Gotse Delchev, a Bulgarian hero, before starting our descent through the forested slopes. Before long, we arrived at level ground, and the heat returned.
We arrived at Ano Nevrokopi (also known as Gotse Delchev, named for the hero) around 4:00 p.m., and it was hot. An air-conditioned grocery store provided welcome refuge, and we left
it reluctantly, heading out of town in a line along the busy road. An hour and a half later, we were at the Exochi border crossing, where the border guards offered us water. We eventually reached Kato Nevrokopi in the late afternoon. Further down, at the Volakas junction, fatigue set in as we realized we still had 9 kilometers to go. The final blow came in the shape of a sign indicating a 10% upward gradient. I dismounted, pushed the bike, remounted and repeated this process several times as night fell.
Climbing the switchbacks, the large scars of the Volakas quarries became visible on the mountain. We encountered a few herds and readied the water pistol for whatever sheepdogs we might find, but none showed. Late at night, we finally reached the first houses in Volakas.
After that long day, we needed some extra rest and had a late breakfast in the square before taking the road to Drama; traffic was bad and the exhaust fumes were, too. We rested in the large, treefilled square of the city. However, the morning delay, the coffee in the shade, and the ice cream we enjoyed there set us back, and as we headed out into the plain, the midday temperatures were already rising. We took a break in a park in Mavrolefki before continuing.
The oppressive heat forced us to stop every 10 kilometers, first at a gas station and later at a bus stop. At 40 degrees Celsius, cycling becomes dangerous, even though we kept hydrated with water and sports drinks. In the afternoon, when we reached Amphipolis, we collapsed under that town’s giant lion statue, hoping to draw some of its strength. The final coastal kilometers to Asprovalta were a breeze. Before heading to the hotel, we went straight to the beach, where a swim instantly relieved the day’s strain.
Rising while the town still slept, we ate local cheese pies and then, at the first rays of sunlight, cycled towards Olympiada. The narrow, winding route is demanding, as the vegetation often obscures the curves ahead. As we climbed, the forest became more impressive. Everything seemed idyllic, except for the insects. Wasps attacked us whenever we stopped, and gnats swarmed us on the sluggish uphill stretches. We had to ride one-handed while swatting them away to keep them out of our noses and eyes. I found a spring, but it was crawling with wasps, so I just took a photo, not a drink. This challenging experience only ended two hours later, just before the descent began.
We rolled down to picturesque Neochori for coffee and an excellent herb pie before buying fruit from a traveling grocer to load up on vitamins. We continued past Palaiochori
and Arnaia, then turned left into the heart of Holomontas. The hills became steeper, but we were enchanted by the alternating forests of pines, oaks, firs, and beeches. We were in the University Forest of Taxiarchis, a research area for students and a destination for nature lovers. Seventy percent of Greece’s Christmas trees are grown here, feeding the local economy. The views of Halkidiki’s “legs” from the summit of Holomontas were amazing. We descended towards Taxiarchis and Vrastama, passing Vatopedi before entering the crowded route to Metamorfosi, a route requiring extra caution, especially during the summer when visitors are on the move.
After five days of riding, 634 kilometers and 8,900 meters’ variation in elevation, the trip ended with a dive into the cool waters of Halkidiki and left us with a sense of adventure from this unforgettable experience, the end of which only marked the start of the countdown to our next bicycle excursion.•
• To Kati Allo Taverna (Skra, Tel. (+30) 23430.251.00): Offers simple yet delicious dishes in a cozy atmosphere.
• Zen Café (Polykastro, Tel. (+30) 23430.220.74): Known for its original snacks range of coffees. It’s the perfect place for a quick bite.
• Oikoperiigitis Restaurant (Kerkini, Tel. (+30) 23270.414.50): Serves water buffalo dishes and other local cuisine in a charming setting.
• Mylos (Volakas, Tel. (+30) 25230.239.90): Offers home-cooked food and excellent service.
• Artissimo Bakery (Asprovalta, Tel. (+30) 23970.223.10): Is known for its delicious handmade cheese pies.
Top: Looking for shade at Aghia Varvara Park in Drama. Bottom left: The amazing pastry shop Dinos in Drama. Bottom right: The iconic Lion of Amphipolis.
• Fileto Restaurant (Drama, Tel. (+30) 25211.061.00): Provides excellent food in an elegant environment.
• Dinos Pâtisserie (Drama, Tel. (+30) 25210.341.84): Offers wonderful sweets.
• Hotel Dimosthenis (Goumenissa, Tel. (+30) 23430.413.02)
• Oikoperiigitis (Kerkini, Tel. Tel. (+30) 23270.414.50)
• Hotel Agkistro (Agkistro, Tel. (+30) 23230.285.18)
• Marilia (Volakas, Tel. (+30) 25210.207.63)
*Thanks to Gavrilos Georgiadis and the Criterium store (Tel. (+30) 210.285.5210) for both their cycling equipment and advice.
