OLIVE OIL AN OLIVE OIL LOVER’S GUIDE TO THE ORGANIC OILS OF SPAIN
DORIAN YATES
Author of the Green Earth Guide: Traveling Naturally in Spain
OLIVE OIL
AN OLIVE OIL LOVER’S GUIDE TO THE ORGANIC OILS OF SPAIN A TRAVELING NATURALLY GUIDE
Dorian Yates
Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain, 1st Edition Copyright © 2011 Dorian Yates. Photographs copyright © 2011 Dorian Yates. All rights reserved. No portion of this book, except for brief review, may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without the written permission of the author. For information contact Dorian Yates at info@travelingnaturally.com. Sweetwater Hill Press South Strafford, VT 05070 January 2011 Cover and interior photos by Dorian Yates, except where supplied by the olive oil company Cover design by Kate Siepmann Book design & logo by Sandra Smith-Ordway Tasting Notes Chart by Kate Siepmann, ArtichokeArts Printed in the United States of America Green Earth Guide: Traveling Naturally publications are available through most bookstores and on-line booksellers, as well as the Traveling Naturally Web site. For further information, visit www.travelingnaturally.com LIBRARY OF CONGRESS DATA
Yates, Dorian. Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain / Dorian Yates.—1st ed. p. cm. ISBN 978-1-45655-788-1 Library of Congress Control Number: 2011900950 1. Spain—Guidebooks. 2. Environmental responsibility—Spain. 3. Green movement—Spain. 4. Sustainable living—Spain. 5. Olive Oil—Spain I. Title.
To Carlta Doina, Pieter, Susan, Helen And my dear Pueblo Ingles amigos
Praise for the Green Earth Guides to France and Spain Green Earth Guide: Traveling Naturally in France—Recommended —STEVE SMITH, author RICK STEVES’ FRANCE 2010 “Green Earth Guide is the travel resource for all of us concerned about global warming and reducing our carbon footprints. It is an essential companion for every traveler wanting to make environmental choices on the road.” —ROBERT F. KENNEDY, JR. Environmental lawyer and activist “Filled with great information about where to find natural, organic foods and wines throughout France, Green Earth Guide is a must have for food lovers and supporters of organic agriculture.” —NELL NEWMAN, President, Newman’s Own Organics “The first travel guidebook supporting a range of green economies from renewable energy and sustainable agriculture to natural health and public transportation, Green Earth Guide is full of invaluable resources about how to travel on any budget with an eco-conscience. Now you can make your individual journey a part of the Earth’s journey toward healing.” —VAN JONES, author of The Green Collar Economy “If you want to support local and sustainable economies while traveling in Spain, you must have the essential Green Earth Guide. A one-stop resource for organic food, natural health care, public transport, renewable energy sites, and eco-accommodations—don’t go to Spain without it.” — HELENA NORBERG-HODGE, author of, Ancient Futures: Learning from Ladakh; founder and director of the International Society for Ecology and Culture (ISEC) “Traveling Naturally in Spain is indispensable for localvores and anyone who loves fresh, organic food, as well as for vegetarians and people with special diet needs.” —EUGENIA BONE, author Well-Preserved and At Mesa’s Edge “If you have an appetite for travel, a modest budget, and a carbon-conscious heart—look no further. Green Earth Guide: Traveling Naturally in France is your perfect travel companion.” —THE CARBON FUND “You don't have to know French to enjoy this book or to find it useful. All you need to be is the twenty-first-century traveler with a conscience. You don't even need prior desire to go to France. I assure you that you'll have plenty of that by the time you finish this book.” —ECO-LIBRIS “Conceived to help eco-conscious travelers stay green, this book’s listings and information are a welcome complement to a more detailed “traditional” travel guidebook to France.” —LILIPOH Magazine
“For those of you planning a trip to France, we highly recommend the book from Dorian Yates; much more than a travel book…Nice way to visit the country in an alternative, greener way.” —GREENTY, Green Travel Search Engine
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain is a love-song to Spain and all the wonderful farmers, vintners, and olive producers who dot the country, caring for the earth in much the same way as their ancestors did. I am most grateful to all the dedicated organic and biodynamic farmers that I met, as well as those I didn’t meet, who took the time to share their products and information with me. My thanks go to my friends who indulged my passion for olive oil and tastings. Stateside, the usual suspects supported my olive oil habit and my work. Special thanks always to Leigh, Lis, Weezy, April, Colleen, Mary and Kate. And I would be lost in the production world without Sandra Smith-Ordway.
CONTENTS How to Use This Book........................................................................iii Olive Oil ..............................................................................................v Olive Oil in Spain ................................................................................1 The Olives ...........................................................................................5 The Oils .............................................................................................11 Recipes with Olive Oil.......................................................................35 Tasting Notes and Tools ....................................................................45
MORE INFORMATION About Traveling Naturally .................................................................46 about the author ................................................................................47
i
Š photo courtesy of Olicatessen
ii
How to Use This Book Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain is designed to inform travelers and foodies about the liquid gold of Spain. The Guide is divided into five sections. The first offers cultural and historical information about olives and olive oil in Spain and the Mediterranean region. The second is focused on the olive varieties in Spain. The third is the heart of the book and provides listings of almost fifty organic olive oil producers in Spain. At the end of the book there are a few recipes, tasting tips and a chart, and information WEB SITE about where to find updates and additional information NAVIGATION TIPS about Traveling Naturally and the Green Earth Guides. Some helpful words to While I have tried to be comprehensive in this Guide, it does not include all the organic olive oils in Spain. My apologies for any omissions. I encourage visitors in Spain to explore local oils not listed here, when possible, in addition to enjoying the bounty listed in this Guide. Oils available in the U.S. are noted under Bottle Size in the listings. Web sites are included so that you can have access to the maximum amount of information available. Most of the Web sites are in Spanish only. Sometimes an English version is available by finding and clicking on a small British flag, usually in the upper right or upper left of the Web page (although it can be at the bottom as well). English Web page options may also present as simply an “E”, or “EN”, or by clicking on a scroll-down menu for “idioma.” See “Web Site Navigation Tips” for useful Spanish words.
know while on a Spanishonly Web site: Aceite de oliva = olive oil Aceitunas or olivas = olives Descargar = download Descubrir = discover Ecotienda or supermercado ecologico = organic store Encontrar nuestras tiendas = find our stores Enlaces = links Mercat or Mercado = market Pagina principal = home page Productos = products
Sometimes English versions are not as complete as the Spanish site, so you may end up employing Google translate or some other translating tool to get all the information you need.
Puntos de venta = points of sale, or retail outlets Tienda = store
The Fine Print Great care and attention has gone into the preparation of this guidebook, but prices change and businesses move or close. Please understand that these alterations are beyond our control, and that neither the author nor the publisher is liable for any loss, inconvenience, or injury.
iii
iv
Olive Oil My love affair with olive oil began when I started traveling around Europe in earnest. Always on the look out for locally-produced foods and products, I was somewhat overwhelmed by the number and variety of fresh olive oils available. Living in New England where olives do not grow, I was delighted to find countries steeped in olive culture. I confess to loving every aspect of the olive. The trees are majestic. The wood is richly colored. The olives are delicious, and the oil sublime. Olive trees, beautiful with silvery green leaves, can live for hundreds of years—some even live for up to one thousand years. Olive oil production is ancient and its healthgiving properties are renowned. Current research shows that the monounsaturated fat in olive oil is beneficial as are the polyphenols— antioxidants which protect the body from free-radical damage. Much has been made of the Mediterranean Diet, and many factors contribute to the health benefits of the diet and lifestyle including fresh fruits and vegetables, ample sunshine and fresh air, unrefined carbohydrates and an absence of fast foods. But its hallmark feature is the consumption of olive oil—glorious olive oil. As you explore these wonderful, organic Spanish olive oils, think of them as liquid sunshine. Enjoy the tastes and aromas, appreciating the variety of color and flavor. It should be noted that there are definitely differences in the quality and integrity of olive oils. The freshest and most minimally processed provide the most health benefits. The olive oils included in Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain are all classified as extra virgin olive oil and are some of the finest and healthiest olive oils in the world.
v
ONE
Olive Oil in Spain Olives and Olive Oil are an integral part of the Mediterranean region where ninetyfive percent of the world’s olive trees grow and have grown for thousands of years. Italy is usually thought of as the country that produces the most olive oil, but it is actually Spain that produces OLIVES & OIL BY almost half of the world’s olive oil. (Olive oil can be ANOTHER NAME labeled as “Imported from Italy” but that only means it Olive Oil = Aceite de Oliva was bottled there—the oil might have come from any(in Spanish), Olibolioa (in where). Basque), Oli (in Catalan), Azeite (in Galician)
Similar to wine, many olive oils can be certified with a Denomination of Origin for authenticity. They are classified by where they are produced and by certain criteria, such as olive varieties used.There are over thirty Denominations of Origin (Denominaciones de Origen) for olive oil in Spain—see page 33 for D.O. listings. Organic oils do not always carry a D.O., but are certified as organic by one or more certifying agencies. See the list of certification organizations on page 32.
