GREECE IS | ATHENS | SUMMER 2017 by GREECE IS

greece is experience culture, gastronomy & more

ATH EN S

FIRST EDITION

ISSN: 2529-041X

SUMMER 2017

44 - 74

78 - 108

123 - 143

144 - 159

WONDERS

E XP E RIE NCE S

TASTES

PIRAEUS

Τhis city’s glorious, multi-faceted past is very much present, in monuments and museums that astonish and inspire millions.

In Athens, it’s never a matter of how you can fill the days of your stay, but rather a question of what to leave out.

Could you ever imagine a Greek salad in a glass? We introduce you to some of the best chefs and mixologists in town.

Greece’s major port-city has plenty to offer any passerby who wants to devote some time to it or just misses the boat.

WELCOME

With fresh eyes s o m e t i m e s y o u n e e d a v i s i t o r ’ s p e r s p e c t i v e t o a p p r e c i at e y o u r o w n c i t y

BY GIORGOS TSIROS e d i to r- I N - C H I E F, G R E EC E I S

Looking at your city through the eyes of a visitor can be both inspiring and refreshing, as you discover all those things that foreigners appreciate and that we Athenians too often take for granted. It was this thought that struck me when I read the excellent article “Athens, an Unexpected Greek Renaissance” by Stephen Heyman in the May 2017 issue of Travel + Leisure magazine. “Despite the hardships it has weathered recently – from economic calamity to the refugee crisis,” he writes, “this ancient city is an astonishingly fun place to be right now, thanks to the young artists, dreamers and entrepreneurs who have taken matters into their own hands and started building the Athens they want to live in.” His recommendations – including galleries, walks and cooperative cafés – are among the most original I have ever seen in such an article. My interest in Heyman’s take on our city led to the Q&A with him that follows, which I offer by way of welcoming you, the readers, to the Greek capital and to the 5th issue of Greece Is Athens, in the hope of encouraging you to set out on your own rewarding exploration of the capital. What surprised you most during your stay? SH - The frappé. Nescafé whirred with sugar and ice should not taste this good.

Where in the city did you feel most at home? SH: Petralona (for its funky apartment buildings and superb restaurants), Kolonaki (for its shaded streets and swanky outdoor cafés) and Metaxourgeio (for its art scene and bohemian spirit). What’s the best photo you took with your smartphone? SH: I couldn’t help trying to capture the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (the epic new home of the Greek National Library and the National Opera) which looks like it’s about to float out to sea. What was the best memory you took back home? SH: Watching the sun set from the ruins atop Philopappou Hill, while some dude hidden in the olive scrub played the bouzouki and I shamelessly scribbled some ecstatic nonsense in my journal. Which unexpected Athenian experience would you recommend to a firsttime visitor? SH: Visiting a cooperative café, like Beaver, Saites or To Perivolaki. Not only are they laid-back, interesting places to drink, eat, and mingle with locals, their business model also serves a wonderful and much-needed social function. What’s at the top of your list for when you return? SH: To explore more of the “Athens Riviera,” a way to (almost) experience the Greek islands without ever leaving Athens.

A quiet summer afternoon in Dexameni Square

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CONTENTS Greece Is - ATHENS, Summer 2017 Issue 12. In Pictures. Then and now.

78. Our Athens. Sights, tastes and other

18. Mon Athènes. By Christophe

experiences that define the city’s distinct

Chantepy, the Ambassador of France to

character.

Greece.

110. Grecian Chic for Beginners. A

24. Uncovering Athens. Follow the

look at the work of designers who have

experts and gain new perspectives.

have helped to keep Greece fashionable.

30. The Zorba Inside Them. Greek

122. Who’s Cooking? Ten chefs who

folk dancing is finding its feet again.

helped put Athens on the global food map.

38. What’s On. Events and activities in

137. Dueling Mixologists. Six of the

and around the city.

city’s most inspired bartenders take on

44. Healing the Parthenon. An

the challenge of creating original cocktails

inside look at the work of the Acropolis

using unusual local ingredients.

Restoration Service.

144. Piraeus, the Mighty Port. There’s

50. The Grand Tour. Historical sites

so much to explore and enjoy in the main

and museums that shed unique light on

gateway to the Aegean islands that you

the city’s storied past.

might just want to take a later ferry.

greece is published by

E xe re vnitis - E xplore r S. A .

Ethnarchou Makariou & 2 Falireos, Athens, 18547, Greece, Tel. (+30) 210.480.8000 Fax (+30) 210.480.8202 ISSN: 2529-041X editor-in-chief Giorgos Tsiros (editor@greece-is.com) commercial director Natassa Bouterakou commercial inquiries Tel. (+30) 210- 480.8227 Fax (+30) 210-480.8228 Ε-mails: sales@greece-is.com, emporiko@kathimerini.gr public relations welcome@greece-is.com Greece is -ATHE NS

is a biannual publication, distributed free of charge. It is illegal to reproduce ON THE C OVER Illustration by Philippos Theodorides, www.philippostheodorides.com

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any part of this publication without the written permission of the publisher.

1810

View of Athens from the slopes of Lycabettus, in a painted lithograph by John Cam Hobhouse, 1st Baron Broughton. When this English politician and diarist first visited with Lord Byron, the city was still under Turkish occupation and its population was only a few thousand. On the left of the image is Hadrian’s Gate and on the right is Thiseio.

Source: J.C. Hobhouse, Lord Broughton, “A Journey Through Albania and Other Provinces of Turkey in Europe and Asia, to Constantinople, during the years 1809 and 1810,” London, James Cawthorn - National Historical Museum, Athens).

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IN PICTURE S

then and now

In the past 200 years, Athens has grown from a village to a metropolis.

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ÂŠ NATIONAL HISTORICAL MUSEUM OF ATHENS

1910

Three years before becoming the first man to conquer Mytikas, the highest summit of Mt Olympus, alongside his friend, the art historian Daniel Baud-Bovy, photography pioneer Frederic Boissonnas captured this view of Athens from Lycabettus Hill, with Faliro, Piraeus, Salamina and Aegina in the background. At that time, the city had 200,000 inhabitants and its center stretched from the Temple of Olympian Zeus to Omonoia Square. Visible are landmarks of the Greek capital, including Plaka, the Royal (now National) Garden, the Palace (now Parliament), Syntagma Square and, of course, the Acropolis.

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2010

This is more or less what today’s visitors see from the top of Lycabettus Hill. In 1810, J.C. Hobhouse described what he saw as a plain and a city “around a prominent hill on which we could discern some buildings, and beyond the city, the sea.” Today, the township of the early 19th century has become a sprawling metropolis, with a population of over one million in the city proper, and at least three more million in the greater urban area.

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Christophe Chantepy in the Museum of National History, housed in the Old Parliament, one of his favorite buildings in Athens.

PERSPECTIVES

Mon AthÈnes

Christophe Chantepy The French ambassador to Greece talks about discovering another side of the Greek capital. BY Ta s s o u l a E p ta k i l i

hen he was a student in high school, his Ancient Greek teacher often spoke passionately about her trip to Greece back in the 1960s and shared her love for the country. “She told us about the olive trees undulating like the sea beneath Delphi, about the majesty of the Parthenon, about the perfect ‘marriage’ between land and sea,” he remarked when assuming his post in Athens in 2015. “Mainly, she spoke of the Greeks’ hospitality, of the coffee they offered her together with a glass of cold water in the villages, of the Greek spirit.” He witnessed all these things for himself when he made his first trip here, and today, as French ambassador to Greece, Christophe Chantepy shares his memories of that time as well as his experience of Athens.

PERSPECTIVES

My first trip to Greece was in the summer of 1981 with a group of friends and fellow students – we were six men and one woman. I was 21 years old. We traveled to Corfu and camped out on a small beach, Myrtiotissa. I know today it’s much smaller – it was swallowed by the sea when the water level rose. I remember how impressed I was by the Mediterranean landscape, of which I had heard so much: the cicadas and their endless song, the olive trees, the pines, and the sea. A week later, we took the ferry to Patra, visited Olympia and Delphi, and then ended up in Athens – all this by bus, of course. I spent three days in Athens on that first trip and each day held amazing discoveries: the Acropolis and the Parthenon, the National Archaeological Museum, Plaka, Hadrian’s Arch, the Kallimarmaro (Panathenaic) Stadium. I came back the following year and for several years after that returned to Greece for my holidays, but not to the capital. I wanted to explore the islands. I had been left with the impression that what was interesting in Athens was related to antiquity – its museums, monuments and archaeological sites – rather than the city itself. Like most French people, I had no idea it was so beautiful and interesting in its own right. This dawned on me when I moved here as French ambassador. What is it that makes it so attractive and intriguing? To begin with, all the layers of history - and not only antiquity - that have become imprinted on every little thing, especially the architecture: from the ancient monuments and the neoclassical mansions to the small houses you see in Thiseio and Psyrri, 20

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What is it that makes Athens so beautiful and interesting? To begin with, all the layers of history that have become imprinted on every little thing.

and from the Bauhaus buildings to the apartment blocks of the 1950s and ‘60s. Most European cities, like Paris, are characterized by architectural homogeneity. Athens has a diversity that I find particularly attractive. After the city’s beauty, I began to discover the beauty of its residents. Their creativity and their innovative spirit impressed me. I can now say with certainty that I know the real Athens. The image I have is not superficial, that of the tourist who passes by before boarding a boat to some island and only sees the basics. There are a lot of neighborhoods

I like a lot. Exarchia, for example, for its vibrancy, its cafés, bars and restaurants. I like Lycabettus, with its uphills and downhills, and Psyrri, for walking around its narrow streets, particularly in the fall or spring, as well as Thiseio and Pangrati. I also love Sounion. The Temple of Poseidon is a magical spot. I suppose you know that it forms an isosceles triangle with the Parthenon and the Temple of Aphaea in Aegina? Isn’t that incredible? I’ve recently discovered some lovely places in northeastern Attica as well, like Artemida. Beyond the Acropolis and the other important archaeological sites, I would like to mention a few newer buildings that I find perfect in terms of architecture and very moving because of their history. Such as the Old Parliament, Greece’s first parliament (from 1875 to 1935), on Stadiou Street, which is now home to the Museum of National History, a treasure trove of Greece’s modern history. I stop to admire it every time I pass by. It’s not just its beauty that draws me, but its fragility as well. It reminds me of the beauty and fragility of democracy itself. Greek cuisine is not very wellknown abroad. Of course, foreigners know about souvlaki, moussaka and Greek salad, but it’s a pity that this is all they know because there is such an incredible wealth of flavors and products in Greece. I love stuffed vine leaves with egg-lemon sauce, the spetzofai sausage dish and the snails they prepare on Crete – in the frying pan with vinegar and rosemary – called chochloi bourbouristoi. When friends from France visit, I always recommend they try them. Eating in Greece means generosity and the joy of sharing: lots

PERSPECTIVES

Syntagma and Lycabettus Hill, 1865. Photo by Demetrios Konstantinou.

of small meze and friends trying a little bit of everything and enjoying not just the food but conversation as well. And, of course, I love all the traditional Easter dishes: the magiritsa lamb offal stew, spit-roasted lamb, crispy kokoretsi offal sausage. When I go out for dinner, I often choose Karavitis, a historic taverna that has been around for nine decades. I also like Oxo Nou, a Cretan meze place in the city center, the French Chez Violette, which shares the building with Ama Lachei with its lovely garden and Rozalia, all of them in Exarchia.

Other places I find very pleasant are Mavro Provato in Pangrati, Nikitas, a tiny taverna in Psyrri and Kafeneio, near the embassy in Kolonaki. I have been learning Greek almost since the first day I moved to Athens and have a grammar and syntax book on my desk. I also learn a lot from reading the crime novels of Yannis Maris, because his vocabulary is not too complicated. But I always remember a few phrases I learned as a student in Ancient Greek class, like kalos kagathos â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a term used to describe a person who is handsome and virtuous, the combination of physi-

cal beauty and moral excellence. When the time comes to leave, what I would like to take as a souvenir is a photograph of Athens from the 19th century: a small scattering of houses, a city that is just starting to grow around the Royal Palace, today's Parliament Building, and Lycabettus standing tall, alone. This image to me is the scene of the beginning of modern, independent Greece; with a lot of question marks but also much promise. But I think I will never really leave Greece at the end of my term as ambassador. Because Greece is not a country to be left.â&#x20AC;?

Info A m a L a c h e i 69 Kallidromiou, Exarchia, Tel. (+30) 210.384.5978. C h e z V i o l e t t e 69 Kallidromiou, Exarchia, Tel. (+30) 210.384.5974 K a f e n e i o 26 Loukianou, Tel. (+30) 210.723.9600. K a r av i t i s 4 Pafsaniou, Pangrati, Tel. (+30) 210.721.5155. Ma V RO P RO V ATO 31-33 Arrianou, Pangrati, Tel. (+30) 210.722.3466. N i k i ta s 19 Aghion Anargyron, Psyrri, Tel. (+30) 210.325.2591. O x o N o u 63-65 Benaki, Tel. (+30) 210.380.1778. ROZ A L I A 59 Valtetsiou, Tel. (+30) 210.330.2933. Y I A NTES 44 Valtetsiou, Tel. (+30) 210.330.1369

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ATHENS INSIDERS

GUIDES

Uncovering Athens A new approach to walking tours gives visitors unprecedented access to the capital’ secrets. BY Maria Coveou

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ALTERNATIVE TOURS OF ATHENS Looking to get a real taste of modern city life and acquaint yourself with talented creatives? The options from Alternative Tours of Athens, led by architects, photographers, artists and musicians, uncover unexpected landmarks of the city and show you life as it unfolds in lesser-known neighborhoods. Among the most unusual options are the Grassroots Exarchia Tour, which centers around one of Athens’ most politicized neighborhoods, and the Music Lovers’ Tour, where you’ll discover the cornerstones of Greek music in traditional instrument workshops and record stores. A more conventional Best of Athens Tour is always on ATA’s menu as well. • www.atathens.org

INTO STOAS ATHENS WALKTHROUGH

THIS IS MY ATHENS

ATHENS INSIDERS This group’s specialty is tailor-made tours; you sign up using their easy interactive online form, letting them know about your interests and requirements. Alternatively, you can opt for one of their themed private tours; some of these include interesting options for families traveling with kids, like the three-hour Be an Ancient Athenian Tour that includes visits to Athens’ most significant landmarks, a kid-friendly experiential game about the ancient city and democracy, and even a picnic of local snacks. For firsttime visitors, the Athens Orientation Tour is an excellent starting point. • www.athensinsiders.com

Please note that it’s always a good idea to contact the tour companies to find out about availabilities.

DISCOVER GREEK CULTURE

BIG OLIVE CITY WALKS With a focus on the city’s history, architecture, art and current affairs, the team at Big Olive offers insightful walking tours that satisfy even the most demanding of the culturally curious. Their “strolls,” led by scholars and experts in a number of fields, will show you around lesser-known Athenian neighborhoods, such as Kypseli and Votanikos. Their classic walks, also led by local experts, will give an educative and entertaining perspective on the city and its hidden beauties. The three-hour long Grand Tour of Athens, for example, spans 3,400 years of Athenian history and will lead you away from the busy main roads to narrow alleyways and hidden courtyards helping you understand how this city came to be. • www.bigolive.org

CULINARY BACKSTREETS Originally founded in Istanbul in 2009, this group is now operating in ten other cities around the world, including Athens. Their aim is to celebrate the “unsung heroes of each city’s cuisine,” as the founders put it – to highlight, in other words, authentic restaurants and shops that are off the beaten path and uphold each city’s culinary tradition. In Athens, they currently offer four culinary walks (all designed for small groups of up to seven) which explore the backstreets of the downtown areas of Plaka, Monastiraki, Thissio, Petralona and Psyrri. Through these walks, visitors are given the opportunity not only to taste delicious meze, like grilled octopus, or a glass of Assyrtiko, a grape variety grown mainly in Santorini, but also to meet the people behind the shops and restaurants and to gain insights into the culinary tradition they celebrate. • www.culinarybackstreets.com

ALTERNATIVE TOURS OF ATHENS (ATA)

THIS IS MY ATHENS

THIS IS MY ATHENS In an effort to provide visitors with a different way to experience the capital, the City of Athens Convention and Visitors Bureau made a public call in 2011 for residents who wanted to express their passion for their city by showing tourists around, free of charge. In 2014, This is My Athens became the booking platform where travelers can pick their resident guide based on common interests – such as gastronomy, urban life, nature, history or culture – and plan a walk in advance. The local guides are an ideal alternative for anyone looking to get a glimpse of the “real” Athens rather than following the usual tourist trails. • www.myathens.thisisathens.org

BIG OLIVE CITY WALKS

DISCOVER GREEK CULTURE Their innovative, award-winning tours, led by experts in various fields, aim to reveal hidden aspects of Greek culture and to offer memorable hands-on experiences. The half-day and one-day tours cover major attractions but will also take you off the beaten path and behind a few closed doors as well. Try the Heritage Dinner Tour, which starts with a stroll around Plaka and ends with dinner in a historic private townhouse, or the Touching History Tour, where historians will introduce you to the treasures of the Benaki Museum, even allowing you to hold historic heirlooms in your hands. Also on offer are tailor-made tours for those who are interested in specific topics or areas, as well as family-friendly tours specifically designed for children, with an emphasis on experiential learning. • www.discovergreekculture.com DISCOVER GREEK CULTURE

CULINARY BACKSTREETS

INTO STOAS ATHENS WALKTHROUGH This unique tour, led by graphic designer Natassa Pappa, will take you through Athens’ intricate network of commercial arcades and reveal to you “a city within the city” that not even locals know exists. During the two-hour walking lecture, you will explore building interiors and hear from shop owners about what life is like in the arcades while Pappa delivers further information about the arcades’ distinctive characteristics, their historical and cultural background and their own vernacular language as expressed through the shops’ signage and typography. The walks are available upon request (mail to: intostoas@gmail.com) daily except Sunday, between 10:00-14:00 • www.cargocollective.com/intostoas/Athens-Walkthrough 28

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INTO STOAS ATHENS WALKTHROUGH

TRADITION

THE ZORBA INSIDE THEM Greek folk dancing is starting to find its feet (and fans) again. BY P h o e b e F r o n i s ta

Teach me to dance, will you?” Basil asks Zorba. Towards the end of the film Zorba the Greek, after the uptight and English-bred Basil’s dreams of running a lignite mine on his father’s land have been crushed, after he has stood by in helpless inaction as his lover’s throat is cut in front of his eyes, he decides to try this dancing thing that seems to so affect his friend. Zorba, who has been mulling over his own disasters, jumps up, throws off his jacket, and begins to teach Basil the steps of a version of the Greek folk dance “hasapiko,” the now-famous “sirtaki.” The film ends with the two men cackling and dancing joyously through their pain on a deserted Cretan beach. After all, as Zorba has already said earlier in the film, “When a man is full, what can he do? Burst?” No, he dances. Several decades later, the words of Zorba continue to hold true on the third floor of a dingy apartment building in the busy Metaxourgeio area of Athens. Against a backdrop of African drums and a map of West Africa (the dance classes take place at a percussion school), dance tutors Panayiotis Petropoulos and Katerina Kikaki of An-

tipatima teach Greek folk dances to a varied group of thirty and forty-somethings. The lesson structure is loose. Students trickle in between 19:30 and 21:00, joining in some dances, sitting out others. One student brings in two liters of homemade wine and cheese pies for his name day; a break is called, and people crowd the small waiting area, drinking and chatting before going back to the lesson. Growing up, Panayiotis (now 36 years old) never listened to Greek music of any kind – he was a bass player in a punk rock band. When he lost his IT job during the crisis, he felt lost and depressed, until one summer he found himself on the island of Ikaria, famous for its boisterous local festivals and the lively local dance named for the island. The “Ikariotikos” is a tactile dance, where hands are not held, but slung over the next person’s shoulders, regardless of height, and a tight coil of bodies is created, spiralling ever outwards. Sometimes, hundreds of people can make up one coil. Panayiotis says the feeling that came from participating in circular dances worked as a form of psychotherapy for him and brought him out of his funk.