Aigai’s newly restored Macedonian palace represents a magnificent contribution to Greek cultural heritage, but stirs new questions about Philip II, one of ancient Greece’s most colorful but least-understood kings.
BY
View to the east from the palace’s central courtyard. Wide walkways and finely carved new stonework enhance the experience of present-day visitors.
Mystery … and a love of stories: the two things that probably draw most of us to visit and explore ancient archaeological sites and other historical spots. From its earliest days, archaeology has been driven by these two abiding human interests. Greece, with all its great archaeological sites – Mycenae, Knossos, Delphi, Olympia, the Athenian Acropolis and so many more –is a land filled with historical mysteries, myths and heroic stories. Today, there is a new great site not to be missed that ranks right up there with the other A-listers: ancient Aigai, located in the village of Vergina southwest of Thessaloniki. Not only does it have a large new museum that offers a completely fresh perspective on the museum experience, but Aigai’s newly restored Macedonian palace – now attributed to Philip II, father of Alexander the Great – just reopened last summer, allowing the public to stroll through and experience firsthand its majestic, age-old ceremonial spaces.
Here in ancient Macedonia’s lush heartland near Veria, the “Gardens of Midas,” influential historical figures were born and raised – or converged from afar – and reached out to impact the world, leaving their mark even on our own present-day world. Philip, Alexander, Cassander, Aristotle, Euripides, Eurydice, Olympia: these kings, philosophers, playwrights and powerful queens all walked the palace halls and streets of Aigai and nearby Pella, the two seats of Macedonian royal authority, where today archaeologists, museologists and restorers have created an extraordinary constellation of historical, visitor-friendly destinations that shed new light on northern Greece’s fascinating past. The brightest star in this Macedonian “Milky Way” is Aigai.
Since Greek archaeologist Manolis Andronikos first identified Philip II’s tomb at Aigai in 1977, Vergina has become a focal point for the study of Macedonian history; a center of research frequented by scholars from Greece and around the world. At the same time, members of the public have been increasingly welcomed through a series of major infrastructure projects or other cultural initiatives: the establishment of the Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai (1997), the Byzantine Museum of Veria (2002), a visitors’ center at the Nymphaeum of Mieza (2006) and the new Museum of Pella (2010); improvements made to the Archaeological Museum of Veria (2020-2021);
greater accessibility provided to Macedonian tombs at Lefkadia; and, most recently, the creation of Aigai’s Polycentric Museum (opened 2023) and the extensive reinvestigation and restoration of its palace (2007-2024).
The commanding position of the royal palace at Aigai, overlooking the ancient city (and modern Vergina) from its southern edge, clearly evokes a sense of authority. Such a position would have been a natural choice for the monarchs of ancient Macedonia. But who lived here, and who first built a palace on this spot? Was the palace we see today the first one, or the last? The date of the building and the history of the site’s occupation are primary questions for archaeologists. For many decades, the palace at Vergina was believed to be Hellenistic in date, erected after Philip II and Alexander. Evidence for this was a coin of Lysimachus, king of Macedonia from 306 BC, discovered among the palace’s ruins. Situated apparently in the countryside, the building was also said – at a time when the location of ancient Aigai remained uncertain, with some historians even placing it at Edessa – to have been a remote “summer palace,” secondary in rank and function to the already familiar royal seat at Pella. Today, new excavations, led by archaeologist and former director of the Imathia Ephorate of Antiquities Angeliki Kottaridi, have identified the founder of Aigai’s palace as Philip II, in the years before his death in 336 BC, based on ceramic, architectural and iconographic evidence.
The earliest excavations of the Aigai palace were conducted by French archaeologist Léon Heuzey in 1861. More scientific investigations were launched by Aristotle University of Thessaloniki professor Konstantinos Romaios in 1937. After WWII, studies of the site
continued under his colleagues and students, including Andronikos, until 1975, by which time the palace’s entire layout had been revealed. Regrettably, in one of the many mysteries still enshrouding Aigai, Kottaridi reports that few detailed records from these important excavations appear to exist, meaning the 2007 reinvestigation of the palace had to proceed essentially from scratch.
To experience Aigai’s restored palace, visitors should be prepared for a walk. Ascending from Vergina, one passes the Sanctuary of Eukleia (goddess of glory and good repute), where votive statues with inscribed bases were once erected by Queen Eurydice, wife of Amyntas III and mother of Philip II. The small theater in which Philip was ultimately assassinated by a disgruntled male lover in 336 BC lies just below the crown of the hill. Continuing upward to the palace’s east-side entrance, rows of standing Doric columns (more than 20) gradually fill the skyline. Equally impressive is the sheer amount of gleaming new stone evident in the restored foundations and walls, as well as the excellent craftsmanship of the stone-carving, and the seamless joining of new architectural additions to fragmentary original members. Everything in the palace appears meticulously prepared, presented and welcoming, with well-constructed walkways and steps; “windows” left through new pavements to allow the underlying ancient structure to be viewed; large, painstakingly reconstructed pebble-mosaic floors; and 35 original or newly crafted monumental marble thresholds.