Olive = Aceituna (s) (from Arabic) or Oliva (s) (from Latin) (in Spanish), Oliba (s) (in Basque), Oliva (es) (in Catalan) Olive Tree = Olivo or Acebucho (in Spanish), Olivera (in Catalan)
Olives grow in every region in Spain providing a large selection of oils. Many Spaniards have a variety in their cupboards. It is worth sampling oils from many different areas and producers to witness how each has its own distinct taste and quality. There are numerous varieties and, like wines, many aspects affect the taste, color and quality of olive oils. The terroir—that is the soil, climate, and local environment—all affect the olives.The varieties of olives grown, and how they are cultivated, harvested and processed, all contribute to the uniqueness of an oil. 1
2 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
OLIVE OIL SPECIALTY STORES With over 150 olive oils from all over Spain, and at least ten organic oils, the Patrimonio Comunal Olivarero in Madrid looks like it would be high priced, but it is not; rather, it is a cooperative organization to promote olive oils. A must stop for any olive oil lover or connoisseur. Patrimonio Comunal Olivarero, C/ Mejía Lequerica, 1, 28004 Madrid; Tel: 913 080 505; Email: tienda@pco.es; Web: www.pco.es; open Monday to Friday from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm/5:00 pm to 8:00 pm, Saturday from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm; Metro: Alonso Martínez (exit Pl. Santa Bárbara and walk down the street to the end of the Plaza—Olivarero is on the corner). In Barcelona there is a store called Oro Líquido that sells olive oils from all over Spain. Oro Líquido, C/ de la Palla, 8, 08002 Barcelona; Tel: 933 022 980; Web: www.oroliquido.es; Metro: Liceu or Jaume I; open Tuesday to Saturday 10:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., Sunday 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., closed Monday. In Valencia you can find organic olive oils at the Mercado Central stalls, La Morhada and Super Gourmet & at health food stores, Terra Verde, Ecorganic, Esencial and others.
The level of acidity is a marker of the quality of an oil. Oils with low acidity levels are considered of the highest quality and taste, and these are made from olives that have been processed and pressed within twenty-four to forty-eight hours of harvest with ideal acidity levels falling below 0.60% (the criteria for extra virgin oil is 0.80% and below). That said, do not makes choices based on acidity levels alone, since some unscrupulous producers (none listed here) will chemically alter oils to reduce the acidity when the oil is low-quality. These are generally termed “refined” olive oil. Minimizing the time between harvest and pressing and keeping the processing at low temperatures protects the olives and oil from oxidation, maintaining the rich nutrients of the oil. Many fine olive oils are unfiltered. This does not mean that the olives have not been cleaned, but rather that the oil itself has been kept in its whole form, retaining the nutrients and qualities of the fruit. In the cultivation and processing of organic oils pesticides and synthetic fertilizers are not used. The freshest, highest quality and lowest acidity olive oils come from olives that are hand harvested and pressed within twenty-four hours of harvest. The Green Earth Guide focuses on the rich assortment of organic olive oils available throughout Spain. Each region has its own organic certification organization—see page 32 for specific information.
Chapter 1 – Olive Oil in Spain 3
The abundance of olive oil in Spain makes for very inexpensive oils. Historically olive oil was not only used for eating, but also as lamp oil, hence the term lampante, which is still used for industrial grade oils not suitable for food use. Non-organic olive oil can be very inexpensive in Spain—bottles can be had for 1 to 3 euros (the equivalent of $1.50 to $4.50). Organic olive oil is more expensive in Spain, but still substantially cheaper than what you pay in the United States—about one-third to onehalf the price. A one liter bottle of organic olive oil in Spain runs about the equivalent of $10 to $15, while a 500 ml bottle is about $6 to $9. In the United States, due to shipping and import fees, expect to pay $25 to $50 for a liter of Spanish organic olive oil.
OLIVE OIL MUSEUMS•FESTIVALS The Baena Olive Oil Museum is housed in an old mill in the town of Baena, considered the city of olives and olive oil in the Andalucia region. Baena Museum of Olives and Oil (Museo del Olivar y el Aceite) C/ Cañada, 7, Baena; Tel: 957 691 641; Email: info@museoaceite.com; Web: www.museoaceite.com; open Tuesday to Saturday from 11:00 am to 2:00 pm/4:00 pm to 6 pm (6 pm to 8 pm in the summer), Sundays and Holidays from 11:00 am to 2:00 pm The Fundacion Patrimonio Comunal Olivarero is a museum that is part of the Patrimonio Comunal olive oil cooperative listed on page 2. Fundacion Patrimonio Comunal Olivarero, Carretera de Orgaz, s/n, 455400 Mora (Toledo); Tel: 925 300 895; Email: museo@pco.es; Web: www.pco.es The Segorbe Olive Oil Museum is housed in the basement of a restored old building and mill . The upper floors are accommodations for 2-4 people. Museo del Aceite Segorbe, Plaza Belluga 1, 12400 Segorbe (Valencia); Tel: 964 712 045; Web: www.labelluga.com The Annual Olive and Olive Oil Festival (Jornadas del Olivar y el Aceite) in Baena is held during November. Check the city of Baena Web site for actual dates; Web: www.baena.es Walk or bike the Via Verde del Aceite (Olive Oil Greenway), with over 30 miles (55 km) of trails through Jaen’s olive country. For route details see the Andalucia tourist information Web site: www.andalucia.com/rural/walking/viasverdeoliveoil.htm Friends of Olive Trees (Amics de l’Olivera in Valenciano) in Castellon provides information about monument olive trees (up to 1,000 years old) and lists 5 walking routes amid olive groves. The Web site is in Valenciano so if you need to translate it choose Catalan on Google translate; Web: www.amicsolivera.com; routes listed at; www.amicsolivera.com/RUTES.htm
4 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
The Regions of Spain Spain has seventeen regions total—fifteen on the mainland plus two sets of islands. There are also two Spanish territories in Morrocco.
Top Olive Oil Producing Regions & Percentage of Oil Produced
1—Andalucia—75%, 2—Castilla-La Mancha—14%, 3—Extremadura—6%, 4—Cataluña—4% 5—Aragon & Comunidad Valenciana—1%
TWO
The Olives There are more than 260 olive varieties grown in Spain. Only about twenty-five of these are used in the majority of olive oils. The most common ones are listed here, but if you are in Spain you will find small-batch, local oils made with some of the less common varieties. The Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity Ark of Taste project catalogs and promotes indigenous foods at risk of extinction (www.slowfoodfoundation.org). More than 900 foods from fifty countries have been identified so far. In Spain this includes seventynine foods—four of which are oil-producing olives. These four indigenous olives are all from the region of Valencia on the east coast of Spain, between Castellon and Alicante. The Blanqueta and Alfafarenca olives are native to an area between the cities of Valencia and Alicante sometimes referred to as the “Tuscany of Spain” for its green hills and vegetation. Maestrat and Serrana Espadan olives are from slightly north in Castellon. The Serrana Espadan come from the Sierra Espadan Nature Reserve between the cities of Valencia and Castellon. Maestrat olives, from 1,000 year old trees, are made into very limited batches of oil and sold locally in Castellon and Valencia (Valencia and Castellon are both the names of cities and provinces within the Region of Valencia). The millennium or monument trees as they are called are being catalogued by the Friends of Olive Trees (Amics de l’Olivera in Valenciano) organization in Castellon (see page 3 for more information). 204 trees in eighteen towns have been documented. These produce more common olives as well as lesser known varieties such as Forge or Farga and Early Montan.
5
6 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Olives can be ready to pick when they are green and firm, but certain varieties are left on the tree to turn brown or black and soften the flesh. The olive harvest season runs between November and February. Each region has particular characteristics. Andalucia is the largest olive-producing region in Spain with the provinces of Jaen and Cordoba being the highest producers within Andalucia. Andalucia is a large region covering the southernmost part of Spain with varied landscapes from mountains to seacoast beaches. Olives rule in Andalucia and sometimes all you can see from your train or car window are miles of olive trees. Castilla-La Mancha, in the middle of Spain, is dry and arid. Extremadura borders Portugal and is the least populated region. Like Castilla-La Mancha, Extremadura tends to be dry. Catalunya (Catalonia in English) is the lushest of the olive growing regions, with more water and cooler temperatures. Aragon, to the west of Catalonia, and Valencia, to the south, produce the least amount of olive oil, but offer some delicious special oils. Murcia doesn’t make the percentage list but the sun-soaked area (highest sun days per year) produces some excellent oils.