Greek folk dancing isn’t just for the tourists; there are healthy attendance figures at schools around Athens.

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tradition

The Folk Dance Savior DORA STRATOU (1903-1988)

Dora Stratou with singer Harry Belafonte and actor Frederic March.

Wanting to share that feeling with others, he and his friend Katerina, a 28-year-old PhD student of oceanography, formed the group Antipatima, which literally means “stepping the opposite way,” in October 2016. Unlike other traditional folk dance schools, the purpose of the classes at Antipatima isn’t flawless execution of the steps; instead, it’s to have fun. Nor is the point to make money: there’s a fee of just €4 per class, or €14 per month, but that is, they say, just a suggestion. The point is to find joy. “These are dance classes for our generation,” says Panayiotis. “There’s definitely been a turn towards tradition, people want to rediscover their culture. There’s a sort of ‘lost generation’ feeling; our grandparents danced folk dances much more often than our parents did.” Decades ago, there was a reaction against traditional folk dances, but that “now people are returning to their roots.” I ask him whether this search for the traditional, for roots, has something to do with Greece’s financial crisis. “May32

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be,” he says, “it’s because we don’t have the money to go on trips abroad anymore, so we’re forced to travel within Greece and discover our own country.” At the more traditional end of the dance school spectrum lies the Zisis Foundation. Formed in 1972 by lawyer and Byzantine music aficionado Petros Zisis, its aim was to preserve and promote traditional Greek music. It offers lessons in traditional Greek instruments and folk dance classes for both children and adults at a number of locations in Athens. Zisis holds the requisite dance productions with traditional costumes at the end of the year – using more than 1,500 complete costumes – and its students take part in municipal functions, like Greek Independence or May Day celebrations. The school has seen a marked rise in the number of people signing up, and is constantly adding new classes. Nikos Thomas, a teacher at the Zisis Foundation, says the recent spike in interest has coincided with an increase in research and discovery of so-called “new” dances.

Dora Stratou was born in 1903 into a privileged family and led a comfortable life until her father, Nikolaos Stratos, was accused of treason and executed, after serving as Prime Minister of Greece for just six days in 1922. Dora left Greece after her father’s execution and the loss of her family’s fortune, living in Berlin, Paris and New York and studying classical music. She returned to Greece in 1932 and threw herself into theatrical and philanthropic endeavours, most notably helping Karolos Koun (the Greek theater director known for staging ancient Greek plays) set up his Art Theater. Stratou’s life changed in 1952, when she saw a Yugoslavian folk troupe perform their country’s traditional dances in authentic costumes and realized that nothing of the kind existed in Greece. In 1953, with the help of both academics and the Greek government, she founded a dance company with the aim of creating a permanent dance troupe able to perform a wide repertoire of Greek folk dances. Stratou singlemindedly pursued her goal of reviving folk dance, believing that its preservation would serve as proof of the continuity of the Greek race through the ages. Stratou herself went to villages and local festivals to learn as many forms of traditional dance as she could, while also acquiring the thousands of priceless original costumes still used in performances today. In 1963, construction began on the open-air theatre on Philopappou Hill after a special order by then-Prime Minister Konstantinos Karamanlis. Stratou retired in 1983, having written three books on Greek dance and released 45 folk music records.

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tradition

Info D o r a S t r at o u D a n c e T h e at r e : Tel. (+30) 210.921.4650 • www.grdance.org/en • Performances are held daily from May 24 to September 24, and usually end in standing ovations Z I S I S F O U N D AT ION : 5 Kolokotroni, Chalandri • Tel. (+30-210-6815685.

Women’s Dance from Pharassa (Cappadocia).

“There used to be only one ‘kalamatiano,’ one ‘tsamiko.’ Now we accept that there are about 100 different tsamika, all performed in their own unique way,” says Nikos, who’s been teaching folk dancing for 33 years. He goes on to explain how a village’s geography and climate heavily influences how its people dance. “For example,” Nikos says, “take Epirus, a poor, mountainous region in northwestern Greece. It is cold, the ground is hard and rocky, and so the dancers’ center of gravity is low and their moves are much slower and more deliberate than the ‘sirto’ of the islands, which is performed at a brisk and airy pace.” In the 1970s, when Nikos came to Athens as a youth from Preveza in Epirus, the capital was flush with dis-

cos playing music from abroad or foreign-influenced Greek pop. Folk music was mainly for tourists, who were regaled with the showiest of dances. Now, he says, “There has been a turn toward anything that is traditional.” Satisfying all this newfound interest in folk dancing would have been impossible had it not been for the determination of professional and amateur researchers who attended local festivals, documenting oral history and observing village elders. Perhaps no one has made a greater impact on the preservation of this tradition than Dora Stratou, a self-taught dance scholar who founded the “Dora Stratou Greek Dances Society” in 1953. By the end of her 30-year tenure, she had not only created a sanctuary to pre-

Folk songs have historically served as a consolation during difficult times. During the German occupation in World War II, people danced and sang.

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serve traditional dance, but also built an 860-seat theater in central Athens and collected around 2,500 complete traditional costumes from all over Greece. The school is still running well and classes are more formally structured than at other folk dancing schools. The approximately 600 students need to complete a three-year course in order to get a diploma. The best are invited to join the 75-member troupe. Current Dora Stratou president, 74-year-old Alkis Raftis, says that even though there was a dip in applications during the crisis most still attend. One student continues coming and paying the €30 a month even after losing his job, telling his teachers that he couldn’t live without dance. Raftis, an academic who has published more than 20 books on Greek folk dance, says that folk songs have historically served as a consolation during difficult times. During the German occupation in World War II, people danced and sang so much that traditional Greek music was bolstered. Back at the Antipatima dance classes, it’s carnival time. Panayiotis and Katerina pass out sheets of paper printed with the lewd lyrics of a carnival song from the island of Lesbos. “Don’t dance the steps, dance the music,” instructs Panayiotis. The group practices once, twice and then they’re off, singing and laughing and correcting steps. The session ends with an “Ikariotiko.” Fotini, a student, says she always loved folk dances. “I constantly wondered why it was never popular. When we had house parties when I was younger, in between the R&B songs I’d sneak in a ‘ballos’, and I’d be dancing by myself. Now, I’m no longer by myself.”

tradition

The Classics W h e n t h e mus i c p l ays , t h i s i s w h at t h e y ’ l l b e d a n c i n g .

KALAMATIANOS

SYRTO STA TRIA

Taking its name from the city of Kalamata, it’s one of the easiest circular dances around, performed from its Peloponnesian birthplace all the way to Northern Greece. The musical instruments vary from region to region but can include the Greek clarinet (klarino), Greek lute (laouto), two-headed drum (daouli) and violin.

The oldest of all Greek circular folk dances, the Syrto’s roots lie deep in antiquity. It exists across a large geographical spread, from Asia Minor to the Ionian islands. Its name comes from the ancient Greek word “syro” (drag). On the islands, musicians use the Greek lute, small drum (toumbaki), violin and island bagpipe (tsampouna), while on the mainland the Greek clarinet and land bagpipe (gaida) are preferred.

kah-lah-mah-tee-ah-NOES 7/8 time, 12 steps

PENTOZALI

pehn-doh-ZAH-lee 2/4 time, five basic steps, that go up to 10 This improvisational and aerobic dance hails from the island of Crete. A war dance, its origins date back to the fifth unsuccessful and bloody uprising against the Ottoman Empire in 1769, when Cretans from the village of Sfakia danced it before deciding to revolt. The music gets progressively faster and is played using the Cretan lyre and Greek lute.

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seer-TOE stah TREE-ah 2/4 time, six steps

KOTSARI

KOH-tsah-ree 2/4 time, eight steps One of the most famous Pontic Greek war dances, kotsari is a compound word comprised of the ancient Greek “kotsi” (heel) and “airo” (to lift). Nowadays, it is typical for women to dance the vigorous tune as well, and it is performed using a Pontic lyre and a two-headed drum.

TSAMIKO

TSAH-mee-koe 3/4 time, eight basic steps that can go up to 16 Associated with the Greek War of Independence in 1821 and traditionally danced only by men, the tsamiko is a popular circular dance in festivals and weddings, especially in the rural areas of Central Greece, the Peloponnese and Thessaly; in Epirus, a slower version is performed. The person leading the dance usually performs fancy acrobatic footwork, and it is considered polite to alternate with other dancers to allow them to show off as well. The Greek clarinet, lute, violin and either the tambourine or goblet drum (toumberleki) are used to perform it.

IKARIOTIKOS

ee-kah-ree-OH-tee-kohs 2/4 time, nine steps Once an obscure dance known only to those with roots from the remote eastern Aegean island of Ikaria, its catchy melody has recently spread throughout Greece, especially Athens – as has its island’s reputation for raucous festivals where the Ikariotikos is performed dozens of times in one evening. Its growing popularity means there are few social gatherings or weddings which do not feature one. The music features the violin and Greek lute.

BALLOS

BAH-loes 2/4 time, six steps The most popular dance of the islands, the joyous ballos (from the Italian ballare) is performed by couples dancing across from each other and is traditionally considered a courting dance. Also popular in Asia Minor, the instruments used to perform its myriad tunes are the violin, Greek lute and small drum.

εmotions @ THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

aGENDA

What’s On THE SEASON’S BEST EXHIBITIONS AND EVENTS BY XENIA GEORGIADOU

To 27/08/2017

To 01/09/2017

The exhibition “Voyage: Greek Seafaring and Shipbuilding” presents 40 handmade wooden models of Greek ships that tell the country’s naval history as it unfolded in the Aegean and the Mediterranean from prehistoric times to the early 20th century, highlighting great conquests and technological achievements. The ship miniatures – ranging from a prehistoric single-log vessel to the classical trireme – are complemented by displays of navigation instruments, maps, video projections, details of how the ships were built and specialized publications.

The 7th Athens Open-Air Film Festival enlivens the urban landscape by bringing free-of-charge screenings, concerts and a string of interactive activities to key public spaces in Athens, including monuments, parks, squares and museum gardens, as well as other suprise venues. This year’s edition includes a tribute to British gothic horror, award-winning films, lesser-known productions and a selection of feature-length and short Greek films. • www.aoaff.gr

Herakleidon Museum: 37 Apostolou Pavlou, Thiseio, www.herakleidon-art.gr (Metro station: Thiseio)

Cy Twombly and Greece

Maritime tales

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Under the stars

To 03/09/2017

Cy Twombly visited Greece for the first

time in the summer of 1960, but his acquaintance with its ancient culture predated that, as is attested by the role that Greek mythology played in his work from the mid-1950s. The exhibition “Divine Dialogues: Cy Twombly & Greek Antiquity” presents 27 works by the great American artist – such as Aphrodite, Apollo, Orpheus, Pan and Nike – beside 12 ancient artworks, instigating a dialogue between ancient and contemporary art.   • Museum of Cycladic Art: 4 Neofytou Douka, Kolonaki, www.cycladic.gr (Metro station: Evangelismos)

08/09/2017 Musical Voyage The gypsy jazz group ManoucheDrome Trio and clarinetist Alexis Stenakis will take the audience on a journey to the 1930s

Cy Twombly @ THE MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART

CHARMED LIVES IN GREECE @ THE BENAKI MUSEUM

Naïve PAINTERS @ THE CENTER OF FOLK ART

Maritime tales @ Herakleidon Museum

with a performance inspired by the music of Django Reinhardt. The set list that they will perform in the garden of the Athens Concert Hall will feature original pieces and classic gypsy jazz tracks included on their recently released album, as well as new tracks from their forthcoming album. Athens Concert Hall, Vasilissis Sofias & 1 Kokkali, www.megaron.gr (Metro station: Megaro Mousikis)   •

Το 10/09/2017 Space Age

Seventy years since the Soviet-built Sputnik became the first manmade satellite to enter into orbit and the term “space age” became an everyday phrase, the cultural center Romantso is hosting the exhibition “Electric and Electronic Art in Greece, 1957–1989.” The exhibition will explore the utopian application of future technologies in the fields of music (Xe40

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nakis, Logothetis, Christou, Mamangakis, Adamis), the visual arts (Takis, Xagoraris, Zongolopoulos, Triantafyllou, Argyrakis), cinema, architecture and urban planning. The exhibits include artworks, posters, vintage tin toys and video projections. Romantso: 3-5 Anaxagora, www.romantso.gr (Metro station: Omonia)   •

Το 10/09/2017

tographs and personal dedications, the exhibition reveals their love for Greece and their influence on each other. Benaki Museum (Main Building), Vasilissis Sofias & 1 Koumbari, www.benaki.gr (Metro station: Evangelismos, Syntagma) •

TO 24/09/2017

Greek Naïve Painters

A Rare Friendship The exhibition “Ghika, Craxton, Leigh Fermor: Charmed Lives in Greece” explores the bonds of friendship between three leading lights of the 20th-century art and literary world, and the wonderful locations (Hydra, Kardamyli, Crete and Corfu) that helped inspire them. Through the paintings of Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika and John Craxton and the writings of Patrick Leigh Fermor, together with letters, manuscripts, publications, pho-

Fifty works by Greek and Cypriot artists (inspired by traditions and daily life in the city and the countryside) from the collection of Christos and Polly Kollialis feature in the exhibition “Naïve Art in Greece.” The focal point of the exhibition are scenes from 19th- and 20th-century Athens, set against the backdrop of the neighborhoods around the Acropolis. • Center of Folk Art and Tradition, 6 Angelikis Hatzimichali, Plaka (Metro station: Acropolis)

© John Craxton drawing at Ghika’s house on Hydra,1960 © Wolfgang Suschitzky Benaki Museum – Ghika Gallery, Photographic Archive, Athens. Donated by Wolfgang Suschitzky. Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika, Study for a Poster, 1948. Benaki Museum – Ghika Gallery, Athens © 2017 Benaki Museumtion

Maria Callas@THEOCHARAKIS FOUNDATION

SPACE AGE@ROMANTSO

GYPSY JAZZ@THE CONCERT HALL GARDEN

TO 24/09/2017

The Theater of Disappearance “What does it mean to have the ground beneath our feet?” asks the Argentinean artist Adrián Villar Rojas. For “The Theater of Disappearance,” his new art installation at the National Observatory of Athens, he has intervened radically in the layout of the grounds, prompting visitors to explore a new fantastical environment with multiple references to the things that comprise our historical knowledge and shape our collective consciousness. Over an area of 4,500 square meters, he has created two different scenes, through which the various important aspects of the ground are highlighted. A lush, fertile zone with 46,000 plants of 26 different species is directly juxtaposed with 11 sculptural installations that have been placed in glass cases on the remotest side of the Hill of the Nymphs. Rusty cables, a replica of the Winged Victory of Samothrace marred with graffiti, a replica of Lucy, mortar shells and military helmets, laptops and flags symbolize greed, the thirst for new conquests and the desire to dominate. National Observatory of Athens, Hill of the Nymphs, Thiseio, www.neon.org.gr (Metro Station: Thiseio)  •

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ATHENS OPEN-AIR FILM FESTIVAL

TO 29/10/2017 The Life of a Diva Medea’s wig, the score from “La Traviata,” a gold cross, autographs, costumes, dresses, furnishings, performance programs, handwritten letters and photographs all shed light on various aspects of the life and career of Maria Callas. Forty years on from the premature death of the great Greek opera singer, the B&M Theocharakis Foundation presents the exhibition “Maria Callas: The Legend Lives,” featuring over 200 of her personal items. B & M Theocharakis Foundation, 9 Vasilissis Sofias & 1 Merlin, www.thf.gr (Metro station: Syntagma) •

to 19/11/2017

Human εmotions Rage, mirth, sadness, fear, lust, despair, mania: 129 archeological findings from significant museums – among them the National Archeological Museum in Athens, the Louvre and the British Museum – display the world of emotions of ancient Greece. The ancient Greeks deified many of these emotions and discussed their significance and the consequences of their uncontrolled expression through literature

and art. The temporary exhibition “εmotions,” jointly organized by the Acropolis Museum and the Onassis Foundation, offers a five-part journey through the different pathways of the human soul. Acropolis Museum: 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou, www.theacropolismuseum.gr (Metro station: Acropolis) •

TO 17/12/2017

Women’s Struggle Photographs, newspaper articles, handwritten manuscripts, posters, books, magazines and audiovisual materials depict the battles waged by the Greek feminist movement from the fall of the military dictatorship in 1974 to the end of the 20th century. The exhibition “Feminism and Transition to Democracy, 1974-1990: Ideas, Collectives, Claims,” hosted by the Hellenic Parliament Foundation, explores the efforts of feminists to improve the position of women in the social arena, labor market and family. • The Exhibition Hall of the Hellenic Parliament, 11 Vasilissis Sofias (Sekeri entrance), www.foundation.parliament.gr (Metro σtation: Syntagma

FEMINISM AND THE TRANSITION TO DEMOCRACY

WORK IN PROGRESS

Healing the Parthenon An inside look at the work of the Acropolis Restoration Service, which is responsible for returning the Sacred Rock to its full glory. BY i o ta S y k k a

rchitects, archaeologists, engineers, conservators, draughtsmen, marble masons and workers – the staff of the Acropolis Restoration Service (YSMA) – are the people we may see around us on every visit to the Acropolis, on scaffolding, on cranes, running the organized work areas. On a daily basis, they deal with the structural problems of these ancient monuments, dismantling ailing parts that need “healing,” conserving architectural members, completing them where necessary with new Pentelic marble, and repositioning them. Nontheless, the lowering of every pedimental block or metope panel is for them a unique experience; of course, it’s even more amazing for those visitors who happen to be on the rock at the time of these delicate procedures. The crew’s preparation for the lowering of the central orthostate block of the Parthenon’s west pediment began at 7 am. There was tension in the air and it seemed everyone’s adrenaline was pumping, but there was collaboration,and synchronization, too. First, iron fasteners holding the marble were cut, then modern cement had to be removed, wedges and lifting bands were put in place and, by one o’clock in the afternoon, the 7.5-ton orthostate had been lowered safely back to earth. The actual procedure of lowering it 10m took only ten minutes, but it had re44

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quired months of preparation and meticulous coordination among the crew members. The repair of the orthostate and other architectural members of the west pediment, damaged by the corrosion and the expansion of iron reinforcements installed by a previous restorer, Nikolaos Balanos, in the 1920s and ‘30s, as well as of five other stones from the pediment’s triangular central area (“tympanum”), is part of a new program of works recently begun on the Acropolis. It’s being funded under the European support package ESPA 2014-2020. The reconditioning of these 2,500-year-old architectural members will take two years and the work will be done on the spot. Also planned are restoration works on the north wall of the Parthenon’s Cella, while activities such as the fluting of columns in the Pronaos (east porch) and the rehabilitation and repositioning of marble roof beams over the monument’s western colonnade will also continue. The budget for completing these latest interventions comes to €5 million. The fundamental studies required for the new works were approved last year by Greece’s Central Archaeological Council, after the loss of the Acropolis Monuments Conservation Committee’s (ESMA) longtime president, Prof. Charalambos Bouras, who, before his death, had drafted the

necessary documents for the planned interventions on the Parthenon’s west pediment. What do we see today? What do visitors see today on the Acropolis? “There are currently two work sites, one for the Parthenon and one for the walls of the Acropolis,” says Vasiliki Eleftheriou, director of YSMA. “For the Parthenon, we have three projects running, focusing on the west pediment, the north wall of the Parthenon’s Cella and the carving of flutes on a column of the Pronaos. The project involving the walls, also approved and included in the formal program of works, has begun in the area north of the Propylaia (you can see it while walking through the Plaka) and will continue north of the Erechtheion.” Work on the monuments often requires lengthy timetables. “The set-up of a site can take two or three months, as we follow all the necessary preparatory procedures, including things like tendering bids for the procurement of materials,” Eleftheriou continues. Ten-

The 7.5-ton central orthostate block of the Parthenon’s west pediment is being lifted by a crane.