Following the palace’s latest excavations, the building can be seen in a new light. Diagnostic red-figure and black-glazed pottery, according to Kottaridi, dates its foundations after about 350 BC, while its function was strictly
Pebble mosaic from the tripartite dining suite on the south side of the palace, with floral motifs and female figures similar to those found in South Italian vase painting; 350-325 BC.
as a ceremonial banqueting center and reception hall – not as a royal residence. Moreover, Kottaridi reports, it had a “brilliant architect,” whose daring, innovative design “opened new paths” in the Greco-Roman world for future palatial, public and domestic architecture.
The former splendor of Philip II’s palace is reflected in the ornate, colorful facades of Macedonian tombs that seem to have copied its style, particularly the Tomb of Judgement (late 4th century BC) near Lefkadia. While its column drums were of ordinary poros (limestone), more decorative features (including capitals, bases, friezes and moldings) were carved from high-quality travertine stone – all finished off with brightly painted marble stucco, as shown by preserved traces of red, brownish-yellow and grey-blue pigments.
The main east side of the two-story palace was adorned with Doric columns on its lower level. The reconstructed Ionic facade of the upper level can be seen in the new Aigai museum. Kottaridi characterises the distinctive Ionic “double-side pillar-columns” that mark the palace’s entrance and its upper-floor’s lateral porticos an “ingenious” design, “fully developed here for the first time.” Benches (able to seat up to 170 of the king’s visitors!) were provided in two of the stoas (roofed colonnades) beside the central gateway and within its inner vestibules.
Visitors entering the palace today will find an enormous central courtyard surrounded by Doric columns and elegant, mosaic-paved banqueting halls (androns) for the king and his male guests. Turning left in this peristyle, one first encounters a circular chamber (tholos) sacred to Herakles Patroos, the semi-divine patron of Philip and Alexander’s family. Its interior walls were once adorned with Corinthian half-columns, like those in the tholos monuments of Delphi, Olympia and Epidaurus. Most striking
WE’VE CERTAINLY SEEN GRAND ARCHAEOLOGICAL VISIONS BEFORE ... SUCH INSPIRED PERSPECTIVES ARE A GREAT TRADITION IN GREECE AND A BELOVED SOURCE OF INTEREST FOR VISITORS.
among the dining spaces are three tripartite halls on the courtyard’s south, west and north sides, which also feature Ionic double-side pillar-columns at their entrances. The large western halls each held 30 dining couches, while the entire dining complex reportedly accommodated 230 couches, or up to 460 banqueters. A corridor on the north allowed access to an external terrace with a panoramic view.
The takeaway from a visit to Aigai? The newly restored palace represents a grand, mystery-solving vision of ancient Macedonia and Philip II. We’ve certainly seen grand archaeological visions before, at the Athenian Acropolis, Knossos, Mycenae and elsewhere. Such inspired perspectives are a great tradition in Greece and a beloved source of interest for visitors. Perhaps as Aigai’s recent “dust” begins to settle, there will be a clearer understanding of the scope of the work and contributions accomplished. Much hinges on the palace’s new foundation date, with significant ramifications for the history of ancient Greek architecture and how we perceive the ancient Macedonian monarchy. Yet many questions remain: If the royal family didn’t live at the palace, where did they reside? Was Philip II truly an enlightened, Plato-inspired monarch, an architectural innovator, who welcomed his subjects en masse into his presence, and who cared enough about democratic ideals to make his palace, as Kottaridi puts it, “an architectural manifesto of the ideal state,” and to post his new laws in a publically accessible portico beside its entrance? Such a benevolent, intellectual image clashes with that we’ve previously held of Philip as an ambitious military commander and empire builder who conquered peoples, burned cities and, at the end, elevated himself among the Olympian gods. The truth may lie somewhere in the middle.•
The palace's main entrance, gracefully framed by Ionic “double-side pillar-columns,” an innovative architectural feature here fully developed for the first time.
EXPLO R E MO R E:
SELECTED A R TICLES F R OM OU R WEBSITE
ABOVE THESSALONIKI: A HIKING WEEKEND ON MT HORTIATIS
Hiking, climbing, yoga in nature and heaps of history; the well-known yet still mysterious mountain of Thessaloniki hides a plethora of pleasant surprises.
TEN CRAZY THINGS FROM THESSALONIKI’S LONG HISTORY
From the unfortunate death of a playwright to a great unsolved mystery: ten strange but true stories from northern Greece’s fascinating and quirky past.
THE MEMORIES AND MANSIONS OF EXOCHES
The area known as Exoches to the Greeks was once a cosmopolitan hub of activity. Today, some of its most impressive surviving structures are home to important cultural institutions and charming cafés.
With its rich biodiversity and cultural heritage, the Prespes Lakes region has become a model for environmental conservation efforts and international cooperation.
Οrder back issues now at: subscription.kathimerini.gr/greece-is
Pay only shipping & handling.
FOLLOW US