The Olive Varieties: Arbequina Arbequinas are typically a more northern variety grown in the regions of Catalonia and Aragon. Arbequinas are small, high-oil yield and high in linoleic acid so easy to oxidize. Due to this it is best to store oil made from these olives in a cool dark spot. Carrasqueña Carraqueña olives grow in the Andalucian province of Cordoba and the Extremadura province of Badajoz. Cornicabra Cornicabra olives are grown in central Spain in the areas of Toledo and Cuidad Real in the Castilla-La Mancha region. Cornicabra means “goat horn” and these olives are so named because of their horn-like shape. They are high in antioxidants so the oil they produce is very stable. Cuquillo Cuquillo olives, native to Andalucia, are similar in size to their Catalonia cousins, arbequina olives.
Chapter 2 – The Olives
7
Empeltre Empeltre olives, also known as Aragonesa, Injerto, and Mallorquina, are grown on the Balearic Islands and in the Ebro River Valley, which runs through the regions of Aragon and Catalonia. Empeltre olives do not keep long, so oils made from them should be used soon after opening rather than storing. Empeltre olives tend to have a smooth taste and are sometimes mixed with stronger or more bitter olives to mellow the flavor. Hojiblanca(o) Hojiblanca, meaning white leaf in Spanish, is an Andalucian olive grown especially in the areas of Seville, Cordoba and Malaga. Over 15% of Andalucian olives are Hojiblanca, named for the whitish color of the leaf-backs. Lechín Lechin olives are typically grown in Andalucia in the provinces of Seville and Granada. The meat of these olives is milky white—hence the name Lechin (Leche means milk in Spanish) Manzanilla(o) Manzanillas are medium size olives, native to Andalucia and are one of the most prevalent varieties grown around the world. Manzana means apple in Spanish and so Manzanilla means “little apple.” Morisca Morisca olives are grown in the region of Extremadura in the western part of Spain on the border of Portugal. Nevadillo Blanco Nevadillo Blanco olives are native to the Cordoba area. Picual About half the olives grown in Spain are Picual olives grown throughout Andalucia, mostly in the province of Jaen. These high-oil yielding olives are the source of many olive oils. Picudo Picudo olives, named for their pointy tips, are one of the many varieties grown in Andalucia in the provinces of Cordoba, Granada, Jaen and Malaga.
8 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Serrana Serrana olives are native to the region of Catalonia. Verdial Verdial actually is not one single olive variety but rather the name given to a number of local varieties grown in the regions of Andalucia and Extremadura. The olives tend to be large with a fat content as high as twenty-two percent. Needless to say these olives are great oil producers. Other Varieties Some of the other varieties used in the oils listed in this Guide include Cornezuelo, Pajarero, Verdeña, Picolimon, Royal Baldon Cañada, and Villalonga.
Production While many large olive oil producers rely on mechanized harvesting, many of the oils listed in this Guide still use traditional hand-picking as the preferred method to insure the highest quality and freshest oils. Once olives are harvested it is imperative that they are pressed and processed as quickly as possible to avoid rancidity and reduction of quality. Many olive oil producers have a mill (almazara) right on the farm or estate to shorten the time between harvest and pressing. At the mill, the olives are cleaned, made into a paste and then put under pressure to extract the oil from the pomace. For those familiar with apple cider pressing, it is a similar process, the difference being that with apple cider once you have pressed the fruit you have your product. With olive oil you want to separate the water from the oil. This is usually done with a centrifuge. For oils to be labeled as cold-pressed or extracted, European Union law requires that the olives and oil not reach temperatures higher than 80ºF (27ºC). Higher temperatures cause the oil to loose nutrients, aroma and quality. All the oils listed in this Guide are coldpressed and extra virgin. Once the oil is separated, it is bottled and sealed to maintain freshness. The results of which you will see in the next chapter.
Chapter 2 – The Olives
© photo courtesy of Tío Fulgencio
OLIVE OIL BOTTLE SIZE Spain and other European countries use the metric system so bottles of olive oil are listed as they are sold, generally in 250 ml, 500ml, 750 ml, 1, 3 and 5 liter containers. Approximate equivalencies in fluid ounces follow for U.S. consumers. 250 ml (1/4 of a liter) = 8 oz 500 ml (1/2 of a liter) = 17 oz 750 ml (3/4 of a liter) = 25 oz 1 liter = 34 oz 3 liters = 101 oz (just over 3 quarts) 5 liters = 169 oz (over 5 quarts)
9
THREE
OLIVE OIL DEFINED Terms used to identify olive oils include Extra Virgin, Virgin and Pure.
The Oils The flavors of olive oils can vary widely from mild to strong, smooth to bitter, fresh to peppery. When tasting oils treat them as you would any fine food, taking the time to observe the color, flavors, scents. See Tasting Notes and Tools on page 45 for more information about the scents and flavors of olive oil. Olive oils range in color from green to yellow. Greener oils tend to be from olives that were picked while green and firm. Oils in the more yellow spectrum are from olives left on the tree to ripen, sweeten and soften. I have held off proclaiming my favorite oils, since oils, like wines are subject to not just the actual flavors but also the context and atmosphere in which you are eating. Mood, environment, accompanying food and drink, all effect the taste of the oil, as do personal preferences. I have hosted enough olive oil tastings to know that everyone has different “favorites” and sometimes these change even over the course of an evening. So enjoy the exploration and the oils.
11
Extra Virgin Olive Oil comes from the first pressing and must have no more than 0.80% acidity. This oil should not be used for cooking but rather as a “finishing” oil such as for dressings and drizzled over already cooked meals, salads, breads, and other dishes. Virgin Olive Oil must have less than 2.0% acidity. Both Extra Virgin and Virgin olive oils must be produced by mechanical means rather than with any added chemicals and can not be mixed with other oils. Oils that are labeled as “Pure Olive Oil” are deceptively named as these are actually a blend of lower quality oils and have usually been chemically altered to lower their acidity levels. Similarly “Refined Oil” is low quality oil.
12 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Aceites Palacio Olive varieties: Cornicabra, Empeltre, Arbequina, Picual Acidity: 0.80% Color: yellow-green Region: Aragon Certified organic by CAACV Bottle size: 250 ml, 750 ml bottles, 1, 2, 5 L Aceites Palacio, Calle San Lorenzo, 1, 22212 Alberuela de Tubo (Huesca, Aragon); Tel: 974 395 050; Web: www.aceitespalacio.com Aceites Palacio is a family company founded in 1838. It makes organic olive oil, as well as packages other oils (non-organic olive and sunflower) and a special reserve of extra pure olive oil also packaged in glass bottles.
AESA Olv Olive varieties: Arbequina, Picual, Cornicabra, Picudo Acidity: 0.80% Color: yellow-green Region: Andalucia Certified organic by CAAE Bottle size: 250 ml, 500 ml, 750 ml bottles AESA, Paseo de la Libertad, 15-1°, 02001 Albacete; Tel: 967 380 577; Web: www.almazaraalcaraz.com AESA’s organic olive oil is made from olives grown by 88 members farming almost 2500 acres organically in Sierra de Alcaraz. The mill is near one of Spain’s Vias Verdes (Green Ways) for hiking and biking. AESA also produces Sabuco de Nantes (1 & 5 liters) and Ooleum de la Via Verde organic oils.
Chapter 3 – The Oils
Aurora Real Olive varieties: Cornicabra, Cuquillo, Piñon, Manzanilla Acidity: 0.18% Color: deep yellow Region: Valencia Certified organic by CAECV Bottle size: 500 ml, 2 L Oleicola del Cabriel, C/ Don Luis Bernat nº 11 Venta del Moro, 46310 Valencia; Tel: 687 573 558; Web: http://oleicoladelcabriel.com Produced by Oleicola del Cabriel, in the heart of the Natural Park Las Hoces del Cabriel.
Baldona Aceite de Oliva Virgin Extra Olive varieties: Royal Baldon Cañada, with up to 20% Arbequina & Picual Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: yellowish Region: Valencia Certified organic by CAECV Bottle size: 0.20 Liter Produced by San Cristobal Cooperativa Valenciana, Calle Biar 1, 03409 Cañada (Alicante); Tel: 965 820 079 The San Cristobal Cooperativa Valenciana produces Baldona oil in small bottles for local sale using mostly Royal Baldon Cañada olives, a local variety.
13
14 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
CUNA Olive varieties: Morisca (a Verdial), Picual and Carrasqueña Acidity: 0.30% Color: yellow-green Region: Extremadura Certified organic by CRAEX Bottle size: 250 ml, 500 ml, 750 ml, 2 liter CUNA, Avda. Reina Sofía s/n (Pol. Cepansa), 06800 Mérida (Badajoz); Tel: 324 301 753; Web: www.cuna.com.es CUNA oil comes from a cooperative in the southwestern Extremadura region where 467 members farm organically and hand-harvest the olives. CUNA’s olive oil won an award at the international organic trade show, Biofach 2010.