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WORK IN PROGRESS

Scientists aren’t just interested in restoring these monuments; they’re also concerned about what caused the damage in the first place. The greatest disasters, it seems, have been due to human actions.

ders are also required for the removal of the old crane now standing in the middle of the Parthenon, to make way for the newer one, visible now on the temple’s west side. The whole procedure can take 3-4 months. “When will we see the Parthenon without scaffolding…?” was a question that often concerned the late Bouras, and it’s also one that continues to engage ESMA’s current president, professor emeritus of architecture Manolis Korres. “Today, we’re seeing the Propylaia without the scaffolding it had,” says YSMA’s director Eleftheriou, taking the opportunity to emphasize the works that have already been finished and the significant changes that have been made. “With the work completed 46

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there, we have handed back the monument and the whole double gateway is now clear of scaffolding. The Parthenon requires additional work, in part because one job often leads necessarily to another. I’d like to believe we will eventually see it without scaffolding, but this will involve a combination of factors: staff, time and procedures.” There are a few areas of the Parthenon that will remain at risk until the works on it are completed in 2020. “We have some loose ends to tie up,” Eleftheriou explains. “The walls of the Parthenon’s Cella will take us a few years, but the dangerous parts have already been removed. Repositioning of architectural members also takes time.” The lintel over the entrance in the Par-

thenon’s west wall still requires treatment, as it was previously restored by Balanos using concrete reinforced with low-grade iron. After the removal of these modern materials, the two original internal beams whose parts are preserved must be restored and supplemented with new marble. “It will be our next rescue operation,” notes Eleftheriou. “Everything is done in order of priority.” Scientists aren’t just interested in restoring these monuments; they’re also concerned about what caused the damage in the first place. Seismic activity is being studied and monitored, but the greatest disasters appear to have been due to human actions. In the 1970s, the scientific community was greatly concerned with the effects of atmospheric pollution, but researchers have also been examining climatic changes and their consequences for a long time, and both issues remain relevant. Regarding the effects of high temperatures, Eleftheriou states that: “we have yet to come to a consensus on monitoring methods, since the research is ongoing. YSMA is also collaborating with various programs at polytechnic schools, so we are still very much in the middle of things.”

F u l l o f a r t, g l a m o u r a n d g e n u i n e h o s p i ta l i t y Grecotel Pallas Athena, this new avant-garde boutique hotel in downtown Athens, is the place where luxury and hospitality create a new experience: an Art Boutique hotel for luxurious city living. This 5-star Luxury Hotel is ideally located in the historic center of the city, next to the Athens Town Hall and just a short walk from most of the major sights and attractions of the capital, including the Acropolis, the new Acropolis Museum, and the district of Plaka, the city’s oldest neighborhood, as well as many of Athens’ most famous nightlife venues.

Highlights A unique location in the city center, near the Acropolis Museum and all other major museums and city attractions. Near the Metro stations of Omonia and Monastiraki, with direct access to Line 3, which runs from-to Athens International Airport. • 63 rooms and suites with unique art elements or original wall paintings and exhibits. • A collection of family rooms - a real thrill for your little ones. •

Loft Suites located on the top floor boast the quintessential atmosphere of a luxurious Athenian apartment, with spectacular city views. • Dining hall and lounge area with terrace overlooking Kotzia Square. • Fitness Room. • Free Wi-Fi in all public areas and hotel rooms. •

BEST HOTEL BREAKFAST The best way to start your day is with an extensive breakfast buffet offering a wide choice of hot and cold dishes, a variety of croissants and cakes, hot bread, jams, Cretan honey, cereals, hot omelets, homemade pies, fresh fruits, salads, pastries, fresh juices and coffee. Don’t miss the unique “Cretan corner” with traditional products such as “dakos,” “apaki,” “mizithropitakia” and many other delicacies.

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FINE-DINING Experience delicious meals in the elegant dining-room and lounge bar. • An ideal venue where you can sit back and enjoy great food in a relaxing environment is located on the first floor. • A unique gourmet culinary experience awaits you, complete with sumptuous interpretations of the flavors of Greece in traditional comfort food dishes with international flair! • Create and customize your own fine-dining experience within the comfort and convenience of your room or suite, prepared and served by our staff. •

GRECOTEL PALLAS ATHENA BOUTIQUE HOTEL 65, Athinas & Likourgou, GR-10551, Kotzia Sq., Athens, Greece Tel. (+30) 210.325.0900 Email: reservations.pa@grecotel.com grecotelpallasathena.com #grecotelpallasathena

wonders

Beyond the Parthenon A meaningful, memorable tour of Athens is all about experiencing those special historical sites that connect you profoundly and uniquely to the city’s storied past. BY John Leonard

hese days, it seems we look forward so much to a “futuristic” future, and have become so enthralled with electronic devices and a digital, “virtual” world, that old ways and traditional concepts are often viewed, especially by young people, as something odd or out of sync with the times. Fewer Western student-travelers are taking “grand tours” to the classical world’s oldest cities and lands, like modern-day Lord Byrons, Charles Cockerells, or Sanford Giffords, in search of tangible, inspiring traces of their historical, cultural roots. Nevertheless, Athens and other European “cultural capitals” are the original 3D historical sites, where visitors of all ages can actually connect with the past in ways unlike those of any virtual tour hyped online. In today’s rapidly changing world, it is more important than ever to comprehend the depth and breadth of past human achievement and learning, as we can never fully appreciate the present, or even conceive of the future, without first understanding the past. Firsthand exploration of Athens (as of any large city) can require stamina and determination, but this is all part of the “journey,” as one follows a trail of archaeological discovery that imparts what it truly means, and has meant for thousands of years, to be a feeling, thinking, creatively expressive human being. Athens offers a panoply of historical, architectural and artistic riches, from majestic ruins and golden artifacts to simple grave enclosures, overgrown ancient streams and panoramic hilltop views. Often, it is the city’s humbler monuments and less conspicuous sights that “speak” to us in the clearest voice.

Bronze statue of Poseidon, found in the sea near Livadostra in Viotia, the port of Plataea, and dating back to 480 BC, as displayed in the temporary exhibition “Odysseys” that celebrates the National Archaeological Museum’s 150th anniversary.

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NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Athenian museums, an essential starting point on any tour, just get better and better. Through them, visitors come face to face with the full scope of Greek history and culture, from prehistoric times through to the present day. The National Archaeological Museum (NAM), the mother ship of the city’s museums, turned 150 years old in October 2016. As part of its festivities, NAM mounted an exhibition, “Odysseys,” running through the end of September 2017, which presents nearly 200 artifacts garnered from both the museum’s permanent galleries and the cloistered recesses of its back rooms. Most impressive, besides the statues, painted vases and other objects themselves, is the creativity and progressiveness expressed by the exhibition’s designers. Through displays such as this one, as well as its previous Antikythera Wreck exhibition that was extended by popular demand, NAM continues to show that it is no staid national museum willing to rest on the laurels of its permanent collections. The “Odysseys” exhibition is an ex-

periential, thought-provoking, thematic presentation, which follows the tale of Homer’s timeless character, but uses his adventures and struggles as a point of departure to address larger issues, including man’s quest for knowledge and scope for achievement, as well as the themes of prosperity, seafaring and homecoming. The added atmospheric effects of pleasant music, blue sea-like lighting and the words of great modern Greek poets inspired by Homer make “Odysseys” a must-see. And don’t miss NAM’s world-famous attractions, including the “Mask of Agamemnon,” the well-muscled Kouros figures, the serenely powerful Zeus/Poseidon, the colorful, naturalistic wall paintings from Santorini and an array of individualistic portraits and larger marble statues from Hellenistic and Roman times.

i l 44 Patission • Tel. (+30) 213.214.4800 • Open: Mon 13:00-20:00, Tue-Sun: 08:00-20:00 • General admission: 10€ • www.namuseum.gr

Jockey of Artemision (Hellenistic, circa 140 BC). This outstanding bronze statue has a height of 2.10m and was recovered in pieces from the seabed off Cape Artemision, northern Evia, in 1928 and 1937. The young rider, possibly African, would have held the reins of the galloping horse in his left hand and a whip in his right. The rendering of his puckered face reveals agitation and passion.

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ACROPOLIS MUSEUM At the Acropolis Museum, voted 9th best in the world by TripAdvisor users, one ascends the ramp of the Acropolis Slopes Gallery just as they might climb the Sacred Rock itself. With delights around every corner, visitors are treated to such Archaic and Classical sculpture masterpieces as the Calf Bearer, the Peplos Kore, the Kritios Boy and the flowing-robed Nike Adjusting Her Sandal. Crowning the ultra-modern museum is the Parthenon Gallery, where one sees up close the temple’s amazing Ionic frieze and metope panels with their finely carved scenes of gods, knights, offering-bearers and drunken, lecherous centaurs. Through enormous glass windows, visitors have a visual connection with the actual Parthenon, the gleaming, newly restored Thrasyllus Monument and other gems of the Acropolis.

i l 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou • Tel. (+30) 210.900.0900 • Open: Mon 8:00-16:00, Fri 8:00-22:00, Tue-Thu & Sat-Sun 8:00-20:00 • General admission: €5 • www.theacropolismuseum.gr

In the Archaic Acropolis Gallery, visitors can see all sides of the free-standing sculptures in order to better appreciate their craftsmanship and beauty.

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Wall paintings and (background) the masonrybuilt 17th-c. iconostasis of the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin (Diocese) of Evrytania. The iconostasis features depictions of the Great Prayer (Megali Deisi), Christ Pantocrator, Panagia Odigitria and saints.

BYZANTINE AND CHRISTIAN MUSEUM Housed in the Villa Ilissia, one of the most beautiful 19th-century buildings erected in the young capital of the modern Greek State, the Byzantine and Christian Museum (BCM) offers a different historical perspective, with lavish displays of Early Christian, medieval and early modern artifacts, icons and other church-related items. The BCM’s dramatic, cutting-edge displays and informative signage draw visitors into the fascinating world of Byz-

antium and Orthodoxy. Not to be missed is the temporary exhibition titled “100 Years Art Group,” a fascinating journey through the early stages of modern Greek art.

i l 22 Vasilissis Sofias • Tel. (+30) 213.213.9500, 213.213.9517 • Open: Mon-Sun: 8:0020:00 • General admission: €8 • Free admission to those under 18 • www.byzantinemuseum.gr

WONDERS

BENAKI MUSEUM

A display of traditional costumes from various regions of Greece.

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A panorama of the Greek world is presented through a large collection of objects spanning millennia of history. Most memorable, perhaps, are the museum’s more recent artifacts detailing the daily life and struggles of Greeks in the 19th and early 20th centuries, a period covering both the Greek War of Independence and the forced evacuation of Asia Minor. Currently, a temporary exhibition, “Liquid Antiquity” (to September 17) draws on selected artifacts and video-recorded interviews with artists

to consider the enduring influence of classicism on contemporary art.

i l 1 Koumbari & Vas. Sofias • Tel. (+30) 210.367.1000 • Open: Wednesday and Friday: 9:00 - 17:00, Thursday, Saturday: 9:00 00:00, Sunday: 9:00 - 15:00, (closed Mon & Tues) • General admission: €9 (Temporary Exhibition: €7) • Free admission to the permanent exhibition every Thursday • www.benaki.gr

WONDERS

“Offering a Toast,” a rare type of marble figurine dating back to the Early Cycladic II period (28002300 BC). The figure sits on a stool and holds up a cup in his right hand, as if to offer a toast or a libation.

MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART Modern art is also the theme of two current temporary exhibitions at the nearby Museum of Cycladic Art (MCA). The show “Deste Prize: An Anniversary Exhibition 1999-2015,” which runs to September 17, presents the works of young contemporary artists, while “Divine Dialogues” (to September 3) explores the influence of Classical Antiquity on the work of the late American artist Cy Twombly through the juxtaposition of selected drawings and sculptures with ancient artifacts. The MCA’s permanent collections focus on Cycladic Early Bronze Age culture (3rd millennium BC), highlighted by stunning marble figurines and other marble and bronze objects. On the upper floors, visitors are treated to excellent thematic displays, including an exhibit titled “Scenes from Daily Life in Antiquity,” which cover Greek culture from the Middle Bronze Age through the Roman era (4th c. AD). Also not to be missed is the MCA’s Cypriot collection, presented thematically and spanning millennia of rich Cypriot history.

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4 Neophytou Douka, Kolonaki • Tel. (+30) 210.722.8321-3 • Open: Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat: 10:00- 17:00, Thu: 10:00-20:00, Sun: 11:00-17:00 (closed Tue) • General admission: €7 (Mon: €3.50) • www.cycladic.gr/en

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T raditional tastes in the heart of the city With a history spanning three generations, the Kostarelos dairy is renowned all over Greece and abroad for its high-quality, delicious cheeses. So when the owners decided to open a modern deli in the stylish Kolonaki district in central Athens, it was certain to become a foodie destination in its own right. At the welcoming, stylish Kostarelos store, you can either taste or buy the full range of their excellent products, such as their award-winning feta (soft, hard, or matured for 12 months), their low-fat graviera, their kefalotyri aged for 24 months, and their velvety strained yogurts. And if the mere sight and smell of the products whets your appetite for a proper breakfast or lunch, there’s plenty to choose from: fresh salads, hot and cold sandwiches, a splendid Greek cheese fondue, as well as a unique platter with samples of 20 fine cheeses from all over Greece. Make sure to try one of their summer-only sandwich recipes, such as the tsalafouti (a type of cream cheese) with roast chicken, yoghurt, carrots and roasted red peppers. • 30-32

Patriarchou Ioakim, Kolonaki • Tel. (+30) 210.725.9000 • www.kostarelos.gr kolonaki@kostarelos.gr • Open Mon-Fri: 8:00-22:00, Sat: 8:00-22:00

• Email:

WONDERS

Ascending the Rock A pilgrimage to the Acropolis to admire the great Parthenon is essential, but there’s more to see here as well. Athena’s imposing Doric temple is unquestionably the star, but, as in the museums, attention must also be given to the small details of other, sometimes more evocative relics. The Erechtheion, in the Parthenon’s northern shadow, also stands as a tribute to the Golden Age of Periclean Athens, but it offers its own distinctive architectural elegance and evidence of Classical ingenuity. Its architect, perhaps the innovative Mnesicles who designed the nearby Propylaia, brought together all the Acropolis’ traditional religious cults under one roof in a unique, composite structure smoothly adapted to uneven ground. The Erechtheion features projecting colonnaded or Caryatid-adorned porches; finely carved but unfinished moldings (the sculptors’ work was interrupted by the Peloponnesian War); and “windows” in the North Porch’s roof and floor that (as ancient Greek art scholar Jeffrey Hurwit noted) allowed a direct metaphysical connection to be retained between the heavens above and the visible scars in the bedrock below – said to have been left by Zeus’ thunderbolt, hurled to Earth to interrupt the contest between Athena and Poseidon over rights to the city of Athens.

i l Dionysiou Areopagitou • Tel. (+30) 210.321.4172 • Open daily: 8:00-20:00 • General admission: €20 (There is also a €30 ticket allowing admission to all main archaeological sites in Athens.)

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63 © MINISTRY OF CULTURE AND SPORTS/EPHORATE OF ANTIQUITIES OF ATHENS

Marble bust from the Stoa of Attalos Museum. Exhibits on the museum’s upper floor include idealized figures of gods and mortals (4th-3rd century BC) and Roman portraits of wealthy Athenians depicted in Roman Imperial style (1st2nd c. BC).

A Stroll Through the Market

As one descends the Acropolis, passing the freshly restored Propylaia and the Temple of Athena Nike, a glance down to the right reveals the Athenian Agora, the central marketplace, political nucleus and popular meeting point for ancient Athenians. In addition to the Agora’s maze of fascinating ruins and an excellent small museum of daily ancient life in the resurrected Stoa of Attalos, the site also boasts the Temple of Hephaestus and Athena – known as the Hephaisteion (or Theseion) – which is remarkably well preserved. Here, one gains a fuller sense of the impact that a towering Doric temple, strikingly similar to the contemporaneous Parthenon, made on the human consciousness some 2,500 years ago. The reason behind its stunning present-day condition was its early conversion (7th c. AD) to a Christian house of worship, the Church of Saint George. A stroll through the Agora takes you in the footsteps of Socrates, Pericles and other great historical characters.

i l 24 Adrianou • Tel. (+30) 210.321.0185 • Open daily: 8:00-20:00 • Admission: €8

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Athens’ Own “Roman Forum” The Romans, too, contributed to the architectural enhancement of ancient Athens, with Julius Caesar and his adopted nephew Augustus funding the establishment of a new agora, or forum, east of the original one. Among this market’s columns, visitors can spot shallow circular carvings in the steps, intended as standard measures for checking quantities of goods being exchanged, while faintly scratched inscriptions advertise the services or stake out the territory of prostitutes. Of particular note is the octagonal Tower of the Winds, a focal point of the area and a monument

to the ingenuity of ancient engineering. Once capped with a revolving bronze vane that pointed to relief-carved depictions of the eight winds, the tower served as both a public weather station and a time-piece: several sundials adorned its exterior walls, while a water-driven clock inside revealed the hour of the day even when the sky was overcast.

i l Pelopida, Plaka • Tel. (+30) 210.324.5220 • Open daily: 8:00-17:00 • General admission: €6

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Verdant area around the river Ilissos, as captured by Frederic Boissonnas in 1910. distinguished the Olympieion and the Acropolis. From “Athens: The City, the People, the Events,” published by the Historical and Ethnological Society of Greece, Athens 2014. (Photographic Archive of the National Historical Museum 1859-1990)

Hidden Waters

Like many ancient cities, Athens was dependent on natural springs, streams and piped-in water to keep a thirsty population sated. Traces of the city’s “rivers” (how much water they carried depended on the season) can be found at various sites. The Ilissos, descending from Mt. Hymettus and supplemented by the copious Kallirroe Spring, can still be seen adjacent to the Church of Agia Fotini (near the Olympieion), while a remnant of the city’s Hadrianic aqueduct survives at Dexameni (“Reservoir”) Square in Kolonaki. Deep within the Monastiraki Metro Station, the gurgling sounds of Athens’ other main stream, the Eridanos, continue to fill the air as its waters flow through an ancient canalized, brick-vaulted channel, now on display for visitors and commuters.

Spartans Honored in Athens

Olympieion • Entrance from 1 Vasilissis Olgas • Tel. (+30) 210.922.6330 • Open daily: 8:00-20:00 • Admission: €6

The Eridanos River appears again at Kerameikos, the site of ancient Athens’ northwestern gates and its extra-mural cemetery. This peaceful, grassy archaeological park, crossed by the reedy, frog-inhabited Eridanos, is a welcome refuge in the center of the modern city, particularly in winter and spring. Here you’ll find the Sacred Gate, opening toward the distant Demeter Sanctuary at Eleusis (Elefsina); the Pompeion and the Dipylon Gate, from which the annual Panathenaic Procession to the Acropolis began; and, most remarkably, an inconspicuous, walled tomb whose still-legible inscription identifies the historically ironic, state-sponsored burial of thirteen Spartan officers – in a cemetery ostensibly belonging to their arch-rivals. The Athenian oligarchs of 403 BC, in trying to suppress the rebellious democrats led by Thrasybulus, had sought the aid of the equally anti-democratic Spartans and subsequently honored their dead officers with a proper burial after an unsuccessful battle in Piraeus.

Monastiraki Metro Station • Monastiraki Square Open: Sun- Thu 5:30-00:30; Fri, Sat: 5:30-02:30 • Admission is the price of the Metro ticket (€1.40 full/€0.60 reduced)

148 Ermou • Tel. (+30) 210.346.3552 • Open daily: 8:00-20:00 • General admission: €8

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A Venue for Athletic Excellence Contemporaneous with the Lysikrates Monument was the Panathenaic Stadium (ca. 330 BC), known today as the Kallimarmaro. Erected in a hollow between the hills of Agra and Ardettos on the southern bank of the Ilissos river, the horseshoe-shaped stadium was used for games held during religious celebrations such as the Panathenaic Festival. Athletic competition and prowess were held in high esteem in Greco-Roman times, much like today, and the Kallimarmaro stands as an evocative tribute to those 70

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original ancient ideals. Completely veneered in white Pentelic marble by Herodes Atticus (2nd c. AD), the stadium eventually fell into decline, but it was unearthed in the 19th c. and splendidly re-marbled as a venue for the first modern Olympics in 1896.

i l Vasileos Konstantinou • Tel. (+30) 210.752.2984 • Open daily: 8:00-19:00 • General admission: €5 • www.panathenaicstadium.gr

When the Panathenaic Stadium was first “marble-ized” by Herodes Atticus, it was said the lavish refurbishment had exhausted all the marble in Mt. Penteli’s quarries.

a c u linary instit u tion “Vassilenas” restaurant is a part of the city’s history, the place where owner Thanassis Vassilenas continues a century-old culinary family legacy.

After serving customers for 96 years in its Piraeus location, where the likes of Winston Churchill and Elia Kazan, T.S. Elliot and René Clair, Romy Schneider and Sofia Loren, Irene Papas and Melina Mercouri have dined, the most historic restaurant of the city has recently relocated to the Hilton Hotel area. The new state-of-the-art space was designed by renowned architects Maria Kokkinou and Andreas Kourkoulas. With its Santorini volcanic pumice-stone walls, it reflects the urban glamour of the 60s. Architecturally it seems to be “conversing” with the flagship Hilton building just across the road while a stunning lighting effect is created by the hundreds of illuminated wine bottles suspended from the ceiling. Since 2008, year after year, the restaurant has been receiving important culinary awards for its Greek creative cuisine. Here you’ll enjoy high gastronomy that focuses on sea dishes such as fresh prawn-and-amberjack tartar or fish soup prepared with brown grouper.

Those who prefer meat, can savour dishes such as beef skirt or slow cooked lamb. The seven-dish signature tasting menu is a unique, not to be missed experience. “Vassilenas” was the first restaurant in Greece to introduce the concept, back in 1929. Apart from offering fine dining, the restaurant’s Sommelier seduces wine lovers with suggestions on wine pairing from the over 150 Greek and international selections kept in the impressive walk-in cellar that dominates the dining area. “Vassilenas” is located in the center of Athens, within walking distance from the Athens Concert Hall and the Byzantine Museum and easily accessible by taxi or metro. The highly professional staff will welcome you for a memorable gastronomic experience with Greek flavors which are guaranteed to awaken your senses.

13, Vrasida Str., Athens (Hilton area) | Tel. (+30) 210.721.0501, www.vassilenas.gr, Email: info@vassilenas.gr, Open: Mon-Sat 13:00-01:00 | Facebook/Instagram: VassilenasRestaurant

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Vassilenas

WONDERS

For Love of GreecE In addition to improving Athens’ water supply, the Roman emperor Hadrian, a renowned philhellene, also established what has come to be called his Library, near the Roman Agora. It may have been not only a repository for manuscripts and a center of learning, but also a new public forum – in a style similar to the imperial forums erected in Rome. (Later, in the 5th c. AD, an Early Christian tetraconch, or four-apsed, church was built in the Library’s central courtyard; it

may have served as Athens’ first cathedral.) In another act of imperial benefaction, Hadrian also completed the Temple of Olympian Zeus – more than 600 years after it was first laid out by the tyrant Peisistratus! Standing beside this gargantuan Corinthian temple, one cannot help but marvel, not only at the enormity of its scale but also at the scope of the imagination required from both Greeks and Romans for its conception and successful realization.

i l The Library of Hadrian • 3 Areos and Adrianou, Monastiraki • Tel. (+30) 210.324.9350 • Open daily: 8:00-15:00 • Admission: €4

The temple of Olympian Zeus, with the Acropolis in the background.

A Long Shadow

Only a fraction the size of the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Lysikrates Monument nevertheless casts a long shadow in the history of ancient Greek architecture. Once linked by a road to the Theater of Dionysus (the birthplace of drama) and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, the Lysikrates Monument was originally flanked by other choregic monuments – self-aggrandizing tributes erected by theatrical producers to celebrate their victories in dramatic contests. Today, it stands alone in Plaka, an expression of architectural innovation and cultural creativity – the earliest example (335 BC) of Corinthian-style columns in an exterior setting. Decorated with relief panels depicting Dionysus’ kidnapping 72

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by pirates, whom he punitively transformed into dolphins, the hollow cylindrical structure was essentially an ornamental base for Lysikrates’ tripod prize. In 1669, it was incorporated into a Capuchin Franciscan friary and later converted into a small study used by Lord Byron (ca. 1810), when he temporarily resided at the monastery.

i l Today, music and theater enthusiasts can again appreciate great entertainment in the reconstructed Odeon of Herodes Atticus, during Athens’ annual summer festival • For information on this season’s program, tickets, box offices and venues, visit www.greekfestival.gr • Tel. (+30) 210.928.2900

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Once again this summer, a cool oasis awaits you in the form of St’ Astra Blue, the roof garden of the Radisson Blu Park Hotel. In the morning, refresh yourself with a swim in the rooftop pool, which offers a bird’s-eye view of the green park below, while in the evening treat yourself to some culinary delights at the restaurant, where you will revel in the panoramic view of Athens that it provides. The kitchen is overseen by Kostas Tsigkas, a philosophically minded chef, who has developed a comfort/health food-centered menu, with an emphasis on superfoods, such as the salad with kale, cranberries, Stilton cheese and caramelized onions, or the fresh cod crudo with yuzu, radishes, Espelette pepper and saffron.

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The menu also features classic, Mediterranean-influenced dishes, such as lamb with smoked eggplant and Moroccan tahini, or cod with shellfish in bouillabaisse sauce from the south of France. A standout dish is the barbecue with grilled-to-order meat (ribeye, skirt steak), seafood and vegetables, while the desserts will put a delightful finishing touch on your meal. Located on the upper deck, the highest part of the roof, the bar offers refreshing cocktails to the sounds of lounge bossa nova and Latin jazz, while the view of the Acropolis, Lycabettus Hill and the city lights will inspire you. A perfect place for sunset parties, cocktail parties and private receptions.

Radisson Blu Park Hotel Athens • 10 Alexandras Avenue • Tel. (+30) 210.889.4500, 210.889.4517

• Opening • The

hours: Sun-Thu 20:00–23:30, Fri & Sat 20:00–00:00 bar is open until 01:00 • The hotel offers free parking.

WONDERS

The Hills of Athens No one visiting Athens should miss the panoramic views from its numerous hills, which once represented religious and cultural focal points – places of worship, justice, democratic exercise and social recognition in the ancient city. West of the Acropolis are the Areopagus, Pnyx and Hill of the Muses (Filopappou Hill), home respectively to Athens’ highest court, its Popular Assembly (Ekklesia) and the monumental Roman-era tomb of Prince Gaius Philo-

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pappos, a respected royal refugee from the ancient Armenian kingdom of Commagene. The wooded Ardettos Hill, beside the Kallimarmaro, was the site of a Temple of Tyche (Fortuna), whose foundations are still visible. Lykavittos’ ancient summit lay bare of temples, but today it’s crowned by the distinctive Church of Aghios Georgios (1870). Further away, the slopes of Mt Hymettus and Mt Penteli bear the discernible scars of ancient marble quarries.

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Nice n Easy D e l i c i o u s f oo d t h at ’ s goo d f o r y o u , t oo ! Organic, sustainable, locally sourced products of the highest quality, prepared according to healthy recipes to suit any dietary need: this, in short, is the philosophy of the Nice n Easy Restaurant Group’s popular dining venues, operating in Kolonaki, the most stylish area of central Athens; in Kifissia, the elegant northern Athenian suburb; and on the beautiful island of Mykonos. The farm-to-table approach is expressed in a wide variety of Greek-Mediterranean and international comfort food dishes, and the menu provides information on the nutritional value and calorie count of each item. There are many vegetarian and gluten-free options, too, as well as a diverse selection of drinks.

• Athens:

Nice n Easy Organic Bistros 60 Omirou & Skoufa, Tel. (+30) 210.361.7201 • Kifissia: 7 Papadiamanti, Tel. (+30) 210.808.2014

NE W B URSTS O F ART AND CREATI V ITY FR O M ETHNI K I INSURANCE C O MPANY Ethniki Insurance Company, the oldest insurance company in Greece with a 126-year history, isn’t just concerned about our physical safety; it’s also interested in our cultural and intellectual well-being. In April 2015, the company created the Art Place “STOart KORAI” inside the arcade in the center of Athens, to serve as a multi-functional place promoting both renowned visual artists and exciting new talents. In addition, researchers, students and anyone else with an interest in the field can access important information about Neohellenic Greek Art from 1845 to the present from the D. Papageorgopoulos Neohellenic Art Archive, which is being hosted on the first floor.

Painters Mina Papatheodorou-Valyraki, Rena Anoussis and sculptor Thodoros have had their works on exhibit at “STOart KORAI” since the beginning of the year. What’s more, a group exhibition titled “Seniors Competition of A.S.F.A. 2017” was held with the collaboration of the Athens School of Fine Arts. There is also a thematic exhibition titled: “75 years of Art Theater Karolos Koun - 75 objects”, organized in collaboration with the Art Theater Karolos Koun, takes place.

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A PRECI O US M O NUMENT IN THE HEART O F THE CITY K EEPS G REE K HIST O RY ALI V E The selection of the mansion at 4 Korai Street to house the Art Place is no coincidence. Owned by Ethniki Insurance Company, the building (which dates from 1938) is connected with one of the most dramatic periods of contemporary Greek history. During the Occupation, it was put under German control and its basements were used by the Kommandantur as detention areas for Greek and foreign citizens. On these basement walls, prisoners wrote (or scratched, using any sharp object they could find) messages, names, dates and drawings, thus preserving indelible mem-

ories of the horror and the fears of war for future generations. In 1991, these basement detention cells were restored and proclaimed a Listed Historical Monument under the name “Memorial Site 1941-1944”. This unique monument is open to the public, inviting guests, particularly young people, to “listen” to the walls narrate stories of people’s experiences during the occupation. The careful and constant operation of the Memorial Site by Ethniki Insurance reflects both the company’s belief in the principles of humanism and culture and its steadfast commitment to supporting society.

4 Stoa Korai (inside the arcade), Athens Tel. (+30) 210.325.2352 Email: info@stoart.gr Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00

OUR AT SIGHTS, SOUNDS

TAKE IT FROM THE TOP You can walk up (the ascent is pure calorie-burning fun) or take the 3-minute cable car ride to the top of Lycabettus Hill; in either case the view, from a height of 277m, is well worth it. The charming 18th-century Church of Aghios Georgios is the only thing that could possibly wrestle your attention from the sight of the metropolis that sprawls all the way down to the sea. Needless to say that, around sunset, there’s quite a competition among fellow visitors for the best spots to sit. If you get hungry or thirsty, there are two bar-restaurants. •

Cable Car Station • Ploutarchou and Aristippou • Runs from 9:00 to 02:30 • Tickets €7.50

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THENS A N D E X P E R I E N C E S T H AT de f ine T H e C H A R A C T E R o f this cit y

BY E L E F T H E R I A A L AVA N O U, M A R I A C OV E O U, NENA DIMITRIOU, MARIA KOR ACHAI, A L E X A N D R A M A N D R A KO U, A L E X A N D R A T Z AV E L L A

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International dialing code for Greece: (+30)

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WHERE AM I? A N A F I O T I K A , J U S T A B O V E T H E T O U R I S T district o f P L A K a , F E E L S L I K E A N I S L A N D

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OTTOMAN-ERA SURVIVOR

The Benizelou Mansion is the only Ottoman-era residence that survives in Athens. Among the members of the aristocratic family to whom it once belonged was Revoula Benizelou (1522-1589), who became a nun known as Filothei and was ultimately canonized for her selfless philanthropy. As such, the home is also referred to as the house of St Filothei the Athenian. Recently restored and opened as a museum, the home gives visitors a feel for life in the city as it was before the founding of the Greek state. The experience is enriched with video screenings, audio exhibits and interactive digital applications that are fun and engaging for children. • 96 Adrianou, Plaka • Tel. 210.324.8861 • Open Tue-Thu 10:0013:00, Sun 11:00-16:00

In the 19th century, as skilled builders from the Cycladic island of Anafi were completing King Otto’s palace in Athens, they grew nostalgic for their birthplace and began to create homes in the image of the ones they had left behind. Those homes still exist today, giving Anafiotika an island feel in the very center of the city, with stone pathways lined with

flowers (planted in old containers for oil or cheese), colorful shutters, ornate doorways and, of course, lots of cats. To reach it, walk uphill on Thrasyllou Street – it becomes Stratonos Street – until you reach the Church of Aghios Georgios of the Rock. You will certainly forget you are in Athens, unless you look up; the Acropolis is right there hovering above you. G R E E C E IS

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The CEREMONY THAT NEVER GETS OLD Every Sunday morning, a little before 11:00, people from every corner of the planet gather at Syntagma Square to watch the changing of the Presidential Guards, an elite corps known as the Evzones. Tourists whip out their smartphones to capture the official ceremony, where fustanella-clad men parade in front of the Monument of the Unknown Soldier, stomping their distinctive red tsarouchia (the special shoes of this military unit) in synch with the sounds of the National Anthem. It’s a wonderful ceremony, full of symbols and history. • Parliament Building, Syntagma Square, every Sunday at 11:00

THEY BUILT THIS GARDEN FOR US Athens is not exactly a garden city, which is all the more reason why its 170-year old, 15.5-hectare National (once Royal) Garden, between the Parliament and Zappeion Hall, is so precious. The oldest landscaped park in modern Greece, it features thousands of species of exotic and Mediterranean plants, including the 25m-tall Washingtonia trees that Queen Amalia herself planted in the 19th century. You can see remains of a Roman-era mosaic, a sundial, and a duck pond. Stop at the charming outdoor café for a nice cold beverage. • Open from sunrise to sunset. Entrance is free.

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A JOG TO REMEMBER

The Panathenaic Stadium (or, as it’s more commonly known, Kallimarmaro) is a magnet for recreational joggers. They mostly train along the horseshoe-shaped track that runs along the stadium’s outer walls next to pine-covered Ardittos Hill. With plenty of shade and soft ground, the 500m route has the added bonus of offering views of the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill along large stretches. The track is open from 7:30-21:30. One can also run in the stadium itself, 6:00-9:30. •

www.panathenaicstadium.gr

EXPERIENCES

TANGO IN THE NIGHT

LISTEN TO THE VOICES

Nearly eight years ago, a tango-loving couple brought a portable stereo down to a marble platform on a pedestrianized section of Ermou, near Pireos Street, and began to dance. Friends followed, the group got bigger and now every Monday “Street Dancing Milonga,” as it’s called, brings together people of every age from all the dance schools in Athens, some even sporting proper tango shoes. Even the sound system has been upgraded. Ermou & Pireos, Mondays 22:00-very late.

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This is one of the most interesting guided walks out there, especially because there’s no guide. Install the free app MCMS (My City My Sounds), then search and download the Rhizome II English Version and make your way to any part of either Metaxourgeio or Kerameikos. The app will locate your position via GPS and, once you’re in place, it will begin the playback of an immersive soundscape that includes narration, interviews and even recordings of hawkers selling their goods. The tour lasts two and a half hours.

SWEAT IT ALL OUT

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Shopping street

A century ago, Ermou was the main commercial street for a growing middle class that could afford fine goods such as foreign fabrics; today, major outlets, top brands, buskers, peddlers, locals and tourists alike all rub shoulders along the length of its pedestrianized section, which starts opposite Syntagma Square. As you walk towards Monastiraki, you’ll come across the 11th-c. Kapnikarea Church, situated somewhat incongruously in the middle of the street; you can sit ouside to indulge in some people-watching, but it’s also worth a glimpse inside.

Al Hammam is a small-capacity (up to 8 people) traditional bathhouse in Plaka. Lie on the warm marble, breathe deeply in the steam bath and place yourself in the hands of experts equipped with a ketse (a special sponge for exfoliation) foaming with natural olive oil soap. Get your hair washed and your body massaged. There are many services available and special offers for couples. You can, of course, combine different options as you wish. Tea is served afterwards and you leave Al Hammam relieved and replenished. Starting from €25. • 16 Tripodon, Plaka • Tel. 211.012.9099

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T he S mart A ccommodation C hoice in Athens Planning to travel to the capital of Greece? Make the smart choice, and book a room at the recently renovated Titania Hotel. Its convenient location on Panepistimiou Avenue in the heart of the city means you’ll have the best of sightseeing, shopping and entertainment literally at your feet. Enjoy your stay in one of the hotel’s elegant rooms or suites, all featuring luxurious facilities, and avail yourself of the Titania’s excellent services. For a scrumptious coffee-and-dessert break or a light lunch, the cozy La Brasserie in the hotel lobby is the ideal spot. For the perfect conclusion to your day, head up to the hotel’s 11th floor, where the Olive Garden Bar & Restaurant offers amazing views of the Acropolis, Lycabettus Hill and the Saronic Gulf. Enjoy a romantic dinner or a signature cocktail in this incomparable setting, with the city lights twinkling below. Let your Athens journey begin at Titania, and feel the heartbeat of the city.

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Panepistimiou • Tel. (+30) 210.3326.000 • www.titania.gr

EXPERIENCES

CONNECTING EARTH & UNIVERSE This summer, science meets art at the National Observatory of Athens, the oldest research institution in Greece (founded in 1842). Atop the Hill of the Nymphs, with an uncluttered view of the Parthenon, the beautiful building designed by Danish architect Theophil Hansen is adorned by “The Theater of Disappearance,” a major site-specific installation by celebrated Argentinian artist Adriàn Villar Rojas, featuring 46,000 plants. It’s an impressive piece of work, but don’t miss out on the Astrogeophysics Museum, housing clocks, telescopes and other 19th-century instruments. • Lofos Nymphon, Thiseio • Τel. 210.349.0000 • www.noa.gr

TREASURES OF ISLAM

Embark on a journey through the evolution of Islamic civilization from its beginnings through to the 19th century at the Benaki Museum of Islamic Art, housed in a neo-classical building complex near the ancient cemetery of Kerameikos. Its collections comprise more than 12,000 works of art from as far away as India, North Africa and Spain, with two carved wooden memorial door panels from 8th c. Mesopotamia considered the prize items. The museum’s café, with its colorful murals and great views of the Acropolis and Philopappou Hill, is ideal for a break. • 22 Asomaton & 12 Dipylou • Tel. 210.325.1311 • Open Thu-Sun 10.00-18:00

A WALK IN THE PARK

An 18.6-hectare oasis just 8k from the center of Athens, the Julia and Alexander N. Diomedes Botanical Gardens features 500 plant species in its intentionally overgrown part and more than 2,500 plants from all over the world in its cultivated section. The plants are organized by categories such as ornamental, medicinal, aromatic and historic, and there’s a seed bank as well. Take a leisurely stroll under blooming pergolas or try an official tour to get the most of it. Bring a sandwich – picnic tables abound. • 403 Iera Odos • Tel. 210.581.1557 • Open: Mon-Fri 8:00-sunset, Sat-Sun 10:00-sunset. Entrance is free.

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MAISON KRUG + ARI VEZENÉ A flash chat with Ari Vezené on the subject of broadening one’s horizons and officially joining the family of international ambassadors of the iconic Krug Champagne house.

vezene.gr

W hat does V e z en é mean ?  Two things, really: it’s a precision scale that was used by naval merchants during the early 1900s in the Ionian Sea, and it’s my family’s nickname, which actually turned into our last name during WWII.