Casa Pareja Olive varieties: mostly Arbequina, secondary Picual, Cuquillo and Hojiblanca Acidity below 0.40%. Color: green Region: Murcia Certified organic by CAE Murcia Bottle size: 500 ml, 750 ml (U.S.A.), 3 liter and 5 liter Casa Pareja, Plaza Constitución, 2, Apartado 178 30520 Jumilla (Murcia); Tel: 699 940 143; Web: www.casapareja.es Casa Pareja is a certified organic olive oil from the sun drenched region of Murcia in the southeast of Spain. Casa Pareja olives grow on four hundred year old trees on over eight hundred organic acres. Casa Pareja processes their olives the same day as they are harvested resulting in low acidity levels.
Chapter 3 – The Oils
Hacienda Chambergo Olive varieties: 100% Arbequina or 100% Picolimon Acidity: 0.15% Color: gold-greenish Region: Andalucia Certified by CAAE Bottle size: 250 ml, 500 ml, 750 ml in glass, PET 1, 2 & 5 liter Chambergo Cia. de Exportación S.L., Cortijo la Reina, A-4, KM 449, 41400 Écija (Sevilla); Tel: 954 832 709; Email: info@biochambergo.com; Web: www.biochambergo.com Chambergo is the only commercial producer in the world that produces organic olive oil from Picolimon olives. Olives from Chambergo’s more than 70,000 olive trees are processed within 12 hours of harvest. They offer olive oil, as well as organic olives, from the Sevilla area in Andalucia.
Can Solivera Wild Olive varieties: Arbequina Acidity below 0.80%. Color: green Region: Catalonia Certified organic by CCPAE Bottle size: 250 ml, 500 ml (U.S.A.) and 3 liter tin Can Solivera, Camino de Peratallada a Fitor s/n, Apartado de Correos, 139, 17100 La Bisbal (Girona); Tel: 972 634 096; Email: info@solivera.com; Web: http://en.solivera.com; The shop is open Wednesday to Saturday 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.; guided tours are available by appointment. Can Solivera makes olive oil and soap from their own hand-harvested arbequina olives. The Wild (sauvage) oil is organic and made from trees gone-wild, some of which are over 350 years old.
15
16 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Cortijo de Suerte Alta Olive varieties: Picual, Hojiblanca and Picudo Acidity below 0.20%. Color: yellow and green-yellow Region: Andalucia Certified organic by CAAE DO: Baena Bottle size: 500 ml and 2L in the Picual Cortijo de Suerte Alta, Office: C/ Don Pedro, 8 2º1, 28005 Madrid; Tel: 917 584 762; Mill: Ctra Albendin-Martos s/n, Albendin 14859 (Cordoba); Web: www.suertealta.es Cortijo de Suerte Alta produces 2 olive oils that are family estate-bottled—Coupage Natural and Picual. The Coupage (blended) is made from all 3 varieties grown on 100 year old trees. The monvariety Picual oil is made from younger trees.
Campomar Nature Olive varieties: Carrasqueña, Morisca, and Arbequina Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: golden-yellow Region: Andalucia Certified organic by CAAE, USDA, & EU Bottle size: 500 ml, 750 ml, 1 L or 5 L Campomar Nature, S.L.; Ctra. Puente Genil s/n Pol. Ind. El Bujeo, 41567 Herrera (Sevilla); Tel: 965 106 626; Web: www.campomarnature.com Campomar Nature produces a number of products including its extra virgin olive oil.
Chapter 3 – The Oils
Cuarcos de Otto Olive varieties: Arbequina, Empeltre Acidity: 0.20% Color: yellow-green Region: Aragon Certified organic by CAACV Bottle size: 250 ml, 500 ml Hacienda Agrícola Ecostean, Plaza Portal, 11, 22312 Costean; Tel: 974 308 495; Email: info@ecostean.com; Web: www.ecostean.com/ eng/index.html Ecostean is northwest of Barcelona in the Sierra de Guara Natural Park, almost due north of Lleida. Ecostean makes a variety of organic olive oils, as well as an organic tempranillo-Merlot wine. Ecostean also produces Casa Benito Olive oil, Don Juan Manuel limited production from 174 verdeña olive trees that are over 100 years old.
Deguste Organic Olive Oil Olive varieties: Cornezuelo, Picual Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: green Region: Extremadura Certified by EU & CRAEX Bottle size: 250 ml, 500 ml, 750 ml, 5 L PET Deguste, San Francisco, 10 20º planta, 06800 Merida (Extremadura); Tel: 924 304 510; Web: www.deguste.es Deguste is a large food company offering products from the Extremadura region. They produce seven olive oils, one of which is organic.
17
18 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Deortegas Olive varieties: Arbequina, Cornicabra, Picual, Hojiblanca Acidity: 0.10 to 0.15% Color: green with gold tones Region: Murcia Certified organic by CAE Murcia Bottle size: 250 ml, 500 ml Almazara (Mill) Deortegas, Cntra. de Pinoso, Camino de Ardal, Km 5 Paraje “Los Pinillos” 30510, Yecla (Murcia); Tel: 639 360 714 or Tel: 607 291 924; Email: info@deortegas.com; Web: www.deortegas.com Deortegas is a family business dedicated to organic farming. The olive trees are grown between 2000 and 2500 feet above sea level and the olives are pressed within less than 24 hours of harvest. Deortegas takes exceptional care in maintaining low-temperature processing.
Ecoato Olive varieties: Arbequina Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: yellow Region: Murcia Certified organic by CAE Murcia, E.U., USDA Bottle size: 500 ml Ecoato, Cooperativa Coato, Ctra. de Mazarron, s/n, 30850 Totana (Murcia); Tel: 968 424 621; Email: coato@coato.com; Web:www.coato.com/ ingles/aceite.asp COATO is an agricultural cooperative company founded in 1979 owned by 4,000 growers with fifty thousand acres of land, close to 30,000 of which are organic. The land is mostly in sunsoaked Murcia with additional acreage in Albacete and Alicante.
Chapter 3 – The Oils
Ecolive Rioja Olive varieties: 100% Arbequina Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: green Region: La Rioja Certified organic by CPAE-RI, EU D.O. La Rioja Bottle size: 250 ml, 500 ml, 2.5 L & 5 L Ecolive Rioja, Crta. Grávalos, Km 2, 26540 Álfaro (La Rioja); Tel: 620 907 129; Email: ecolive@ecoliverioja.com; Web: www.ecoliverioja.com Ecolive Rioja is a family business certified organic since 2001 producing organic olive oil from the La Rioja region.
Eco Vizcántar Olive varieties: Picudo, Hojiblanco, Picual, Carrasqueño, Pajarero, Manzanillo, Cornachuelo, Lechin Acidity: less than 0.50% Color: green Region: Andalucia Certified organic by CAAE D.O. Priego de Cordoba Bottle size: 250 ml, 500 ml, 750 ml, 3L Eco Vizcántar, Ctra. de Zagrilla, s/n, 14800 Priego de Córdoba (Córdoba); Tel: 957 540 266; Email: vizcantar@aceitesvizcantar.com; Web: www.aceitesvizcantar.com Eco Vizcántar olive oil comes from Andalucía between Granada and Córdoba.
19
20 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Ecologia Sierra de Lijar Olive varieties: Lechin, Manzanilla Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: green Region: Andalucia Certified organic by CAAE Bottle size: 500 ml Ecologia Sierra de Lijar S. Coop, C/Magdalena, 82 11659 Puerto Serrano (Cadiz); Tel: 956 922 392; Web: www.ecolijar.com The olives used—mostly Lechín and Manzanilla varieties—are native to the region and come from olive trees that are hundreds of years old—some even as old as one thousand years. The production is limited due to low yields from such old and wise trees as well as difficult harvesting because of the mountainous terrain which means no motorized vehicles but rather humans on foot accompanied by donkeys or mules. The harvest is small, but the olives are of exceptional quality.
El Lagar del Soto Olive varieties: Manzanilla Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: green Region: Extremadura Certified organic by CRAEX Bottle size: 500 ml El Lagar del Soto, Jacoliva, Av. de la Paz 3, Pozuelo de Zarzon 10813 (Caceres); Tel: 927 448 011 The Damian-Corchero family has been producing olive oil since 1868.
Chapter 3 – The Oils
Envero Olive varieties: Arbequina Acidity: 0.10 to 0.20% Color: green with golden tones Region: Catalonia Certified organic by CCPAE Bottle size: 250 ml, 500 ml Envero Aceites, Av. Luís Vives 9b 6, 46460 Silla (Valencia); Tel: 961 216 753; Web: www.envero.es Envero makes three oils, one of which is organic. The olive groves are in Lleida in Catalonia.