W hat do y ou f eel y our restauran T REPRESENTS? We cook for ourselves, for our families, and for you, with honesty and intimacy, as if you’d been invited into our homes. We take our culinary cues from the elegant simplicity of a bistro while honoring the timeless recipes that were lovingly passed on to us from our mothers and grandmothers.

what is it that y ou identi f y with in the philosoph y o f K rug ?  Persistence without compromise is a value that we share. To always create a product of such quality, complexity, consistency and individuality that its main goal is to deliver a memorable experience.

H ow do y ou interpret creativit y ?  Creativity doesn’t necessarily mean doing something that nobody else has done before. It means doing something that everybody can do, but doing it in ways that nobody expects.

W here do y ou think G reek gastronom y stands today ?   Historically, Greek cuisine has charted a nautical course within a widespread Mediterranean cuisine, a path where every traveler brought their own influences, ingredients, techniques and overall philosophy. I think that the period we’re in right now is the ideal moment for Greek gastronomy to bring all these cultures together and create a clear message.

PROMOTION

Born in New York of Greek immigrant parents, Ari is the self-taught chef and butcher of eponymous Vezené, a timelessly classic Greek bistro bar that opened in Athens in 2011. He garnered widespread acclaim for a number of gastronomic achievements: for heading up the first restaurant in Athens to pair traditional Greek recipes with whole animal butchery; for seafood dishes that blend the land and the sea; and for the extensive dry ageing of his lamb, goat and game, a process which creates complex flavor profiles. His culinary technique of choice is cooking over a wood fire. He is also well known for his delicious GrecoRoman-influenced wood-fired savory pies, and as the creator of the “instapopular” ice cream dessert called “Ari’s Deal Closer,” served as tribute to his New York origins.

ÂŠ DIONYSIS KOURIS

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SLOWING DOWN A R E O P A G I T O U is one o f the most scenic promenades in the world If you only have a few hours in the city, this is where you should be spending them. Areopagitou Street has the Acropolis on one side and grand neoclassical buildings (as well as modern architecture) on the other. Along the cobbled street, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find street performers and vendors. Of particular note is the often-overlooked artistry of the celebrated architect Dimitris Pikionis, who, in the 1950s, landscaped the entire site around the Acropolis and Philopappos Hill, incorporating paved footpaths, rest spots and the one-of-a-kind Church of Aghios Dimitrios Loumpardiaris.

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What’s the best way to start your day and share wonderful moments with your friends and family? Well, the answer to that is simple – Flocafe Espresso Room! Known for its premium coffee blends, special beverages and snacks, Flocafe Espresso Room has launched a brunch menu which has already become the ultimate talk of the town. With eggs as the star of the menu, your choices are many, and they’re all irresistibly tempting! From all-time classic recipes such as fluffy omelets and eggs benedict with salmon to the Flocafe Espresso Room’s signature version with bacon and grated French fries or the favorite eggs-in-a-hole, it’s no wonder that their brunch has become a beloved everyday habit for so many people! Since brunch could never be complete without a sweet

sin, try the delicious pancakes, served with forest fruits and vanilla cream or with praline and hazelnut croquant, the French toast, or the soufflé made with tsoureki (a brioche-like sweetbread), crème anglaise and raisins. For the healthy eaters among you, Flocafe Espresso Room’s brunch offers options to satisfy even the most demanding health-conscious guests. Create your own nutricious bowl with cereals, oat flakes, granola, superfoods, fruits and honey, served with milk, yogurt, soya or almond milk, or enjoy one of their three refreshing smoothies. Don’t miss the fresh salads with quinoa or with mixed vegetables and a breaded poached egg. So wait no longer, visit Flocafe Espresso Room and enjoy the ultimate brunch experience!

Brunch is served daily until 5pm at the following stores: The Mall Athens, Maroussi, Tel. (+30) 210.610.7350 • Athens Metro Mall, Ag. Dimitrios, Tel. (+30) 210.975.8892 • Golden Hall, Maroussi, Tel. (+30) 210.683.9734 • Glyfada, 8 Lazaraki & N. Zerva, Tel. (+30) 210.898.2290 • Nea Erythrea, 146 Harilaou Trikoupi & Strofiliou, Tel. (+30) 210.620.4082 • Delta Falirou, 1 Old Poseidonos & Moraitini, Tel. (+30) 210.941.1070 • Ilion, Escape Center Mall, 67A Dimokratias Ave, Pyrgos Vasilissis, Tel. (+30) 210.232.3510 • Kifissia, 40 Kyriazi & Kassaveti, Tel. (+30) 210.808.4303

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THE FUTURE IS NOW In 2014, the planting of a single 3.5m tall olive tree was the symbolic first step towards the creation of Athens’ newest park. Today, the Stavros Niarchos Park boasts 1,450 trees and 280,000 bushes, making it a vital green space that never fails to impress visitors. But don’t let it monopolize your interest, as the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, designed by the renowned architectural firm Renzo Piano Building Workshop, has many more marvels up its sleeve. There is the innovative 28,000 sq.m. building of the Greek National Opera that promises a new era in the institution’s history; the National Library, which can house up to one million books over its 23,000 sq. m. expanse; and the saltwater canal that provides an additional metaphorical link between the waterfront center and the sea. 364 Sygrou Avenue, Kallithea • Tel. 216.809.1000 • Daily tours in Greek and English • Free transfer via shuttle bus from Syntagma Square and from the Sygrou Fix Metro Station • www.snfcc.org/events.

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ENLIGHTENMENT IN A BOX

WHO CARES ABOUT THE MOVIE? Athens has dozens of open-air cinemas, but the most enchanting are found nestled beneath the Acropolis. Get a taste of old-world movie charm at Cine Thisio, which first opened in 1935. Aside from popcorn and soft drinks, the snack bar also offers traditional Greek products to enjoy with your movie, such as home-made spoon sweets, gourmet Greek fish roe (avgotaracho), wine and fiery tsipouro. Even older is Cine Paris, which began operating in 1920 and has a wonderful view of the Acropolis. In Greece, all foreign films (except children’s films) are shown in their original language with Greek subtitles. • •

Cine Thisio: 7 Apostolou Pavlou, Thiseio • Tel. 210.342.0864 • www.cine-thisio.gr Cine Paris: 22 Kydathineon, Plaka • Tel. 210.322.2071 • www.cineparis.gr

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Interactive, fun and kid-friendly, the Digital Museum is located in the neighborhood where Plato founded his school of philosophy, the Academy, around 387 BC. Built like a box with one exit and one entrance to symbolize the path to enlightenment, the purpose of this museum is to create a link between modern-day Athens and the life and teachings of the ancient philosopher. • Digital Museum • Monastiriou & 1 Kreontos, Akadimia Platonos • Open Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00 • Admission free.

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Α ΒΙΤ CLOSER TO THE SKY when it ’ s hot, T H E O N LY W AY I S U P

In summer, Athenians customarily gather on rooftops and balconies for dinner and drinks. From the Metropolis Roof Garden of the Electra Metropolis Hotel (15 Mitropoleos), you’ll feel like you can reach out and touch the Acropolis while enjoying Mediterranean cuisine or sipping cocktails. At the luxurious Roof Garden of the Hotel Grande Bretagne (1 Vas. Georgiou), with views of the Acropolis, the Parliament Building and Lycabettus Hill, you’ll think you’re floating above Syntagma Square. Relax in this tasteful oasis, perfect for classic cocktails in the company of a highly cosmopolitan crowd. On the rooftop of Athens Was (5 Dionysiou Areopagitou), a few steps from the base of the Acropolis, you’ll find the recently-opened Sense, a gourmet restaurant with a kitchen led by the promising young chef Thodoris Papanikolaou. Here, you can try superb examples of creative Greek cuisine incorporating innovative culinary techniques, as you take in a wonderful view of the city. 92

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COOL RELIEF Unlike many city hotel swimming pools, in the outdoor pool of the Athens Hilton you can actually swim. A full 25m long, 15m wide and up to 4m deep, the pool is also open to non-guests and offers a refuge to those who are stuck in the city heat (although at the rather hefty price of €25 on weekdays and €45 on weekends). This season, every Thursday and Friday, it’ll be open at night too (21:00-01:00), with DJs spinning cool tunes and cocktails delivered to your moonbed – all for a reasonable €10 entrance fee. • 46 Vas. Sofias • Tel. 210.728.1000

Enchantment by the lake

It’s not just the balmy water temperature (a steady 22-29°C) that makes bathers return here all year round, it’s the sheer beauty of the place, with its emerald waters and imposing rock face. Vouliagmeni Lake also has a mysterious side, thanks to its labyrinthine underwater cave system. The facilities include an all-day bar-restaurant while complimentary spa services are provided by the lake’s permanent residents, the tiny black Garra rufa fish that like to nibble at your dead skin cells the moment you step into the water; it’s a natural exfoliation treatment like no other. • Tel. 210.896.2237 • www. limnivouliagmenis.gr • Admission €12 on weekdays, €13 on weekends. 94

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A STAR AMONG BEACHES A heady blend of pine forest and sea; a central road named after Apollo, the god of music and light; a series of small discreet coves for private dips and, of course, Astir Beach. For nearly 60 years, right here at Vouliagmeni and the Lemos peninsula is where Athens’ most cosmopolitan beach has sat, gazing benevolently over the Saronic Gulf from its prime vantage point. At this well-serviced beach, you can book a sun lounger or a spa appointment, avail yourself of the special amenities at the Platinum Lounge, use the free Wi-Fi, or take part in any number of water sports at the Astir Ski Club. There’s also an outdoor non-smoking area. •

40 Apollonos,Vouliagmeni • Tel. 210.890.1619 • www.astir-beach.com • Admission: Mon-Fri €18, €30 (reserved area), Sat, Sun €28, €50 (reserved area)

Celebrity Island

It’s not really an island, but the Island Club Restaurant in Varkiza sure feels like one, what with its handy floating dock (where you can tie up your boat, if you’re doing Athens by sea) and its commanding sea views. International celebrities and jet-setters are regulars here; they enjoy its famous dance parties, its creative Mediterranean dishes and its superb sushi menu. No wonder this is the hottest spot on the Athens Riviera. • 27th kilometer Athens-Sounio Road, Varkiza • Tel. 210.965.3563-4 • www.islandclubrestaurant.gr

DRINKS AHOY!

If you’re traveling with kids, an all-time classic pastime is strolling along the Palaio Faliro coastal strip that runs from the Trocadero Tram Stop to Edem. Buy corn on the cob from a vendor and lead the way to the huge playground in Flisvos Park, which comes equipped with picnic kiosks and a place where you can rent pedal go-karts. Then, head to the Flisvos Marina and enjoy an ice cream among the yachts; you might pay a visit to the old passenger vessel Neraida (neraida.org), once owned by Greek shipping tycoon Yiannis Latsis, which has been turned into a floating museum. TRAM Syntagma-SEF line (Trokadero, Parko Flisvou, Flisvos and Batis stops) or Syntagma-Asklipio Voulas line (Panagitsa and Edem stops). •

The Alimos Marina was still under construction in September 1987 when Skipper’s first opened, striking a new note on the coastal strip’s neon-lit nightclub scene with its yacht-inspired décor, its jazz and rock tunes, and its instantly loyal fans. Casual and unpretentious, Skipper’s initially attracted the yacht crowd, but soon became the kind of place where you go on a first date, hang out with friends while planning your summer holidays or have a chilled-out drink on a Friday after work. •

G R E E C E IS

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The long seaside stroll

Tel. 210.988.02.82

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pretty little things A L L T H E S T U FF Y O U C A N ’ T R E S I S T A N D M AY N E V E R N E E D

Anamesa

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A visit here is like a mini-style session. Mix together indie-pop music, sweet interiors, a coffee corner with ginger lemonade and homemade cakes, and you get the ideal shopping experience – there’s even a drawing table for kids. Their collection is made up of small Greek and European brands focused on urban pieces with a twist, and the staff will most definitely give you tips on how to mix and match.

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24 Nikis, Syntagma • Tel. 210.325.4930 www.anamesaspot.gr

i-D Concept Stores This three-floor store set in the heart of the upscale Kolonaki neighborhood encourages the kind of slow-shopping where you can get a good idea of modern Greek fashion by checking out clothing and jewelry from both local and international up-and-coming and established designers. You can also find gadgets and

souvenirs. If you’re in the market for artworks, half the top floor is an exhibition space devoted to Greek artists. 12 Kanari • Tel. 210.322.1801 • www.idconceptstores.com •

eleni marneri gallery This beautiful, colorful space near the Acropolis not only hosts art exhibitions but also boasts an excellent collection of Greek jewelry, both fine and costume, as well as cool Greek accessory brands like

SPLASH OUT

Would you visit London without stopping by Harrods? Paris without dropping by Galleries Lafayette? The Athenian equivalent of these shopping institutions is attica Department Stores (9 Panepistimiou), with 850 fashion

and beauty brands and more than 350 shops in a shop, all in a listed 1940s building that covers an entire city block and also features the City Link arcade, with cafés, restaurants and bars for your shopping break. Just around the corner lies Voukourestiou, the most upscale shopping street in Athens. Through years of crisis it has survived, an unblemished paradise for mood-boosting browsing where you can find the country’s best jewelers, along with international designers like Dior and Prada, displaying their goods in gleaming windows. Its lower half is pedestrianized and ideal for a stroll. Cartier (7 Voukourestiou),

Salty Bag, which makes totes and purses from decommissioned sails. Roman ruins are visible through glass floors. 5-7 Lebessi & 16 Porinou, Makriyanni • Tel. 210.861.9488 • www.elenimarneri.com

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small workshops around the world make for perfect gifts. From vintage shaving kits to tote bags featuring symbols of the city, there’s plenty to explore. • •

Melissinos Sandals

15 I. Paparrigopoulou • Tel. 213.034.3663 www.paraphernalia.gr

The Melissinos family has been making sandals since 1920, but it was Stavros Melissinos, the poet-cum-sandal-maker that really made the shop a tourist attraction. Many designs are named after celebrities such as Jackie O, John Lennon and Sophia Loren, who purchased them.

Rock and Roll Circus

7 Normanou, Monastiraki • Tel. 210-3311925, www.melissinos-sandals.gr

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Paraphernalia Rare decorative and design items from

Over 20,000 vinyl records are for sale in this charming shop where music is always playing. You’ll find lots of soul and jazz, box sets and rare editions. You can also sit by the wooden staircase, put on headphones and listen before purchasing. 21 Sina • Tel. 210.362.0144

SOUVENIRs reinvented Skip the cheesy souvenirs and bring home something that you’ll really love.

Chopard (2 Stadiou & Voukourestiou), Kassis (18 Voukourestiou), Kessaris (7 Panepistimiou & Voukourestiou), Ora Kessaris (8A Voukourestiou), Lalaounis (6 Panepistimiou & Voukourestiou), Louis Vuitton (19 Voukourestiou), Zolotas (10 Panepistimiou) Panaidis Eyewear Boutique (11 Voukourestiou), Vildiridis (11 Voukourestiou) are only some of the

luxury boutiques and jewelry stores you’ll find along the way, each filled with enough temptations to max out your credit card.

Forget me NΩΤ features fabulous memorabilia that marries wonderful design with function – household objects, jewellery, t-shirts, funky sandals, and other Greek-inspired accessories (100 Adrianou,

www.forgetmenotathens.gr). Flaneur is

another cool shop where you’ll find smart

gadgets for travelers and other objects, including diaries, tote bags and jewelry. (1 Flessa, Tel. 210.322.6900) G R E E C E IS

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EXPERIENCES

AT THE SOURCE © PERIKLES MERAKOS

T HE NE W WAV E OF GREEK GROCERY S TORES

ERGON

KOSTARELOS

Brimming with delicacies from every corner of Greece, this deli is the perfect place to find rare meze – like saltcured tuna from Alonnisos and pies from Kozani. It’s ideal for both lunch and dinner; your meal will be made with ingredients straight off the shelves around you.

At this mecca of Greek cheese, you’ll find incredible products to take home and enjoy as well as plenty to eat right on the spot. Kostarelos, which is family-run, produces a variety of cheeses but it’s perhaps most noted for its feta, both soft and hard, which is exceptional – try some tucked into a sourdough sandwich. The anthotyro with dill pesto on a crusty baguette is also amazing.

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26 Mitropoleos, Syntagma Tel. 210.331.5547

30-32 Patriarchou Ioakeim, Kolonaki • Tel. 210.725.9000 •

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KARAMANLIDIKA TOU FANI Situated near the central market, this spot is great for Greek meze, including cured meats from Drama, handmade sausages and dolmades (stuffed vine leaves), as well as for wine or ouzo. Filled with hanging hams and cheeses, the interior gets delightfully noisy. If it’s all too much, ask for a table in the little courtyard outside. • •

1 Sokratous & Evripidou, Psyrri Tel. 210.325.4184

YOLENI’S This is a Greek food institution with local and regional products for both purchase and in-store consumption; it also has a restaurant, a café, a Gaea Olive Oil Bar and food seminar spaces. Have a breakfast of wild greens and cheese pie on the ground floor, made to order in a wood-fired oven. On the first floor is Farma Bralou, a butcher’s counter and steakhouse. • •

9 Solonos, Kolonaki Tel. 212.222.3622

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27 Apostolou Pavlou St., Thiseio/Athens Î¤el. (+30) 210.346.9077 E-mail: info@chocolatroyal.gr, www.chocolatroyal.gr

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NO FRILLS T H E S E E AT E R I E S A R E P R E F E R E D B Y L O C A L S A N D F O R G O O D R E A S O N

AMA LACHEI

DIPORTO

A truly Athenian experience, Ama Lachei is set in a neoclassical building that was formerly a school and offers straightforward, tasty food with a friendly service. Try the couscous with chicken and follow it with an exceptional dessert. Grab a spot under the grape trellis in the garden. • 69 Kallidromiou, Exarchia

Perhaps the oldest taverna in Athens, this basement restaurant has barely changed since it opened; it’s a place for romantics and history buffs. It smells of smoke from the grill and of wine, too, poured straight from the large barrels. The menu is always the same – chickpea soup, boiled greens, and small fish. The atmosphere is unbeatable. Open 7:00 to 18:00

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Tel. 210.384.5978

DEXAMENI A quiet little sidewalk spot on both sides of an inclined pedestrian walkway that seems miles from bustling Kolonaki, this is where locals hang out for coffee and beer. Ideal for a visit before or after a movie at the nearby outdoor cinema.

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2 Plateia Theatrou, Psyrri Tel. 210.321.6629

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5 Eptachalkou, Thiseio Tel. 210.345.8052

9 Sokratous and Theatrou, Omonia • Tel. 210.321.1463

SEYCHELLES

Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki • Tel. 210.722.4609

KLIMATARIA One of the oldest tavernas in Athens, Klimataria is listed in most tourist guides, and for good reason. With a small courtyard and old wine barrels for decoration, it’s an ideal place to enjoy classic Greek cuisine and even learn w w w.gREECE-is.com

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in Athens in this cool and quiet garden restaurant, from where you can hear the metro trains pass nearby. On Sundays it’s a popular spot for families and big groups, who come for grilled meats, especially the lamb ribs.

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more about it in dedicated cooking lessons (in English, on request). Try the moussaka, soutzoukakia (spicy meatballs in tomato sauce), stuffed vegetables, pies and grilled meats.