Fruit Nature Olive Oil Olive varieties: Arbequina, Empeltre Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: green Region: Catalonia Certified organic by CCPAE Bottle size: 500 ml, 750 ml Fruit Nature Olive Oil, Joseph Manel Ambrós Ortiz, C/ Sant Antoni, 8, 43790 Riba-Roja d’Ebre (Tarragona); Tel: 977 416 078; Email: info@fruitnature.com; Web: www.fruitnature.com Fruit Nature Olive Oil is from the Ebro River area in Tarragona.
21
22 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Isul and Graccurris Olive varieties: Arbequina Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: green-gold Region: La Rioja Certified organic by USDA, EU D.O. La Rioja Bottle size: 500 ml Almazara Ecológica de La Rioja, S.L., C/ Muro Alto, 9, 26540 Alfaro (La Rioja); Tel: 941 181 512 / 600 871 792; Email: almazara@fer.es; Web: www.isul.es Isul and Graccurris extra virgin organic and unfiltered olive oils are produced in the La Rioja region. Visitors by appointment.
LA Organic Olive varieties: Picudo (Gold), Picual, Hojiblanca y Marteño (Cuisine), Picual, Hojiblanca, Arbequina (Original) Acidity: less than 0.80% Region: Andalucia Color: green Certified organic by CAAE & EU Bottle size: LA Gold 125, 250 ml bottles LA Original 250 ml, 500 ml, 3 L tins (U.S.A.) LA Cuisine 250 ml, 750 ml, 2 L, 5 L LA Organic, La Amarilla de Ronda, Calle Velazquez 53, 28001 Madrid; Web: www.laorganic.net LA Organic makes 2 varieties of oil—intenso (intense) and suave (smooth)—in 3 oil types, Original, Gold and Cuisine.
Chapter 3 – The Oils
23
L’Estornell Olive varieties: 100% Arbequina Acidity: 0.20 – 0.30% Color: green Region: Catalonia Certified organic by CCPAE D.O. Garrigues Bottle size: 375 ml, 750 ml (U.S.A.) Vea, Plaça Escoles s/n, 25175 Sarroca de Lleida; Tel: 973 126 000; Web: www.vea.es The 100% Arbequina olives in L’Estornell oil are grown by twelve farmers outside of the town of Sarocca de Lerida which lies over one hundred miles due west of Barcelona in the northeast Catalonia (Catalunya in Catalan) region of Spain. The Vea family estate named this particular oil (they produce others) L’Estornell which is a Catalan word for an olive-loving bird. L’Estornell oil is produced in a process where the olives are “hammered” rather than pressed or spun and then the oil drips so they need over twelve pounds of olives to make one pound of oil.
Soler Romero Olive varieties: Picual Acidity: 0.10% Color: green Region: Andalucia Certified organic by CAAE, USDA, EU Bottle size: 250, 500 ml and 500 ml & 3L tins (U.S.A.) Soler Romero, Alcaudete, Jaen; Tel: 914 355 814; Email: export@soler-romero.com; Web: www.soler-romero.com Soler Romero is one of the largest producers of organic olive oil in Spain, making over 350 tons a year. Family-run since 1850, the mill is located on the 1500-acre estate which allows the olives to be processed within two hours of harvest producing an oil very low in acidity. Every stage of the process is controlled, including the production of their own compost.
24 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Luque Olive varieties: Picudo, Pajarero, Picual Acidity: less than 0.40% Color: green-yellowish Region: Andalucia Certified organic by CAAE Bottle size: 250 ml, 500 ml, 1, 3, & 5 L Alcubilla 2000, Ctra. N-432, Km 315.8, 14840 Castro del Rio (Córdoba); Tel: 957 374 005; Email: luque@alcubilla2000.com; Web: www.alcubilla2000.com Alcubilla produces Luque organic olive oil in Castro del Río, between Córdoba and Granada from trees that are hundreds of years old. You can visit their olive oil museum with old mill equipment and a restaurant serving traditional dishes & offering olive oil tastings (www.oleocultura.com—for information in English click on “Descargar Catalogo” for a PDF with Spanish and English).
Merula Olive Oil Olive varieties: Arbequina, Hojiblanca, Picual, Morisca Acidity: less than 0.19% Color: golden-yellow Region: Extremadura Not certified, but the oil is tested to insure it is free from pesticides. Bottle size: 500 ml tin (U.S.A.) Merula, Web: www.merula.es Merula is made on the five-hundred acre Perales Family estate in the dry Extremadura region of western Spain. Merula means blackbird in Spanish hence the logo. The Perales estate is in the area around the city of Merida, which is said to have the most abundant and best preserved Roman ruins in all of Spain. The Merula olives are handpicked, rather than machine harvested to minimize bruising. The mill is on the estate so processing can be done immediately after harvest.
Chapter 3 – The Oils
Milenario Olive varieties: Farga (Forge) Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: green Region: Valencia Not certified organic but produced from 1,000 year old trees with no pesticide use Bottle size: 500 ml (U.S.A.) Clot d’en Simo, Intercoop, c/Dels Ibers 24, 12550 Almassora (Castellon) Milenario oil is a very limited production oil from 1,000 year old monument trees in the Castellon province of the Valencia region. The trunks of these old trees measure between 20 and 50 feet around. See page 5 for more information about the monument trees. Available at Super Gourmet at the Mercado Central in Valencia city.
Mozaira Olive varieties: Serrana, Villalonga Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: green Region: Valencia Certified organic by CAECV Bottle size: 500 ml, 750 ml, 1, 2, 5 L Mozaira por La Almazara, Hnos Martinez Zaballos, El Tinte 1, 46176 Chelva (Valencia); Tel: 962 100 225; Web: www.mozaira.com The Martinez Zaballos family produces two brands of olive oil, one of which is the organic Mozaira. The family has produced olive oil for over 200 years. The olives are pressed the same day they are harvested.
25
26 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Nuñez de Prado Olive varieties: Hojiblanca, Picual, Picudo Acidity: 0.09% to 0.17% Color: green Region: Andalucia Certified organic by CAAE D.O. Baena Bottle size: 500 ml (Flor de Aceite), 1 L tin (regular) (U.S.A.) Núñez de Prado, Avenida de Cervantes, 15; 14850 Baena (Andalucia); Tel: 957 670 141; Email: nunezdeprado@hotmail.com; Web: www.nunezdeprado.com; Open Weekdays 9am to 2pm, 4pm to 6:30pm, Saturday 9am to 1pm; Visitors welcome. The olive oil has been produced since 1795 (!) in the town of Baena in the Andalucia region. At Nuñez de Prado the olives are handpicked and pressed the same day as harvest. Two varieties of oil are produced—Regular and Flor de Aceite. Regular Nunez de Prado extra virgin olive oil is extracted with the use of hydraulic presses. The other, Flor de Aceite (Flower of the Oil), uses a special technique for extraction where the oil drips from the pomace slowly rather than being pressed or extracted by centrifuge. This process requires many more olives to produce the oil. Where the traditional process would use almost six pounds of olives to make just over one pound of oil, the Nuñez de Prado Flor de Aceite process needs twice as many olives—over twelve pounds of olives to make one pound of oil.
Chapter 3 – The Oils
Olivar de la Luna Olive varieties: Nevadillo Blanco, with smaller percentages of Lechín, Picudo and Manzanillo Acidity: less than 0.20% Color: green Region: Andalucia Certified organic by CAAE, E.U., USDA Bottle size: 500 ml, 1 L tin, 5 L tin (U.S.A.) Olivar de la Luna, C/ San Juan Bosco, 23 2º, 14400 Pozoblanco; Tel: 957 771 208; Web: www.olivardelaluna.es Olivar de la Luna is made by a family company, Santa Casilda, in the mountains near a small town north of Cordoba city. The oil is made exclusively from the family’s own olives and Biodynamic certification is pending. The olives are processed immediately after harvest in a mill (almazara) on their farm. The labels are printed in Braille, as well as Spanish.
Oleum Viride Olive varieties: Lechin, Manzanilla de Zahara Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: green-yellow Region: Andalucia Certified organic by CAAE Bottle size: 500 ml, 2 L Oleum Viride, C/ Alta, 10, Zahara de la Sierra (Cádiz); Tel: 956 139 006; Email: info@oleumviride.com; Web: www.oleum viride.com The olives in Oleum Viride come from the mountains in the Cádiz area in southwest Spain. Oleum Viride produces monovariety Manzanilla de Zahara, a blended oil with both Lechin and Manzanilla de Zahara, and a monovariety using only Lechin.
27
28 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Olivalle Olive varieties: Nevado Blanco, smaller amounts of Lechin, Nevado Negro, Picudo Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: green Region: Andalucia Certified organic by CAAE, EU, USDA Bottle size: 250 ml, 500 ml, 750 ml, 1, 3 & 5 L OLIVALLE, Olivarera Los Pedroches, Ctra. Circunvalación s/n, 14400 Pozoblanco (Córdoba); Tel: 957 770 529; Email: adminolipe@olipe.com; Web: www.olipe.com/site/ This olive coop founded in 1957 has over 700 members, 500 of whom practice organic agriculture. Twenty-five percent of the coop’s electricity is provided by solar power.
Olivar de Segura Olive varieties: Picual Acidity: 0.20% Color: green-yellow Region: Andalucia Certified organic by CAAE Bottle size: 500 ml, 750 ml bottle Olivar de Segura, Sierra de Genave Andalusian Cooperative, Ctra. Córdoba—Valencia, s/n, 23350 Puente de Génave (Jaén); Tel: 953 435 400; Email: pedidos@olivardesegura.es; Web: www.sierradegenave.com Sierra de Geneve is an olive cooperative with an organic and award-winning olive oil called Oro de Génave Bio.
Chapter 3 – The Oils
Olicatessen Olive varieties: 90% arbequina, 5% arbreblanc, 5% verdial Acidity: 0.20% Color: yellow with green notes Region: Catalonia Certified organic by E.U., USDA and CCPAE Bottle size: 250 ml, 375 ml, 500 ml, 3 L Olicatessen, Mestre Benet, 19, 25164 Els Torms (Lleida); Tel: 973 128 362; Web: www.olicatessen.com The area of Lleida is known for its olive growing tradition that dates back to Roman times.
Oro del Desierto Olive varieties: Arbequina, Hojiblanca, Lechin, Picual Acidity: 0.10% Color: green with gold tones Region: Andalucia Certified organic by CAAE Bottle size: 250 ml, 500 ml, 1 & 5 L Oro del Desierto, Ctra. Nacional 340, Km. 474. 04200 Tabernas (AlmerĂa); Tel: 950 611 707; Email: orodeldesierto@orodeldesierto.com; Web: www.orodeldesierto.com All the olives for the oil come from the 25,000 olive trees on the family farm. At the restored old 1925 mill there is an olive oil museum and a restaurant. The company is 100% powered by solar photovoltaic electricity. Oro del Desierto produces 4 monovariety olive oils plus 1 blended coupage oil.
29
30 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Rincón del Segura Olive varieties: Manzanilla Acidity: less than 0.80% Color: green Region: Castilla-La Mancha Certified organic by E.U. Bottle size: 750 ml, 5 L Panadería Rincón del Segura, Camino Viejo de Férez, s/n (Villares), 02439 Elche de la Sierra (Albacete); Tel: 967 410 462; Email: rincondelsegura@artesaniadelasierra.com; Web: www.artesaniadelasierra.com/rincondelsegura Rincon del Segura sells organic grains, breads, and olive oil, all certified organic.
Romanico Olive varieties: Arbequina Acidity less than 0.80% Color: green Region: Catalonia Certified organic by CCPAE Bottle size: 500 ml, 5 L Romanico, Agroles, Verge de Montserrat 29, 25400 Les Borges Blanques, Les Garrigues (Lleida); Tel: 973 142 150; Web: www.agroles.com Agroles produces organic products—vinegar, fruits, nuts, olives and olive oil—in Catalonia.
Chapter 3 – The Oils
Tio Fulgencio Olive varieties: La Serrana Espadán Acidity: less than 0.30% Color: yellow Region: Valencia Certified organic by CAECV D.O. Comunidad Valenciana Bottle size: 100 and 250 ml, 750 ml, 2 L Tío Fulgencio, Ramón y Cajal 10, PB dcha., 12470 Navajas (Castellón); Tel: 963 443 547; Email: info@tiofulgencio.es; Web: www.tiofulgencio.es Tío Fulgencio olives are harvested from one hundred year old olive trees. The olive groves are in Castellon province, between the Natural Parks of Espadan and Calderona mountain ranges.
Verdial Lacara Olive varieties: Verdial of Badajoz Acidity: less 0.50% Color: yellow to green Region: Extremadura Certified organic by CRAEX Bottle size: 500 ml, 1 & 5 L El Lacara, Paseo del Lacara 22, 06487 Cordobilla de Lácara (Badajoz); Tel: 924 320 124; Web: www.aceiteslacara.com El Lacara is an organic agriculture coop with over 3000 acres.
31
32 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
ORGANIC CERTIFICATION In Spain, organic agriculture is called agricultura ecologica or biologica, or eco or bio for short. Food grown organically is certified as bio by one of Spain’s organic certification organizations, most of which are regional organizations. Andalucia Region—Asociacion Comite Andaluz de Agricultura Ecologica (CAAE); Web: www.caae.es Aragon Region—Comite Aragones de Agricultura Ecologica (CAACV); Web: www.caecv.com Asturias Region—Consejo de la Produccion Agraria Ecologica del Principado de Asturias (COPAE); Web: www.copaeastur.org Balearic Islands—Consell Balear de la Produccio Agraria Ecologica (CBPAE); Web: www.cbpae.org Canary Islands—(CRAE); Web: www.gobiernodecanarias.org/agricultura Castilla and Leon Region—Consejo de Agricultura Ecologica de Castilla y Leon (CAECyL); Web: www.caecyl.es Catalonia/Catalunya Region—Consell Catala de la Produccio Agraria Ecologica (CCPAE); Web: www.ccpae.org Euskadi/Basque Region—Consejo de Agricultura y Alimentación Ecológica de Euskadi (CAAEE-ENEEK); Web: www.eneek.org Extremadura Region—Consejo Regulador Agroalimentario Ecológico de Extremadura (CRAEX); currently no Web site Galicia Region—Consello Regulador de Agricultura Ecoloxica de Galicia (CRAEGA); Web: www.craega.es La Rioja—Consejo de la Produccion Agraria Ecologica de La Rioja (CPAE-RI); Web site through La Asociación Riojana Profesional de Agricultura Ecológica (A.R.P.A.-ECO); Web: www.ecorioja.com Murcia Region—Comite Agricultura Ecologica Region de Murcia (CAE Murcia); Web: www.caermurcia.com Navarra Region—Consejo de la Produccion Agraria Ecologica de Navarra (CPAEN); Web: www.cpaen.org Valencia Region—Comite D’Agricultura Ecologica de la Comunitat Valenciana (CAECV); Web: www.cae-cv.com Sohiscert-Ecocert Spain—private certifier (www.sohiscert.com) Some organic Spanish olive oils are certified by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) and the European Union (EU) certifying agencies
Chapter 3 – The Oils
33
DENOMINATIONS OF ORIGIN Aceite Campo de Montiel, covereing the Province of Cuidad Real. Oil from Arbequina, Corniblanca, Manzanilla, Picual and local varieties; Web: www.doaceitecampodemontiel.es Aceite de La Alcarria, covering Guadalajara and Cuenca. Oil from local varieties; Web: www.aceitedelaalcarria.es Aceite de la Comunitat Valenciana, covering the Valencia region. Oil from Alfafara, Arbequina, Blanqueta, Borriolenca, Callosina, Canetera, Changlot Real, Cornicabra, Cuquillo, Empeltre, Farga, Grosal, Llumeta, Manzanilla Villalonga, Millarenca, Morruda, Nana, Rojal, Serrana de Espadán, Sollana Aceite de La Rioja, covering the whole region of La Rioja. Oil from Arbequina, Arroniz, Blanqueta, Cornicabra, Empeltre, Hojiblanca, Machona, Manzanilla, Negral, Picual, Redondilla, Royal, and Verdial. Aceite de Madrid, covering the Community of Madrid comprising 97 towns. Oil from at least 40% Corniblanca olives and either Carrasqueño, Gordal Sevillana, Manzanilla Cacereña, Picual, Verdeja. Aceite de Mallorca, covering the island of Mallorca. Oil from Arbequina, Empeltre, Mallorquina, and Picual. Aceite de Monterrubio, covers eastern Extremadura. Oil from Cornezuelo and Picual (called Jabata locally). Other olives used include Corniche, Cornicabra, Mollar, Morilla, and Picolimon. Aceite de Navarra, covers the region of Navara especially the southern area. Oil from at least 90% of Arbequina, Arroniz, or Empeltre, and up to 10% of other olives; Web: www.aceitenavarra.es Aceite de Terra Alta, covering areas around Tarragona. Oil from Empeltre, as well as Arbequina, Farga and Morruda. Aceite del Baix Ebre-Montsia, also covering Tarragona province but in the lower Ebro River area. Oil from Farga, Morruda, Morrut and Sevillenca. Aceite del Bajo Aragon, covering the southeastern Ebro River area. Oil from at least 80% Empeltre, with up to 20% Arbequina and Royal. Aceite del Emporda, covering the Girona and Emporda areas in the region of Catalonia. Oil from at least 80% of either Arbequina, Argudell, Corivell or Verdial. The remaining 20% can be other olive varieties. Aceite Montes de Alcaraz, covering the region of Castilla-La Mancha bordering Andalucia. Oil mostly from Picual, as well as Cornicabra, with small amounts from Arbequina, Manzanilla and Picudo. Antequera, covering the Antequera basin in Malaga and Cordoba. Oil from mostly Hojiblanca, also Arbequina, Gordal de Archidona, Lechin de Sevilla, Marteño, Picual, Picudo, Verdial de Huevar, Verdial de Velez-Malaga, and Zorzaleño; Web: www.doantequera.org Baena, covering Baena in the southeastern area of the Cordoba province. Oil from Chorruo or Jarduo, Hojiblanca,