This is a reason in itself to visit Kerameikos neighborhood. You’ll find traditional and rustic Greek dishes cooked with ingredients from small producers. Try the liver, pappardelle and beef tongue and be sure to order a plate of cheese. Don’t expect to walk away feeling light. • •

49 Kerameikou, Kerameikos Tel. 211.183.4789

TRIANTAFYLLO TIS NOSTIMIAS This wonderfully simple eatery has just a handful of tables in an arcade full of old goldsmith workshops. You’ll find the ideal companions for ouzo – small grilled fish, sardines stuffed with herbs, fava with onion and saganaki fried cheese. 22 Lekka, Syntagma Tel. 210.322.7298 • Kitchen open: Sat, Sun, Mon 12:0018:30; Tue-Fri 12:00-21:00

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STEKI TOU ILIA You’ll feel like you’re not

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THE INSIDE SCOOP

If you find yourself screaming for ice cream near Syntagma, head to Cremino; what it lacks in variety, it makes up in quality and taste (50A Nikis). Another great option is Le Greche , an authentic Italian gelateria with over 25 flavors and handmade cones (16 Mitropoleos). Karaköy Güllüoglu is the best spot for traditional Turkish desserts, including what is probably the best kaymak ice cream you’ll ever taste (10 Nikis). For an old-fashioned delight, you can’t go wrong with a Chicago sundae at Zonar’s: chocolate ice cream, whipped cream, langues des chat and chocolate syrup, all served in a tall glass and best enjoyed out on the terrace (9 Voukourestiou).

making a meal of it ever y one ’ s up f or brunch these day s

its croque monsieurs and madames which eventually give way to late-night cocktails (88 Falirou, Koukaki, Tel. 213.032.6450). At Citrus Aroma Mnimis, you’ll enjoy a breakfast

that is both low-cost (€7 PP) and of exceptional quality, with fruits and other products brought in from the island of Chios with its famous citrus groves (62 Konstantinoupoleos, Gazi, Tel. 210.339.0790). Drupes & Drips offers a large selection of cheeses and cured meats from Greece and Italy as well as a meze menu that changes daily (20 Zitrou, Acropolis). Before coming here, you can stop by Taki’s Bakery (14 Misaraliotou) for excellent bread, rusks, and other baked goods. In the residential-cum-trendy area of Pangrati, OhH Boy is a small, whitewashed restaurant that serves vegetable tarts, sandwiches, a great carrot cake and a coconut milk and rice pudding (32 Archelaou, Tel. 211.183.8340). Last but not least, Philos is a charming concept store in a charmless part of the city. Modern and elegant, it serves brunch until 18:00 and the menu is based on seasonal ingredients. Be sure to try the watermelon and feta salad. (32 Solonos, Tel. 210.361.9163) 102

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A CLASS OF ITS OWN

Located just a stone’s throw from the Parthenon, the Acropolis Museum Café serves traditional Greek dishes that vary according to the availability of fresh ingredients including fish, cheeses and cold meats. An authentic Greek breakfast is served until 12 noon. •

15 Dionysiou Areopagitou • Τel. 210.900.0915

Bel Ray, a car-wash converted to an all-day café/bar, attracts the hipster crowd with

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WINE CULTURE B A R S T H At make sommeliers out o f their patrons Warehouse CO2 (1 Ypereidou, Tel. 210.324.7048) specializes in all things bubbly, serving sparkling wine, champagne and dessert sparkling wine, as well as premium soft drinks and beer. At Heteroclito (30 Petraki, Tel. 210.323.9406), which resembles a Parisian bistro, all the flavors are Greek, from the wine to the cheese and cold meats platters. Their list is focused on native grapes and includes some rare gems. At Oinoscent (44 Voulis, Tel.

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210.322.9374) you can either buy a bottle of wine from

their 700-strong cellar to enjoy on the spot with a €8 corkage fee, or choose one of the 50 selections offered by the glass. Small and quiet, Materia Prima (68 Falirou, Koukaki, Τel. 210.924.5935) is not right in the city center, but it’s popular among wine aficionados who know a good vintage. You’ll find native varieties from small-scale producers and examples of special vinification styles.

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ATHENS OPHTHALMIC CENTER 30 YEARS OF OPER ATION Situated in the center of the city, the ATHENS OPHTHALMIC CENTER is a modern facility offering complete medical care to patients with vision problems.

The Athens Ophthalmic Center, in operation since 1986, is the Greek capital’s first private facility of its kind, providing modern medical services for the prevention, diagnosis and treatment of eye conditions. The impeccably trained specialist doctors and staff, together with the state-of-the-art medical equipment available at the center, combine to deliver services of the highest quality. At the Athens Ophthalmic Center, specialized teams are in place to deal with: • Cataract and glaucoma • Refractive surgery and excimer laser • Retinal and macular diseases • Child ophthalmology and strabismus • Oculoplastic surgery • Corrective glasses and contact lenses • Ophthalmic check-up Last year, the Athens Ophthalmic Center expanded its operations with Day Clinics, setting up an ophthalmic surgical unit notable for its progressive infrastructure, innovative technology and high standard of care. Experienced surgeons provide specialized and customized medical treatment to ensure both high-quality treatment and ideal post-surgical results. At the Athens Ophthalmic Day Clinic, excimer laser treatments to correct refractive errors of the eye, including myopia, hyperopia

and astigmatism, take place every day. Operations for cataracts, glaucoma, macular and retinal diseases, as well as for conditions of the vitreous and the eyelid, are also performed daily. The patients that choose to undergo surgery at the Athens Ophthalmic Day Clinic enjoy the unique personal care we provide in a comfortable and friendly environment. Their smiles and their sincere testimonies regarding the experiences they have had and the treatment we have offered them validates our constant endeavors to provide the best service possible. Throughout these past 30 years, the Athens Ophthalmic Center has been operating responsibly and professionally. Our aspiration has always been the complete satisfaction of our patients. Our continuous success in achieving this objective demonstrates that all of us, doctors and staff, are committed to offering innovative and high-quality services in the area of ophthalmology.

ATHENS OPHTHALMIC CENTER www.eyecenter.gr

64 Vas. Sofias Tel.(+30) 210 72 47 103

EXPERIENCES

COFFEE RITUALS T H I R D W A V E , F A I R T R ade , C O L D - B R E W E D O R plain old chillaxed

This is a city that runs on caffeine. Underdog (8 Irakleidon, Thiseio), a “third-wave” award-winning coffee shop, makes a mean cold brew. Some of the best Greek coffee from Mokka (44 Athinas) is still brewed on hot sand. You can pick up a value-for-money double-shot espresso to go at Kaya (7 Voulis, Bolani Arcade), but you can’t sit down here. There is, however, a counter you can stand at. Dyo boukies, dyo goulies, literally two bites, two sips (8 Dragatsaniou) is a well-kept secret, where smoking, vaping and even hand-wipes are forbidden because they interfere with the aromas of coffee. Tania is a freak for the stuff and makes possibly the best espresso in Greece, while her Cretan husband, Nikos is an expert on sandwiches and other snacks. For just hanging out, head to Aghias Irinis Square, which began as a coffee mecca five years ago and is now one of Athens’s trendiest spots, with plenty of cafés and bars, such as Tailor Made (2 Aghias Irinis Square). Weekends can get a bit crazy, so a weekday may be better.

HONEY-SOAKED DELIGHT

The loukouma dough fritter, drenched in honey and sprinkled with cinnamon and sometimes sesame, is a classic Greek indulgence and in past years was even the occasion for a Sunday family outing. Ktistakis – although located in a neighborhood that can get a bit dodgy come nightfall – makes its loukoumades small and succulent, as though pumped full of honey (42 Socratous); at Krinos (87 Aiolou) they look more like classic donuts.

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ON THE GO STREET FOOD YOU WON’T REGRET - OR FORGET - TRYING

GUARANTEE

ARISTON BAKERY

KOULOURI OF PSYRRI

Since 1988, Giannis and his wife Xaroula have been feeding patient customers who line up for their delicious sandwiches. They have a variety of vegetarian options, but for those who eat meat, try their beef sandie with homemade béarnaise sauce.

This bakery has been operating for 111 years and produces 25 different types of pies, but is most famous for its kourou cheese pie which is buttery, flaky and addictive. The pies are made in the basement, so they’re always piping hot.

You can find koulouria, bread rings covered in sesame seeds, all over Athens. It’s a snack that hails from Byzantine times and one that many people eat after a late night out or for breakfast. If you want to get yours at the source, come to this bakery. The first trays come out of the oven a little after midnight.

41 Veikou • Tel. 210.922.6924

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10 Voulis • Tel. 210.322.7626

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23 Karaiskaiki • Tel. 210.321.5962

KOSTAS SOUVLAKI

FEYROUZ

FALAFELLAS

If you’re looking for the best souvlaki in Athens, this is the real deal. Open from morning until a little after 15:30, it serves the most delicious and simple souvlaki you can find – meat, parsley, onion, tomato, and nothing else.

For a taste of the East, this place, which is run by a family from Lebanon, is where to go. Be sure to try laxmatzoun, a flat bread topped with meat and/or vegetables. Also worth trying is the peinirli with smoked eggplant and pork.

This hole in the wall put falafels on the Athens street food map. There’s always a long line, but service is fast. Enjoy your falafel on the bench just outside where there’s almost always someone playing traditional Greek music.

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Pentelis, Syntagma • Tel. 210.322.8502

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23 Karori, Monastiraki • Tel. 213.031.8060

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51 Aiolou, Monastiraki • Tel. 210.323.9809

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Grecian Chic for Beginners It’s been a 2,500-year journey through time and style: from the ancient peplos and chiton to traditional embroidered sigouni jackets and today’s goddess dresses, Greece has provided boundless fashion inspiration. BY Elis Kiss

reek style has been a recurring story on the global fashion scene. In Paris alone, legendary couturier Madeleine Vionnet’s fluid drapes were inspired by ancient Greek sculptures and were followed by the delicate, yet precise pleats of Madame Grès. JeanPaul Gaultier reworked the fustanella kilt for his 2006 haute couture collection and, just recently, Karl Lagerfeld turned to ancient Greece for his Chanel Resort 2018 collection, which saw parts of the Parthenon and the Temple of Poseidon in Sounion being reproduced at the Grand Palais in Paris. Greek chic also earned its very own show at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art back in 2003, where “Goddess: The Classical Mode” traced fashion history from ancient Greece and Rome to the 21st century. When it comes to Greek designers, the fashion heritage tends to be innate, expressed in both obvious and more subtle ways. Internationally acclaimed designers such as London-based Sophia Kokosalaki and Mary Katrantzou, for

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instance, have drawn from their Greek background. While the former has highlighted her roots through elaborate draping techniques (leading to a stint at Vionnet, when the house was relaunched in 2006), the latter has often used Greek themes (including now-defunct drachma notes and Minoan symbols) for her signature digital prints. Years earlier, Yannis Tseklenis’ spirited printed fabrics, which often included motifs from the homeland, pushed the country’s heritage into the global limelight in the 1960s and 1970s. While the fashion industry continues its perpetual search for the next big thing, an increasing number of local designers and brands are incorporating a series of neo-Greek chic elements into their creative identities. They are also adding a “Made in Greece” dimension, a sign of pride and persistence during tough times. The brands featured here are fashion case studies, whose refreshing outlook is helping re-energize the local industry.

Zeus+Δione hydrea summer 2017

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A LABOR of love Zeus+Δione, a lifestyle brand founded in 2012, takes its inspired name from the parents of the Greek goddess of love. Built on a strong DNA of minimalist silhouettes with a sense of geometry and featuring Doric elements, Zeus+Δione garments are subsequently embellished with intricate details. “We came up with the idea of creating a 100-percent Greek brand because the biggest advantage that we Greeks have is our heritage. No matter what changes in the economy, you can’t change history,” say founders Mareva Grabowski and Dimitra Kolotoura. The brand’s silk fabrics are made in the silk-producing town of Soufli in northeastern Greece, silk shirts are embroidered in Argos and Metsovo (in the Peloponnese and Epirus respectively), while dresses and skirts are knitted by women in Attica and on various Cycladic islands. Selected patterns are handwoven in Crete. “We believe in the craftsmanship and specialized skills of Greek people. Generations after generations have held on to plenty of traditional aspects and we want to use them and make them come alive again,” says the duo, who scouted Greece to locate craftsmen to work with. The Zeus+Δione Hydrea Summer 2017 collection features handmade embroidery inspired by Greek folk garment traditions. This is where natural fibers, including silk and cotton, mix with metallic textures, while the collection’s color palette includes burnt orange and marigold. Those who stock Zeus+Δione include the Grande Bretagne Hotel in Athens, Bergdorf Goodman in New York, Le Bon Marché in Paris and Drawing Numbers in Tokyo, while its online presence extends to net-a-porter.com and matchesfashion.com. www.zeusndione.com 112

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This summer, the Zeus+Δione Hydrea Collection features handmade embroidery inspired by Greek folk garment traditions.

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Austere fluidity

Kourbela’s body-embracing silhouettes capture the energy of movement while her Greek heritage makes its mark through a kind of pleated fluidity.

The relationship between fashion and the wearer is central to the work of Ioanna Kourbela, a designer whose philosophy is based on the notion that a “garment is the body’s home.” This would explain why Kourbela, who comes from a knitwear-producing family, invariably “test-drives” her own design ideas before transferring them onto paper. Her body-embracing silhouettes capture the energy of movement while her Greek heritage makes its mark through a kind of pleated fluidity running constantly through her pieces. At the brand’s flagship store in the Plaka district in Athens, you’ll find clothes made of cotton, linen, silk and wool – all produced in Greece. One of the brand’s signature pieces, the versatile pleat-inspired 2250 wrap car-

digan is billed as a polymorphic piece of clothing which can be worn in more than 20 different ways. Meanwhile, the designer’s Anavasis (“Ascent”) Summer 2017 Collection mixes couture details with a sense of futurism, while its four-color combination juxtaposes “warm” and “cool” shades. “The collection is defined by its austere, strict and linear aspects, while its name reflects a motif which is reproduced in garments and jewelry, but also serves as an allegory, highlighting a tendency toward continuous improvement,” notes the designer. Ioanna Kourbela’s collections for men and women are currently stocked in over 22 countries across the globe, including outlets in Europe, the US, the Middle East and Asia. www.ioannakourbela.com G R E E C E IS

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Precise abstraction Reinterpreting old ideas in abstract ways through prints and cuts is the focal point of The Artians by Konstantina, a family business founded only two years ago. “We draw our inspiration from world art and, very often, from Greek art, both ancient and contemporary. However, ours is a fresh, global, minimalist take, free of folklore,” says interior architect and designer Konstantina Kampisopoulou, the brand’s founder. “We were born and raised here and the images we use are engraved in our minds. Even when we designed a jewelry collection inspired by the Chinese Ming dynasty, we kept it minimal and symmetric, which are both Greek elements.” The company produces its own prints which are subsequently matched with the patterns. The Sayades Summer 2017 Col-

lection is billed as a game of colors between the country’s sea and sunlight and includes shirts and shirt-dresses. “Our main goal is extroversion; we wish for the collection to travel abroad, both in terms of imagery and as a product.” The Sayades range was inspired by Greek traditional costume from around 1900, especially the Karagouna garment which originated in Thessaly. “We were moved by the fact that each piece symbolizes women’s status and their situation at that particular time. We are drawn to periods where women played an important role in society,” adds the designer. A network of 20 outlets situated in Athens and on several Greek islands currently provide a retail platform for the brand, which is also hoping to attract interest with its e-commerce activity. www.theartians.com

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Eight Golden Hours Plenty of surprises and special gastronomic treats await you at Golden Hall, the city’s ultimate shopping destination. Make it a date! 12:00 A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE The day starts with the delicious aroma of strong coffee from Starbucks, Coffeeway, Carpo, Flocafe, Danesi Coffee House, Il Barretto, Terkenlis or Ben & Jerry’s. Are you ready? A fascinating journey through 41,000 square meters starts. More than 133 stores of domestic and international brands in the worlds of fashion, beauty, decoration, art and technology await you! 14:00 TIME TO EXPLORE Discover the latest trends in fashion by browsing the new collections of houses and brands such as Canali, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ermenegildo Zegna, Brooks Brothers, Boggi, Tommy Hilfiger, La Martina, Tru Trussardi, Victoria Secret, Massimo Dutti, Zara, Nike, Adidas, GAP and many more! You’ll also find Moncler, Zadig & Voltaire, Burberry, Kenzo, Herve Leger at Attica Department Store, Dsquared2 and Balmain at Eponymo, and BCBGMAXAZRIA at Vardas. 37A Kifissias Avenue, 151 23 Maroussi – Athens, www.goldenhall.gr

16:00 LET’S PLAY With many options for the whole family, Golden Hall promises a carefree shopping and dining experience for all, offering exciting kids’ activities such as an outdoor kids’ playground, an indoor playroom, PlayStation area, theatrical plays and workshops, LEGO® PLAY area, a board games area, illustration workshops, air hockey, table soccer and more. 18:00 SOPHISTICATED SERVICES The No1 European shopping center makes your day with high quality services such as free Wi-Fi, a cloakroom, baby care, gift cards, mani-pedi, hair salon, taxi service and an advanced car cleaning unit. 20:00 FINE DINING Call it a day at Golden Hall, by choosing among the most delicious dining options: La Pasteria, Pastis, Prytaneion Gold and Wagamama await you on the second floor, offering a relaxed setting and kids’ area/facilities. Tomorrow, another bright day will dawn at Golden Hall. Enjoy!

Meta-folklore In the northern Greek town of Kozani, weaver Aikaterini Papadopoulou, a graduate of the town’s weaving school, spent more than 110 hours on the loom to produce the one-of-a-kind handwoven Rena Jacket for Tria etc, a company founded in 2016 to showcase traditional and innovative Greek artisanship. “It’s a question of style. I love to play with things like a pair of ripped jeans and a hand-embroidered jacket from Metsovo. I like the juxtaposition,” says Tatiana Blatnik, wife of Prince Nikolaos of Greece, who co-founded the brand with her Greek partners, Christina Filiagouridou and Elina Sbokou. “The idea itself was born out of a shared love for Greece. On a personal level, I had been traveling around the country with my husband. During my travels, I saw inspiring, rare talent and a lot of skill, so I teamed up with my two partners and we came up with the

idea of collaborating with creative thinkers, merging tradition with innovation,” notes Blatnik. The company’s production is limited, with some one-off pieces, although orders can be placed. Items are also sold at exclusive stores in Greece and abroad. The brand’s leisurewear this summer includes the Ellie tunic, made with Soufli silk and designed exclusively for Tria etc by Ellie Kousouli. “We don’t have our own production house or in-house designer,” says Blatnik. “We’re not a fashion brand. We are more about timeless pieces that tell a story about the people, the places and the cultural traditions. I strongly believe that fashion will continue to go this way. We are becoming simpler; nobody wants to look the same. I find that we are looking for products with meaning, and this comes out in these Greek pieces.” www.triaetc.com

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EXPERIENCE THE HERITAGE OF ATHENS Named after Athena Pallas, the mythical protectress of Athens, Palladian Home offers a unique hospitality experience in the heart of Plaka, the most beautiful and historic area of the Greek capital. Conveniently located within walking distance of all the city’s major archaeological sites, as well as the shopping and entertainment hotspots of Syntagma, Monastiraki and Kolonaki, Palladian Home is housed in a neoclassical building dating from 1830 that has been painstakingly restored to timeless perfection. Classical decor elements have been combined with modern amenities of the highest standard in all of the hotel’s 13 sun-drenched rooms (1 quadruple, 9 doubles, 1 single and 2 suites) with mesmerizing views of the Acropolis and the surrounding area. An ideal accommodation option for both leisure and business travelers, Palladian Home takes pride in its gracious hospitality and in the personalized service provided by its friendly staff.

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Farmaki & Kidathineon • Tel. (+30) 210.300.8044 • www.palladianhome.com

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Limitless Inspiration f o r t h at s p e c i a l g r e e k s t y l e , c h e c k o u t t h e s e d e s i g n e r s , t o o .