Lechin, Picual and Picudo or Carrasqueño de Cordoba; Web: www.dobaena.com Campiñas de Jaen, covering Jaen province. Oil from Arbequina and Picual; Web: www.campinasdejaen.es Campo de Calatrava, covering southeastern Castilla-La Mancha. Oil from Corniblanca and Picual. Estepa, covering Estepa in the province of Sevilla in Andalucia. Oil from mostly Hojiblanca, with additions of Arbequina, Lechin, Manzanilla and Picual. Garrigues, covering south of the city of Lleida in the Catalonia region. Oil from Arbequina and Verdial; Web: www.olidoplesgarrigues.com Gata-Hurdes, covering the northern Extremadura region. Oil from Manzanilla Cacereña; Web: www.gata-hurdes.com Lucena, covering ten towns south of Cordoba. Oil from 90% Hojiblanca and Lucentina, with secondary varieties of Arbequina, Campanil, Chorruo, Lechin, Ocal, Picual and Tempranilla. Montes de Granada, covering the mountainous region in the northern part of Granada province. Oil from Loaime, Lucio and Picual. Secondary varieties of Escarabajuelo, Gordal de Granada, Hojiblanca and Negrillo de Iznalloz; Web: www.domontesdegranada.com Montes de Toledo, covering central Castilla-La Mancha southwest of Toledo. Oil from Cornicabra olives; Web: www.domontesdetoledo.com Montoro-Adamuz, covering part of Cordoba city and north. Oil from Carrasqueño, Lechin, Marteño, Nevadillo Blanco (Picual), Nevadillo Negro and Picudo. Poniente de Granada, covering west of Granada. Oil from Hojiblanca, Loaime, Lucio, Nevadillo de Alhama de Granada, Picual and Picudo; Web: www.doponientedegranada.com Priego de Cordoba, covering southwest Cordoba province. Oil from Hojiblanca, Picual and Picudo; Web: www.priegode cordoba.org Sierra de Cadiz, covering northeastern Cadiz. Oil from Almeña de Montilla, Arbequina, Hojiblanca, Lechin de Sevilla, Manzanilla, Picual, Verdial de Cadiz, and Verdial de Huevar. Sierra de Cazorla, covering southeast Jaen province. Oil from Picual and native Royal varieties; Web: www.desierracazorla.es Sierra Magina, covering central Jaen province. Oil from Manzanilla de Jaen and Picual; Web: www.sierramagina.org Sierra de Segura, covering northeast Jaen province. Oil from Manzanilla de Jaen, Picual, Royal and Verdial; Web: www.dosierradesegura.com Siurana, covering part of Tarragona province in Catalonia. Oil from Arbequina, Morrut and Royal; Web: www.siurana.info
Recipes
35
Recipes with Olive Oil A SUMMER SALAD FROM SPAIN
Being from New England I am especially appreciative of long growing seasons since ours feels like about one week long. Spain’s growing season is virtually never-ending with something to harvest any time of year. There is orange season, strawberry season, cherry season, and of course pretty much all year is salad green season. Living in Spain I grew fond of sardines. Sardines are a great fish choice in general and easy for salads. They are high in healthy omega-3 fats and, being small and low on the food chain, they do not contain the large amounts of mercury found in tuna—a common salad protein ingredient. Here is a delicious, easy and inexpensive salad made with all fresh and local ingredients which you can even make in New England although the olives and sardines will obviously and unfortunately not be local. Spanish Sardine* Salad Pepiños (cucumbers) chopped Pimentos rojas (red peppers) chopped Mezclum (Mesclun) salad mix Mache (cornsalad/Valerianella locusta) Rucula (arugula) Olives sliced Sardines* — 1 tin —Sardines from the Galicia region of Spain are the best, packed in olive oil—mash up with a fork Generous drizzling of Olive Oil (Choose one of the organic olives oils in this Guide) Drizzling of Balsamic Vinegar and....EAT! You can serve the salad with a side of olive-rosemary bread drizzled with olive oil, or a little grated Manchego sheep cheese. * If you are a vegetarian, substitute the sardines with raw, soaked and slightly sprouted lentils, nuts or seeds (this takes advanced planning—start soaking 4 to 18 hours before eating). If you eat cheese, crumble in delicious sheep or goat feta.
36 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Recipes
37
GLUTEN-FREE PIZZA WITH SHEEP CHEESE AND PESTO A word about my cooking style. As you can see from my recipes I am an “approximate” cook, not a meticulous baker. In our home, my husband, a fine carpenter and house builder, is the baker, extending his precision to eclairs, cakes and other recipes requiring exacting measurements. I, on the other hand, fall into the “a pinch here, a handful there” category, able to improvise with what I have pretty easily. For creations I particularly like I make mental notes of quantities and special ingredients. Here is a pizza favorite, made with some local Spanish delicacies, easily changed and adapted to personal preferences in terms of cheeses and toppings.
Ingredients per pizza Gluten-Free Crust – 1 8-10" crust Olive Oil (Choose one of the organic olives oils in this Guide) – 1 Tablespoon Pesto – 1-2 Tablespoons Green and Red Peppers – 1/4 each Olives - handful Sun-dried Tomatoes – 1-2 slices chopped Bake the crust with nothing on it for a couple of minutes. Then rub a little olive oil on the crust—not much—about 1 tablespoon—rubbing it to all parts of the crust with your fingers. Next spread a similar amount of pesto (see below) on the crust. If you are traveling without access to a food processor or great chopping facilities, I would opt for pre-made pesto sold at the markets or in jars in stores. Thinly slice or grate the cheese. Sheep (Oveja) cheese is quite prevalent in Spain. If you are using it for taste—any will do. If you have allergies to cow milk, then make sure you read the label or ask at the market counter to make sure it is queso puro de oveja sin leche de vaca (pure sheep cheese without cow milk). My favorite cheese for this pizza is made from smooth raw sheep milk, Queso Extramuros, crafted by artisans in the Natural Park of Sierra de Espadán, in Castellon north of Valencia. Los Corrales makes a variety of cheeses from goat and sheep milk, curing the rind with olive oil so it is edible.You can find this special cheese at the organic food stall, La Morhada, at Valencia's Mercado Central. This cheese melts very quickly so the trick is to watch the pizza as it will easily get overcooked— just a few minutes in the oven. Once it is gently melted, remove the pizza from the
38 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
oven. Add chopped green (and red) peppers, organic olives, chopped sundried tomatoes, and I love a big handful of fresh arugula (rucula) over the top as the finishing touch. Serve with a mixed green salad and Limonada con Menta (see recipe on page 41). All I can say is “yum!” The Crust* In Spain gluten-free (sin-gluten) products are fairly abundant and easy to find in large supermarkets and health food stores as well as small herboristerias. The easiest to use are the pre-made crusts, but if you are feeling creative you can make a crust from scratch—all you need is the flour mix, water and oil (I do not use yeast in mine). If you are traveling it is simplest really to buy the premade crust, or alternatively buy a gluten-free flour mix—otherwise you end up with multiple bags of different kinds of flours (rice, tapioca, potato starch, or others depending upon your personal preferences). The pre-made crusts are small, one to two person portion size. Depending where you find yourself in Spain brand names of gluten-free pre-made crusts will include Proceli, Schar, Sense Gluten, and Artediet. If you are in the U.S., there are any number of ready-made gluten-free crusts available, as well as mixes. * For a “live” crust soak sunflower seeds and walnuts for 2 to 12 hours prior to making, combine these with grated zucchini, ground flax seeds and water, and then dehydrate for 12 to 18 hours. There are some ready-made “live” or “raw” garlic bread slices available that would work for a more spontaneous “live” pizza creation. Homemade Pesto** (if you have access to a food processor or great chopping and mixing facilities): Basil (albahaca in Spanish) – A pile of fresh basil leaves—closer to a small mountain as far as I am concerned. Basil ranks up there with olive oil in my book—the more the better. Nuts/Sunflower Seeds – Pine Nuts (piñones) are traditional. I use those or sunflower seeds (semillas de girasol) due to allergies to other nuts, but you can certainly use walnuts (nueces) or almonds (almendras) if you like. About 1/2 cup for every 2–3 large handfuls of basil. Lemon (limon) Juice – just 1–2 tablespoons Garlic (ajo) – 1–3 cloves – based on your personal preference Olive Oil (aceite de oliva) – to make a pasty to runny consistency Cheese (queso) – Parmesan is traditional, but you can use whatever you like— I tend to not add the cheese if I am using it on pizzas or other dishes that will contain cheese.
Recipes
39
Put the nuts/seeds in a food processor and grind, then add the garlic, lemon juice, and as much basil as will fit in the bowl with about 1/4 cup of olive oil. Blend and then keep adding olive oil while the food processor is on until the desired consistency is reached. If you are adding cheese, do that last. **For a “live� version soak the pine nuts, sunflower seeds or walnuts for 2 to 12 hours prior to making. Drizzling Olive Oil Olive oil can be drizzled on just about anything—salads of all sorts, stir-fry dishes, pastas, bread, potatoes, poultry and fish, and much more. I have even heard of people pouring it on ice cream, although I confess to never having tried that (nor olive oil flavored ice cream). I highly recommend an interchangeable pouring spout for the bottle that houses your olive oil as this makes for easy drizzling.
About Rancidity I truly appreciate all extra virgin, cold-pressed olive oils, and especially organic oils (although I have sampled some excellent non-organic oils as well) but I have had some that due to no fault of their own, but rather I think the distributors, taste slightly rancid to me. I confess to being hyper-sensitive to this. A rancid oil, no matter how slight, is a complete turn-off and if you find yourself tasting an oil like that just spit it out. I am happy to report that none of the oils contained in this Guide ever tasted rancid or off to me.
40 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Recipes
41
Limonada con Menta (Mint Lemonade) There is no olive oil in this recipe, but the lemonade tastes delicious served with many olive oil dishes including the pizza recipe on page 37. I made this recipe frequently when I lived in sunny, warm and lovely Valencia, Spain where the smell of orange blossoms lingers in the air—a perfume that has yet to be captured as perfectly as nature makes it. There is always a bounty at the Mercado Central (Central Market) that allows for divine treats made with ingredients grown locally (if you happen to be in Spain). If not, you can make this lemonade wherever you are.
Ingredients: (Local) Lemons – 5 Raw Honey from Orange Flower Blossoms (Miel Cruda de Azahar) – 3-4 Tablespoons Fresh Mint – 1-2 Handfuls Good Water – 1-2 Liters/Quarts Fresh squeeze 5 lemons from the market, or if you are lucky enough to have a friend with lemon trees in their yard, which many do in Spain, 5 from the yard tree. Mix 3-4 Tablespoons of honey into the lemon juice concentrate (more or less to taste depending upon how sweet or tangy you prefer your lemonade). The raw honey tends to be crystallized so I advise using a fork for stirring. While heating the honey is the usual way to easily combine it with a liquid, the heating somewhat defeats the purpose of using the raw honey rich with enzymes and other nutrients. Once the honey is dissolved into the lemon juice add the water, again to taste according to how concentrated or diluted you like your lemonade. Next cut or crush the fresh mint. Cover the bottom of a glass with some of the chopped mint and ice (if you like ice) and pour the lemonade. You can serve as is, or add a sprig of mint to the glass. Enjoy!
42 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Recipes
43
Winter Salad Deep winter in New England requires remembering green and sunshine. Here is a favorite winter salad of mine. Ingredients: Escarole-generous handful Kale – Lacinata or Curly-generous handful Rose-head Turnips – 1 small grated Apple – 1 grated, preferably not too sweet such as a Macintosh or Macoun Carrots – 1-2 grated Avocado – 1/2 an avocado sliced and diced Sprouts – either sunflower, lentil or pea sprouts (requires extra planning and time prep) Pomegranate – the seeds from 1/2 a pomegranate Generous drizzling of organic olive oil Drizzling of balsamic vinegar Cut and grate ingredients into a salad bowl. Add the oil and vinegar and…enjoy! You can serve the salad with a side of bread or crackers (“live” or otherwise) drizzled with olive oil, or a little of your favorite grated or crumbled goat or sheep cheese.
Spanish Dessert Treat Oranges Raw Honey from Orange Flower Blossoms (Miel Cruda de Azahar) Extra Virgin Organic Olive Oil Peel and slice the oranges and place in a shallow bowl or plate For every orange add about one teaspoon of honey (or to taste) and one tablespoon of fresh olive oil
44 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
Tasting Notes and Tools 45
Tasting Notes and Tools Holding an olive oil tasting, whether for yourself or friends and family, can be educational and fun. Three to six olive oils is a good number for a tasting, providing variety while not being too overwhelming. My preference is blind tasting, like wine connoisseurs do, so no one is swayed by clever packaging or prior tasting experience. Tastings are best done using clear or white bowls for the olive oil samples. Label the bowls and corresponding bottles with either numbers or letters. Have fresh bread (baguettes are my favorite) ready to cut into small bite-size pieces. Apple slices are recommended to clear the palate between oils. Do not pour the olive oil or cut the bread until right before the tasting to avoid stale bread and any blight on the olive oil flavor. Olive oil characteristics and flavors are often described in a similar way as wines, such as grassy, floral, fruity, woody, peppery. You can make note of these in the comments section of the tasting form (see page 44). You can also note on the form the intensity or scale of the aroma, flavor, bitterness (some oils are quite bitter), and pungency (degree of flavor, strength and sharpness). The style—mild, medium or robust—is similar to the pungency rating. I use the quality column as merely a numeric numbering for my preferences with 1 being my favorite(s). Remember to label the bottles and bowls or else you will get confused about which olive oils you like the best. I made the mistake once of placing the bowls in a certain order and not labeling them, not foreseeing the inevitable—someone moved the bowls around and we ended up with no idea which oils we preferred. Storage Store olive oil in a cool, dark spot especially if the oil is in clear bottles. If the oil is in a large container, it is best to decant about 8 oz (around 250 ml) at a time to keep it fresh. Decant into a bottle with a pouring spout for easy use. Cap the larger container tightly and store appropriately.
46 Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain
More Information About Traveling Naturally We welcome your comments, suggestions, and insights. Please visit the Traveling Naturally Web site and blog for Traveling Naturally updates, as well as news about other Green Earth Guides including those for France, Spain, Switzerland, Italy, Ireland, Britain, the United States and other countries. Web: www.travelingnaturally.com Blog: http://travelingnaturally.blogspot.com Twitter: http://twitter.com/travelingreen Facebook: Green Earth Guides Ecological Wine Guide: http://ecologicalwineguide.blogspot.com Cards and prints: www.cafepress.com/travelnaturally If you use an electronic device that supports Apps (like Apple’s iPhone®, iPod Touch®, and iPad™, or other smart phones) you can make use of Traveling Naturally’s upcoming green travel Apps.
Green Earth Guides are available at local and online booksellers
about the author Dorian Yates is the photographer and author of the award-winning Green Earth Guide series including the Green Earth Guide: Traveling Naturally in France, Green Earth Guide: Traveling Naturally in Spain, and Green Earth Guide: Traveling Naturally in Switzerland. She is an expert on green-living and ecotravel in Europe and the United States. Her Traveling Naturally blog has been selected as one of “Lonely Planet’s” favorite blogs. Dorian has worked for consumer advocacy organizations and as a consultant on environmental health, non-toxic products, indoor air quality, and organic farming issues. She brings her thirty years of green expertise to ecotravel. And if you haven’t already guessed, she LOVES olive oil.
47
Olive Oil: An Olive Oil Lover’s Guide to the Organic Oils of Spain is for any connoisseur or lover of olive oils. Passionate about olive oil, Dorian Yates, author of the award-winning Green Earth Guide series to traveling naturally and ecologically in Europe takes you on a tour of the abundant, fresh olive oils produced organically in Spain. Olive Oil includes historical and cultural information, growing and processing techniques, as well as full listings of over forty oils. Her mouth-watering guide to Spain’s organic olive oils makes you want to break out the dipping bread and start tasting.
Best Guidebooks Treehugger Best of Green Award Green Earth Guides Traveling Naturally in France Traveling Naturally in Spain Traveling Naturally in Switzerland Join Green Earth Guide fans
The Carbon Fund, Robert F. Kennedy, Jr., Van Jones, Helena Norberg-Hodge, Eco-Libris, Greenty “Filled with great information about where to find natural, organic foods and wines throughout France, Green Earth Guide is a must have for food lovers and supporters of organic agriculture.”
—NELL NEWMAN, President, Newman’s Own Organics “Traveling Naturally in Spain is indispensable for localvores and anyone who loves fresh, organic food, as well as for vegetarians and people with special diet needs.”
—EUGENIA BONE, author Well-Preserved and At Mesa’s Edge FOOD/SPAIN
Traveling Naturally and The Green Earth Guides www.travelingnaturally.com US $14.95 ISBN 978-1-45655-788-1