Ancient Kallos Billed as the first Greek brand to focus solely on resort wear, Ancient Kallos is the creative child of twin sisters Labrini and Stella Stavrou. The Thessaloniki-based company, founded in 2014, draws inspiration from timeless Greek beauty – “kallos,” after all, has been a local word for “beauty” since antiquity. Natural fibers, including cotton, lace and silk, are used in shirt and beach dresses as well as in kaftans, the detailing of wihich includes cotton embroideries and handmade tassels. Produced in Greece, Ancient Kallos is available at selected stores locally and abroad, including vacation spots in France and Italy. www.ancientkallos.com

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Angelos Bratis Angelos Bratis has a gift for making an exceptionally constructed dress look like something he just whipped up. The Athens-born designer, who spent years working in Milan and is now based in the UK, employs an elaborate, hands-on draping technique, while his pleats, folds and bias-cutting lead to linear, symmetrical silhouettes with a heavy Doric touch. His elegant garments are on sale at several boutiques across Greece, such as i-D Concept Stores in Kolonaki, Athens. Pieces by the designer are also sold at Bel Boutique in Milan. www.angelosbratis.it

Daphne Valente An element of sensual mobility characterizes the world of Daphne Valente, a quiet fashion rebel, whose signature pleated garments recall the masterpieces of the early 20th century visionary Mariano Fortuny. The designer takes a sculptural approach in her work, pleating her fabrics before turning them into garments. Balancing between the artistic and the commercial, her pieces are available at selected outlets in Greece, Cyprus and Lebanon, as well as at the Benaki Museum and Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum shops in Athens. www.daphne-valente.com

Parthenis At the house of Parthenis, Orsalia Parthenis carries on the family tradition of comfortable sophistication based on a minimalist aesthetic. The brand is known for reworking classic basics through body-friendly fabrics such as cotton, jersey, wool, and the new age fabric Tencel, often leading to monochrome (without, however excluding some color combos) pieces with a very long fashion expiry date. Her work can be found at flagship stores in Athens and Mykonos, and on sale in Lebanon, Kuwait, the US, the UK and other countries, as well as through her e-shop. www.orsalia-parthenis.gr

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gastronomy

LOOK WHO’S COOKING Ten chefs who helped put Athens on the global food map. BY neNA DIMITRIOU

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Lefteris Lazarou Varoulko Seaside | 52 Akti Koumoundourou | Tel (+30) 210.522.8400

“My memories and my thoughts on the evolution of gastronomy all trace back to the bounty of the sea.” Who he is: Lazarou has been

building a reputation as a master of seafood since 1986, when he opened the first Varoulko restaurant, soaring above his humble beginnings as a galley cook on ships. He has supervised the menus at dozens of restaurants and is now anchored at the Mikrolimano Harbor in Piraeus, running Varoulko Seaside, a temple of creative seafood. Contribution: He is a true master of fish, preparing it skillfully whether it is roasted, grilled, boiled or fried, and flavoring it simply with tomato, wine, garlic, parsley or basil. His dishes don’t contain any frills, unless it’s a perfect sauce, at which he is also a deft hand. Who could have thought that the innards of red mullet could contain such flavor? His spaghetti with grouper, his fish pie, and his calamari with pesto are signature dishes that have helped transform contemporary Greek seafood. Favorite ingredient: He likes experimenting with fish innards; he’s especially fond of liver, which has an intensely compact flavor. Must try: Grilled calamari, fished in

Greek seas, with a cream of fish roe and grilled lettuce.

Christoforos Peskias Balthazar | 27 Tsocha, Ambelokipi | Tel (+30) 210.644.1215

“first Nature and then tradition show us the way in the kitchen.” Who he is: Peskias was born and grew

up in Cyprus, studied business management at Boston University in the US and moved to Greece in 1991. He was trained by Ferran Adrià and Mark Menaux, among others, and became one of the youngest celebrity chefs in Greece and, in turn, an excellent teacher to many younger and now-acclaimed chefs. When he ran the kitchen at Restaurant 48, it made it into the list of the world’s Top 100 for two consecutive years. Now he is at Balthazar, a modern multi-ethnic restaurant. Contribution: He has been cooking for 25 years, somewhat eccentrically but definitely deliciously. He considers humble ingredients such as yoghurt, cheese, sardines, anchovies, figs, grapes and olives as treasures with which the right chef can work magic. Favorite ingredients: He loves cooking with tomatoes, filleting them, making sauces and using all the juices, reveling in their sweetness and acidity. Must try: Greek sea bass sashimi with

bottarga, tomato water, tomato heart, olive oil and toasted bread.

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GASTRONOMY

Spyros Pavlidis Cookooovaya | 2 Hadziyianni Mexi, Ilissia | Tel (+30) 210.723.5005

“A cook must have patience, modesty and humility.” Who he is: The chef de cuisine at Cookooovaya, Pavlidis manages a team of five chefs. He has held

leadership roles in many famous Athenian kitchens, but the most important chapter that launched his career was training beside Evi Voutsina, a sage of Greek gastronomy, a prolific cookbook author who created a unique record of the country’s cuisine by traveling, tasting and discovering. Later a close friend, Evi was the one who taught him all about the hard-to-find ingredients and long-lost recipes that later shaped his signature style. Contribution: Very much a father-figure in the kitchen, he has guided the team into redefining the philosophy of traditional Greek cuisine, showcasing the qualities of olive oil, cheeses from cottage farmers, pies baked in a wood oven and classics in their most pristine version. From pulses, wild legumes and his forte, game, his food is voluptuous, succulent and fresh, with no ingredient left out of the limelight. Favorite ingredients: “Mushrooms from Epirus and the wild legumes of the Greek countryside

are pure gold.” Must try: Salad with fresh, grilled Greek chanterelle mushrooms, asparagus and smoked cheese. G R E E C E IS

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Fabrizio Bugliani Mama Fuga | 1 Petrou Kokkali, Mavili Square | Tel (+30) 210.724.2979

“Instinct and experience are my guides in the kitchen.” Who he is: He grew up in a village in the Alps, studied as a chef, traveled a lot and worked beside a few very important chefs, including Roger Vergé in Lyons, and at Landhaus Scherrer in Germany as well as at luxury hotels in Venice, Milan, Tokyo, Moscow, Mumbai and Miami. He came to Greece in 1990 to work at Boschetto, an amazing Italian restaurant that soon became a hit with the country’s elite. Having passed through many kitchens, he is now at the restaurant in the garden of the Athens Concert Hall, Mama Fuga. Contribution: His food is always heartfelt, a condensed hit of the flavors that define the Mediterranean. He believes – and proves – that the fish of this sea have significant advantages over their ocean cousins, as do the region’s truffles and alpine mushrooms. As a person he is extremely affable, yet his cooking is bold and full of character, so that even the simplest-sounding dishes are packed with flavor. Favorite ingredients: He loves cooking with mushrooms and trying different cheeses. Must try: L’insalata greca di Damiano with melon, watermelon, cucumber, arugula, shrimp

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Aleria | 57 Megalou Alexandrou, Metaxourgio | Tel (+30) 210.522.2633

“Passion leads to cooking” Who he is: He grew up in the town of Thi-

va (Thebes) in Viotia, studied as a chef at a private college in Athens and continues to educate himself with stints at Michelin-starred kitchens abroad. He is inspired by Arnaud Bignon, Thomas Keller, Brett Graham from The Ledbury and Heston Blumenthal, and has been the chef for the past five years at Aleria. Contribution: He showcases his ingredients in skillful combinations to present dishes of contemporary creative cuisine, which he has been faithfully representing for the past decade. Many of his dishes star the Mediterranean staples of tomato, basil and olive oil. Favorite ingredients: “Smoked eel from Geitonas Eeels in Arta, Golden Black Mazos currants, Chios mastic and Cycladic cheeses.” Must try: The crème brûlée made with

feta cheese, marinated lime and fennel, and the watermelon squash with wasabi and pickled watermelon rind.

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Asterios Koustoudis HOTEL Grande Bretagne | 1 Vasileos Georgiou A, Syntagma | Tel (+30) 210.333.0000 “Food needs to be simple, but not simplistic.” Who he is: He was born in

Thessaloniki, where he also studied to become a cook. He spent three years as chef de cuisine at Vardis (from 2009 to 2011), where his food was awarded a Michelin star, and has now been appointed executive chef of the Hotel Grande Bretagne, on Athens’ Syntagma Square. Contribution: Moderate and sincere, he is dedicated to products with a Mediterranean heritage and knows how to make them shine. His food is simple, with a lot of seasonal vegetables and fish, prepared with solid technical skill. He is particularly proud of his use of Greek herbs, which he says help balance his dishes and allow the other ingredients to show off their best attributes. “Oregano and lemon is a typical example of a flavor combination that stays with foreign visitors to this country,” he says. Favorite ingredients: He loves all citrus fruits for their rich aromas, their bitter, sweet and acidic flavors, and uses them in soups, ice creams, sorbets, sweets and, mostly, seafood dishes. Must try: Grilled scallops with

a puree of cauliflower, raisins, almonds and curry.

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Sotiris Kontizas

Nolan | 31-33 Voulis and Apollonos, Syntagma | Tel (+30) 210.324.3545

“If we chose the harder path when facing all of our dilemmas, the world would be a better place.” Who he is: A Greek-Japanese economist, he gave up a career in banking to pursue his passion for cook-

ing. He studied alongside pioneering Greek chef Christoforos Peskias and worked at, among other places, Geranium in Copenhagen, The Ledbury in London and Nobu Matsuhisa. This year he is also a panelist on the hit TV show MasterChef Greece. Contribution: He serves a fascinating and fresh version of Greek-Japanese cuisine at Nolan, a unique Athens restaurant. In his dishes, you’ll find fresh Greek fish, lemon, cilantro, a lot of acid tones and olive oil. He considers trachanas (a grain-and-milk-based dish) an excellent and complete meal. Favorite products: “Chios mastic, wild spiny chicory, bottarga from Messolongi and Kozani saffron are

just some of the local products that stand out thanks to their provenance.” Must try: Fricassée of bogue or greater amberjack ceviche, cured in the juice of citrus fruits and chili, and

served with a thick white sauce. G R E E C E IS

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Aris Vezenes VEZENE | 11 Vrasida, Ilissia | Tel. (+30) 210.723.2002

“A guest’s first encounter with a dish should answer one simple question: ‘Would I eat it again?’” Who he is: He was born and raised in New York to emigrant Greek parents. He’s self-taught and defines

himself as a chef/butcher. He’s also the owner of the Greek bar-bistro Vezene in Athens. Contribution: He was among the first to acquaint Athenians, many years ago, with global trends

in aged meats and out-of-the-ordinary cuts and breeds. A Vezene meal is an experience; nonetheless, he claims to cook just as he would for his family. A fan of contrasts, he does a lot of surf-and-turf and cold-hot combinations. Favorite ingredient: “Greek bottarga, which is by far better than others. The kind from Lefkada

is at the top of its league.” Must try: Pasticcio with beef tartare, a powerful dish that stands out for its masterful combination

of raw and cooked ingredients.

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Antonis Drakoularakos Sushimou | 6 Skoufou, Syntagma | Tel (+30) 211.407.8457

“The constant exploration of ingredients makes you more creative.” Who he is: He grew up in Athens

and studied physics before donning his chef’s apron and visiting Japan from July to September 2014 to learn the secrets of sushi. Those three months were enough for him to return and open an excellent sushi bar in Athens called Sushimou. Contribution: He uses Greek fish that are largely overlooked and does not settle for the same basic ingredient; instead, he fillets whatever he finds at the market that looks appealing, which is why the menu changes every day. You’ll be pressed to find such a variety of fish in sashimi and at such affordable prices anywhere else. Favorite ingredient: “The red

mullet is a very important fish. It has something of the Greek mentality: humble yet delicious, approachable yet sophisticated.” Must try: Sashimi with Greek tuna,

eel nigiri and the entire spine of the fish fried with its skin.

GASTRONOMY

Dimitris Katrivesis La Pantera Negra | 6 Kalogrioni, Plaka | Tel (+30) 213.036.4214

“Food should be ‘short and stout,’ meaning a small quantity giving lasting pleasure.” Who he is: He studied to become a chef

in Athens and then set off for the Canary Islands and Spain to learn alongside some of the greatest chefs of the Iberian peninsula. While there, he persistently sent his resume to El Bulli every day, until he was finally let into the kitchen, where he learned beside Ferran Adrià. Shortly afterwards, he opened his own unconventional, somewhat offbeat 25-seat restaurant in Tenerife, where he blasted out heavy-metal music. He has also worked at Nihonryori RyuGin in Tokyo, the amazing Le Pavillon Élysée – Lenôtre in Paris and Dos Palillos in Barcelona. He is now chef at Athens’ La Pantera Negra. Contribution: He made Peruvian cuisine trendy and Nikkei sushi famous across Greece. In his food, you’ll find compact flavors, bizarre stocks, tiger milk and a lot of chutzpah. Favorite ingredient: Trikalinos bottar-

ga (protected designation of origin). Must try: Ceviche with sea urchin eggs,

tuna belly, caviar, lime and ajo blanco garlic paste with pistachios.

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Panaidis Eyewear boutique

Panaidis has been active in eyeweat for the past 40 years and today it boasts 11 modern outlets. Here you will find all the latest collections of eyeglasses and sunglasses from 30 famous brands such as: Celine for women who love fashion and want to stay on trend, Mykita for men and women looking for handmade luxury and pioneering design, Dior for unique designs that create waiting lists and Fendi, Miu Miu, Prada, and Stella McCartney as well. Visit one of their boutiques and see for yourself what a new pair of sunglasses can do for your new beach or city look. The new Panaidis Boutique, is the ultimate destination for those seeking the most original, special end even rare eyewear designs from all over the world. •

11 Voukourestiou, Athens - Syntagma • www.panaidis.gr

Baba Au Rum

A for Athens

9 bar

C O C K TA I L S

The Clumsies

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Dueling Μixologists Six of the city’s most inspired bartenders take on the challenge of creating original cocktails using unusual local ingredients. B Y N E N A DI M ITRIO U

he Ahtenian cocktail scene is booming. Bartenders are breaking rules, experimenting with new ingredients and molecular techniques to cook up sous vide spirits. They’re flying solo, making their own alcoholic beverages, mixers and bartending tools, continuing their training and taking part in specialized international competitions. We chose six renowned mixologists and divided them into pairs, assigning each pair one key ingredient to use in their creation. Here’s what they did with thyme, Cretan dittany and the Greek tomato! GREECE IS

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Odori Vermuteria di Atene

cocktails

THE GREEK SALAD

Panos Kanatsoulis

At the bar that’s currently No 9 on the list of the World’s 50 Best Bars, Panos, the Greek World Class Bartender of the Year, draws inspiration from the Greek salad. He prepares a cool summer cocktail with gin and a sous vide mixture of tomato water, cucumber, pepper, lemon verbena and lemon. The rim of the glass is sprinkled with a dust of dried tomato, yogurt and oregano, while the garnish is a few drops of extra virgin olive oil. All together perfect as an aperitif or alongside a Mediterranean pasta dish or a pizza.

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The Clumsies | 30 Praxitelous | Tel. (+30) 210.323.2682

The red snapper Thodoris Pyrillos

A for Athens | 2 Miaouli, Monastiraki | Tel (+30) 210.324.4244 Thodoris is considered one of the Greek capital’s most conceptual bartenders, creating cocktails that are impressive, convey an idea, support a legend or tell a story. Looking out onto the Acropolis from the 10th floor of the hotel where his bar is located, you can select a cocktail from a list inspired by Homer’s Odyssey. For this challenge, Thodoris used the tomato’s acidity and flesh to make the Red Snapper, more of an hors d’oeuvres akin to a gazpacho than a cocktail. It contains gin, lemon, a blend of Spanish Pedro Ximenez sherry, tomato juice, pepper marmalade and mint, and is served with a stick of celery. Ιt is a hearty drink, perfect for brunch.

Elias Stergiopoulos

Baba Au Rum | 6 Kleitiou, Syntagma | Tel. (+30) 211.710.9140 Baba Au Rum was the first Greek bar to make it onto the World’s Best bar list, and it’s managed to stay on it, too. It’s also the only rum bar in Athens, with an enviable selection to choose from. Elias has been working here for four years and occasionally works for Mary Pickford in Piraeus as well. Using thyme as his source of inspiration, he created an incredibly refreshing cocktail with just three ingredients in his signature less-ismore style. His Aegean Tonic is a blend of thyme liqueur, cucumber bitters and a premium mixer, a tonic created by the Greek company Three Cents. This is a long drink with a low alcohol content that simply reminds you of the sea. It is very pleasant as an early drink before a night of bar-hopping or as an aperitif.

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Τhe Aegean Tonic

A Pear of Sangria

Dimitris Giakoumakis

9 Bar | 9 Kolokotroni, Syntagma | Tel. (+30) 210.323.2795 Uninterested in fashions and trends, 9 Bar is the perfect bar for the discerning drinker. Dimitris is one of those quiet forces who looks for balance rather than panache in his creations. A Pear of Sangria, one of his menu’s five summer recommendations, is rich in the aromas of a Muscat of Tyrnavos blanc de noir, which is mixed with a homemade pear syrup and an Italian vermouth, cooked sous vide with wild thyme for added herbal notes and flavor complexity. Neither an apéritif nor a digestif, it is nonetheless a wonderful cocktail with an intensity and balance of flavor that will have you ordering another.

Manolis Lykiardopoulos

Odori Vermuteria di Atene | 2 Skouleniou, Klafthmonos | Tel. (+30) 210.331.4674 Odori has become a staple for after-office drinks or an Italian meal, after making it in just its first year onto the list of the Tales of the Cocktail Top 10 new international cocktail bars. The place is designed to resemble a garden, with leafy plants all around giving it a cool, relaxed atmosphere. The bar carries many excellent vermouths as well as vermouth blends that are made in-house. Manolis, the owner and head bartender who is best known for his aperitifs, has received numerous accolades in Greece and abroad. The dittany he chose to work with has an intense herbal flavor that resembles oregano. He combined it with other classic Greek ingredients: tsipouro, honey and a new vermouth called “Otto’s” that is produced in Athens by the creative duo behind The Clumsies. The Divine Herbalists is a light and flavorful cocktail, almost like a soft drink, with a low alcohol content that makes it perfect for pairing with food.

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Τhe Divine Herbalists

Le Minuet

Christos Houseas

42 bar | 3 Kolokotroni, Syntagma | Tel. (+30) 6948.242.455

Cretan dittany

One of the first “new era” bars to emerge in Athens in 2011, 42 Bar is a proper high-end establishment that’s all about elegance, with a shiny wooden counter, well-dressed servers, a strict no-smoking policy and eclectic music kept at discreet volume levels. Its pioneering owner Christos is responsible for shaking up the Greek bar scene by raising standards with the services he introduced. He continues to innovate today, not behind the bar, but by designing and manufacturing handsome and useful gadgets and tools for bartenders under the brand name Bassbreak. In order to tame dittany’s bitter character, he uses gin and adds a flavor punch with a distillation of Muscat grapes. After adding the juice of half a cooked lemon, he puts tonic and chili, for a slightly spicy result. Le Minuet is a complex cocktail with a deep flavor profile, a discreet smokiness and vivid acidity – just as a master would make it.

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View of Piraeus’ passenger port. In antiquity the heart of Athenian naval activity, today it is the point from which thousands of travelers catch ferries to the Aegean islands. Seen in the distance, the island of Salamis.

There’s so much to explore and enjoy in the main gateway to the Aegean islands, that you might want to take a later ferry. BY Anthony Gr ant

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A staircase leads up to the hill of Kastella, behind Mikrolimano Harbor.

tter the word “port,” with its implicit suggestion of going places, and how you tease the imagination – but say “Piraeus,” and you set it on fire. The epic Battle of Salamis, the terrible WWII bombardments, your own hard-fought departure for Mykonos or Santorini: it all happened right here at Poseidon’s mighty gate, where Athens greets the sea. Piraeus may not be the exact spot where Greece itself began, but it’s the starting point and terminus of more journeys than any algorithm could trace, and the city of Athens certainly would not be the same without it. In fact, we may be lucky to have the port at all. It’s no secret that the 480 BC showdown in the straits of Salamis, just northwest of the Piraeus peninsula, in which 378 Greek triremes trounced three times as many Persian vessels, changed the course of history. Victory might have eluded the Athenian fleet had wily Athenian general Themistocles (after whom the longest pier in the port is named) not pushed hard to fortify Piraeus in the years running up to Xerxes’ ill-fated exertions; those sturdy triremes were built here and sailed from here, so if the enemy could have destroyed Piraeus, they would have gladly done so. Instead, the well-defended harbor thrived. As for those ships launched from here, you can behold the bronze prow of an ancient galley – trident-shaped and fierce, still inexplicably graceful for a ship designed to fight – in a glass case inside the Piraeus Archaeological Museum. Think of Piraeus today, and most people picture cargo and crowds. The port is among the world’s biggest and busiest – for passenger ships, it leads Europe, according to the Piraeus Port Authority. And with China’s COSCO Shipping taking a majority stake in the port last year, along with plans to upgrade the cruise and container shipping works, the role of Piraeus in elevating Greece’s position on the Maritime Silk Road will grow.

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Ferry passengers from Crete disembark at the main Piraeus passenger port.

In ancient times Zea harbor (one of the three natural harbors in Piraeus) had docks for 196 triremes. Its marina was renovated for the 2004 Olympic Games, giving it a modern look with large harborside bar/restaurants such as Casca and Moby.

Zea is also known as Pasalimani, or Pashaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay; this is where, during the Ottoman occupation, the pashas came with their harems to swim.

True Grit And yet, Piraeus poses a predicament to the modern traveler: if you find yourself here, you’re very likely in a hurry and on your way to someplace else. Piraeus is motion and action and it is neither sentimental nor apologetic about its grit. And not just of the seafaring variety: Think Olympiacos Piraeus, the Manchester United of Greece, whose sworn enemy is not Sparta but Panathinaikos, the Athenian team – and if they’re up against them at the Karaiskakis Stadium in Neo Faliro, you’ll feel the heat. Or recall Never on Sunday, the 1960 classic in which Melina Mercouri plays an unflappable Pi-

Restaurants and cafés cling to the carefree harbor at Mikrolimano, where remnants of ancient naval ship sheds have been found underwater. On the right, the hill of Kastella rises.

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raeus prostitute (you’ve probably heard the famous, lilting bouzouki theme for which Manos Hadjidakis nabbed an Oscar) and, hand in hand with that, a generation of American Sixth Fleet sailors for whom Greece’s biggest port was a destination that beckoned to them less with its cultural treasures than its carnal invitation. So the Piraean problem is not really one of substance but one of packaging. This explains why the thousands of island-bound travelers disgorged from the packed trains arriving at Piraeus Station scurry to the quays, generally missing the little Electric Railway Museum on their right as they do, and of-

ten failing even to pause and behold the rather cool station itself. Completed in 1929 by architect Ioannis Axelos, it contains more than a soupçon of the Gare du Nord in Paris, but with a nifty Greek twist: an opalescent glass roof over the vast domed central hall. Interlinked steel beams hold it all together, and elegantly too, though it does also feel a bit like the city’s last grab at your attention before it taking an inevitable back seat to the sea. That beeline from train to ferry is often so fraught with the pressures of time that it leaves most visitors no opportunity to note that, right behind the harborside din, there’s another world. Walk

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At Mikrolimano, small fishing boats bob serenely in the placid water and an array of seaside fish tavernas hug the waterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge, in what is the perfect picture of wellheeled Athenian indulgence.

ÂŠ PERIKLES MERAKOS

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The interior of the neoclassical Municipal Theater of Piraeus sparkles. The theater first opened in 1895 and a major renovation was completed in 2013.

down narrow Kapodistriou towards Kepropos Street, or Aristidou Street in the direction of Dimitriou Gounari Street, and you’ll notice in between the decidedly non-touristy cafés and bakeries a smattering of maritime and nautical supply stores. Less salty than you might think but also more Levantine and lightdrenched, this neighborhood is one of spice markets, ferry ticket merchants and fruit vendors (the port’s central fish market is a bit further afield). But don’t venture too far from the water’s edge of what was once called Kantharos, or the Great Harbor, because if you do, you might miss a time machine, located on Akti Posidonos between Aristidou and Dimitriou Gounari Streets, that gets scant mention in most guidebooks. Largely obscured by construction fences and billboards is the ruins of the Makra 150

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Stoa (long arcade) of the Alphitopolis, the grain warehouses commissioned by Pericles himself to store the barley and wheat that supplied the ancient Athenian fleet. Fighting Spirit While you were coming into the station on the train, did you happen to look out the window and see that tall hill? No, not the Acropolis! The gateway to the islands of the Aegean was itself once an island called Mounichia that is now the steep hill of Kastella, which rises above the nearly perfectly round “little harbor” at Mikrolimano. Kastella’s streets are packed tightly with houses, many with elegant neoclassical façades. You’d never guess that, in 403 BC, this is where Thrasybulus routed the Thirty Tyrants, following the Athe-

nian defeat at Spartan hands in the Peloponnesian War. Today, you’ll find a street here that’s named for the general, while the hilltop itself is home to a strange trinity: the Church of Profitis Ilias, the modern Veakio open-air theater and, rather incongruously, a bowling alley that, ringed as it is by copies of ancient statues, falls into a whole new category of Greek kitsch. The scene at the small harbor at the bottom of the hill is light years from the cacophony of the passenger ferry section of the port. Here, small fishing boats bob serenely in the placid water and an array of seaside fish tavernas hug the water’s edge, in what is the perfect picture of wellheeled Athenian indulgence. If 2,500 years ago the southern reaches of the Piraeus coast were bastions of defense, in the last century they

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The graceful Piraeus train station was completed in 1929 by architect Ioannis Axelos, and today is the terminus of Line 1 of the Athens Metro.

were a place of refuge – and refugees. Look behind the ribbon of Mikrolimano’s posh seaside fish restaurants and cafés to the base of the Kastella Hill: there’s a cluster of red-tile roofed houses that look both quaint and a bit improbable, as if they belong to some small island port in the Saronic Gulf or elsewhere in the Aegean – the first people to live in these houses were refugees, mainly those who had fled the Great Fire of Smyrna (Izmir) in 1922. After that catastrophe, the proverbial “any port in a storm” ended up, for many, to be Piraeus. The impact of that shotgun resettlement is still being felt today, not only in terms of demographics (the population of Piraeus soared to more than 250,000 by 1928) but in Greek cuisine as well; the new arrivals brought eastern Mediterranean flavors

and spices with them. If Mikrolimano looks like a strange hole-punch in the map of the Pireaus coast, then at Zea Harbor just to the west, it looks like someone used a much bigger perforating tool. Zea is also known as Pasalimani, or Pasha’s Bay; this is where, during the Ottoman occupation, the pashas came with their harems to swim. Things changed after independence; indeed, during the 1896 Summer Olympics, this is where the swimming competitions took place. Zea lacks the island-style allure of Mikrolimano, but its sheer openness and sweep cannot help but delight. Follow the curve of Akti Moutsopoulou Street until you see the neoclassical façade of the Stringos Mansion, home to that part of the Aikaterini Laskaridis Foundation which houses an exhibit on

If you find yourself here, you’re very likely in a hurry. This explains why the thousands of islandbound travelers disgorged from the packed trains often fail to pause and behold the rather cool Piraeus Station itself.

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Admiral Lord Nelson. Keep going and you’ll arrive at the Zea Marina, a somewhat brasher version of Mikrolimano. Here’s where you’ll find the all-day bar Moby, along with lots of oversized harborside cafés and some oversized boats in the marina too: this is where the big yachts are. Gawk with abandon, tame if necessary the jealous beast within, and then move on to Freatida and the Hellenic Maritime Museum, the cultural highlight of the neighborhood. Here, exhibits cover the sweep of Greek maritime heritage from antiquity through Byzantine times and the Greek War of Independence right on to the evolution of the Greek Merchant Navy. It also has the private collection of Aristotle Onassis, with model ships from Napoleonic times and items which were once onboard his yacht, the Christina O.

Of Sacking and Statues In 1959, men in a work crew drilling at the corner of Georgiou I and Philonos were greeted by some lissome yet very hard fingers: it turned out to be the outstretched hand of the 4th c. BC bronze Piraeus Athena, a larger-than-life representation of the goddess that now resides on the second floor of the Piraeus Archaeolgical Museum, which stands midway between the main cruise ship terminal and Zea Harbor and houses three other bronzes excavated from the same site, including the early 5th c. BC Piraeus Apollo, the only archaic bronze kouros known to exist. All are characteristically evocative, but they are also remarkably intact. The answer to

1. The Lion of Piraeus is a replica; the original was looted by Francesco Morosini in 1687. 2. A view of the Ietioneia “coast,” or quay, of the Piraeus ferry passenger port. 3. Hull of the SS Hellas Liberty, a World War II cargo ship. 4. Piraeus Archaeological Museum. 5. Forward top deck of the SS Hellas Liberty. 6. Strolling along the Piraeus coast at Akti Themistokleous, in the Peiraiki section. 7. The Freatida coast. 8. The famous Greek submarine Papanikolis at the Hellenic Maritime Museum. 9. Zea Marina.

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their excellent condition lies yet again in the strategic value of Piraeus across history: when Sulla’s forces stormed in for the siege in 86 BC, he meant to clip the port’s wings for good and the locals, most archaeologists say, hid what valuables they could in a storeroom by the harbor before the Romans could plunder them. The sacking of the port was particularly brutal; elsewhere in deep pits were found the skeletons of some of those unable to evade Sulla’s brigades. What Sulla succeeded in doing – destroying Piraeus and robbing it of any influence or importance for a very long time – proved more difficult for subsequent invaders. Not that there weren’t petty indignities, or worse: in 1687, Francesco Morosini, Doge of Venice and apparent cat-lover, plucked the famous Piraeus Lion statue from the port entrance and had it shipped back to that other great naval dockyard, the Venetian Arsenale, where it remains to this day. Generally though, under its Turkish name of Aslan Liman (Lion Harbor), Piraeus drifted along in relative torpor during the period of Ottoman rule. Fast forward to World War II; the city of Athens was spared all air strikes, first by the Axis forces and then, when Germany began pulling out, by the Allied forces. Piraeus, however, was not exempted by either side. The Luftwaffe unleashed bombs on the port with particular ferocity on the first day of hostilities (April 6, 1941), and 54 more aerial attacks swiftly followed. After the Nazi invasion, more than 150 Allied bombardments preceded a full German withdrawal in 1944. The first phase of recovery began in 1945 when American army engineers helped to pull wreckage from the

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sea and to repair the docks and storehouses. If you’d like a solid reminder of this postwar era, you can find one behind the quay where the big ferries for Crete tie up (look for Gate E2). That’s where the 440-foot long SS Hellas Liberty, built in 1943 as the SS Arthur M. Huddell, is docked. A steam-powered cargo ship that helped supply the Allied Forces, it was the kind of “liberty ship” purchased after the war by magnates like Onassis and Niarchos on “sweetheart” terms to help offset their substantial wartime losses. After the military junta took over Greece in 1967, Greek shipowners who had left Piraeus were actually lured back, while the storied port sirens, the ladies of the night, were more or less shown the door. Aristides Skylitsis, mayor of Piraeus at the time, cleaned up the fabled Troumba red-light district so that, while brothels closed, shipping companies moved in. Sea power, staying power Given the turbulent history of this place, it is amazing that it survived at all, let alone that it thrived. Consider the uneasy past of the Municipal Theater of Piraeus, built in 1895 and restored in 2012. Between those years, the building was occupied by French soldiers in World War I; housed Greek refugees from the Asia Minor catastrophe of 1922; made it through extensive Allied bombings twenty years later; and subsequently came through two sizeable earthquakes. Even before it was built, however, there was drama; when workers started excavating the construction site in 1884, they found something to give Phantom of the Opera a run for its money: ruins of a long-hidden Dionysian temple as well as columns and

water tanks from dwellings belonging to worshipers of that ancient cult. Scratch many a self-described Athenian and you’ll find that they’re really from Piraeus. “I always knew I’d come back to Piraeus,” says Chef Lefteris Lazarou, who relocated his gourmet restaurant Varoulko from Athens to the marina at Mikrolimano in 2014. “After all,” he says, “I was born here.” So was Yiannis Kaimenakis, owner of Paleo Wine Bar, a breezy welcoming spot that opened last year in a refurbished old warehouse near the big boats that make the Athens-Heraklion run. As with any port, it’s the sea that gives Piraeus its staying power. Which may be why the ultimate pastime here is finding the perfect seafood taverna, ideally with a view over the blue. Such places needn’t be fancy; indeed, the best are usually not. The street called Akti Themistokleos in the Peiraiki district is lined with seafood eateries, some overlooking what’s left of the walls erected by the Athenian general Conon in 394 BC. Around the corner from the Hellenic Naval Academy at the fish place Yperokeanio on Marias Chatzikyriakou Street, you might glance up from your fried salt cod and see the contours of a cruise ship gliding past the replica Piraeus Lion at the end of the road. With that maddening handmaiden of fantasy, the Aegean Sea, beckoning to them, it’s easy to understand why so many travelers skip Piraeus in their rush towards the islands, but it’s a shame, too, because when you factor in the Athenian connection – which is a profound one – it is, objectively speaking, the greatest port there is. So what if you miss your ferry? In Piraeus, friends, you can rest assured there will always be another one.

While it is the nature of any port that people will come and go, the sea is what gives Piraeus its staying power.

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ÂŠ PERIKLES MERAKOS

Piraeus is a rocky limestone peninsula that was originally an island. Best-known for its harbors and maritime lore, it still has a few beaches, too.

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The Ancient Ship Sheds

The Long Walls of Piraeus . . . A ND W HE R E T O S EE W H AT ’ S L E F T O F T HE M

Athens owed some of its early military triumphs to its famous Long Walls, which essentially created an elevated stone highway designed to keep the city connected to its fleet in times of war. These elongated ramparts helped seal the citystate’s status as a maritime power. Themistocles had wanted to build the walls as early as 493 BC but Persian incursions stymied those efforts, so construction only began in earnest circa 450 BC under Pericles, initially with two walls running all the way to Piraeus and a separate one to Phalerum, a port that would eventually fall into disuse as Piraeus rose. The first two walls were some four miles long, 65 feet high and 524 feet apart from each other. These structures served Athens well during the Peloponnesian War, until the Spartans finally succeeded in knocking them down in 404 BC. A decade later, Athens would rebuild them under the direction of their general, Conon. Had 156

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it not been for the ruthlessness of the Roman general Sulla, who destroyed the Long Walls during the Siege of Athens and Piraeus, you might still have been able to walk along these fortifications, but with a little imagination you can picture them as you head from Athens to the port along busy Pireos Street. There are some locations in Piraeus where stones in situ mean you don’t have to work as hard to imagine the wall. About a mile and a half of these stones are still extant, notably along Akti Themistokleous in the Peiraiki neighborhood. At the northern perimeter of Kantharos, on a hill called Kastraki – above the quays where you take the ferries to Lesvos and Crete – you will find ruins of the ancient Ietonia Gate, dating from 411 BC. The short round stone towers there are from Hellenistic times, but the stones beneath them are possibly remnants of the Long Walls.

Ancient Athens had a mighty navy, which meant it needed a secure place to build and house the vessels of the fleet. When Piraeus was the Athenian war port, there were 82 ship sheds – the neosoikoi of antiquity – and jetties in the Mounichia (Mikrolimano) port area alone, all open at the sea end and protected by tall stone towers. Each shed was up to 26 feet tall, 164 feet long, and was built specifically for berthing the triremes of the fleet, which were otherwise susceptible to water damage and shipworm. The scope of the ancient naval base here only came to light in recent years, thanks largely to the efforts of marine archaeologist Bjørn Lovén of the University of Copenhagen and a team of Greeks who worked with him. At Mikrolimano, they discovered the ruins of a 107 sq. ft. tower just inches beneath the water. They also excavated six of the original neosoikoi constructed around 493 BC, which is when, according to numerous sources, Piraeus was officially pressed into service as home of the Athenian fleet. Taken as a whole, these were nothing less than the foundation stones of a naval power no political player could afford to ignore.

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Archaeological Museum of piraeus

feeding mind and body T HE B E S T A DD R E S S E S F O R C U LT U R E A ND F O O D

B Y A NTHONY G R A NT

With its not so prominent location but unique collection of items from the 5th to 4th century B.C., the museum easily qualifies as a hidden gem. The most famous artifacts on display here are the four large bronze statues on the upper floor; these include the world’s only known Archaic bronze kouros, a representation of the god Apollo. •

31 Charilaou Trikoupi

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Tel. (+30) 210.452.1598

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Open Tue-Sun 8:00-15:00.

Hellenic Maritime Museum The largest maritime museum in Greece has more than model ships to offer. Historical maps, paintings and more delineate the sweeping arc of Grecian naval history, from antiquity through the Byzantine era, the Revolution of 1821 and modern commercial shipping history, too. •

12 Akti Themistokleous

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Tel. (+30) 210.451.6264

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Open Tue-Sat 9:00-14:00

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Nelson Collection The Aikaterini Laskaridis Foundation is housed in three separate buildings at Zea Marina but its star attraction, artifacts that belonged to England’s greatest naval hero, Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson, is in the neoclassical manor known as the Stringos Mansion. The collection even includes a lock from his hair. •

36 Deftheros Merarchias &

Aktis Moutsopoulou • Tel. (+30) 210.452.3937 • Open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00.

SS Hellas Liberty American sailors on shore leave are no longer a common sight in Piraeus, but to get a flavor of that aspect of the port’s past, have a look at this impressive steam-powered cargo ship built during the Second World War era. It was towed from Norfolk, Virginia, in 2008 and now houses a museum dedicated to the Greek Merchant Marine. •

Gate E2, Piraeus Port

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Open daily 10:00-16:00

Margaro

This industrial-chic gastropub on the edge of Zea Marina dispels the notion that all you can find in Piraeus is fried fish. • Akti Themistokleous & 1

The definitive Piraeus seafood taverna is all about freshness, not frills. Come for the fried shrimp and fried red mullet, best enjoyed slowly and with ouzo on the rocks.

Pargas • www.corksandforks.gr • Tel. (+30) 215.515.9792.

Jimmy’s Fish A posh spot for grilled fish with nautically inspired décor inside and out. • 46 Akti Koumoundourou, Mikrolimano • Tel. (+30) 210.412.4417.

O KAPELEIOU TOU ZAHOU In the working-class neighborhood of Kaminia on the northern perimeter of Piraeus is this excellent fish taverna, noted for its fish soup and fried cod.

• 126 • Tel.

Chatzikiriakou (+30) 210 4514226

Paleo Wine Bar In this restored textile warehouse dating from 1872, you can try any of some 300 wines from around the Mediterranean as selected by owner Yiannis Kaimenakis. Pair your selection with the likes of traditional Kefalonian meat pie or oven-roasted grouper from Amorgos. • 39

Polydefkous (+30) 210.412.5204

• Tel.

• 37 Komotinis • Tel. (+30) 210.481.3325.

Archaeological Museum of piraeus

The Corks & Forks

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Jimmy’s Fish

Papaioannou

caramelized lentils.

Fried seafood takes center stage at this perennially posh spot in Mikrolimano. What’s on offer depends on the daily catch.

54-56 Akti Koumoundourou, Mikrolimano • Tel. (+30) 210.522.8400 • www.varoulko.gr

42 Akti Koumoundourou • Tel. (+30) 210.422.5059 •

Teo’s Oyzobox Contemporary, light-filled ouzerie with both fish and non-seafood dishes. • •

50 Akti Koumoundourou Tel. (+30) 210.410.1110

Varoulko Seaside This prestigious seaside restaurant overseen by chef Lefteris Lazarou serves gourmet fare based on what the fish market turns up daily, but you can count on classic dishes like calamari with pesto and grilled cuttlefish with

Yperokeanion

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Vrachia Tis Piraikis Its name means the “rocks of Peiraiki” and appropriately, this budget-friendly seafood taverna sits opposite the rocks and a portion of the Cononian walls. Fresh grilled octopus is a house specialty. • •

300 Akti Themistokleous Tel. (+30) 210 4538461

Yperokeanion This former maritime supplies warehouse is one of the best places for grilled seafood classics and meze dishes with a twist. • 48 Chatzikiriakou •

Tel. (+30) 210 4180030

Your one-stop source for inside information on what is all about.